KiBH 


JESSICA  PEIXOTTO 


- 


ENCYCLOPEDIA 


PRACTICAL 


RECEIPTS  AND  PROCESSES. 


CONTAINING 


OVER  6400  RECEIPTS; 


EMBRACING 


THOROUGH  INFORMATION,  IN  PLAIN  LANGUAGE,  APPLICABLE  TO  ALMOST  EVERT 
POSSIBLE  INDUSTRIAL  AND  DOMESTIC  REQUIREMENT. 


BY 

WILLIAM    B.    DICK, 


NEW    YORK: 
DICK    &    FITZGERALD,     PUBLISHERS 


GIFT 
OBSERVE. 


When  searching  for  anything  contained  in  this  book,  always  refer  to  the  INDEX,  noting 
the  directions  given  on  page  565. 

The  Receipts  are  classified,  as  far  as  practicable,  under  the  headings  to  which  they 
belong ;  some  of  them,  however,  are  applicable  to  several  subjects,  but  are  inserted,  to  avoid 
repetition,  under  one  only.  Such  receipts,  consequently,  mighi  not  be  readily  found  by  con- 
sulting the  Table  of  Contents,  which  gives  the  subject  Headings  only. 

The  figures  in  the  Index  refer  to  the  number  of  the  Receipt,  not  the  page  number. 


Entered  according  in  Act  of  Conprega,'  iji  tte  year  1872,  by 

PJCK    &,  FITZGERAL.IX, 
In  the  Office  of  tbo  libianu  af  Coiigr^s/a't  ypqe&ington,  D  C. 


PREFACE. 


The  original  design  of  the  compiler  of  this  work  was  to  prepare  a  collection  of 
popular  and  domestic  receipts,  to  contain  only  those  whose  practical  utility  had 
been  established,  either  by  actual  trial  or  by  the  guaranty  of  undoubted  authori- 
ties, thus  excluding  the  mass  of  untried,  and,  consequently,  unreliable  information 
to  be  found  in  Receipt  Books,  compiled  with  a  view  to  quantity  rather  than 
quality.  As  the  work  progressed,  it  was  found,  in  many  cases,  no  easy  matter  to 
draw  a  line  between  the  simple  or  practical  and  the  artistic  or  scientific.  To  meet 
this  difficulty,  it  was  determined  to  enlarge  its  scope,  increasing  the  usefulness  of 
the  former  by  the  additional  light  of  scientific  research,  and  rendering  the  latter 
easy  of  application  by  reducing  the  formulae  and  technicalities  of  scientific  writers 
to  plain  language,  so  as  to  be  understood  by  the  uninitiated.  To  carry  out  this 
idea  intelligibly,  the  plan  has  been  adopted  of  classifying  the  various  subjects 
treated  of  in  the  Encyclopedia,  so  that  each  should  be  presented  in  a  compact 
form  of  completeness  unattainable  by  any  other  method ;  omitting  only,  in  order 
to  save  repetition,  such  information  as  could  be  found  in  connection  with  some 
other  subject  in  another  part  of  the  work,  but  easily  reached  by  the  introduction 
of  reference  numbers,  or  by  the  aid  of  the  Index. 

The  result  of  this  change  of  scheme  in  the  preparation  of  the  Encyclopedia  is 
twofold:  first,  an  amount  of  information  on  popular  and  household  matters 
rarely,  it  is  believed,  to  be  found  in  one  volume ;  secondly,  a  condensed  digest  of 
all  the  practical  information,  bearing  on  the  various  branches  of  the  industrial 
arts,  that  is  contained  in  the  best  scientific  works  of  modern  times,  many  of  which 
are  costly  and  technical  in  style,  and  some  of  them  rarely  to  be  found  in  this 
country. 

This  has  necessarily  involved  an  almost  incredible  amount  of  patient  and  per- 
sistent labor,  rendered  unavoidable  in  order  to  separate  and  extract  the  practical 
matter  from  theoretical  propositions  and  speculative  deductions,  of  great  value  to 
the  expert,  but  entirely  beyond  the  scope  of  a  popular  work ;  this  will  be  fully 
corroborated  by  the  annexed  list  of  authorities,  which  have  been  quoted  or  con- 
sulted in  the  preparation  of  the  Encyclopedia.  In  accomplishing  this  the  compiler 
has  been  assisted  by  a  gentleman  whose  knowledge  of  languages,  and  other  at- 
tainments, have  aided  him  materially  in  his  undertaking. 

The  various  processes  and  formulae  connected  with  the  Practical  Arts  form, 
therefore,  a  distinguishing  feature  of  the  work,  of  the  highest  utility  both  in  the 
laboratory  and  the  workshop.  They  are  further  explained,  where  it  has  been 
deemed  necessary,  with  neatly  executed  illustrations  and  diagrams,  thus  giving  the 


M1411G1 


iv  PREFACE. 

inexperienced  a  clear  insight  into  many  of  those  scientific  operations  usually  sup- 
posed to  be  attainable  only  by  persons  trained  and  educated  for  the  purpose. 

The  Receipts  containing  information  more  especially  applicable  to  domestic 
matters  and  the  requirements  of  every-day  life,  deserve  more  than  a  passing 
notice,  as  no  pains  have  been  spared  to  make  them  comprehensive,  thorough, 
and  clearly  understood ;  showing  not  only  what  must  be  done,  but  how  to  do 
it,  in  order  to  attain  any  desired  result;  giving  the  materials  used,  their  proper 
proportions,  and  how  to  prepare,  mix  and  apply  them;  introducing  also,  wher- 
ever advisable  or  necessary,  reliable  tests  for  the  purity,  strength,  etc.,  of  the 
substances  brought  into  requisition.  This  principle  of  testing  is  a  noticeable 
feature  throughout  the  Encyclopedia. 

In  the  Medical  department,  each  recipe  or  formula  is  adopted  for  its  efficacy 
only,  without  reference  to  any  particular  School  of  Medicine.  Some  of  them 
are  published  for  the  first  time  in  this  work,  being  obtained  from  the  private 
memoranda  of  a  distinguished  physician,  and  other  similar  sources. 

With  the  exception  of  general,  but  thorough,  directions  for  Curing,  Preserving, 
Pickling  and  Canning,  Culinary  receipts  have  been  avoided,  as  they  may  be  found 
in  any  reliable  Cookery  Book ;  the  design  of  this  work  being  to  afford  only  such 
information  as  is  not  otherwise  easily  attainable. 

The  Tables  of  Weights  and  Measures,  and  their  comparative  values,  are  by  a 
competent  mathematician,  and  founded  on  official  or  other  well-established  data. 
They  include  also  a  careful  selection  of  general  statistical  information  from  authentic 
sources. 

The  last  24  pages  consist  of  Miscellaneous  Receipts,  which  would  not  readily 
admit  of  classification ;  including,  also,  a  few  additional  receipts  obtained  too  late 
to  take  their  place  in  the  part  of  the  book  to  which  they  properly  belong.  These 
will  always  be  found  by  consulting  the  Index,  a  course  which  will  insure  the  find- 
ing of  all  the  information  connected  with  the  subject  desired. 

Condensation  has  been  resorted  to  throughout  the  work,  as  far  as  possible,  and 
repetition  greatly  avoided  by  the  use  of  reference  numbers,  which  are  introduced 
wherever  it  has  been  found  necessary  to  refer  the  reader  for  further  information 
contained  in  some  paragraph  in  another  part  of  the  book. 

A  carefully  prepared  Index  is  appended,  in  as  condensed  a  form  as  perspicuity 
will  allow.  A  glance  at  the  directions  given  at  the  commencement  of  the  Index 
will  materially  aid  in  finding  the  article  or  paragraph  sought  for. 

In  submitting  to  the  public  this  contribution  to  the  popular  resources  of  general 
information  and  practical  knowledge,  the  compiler  begs  to  offer  his  apologies  for 
any  errors  or  omi^ms  that  may  occur  in  it;  reserving  for  future  editions  such 
corrections  and  adcHlftns  as  circumstances  may  suggest,  or  the  march  of  improve- 
ment demand.  By  no  means  assuming  the  impossible  attribute  of  perfection  for 
this  work,  he  believes  that  its  contents  will  at  least  warrant  his  claiming  for  the 
Encyclopedia  a  marked  superiority  over  other  existing  works  of  a  similar  nature. 


AUTHORITIES    QUOTED    AND    CONSULTED. 


Ajnerican  Chemist. 

American  Dispensatory,  6th  Edition. 

American  Journal  of  Science  and  Arts. 

Annales  de  Chimie  et  de  Physique. 

Beach's  American  Practice  and  Family  Physician. 

Beasley's  Druggists'  General  Receipt  Book,  6th  Edition. 

Booth's  Encyclopedia  of  Chemistry. 

Boston  Medical  and  Surgical  Journal. 

British  Pharmacopeia  for  1860. 

Bulletin  du  Muse6  de  1'Indnstrie  Belgique. 

Bulletin  Mensuel  de  la  Societ6  Chimique  de  Paris. 

Bulletin  of  General  Therapeutics . 

Chambers'  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia. 

Chemical  Times. 

Christison's  Dispensatory. 

Comtes  Rendus  des  Stances  de  1'Academie  des  Sciences. 

Cooley's  Cyclopaedia  of  Practical  Receipts,  5th  Edition. 

Cooley's  Practical  Receipts  for  Perfumes  and  Cosmetics. 

Cosmos. 

Dingler's  Polytechnisches  Journal. 

Druggists'  Circular  and  Chemical  Gazette. 

Dublin  Pharmacopeia  for  1850. 

Dussauce's  Practical  Guide  for  the  Perfumer. 

Eclectic  Medical  and  College  Journal. 

Edinburgh  Pharmacopoeia  for!841. 

Ellis's  Medical  Formulary,  12th  Edition. 

Fresenius'  Zeitschrift  fur  Analytische  Chemie. 

Guettier's  Metallic  Alloys. 

Hager's  Manuale  Pharmaceuticum. 

Hall's  Journal  of  Health. 

Hamburgh  Pharmacopseia. 

Jahresbuch  der  Physik. 

Journal  de  Pharmacie  et  de  Chimie. 

Kurten  on  the  Manufacture  of  Soaps. 

London  Pharmaceutical  Journal  and  Transactions. 

London  Pharmacopoeia  for  1851. 

L'Union  Medicale. 

Mackenzie's  10,000  Receipts. 

Makin's  Manual  of  Metallurgy. 

Mechanics'  Magazine. 

Mohr  and  Redwood. 


- 


VI  AUTHORITIES    QUOTED    AND    CONSULTED. 

Moniteur  Scientifique. 

Morfit's  Chemical  Manipulations. 

Muspratt's  Chemistry  as  applied  to  the  Arts  and  Manufactures. 

Napier's  Manual  of  Electro-Metallurgy,  4th  Edition. 

Neues  Jahrbuch  fur  Pharmacie 

Ott  on  Soaps  and  Candles. 

Paris  Codex. 

Parrish's  Practical  Pharmacy,  3d  Edition. 

Pereira's  Materia  Medica. 

Piesse's  Art  of  Perfumery. 

Proceedings  of  the  American  Pharmaceutical  Association.. 

Prussian  Pharmacopoeia. 

Rack's  French  Wine  and  Liquor  Manufacturer,  4th  Edition 

Redwood's  Supplement  to  the  Pharmacopoeia  (British). 

Revue  des  Cours  Scientifiques. 

Revue  Hebdomadaire  de  Chimie. 

Revue  Scientifique. 

Scientific  American. 

"Wright's  3,000  Receipts. 

United  States  Dispensatory,  13th  Edition. 

United  States  Pharmacopeia  for  1863. 

Ure's  Dictionary  of  Arts,  Manufactures  and  Mines. 

Youman's  Hand  Book  of  Household  Science. 

Yarious  Papers  delivered  before  Scientific  Societies. 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

CHEMICAL  MANIPULATIONS 9  and  355 

PREPARATIONS 17 

SPECIFIC   GRAVITY 22 

ALCOHOLMETRY 23 

ACETIMETRY 28 

ACIDIMETRY 29 

ALKALIMETRY 30 

THE  THERMOMETER 30 

THE  ART  OF  DYEING 31 

FAMILY  DYEING  EECEIPTS 47 

To  REMOVE  STAINS,  SPOTS,  &c 48 

THE  ART  OF  SOAP-MAKING 66 

TOILET  SOAPS 69 

SOAP  BY  THE  COLD  PROCESS 72 

SOFT  SOAPS 73 

HOME-MADE  TALLOW  CANDLES 77 

TANNING 78 

IMITATION  LIQUORS 80 

CHAMPAGNE 83 

HOME-MADE  WINES 84 

CORDIALS  OR  LIQUEURS 89 

BITTERS 93 

CIDER 94 

BREWING 97 

PERFUMERY 107 

COLOGNE  WATER  AND  PERFUMED  SPIRITS  111 

To  PREPARE  FLAVORING  EXTRACTS 114 

ARTIFICIAL  FRUIT  ESSENCES 115 

EXTRAITS  OR  PERFUMED  EXTRACTS 115 

AROMATIC  OR  PERFUMED  WATERS,  <fcc..H6 

AROMATIC  VINEGAR 118 

SMELLING  SALTS 119 

PERFUMED  POWDERS  AND  ROUGES 119 

COSMETICS 120 

WASHES  FOR  FAILING  HAIR 125 

HAIR  DYES > 126 

DEPILATORIES 128 

SCENTED  OR  PERFUMED  OILS 129 

POMATUMS  OR  POMADES  ..  ...131 


Page. 

TOOTH  POWDERS  AND  DENTIFRICES 135 

TOOTH  PASTES  AND  ELECTUARIES 136 

TOOTH  AND  MOUTH  WASHES 137 

FUMIGATING  PASTILS,  AND  INCENSE 138 

SYRUPS 140 

SYRUPS  FOR  SODA  WATER 142 

ALCOHOL 144 

ESSENTIAL  OR  VOLATILE  OILS 148 

FIXED  OILS  AND  FATS 152 

PETROLEUM  AND  KEROSENE 157 

LUBRICATORS  FOR  MACHINERY 158 

WATERPROOFING 159 

HONEY 161 

BEES'-WAX 162 

CHEESE 164 

PRESERVATIVES  AND  PRESERVING 165 

SOLUTIONS  FOR  ANATOMICAL  PREPARA- 
TIONS   170 

To  PRESERVE  WOOD 171 

FREEZING  MIXTURES 172 

DISINFECTANTS 173 

BLEACHING 175 

VINEGAR 177 

SAUCES,  CATSUPS  AND  PICKLES 181 

YEAST 184 

RECEIPTS  FOR  THE  FLOWER  AND  KITCH- 
EN GARDEN 185 

THE  EXTERMINATION  OF  VERMIN 191 

PREPARED  PAPER 193 

IVORY,  ALABASTER,  &c 198 

PYROTECHNY 202 

EXPLOSIVES 206 

CEMENTS  AND  UNITING  BODIES 208 

LUTES * 217 

FLOUR  PASTE ".;.?J. 218 

GLUE 219 

SEALING  WAX 221 

BOILER  INCRUSTATIONS 222 

GLASS...  ...223 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

ENAMELS 225 

GLAZES .227 

ARTIFICIAL  GEMS...  ...228 


FOILS 230 

INKS  AND  WRITING  FLUIDS 231 

ANILINE  COLORS 237 

LIQUID  COLORS  FOR  VARIOUS  PURPOSES. 244 
PIGMENTS 248 

DRYING  OILS  AND  DRYERS  . .  ,.  .252 


HOUSE  PAINTING 253 

KALSOMINE  AND  "WHITEWASH ..  ...257 


PAPER  HANGING. 


.258 


SOLUBLE  GLASS 259 

To  DYE  WOOD 260 

To  STAIN  WOOD 262 

VARNISH 263 

OIL  VARNISHES..  ...264 


.266 


SPIRIT  VARNISHES 

VARNISHING 272 

POLISHING 273 

FRENCH  POLISHING 274 

To  ENAMEL  WOOD-WORK 275 

JAPANNING 277 

INDIA  JAPANNING 278 

.  LACQUERS 279 

PRESERVATION  OF  LEATHER 281 

BOOT  AND  SHOE  BLACKING 282 

MARBLES  AND  SPRINKLES  FOR  BOOKS... 283 

PHOTOGRAPHY 285 

METALS 292 

ALLOYS 308 

FLUXES 316 

SOLDERING  AND  WELDING 317 

AMALGAMS 320 

GILDING,  SILVERING,  <fcc 322 

ELECTROTYPING 334 

ELECTROPLATING 340 

ELECTROGILDING 345 

ELECTROPLATING  WITH  VARIOUS  METALS. 349 


Page. 

BRONZING 352 

ACIDS 358 

ALKALIES 373 

ALKALOIDS 375 

GASES .377 

MISCELLANEOUS  CHEMICALS 381 

TESTS  OR  REAGENTS 407 

TEST  PAPERS 410 

FACTITIOUS  MINERAL  WATERS 411 

MEDICINAL  TINCTURES 414 

FLUID  EXTRACTS 418 

MEDICINAL  ESSENCES 423 

MEDICATED  SYRUPS 425 

Ox  YMEL 431 

ELIXIRS 431 

MEDICATED  WATERS 436 

MEDICINAL  SOLUTIONS 437 

LOTIONS 441 

LINIMENTS 443 

PILLS 446 

OINTMENTS,  SALVES  AND  CERATES 447 

POULTICES 452 

PLASTERS 453 

GARGLES 455 

CAUSTICS 456 

RUBEFACIENTS 456 

BALSAMS '. .  .456 

TONICS 458 

ANODYNES 459 

DIAPHORETICS 459 

DIURETICS 460 

ELECTUARIES 460 

FOMENTATIONS 461 

ALTERATIVES 461 

EMETICS 461 

PATENT  AND  PROPRIETARY  MEDICINES.. 462 

MEDICAL  RECEIPTS 478 

TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES,  «fcc.513 
MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS.  .  .  .541 


DICK'S   ENCYCLOPEDIA 


PRACTICAL  RECEIPTS  AND  PROCESSES. 


Manipulations.  TJnder  this 
heading  will  be  found  a  brief  descrip- 
tion of  the  various  methods  of  chemical  ma- 
nipulation, constantly  employed  in  this  work. 
This  is  deemed  especially  necessary,  as  many, 
if  not  all,  of  the  processes  described,  depend 
greatly  on  careful  and  skillful  manipulation  in 
the  preparation  as  well  as  in  the  combination 
of  the  necessary  ingredients.  (See  No.  3830.J 

2.  Annealing.    The  process  by  which 
glass  is  rendered  less  frangible,  and  metals, 
which  have  become  brittle,  again  rendered 
tough  and  malleable.     Glass  vessels,  and  other 
articles  of  glass,  are  annealed  by  being  placed 
in  an  oven  or  apartment  near  the  furnaces  at 
which  they  are  formed,  called  the  "leer," 
where  they  are  allowed  to  cool  slowly,  the 
process  being  prolonged  according  to  their 
bulk.    Steel,  iron,  and  other  metals,  are  an- 
nealed by  heating  them  and  allowing  them  to 
cool  slowly  on  the  hearth  of  the  furnace,  or 
any  other  suitable  place,  unexposed ,  to  the 
cold. 

3.  Bath.     In  cases  where  an  equable  heat 
has  to  be  sustained  at,  or  not  to  exceed,  a 
certain  fixed  degree,  it  is  evident  that  an  open 
fire  or  flame  would  be  too  variable  for  tho 
purpose.    To  obviate  this  difficulty,  the  vessel 
to  be  heated  is  immersed  or  imbedded,  to  a 
convenient  depth,  in  another  vessel  containing 
water,  oil,  saline  solution,  sand,  metal,  etc., 
as  circumstances  require,  to  which  the  heat  is 
applied  and  whose  temperature  can  be  regula- 
ted, if  necessary,  by  the  use  of  a  thermometer. 
Steam  is  also  applied  to  this  purpose ;  but,  of 
course,  requires  special  apparatus.    The  bath? 
most  commonly  used  are  the  water  bath  anc 
the  sand  bath. 

4.  Sand  Bath.    An  iron  or  copper  vesse 
should  be  employed  for  this  purpose.  Sufficien 
sea  or  river  sand,  previously  washed  clean  anc 
dried,  must  be  put  in  to  cover  the  bottom 
completely.     The  vessel  to  be  acted  on  is  thei 
introduced,  and  the  intervening  space  arounc 
it  filled  up  to  the  desired  height  with  sand 
and  the  whole  placed  over  a  furnace.    Th< 
object  of  the  sand  is  to  cut  off  direct  commu 


nication  with  the  fire  and  produce  a  gradual 
,nd  equable  heat. 

5.  Water  Bath,  or  Bain-Marie.  This 
arrangement  is  used  where  the  heat  required 
s  not  over  212°  Fah.,  and  consists  of  one 
ressel  within  another,  secured  so  that  they 
;annot  come  in  contact  at  any  point  below 
.he  level  of  the  water  which  has  been  intro- 
duced to  fill  up  the  space  between  them.  A 
double  glue-pot  is  a  water  bath. 

As  the  temperature  of  water  cannot  be 
jicreased,  in  an  open  vessel,  above  its  boiling 
joint,  212°,  a  vessel  immersed  in  it  can  never 
je  heated  above  that  point ;  and,  by  keeping 
the  water  boiling,  this  degree  can  be  steadily 
sustained.  "Where  other  degrees  of  heat  are 
requisite,  the  following  table,  showing  the 
boiling  points  of  different  substances  and  sat- 
urated solutions,  will  serve  as  a  guide.  A  still 
tiigher  degree  of  heat  may  be  reached  by  using, 
with  appropriate  vessels,  metals  whose  melting 
point  is  known.  (See  Index  for  Melting  Point 
of  Metals.) 

6.  Table  exhibiting  in  degrees  of  Fah- 
renheit the  Boiling  Heat  of  different 
liquids. 

Ether 96° 

do    sp.  grav. :  .7365  at  48° 100 

Carburet  of  Sulphur 113 

Alcohol,  sp.  gr.  .813 173} 

Nitric  Acid,  sp.  gr.  1.42 247 

Water 212 

Ammonia 14 

Muriatic  Acid,  sp.gr.  1.094 232 

Eectified  Petroleum 306 

Oil  of  Turpentine 31& 

Sulphuric  Acid,  sp.  gr.  1 .848 600 

do          do        do     1.810 473 

do         do        do     1.780.  A 435 

do          do        do     1.700 374 

do          do        do     1.650 350 

do          do        do     1.520 290 

do          do        do     1.408 260 

do         do        do     1.300 240 

Phosphorus 554 

Linseed  Oil 64( 

Whale  Oil g 

Mercury °62 


:   ..:•"•"••••    MANIPULATIONS. 


7.    Table  showing  the  Boiling  Heat  of 
various  Saturated  Solutions. 

Saturated  solution  of 

Muriate  of  Lime 285° 

Acetate  of  Soda 256 

Nitrate  of  Soda 246 

KochelleSalt 240 

Nitre 238 

Muriate  of  Ammonia 236 

Tartrate  of  Potash 234 

Sea  Salt 224i 

Muriate  of  Soda 224 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia 222 

Borax 222 

Phosphate  of  Soda 222 

Carbonate  of  Soda 220 

Alum 220 

Chlorate  of  Potash .218 

Sulphate  of  Copper 216 

Acetate  of  Lead 215$ 

Glauber  Salt 213£ 

8.  Concentration.     The  volatilization  or 
evaporation  of  part  of  a  liquid  in  order  to 
increase  the  strength  of  the  remainder.    The 
operation  can  only  be  performed  on  solutions 
of  substances  of  greater  fixity  than  the  men- 
strua or  liquids  in  which  they  are  dissolved. 
Many  of  the  liquid  acids,  solutions  of  the 
alkalis,  etc.,  are  concentrated  by  distilling  off 
their  water. 

9.  Crystallization.     Crystals  are  sym- 
metrical lorms  assumed  by  certain  bodies  in 
solidifying  from  a  liquid  or  gaseous  state: 
and  as  the  same  substances,  under  similar 
circumstances,     always    assume    the     same 
crystalline  shape,  their  crystals  afford  a  means 
of  distinguishing  substances  otherwise  similar 
in  appearance ;  as  for  instance  oxalic  acid  and 
Epsom  salts.    Sulphur,  anhydrous  salts,  lead, 
tin,  and  other  fusible  substances  which  are 
unalterable  by  heat  are  crystallized  by  fusion. 
They  are  to  be  melted  at  the  lowest  possible 
temperature,  and  allowed  to  cool  very  gradu- 
ally.   As  soon  as  a  crust  forms  on  the  surface 
(which  then  becomes  furrowed)  it  must  be 
pierced  with  a  rod,   and   the  fluid    portion 
decanted,  and  the  crystals  will  be  found  coat- 
ing the  interior  of  the  vessel.    Volatile  solids, 
such  as  iodine,  camphor,  etc.,  when  heated  so 
as  to  produce  Sublimation  (see  No.  30),  yield 
vapors  which,  in  cooling,  take  the  form  of 
crystals. 

Soluble  substances  are  crystallized  by  the 
evaporation  of  a  saturated  solution  of  the 
substance.  The  solution  should  be  made  and, 
if  necessary,  clarified  and  filtered  at  boiling 
point,  in  which  state  more  of  the  substance  is 
held  in  solution  than  when  cool;  this  excess 
is  deposited  in  crystalline  form  as  the  solution 
cools  or  evaporates.  The  crystals  thus  ob- 
tained are  strained  from  the  remaining  liquid, 
or  mother  water,  and  dried. 

If  strings  be  suspended  in  the  hot  solution, 
crystals  will  form  upon  them  during  cooling 
or  evaporation;  in  this  manner  rock-candy, 
blue  vitriol  (sulphate  of  copper),  alum,  etc., 
are  crystallized.  Crystallization  is  also  some- 
times the  result  of  chemical  reaction ;  silver, 
for  instance,  precipitated  from  its  solutions  by 
zinc,  forms  a  crystalline  deposit. 

10.  Decantation.  The  operation  of  pour- 
ing off  the  clear  portion  of  a  liquid  from  its 
sediment.  This  is  performed  either  by  gently 
inclining  the  vessel,  or  by  means  of  a  syphon. 


When  a  liquid  is  set  aside  to  settle  for  future 
decantation  by  the  first  method,  it  is  best  to 
use  a  bell  shaped  vessel,  or  one  provided  with 
a  lip,  for  convenience  in  pouring ;  as  in  decant- 
ing from  a  full  vessel  whose  side  is  straight, 
the  liquid  is  very  apt  to  flow  down  the  out- 
side of  the  vessel.  This  can,  however,  be 
obviated  by  holding  a  glass  rod  or  stick,  pre- 
viously wetted  in  the  liquid,  nearly  upright, 
with  one  end  resting  in  or  suspended  over  the 
receptacle  into  which  the  liquid  is  to  be 
decanted;  the  liquid  is  poured  gently  down 
the  upper  side  of  the  stick,  keeping  the  rim 
of  the  vessel  in  contact  with  it.  The  liquid 
will  be  more  strongly  attracted  by  the  wet 
stick,  than  by  the  dry  surface  of  the  outside 
of  the  vessel.  (See  illustration.) 


If  this  method  of  decanting  is  inconvenient, 
or,  from  the  nature  of  the  vessel,  impossible, 
a  syphon  must  be  used.  This  is  a  tube  of 
glass  or  metal,  bent  at  an  angle  of  about  30°, 
with  one  leg  or  end  longer  than  the  other.  A 
piece  of  india-rubber  tubing  makes  an  excel- 
lent and  easily  adjusted  syphon  for  decanting 
liquids  which  will  not  affect  that  material. 
The  syphon  must  be  first  filled  and  then  the 
shorter  leg  inserted  in  the  liquid,  care  being 
taken  to  keep  its  extremity  always  below  the 
surface,  and  the  liquid  will  flow  continuously 
out  of  the  longer  leg  as  long  as  there  is  any 
left  in  the  vessel.  For  decanting  caustic 
liquids,  acids,  <fcc.,  syphons  of  different  kinds 
are  provided,  constructed  especially  for  the 
purpose. 

11.  Deflagration.     The  sudden  combus- 
tion of  any  substance,  for  the  purpose  of  pro- 
ducing some  change  in  its  composition,  by 
the  joint  action  of  heat  and  oxygen.    The 
process  is  commonly  performed  by  projecting 
into  a  red  hot  crucible,  in  small  portions  at  a 
time,  a  mixture  of  about  equal  parts  of  nitre 
and  of  the  body  to  be  oxidized. 

12.  Desiccation.     The  evaporation    or 
drying  off  of  the  aqueous  portion  of  solid 
bodies.      Plants  and  chemical    preparations 
are  deprived  of  their  humidity  by  exposure 
to  the  sun,  a  current  of  dry  air,  an  atmosphere 
rendered  artificially  dry  by  sulphuric  acid,  or 
by  the  direct  application  of  heat  by  means  of 
a  water-bath,  a  sand-bath,  or  a  common  fire. 
Planks  and  timber  are  now  seasoned,  on  the 
large  scale,  in  this  way,  by  which  a  condition 
may  be  attained  in  2  or  3  days,  which,  on  the 
old  system,  took  as  many  years  to  produce. 

13.  Distillation.     Distillation    consists 
in  vaporizing  a  liquid  in  one  vessel,  and  con- 
ducting the  vapor  into  another  vessel,  where 
it  is  condensed  and  collected.    The  process  is 
used  for  separating  a  liquid  from  solid  sub- 
stances with  which  it  may  be  mixed ;  for  im- 
pregnating a  liquid  with  the  volatile  princi- 


MANIPULATIONS. 


11 


pies  of  plants,  as  in  the  preparation  of  Eau  de 
Cologne  and  other  aromatic  spirits,  and  for 
separating  a  more  volatile  liquid  from  one  less 
so,  as  alcohol  from  water. 

For  example,  as  alcohol  is  transformed  into 
vapor  at  the  temperature  of  176°,  while  water 
remains,  at  this  temperature,  in  a  liquid  state, 
it  is  only  necessary  to  heat  the  mixed  liquids 
to  176°,  when  the-  alcohol  rises  in  vapor,  and 
the  water  is  left  behind.  The  vessel  in  which 
the  liquids  are  heated  is  closed  by  an  air-tight 
cover,  and  from  this  cover  a  pipe  is  led  and 
coiled  through  a  cask  of  cold  water ;  as  the 
alcoholic  vapor  enters  this  cold  pipe  it  is 
condensed  to  the  liquid  form.  This  process  of 
evaporating  and  condensing  a  liquid  is  called 
distillation ;  the  apparatus  is  called  a  still  or 
retort,  and  the  coiled  pipe  is  the  "worm  of 
the  still,"  or  the  condenser. 

On  the  small  scale  distillation  is  performed 
in  the  simplest  way  by  means  of  the  common 
glass  retort  (a,)  and  the  receiver  (&,)  as  in 
Fig.  1.  The  retort  may  be  either  simple,  as 


Mg.  1. 

in  Fig.  2,  or  tubulated  as  in  Fig.  1,  and  some- 
times the  receiver  has  a  tubulure  to  allow  the 
escape  of  gas  or  expanded  air,  as  in  Fig.  3. 
The  great  advantages  of  the  glass  retort  are 
that  it  admits  of  constant  observation  of  the 
materials  within,  that  it  is  acted  upon  or  in- 
jured by  but  few  substances,  and  may  be 
cleaned  generally  with  facility.  Its  great 
disadvantage  is  its  brittleness. 

The  tubula- 
ted retort  is 
more  liable  to 
crack  than  the 
plain  one,  on 
account  of  the 
necessarily  Fig.  2. 

greater  thick- 
ness of  the  glass  in  tho  neighborhood  of  the 
tubulature ;  nevertheless  it  is  very  convenient 
on  account  of  the  facility  which  it  offers  for 
the  introduction  of  the  materials. 

When  the  common  glass  retort  and  receiver 
are  used  for  the  distillation  of  liquids,  care 
should  be  taken  not  to  apply  the  luting  until 
the  atmospheric  air  is  expelled  (see  Lute), 
unless  the  receiver  has  a  tubulure  for  its 
escape.  The  operator  should  aim  at  keeping 
the  body  of  the  retort  hot,  and  the  neck  and 
receiver  cool.  A  hood  of  pasteboard  will 
facilitate  the  former;  and  the  latter  will  be 


accomplished  by  keeping  the  neck  and  re- 
ceiver wrapped  in  wet  cloths,  on  which  a 
stream  of  cold 
water  is  kept  run- 
ning. This  may 
be  conveniently 
done  by  means  of 
a  syphon,  made 
.by  dipping  one 
end  of  a  strip  of 
cotton  in  a  vessel 
of  water,  and  al- 
lowing the  other 
end  to  hang  down 


upon  the  cloths, 


Fig.  3 

bound  loosely  around  the  receiver  and  the 
neck  of  the  retort.  Retorts  are  heated  in  a 
water  or  sand  bath,  placed  over  the  naked 
fire,  or  they  may  be  held  by  a  circle  of  metal, 
in  which  case  the  retort  may  be  heated  by 
the  argand  gas  flame,  as  in  Fig.  1,  or  by  live 
coals.  "Where  it  is  to  be  subjected  to  a  heat 
suificient  to  soften  the  glass,  the  bulb  may  be 
previously  coated  with  a  mixture  of  clay  afid 
sand,  and  dried.  (See  JVos.  1695  and  follow- 
ing.) 

Even  on  the  small  scale  it  is  sometimes 
necessary  to  employ  distillatory  apparatus 
constructed  of  other  materials  besides  glass. 

The  still  in  general  use  (seepage  12)  may  be 
considered  as  composed  of  three  or  four  parts : 

I.  The  cucurbit  or  body  of  the  still,   A. 
This  portion  of  the  apparatus  receives  the 
direct  action  of  the  fire,  and  contains  the 
liquid  to  be  distilled  when  the  process  is  to 
be  conducted  by  a  naked  fire.     It  is  in  the 
form  of  a  truncated  reversed  cone,  A,  mounted 
on  a  rounded  portion,  a  a,  which  rests  on  the 
furnace,  X  X,  and  terminated  at  the  top  by 
a  collar  of  somewhat  smaller  diameter  than 
the  lower  part. 

C  is  a  hole  by  which  the  liquid  is  introduced 
into  the  body  of  the  apparatus ;  d  d  are  the 
handles. 

II.  The  water-bath,  B,  a  cylindrical  vessel 
of  tin  or  tinned  copper,  which  is  placed  in  the 
cucurbit,  A,  closing  it  lightly  by  means  of 
the  collar,  m,  which  rests  on  the  collar,  6  6. 
This  vessel  is  used  only  when  the  mixture  to 
be  distilled  is  not  exposed  to  the  direct  heat 
of  the  fire ;  in  this  case  the  cucurbit,  A,  fulfills 
the  office  of  a  water-bath,  and  the  vessel,  B, 
takes  the  place  of  the  cucurbit. 

"When,  instead  of  distilling  by  the  naked 
fire,  the  water-bath  is  employed,  water  only 
is  put  into  the  cucurbit,  in  which  the  vessel, 
B,  is  placed  containing  the  liquid  to  be  dis- 
tilled. 

III.  The  head  of  the  capital,  G.    This  part 
may  be  placed  either  on  the  cucurbit,  when 
distilling  by  naked  fire,  or  on  the  vessel,  B,  if 
used,  care  having  been  taken  to  make  both 
openings  of  the  same  size ;  it  is  very  nearly 
the  shape  of  the  upper  part  of  a  retort,  and  is 
furnished  with  a  large  pipe  by  which  the 
vapor  is  to  be  carried  off  to  the  worm  or 
cooler. 

n.  A  hole  which,  during  the  operation,  is 
kept  closed  by  a  screw  top,  e,  and  its  use  is  to 
introduce  fresh  liquid  into  the  cucurbit  with- 
out having  to  disconnect  the  apparatus. 

IV.  The  cooler  or  worm,   D.     This  is  a 
long  tin  pipe,  bent  in  the  form  of  a  screw,  and 
enclosed  in  a  copper  or  wooden  vessel  full  of 


MANIP  ULA  TIONS. 


cold  water.  The  up- 
per part  of  the  pipe, 
which  is  often  en- 
larged in  a  globular 
form,  receives  from 
the  beak  of  the  cap- 
ital  the  vapors 
arising  from  the  cu- 
curbit; the  lower 
portion  is  open  be- 
low, so  that  the  con- 
densed liquid  flows 
into  a  vessel  placed 
underneath. 

All  the  joints  of 
the  apparatus  are  to 
be  luted  with  bands 
of paper  soakedin 
paste;  the  joint  of 
the  cucurbit,  when 
used  as  a  water- 
bath,  must  not  be 
tight,  in  order  to  al- 
low of  the  escape  of 
the  steam  from  the 
boillng  water.  (See 
Lute.) 

g  g.  Tin  rests  for 
Bupporting  and  fix- 
ing the  worm  in  the 
vessel. 

h.  A  vertical  pipe 
fixed  to  the  side  of 
the  vessel,  open  at  both  ends  and  terminated 
at  the  top  by  a  funnel. 

This  pipe  serves  to  renew  the  water  in  the 
cooler;  cold  water  is  poured  in  at  the  top 
which  flows  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  and 
being  of  a  lower  specific  gravity  than  the  hot 
water,  forces  it  out  at  the  escape  pipe,  i. 

k.  A  tap,  by  which  all  the  water  in  the 
worm  tub  can  be  discharged. 

/.  A  connecting  pipe  inserted  between  the 
beak  of  the  capital  and  the  collar  of  the  still 
is  of  precisely  the  same  height  as  the  collar, 
m,  of  the  cucurbit,  B,  and  is  only  used  in 
distilling  by  the  water-bath;  when  a  naked 
fire  is  used  this  pipe  is  unnecessary,  as  the 
beak  will  reach  down  to  the  collar  of  the  still 
without  it. 

In  distilling  perfumes  and  cordials,  the 
object  is  to  extract  or  separate  the  odorous 
and  aromatic  principle  from  the  roots,  flowers, 
seed,  or  spices  used  to  impart  the  character- 
istic odor  and  taste  to  the  liquor,  and  it  is 
usual  to  macerate  such  ingredients  in  strong 
alcohol  several  days  before  distillation.  Great 
care  should  be  taken  that  the  heat  should,  in 
all  cases,  be  as  gentle  and  uniform  as  possible. 
Kemember  that  accidents  may  be  effectually 
prevented  by  distilling  spirits  in  a  water-bath, 
which,  if  sufficiently  large,  will  perform  the 
operation  with  all  the  dispatch  requisite  for 
the  most  extensive  business. 

14.  Elutriation.  In  chemistry,  the  ope- 
ration of  washing  insoluble  powders  with 
water,  to  separate  them  from  foreign  matter, 
or  the  coarser  portion.  It  is  usually  per- 
formed by  grinding  or  triturating  the  mass 
with  a  little  water,  until  reduced  to  a  very 
fine  powder,  and  this  paste  is  suddenly  dif- 
fused through  a  large  quantity  of  water  in  a 
deep  vessel,  from  which,  after  the  subsidence 
of  the  grosser  portion,  the  liquid  is  poured  in- 


to another  vessel,  and  allowed  to  deposit  the 
fine  powder  it  still  holds  in  suspension. 
When  this  has  taken  place,  the  clear  super- 
natant liquor  is  decanted,  and  the  sediment 
drained  and  dried.  The  coarse  sediment  de- 
posited in  the  first  vessel  is  now  submitted  to 
a  fresh  grinding  and  diffusion  through  water, 
and  the  entire  operation  is  repeated,  until 
the  whole  of  the  pulverizable  portion  is 
washed  over.  The  proper  length  of  time  for 
the  liquid  to  remain  in  the  first  vessel,  depends 
solely  on  the  density  of  the  powder,  and  the 
degree  of  fineness  required  in  the  product; 
heavy  powders  subsiding  almost  immediately, 
while  light  ones  often  take  several  minutes  to 
deposit  their  coarser  portion.  Sometimes 
three  or  more  vessels  are  employed,  and  the 
muddy  liquor,  after  remaining  a  short  time  in 
the  first,  is  poured  into  the  next  one,  and 
this,  in  a  short  time  longer,  into  the  third, 
and  so  on,  until  the  last  vessel  is  filled,  by 
which  means,  powders  of  different  degrees  of 
fineness  are  obtained;  that  deposited  in  the 
last  vessel  being  in  the  minutest  state  of 
division. 

15.  Evaporation.  The  conversion  of  a 
fluid  into  vapor  by  means  of  heat,  diminished 
atmospheric  pressure,  or  exposure  to  a  dry 
atmosphere.  The  process  of  evaporation  is 
resorted  to; — 1.  For  the  vapor  as  a  source  of 
heat  or  power,  as  in  steam  boilers,  &c.; — 2. 
To  separate  volatile  fluids-  from  other  bodies 
which  are  either  fixed  or  less  volatile ; — 3.  To 
recover  solid  bodies  from  their  solutions ; — 4. 
To  concentrate  or  strengthen  a  solution  by 
expelling  a  portion  of  the  liquid; — 5.  To 
purify  liquids  by  expelling  any  volatile  mat- 
ters which  they  may  contain.  As  evapora- 
tion is,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  confined 
to  the  surface  of  the  liquid,  wide  shallow 
vessels  are  the  best  for  the  purpose ;  the  pro- 


MANIP  ULA  TIONS. 


13 


cess  is  greatly  facilitated  by  exposing  the 
surface  to  a  current  of  dry  air,  especially  if 
the  air  be  heated.  On  a  small  scale,  shallow 
capsules  of  glass,  wedgwood  ware,  porcelain  or 
metal,  are  commonly  employed,  and  are  ex- 
posed to  heat  by  placing  them  over  a  lamp, 
open  fire,  or  in  a  water  or  sand-bath.  (See 
No.  44.) 

16.  Fermentation.  Chemists  distinguish 
fermentation  into  five  kinds,  viz : 

The  saccharine  fermentation,  by  which 
starch  and  gum  are  converted  into  sugar. 

The  alcoholic  or  vinous  fermentation,  by 
which  sugar  is  converted  into  alcohol. 

The  viscous  or  mucilaginous  fermentation, 
which  converts  sugar  into  slime  or  mucilage, 
instead  of  alcohol. 

The  acetous  fermentation,  by  which  alcohol 
is  converted  into  vinegar. 

The  putrid  fermentation,  or  putrefaction, 
which  is  exhibited  in  its  most  marked  form  in 
the  putrefaction  of  animal  substances. 

17.  Filtration.     The  word  filtration  is 
absolutely  synonymous  with  straining;  but, 
in  the  language  of  the  laboratory,  the  former 
is  usually  applied  to  the  operation  of  render- 
ing  liquids    transparent,    or   nearly   so,   by 
passing  them  through  fine  media,  as  filtering 
paper,  for  instance;   the  latter  to  the  mere 
separation  of  the  grosser  portion,  by  running 
them  through  coarse  media,  as  flannel,  horse- 
hair   cloth,  etc.,  through    which    they  flow 
with    considerable    rapidity.       Filtration   is 
distinguished  from  clarification,  by  the  former 
removing  the  solid  matter,  or  cause  of  opacity 
or   foulness,   by    mere    mechanical    means, 
whereas  the  latter  consists  in  the  clearing  of 
a  liquid  by  depuration,  or  the  subsidence  of 
the  suspended  substances  or  fgeces,  arising 
from  their  gravity  being   naturally  greater 
than  the  fluid  with  which  they  are  mixed,  or 
being  rendered  so  by  heat  or  the  addition  of 
some  foreign  substance.     (See  Fining.) 

The  apparatus,  vessels,  or  media,  employed 
for  filtration,  are  called  filters,  and  are  com- 
monly distinguished  from  strainers  by  the 
superior  fineness  of  their  pores,  as  above 
noticed. 

Both  strainers  and  filters  act  on  the  same 
principles  as  the  common  sieve  on  powders ; 
they  all,  in  like  manner,  retain  or  hold  back 
the  coarser  matter,  but  permit  the  liquid  or 
smaller  and  more  attenuated  particles  to  pass 
through.  The  term  medium  has  been  applied 
to  the  substance  through  the  pores  of  which 
the  liquid  percolates. 

The  forms  of  filters,  and  the  substances  of 
which  they  are  composed,  are  various,  and 
depend  upon  the  nature  of  the  liquids  for 
which  they  are  intended.  On  the  small  scale, 
funnels  of  tin,  zinc,  copper,  wedgwood  ware, 
earthenware,  glass,  or  porcelain,  are  common- 
ly employed  as  the  containing  vessels.  The 
filtering  medium  may  be  any  substance  of  a 
sufficiently  spongy  or  porous  nature  to  allow 
of  the  free  percolation  of  the  liquid,  and 
whose  pores  are,  at  the  same  time,  sufficiently 
fine  to  render  it  limpid  or  transparent.  Un- 
sized paper,  flannel,  linen,  muslin,  cotton- wood, 
felt,  sand,  coarsely-powdered  charcoal,  porous 
stone  or  earthenware,  and  numerous  other 
substances  of  a  similar  kind  are  employed 
for  this  purpose. 

Filters  of  unsized  paper  are  well  suited  for 


Fig.  1. 


all  liquids  that  are  not  of  a  corrosive  or  viscid 
nature,  and  are  universally  employed  for 
filtering  small  quantities  of  liquids  in  the 
laboratory.  A  piece  of  the  paper  is  taken,  of  a 
size  proportionate  to  the  quantity  of  the  sub- 
stance to  be  filtered,  and  is  first  doubled  from 
corner  to  corner  into  a  triangle  (see  Fig.  1, 
below),  which  is  again  doubled  into  a  smaller 
triangle,  and  the  angular  portion  of  the 
margin  being  rounded  off  with  a  pair  of 
scissors,  constitutes  a  paper  cone,  which  is 
placed  on  a  funnel  and  nearly  filled  with  the 
liquid.  A  piece  of  paper  so  cut,  when  laid 
flat  upon  a  table,  should  be  nearly  circular. 
Another  method  of  forming  a  paper  filter,  pre- 
ferred by  some  persons,  is  to  double  the  paper 
once,  as  above  described,  and  then  to  fold  it 

in  a  similar 
way  to  a  fan, 
observing  so 
to  open  it 
(see  Fig.  2) 
and  lay  it  on 
the  funnel 
that  a  suffi- 
cient inter- 
val be  left 
between  the 
two  to  per- 
mit of  the 
free  percola- 
tion of  the  liquid.  (See  Fig.  3.) 

To  promote  the  same  object,  a  funnel  should 
be  deeply  ribbed  inside,  or  small  rods  of  wood  or 

glass,  or  pie- 
ces of  straw, 
or  quills, 
should  be 
placed  be- 
tween it  and 
the  paper. 
The  neck  of 
a  funnel 
should  also 
be  deeply  rib- 
bed or  fluted 
outside,  to 
permit  of  the 
free  outward  passage  of  the  air  when  it  is 
placed  in  a  narrow-mouthed  bottle  or  receiver. 
Unless  this  is  the  case,  the  filtration  will  pro- 
ceed but  slowly,  and  the  filtered  liquid  wifi  be 
driven  up  the  out- 
side of  the  neck  of 
the  funnel  by  the 
confined  air,  and 
will  be  continually 
hissing  and  flowing 
over  the  mouth  of 
the  vessel.  The 
breadth  of  a  funnel, 
to  filter  well,  should 
be  about  three- 
fourths  of  its  height, 
reckoning  from  the 
throat  or  neck.  If 
deeper,  the  paper  is 
liable  to  be  contin- 
ually ruptured  from 
the  pressure  of  the 
fluid;  and  when 
shallmver,  filtration 
proceeds  slowly, 
Fig.  3.  and  an  unnecessa- 


* 


MANIPULATIONS. 


rily  large  surface  of  the  liquid  is  exposed  to 
evaporation.  To  lessen  this  as  much  as  pos- 
sible, the  upper  edge  of  the  glass  is  frequently 
ground  perfectly  smooth,  and  a  piece  of  smooth 
plate-glass  is  laid  thereon.  When  paper  fil- 
ters are  of  large  dimensions,  or  for  aqueous 
fluids  that  soften  the  texture  of  the  paper,  or 
for  collecting  heavy  powders  or  metallic  pre- 
cipitates, it  is  usual  to  support  them  on  linen  or 
muslin  to  prevent  their  breaking.  This  is  best 
done  by  folding  the  cloth  up  with  the  paper 
and  cutting  the  filter  out  or  the  two,  in  the 
same  way  as  would  be  done  with  doubled 
paper,  observing  so  to  place  it  in  the  funnel 
that  the  paper  and  muslin  may  remain  close 
together,  especially  towards  the  bottom. 

The  filtration  of  small  quantities  of  liquids, 
as  in  chemical  experiments,  may  often  be 
conveniently  performed  by  merely  placing  the 
paper  on  the  circular  top  of  a  recipient;  or 
on  a  ring  of  glass  or  earthenware  laid  on  the 
top  of  any  suitable  vessel.  A  filter  of  this 
kind,  that  will  hold  one  fluid  ounce,  will  filter 
many  ounces  of  some  liquids  in  an  hour. 

Good  filtering  paper  should  contain  no  sol- 
uble matter,  and  should  not  give  more  than 
one  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  to  one  two  hun- 
dred and  thirtieth  of  its  weight  of  ashes.  The 
soluble  matter  may  be  removed  by  washing 
it,  first  with  very  dilute  muriatic  acid,  and 
secondly  with  distilled  water. 

For  filtering  a  larger  quantity  of  a  liquid 
than  can  be  conveniently  managed  with  a  fun- 
nel, and  also  for  substances  that  are  either  too 
viscid  or  too  much  loaded  with  feculence  to 
allow  them  to  pass  freely  through  paper, 
conical  bags  made  of  flannel,  felt,  twilled  cot- 
ton cloth  or  Canton  flannel,  linen,  or  muslin, 
and  suspended  to  iron  hooks  by  rings  or  tapes, 
are  commonly  employed.  (See  Fig.  4.)  The 


mm. 


Fig.  4. 


first  two  of  the  above  substances  are  prefer- 
able for  saccharine,  mucilaginous,  and  acidu- 
lous liquids ;  the  third  for  oily  ones ;  and  the 
remainder  for  tinctures,  weak  alkaline  lyes, 
and  similar  solutions.  These  bags  have  the 
disadvantage  of  sucking  up  a  considerable 


quantity  of  the  fluid  poured  into  them,  and 
are  therefore  objectionable,  except  for  large 
quantities,  or  when  continued  in  actual  use 
as  filters  for  some  time.  On  the  large  scale, 
a  number  of  them  are  usually  worked  to- 
gether, and  are  generally  enclosed  in  cases  to 
prevent  evaporation,  and  to  exclude  dirt  from 
the  filtered  liquor  that  trickles  down  their 
outsides. 

A  very  simple  mode  of  filtering  aqueous 
fluids,  which  are  not  injured  by  exposure  to 
the  air,  is  to  draw  them  off  from  one  vessel 
to  another,  by  means  of  a  number  of  threads 
of  loosely  twisted  cotton  or  worsted  arranged 
in  the  form  of  a  syphon.  The  little  cotton 
rope  at  once  performs  the  operations  of  de- 
cantation  and  nitration.  This  method  is  often 
convenient  for  sucking  off  the  water  from 
small  quantities  of  precipitates. 

When  pulverulent  substances,  as  sand, 
coarsely -powdered  charcoal,  etc.,  are  em- 
ployed as  the  media  for  filtration,  vessels  of 


Fig.  5. 

wood,  or  stoneware,  are  employed  to  contain 
them  and  the  supernatant  liquid.  In  these 
cases,  the  filtering  medium  is  usually  arranged 
as  a  shelf  or  diaphragm,  and  divides  the  vessel 
into  two  compartments ;  the  upper  one  being 
intended  to  contain  the  liquid,  and  the  under 
one  to  receive  the  same  when  filtered.  Such 
an  apparatus  is  set  in  operation  by  merely 
filling  the  upper  chamber,  and  may,  at  any 
time,  be  readily  cleaned  out  by  reversing  it 
and  passing  clean  water  through  it  in  an 
opposite  direction.  The  following  is  a  filter 
of  this  description,  and  very  simple  in  its 
arrangement.  (See  Fig.  5.)  A  is  a  common 
cask,  B  and  C  are  false  bottoms,  fitting  in  per- 
fectly air  tight,  but  perforated  with  one-fourth 
inch  holes.  C  should  be  covered  with  canvas, 
and  above  that  a  sheet  of  cotton  wadding ; 
above  the  wadding  is  abed  of  perfectly  clean 
sand,  3  inches  deep.  The  sand  should  be  cov- 
ered over  with  flannel,  and  above  the  flannel 
should  be  a  bed  of  granulated  animal  charcoal 
(sifted  and  fanned  from  the  dust),  4  inches 
in  depth.  After  having  done  this,  fit  in  the 
false  bottom,  B,  and  cover  it  with  a  piece  of 
cotton  cloth.  D  is  a  bag  made  of  Canton 
flannel  to  prevent  the  liquor  being  filtered 
from  coming  with  too  much  force  upon  the 
false  bottom.  By  substituting  cotton  wadding 
instead  of  the  charcoal  in  the  above  filter,  a 
fine  filter  for  brandy  and  other  liquors  may 
be  obtained. 


M  A  NIP  ULATIO  NS. 


15 


A  filter  which  possesses  the  advantages  of 
being  easily  and  cheaply  cleaned  when  dirty, 
and  which  very  thoroughly  purifies  brandy 
or  water  with  great  rapidity,  may  be  formed 
by  placing  a  stratum  of  sponge  between  two 
perforated  metallic  plates,  united  by  a  central 
screw,  and  arranged  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
permit  of  the  sponge  being  compressed  to  any 
required  degree.  Brandy  or  water,  under 
gentle  pressure,  flows  with  great  rapidity 
through  the  pores  of  compressed  sponge. 

It  is  often  of  great  advantage  to  render  a 
filter  self-acting,  or  to  construct  it  in  such  a 
way  that  it  may  feed  itself,  so  that  it  may 
continue  full  and  at  work  without  the  con- 
stant attention  of  the  operator.  On  the  small 
scale,  this  may  bo  readily  effected  by  an  ar- 
rangement as  represented  in  Fig.  6;  and  on 
the  large  scale  by  pla- 
cing the  vessel  con- 
taining the  unfiltered 
liquid  on  a  higher  level 
than  the  filter,  and  by 
having  the  end  of  the 
supply-pipe  fitted  with 
a  ballcock,  to  keep  the 
liquid  in  the  filter  con- 
stantly at  the  same 
height.  (8eeNo.'3840.) 

The  rapidity  of  fil- 
tration depends  upon 
the  porosity  of  the  fil- 
tering medium  —  the 
extent  of  filtering  sur- 
face— the  relative  vis- 
cidity or  limpidness  of 
the  filtering  liquid, 
and  the  porosity  and 
fineness  of  the  sub- 


Fig.  6. 


stances  it  holds  in  suspension.  The  most 
efficient  filter  is  produced  when  the  first  two 
are  so  graduated  to  the  latter,  that  the  liquid 
filters  rapidly  and  is  rendered  perfectly  trans- 
parent. (See  No.  3838.)  (Cooley.) 

Tinctures  and  dilute  spirits  are  usually 
filtered  through  bibulous  paper  placed  on  a 
funnel,  or  through  thin  and  fine  cotton  bags. 
In  general,  tinctures  clarify  themselves  by  the 
subsidence  of  the  suspended  matter,  when  al- 
lowed to  repose  for  a  few  days.  Hence  it  is 
the  bottoms  alone  that  require  filtering ;  the 
supernatant  clear  portion  need  only  be  run 
through  a  small  hair  sieve,  a  piece  of  tow  or 
cotton  placed  in  the  throat  of  a  funnel,  or 
some  other  coarse  medium,  to  remove  any 
floating  substances,  as  pieces  of  straw,  <fcc. 
Spirits  largely  loaded  with  essential  oil,  as 
those  of  aniseed,  <tc.,  run  rapidly  through 
paper  or  muslin,  but  usually  require  the  addi- 
tion of  a  spoonful  or  two  of  magnesia  before 
they  will  flow  quite  clear.  When  possible, 
tinctures,  spirits,  and  all  similar  volatile  fluids, 
are  better  cleared  by  subsidence  or  clarifica- 
tion than  by  filtration,  as,  in  the  latter  way, 
part  is  lost  by  evaporation.  (See  Nos.  3834,  <fec.) 

18.  Gun-cotton  as  a  Filter.     Gun-cot- 
ton, carefully  prepared,  is  scarcely  acted  on 
by  the  most  energetic  chemical  agents  at  or- 
dinary temperatures.     'It  may  therefore  be 
used  as  a  filter  for  solutions  containing  strong 
acids,  alkalies,  etc. 

19.  Fusion.     Aqueous  fusion  is  the  dis- 
solving of  crystalline  compounds  in  their  own 
water  of  crystallization,  by  the  application  of 


heat.  Igneous  fusion  is  a  term  applied  to  the 
liquefaction  of  bodies  by  heat  alone.  The 
containing  vessels  used  for  igneous  fusion 
should  be  of  a  material  capable  of  sustaining 
the  requisite  degree  of  heat  without  either 
melting  or  cracking.  Crucibles  made  of  very 
refractory  clay  are  used  for  high  temperatures, 
metallic  or  earthenware  vessels  for  lower  de- 
grees of  heat. 

20.  Granulation.     The    reduction    of 
metals  into  grains,  drops,  or  coarse  powder. 
This  is  done  by  pouring  them,  in  the  melted 
state,  into  water.    The  same  effect  is  obtained 
by  violently  agitating  the  molten  metal  until 
cool,  in  a  wooden  box,  well  chalked  inside. 
(See  No.  25.)     In  many  cases  the  metal  ia 
allowed  to  run  through  the  holes  of  a  kind  of 
colander  or  sieve  to  produce  minute  division ; 
if  the  drops  are  allowed  to  fall  from  a  sufficient 
height,  they  will  become  spherical;  in  this 
way  lead  shot  is  made. 

21.  Liquation.    The  process  of  sweating 
out,  by  heat,  the  more  fusible  metals  of  an 
alloy. 

22.  Liquefaction.    The  conversion  of  a 
solid  into  the  liquid  state,  either  by  heat — 
fusion,  (see  No.  19) ;  absorption  of  water  from 
the   air — deliquescence;   or  the   action  of  a 
fluid    body — solution.     (See   No.^  29.)    The 
liquefaction  of  gases  and  vapors  is  effected  by 
pressure  and  cold. 

23.  Lixiviation.     The  process  of  disolv- 
ing  out  or  extracting  the  saline  matter  of 
bodies,    more    especially  of  ashes,   <fec.,  by 
means  of  ablution  or  digestion  in  water.    The 
solution  so  obtained  is  called  a  lye  or  lixivium, 
and  the  salts  resulting  from  the  evaporation 
of  such  solutions,  lixivia!  salts. 

24.  Precipitation.    This  is  the  method 
for  obtaining  solid  matter,  by  mixing  two  or 
more  solutions  of  substances  containing  cer- 
tain  elementary  equivalents  which    have  a 
strong  mutual  chemical  affinity.    That  fluid 
which  is  added  to  another  to  produce  precipi- 
tation is  called  the  precipitant.    If  a  solution 
is  to  be  precipitated,  it  is  best,  unless  other- 
wise directed,  to  first  heat  it  by  means  of  a 
sand  bath.     (See  No.  4.)    A  tall  bell-shaped 
glass  with  a  mouth  is  the  best  for  precipitat- 
ing.    The  precipitant  is  to  bo  added  gradually, 
stirring  the  mixture  continually  with  a  glass 
rod,  until  precipitation  ceases.     The  liquid 
should  then  be  allowed  to  settle  until  clear. 
In  order  to  ascertain  whether  there  is  any 
matter  left  in  the  liquid  unprecipitated,  let 
one  drop  of  the  precipitant  fall  into  the  mix- 
ture ;  if  any  signs  of  precipitation  ensue,  more 
must  be  added;  if  the  mixture  remains  un- 
changed and  clear,  the  operation  is  complete. 
The  liquid  may  then  be  carefully  decanted 
and  the  precipitated  matter,  which  is  called  a 
precipitate,  filtered  and  dried.    When  the  pre- 
cipitate is  the  chief  object  of  the  process,  it  is 
usually  necessary  to  wash  it  after  filtration. 
This  operation   requires  but  little  attention 
when  the  precipitate  is  insoluble  in  water; 
but  when  it  is  in  some  degree  soluble  in  that 
liquid,  great  attention  is  required  to  prevent 
the  loss  which  might  result  from  the  use  of 
too    much   water.      Precipitates    soluble   in 
water,  but  insoluble  in  alcohol,  are  frequently, 
on  a  small  scale,  washed  with  spirit  more  or 
less  concentrated.     (See  No.  14.) 

25.  Pulverization.     The   reduction   of 


16 


MANIPULATIONS. 


any  substance  to  dust  or  powder  is  generally 
performed  by  means  of  a  pestle  and  mortar,  or, 
on  a  larger  scale,  by  stamping,  grinding  or 
milling.  A  few  soft  substances,  as  carbonate 
of  magnesia,  carbonate  of  lead,  <fec.,  may  be 
pulverized  by  simply  rubbing  through  a  fine 
sieve ;  while  many  hard  and  gritty,  and  some 
soft  substances,  such  as  chalk,  antimony,  &c., 
are  pulverized  on  a  large  scale  by  elutriation. 
(See  No.  14.)  Others  will  only  yield  to  a 
rasp  or  file.  Whichever  method  is  adopted, 
the  substance  to  be  pulverized  must  be  very 
dry,  and  may  even  require  artificial  drying 
or  desiccation.  (See  No.  12.)  On  the  other 
hand,  a  few  substances,  as  rice,  sago,  nux 
vomica,  <fcc.,  are  often  soaked  in  water,  or 
steamed,  before  being  pulverized.  In  some 
cases,  some  other  substance  or  intermedium  is 
introduced  to  aid  in  the  operation;  thus, 
sugar  is  used  in  pulverizing  civet,  musk,  nut- 
meg, and  vanilla;  absorbing  the  moisture 
which  could  not  otherwise  be  readily  got  rid 
of.  The  addition  of  a  very  small  quantity  of 
alcohol  renders  the  powdering  of  camphor 
easy.  Gold  leaf  is  pulverized  by  mixing  with 
sulphate  of  potassa,  and  then  removing  the 
potassa  by  washing  with  water.  (See  also 
•N»\  2517.)  Fusible  metals  are  reduced  by 
melting  and  rubbing  in  a  mortar  until  cold, 
or  by  agitating  when  melted  in  a  box  covered 
inside  with  chalk  or  whiting.  Glass,  quartz 
and  silicated  stones  require  to  be  heated  red 
hot  and  then  thrown  into  cold  water,  to  make 
them  sufficiently  friable  for  pulverization. 
"WTien  powdering  very  dusty  or  costly  articles 
in  a  mortar,  it  should  be  covered  with  a  loose 
skin  of  leather,  fastened  firmly  round  the  top 
of  the  mortar  and  the  pestle,  to  prevent  loss 
of  the  dust,  and  possible  injury  to  the  opera- 
tor's lungs.  When  a  substance  is  required  to 
be  reduced  to  an  impalpable  powder,  a  slab 
and  muller  are  used ;  this  process  is  termed 
porphyrization. 

26.  Reduction.    This  term  is  applied  to 
a  process  by  which  the  oxygen  is  withdrawn 
from  a  metallic  oxide,  leaving  the  base  in  its 
original  state.    This  is  effected  by  heating  the 
oxide  with  carbon  or  hydrogen ;  or  by  expos- 
ing it  to  the  action  of  some  other  body  which 
has  a  powerful  affinity  for  oxygen.    A  por- 
tion of  the  metallic  oxide  to  be  reduced,  is 
mixed  with  finely  powdered  charcoal  and  ex- 
posed in  a  crucible  to  the  heat  of  a  furnace. 
The  metallic  residue,  which  remains  after  re- 
duction by  this  means,  is  usually  mixed  with 
coal  dust.    This  is  prevented  by  lining  the 
crucible  with  charcoal  dust  made  into  a  dough 
with  clay  and  water,  leaving  a  space  in  the 
middle  to   receive  the    metallic    oxide,  not 
mixed  with  charcoal,  as  in  the  former  instance ; 
the  crucible  must  be  covered,  and  then  heated. 
The  reduction  in  this  way  is  slower,  but  the 
metal  will  be  pure  and  free  from  coal  dust. 

When  hydrogen  is  employed  for  reduction, 
the  metallic  oxide  is  heated  to  redness  in  a 
glass  or  porcelain  tube,  and  subjected  to  a 
current  ot  hydrogen  gas,  which  absorbs  the 
oxygen,  and  leaves  the  metal  pure.  Other 
agents  are  sometimes  used  for  reducing,  as 
tallow,  oil,  resin,  sugar,  and  starch ;  but  car- 
bon and  hydrogen  are  the  agents  generally 
employed. 

27.  Saturation.    A  liquid  is  said  to  be 
saturated  with  some  other  substance  when  it 


ceases  to  dissolve  any  more  of  it.  An  acid  is 
saturated  with  an  alkali  when  sufficient  of  the 
alkali  has  been  added  to  completely  neutralize 
the  acid,  and  vice  versa. 

28.  Sifting.     This  is  a  means  employed 
to  obtain  uniformity  of  fineness  in  a  pulver- 
ized substance ;  and  is  also  of  use  in  mixing 
different  substances  powdered  to  the  same 
degree  of  fineness.    The  sieves  used  for  this 
purpose  are  furnished  with  cloths  of  various 
materials  and  different  degrees  of  fineness; 
consisting  of  brass  wire,  horse  hair,  buckram, 
book  muslin,  gauze,  or  raw  silk;    this  last 
constituting  a  bolting  cloth  for  sifting  im- 
palpable powders.    These  are  stretched  over 
a  wooden  cylinder  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
head  of  a  drum.    During  the  process  of  pul- 
verizing, the  use  of  the  sieve  is  necessary  from 
time  to  time  to  separate  the  finer  powder  from 
the  coarser  particles,  which  have  to  be  re- 
turned after  each  sifting,  to  the  mortar  for 
further  trituration.     The  powder  is  made  to 
pass  through  the  meshes  of  the  sieve    by 
gently  agitating  it    between  the  hands;    a 
rough  jarring  motion  will  force  through  some 
of  the  coarser  particles,  and  destroy  the  uni- 
formity of  the  powder.    A  sieve  should  be 
fitted  with  a  drum  head,  top  and  bottom,  the 
upper  one  to  confine  the  dust  of  the  substance 
being  sifted,  and  the  lower  one  to  catch  the 
sifted  powder  as  it  falls  through  the  sieve. 
An  arrangement  of  this  kind  is  called  a  drum 
or  box  sieve. 

29.  Solution.     Under  the  head  of  solu- 
tions, are  properly  included  only  those  liquids 
which  consist  of  water  or  an  aqueous  men- 
struum, in  which  has  been  dissolved  an  ap- 
propriate quantity  of  any  soluble  substance  to 
impart  to  the  liquor  its  peculiar  properties. 
When  spirit  is  the  dissolving  medium,  the 
liquid  receives  the  name  of  alcoholic  solution, 
spirit,  or  tincture,  while  substances  dissolved 
in  water  form  aqueous  solutions.     In  cases 
where  a  substance  is  dissolved  in  an  acid  or 
alkaline  solution,  whose  acid  or  alkali  is  after- 
wards neutralized  by  means  of  an  alkali  (to 
counteract  the  acid),  or  an  acid  (to  destroy 
alkali),  the  solution  is  then  termed  a  neutral 
solution.    A  saturated  solution  is  a  solution 
made  according  to  No.  27. 

Professor  Youmans,  in  the  "Hand  Book  of 
Household  Science,"  says :  "  Solids  should 
be  crushed  or  pulverized,  to  expose  the  largest 
surface  to  the  action  of  the  solvent  liquid. 
Substances  which  in  the  lump  would  remain 
for  days  undissolved,  when  reduced  to  powder 
are  liquefied  in  a  short  time.  When  a  solid, 
as  common  salt  or  alum,  is  placed  in  a  vessel 
of  water  to  dissolve,  it  rests  at  the  bottom. 
The  water  surrounding  it  becomes  saturated, 
and  being  heavier,  remains  also  at  the  bot- 
tom, so  that  the  solution  proceeds  very  slowly. 
By  stirring,  the  action  is  hastened,  but  this 
takes  up  much  time.  The  best  plan  is  to 
suspend  the  salt  in  a  colander,  basket,  or 
coarse  bag,  at  the  surface  of  the  liquid.  As 
the  particles  of  water  take  up  the  particles  of 
salt,  they  become  heavier  and  sink;  other 
particles  take  their  places,  dissolve  more  of 
the  salt,  and  sink  in  turn,  so  that  the  action 
of  a  constant  current  of  liquid  is  kept  up  on 
the  suspended  crystals,  and  always  at  that 
portion  most  capable  of  dissolving  them." 

30.  Sublimation.    The  process  by  which 


PREPARATIONS. 


17 


volatile  solid  substances  are  reduced  to  the 
state  of  vapor  by  heat,  and  again  condensed 
in  solid  form.  It  differs  from  ordinary  distil- 
lation only  in  being  confined  to  dry  solid 
substances,  and  in  the  heat  employed  being, 
in  general,  much  greater.  Calomel,  corrosive 
sublimate,  and  sal  ammoniac,  are  thus  pre- 
pared. 

31.  Trituration.     The   reduction  of  a 
solid  body  to  powder  by  nibbing.     This  is 
effected  on  a  small  scale  by  means  of  a  pestle 
and  mortar ;  and  on  a  larga  scale  by  grinding 
in  a  mill,  or  with  a  muller  or  a  slab  made  of 
porphyry  or  other  hard  substance ;  this  latter 
is  termed  porphyrization. 

32.  Washing.     This  is  resorted  to    in 
chemistry  for  two  widely  different  purposes. 
When  a  substance  contains  both  soluble  and 
insoluble  matter,  the  soluble  portion  can  be 
separated  from  the  insoluble  by  washing ;  this 
is  called  Lixiviation.     (See  No.  23. ) 

"When  it  is  desired  to  cleanse  or  remove  im- 
purities from  an  insoluble  powder,  this  is  also 
effected  by  washing.  (See  Nos.  14  and  3841.) 


Preparations.  The  following 
methods  of  preparing  decoctions,  ex- 
tracts, tinctures,  &c.,  are  from  the  best  practi- 
cal sources.  Other  directions  for  making 
extracts,  essences,  attars,  &c.,  for  the  special 
purposes  of  Perfumery,  <fcc.,  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings. 

34.  To  Prepare  Decoctions.  Decoc- 
tions are  solutions  of  the  properties  of  vegeta- 
bles obtained  by  boiling,  which  is  presumed 
to  be  a  more  effective  method  of  extracting 
their  properties  than  mere  infusion. 

For  making  decoctions,  the  substances 
should  be  well  bruised,  or  reduced  to  a  very 
coarse  powder,  or,  if  fresh  and  soft,  they 
should  be  sliced  small.  In  the  former  case, 
any  very  fine  powder  or  adliering  dust  should 
be  removed  with  a  sieve,  as  its  presence 
would  tend  to  make  the  product  thick  and 
disagreeable,  and  also  more  troublesome  to 
strain.  The  vessel  in  which  the  boiling  is 
conducted  should  be  furnished  with  an  accu- 
rately fitting  cover,  the  better  to  exclude  the 
air,  and  the  heat  should  be  so  regulated  that 
the  fluid  may  be  kept  "simmering,"  or  only 
gently  boiling,  as  violent  boiling  is  not  only 
quite  unnecessary,  but  absolutely  injurious. 
In  every  case  the  liquor  should  be  strained 
while  hot,  but  not  boiling,  and  the  best  meth- 
od of  doing  this  is  to  employ  a  fine  hair  sieve, 
or  a  coarso  flannel  bag.  In  general  it  is 
found,  that  as  decoctions  cool,  a  sediment  is 
formed,  in  consequence  of  the  boiling  water 
dissolving  a  larger  portion  of  vegetable  mat- 
ter than  it  can  retain  in  solution  when  cold. 
This  deposit  for  the  most  part  consists  of  the 
active  principles  of  the  solution,  and  should 
be  mingled  with  the  clear  liquid  by  agitation, 
when  the  decoction  is  used.  It  will  thus  be 
seen  that  the  common  practice  of  leaving  the 
filtration  until  the  liquid  has  become  cold,  and 
also  of  rejecting  the  sediment,  is  injudicious, 
and  should  be  scrupulously  avoided;  as,  how- 
ever much  decoctions  so  prepared  may  please 
the  eye,  they  are  not  only  inferior  in  strength, 
but,  in  many  cases,  nearly  inert.  It  may  be 
further  remarked,  that  long  boiling  is  in  no 


case  necessary,  and  should  be  avoided,  espe- 
cially in  decoctions  prepared  from  aromatic 
vegetables,  or  those  abounding  in  extractive. 
The  colleges,  in  such  cases,  direct  the  ingre- 
dients "to  be  boiled  for  a  short  time,"  or  "for 
10  minutes,"  or  they  limit  the  time  of  boiling 
by  stating  the  quantity  that  must  be  volatil- 
ized, as — "boil  to  &pint,  and  strain,"  the  lat- 
ter method  being  generally  employed  for 
those  substances  that  do  not  suffer  by  length- 
ened boiling. 

Distilled  water,  or  perfectly  clean  rain 
water,  should  alone  be  used  for  decoctions. 
Spring  and  river  water,  from  then-  containing 
lime,  have  less  solvent  powers. 

Decoctions  of  all  vegetables  not  exerting  a 
very  powerful  action  on  the  human  system 
may  be  made  by  boiling  1  ounce  of  the  vegeta- 
ble matter  in  1  pint  of.  water  for  10  or  15 
minutes.  The  ordinary  dose  of  such  a  decoc- 
tion is  the  same  as  that  of  a  similar  infusion. 
(See  No.  37.) 

"When  the  medicinal  properties  of  vegetables 
are  volatile,  or  are  injured  by  a  strong  heat, 
infusion  should  be  had  recourse  to,  in  prefer- 
ence to  boiling;  but  when  a  solution  of  the 
fixed  constituents  is  alone  sought,  decoction 
is  preferable.  In  preparing  compound  decoc- 
tions, those  ingredients  should  be  boiled  first 
which  least  readily  impart  their  active  princi- 
ples, and  those  which  most  readily  impart 
them  should  be  added  afterwards.  In  many 
cases  it  will  be  proper  simply  to  infuse  the 
more  aromatic  substances  in  the  hot  decoction 
of  the  other  ingredients,  by  which  means 
their  volatile  principles  will  be  preserved. 

35.  To  Prepare  Tinctures.  Tinctures 
are  solutions  of  vegetable  and  animal  drugs, 
and  sometimes  of  mineral  substances,  in  spir- 
ituous liquids.  The  spirit  most  commonly 
employed  is  proof-spirit;  sometimes  rectified 
spiritis  used,  and  occasionally  ether.  Ammonia 
is  sometimes  conjoined  with  the  spirit,  in  which 
case  the  solution  is  termed  an  ammoniated 
tincture.  Kectified  spirit  is  alcohol,  with  16 
per  cent,  of  water,  and  its  specific  gravity  is 
.838.  Proof-spirit  is  composed  of  5  parts  of 
rectified  spirit  mixed  with  3  parts  of  water, 
the  resulting  compound  containing  47.5  per 
cent,  of  water,  specific  gravity  .920.  The 
choice  between  proof  and  rectified  spirit  de- 
pends on  their  respective  solvent  powers  over 
the  active  principles  of  the  drugs  employed. 

Tinctures  are  usually  prepared  by  reducing 
the  solid  ingredients  to  small  fragments, 
coarse  powder,  or  fine  powder,  macerating 
them  for  7  days  or  upwards  in  proof  or  rec- 
tified spirit,  straining  the  solution  through 
linen  or  muslin,  or  paper,  and  finally  express- 
ing the  residuum  strongly,  to  obtain  what 
fluid  is  still  retained  in  the  mass.  They  aro 
also  prepared  by  the  method  of  displacement. 
(See  No.  41.)  All  tinctures  should  be  pre- 
pared in  close  glass  or  stoneware  vessels,  and 
be  shaken  frequently  during  the  process  of 
maceration.  Tinctures  are  better  clarified  by 
repose  than  by  filtration,  as  in  the  latter  case  a 
considerable  portion  is  retained  by  the  fil- 
tering medium,  and  lost  by  evaporation.  In 
ordinary  cases,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  allow 
the  tincture  to  settle  for  a  few  days,  and  then 
to  pour  off  the  clear  supernatant  portion 
through  a  funnel  loosely  choked  with  a  piece 
of  sponge  or  tow,  to  keep  back  any  floating 


18 


PREPARATIONS. 


fragments  of  straw  or  other  light  substances; 
after  which  the  remaining  foul  portion  of  the 
liquid  may  be  filtered  through  paper.  When 
it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  filter  a  tincture, 
and  the  quantity  is  large,  conical  bags  should 
be  employed.  The  filtration  should  be  con- 
ducted as  rapidly  as  possible,  for  the  double 
purpose  of  lessening  the  amount  lost  by  evap- 
oration, and  the  action  of  the  air  on  the  fluid. 
Tinctures  long  exposed  to  the  air  frequently 
lose  their  transparency  within  a  few  days 
after  their  filtration,  owing  to  the  oxidation 
and  precipitation  of  some  portion  of  the  mat- 
ter previously  held  in  solution.  Resinous  and 
oily  tinctures,  as  those  of  myrrh,  tolu,  and 
lavender,  may  be  usually  restored  to  their 
former  brightness  by  the  addition  of  a  quan- 
tity of  spirit,  equal  to  that  which  they  have 
lost  by  evaporation;  but  many  tinctures  resist 
this  mode  of  treatment,  and  require  refiltering. 
Ethereal  tinctures  are  best  prepared  by  perco- 
lation, and  should  be  both  made  and  kept  in 
stoppered  bottles. 

When  both  the  substances  are  fluid,  as  in 
the  case  of  certain  balsams,  the  spirituous  so- 
lution is  made  by  merely  mixing  the  two 
together  in  suitable  proportions.  For  instance 
— Tincture  or  essence  of  Tolu  consists  of  3 
drachms  balsam  of  Tolu  and  1  quart  of  al- 
cohol. 

The  tinctures  of  the  drug-stores  are  usually 
very  uncertain  and  inferior  preparations.  Not 
only  is  their  manufacture  carelessly  conduct- 
ed, without  reference  to  the  respective  char- 
acters of  their  ingredients,  but  the  ingredients 
themselves  are  often  deficient  in  strength  and 
quantity. 

We  will  now  proceed  to  explain  the  various 
methods  by  which  good  tinctures  are  obtained. 

36.  To  obtain  Tinctures  by  Infusion, 
Maceration,  and  Digestion.  In  order  to 
extract  the  soluble  principles  of  substances 
which  cannot  be  advantageously  distilled,  in- 
fusion is  often  resorted  to.  This  consists  in 
submitting  them  for  a  greater  or  less  period 
of  time  to  the  action  of  a  liquid,  with  or  with- 
out the  aid  of  heat. 

^This  is  known  by  the  name  of  infusion, 
digestion,  or  maceration,  terms  all  signifying 
the  same  process  with  different  modifications 
in  the  way  of  conducting  it. 

87.  Infusion,  When  the  principles  to 
be  extracted  are  soluble  in  water,  and  at  the 
same  time  but  slightly  volatile,  boiling  water 
is  poured  on  the  substance  of  which  the  infu- 
sion is  required,  the  vessel  is  carefully  covered, 
and  the  whole  allowed  to  remain  untouched 
for  some  minutes  or  even  some  hours,  accord- 
ing to  the  greater  or  less  penetrability  of  the 
substance,  and  the  required  strength  of  the 
infusion ;  the  result  is  an  INFUSION,  properly 
so  called. 

If  an  infusion  is  required  of  dried  leaves  or 
flowers,  they  are  first  moistened  with  a  little 
boiling  water,  and  a  time  allowed  for  them  to 
swell  and  soften  before  adding  the  rest  of  the 
water.  Infusions  made  by  adding  all  the 
water  at  once,  as  is  still  frequently  practiced, 
are  deficient  both  in  flavor  and  perfume.  The 
infusion  of  tea  is  an  every-day  illustration  of 
this ;  as  all  who  can  make  a  good  cup  of  tea 
know  how  necessary  it  is  to  first  draw  the 
tea  with  a  small  portion  of  water ;  and  yet, 
strange  to  say,  this  principle  is  utterly  ne- 


glected in  the  case  of  coffee,  where  its  applica- 
tion is  just  as  effective.  (See  French  Coffee.) 

Infusions  of  all  vegetables  that  do  not 
exert  a  very  powerful  action  on  the  human 
frame,  may  be  made  by  pouring  1  pint  of 
boiling  water  on  1  ounce  of  the  vegetable 
matter  and  allowing  it  to  macerate  for  from 
$  to  1  hour.  The  ordinary  dose  of  such  in- 
fusions is  1  to  2  ounces  three  or  four  times  a 
day. 

Infusions,  like  decoctions,  are  liable  to  un- 
dergo spontaneous  decomposition  by  keeping, 
especially  in  warm  weather,  when  a  few  hours 
are  often  sufficient  for  their  passage  into  a 
state  of  active  fermentation;  they  should 
therefore  be  prepared  for  use  daily,  as  beyond 
24  hours  they  cannot  be  depended  on. 

Infusions  should  be  made  in  vessels  which 
cannot  be  attacked  by  any  of  the  substances 
with  which  they  are  in  contact,  and  closed 
sufficiently  tight  to  prevent  the  loss  of  the 
most  volatile  principles. 

The  tin  cucurbit,  with  cover,  is  in  these  two 
respects  best  adapted  for  infusions  in  water. 

38.  Concentrated  Infusions.     These 
are  now  very  generally  met  with  in  trade, 
and  are  made  of  8  times  the  pharmacopoeia! 
strength.     They  are  mostly  prepared  by  em- 
ploying 8  times  the  usual  quantity  of  ingre- 
dients, and  only  three-fourths  of  the  proper 
quantity  of  water,  and  adding  to  the  strained 
liquor,  when  cold,  sufficient  spirit  of  wine  to 
bring  the  liquid  up  to  the  proper  strength 
(about  one-third  of  the  weight  of  the  strained 
infusion).     A  still  better  plan  is  to  treat  8 
times  the  usual  quantity  of  the  ingredients 
with  a  mixture  of  rectified  spirits  1  part  and 
cold  water  3  parts ;   in  the  usual  way  for 
making  tinctures,  either  by  maceration  for  7 
to  14  days,  or  by  percolation.     Concentrated 
infusions  made  in  this  way  keep  well,  and  de- 
posit scarcely  any  sediment.    Many  houses, 
that  are  remarkable  for  the  brilliancy  and 
beauty  of  these  preparations,   employ  one- 
third  spirit  of  wine  and  two-thirds  water  as 
the  menstruum.    It  may,  however,  be  taken 
as  a  general  rule,  that  for  vegetable  substances 
that  abound  in  woody  fibre,  and  contain  but 
little  extractive  matter  soluble  in  water  (as 
quassia  for  instance),  one-sixth  to   one-fifth 
part  of  spirit  is  sufficient  for  their  preserva- 
tion ;  while  for  those  abounding  in  mucilage 
or  fecula,  or  that  readily  soften  and  become 
pulpy  and  glutinous  in  weak  spirit  (as  rhu- 
barb), one-fifth  to  one-third  is  required.     By 
macerating  in  the  infusion  as  much  bruised 
mustard  seed  as  can  be  added  without  flavor- 
ing the  liquor,  along  with  a  little  bruised 
cloves,  most  vegetable  infusions  may  be  pre- 
served without  either  fermenting  or  becom- 
ing mouldy  with  very  little  spirit  (one-ninth 
or  one-tenth). 

39.  Maceration.     When  an  infusion  is 
made  without  the  aid  of  heat  it  is  termed 
maceration.     This  takes  a  much  longer  time 
than  an  infusion,  properly  so  called ;  it  rarely 
requires  less  than  7  days,  sometimes  several 
weeks.       Those    substances   to   which    heat 
would  be  injurious,  or  which  are  easily  solu- 
ble, are  treated  in  this  way.     In  many  distil- 
lations this  method  is  made  use  of  to  Soften 
the  substances  before  putting  into  the  still ; 
and  to  facilitate  the  extraction  of  their  odor- 
ous principle. 


PREPARATIONS. 


Tinctures,  when  prepared  by  maceration, 
should  be  frequently  shaken  during  the  pro- 
cess, which  should  be  conducted  in  glass 
vessels  well  stopped. 

40.     Digestion   is  a  prolonged  infusion 
which  is  usually  conducted  at  a  medium  tem- 
perature between  that  required  for  an  infusion, 
properly  so  called,  and  that  of  a  maceration. 
Its  object  is  usually  to  impregnate  alcohol 
with  the    principles  of  a  substance    whic] 
would  be  but  slowly  extracted  without  th 
aid  of  a  certain  amount  of  heat,  such  as  tha 
of  the  sun  or  of  hot  ashes. 

Mixing  together  two  or  more  liquors  am 
allowing  them  to  stand  for  some  days,  is  als< 
called  digestion. 

Maceration  and  digestion  arc  usually  per 
formed  in  vessels  of  stoneware  or  glass,  which 
are  placed  on  the  sand-bath,  in  cases  where  a 
regular  and  uniform  heat  is  required. 

"Whatever  may  be  the  form  or  nature  of  th 
vessels  employed,  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
fill  them  full,  also  to  cover  those  which  are 
to  be  placed  on  the  sand-bath  with  a  damp 
piece  of  parchment  tightly  tied  round  the  top 
with  many  pin  holes  pricked  in  it.  If  this 
latter  precaution  be  neglected,  the  increasec 
volume  produced  by  the  heat  and  also  the  ex- 
pansion of  the  air  may  burst  it.  Moreover, 
the  process  is  never  so  well  conducted  in  a 
vessel  that  is  too  full. 

41.  To  obtain  Tinctures  by  Displace- 
ment or  Percolation.  The  kind  of  filtra- 
tion commonly  called  the  process  of  displace- 
ment, for  extracting  the  essence  from  roots, 
herbs,  seeds,  barks,  &c.,  is  effected  in  the 
following  manner :  It  is  first  necessary  that 
the  articles  to  be  acted  upon  should  be  ground 
in  a  drug  mill  to  the  condition  of  a  coarse 
powder ;  then  weigh  each  powder  by  itself, 
and  mix  them  together  in  the  proportions 
demanded  by  the  recipe,  and  moisten  the 
mass  thoroughly  with  alcohol,  allowing  it  to 
macerate  for  12  hours  in  a  vessel  well  covered. 
Next  is  required  a  hollow  instrument  of 
cylindrical  form,  having  one  end  shaped  liked 
a  funnel,  so  that  it  can  be  inserted  in  the  neck 
of  a  glass  bottle,  and  having  inside,  near  the 
lower  end,  a  partition  pierced  with  numerous 
small  holes,  like  the  strainer  of  a  French 
coffee-pot,  which  is  a  simple  coffee  percolator ; 
in  the  absence  of  such  a  partition,  soft  cotton, 
or  any  insoluble  substance,  may  be  substituted, 
and  being  placed  in  the  inside  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  instrument,  will  answer  as  well  as 
the  strainer.  This  instrument  is  called  a 
percolator.  Boullay's  filter  or  percolator  is 
usually  employed.  Macerate  the  ingredients 
to  be  acted  upon,  for  the  time  named — intro- 
duce them  into  the  percolator,  and  slightly 
press«them  upon  the  partition.  Any  portion 
of  the  liquid  used  in  the  maceration,  not  ab- 
sorbed by  the  powder,  should  be  poured  upon 
the  mass  in  the  instrument,  and  allowed  to 
percolate.  JSTow  gradually  pour  into  the  per- 
colator sufficient  of  the  alcohol,  or  other 
liquid  to  be  filtered,  to  drive  before  it,  or  dis- 
place, the  liquid  contained  in  the  mass;  the 
portion  introduced  must  in  like  manner  be 
displaced  by  another  portion ;  and  so  on,  till 
the  required  quantity  of  filtered  liquor  is  ob- 
tained. This  extract  is  called  a  tincture.  In 
case  the  liquor  which  first  passes  through 
should  be  thick  and  turbid,  again  introduce  it 


into  the  instrument,  being  very  careful  not  to 

have  the  powder  too  coarse  or  loosely  pressed, 

or  it  will  permit  the  liquid  to  pass  too  quickly; 

and  on  the  other  hand  it  should  not  be  too 

:  fine  and  compact,  or  it  may  offer  an  unneces- 

:  sary  resistance.    Should  the  liquor  flow  too 

I  rapidly,  return  it  to  the  instrument,  and  close 

i  it  beneath  for  a  time,  and  thus  permit  the 

;  finer  parts  of  the  powder  to  subside,  and  cause 

a  slower  percolation. 

The  method  of  percolation  is  now  preferred 
by  all  who  have  made  sufficient  trial  of  it  to 
apply  it  correctly. 

The  first  portion  of  liquid  obtained  by  the 
method  of  displacement  is  always  in  a  state 
of  high  concentration.  In  general  it  is  a 
simple  solution  of  the  soluble  ingredients  of 
the  crude  drug  in  the  fluid  employed.  But 
sometimes  the  solvent,  if  compound,  is  re- 
solved into  its  compound  parts,  and  the  fluid 
which  passes  through  it  at  any  given  time  is 
only  one  of  these,  holding  in  solution  only  the 
most  soluble  parts  of  the  drug. 

Thns,  if  diluted  alcohol  be  poured  over 
powder  of  myrrh,  in  the  cylinder  of  the  per- 
colator, the  fluid  which  first  drops  into  the 
receiver  is  a  solution  of  an  oily  consistence 
chiefly  composed  of  resin  and  volatile  oil  dis- 
solved in  alcohol.    In  like  manner  when  the 
powder  of  gall-nuts  is  treated  in  the  same 
way  by  hydrated  sulphuric  ether,  two  layers 
of  fluid  are  obtained,  one  of  which  is  a  highly 
concentrated  solution  of  tannin  in  the  water 
of  the  ether,  and  the  other  a  weak  solution  of 
the  same  principle  in  pure  ether.      In    all 
cases,  therefore,  m  which  it  is  not  otherwise 
directed,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  agitate 
the  several  portions  of  the  liquid  obtained  by 
percolation  together,  in  order  to  insure  a  pro- 
duct of  uniform  strength,  or  activity. 
To  illustrate  the  operation  of  displacement, 
and    describe    an  excellent 
percolator  for  making  per- 
fume tinctures,  we  will  sup- 
pose that  benzoin  is  under 
treatment.     The  apparatus 
made  wholly  of  glass,  hav- 
ing been  arranged  as  shown 
by  the  engraving,  and  a  plug 
of  raw  cotton  dropped  loose- 
c^ly  at  6,  the  benzoin  in  coarse 
powder  is  then  poured  into 
the  tube  portion,  A,  until  it 
C  reaches  the  line,  c.    Alco- 
hol (95  per  cent.)  is  next 
added,  until  it  rises  to  the 
line,  d.     As  soon  as  the  first 
portion  sinks  into  the  ben- 
zoin, a  fresh  addition  must 
be  made ;  and  thus  the  suc- 
ceeding   relays  go  on   dis- 
placing those    which    pre- 
ceded them  without  mingling 
with  them.     Each  stratum 
becomes    more    and    more 
charged  with  soluble  matter 
as  it  descends;    and  when 
it  reaches  the  bottom  of  the 
mass,  under  the  pressure  of 
the  superincumbent  liquor, 
it  runs  out  saturated.  When, 
by   successive   additions  of 
fresh  alcohol,    the  benzoin 
inder  treatment  has  become  exhausted,  the 


20 


PREPARATIONS. 


liquid  passes  through  the  mass,  and  falls 
into  the  receiver,  B,  as  tasteless  and  colorless 
as  when  first  poured  in.  This  indicates  the 
completion  of  the  process. 

As  atmospheric  pressure  is  an  important 
element  in  the  operation,  it  will  not  answer 
to  shut  it  off  by  closing  the  top  of  the  dis- 
placer,  without  making  some  compensating 
arrangement;  and,  therefore,  a  communica- 
tion between  the  upper  and  lower  vessels  is 
established  by  means  of  a  latent-tube  arrange- 
ment, D.  In  this  manner  the  apparatus  is 
kept  close,  and  the  evaporation  of  alcohol 
prevented,  while  the  pressure  produced  is  dis- 
tributed throughout  the  apparatus,  and  ren- 
dered uniform.  As  the  runnings  are  clear, 
filtration  is  rarely  necessary.  The  quantity  of 
alcohol  thus  consumed  need  not  be  more  than 
sufficient  to  exhaust  the  material ;  and  the 
resulting  tincture  must  therefore  be  diluted  to 
the  proper  strength.  For  perfumes,  deodorized 
alcohol  arast  always  be  used. 

The  method  of  displacement  has  the  advan- 
tage of  expedition,  economy,  and  yielding  pro- 
ducts possessing  uniformity  of  strength ;  but  it 
requires  considerable  experience  to  adapt  it  to 
all  substances.  The  art  rests  in  properly 
packing  the  ingredients  in  the  cylinder,  some 
substances  requiring  considerable  pressure  to 
be  used,  while  others,  when  even  lightly 
packed,  scarcely  permit  the  fluid  to  pass 
through  them.  An  excellent  plan  applicable 
to  all  substances,  but  especially  those  of  a 
glutinous  or  mucilaginous  nature,  is  to  mix 
the  powder  with  an  equal  bulk  of  well-washed 
sand,  before  rubbing  it  up  with  the  menstruum. 
The  coarseness  of  the  powder  must  also  be  at- 
tended to.  Substances  that  readily  become 
soft  and  pappy  when  wetted  by  the  menstruum, 
should  not  be  used  so  fine  as  those  that  are 
more  woody  and  fibrous.  The  method  of 
displacement  answers  well  for  the  preparation 
of  all  tinctures  that  are  not  of  a  resinous 
nature,  and  for  most  infusions  of  woody  and 
fibrous  substances,  as  roots,  woods,  barks, 
leaves,  seeds,  insects,  &c.  It  is  especially 
adapted  for  the  preparation  of  concentrated 
infusions  and  essences,  as  they  may  thus  be 
obtained  of  any  required  strength,  without 
loss,  or  requiring  concentration  by  heat, 
which  is  so  destructive  to  their  virtues. 

When  ordinary  tinctures  are  made  in  large 
quantities,  displacement  is  never  likely  to  su- 
persede maceration,  on  account  of  any  prac- 
tical advantages  it  may  possess.  If  the  pre- 
scribed directions  be  duly  attended  to,  the  pro- 
cess of  maceration  is  unexceptionable.  The 
process  is  more  simple  than  the  other;  the 
mode  of  operating  more  uniform ;  it  is,  in  fact, 
always  the  same ;  it  requires  less  of  skill  and 
dexterity  in  conducting  it;  it  requires  less 
constant  attention  during  its  progress,  which, 
in  operating  on  large  quantities,  is  a  considera- 
tion; and  finally,  the  apparatus  required  is  less 
complicated.  When,  however,  only  small 
quantities  of  tincture  are  to  bo  made  at  a  time, 
and  kept  in  stock,  the  adoption  of  the  process 
of  displacement  will  often  be  found  conve- 
nient and  advantageous.  It  offers  the  means 
of  making  a  tincture  in  two  or  three  hours, 
which,  by  the  other  process,  would  require  as 
many  weeks.  (Sec  No.  4572.) 

42.  Proportion  of  Ingredients  used 
for  making  Tinctures.  Tho  following  are 


the  proportions  usually  employed  for  the  most 
important  perfume  tinct  res : 

Tincture.  Troy.         Alcohol. 

Vanilla Vanilla  bean,  rasped — 1  Ib 8  pts. 

Musk Grain  musk 2  dracbms.8  pts. 

Franeipani Powder  alafrangipani.l  Ib 6 pts. 

Rhodium Rhodium-wood,  rasped.  1  Ib 2  qts. 

Civet Civet,  orria-root %  oz 2  qts. 

Tonquin  Tonka  bean 1  Ib ..8pta. 

Orris Orris-root 1  pts 8  pts. 

Alkanet— red  col.-Alkanet %  oz 1  qt. 

Turmeric— yellow.Turmeric %  oz 1  qt. 

43.  To  Prepare  Emulsions.  These 
are  milky  liquids,  formed  by  the  mechanical 
admixture  of  oil,  balsam,  or  resin,  with  water, 
by  means  of  some  other  substance  that 
possesses  the  property  of  combining  with 
both.  There  are  numerous  preparations  of 
the  kind  in  pharmacy  and  medicine,  which, 
m  the  later  pharmacopoeias,  have  received 
the  name  of  "mixtures."  There  are  also 
several  emulsions  employed  as  cosmetics, 
either  alone,  or  as  vehicles  for  other  ingre- 
dients. The  common  name  of  emulsions  is 
"milk,"  but  the  term  is  often  incorrectly 
extended  to  opaque  white  liquids  of  an  en- 
tirely distinct  character. 

The  successful  preparation  of  emulsions  is 
a  matter  requiring  some  little  skill  and  care. 
In  some  instances,  as  with  the  almond,  the 
two  substances  necessary  to  produce  a  perfect 
emulsion  are  presented  by  nature,  ready  to 
our  hand,  in  the  same  vegetable  production ; 
nothing  more  is  necessary  than  to  reduce  it  with 
the  pestle,  and  triturate  it  with  water,  gradu- 
ally added.  In  other  cases,  and  which  are 
far  the  more  numerous,  we  have  to  operate 
on  oily  or  resinous  ingredients  in  their  com- 
mon form.  These  we  are  enabled  to  suspend 
in  water,  or  mechanically  combine  with  it,  by 
the  intervention  of  thick  mucilage,  almonds, 
or  yolk  of  egg.  It  is  found  that  1  drachm 
(60  grs.)  of  the  first — made  with  equal  parts 
of  good  gum-arabic  and  water  (powdered 
gum  is  sometimes  used  instead  of  mucilage) — 
1  ounce  of  the  second,  (usually  about  26  in 
number),  and  one  of  the  last,  will  form  2 
drachms  of  oil  or  resinous  matter  into  an 
emulsion  with  about  1  fluid  ounce  of 
water,  gradually  added ;  and  such  an  emul- 
sion, if  properly  made,  will  then,  in  most  in- 
stances, bear  further  dilution  with  water. 
(The  yolk  of  an  ordinary-sized  hen's  egg  is  re- 
ferred to.  It  should  be  remembered,  that 
emulsions  formed  with  yolk  of  egg  will  not 
keep  long,  owing  to  the  putrescible  nature 
of  the  latter.)  Of  these,  mucilage  is  the 
medium  most  commonly  employed.  Ac- 
cording to  Montgomery,  for  conversion  into 
permanent  emulsions,  "  oils  require  about 
three-fourths  their  weight  ;  balsams  and 
spermaceti,  equal  parts;  resins,  twice  their 
weight;  and  musk  and  ambergris  5  times 
its  weight."  In  some  cases  instead  of  the 
above  substances,  a  little  liquor  of  potassa 
is  employed,  when  a  saponaceous  emulsion 
is  formed,  which  differs  considerably  in  its 
properties  from  an  emulsion  of  the  same 
ingredients  produced  by  means  of  a  bland 
meJium. 

In  making  an  emulsion,  the  gum,  or  other 
medium  employed,  should  be  first  put  into 
the  mortar,  and  rendered  thoroughly  homo- 
geneous with  the  pestle.  If  almonds  are 
used,  they  should  be  treated  as  noticed  under 


PREPARATIONS. 


"  almond-paste  "  (see  No.  1123),  a  few  drops 
of  water  being  added  to  prevent  "oiling,"  and 
to  reduce  them  to  a  smooth,  soft  paste.  The 
oil  or  resinous  matter  may  then  be  gradually 
added  and  rubbed  in,  carefully  observing  not 
to  add  it  more  quickly  than  it  can  be  subdued 
by  the  pestle ;  and  if,  during  this  part  of  the 
manipulation,  the  mixture  should  begin  to 
exhibit  a  "breaking"  or  "curdling"  appearance 
at  the  edges,  a  few  drops  of  water  must  be 
immediately  incorporated  with  it,  before  add- 
ing the  remainder  of  the  oil.  If  this  be  not 
done,  the  emulsive  mixture  in  the  mortar 
will,  in  general,  suddenly  lose  its  tenacious 
consistence,  and  the  process  will  fail.  After 
the  whole  of  the  oil,  balsam,  or  resinous 
matter  is  thoroughly  incorporated,  the  water 
or  other  aqueous  vehicle  intended  to  form  the 
bulk  of  the  emulsion,  should  be  added  gradu- 
ally and  with  care,  each  portion  being  per- 
fectly blended  with  the  liquid  mass  in  the 
mortar,  by  patient  trituration,  before  adding 
the  next.  If  any  alcoholic  liquid  is  employed, 
it  should  bo  added  at  the  very  end  of  the  pro- 
cess, and  then  only  very  gradually,  as  other- 
wise it  will  cause  the  separation  of  the  in- 
gredients. 

It  must  be  observed  that  soluble  salts, 
spirit,  acids,  and  astringents,  are,  as  a  rule, 
incompatible  with  the  emulsive  form.  If 
saline  matter  must  be  introduced,  it  should 
only  be  added  in  a  very  minute  quantity,  and 
in  the  state  of  solution,  to  the  ready-formed 
emulsion;  and  in  this  case  emulsion  of  al- 
monds is  the  most  suitable  vehicle.  (See  No. 
1125.)  Spirits  and  acids  act  by  precipitating 
the  mucilaginous  matter,  or  yolk.  Even  the 
addition  of  a  very  little  lemon  juice,  or  of  a 
portion  of  slightly  acescent  syrup,  will  often 
entirely  destroy  an  emulsion.  This  inevitably 
occurs  with  emulsions  made  with  liquor  of 
potassa,  or  other  alkaline  medium,  owing  to 
the  absolute  incompatibility  of  acids  and 
alkalies  in  the  same  liquid. 

It  is  found  that  volatile  oils  are  more  readily 
made  into  emulsions  if  mixed  with  an  equal 
volume  of  some  simple  fixed  oil,  as  that  of 
the  almond  or  olive,  before  proceeding  to 
operate  on  them. 

All  emulsions  should  be  well  shaken  before 
use.  ( Coolcij. ) 

44.  To  Prepare  Extracts.  The  pro- 
cess of  obtaining  an  extract  of  a  substance 
involves  two  distinct  operations:  First,  the 
production  of  a  solution  of  the  soluble  por- 
tion of  the  substance  operated  on;  and  next, 
the  reduction  of  this  solution  to  a  proper 
consistence  by  evaporation.  The  substance 
is  first,  where  practicable,  reduced  to  coarse 
powder  by  bruising,  or  sliced  with  a  knife,  so 
that  every  portion  may  be  fully  exposed  to 
the  action  of  the  solvent.  Refractory  substan- 
ces are  first  softened  by  the  solvent  and  then 
sliced.  Other  substances  whose  nature  does 
not  require  reducing,  aro  used  without  prepa- 
ration. 

Different  fluids  are  used  for  solvents,  as 
best  adapted  to  the  solubility  of  the  substance 
under  treatment.  Some  bodies,  such  as  fresh 
vegetables,  yield  their  juice  by  expression 
alone.  In  the  preparation  of  aqueo  us  extracts, 
the  ingredients  are  treated  with  rain  or  dis- 
tilled water,  until  all  the  soluble  matter  that 
is  desired  to  obtain  from  them  is  dissolved 


21 

This  is  effected  by  either  maceration,  percola- 
tion, infusion,  or  decoction,  as  circumstances 
require:  the  solution  thus  obtained  is  poured 
off  and  the  remaining  soluble  matter  either 
)ressed  or  washed  out,  and  added  to  the  solu- 
ion;  it  is  next  allowed  time  to  settle,  then 
decanted,  and  strained  or  filtered;  and  if  this 
Mis  to  render  the  liquid  clear,  it  is  clarified 
jy  white  of  egg,  and  filtered;  Canton  flannel, 
first  soaked  in  water,  being  generally  em- 
ployed for  this  purpose.  "When  water  acid- 
ilated  with  acetic  acid  is  employed,  vegetable 
substances  are  usually  macerated  in  it  in  the 
2old,  or  the  dilute  acid  is  sprinkled  over  tho 
cruised  plant,  if  fresh,  and  the  juice  expressed 
jy  strong  pressure. 

When  the  principles  to  be  extracted  are  in- 
soluble, or  only  slightly  soluble,  in  water, 
alcohol  is  employed,  either  in  the  form  of  rec- 
tified spirit,  proof  spirit,  or  diluted.  These 
produce  alcoholic  or  spirituous  extracts;  and 
ire  generally  obtained  by  either  macera tion  or 
digestion. 

Ether  is  well  adapted  for  obtaining  extracts 
from  bodies  whose  principles  consist  of  vola- 
tile oils  or  resin,  on  account  of  its  strong 
affinity  for  those  substances.  Such  are 
termed  ethereal  extracts.  In  nearly  all  cases, 
filtration  is  necessary  to  insure  a  pure  extract. 

The  means  usually  employed  for  evapora- 
ting an  aqueous  solution,  are  rapid  boiling 
over  a  fire  until  the  extract  is  thick  enough 
to  offer  some  risk  of  burning,  and  the  evapo- 
ration finished  over  a  water  bath  or  in  shal- 
low vessels  at  a  moderate  heat,  the  further 
escape  of  vapor  being  promoted  by  continu- 
ous stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon  or  stick.  It 
is  not  always  advisable  to  heat  a  solution  to 
the  boiling  point,  but  if  boiling  is  resorted  to, 
it  cannot  be  done  too  rapidly,  as  the  heat  can- 
not rise  above  its  boiling  point,  and  rapid 
ebullition  hastens  evaporation.  The  fluid  must 
never  be  stirred  while  ebullition  is  going  on. 

Two  fundamental  rules  are: — to  conduct 
evaporation  at  as  low  a  temperature  as  is 
consistent  with  other  objects;  and, — to  ex- 
clude atmospheric  air;  or,  at  least,  to  expose 
the  liquid  to  its  action  for  as  short  a  time  as 
possible,  as  most  solutions  lose  more  or  less 
of  their  active  principles  by  heat  and  exposure. 
Solutions  which  will  not  bear  boiling  without 
loss  of  strength  are  evaporated  in  a  vacuum, 
either  in  a  closed  still,  or  under  the  receiver 
of  an  air  pump,  in  which  a  vessel  is  placed 
containing  strong  sulphuric  acid;  this  has  a 
powerful  affinity  for  water  and  absorbs  its  va- 
por as  quickly  as  it  comes  in  contact  with  it. 

A  good  plan  for  evaporation,  though  slow, 
is  to  place  the  liquid  in  a  broad  shallow  vessel, 
exposed  in  a  stove  or  drying  room  to  a  tem- 
perature of  about  100°  Fahr.,  allowing  free  ac- 
cess for  tho  air.  The  extracts  thus  evaporated 
are  said  to  be  lighter  in  color  and  more  trans- 
parent than  by  most  other  ways. 

The  method  for  evaporating  an  alcoholic  or 
an  ethereal  solution  is  substantially  the  same 
as  that  pursued  with  an  aqueous  solution;  ex- 
cept that,  as  a  matter  of  economy,  the  vapor 
may  be  led  off'  and  condensed  again. 

A  good  extract  should  be  free  from  grit,  and 
wholly  soluble  in  20  parts  of  the  solvent  used 
for  making  the  extract,  forming  a  nearly  clear 
solution;  it  should  be  of  a  proper  consistence 
and  of  uniform  texture  and  color,  smooth  and 


SPECIFIC    GRAVITY. 


glossy  in  appearance;  this  latter  can  only  be 
arrived  at  by  assiduous  and  laborious  stirring 
as  the  extract  thickens;  and  may  be  promoted  j 
by  adding  3  or  4  per  cent,  each  of  olive  oil 
and  gum  arable,  with  1  or  2  per  cent,  of  spirit 
of  wine.  Extracts  should  be  put  into  pots  as 
Boon  as  made,  securely  tied  down  with  blad- 
der, and  kept  in  a  dry  place.  Any  tendency 
to  become  mouldy  may  be  prevented  by  add- 
ing, the  last  thing  before  removing  from 
the  evaporating  pan,  a  few  drops  of  oil  of 
cloves,  or  a  still  less  quantity  of  creosote,  dis- 
solved in  a  little  alcohol;  or  by  moistening 
with  oil  of  cloves  or  creosote,  the  inside  of  the 
bladder  used  for  covering  the  pots. 

45.  To  obtain  Vegetable  Juices  by 
Expression.  The  juices  of  plants  are  ob- 
tained by  bruising  the  fresh  leaves  in  a  mar- 
ble mortar,  or  in  a  mill,  and  expressing  the 
juice  which,  after  defecation  for  some  hours 
in  a  cool  situation,  is  either  filtered  through 
paper,  or  strained  after  coagulating  its  albu- 
ninous  matter  by  heat.  Some  plants  require 
the  addition  of  |  its  quantity  of  water  before 
pressing.  The  expression  of  the  juice  of  lem- 
ons, oranges,  quinces,  &c.,  is  facilitated  by 
previously  mixing  the  pulp  with  clean  chop- 
ped straw.  Mulberries,  &c.,  after  being 
crushed  between  the  hands,  are  left  3  or  4 
days  to  undergo  a  slight  fermentation,  before 
pressing.  A  very  powerful  screw  press  is  re- 
quired for  this  purpose.  The  PRESERVATION 
of  the  juices  of  the  narcotic  plants,  and  some 
other  vegetables,  has  lately  assumed  consid- 
erable interest,  from  these  preparations  having 
been  proposed  as  substitutes  for  the  common 
tinctures.  It  appears  that  the  juice  of  young 
plants  just  coming  into  flower,  yields  only  | 
the  amount  of  extract  which  may  be  obtained 
from  the  same  quantity  of  juice  expressed 
from  the  matured  plant,  or  when  the  flowers 
are  fully  blown;  and  the  strength  of  the  pro- 
duct is  also  inferior.  The  leaves  alone  shoulc 
be  preferably  employed,  and  should  be  exclu- 
sively of  the  second  year's  growth,  when  th~ 
plants  are  biennials. 

Bruise  the  leaves  in  a  marble  mortar  (on 
the  large  scale,  in  a  mill),  and  submit  them 
to  the  action  of  a  powerful  press;  allow  th( 
juice  to  remain  for  21  hours  in  a  cold  place 
then  decant  the  clear  portion,  add  £  part  b; 
measure  of  spirit  (90  per  cent.),  agitate,  an( 
in  24  hours  again  decant  the  clear,  and  filte 
it  through  paper.  Keeps  well  under  ordinarj 
circumstances. 

The  method  directed  by  the  Paris  Codex  i 
as  follows:  to  the  fresh  leaves,  bruised  in 
marble  mortar,  is  added  an  equal  weight  € 
rectified  spirit,  and  after  maceration  for  1 
days,  the  whole  is  pressed,  and  the  resultin 
tincture  filtered. 

The  commencing  dose  of  the  narcotic  juice 
is  about  5  drops.  In  the  above  manner  ar 
prepared  the  preserved  juices  of  aconite,  be 
ladonna,  colchicum  (conns),  hemlock,  hci 
"bane,  foxglove,  lactuca  virosa,  taraxacum,  &( 

46.  To  Extract  Essential  Oil  from 
Wood,  Barks,  Boots,  Herbs  etc.  Tak 
balm,  mint,  sage,  or  any  other  herb,  <fec.,  pi 
into  a  bottle,  and  pour  upon  it  a  spoonful  < 
ether;  keep  in  a  cool  place  a  few  hours,  an 
then  fill  the  bottle  with  cold  water;  the  e 
sential  oil  will  swim  on  the  surface,  and  ma 
be  easily  separated. 


O  pecifiC  Gravity  is  the  density 
k»^  of  the  matter  of  which  any  body  is  com- 
posed, compared  with  the  density  of  another 
>dy,  assumed  as  the  standard,  or  1.000. 
his  standard  is  pure  distilled  water  for 
quids  and  solids,  and  atmospheric  air  for 
aseous  bodies  and  vapors.  In  the  United 
tates  and  England  the  specific  gravity,  unless 
'hen  otherwise  expressed,  is  always  taken  at 
0°  F.;  but  in  Prance  at  32°,  or  the  tempera- 
ire  of  melting  ice.  In  most  cases,  however, 

is  sufficient  merely  to  note  the  temperature, 
nd  to  apply  a  correction,  depending  on  the 
nown  density  of  water  or  air,  at  the  different 
egrees  of  the  thermometric  scale. 

The  above  plan  has  been  adopted,  because 
he  weight  of  an  equal  btdk  of  different  sub- 
tances  varies  greatly.     Thus,  as  gold  is  19 
nd  silver  10  times  heavier  than  water,  those 
umbers,  19  and  10,  are  said  to  represent  the 
pecific    gravity  of  gold    and    silver.     The 
eaviest  of  all  known  substances  is  the  very 
lard  metal  used  for  making  points  to  the  so- 
ailed  diamond  gold  pens. .  It  is  called    iri- 
ium ;  its  specific  gravity  is  23.    Next  comes 
latinum,  21 ;  gold,  19 ;  mercury,  13.5 ;  lead, 
1.3;  silver,  10;  copper,  8;  iron,?;  zinc,  6; 
ifferent  kinds  of  stones,  from  4  to  1 ;  alumi- 
mm,  2.5.    Flax  and  all  woody  fibres  have  a 
pecific  gravity  of  1.4,  and  are  thus  heavier 
han  water,  but  wood  will  float  or  sink  ac- 
,ording  to  the  number  of  its  pores  into  which 
he  water  does  not  penetrate.     So  ebony  and 
many  kinds  of  hard  wood  sink,  pine  and  all 
kinds  of  soft  wood  float.     Cork  is  the  lightest 
wood,  its  specific  gravity  being  only  0.24,  less 
than  one-quarter  that  of  water.     Alcohol  is 
about  three-quarters  the  weight  of  water,  and 
as  the    strength  of  liquor  depends  on  the 
amount  of  alcohol  it  contains,  this  strength  is 
simply  found  out  by  its  specific  gravity  indi- 
cated by  the  more  or  less  floating  of  a  littb  in- 
strument called  a  hydrometer,   the  weaker 
iquid  being  little  lighter  than  water  has  the 
strongest  buoyant  power;    solutions  of  dif- 
ferent salts,  sugar,  etc.,  being  heavier  than 
water,  have  a  stronger  buoyant  power ;  ves- 
sels therefore  will  draw  less  water  in  the  sea 
than  in  fresh  water,  and  it  is  more  difficult  to 
swim'  in  the  latter  than  in  the  sea.     The 
lightest  of  all  liquids  has  a  specific  gravity  of 
0.6 ;  it  is  called  chimogene,  and  is  made  from 
petroleum;    it  is    exceedingly  volatile    and 


combustible;  in  fact,  it  is  a  liquefied  gas. 
Carbonic  acid  gas  or  choke  damp  is  about  500 
times  lighter  than  water;  common  air,  800; 
street  gas  about  2,000,  and  pure  hydrogen, 
the  lightest  of  all  substances,  12,000  times. 
The  heaviest  substance  has  thus  23x12,000 
or  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  million  times 
more  weight  than  an  equal  bulk  of  the  light- 
est ;  and  the  substance  of  which  comets  con- 
sist, has  by  astronomers  been  proved  to  be 
even  several  thousand  times  lighter  than 
hydrogen  gas. 

48.  To  find  the  Specific  Gravity  of  a 
Substance  heavier  or  lighter  than  Wa- 
ter. In  order  to  ascertain  the  specific  gravity 
of  a  body  heavier  than  water,  the  following 
method  is  adopted.  First  weigh  it  in  air,  then 
weigh  it  immersed  in  water.  The  difference 
between  these  two  weights  will  be  its  loss  of 
weight  in  water,  or,  in  other  words,  the  weight 
of  the  water  displaced.  Then  divide  the  weight 


ALCOHOLMETRY. 


in  air  by  its  loss  in  water,  and  the  result  is 
the  specific  gravity. 
Thus,  suppose  a  substance  weighs, 

12  pounds  in  air, 
and  10  pounds  in  water. 

Ite  loss  is  2  pounds  in  water. 

Divide  12  (weight  in  air)  by  2  (loss  in 
water),  and  the  result  isits  specific  gravity, 6. — 
That  is,  the  substance  is,  bulk  for  bulk,  6 
times  as  heavy  as  water. 

If  the  substance  will  not  sink  in  water, 
then  weight  must  be  added  to  make  it  just 
sink  below  the  surface.  This  extra  weight, 
added  to  the  weight  in  air,  show  its  loss  in 
water.  Thus,  if  a  substance  weighs  8  pounds 
in  air,  but  requires  2  pounds  to  be  added  to 
submerge  it  in  water,  its  loss  of  weight  in 
water  is  2  added  to  8=10  pounds. 

Proceeding  as  before,  we  divide  its  weight 
in  air,  8,  by  its  loss  in  water,  10  and  we  have 
it  specific  gravity  -&=.8. 

49.  To  find  the  Specific  Gravity  of  a 
Liquid  or  a  Gas.     Weigh  it  in  a  specific 

fravity  bottle,  glass  flask,  or  other  vessel  of 
nown  capacity ;  and  dividing  that  weight  by 
the  weight  of  the  same  bulk  of  water,  the 
quotient  is,  as  before,  the  specific  gravity. 

50.  To  find  the  Specific  Gravity  of  a 
Solid  Body  Soluble  in  Water.    Take  its 
specific  gravity  in  regard  to  some  liquid  which 
does  not  dissolve  it,   and  multiply  by  the 
specific  gravity  of  the  liquid.    Thus,  a  piece 
of  sugar,  whose  weight  is  400  grains,  is  found 
to   lose  217.5  grains  if  weighed  when  im- 
mersed in  oil  of  turpentine ;  this  would  make 
its  specific  gravity,  as  compared  with  oil  of 
turpentine,  •2Ji°rQ3=l-84.     The  specific  gravity 
of  the  turpentine  is  .87;  then,  1. 84  X. 87  =1.6, 
the  real  specific  gravity  of  the  sugar. 

51.  To  find  the  Specific  Gravity  of  a 
Body  in  Powder  Insoluble  in  Water. 
Introduce  it  into  a  bottle  whose  capacity  is 
known ;  fill  the  bottle  with  pure  water  at  60°. 
It  will  hold  as  much  less  water  as  is  equal  to 
the  bulk  of  the  powder,  and  the  weight  of  the 
powder  in  air  divided  by  this  difference  will 
give  the  specific  gravity.     Thus,  supposing 
the  bottle  to  hold  1000  grains  of  water,  100 
grains  of  emery  are  introduced,  and  the  bottle 
filled  up  with  water.     If  no  water  were  dis- 
placed the  two  should  weigh  1100  grains;  they 
really  weigh  1070 ;  the  difference,  30  grains,  is 
the  weight  of  water  displaced;  100-^-30=3.333, 
specific  gravity  of  the  emery. 

52.  To  Determine  the  Weight  of  a 
Body  from  its  Specific  Gravity.    A  cubic 
foot  of  water  weighs  1000  ounces ;  hence,  to 
determine  the  weight  of  a  given  bulk  of  any 
body  the  specific  gravity  of  which  is  known, 
multiply  the  cubic  content  in  feet  by  1000, 
and  this  by  the  specific  gravity,  and  the  pro- 
duct will  be  the  weight  in  ounces  avoirdupois. 


Thepercent- 

age  of  absolute  alcohol  in  any  spi- 
rituous liquid  may  be  given  either  by  vol- 
ume or  weight,  but  as  liquors  are  sold  by 
measure,  not  weight,  it  is  generally  preferred 
to  know  the  percentage  by  volume.  The 
per  cent,  of  weight  remains  the  same  in  all 
temperatures,  but  the  per  cent,  by  volume 


varies  with  the  temperature  or  heat  of  the 
liquid.  Many  instruments  have  been  intro- 
duced to  determine  the  quantity  of  absolute 
alcohol  contained  in  any  spirituous  liquors, 
and  these  are  known  as  hydrometers,  or  alco- 
holmeters.  Hydrometers  made  by  different 
inventors  have  come  into  use  in  different 
countries;  thus  the  hydrometer  made  by 
Tralles  has  been  adopted  by  the  governments 
of  the  United  States  and  Prussia ;  that  made 
by  Gay  Lussac  has  been  legally  sanctioned  in 
Prance  and  Sweden ;  while  that  invented  by 
Sikes  has  been  approved  and  made  the  excise 
standard  in  Great  Britain. 

54.  Tralles' Hydrometer.  Tralles'  hy- 
drometer is  the  instrument  used  by  our 
government  to  ascertain  the  strength  of  im- 
ported liquors,  and  is  made  of  glass.  Tralles 
has  adopted  as  the  standard  of  comparison 
pure  or  absolute  alcohol  in  volume  at  the 
temperature  of  60°  Fah.,  the  strength  of  which 
he  expresses  by  a  scale  divided  into  100  de- 
grees or  parts,  each  of  which  represents  yj^j 
part  of  alcohol.  When  floated  in  any  spirituous 
liquor  at  a  temperature  of  60°  Fah.,  it  im- 
mediately indicates  the  strength.  For  in- 
stance, if  in  a  brandy  at  that  temperature  it 
sinks  to  65,  it  shows  that  65  parts  of  the 
liquor  is  absolute  alcohol,  and  35  parts  water; 
should  it  sink  to  90,  it  indicates  that  the 
liquor  is  90  parts  or  per  cent,  strong,  and  so  on. 

An  increase  of  heat  causes  liquids  to  ex- 
pand in  volume,  and  a  decrease  produces  con- 
traction ;  therefore  spirits  over  the  normal 
temperature  of  60°  Fah.  appear  stronger  than 
they  really  are,  and  below  60°  they  are  really 
stronger  than  they  appear  to  be. 

It  is  therefore  evident  that  the  degrees  of 
percentage  of  this  hydrometer  are  only  cor- 
rect when  the  spirit  under  trial  has  the  nor- 
mal temperature  of  60°  Fah.  "When  the 
temperature  varies  from  60°,  the  percentage 
can  only  be  ascertained  by  a  long  and  tedious 
calculation.  To  avoid  this  Mr.  Tralles  has 
constructed  a  simple  table  by  which  the  real 
percentage  of  alcohol  is  found  in  liquids  of 
different  temperatures  from  the  results  ex- 
hibited by  the  instrument.  (See  No.  55.) 
The  horizontal  line  at  the  top  shows  the 
various  temperatures  given  by  the  thermome- 
ter ;  the  column  of  figures  under  60°  shows 
the  true  percentage  of  strength  at  the  normal 
or  standard  temperature  of  60° ;  the  figures 
under  the  other  degrees  of  temperature  show 
the  observed  or  apparent  degrees  of  strength 
as  indicated  by  the  hydrometers. 

As  an  example  of  the  simple  manner  by 
which  this  table  may  be  used,  we  will  suppose 
that  the  temperature  of  the  spirits  to  be  tested 
is  at  75°,  Fah.,  and  that  the  hydrometer  sinks 
to  53°  on  the  scale ;  this  would  be  the  observed 
or  apparent  degree  or  percentage  of  strength. 
jSTow  to  find  the  real  percentage  of  strength 
at  60°,  we  turn  to  the  table  and  find  the  up- 
right or  vertical  column  of  figures  headed 
75°,  we  then  run  down  the  figures  until  we 
arrive  at  53.0 ;  having  ascertained  this,  we 
then  trace  the  horizontal  line  to  the  left  or 
right  to  the  outside  column  headed  60°,  and 
at  the  point  when  the  horizontal  line  running 
from  53.0  meets  the  column  headed  60°,  will 
be  found  the  number  50.  We  thus  ascertain 
that  a  spirit  at  75°  having  an  observed  strength 
of  53  has  only  a  real  percentage  of  50  at  the 


24: 


ALCOHOLMETR  T. 


normal  or  established  temperature  of  CO0. 
Suppose  that  another  sample  of  brandy,  in- 
stead of  being  at  75°  is  at  50°,  and  the  instru- 
ment still  sinks  to  53.  In  the  same  way  we 
select  the  column  headed  50°,  and  run  down 
the  figures  until  we  find  53.0,  then  by  tracing 
the  horizontal  line  until  we  arrive  at  the  out- 
eide  column  headed  60°  (either  the  first  or 
last  column),  we  find  the  number  55,  which  is 


the  true  percentage  of  the  brandy  at  60°  Fah. 

Again,  if  an  alcoholic  liquid  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  30°  be  found  to  contain  23.5  per  cent, 
by  volume,  by  reference  to  the  table  30  will 
be  found  to  express  its  actual  strength  at  60° 
Pah. 

"We  might  multiply  examples,  but  the  above 
are  sufficient  to  show  the  manner  by  which 
the  table  may  be  worked. 


65.  Table  to  find  the  true  percentage  of  Absolute  Alcohol  by  volume  in  a  liquid 
at  60°  from  tJie  observed  percentage  indicated  by  a  Glass  Hydrometer  at  any  oilier 
temperature. 


60° 

30° 

35° 

40° 

45° 

50° 

55C 

65° 

70° 

75° 

80° 

85° 

60° 

0 

—0.2 

—0.4 

—0.4 

—0.5 

—0.4 

—0.2 

+0.2 

+0.6 

+1.0 

+1.4 

+1.9 

0 

5 

+4.6 

+4.5 

+4.5 

+4.5 

+4.6 

+4.8 

5.3 

5.8 

6.2 

6.7 

7.3 

5 

10 

9.1 

9.0 

9.1 

9.2 

9.3 

9.7 

10.4 

11.0 

11.6 

12.3 

13.0 

10 

•15 

13.0 

13.1 

13.3 

13.5 

13.9 

14.5 

15.6 

16.3 

17.1 

18.0 

19.0 

15 

20 

16.5 

16.9 

17.4 

17-8 

18.5 

19.2 

20.8 

21.8 

22.8 

23.8 

24.9 

20 

25 

19.9 

20.6 

21.4 

22.2 

23.0 

24.1 

25.9 

27.0 

28.2 

29.4 

30.5 

25 

30 

23.5 

24.5 

25.7 

26.6 

27.7 

28.8 

31.1 

32.2 

33.4 

34.5 

35.7 

30 

35 

28.0 

29.2 

30.4 

31.6 

32.7 

33.8 

36.2 

37.3 

38.4 

39.5 

40.6 

35 

40 

33.0 

34.2 

35.4 

36.7 

37.8 

39.0 

41.1 

42.2 

43.3 

44.3 

45.4 

40 

45 

38.4 

39.6 

40.7 

41.8 

42.9 

43.9 

46.1 

47.1 

48.2 

49.2 

50.3 

45 

50 

43.7 

44.7 

45.8 

46.9 

47.9 

49.0 

51.0 

52.0 

53.0 

54.0 

55.1 

50 

55 

49.0 

50.0 

51.0 

52.0 

53.0 

54.0 

54.9 

56.9 

57.9 

58.9 

59.9 

55 

60 

54.2 

55.2 

56.2 

57.1 

58.1 

59.0 

60.9 

61.9 

62.9 

63.8 

64.9 

60 

65 

59.4 

60.3 

61.2 

62.2 

63.1 

64.0 

65.9 

66.8 

67.7 

68.6 

69.6 

65 

70 

64.6 

65.5 

66.4 

67.3 

68.2 

69.1 

70.8 

71.7 

72.6 

73.5 

74.5 

70 

75 

69.8 

70.7 

71.5 

72.4 

73.3 

74.2 

75.8 

76.7 

77.6 

78.4 

79.3 

75 

80 

75.0 

75.8 

76.6 

77.5 

78.4 

79.2 

80.8 

81.7 

82.4 

83.2 

84.1 

80 

85 

80.3 

81.1 

81.8 

82-6 

83.5 

84.3 

85.7 

86.5 

87.3 

88.0 

88.8 

85 

90 

85.6 

86.4 

87.1 

87.9 

88.6 

89.3 

90.7 

91.4 

92.0 

92.7 

93.4 

90 

The  following  table  gives  the  richness  or 
the  per  cent,  of  alcohol  by  volume,  in  reference 
to  the  volume  of  the  liquid  at  the  temperature 


when  tested ;  it  therefore  requires  '  that  the 
liquor  should  be  tested  exactly  at  the  came 
temperature  at  which  it  was  measured. 


66.  Table  to  find  the  true  percentage  of  Absolute  Alcohol  in  a  liquid  of  any 
temperature  from  the  observed  percentage  indicated  by  the  Glass  Hydrometer  at  the 
same  temperature. 


True  per  ct. 
of  Alcohol 
by  Volume. 

Observed  per  cent  indicated  by  the  Glass  Hydrometer. 

30° 

35° 

40° 

45° 

50° 

55° 

65° 

70° 

75° 

80° 

85° 

0 

—0.2 

—0.4 

—0.4 

—0.5 

—0.4 

—0.2 

+0.2 

+0.6 

+1.0 

+1.4 

+1.9 

5 

+4.6 

+4.5 

+4.5 

+4.5 

+4.6 

+4.8 

5.3 

5.8 

6.2 

6.7 

7.3 

10 

9.1 

9.0 

9.1 

9.2 

9.3 

9.7 

10.4 

11.0 

11.6 

12.3 

13.0 

15 

13.0 

13.1 

13.3 

13.6 

14.1 

14.5 

15.6 

16.3 

17.1 

18.0 

19.0 

20 

16.5 

16.9 

17.4 

17.9 

18.5 

19.2 

20.8 

21.8 

22.9 

23.9 

25.0 

25 

19.8 

20.5 

21.3 

22.2 

23.0 

24.1 

25.9 

27.1 

28.3 

29.5 

30.7 

30 

23.3 

24.3 

25.5 

26.5 

27.6 

28.8 

31.2 

32.3 

33.5 

34.6 

35.9 

35 

27.7 

28.9 

30.2 

31.4 

32.6 

33.8 

36.3 

37.5 

38.6 

39.7 

40.9 

40 

32.5 

33.8 

35.1 

36.5 

37.7 

38.9 

•41.2 

42.4 

43.5 

44.6 

45.8 

45 

37.8 

39.1 

40.3 

41.5 

42.7 

43.8 

46.2 

47.3 

48.5 

49.6 

50.8 

50 

43.1 

44.2 

45.4 

46.6 

47.7 

48.9 

51.1 

52.2 

53.4 

54.5 

55.6 

55 

48.3 

49.4 

50.5 

51.6 

52.8 

53.9 

56.1 

57.2 

58.3 

59.4 

60.5 

60 

53.4 

54.5 

55.6 

56.7 

57.8 

58.9 

61.1 

62.2 

63.3 

64.4 

65.5 

65 

58.4 

59.5 

60.6 

61.7 

62.8 

63.9 

66.0 

67.1 

68.2 

69.3 

70.4 

70 

63.5 

64.6 

65.7 

66.8 

67.9 

69.0 

71.0 

72.1 

73.2 

74.3 

75.4 

75 

68.6 

69.7 

70.7 

71.8 

72-9 

74.0 

76.0 

77.1 

78.2 

79.2 

80.3 

80 

73.7 

74.8 

75.8 

76.9 

78.0 

79.0 

81.0 

82.1 

83.1 

84.1 

85.2 

85 

78.8 

79.8 

80.9 

81.9 

83.0 

84.0 

86.0 

87.0 

88.0 

89.0 

90.0 

90 

84.0 

85.1 

86.1 

87.1 

88.1 

89.1 

91.0 

91.9 

92.8 

93.7  j    94.6 

ALCOHOLMETRY. 


Thus,  if  the  Hydrometer  indicated  59.4  per  j 
cent,  in  a  liquid  at  80°  Fah.,  the  table  in  No. 
57  would  give  its  true  percentage  (richness) 
to  55  per  cent.;  that  is,  100  volumes  of  the 
liquid  at  80°  contains  55  volumes  of  alcohol. 
Tralles'  Hydrometer  gives  the  per  cent,  by 
volume  only.  If  it  be  desired  to  know  the 
per  cent,  by  weight,  it  may  be  ascertained 
from  the  percentage  in  volume  of  the  liquid 
at  60°  Fah.  by  table  in  No.  57. 

57.  Table  of  Comparison  between  the 
per  cent,  of  Alcohol  by  volume  at  60°  (Trailed) 
and  per  cent,  by  weight. 


Pe 
by 
Vol 

rCent. 
by 

Weight. 

ft 

h» 

Vol 

r  Cent, 
by 
Weight. 

Per 

by 

Weight. 

Cunt, 
by 
Volume. 

Per 
by 
Weight. 

Sent, 
by 
Volume. 

0 

0. 

55 

47.29 

0 

0. 

55 

63.97 

5 

4.00 

GO 

52.20 

5 

6.25 

60 

68.97 

10 

8.05 

65 

57.25 

10 

12.42 

65 

73.79 

15 

12.15 

70 

62.51 

15 

18.52 

70 

78.40 

20 

16.28 

75 

67.93 

20 

24.57 

75 

82.80 

25 

20.46 

80 

73.59 

25 

30.55 

80 

86.97 

30 

24.69 

85    79.50 

30 

36.45 

85 

90.88 

35 

28.99 

90i  85.75 

35 

42.25 

90 

94.46 

40 

33.39 

95 

92.40 

40> 

47.92 

95 

97.61 

45 

37.90 

100100.00 

45 

53.43 

100 

100.00 

50 

42.52 

50 

58,79 

58.  Gendar's  Hydrometer.  Annexed 
we  give  a  comparative  view  of  the  scales  of 
Tralles  and  Gendar,  the  former  used  by  the 
revenue  officers  of  the  United  States  for  im- 
ported liquors,  and  indicating  the  per  cent, 
by  volume  of  alcohol  in  spirituous  liquors, 
and  the  latter  used  throughout  the  whole 
country  for  domestic  liquors,  determining  the 
percent,  above  and  below  proof. 

This  is  inserted  for  the  convenient  compar- 
ison of  the  American  standards.  Tables  of 
other  areometers  reduced  to  specific  gravity 
will  be  found  in  Nos.  (i!55,  &c. 

The  first  column  of  the  table  exhibits  the 
specific  gravities  at  60°  Fah.,  for.  mixtures  of 
pure  alcohol  and  water ; — taking  water  at  the 
temperature  of  its  greatest  density,  about 
39.5°  Fah.,  as  1.0000,  and,  therefore,  having 
at  60°  Fah.  a  specific  gravity  of  0.9991.  Of 
the  above  mixtures,  each  100  gallons  or  mea- 
sures contain  the  number  of  gallons  or  mea- 
sures of  alcohol  indicated  in  the  second  col- 
umn (Tralles'  hydrometer  scale)  if  measured 
atGO°  Fah. 

In  the  Tralles'  hydrometer  scale  there  is  no 
reference  to  proof  of  any  denomination ;  and 
in  that  of  Gendar's  there  is  but  one  proof, 
marked  P.  on  the  hydrometer;  the  others, 
such  as  2d,  3d  and  4th  proofs,  were,  at  all 
times,  incorrect  and  deceptive.  The  National 
Tax  Law,  of  August  1st,  1862,  says  that "  the 
term  proof  shall  be  construed,  and  is  hereby 
declared  to  mean  that  proof  of  a  liquor  which 
corresponds  to  50  degrees  of  Tralles'  hydrom- 
eter at  the  temperature  of  GO  degrees  Fah." 
Proof  spirit  is,  therefore,  by  law,  of  the  alco- 
holic strength  of  50  per  cent,  by  volume,  hav- 
ing a  specific  gravity  of  0.9335,  or  a  mixture 
of  equal  quantities  of  absolute  alcohol  at  the 
specific  gravity  of  0.793,  and  distilled  water 
at  60°  Fah.  In  other  words,  proof  spirit  is 
one-half  pure  water  and  half  absolute  alco- 
hol. 

To  ascertain  what  strength  any  liquor  above 
proof  by  the  Gendar  hydrometer  would  be  by 
the  Tralles  hydrometer,  add  100  to  the  given 
proof  if  above  proof,  or  deduct,  if  below  proof, 
from  100  on  the  Gendar  scale,  and  divide 


I HH  tdorkyS.    Sayaliquorisat 

§g!40  above  P.  on  the 
!  Gendar  scale.you  then 
add  100,  making  140, 
and  divide  by2,  which 
will  show  70  on  the 
Tralles'  scale.  If  below 
P.  deduct  the  proof 
from  100  and  divide 
the  remainder  by  2. 
Say  a  liquor  is  35*  be- 
low P.,  consequently 
you  have  a  remainder 
of  65,  and  divide  the 
65  by  2,  which  will 
show  32i  on  Tralles' 
scale.  Having  ascer- 
tained the  degree  of 
strength  of  any  liquor 
by  volume  on  Tralles' 
scale  above  £0  (which 
is  proof),  multiply  the 
degrees  by  2,  and  cut 
off  the  two  right  hand 
figures,  and  it  will 
show  the  degrees 
above  proof  on  Gen- 
dar's scale.  Thus  we 
will  suppose  the  spirit 
to  show  70  per  cent, 
strength  on  Tralles' 
scale.  "We  therefore 
multiply  70  by  2, 
which  gives  us  140; 
we  no  w  cut  off  the  two 
right  hand  figures, 
thus,  1.40,  and  find 
that  the  liquor  is  40 
above  proof  on  Gen- 
dar's scale. 

uor 

Tralles' 

scale  (which  is  below 
proof).  To  find  what 
degree  it  is  below  on 
Gendar's  scale,  multi- 
ply the  degrees  on 
Tralles'  scale  by  2  and 
add  a  number  suffi- 
cient to  make  100;  the 
number  required  to  be 
added  will  show  the 
degree  below  proof. 

59.  Tralles' Table 
of  Percentage  of 
Alcohol.  "When  the  temperature  of  tho 
spirit  is  60°  Fah.,  the  first  column  of  tho 
table  on  page  26  gives  at  once  the  percent- 
age of  alcohol  by  measure;  when  the  tem- 
perature is  below  60°  an  addition  must  be 
made  of  1  measure  per  cent,  for  every  5 
degrees  of  the  thermometer ;  and  when  aboyo 
GO0  a  like  quantity  must  be  deducted.  This 
correction  will  amount  to  the  fraction  £  or 
the  decimal  2  for  every  single  degree,  and  is 
very  easily  made.  If  the  specific  gravity 
sought  cannot  be  found  exactly  in  the  table, 
the  difference  between  it  and  the  next  greater 
specific  gravity  in  tho  table  must  be  taken, 
which  will  give  tho  numerator  of  a  fraction, 
having  for  its  denominator  the  number  found 
in  the  third  column  against  the  next  greater 
number  just  employ^.  This  fraction,  added 
to  the  percentage  of  alcohol  in  the  first 


p  0   > 

*•& 
3$ 

0.7939 
8157 
8332 
8488 
8631 
8765 
8892 
9013 
9126 
9234 
9335 
9427 
9510 
9583 
9646 
9700 
9751 
9802 
9857 
9919 
0.9991 

R:£ 
Is- 

II 

H  T. 

•  CO 

95  — 

— 

~~  90 

-  80 
~  70 
—  60 

85  - 
80  — 

75  - 
70  — 

-  50 
—  40 

60  - 

-  20 

— 

55  — 

— 

-  10 

—  ' 

50—' 

=3 

-  P 

z= 

45  — 

=^, 

-  10 

— 

35  - 

30—  ' 
25  — 
20  — 

— 

-  30 
-  40 

-  50 
- 
-  60 

— 

~ 

— 

— 

— 

— 

— 

— 

— 

— 

— 

—  1 

— 

— 

— 

= 

10  — 

= 

-  80 

— 

o  J 

—  ' 

-  100 

zzz 

Or  suppose  a  liqu 
isbelow£0  on  Trail 


ALCOHOLMETRT. 


column  of  the  table  against  the  said  specific 
gravity,  -will  give  the  true  percentage  sought. 
Thus,  if*the  specific  gravity  of  a  spirituous 
liquor  is  .9605,  what  is  its  alcoholic  content  ? 
Here  .9605  is  not  in  the  table,  but  the  next 
greater  number  is  .9609;  the  former  must 
therefore  be  deducted  from  the  latter,  and  the 


difference  (4)  put  as  the  numerator  of  the 
fraction,  having  for  its  denominator  the  num- 
ber (13)  in  the  column  of  differences  against 
.9609.  The  fraction  -^  so  found,  added  to 
the  percentage  against  .9609  in  the  first 
column,  gives  33-j%  as  the  true  percentage  of 
alcohol  in  the  given  sample 


Tralles'  Table  exhibiting  the  percentage,  by  volume,  of  Alcohol,  corresponding  to  any  given 

specific  gravity. 


Alcohol  in 
100 
Measures 
of  Spirit. 

Specific 
Gravity  at 
60°  F. 

Difference 
of 
Specific 
Gravity. 

Alcohol  in 
100 
Measures 
of  Spirit. 

Specific 
Gravity  at 
60°  F. 

Difference 
of 
Specific 
Gravity. 

Alcohol  in 
100 
Measures 
of  Spirit. 

Specific 
Gravity  at 
60°  F. 

Difference 
of 
Specific 
Gravity. 

Pure  water 

.9919 

00 

34 

.9596 

13 

68 

.8941 

24 

1 

.9976 

15 

35 

.9583 

13 

69 

.8917 

24 

2 

.9961 

15 

36 

.9570 

13 

70 

.8892 

25 

3 

.9947 

14 

37 

.9556 

14 

71 

.8867 

25 

4 

.9933 

14 

38 

.9541 

15 

72 

.8842 

25 

5 

.9919 

14 

39 

-9526 

15 

73 

.8817 

25 

6 

.9906 

13 

40 

.9510 

16 

74 

.8791 

26 

7 

.9893 

13 

41 

.9494 

16 

75 

.8765 

26 

8 

.9881 

12 

42 

-9478 

16 

76 

.8739 

26 

9 

.9869 

12 

43 

.9461 

17 

77 

.8712 

27 

10 

.9857 

12 

44 

-9444 

17 

78 

.8685 

27 

11 

-9845 

12 

45 

.9427 

17 

79 

.8658 

27 

12 

.9834 

11 

46 

.9409 

18 

80 

.8631 

27 

13 

.9823 

11 

47 

-9391 

18 

81 

.8603 

28 

14 

.9812 

11 

48 

-9373 

18 

82 

.8575 

28 

15 

.9802 

10 

49 

-9354 

19 

83 

.8547 

28 

16 

.9791 

11 

50 

.9335 

19 

84 

.8518 

29 

17 

.9781 

10 

51 

-9315 

20 

85 

.8488 

30 

18 

.9771 

10 

52 

-9295 

20 

86 

.8458 

£0 

19 

.9761 

10 

53 

-9275 

20 

87 

.8428 

30 

20 

.9751 

10 

54 

.9254 

21 

88 

.8397 

31 

21 

.9741 

10 

55 

-9234 

20 

89 

.8365 

32 

22 

.9731 

10 

56 

-9213 

21 

90 

.8332 

33 

23 

.9720 

11 

57 

-9192 

21 

91 

.8299 

33 

24 

.9710 

10 

58 

.9170 

22 

92 

.8265 

34 

25 

.9700 

10 

59 

-9148 

22 

93 

.8230 

35 

26 

.9689 

11 

60 

.9126 

22 

94 

.8194 

36 

27 

.9679 

10 

61 

.9104 

22 

95 

.8157 

37 

28 

.9668 

11 

62 

.9082 

22 

96 

.8118 

39 

29 

.9657 

11 

63 

-9059 

23 

97 

.8077 

41 

30 

.9646 

11 

64 

.9036 

23 

98 

.8034 

43 

31 

.9634 

12 

65 

.9013 

23 

99 

.7988 

46 

32 
33 

.9622 
.9609 

12 
13 

66 
67 

.8989 
.8965 

24 

24 

Pure    ) 
Alcohol  ( 

.7939 

49 

60.  Table  for  reducing  the  strength. 
of  Alcohol.  The  following  Table  given  by 
Booth,  shows  the  quantity  of  water  that  must 
be  added  to  alcohol  of  a  given  strength,  in  order 
to  produce  an  alcohol  of  inferior  strength. 

The  upper  horizontal  column  contains  the 


percentage  of  strength  of  the  stronger  alco- 
hol to  be  diluted;  the  vertical  columns 
below,  denote  the  volumes  of  water  which 
must  be  added  to  100  volumes  of  it,  in  order 
to  produce  a  spirit  of  the  strength  indicated 
in  the  left  hand  column. 


Desired 
strength  in 
per  cent. 

90 

85 

80 

75 

70 

65 

60 

55- 

50 

85 

6.56 

80 

13.79 

6.83 

75 

21.89 

14.48 

7.20 

70 

31.05 

23.14 

15.35 

7.64 

65 

41.53 

33.03 

24.66 

16.37 

8.15 

60 

53.65 

44.48 

35.44 

26.47 

17.58 

8.56 

55 

67.87 

57.90 

48.07 

38.32 

28.63 

19.02 

9.47 

50 

84.71 

73.90 

63.04 

52.43 

41.73 

31.25 

20.47 

10.35 

45 

105.34 

93.30 

81.38 

69.54 

57.78 

46.09 

34.46 

22.90 

11.41 

40 

130.80 

117.34 

104.01 

90.76 

77.58 

64.48 

51.43 

38.46 

25.55 

35 

163.28 

148.01 

132.88 

117.82 

102.84 

87.93 

73.08 

58.31 

43.59 

30 

203.22 

188.57 

171.05 

153.61 

136.04 

118.94 

101.71 

84.54 

67.45 

25 

266.12 

245-15 

224.30 

203.53 

182.83 

162.21 

141.65 

121.16 

100.73 

20 

355.80 

329.84 

304.01 

278.26 

252.58 

226.98 

201.43 

175.96 

1C0.55 

15 

505.27 

471. 

436.85 

402.81 

368.83 

334.91 

301.07 

267.29 

233.64 

10 

804.54 

753.65 

702.89 

752.21 

601.60 

551.06 

500.59 

450.19 

399.85 

ALCOHOLMETR  Y. 


Illustration.  If  we  have  alcohol  of  70  per 
cent,  strength,  and  desire  to  reduce  its 
strength  to  40  per  cent. — we  look  for  40  in 
the  left-hand  column,  and  the  figures  on  a 
line  with  it  in  the  column  headed  70,  we  find 
to  be  77.58.  This  shows  that  we  must  add 
77.58,  or  a  trifle  over  77-J-  gallons  of  water  to 
100  gallons  of  our  70  per  cent,  alcohol,  to  pro- 
duce a  spirit  of  40  per  cent,  strength. 

61 .  Baume's  Hydrometer  for  Liquids 
Lighter  than  Water.     In  Baume's  hydrom- 
eter for  liquids  lighter  than  water,  the  instru- 
ment is  poised,  so  that  the  0  of  the  scale  is  at 
the  bottom  of  the  stem,  when  it  is  floating  in  a 
solution  of  1  ounce  common  salt  in  9  ounces  wa- 
ter, and  the  depth  to  which  it  sinks  in  distilled 
water  shows  the  10th  degree;  the  space  be- 
tween these  fixed  points  being  equally  divided. 

62.  Table  showing  the  Specific  Grav- 
ity corresponding  with  the  several  degrees  of 


materials.  This  variety  of  Baum6's  hydrom- 
eter is  usually  called  a  saccharomater,  and 
whenplungedin  pure  water  at58°  Fahr.,  marks 
0  upon  its  scale;  in  a  solution  containing  15 
per  cent,  of  common  salt  and  85  of  water  by 
weight,  it  marks  15°;  so  that  each  degree  on 
the  scale  is  meant  to  indicate  a  density  cor- 
responding to  the  percentage  of  the  salt. 

The  temperature  at  which  Baume's  hydrom- 
eter was  originally  adjusted  was  54£°  Fahr.; 
it  is  now  commonly  adjusted  to  58°  or  60° 
Fahr.;  hence  arise  the  discrepancies  observa- 
ble in  the  published  tables  of  the  "correspond- 
ence between  degrees  of  Baume's  and  real 
specific  gravities." 

65.  Table  showing  the  Specific  Grav- 
ity corresponding  with  the  several  degrees  of 
Baume's  Hydrometer  for  liquids  heavier  than 
ivater. 


Baume's  Hydrometer  for  liquids  lighter  than 

Degrees  of 

Specific 

Degrees  of 

Specific 

water. 

Baume. 

Gravity. 

Baume. 

Gravity. 

Degrees 

Specific 

Degrees         Specific 

0 

1000 

39 

1372 

Baume 

Gravity. 

Baume      j    Gravity. 

1 

1007 

40 

1384 

60° 

.745 

34° 

.859 

2 
3 

1014 
1022 

41 
42 

1398 
1412 

59 

.749 

33 

.864 

4 

1029 

43 

1426 

58 

.753 

32 

.869 

5 

1036 

44 

1440 

57 

.757 

31 

.874 

6 

1044 

45 

1454 

56 

.760 

30 

.880 

7 

1052 

46 

1470 

55 

.764 

29 

.885 

8 

1060 

47 

1485 

54 

.768 

28 

.890 

9 

1067 

48 

1501 

53 

.773 

27 

.896 

10 

1075 

49 

1516 

52 

.777 

26 

.901 

11 

1083 

50 

1532 

51 

.781 

25 

.907 

12 

1091 

51 

1549 

50 

.785 

24 

.913 

13 

1100 

52 

1566 

49 

.789 

23 

-918 

14 

1108 

53 

1583 

48 

.794 

22 

.924 

15 

1116 

54 

1601 

47 

.798 

21 

.930 

16 

1125 

55 

1618 

46 

.802 

20 

.936 

17 

1134 

56 

1637 

45 

.807 

19 

.942 

18 

1143 

57 

1656 

44 

.811 

18 

.948 

19 

1152 

58 

1676 

43 

.816 

17 

.954 

20 

1161 

59 

1695 

42 

.820 

16 

.960 

21 

1171 

60 

1715 

41 

.825 

15 

.967 

22 

1180 

61 

1736 

40 

.830 

14 

.973 

23 

1190 

62 

1758 

39 

.834 

13 

.980 

24 

1199 

63 

1779 

38 

.839 

12 

.986 

25 

1210 

64 

1801 

37 

.844 

11 

.993 

26 

1221 

65 

1823 

36 

.849 

10 

1.000 

27 

1231 

66 

1847 

35 

.854 

28 

1242 

67 

1872 

63.     Baume's  Hydrometer  for  Liquids 
Heavier  than  Water.     In  the  hydrometer 
for  liquids  heavier  than  water,  the  position  of 
the  fixed  points  is  reversed;  for  the  0  is  at 

29 
30 
31 
32 

1252 
1261 
1275 
1286 

68 
69 
70 
71 

1897 
1921 
1946 
1974 

the  top  of  the  stem,  and  denotes  the  level  to 
which  the  hydrometer  sinks  in  distilled  water: 
the  10th  degree  is  lower  down,  and  shows  the 
level  to  which  it  sinks  in  the  saline  solution, 
and  the  graduation  is  continued  downwards. 

33 
34 
35 
36 
37 

1298 
1309 
1321 
1334 
1346 

72 
73 

74 
75 
76 

2002 
2031 
2059 
2087 
2116 

64.    Baume's  Areometer,  or  Sacchar- 

38 

1359 

ometer  for  Liquids  Heavier  than  Water. 

This  instrument  is  generally  in  use  in  this 

66.     To  Convert  Degrees  Baume  into 

country  and  iu  France,  when  it  is  necessary 
to  ascertain  the  strength  or  density  of  a  li- 

Specific Gravity.     I.  For  liquids    heavier 
than  water.  —  Subtract  the  degree  of  Baume 

quid  heavier  than  water.     In  England,  Twad- 

from  145,  and  divide  into  145;  the  quotient  is 

del's  hydrometer  is  mostly  employed  for  the 
purpose.     Baume's  instrument  is  principally 
used  by  confectioners  to  test  the  density  of 

the  specific  gravity. 
II.  For  liquids  lighter  than  water.  —  Add  the 
degree  of  Baume  to  130,  and  divide  it  into 

syrup;  also  by  brewers  and  distillers  to  dis- 

140; the  quotient  is  the  specific  gravity. 

cover  the  quantity  of  saccharine  matter  in 
wort;  and  by  soap  manufacturers  and  dyers 

67.     To  Convert  Specific  Gravity  into 
Degrees  Baume.      I.  For  liquids  heavier 

to  prove  the  strength  of  their  lyes  and  dyeing 

than  water.  —  Divide  the  specific  gravity  into 

28 


ACETIMETRY. 


145,  and  subtract  from  145;  the  remainder 
is  the  decree  of  Baume. 

II.  For  liquids  lighter  than  water. — Divide 
the  specific  gravity  into  140  and  subtract  130 
from  the  quotient;  the  remainder  will  be  the 
degree  of  Baume. 

68.  Twaddell's  Hydrometer.  This 
Hydrometer  is  much  used  in  the  bleaching 
and  dyeing  establishments  in  Scotland,  and 
some  parts  of  England.  According  to  this 
scale  0  is  equal  to  1000,  or  the  specific  gravity 
of  distilled  water,  and  every  additional  5  de- 
grees of  specific  gravity  adds  1  degree. to 
Twaddell's  scale.  So  that,  in  order  to  find  the 
specific  gravity  corresponding  to  any  degree 
of  Twaddell's  scale,  multiply  the  degree  by 
5  and  a.dd  1000;  thus,  if  this  hydrometer 
shows  30°,  30  multiplied  by  5  gives  150,  and 
1000  added  makes  1150,  the  specific  gravity. 
To  find  the  degree  of  Twaddell  corresponding 
to  any  specific'gravity,  deduct  1000  from  the 
specific  gravity,  and  divide  the  remainder  by 
5;  the  quotient  will  be  the  corresponding  de- 
gree of  Twaddell. 

Thus,  if  it  be  required  to  find  the  degree  of 
Twaddell  corresponding  to  1150  specific  grav- 
ity, deduct  1000  from  1150,  and  divide  the 
remainder,  150,  by  5,  and  the  quotient,  30,  gives 
the  degrees  of  Twaddell  required.  In  this 
way  the  corresponding  degrees  of  Twaddell 
and  Baume  can  easily  be  found.  Thus,  31 
degrees  of  Baum6  are  equivalent  to  a  specific 
gravity  of  1275;  and  this,  according  to  the 
above  rule,  will  give  55  degrees  Twaddell. 
By  reversing  this  process,  Twaddell  can  as 
readily  be  reduced  to  Baume1. 


The  art  of  deter- 
mining  the  strength  of  acetic  acid  and 
vinegar.  Several  methods  are  employed  for 
the  purpose,  based  on — the  quantity  of  acid 
required  for  saturation; — the  specific  grav- 
ity ai'ter  the  liquid  has  been  neutralized  with 
hydrate  of  lime; — and  the  simple  specific 
gravity.  In  all  these  methods,  account  should 
be  taken  of  any  mineral  acid  which  may  have 
been  added,  as  is  common  with  vinegars,  to 
impart  artificial  strength. 

70.  To  find  the  Comparative  Weights 
of   Dry   and  Glacial  Acetic  Acid.    As 
both  dry  and  glacial  (or  hydratcd)  acetic  acid 
are  referred  to  in  many  places,  in  speaking 
of  strengths,  it  may  be  convenient  to  know 
that  51  parts  of  dry  acetic  acid  are  equal  to 
60  parts  of  glacial.    (See  No.  81.)     Hence  the 
weight  of  glacial  acid  multiplied  by  .8512, 
gives  the  weight  of  dry  acid;  and  the  weight 
of  dry  acid,  multiplied  by  1.1748  gives  a  very 
close  approximation  to  the  weight  of  glacial 
acid. 

71.  Precautions  in  Testing  Acids.    It 
is  essential  to  success,  in  testing  acetic  or 
other  acids  by  saturation,  to  hit  the  exact 
point  of  neutralization.  It  will  be  found  greatly 
to  amplify  matters  to  tint  with  litmus  (see  No. 
78)  either  the  sample  under  examination,  or 
the  test  liquid;  but  when  litmus  is  used,  it  is 
advisable  to  apply  a  gentle  heat  to  the  test 
tube  when  saturation  appears  nearly  reached ; 
the  heat  will  expel  from  the  liquor  the  free 
carbonic  acid,  which  itself  has  the  property 
of  reddening  litmus.    A  glass  or  wooden  rod 


should  be  used  for  stirring,  and  the  test  liquid 
added  drop  by  drop. 

72.  To  find  the  strength  of  Acetic 
Acid  by  its  Saturating  Power.    Dissolve 
196£  grains  pure  crystallized  bicarbonate  of 
potassa  in  a  little  water;  add  to  the  solution 
sufficient  water  to  make  up  exactly  1000  min- 
ims, or  the  100  divisions  of  an  acidimeter,  a 
graduated  glass  tube  of  100  divisions,  each 
division  representing  10  minims.  (See  illustra- 
tions, No.  82.)    A  "solution  is  thus  formed, 
which,  when  added  by  degrees  to  100  minims 
of  the  acetic  acid  or  vinegar  under  examina- 
tion, until  the  latter  is    exactly  saturated, 
indicates  the  exact  amount  of  acid  present  in 
the  sample.    Each  minim  of  the  alkaline  solu- 
tion thus  employed  represents  1  per  cent,  of 
dry  acetic  acid.    The  test  liquid  must  be  added 
a  drop  at  a  time  to  avoid  the  risk  of  loss  by 
excessive  effervescence. 

73.  To  find  the  strength  of  strong 
Acetic  Acid.     If  strong  acetic  acid  be  under 
inspection,  it  will  be  found  convenient,  pre- 
viously to  testing  it,  to  dilute  it  with  from  2 
to  8  times  its  weight  of  distilled  water,  ac- 
cording to  its  degree  of  concentration.     Dilute 
acid  and  vinegar  require  no  further  dilution. 

Instead  of  196£  grains  crystallized  bicar- 
bonate of  potassa,  may  be  used  either  135 
grains  dry  (see  No.  12)  carbonate  of  potassa, 
281  grains  crystallized  carbonate  of  soda,  or 
104  grains  dry  carbonate  of  soda.  (See  No. 
80.) 

By  using  98£  grains  (half  the  quantity)  of 
the  bicarbonate  of  potassa,  we  obtain  a 
still  more  delicate  test  liquid;  as  each  minim 
used  for  saturating  a  sample  of  acid  will  rep- 
resent only  •£  of  1  per  cent,  of  dry  acid. 

74.  To  find  the  strength  of  Acetic 
Acid  by  Saturation  without  an  Acidi- 
meter.    The  foregoing  method  can  also  be 
applied  to  test  by  weight,  instead  of  by  an 
acidimeter;  1000  grains  of  the  test  liquid  are 
used  in  testing  100  grains  of  acid.     Every 
grain  of  the  test  liquid  necessary  to  produce 
saturation  indicates  j\,  grain  of  dry  acid,  and 
every  ten  grains  are  equal  to   1  per  cent. 
Schuster's  alkalirneter  is  a  convenient  instru- 
ment for  this  process.     (See  No.  82.)     1000 
grains  of  the  test  liquid  are  introduced  into 
the  alkalimeter,  and  the  whole  weighed;  the 
weight  of  the  bottle  and  solution,  ai'ter  using 
such  portion  of  its  contents  as  is  required  for 
testing,  deducted  from  the  previous  weight  of 
the  whole,  gives  the  exact  quantity  in  grains 
of  the  solution  consumed;  this,  divided  by  10, 
gives  the  percentage  of  acid  in  the  sample 
tested.    This  method  admits  of  great  accuracy. 

75.  Practical  test  of  the  strength  of 
Acetic  Acid.     A  less  accurate,   but   more 
convenient  method  for  practical  purposes,  is 
as  follows: — To  100  or  1000  parts  (or  grains) 
of  a  sample  under  inspection,  add  cautiously 
from  a  weighed  quantity  of  powdered  pure 
dry  bicarbonate  of  potassa,  sufficient  to  pro- 
duce exact  neutralization;  carefully  re-weigh 
the  bicarbonate    unqonsumed.     Double    the 
loss  in  grains  will  indicate  the  percentage  of 
acid  in  the  liquid  tested. 

76.  TTre's  Test  of  the  strength  of  Acet- 
ic Acid.     Ure's  test  gives  very  accurate  re- 
sults, if  the  ammonia  employed  is  of  the 
proper  specific  gravity.     To  100  grains  of  a 
sample,  very  slightly  reddened  with  neutral 


ACIDIMETEY. 


(blue)  tincture  of  litmus,  add  liquor  of  am- 
monia of  specific  gravity  .992  from  an  acidime- 
ter  (see  No.  82)  until  perfect  neutralization  is 
effected,  indicated  by  the  original  blue  color 
of  the  litmus  being  restored.  The  number  of 
acidimetric  divisions  of  ammonia  expended, 
.  multiplied  by  51  (for  dry)  or  by  60  (for  glacial) 
aud  the  product  divided  by  100,  will  give,  re- 
spectively, the  percentage  of  dry  or  glacial 
acid  in  the  sample.  Thus: — if  a  sample  of 
vinegar  takes  10  acidimetric  divisions  of  am- 
monia to  neutralize  it,  then  10  multiplied  by 
51,  and  divided  by  100,  gives  5.10,  equivalent 
to  5,'f,  per  cent,  of  dry  acid: — or,  10  multi- 
plied by  60  and  divided  by  100,  gives  6  per 
cent,  of  glacial  or  hydra  ted  acid  in  the  sample. 
77.  Tire's  Test,  by  Grains,  of  the 
strength  of  Acetic  Acid.  The  same 
strength  of  ammonia  is  to  be  used  in  the 
acidimeter  as  in  the  preceding  test,  and  the 
number  of  grain-measures  of  ammonia  em- 
ployed for  a  multiplier  instead  of  acidimetric 
divisions.  The  only  difference  is,  that  the 
product  in  each  case  must  be  divided  by  1000 
instead  of  100,  to  give  the  percentage  of  acid. 


The   estimation    of 
the  quantity  of  an  acid  contained  in 
any  given  sample. 

The  methods  used  are  founded  chiefly  on 
the  capacity  of  acids  to  saturate  or  neutralize 
alkaline  bases;  and,  in  some  of  the  liquid 
acids,  on  specific  gravity. 

The  accuracy  of  the  tests,  when  satura- 
tion is  resorted  to,  depends  greatly  on  the 
exact  point  of  neutralization,  as  already  re- 
marked under  the  head  of  Acetimetry.  The 
proper  point  is  arrived  at  when  the  liquid,  af- 
ter being  slightly  heated,  ceases  to  redden 
litmus,  or  does  not  alter  the  color  of  turmeric 
paper  (see  Test  Papers)  ;  if  it  turns  the  lat- 
ter brown,  too  much  test-liquid  has  been 
added,  and  the  operation  becomes  useless. 
A  good  method  is  to  tint  either  the  acid  sam- 
ple or  the  test-liquid  with  a  few  drops  of  lit- 
mus (see  No.  71),  when  the  reddish  shade 
will  gradually  deepen  to  purple  as  the  point  of 
saturation  is  approached,  and  the  blue  color 
be  restored  as  soon  as  that  point  is  reached. 

79.  To  test  the  strength  of  an  Acid 
by  Saturation.  Place  in  a  test  tube  100 
grains  of  the  acid  to  bo  examined ;  if  the  acid 
be  liquid,  dilute  it — if  solid,  dissolve  it — in  6 
or  8  times  its  weight  of  distilled  water.  Then 
exactly  neutralize  ii  with  an  alkali  added  drop 
by  drop.  Tho  known  quantity  of  alkali  con- 
sumed for  this  purpose  represents  an  equiv- 
alent quantity  of  the  actual  acid  contained  in 
the  test  tube.  The  common  practice  is  to 
dissolve  1  equivalent  (see  No.  80)  of  an  alka- 
line test  in  water,  and  to  make  up  the  solu- 
tion to  1000  grains  (100  acidimetric  divisions). 
The  equivalent  value  of  the  test-liquid  is  then 
100;  hence,  the  quantity  of  the  sample  tested 
will  bear  the  same  proportion  to  the  equiva- 
lent number  (see  No.  81)  of  the  acid  under  ex- 
amination, that  the  acidimetric  divisions  o: 
the  test-liquid  consumed,  bear  to  the  percent- 
age of  acid  sought.  For  example  :  Suppose 
LOO  grains  of  a  sample  of  sulphuric  acid  re 
quire  60  acidimetric  divisions  (600  grains)  of 
the  test-bquid  to  neutralize  them;  what  is 


the  percentage  of  the  acid  T  The  equivalent 
of  dry  sulphuric  acid  is  40  (see  N,o.  81) ; 
•herefore  by  the  rule  of  proportion,  since 
100  :  40  :  :  60  :  24,  the  sample  contains  24  per 

ent.  of  dry  sulphuric  acid. 
In  this  method  the  choice  of  the  re-agent 
must  depend  on  the  operator.    Some  prefer 
;he  ammonia  test  (see  No.  76),  which  is  very 

:onvenient  and  easily  applied ;  others  give  a 
^reference  to  bicarbonates  or  carbonates  of  po- 
;assa  or  soda.  Whichever  be  adopted,  it  must 
je  perfectly  pure.  A  test  solution,  once  care- 
ully  prepared  of  the  proper  strength,  may  bo 
iept  unharmed  for  any  length  of  time  in  a 
stoppered  bottle,  and  will  be  always  ready  for 
application. 

80.  Table  of  Equivalents  of  Alkalis, 

GRAINS. 
Pure  ammonia 17 

Dry  carbonate  of  soda 53 

Crystallized  carbonate  of  soda 143 

Crystallized  bicarbonate  of  soda. .  84 

Dry  carbonate  of  potassa 69 

Crystallized  carbonate  of  potassa.  87 
Crystallized  bicarbonate  of  potassa  100 

Pure  or  caustic  soda 31 

Pure  or  caustic  potash 47 

Sesquicarbonate  of  soda 85 

Neutral  carbonate  of  ammonia..  43£ 

Sesquicarbonate  of  ammonia 59 

Bicarbonate  of  ammonia 79 

1000  grain  measures  of  pure  water  of  am- 
monia of  specific  gravity  .992,  contain  17 
grains  or  1  equivalent  of  pure  gaseous  ammo- 
nia. 

It  is  understood  that  all  crystals  must  be 
perfectly  free  from  attached  water,  but  not  in 
the  least  effloresced. 

81.  Table  of  Equivalents  of  Acids. 
This  table  is  based  on  the  foregoing  table  of 
alkalis;  so  that,  for  instance,  1  equivalent  (17 
grains)  of  pure  ammonia  will  exactly  neutral- 
ize 1  equivalent  (22  grains)  dry  carbonic  acid, 
&c. 

CHAINS. 

Anhydrous  acetic  acid 51 

Hyd  rated  or  crystallized  acetic  acid...  60 

Dry  benzoic  acid 113 

Crystallized  benzoic  acid 122 

Dry  boracic  acid 35 

Crystallized  boracic  acid 62 

Dry  carbonic  acid 22 

Dry  citric  acid 58 

Crystallized  citric  acid 67 

Dry  hydrochloric  acid 36^ 

Liquid  hydrochloric  acid  (sp.gr.1.16) . .  109 

Dry  malic  acid 58 

Dry  nitric  acid 54 

Liquid  nitric  acid  (sp.  gr.  1.5) 67 

"          "        "      (sp.  gr.1.42) 90 

Dry  oxalic  acid 36 

Crystallized  oxalic  acid 63 

Dry  sulphuric  acid 40 

Liquid  sulphuric  acid  (sp.  gr.  1.845.. .  49 

Dry  tartaric  acid 66 

Crystallized  tartaric  acid 75 

82.  Acidimeter.     An  acidimeter   is   a 
glass  tube,    graduated    with    100    divisions, 
each  division  representing  10  grains  of  dis- 
tilled water,  termed  grain  measures.     The 
acidimeter  is  used  for  testing  acids  and  alka- 
lis, and  is  usually  furnished  with  a  lip  for  con- 
venience in  pouring  by  drops.    Where  great 
delicacy  is  required  in  pouring  or  dropping, 


3O 


AL'KALIMETRY.  —  THE  THERMOMETER. 


various  appliances  are  resorted  to,  by  which 
the  outward  flow  can  be  instantly  arrested, 
merely  by  placing  the  finger  or  thumb  on  an 
orifice  arranged  for  the  ingress  of  air.  In  the 
illustrations,  c  denotes  the  place  of  egress  for 


Fig.  1.      Fig.  2.  Fig.  3.          Fig.  4. 

the  contained  liquid ;  b,  the  orifice  for  the  in- 
gress of  air,  to  be  stopped  by  the  finger  or 
thumb ;  in  Fig.  2,  both  orifices  are  in  a  hol- 
low movable  stopper;  in  Fig.  4,  the  air-hole 
only  is  in  the  stopper,  a. 

Fig.  1  represents  Gay  Lussac's  Pouret. 

Fig.  2,  Normandy's  modification  of  Schus- 
ter's Alkalimeter. 

Fig.  3,  Birck's  Alkalimeter. 

Fig.  4  is  a  simple  acidimeter,  with  a  stop- 
per fitted  to  it,  having  a  groove  to  correspond 
with  the  lip,  and  a  vent-hole  drilled  through 
it  to  admit  the  ah-. 

These  modifications  of  the  simple  acidime- 
ter are  employed  to  allow  of  the  test-liquid  be- 
ing added  a  single  drop  at  a  time,  which  is 
absolutely  necessary  during  the  first  part  of 
the  process,  to  prevent  undue  effervescence, 
and  consequent  danger  of  loss  of  the  liquid ; 
and  in  the  latter  part  it  is  equally  indispensa- 
ble in  order  to  attain  exact  saturation.  They 
dispense  with  the  use  of  a  separate  pipette, 
being,  in  fact,  acidimeters  and  pipettes  com- 
bined. 


Alkalimetry. 

_/~\_  estimating  the  sti 


The  method  of 
strength  of  alkalis.  The 
processes  used  are  the  same  as  in  acidimetry; 
only  that  the  unknown  quantity  sought  is  an 
alkali,  and  the  test  applied  is  an  acid.  The 
test  acid  is  1  equivalent  (40  grains,  see  No. 
81)  of  sulphuric  acid  sp.  gr.  1.032  at  60°  Fahr. 
inserted  in  an  acidimeter  (see  No.  82)  and 
made  up  with  distilled  water  to  100  acidimetric 
divisions. 

84.  To  find  the  strength  of  an  Alkali. 
Place  100  grains  of  the  alkali  in  a  tube,  and 
agitate  it  with  about  £  ounce  hot  water. 
When  settled,  pour  off'  the  clear  into  a  vessel 
for  trial,  liepeat  this  process  until  nothing 
soluble  remains  in  the  test  tube,  shown  by 
the  last  washing  not  affecting  the  color  of 
turmeric  paper.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to 
waste  the  smallest  portion  of  the  liquid,  as  it 
would  render  the  results  inaccurate. 


Next,  exactly  neutralize  the  alkaline  solution 
by  adding  sufficient  of  the  test  acid  drop  by 
drop.  If  the  saturation  is  complete,  it  will 
neither  turn  litmus  paper  red,  nor  turmeric 
paper  brown.  (Sec  No.  78.)  The  weight  of 
alkali  tested,  bears  the  same  relation  to  its 
equivalent  weight  (see  No.  80),  that  the  acidi- 
metric divisions  of  acid  used,  do  to  the  percent- 
age of  alkali  sought. 

Thus: — If  we  test  100  grains  of  potash  and 
find  it  requires  35  acidimetric  divisions  of  test 
acid  to  saturate  it,  wo  refer  to  table  No.  80, 
and  find  that  the  equivalent  of  pure  potash 
is  47  grains.  Then  100  :  47  : :  35  : 16.45. 

That  is,  the  sample  of  potash  under  exam- 
ination contains  nearly  16-J-  per  cent,  of  pure 
potash.  (See  No.  587") 


The  Thermometer,  in 
Fahrenheit's  Thermometer,  which  is 
universally  employed  in  this  country  and 
Great  Britain,  the.  freezing  point  of  water  is 
placed  at  32°,  and  the  boiling  point  at  212° 
and  the  number  of  intervening  degrees  is  180. 

The  Centigrade  thermometer,  which  has 
long  been  used  in  Sweden  under  the  name 
of  Celsius'  thermometer,  and  is  now  employed 
on  the  continent  of  Europe  generally,  marks 
the  freezing  point  at  Zero  or  0°,  and  the  boil- 
ing point  at  100°. 

In  Reaumur's  thermometer,  used  in  France 
before  the  revolution,  the  freezing  point  is 
Zero,  and  the  boiling  point  80°. 

Degrees  below  zero  are  distinguished  by 
prefixing  the  minus  sign,  thus — ;  so  that 
— 17°  Fahr.  represent  a  temperature  of  17C 
lower  than  zero,  equivalent  to  49  degrees 
below  freezing  point. 

86.  To    Convert    degrees    of   Centi- 
grade into  degrees  of  Fahrenheit.    Mul- 
tiply the  degrees  of  Centigrade  by  9,  and  di- 
vide the  result  by  5: — then  add  32. 

Thus:  to  find  the  degrees  of  Fahrenheit 
equivalent  to  30  degrees  of  Centigrade. 

30  degrees  Centigrade. 
Multiplied  by    9 

Divided  by  5)270 

54 
Add  32 

Answer,  86  degrees  Fahrenheit. 

87.  To  reduce  degrees  of  Fahrenheit 
to  the  corresponding  degrees  of  Centi- 
grade.    Reverse    the    above   process — First 
deduct  32  from  the  degrees  of  Fahrenheit, 
then  multiply  the  difference  by  5,  and  lastly 
divide  the  result  by  9. 

Thus,  86  degrees  Fahrenheit. 
Deduct  32 

54 

Multiplied  by    5 

Divided  by  9)270 

Answer.    30  degrees  Centigrade. 


THE    ART    OF   DYEING. 


31 


88.  To  Reduce  degrees  of  Reaumur 
to  the  corresponding  degrees  of  Fahren- 
heit. Multiply  the  degrees  of  Reaumur  by 
9,  divide  the  result  by  4,  end  then  add  32. 

Thus,  24°  Reaumur. 
Multiplied  by    9 

Divided  by  4)216 


Add 


54 
32 


Answer,    86°  Fahrenheit. 

89.  To  reduce  degrees  of  Fahrenheit 
to  corresponding  degrees  of  Reaumur. 

Reverse  the  above  process. 

90.  To  reduce  degrees  of  Reaumur 
to   Centigrade.     Add   to   the   degrees   of 
Reaumur  their  one-fourth  part. 

Thus,  40°  Reaumur. 
Add  one-fourth,  10 

Answer    50°  Centigrade. 

91.  To  reduce  degrees  of  Centigrade 
to  Reaumur.     Deduct  one-fifth  part. 

Thus,  50°  centigrade 
Deduct  one-fifth    10 

Answer,  40°  Reaumur. 

92.  Table  of  corresponding  degrees 
of  Fahrenheit,  Reaumur  and  the  Centi- 
grade. 


Fahrenheit. 

Reaumur. 

Centigrade. 

Boiling. 

212 

80 

100 

203 

76 

95 

194 

72 

90 

185 

68 

85 

176 

64 

80 

167 

60 

75 

158 

56 

70 

149 

52 

65 

140 

48 

60 

131 

44 

55 

122 

40 

50 

113 

36 

45 

104 

32 

40 

95 

28 

35 

86 

24 

30 

77 

20 

25 

68 

16 

20 

59 

12 

15 

50 

8 

10 

41 

4 

5 

Freezing. 

32 

0 

0 

23 

4 

—   5 

14 

—   8 

—  10 

5 

—  12 

—  15 

—   4 

—  16 

—  20 

—  13 

—  20 

—  25 

—  22 

—  24 

—  30 

—  31 

—  28 

—  35 

—  40 

—  32 

—  40 

All  intermediate  degrees  can  be  obtained 
by  the  preceding  rules. 

The  Art  of  Dyeing.  The 
art  of  fixing  coloring  matters  uniformly 
and  permanently  in  the  fibres  of  wool,  silk, 
linen,  cotton,  and  other  substances.  Dyeing  is 
a  chemical  process,  and  the  mode  of  its  per- 
formance depends  upon  the  substance  opera- 
ted on.  Thus  it  is  found  that  the  process  by 
which  wool  is  dyed  black,  would  only  impart 
a  rusty  browfi  to  linen.  Wool  unites  with 
almost  all  coloring  matters  with  great  facility, 
silk  in  the  next  degree,  cotton  less  easily  than 
silk,  and  linen  with  even  more  difficulty. 
Preparatory  to  the  operation  of  dyeing,  each 
of  these  substances  undergoes  a  species  of 
preparation  to  free  the  fibres  from  adhering 
foreign  matter,  as  dirt,  grease,  <fcc,  which 
would  prevent  the  absorption  of  the  aqueous 
fluid  to  be  afterwards  applied,  as  well  as  im- 
pair the  brilliancy  of  the  dye.  Wool  is  cleaned 
or  scoured  by  means  of  a  weak  alkaline  lye, 
soap  and  water,  or  putrid  urine;  the  latter 
being  very  generally  used  for  this  purpose. 
Silk  is  cleaned  from  the  natural  varnish  that 
covers  it,  by  boiling  with  white  soap  and 
water.  Cotton  and  linen  are  cleaned  with 
alkaline  lyes  of  more  or  less  density.  The 
substances  so  prepared  are  ready  to  undergo 
the  various  operations  of  dyeing. 

Among  the  various  coloring  materials  em- 
ployed by  dyers,  some  impart  their  tints  to 
different  substances  by  simple  immersion  in 
their  infusions  or  decoctions,  and  have  hence 
been  called  "  substantive  colors;"  but  by  far 
the  greater  number  only  impart  a  fugitive 
dye,  unless  the  fibres  of  the  stuff  have  been 
previously  filled  with  some  substance  which 
has  a  strong  affinity  for  the  latter  on  the  one 
hand,  and  the  coloring  material  on  the  other. 
The  substances  applied  with  this  intention  are 
called  "Mordants,"  and  generally  exercise 
the  double  property  of  "fixing"  and  "striking" 
the  color.  Thus,  if  cotton  goods  be  dyed 
with  a  decoction  of  madder,  it  will  only  re- 
ceive a  fugitive  and  dirty  red  tinge,  but  if  it 
be  first  run  through  a  solution  of  acetate  of 
alumina,  dried  at  a  high  temperature,  washed, 
and  then  run  through  a  madder  bath,  it 
will  come  out  a  permanent  and  lively  red. 
The  principal  mordants  are  the  acetates  of 
iron  and  alumina,  sulphate  of  iron,  alum,  and 
some  other  chemical  salts.  A  perfect  know- 
ledge of  the  effect  of  mordants  on  different 
coloring  substances  is  of  paramount  import- 
ance to  the  dyer. 

After  having  received  the  proper  mordants, 
the  goods  are  dried  and  rinsed,  after  which 
they  are  passed  for  a  shorter  or  longer  time 
through  an  infusion,  decoction,  or  solution  of 
the  dyeing  materials,  which  constitute  the 
"  dye-bath";  they  are  again  dried  and  rinsed. 
In  many  cases,  the  immersion  in  the  dye-bath 
is  repeated,  either  with  tfie  same  materials  or 
with  others  to  vary  or  modify  the  color. 
After  the  substances  have  been  properly 
dyed,  they  are  subjected  to  a  thorough  rinsing 
or  washing  in  soft  water,  until  the  latter  runs 
off  uncolored. 

94.  Dye  Woods,  &c.  Decoctions  of 
the  different  woods  are  prepared  for  general 
use  in  the  dye  house  as  they  are  required.  If 
the  wood  be  in  the  chipped  state,  it  must  be 
boiled  for  an  hour,  in  the  proportion  of  1 
pound  of  wood  to  1  gallon  of  water;  a  second 


THE   ART    OF  DYEING. 


boiling  is  generally  given  with  new  wa 
ter,  and  the  liquor  obtained  used  instead  o 
water  with  more  new  wood.  This  second  li 
quor  is  not  good  lor  dyeing  alone,  but  when 
employed  instead  of  water  for  new  wood,  { 
pound  of  new  wood  is  sufficient.  The  secouc 
liquor  may,  however,  be  used  as  an  auxiliary 
in  the  dyeing  of  compound  colors,  such  as 
browns,  drabs  and  fi^wns.  If  the  wood  be 
ground  the  same  quantity  is  taken — namely, 
1  pound  for  each  gallon  of  the  decoction  re- 
quired, and  is  prepared  as  follows: — on  a 
piece  of  coarse  cloth  stretched  upon  a  frame, 
or  laid  into  a  basket,  put  the  ground  wood, 
and  place  it  over  a  vessel,  then  pour  boiling 
water  over  the  wood  until  the  liquor  that  runs 
through  is  nearly  colorless.  Barwood  and 
Camwood  are  always  used  in  the  ground 
state,  the  wood  being  put  into  the  boiler 
along  with  the  goods;  no  dec  actions  of  these 
woods  are  made.  Decoctions  of  bark  and 
weld  are  often  formed  by  putting  them  into  a 
coarse  canvas  bag,  and  then  suspending  it  in 
boiling  water. 

The  coloring  principle  of  archil  is  highly 
soluble  in  hot  water,  and  is  useful  in  combi- 
nation with  other  dyeing  materials;  but  used 
alone,  does  not  impart  a  permanent  color. 

95.  To  prepare  Annotto.     Into  2  gal- 
lons of   water  put   1   pound  of  Annotto,  4 
ounces  of  pearlash,    and  2   ounces  of   soft 
soap,  and  apply  heat,  stirring  until  the  whole 
is  dissolved.    When  convenient  it  is  best  to 
boil  the  solution. 

96.  To  prepare  Catechu.    To  7  or  8  gal- 
lons of  water  put  1  pound  of  catechu,  and 
boil    till    it  is    all    dissolved;     then    add    2 
ounces  of  sulphate  of  copper,  stir,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use.     Nitrate  of  Copper  may  also 
be  used,  taking  1  wine-glassful  of  the  solution 
made  according  to  the  next  receipt. 

97.  To  make  Nitrate  of  Copper  So- 
lution.    To  1  part  by  measure  nitric  acid, 
and  2  parts  water,   add  metallic  copper  so 
long  as  the  acid  will  dissolve  it,  then  bottle 
the  solution  for  use. 

98.  To    make   Sulphate   of  Indigo. 
Into  5  pounds  of  the  most  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid,  stir  ia  by  degrees  1  pound  of  the 
best  indigo,  finely  ground;   expose  this  mix- 
ture to  a  heat  cf  about  160°  Pahr.  for  10  or  12 
hours,  stirring  it  occasionally;  a  little  rubbed 
upon-a  window-pane  should  assume  a  purple- 
blue  color. 

99.  To  make  Indigo  Extract.     This  is 
prepared  by  proceeding  exactly  as  stated  for 
sulphate   of  indigo    and  then  diluted  with 
about  4  gallons  hot  water,'  and  the  whole  put 
upon  a  thick  woolen  filter,  over  a  large  vessel, 
and  hot  water  poured  upon  the  filter,  until  it 
passes  through  nearly  colorless;  the  blackish 
matter  retained  upon  the  filter    is   thrown 
away,  and  the  filtered  solution  is  transferred 
to  a  leaden  vessel,  and  evaporated  to  about  8 
gallons,  to  which  is  added  about  4  pounds 
chloride  of  sodium  (table  salt)  and  well  stir- 
red; the  whole  is  again  put  upon  a  wooden 
filter  and  allowed  to  drain.    The  extract  re- 
mains as  a  thin  pasty  mass  upon  the  filter,  and 
is  ready  for  use. 

100.  To  make  Bed  Liquor.    Into  1 
gallon  hot  water  place  2  pounds  alum;  dis- 
solve, in  a  separate  vessel,  2  pounds  acetate 
cf  lead  in  1  gallon  water;  in  a  third  vessel 


dissolve  £  pound  crystallized  soda;  mix  all 
the  solutions  together  and  stir  well  for  some 
time,  then  allow  to  stand  over  night;  decant 
the  clear  solution  which  is  ready  for  use. 

101.  To  make  Caustic  Potash.     To 
3  gallons  water  add  2  pounds  either  black  or 
pearl  ashes,  and  boil;    when   seething   add 
newly-slaked    lime,   until    a  small   quantity 
taken  out  does  not  effervesce  when  an  acid  is 
added  to  it.    To  test  this,  take  a  tumbler  half 
filled  with  cold  water,  put  a  table-spoonful  of 
the  boiling  lye  into  the  tumbler,  and  add  a 
few  drops  sulphuric  acid;   if  the  acid  were 
added  to  the  hot  lye,  it  would  spurt  up  and 
endanger  the  operator.    When  the  addition 
of  acid  causes  no  effervescence,  the  boiling 
and  adding  of  lime  is  stopped,  and  the  whole 
allowed  to  settle;  then  remove  the  clear  li- 
quid into  a  vessel  having  a  cover,  to  prevent 
it  from  taking  carbonic  acid  from  the  air. 
This  serves  as  a  stock  for  general  use.     The 
lime  sediment  remaining  may  have  some  hot 
water  added,  which  will  give  a  strong  lye,  and 
may  be  used  for  first  boils  for  yarn  or  heavy 
cloth. 

102.  To    make    Caustic    Soda.      For 
every  gallon  water  add  1  pound  soda  ash,  or 
2  pounds  crystallized  soda  (washing  soda); 
boil  and  proceed  by  adding  slaked  b'me,  and 
testing  as  for  potash ;   boiling  for  some  time 
is  essential  in  order  to  ensure  perfect  caus- 
ticity. 

103.  To   make   Lime-water.      Take 
some  well  and  newly-burned  limestone,  and 
pour  water  over  it  as  long  as  the  stone  seems 
to  absorb  it,  and  allow  it  to  stand;   if  not 
breaking  down  freely,  sprinkle  a  litttle  more 
water  over  it.    A  small  quantity  is  best  done 
in  a  vessel,  such  as  an  old  cask,  so  that  it  can 
be  covered  with  a  board  or  bag.    After  being 
slaked,  add  about  1  pound  of  it  to  every  10 
gallons  cold  water,  then  stir  and  alldw  to  set- 
tle; the  clear  liquor  is  what  is  used  for  dyeing. 
This  should  be  made  up  just  previous  to  using, 
as  lime-water  standing  attracts  carbonic  acid 
Torn  the  air,  which  tends  to  weaken  the  solu- 
iion. 

104.  To   Make    Bleaching   Liquor. 
Take  a  quantity  of  bleaching  powder  (chloride 
of  lime)  and  add  to  it  as  much  water  as  will 
make  it  into  a  thin  cream;  take  a  flat  piece 
of  wood,  and  break  all  the  small  pieces  by 
pressing  them  against  the  side  of  the  vessel, 
,hen  add  2  gallons  cold  water  for  every  pound 

of  powder;  stir  well,  put  a  cover  upon  the 
vessel,  and  allow  the  whole  to  settle.  This 
will  form  a  sort  of  stock  vat  for  bleachingopera- 
;ions. 

105.  To  make  a  Sour.     To  every  gal- 
on  of  water  add  1  gill  of  sulphuric  acid,  stir 
,horoughly;  goods  steeped  in  this  should  be 
;overed  with  the  liquor,  as  pieces  exposed 
jecome   dry,  which  deteriorates  the  fibre;  if 
eft  under  the  liquor  the  cloth  is  not  hurt  by 
jeing  long  in  the  sour,  but  on  being  taken 
out,  every  care  should  be  taken  to  wash  out 
,he  liquor  thoroughly,  otherwise  the   goods 
wrill  be  made  tender. 

106.  To  make  Cochineal  Liquor  or 
Paste.     Put  8  ounces  ground  cochineal  into 
a  flask  and  add  to  it  8  fluid  ounces  ammonia 
and  8  ounces  water;  let  the  whole  simmer  to- 

;ether  for  a  few  hours,  when  the  liquor  is 
ready  for  use. 


THE    AllT    OF  DYEING. 


33 


107.  Acid  Preparations  of  Tin.    The 

acid  preparations  of  tin  used  in  dyeing  are 
called  spirits,  with  a  term  prefixed  to  each 
denoting  their  particular  application,  as  red 
spirits,  barwood  spirits,  <fcc.  The  tin  em- 
ployed for  making  these  preparations  has  to 
undergo  a  process  called  feathering,  and  is  as 
follows: — the  tin  is  molted  in  an  iron  pot,  and 
then  poured  from  some  height  into  a  vessel 
filled  with  cold  water;  this  granulates  or 
feathers,  the  tin.  (See  No.  .3319.) 

108.  Bed  Spirits  are  made  by  mixing 
together  in  a  stoneware  vessel,  3  parts  by 
measure  hydrochloric  acid,  1  part  nitric  acid, 
and  1  part  water,  and  adding  to  this  feathered 
tin  in  small  quantities  at  a  time,  until  about 
2  ounces  tin  to  the  pound  of  acid  used  are 
dissolved.     In  this  operation  the  temperature 
should  not  be  allowed  to  rise.     (See  No.  4124.) 

109.  Yellow  Spirits  are  prepared  in 
the  same  way,  only  substituting  sulphuric 
acid  for  the  nitric  acid.  This  is  used  for  the 
same  purposes  as  red  spirits,  with  the  advan- 
tage of  the  economy  of  sulphuric  over  nitric 
acid. 

110.  Barwood  Spirit  is    prepared    by 
using  5  measures  hydrochloric  acid,  1  nitric 
acid  and  1  water,  dissolving  in  this  1  ounce 
feathered  tin  for  every  pound  of  the  whole 
mixture.     H  ounces  tin  may  be  used  if  the 
red  dye  is  required  to  be  very  deep. 

111.  Plumb  Spirit  is  made  by  using  6 
to  7  measures  hydrochloric  acid  to  1  nitric 
acid  and  1  water,  dissolving  in  it  1£  ounces  tin 
for  each  pound  of  the  acid  mixture.     This 
spirit  is  named  from  a  preparation  made  with 
it  and  a  decoction  of  logwood.     A  strong  so- 
lution of  logwood  is  made  and  allowed  to  cool, 
then  to  each  gallon  of  the  solution  there  is 
added  from  1  to  1£  pints  of  the  spirit ;   the 
whole  is  well  stirred  and  set  aside  to  settle. 
This  preparation  has  a  beautiful  violet  color, 
and  silk  and  cotton  are  dyed  of  that  shade  by 
dipping  them  into  this  plumb  liquor  without 
any  previous  mordant.     The  depth  of  tint 
will  depend  on  the  strength  of  the  solution. 

112.  Plumb  Spirit  for  Woolen  Dye- 
ing-.    This  is  prepared  by  adding  tin  to  ni- 
tric acid  in  which  a  quantity  of  chloride  of 
ammonium  (sal  ammoniac)  has  been  dissolved. 
Observe,  that  all  these  spirit  preparations  are 
varied  by  different  operators,  some  preferring 
more  or  less  of  the  two  acids,  and  also  of 
the  tin ;  but  the  proportions  given  form  good 
working  spirits,  and  if  care  be  taken  in  their 
preparation  not  to  fire  them,  that  is,  not.  to 
allow  the  temperature  to  get  so  high  as  to 
convert  the  tin  into  a  persalt,  the  operator 
will  not  fail  in  his  processes  as  far  as  the 
quality  of  the  spirit  is  concerned. 

113.  Tin    Spirits.     The   following  .are 
among  the  best  recommended  preparations  of 
tin  spirits,  used  for  dyeing  scarlet : 

1  pound  nitric  acid,  1  pound  water;  dissolve 
in  this  1£  ounces  sal  ammoniac,  and  then  add, 
by  degrees,  2  ounces  pure  tin,  beaten  into  rib- 
bons. 

Or :  dissolve  1  part  sal  ammoniac  in  8  parts 
nitric  acid  at  30°  Baume ;  add,  by  degrees,  1 
part  pure  tin;  and  dilute  the  solution  with 
one-fourth  its  weight  of  water. 

Or:  4  parts  hydrochloric  acid  at  17°  Baumd, 
1  part  nitric  ac'id  at  30°  Baume ;  dissolve  in 
this  mixture  1  part  pure  tin. 


Or :  8  parts  nitric  acid,  1  part  sal  ammoniac 
or  common  salt,  and  1  part  grain  tin.  This  is 
the  common  spirit  used  by  dyers. 

114.  Alum    Plumb.     Make    a    strong 
decoction  of  logwood,  and  then  add  to  it  1 
pound  alum  for    every    pound    of  logwood 
used. 

115.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Alum. 
The  usual  impurity  whfch  renders  alum  unfit 
for  the  uses  of  the  dyer,  is  the  ferro-sulphate 
of  potassa,  but  if  iron  be  present  in  any  other 
shape  it  is  equally  injurious.    Common  alum 
frequently  contains  ammonia,  from  urine  or 
the  crude  sulphate  of  the  gas  works  having 
been  employed  in  its  manufacture.    This  may 
be  detected  by  adding  a  little  quicklime  or 
caustic  potassa.    Pure  alum  should  form  a 
colorless  solution  with  water,  and  give  a  white 
precipitate  with  pure  potassa  soluble  in  an  ex- 
cess of  the  latter.    It  should  suffer  no  change 
on  the  addition  of  tincture  of  galls,  prussiate 
of  potash,  or  sulphurated  hydrogen. 

1 16.  Nitrate  of  Iron  is  used  in  the  dye- 
house  for  various  purposes.    Its  principal  use 
is  for  dyeing  Prussian  Blue,  and  is  obtained  as 
follows  :  Take  4  parts  nitric  acid  and  1  part 
water  in  a  glass  or  stoneware  vessel ;  place  it 
in  a  warm  bath,  and  add  clean  iron  so  long  as 
the  acid  continues  to  dissolve  it  with  effer- 
vescence ;  take  out  any  iron  that  remains  Tin- 
dissolved,  and,  after  settling  for  1  hour,  the 
clear  solution  is  ready  for  use.    The  fumes 
given  off  during  the  operation  should  be  guard- 
ed against,  being  deleterious  to  health  and  in- 
jurious to  any  metal  or  vegetal  with  which 
they  come  in  contact.    This  solution  should 
be  kept  in  the  dark,  as  it  loses  some  of  its 
strength  by  exposure  to  light. 

117.  Chloride  of  Iron  is  another  salt 
used  in  the  dye-house  for  dyeing  silks  and 
woolens  a  deep  blue,  and  is  preferred,  for  that 
purpose,  to  copperas.    It  is  prepared  for  use 
thus :  To  4  parts  hydrochloric  acid  add  2  parts 
water,  and  apply  a  gentle  heat ;  then  add  iron 
in  pieces,  or  filings,  so  long  as  it  continues  to 
be  dissolved ;  then  pour  off  the  clear  liquid 
into  a  basin,  and  evaporate,  when  greenish 
colored  crystals  of  chloride  of  iron  will  be  ob- 
tained.   This  salt  crystallizes  with  difficulty, 
deliquesces  in  the  air,  and  should  not  be  ex- 
posed.   Instead  of  evaporating  and  crystal- 
lizing, the  solution  may  be  put  in  a  bottle  and 
reserved  for  use. 

118.  To  make  Iron  Liquor.    Into  a 
large  cast-iron  boiler,  or  pot,  a  quantity  of 
iron  turnings,  hoops  or  nails,  are  introduced, 
and  acetic  acid — the  crude  pyroligneous  acid 
from  the  distillation  of  wood — is  poured  in 
upon  them.    The  strength  of  the  acid  is  gen- 
erally of  5°  Baume,  or  specific  gravity  1.035. 
A  temperature  of  150°  Fahrenheit  is  main- 
tained till  the  solution  of  protoacetate  of  iron 
is  obtained.    During  the  solution  of  the  iron 
much  tarry  matter  separates,  which  is  skim- 
med off,  and  the  solution  frequently  agitated, 
to  free  it,  as  much  as  possible,  from  the  tar. 
As  soon  as  a  strength  is  gained  of  a  specific 
gravity  of  1.09,  at  60°  Fahrenheit,  the  solution 
is  allowed  to  cool,  for  a  further  quantity  of 
impurities  to  separate.     When  clean  turnings 
are  operated  on,  the  process  of  solution  is 
completed  in  5  to  7  days. 

119.  To  make  up  a  Blue  Vat.    Take  1 
pound  indigo,  and  gnnd  in  water  until  no 


THE    ART    OF  DYEING. 


grittiness  can  be  felt  between  the  fingers; 
put  this  into  a  deep  vessel — casks  are  gener- 
ally used — with  about  12  gallons  water ;  then 
add  2  pounds  copperas,  and  3  pounds  newly- 
slaked  lime,  and  stir  for  15  minutes ;  stir  again 
after  2  hours,  and  repeat  every  2  hours  for  5  or 
6  times ;  towards  the  end,  the  liquor  should  be 
of  a  greenish  yellow  color,  with  blackish 
veins  through  it,  and  #  rich  froth  of  indigo  on 
the  surface.  After  standing  8  hours  to  settle, 
the  vat  is  fit  to  use. 

120.  To  make  Blue  Stone.    Sulphate 
of  copper  is  known  in  commerce  as  Blue 
stone,  Roman  vitriol,  and  Blue  vitriol,  and 
may  be  prepared  by  exposing  pure  copper  in 
thin  sheets  to  the  joint  action  of  dilute  sul- 
phuric acid  and  air;   or  by  treating  freshly 
precipitated  oxide  of  copper  with  diluted  pure 
oil  of  vitriol ;  or  by  boiling  the  metal  with  oil 
of  vitriol,  either  in  the  concentrated  state  or 
diluted  with  an  equal  bulk  of  water.    These 
are  the  simplest  ways  of  obtaining  this  salt, 
which  may  be  reduced  to  a  crystalline  form 
by  evaporation.    The  crystals  assume  a  well- 
defined  rhomboidal  form  of  a  fine  sapphire- 
blue  color. 

121.  To  make  Solutions  for  Dyeing. 
In  making  solutions  of  copperas,  blue  stone, 
chrome,  &c.,  there  is  no  fixed  rule  to  be  fol- 
lowed.   A  quantity  of  the  crystals  are  put  into 
a  vessel,   and   boiling  water   poured    upon 
them    and    stirred   until    dissolved.      Some 
salts  require  less  water  than  others  when  sat- 
urated solutions  are  wanted ;  but  in  the  dye- 
house  saturation  is  not  essential,  and  therefore 
there  is  always  used  ample  water  to  dissolve 
the  salt.    In  all  cases,  however,  the  propor- 
tions are  known,  so  that  the  operator,  when 
adding  a  gallon,  or  any  other  quantity  of 
liquor  to  the  dye-bath,  knows  how  much  salt 
that  portion  contains.     Prom  £  to  1  pound 
per  gallon  is  a  common  quantity. 

122.  To   Prepare   Cotton   Yarn   for 
Dyeing.     Cotton  yarn,  when  spun,  is  put  up 
in  hanks,  a  certain  number  of  which  com- 
bined constitute  a  head  ;  the  number  of  hanks 
ranging   from    6    to    20,    according    as    the 
fineness  of  the  yarn  varies  from  very  coarse 
to  very  fine.    Sufficient  of  these  heads  are 
tied  together,  or  banded  with  stout  twine  into 
a  bundle,  to  make  10  pounds. 

After  banding,  the  cotton  is  boiled  in  water 
for  2  or  3  hours  until  thoroughly  wet.  The 
bundles  are  then  loosed,  and  each  roll  of  yarn 
is  put  on  a  wooden  pin,  about  3  feet  long 
and  1|  inches  thick,  4  or  6  pins  making  a 
bundle.  The  yarn  is  now  ready  for  dyeing 
dark  colors;  but  for  light  shades,  it  must  be 
bleached  previous  to  dyeing.  The  bleaching 
is  performed  thus : 

123.  To  Bleach.  Cotton  Yarn.    A  ves- 
sel sufficiently  large  to  allow  of  the  yarn  be- 
ing worked  in  it  freely  without  pressing,  is  to 
be  two-thirds  filled  with  boiling  water ;  add  1 
pint  bleaching  liquor  (see  No.  104)  to  every 
gallon  of  water  in  the  vessel,  and  work  the 
yarn  in  this  for  half  an  hour.    Into  another 
vessel  of  similar  size,  two-thirds  filled  with 
cold  water,  add  one  wine-glassful    sulphuric 
acid  for  every  2  gallons  water ;  stir  well,  and 
then  put  the  yarn  from  the  bleaching  solution 
into  this,  and  work  for  10  minutes ;  then  wash 
out  until  all  the  acid  is  removed.    This  will 
bleach  the  yarn  for  dyeing  any  light  shade. 


124.  To  Prepare   Cotton   Cloth   for 
Dyeing.     The  cloth  is  taken  out  of  the  fold, 
and  hanked  up  by  the  hand,  taking  the  end 
through  the  hank  and  tying  it  loosely,  tech- 
nically termed  kinching ;   it  is  then  steeped 
over  night  in  old  alkaline  lye,  which  loosens 
and    removes  the    oil,   grease    and  dressing 
which  it  has  obtained  in  weaving ;  it  is  then 
thoroughly   rinsed   in   clean  water.     "Where 
there  is  a  dash-wheel,  it  should  be  used  for 
this  washing.     In  consequence  of  the  liquor 
often  fermenting  with  the  paste  in  the  cloth, 
this  process  has  been  technically  termed  the 
rot  steep. 

If  the  cloth  is  to  be  dyed  a  dark  color,  no 
further  preparation  is  needed ;  but  if  light, 
the  cloth  has  to  be  bleached  as  follows : 

125.  To  Bleach  Cotton  Cloth.    After 
undergoing  the  rot  steep,  boil  for  3  hours  in 
caustic  lye,  of  the  strength  of  1  gill  of  stock 
lye  (see  No.   101)  to  the  gallon  of  water ; 
wash  out,  and  steep  for  6  hours  in  a  solution 
of  1  pint  of  bleaching  liquor  (see  No.  104)  to 
the  gallon  of  water;  wash,  and  steep  1  hour 
in  a  strong  sour  of  1  wine-glassful  sulphuric 
acid  to  1  gallon  water ;  wash  well  from  this 
before  drying  or  dyeing. 

If  the  cloth  be  very  heavy,  it  may  be  neces- 
sary to  repeat  in  their  proper  order  the  boiling 
in  lye,  the  steeping  in  bleaching  liquor,  and 
in  the  sour,  finishing,  as  before,  with  thorough 
washing  or  drying. 

In  bleaching  cloth  for  dyeing,  care  has  to 
be  taken  that  it  is  all  equally  white,  other- 
wise it  will  show  in  the  color. 

The  quantity  of  water  used  should  be  suffi- 
cient to  cover  the  cloth  easily  without  pressure. 

If  the  goods  be  old,  and  have  previously 
been  dyed,  and  if  the  shade  required  be  a 
deep  shade,  and  the  color  of  the  goods  light, 
in  that  case  nothing  is  generally  required  but 
steeping  in  alkaline  lye  to  remove  any  grease 
or  starch ;  but  if  the  color  of  the  cloth  is 
dark,  the  best  method  is  to  bleach  as  if  they 
were  gray  goods. 

126.  To  Remove  Oil  Stains.    When 
there  are  oil  spots  upon  goods,  and  so  fixed 
or  dried  in,  that  steeping  in  an  alkaline  lye 
will  not  remove  them,  rub  a  little  soft  soap 
upon  the  stain,  and  let  it  remain  for  an  hour, 
then  rub  gently  with  the  hand  in  a  lather  of 
soap,  slightly  warmed,  and  wash  in  water; 
for  cotton,  a  little  caustic  lye  will  do  equally 
well,  but  the  soap  is  preferable,  and  seldom 
fails.    It  is  essential  that  all  oil  or  grease  be 
removed  before  dyeing. 

127.  To  Remove  Iron  Stains.     Take 
a  little  hydrochloric  acid  in  a  basin  or  saucer, 
and  make  it  slightly  warm,  then  dip  the  iron 
stain  into  the  acid  for  about  1  minute,  which 
will  dissolve    the  oxide  of  iron;    the  cloth 
must  be  well  washed  from  this,  first  in  water, 
then  in  a  little  soda  and  water,  so  as  to  re- 
move all  trace  of  acid.    A  little  oxalic  acid 
may  be  used   instead  of  hydrochloric,   but 
more  time  is  required,   and  with  old  fixed 
spots  is  not  so  effective.    The  same  precau- 
tions are  necessary 'in  washing  out  the  acid, 
as  oxalic  acid  dried  in  the  cloth  injures  it. 

128.  To  Remove  Mildew  from  Cot- 
ton.    Proceed  with  the  stains  by  rubbing  in 
soap  or  steeping  in  a  little  soda,  washing,  and 
then  steeping  in  bleaching  liquor  (see  No.  104), 
or  by  putting  a  wine-glassful  of  the  stock 


THE   ART   OF  DYEING. 


35 


liquor  (see  No.  101)  in  1  pint  of  water;  after- 
wards wash,  pass  through  a  sour  (see  No.  105), 
and  wash  again. 

1 29.  To  Remove  Indelible-Ink  Marks. 
Steep  in  a  little  chlorine  water  or  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  bleaching  liquor  (see  No.  104),  for 
about  half  an  hour,  then  wash  in  ammonia 
water,  which  will  obliterate  the  stain;  then 
wash  in  clear  water.    They  may  also  be  re- 
moved by  spreading  the  cloth  with  the  ink 
marks  over  a  basin  filled  with  hot  water; 
then  moisten  the  ink  marks  with  tincture  oi 
iodine,  and  immediately  after  take  a  feather 
and  moisten  the  parts  stained  by  the  iodine 
with  a  solution  of  hyposulphate  of  soda,  or 
caustic  potassa  or  soda,  until  the  color  is  re- 
moved ;  then  let  the  cloth  dip  in  the  hot  wa- 
ter ;  after  a  while  wash  well  and  dry. 

130.  Indigo  Blue  Dye  for  Yarn.    The 
vats  used  for  dyeing  indigo  blue  are  usually 
wine  pipes  or  other  large  casks,  sunk  in  the 
ground  to  a  depth  convenient  for  the  operators 
to  work  at.     Five  of  these  constitute  a  set, 
and  are  worked  together  and  kept  of  the  same 
strength.     The  yarn  being  worked  in  quanti- 
ties of  100  pounds,  20  pounds  are    passed 
through  each  vat. 

Each  vat  is  filled  about  three-fourths  with 
cold  water;  there  are  then  added  8  pounds  of 
indigo,  16  pounds  of  sulphate  of  iron  (cop- 
peras), and  24  pounds  newly-slaked  lime.  The 
whole  is  well  stirred  with  a  rake  for  half  an 
hour,  and  this  stirring  is  repeated  every 
hours  for  the  first  day. 

The  time  to  stop  the  stirring  is  known  by 
the  solution  becoming  a  rich  oak  yellow, 
having  large  blue  veins  running  through  it 
and  a  fine  indigo  froth  on  the  surface.  When 
these  signs  are  all  favorable,  the  solution  is 
allowed  to  stand  for  several  hours  till  all  the 
solid  matter  settles,  when  it  is  ready  for  use. 

The  mode  of  dyeing  consists  in  simply  im- 
mersing the  goods,  and  working  them  in  the 
solution  for  15  minutes,  taking  out  and 
wringing  or  pressing,  and  then  exposing  to 
the  air ;  repeating  this  operation  until  the  de- 
sired depth  of  color  is  obtained.  The  yarn  is 
then  washed  in  cold  water  and  dried.  "When 
the  shade  required  is  very  deep,  the  yarn 
may,  previous  to  washing,  be  passed  through 
a  tub  of  water  acidulated  with  vitriol  till  it 
tastes  acid,  and  then  washed ;  this  adds  bril- 
liancy to  the  color. 

131 .  Sky  Blue  Dye  for  Cotton  Goods. 
To  dye  10  pounds  of  cotton,  first  bleach  the 
cotton  (see  No.  125);  then,  to  a  tub  of  cold 
water  sufficient  to  work  the  goods  easily,  add 
i  pint  nitrate  of  iron,  and  work  in  this  for  20 
minutes;  wring  out,  and  pass  through  a  tub 
of  clean  water.      Into  another  tub  of  cold 
water  add  4  ounces  ferrocyauide  of  potassium 
in  solution,  and  about  a  wine-glassful  of  sul- 
phuric  acid;    work  the  goods  in  this  for  15 
minutes;    wring  out  and  wash  through  cold 
water,  in  which  is  dissolved  1  ounce  of  alum; 
wring  out  and  dry.     For  lighter  or  darker 
shades  of  blue,  use  less  or  more  of  the  iron 
and  ferrocyanide;  or,  should  the  color  be  too 
light  after  passing  through  the  process  de- 
scribed," add  1  ounce  more  ferrocyanide,  repeat 
the  operation  through  the  same  tubs,  and  the 
shade  will  be  deepened  nearly  double. 

132.  Napoleon  Blue.     For  10  pounds 
cotton  goods,  the  cotton  must  be  first  bleached. 


Into  a  tub  of  cold  water  put  1  imperial  pint  of 
nitrate  of  iron  and  2  gills  hydrochloric  acid, 
then  add  3  ounces  crystals  of  tin  (or  1  pint 
chloride  of  tin);  stir  well  and  immediately 
work  the  goods  in  it  for  30  minutes;  .wring 
out  and  put  directly  into  the  prussiate  tub, 
made  up  with  water  into  which  is  put  a  solu- 
tion of  12  ounces  ferrocyanide,  and  one  wine- 
glassful  of  hydrochloric  acid;  work  in  this 
for  15  minutes,  then  wash  out  in  clean  water 
in  which  is  dissolved  2  ounces  of  alum.  If  a 
deeper  shade  of  blue  is  required,  wash  them 
in  clean  water  without  the  alum,  pass  them 
again  through  the  two  tubs ;  and,  lastly,  wash 
them  in  water  with  the  alum. 

133.  Royal  Blue.     This  is  dyed  in  the 
same  manner  as  Napoleon  Blue,  but  the  li- 
quors are  stronger — using  2  pints  iron  solution, 
2  gills  hydrochloric  acid,  and  4  ounces  tin 
crystals.    The  Prussiate  tub  is  made  up  by 
dissolving  in  it  1  pound  ferrocyanide  of  po- 
tassium, and  adding  1  wine-glassful  of  sul- 
phuric acid,  and  1  of  hydrochloric  acid.    If 
not  dark  enough  with  putting  through  once, 
repeat. 

134.  Blue.     Copperas  (sulphate  of  iron) 
is  used  as  a  mordant  for  dyeing  blue  by  ferro- 
cyanide   of  potassium  (prussiate  of  potas- 
sium). The  copperas  best  suited  for  the  blue  vat 
should  be  of  a  dark  rusty  green  color,  and 
free  from  copper,  zinc,  or  alumina.    Thus,  10 
pounds  cotton  may  be  dyed  a  good  rich  blue 
by  working  it  for  15  minutes  in  a  solution  of 
4  pounds  copperas;  wring  out;  and  then  work 
through  a  solution  of  4  ounces  of  the  ferro- 
cyanide; finally,  wash  in  cold  water  containing 
1  ounce  alum  in  solution. 

Copperas  is  also  used  as  a  dye  by  the  oxi- 
dation of  the  iron  within  the  fibre.    Thus: 

135.  Iron  Buff  or  Nankeen.    Take  2 
pounds  copperas,  and  dissolve  in  warm  water, 
then  add  the  requisite  quantity  of  water  for 
working  the  goods;  work  in  this  for  20  min- 
utes;  wring  out,  and  put  immediately  into 
another    vessel  filled  with  lime-water,  and 
work  in  this  for  15  minutes;  wring  out  and 
expose  to  the  air  for  half  an  hour,  when  the 
goods  will  assume  a  buff  color.      If  the  color 
is  not  sufficiently  deep,  the  operation  may  be 
repeated,  working  through  the  same  copperas 
solution,  but  using  fresh  lime-water  each  time. 
The  goods  should  be  finally  washed  through 
clean  warm  water  and  dried. 

136.  Nankeen  or  Buff  Dye  for  Cot- 
ton Goods.     To  a  tub  of  hot  water  add  1 
pint  nitrate  of  iron,  and  work  in  this  for  half 
an  hour  10  pounds  cotton  previously  bleached 
(see  No.  125) ;  wash  out  in  water,  and  dry. 
This  process  is  simple  and  easy,  and  produces 
a  permanent  dye. 

137.  General  Receipts   for   Dyeing 
Cotton.    In  the  following  receipts,  the  quan- 
tities are  given  for  10  pounds  cotton,  whether 
yarn  or  cloth.    For  more  or  less  cotton,  the 
quantities  can  be  increased  or  diminished  in 
proportion;  but  when  small  articles  are  to  be 
dyed — such  as  ribbons,  gloves,  <fec. — a  little 
more  of  the  materials  may  be  used  in  propor- 
tion to  advantage.    Where  washing  is  referred 
;o,  it  is  always  in  cold  water,  unless  other- 
wise specified. 

138.  Common  Black.     Steep  the  goods 
n  a  decoction  of  3  pounds  sumach  while  it  is 

hot,  and  let  them  lie  over  night;  wring  out 


36 


THE   ART   OF  DYEING. 


and  work  them  for  10  minutes  through  lime- 
water,  then  work  for  half  an  hour  in  a  solu- 
tion of  2  pounds  copperas.  They  may  either 
be  washed  from  this,  or  worked  again  through 
lime-water  for  10  minutes;  then  work  them 
for  half  an  hour  in  a  warm  decoction  of  3 
pounds  logwood,  adding  £  pint  chamber  lye; 
before  entering  the  goods,  lift  and  raise  with 

2  ounces  copperas  in  solution;  work  10  min- 
utes, then  wash  and  dry. 

139.  Jet  Black.      The  goods  are  dyed 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  last  receipt;  but 
along  with  the  logwood  is  added  1  pound 
fustic. 

In  both  the  above  receipts  if  3  pints  iron 
liquor  (see  No.  118)  be  used  instead  of  the 
copperas,  or  in  part  mixed  with  the  cop- 
peras, it  makes  a  richer  shade  of  black,  but 
copperas  is  generally  used;  if  mixed,  use  half 
the  quantity  of  each. 

140.  Blue  Black.     Dye  the  goods  first 
a  good  shade  of  blue  by  the  vat  (see  No.  130), 
and  then  proceed  as  for  common  black.     If 
the  blue  be  very  deep,  then  half  the  quantity 
of  the  materials  for  dyeing  black  will  suffice. 

141.  Spirit  Yellow.     Work  through  a 
solution  ofprotochloride  of  tin,  of  the  specific 
gravity  of  1°  Baume',  for  30  minutes ;  wash 
out,  and  work  for  15  minutes  in  a  decoction  of 

3  pounds  bark  kept  at  a  boiling  heat ;  lift  out 
the  goods  and  add  to  the  bark  solution  -J.pint 
single  chloride  of  tin ;  work  the  goods  for  20 
minutes  in  this,  and  then  wash  well  in  cold 
water.    This  gives  a  rich  yellow. 

142.  Spirit  Brown.    First  dye  the  goods 
a  spirit  yellow,  according  to  the  last  receipt ; 
after  washing,  work  for  %  hour  in  a  decoction 
of  2  pounds  lima  or  peachwood  and  1  pound 
logwood ;  lift  the  goods  out  and  add  3  ounces 
alum  in  solution,  and  work  the  goods  in  it  15 
minutes;  wash  and  dry.    By  varying  the  pro- 
portions of  logwood  and  limawood,  a  vanety 
of  shades  may  be  produced. 

143.  Mordant  Brown.    Steep  the  goods 
for  six  hours  in  a  decoction  of  sumach,  next 
dye  a  spirit  yellow,  according  to  the  receipt 
given  above.    Then  work  for  half  an  hour 
through  a  decoction  of  2  pounds  limawood 
and  8  ounces  logwood;   lift  the  goods,  and 
add  2  ounces  alum  in  solution ;  work  for  15 
minutes,  wash  and  dry.    This  method  is  well 
adapted  for  cotton  goods,  is  better  than  the 
spirits,  and  more  easily  performed  by  the  non- 
practical  man.    The  spirit  brown  is  best  for 
yarn. 

144.  Cinnamon  Brown.     Dye  a  dark 
spirit  yellow  (see  No.  141),  and  work  for  30 
minutes  in  3i  pounds  limawood  and  -J-  pound 
logwood;   lift  the  goods  and  add  2  ounces 
alum  in  solution ;  wash  and  dry. 

145.  TTvanterin  Brown.    Dye  a  spirit 
yellow    (see   No.    141),  then   work    for  20 
minutes  in  a  decoction  of  1  pound  limawood 
and  1  pound  fustic ;  lift,  and  add  -J-  pint  red 
liquor  (see  No.  100)  ;  work  10  minutes  in  this; 
wash  and  dry. 

146.  Fawn  Brown.     Take  1  part  an- 
notto  liquor  (see  No.  95),  and  1  part  boiling 
water ;  stir  well,  and  work  the  goods  in  it  for 
10  minutes ;  wring  out  and  wash  in  two  wa- 
ters ;  then  work  for  20  minutes  in  a  decoction 
of  2  pounds  fustic  and  1  pound  sumach ;  lift, 
and  add  3  ounces  copperas  in  solution ;  stir 
•well,  and  work  for  20  minutes  longer ;  then 


work  for  20  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  8  ounces 
limawood,  8  ounces  fustic,  and  4  ounces  log- 
wood ;  lift,  and  add  1  ounce  alum ;  work  in 
this  for  10  minutes ;  wring  out  and  dry. 

147.  Catechu  Brown.     Work  the  goods 
at  a  boiling  heat  for  2  hours  in  2  pounds  of 
catechu  prepared  according  to  No.  96 ;  wring 
out,  and  then  work  for  hah1  an  hour  in  a  hot 
solution  of  6  ounces  bichromate  of  potassa ; 
wash  from  this  in  hot  water.    If  a  little  soap  be 
added  to  the  wash  water,  the  color  is  improved. 
Deeper  shades  of  brown  may  be  dyed  by 
repeating  the  operation. 

148.  Catechu  Chocolates.    Dye  brown 
according  to  the  last  receipt,  then  work  for  15 
minutes  in  a  decoction  of  1^  pounds  logwood ; 
lift,  and  add  3  ounces  alum  in  solution ;  work 
10  minutes  longer ;  wash  out  and  dry.    Dif- 
ferent shades  of  brown  and  chocolate  can  be 
produced,  by  varying  the  proportion  of  log- 
wood, and  the  strength  of  the  brown  dye. 

149.  Chocolate,  or   French   Brown. 
Dye  a  spirit  yellow  according  to  receipt  No. 
141 ;  then  work  for  hall'  an  hour  in  a  decoc- 
tion of  3  pounds  logwood ;  lift,  and  add  ^  pint 
of  red  liquor  (see  No.  100),  and  work  10  min- 
utes longer ;  wash  and  dry.     A  deeper  shade 
may  be  obtained  by  adding  1  pound  fustic  to 
the  logwood. 

150.  Catechu  Fawns.    "Work  the  goods 
15  minutes  in  hot  water  containing  2  pints 
catechu,  prepared  as  in  receipt  No.  96 ;  wring 
out,  and  work  15  minutes  in  hot  water  con- 
taining 1  ounce  bichromate  of  potassa  in  solu- 
tion ;  wash  and  dry. 

151.  Catechu  Fawns — Another  Meth- 
od.    Work  in  the  catechu  the  same  as  in  the 
last  receipt ;  wring  out,  and  work  for  15  min- 
utes  in  warm  water  containing    2    ounces 
acetate  of  lead  in  solution;    wash  in  cold 
water  and  dry. 

1 52.  Catechu  Fawns— Another  Meth- 
od.    Work  in  warm  water  containing  4  pints 
catechu  (see  No.  96),  lift,  and  add  2  ounces 
copperas  in  solution,  and  work  for  15  minutes ; 
wash  in  water,  and  then  in  another  tub  of 
warm  water  in  which  sufficient  soap  has  been 
dissolved  to  raise  a  lather,  and  then  dry. 

153.  Common  Bed.     Make  a  decoction 
of  3  pounds  sumach,  and  put  the  goods  in  at 
once ;  let  them  steep  over  night ;  wring  out 
and  work  for  an  hour  in  a  mixture  of  1  gill 
red    spirits  (see  No.   108),  to  every  gallon 
water ;  wring  out  and  wash  well ;  then  work 
for  half  an  hour  in  a  decoction  of  3  pounds 
limawood  and  1  pound  fustic,  using  this  de- 
coction as  hot  as  the  hand  can  bear  it ;  lift, 
and  add  1  gill  red  spirits,  then  work  for  1^ 
minutes  more ;  wash  out  and  dry. 

154.  Barwood  Bed.     To  a  decoction  of 
2   pounds    sumach,   add  a  wine-glassful    of 
vitriol,  and  steep  the  goods  in  it  for  6  hours ; 
wring  out  and  work  for  an  hour  in  red  spirit 
(see  No.  108),  diluted  to  2°  Baum6;  wring 
out  and  wash,  then  pass  through  a  tub  of 
warm  water ;  put  10  pounds  barwood  into  a 
boiler  with  water  and  bring  it  near  to  the 
boil,  then  put  in  the  goods  and  work  among 
the  wood  grains  for  £  hour;  lift  out,  wash, 
wring  and  dry.    Deeper  shades  may  15e  dyed 
by  using  larger  quantities  of  tho  materials  in 
each  operation. 

155.  Scarlet.     For  1  pound  of  goods, 
boil  If  ounces  cream  of  tartar  in  water  in  a 


THE   ART    OF   DYEING. 


37 


block-tin  vessel;  add  If  ounces  tin  spirits, 
made  according  to  the  first  receipt  in  Wo.  113; 
boil  for  3  minutes,  then  boil  the  goods  in  it 
for  2  hours;  drain  and  let  the  goods  cool. 
Next  boil  i  ounce  cream  of  tartar  for  a  few 
minutes  in  some  water;  add  to  it  1  ounce 
powdered  cochineal,  boil  for  5  minutes,  adding 
gradually  1  ounce  tin  spirits,  stirring  well  all 
the  time;  then  put  in  the  goods  and  dye  im- 
mediately. 

156.  Common  Crimson.      Steep  over 
night  in  a  decoction  of  3  pounds  sumach; 
work  in  spirits  diluted  2°  Baume,  wash  and 
then  work  for  30  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  3 
pounds  limawood  and  1  pound  logwood;  lift, 
and  add  a  gill  of  red  spirits  (see  No.  108); 
work  for  15  minutes;  wash  and  dry.    A  beau- 
tiful red  crimson  is  obtained  by  omitting  the 
logwood;   and  a  diversity  of  tints  dyed  by 
varying  the  proportions  of  the  limawood  and 
logwood. 

157.  Light  Straw.     To  a  tub  of  cold 
water  add  4  ounces  acetate  of  lead  in  solution, 
work  the  goods  in  this  for  15  minutes,  and 
wring  out;  then  work  for  10  minutes  in  an- 
other tub  of  water  containing  2  ounces  bi- 
chromate of  potassa;   wring  out,  and  work 
again  in  the  lead  solution  for  10  minutes; 
wash  and  dry. 

158.  Leghorn.     This  tint  is  dyed  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  last,  but  adding  |  pint 
of  annotto  liquor  (see  No.  95)  to  the  chrome 
solution.    Different  shades  may  be  obtained 
by  using  more  or  less  of  these  stuffs,  without 
varying  the  mode  of  working. 

159.  Annotto  Orange.     Heat  the  an- 
notto  solution   (see  No.  95)   to  about  140° 
Pahr.;  work  the  goods  in  it  for  20  minutes; 
wring  out  thoroughly  in  order  to  economize 
the  liquor,  wash  in  a  couple  of  waters  and 
dry.    If  the  goods  are  then  passed  through 
water  with  sufficient  acid  to  taste  sour,  a  very 
red  orange,  almost  scarlet,  is  obtained,  but  the 
tint  fades  quickly. 

160.  Logwood  Blue.     Dye  first  a  light 
blue  with  the  vat  (see  No.  130),  then  soak  the 
goods  for  several  hours  in  a  hot  decoction  of 
2  pounds  sumach;  then  work  for  15  minutes 
in  water  containing  1   pint  red  liquor  (see 
No.  100)  and  1  pint  iron  liquor  (see  No.  118); 
wash  in  two  waters,  hot;    then  work  for  20 
minutes  in  a  decoction  of  2  pounds  logwood; 
lift,  and  add  |  pint  red  liquor,  and  work  again 
for  10  minutes;  wash  and  dry. 

161.  Fustic  Green  on  Yarn.    Dye  a 
blue  with  the  vat  (see  No.  130),  wash  and 
wring,  and  then  pass  through  red  liquor  (see 
No.  100)  diluted  to  4°  Bauine;  wash  through 
a  tub  of  hot  water,  and  then  work  for  20  min- 
utes in  a  decoction  of  4  pounds  fustic;  lift, 
and  add  2  ounces^alum  in  solution;  work  for 
15  minutes,  wash  and  dry. 

162.  Fustic  Green  on  Cloth.     Work 
the  goods  in  red  liquor  (sec  No.  100)  diluted 
to  4°  Baume,  and  dry  in  a  hot  chamber;  then 
wet  in  hot  water  and  work  for  20  minutes  in 
a  decoction  of  3  pounds  fustic;  lift,  and  add 
2  ounces  alum  in  solution;  work  again  for  15 
minutes;  wring  out  and  work  in  chemic  (a  so- 
lution of  sulphate  Of  indigo  whose  acid  has 
been   neutralized  with  carbonate   of  soda); 
wring  out  and  dry. 

163.  Dark  Green  on  Cloth.    After  the 
goods  have  been  cleaned,  work  them  for  10 


minutes  in  red  liquor  (see  No.  100)  at  5°Baum4; 
wring  out,  and  pass  through  a  tub  of  hot  water; 
then  work  for  half  an  hour  in  a  decoction  of 
3  pounds  bark;  lift,  and  add  ^  pint  red  liquor 
(see  No.  100);  work  10  minutes  longer,  then 
lift  and  drain;  work  next  for  20  minutes  in  a 
tub  of  cold  water  containing  5  gallons  chemic 
(see  last  receipt);  wring  out  and  dry.  The 
depth  of  shade  can  be  varied  by  increasing  or 
diminishing  the  quantities  of  material  in  pro- 
portion. 

164.  Green    with    Prussian    Blue. 
Dye  a  good  Prussian  blue  (see  No.  131)  accord- 
ing to  the  depth  of  green  required;  then  work 
10  minutes  in  red  liquor  (see  No.  100)  at  4° 
Baume;  wash  in  warm  water,  and  work  for 
half  an  hour  in  a  decoction  of  3  pounds  fustic; 
lift,  and  add  2  ounces  alum  in  solution;  work 
again  for  10  minutes,  wash  and  dry.    A  finer 
tint  can  be  obtained  by  using  bark  instead  of 
fustic,  but  it  must  not  be  worked  too  warm. 

165.  Sage  Green.     Dye  a  Prussian  blue 
(see  No.  131),  and  work  10  minutes  in  a  solu- 
tion of  2  pounds  of  alum;   wring  out,  and 
work  15  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  1  pound 
fustic;  lift,  and  add  a  pint  of  the  alum  solution 
already  used;  work  10  minutes;  wash  and  dry. 

166.  Olive  or  Bottle  Green.    Dye  a 
good  shade  of  Prussian  blue  (see  No.  131); 
then  mordant  10  minutes  in  red  liquor  (see 
No.  100)  at  5°  Baume;  wring  out  and  wash 
in  hot  water;   then  work  half  an  hour  in  a 
decoction  of  3  pounds  fustic  and   1  pound 
sumach,  then  add  £  pint  of  iron  liquor  (see 
No.  118),  and  work  15  minutes ;  wash  in  a  tub 
containing  2  ounces  alum,  and  dry. 

167.  Olive  or  Bottle  Green— Another 
Method.     Work  the  goods  in  red  liquor  (see 
No.  100)  at  5°  Baurn6,  wash  out  in  warm  wa- 
ter; then  work  for  half  an  hour  in  a  decoction 
of  3  pounds  bark  and  1  pound  sumach;  lift, 
and  add  ^  pint  iron  liquor  (see  No.  118),  and 
work  15  minutes;  wring  out  and  work  15  min- 
utes in  the  chemic  (see  No.  162);  wring  out 
and  dry. 

168.  Olive  Green.     Dye  a  Prussian  blue 
(see  No.  131);  then  work  for  10  minutes  in 
red  liquor  (see  No.  100)  at  4°  Baume";  wash  in 
hot  water,   and  work  in  a  decoction  of  3 
pounds  bark  and  1  pound  logwood;  lift,  and 
add  %  pint  red  liquor,  and  work  10  minutes; 
wash  and  dry.    By  varying  the  proportions  of 
bark  and  logwood,  different  shades  of  green 
may  be  obtained. 

If  the  goods  be  yarn,  a  light  blue  may  be 
dyed  by  the  vat  (see  No.  130)  instead  of  the 
Prussian  blue,  and  proceeded  with  as  above. 

169.  Lilac  or  Puce.     "Work  for  an  hour 
in  red  spirits  (see  No.   108)  at  1-J-0  Baume'; 
wring  out  and  wash;  then  work  half  an  hour 
in  a  decoction  of  3  pounds  logwood  at  about 
140°  Pahr.;  lift,  and  add  1  gill  red  spirits-,  and 
work  20  minutes;  wash  and  dry.     Half  a  pint 
red  liquor  (see  No.  100)  or  2  ounces  alum, 
may  be  added  to  the  logwood  after  lifting,  in- 
stead of  the  red  spirit. 

170.  Lilac  or  Puce.    "Work  for  15  min- 
utes in  red  liquor  (see  No.  100)  at  5°  Baume'; 
wring  out  and  wash  in  a  tub  of  warm  water; 
then  work  half  an  hour  in  a  decoction  of  2 
pounds  logwood  at  140°  Pahr.;  lift,  and  add 
£  pint  red  liquor,  or  2  ounces  alum ;  work  10 
minutes,  and  wash  in   clean  warm  water; 
wring  out  and  dry. 


38 


THE    ART    OF   DYEING. 


171.  light  Purple  or  Adelaide.   Steep 
the  goods  in  a  decoction  of  2  pounds  sumach ; 
wring  out,  and  work  half  an  hour  in  plumb 
spirit  (see  No.  Ill) ;  wring  out,  and  wash  in 
clean  cold  water  until  no  taste  of  acid  is  left 
on  the  goods,  and  dry. 

When  working  with  the  plumb  spirit,  it  is 
advisable  to  put  a  sufficiency  of  it  into  a 
separate  vessel  for  working  the  goods,  return- 
ing the  liquor  afterwards  to  the  plumb  tub. 

172.  Light  Purple.     Steep  in  a  decoc- 
tion of  2  pounds  sumach ;  wring  out  and  work 
for  20  minutes  in  red  spirits  (see  No.  108)  at 
1£°  Baume;  wash  well  and  then  work  in  plumb 
spirit,  and  finish  the  same  as  the  last  receipt. 

173.  Purple.     Steep  in  a  decoction  of  2 
pounds  sumach  until  cool ;  work  in  red  spirits 
(see  No.  108)  at  1£°  Baum6  for  an  hour,  and 
wash  in  cold  water ;  then  work  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  decoction  of  3  pounds  logwood  at 
140°  Fahr.;  lift,  and  add  1  gill  red  spirits,  and 
work  10  minutes  more ;  wash  in  cold  water 
and  dry. 

If  a  browner  tint  is  required,  use  a  little 
more  sumach;  for  a  bluer  tint,  use  less 
sumach  and  more  logwood;  and  add,  after 
lifting,  £  pint  red  liquor  (see  No.  100),  or  2 
ounces  alum,  instead  of  red  spirits. 

174.  Lavender  or  Peach.    "Work  for 
20  minutes  in  plumb  spirit  (see  No.  Ill) ; 
wring  out,  and  wash  in  clean  cold  water  till 
free  from  acid  taste,  and  dry. 

175.  Logwood,  Lilac  or  Puce.    Dye  a 
good  shade  of  Prussian  blue  (see  No.  131) ; 
then  work  15  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  1 
pound  logwood  at  140°  Fahr.;. lift,  and  add  4 
ounces  alum ;  work  10  minutes,  then  wash  in 
cold  water  and  dry. 

176.  Logwood  Lilac.     Dye  a  sky  blue 
(see  No.  131) ;  then  work  for  15  minutes  in  a 
tub  of  warm  water  containing  1  gallon  alum 
plumb  (see  No.  114) ;  wring  out  and  dry. 

177.  Common   Drab.     "Work  for   15 
minutes  in  a  decoction  of  ^  a  pound  sumach ; 
lift,  and  add  1  ounce  copperas  in  solution, 
and  work  15  minutes  more ;  wash  out  in  a 
tub  of  cold  water,  then  work  15  minutes  in  a 
decoction  of  4  ounces  fustic,  2  ounces  lirna- 
wood,  and  1  ounce  logwood ;  lift,  and  add  1 
ounce  alum  in  solution;  work  10  minutes, 
then  wring  out  and  dry. 

A  great  variety  of  different  tints  can  be 
produced  by  varying  the  proportion  of  the 
limawood,  fustic,  and  logwood;  and  lighter 
or  darker  shades  by  diminishing  or  increasing 
the  quantities  of  sumach  and  copperas. 

178.  Olive  Drab.    "Work  for  15  minutes 
in  -J-  pound  sumach;   lift,  and  add  1   ounce 
copperas,  and  work  15  minutes  more;  wash 
in  water,  then  work  for  20  minutes  in  water 
with  -J-  pound  fustic;   lift,  and  add  1  ounce 
alum,  and  work  for  10  minutes  and  dry. 

179.  Drab.     To  a  tub  of  hot  water  add 
1    pint   annotto    preparation    (see   No.  95), 
which  gives  a  light  salmon  color ;  then  pro- 
ceed as  for  olive  drab  in  last  receipt.    By 
varying  the  quantities  a  great  variety  of  tints 
may  be  obtained. 

180.  Stone  Color.    "Work  the  goods  20 
minutes  in  a  decoction  of  1  pound  sumach ; 
lift,  and  add  1  ounce  copperas  in  solution ; 
work  for  15  minutes,  and  wash  in  cold  water ; 
then  work  10  minutes  in  warm  water  con- 
taining $  pint  alum  plumb  (see  No.  114); 


wring  out  and  dry.  This  gives  a  reddish 
tint,  which  may  be  avoided  by  using  a  solu- 
tion of  £  ounce  of  alum  instead  of  the  alum 
plumb. 

181.  Catechu  Stone  Drab.    "Work  the 
goods  15  minutes  in  hot  water  containing  2 
pints  prepared  catechu  (see  No.  96) ;  lift,  and 
add  2  ounces  copperas  in  solution ;  work  for 
15  minutes,  and  wash  in  water,  then  work  for 
10  minutes  in  a  tub  of  warm  water  containing 
a  decoction  of  2  ounces  logwood ;   lift,  and 
add  £  ounce  alum;   work  10  minutes  more, 
wring  out  and  dry. 

182.  Catechu  Drab.     Work  for  15  min- 
utes in  hot  water  containing  1  pint  prepared 
catechu  (see  No.  96) ;  lift,  and  add  1  ounce 
copperas;  work  10  minutes;   wash  out  and 
dry.    A  variety  of  tints  may  be  obtained  by 
finishing  in  a  weak  decoction  of  one  or  other 
of  the  different  dye-woods. 

183.  Chrome  Dyes  for  Cotton  Goods. 
The  following  recipes  will  serve  to  illustrate 
the  use  and  value  of  chrome  (bichromate  of 
potassa)  as  a  dyeing  agent.    The  quantities 
given  are  for  dyeing  10  pounds  weight  of  cot- 
ton, and  may  be  increased  or  diminished  in 
proportion,  according  to  the  quantity  of  goods 
to  be  dyed. 

184.  Light  Straw.     To  a  tub  of  cold 
water  add  4  ounces  acetate  of  lead,  previously 
dissolved;  work  the  goods  through  this  for 
15  minutes,  and  wring  out ;  into  another  tub 
of  water  add  2  ounces  bichromate  of  potassa ; 
work  the  goods  through   this    10  minutes, 
wring  out  and  pass  again  through  the  lead 
solution  for  10  minutes ;  wash  and  dry. 

185.  Lemon  Color.     Into  a  tub  of  cold 
water  put  1  pound  acetate  of  lead,  previously 
dissolved ;  work  the  goods  in  this  for  15  min- 
utes, and  wring  out ;  into  another  tub  of  cold 
water  put  6  ounces  bichromate  of  potassa  in 
solution;    work  the  goods    for  15   minutes 
through  this,  and  wring  out;  then  work  it  10 
minutes  in  the  lead  solution ;  wring  out,  wash, 
and  dry. 

186.  Deep  Yellow.     To  a  tub  of  cold 
water  add  1  pound  acetate  of  lead,  and  1 
pound  nitrate  of  lead  in  solution ;  work  the 
goods  in  this  for  30  minutes,  and  wring  out ; 
then  to  a  tub  of  warm  water  add  12  ounces 
bichromate  of  potassa,  and  work  the  goods  in 
it  for  15  minutes ;  expose  to  the  air  for  half 
an  hour,  then  pass  again  through  both  solu- 
tions, working  them  the  same  time  in  each  as 
before,  and  expose  to  the  air  for  one  hour ; 
then  pass  them  through  the  lead  solution ; 
wring  out,  wash  and  dry.     If  the  color  is  not 
deep  enough  they  may  be  passed  through  the 
solutions  again,  observing  the  same  rules. 

187.  Deep  Amber  Yellow.    Put  into 
a  tub  of  water  1  pound  acetate  of  lead,  and  to 
this  add  gradually  caustic  potassa  or  soda, 
until  the  precipitate  formed  be  re-dissolved, 
taking  care  not  to  add  more  alkali  than  is  re- 
quired for  this  solution;  work  the  goods  in 
this  for  30  minutes ;  wring  out,  and  work  for 
15  minutes  in  another  tub  of  water  to  which 
8  ounces    bichromate  of  potassa  has   been 
added  in  solution ;  wring  out,  wash  and  dry. 
2  or  3  ounces  sulphate  of  zinc  may  be  added 
to  the  chrome  solution  with  good  effect.    If  a 
deep    red    amber   be  required,   add    to    the 
chrome  solution  £  pint  muriatic  acid. 

188.  Chrome  Green.     Dye  a  blue  by 


THE   ART   OF   DYEING. 


39 


the  process  described  in  No.  131 ;  then  dye  a 
yellow  according  to  the  last  receipt.  The 
depth  of  the  blue  and  yellow  will  regulate  the 
tint  of  green. 

The  principal  difficulty  is  when  a  particular 
depth  or  shade  of  green  is  wanted,  to  ascer- 
tain the  exact  shade  of  blue  to  be  given,  as 
blue  cannot  be  added  upon  the  yellow.  This 
is  a  matter  which  can  only  be  learned  by 
practice. 

189.  French  Process  for  Dyeing  Tur- 
key-Bed. The  following  process  for  dyeing 
turkey-red,  is  the  one  in  general  use  in 
Prance  at  present. 

The  quantities  of  materials,  &c.,  given,  are 
for  dyeing  2200  pounds  of  cotton,  which  has 
already,  it  is  assumed,  been  subjected  to 
thorough  washing  and  scouring  in  soap. 

Dissolve  20  to  22  pounds  carbonate  of 
potassa  in  about  330  gallons  of  water,  and 
provide  for  future  use  1300  to  1400  pounds  of 
fat  oil ;  next  divide  the  goods  to  be  dyed  into 
three  equal  portions. 

The  first  step  in  the  process  is  oiling  the 
goods ;  mix  together  one-third  part  of  the  fat 
oil  and  of  the  solution  of  potassa,  stirring  by 
degrees  into  the  oil  sufficient  solution  to  pro- 
duce an  emulsion;  this  makes  the  white 
liquor. 

One-third  of  the  goods  are  padded,  that  is, 
drawn  through  evenly  backwards  and  for- 
wards, in  this  white  liquor ;  then  take  them 
out  and  lay  together  in  a  heap  in  a  fresh  cool 
place  for  10  or  12  hours,  and  dry  in  an  atmo- 
sphere heated  to  140°  Fahr. 

"While  the  first  portion  of  the  goods  is  dry- 
ing, prepare  a  second  portion  of  white  liquor, 
and  subject  a  second  portion  of  the  goods  to 
the  same  operation  as  the  first ;  the  remaining 
portion  of  the  goods  is  in  turn  subjected  to 
the  same  treatment,  using  the  remainder  of 
the  fat  oil  for  a  third  tub  of  white  liquor ;  by 
this  means  the  process  proceeds  without  inter- 
mission, each  portion  being  under  different 
stages  of  treatment  simultaneously. 

This  routine  is  repeated  several  times 
(generally  seven  or  eight)  on  each  portion, 
each  always  in  its  own  tub,  according  to  the 
quantity  of  oil  which  it  is  desired  to  fix  on 
the  goods.  If  the  bath  begins  to  fail,  either 
a  little  tepid  water  is  added,  or  a  certain 
quantity  of  old  white  liquor  proceeding  from 
the  washings. 

The  next  stage  is  to  remove  superfluous 
oil;  this  is  done  by  macerating  the  goods 
twice,  successively,  for  24  hours  each  time, 
in  a  solution  of  carbonate  of  potassa  at  1° 
Baume.  The  liquid  which  is  wrung  or 
pressed  out  of  them  constitutes  the  old  white 
liquor,  which  may  be  employed  again  for 
filling  up  in  the  oiling  operation.  The  goods 
are  then  carefully  rinsed. 

The  third  process  is  galling  or  mordanting. 
Bruise  22  pounds  gall-nuts,  and  boil  repeat- 
edly until  thoroughly  drawn ;  add  sufficient 
water  to  make  up  to  66  gallons ;  dissolve  in 
this  35  pounds  alum  with  the  assistance  of 
heat.  This  is  sufficient  for  working  one-half, 
that  is,  1100  pounds  of  the  cotton,  which 
must  be  padded  in  the  liquid  at  a  temperature 
of  about  160°  Fahr.;  it  is  next  suspended  for 
2  days  in  a  drying-room  heated  to  112°  Fahr., 
and  then  passed  into  a  hot  concentrated  bath 
of  chalk.  Care  must  be  taken  to  work  the 


goods  very  equally  in  this  bath,  in  order  to 
avoid  streaking.  The  goods  are  then  washed, 
and  present  a  fawn-colored  appearance. 

The  fourth  step  is  the  first  dyeing.  This  is 
performed  on  10  pieces  at  a  time,  the  propor- 
tions of  madder  varying  according  to  the 
breadth  and  length  of  the  pieces,  from  13,  15, 
17  to  20  pounds  madder  for  each  piece.  As 
in  the  preceding  process,  the  madder  is 
divided  into  two  equal  portions,  one  portion 
being  used  for  the  first  dyeing,  and  the  other 
portion  reserved  for  the  second  dyeing.  The 
one  portion  is  mixed  with  the  requisite  quan- 
tity of  water,  from  300  to  400  gallons ;  the  10 
pieces  are  introduced  into  this  bath  at  a  tepid 
heat,  and  kept  in  it  3  hours,  the  temperature 
being  gradually  increased,  until,  at  the  end  of 
2f  hours,  boiling  point  is  reached ;  and  this 
heat  is  sustained  for  the  remaining  J  hour. 
The  goods  must  then  be  washed,  thoroughly 
cleansed,  rinsed  and  dried. 

The  fifth  stage  is  the  second  galling  ;  which 
is  prepared  in  the  same  gall  liquid,  and  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  first  galling,  finishing 
with  the  chalk  bath,  washing  and  drying. 

The  sixth  operation  is  the  second  dyeing,  an 
exact  repetition  of  the  first  dyeing,  using  the 
remaining  half  of  the  madder  reserved  for  this 
purpose. 

The  seventh  step,  first  clearing,  is  per- 
formed in  a  close  boiler,  two-thirds  filled  with 
water  containing  in  solution  13  pounds  soap, 
and  3£  pounds  carbonate  of  potassa;  the 
goods  are  boiled  in  this  for  8  hours. 

The  eighth  process  is  a  second  clearing,  con- 
ducted in  the  same  manner  as  the  first  clear- 
ing, but  dissolving  in  the  water  14£  pounds 
soap,  and  14  ounces  chloride  of  tin  instead  of 
the  potassa  solution. 

For  only  very  lively  reds  a  third  clearing, 
similar  to  the  second,  is  required.  The  goods, 
after  clearing,  are  exposed  for  some  time  in 
the  air;  then  worked  through  a  bran  bath, 
which  adds  to  the  brightness  of  the  color. 

The  process  here  described  is  slightly  modi- 
fied by  some  French  dyers ;  thus,  experience 
proves  that  the  oil  is  better  fixed  in  the  stuff 
when  the  drying  is  not  performed  too  rapidly; 
and  there  are  some  who,  when  the  season 
does  not  admit  of  exposure  to  the  air,  heap 
the  pieces  together,  after  oiling,  in  a  drying- 
room  heated  to  95°  Fahr.,  turning  them  over 
from  time  to  time  to  prevent  injury  from 
overheating.  Some  use  ox-blood  in  the  pro- 
portion of  40  pounds  blood  to  100  pounds 
madder. 

190.  Violet.    Dye  a  turkey  red  (see  No. 
189),  and  then  pass  through  the  blue  vat. 
(See  No.  130.) 

191.  Preparation    and    Dyeing    of 
Woolens.     To  prepare  new  woolen  goods 
for  dyeing,  the  cloth  dr  yarn  (if  the  latter,  it 
is  first  banded  with  twine  into  spindles,  see 
No.  122,)  is  steeped  over  night  in  soap  lye, 
and  then  scoured  through  clean  soap  to  re- 
move all  oil  or  grease  that  may  be  upon  the 
wool.    Instead  of  soap,  a  scouring  mixture 
may  be  prepared  with  1  pound  soft  soap  and 
1  pound  common  soda  (or  |  pound  soda-ash), 
in  10  gallons  water. 

Goods  to  be  re-dyed  must  first  be  steeped 
and  scoured  in  soap  and  soda.  If  the  re- 
maining color  be  unequal  or  dark,  the  goods 
must  be  worked  for  a  short  time  in  a  sour, 


THE   ART    OF   DYEING. 


made  by  dissolving  2  ounces  bisulphate  of 
potassa  in  each  gallon  of  water  used.  Woolen 
goods  are  always  dyed  hot,  as  near  boiling 
point  as  possible ;  this  necessitates  the  use  of 
boilers,  which  should  be  of  copper,  or  copper 
and  tin,  as  iron  will  not  answer  the  purpose. 
The  dye-stuffs  are  generally  put  in  the  boiler, 
and  the  goods  worked  with  it,  but  it  is  cleaner 
to  make  decoctions  (see  No.  94),  and  use  the 
clear  liquor.  All  washings  are  to  be  in  cold 
water  unless  otherwise  specified.  The  quan- 
tities given  in  the  following  receipts  are  for 
dyeing  10  pounds  of  woolen  goods,  either 
cloth  or  yarn,  unless  otherwise  specified. 

192.  Black.     "Work  for  20  minutes  in  a 
bath  with  8  ounces  camwood ;  lift,  and  add  8 
ounces  copperas ;  work  20  minutes  more,  then 
withdraw  the  fire  from  the  boiler,  and  sub- 
merge the  goods  in  the  liquor  over  night, 
then  wash  out.    "Work  for  an  hour  in  another 
bath  containing  a  decoction  of  5  pounds  log- 
wood and  1  pint  chamber  lye ;  lift,  and  add 

4  ounces  copperas ;  work  for  30  minutes  long- 
er, wash  and  dry. 

193.  Brown.    "Work  for  an  hour  in  a 
bath  made  up  with  2  pounds  fustic,  2  pounds 
madder,  1  pound  peachwood,  and  4  ounces  of 
logwood;  lift,  and  add  2  ounces  copperas; 
work  for  30  minutes,  wash  and  dry. 

194.  Brown  Dye.     The  different  shades 
of  this  dye  vary  from  pale  yellow  and  reddish 
brown  up  to  very  dark  brown,  almost  black, 
every  shade  of  which,  however,  may  be  pro- 
duced, as  the  taste  of  the  workman  may  dic- 
tate, by  mixtures  of  reds  and  yellows  with 
blues  and  blacks,  or  by  simple  dyes,  which  at 
once  impart  a  brown, — as  catechu,  walnut 
rinds,  or  oxide  of  manganese. 

Boil  the  cloth  in  a  mordant  of  alum  and 
common  salt  dissolved  in  water,  then  dye  it 
in  a  bath  of  logwood,  to  which  a  little  green 
copperas  has  been  added.  The  proportion  of 
alum  should  be  2  ounces,  and  of  salt  1  ounce, 
to  every  pound  of  cloth. 

Or  boil  the  goods  in  a  mordant  of  alum 
and  sulphate  of  iron,  then  rinse  them  through 
a  bath  of  madder.  The  tint  depends  on  the 
relative  proportions  of  the  alum  and  copperas; 
the  more  of  the  latter,  the  darker  will  be  the 
dye.  The  joint  weight  of  the  two  should  not 
exceed  £  of  the  weight  of  the  wool.  The  best 
proportions  are  2  parts  of  alum  and  3  of  cop- 
peras. 

For  other  receipts  for  dyeing  black  and 
brown  see  Index. 

195.  Crimson.     "Work  in  a  bath  for  one 
hour  with  1  pound  cochineal  paste,  6  ounces 
dry  cochineal,  1  pound  tartar,  and  1  pint  pro- 
tochloride  (single  chloride)  of  tin;  wash  out 
and  dry. 

196.  Scarlet.    Work  for  an  hour  in  a 
bath  with  1  pound  tartar,  2  ounces  dry  cochi- 
neal, 8  ounces  sumach  and  8  ounces  fustic ; 
wash  out  and  dry. 

197.  Bed.     "Work  for  30  minutes  in  a 
bath  made  up  with  1  ounce  chrome  and  1 
ounce  alum ;  wash  in  cold  water ;  then  work 
for  30  minutes  in  another  bath  with  three 
pounds  peachwood  or  limawood;  lift,  and  add 
1  ounce  alum ;  work  for  20  minutes ;  wash 
and  dry. 

198.  Claret  Red.    Work  for  an  hour  in 

5  ounces  camwood ;  lift,  and  expose  the  goods 
until  well  drained  and  cold ;  meanwhile,  add 


to  the  camwood  bath  4  ounces  copperas,  2 
ounces  alum,  and  8  ounces  logwood;  work 
the  goods  for  30  minutes,  wash  and  dry. 

199.  Scarlet.     For  every  100  pounds  of 
fabric,  boil,  in  a  suitable  kettle,    11  pounds 
ground  Honduras  cochineal,  5  pounds  half-re- 
fined tartar  or  3  pounds  tartaric  acid,  2  pounds 
oxalic  acid,  1  pound  tin  crystals,  1£  pounds 
flavine,  10  pounds  scarlet  spirit  (see  below). 
After  it  has  boiled  for  about  fifteen  minutes, 
cool  the  dye  to  180°   Fah.,  enter  the  goods, 
handle  them  quickly  at  first,  and  let  them 
boil  slowly  for  1  hour,  when  they  will  be  a 
good  scarlet.     Take  them  out,  cool,  and  rinse 
in  cold  water.     If  it  should  happen  that  the 
wool  or  flannel  shows  some  white  hair,  which 
is  generally  the  case  when  new  wool  is  used, 
then  add  5  pounds  of  raw  muriatic  acid  to  the 
dye.    This  powerful  agent  will  work  wonders 
in  scarlets,  oranges,  and  pinks,  as  it  tans  the 
wool,  which  is  perhaps  a  little  greasy,  and  pre- 
vents the  tin  crystals    from   fastening    too 
quickly  to  it,  and  thereby  evener  colors  are 
obtained.    This  latter  fact  is  very  valuable, 
and  not  generally  known. 

Scarlet  spirit  is  thus  prepared :  Take  16 
pounds  muriatic  acid  22°  Baume,  1  pound 
feathered  tin,  2  pounds  water.  The  acid 
should  be  put  in  a  stoneware  pot,  and  the  tin 
added,  and  allowed  to  dissolve;  the  mixture, 
should  be  kept  a  few  days  before  using. 

200.  Lac  Scarlet.   Work  for  30  minutes 
in  a  bath  with  1  pound  tartar,  8  ounces  su- 
mach, and  2  pounds  lac ;  lift,  and  add  about  a 
gill  of  bichloride  of  tin ;  work  for  30  minutes, 
wash  and  dry. 

201.  Pink.     Work  for  an  hour  in  a  bath 
made  up  with  1  pound  tartar,  8  ounces  alum, 
1  pound  cochineal  paste,  and  1  gill  red  spirits 
(see  No.  108) ;  wash  in  cold  water  and  dry. 

202.  Yellow.     Work  for  20  minutes  in  a 
bath  of  water  containing  8  ounces  tartar  and 
8  ounces  alum ;  lift,  and  add  2  pounds  bark, 
8  ounces  sumach,  8  ounces  fustic,  and  1  pint 
red  spirits  (see  No.  108) ;  work  in  this  for  40 
minutes,  wash  out  and  dry. 

203.  Orange.     Work  for  40  minutes  in  2 
pounds   sumach,   3  ounces  dry  cochineal,  1 
pound  fustic,  8  ounces  tartar,  and  1  pint  red 
spirits  (see  No.  108) ;  wash  and  dry. 

204.  Sky  Blue.     Work  for  30  minutes 
in  a  bath  containing  8  ounces  argol,  1  pound 
alum,  and  1  gill  indigo  extract  (see  No.  99) ; 
wash  out  and  dry.    The  shade  of  blue  will  de- 
pend on  the  quantity  of  indigo  extract  used. 

For  other  shades  of  blue  see  Index. 

205.  Pigeon  Blue.     Work  for  40  min- 
utes in  2  ounces  chrome  (bichromate  of  potash), 
4  ounces  alum,  and  1  ounce  tartar ;  wash  out 
in  cold  water,  and  then  work  for  30  minutes 
in  another  bath  made  up  with  3  pounds  log- 
wood ;  lift,  and  add  1  ounce  verdigris ;  work 
for  15  minutes,  wash  and  dry. 

206.  Apple  Green.     Work  for  30  min- 
utes in  a  bath  with  one  ounce  chrome  and  1 
ounce  alum ;  wash  through  cold  water,  then 
work  for  30  minutes  ,  in  another  bath  with  2 
pounds  fustic  and  8  ounces  logwood;  wash 
and  dry.     Different  proportions  of  the  mate- 
rials used  will  produce  different  shades. 

207.  Green.    Work  for  15  minutes  in  5 
pounds  fustic,  2  ounces  argol,  and  5  ounces 
alum ;  lift,  and  add  £  gill  of  indigo  extract 
(see  No.  99) ;  work  for  30  minutes  and  dry. 


THE    ART    OF   DYEING. 


4:1 


More  or  less  indigo  extract  will  make  the 
green  bluer  or  yellower,  as  required. 

208.  Fast  Green.     First  dye  a  blue  in 
the  indigo  vat  (see  No.  130)  according  to  the 
depth  01  the  green  required;  then  work  for 
an  hour  in  a  bath  with  4  pounds  fustic  and  2 
pounds  alum ;  dry  out. 

209.  Olive.     Work  for  an  hour  in  a  bath 
made  up  with  10  ounces  fustic,  8  ounces  log- 
wood, 4  ounces  madder,  and  2  ounces  peach- 
wood  •;  lift,  and  add  4  ounces  copperas  in  so- 
lution ;  work  for  30  minutes  and  dry. 

210.  Wine  Color.     "Work  for  an  hour  in 
a  bath  with  4  pounds  cudbear,  and  dry.    For 
a  darker  shade  use  more  cudbear.    If  the  tint 
be  desired  bluer,  add,  after  30  minutes  work- 
ing,  1    gill  ammonia;    if  a    redder  tint   is 
wanted,  add  a  wine-glassful  of  hydrochloric 
acid ;  but  if  this  last  be  used,  the  goods  must 
be  washed  out  before  drying. 

211.  Light  Violet.     Work  for  an  hour 
in  a  bath  with  4  ounces  cudbear,  4  ounces 
logwood,  2  ounces  barwood  or  camwood,  and 
2  ounces  psachwood ;  lift,  and  add  2  ounces 
alum  in  solution,  work  for  30  minutes  and 
dry. 

212.  Lilac  or  Puce.     "Work  in  a  bath 
for  one  hour  with  10  ounces  logwood,  1  ounce 
camwood  and  8  pounds  cudbear ;  lift,  and  add 
2  ounces  copperas  in  solution ;  work  for  half 
an  hour  and  dry. 

213.  Brown  Drab.     "Work  for  30  min- 
utes in  a  bath  with  2  ounces  ground  madder, 
1  ounce  peachwood,  2  ounces  logwood,  and 
6  ounces  fustic ;  lift,  and  add  3  ounces  cop- 
peras in  solution;   mix  well  and  work   the 
goods  for  30  minutes  more ;   then  wash  and 
dry.      The  shade  can  be  adjusted  to    suit, 
varying  the  quantities  and  proportions  of  the 
dye-woods. 

214.  PropertiesofDye-woods.  Peach- 
wood  reddens,  madder  gives  the  drab  tint, 
fustic  supplies  yellowness,  and  logwood  in- 
duces a  slate  hue. 

215.  Stone  Drab.     "Work  the  goods  for 
20  minutes  in  a  bath    containing    1   ounce 
peachwood  or  limawood,  2  ounces  logwood 
and  %  ounce  fustic ;  lift,  and  add  1  ounce  cop- 
peras in  solution ;  stir  well  and  work  in  this 
for  30  minutes';  lift  out  and  expose  to  the  air 
for  a  short  time ;   wash  and  dry.    Different 
shades  are  made  by  varying  the  quantities  of 
the  dye-woods.     (See  last  receipt.) 

216.  Slate.     Work  for  half  an  hour  in  a 
bath  with  8  ounces  logwood  and  1  ounce  fus- 
tic ;  lift,  and  add  1  ounce  alum  and  ^  ounce 
copperas  in  solution ;  work  for  half  an  hour ; 
wash  and  dry.     For  a  bluer  tint,  use  less  alum 
and  more  copperas ;  for  more  purple,  use  less 
fustic  and  more  alum,  &c. 

217.  Blue.     Dyeing  woolens  blue  is  per- 
formed by  dipping  in  the  blue  vat  (see  No. 
130),  and  then  exposing  to  the  air,  repeating 
the  operation  till  the  desired  depth  of  color  is 
obtained. 

218.  Blue  Purple.     100    pounds   wool 
are  first  dipped  a  light  blue  in  the  vat,  and 
well  rinsed.     Then  take  a  stone  pot,  put  in  3 
pounds    tartar,    3    pounds    feathered    tin,   5 
pounds  blue  vitriol,  and  20  pounds  muriatic 
acid ;  heat  all  in  a  sand  bath  until  dissolved. 

From  this  mordant  take  10  pounds  in  a  suit- 
able kettle;  add  5  pounds  tartar  to  it,  stir  it 
well,  and  enter  the  wool  at  170°  Fahr.;  let  it 


boil  for  1  hour ;  take  it  out,  cool,  and  let  it 
lay  for  24  hours.  Then  boil  out  20  pounds 
good  logwood  for  f  hour  in  fresh  water ;  cool 
off  the  kettle  to  150°  Fahr.,  enter  the  wool, 
and  handle  it  well  for  an  hour,  then  heat  it 
up  to  185°  Fahr.,  but  do  not  let  it  boil ;  let  it 
go  for  1  hour  more,  when  it  will  be  a  dark 
purple.  This  color  stands  the  sun  remarkably 
well,  perhaps  owing  to  the  fact  that  there  is 
not  any  alum  or  sulphuric  acid  used,  except 
that  contained  in  the  blue  vitriol. 

219.  Blue  Purple,  Fast   Color.    100 
pounds  of  wool  are  first  dipped  in  the  blue 
vat  to  a  light  shade,  then  boiled  in  a  solution 
of  15  pounds  alum,  and  3  pounds  half-refined 
tartar,  for  1-J-  hours;    the  wool   taken  out, 
cooled,  and  let  stand  24  hours.    Then  boil  in 
fresh  water  8  pounds  powdered  cochineal,  for 
a  few  minutes ;  cool  the  kettle  to  170°  Fahr.; 
handle  the  prepared  wool  in  this  for  1  hour, 
in  which  time  let  it  boil  for  f  hour,  when  it  is 
ready  to  cool,  rinse,  and  dry.    By  coloring 
first  with  cochineal,  as  above,  and  finishing 
in  the  blue  vat,  the  fast  purple,  or  dahlia,  so 
much  admired  in  German  broadcloths,  will  be 
produced. 

220.  Royal   Blue   Dye   for   Woolen 
Goods.     Woolens  may    be    dyed    different 
shades  of  blue  with  nitrate  of  iron,  observing 
the  general  rule  that  woolens  must  be  worked 
at  a  boiling  heat. 

To  dye  5  pounds  of  woolen  goods — work 
for  20  minutes  in  a  bath  with  1  pound  ferro- 
cyanide  of  potassium,  and  lift;  then  take  $ 
pint  nitrate  of  iron  and  add  to  it  1  ounce  crys- 
tals of  tin  (or  1  pint  chloride  of  tin);  stir 
well  for  a  few  minutes  and  then  add  this  mix- 
ture to  the  bath,  and  work  the  goods  in  this 
for  30  minutes ;  wash  out  and  dry.  For  vari- 
ous shades  of  color,  increase  or  diminish  the 
quantities  in  proportion. 

221.  Chrome  Dyes  for  Woolen  Goods. 
The  quantities  given  in  the  following  receipts 
are  for  dyeing  5  pounds  of  woolen  goods,  un- 
less otherwise  stated.    It  must  be  understood 
that  the  goods  must  be  cleaned  before  dye- 
ing, and  the  dyeihg  must  always  be  performed 
at  a  boiling  heat. 

222.  Black.     Work  for  1  hour  in  a  bath 
with'  8    ounces    bichromate    of    potassa,   6 
ounces  alum,  and  4  ounces  fustic;  lift,  and 
expose  to  the  air  for  a  short  time ;  wash  well, 
and  then  work  for  1  hour  in  another  bath  with 
4  pounds  logwood,  4  ounces  barwood,  and 
4  ounces  fustic ;  lift,  and  add  4  ounces  cop- 
peras in  solution ;  work  half  an  hour  in  this, 
and  then  wash  and  dry.    In  order  to  dye  a 
blue  black,  the  goods  must  be  first  dyed  blue 
by  the  vat  (see  No.  130)  or  otherwise,  and  then 
proceeded  with  as  for  black,  only  using  less  ma- 
terials. 

223.  Brown.    Work  for  half  an  hour  in 
8  ounces  of  bichromate  of  potassa ;  lift,  and 
expose  till  cold;   then  work  an  hour  in  2 
pounds  fustic,  4  ounces  madder,  3  ounces  cud- 
bear, 4  ounces  tartar,  2  ounces  logwood ;  lift 
out  and  dry;  or  it  may  be  washed  before  dry- 
ing 

224.  Rich  Yellow  Brown.    Work  for 
an  hour  in  the  following  bath :  2  ounces  bi- 
chromate of  potassa,  2  ounces  argol,  2  ounces 
alum ;  wash  from  this  bath ;  then  work  about 
40  minutes  in  another  bath  made  up  with  2 
pounds  fustic,  1   pound   madder,  8  ounces 


4:2 


THE   ART    OF  DYEING. 


peachwood,  and  4  ounces  logwood ;  wash  out 
and  dry.  This  gives  a  very  beautiful  brown ; 
and  a  great  variety  of  tints  and  shades  may 
be  made  by  varying  the  quantities  of  the  last 
bath,  the  first  bath  remaining  the  same. 

225.  Rich  Yellow.     Work  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  bath  with  3  ounces  bichromate  of 
potassa  and  2  ounces  alum ;  lift,  and  expose 
till  well  cooled 'and  drained;  then  work  for 
^  hour  in  another  bath  with  5  pounds  fustic ; 
wash  out  and  dry. 

226.  Bottle  Green.  •  Work  for  an  hour 
in  a.  bath  with  2  ounces  bichromate  of  po- 
tassa and  4  ounces  alum ;  lift  out  and  expose 
to  the  air  till  cold;  then  work  for  an  hour  in 
a  second  bath  with  3  pounds  fustic,  !•$•  pounds 
logwood ;  wash  out  and  dry. 

227.  Invisible  Green.    Work    for   an 
hour  in  a  bath  with  3  ounces  bichromate  of 
potassa,  4  ounces  alum;  lift,  and  expose  to 
the  air  for  some  time ;  then  work  for  an  hour 
in  a  second  bath  with  2  pounds  fustic,  3£ 
pounds  logwood;    wash  out   and    dry.    By 
comparing  these  last  two  receipts  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  different  shades  are  produced  by 
varying  the  proportions  of  the  same  dye-stuffs, 
and  will  serve  as  a  guide  for  other  shades  of 
dark  green. 

228.  Olive.     Work  for  an  hour  in  a  bath 
with  4  ounces  chrome,  2  ounces  alum;   lift 
and  expose  to  the  air ;  then  work  for  an  hour 
in  a  bath  with  3  pounds  fustic,  1£  pounds 
camwood,  1  pound  logwood  ;  lift  out  and  dry. 

229.  Purple.     Work  the  goods  half  an 
hour  in  a  bath  with  1  ounce  bichromate  of 
potassa,  1  ounce  alum ;  lift  out  and  wash  in 
cold  water ;  and  then  work  half  an  hour  in  a 
bath  with  2  pounds  logwood,  1  pound  peach- 
wood  ;  lift,  and  add  1  ounce  alum  in  solution ; 
work  in  this  for  20  minutes ;  wash  and  dry. 
If  a  lighter  and  redder  shade  be  required,  use 
less  logwood  and  more  peachwood.    For  a 
darker  shade  use  more  of  each. 

230.  Rich    Green   Drab.    Work    the 
goods  30  minutes  in  a  bath  with  1  ounce 
bichromate  of  potassa,  %  ounce  alum,  £  ounce 
tartar ;  lift  out  and  wash  in  cold  water ;  then 
work  for  half  an  hour  in  another  bath  with 
4  ounces  logwood,  2  ounces  fustic,  1  ounce 
barwood  (or  |  ounce  peachwood) ;  wash  and 
dry.    The  shades  of  this  can  be  varied  by 
using  different  proportions  of  the  stuffs. 

231.  Rich  Drab.    Work  for  30  minutes 
in  -J  ounce  bichromate  of  potassa;   lift,  and 
add  1  ounce  of  logwood ;  work  in  this  for  30 
minutes;   lift  out,  wash  and  dry.    Different 
proportions  will  produce  different  shades  of 
color. 

232.  Chrome  Blue.      100    pounds    of 
wool  are  boiled  for  one  hour  in  a  solution  of 
3  pounds  bichromate  of  potash,  6  pounds 
alum,  1  pound  half-refined  tartar ;  then  it  is 
taken  out,  cooled,  and  rinsed.    Boil  6  pounds 
good  logwood  in  a  bag  for  half  an  hour  in 
fresh    water,   add    3    pounds   cudbear,  well 
moistened  and  dissolved.     Cool  the  dye  to 
180°  Fahr.     Enter  the  prepared  wool,  and 
handle  it  for  f  of  an  hour ;  bring  it  to  a  boil 
in  this  time.    This  color  ought  to  be  always 
left  a  shade   lighter  when   finished,  as  all 
chrome  colors  darken  in  drying. 

In  the  foregoing  receipts,  the  quantity  of 
water  to  be  used  is  not  material,  but  will  be 
regulated  according  to  the  size  of  the  vessel 


and  the  amount  of  goods  to  be  dyed,  but  there 
should  always  be  enough  water  to  cover  the 
goods  without  the  necessity  of  pressing  them 
down. 

Rules  for  making  decoctions,  &c.,  will  be 
found  in  No.  94. 

233.  Preparing    and    Dyeing  Silk. 
New  silk  is  banded  in  the  same  m'anner  as 
cotton  (see  No.  122),  in  quantities  convenient 
for  making  up  into  skeins  when    finished. 
After  banding,  it  is  tied  up  carefully  in  fine 
canvas  bags  and  boiled  three  or  four  hours  in 
strong  soap- water  to  remove  all  the  gum. 
Yellow  silk  must  be  first  worked  on  sticks  for 
an  hour  in  a  solution  of  soft  soap  at  a  temper- 
ature of  about  200°  Fahr.,  and  then  boiled  in 
bags.    It  is  then  washed  from  the  soap  and 
put  on  sticks  for  dyeing. 

Silk  goods  to  be  re-dyed  must  be  steeped  in 
a  strong  soap  solution  at  nearly  boiling  point 
for  a  few  hours,  to  remove  all  stains  and 
grease ;  they  are  then  washed,  and  if  the  color 
on  them  is  light  and  equal,  and  they  are  to  be 
dyed  dark,  then  no  further  preparation  is  re- 
quired ;  but  if  the  color  is  unequal,  they  must 
be  soaked  for  15  minutes  in  a  sour  (see  No. 
105),  and  then  washed  out. 

The  quantities  given  in  the  following  re- 
ceipts are  for  five  pounds  of  silk.  If  the 
goods  are  tightly  spun,  such  as  ribbons,  dress 
silk,  <fec.,  the  quantities  must  be  slightly  in- 
creased. 

There  must  be  sufficient  water  used  to 
cover  the  goods  laying  loosely.  When  goods 
are  washed  from  the  dye,  it  is  always  to  be  in 
cold  water,  unless  otherwise  stated. 

234.  Black.      Work  for  an  hour  in  a 
solution  of  8  ounces  copperas ;  wash  well  out 
in  cold  water ;  then  work  in  a  decoction  of  4 
pounds  logwood,  adding  to  it  \  pint  chamber 
lye ;  lift,  and  add  2  ounces  copperas  in  solu- 
tion ;  work  15  minutes,  wash  and  dry. 

This  gives  a  good  black,  but  not  very  deep. 

235.  Deep  Black.    Work  for  an  hour 
in  a  solution  of  8  ounces  copperas  (sulphate 
of  iron),  and  2  fluid  ounces  nitrate  of  iron : 
and,  after  washing  out,  work  in  the  decoction 
of  logwood  and  chamber  lye,  as  in  the  last  re- 
ceipt, finishing  as  there  directed. 

236.  Blue  Black.     If  a  blue  black  is  re- 
quired, follow  the  same  directions,  but  add  a 
little  white  soap,  instead  of  the  chamber  lye, 
to  the  logwood  decoction,  and  add  no  copper- 
as after  lifting. 

237.  Full   Deep   Black.     Work  for  1 
hour  in  a  solution  of  1  pound  copperas  and  2 
ounces  nitrate  of  iron;  wash  out,  and  work 
for  an  hour  in  a  decoction  of  5  pounds  log- 
wood and  1  pound  fustic;    lift,  and  add  2 
ounces  copperas,  and  work  10  minutes ;  wash 
and  finish.    If  the  color  is  not  deep  enough, 
add  a  little  more  logwood  before  lifting. 

238.  French  Black.     Work  for  an  hour 
in  a  solution  of   1  pound  copperas  and    4 
ounces  alum ;  wash  out  well,  then  work  for 
an  hour  in  a  decoction  of  4  pounds  logwood, 
with  a  little  white  soap  added ;  wash  out  and 
finish. 

239.  Blue  Black  by  Prussiate.    Dye 
a  deep   Prussian   blue  according  to  receipt 
No.  131,  and  work,  from  the   prussiate,  for 
half  an  hour,  in  8  ounces  copperas ;  wash  well 
out  in  cold  water,  and  then  work  for  half  an 
hour  in  a  decoction  of  2  pounds  logwood.- 


THE   ART    OF  DYEING. 


4,3 


lift,  and  add  a  little  of  the  copperas  solution 
first  used,  then  work  for  10  minutes  more ; 
wash  and  dry. 

240.  Deep  Hat  Black.    "Work  for  15 
minutes  in  a  decoction  of  2  pounds  fustic  and 
1  pound  bark ;  lift,  and  add  6  ounces  acetate 
of  copper  and  6  ounces  copperas  in  solution ; 
work  for  15  minutes  more ;  then  sink  the  silk 
below  the  surface  and  let  it  steep  over  night ; 
lift  out  and  wash ;  then,  to  a  decoction  of  5 
pounds  logwood,  add  white  soap  sufficient  to 
make  a  lather,  and  work  the  silk  in  it  for  an 
hour ;  wash  out  and  dry. 

241.  Brown.      Dye  an  annotto  orange 
(see  No.  159) ;  then  work  for  20  minutes  in  a 
decoction  of  3  pounds  fustic,  8  ounces  sumach 
and  8  ounces   peachwood ;   lift,   and  add 
ounces  copperas  in  solution,  and  work  for  15 
minutes ;  wash  out  in  two  waters,  adding  -J-  pint 
alum  solution  in  the  last  water.     If  the  par- 
ticular tint  is  not  obtained,  it  may  be  given  in 
the  last    alum-wash    by  adding  as  follows : 
for  yellowness,  a  little  fustic;  for  redness,  a 
little  peachwood ;  for  depth  or  blueness,  log- 
wood.    A  number  of  different  tints  of  brown 
may  be  obtained  by  varying  the  proportions 
of  fustic,  sumach  and  peachwood.    A  great 
many  particular  hues  of  brown  may  be  dyed 
by  this  method ;   for  instance,  by  using  only 
fustic  and  sumach  in  the  second  operation,  a 
California  brown  is  obtained,  &c.    So  that 
any  intelligent  person  may  regulate  his  colors 
and  tints. 

242.  Red  Brown.     Dye  a  deep  annotto 
orange  (see  No.  159) ;  then  work  for  15  min- 
utes in  plumb  liquor  (see  No.  Ill) ;  wash  well 
and  dry.     Particular  tints  can  be  made  by 
adding  fustic,  peachwood  or  logwood  to  the 
last  washing,  as  described  in  the  last  receipt. 

243.  Red  Brown.      Steep  the  silk  for 
an  hour  in  a  solution  of  8  ounces  alum  to 
each  gallon  water,  then  wash  out  in  warm 
water ;  next,  work  half  an  hour  in  a  decoction 
of  1£  pounds  fustic,  H  pounds  peachwood,  and 
8  ounces  logwood ;  lift,  and  add  1  pint  of  the 
alum  solution;  work  10  minutes,  wash   and 
dry. 

244.  Chocolate  Brown.     Steep  the  silk 
for  an  hour  in  a  solution  of  1  pound  alum  to 
each  gallon  of  water;   wash  once  in  warm 
water,  and  then  work  for  half  an  hour  in  a 
decoction   of  3    pounds    peachwood    and    1 
pound  logwood ;  lift,  and  add  1  pint  of  the 
alum  solution,  work  again  for  15  minutes; 
wash  out  and  dry. 

For  deeper  shades  use  less  peachwood  and 
more  logwood;  for  a  still  deeper  tint,  add 
about  4  ounces  fustic. 

245.  Bronze    Brown.     Work  for  half 
an  hour  in  a  decoction  of  8  ounces  fustic,  to 
which  4  fluid  ounces  of  archil  liquor  has  been 
added;    lift,   and  add  2  ounces   solution  of 
copperas ;  work  15  minutes,  wash  and  finish. 

246.  Cochineal    Crimson.      To  every 

fallon  of  water  used,  add  about  2  fluid  ounces 
ichloride  (oxychloride)  of  tin,  allow  any  sed- 
iment to  settle,  and  warm  the  clear  solution ; 
work  the  silk  in  this  for  an  hour  or  more. 
Boil  2  pounds  cochineal  by  suspending  it  in  a 
bag  on  the  surface  of  some  water;  add  this  to 
a  quantity  of  water  sufficient  for  working  the 
goods,  and  bring  it  to  a  blood  heat.  "Wring 
the  silk  from  the  tin  solution  and  work  it  in 
the  cochineal  solution  for  \  hour ;  then  let  it 


steep  for  several  hours  well  under  the  liquor ; 
wash  out  well  in  cold  water.  If  the  shade  is 
not  blue  enough,  add  to  the  water  a  little 
cochineal  dissolved  in  ammonia;  work  in  it  for 
10  minutes,  wring  out  and  dry. 

247.  Common  Red.     Work  the  goods 
for  15  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  2  pounds 
peachwood  and  1  pound  fustic ;  lift,  and  add 
4  fluid  ounces    red    spirits   (see   No.    108) ; 
work  for  15  minutes,  wash  in  cold  water  and 
finish. 

Different  shades  are  made  by  varying  the 
proportions,  and  claret  tints  are  obtained  by 
adding  a  little  logwood.  These  common  dyes 
are  apt  to  fade. 

248.  Cochineal  Pink.     This  is  dyed  in 
the  same  manner  as  cochineal  crimson  (see 
No.  246),  using  -much  less  cochineal ;  about 
half  a  pound  makes  a  good  pink,  and  inter- 
mediate shades  are  produced  by  adjusting  the 
proportion  of  cochineal. 

249.  Cochineal    Scarlet.     First  dye  a 
deep  annotto  orange  (see  No.  159)  ;  then  dye 
a  cochineal  crimson  according  to  N"o.  246. 

250.  Mixture  for   Dyeing   Common 
Reds.     Make  a  strong  decoction  by  boiling  1 
pound  limawood  or  brazilwood  to  each  gal- 
lon of  water.     Let  the  wood  settle ;  decant 
the  liquor,  and  let  it  stand  to  cool  for  24  hours; 
decant  the  clear  liquor  and  add  ^  pint  plumb 
spirits  (see  No.  Ill)  to  every  gallon  of  liquor ; 
after  standing  a  few  hours  it  is  ready  for  use. 

251.  Common  Crimson.     Put  some  of 
the  common  red  mixture  (see  No.  250)  into  a 
copper  or  stoneware  vessel,  and  work   the 
goods  in  it  for  •£  an  hour;  then  wash  out  thor- 
oughly, wring  and  dry. 

252.  Common  Scarlet.     Dye  an  annot- 
to orange  (see  No.  159),  then  dye  a  common 
crimson  according  to  the  last  receipt. 

253.  Ruby,    Maroon,    &c.      Take    1 
pound  cudbear,  and  boil  in  a  bag  for  15  min- 
utes; and  work  the  silk  in  this  for  -J  an  hour. 

For  a  bluish  tint,  lift,  and  add  3  fluid  ounces 
liquid  ammonia ;  work  10  minutes,  wring  and 
dry. 

For  a  red  tint,  lift,  and  instead  of  the  am- 
monia, add  2  fluid  ounces  red  spirits  (see  No. 
108) ;  work  10  minutes,  wring  and  dry. 

For  a  brownish  hue,  make  a  decoction  of  1 
pound  cudbear  and  4  ounces  fustic ;  work  for 

an  hour ;  lift,  and  add  2  ounces  red  spir- 
its ;  work  for  10  minutes  and  finish. 

For  a  deep  violet  hue,  proceed  as  in  the  last 
receipt,  using  4  ounces  logwood  instead  of  the 
fustic. 

254.  Sky  Blue.     To  1  pint  sulphate  of 
indigo  add  2  or  3  gallons  boiling  water ;  steep 
in  this  a  piece  of  woolen  cloth,  such  as  an  old 
blanket,  for  a  day ;  take  it  out  and  wash  in 

old  water. 

If  the  sky  blue  is  required  to  be  light,  warm 
some  water  in  a  vessel  to  about  98°  Fahr., 
steep  the  woolen  cloth  in  it  for  a  few  minutes, 
and  wring  out ;  this  will  leave  sufficient  blue 
in  the  water  to  dye  the  silk ;  add  1  ounce 
alum  in  solution,  and  work  the  silk  in  it  for  20 
minutes ;  wring  out  and  dry. 

255.  Dark  Blue.     If  a  deep  blue  be  re- 
quired,  blue  the  water  as  before  with  the 
woolen  cloth,   add  1  ounce    pearlash;    then 
add  1  ounce  alum  in  solution,  with  a  few- 
drops  of  sulphuric  acid ;  then  work  the  silk  in 
it  as  before. 


4=4= 


THE   AET    OF  DYEING. 


Half  an  ounce  of  indigo  extract  (see  No. 
99)  may  be  used  for  bluing  the  water,  instead 
of  using  the  woolen  cloth  for  that  purpose. 
The  exact  quantity  of  indigo  extract  depends 
on  the  shade  of  blue  required. 

256.  Sky  Blue  Dye  for  Silks.      For 
5   pounds    of  silk    goods,    add  to  a    suffi- 
cient quantity  of  water  to  work  the  goods  $ 
pint  of  nitrate  of  iron ;  work  in  this  for  20 
minutes,  then  wash  out  in  cold  water.     Into 
another  vessel  of  cold  water  add  3  ounces 
ferrocyanide  of  potassium  in  solution,  and  1 
fluid  ounce  of  strong  sulphuric  acid;   work 
through  this  for  10  minutes,  then  wash  in 
cold  water  with  1  ounce  of  alum  dissolved  in 
it,  and  finish. 

257.  Royal  Blue.     Into  a  vessel  of  cold 
water  add  2  pints  nitrate  of  iron;  then  take  1 
pint  water  and  %  pint  of  hydrochloric  acid, 
and  add  to  it  3  ounces  crystals  of  tin ;  when 
dissolved,  add  this  (or  1  pint  chloride  of  tin) 
to  the  vessel  containing  the  iron;   stir  well 
and  work  the  goods  in  it  immediately  for  half 
an  hour.    Into  another  tub  dissolve  8  ounces 
of  the  ferrocyanide,  and  add  to  it  2  fluid  ounces 
of  sulphuric  acid ;  the  goods  are  wrung  out  of 
the  iron  solution,  and  put  directly  into  this 
second  vessel,  and  worked  for  15  minutes ; 
then  wash  out  in  cold  water  with  2  ounces  of 
alum  dissolved  in  it,  and  finish.    If  the  shade 
is  not  sufficiently  deep,  before  washing  them 
in  the  alum  water,  they  may  be  passed  through 
the  iron  solution,  and  the  ferrocyanide  solution, 
working  in  each  the  same  time  as  at  first,  only 
adding  2  ounces  more    ferrocyanide    before 
passing  the  goods  through  the  second  time ; 
then  finish  as  before  stated.     Deeper  shades 
are  obtained  by  using  more  iron  and  tin,  or 
by  repeating  the  dips.     Some  wash  out  the 
iron  solution  in  water  before  going  into  the 
ferrocyanide,  and  also  wash  it  again  in  clean 
water  before  putting  back  into  the  iron ;  the 
shade  will  not  be  so  deep,  but  there  is  less 
risk  of  an  unequal  color. 

258.  Bich  Deep  Blue  Dye  for  Silk 
Goods.     To  dye  5  pounds  of  silk  goods,  add 
to  the  water  required  to  work  the  silk,  2  pints 
chloride  of  iron  and  \  pint  double  muriate  or 
chloride  of  tin ;    work  in  this  half  an  hour; 
lift,  and  work  in  a  solution  of  8  ounces  ferro- 
cyanide  of  potassium;    if  the  color  be  not 
deep  enough,  repeat  the  operation  through 
both  solutions;    then  wash   out  in  water  in 
which  2  ounces  of  alum  have  been  dissolved. 

259.  Deep  Blue  Dye  for  "Woolen  Goods. 
To  dye  5  pounds  woolen  goods,  add  to  the 
requisite  quantity  of  water,  2  pints  chloride 
of  iron  and  1  pint  chloride  of  tin;  work  in  this 
for  half  an  hour;  lift,  and  work  half  an  hour 
in  a  bath  with  4  ounces  of  the  ferrocyanide. 
If  the  color  is  required  to  be  deeper,  repeat 
this  through  the  same  stuff,  adding  2  ounces 
more  ferrocyanide ;  then  wash  out  in  cold  wa- 
ter, and  dry. 

260.  Lavender.     Add  1  pint  plumb  li- 
quor (see  No.  Ill)  to  sufficient  water  to  work 
the  goods  easily ;  stir  well  and  work  in  this 
for  20  minutes,  then  wash  in  cold  water  and 
dry.     A  darker  or  lighter  tint  is  obtained  by 
using  more  or  less  plumb  liquor. 

If  a  blue  tint  is  required,  add  to  the  solution 
before  putting  in  the  goods,  2  or  3  drops  either 
of  sulphate,  or  of  extract  of  indigo.  (See 
Nos.  98  and  99). 


261.  Fine  Lavender.     Into  a  vessel  of 
water  as  hot  as  the  hand  can  bear,  dissolve  a 
little  white  soap — enough  to  raise  a  lather; 
then  add  1  gill  archil  liquor,  and  work  the 
goods  for  15  minutes,  wring  out  and  dry.     To 
obtain  a  redder  tint,  boil  1  ounce  cudbear, 
and  use  instead  of  the  archil  liquor.     A  still 
redder  tint  is  attainable  by  leaving  out  the 
soap  altogether. 

262.  Violet,  Lilac,  Wine  Color,  &c. 
"Work  the  goods  for  20  minutes  in  plumb  li- 
quor (see  No.  Ill)  in  a  copper  pan  or  stone- 
ware vessel ;   wash  out  repeatedly  until  the 
goods  cease  to  taste  of  the  liquor,  then  dry. 
To  obtain  a  rich  blue  shade,  add  to  the  plumb 
liquor  1  fluid  ounce  either  sulphate  or  extract 
of  indigo.    For  a  red  shade,  first  dye  a  laven- 
der by  cudbear  without  soap.     (See  No.  261.) 

263.  French  and  Pearl  White.     Dis- 
solve in  hot  water  sufficient  white  soap  to 
make  a  lather ;  then  add  ^  fluid  ounce  archil 
liquor;  work  the  goods  for  10  minutes,  and 
wash  out.    A  little  cudbear  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  archil,  less  or  more,  according  to  the 
shade  required. 

264.  French  and  Pearl  White.     Put 
1  fluid  ounce  plumb  liquor  (see  No.  Ill)  into 
a  vessel  of  cold  water ;  work  the  goods  in  it 
for  10  minutes;  wash  out  and  dry.     For  these 
shades  the  goods  must  be  perfectly  white 
(see  No.  233)  previous  to  dyeing. 

265.  Weld  Yellow.     Work  the  silk  for 
an  hour  in  a  solution  of  alum,  about  1  pound 
to  the  gallon ;  wring  out  and  wash  in  warm 
water.    Boil  2  pounds  weld,  strain  the  liquor, 
and  work  the  silk  in  it  for  30  minutes ;  lift, 
and  add  1  pint  of  the  alum  in  solution,  to  the 
weld  liquor ;  work  the  silk  10  minutes  longer, 
wring  out  and  dry. 

This  gives  a  rich  lemon  yellow;  deeper 
shades  are  made  by  using  more  weld  :  straw 
and  amber  tints  are  obtained  by  the'  use  of  a 
little  annotto. 

266.  Bark  Yellow.     The  process  is  the 
same  as  for    dyeing    weld   yellow,   using   2 
pounds  bark  instead  of  the  weld.     The  bark 
should  be  boiled  in  a  bag. 

267.  Deep  Rich  Yellow.     Proceed  as 
in  the  receipt  for  bark  yellow ;  except  that, 
after  lifting,  instead  of  a  pint  of  the  alum  so- 
lution, 2  fluid  ounces  single  chloride  of  tin 
are  added  to  the  bark  liquor ;  work  10  min- 
utes, wash  in  water,  and  finish  in  a  solution  of 
white  soap. 

268.  Gold  and  Straw.     To  warm  water 
containing  white  soap,  add  2  pints  annotto  li- 
quor (see  No.  95),  work  in  this  15  minutes  ; 
wash  out,  then  work  for  20  minutes  in  a  de- 
coction of  8  ounces  bark;   lift,  and   add   1 
fluid  ounce  red  spirits  (see  No.  108) ;  work 
10  minutes  more,  wash  out  and  finish.     Dif- 
ferent quantities  of  annotto  and  bark  produce 
different  shades. 

269.  Nankeen,  Buff,  &c.     Make  a  so- 
lution of  soap  in  warm  water,  add  to  it  1  pint 
annotto  liquor  (see  No.  95) ;  work  in  this  for 
20  minutes,  wring  put  and  finish;  a  deeper 
shade  is  obtained  by'  using  more  annotto. 

270.  Salmon,  "Flesh,  &c.     Dye  a  nan- 
keen according  to  the  previous  receipt,  and 
add  2  ounces  alum  in  solution  to  the  cold  wa- 
ter used  for  finishing. 

271.  Orange.     "Work  the  silk  for  15  min- 
utes in  a  strong  warm   solution  of  annotto 


THE   AET   OF   DYEING. 


(see  No.  95) ;  wash  out  in  warm  water  and 
dry. 

272.  Yellow  Drab.      Into  a  vessel  of 
warm  water  put  1  pint  annotto  liquor  (see 
No.  95);  work  for  15  minutes  and  wash;  then 
work  for  15  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  £  pound 
sumach  and  1  pound  fustic ;  lift,  and  add  4 
ounces  copperas  and  1  ounce  alum  in  solution; 
work  10  minutes,  wash  in  cold  water  and  dry. 
A  variety  of  drabs  may  be  dyed  in  this  way 
by  varying  the  proportions  of  the  sumach 
and  fustic,  and  by  introducing  a  little  logwood 
or  peach  wood. 

273.  Drab.    Work  for  15  minutes  in  a 
decoction  of  8  ounces  sumach  and  8  ounces 
fustic ;  lift,  and  add  4  ounces  copperas ;  work 
for  20  minutes,  and  wash  out  in  cold  water ; 
then  work  15  minutes  in  a  vessel  of  warm 
water  containing  £  pint  archil  liquor,  and  dry. 

274.  Greenish  Drab.      For  a  greenish 
drab,  add  to  the  archil  liquor  a  decoction  of  4 
ounces  fustic  and  •£  fluid  ounce  chemic.    (See 
No.  162). 

For  a  purple  tint,  use  1  ounce  alum  in  solu- 
tion, instead  of  the  chemic. 

275.  Slate  or  Stone  'Color.    Work  the 
silk  for  30  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  1  pound 
sumach,  4  ounces  fustic,  and  4  ounces  logwood; 
lift,  and  add  a  solution  of  4  ounces  copperas ; 
work  30  minutes  more,  wash  in  cold  water, 
and  finish. 

For  different  tints,  vary  the  proportion  of 
sumach,  <fcc. 

276.'  Common  Green.  Steep  for  an 
hour  in  a  solution  of  1  pound  alum  to  the 
gallon  of  water ;  wash  in  warm  water,  then 
work  for  30  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  6 
pounds  fustic ;  lift,  and  add  2  fluid  ounces  in- 
digo extract  (see  No.  99) ;  work  for  30  min- 
utes more,  wash  and  finish.  For  blue-green 
use  more  indigo  extract.  Darker  or  lighter 
shades  are  dyed  by  using  more  or  less  in  pro- 
portion of  each  ingredient. 

277.  Green.     Work  for  40  minutes  in  a 
decoction  of  4  pounds  fustic ;  lift,  and  add  1 

Sound  alum  in  solution,  and  2  fluid  ounces  in- 
igo  extract  (see  No.  99) ;  work  in  this  for  30 
minutes,  wash  out  in  cold  water  containing  £ 
pint  alum  solution,  and  finish. 

278.  Pea  Green.     Steep  for  an  hour  in  a 
solution  of  8  ounces  alum  to  the  gallon  of  wa- 
ter, then  wash  out  in  warm  water ;  boil  4 
pounds  ebony  wood  chips  for  an  hour ;  take 
the  clear  liquor  and  work  the  silk  in  it  for  30 
minutes ;  lift,  and  add  £  fluid  ounce  indigo 
extract  (see  No.   99) ;  work  for  10  minutes ; 
wash  in  cold  water  containing  £  pint  alum  so- 
lution, and  dry. 

The  indigo  extract  must  be  added  with  cau- 
tion, as  too  much  will  make  the  green  too 
blue;  it  is  safer  to  add  less,  and  then,  if  ne- 
cessary, lift,  and  add  more. 

279.  Bottle  Green.     Work  for  an  hour 
in  a  solution  of  2  pounds  alum  and  1  pound 
copperas;    wash  out  in  warm  water,    then 
work  for  30  minutes  in    a  decoction  of  6 
pounds  fustic ;  lift,  and  add  2  fluid  ounces  in- 
digo extract  (see  No.  99) ;  work  for  20  min- 
utes, wash  out  and  finish. 

280.  Bottle  Green.     Proceed  exactly  as 
for  common  green  (see  No.  276)  with  the  ad- 
dition of  1  pound  logwood  to  the  6  pounds 
fustic.     The  addition  of  a  little  more  logwood 
makes  a  still  deeper  shade  if  required. 


281 .  Olive.    Work  the  silk  for  30  minutes 
in  a  solution  of  1  pound  copperas  and  4  ounces 
alum ;  wash  out  in  hot  water,  then  work  for 
30  minutes  in  a  decoction  of  2  pounds  fustic 
and  4  ounces  logwood;  lift,  and  add 2  ounces 
alum  in  solution;  work  10  minutes,  wash  and 
dry. 

A  little  chemic  (see  No.  162)  added  to  the 
last  wash  water  will  induce  a  greener  hue  if 
required.  • 

282.  Light  Olive.     Dye  a  light  Prussian 
blue  (see  No.  256) ;  then  work  for  20  minutes 
in  a  decoction  of  2  pounds  fustic  and  £  pint 
archil  liquor;  lift,  and  add  1  ounce  alum  in 
solution;  work  10  minutes  and  finish. 

283.  To    Dye  Mixed    Fabrics   Two 
Colors.     Mixed  fabrics  of  cotton  and  wool, 
such  as  coburgs,  damasks,  &c.,  may  be  dyed 
all  of  one  color,  or  the  cotton  and  wool  in 
them  each  dyed  a  different  color.    This  is 
seldom  done  except  with  new  goods,  or  with 
very  light  colored  goods  which  are  desired  to 
be  dyed  dark  colors.    As  the  process  for  dye- 
ing woolens  will  seldom  impart  the  same  color 
to  cottons,  the  two  are  dyed  separately,  and 
the  method  is  quite  simple.    For  most  colors 
it  is  necessary  to  dye  the  woolen  portion  first, 
and  then  the  cotton ;  but  in  a  few  cases  the 
cotton  must  be  the  first  to  be  acted  on. 

284.  Green  and  Pink.    First  dye  the 
woolen  green  by  either  of  the  methods  given 
in  Nos.   206,  207,  &c.    The  cotton  is  then 
dyed  pink,  according  to  receipt  No.  248. 

285.  Green   and  Crimson.    Dye    the 
woolen  by  working  for  an  hour  in  2  pounds 
tartar,  4  pounds  alum,  and  6  pounds  fustic ; 
lift,  and  add  £  pint  indigo  extract  (see  No.  99) ; 
wash  out,  and  lay  over  night  in  6  pounds  su- 
mach ;  then  work  for  30  minutes  in  red  spirits 
(see   No.  108)  made  to  a    strength    of  H° 
Baume;  wash  out,  and  work  for  an  hour  in  5 
pounds  peachwood  at  blood  heat;  lift,   and 
add  a  little  alum;  work  in  this,  then  wash 
out  and  finish. 

286.  Blue  and  Orange.     First  dye  the 
cotton  by  the  blue  vat  (see  No.  130),  wash 
out,  and  then  dye  the  woolen  by  working  an 
hour  in  a  bath  made  up  of  2  pounds  tartar,  8 
ounces  cochineal,  2  pounds  fustic,  and  2  pints 
bichloride  of  tin ;  wash  and  dry. 

In  this  way  almost  any  two  colors  may  be 
dyed  upon  woolen  and  cotton,  although  woven 
together,  by  proceeding  according  to  the  re- 
ceipt for  the  color  required  on  each  sort  of 
fibre.  The  wool  is  always  dyed  first,  except- 
ing in  the  case  where  the  cotton  is  dyed  in 
the  blue  vat,  when  the  cotton  has  to  be 
treated  first.  The  same  principle  is  applica- 
ble to  silk  and  woolen  fabrics,  although  in 
many  cases  the  silk  becomes  more  imbued 
than  the  cotton  by  the  woolen  dyes.  A  mix- 
ture of  silk  and  cotton  can  be  dyed  in  the 
same  manner,  but  it  is  much  more  difficult, 
and  cannot  be  done  with  all  kinds  of  colors, 
and  the  process  is  seldom  resorted  to.  But 
the  intelligent  dyer  will  be  able  to  combine  a 
variety  of  tints  by  following  the  rules  and  re- 
ceipts given.  . 

287.  To  Dye  Mixed  Fabrics  one  Col- 
or.   If  the  mixed  fabrics  are  required  to  be 
dyed  one  uniform  color,  the  double  process 
has  often  to  be  adopted,  especially  for  cotton 
and  woolen  fabrics,  thus : 

288.  Black   on    Cotton  and  Woolen 


THE   AET    OF   DYEING. 


Goods.  First  dye  the  woolen  according  to 
No.  192 ;  then,  after  steeping  the  goods  in  su- 
mach, dye  the  cotton  by  receipt  No.  139. 

289.  Brown  on  Cotton  and  Woolen 
Goods  by  one  Process.     "Work  for  2  hours 
in  catechu,  as  in  No.  147;  then  work  at  a  boil- 
ing heat  for  an  hour  with  8  ounces  bichromate 
of  potassa  and  2  ounces  tartar ;  next  work  for 
an  hour  in  2  pounds  fustic  and  8  ounces  cud- 
bear ;  wash  and  dry.     For  a  deeper  shade,  or 
of  a  more  chocolate  hue,   add  4  ounces  log- 
wood to  the  cudbear. 

290.  Black  on  Silk  and  Woolens  by 
one  Process.     "Work  for  an  hour  in  a  solu- 
tion of  8  ounces  tartar  and  8  ounces  copperas; 
wash  out,  then  work  for  15  minutes  in  a  de- 
coction of  4  pounds  logwood ;  lift,   and  add 
1  ounce  chrome;  work  for  30  minutes  and 
dry. 

29 1 .  Black  on  Cotton,  Silk  and  Wool, 
by  one  Process.     Steep  for  6  hours  in  2 
pounds  sumach ;  then  work  for  an  hour  in  a 
solution  of  6  ounces  tartar,  6  ounces  sulphate 
of  copper,  and  6  ounces  copperas ;  wash  out, 
and  then  work  for  half  an  hour  in  a  decoction 
of  4  pounds  logwood ;  lift,  and  add  1  ounce 
copperas;   work  for  10  minutes,  wash  and 
dry. 

292.  Deep  Black.     To  obtain    a  very 
deep  black,  add  1  pound  of  bark  to  the  log- 
wood, and  proceed  as  in  last  receipt. 

293.  Drabs  on  Cotton,  Silk  and  Wool, 
by  one  Process.     Work  for  half  an  hour  in 
8  ounces  copperas  and  4  ounces  tartar;  lift 
and  drain ;  then  work  for  half  an  hour  in  4 
ounces  logwood  and  1  ounce  bichromate  of 
potassa ;  wash  out  and  dry.    By  varying  the 
quantity  of  logwood,  and  by  introducing  a 
little  fustic  or  peach  wood  in  combination  with 
the  logwood,  a  great  variety  of  drabs,  slates 
or  fawns  can  be  produced. 

These  few  receipts  for  mixed  fabrics  will 
show  the  care  required  in  such  operations,  al- 
though, by  practice,  they  become  compara- 
tively simple. 

294.  To  Detect  Animal  or  Vegetable 
Fibres.     Treat  the  fabric  with  bichloride  of 
tin  heated  to  from  130°  to  150°  Fahr.,  when 
the  cotton  and  linen  become  black,  and  the 
wool  and  silk  remain  unchanged. 

295.  To  Detect  Mixed  Fabrics  of  Cot- 
ton and  Wool.     Dip  a  piece  of  the  cloth  in 
bleaching  liquor;    after  a   little    while    the 
woolen  turns  yellow,  and  the  cotton  white, 
and  may  easily  be  distinguished. 

296.  To  Detect  Cotton  in  Linen.   The 
piece  to  be  tested  should  be  boiled  to  remove 
all  dressing,  and  then  dried ;  put  a  portion  of 
the  piece  into  common  vitriol  for  about  one 
minute ;  take  it  out  and  wash  it  in  water  sev- 
eral times,  and  then  into  a  weak  solution  of 
soda  or  potash,  and  all  the  gummy  matter 
formed  is  removed  by  gentle  rubbing.    By 
this  process  the  cotton  is  dissolved  and  the 
linen  remains,  or  any  portion  of  the  cotton 
that  is  not  dissolved  becomes  opaque  white, 
while  the  linen  is  transparent.    By  comparing 
the  portion  thus  tested,  with  a  similar  portion 
not  tried,  the  quantity  of  cotton  present  can 
easily  be  estimated. 

297.  To  Detect  Cotton  in  Linen.   Take 
a  small  piece  of  the  cloth,  boil  in  water  and 
dry;  then  take  3  parts,  by  weight,  of  sul- 
phuric acid,  and  2  parts  of  crushed  nitrate  of 


potassa;  put  the  dry  piece  of  cloth  in  this 
mixture  for  6  or  7  minutes,  and  then  wash  it 
in  water  until  there  is  no  taste  of  acid ;  dry  it 
at  a  gentle  heat;  next  put  it  into  a  mixture  of 
ether  and  alcohol,  which  will  dissolve  the  cot- 
ton and  not  the  linen.  If  the  piece  be 
weighed  before  and  after  putting  it  into  the 
ether  and  alcohol,  the  quantity  of  cotton  in 
the  fabric  can  be  accurately  ascertained. 

298.  To  Distinguish  Cotton  and  Wool. 
Take  a  small  piece  of  the  cloth  and  boil  in 
caustic  soda ;  the  wool  will  be  dissolved,  and 
the  cotton  remain.     If  the  threads  have  been 
previously  counted,  their  relative  mixture  can 
be  found. 

299.  To  Detect  Cotton  with  Silk  or 
Wool.     Put  a  piece  of  the  cloth  into  chlorine 
water  or  bleaching   liquor.    The    cotton  is 
whitened,  and  the  silk  and  wool  turn  yellow, 
and  can  easily  be  distinguished  by  the  aid  of 
a  pocket  lens. 

300.  To  Detect  Cotton  in  Silk  or  Wool. 
Take  a  small  piece  and  unravel  the  threads, 
and  inflame  them;  the  cotton  burns  away 
freely  and  leaves  little  or  no  black  charcoal ; 
the  wool  and  silk  shrivel  up,  leave  a  black 
charcoal,  and  give  a  strong  smell. 

Decidedly  the  best  and  safest  method,  and 
one  applicable  in  all  cases,  is  a  microscopic 
examination,  by  which  not  only  the  structure, 
but  also  the  nature  of  the  fibre  can  be  de- 
monstrated. Cotton,  wool  and  silk  are  easily 
distinguished  by  the  microscope,  as  they  dif- 
fer materially  in  appearance.  Cotton  forms 
flat,  narrow  ribbons,  curled  up  in  spirals  like 
those  of  a  corkscrew ;  wool  fibre  is  stouter 
than  all  others,  and  may  be  recognized  by  its 
scaly  surface,  while  silk  is  the  thinnest  fibre, 
has  the  smoothest  surface,  and  possesses  the 
least  structure.  These  appearances. are  very 
characteristic,  and  any  one  who  has  observed 
them  once  will  ever  afterwards  recognize 
them  again  at  first  sight. 

301 .  To  Distinguish  Silk  and  Wool  in 
Fabrics.     Silk  can  always  be  identified  in 
a  mixture  with  any  other  animal  or  vegetable 
fibre  by  means  of  concentrated  hydrochloric 
acid,  which  dissolves  it  completely  and  im- 
mediately, without  appreciably  affecting  any 
woolen  or  woody  fibre  with  which  the  silk 
may    have    been    interwoven.     Strong    sul- 
phuric acid  has  also  a  powerful  solvent  effect 
upon  silk,  and  is  likewise  much  more  destruc- 
tiveinitsactionuponcottonthan  theother  acid. 
Should  it  be  desired  to  determine  the  nature 
of  any  fibres  remaining  after  the  solution  of 
the  silk,  it  is  first  necessary  to  wash  and  col- 
lect them,  when  they  will  usually  be  found 
destitute  of  color.     To  decide  whether  wool 
is  present  or  absent,  a  s61ution  of  picric  acid 
may  be  employed,  which  instantly  imparts  a 
iull  yellow  tint  to  the  wool,  but  does  not  in 
;he  least  affect  cotton,  linen,  or  China  grass ; 
so  that  it  is  only  necessary  to  immerse  the 
fabric  in  the  dye,  wring  it  out,  and  wash  well 
with  water.     Should  any  portion  remain  of  a 
fellow  color,  the  presence  of  wool  is  indicated. 
Dther  methods  can  be  employed  similar  in 
jrinciple,  but  the  picric  acid  is  believed  to  be 
jest.    Discrimination  between  the  different 
finds  of  fibre  can  best  be  prosecuted  by  means 
of  the  microscope,  but  their  quantity  is  best 
bund  by  dissolving  away  one  fibre,  as  already 

directed,  and  weighing. 


FAMILY    DYEING    RECEIPTS. 


4,7 


Family  Dyeing  Receipts. 
The  following  receipts  and  directions  are 
excellent  for  dyeing  on  a  small  scale,  and  es- 
pecially adapted  for  family  use.  The  ingredi- 
ents required  can  be  obtained  at  any  color 
store. 

303.  Black  for  Worsted  or  Woolen. 
Dissolve  I  ounce  bichromate  of  potash  in  3  gal- 
lons water.   Boil  the  goods  in  this  40  minutes ; 
then  wash  in  cold  water.    Then  take  3  gal- 
lons water,  add  9  ounces  logwood,  3  ounces 
fustic,  and  one  or  two  drops,  D.  0.  V.,  or 
Double  Oil  of  Yitriol ;  boil  the  goods  40  min- 
utes, and  wash  out  in  cold  water.    This  will 
dye  from  1  to  2  pounds  of  cloth,  or  a  lady's 
dress,  if  of  a  dark  color,  as  brown,  claret,  &c. 

All  colored  dresses  with  cotton  warps  should 
be  previously  steeped  1  hour  in  sumach  li- 
quor ;  and  then  soaked  for  30  minutes  in  3 
gallons  of  clean  water,  with  1  cupful  of  ni- 
trate of  iron  (see  No.  116) ;  then  it  must  be 
well  washed,  and  dyed  as  first  stated. 

304.  Black  for  Silk.     Dye  the  same  as 
black  for  worsted;  but  previously  steep  the  silk 
in  the  following  liquor:  scald  4  ounces  logwood, 
and  i  ounce  turmeric  in  1  pint  boiling  water ; 
then  add  7  pints  cold  water.     Steep  30  or  40 
minutes ;  take  out,  and  add  1  ounce  sulphate 
of  iron  (copperas),  dissolved  in  hot  water; 
steep  the  silk  30  minutes  longer. 

305.  Brown  for  Worsted  or  Wool. 
"Water,   3  gallons ;  bichromate  of    potash,  £ 
ounce.     Boil  the  goods  in  this  40  minutes ; 
wash  out  in  cold  water.    Then  take  3  gallons 
water,  6  ounces  peachwood,   and   2  ounces 
turmeric.    Boil  the  goods  in  this  40  minutes ; 
wash  out. 

306.  Imperial  Blue  for  Silk,  Wool, 
and  Worsted.     "Water,   1  gallon ;  sulphuric 
acid,   a  wine-glassful ;  imperial  blue,   1  table- 
spoonful  or  more,  according  to  the  shade  re- 
quired.    Put  in  the  silk,  worsted,  or  wool, 
and  boil  10  minutes ;  wash  in  a  weak  solution 
of  soap  lather. 

307.  Sky  Blue  for  Worsted  and  Wool- 
en.    "Water,  1  gallon ;  sulphuric  acid,  a  wine- 
glassful  ;  glauber  salts  in  crystals,  2   table- 
spoonfuls;   liquid  extract  of  indigo,    1  tea- 
spoonful.   Boil  the  goods  about  15  minutes ; 
rinse  in  cold  water. 

308.  Claret   for  Wool   or   Worsted. 
A  Short  Way   of  Dyeing   the   Same. 
Water,  3  gallons;   cudbear,  12  ounces;  log- 
wood, 4  ounces;  old  fustic,  4  ounces;  alum,  % 
ounce.    Boil  the  goods  in  it  1  hour.    "Wash. 
This  will  dye  from  1  to  2  pounds  of  material. 

309.  Crimson  for  Worsted  or  Wool. 
"Water,  3  gallons ;  paste  cochineal,  1  ounce ; 
crearn  of  tartar,  1  ounce ;  nitrate  of  tin  (see 
No.  113),  a  wine-glassful.     Boil  your  goods  in 
this  1  hour.    Wash  first  irfreold  water,  then 
in  another  vessel  with  3  gallons  warm  water 
with  a  cupful  of  ammonia,  the  whole  well 
mixed.    Put  in  the  goods  and  work  well  15 
minutes.    For  a  bluer  shade  add  more  ammo- 
nia.    Then  wash  out. 

310.  Fawn  Drab  for  Silk.     Hot  wa- 
ter, 1  gallon;   annotto  liquor  (see  No.  95),  1 
wine-glassful ;  2  ounces  each  of  sumach  and 
fustic.     Add  copperas  liquor  according  to  the 
required  shade.    "Washout.     It  is 'best  to  use 
the  copperas  liquor  in  another  vessel,  diluted 
according  to  the  shade  desired. 


311.  Dark  Drab  for  Silk  maybe  ob- 
tained by  using  a  little  archil  and  extract  of 
indigo. 

312.  Flesh  Color  for   Dyeing    Silk. 
Boiling  water,  1  gallon ;  put  in  1  ounce  white 
soap,  and  1  ounce  pearlash.    Mix  well,  then 
add  a  cupful  of  annotto  liquor.  (See  No.  95.) 
Put  the  silk  through  several  times,  and  pro- 
portion the  liquor  till  you  obtain  the  required 
shade. 

313.  Salmon  Color  for  Silk  may  be  ob- 
tained by  first  passing  through  the  above  li- 
quor,  and  then  through  diluted  muriate  of 
tin.     (See  No.  113.) 

314.  Magenta  for  Silk,  Wool  or  Wors- 
ted.    Water,  1  gallon,  heated  up  to  180  de- 
grees ;  and  magenta  liquor,  1  tablespoonful ; 
stir  it  well  up.    This  will  dye  a  broad  ribbon 
4  yards  long,  or  a  pair  of  small  stockings. 
To  dye  a  larger  quantity  of  material,  add 
more  magenta  liquor  and  water.    The  shade 
of  color  may  be  easily  regulated  by  using 
more  or  less.    Magenta  Pink  may  be  obtained 
by  increased  dilution. 

315.  Mauve  for  Silk,  Wool  or  Wors- 
ted.    Water,  1  gallon ;  add  1  table-spoonful 
sulphuric  acid;  then  heat  to  boiling  point. 
For  a  very  light  mauve,  add  1  tea-spoonful  im- 
perial violet  liquor ;  boil  the  same  amount  of 
material,  as  stated  under  Magenta,  about  10 
minutes.     Kinse  in  cold  water.     If  the  color 
be  too  deep,  use  a  little  soap  in  rinsing,  using 
warm  water. 

316.  Violet  Color  for  Worsted  may  be 
produced  by  using  a  table-spoonful  of  violet 
liquor  instead  of  a  tea-spoonful. 

317.  Pea  Green  for  Silk.    To  1  quart 
water,  put  £  tea-spoonful  picric  acid,  and  rath- 
er more  than  £  wine-glassful  sulphuric  acid, 
and  a  tea-spoonful  paste  extract  of  indigo ; 
boil  about  5  minutes,  then  add  water  to  cool 
it  down  to  blood  heat,  or  100°  Fahr.     Put  in 
the  silk,  and  work  it  about  20  minutes.    The 
shade  may  be  varied  by  adding  more  or  less  of 
the  picric  acid,  or  extract  of  indigo ;  if  more 
of  either  be  added,  boil  separately  in  a  little 
water,  and  add  to  the  previous  liquor. 

318.  Pea  Green  for  Worsted.    Use  the 
same  materials  as  the  aforesaid ;  but  boil  all 
the  time  in  1  gallon  of  water  for  about  20  or 
30  minutes. 

319.  Dark  Green  for  Worsted.    This 
may  be  obtained  by  using  a  larger  quantity 
of  material,  in  the  same  way  as  the  last. 

320.  Plum  Color  for  Worsted,   Silk 
or  Cotton.     Water,  1  gallon ;  sulphuric  acid, 
1   tea-spoonful ;   glauber  salts,  in  crystals,  2 
table-spoonfuls;  violet  liquor,  1  table-spoonful; 
magenta   liquor,  %  table-spoonful.    Boil  the 
article  (silk,  wool  or  worsted),  about  10  min- 
utes. 

321.  Remarks    on    Dyeing    Cotton. 
Cotton  should  be  dyed  the  above  colors  sepa- 
rately,  and  by  first  running  them   through 
weak  gall  liquor,  and  weak  double  muriate  of 
tin.    Then  wash  well,  and  work  in  the  afore- 
said liquor,   according  to  color    and  shade. 
The  dyeing  liquor  should  be  cold. 

322.  Scarlet   on  Worsted  or  Wool. 
3  gallons  water,  2  ounces  dry  cochineal,   1 
ounce  cream  of  tartar,  1  wine-glassful  nitrate 
of  tin;  boil  the  goods  1  hour.    To  give  the 
goods  a  yellower  hue,  add  a  little  young  fus- 
tic to  the  above  mixture.  Wash  out  as  before. 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


323.  Yellow  for  Dyeing  Silk.    Pro- 
ceed the  same  as  in  dyeing  pea  green,  omit- 
ting the  extract  of  indigo,  and  using  oxaliq 
tin  instead  of  sulphuric  acid. 

324.  To  Dye   Feathers.    First   steep 
them  a  few  hours  in  warm  water. 

325.  Blue  may  be  dyed  by  extract  of  in- 
digo and  boiling  water.     Simmer  over  the  fire 
a  Few  minutes. 

326.  Green.    Verdigris  and  verditer,  1 
ounce  each ;  and  gum  water.    Dip  the  feath- 
ers.    Or  mix  the  indigo  liquor  with  Persian 
berry  liquor. 

327.  Iiilac.     Use  cudbear  and  hot  water. 

328.  Bed.     Brazil  wood,  a  little  vermil- 
ion and  alum,  and  vinegar.     Boil  30  minutes, 
and  then  dip  the  feathers. 

329.  Yellow,  by  turmeric. 

330.  Scarlet,  by  cochineal,  cream  of  tar- 
tar, and  muriate  of  tin.    (See  No.  113.) 

331.  To  Dye   Dove  or  Slate  Color. 
Boil  a  teacup  of  black  tea  in  an  iron  pot,  add- 
ing a  tea-spoonful  of  copperas.    The  depth  of 
color  will  depend  on  the  quantity  of  'water 
used.    Dye  the  articles  in  this  and  then  hang 
them  up  to  drain,  finally  rinsing  out  in  soap- 
suds. 

332.  Aniline    Red.     This    produces    a 
color  varying  from  the  deepest  crimson  to  a 
very  brilliant  and  beautiful  rose  pink,  accord- 
ing to  the  strength  of  the  dye.    All  that  is 
necessary  is  to  enclose  the  aniline  in  a  small 
muslin  bag,  and  having  a  kettle  (tin  or  brass) 
filled  with  moderately  hot  water,  rub  the  sub- 
stance out.     Then  immerse  the  articles  to  be 
colored,  and  in  a  short  time  they  are  done. 
The  dye  is  so  readily  absorbed  that  care  is  re- 
quired to  prevent  spotting.    No  mordant  is 
required,  although  it  improves  the  color  to 
wring  the  goods  out  of  strong  soapsuds  before 
putting  them  in  the  dye.    This  is  a  permanent 
color  for  woolen  or  silk. 

333.  Aniline  Blue.     To  100  pounds  of 
fabric  dissolve  1£  pounds  aniline  blue  in  3 
quarts  hot  alcohol;  strain  through   a  filter 
and  add  it  to  a  bath  of  130°  Fah.;  also  10 
pounds  glauber  salts,   and  5  pounds  acetic 
acid.     Enter  the  goods  and  handle  them  well 
for  20  minutes ;  next  heat  it  slowly  to  200° 
Fah.;  then  add  5  pounds  sulphuric  acid  di- 
luted with  water.    Let  the  whole  boil  20  min- 
utes longer,  then  rinse  and  dry^    If  the  ani- 
line be  added  in  two  or  three  proportions  dur- 
ing the  process  of  coloring,  it  will  facilitate 
the  evenness  of  the  color.     Hard  and  close 
wove  fabrics,  such  as  braid,  ought  to  be  pre- 
pared in  a  boiling  solution  of  10  pounds  sul- 
phuric acid  and  2  pounds  tartaric  acid  before 
coloring  with  the  aniline,  as  this  will  make 
the  fabric  more  susceptible  to  the  color. 

334.  To  Dye  Hats.    A  bath  for  dyeing 
12  dozen  hats  consists  of  144  pounds  logwood, 
12  pounds  green  sulphate  of  iron  or  copperas, 
7£  pounds  verdigris.    The  copper  is  made  of 
a  semi-cylindrical  shape,  and  should  be  sur- 
rounded with  an  iron  jacket,   or  case,  into 
which  steam  may  be  admitted,  so  as  to  raise 
the  temperature  of  the  interior  bath  to  190° 
Fah.,  but  no  higher ;  otherwise  the  heat  is 
apt  to  affect  the  stiffening  varnish,  called  the 
gum,   with  which  the  body  of  the  hat  has 
been  imbued.    The  logwood  having  been  in- 
troduced and  digested  for  some  time,  the  cop- 
peras and  verdigris  are  added  in  successive 


quantities,  and  in  the  above  proportions, 
along  with  every  successive  two  or  three  doz- 
en of  hats  suspended  upon  the  dipping  ma- 
chine. Each  set  of  hats,  after  being  exposed 
to  the  bath,  with  occasional  airings,  during  40 
minutes,  is  taken  off  the  pegs,  and  laid  out 
upon  the  ground  to  be  more  completely  black- 
ened by  the  peroxydizement  of  the  iron  with 
the  atmospheric  oxygen.  In  3  or  4  hours  the 
dyeing  is  completed.  "When  fully  dyed,  the 
hats  are  well  washed  in  running  water. 

335.  Spirit    Stiffening   for    Hats.    7 
pounds  orange  shellac ;  2  pounds  gum  sanda- 
rac ;  4  ounces  gum  mastic ;  £  pound  amber 
resin ;  1  pint  solution  of  copal ;  1  gallon  spir- 
it of  wine,  or  wood  naphtha.  • 

The  shellac,  sandarac,  mastic,  and  resin  are 
dissolved  in  the  spirit,  and  the  solution  of  co- 
pal is  added  last. 

336.  Alkali  Stiffening  for  Hats.    7 
pounds  common  block  shellac ;  1  pound  am- 
ber resin ;  4  ounces  gum  thus ;  4  ounces  gum 
mastic ;  6  ounces  borax ;  ^  pint  solution  of 
copal. 

The  borax  is  first  dissolved  in  about  1  gal- 
lon warm  water.  This  alkaline  liquor  is  put 
into  a  copper  pan  (heated  by  steam),  together 
with  the  shellac,  resin,  thus,  and  mastic,  and 
allowed  to  boil  for  some  time,  more  warm  wa- 
ter being  added  occasionally  until  it  is  of  a 
proper  consistence ;  this  may  be  known  by 
pouring  a  little  on  a  cold  slab,  somewhat  in- 
clined, and  if  the  liquor  runs  off  at  the  lower 
end,  it  is  sufficiently  fluid.  If,  on  the  con- 
trary, it  sets  before  it  reaches  the  bottom,  it 
requires  more  water.  "When  the  whole  of  the 
gums  seem  dissolved,  £  pint  of  wood  naphtha 
must  be  introduced,  with  the  solution  of  co- 
pal ;  then  the  liquor  must  be  passed  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  it  will  be  perfectly  clear  and 
ready  for  use.  This  stiffening  is  used  hot. 
The  hat  bodies,  before  they  are  stiffened, 
should  be  steeped  in  a  weak  solution  of  soda 
in  water,  to  destroy  any  acid  that  may  have 
been  left  in  them  (as  sulphuric  acid  is  used  in 
the  making  of  the  bodies. )  If  this  is  not  at- 
tended to,  should  the  hat  body  contain  any 
acid  when  it  is  dipped  into  the  stiffening,  the 
alkali  is  neutralized,  and  the  gums  conse- 
quently precipitated.  After  the  body  has 
been  steeped  in  the  alkaline  solution,  it 
must  be  perfectly  dried  in  the  stove  before 
the  stiffening  is  applied  ;  when  stiffened  and 
stoved,  it  must  be  steeped  all  eight  in  water 
to  which  a  small  quantity  of  the  sulphuric 
acid  has  been  added ;  this  sets  the  stiffening 
in  the  hat  body,  and  finishes  the  process. 


To  Remove  Stains,  Spots, 
<fec.  The  following  receipts  embrace 
directions  for  cleaning,  and  removing  stains  of 
every  kind,  from  clothing,  linen,  etc.,  and  ar- 
ticles pertaining  to  the  household.  Receipts 
for  cleansing  other  articles  will  be  found  else- 
where under  their  appropriate  headings. 

338.  To  Remove  Resin  Spots  from 
Silk.  Stains  by  wax,  resin,  turpentine, 
pitch,  and  substances  of  a  resinous  nature, 
may  be  removed  by  pure  alcohol.  It  frequent- 
ly happens  that  when  common  turpentine  is 
employed  to  remove  grease,  varnish  or  paint 
stains  from  silk,  the  turpentine  itself  leaves  a 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


stain  almost  as  objectionable  as  the  original 
one,  which  it  was  used  to  remove.  These 
stains  are  due  to  the  resin  which  is  held  in  so- 
lution by  the  turpentine,  and  which  remains 
in  the  silk  after  the  volatile  or  spirituous  por- 
tion has  evaporated.  Alcohol  applied  to  the 
stains  with  a  clean  sponge  will  remove  the 
spots,  because  alcohol  dissolves  the  resin. 
The  silk  stains  should  be  moistened  with  the 
alcohol  first,  and  allowed  to  remain  soaked 
for  a  few  minutes.  Fresh  alcohol  is  then  ap- 
plied with  the  sponge,  and  with  a  slight  rub- 
bing motion.  It  is  then  wiped  as  dry  as  pos- 
sible and  afterward  permitted  to  dry  perfectly 
in  the  open  air. 

339.  To  Remove  Pitch,  Varnish,  or 
Oil-paint  Stains.     "When  pitch,  varnish,  or 
oil-paint  stains  have  become  dry,  they  should 
be  softened  with  a  little  butter  or  lard,  before 
using  turpentine  and  soap.    In  these  cases,  a 
simple  way  is  to  soak  the  part  in  spirits  of 
turpentine,  and,  when  softened,  to  wash  it  off 
with  the  same  fluid.    Burning-fluid  combines 
the  solvent  powers  of  both  alcohol  and  tur- 
pentine.    Benzine  is  also  good.     Chloroform 
will  also  remove  paint  from  a  garment  when 
almost  everything  else  fails.    The  fats,  resins, 
and  unctuous  oils,  are  dissolved  by  essential 
oils,  as  oil  of  turpentine.    Common  spirits  of 
turpentine,  however,  requires  to  be  purified  by 
re-distillation,  or  it  will  leave  a  resinous  stain 
upon  the  spot  where  it  is  used.     (See  last  re- 
ceipt.) 

340.  To  Remove  Paint  Stains  from 
Clothes.     Chloroform  is  an  excellent  medium 
for  the  removal  of  stains  of  paint  from  clothes, 
etc.     It  is  found  that  portions  of  dry  white 
paint,  which  resisted  the  action  of  ether,  ben- 
zole, and  bisulphide  of  carbon,  are  at  once 
dissolved  by    chloroform.    If  the    paint   is 
fresh,  turpentine  or  alcohol  will  remove  it. 
(See  No.  338.) 

341.  To  Remove  Wax  Stains  from 
Silk.    Mix  powdered  French  chalk  with  lav- 
ender water  to  the  thickness  of   mustard. 
Put  it  on  the  stain,  and  rub  it  gently  with  the 
finger  or  palm  of  the  hand.     Put  a  sheet  of 
clean  blotting  paper  and  brown  paper  over  it, 
and  smooth  it  with  a  warm  iron.     "When  dry 
the  chalk  must  be  removed,  and  the  silk  gent- 
ly dusted  with  a  white  handkerchief.    If  a 
faint  mark  still  remains,  a  second  application 
of  Frenrfh  chalk  and  lavender  water  will  gen- 
erally remove  it.     If  the  wax  stain  has  fallen 
thickly  on  the  silk,  it  should  be  removed  first 
carefully  with  a  penknife. 

342.  To  Remove  Wax   Spots   from 
Cloth.     Remove,  by  scraping  with  a  knife, 
as  much  of  the  wax  as  you  can  without  injury 
to  the  fabric ;  drop  benzine  on  the  spot,  then 
with  a  sponge  rub  it  gently ;  repeat  it  till  the 
spot  disappears. 

343.  To    Remove    Spermaceti,     or 
Stearine    Stains.      To    remove    spots     of 
spermaceti,   scrape  off  as  much  as  you  can 
with  a  knife,  then  lay  a  thin,  soft,  white  blot- 
ting paper  upon  the  spots,  and  press  it  with  a 
warm  iron.     By  repeating  this  you  will  draw 
out  the  spermaceti.    Afterwards  rub  the  cloth 
where  the   spots  have  been,  with  some  very 
soft  brownish  paper. 

344.  To  Remove  Grease  Spots.    To 
do  this  without  injury  to  the  color  of  the  fab- 
ric, is  sometimes  easy,  frequently  most  diffi- 


cult, and  often  impossible.  Much  may  de- 
pend upon  skillful  and  persevering  manipula- 
tion ;  and  although  various  agents  are  often- 
times valuable,  yet  good  soap,  after  all,  is  the 
chief  reliance.  Grease  spots  may  generally 
be  removed  by  the  patient  application  of  soap 
and  soft  water,  but  other  means  are  also  em- 
ployed. Ox-gall  is  an  excellent  and  delicate 
cleansing  agent.  It  is  a  liquid  soda  soap.  It 
removes  grease,  and  is  said  to  fix  and  bright- 
en colors,  though  it  has  a  greenish  tinge, 
which  is  bad  for  the  purity  of  white  articles. 
Aqua  ammonia  is  also  good  for  removing 
grease  spots  from  any  fabric.  Use  the  ammo- 
nia nearly  pure,  and  then  lay  white  blotting 
paper  over  the  spot  and  iron  it  lightly.  (See 
also  No.  126.) 

345.  To   Remove  Grease   and   Dirt 
from  Cloth  and  Woolen  Articles.    Place 
a  cotton  or  woolen  cloth,  or  a  piece  of  blot- 
ting paper,   under  the  article  to  be  cleansed, 
then  rub  upon  the  spots  some  pure  benzine, 
and  the  grease  or  dirt  will  disappear  as  if  by 
magic. 

Be  sure  to  place  a  cloth  under  the  garment 
to  be  operated  upon,  otherwise  a  circular  stain 
will  remain,  which  cannot  be  removed.  The 
benzine  drives  the  grease  through  the  article 
to  be  cleaned,  and  is  absorbed  by  the  cloth 
placed  under  it.  After  the  spot  is  removed, 
continue  to  rub  with  a  dry  cloth  until  the 
benzine  is  evaporated;  this  also  is  done  to 
avoid  a  stain. 

346.  Cautions  about  Benzine.    From 
the  facility  with  which  it    removes  grease 
spots  from  fabrics,  this  substance  has  come  to 
be  regarded  almost  as  a  household  indispensa- 
ble.   But  few  persons,  however,  realize  the 
explosive  character  of  benzine  or  the  dangers 
attending  the  careless  handling  of  the  liquid. 
Being  one  of  the  most  volatile  and  inflamma- 
ble products  resulting  from  the  distillation  of 
petroleum,  it  vaporizes  with  great  rapidity,  so 
that  the  contents  of  a  4  ounce  vial,  if  over- 
turned, would  render  the  air  of  a  moderate 
sized  room   highly  explosive.     The  greatest 
care  should  be  exercised  in  handling  this  sub- 
stance, in  proximity  to  fire,  and  it  is  import- 
ant to  remember  that  the  vapor  escaping  from 
an  uncorked  bottle  will  cause  a  flame  to  leap 
over  a  space  of  several  feet. 

347.  To  Remove  Grease  from  Cloth. 
Take  1  quart  lime ;  add  thereto  as  much  wa- 
ter as  will  dissolve  the  lime  and  leave  about  1 
quart  clear  water  after  it  has  been  well  stirred 
and  settled.    Let  it  stand  about  two  hours, 
and  then  pour  off  the  clear  liquid  into  another 
vessel.    Now  add  to  it  \  an  ounce  of  pearlash; 
stir  it  well,  and,  when  settled,  bottle  it  for  use. 
This  liquor  is  to  be  diluted  with  water,  to  suit 
the  strength  or  delicacy  of  the  color  of  the 
cloth.    It  is  applied  with  a  piece  of  coarse 
sponge,  rubbing  out  the  grease,  and  applying 
clear  water  afterwards. 

This  is  one  of  the  best  receipts  known  for 
the  extraction  of  grease ;  but  it  is  destructive 
to  certain  vegetable  colors. 

348.  To  Remove  Grease  Spots  from 
Cloth.     Soft  soap,  and  fuller^  earth,  of  each 
\  pound ;  beat  well  together  in  a  mortar,  and 
form  into  cakes.    The  spot,  first  moistened 
with  water,  is  rubbed  with  a  cake,  and  al- 
lowed todry, whenitis wellrubbed  with alittle 
warm  water,  and  rinsed  or  rubbed  off  clean. 


5O 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


349.  Scouring  Balls.   Dry  fuller's  earth, 
moistened  with  the  juice  of  lemons ;  add  a 
small  quantity  of  pearl  ashes,  and  a  little  soft 
soap ;  knead  the  whole  well  together  into  a 
thick  elastic  paste;  form  it  into  small  balls 
and  dry  them  in  the  sun.    "When  used,  moist- 
en the  spot  on  the  clothes  with  water ;  then 
rub  it  with  the  ball,  and  let  the  spot  dry  in 
the  sun.    "When  washed  with  pure  water  the 
spot  will  disappear. 

350.  To  Remove  Grease  from  Cloth 
or  Silk.     Separate  the  yolk  of  an  egg  from 
the  white    as    perfectly    as  possible.     Then 
stretch  the  fabric  on  a  board,  and  with  a  soft 
clothes  brush  dip  into  the  yolk,  and  rub  the 
spot  with  it  until  the  grease  seems  loosened. 
The  yolk  will  not  injure  the  most  delicate 
colors,  but  the  rubbing  may,  if  too  severe. 
Then  rinse  with  warm  rain  water,  rubbing  the 
edges  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  clapping  the 
whole  between  dry  towels.    If  the  stain  is  not 
quite  cone,  repeat  the  process.     It  will  not  do 
BO  wefl  for  fabrics  mixed  with  cotton  or  linen. 

351.  To  Remove  Grease  from  Silk  or 
Velvet.     Rub  the  spots  on  the  silk  lightly 
and  rapidly  with  a    clean  soft  cotton   rag 
dipped  in  chloroform,  and  the  grease  will  im- 
mediately disappear  without  injuring  the  col- 
or of  the  silk.    Repeat  the  operation  if  ne- 
cessary.    Be  careful  to  rub  the  article  rapidly 
and  lightly,  then  finish  with  a  clean  dry  cloth. 
If  these  precautions  are  not  taken,  a  slight 
stain  is  apt  to  be  the  result.    Yery  highly 
rectified  benzine,  such  as  is  prepared  by  the 
first-class    druggists,  will  also  immediately 
remove  grease  from  the  most  delicate  colored 
silks. 

352.  To  Remove  Grease  from  Silk. 
Take  French  chalk  finely  scraped,  and  put  it 
on  the  grease  spot,  holding  it  near  the  fire,  or 
over  a  warm  iron  reversed,  or  on  a  water- 
plate  in  which  is  boiling  water.    This  will 
cause  the  grease  to  melt,  and  the  French 
chalk  will  absorb  it,    and  it  may  then  be 
brushed  or  rubbed  off;  or,  put  a  little  pow- 
dered French  chalk  on  the  spot,  cover  it  with 
a  piece  of  white  blotting-paper,  and  over  that 
a  piece  of  brown  wrapping  paper,  and  apply  a 
hot  flat-iron.     If  any  grease  remains,  proceed 
as  before,  until  it  is  all  extracted.    The  French 
chalk  is  a  fine  soluble  powder  of  a  dry  absorb- 
ent quality,  acting  upon  silks  the  same  as 
fuller's  earth  does  upon  cloth. 

The  above  plans  may  be  adopted  when  you 
desire  to  extract  the  grease  immediately;  but 
if  time  is  not  an  object,  proceed  as  follows : 

Sprinkle  pulverized  French  chalk  upon  the 
spot  and  put  the  article  in  a  dark  place,  and 
in  a  few  days  the  grease  will  entirely  disap- 
pear. We  think  this  last  method  the  best,  as 
the  heat  from  the  iron  will  sometimes  injure 
silk  of  a  delicate  tint. 

353.  To  Remove  Grease  Spots  from 
Silk.        Grease  spots  may   be    taken    from 
silks   in    the  following    manner:      Upon    a 
wooden  table  lay  a  piece  of  woolen  cloth  or 
baize,  upon  which  lay    smoothly    the    part 
stained,    with    the    right    side    downwards. 
Having  spread  a  piece  of  brown  paper  on  the 
top,  apply  a  flat-iron  just  hot    enough  to 
scorch  the  paper.    About  five  or  eight  sec- 
onds is  usually  sufficient.     Repeat  until  the 
spot  is  extracted.    Then  rub  briskly  with  a 
piece  of  writing  paper.    (See  last  receipt.) 


354.  French  Scouring  Drops  for  Re- 
moving Grease.   Campheiie,  8  ounces ;  pure 
alcohol,  1  ounce     sulphuric  ether,  1  ounce; 
essence  of  lemon,  1  drachm;  or,  spirits  of  wine, 
1  pint;  white  soap,  3  ounces;  ox  gall,  3  ounces; 
essence  of  lemon,  £  ounce. 

355.  To  Remove  Grease  from  Velvet. 
Grease  may  be  taken  out  of  velvet  by  a  little 
turpentine,  poured  over  the  spot;   then  rub 
briskly  with  a  piece  of  clean  dry  flannel. 
Repeat  the  application,  if  necessary,  and  hang 
the  article  in  the  air,  to  remove  the  smelC 
(See  No.  351.) 

356.  Simple  Method  of  Removing 
Grease  Spots  from  Silk.     Take  a  visiting 
or  other  card ;  separate  it,  and  rub  the  spot 
with  the  soft  internal  part,  and  it  will  dis- 
appear without  taking  the  gloss  off  the  silk. 
This  is  a  simple  and  valuable  receipt.    Bo 
careful  and  rub  the  silk  on  the  wrong  side,  as 
the  card  sometimes  will  soil  delicate  colored 
silks,  but  if  the  above  precaution  is  taken,  the 
spot  cannot  be  seen  on  the  right  side  of  the 
silk. 

357.  To  Remove  Oil  from  Carpets. 
To  take  oil  out  of  a  carpet,  as  soon  as  it  is 
spilled  put  on  plenty  of  wheat  flour  or  whi- 
ting, to  absorb  the  oil  and  keep  it  from  spread' 
ing.    If  the  oil  is  near  a  seam,  rip  it,  so  that 
the  spot  will  not  spread,  and  put  whiting  on 
the  floor  under  the  carpet.     Next  day  sweep 
up  all  the  flour  above  and  under  the  carpet 
with  a  stiff  brush,  and  put  on  plenty  of  fresh 
flour.    To  take  out  grease  spots,  rub  them 
with  white  flannel  dipped  in  raw  spirits  of 
turpentine.     If  they  show  after  a  while,  rub 
again  on  both  sides.     If  there  are  grease  spots 
on  the  floor,  remove  them  with  potter's  clay 
before  the  carpet  is  laid  down. 

358.  To  take  Grease    Spots   out  of 
Carpets.     Mix  a  little  soap  into  a  gallon  of 
warm  soft  water,  then  add  £  ounce  'of  borax ; 
wash  the  part  well  with  a  clean  cloth,  and 
the  grease  or  dirty  spot  will  soon  disappear. 

359.  To   Remove    Oil    Stains   from 
Leather  and  Paper.     Oil  stains  may  be  re- 
moved from  leather,  paper,  &c.,  by  applying 
pipe-clay,  powdered  and  mixed  with  water  to 
the  thickness  of  cream ;  leave  it  on  for  four 
hours.     This  will  not  injure  the  best  colors. 

360.  Methods  of  Removing  Various 
Stains.     Fruit-stains,  wine-stains,  and  those 
made  by  colored  vegetable  juices,  are  oftennear- 
ly  indelible,  and    require  various  treatment. 
Thorough  rubbing  with  soap  and  soft  water ; 
repeated  dipping  in    sour    butter-milk,  and 
drying  in  the  sun ;  rubbing  on  a  thick  mix- 
ture of  starch  and  cold  water,  and  exposing 
long  to  sun  and  air,  are  among  the  expedients 
resorted  to.    Sulphurous  acid  is  often  em- 
ployed to  bleach  out  colors.    It  may  be  gener- 
ated at  the  moment  of  using,  by  burning  a 
small  piece  of  sulphur  in  the  air,  under  the 
wide  end  of  a  small  paper  funnel,  whose  upper 
orifice  is  applied  near  the  cloth.    Coffee  and 
chocolate  stains  require  careful  soaping  and 
washing  with  water  at    120°,  followed    by 
sulphuration.    If  discoloration  has  been  pro* 
duced  by  acids,  water  of  ammonia  should  be 
applied ;  if  spots  have  been  made  by  alkaline 
substances,  moderately  strong  vinegar  may 
be  applied;    if  upon  a  delicate  article,  the 
vinegar  should    be    decolorized    by  filtering 
through  powdered  charcoal. 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


51 


361.  The  Effects  of  Acids  and  Alka- 
lies upon  Different  Colors.     The  effect  of 
acids    upon    blacks,  purples,    blues    (except 
those  produced  by  indigo  or  Prussian  blue), 
and  upon  all  those  shades  of  colors  which  are 
produced  by  means  of  iron,  archil,  and  as- 
tringent   substances,  is  to  turn    them    red. 
They  render  yellows  more  pale,  except  those 
produced  by  annotto,  which  they  turn  to  an 
orange  color. 

Alkalies  turn  scarlets,  and  all  reds  produced 
by  Brazil  or  logwood,  to  a  violet  color ;  they 
turn  green  (upon  woolen  cloths)  to  yellow, 
and  they  give  a  reddish  cast  to  the  yellow 
produced  by  annotto.  The  effect  of  the 
perspiration  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  alkalies. 

Spots  occasioned  by  acids  are  removed  by 
alkalies,  and  vice  versd.  (Sec  last  receipt.) 

362.  To   Restore   Colors   that  have 
been  Injured  by  the  use  of  Re- Agents. 
The  colors  of  cloths  are  often  injured  by  the 
re-agents  made  use  of  in  order  to  restore  them 
effectively ;   when  such  is  the  case  we  must 
not  only  understand  the  general  principles  of 
the  art  of  dyeing,  but  the  nature  and  composi- 
tion of  the  particular  dye  that  was  originally 
employed  for  dyeing  the  cloth  whose  color  is 
to  be  restored,  and  thus  enabled  to  modify  the 
means  accordingly.    Thus,  when,  after  using 
an  alkali  to  remove  an  acid  spot  upon  brown, 
violet,  or  blue  cloth,  &c.,  there   remains    a 

„  yellow  spot,  the  original  color  is  again  pro- 
duced by  means  of  a  solution  of  tin.  A  solu- 
tion of  the  sulphate  of  iron  restores  the  color 
to  those  brown  cloths  which  have  been  dyed 
with  galls.  Acids  give  to  yellow  cloths  which 
have  been  rendered  dull  or  brown  by  alkalies, 
their  original  brightness.  "When  black  cloths 
dyed  with  logwood  have  any  reddish  spots 
occasioned  by  acids,  alkalies  turn  such  spots 
to  a  yellow  color,  and  a  little  of  the  astringent 
principle  makes  them  black  again.  A  solu- 
tion of  1  part  of  indigo  in  4  parts  of  sulphuric 
acid,  properly  diluted  with  water,  may  be 
successfully  employed  to  restore  a  faded  blue 
color  upon  wool  or  cotton.  Red  or  scarlet 
colors  may  be  restored  by  means  of  cochineal, 
and  a  solution  of  muriate  of  tin,  <fec.  (See 
No.  113.) 

363.  The  Choice  of  Re-Agents  for 
Restoring  Color.     The  choice  of  re-agents 
is  not  a  matter  of  indifference ;  vegetable  acid 
(Decolorized  Vinegar,   see  Index),  is  gener- 
ally  preferable  to  mineral   acids.     The   sul- 
phurous acid  (see  No.  360),  however,  may  be 
used  for  spots  from  fruit;  it  does  not  injure 
blue  upon  silk,  or  the  colors  produced  by  as- 
tringents ;  nor  does  it  afl'ect  yellow  upon  cot- 
ton.    A  volatile  alkali  (  Water  of  Ammonia) 
succeeds  better  than  a  fixed  alkali  in  remov- 
ing spots  produced  by  acids.     They  are  usual- 
ly made  use  of  in  the  form  of  vapor,  and  act 
quickly,  seldom  injuring  the  color  of  the  cloth. 

364.  To  Remove  Fruit  Stains.     Spots 
caused  by  finrit  are  removed  by  sulphurous 
acid,  or  what  is  still  better,  by  water  acidu- 
lated with  a  little  muriatic  or  oxalic  acid,  or 
Halt  of  lemons;  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
apply  this  liquid  to  colors  that  it  will  injure. 
Alighted  sulphur  match  held  under  the  stain 
will  produce  sufficient  sulphurous  acid. 

365.  To   Remove   Fruit   and   other 
Stains  from  Linen.     Fruit  and  other  spots 
on  linen  may  be  removed  by  applying  to  the 


part,  previously  washed  clean,  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  chlorine,  chloride  of  lime,  spirits  of 
salts  (muriatic  acid),  oxalic  acid,  or  salts  of 
lemon,  in  warm  water,  and  frequently  by 
merely  using  a  little  lemon  juice.  The  part 
should  be  again  thoroughly  rinsed  in  clear 
warm  water  (without  soap),  and  dried. 

Many  other  stains  may  be  taken  out  by 
dipping  the  linen  in  sour  butter-milk,  and 
drying  it  in  a  hot  sun.  Then  wash  it  in  cold 
water,  and  dry  it,  2  or  3  times  a  day. 

366.  To  Remove  Acid  Stains  from 
Linen,  &c.     These  may  be  removed  by  the 
following  methods :  Wet  the  part  and  lay  on 
it    some  salt    of  wormwood  (carbonate   of 
potassa) ;  then  rub  it,  without  diluting  it  with 
more  water. 

Or :  Tie  up  in  the  stained  part  some  pearl- 
ash;  then  scrape  some  soap  into  cold  soft 
water  to  make  a  lather,  and  boil  the  linen  till 
the  stain  disappears. 

367.  To  Remove  Acid  Stains  from 
Garments.      Chloroform    will    restore    the 
color  of  garments,  where  the  same  has  been 
destroyed  by  acids. 

"When  acid  has  accidentally  or  otherwise 
destroyed  or  changed  the  color  of  the  fabric, 
ammonia  should  be  applied  to  neutralize  the 
acid.  A  subsequent  application  of  chloroform 
restores  the  original  color. 

Spots  produced  by  hydrochloric  or  sulphuric 
acid  can  be  removed  by  the  application  of 
concentrated  ammonia,  while  spots  from 
nitric  acid  can  scarcely  be  obliterated. 

368.  To  Remove  Alkali  Stains  from 
Garments.      Spots    produced    by  alkalies, 
such  as  soap-boiler's  lye,  soda,  ammonia,  etc., 
can  generally  be  made  to  disappear  complete- 
ly by  the  prompt  application  of  dilute  acetic 
acid  and  a  good  deal  of  water.    (See  No.  360.) 

369.  To  Remove  Claret  or  Port  Wine 
Stains.    Apply  a  little  table  salt  to  the  spot 
stained,   and    also    moisten    it  with  sherry. 
After  washing,  no  trace  of  the  stain  will  be 
left.    The  acid  contained  in  claret  decomposes 
the  salt,   and    sets  free  chlorine  (bleaching 
gas),  which  removes  the  vegetable  coloring 
matter  of  the  wine.    If  the  stain  is  from  port, 
sherry  should  be  added,  as  it  also  contains 
acid. 

370.  To   Remove    Stains  of    "Wine, 
Fruit,  &c.,  after  they  have  been  long  in 
the  Linen.     Eub  the  part  on  each  side  with 
yellow  soap ;   then  lay  on  a  mixture  of  starch 
in  cold  water  very  thick  ;  rub  it  well  in,  and 
expose  the  linen  to  the  sun  and  air  till  the 
stain  comes  out.    If  not  removed  in  3  or  4 
days,  rub  that  off  and  renew  the  process. 
"When  dry  it  may  be  sprinkled  with  a  little 
water. 

371.  To  Remove  Stains  of    Iodine. 
Stains   of  iodine   are  removed    by  rectified, 
spirit. 

372.  To  take  out  all  Stains  which  are 
not  Metallic.     Mix  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  water 
with  one   of  spirit  of  salt   (muriatic  acid); 
let  the  stain  lie  in  it  for  one  or  two  minutes ; 
then  rinse  the  article  in  cold  water.    This 
will  be  found  particularly  useful  in  removing 
stains  from  white  napkins. 

373.  Prepared  Ox-gall  for  taking  out 
Spots.     Boil  together  1  pint  of  ox-gall  and 
2  ounces  powdered  alum ;    to  which   add  2 
ounces  common  salt;   let  the  liquor  settle ; 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


add  a  few  drops  essence  of  lemon,  pour  it  off 
into  a  bottle,  and  cork  tightly. 

374.  Scouring  Balls  for  General  Pur- 
poses.    In  order  to  remove  a  stain,  the  cause 
or  origin  of  which  is  doubtful,  a  composition 
is  requisite  which  possesses  various  powers. 
The  following  is  a  good  one  for  such  pur- 
poses :  Dissolve  some  white  soap  in  alcohol, 
and  mix  with  it  the  yolks  of  4  or  5  eggs ;  add 
gradually  a  little  spirits  of  turpentine,  and 
sufficient  fuller's  earth  to  make  the  mixture 
into  balls.    To  remove  a  stain,  wet  the  spot 
with  soft  water,  rub  it  with  a  ball  of  the 
above  composition,  then  rub  the  cloth  and 
wash  out.      This  will  remove    almost    any 
stain,  except  ink  and  other  solutions  of  iron. 

375.  To  Remove  Iron  Mould  or  Ink 
Stains.     For  iron  mould  or  ink  stains,  lemon 
juice  or  salt  of  sorrel  (oxalate  of  potash)  may 
be  used.     If  the  stains  are  of  long  standing,  it 
may  be  necessary  to  use  oxalic  acid,  which  is 
much  more  powerful.     It  may  be  applied  in 
powder  upon  the  spot,  previously  moistened 
with  water  well  rubbed  on,  and  then  washed 
off  with  pure  water.    It  should  be  effectually 
washed  out,  for  it  is  highly  corrosive  to  textile 
fibres.    (See  also  No.  127.) 

376.  To   Remove  Iron  Mould.    The 
part  stained  should  be  remoistened  with  ink, 
and  this  removed  by  the  use  of  muriatic  acid 
diluted  with  5  or  6  times  its  weight  of  water, 
when  it  will  be  found  that  the  old  and  new 
stain  will  be  removed  simultaneously.    This 
is  a  very  effectual  method. 

377.  To  Remove  Stains  of  Iron  Mould 
from  Fabrics.     The  removal  of  these  stains 
is  a  matter  of  some  difficulty  if  they  have  re- 
mained on  a  fabric  for  some  time.    The  usual 
substances  employed  for  this  purpose  (oxalic 
acid  or  quadroxalate  of  potassa)  require  plac- 
ing, in  concentrated  solution,  in  contact  with 
the  material  for  a  considerable  time,  thereby 
materially  weakening  and  rotting  the  fibre. 
The  following  method  is  free  from  this  objec- 
tion, and  will  remove  stains  of  long  standing 
almost  immediately:    "Wet    the  mark    with 
yellow  sulphide  of  ammonium,  by  which  it 
will  be  immediately  blackened,  and  allow  it  a 
minute  or  so  to  penetrate ;  then  wash  out  the 
excess  of  sulphide,  and  treat  the  black  spot 
with  cold  dilute  muriatic  acid,  by  which  it  is 
immediately  removed.      Finally,  wash  well 
with  water. 

378.  To    Make    Essential    Salt    of 
Lemons,   for    removing    iron    moulds,  ink 
spots,  and  stains  from  linen  and  cotton.  Take  1 
ounce  of  oxalic  acid  in  fine  powder,  mix  with 
4  ounces  of  cream  tartar,  and  put  it  up  in 
small  oval  boxes. 

379.  To  Remove   Ink,  Iron  Mould, 
•fee.,  from  Linen.    Wet  the  finger  in  water, 
dip  it  in  the  powder  (sec  last  receipt),  and  rub 
it  on  the  spot  gently,  keeping  it  rather  moist, 
and  the  stain  will  disappear  without  injuring 
the  fabric.    After  the  stain  disappears,  wash 
the  linen  in  pure  water.    The  salt  of  lemon 
used  as  a  beverage  is  simply  tartaric  acid,  put 
up  in  long  bottles.     The  above  is  poisonous  if 
swallowed. 

380.  To  Remove  Iron  Mould  and  Ink 
from  Delicate  Linen  Fabrics.     These  may 
be  taken  out  by  wetting  the  spots  in  milk, 
then  covering  them  with    common  salt.    It 
should  be  done  before  the  garments    have 


been  washed.  Another  way  to  take  out  ink 
is  to  dip  it  in  melted  tallow.  For  fine,  deli- 
cate articles,  this  is  the  best  way. 

381.  To  take  out  Mildew  Spots.    "Wet 
the  spots  with  a  solution  of  chloride  of  soda 
(Labarraque's  solution),  or  of  chloride  of  lime 
(bleaching  fluid),  or  with  chlorine  water,  and 
they  will  disappear  immediately.     Fruit  and 
wine  stains  of  all  kinds  may  be  removed  in 
this  way.     (See  also  No.  128.)  Starched  linen 
which  has  contracted  mildew  spots  will  re- 
quire an  application  each  day  for  2  or  3  days ; 
rinsing  out  and  bleaching  in  the  sunshine  af- 
ter each  application. 

382.  To  Remove  Mildew.     Mildew  is 
easily  removed  by  rubbing  or  scraping  a  little 
common  yellow  soap  on  the  article,  and  then 
a  little  salt  and  starch  on  that.     Rub  all  well 
on  the  article,  and  put  in  the  sunshine.     Or, 
soap  the  linen  previously  wetted,  and  apply 
salt  and  lemon  juice  to  both  sides ;  or  apply 
finely  powdered  pipe  clay,  or  fuller's  earth,  or 
finely  powdered  chalk.    Expose  it  for  several 
hours  to  the  atmosphere. 

383.  To  Extract  Mildew.  Mix  soft  soap 
with  powdered  starch,  half  as  much  salt,  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  lay  on  with  a  brush. 
Let  it  lay  on  the  grass  day  and  night  till  the 
stain  is  gone.    This  is  a  good  receipt.    Or, 
take  2  ounces  chloride  of  lime,  pour  on  it  a 
quart  of  boiling  water,  then  add  3  quarts  of 
cold  water;  steep  the  linen  10  or  12  hours, 
when  every  spot  will  be  extracted. 

Mix  oxalic  acid,  citric  acid,  and  milk,  togeth- 
er; rub  into  the  linen;  repeat  as  it  dries; 
wash,  and  bleach  on  the  grass. 

384.  To  Remove  Common  Ink  Stains. 
Ink    stains  may  be    readily  removed    from 
white  articles  by  means  of  a  little  salt  of 
lemons,  diluted  muriatic  acid,  oxalic  acid,  or 
tartaric  acid,  and  hot  water ;  or  by  means  of 
a  little  solution  of  chlorine  or  chloride  of  lime. 
When  the  stain  is  caused  by  ink  manufactured 
with  logwood,  a  red  mark  remains,  which  may 
be  removed  by  the  application  of  a  little  chlo- 
ride of  lime.    All  strong  acids  and  alkalies 
tend  to  injure  the  fabric ;  therefore,  immedi- 
ately the  stains  are  removed,  the  spots  should 
be  well  rinsed,  and  repeatedly,  in  cold  water. 

385.  To  Remove   Stains    made   by 
Hair  Dye,  or  Indelible  Ink.     The  stain- 
ing principle  of  common  indelible  ink  is  ni- 
trate of  silver.     It  may  be  removed  by  first 
soaking  in  a  solution  of  common  salt,  which 
produces  chloride  of  silver,   and  afterwards 
washing  with  ammonia,  which  dissolves  the 
chloride.    Nitrate  of  silver,  or  hair  dye  stains 
can  be  removed  by  a  solution  of  10  grains  of 
cyanide  of  potassium,  and  5  grains  of  iodine 
to  1  ounce  of  water;   or  a  solution  of  8  parts 
of   perchloride  of   mercury  and  muriate    of 
ammonia  in   125  parts  of  water.     (See  Nos. 
129  and  387.) 

386.  To  Remove  Marking-Ink  from 
Linen.     Dip  the  garment  in  a  solution  of  1 
ounce  cyanide  of  potassium  in.  4  ounces  of 
water.     After  a  few  hours  the  stain  will  be 
obliterated.     This  is  very  effectual,  but  the 
mixture  is  highly  poisonous,  and  should  be 
carefully  removed. 

387.  To  Remove  Silver  Stains  from 
the  Hands.     Put  %  pound  glauber  salts,  £ 
pound  of  the  chloride  of  lime,  and  8  ounces  of 
water,  into  a  little  wide-mouthed  bottle,  and 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


when  required  for  use  pour  some  of  the 
thick  sediment  into  a  saucer,  and  rub  it  well 
over  the  hands  with  pumice  stone  or  a  nail- 
brush, and  it  will  clean  the  fingers  quite  equal 
to  cyanide,  but  without  any  danger.  This 
will  do  to  use  over  again  until  exlmusted,  and 
should  be  kept  corked  up.  The  disagreeable 
smell  may  be  entirely  avoided  by  the  liberal 
use  of  lemon  juice,  which  not  only  entirely 
removes  the  smell,  but  whitens  the  hands. 

388.  To   Remove    Stains   from   the 
Hands.     Ink  stains,  dye  stains,  fruit  stains, 
etc.,  can  be  immediately  removed  by  dipping 
the  fingers  in  warm  water  and  then  rubbing 
on  the  stain  a  small  portion  of  oxalic  acid 
powder  and  cream  of  tartar,  mixed  together 
in  equal  quantities,  and  kept  in  a  box.     When 
the  stain  disappears,  wash  the  hands  with  fine 
soap.  This  mixture,  being  poisonous,  must  be 
kept  out  of  the  reach  of  children.    A  few 
drops  of  oil  of  vitriol  (sulphuric  acid)  will  also 
remove  most  stains  from  the  hands  without 
injuring  them.     Care  must,  however,  be  taken 
not  to  drop  it  upon  the  clothes.    It  will  re- 
move the  color  from  woolen,  and  eat  holes  in 
cotton  fabrics.     The  juice  of  ripe  tomatoes 
will  remove  the  stain  of  walnuts  from  the 
hands,  without  injury  to  the  skin. 

389.  To  take  Ink  Stains  out  of  Ma- 
hogany.    Put  a  few  drops  of  spirits  of  nitre 
(nitric  acid)  in  a  tea-spoonful  of  water,  touch 
the  spot  with  a  feather  dipped  in  the  mixture, 
and  on  the  ink  disappearing,  rub  it  over  im- 
mediately with  a  rag  wetted  in  cold  water,  or 
there  will  be  a  white  mark,  which  will  not 
be  easily  effaced. 

390.  To  take  Ink  Spots  out  of  Ma- 
hogany.    Apply  spirits   of  salts  (muriatic 
acid)  with  a  rag  until  the  spots  disappear,  and 
immediately  afterward  wash  with  clear  water. 

391 .  To  Remove  Ink  from  Mahogany. 
To  %  pint  of  soft  water  put  1  ounce  of  oxalic 
acid,   and  ^  ounce  of  butter  (terchloride)  of 
antimony ;  shake  it  well,  and  when  dissolved 
it  will  be  very  useful  in  extracting  stains  from 
mahogany,  as  well  as  ink,  if  not  of  too  long 
standing. 

392.  To   Extract   Ink  from  Floors. 
Remove  ink  from   floors  by  scouring  them 
with  sand  wet  with  water  and  the  oil  of  vit 
riol,  mixed.    Then  rinse  them  with    strong 
saleratus  water. 

393.  To  Remove  Stains  on  Mahog- 
any Furniture.     Stains  and  spots  may  be 
taken  out  of  mahogany  furniture  by  the  use 
of  a  little  aquafortis,  or  oxalic  acid  and  water, 
by  nibbing  the  part  with  the  liquid,  by  means 
of  a  cork,  till  the  color  is  restored;  observing 
afterwards  to  well  wash  the  wood  with  water 
and  to  dry  and  polish  as  usual. 

394.  To  Extract  Oil    from    Boards, 
Marble  or  other  Stones.     Make  a  strong 
lye  of  pearlashes  and  soft  water,  and   add  as 
much  unslacked  lime  as  it  will  take  up ;   stir 
it  together,  and  then  let  it  settle  a  few  min- 
utes; bottle  it  and  stop   close;  have  ready 
some  water  to  dilute  it  when  used,  and  scour 
the  part  with  it.     If  the  liquor  should  lie  long 
on  the  boards,   it  will  draw  the  color  out  of 
them ;  therefore  do  it  with  care  and  expedi- 
tion.    "When  used  for  marble,  the  surface  may 
be  improved  by  rubbing  or  polishing  .  after- 
ward with  fine  putty-powder  and  olive  oil. 
(For  Putty  Powder,  see  Index.) 


395.  To  take  Oil  and  Grease  out  of 
Boards.   Make  a  paste  with  fuller's  earth  and 
hot  water,  cover  the   spots  therewith,    let  it 
dry  on,  and  the  next  day  scour  it  off  with  soft 
or  yellow  soap. 

396.  To  Clean  Marble.    To  clean  mar- 
ble, mix  quicklime  with  strong  lye,  so  as  to 
form  a  mixture  having  the  consistency  of 
cream,  and  apply  it  immediately  with  a  brush. 
If  this  composition  be  allowed  to  remain  for  a 
day  or  two,  and  be  then  washed  off  with  soap 
and  water,  the  marble  will  appear  as  though 
it  were  new. 

397.  To  Clean  Marble.     Take  2  parts 
of  common  soda,  1  part  of  pumice-stone,  and 
1    part    of    finely    powdered   chalk;    sift  it 
through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  it  with  water ; 
then  rub  it  well  all  over  the  marble,  and  the 
stains  will  be  removed ;  then  wash  the  mar- 
ble over  with  soap  and  water,  and  it  will  be 
as  clean  as  it  was  at  first. 

398.  How  to  Clean  Marble.    The  fol- 
lowing is  an  excellent  way  of  cleaning  marble : 

First,  brush  the  dust  off  the  piece  to  be 
cleaned,  then  apply  with  a  brush  a  good  coat 
of  gum  arabic,  about  the  consistency  of  thick 
office  mucilage;  expose  it  to  the  sun  or  dry 
wind,  or  both.  In  a  short  time  it  will  crack 
and  peel  off.  If  all  the  gum  should  not  peel 
off,  wash  it  with  clean  water  and  a  clean 
cloth.  If  the  first  application  does  not  have 
the  desired  effect,  it  should  be  applied  again. 

399.  To  Clean  Marble.    Mix  i  pound 
soft  soap  with  the  same  of  pounded  whiting, 
1  ounce  soda,  and  a  piece  of  stone-blue  the 
size  of  a  walnut ;  boil  these  together  for  £  of 
an  hour ;  whilst  hot,  rub  it  over  the  marble 
with  a  piece  of  flannel,  and  leave  it  on  for  24 
hours ;    then  wash  it  off  with  clean  water, 
and  polish  the  marble  with  a  piece  of  coarse 
flannel,  or,  what  is  better,  a  piece  of  an  old 
hat, 

400.  To  take  Stains  out   of  White 
Marble.     Take  1  ox-gall,  1  wine-glass  soap 
lees,    •£    wine-glassful    turpentine;  mix    and 
make  into    a    paste  with    pipe    clay.      Put 
on  the  paste  over  the  stain  and  let  it  remain 
for  several  days.    If  the  stain  is  not  fully  re- 
moved a  second  application  will    generally 
prove  sufficient. 

401.  To  Remove  Oil  Stains  in  Mar- 
ble.    Stains  in  marble  caused  by  oil  can  be 
removed  by  applying  common  clay  saturated 
with  benzine.    If  the  grease    has  remained 
long  enough  it  will  have  become  acidulated, 
and  may  injure  the  polish,  but  the  stain  will 
be  removed. 

402.  To  Remove  Iron  Mould  or  Ink 
from  Marble.     Iron  mould  and  ink  spots 
may  be  taken  out  in  the  following  manner : 
Take  \  ounce  butter  of  antimony  and  1  ounce 
oxalic  acid,  and  dissolve  them  in  1  pint  rain 
water;  add  flour,  and  bring  the  composition  to 
a  proper  consistence.     Then  lay  it  evenly  on 
the  stained  part  with  a  brush,  and  after  it  has 
remained  for  a  few  days  wash  it  off,  and  re- 
peat the  process  if  the  stain  is  not  quite  re- 
moved. 

403.  To  Remove   Stains  from  Mar- 
ble.    Mix    an  ox-gall  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  soap-boiler's  lye,  and  an  eighth  of  a 
pound  of  oil  of  turpentine,  and  add  enough 
pipe-clay  earth  to  form  a  paste,  which  is  then 
to  be  placed  upon  the  marble  for  a  time,  and 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


afterwards  scraped  off;  the  application  to  be  re- 
peated until  the  marble  is  perfectly  clean.  It 
is  quite  possible  that  a  faint  trace  of  the  stains 
may  be  left ;  but  this  will  bo  almost  inappre- 
ciable. Should  the  spots  be  produced  by  oil, 
these  are  to  be  first  treated  with  petroleum, 
for  the  purpose  of  softening  the  hardened  oil, 
and  the  above-mentioned  application  may  be 
made  subsequently. 

404.  To  Remove  Printing  Ink  from 
any  Article.     Printing  ink  can  be  readily 
taken  from  any  article  by  means  of  ether  or 
oil  of   turpentine.     Pure  benzine    will    also 
have  a  similar  effect. 

405.  To  Remove  the  Varnish  from 
Oil  Paintings,  &c.     Varnish  and  dirt  can  be 
removed  by  washing  over  with  a  weak  solution 
of  carbonate  of  ammonia,  wiping  it  off  with 
a  sponge  wetted  with  water  as  soon  as  it  has 
fulfilled  its  object ;  if  allowed  to  remain  too 
long  it  will  injure  the  oil   colors.     Another 
way  is  to  spread  a  thick  coat  of  wet  fuller's 
earth  over  the  surface  of  the  varnish,  leaving  it 
on  long  enough  to  soften  it ;  it  may  then  be 
removed  by  washing. 

406.  To  Clean  Pictures.     Havingtaken 
>  the  picture  out  of  the  frame,   take  a  clean 

towel,  and,  making  it  quite  wet,  lay  it  on  the 
face  of  the  picture,  sprinkling  it  from  time  to 
time  with  clean  soft  water;  let  itremainwetfor 
2  or  3  days ;  take  the  cloth  off  and  renew  it 
with  a  fresh  one.  After  wiping  the  picture 
with  a  clean  wet  sponge,  repeat  the  process 
till  you  find  all  the  dirt  is  soaked  out  of  it; 
then  wash  with  a  soft  sponge,  and  let  it  get 
quite  dry ;  rub  it  with  some  clear  nut  or  lin- 
seed oil,  and  it  will  look  as  well  as  when 
freshly  done. 

407.  To  Clean    Oil   Paintings.      Put 
into  2  quarts  of  strong  lye,  |  pound  of  Genoa 
soap,  rasped  very  fine,  with  1  pint  spirits  of 
wine ;  let  them  simmer  on  the  fire  for  half  an 
hour,  then  strain  them  through  a  cloth.     Ap- 
ply the  preparation  with  a  brush  to  the  pic- 
ture, wipe  it  off  with  a  sponge,  and  apply  it 
a  second  time,  which  will  remove  all  dirt. 
Then  with  a  little  nut-oil  warmed,  rub  the 
picture  and  let  it  dry.     This  will  make  it  look 
as  bright  as  when  it  came  out  of  the  artist's 
hands.   If  the  canvas  is  injured  by  damp,  mil- 
dew or  foul  air,  the  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to 
stretch  and  line  it  with  new  canvas. 

408.  To  Clean  Japanned  Waiters  and 
Urns.     Hub  on  with  a  sponge  a  little  white 
soap  and  some  lukewarm  water,  and  wash  the 
waiter  or  urn  quite  clean.     Never  use  hot  wa- 
ter, as  it  will  cause  the  japan  to  scale  off. 
Having  wiped  it  dry,  sprinkle  a  little  flour 
over  it;  let  it  rest  a  while,  and  then  rub  it 
with  a  soft  dry  cloth,  and  finish  with  a  silk 
handkerchief.     If  there  are  white  heat  marks 
on  the  waiters,   they  will  be  difficult  to  re- 
move ;  but  you  may  try  rubbing  them  with  a 
flannel  dipped  in  sweet  oil,  and  afterwards  in 
spirits  of  wine.     "Waiters  and  other  articles  of 
papier  mache  should  be  washed  with  a  sponge 
and  cold  water,  without  soap,   dredged  with 
flour  while  damp,  and  after  a  while  wiped  off, 
and  then  polished  with  a  silk  handkerchief. 

409.  Method  of  Cleaning  Paper  Hang- 
ings.    Cut  into  8  portions  a  loaf  of  bread  2 
days  old;  it  must  neither  be  newer  nor  sta- 
ler.   "With  one  of  these  pieces,   after  having 
blown  off  all  the  dust  from  the  paper  to  be  i 


cleaned,  by  the  means  of  a  good  pair  of  bel- 
lows, begin  at  the  top  of  the  room,  holding  the 
crust  in  the  hand,  and  wiping  lightly  down- 
ward with  the  crumb,  about  half  a  yard  at 
each  stroke,  till  the  upper  part  of  the  paper  is 
completely  cleaned  all  round.  Then  go  round 
again,  with  the  like  sweeping  stroke  down- 
wards, always  commencing  each  successive 
course  a  little  higher  than  the  upper  stroke 
had  extended,  till  the  bottom  be  finished. 
This  operation,  if  carefully  performed,  will 
frequently  make  very  old  paper  look  almost 
equal  to  new.  Great  caution  must  be  used 
not  by  any  means  to  rub  the  paper  hard,  nor 
to  attempt  cleaning  it  the  cross  or  horizontal 
way.  The  dirty  part  of  the  bread,  too,  must 
be  continually  cut  away,  and  the  pieces  re- 
newed as  soon  as  may  become  necessary. 

410.  To  take  Grease  Stains  out  of 
Wall  Papers.     Oil  marks,  and  marks  where 
neople  have  rested  their  heads,  can  be  taken 
from  the  paper  on  drawing-room  walls  by 
mixing  pipe-clay  with  water  to  the  consist- 
ency of  cream,  laying  it  on  the  spot,  and  let- 
ting it  remain  till  the  following  day,  when  it 
may  be  easily  removed  with  a  penknife  or  brush. 

411.  To  take   Grease   from    Paper. 
Gently  warm  the  parts  containing  the  grease, 
and  apply  blotting-paper  so  as  to  extract  as 
much  as  possible.     Boil  some  clear  essential 
oil  of  turpentine  and  apply  it  to  the   warm 
paper  with  a  soft  clean  brush.     A  little  recti- 
fied spirits  of  wine  should  be  put  over  after- 
ward. 

412.  To  take  out  Stains  of  Ink  from 
Books.         Oxyinuriatic    acid    removes,  per- 
fectly, stains  of  ink ;  and  should  the  paper  re- 
quire bleaching,   the  operation  will   answer 
both  ends  at  the  same  time.    Nearly  all  the 
acids  will  remove  spots  of  ink  from  paper ; 
but  it  is  important  to  use  such  as  dot  not  at- 
tack its  texture.     Spirits  of   salt   (muriatic 
acid)  diluted  in  5  or  6  times  the  quantity  of 
water,  may  be  applied  with  success  upon  the 
spot,  and  after  a  minute  or  two,  washing  it  off 
with  clean  water.     A  solution  of  oxalic  acid, 
citric  acid,  and  tartaric  acid,  is  attended  with 
the  least  risk,  and  may  be  applied  upon  the 
paper  and  plates  without  fear  of  damage. 
These  acids  taking  out  writing  ink,  and  not 
touching  the  printing,  can  be  used  for  restor- 
ing books  where  the  margins  have  been  writ- 
ten upon,  without  attacking  the  text. 

413.  To  Remove  Yellow  Stains  from 
the  Margins  of  Engravings.     The  yellow 
stains  on  the  margin  of  engravings  may  be 
removed  by  a  solution  of   hydrochloride  of 
soda.     This  liquid  is  commonly  known  under 
the  name  of  Labarraque's  solution. 

414.  To  Clean  Silver  or  Gold  Lace. 
Lay  the  lace  smooth  on  a  woolen  carpet  or 
piece  of  woolen  cloth,  and  brush  it  free  from 
dust,  then  bum  rock  alum  and  powder  it  fine, 
and  afterwards  sift  it  through  a  lawn  sieve ; 
then  rub  it  over  the  lace  with  a  fine  brush, 
and  in  so  doing  it  will  take  off  the  tarnish  and 
restore  it  to  its  brightness,  if  it  be  not  too 
much  worn  on  the  threads. 

415.  To  Clean  Papier  Mache.    Papier 
mach6  articles  should  be  washed  with  a  sponge 
and  cold  water,  without  soap,  dredged  with 
flour  while  damp,  and  polished  with  a  flannel. 

416.  To   Clean    Hair   Brushes   and 
Combs.     Wash  the  bristles  for  a  few  seconds 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


55 


in  a  weak  solution  of  hartshorn,  say  a  table 
spoonful  to  a  pint  of  cold  soft  water.  Then 
rinse  in  clean  cold  water,  and  dry.  Do  no 
set  them  near  the  fire,  nor  in  the  sun,  to  dry 
but,  after  shaking  them  well,  set  them  on  th 
point  of  the  handle  in  a  shady  place.  Bythi 
process  the  brush  will  be  thoroughly  cleanse! 
with  very  little  trouble.  Observe  that  th 
mahogany  or  satin-wood  back  of  the  brusl 
must  be  kept  out  of  the  solution,  as  it  is  ap 
to  discolor  wood.  Combs  may  be  cleaned  in 
the  same  manner. 

417.  To    Clean     Looking    Glasses 
Take  part  of  a  newspaper,  ibid  it  small,  dip  i 
in  a  basin  of  clean  cold  water,  and  when  it  ii 
thoroughly  wet  squeeze  it  out  as  a  sponge,  ant 
then  rub  it  hard  over  the  face  of  the  { / 
taking  care  that  it  is  not  so  wet  as  to  run  down 
in  streams.    After  the  glass  has  been  wel 
rubbed  with  the  wet  paper,  let  it  rest  a  few 
minutes  and  then  go  over  it  with  a  fresh  dry 
newspaper,  till  it  looks  clear  and  bright,  which 
it  will  do  almost  immediately.     The  inside  01 
windows  may  be  cleaned  in  this  way,  and  they 
will  look  beautifully  clear. 

418.  To  Clean  Straw  Matting.     Wash 
it  with  weak  salt  and  water  and  dry  it  well, 
or  boil  a  small  bag  of  bran  in  2  gallons  of  wa- 
ter,  and  wash  the  matting  with  the  water, 
drying  it  well. 

419.  To  Clean  Cane-Bottom  Chairs. 
Turn  up  the  chair  bottom,  and  with  hot  wa- 
ter and  a  sponge  wash  the  canework  well,  so 
that    it    may    become    completely    soaked. 
Should  it  be  very  dirty  you  must  add  soap. 
Let  it  dry  in  the  open  air  if  possible,   or  in  a 
place  where  there  is  a  thorough  draught,  and 
it  will  become  as  tight  and  firm  as  when  new, 
provided  it  has  not  been  broken. 

420.  To  Clean  Sheepskin  Rugs   or 
Mats.     Make  a  very  strong  lather,  by  boil- 
ing soap  in  a  little  water;  mix  this  with  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  water  (rather  more  than 
lukewarm)  to  wash  the  mat  or  rug  in,  and 
rub  boiled  soap  on  those  portions  of  it  which 
require  additional  cleansing.     "When  the  mat 
has  been  well  washed  in  this  water,  prepare 
another  lather  in  the  same  way,  in  which  a 
second  washing  must  take  place,  followed  by 
a  third,  which  ought  to  be  sufficient  to  cleanse 
it  thoroughly.     Einse  it  well  in  cold  water 
until  all  the  soap  is  removed,  and  then  put  it 
in  water  in  which  a  little  blue  has  been  mixed, 
sufficient  to  keep  the  wool  of  a  good  white, 
and  prevent  its  inclining  to  yellow.   After  this 
it  should  be  thoroughly  wrung,  shaken,  and 
hung  out  in  the  open  air  with  the  skin  part 
towards  the  sun,  but  not  while  it  is  scorching, 
otherwise  the  skin  will  become    hard.       It 
must  also  be  shaken  often  while  drying,  for  if 
not,   it  will  be  quite  stiff  and  crackly.     It 
should  be  frequently  turned,  being  hung  up 
first  by  one  end  and  then  by  the  other,  until 
it  has  dried  entirely. 

421.  To  Clean   Knives    and   Forks. 
Procure  a  smooth  board,  free  from  knots,  or 
one  covered  with  leather.     If  the  latter,  melt 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  mutton-suet,  and  put 
it  hot  upon  the  leather  with  a  piece  of  flannel; 
then  take  two  pieces  of  soft  Bath  brick,  and 
rub  them  one  against  the  other  over  the  leath- 
er till  it  is  covered  with  the  powder,  which 
rub  in  until  no  grease  comes  through  when  a 
knife  is  passed  over  the  leather,  which  may 


easily  be  known  oy  the  knife  keeping  its  pol- 
ish. If  only  a  plain  board,  rub  the  Bath  brick 
2  or  3  times  over  it ;  if  too  much  be  put  on 
at  once  it  will  make  the  blades  of  the  knives 
look  rough  and  scratched.  Let  the  board  bo 
of  a  proper  height,  and  set  so  that  the  person 
may  be  a  little  on  the  stoop  while  cleaning 
the  knives.  Take  a  knife  in  each  hand,  holding 
them  back  to  back ;  stand  opposite  the  mid- 
dle of  the  board ;  lay  the  knives  flat  upon  it, 
and  do  not  bear  too  hard  upon  them ;  by  this 
method  it  will  be  easier  to  clean  two  knives 
at  a  time  than  one,  and  they  will  bo  less  liable 
to  be  broken,  for  good  knives  will  snap  when 
pressed  on  too  heavily.  Many  will  say  that 
they  cannot  clean  two  knives  at  once,  or  that 
they  can  get  through  them  faster  one  by  one : 
but  if  they  will  only  try  it  a  few  times  in  the 
way  recommended,  they  will  find  it  not  only 
much  more  expeditious,  but  easier.  A  little 
practice  is  all  that  is  necessary. 

The  best  way  to  clean  steel  forks  is  to  fill  a 
small  barrel  with  fine  gravel,  brick  dust,  or 
sand,  mixed  with  a  little  hay  or  moss;  make 
it  moderately  damp,  press  it  well  down,  and 
let  it  always  be  kept  damp.  By  running  the 
prongs  of  the  steel  forks  a  few  times  into  this, 
all  the  stains  on  them  will  be  removed. 
Then  have  a  small  stick,  shaped  like  a  knife, 
with  leather  round  it,  to  polish  between  the 
prongs,  having  first  carefully  brushed  the  dust 
from  them  as  soon  as  they  are  taken  out  of  the 
tub.  A  knife-board  is  often  spoiled  in  clean- 
ng  forks  upon  it,  and  likewise  the  backs  of 
the  knives ;  to  prevent  this,  have  a  piece  of 
old  hat  or  leather  put  on  the  board  where  the 
forks  and  backs  of  the  knives  are  cleaned. 

422.  To  Preserve  Knives  and  Forks 
xi  Good  Condition.     Wipe  the  knives  and 
brks  as  soon  as  possible  after  being  used,  as 
the  longer  they  are  left  with  grease  and  stains 
on  them  the  harder  they  will  be  to  clean ; 
>articularly  if  they  have  been  used  for  acids, 
salads,  tarts,  etc.;  have  then  a  jug  of  hot  wa- 
;er  ready  to  put  them  into  as  soon  as  done 

with,  and  wipe  them  as  before  directed. 
In  order  to  keep  knives  and  forks  in  good 
ondition  when  they  are  not  in  use,  rub  the 
steel  part  with  a  flannel  dipped  in  oil ;  wipe 
the  oil  off  after  a  few  hours,  as  there  is  often 
water  in  it;  or  dust  thS  blades  and  prongs 
with  quicklime,  finely  powdered  and  kept  in  a 
muslin  bag. 

423.  To  Clean  Spice  Mills.     It  is  often 
lesired  to  grind  different   spices,  orange  or 
emon  peel,  in  the  same  mill,  without  any  one 
>eing  affected  by  another  spice.     Grind  a  tea- 
poonful  of  rice  through  the  mill  and  all  impu- 
rities will  be  removed.    A  coffee  millmaybe  fit- 

ed  to  grind  any  spice  in  the  same  way,  using 
ather  more  rice.  The  rice  will  of  course  be 
.avored  by  whatever  may  have  been  in  the 
mill.  It  is  useful  to  thicken  soups,  or  gravies, 
r  sauces,  when  the  spice  is  no  objection. 

424.  To    Keep    Oil-Cloths    Looking 
Well.     Wash  them  once  a  month  in  skim 
milk  and  water,   equal   quantities  of  each. 

iub  them  once  in  three  months  with  boiled  lin- 
eed  oil.  Put  on  very  little,  rub  it  well  in 
nth  a  rag,  and  polish  with  a  piece  of  old  silk. 
)il-cloths  will  last  years  if  kept  in  this  way. 

425.  To  Clean  Oil-Cloth.    An  oil-cloth 
hould  never  be  scrubbed  with  a  brush,  but, 
fter  being  first  swept,  should  be  cleaned  by 


56 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


washing  with  a  soft  flannel  and  lukewarm  or 
cold  water.  On  no  account  use  soap,  or  wa- 
ter that  is  hot,  as  either  would  have  a  bad  ef- 
fect on  the  paint.  "When  the  oil-cloth  is  dry, 
rub  it  well  with  a  small  portion  of  a  mixture 
of  bees'  wax,  softened  with  a  minute  quantity 
of  turpentine,  using  for  this  purpose  a  soft 
furniture  polishing  brush.  Oil-cloth  cared  for 
in  this  way  will  last  twice  the  time  than  with 
ordinary  treatment. 

426.  To  Give  to  Boards  a  Beautiful 
Appearance.      After    washing    them  very 
nicely  with  soda  and  warm  water  and  a  brush, 
wash  them  with  a  very  large  sponge  and  clean 
water.     Both  times  observe  to  leave  no  spot 
untouched ;   and  clean  straight  up  and  down, 
not  crossing  from  board  to  board ;  then  dry 
with  clean  cloths,  rubbed  hard  up  and  down 
in  the  same  way. 

The  floors  should  not  be  often  wetted,  but 
very  thoroughly  when  done ;  and  once  a  week 
dry-rubbed  with  hot  sand  and  a  heavy  brush, 
the  right  way  of  the  boards. 

The  sides  of  stairs  or  passages  on  which  are 
carpets  or  floor-cloth,  should  be  washed  with 
sponge  instead  of  linen  or  flannel,  and  the 
edges  will  not  be  soiled.  Different  sponges 
should  be  kept  for  the  above  two  uses ;  and 
those  and  the  brushes  should  be  well  washed 
when  done  with,  and  kept  in  dry  places. 

427.  To  Scour  Boards.     Lime,  1  part ; 
sand,  3  parts;  soft  soap,  two  parts.    Lay  a 
little  on  the  boards  with  a  scrubbing-brush, 
and  rub  thoroughly.    Einse  with  clean  wa- 
ter and  rub  dry.    This  will  keep  the  boards 
of  a  good  color,   and  will  also  keep  away 
vermin. 

428.  To  Clean  Stone  Stairsand  Halls. 
Boil  1  pound  of  pipe-clay  with  a  quart  water, 
and  a  quart  small  beer,  and  put  in  a  bit  of 
stone-blue.      Wash  with  this  mixture,  and, 
when  dry,  rub  the  stone  with  flannel  and  a 
brush. 

429.  To  Clean  Glass  Globes.    If  the 
globes  are  much  stained  on  the  outside  by 
smoke,  soak  them  in  tolerably  hot  water  with 
a  little  washing  soda  dissolved  in  it;  then  put 
a  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  ammonia  into  a 
pan  of  lukewarm  water,  and  with  a  tolerably 
hard  brush  wash  the  globes  till  the  smoke 
stain  disappears;  riflse  in  clean  cold  water, 
and  let  them  drain  till  dry;  they  will  be  quite 
as  white  and  clear  as  new  globes. 

430.  To   Clean   Decanters.    There  is 
often  much  difficulty  experienced  in  cleaning 
decanters,  especially  after  port  wine  has  stood 
in  them  for  some  time.     The  best  way  is  to 
wash  them  out  with  a  little  pearlash  and 
warm  water,  adding  a  spoonful  or  two  of  fresh 
slaked  lime  if  necessary.     To  facilitate  the 
action  of  the  fluid  against  the  sides  of  the 
glass,  a  few  small  cinders  may  be  used. 

Or,  soak  the  decanters  for  some  hours  in 
warm  soda  and  water ;  if  there  is  much  cut- 
ting on  the  outside,  a  brush  will  be  necessary 
to  remove  the  dirt  and  stains  from  the  crev- 
ices. Cut  a  potato  into  small  dice,  put  a 
good  handful  of  these  into  the  decanter  with 
some  warm  water,  shake  the  decanter  briskly 
until  the  stains  disappear ;  rinse  in  clean  cold 
water,  and  let  them  drain  until  dry.  Vinegar 
and  sauce  cruets  can  be  cleaned  in  the  same 
way. 

431.  To  Clean  Glass  Bottles.    Chop 


up  a  large  potato  very  fine  and  put  it  in  the 
bottle  with  some  warm  water,  and  shake  it 
rapidly  until  it  is  clean.  Some  use  shot  and 
soda,  but  potato  is  even  more  effectual. 

432.  To     Clean     Medicine    Phials. 
Cleanse  bottles  that  have  had  medicines  in 
them,  by  putting  ashes  in  each,  immersing 
them  in  cold  water,  and  then  heating  the  wa- 
ter gradually  till  it  boils.    After  boiling  an 
hour,  let  them  remain  in  the  water  till  it  is 
cold.    "Wash  them  in  soap-suds,   and    riuse 
them  till  clean  in  clear  water. 

433.  To  Wash  Castor  Bottles.     Put 
them  £  full  of  rice  and   fill  up  with   warm 
water;   shake  them  well;  this  will  cleanse 
them  thoroughly. 

434.  To  Clean  Greasy  Earthenware. 
Stone  pots  and  jars  in  which  lard  or  fat  has 
been  kept,  and  yellow  ware  pie  plates,  may  be 
cleaned  by  putting  them  in  a  kettle  with 
ashes  or  sal  soda,  covering  them  with  cold 
water,  and  allowing  them  to  boil  slowly  an  hour 
at  least.    When  boiled  enough,  take  them  off 
the  fire  and  leave  them  in  the  water  until  it 
cools. 

435.  To  Clean  Paint.     There  is  a  very 
simple  method  to  clean  paint  that  has  become 
dirty,  and  if  our  housewives  should  adopt  it, 
it  would  save  them  a  great  deal  of  trouble. 
Provide  a  plate  with  some  of  the  best  whit- 
ing to  be  had,  and  have  ready  some  clean  warm 
water  and  a  piece  of  flannel,  which  dip  into 
the  water  and  squeeze  nearly  dry ;  then  take 
as  much  whiting  as  will  adhere  to  it,  ap- 
ply it  to  the  painted  surface,  when  a  little 
rubbing  will  instantly  remove  any  dirt  or 
grease.    After  which  wash  the  part  well  with 
clean  water,  rubbing  it  dry  with  a  soft  cha- 
mois.    Paint  thus  cleaned  looks  as  well  as 
when  first  laid  on,  without  any  injury  to  the 
most  delicate  colors.    It  is  far  better  than 
using  soap,  and  does  not  require  more  than 
half  the  time  and  labor. 

Another  simple  method  is  as  follows : — put 
a  table-spoonful  of  aqua  ammonia  in  a  quart 
of  moderately  hot  water,  dip  in  a  flannel 
cloth,  and  with  this  merely  wipe  over  the 
wood- work ;  no  scrubbing  will  be  necessary. 

436.  To  Clean  Varnished  Paint.     Boil 
a  pound  of  bran  in  1  gallon  of  water  an  hour, 
and  wash  the  paint  with  the  bran  water. 

437.  To  Clean  Soiled  Bibbons  and 
Silks.     A    mixture    of   alcohol  and   highly 
rectified  benzine  is  excellent  for  cleaning  rib- 
bons and  silks.    It  is  applied  with  a  clean 
sponge.    Persons  who  apply  these  liquids  and 
mixtures  to  cleaning  silks,  &c.,  must  be  care- 
ful to  do  so  in  an  apartment  where  there  is 
neither  fire  nor  lamp  burning,  under  the  pen- 
alty of  an  explosion.     (See  No.  346.) 

438.  To   B,emove  Stains   from   Kid 
Gloves.     Stains  may  be  removed,  even  from 
the  most  delicately  colored   gloves,  by  sus- 
pending them  for  a  day  in  an  atmosphere  of 
ammonia.     Provide  a  tall  glass  cylinder,  in  the 
bottom  of  which  place  strong  aqua  ammonia. 
Be  careful  to  remove  from  the  sides  of  the  jar 
any  ammonia  that  may  have  been  spattered 
upon  them.     Suspend  the  gloves  to  the  stop- 
per in  the  jar.     They  must  not  come  in  con- 
tact with  the  liquid. 

439.  To  Clean  Kid  Gloves.    Dr.  Eei- 
mann  gives  the  following  directions,  in  the 
Scientific  American,  for  cleaning  kid  gloves: — 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


57 


A  bottle  2  feet  high,  and  1  to  1£  feet  wide, 
the  stopper  of  which  is  also  made  of  glass,  is 
filled  with  2  pounds  of  benzine.  Then  the 
gloves  which  are  to  be  washed  are  put  also 
into  the  bottle.  On  this  account  the  neck  of 
the  bottle  must  be  very  wide,  perhaps  from  •£ 
to  £  foot  in  diameter.  Such  bottles  are  easily 
obtained,  being  much  used  in  pharmacy.  As 
many  gloves  may  be  introduced  into  the  bot- 
tle as  the  liquid  will  cover.  The  bottle  is 
then  closed,  well  shaken,  and  allowed  to 
stand  some  minutes.  The  shaking  is  repeated, 
the  bottle  opened,  and  the  gloves  taken  out 
with  a  pair  of  iron  forceps. 

To  prevent  the  possibility  of  there  being 
any  smell,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  open  the  bottle 
under  a  good  chimney,  which  thus  carries  off 
all  the  vapor  that  escapes. 

The  gloves,  when  brought  by  the  forceps  to 
the  mouth  of  the  bottle,  are  taken  out,  one 
after  the  other,  by  the  hand,  and  wrung  out, 
care  being  taken  that  the  superfluous  liquid 
runs  back  again  into  the  bottle.  It  is  highly 
advisable  to  perform  this  operation  under  a 
chimney,  or  the  workman  will  soon  suffer 
from  the  injurious  influence  of  the  volatile 
hydrocarbon. 

Under  the  chimney  is  placed  a  cord  stretch- 
ed between  two  pins,  and  the  gloves  are 
hung  upon  this  by  means  of  small  S-shaped 
hooks.  After  hanging  a  short  time  they  will 
be  dry. 

The  benzine  contained  in  the  bottle  dis- 
solves all  the  grease  which  adheres  to  the 
§  loves,  and  the  dirt  which  had  been  com- 
ined  with  the  grease  is  consequently  re- 
moved at  the  same  time.  The  benzine  re- 
maining in  the  bottle  assumes  a  dirty  gray 
color  during  the  process  of  washing. 

"When  the  benzine  has  become  too  dirty,  it  is 
put  into  a  distilling  apparatus,  and  distilled 
over.  Jn  this  way  the  benzine  is  restored  to 
its  original  purity  and  whiteness,  so  that  it 
can  be  used  again  in  further  operations.  ( For 
directions  how  to  accomplish  this,  see  next  re- 
ceipt.) 

The  gloves,  when  taken  out  of  the  bottle, 
are  often  not  quite  clean,  in  which  case  it  is 
necessary  to  rub  them  with  a  rag,  moistened 
with  benzine,  in  all  places  where  they  are  still 
dirty. 

Thus  the  last  traces  of  dirt  are  removed, 
and  the  gloves  become  perfectly  clean.  In 
this  state  they  may  be  hung  on  a  cord  under 
the  chimney. 

The  gloves  soon  become  dry,  but  a  part  of 
the  benzine  still  remains  behind,  which  is  less 
volatile,  and  which,  when  the  glove  is  in  con- 
tact with  the  warm  hand,  causes  a  strong  odor 
of  benzine  to  be  evolved. 

To  remove  this  also,  the  gloves  are  placed 
on  a  common  plate,  which  is  put  upon  an  iron 
pot  containing  boiling  water.  The  first  plate 
is  covered  with  a  second,  and  the  gloves  be- 
tween the  two  plates  are  heated  at  the  boiling 
temperature  of  water,  until  the  last  traces  of 
the  unvolatilized  benzine  have  escaped. 

The  gloves  are  now  removed  from  the  plate, 
and  put  upon  a  wooden  glove-stretcher,  or 
shape.  In  this  way  they  are  made  to  resume 
then-  original  form,  and  are  now  ready  for 
use. 

The  whole  operation  must  be  so  conducted 
that  no  smell  of  benzine  is  perceptible.  The 


smell  of  benzine  is  always  a  sign  of  careless- 
ness on  the  part  of  the  workman,  who  can 
readily  conduct  all  the  benzine  vapors  up  the 
chimney.  (Sec  No.  346.) 

440.  To  He-Distill  and  Purify  Ben- 
zine that  has  been  used  for  Cleaning 
Kid  Gloves.  If  the  operation  of  distilling 
the  benzine  is  disagreeable  to  the  glove  maker, 
he  can  have  it  purified  at  the  apothecary's  or 
chemist's.  It  is,  however,  an  operation  which 
he  can  readily  perform  himself 

The  apparatus  is  neither  complicated  nor 
expensive.  A  small  wooden  pail,  such  as  is 
used  in  every  establishment,  is  furnished  with 
two  holes.  The  first  of  these  is  drilled  near 
the  upper  margin  of  the  pail,  so  that,  when 
the  pail  is  filled  with  water,  the  water  runs 
out  through  the  hole,  until  the  surface  of  the 
water  within  the  pail  is  on  a  level  with  the 
lowest  portion  of  the  hole,  that  is  to  say,  just 
below  the  upper  margin  of  the  vessel. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  pail  another 
hole  is  made,  but  this  time  near  its  bottom,  so 
that  water  would  run  through  this  hole,  until 
the  surplus  of  the  contained  water  was  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  bottom. 

A  leaden  tube,  the  thickness  of  which 
equals  the  diameter  of  the  hole,  is  bent  so  as 
to  form  a  distilling  worm,  the  upper  end  of 
which  is  inserted  into  the  upper  opening,  and 
the  lower  end  into  the  lower  hole. 

The  tube  is  tightly  inserted  into  both  holes, 
so  that  no  water  can  run  through  the  space 
between  the  tube  and  the  hole. 

The  pail  is  then  filled  with  cold  water. 
'   The  upper  and  lower  ends  of  the  leaden 
tube  must  project  a  little  beyond  the  outer 
surface  of  the  pail — perhaps  two  inches. 

The  lower  end  is  bent  downward  a  little. 
The  upper  end  is  a  little  enlarged,  so  that  the 
tube  forms  a  sort  of  funnel  above. 

In  this  is  inserted  a  glass  retort,  conve- 
niently fixed  in  a  holder. 

The  space  between  the  neck  of  the  retort 
and  the  enlarged  end  of  the  leaden  tube  is 
conveniently  filled  with  moistened  cotton, 
so  that  no  vapors  can  escape  through  it. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  employ  a  glass  retort 
with  a  tube,  so  that  any  fluid  can  be  poured 
into  it  when  the  apparatus  is  already  fixed. 

Having  placed  the  retort  on  a  vapor  bath, 
where  it  can  be  heated  at  212°  Fahr.,  the  neck 
of  the  retort  is  connected  with  the  worm,  as 
above  mentioned,  and  the  pail  filled  up  with 
cold  water.  The  retort  is  then  filled  with  the 
impure  benzine  or  petroleum  essence  which 
has  been  used  in  washing  gloves. 

After  pouring  in  the  benzine,  the  tube  of 
the  retort  is  closed  by  a  stopper,  and  then  the 
apparatus  is  completed  by  a  bottle  placed  un- 
der the  lower  end  of  the  leaden  tube,  which 
projects  beyond  the  outer  surface  of  the  pail, 
so  that  the  liquid  running  down  this  flows 
directly  into  the  bottle. 

The  vapor  bath  is  now  heated,  the  retort 
soon  becomes  warm,  and  the  volatile  liquid 
begins  to  distill  over,  either  quickly  or  slowly, 
according  to  the  way  in  which  the  heating 
process  is  conducted. 

The  vapor  of  the  hydrocarbon  condenses 
in  the  worm,  and  a  stream  of  liquid  flows  out 
of  its  mouth.  In  a  short  time  there  remains 
behind  in  the  retort  only  the  grease  which  the 
benzine  has  extracted  from  the  gloves. 


58 


TO    REMOVE  .STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


441.  To  Refine  Ox-gall  for   Fixing 
Chalk  and  Pencil  Drawings,  and  Re- 
moving Grease.     Allow  fresh  ox- gall  to  re- 
pose for  12  or  15  hours,  decant  the  clear,  and 
evaporate  to  the  consistence  of  a  thick  syrup, 
in  a  water  bath;  then  spread  it  thinly 'on  a 
dish,  and  expose  it  before  the  fire,  or  to  a  cur- 
rent of  dry  air,  until  nearly  dry.    It  will  then 
keep  lor  years  in  wide-mouthed  bottles  or  pots, 
covered  over  with  bladder.    For  use,  a  little 
is  dissolved  in  water. 

Or: — fresh  gall,  1  pint;  boil,  skim,  add  pound- 
ed alum,  1  ounce;  boil  again  until  the  alum  is 
dissolved,  and  when  sufficiently  cool,  pour  it 
into  a  bottle,  and  loosely  cork  'it  down ;  in  a 
similar  manner  boil  and  skim  another  pint  of 
gall,  and  add  to  it  1  ounce  of  common  salt; 
boil  till  dissolved,  and  cool  and  bottle  as 
above.  In  three  months  decant  the  clear 
from  both  bottles,  and  mix  them  in  equal 
quantities;  the  clear  portion  must  then  be 
separated  from  the  coagulum  by  subsidence  or 
filtration.  It  is  employed  by  artists  to  fix 
chalk  and  pencil  drawings  before  tinting  them, 
and  to  remove  the  greasiness  from  ivory,  tra- 
cin-g  paper,  &e.  It  is  also  used  to  extract 
grease  and  oil  from  clothes:  for  the  latter 
purpose  it  answers  admirably. 

442.  To  Clean   Cloth   Clothes.    Dis- 
solve 4  ounces  washing  soda  in  1  qjiart  boiling 
water ;  when  dissolved,  add  to  it  1  moderate 
sized  fresh  beefs  gall ;  lay  the  garment  to  be 
cleaned  on  a  clean  table  or  board,  and  with  a 
sponge  or  brush  (a  brush  is  the  best)  wetted 
in  the  liquid,  rub  well  the  grease  spots  first, 
and.  afterwards  the  whole  garment,  frequently 
dipping  the  sponge  or  brush  in  the  liquid; 
when  sufficiently  rubbed,  rinse  in  cold  water 
until  the  water  is  clear,  then  squeeze  the  wa- 
ter out  thoroughly  (but  without  twisting — if 
possible,  use  a  patent  wringer),  shake  well  and 
hang  in  the  air  to  dry.     While  drying,  shake 
the  garment    occasionally  and  pull  it  into 
shape    to    prevent    shrinking.       "When    still 
slightly  damp,  press  it  on  the  wrong  side 
with  a  warm  iron,   and  then  finish  airing. 
Clothes  cleaned  in  this  way,  if  the  directions 
be  strictly  followed,  look  almost  equal  to  new. 
The  use  of  the  patent  wringing  machine  is  a 
great  improvement  in  this  operation,  as  it  has- 
tens drying,   and  prevents    shrinking.     The 
editor  has  used  this  receipt  in  his  family  for 
the  last  15  years  with  the  most  satisfactory 
results.    For  dark-colored  cloth  garments,  it 
is  a  common  practice  to  add  some  fuller's 
earth  to  the  mixture  of  soap  and  gall.    When 
nearly  dry,  the  nap  should  be  laid  right,  and 
the  garment  carefully  pressed,  after  which,  a 
brush,  moistened  with  a  drop  or  two  of  olive 
oil,  should  be  passed  over  it  several  times; 
this  will  give  it  a  superior  finish. 

443.  To  Clean  Woolen  Clothes.    Mix 
•$•  ounce  sulphuric  ether  and  |  ounce  hartshorn 
(ammonia  water)  with  3  ounces  water.     Rub 
the    article  well  with  a  sponge   frequently 
wetted  with  the  mixture,  which  will  remove 
the  dirt;  then  sponge  with  clean -warm  wa- 
ter;   next    lay    a  coarse  towel,   which  has 
been  saturated  with  hot  water  and  wrung  out, 
over  the  article,   and  press  it  with  a   hot 
iron ;  while  the  steam  is  still  rising  from  the 
cloth,  brush  it  down  with  a  clothes  brush. 

444.  To  Clean  Carpets.     Carpets  may 
be    cleaned    as    follows :      Take    them    up 


and  shake  and  beat  them,  so  as  to  render 
them  perfectly  free  from  dust.  Have  the 
floor  thoroughly  scoured  and  dry,  and  nail  the 
carpet  firmly  down  upon  it.  If  still  much 
soiled  it  may  be  cleaned  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  Take  a  pailful  of  clean  cold  spring  wa- 
ter, and  put  into  it  about  3  gills  of  ox-gall. 
Take  another  pail  with  clean  cold  water  only. 
Now  rub  with  a  soft  scrubbing  brush  some  of 
the  ox-gall  water  on  the  carpet,  which  will 
raise  a  lather.  When  a  convenient  sized  por- 
tion is  done,  wash  the  lather  off  with  a  clean 
linen  cloth  dipped  in  the  clean  water.  Let 
this  water  be  changed  frequently.  When  all 
the  lather  has  disappeared,  rub  the  part  with 
a  clean  dry  cloth.  After  all  is  done,  open  the 
window  to  allow  the  carpet  to  dry.  A  carpet 
treated  in  this  way  will  be  greatly  refreshed 
in  color,  particularly  the  greens.  Any  particu- 
larly dirty  spots  should  be  rubbed  by  nearly 
pure  gall  first ;  and  every  spot  of  grease  must 
be  removed  from  the  carpet  by  the  following 
process :  Scrape  and  pound  together,  in  equal 
proportion,  magnesia  in  the  lump  and  ful- 
ler's earth.  Having  mixed  these  substances 
well  together,  pour  on  them  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  boiling  water  to  make  them  into  a 
paste.  Lay  this  paste,  as  hot  as  possible,  upon 
the  grease  spots  upon  the  carpet,  and  let  it 
dry.  Next  day,  when  the  composition  is 
quite  dry,  brush  it  off,  and  the  grease  spot 
will  have  disappeared.  (See  No.  357.) 

445.  To   Clean   Hearth   Rugs   and 
Stair  Carpets.     Hearth  rugs  and  stair  car- 
pets may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as 
given  in  the  last  receipt,  only  that  these  may 
be  spread  and  washed  upon  a  table. 

446.  How  to  Clean  Carpets.     Carpets 
may  be  washed  on  tables  or  on  the  floor.    In 
either  case  they  must  be  taken  up  and  well 
beaten  and  swept.     Grease  is  taken,  out  by 
rubbing  hard  soap  on  the  spot,  and  scrubbing 
it  out  with  a  brush  dipped  in  clean  coM.  water. 
Each  spot  must  be  rubbed  dry  with  a  cloth  as 
it  is  washed.     Dissolve  a  bar  of  soap  in  2  gal- 
lons of  water,  by  cutting  it  into  the  water 
and  heating  to    a  boil.     Lay  the  carpet  on 
the  floor  and  tack  it  down,  or  have  a  heavy 
board,  3  feet  wide  by  12  feet  long,  laid  on 
stout  stands,  or  horses,  and  throw  the  carpet 
over  that,  keeping  a  clean  board  or  sheet  un- 
derneath to  receive  the  carpet  as  it  is  cleansed. 
Provide  brushes,  and    a  quantity  of   coarse 
cotton  cloths,   flannels,  and  a  large  sponge. 
Take  2  pails  filled  with  blood-warm  water, 
put  2  quarts  of  the  melted  soap  into  one  of 
them  to  scour  the  carpet  with,  and  use  the 
other   for    rinsing.     Dip    the   brush    in    the 
soap-suds,   and  scour  a  square  yard  of  tho 
carpet  at  a  time,  using  as  little  water  as  possi- 
ble,   not   to   soak  it  through.       When    the 
soap  has  done  its  work,  rub  it  well  out  of  the 
carpet  with  a  flannel  or  coarse  sponge,   suck- 
ing up  with  these  all  the  wet  and  dirt  left  by 
the  brash,  rinsing  the  article  used  in  clean 
water  repeatedly.     Have  ready  a  pail  of  clean 
cold   water,   with   enough  sulphuric  acid   or 
sharp  vinegar  in  it  to  taste  sour ;  dip  a  clean 
sponge  in  this,  squeeze  and  rub  it  well  into 
the  spot  just  cleansed.     Afterward  wipe  dry 
with  coarse  cloths,  rinsing  and  hanging  them 
where  they  will  be  dry  when  the  next  yard  is 
washed.     Finish  yard  after  yard  in  this  way, 
rubbing  each  clean  and  dry  as  you  go.     Keep 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


59 


a  good  fire  in  the  room  to  dry  the  carpet 
thoroughly.  If  scoured  on  a  frame,  nail  the 
carpet  against  the  side  of  a  house  in  the  sun 
to  dry.  This  is  a  tedious,  but  thorough  pro- 
cess. Hearth  rugs  may  be  cleaned  in  the 
same  "way,  beating  and  brushing  them  well, 
and  tacking  on  a  large  board  before  washing. 
Scrub  one-sixth  of  it  at  a  time  unless  you  are 
expeditious,  and  dry  well  with  an  old  sheet. 
The  secret  of  having  carpets  look  well  is  to 
wash  and  rinse  them  thoroughly,  without 
soaking  them  through.  Ingrain,  tapestry, 
Brussels,  and  Turkish  carpets  are  all  cleaned 
in  this  way.  Good  authorities  recommend  a 
tea-cupful  of  ox-gall  to  a  pail  of  soap-suds, 
rinsing  with  clean  water.  (See  No.  444.) 

447.  To  Sweep  Carpets.     Before  ap- 
plying the  broom,  scatter  over  the  carpet  the 
refuse  tea-leaves  from  the  tea-pot.      These 
should  be  set  apart  and  saved  in  a  pot  kept 
for  the  purpose,  squeezing  the  water  out  thor- 
oughly in  the  hand.     First  rub  the  leaves 
into  the  carpet  with  the  broom,  and  then 
sweep  as  usual.     This  will  prevent  dust  and 
brighten  the  colors.    Indian  meal  is  recom- 
mended for  this  purpose  by  many  experienced 
housekeepers. 

448.  To  Clean  Colored  Silks,  Moreens, 
Chintzes,  and  Printed  Cottons.     Colored 
or  black  silks,  moreens,  printed  cottons,  and 
chintzes,  may  be  cleaned,  without  injury  to 
their  colors,  by  potato  liquor.     Grate  raw  po- 
tatoes to  a  fine  pulp ;  add  water  in  the  pro- 
portion of  1  pint  to  1  pound  of  potatoes ;  pass 
the  liquid  through  a  coarse  sieve  into  a  vessel, 
and  allow  it  to  remain  till  the  fine  white 
starch  subsides  to  the  bottom.     Pour  off  the 
clear  liquor,  which  is  to  be  used  for  cleaning. 
Spread  the  article  to  be  cleaned  upon  a  table, 
which  should  be  covered  with  a  linen  cloth ; 
dip  a  sponge  in  the  liquor,  and  apply  it  until 
the  dirt  is  removed.    Then  rinse  the  article  in 
clean  cokl  water  several  times. 

449.  To  Clean  Old  Tapestry  on  the 
Wall.     Old  tapestry  is  cleaned  on  the  wall, 
beginning  at  the  top.    Melt  a  bar  of  good 
common  soap  in  a  gallon  of  water,  and  put  1 
quart  of  it  in  a  gallon  of  cold  water.    A 
clothes  brush  of  fine  broom  straw  or  long 
bristles  is  best  to  dust  with;  a  soft  brush, 
piece  of  wash-leather,  some  flannels,  and  dry 
sheets  are  also  needed.    Brush  all  dust  from 
the  tapestry  first,  cleaning  the  corners  well. 
Dip  a  flannel  in  the  suds,  squeeze  it  slightly, 
rub  the  tapestry  to  a  lather,  and  brush  well 
with  a  soft  brush.     "Wring  the  flannel  out  of 
the  soap,  and  rub  the  tapestry  dry  with  it  and 
wash-leather ;  lastly  wiping  the  whole  as  dry 
as  possible  with  a  sheet,  as  it  must  not  be 
rinsed.     Melt  4  ounces  of  tartaric  acid  in  a 
pint  of  boiling  water,  and  add  to  it  2  gallons 
of  clean  water.     Squeeze  a  clean  sponge  in 
this  acid,  and  rub  it  well  into  the  place  just 
cleaned  and  dried ;  then  finish  with  the  dry 
sheet  at  once  before  going  to  the  next  yard  of 
surface.     Renew  the  suds  and  rinsing  water 
frequently,   as  well  as  the  towels,  flannels, 
etc.,  for  everything  must  be  used  clean.    A 
good  fire  should  be  kept  in  the  room  when 
tepestry  is  cleaned.     "When  dry,  rub  a  lump 
of   pipe-clay  well  into  it,  and  brush  it  out 
with  a  good  clothes  brush.     This  takes  the 
soap  out  and  brightens  the  colors.     Worsted 
work  may  be  cleaned  in  this  way. 


450.  To  Clean  Silk  and  Cotton,  or 
Silk  and  Worsted  Damask,  Terry,  or 
Brocatelle  Curtains.     Silk  and  cotton,  or 
silk  and  worsted  damask,  terry,  or  brocatelle 
curtains,  are  cleaned  over  a  board  by  scrub- 
bing with  •£  a  gallon  caniphene  and  a  brush, 
first  dipping  the  curtain  into  the  camphene, 
then  cleaning  on  the  wrong  side,  and  lastly  on 
the  right.    Dip  it  again  into  the  camphene 
just  used,  and  rinse  in  the  same  amount  of 
fresh  camphene.    Let  it  drain  a  minute,  then 
wipe  it  off  with  a  linen  or  cotton  sheet  till 
all  the  moisture  possible  is  absorbed,    and 
brush  it  with  a  dry  brush  of  soft  hair.     Hang 
them  in  the  air  a  few  hours  to  take  away  the 
smell  of  campheue.     1  gallon  is  enough  for 
each  curtain  width.    Next  roll  the  curtains  in 
half-dry  sheets  to  damp  them;  take  them 
out ;  brush  and  rub  them ;  then  iron,  with  a 
damp  cloth  laid  over  them,  and  they  will  look 
like  new. 

451.  To  Clean  Worsted  Reps.     Wors- 
ted rep  sofas,  and  worsted  furniture  of  any 
kind,  are  freshened  by  dusting  damp  Indian 
meal  over  them,  and  rubbing  off  with  a  stiff 
brush.     Dry  bran  is  said  to  answer  the  same 
purpose,  or  very  light,  dry  snow,  not  suffered 
to  melt  on  the  surface.    A  large  sheet  should 
be  spread  under  each  piece  of  furniture,  as  it 
is  cleaned,  to  catch  the  falling  litter. 

452.  To  Clean  Table-Covers  of  Cot- 
ton and  Worsted,  Silk  and  Worsted,  or 
Printed  Cloth.     Dissolve  1  bar  of  the  best 
mottled  soap  in  4  gallons  of  scalding  water, 
with  1  pound  of  pearlash  in  it.     Have  3  tubs 
ready,  and  put  in  the  first,  1  pail  of  cold  wa- 
ter and  3  gallons  of  soap  liquor ;  in  the  second, 
1  pail  of  cold  water  and  2  gallons  of  soap  li- 
quor ;  and  in  the  third,  2  pails  of  cold  water 
and  1  gallon  of  soap  liquor.    In  another  tub 
have  6  pails  of  cold  water,  with  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  oil  of  vitriol  in  it.    If  the  cover  is  cot- 
ton and  worsted,  wash  and  wring  it  through 
the  three  soap-waters ;  rinse  it  five  minutes  in 
the  vitriol  tub,  and  wring  out  of  cold,  clear 
water ;  fold  it  up  smoothly  to  drain,  and  hang 
it  to  dry  without  wringing. 

For  a  silk  and  worsted  cover  use  three  soap- 
waters  ;  rub  it  well,  and,  instead  of  the  vit- 
riol, put  a  pound  of  common  salt  in  2  pails  of 
water,  and  work  the  cloth  well  in  this.  Rinse 
it  in  2  cold  waters  after  the  salted  one,  and 
hang  it  to  dry  in  a  warm  room. 

J/printed  cloth  wash  through  three  soap- 
liquors  ;  if  one  has  a  variety  of  table-cloths, 
of  different  mixtures,  they  may  be  put  through 
the  same  suds  in  the  order  given  in  these  di- 
rections, using  different  rinses  for  each.  Give 
the  printed  cloth,  after  the  last  soap-liquor, 
two  cold  waters,  with  a  table-spoonful  of  vit- 
riol in  each ;  after  these,  a  cold,  clear  water. 
Fold  and  drain  it,  and  dry  quickly  in  a  warm 
room,  or  the  colors  will  run  into  one  another. 
To  press  table-cloths,  lay  them  under  a  damp 
sheet,  and  iron  with  a  heavy  iron. 

453.  To  Clean  White  Jean  Boots.    If 
you  have  not  boot-trees,  stuff  the  boot  as  full 
as  possible  with  common  cotton  wadding  or 
old  rags,  to  prevent  any  creases ;  then  mix 
some  pipe-clay  with  water  to  rather  a  stiff 
paste,  wash  the  jean  boots  with  soap  and  wa- 
ter and  a  nail  brush,  using  as  little  water  as 
possible  to  get  the  dirt  off'.     "When  they  look 
tolerably  clean,  rub  the  pipe-clay  with  a  flan- 


60 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


nel  well  over  them  and  hang  them  to  dry. 
"When  dry,  beat  out  the  superfluous  clay  with 
the  hand  and  rub  them  till  they  look  smooth. 
Flake  white  may  also  be  used. 

454.  To  Clean  White  Kid  Boots.    If 
the  kid  boots  are  not  very  soiled  they  may  be 
cleaned  in  the  following  manner :   Put  ^  ounce 
of  hartshorn  into  a  saucer,  dip  a  bit  of  clean 
flannel  in  it  and  rub  it  on  a  piece  of  white 
curd  soap ;  rub  the  boots  with  this,  and  as 
each  piece  of  flannel  becomes  soiled,  take  a 
fresh  piece ;  the  boots  will  look  like  new. 

455.  To  Clean  White    Satin  Shoes. 
"White  satin  shoes  may  be  cleaned  by  rubbing 
them  with  stone  blue  and  flannel,  and  after- 
wards cleaning  them  with  bread. 

456.  To    Clean    Black,    and   Other 
Silks,  with  old  Kid  Gloves.    Cut  up  a 
black  kid  glove  in  small  pieces  and  pour  a 
pint  of  boiling  water  over  it.     Cover  it  and 
let  it  stand  all  night  where  the  water  will  keep 
warm  if  possible.    In  the  morning  let  it  boil 
up,  strain  it,  and  add  1  dessert-spoonful  of  alco- 
hol.    Keep  it  warm  while  sponging  the  silk 
on  the  right  side  and  iron  immediately  on  the 
wrong  side.     For  light  silks  use  white    or 
light  kid  gloves.    It  will  do  without  the  al- 
cohol, but  is  better  with  it. 

457.  To  Clean  Black  Silks.     Steep  a 
few  hours  in  cold  water.     Then  put  J  a  pint 
of  the  Black  Eeviver  in  |  a  gallon  of  water, 
and  a  cupful  of  ox-gall.    Make  hot,  and  sponge 
the  silk.     Dry  and  smooth  with  an  iron.     {See 
next  receipt). 

Eusty  black  silk  may  be  cleaned  in  the 
same  way.  Some  persons  clean  black  silk  by 
rubbing  it  with  a  flannel  dipped  in  gin. 

458.  Black  Reviver,  to  Restore  the 
Color  of  Black  Silk,  Cloth  or  Leather. 
Take  of  blue  galls,  bruised,  4  ounces ;  logwood, 
copperas,  iron  filings  free  from  grease,  and 
sumach  leaves,   each  1  ounce.     Put  all  but 
the  iron  filings  and  copperas  into  1  quart  good 
vinegar,  and  set  the  vessel  containing  them 
in  a  warm  water  bath  for  twenty-four  hours, 
then  add  the  iron  filings  and  copperas  and 
shake  occasionally  for  a  week.    It  should  be 
kept  in  a  well-corked  bottle.    It  may  be  ap- 
plied to  faded  spots  with  a  soft  sponge.     It  is 
good  also  to  restore  the  black  color  of  leather 
when  it  turns  red,  the  leather  being  previously 
well  cleaned  with  soap  and  water. 

459.  To  Restore  Black  Silk.    To  ox- 
gall,  add  boiling  water  sufficient  to  maRe  it 
warm,  and  with  a  clean  sponge  rub  the  silk 
well  on  both  sides ;  squeeze  it  well  out,  and 
proceed  again  in  like  manner.     Einse  it  in 
spring  water,  and  change  the  water  till  per- 
fectly clean;   dry  it  in  the  air,  then  dip  the 
sponge  in  glue- water,  and  rub  it  on  the  wrong 
side ;  pin  it  out  on  a  table,  and  dry  before  a  fire. 

460.  To  Clean  Silks,  Satins,  Colored 
Woolen  Dresses,   &c.     4  ounces   of   soft 
soap,  4  ounces  of  honey,  the  white  of  an  egg, 
and  a  wine-glassful  of  gin ;  mix  well  together, 
and  scour  the  article  (which  must  be  unpicked, 
and  laid  in  widths  on  a  kitchen  table)  with  a 
rather  hard  brush,   thoroughly ;    afterwards 
rinse  it  in  cold  water,  leave  to  drain,  and  iron 
whilst  quite  damp,  with  a  piece  of  thin  muslin 
between  it  and  the  iron,  or  it  will  be  marked 
on  the  ironed  side.     The  silk,  when  laid  on  the 
table,  must  be  kept  quite  smooth,  so  that 
every    part    may    come    under    the    brush. 


"White  silk  requires  a  little  blue  in  the  water. 
This  receipt  is  an  excellent  one. 

461.  To    Raise   the  Nap  on  Cloth. 
Soak  in  cold  water  for  -£  an  hour,  then  put  on 
a  board,  and  rub  the  threadbare  parts  with  a 
half-worn  hatter's  card,  filled  with  flocks,  or 
with  a  prickly  thistle,  until  a  nap  is  raised. 
Hang  up  to  dry,  and  with  a  hard  brush  lay 
the  nap  the  right  way. 

462.  To  Renovate  Black  Crape.  Skim- 
milk  and  water,  with  a  little  bit  of  glue  in  it, 
made  scalding  hot,  will  restore  old  rusty  black 
Italian  crape.    If  clapped  and  pulled  dry, 
like  fine  muslin,  it  will  look  as  good  as  new. 

463.  To  Raise  the  Pile  on  Velvet  or 
Plush.     Hold  the  wrong  side  of  the  velvet 
over  the   steam  arising  from  boiling  water, 
until  the  pile  rises — or  dampen  lightly  the 
wrong  side  of  the  velvet  and  hold  it  over  a 
pretty  hot  iron,  not  hot  enough  to  scorch,  how- 
ever :  or,  make  a  clean  brick  hot,  place  upon 
it  a  wet  cloth,  and  hold  the  velvet  over  it, 
and  the  steam  will  raise  the  plush. 

464.  To  Restore   Creased    Ribbons. 
Creased  ribbons  may  be  restored  by  laying 
them  evenly  on  a  board,  and  with  a  very 
clean  sponge  damping  them  evenly  all  over. 
Then  roll  them   smoothly  and  tightly  on  a 
ribbon  block,  of  greater  breadth  than  the  rib- 
bon, and  let  them  remain  until  dry.     After- 
wards transfer  to  a  clean  dry  block.     Then 
wrap  in  brown  paper,  and  keep  untrl  wanted. 

465.  To  Wash  China  Crape  Scarfs. 
If  the  fabric  be  good,  these  articles  of  dress 
can  be  washed  as  frequently  as  may  be  re- 
quired, and  no  diminution  of  their  beauty  will 
be  discoverable,  even  when  the  various  shades 
of  green  have  been  employed  among  other 
colors   in  the   patterns.     In   cleaning  them, 
make  a  strong  lather  of  boiling  water,  suffer  it 
to  cool;  when  cold,  or  nearly  so,  wash  the 
scarf  quickly  and  thoroughly,  dip  it  imme- 
diately in  cold  hard  water  in  which  a  little 
salt  has  been  thrown  (to  preserve  the  colors) ; 
rinse,  squeeze,  and  hang  it  out  to  dry  in  the 
open  air ;  pin  it  at  its  extreme  edge  to  the 
line,  so  that  it  may  not  in  any  part  be  folded 
together.      The  more  rapidly    it    dries    the 
clearer  it  will  be. 

466.  To  Wash  a   Black  Lace  "Veil. 
Mix  bullock's  gall  with  sufficient  hot  water  to 
make  it  as  warm  as  you  can  bear  your  hand 
in,  and  pass  the  A'eil  through  it.     It  must  be 
squeezed,  not  rubbed ;  and  it  will  be  well  to 
perfume  the  gall  with  a  little  musk.     Einse 
the  veil  through  two  cold  waters,  tinging  the 
last  with  a  little  blue.    After  drying,  put  it 
into  some  stiffening  made  by  pouring  boiling 
water  on  a  very  small  piece  of  glue ;  squeeze 
it  out,  stretch  it,  and  clap  it.     Afterwards,  pin 
it  out  on  a  linen  cloth  to  dry,  laying  it  very 
straight  and  even,  and  taking  care  to  open 
and  pin  the  edge  very  nicely.     When  dry,  iron 
it  on  the  wrong  side,  having  laid  a  linen  cloth 
over  the  ironing  blanket. 

Any  article  of  black  lace  may  be  washed  in 
this  manner. 

467.  To  Wash  White  Silk  Stockings. 
Heat  some  rain  or  soft  water,  and  while  on 
the  fire  cut  into  it  slices  of  good  yellow  soap, 
to  make  a  lather ;  put  the  stockings  in  while 
the  lather  is  warm,  but  not  scalding,  and 
wash  them  in  two  such  waters  (a  wine-glass- 
ful of  gin  in  the  first  water  is  an  improve- 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


61 


ment);  rinse  them  well  in  lukewarm  water, 
having  ready  a  second  rinsing  water,  in 
which  is  mixed  a  little  blue  (not  the  common 
kind,  but  such  as  is  used  for  muslins  and 
laces),  or  rose  pink,  which  can  be  procured  at 
the  chemist's,  and  is  used  in  the  same  way  as 
the  blue,  by  tying  it  up  in  a  piece  of  flannel 
and  squeezing  it  into  the  water.  After  rins- 
ing, put  the  stockings  between  towels  and  let 
them  get  almost  dry ;  place  them  on  a  small 
sheet,  lay  them  out  quite  flat,  as  they  are 
when  first  purchased,  tack  them  to  the  sheet 
with  a  needle  and  thread,  turn  the  sheet  over 
them,  and  have  them  mangled.  If  it  is  not 
convenient  to  have  them  mangled  (run  be- 
tween weighted  rollers),  the  next  best  plan  is 
to  put  four  or  six  stockings  one  upon  the  other 
between  a  piece  of  muslin,  lay  them  on  a 
stone  doorstep,  and  beat  them  with  the  roll- 
ing pin.  They  must  not  be  mangled  or  beaten 
in  towels,  as  the  pattern  of  the  towels  would 
be  impressed  on  them.  If  the  stockings  have 
lace  fronts  they  will  more  particularly  require 
the  tacking  mentioned  above  to  make  them 
look  nice.  No  soda  or  washing  powder  of 
any  kind  must  be  put  to  them,  and  they 
must  be  done  quickly,  and  not  left  lying 
about. 

468.  To  Clean  Soiled  Bed  Ticks.     Ap- 
ply starch  by  rubbing  it  in  thick  with  a  wet 
cloth,  then  put  the  tick  in  the  sun.     "When 
dry,  rub  it  with  the  hands.    If  necessary,  re- 
peat the  process,  and  the  soiled  part  will  be  as 
clean  as  new. 

469.  To  Restore  the  Gloss  Finish  on 
Woolen  Goods,  removed  by  "Washing. 
Brush  the  cloth  over,   the  way  of  the  cloth, 
with  a  brush  wetted  with  very  weak  gum- 
water  ;  lay  over  it  a  sheet  of  paper  or  a  piece 
of  cloth,  and  put  it  under  a  weight  or  in  a 
screw-press  until  dry.     This  will  restore  the 
original  gloss  to  the  dull  spot  often  left  after 
washing  out  a  stain. 

470.  To  Remove  Stains  from  Black 
Crape  and  Mourning   Dresses.     Boil  a 
handful  of  fig-leaves  in  2  quarts  of  water,  un- 
til reduced  to  a  pint.     Squeeze  the  leaves, 
strain  the  liquor,  and  put  it  into  a  bottle  for 
use.     Bombazines,  crape,  cloth,  &c.,  should 
be  rubbed  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  this  liquor, 
and  most  stains  will  be  instantly  removed. 

471.  To  Clean  a  White  Lace  Veil. 
Boil  the  veil  gently  for  15  minutes  in  a  solu- 
tion of  white  soap ;  put  it  into  a  basin  holding 
warm  water  and  soap,  and  keep  gently  squeez- 
ing it  (do  not  rub  it)  till  it  is  clean,  and  then 
rinse  it  from  the  soap.     Then  take  a  vessel  of 
cold  water,  into  which  put  a  drop  or  two  of 
chemic  (see  No.  162)  or  liquid  blue ;  rinse  the 
veil    in    it.     Have   ready    some    very    clear 
gum  arable  water,  or  some  thin  rice-water. 
Pass  the  veil  through  it.     Then  stretch  it  out 
even,  and  pin  it  to  dry  on  a  linen  cloth,  mak- 
ing the  edge  as  straight  as  possible;  opening 
out  all  the  scallops,  and 'fastening  each  with 
pins.     When  dry,  lay  a  piece  of  thin  muslin 
smoothly  over  it,  and  iron  it  on  the  wrong 
side. 

472.  To  Wash  White  Silk  Lace  or 
Blond.     Take  a  black  bottle  covered  with 
clean  linen  or  muslin,   and  wind   the   blond 
round  it  (securing  the  ends  with  a  needle  and 
thread),  not  leaving  the  edge  outward,  but 
covering  it  as  you  proceed.    Set  the  bottle 


upright  in  a  strong  cold  lather  of  white  soap 
and  very  clear  soft  water,  and  place  it  in  the 
sun,  having  gently  with  your  hand  rubbed  the 
suds  up  and  down  on  the  lace.  Keep  it  in  the 
sun  every  day  for  a  week,  changing  the  lather 
daily,  and  always  rubbing  it  slightly  when  you 
renew  the  suds.  At  the  end  of  the  week, 
take  the  blond  off  the  bottle,  and  (without 
rinsing)  pin  it  backward  and  forward  on  a 
large  pillow  covered  with  a  clean  tight  case. 
Every  scallop  must  have  a  separate  pin ;  or 
more,  if  the  scallops  are  not  very  small.  The 
plain  edge  must  be  pinned  down  also,  so  as  to 
make  it  straight  and  even.  The  pins  should 
be  of  the  smallest  size.  When  quite  dry,  take 
it  off,  but  do  not  starch,  iron,  or  press  it. 
Lay  it  in  long  loose  folds,  and  put  it  away  in 
a  pasteboard  box. 

Thread  lace  may  be  washed  in  the  same 
manner. 

473.  To  Clean  Thread  Lace.  Thread 
lace  may  be  cleaned  in  the  same  manner  as 
in  last  receipt.  Or,  when  the  thread  lace 
has  been  tacked  to  the  bottle,  take  some  of  the 
best  sweet  oil  and  saturate  the  lace  thorough- 
ly. Have  ready  in  a  wash-kettle,  a  strong 
cold  lather  of  clear  water  and  white  Castile 
soap.  Pill  the  bottle  with  cold  water,  to  pre- 
vent its  bursting,  cork  it  well  and  stand  it  up- 
right in  the  suds,  with  a  string  round  the 
neck  secured  to  the  ears  or  handle  of  the  ket- 
tle, to  prevent  its  shifting  about  and  breaking 
while  over  the  fire.  Let  it  boil  in  the  suds  for 
an  hour  or  more,  till  the  lace  is  clean  and 
white  all  through.  Drain  off  the  suds  and 
dry  it  on  the  bottle  in  the  sun.  When  dry, 
remove  the  lace  from  the  bottle  and  roll  it 
round  a  white  ribbon-block ;  or  lay  it  in  long 
folds,  place  it  within  a  sheet  of  smooth  white 
paper,  and  press  it  in  a  large  book  for  a  few 


In  washing  laces,  put  12  drops  aqua  ammo- 
nia in  warm  suds. 

474.  To  Prepare  Silks  for  Washing. 

Most  colors  are  really  improved,  by  the  follow- 
ing method,  especially  red,  purple,  orange, 
blue,  olive,  puce,  <fcc.  The  more  delicate 
greens  are  not  improved,  neither  are  they  in- 
jured. This  is  likewise  the  case  with  laven- 
der. If  the  silk  is  to  be  washed  in  a  dress, 
the  seams  of  the  skirt  do  not  require  to  be 
ripped  apart,  though  ifr  must  be  removed  from 
the  band  at  the  waist,  and  the  lining  taken 
from  the  bottom.  Trimmings,  or  furniture 
where  there  are  deep  folds,  the  bottom  of 
which  is  very  difficult  to  reach,  should  be  un- 
done so  as  to  remain  flat. 

475.  To    Wash    Silks.      The   article 
should  be  laid  upon  a  clean  smooth  table.     A 
flannel  should  be  well  soaped,  being  made 
just  wet  with  lukewarm  water,  and  the  surface 
of  the  silk  rubbed  one  way,  being  careful  that 
this  rubbing  is  quite   even.     When  the  dirt 
has  disappeared,  the  soap  must  be  washed  off 
with  a  sponge,  and  plenty  of  cold  water,  of 
which  the  sponge  must  be  made  to  imbibe  as 
much  as  possible  when  the  washing  is  done. 
As  soon  as  one  side  is  finished,  the  other  must 
be   washed  precisely  in  the  same  manner. 
Let  it  be  understood  that  not  more  of  either 
surface  must  be  done  at  a  time  than  can  be 
spread  perfectly  flat  upon  the  table,  and  the 
hand  can  conveniently  reach;    likewise  the 
soap  must  be  quite  sponged  off  one  porBkm, 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


before  the  soaped  flannel  is  applied  to  another 
portion.  The  treatment  of  silks,  after  they 
have  been  thus  washed,  will  be  described 
hereafter.  (Sec  next  receipt.) 

Satin  ribbons,  both  white  and  colored,  and 
even  satin  dresses,  may  be  cleansed  with 
good  effect  by  this  process,  which  is  likewise 
very  effective  in  renovating  all  kinds  of  silk 
ribbons  and  trimmings. 

476.  To  Stiffen  Silk  for  Trimmings. 
Sponge  the  surface  of  the  silk  with  a  weak 
solution  of  gum  arabic,  or  with  equal  parts 
of  ale  and  water,  and  iron,  while  damp,  on 
the  wrong  side.    This  is  excellent  when  old 
eilk  is  to  be  used  for  trimming,  and  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  keep  it  stiff. 

477.  To  Wash  Silk   Pocket   Hand- 
kerchiefs.    Sflk    pocket   handkerchiefs    re- 
quire to  be  washed  by  themselves,  and  those 
containing  snuff  should  be  put  to  soak  in 
separate  lukewarm  water.  Two  or  three  hours 
after,  they  should  be  rinsed  out  and  nut  to 
soak  with  the  others  in  cold  water  for  an 
hour  or  two.    They  should  then  be  washed 
out  in  lukewarm  water,  being  soaped  as  they 
are  washed.     If  all  the  stains  are  not  out  of 
them,  they  must  be  washed  through  a  second 
water  of  the  same  description.    When  fin- 
ished, they  should  be  rinsed  in  cold  soft  wa- 
ter, in  which  a  handful  of  common  salt  has 
been  dissolved.     They  may  be  rinsed  all  to- 
gether,  being  thrown,  as  fast    as  they    are 
washed,  into  a  dry  tub,  whence,  when  all  are 
done,  they  are  transferred  to  the  rinsing  tub. 

478.  To  Wash  Point  Lace.    By  fol- 
lowing the  directions  laid  down  in  this  receipt, 
ladies  may  wash  and  finish  their  own  point 
lace  as  thoroughly  as  any  French  laundress. 
Mix  a  tea-spoonful  powdered  borax  in  a  basin 
of  strong  white  Castile  soap-suds.     Baste  the 
lace  to  be  washed,  very  carefully,  with  fine 
cotton,    upon    two    thicknesses    of    flannel. 
Soak  the  lace,  thus  arranged,  in  the  soap-suds 
mixture  for  24  hours,  or  longer  if  very  dirty, 
changing  the  suds  two  or  three  times.    Then 
let  it  lie  for  2  or  3  hours  in  clean  water  to 
rinse,  changing  the  water  once.    Squeeze  it 
out  (do  not  wring  it),  and,  when  partially  dry, 
place  the  flannel  with  the  lace  on  it,  lace 
downwards,  on  two  thicknesses  of  dry  flannel 
laid  on  a  table,  and  smooth  it  with  a  hot  iron. 
During  the  whole  process,  the  lace  must  re- 
main basted  on  the  flannel ;  and  when  it  is 
pressed,  must  lie  sandwiched    between  the 
dry  and  damp  flannel,  and  pressed  upon  the 
latter.    "When  the  lace  is  perfectly  dry,  rip  it 
off. 

479.  Twelvetree's  Washing  Fluid  for 
White  Linen  and  Cotton  Articles.     Set 
aside  the  flannels  and  colored  things,  as  they 
must  not  be  washed  in  this  way,  then  select 
from  the  clothes  to  be  washed,  all  the  coarse 
and  dirtiest  pieces  from  the  fine;  then  put 
them  in  separate  tubs  of  soft  water  to  soak 
overnight  (the  night  previous  to  washing.) 
Then  prepare  in  a  separate  vessel,  the  liquid 
for  a  large  washing,  namely,  %  pound  of  good 
brown  soap,  cut  in  small  pieces;  -J  pound  soda, 
and  3  ounces  fresh,  unslacked  lime,  mixed  in 
1  gallon  of  boiling  soft  water.   Stir  well  up,  so 
as  to  mix  the  ingredients,  and  let  it  stand  un- 
til morning.    Then  strain  off  the  liquid,  being 
careful  to  leave  all  sediment  behind.    Having 
ready  about  10  gallons  of  boiling  soft  water  in 


the  boiler,  pour  in  the  prepared  liquid  (keep- 
ing out  all  settlings  that  may  yet  be  remain- 
ing) then  throw  in  your  clothes  and  boil  them 
twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour.  Previous 
to  which,  put  an  earthen  plate  at  the  bottom 
of  the  boiler,  to  prevent  the  clothes  from 
burning.  After  boiling  the  appointed  time, 
take  them  out;  scald  them,  blue  them,  and 
rinse  them  in  clean  soft  water,  warm  or  cold, ; 
and  the  clothes  will  be  as  clean  and  white  as 
snow.  By  this  method,  the  finest  linens, 
laces,  cambrics,  etc.,  can  be  readily  and  easi- 
ly cleansed  with  very  little  trouble. 

Should  there  be  only  a  small  washing,  and 
less  than  10  gallons  of  water  required  to  boil 
them  in,  less  of  the  liquid  of  lime,  soap,  and 
soda,  can  be  used  in  proportion.  "When  there 
is  any  difficulty  in  procuring  fresh  lime,  a 
quantity  of  the  liquor  may  be  made  at  once 
from  the  lime,  which  will  keep  for  years, 
corked  in  bottles,  and  ready  for  use. 

480.  Bingham's  Patent  Wash  Mix- 
ture.    Take  5  pounds  of  bar  soap,  shave  fine, 
add  1  quart  of  lye,  £  oxmce  pearlash,  dis- 
solved over  a  slow  fire.    "When  dissolved,  put 
into  a  vessel  prepared  for  it  to  stand  in ;  then 
add  J  pint  turpentine,  1  gill  hartshorn ;  stir 
well,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

481.  To  Make  Washing  Fluid.    To  1 

fallen  of  common  soft  soap,  (such  as  is  made 
y  the  usual  method  of  boiling  the  lye  of 
wood  ashes  and  fat  together),  take  4  ounces 
sal- soda,  -J  gallon  rain  or  soft  water,  and  ^  gill 
spirits  of  turpentine ;  place  them  all  in  a  pot 
over  the  fire,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  boil  a 
few  minutes ;  it  is  then  ready  for  use,  and  can 
be  kept  in  any  earthen  or  stoneware  vessel. 

482.  Washing  Made  Easy.    The  wash- 
erwomen of  Holland  and  Belgium,  so  prover- 
bially clean,  and  who  get  their  linen  so  beauti- 
fully white,  used  refined  borax  as  .washing 
powder  instead  of  soda,  in  the  proportion  of 
\  a  pound  of  borax  powder  to  10  gallons,  of 
water.    They  save  soap  nearly  one  half.    All 
the  large  washing  establishments  adopt  the 
same  mode.    For  laces,   cambrics,    etc.,   an 
extra  quantity  of  powder  is  used;   and  for 
crinolines    (requiring   to    be  made  stiff)    a 
stronger  solution  is  necessary.     Borax,  being 
a  neutral  salt,  does  not  in  the  slightest  degree 
injure  the  texture  of  the  linen.     Its  effect  is 
to  soften  the  hardest  water,  and  therefore  it 
should  be  kept  on  the  toilet  table. 

483.  White  Lye  for  Washing.     This 
is  made  by  pouring  a  pailful  of  boiling  water 
over  4  or  5  quarts  of  ashes.    Let  it  stand  a 
while  to  infuse ;  then  pour  in  cold  water  to 
settle  it,  when  yoit  can  pour  it  off  clear. 
This  is  very  good  to  boil  dirty  clothes  in. 
"When  made  nice,  is  equal  to  soda,  and  does 
not,  unless  made  extremely  strong,  injure  the 
clothes. 

484.  To  Wash  Linen  in  Salt  Water. 
Drop    into  sea  water   a  solution  of  soda  or 
potash.    It  will  become  milky,  in  consequence 
of  the  decomposition  of  the  earthy  salts,  and 
the  precipitation  of  the  earths.    This  addition 
renders  it  soft,  and  capable  of  washing.    Its 
milkiness  will  have  no  injurious  effect. 

485.  To  Wash  an  Alpaca,  Mousse- 
line-de-Laine.  or  Lama  Dress  that  has 
Bright  or  Delicate  Colors.    Boil  1  pound 
best  rice  in  1  gallon  water  for  three  hours. 
"When  boiled,  pour  off  what  will  be  sufficient 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


63 


to  starch  the  dress ;  wash  the  dress  well  in 
the  remainder,  rice  and  all,  using  the  rice  for 
soap;  rinse  it  in  clean  cold  water,  wring  it 
well,  then  starch  it  with  the  rice  water  that 
was  kept  for  that  purpose,  and  hang  it  before 
the  fire  to  dry.  When  dry  enough,  iron  with 
a  cool  iron,  as  it  is  liable  to  scorch.  If  some 
parts  of  the  dress  get  too  dry,  they  must  be 
damped  with  a  wet  cloth  whilst  ironing.  No 
soap  must  be  used.  The  best  way  is  to  boil 
the  rice  on  the  previous  day,  and  merely  warm 
it  up  the  next  morning,  for  then  you  have  the 
day  before  you  to  complete  the  whole,  as  the 
dress  must  on  no  account  lie  damp,  even  for  an 
hour,  or  the  colors  will  be  sure  to  run.  This 
receipt  will  be  found  equally  well  suited  to 
delicate  painted  muslins  and  pique's  as  to 
lama  and  alpaca  dresses. 

486.  To  Wash  Colored  Muslins.  In 
washing  colored  muslins  and  linens,  there  are 
several  very  essential  points  to  be  observed, 
whereby  the  colors  are  preserved  from  injury. 
In  the  first  place,  they  should  not  be  soaped 
or  soaked  over  night,  as  the  more  delicate 
of  the  hues  would  be  deteriorated  by  such 
process.  "When  ready  for  washing,  they 
should,  if  not  too  dirty,  be  put  into  cold  wa- 
ter and  washed  up  very  speedily ;  if  very 
dirty,  the  water  may  be  lukewarm  and  no 
more.  But  above  all,  be  careful  not  to  use 
the  smallest  particle  of  soda.  The  best  soap 
for  washing  articles  made  of  this  material  is 
the  common  yellow.  It  is  much  better  than 
the  mottled,  because  it  is  less  harsh,  and  re- 
,  moves  the  dirt  in  a  shorter  period.  A  small 
piece  of  alum  should  be  boiled  in  the  water  in 
which  the  lather  is  made.  The  soap  should 
not  be  allowed  to  remain  any  time  on  the 
linen ;  the  latter  should  be  soaped  and  washed 
as  rapidly  as  possible,  and  not  lie  in  the  water 
any  length  of  time.  One  article  should  there- 
fore be  washed  at  a  time,  and  immediately 
rinsed  through  two  cold  waters,  the  others 
remaining  in  a  dry  state  by  the  side  of  the 
tub  until  they  are  taken  to  be  washed  each  in 
its  turn.  The  liquid  in  which  the  articles  are 
to  be  rinsed  in  succession  immediately  as 
they  are  washed,  should  consist  of  3  or  4  gal- 
lons of  cold  soft  water,  with  a  handful  of  table 
salt  dissolved  in  it.  Should  alum  not  be  added 
to  the  lather,  then  a  tea-spoonful  of  vinegar 
should  be  stirred  into  the  water  for  each  rins- 
ing; this  will  help  to  fix  and  brighten  the 
colors.  The  moment  an  article  is  taken  from 
the  rinsing  tub,  it  should  be  wrung  very  gent- 
ly, being  twisted  as  little  as  can  be  helped. 
After  rinsing,  they  should  be  hung  out  imme- 
diately to  dry. 

487.  To'Preserve  the  Colors  of  Meri- 
no, Mousselines -de - Laine,  Gingham, 
Chintz,  and  Printed  Lawns.  Before 
washing  almost  any  colored  fabrics,  it  is 
recommended  to  soak  them  for  some  time  in 
water  to  every  gallon  of  which  is  added  a 
spoonful  of  ox-gall.  A  tea-cup  of  lye  in  a 
pail  of  water  is  said  to  improve  the  color  of 
black  goods,  when  it  is  necessary  to  wash 
them.  A  strong  clean  tea  of  common  hay 
will  preserve  the  color  of  French  linens. 
Vinegar  in  the  rinsing  water,  for  pink  or 
green,  will  brighten  those  colors,  and  soda 
answers  the  same  end  for  both  purple  and 
blue. 

The  colors  of  the  above  fabrics  may  be  pre- 


served by  using  a  strong  milk-warm  lather  of 
white  soap,  and  putting  the  dress  into  it,  in- 
stead of  rubbing  it  on  the  material,  and  stirring 
into  a  first  and  second  tub  of  water  a  large 
table-spoonful  of  ox-gall.  (See  No.  489.) 

488.  Hints    for    Washing   Colored 
Clothes.     No  colored  articles  should  ever  be 
boiled  or  scalded.     Neither  should  they  be  al- 
lowed to  freeze,  or  the  colors  will  be  irrepara- 
bly injured.    They  should  be  ironed  immedi- 
ately they  are  dry  enough,  and  not  be  allowed 
to  lie  damp  over  night,  nor  be   sprinkled. 
They  should  not  be  smoothed  with  a  hot  iron. 
Pink  and  green    colors,  though    they   may 
withstand  the  washing,  will  frequently  change 
as  soon  as  a  hot  iron  is  put  over  them. 

489.  To  Prepare  Ox-gall  for  Wash- 
ing Colored  Articles.     Empty  the  gall  in 
a  bottle,  put  in  it  a  handful  of  salt,  and  keep 
it  closely  corked.    A  tea-cupful  to  5  gallons 
of  water  will  prevent  colored  articles  from 
fading. 

490.  The  French  Method  of  Wash- 
ing Colored  Muslins,  Piques,  &c.    Pre- 
pare some  rather  warm  (not  hot)  lather,  made 
with  soft  water  and  the  best  white  soap; 
wash  the  dresses  one  at  a  time,  but  do  not 
soak  them.    As  soon  as  the  first  lather  looks 
soiled,  squeeze  the  dress  from  it,  and  at  once 
wash  it  again  in  a  fresh  lather.    When  thor- 
oughly clean,  rinse  in  pure  cold  water,  lastly 
in  water  slightly  blued ;  squeeze  (not  wring) 
the  water  completely  from  the  dress,  and  hang 
it  in  a  shaded  place  to'  dry ;  if  wet  weather, 
dry  it  by  the  fire.    The  best  prints  will  fade 
if  hung  in  the  sunshine. 

491.  To  Bender  the  Colors  of  Cotton 
Fabrics  Permanent.     Dissolve  3  gills    of 
salt  in  4  quarts  of  water ;  put  the  calico  in 
while  hot,  and  leave  it  till  cold,  and  in  this 
way  the  colors  are  rendered  permanent,  and 
will  not  fade  by  subsequent  washing. 

492.  To  Wash  Chintz,  so  as  to  Pre- 
serve its  Gloss  and  Color.     Take  2  pounds 
of  rice  and  boil  it  in  2  gallons  of  water,  till 
soft ;  when  done,  pour  the  whole  into  a  tub ; 
let  it  stand  and  cool  till  about  the  usual 
warmth  for  colored  linens ;  put  the  chintz  in, 
and  use  the  rice  instead  of  soap ;  wash  it  in 
this  till  the  dirt  appears  to  be  out ;  then  boil 
the  same  quantity  as  above,  but  strain  the 
rice  from  the  water,  and  mix  it  in  warm  water. 
Wash  it  in  this  till  quite  clean;  afterwards 
rinse  it  in  the  water  the  rice  .was  boiled  in ; 
this  will  answer  the  end  of  starch,  and  no 
dew  will  affect  it,  as  it  will  be  stiff  while  it  is 
worn.     If  a  dress,  it  must  be  taken  to  pieces, 
and  when  dried,  hang  it  as  smooth  as  possible ; 
when  dry,  rub  it  with  a  smooth  stone,  but  use 
no  iron. 

493.  To    Wash    Flannels    or   other 
Woolen  Articles.     Have  the    suds    ready 
prepared  by  boiling  up  some  good  white  soap 
in  soft  water,  but  do  not  use  the  suds  when 
boiling ;  let  them  be  as  hot  as  the  hand  will 
bear  when  the  articles  are  put  in.     The  flan- 
nels should  not  be  rubbed  with  soap,  nor 
should  the  material  itself  be  rubbed,  as  in 
washing  linen,  <fec.,  rubbing  knots  the  fibres 
of  the  wool  together ;  hence  the  thickening  of 
the  fabric  and  consequent  shrinking   in  its 
dimensions.     Sluice  the  articles  up  and  down 
.n  plenty  of  suds,  which  afterwards  squeeze 
[not  wring)  out.    The  patent  clothes-wringers 


64: 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


are  a  great  improvement  upon  hand  labor,  as, 
without  injury  to  the  fabric,  they  squeeze  out 
the  water  so  thoroughly  that  the  article  dries 
in  considerably  less  time  than  it  would  do 
even  after  the  most  thorough  hand  wringing. 
After  rinsing,  squeeze  out  the  water,  and  dry 
in  the  open  air,  if  the  weather  is  such  as  to 
admit  of  the  articles  drying  quickly ;  if  not, 
dry  in  a  warm  room,  but  avoid  too  close 
proximity  to  a  fire.  Let  any  dust  or  mud  be 
beaten  out  or  brushed  off  prior  to  washing. 

All  flannels  should  be  soaked  before  they 
are  made  up,  first  in  cold  and  then  in  hot  wa- 
ter, in  order  to  shrink  them. 

494.  To    Shrink    Flannel.      Flannel 
should  be  soaked  in  cold  hard  water  before 
making,  and  hung  up  to  drain  and  dry  without 
any    squeezing    or   handling   in  the   water. 
After  this  it  will  not  shrink  in  washing.     Fill  a 
tnb  with  spring  water,  place  the  flannel  in  it, 
and  take  out  as  soon  as  it  sinks  to  the  bottom. 
It  does  not  lose  the  appearance  of  new  flannel 
when  dry. 

495.  To  Wash  Bed  Flannel.    To  wash 
red  or  scarlet  flannel  when  soiled,  mix  a  hand- 
ful of  flour  in  a  quart  of  cold  water,  and  boil 
ten  minutes.    Add  this  to  some  warm  suds, 
and  wash  the  flannel  gently;  rinsing  rather 
than  rubbing  it  (see  No.  493),  rinse  it  in  three 
or  four  warm  waters,  and  the  brightest  scarlet 
will  never  lose  its  color.     Soft  soap  or  olive 
soap  should  be  used  for  woolen  goods  in  prefer- 
ence to  bar  soap. 

496.  Scotch    Method    of    Washing 
Woolen    Shawls.     Scrape  1    pound  soap, 
boil  it  down  in  sufficient  water.    "When  cool- 
ing, beat  it  with  the  hand ;  it  will  be  a  sort  of 
jelly.    Add  3  table-spoonfuls  spirit  of  turpen- 
tine, and  1  of  spirit  of  hartshorn.    "Wash  the 
articles  well  in  it,  then  rinse  in  cold  water  until 
all  the  soap  is  taken  off,  then  in  salt  and  wa- 
ter.    Fold  between  two  sheets,  taking  care 
not  to  allow  two  folds  of  the  article  washed 
to  lie  together.     Iron  with  a  very  cool  iron. 
Shflfc-ls  done  in  this  way  look  like  new.     Only 
use  the  salt  where  there  are  delicate  colors 
that  may  run. 

497.  To  Make  Starch  for  Linen,  Cot- 
ton, &c.     To  1  ounce  of  the  best  starch  add 
just  enough  soft  cold  water  to  make  it  (by 
rubbing  and  stirring)  into  a  thick  paste,  care- 
fully breaking  all  the  lumps  and  particles. 
"When  rubbed  perfectly  smooth,  add  nearly  or 
quite  a  pint  of  boiling  water  (with  bluing  to 
suit  the  taste),  and  boil  for  at  least  liatf  an 
hour,  taking  care  to  stir  it  well  all  the  time, 
to  prevent  its  burning.     "When  not  stirring, 
keep  it  covered,  so  as  to  protect  it  from  dust, 
etc.    Also  keep  it  covered  when   removed 
from  the  fire,  to  prevent  a  scum  from  rising 
upon  it.    To  give  the  linen  a  fine,  smooth, 
glossy  appearance,  and  prevent  the  iron  from 
sticking,  add  a  little  spermaceti  (a  piece  as 
large  as  a  nutmeg)  to  the  starch,  when  boil- 
ing, and  \  a  tea-spoonful  of  the  finest  table- 
salt.    If  you  have  no  spermaceti,  take  a  piece 
of  the  purest,  whitest  hog's  lard,  or  tallow 
(mutton  is  the  best),  about  as  large  as  a  nut- 
meg, or  twice  this  quantity  of  the  best  refined 
loaf  sugar,  and  boil  with  the  starch.     In  iron- 
ing linen  collars,  shirt  bosoms,  etc.,  their  ap- 
pearance will  be  much  improved  by  rubbing 
them,  before  ironing,  with  a  clean  white  towel, 
dampened  in  soft  water.    The  bosom  of  a 


shirt  should  be  the  last  part  ironed,  as  this 
will  prevent  its  being  soiled.  All  starch, 
should  be  strained  before  using. 

498.  Gum  Arabic  Starch  for  Making 
Shirt-Bosoms   Glossy.     Procure  2  ounces 
of  fine  white  gum  arabic,  and  pound  it  to 
powder.     oSText  put  it  into  a  pitcher,  and  pour 
on  it  a  pint  or  more  of  boiling  water,  accord- 
ing to  the  degree  of  strength  you  desire,  and 
then,  having  covered  it,  let  it  set  all  night. 
In  the  morning,  pour  it  carefully  from  the 
dregs  into  a  clean  bottle,  cork  it,  and  keep,-jt 
for  use.     A  table-spoonful  of  gum  Avater  stir^> 
red  into  a  pint  of  starch  that  has  been  made 
in  the  usual  manner,  will  give  a  beautiful  gloss 
to  shirt-bosoms,  and  to  lawns  (either  white  or 
printed)  a  look  of  newness  to  which  nothing 
else  can  restore  them  after  washing.     It  is 
also  good  (much  diluted)  for  thin  white  mus- 
lin and  bobbinet. 

499.  To  Make  Starch  for  Colored  Ar- 
ticles.    For    starching    muslins,    ginghams, 
and  calicoes,  dissolve  and  add  to  every  pint 
of  starch,  a  piece  of  alum  the  size  of  a  shell- 
bark.     By    so  doing,   the  colors    will    keep 
bright  for  a  long  time,  which  is  very  desirable 
when  dresses  must  be  often  washed,  and  the 
cost  is  but  a  trifle. 

500.  To  Starch  Muslins  and  Piques. 
In  getting  up  muslins  and  piques,  the  failure 
is  not  generally  in  the  washing,  but  in  the 
starching.    A    good-sized    panful    of   starch 
should  be  used,  in  which  3  or  4  inches  of 
spermaceti  candle  has  been  melted  whilst  hot. 
The  articles  should  be  thoroughly  squeezed 
from  the  starch,  and  folded  whilst  wet,  be- 
tween folds  of  old  sheeting  or  table  linen. 
They  should  then  be  passed  through  a  wring- 
ing machine.     All  lumps  of  starch  are  thus 
removed. 

Piqu6s  should  be  ironed  as  lightly  as  possi- 
ble, and  the  iron  ought  never  to  come  into 
contact  with  the  outside  surface  of  the  pique. 
An  old  cambric  handkerchief  is  the  best 
thing  to  use  under  the  iron  where  absolutely 
necessary  to  iron  on  the  right  side. 

501.  To  Clear-starch  Lace,  Cambric 
and  Book  Muslin.     Starch  for  laces  should 
be  thicker  and  used  hotter  than  for  linens. 
After  the  laces  have  been  well  washed  and 
dried,  dip  them  into  the  thick  hot  starch  in 
such  a  way  as  to  have  every  part  properly 
starched.    Then  wring  all  the  starch  out  of 
them,  spread  them  out  smooth  on  a  piece  of 
linen,  roll  them  up  together,  and  let  them  re- 
main for  about  half  an  hour,  when  they  will 
be  dry  enough  to  iron.     Laces  should  never 
be  clapped  between  the  hands,  as  it  injures 
them.      Cambrics  do  not    require    so   thick 
starch  as  net  or  lace.     Some  people  prefer  cold 
or  raw  starch  for  book-nraslin,  as  some  of  this 
kml  of  muslin  has  a  thick,  clammy  appear- 
ance if  starched  in  boiled  starch.     Fine  laces 
are  sometimes  wound  round  a  glass  bottle  to 
dry,  which  prevents  them  from  shrinking. 

502.  To  Fold  Clothes  after  Drying 
on  the  Line.     Fold  the  fine  articles  and  roll 
theni  in  a  towel,  and  then  fold  the  rest,  turning 
them  all  the  right  side  outward.    Lay  the  col- 
ored articles  separate  from  the  rest.    They 
should  not  remain  damp  long,  as  the  colors 
might  be  injured,  and  starched  fabrics  are  apt 
to  mildew.     Sheets  and  table  linen  should  be 
shaken  and  folded. 


TO    REMOVE    STAINS    AND    SPOTS. 


65 


503.  To  Iron  Clothes.     In  ironin 
shirt,  first  do  the  back,  then  the  sleeves,  then 
the  collar  and  bosom,   and  then  the  front 
Iron  calicoes  generally  on  the  right  side,  as  they 
thus  keep  clean  for  a  longer  time.     In  ironing 
a  frock,  first  do  the  waist,  then  the  sleeves 
then  the  skirt.     Keep  the  skirt  rolled  while 
ironing  the  other  parts,  and  set  a  chair  to  hole 
the  sleeves  while  ironing  the  skirt,  unless  a 
skirt-board  be  used.     Silk  should  be  ironed  on 
the  wrong  side,  when  quite  damp,  with  an  iron 
which  is  not  very  hot,  as  light  colors  are  apt  to 
change  and  fade.  In  ironing  velvet,  turn  up  the 
face  of  the  iron,  and  after  dampening  the  wrong 
side  of  the  velvet,  draw  it  over  the  face  01 
the  iron,  holding  it  straight ;  always  iron  lace 
and  needlework  on  the  wrong  side,  and  put 
them  away  as  soon  as  they  are  dry. 

504.  To    Restore    Scorched    Linen. 
It  is  almost  needless  to  premise  that  if  the 
tissue  of  linen  is  so  much  burnt    that  no 
strength  is  left,  it  is  useless  to  apply  the  fol- 
lowing composition;   for  nothing  could  pre- 
vent a  hole  from  being  formed,  although  the 
composition  by  no  means  tends  to  injure  the 
fabric.     But  if  the  scorching  is  not    quite 
through,  and  the  threads  not  actually  con- 
sumed, then  the  application  of  this  composi- 
tion, followed  by  two  or  three  good  washings, 
will  restore  the  linen  to  its  original  color ;  the 
marks  of  the  scorching  will  be  so  totally  ef- 
faced as  to  be  imperceptible,  and  the  place 
will  seem  as  white  and  perfect  as  any  other 
part  of  the  linen.    Mix  well  together  2  ounces 
fuller's  earth  reduced  to  a  powder ;   1  ounce 
hen's  dung ;  £  ounce  of  cake  soap,  scraped ; 
and  the  juice  of  2  large  onions,  obtained  by 
the  onions  being  cut  up,  beaten  in  a  mortar, 
and  pressed.     Boil  this  mass  in  -J-  pint  strong 
vinegar,  stirring  it  from  time  to  time,  until  it 
forms  a  thick  liquid  compound.     Spread  this 
composition  thickly  over  the  entire  surface  of 
the  scorched  part,  and  let  it  remain  on  24  hours. 
If  the  scorching  was  light,  this  will  prove 
sufficient,  with  the  assistance  of  two  subse- 
quent washings,  to  take  out  the  stain.     If, 
however,  the  scorching  was  strong,  a  second 
coating  of  the  composition  should  be  put  on 
after  removing  the  first ;  and  this  should  also 
remain  on  for  24  hours.     If,  after  the  linen 
has  been  washed  twice  or  thrice,  the  stain  has 
not  wholly  dissappeared,  the  composition  may 
be  used  again,  in  proportion  to  the  intensity 
of  the  discoloration  remaining,  when  a  com- 
plete cure  will  seldom  fail  to  be  effected.    It 
has  scarcely  ever  happened  that  a  third  appli- 
cation was  found  necessary.     The  remainder 
of  the  composition  should  be  kept  for  use  in 
a  gallipot  tied  over  with  bladder. 

505.  To  Remove  the  Stain  of  Per- 
spiration.    For  removing  the  stain  of  per- 
spiration a  strong  solution  of  soda  is  first  to 
be  applied,  with  a  subsequent  rinsing  with 
water. 

506.  To  Bleach  Yellow  Linen.     Linen 
that  has  acquired  a  yellow  or  bad  color  by 
careless    washing,   may  be    restored    to    its 
former  whiteness  by  working  it  well  in  water 
containing  a  clear  solution  of  chloride  of  lime, 
rinsing  it  well  in  clean  water,  both  before  and 
after  using  the  bleaching  liquor.    Never  at- 
tempt to  bleach  unwashed  linen,  and  avoid 
using  the  liquor  too  strong,  as  in  that  case 
the  linen  will  be  rendered  rotten. 


507.  To    Bleach    Yellow    Flannel. 

Flannel  which  has  become  yellow  with  use 
may  be  whitened  by  putting  it  for  some  time 
in  a  solution  of  hard  soap,  to  which  strong 
ammonia  has  been  added.  The  proportions 
are  1£  pounds  hard  curd  soap,  50  pounds  of 
salt  water  and  $-  pound  strong  ammonia.  The 
same  object  may  be  attained  in  a  shorter 
time  by  placing  the  garments  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  in  a  weak  solution  of  bisulphite  of 
soda  to  which  a  little  hydrochloric  acid  has 
been  added. 

508.  How  to  Whiten  Flannel  and 
Woolen  Hose.      Wet  the  flannel  yarn  or 
hose    (whatever   you    wish    to    whiten)    in 
weak  suds ;  wring  out.    Then  hang  on  sticks 
or  cords  across  a  barrel  with  2  table-spoonfuls 
of  pulverized  brimstone  or  sulphur  burning 
under  it;  cover  the  barrel  tightly.     If  they 
are  not  white  enough,  repeat  the  process ; 
hang  in  the  open  air  a  day,  then  wash  and 
rinse   in  bluing  water.      Be  careful  not  to 
have  the  sulphur  blaze  and  scorch  the  gar- 
ments. 

509.  To    Bleach   Brown    Sheeting. 
Having  soaked  the  cloth  12  hours  in  strong 
soap-suds,  take  i  pound  chloride  of  lime  for 
every  12  yards  of  sheeting,  and  dissolve  it  in 
enough  boiling  water  to  cover  the  cloth  when 
dipped  into  it.     As  soon  as  the  lime  is  dis- 
solved, strain  the  solution  through  a  flannel 
or  other  coarse  cloth,  then  put  the  brown 
sheeting  in  the  strained  lime-water,  stirring 
constantly,  and  after  it  has  remained  thus  in 
this  liquor  for  about  half  an  hpur,  take  out 
the  cloth  and  rinse  it  well  in  pure  water,  so  as 
to  be  sure  to  remove  all  the  lime-water ;  and 
then  boil  it  up  in  strong  soap-suds,  and  hang 
out  to  dry,  and  the  work  of  weeks  will  have 
been  accomplished  in  a  day  or  two. 

510.  Bleaching  by  Oil  of  Turpentine. 
German  authority  recommends  the  use  of 

oil  of  turpentine  in  bleaching  white  goods. 
Dissolve  1  part  oil  of  turpentine  in  3  parts 
strong  alcohol,  place  a  table-spoonful  of  the 
mixture  in  the  water  used  for  the  last  rinsing. 
The  clothes  are  to  be  immersed  in  this,  well 
wrung  out,  and  placed  in  the  open  air  to  dry. 
The  bleaching  action  of  the  oil  consists  in  its 
changing  oxygen  into  ozone  when  exposed  to 
the  light,  and  in  this  process  the  turpentine 
disappears,  leaving  no  trace  behind. 

511.  To  Clean  Straw  Bonnets.     First 
brush  them  with  soap  and  water ;  then  with 
a  solution  of  oxalic  acid. 

512.  To  Clean  Door-Plates.     To  clean 
silver  door-plates,  use  a  weak  solution  of  am- 
monia in  water,  applied  with  a  wet  rag.     This 
wash  is  equally  useful  for  silver  plate  and 
"ewelry. 

513.  To  Clean  Plated- Ware.  Make  a 
mste  with  whiting  and  alcohol,  apply  it  to 
;he  plated  articles,  and  after  it  is  dry,  rub  it 

off  with  a  brush  (if  rough),  or  a  soft  rag,  if 

smooth. 

514.  To  Remove  Bust   Spots   from 
Marble.     Rust  spots  can  be  made  to  disap- 
>ear  by  treatment  with  a  weak  solution  com- 
)osed  of  1  part  nitric  acid  and  25  of  water, 
ind  afterward  rinsing  with  waterand  ammonia. 

515.  To   Remove    Ink    Spots  from 
YEarble.     Ink  spots  may  be  removed  by  first 

washing  with   pure  water,  and  then  with  a 
weak  solution  of  oxalic  acid.      Subsequent 


66 


THE    ART    OF    SOAP-MAKING. 


polishing,  however,  will  be  necessary,  as  the 
lustre  of  the  stone  may  become  dimmed. 
This  can  be  best  secured  by  very  finely 
powdered  soft  white  marble,  applied  with  a 
linen  cloth  first  dipped  in  water  and  then 
into  the  powder.  If  the  place  be  subsequent- 
ly rubbed  with  a  dry  cloth  the  lustre  will  be 
restored. 

516.  To  Remove  Copper  Spots  from 
Marble.     Copper  spots  may  be  removed  by 
diluted  sulphuric  acid  and  ammonia,  and  sub- 
sequently with  water  and  ammonia. 

517.  To  Remove  Match  Stains  from 
Marble.    Spots  from  sulphur  and  phosphorus, 
caused  by  lucifer-matches,  can  be  extracted 
from  marble  by  sulphide  of  carbon. 


The  Art  of  Soap-Making. 
Soap  is  a  chemical  combination  of    a 
fatty  substance  with  caustic  lye,  the  base  of 
which  is  either  potash  or  soda;   the  former 
producing  soft,  and  the  latter,  hard  soaps. 

519.  To   Make   Soap-makers'   Lye. 
To  1  part  of  quicklime,  slacked  by  sprinkling 
on  it  sufficient  water  to  crumble  it,   add  a 
solution  of  3  parts  soda  in  5  parts  water.     For 
soft-soap  lye,  an  equal  quantity  of  potash  is 
substituted  for  the  soda.     Stir  the  mixture 
and  allow  it  to  settle ;  the  clear  liquid  is  then 
poured  off,  and  constitutes  the  first  lye,  and  is 
of  a  strength  of  25°  to  30°  Baume" ;  the  second, 
third  and  fourth  lye  is  each  obtained  by  add- 
ing successively  5  parts  water,  stirring  tho- 
roughly, allowing  it  to  settle,  and  pouring  off 
the  clear  liquid ;  producing  respectively  a  lye 
of  from  12°  to  18°,  8°  to  10°,  and  2°  to  5° 
Baume". 

520.  To    Make  Soap.      Having    thus 
prepared  the  lye,  the  first,  second  and  third 
lyes  being  sufficient    for  general    purposes, 
take  20  pounds  of  pure  grease,  and  melt  it 
slowly  in  an  iron  vessel ;  keep  it  at  a  moderate 
heat,  and  stir  in,  a  little  at  a  time,  10  pounds 
third,  lye  ;  after  stirring  for  about  an  hour,  let 
the  mixture  get  up  to  a  boiling  heat,  and  then 
stir  in,  by  degrees,  10  pounds  second  lye  ;  this 
will  complete  the  first  stage  of  the  process, 
which  is  termed  saponification.     The  next 
step,  called  cutting  up  the  pan,  is  to  add,  by 
degrees,  a  mixture  of  soda  and  lye  with  from 
2  to  3  pounds  common  salt;   this  separates 
the  excess  of  water  from  the  curd,  leaving  a 
soapy  paste;    boil   and  stir  for  some  time, 
then  let  it  settle,  and  draw  off   the  water. 
The  third  operation,  clear  boiling,  has  now  to 
be  performed ;  stir  into  the  paste,  by  degrees, 
5  pounds  first  lye  ;  and,  when  perfectly  mixed 
and  smooth,  boil  the  whole  for  two  hours; 
should  the  soap,  during  the  intervals,  become 
too  liquid,  which  may  happen  when  too  weak 
a  lye  has  been  used,  some  salt,  or  a  weak  lye 
containing  salt,  must  be  added.    The  boiling 
is  terminated  when  large,  regular,  dry  scales 
appear  on  the  surface ;  when  this  is  the  case 
let  it  settle,  and  draw  off  the  fluid  which  re- 
mains.    Put  the  soap  into  frames  lined  with 
cotton  cloth  which  has  been  well  powdered 
with  a  mixture  of  lime  and  starch,  and  as  soon 
as  the  soap  has  become  firm,  lay  it  out  to 
dry. 

521.  Hard  and  Soft  Soap.     Soaps  are 


thus  of  two  kinds,  hard  and  soft,  this  condi- 
tion being  influenced  both  by  the  fat  and 
alkali  employed.  The  firmer  and  harder  the 
fat,  the  solider  will  be  the  resulting  soap. 
With  the  same  alkali,  therefore,  tallow  will 
make  a  harder  soap  than  palm  or  olive  oil, 
and  stearic  acid  than  oleic  acid.  But  the 
consistence  of  soaps  depends  far  more  upon 
the  alkali  employed.  Potash  is  very  deliques- 
cent, that  is,  has  a  strong  attraction  for  water, 
so  that  when  exposed  it  will  absorb  it  from 
the  air  and  run  down  into  a  fluid  or  semi-fluid 
state.  The  potash  retains  this  water  in  the 
condition  of  soap,  so  that  potash  soaps  are 
always  liquid  and  soft.  The  hard  soaps, 
therefore,  all  contain  soda,  those  with  tallow 
or  stearic  acid  being  the  hardest.  Potash 
soaps  will  not  dry,  but  retain  their  soft,  jelly- 
like  condition,  while  some  kinds  of  soda  soap 
become  so  hard  by  drying  that  at  last  they 
can  be  pulverized.  The  admixture  of  a  very 
small  quantity  of  sulphate  of  soda  hardens 
soap  and  also  checks  waste  from  too  rapid 
solubility  in  hot  water.  "When  soda  and 
potash  alkalies  are  used  in  combination,  a  pro- 
portion of  from  10  to  20  per  cent,  of  the  latter 
is  employed,  according  to  the  degree  of  hard- 
ness the  soap  is  desired  to  possess. 

522.  Common   Yellow    Soap.      Com- 
mon yellow  hard  soap  consists  of  soda,  with 
oil  or  fat  and  resin.     Eesin  is  a  feeble  acid, 
capable  of  combining  with   alkali,  but  neu- 
tralizing it  less  completely  than  oil,  so  that 
the  compound  or  soap  formed  is  too  power- 
fully alkaline.     But  when  resin  is  worked 
with  an  equal  or  larger  proportion  of  oil,  it 
makes  an  excellent  soap  for  many  purposes. 

523.  Beef  Tallow.     This  fat,  on  account 
of  its  abundant  supply,  is  the  most  used  by 
soap  and  candle  makers.     It  is  not  as  white 
as  many  other  animal  fats,  and  the  best  quali- 
ty, the  North  American,  contains  about  70  per 
cent,  of  stearine.     It  does  not  melt  below  111° 
Fahr.,  but  may  afterwards  be  cooled  down  to 
102°  without  solidifying,  and  when  cold,  is 
firm,  and  even  brittle. 

524.  Mutton  Suet.     This  is  generally 
firm,  white,  and  very  rich  in  steainne ;   this 
latter  quality  gives  it  a  tendency  to  produce  a 
soap  of  too  hard  and    brittle  a  nature  for 
general  use,  which  is  obviated  by  mixing  about 
one-fifth   or  one-sixth  part  of  lard,  or  some 
other  more  oleaginous  fat ;   thus  modified  it 
is  specially  adapted  for  stock  for  toilet  soaps. 

525.  Lard.     The    best  quality  of  lard 
melts  at  81°  Fahr.,  and  contains  about  60 
per  cent,  of  oily  fat,  known  as  lard  oil,  and 
about  30  per  cent,  solid  stearine.     It  makes  a 
pure,  white  soap,  and  is  frequently  combined 
with  tallow  or  other  saponaceous  fat. 

526.  Bone    Fat,    obtained    by    boiling 
fresh  bones,  split  open  lengthways,  is  very 
well  adapted  for  making  soaps,  but  generally 
undergoes  a  process  of  purification  before  be- 
ing thus  employed.     (See  No.  534.) 

527.  Cocoanut  Oil  possesses  two  promi- 
nent qualities  which  specially  recommend  it 
as  an  ingredient  in  soap-making.     It  imparts 
a  great  degree  of  firmness  to  the  soap,  prob- 
ably owing  to  the  solid  form  of  the  fatty  acids 
found  in  it.    It  will  also  unite  permanently 
with   soda  lyes  in  any  proportion ;    and,  in 
combination  with  other  fat  substances,   im- 
parts whiteness  and  emollient  properties  to 


THE    ART    OF    SOAP-MAKING. 


67 


them ;  it  also  froths  as  well  in  cold  as  in  hot 
water,  which  is  not  the  case  with  tallow 
soaps  worked  with  soda. 

528.  Palm  Oil.     This  substance  is  used 
in    the  manufacture  of  soap.     Its  genuine 
quality  is  easily  tested  by  its  solubility  in 
acetic  ether,  the  imitations  sometimes  sold 
under  the    same  name    being   insoluble   in 
it.    It  is  used  in  its  natural  state,  but  its  dis- 
tinctive qualities  and  white  color  are  greatly 
increased  by  bleaching.     (See  No.  537.) 

529.  To  Clarify^Fat  Used  in  Making 
Fine  or  Toilet  Soaps.     Heat  the  fat  in  a 
clean  iron  or  copper  kettle,  applying  just  heat 
enough  to  melt  it  thoroughly ;   then  filter  it 
through  fine  linen  or  muslin. 

530.  To  Deodorize  Fat  for  Making 
Perfumed  Soap.     Boil  for  10  minutes  100 
pounds  of  the  fat  with  about  35  pounds  water 
containing  G  ounces  common  salt  and  3  ounces 
powdered  alum ;  strain  the  water  off,  and  let 
the  fat  rest  for  some  hours  before  using. 

531.  To   Prevent  Fatty  Substances 
from  Turning  Rancid.     Boil  for  about  10 
minutes  with  the  salt  and  alum  solution,  as 
in  last  receipt ;  strain  the  water  off,  and  then 
gently  simmer  the  clarified  fat  with  4  ounces 
benzoin  and  1  gallon  rose  water;    skim  off 
and  let  it  cool.     Fat  thus  treated  will  keep 
for  years. 

532.  To  Grain  or  Granulate  Tallow. 
Melt  the  tallow  and  stir  it  with  twice  its 
quantity  of  water  at  a  blood  heat  until  it  is 
cold ;  strain  the  fat  from  the  Avater,  and  dry 
by  exposing  it  to  a  current  of  dry  air.     Tallow 
in  this  granulated  form  combines  more  readily 
with  lye  for  soap-making  purposes.     (See  No. 
535.) 

533.  To  Purify  Tallow  and    Other 
Fats.     Tallow  and  other  fats  are  commonly 
purified  by  molting  them  along  with  water, 
passing  the  mixed  fluids  through  a  sieve,  and 
letting  the  whole  co«l  slowly,  when  a  cake  of 
cleansed  fat  is  obtained.     Another  plan  is  to 
keep  the  tallow  melted  for  some  time,  along 
with  about  2  per  cent,  of  oil  of  vitriol  largely 
diluted  with  water,  employing  constant  agita- 
tion, and  allowing  the  whole  to  cool  slowly ; 
then  to  re-melt  the  cake  with  a  large  quantity 
of  hot  water,  and  to  wash  it  well.     Another 
method  is  to  blow  steam  for  some  time  through 
the  melted  fat.     By  either  this  or  the  prece- 
ding process  a  white  hard  tallow  may  be  ob- 
tained.    Some   persons  add  a  little  nitre  to 
the  melted  fat,  and  afterwards  a  little  dilute- 
nitric  or  sulphuric  acid,  or  a  solution  of  bisul- 
phate   of  potash.     Others  boil  the  fat  along 
with  water  and  a  little  dilute  nitric  or  chro- 
mic acid,  and  afterwards  wash  it  well  with 
water. 

534.  To  Purify  Bone  Fat.    Melt  the 
fat  with  a  small  quantity  of  saltpetre  (nitrate 
of  potassa);    then    add    sufficient  sulphuric 
acid  to  decompose  the  saltpetre.      The  mass, 
after  the  scum  is  removed,  becomes  a  light  yel- 
low color,  and  is  completely  deprived  of  all 
offensive  smell  and  animal  impurities. 

535.  To  Keep  Tallow  from  Turning 
Rancid.     Cut  50  pounds  tallow  into  slices, 
and  boil  it  in  about  2$  gallons  water  containing 
2  ounces  alum  and  4  ounces  salt ;  strain  the 
fat  from  the  liquid,  and  wash  it  in  clean  wa- 
ter; put  into  a  clean  barrel  twice  as  much 
water  at  a  blood  heat  as  there  is  grease,  and 


dissolve  in  the  water  about  1  part  of  clean 
soap  to  10  parts  of  the  grease;  next  warm  the 
grease  to  a  blood  heat  and  pour  it  into  the  bar- 
rel of  water,  stirring  it  together  until  cold ; 
let  it  rest  until  the  fat  has  risen  to  the  sur- 
face, when  the  water  must  be  drawn  away 
through  a  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  barrel, 
hitherto  tightly  corked.  The  fat  in  a  granu- 
lated state  must  be  thoroughly  dried  by  ex- 
posure to  a  current  of  dry  air;  and,  when  per- 
fectly dry,  packed  in  barrels  or  other  vessels. 
The  graining  of  the  fat  at  the  same  time 
greatly  facilitates  its  combination  with  lye  for 
the  purposes  of  soap-making. 

536.  To  Preserve  Grease.    Boil  all  the 
scraps,  rinds,  and  bones,  in  a  weak  lye,  and 
the  purer  grease  in  clear  water.    Let  the  mix- 
ture cool,  take  off  the  cake  of  grease,   and 
strain  it.     It  is  well  to  do  this  occasionally, 
as  you  save  it ;  for  when  kept  a  long  time  im- 
pure grease  becomes  offensive.    You  must  be 
careful  to  dry  off  all  the  water  before  laying 
it  away  in  the  grease  tub,  if  you  wish  it  to 
keep  sweet.    The  best  plan  to  collect  dripping 
is  to  put  it  while  warm  into  water  nearly 
cold.    Any  impurities   it  may  contain  will 
sink  to  the  bottom. 

537.  To  Bleach  Palm  Oil.     Dissolve  i 
pound  powdered  red  chromate  of  potassa  in 
about  a  quart  hot  water.     100  pounds  palm 
oil  are  heated  in  a  wooden  tank,  by  steam,  to 
a  temperature  of  120°  Fahr.    The  steam  is 
then  turned  off  and  a  portion  of  the  chrome 
solution  is  stirred  in,  followed  by  a  propor- 
tional quantity  of  1  pound  strong  muriatic  acid. 
After  the  whole  of  the  solution  and  of  the 
acid   has  been  thoroughly  mixed  with  the 
palm  oil,  stir  in  J  pound  sulphuric  acid.    The 
oil  becomes  black,  then  dark  green,  and  finally 
light  green,  with  a  thick  froth  on  the  surface. 
If;  when  the  mixture  has  settled,  the  oil  is  not 
sufficiently  bleached,  the  operation  has  to  be 
repeated,  using    less  proportion    of  chrome 
and  acids.    "When  the  bleaching  is  complete, 
the  oil  is  allowed  to  stand  for  an  hour  to  clear; 
it  is  then  run  into  a  wooden  tank  with  some 
water,  and  heated  again,  to  wash  out  any  salts 
that  may  remain  in  it,  and  after  a  time  drawn 
off  ready  for  use.     Palm  oil  is  usually  com- 
bined with  from  3  to  5  times  its  weight  of  tal- 
low to  make  soap,  and  is  serviceable  in  resin 
soap  to  brighten  its  color  and  disguise  the 
resin. 

538.  Filled  Soap.     Hard  soaps  are  usu- 
ally made  according  to  the  process  before  de- 
scribed (see  No.  520),  the  excess  of  water  being 
separated  from  the  paste  by  the  use  of  salt:  this 
class  of  soap  is  termed  grained  soap.  But  there 
are  some  kinds — cocoanut  oil  and  soda  soap, 
for  instance — that  are  so  hard  in  their  nature 
that  the  operation  of  salting,  or  graining,  is 
needless,  the  water  remaining  incorporated  in 
the  paste;  soaps  of  this  class  are  called  filled 
soaps. 

539.  To  Make  Talk>w  Soap.     The 
French  Method.     Melt  in  a  boner,  by  a 
moderate  heat,  500  pounds  tallow ;  stir  in,  by 
degrees,  35  to  40  gallons  caustic  soda  lye  of 
10°  to  12°  Baume,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for 
several  hours ;  then  add,  gradually,   IB  to  20 
gallons  caustic  soda  lye  of  15°  to  18°  Baume, 
and  mix  until  the  whole  becomes  a  homogene- 
ous mass  of  a  grayish  color ;  keep  the  mix- 
ture boiling  gently  for  some  hours,  adding  to 


68 


THE    ART    OF    SOAP-MAKING. 


it  every  hour  3  to  4  gallons  caustic  soda  lye  of 
20°  Baume.  This  will  occupy  10  or  12  hours. 
The  salting  process  then  follows,  and  is  con- 
ducted as  described  in  No.  520.  After  the 
separation  oj  graining  is  finished  the  paste  is 
allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  hours,  and  the  lye 
is  drawn  off  through  a  faucet  inserted  for  the 
purpose  in  the  side  of  the  boiler,  near  the  bot- 
tom. The  mass  is  again  boiled  for  some 
hours,  adding  every  hour  2|  gallons  soda  lye 
of  25°  Baum6,  until  the  hard  scales  rise  to 
the  surface.  (See  No.  520.)  The  fire  should 
then  be  extinguished,  and  after  an  hour  the 
under-lye  is  to  be  drawn  off.  Then  boil  again 
for  H  to  2  hours  with  about  25  gallons  soda 
lye  of  4°  Baume,  stirring  from  tune  to  time. 
The  fire  should  then  be  removed,  and  the  pan 
covered  up ;  the  soap  will  rise  to  the  top  of 
the  lye,  and  may  be  poured  into  the  frames, 
care  being  taken  that  no  lye  gets  mixed  with 
the  soap.  This  should  yield  about  850  pounds 
of  soap. 

540.  Tallow  Resin   Soap.    About  15 
per  cent,  of  resin  can  be  mixed  with  tallow 
without  injuring  the  color  and  firmness  of  the 
Boap.    A  larger  proportion  deteriorates  the 
quality  and  produces  an  inferior  soap.     Some 
soap-makers  melt  the  resin  and  tallow  togeth- 
er before  saponifying;    but  it  is  better  to 
make  a  soap  of  each  in  separate  boilers,  and 
then  mix  and  boil  them  together  thoroughly 
for  half  an  hour,  and  strain  through  a  sieve 
before  filling  the  frames. 

541.  To  Make  Resin  Soap.    Boil  12 
gallons  caustic  soda  lye  of  30°  Baum6  in  a 
kettle,  and  add  100  pounds  well  pulverized 
resin,  10  or  15  pounds  at  a  time,  stirring  con- 
stantly and  thoroughly,  the  heat  being  kept 
up  to  or  nearly  at  boiling  point.    Saponifica- 
tion  will  be  effected  in  about  2  hours.    The 
lightest  resin  is  the  best  for  soap. 

542.  Cocoanut    Oil    Soap.      Put   100 
pounds  cocoanut  oil  and  100  pounds  caustic 
eoda  lye  of  27°  Baum6  into  a  soap  kettle ; 
boil  and  mix  thoroughly  for  1  or  2  hours,  until 
the  paste  gradually  thickens ;  then  diminish 
the  heat,  but  continue  stirring  till  the  cooling 
paste  assumes  a  white,  half-solid  mass ;  then 
transfer  quickly  to  the  frames.    A  mixture  of 
equal  parts  of  cocoanut  oil  and  tallow  will 
make  a  very  fine  filled  soap.     (See  No.  538.) 
Cocoanut  oil  mixed  with  almost  any  fats, 
if  they  are  not  in  too    large    proportions, 
will  produce  filled  soaps. 

543.  Palm  Oil  Soap.     Palm  oil  is  sel- 
dom used  alone  as  a  saponaceous  fat,  but  is 
employed  in  conjunction  with  other  fats,  and 
with  resin ;   this  latter  being  usually  saponi- 
fied separately  and  mixed  afterwards.     (See 
No.  540.)     The  directions  for  making  tallow 
soap  apply  equally  well  to  palm  oil.    The  fol- 
lowing are  among  the  best  mixtures  and  pro- 
portions of  palm  oil  for  soaps : 

30  pounds  palm  oil,  20  pounds  tallow,  and 
2  pounds  resin. 

30  pounds  palm  oil,  50  pounds  tallow,  and 
20  pounds  resin. 

90  pounds  palm  oil  and  10  pounds  cocoanut 
oil. 

15  pounds    palm    oil,   55    pounds  lard, 
pounds  cocoanut  oil,  and  5  pounds  clarified 
resin. 

544.  To   Make    Soap  from.  Grained 
Tallow.     Mix  6  pounds  caustic  soda  and  2 


pounds  caustic  potash  with  17  to  20  gallons 
hot  water ;  put  a  portion  of  this  lye  into  a 
clean  barrel;  stir  in  by  degrees  25  pounds 
grained  tallow ;  add  the  rest  of  the  lye  and 
stir  it  briskly  for  at  least  an  hour ;  then  let  it 
rest,  and  before  it  is  cold  pour  it  into  a  frame 
or  box,  and  finish  according  to  No.  520. 

545.  Dawson's    Patent    Composite 
Soap.     Strong  potash  lye,  75  pounds;  tal- 
tow,   75  pounds;    cocoanut  oil,   25  pounds. 
Boil  until  the  compound  is  saponified  in  the 
usual  manner. 

To  make  30  pounds  of  the  new  composi- 
tion, take  2  gallons  boiling  soft  water  in  a  ket- 
tle, add  -J  pound  sal  soda,  2  ounces  borax,  2 
table-spoonfuls  spirits  of  turpentine,  and  1 
tea-spoonful  linseed  oil.  Stir  this  mixture  un- 
til the  borax  and  soda  are  dissolved ;  then  add 
15  pounds  of  the  above  soap  made  from  lye, 
tallow,  and  cocoanut  oil;  and  continue  the 
boiling  with  stirring  for  15  minutes,  until  the 
whole  is  incorporated  and  dissolved.  Now 
add  2  ounces  spirits  of  hartshorn,  and  stir. 
It  may  be  scented  with  any  essential  oil,  or 
odor,  and  colored,  if  desired ;  then  run  off 
and  molded  into  cakes  fit  for  toilet  use.  It  is 
a  good  soap  for  chapped  hands,  and  is  free 
from  any  disagreeable  odor.  • 

546.  Chemical    Soap.     Powdered    ful- 
ler's earth,  1  ounce ;  just  moisten  with  spirits 
of  turpentine ;  add   salt  of  tartar,   1   ounce ; 
best  potash,  1  ounce ;  work  the  whole  into  a 
paste  with  a  little  scap.    It  is  excellent  for 
removing  grease  spots. 

547.  To  Make  Hard  White  Tallow 
Soap.     Dissolve  2  pounds  sal  soda  in  1  gal- 
lon boiling  soft  water ;  mix  into  it  2  pounds 
fresh  slacked  lime,  stirring  occasionally  for  a 
few  hours ;  then  let  it  settle,   pour  off'  the 
clear  liquid,  and  boil  2  pounds  tallow  in  it  un- 
til all  the  tallow  is  dissolved.     Cool  it  in  aflat 
box,  and  cut  it  into  bars  or  cakes.     It  can  be 
scented  by  stirring  in  the  desired  perfume 
when  cool. 

548.  To  Make  Home-made  Caustic 
Soda.     Dissolve  6  pounds  common  washing 
soda  in  4  gallons  warm  water ;  slack  6  pounds 
clean  fresh  quicklime  in  a  tub,  using  only  as 
much  water  as  is  needed  to  crumble  it  perfect- 
ly ;  add  the  slacked  lime  to  the  solution  of 
soda ;  stir  the  two  together,  adding  4  gallons 
boiling  water;  stir  thoroughly  and  let  it  settle; 
then  pour  off  the  clear  lye  for  use. 

549.  To  Make  Domestic  Soap.    Put 
the  caustic  soda  lye,  prepared  in  the  manner 
and  quantity  given  in  the  last  receipt,  into  a 
clean  iron  kettle,  and  add,  during  continual 
stirring,  12  pounds  clarified  grease,  dusting  in, 
a  little  at  a  time,  4  ounces  finely  powdered 
borax;  let  it  boil  gently  for  10  or  15  minutes, 
until  it  thickens  and  becomes  ropy ;  then  have 
in  readiness  a  tight  box,  lined  with  a  piece  of 
muslin  large  enough  to  hang  well  over  the 
sides,  to   allow  of  the  contents  being  after- 
ward conveniently  lifted  out ;  pour  the  mix- 
ture from  the  kettle  into  the  box,  and  let  it 
stand  for  a  few  days  to  harden ;  when  suffi- 
ciently linn,  turn  it  out  onto  a  table,  'and  cut 
it  into  bars  with  a  thin  wire.   Soap  thus  made, 
and  left  to  harden  in  a  dry  room,  will  bo  fit 
for  use  in  a  month. 

550.  To  Make  Home-made  Caustic 
Lye  from  Ashes.     Provide  a  box  whose 
sides  terminate  in  a  point,  and  having  an  ori- 


TOILS?    SOAPS. 


69 


fice  at  the  lower  end  (see  illustration);  thii 
should  be  mounted  high  enough  to  allow 
of  a  vessel  being  placed  underneath  itj  to  re- 
ceive the  liquid  that  runs  out  of  the  bottom. 
The  box  is  then  well  lined  with  straw  (see 
No.  607),  upon  which  fresh  wood  ashes  are 
placed,  adding  to  the  ashes  about  one  twen- 


tieth the  quantity  of  fresh  slacked  lime  (see 
No.  519);  then  pour  hot  water  upon  it,  and 
the  lye  will  filter  through  into  the  vessel  be- 
low. For  the  purposes  of  soap-making,  this 
lye  must  be  concentrated  by  boiling  until  a 
sound  potato  will  not  sink  below  the  surface. 

551.  To   Make   Home-made    Soap. 
Fill  an  iron  kettle  two-thirds  full  of  the  con- 
centrated lye  prepared  according  to  the  last 
receipt ;  add  to  it  melted  fat,  a  ladleful  at  a 
time,   stirring  constantly  until  the  mass  be- 
comes creamy ;  next  add  small  quantities  of 
salt  at  a  time,  stirring  without  intermission 
until  a  perfect  ring  can  be  made  on  the  surface 
with  a  stick  ;  then  let  the  fire  go  out  and  the 
soap  will  rise  to  the  surface  and  harden  as  it 
cools ;  the  lye  can  be  drawn  from  under  it  by 
tilting  the  kettle,  or  the  soap  may  be  lifted  off 
and  laid  out  to  dry  until  hard  enough  to  cut  it 
into  bars.     (See  No.  549.) 

552.  Ox-gall  Soap.     Gall  soap,  for  the 
washing  of  fine  silken  cloths  and  ribbons,  is 
prepared  in  the  following   manner:       In  a 
vessel  of  copper  1  pound  cocoanut  oil  is  heated 
to  60°  Fahr.,  and  •$•  pound   caustic    soda  is 
added,   with  constant  stirring.     In  another 
vessel  \  pound  white  Venetian  turpentine  is 
heated,  and  when  quite  hot,  stirred  into  the 
copper  kettle.     This  kettle  is  then  covered 
and  left  for  4  hours,  being  gently  heated,  after 
which  the  fire  is  increased  until  the  contents 
are  perfectly  clear ;    then  1  pound  ox-gall  is 
added.     After  this,    sufficient    perfectly  dry 
Castile   soap  is   stirred  into  1^he   mixture  to 
cause  the  whole  to  yield  but  little  under  the 
pressure   of  the  finger ;    for  which  purpose, 
from  1  to  2  pounds  of  soap  are  required  for 
the  above  quantity.    After  cooling,  the  soap  is 
cut  into  pieces.    It  is  excellent,  and  will  not 
injure  the  finest  colors. 


Toilet  SpapS.  To  this  class  be- 
long the  finer  kinds  of  scented  soaps, 
which  have  emollient  properties.  They  are 
rarely  made  direct  by  the  perfumer,  the  body 
or  basis  being  a  well-selected  white  soap,  subse- 
quently cleaned  and  purified.  For  the  choic- 
est grades,  the  body  should  be  made  of  a  mix- 
ture of  olive  and  sweet-almond  oil,  as  the  fat 
stock.  Lard  and  beef  tallow  make  the  next 
best  stock ;  and  for  palm  soap  a  small  quanti- 


ty of  bleached  palm  oil  is  to  be  added  to  them. 
Cocoa  oil  and  pale  yellow  resin  saponaceous 
matters  also  enter  into  the  composition  of  cer- 
tain toilet  soaps.  These  body  soaps  may  be 
obtained  as  wanted  from  any  well-conducted 
soap  factory.  To  be  adapted  to  the  purposes 
of  perfumery  they  must  be  perfectly  neutral, 
firm,  free  from  unpleasant  odor  and  all  tenden- 
cy to  crust  in  cold,  or  sweat  in  damp  weather. 
They  should,  moreover,  give  a  rich  lather 
without  wasting  too  rapidly  in  the  water. 
Soaps,  generally,  in  their  original  condition, 
are  usually  deficient  in  many  of  those  points ; 
and  must,  for  the  purposes  of  perfumery,  un- 
dergo a  refining  process,  which  is  as  follows : 

554.  To  Refine  Soap  for  Making 
Toilet  Soap.  The  soap,  as  purchased  in 
bars  or  blocks,  being  piled  upon  the  shelf  of 
the  rasping  machine,  is  next  placed  in  the 
hopper,  and  as  the  wheel  revolves,  knives 
come  against  the  soap  and  cut  it  into  meal, 
which  falls  into  the  reception  box  beneath. 
It  is  now  in  a  state  fit  to  be  melted  readily, 
for  which  purpose  it  is  transferred  to  a  steam 
bath,  and  mixed  with  rose  and  orange-flower 
waters,  each  half  a  gallon,  to  every  hundred 
pounds  of  soap.  The  steam  being  let  on,  and 
the  containing  kettle  covered,  its  contents  be- 
come gradually  fluid,  and  in  this  state  must 
be  stirred  with  a  crutch — which  is  a  long  stick 
having  the  form  of  an  inverted  T — until  the 
paste  becomes  uniformly  consistent  and 
smooth  throughout.  It  is  then  allowed  to 
cool,  again  melted,  but  without  fragrant  wa- 
ter, and  crutched  as  before.  When  the  con- 
tents of  the  vessel  comprise  several  kinds  of 
soap,  great  care  must  be  observed  not  to  put 
in  all  at  once,  but  to  add  and  melt  each  suc- 
cessively, and  to  crutch  constantly,  so  as  to 
effect  an  intimate  mixture.  When  the  paste 
begins  to  cool,  coloring  matter  as  may  be  de- 
sired is  then  added,  and  subsequently  the  per- 
fume, which  is  reserved  to  the  last,  to  avoid 
any  unnecessary  loss  by  evaporation  from  the 
hot  paste. 

55'5.  To  Perfume,  Cut  and  Stamp 
Toilet  Soap.  When  extracts  or  bouquets 
are  used,  they  must  be  added  to  the  com- 
pound in  meal,  and  incorporated  with  the 
mass  by  kneading  it  with  the  hands;  for  the  ap- 
plication of  heat  would  impair  the  delicacy  of 
the  odor,  as  well  as  occasion  loss  by  its  evap- 
oration. In  large  establishments  this  is  done 
by  passing  the  meal  repeatedly  between  mar- 
ble rollers. 

The  soap  is  now  ready  to  be  put  into  the 
;ooling  frames,  which  is  a  rectangular  well, 
made  of  a  series  of  wooden  frames,  resting 
successively  one  upon  the  other.  In  a  day  or 
two  it  is  sufficiently  hard  to  be  cut  into  tab- 
lets of  the  size  of  the  sections  of  each  frame ; 
they  are  set  up  edgewise,  and  left  for  several 
days  to  dry,  and  are  then  barred  by  means  of 
a  wire.  The  sections  or  lifts  of  the  frames 
regulate  the  width  of  the  bars,  and  the  gauges 
adjust  their  breadth — these  latter  being  made 
so  as  to  cut  bars  or  squares  of  four,  six,  eight 
or  any  required  number  to  the  pound  of  soap. 
The  bars  are  further  subdivided  into  tablets, 
and  subjected  to  pressure  for  the  purpose  of 
imparting  solidity,  and  ornamenting  the  exte- 
rior with  some  appropriate  device,  or  impress- 
ing upon  it  the  maker's  name ;  the  shape  of 
the  tablet  being  determined  by  the  form  of  the 


70 


TOILET    SOAPS. 


mould  or  die-box  in  which  it  is  pressed.  The 
press  is  of  ordinary  construction,  with  spiral 
springs  to  throw  out  the  soap  tablet  from  the 
die-box  as  soon  as  it  is  pressed.  In  some  fac- 
tories the  pressure  is  more  effectually  accom- 
plished by  means  of  a  steam  hammer,  which  is 
made  to  give  three  blows,  directly  vertical,  to 
each  tablet  of  soap.  Savonettes  or  soap-balls 
are  shaped  by  rotating  blocks  of  soap  upon  a 
soap  scoop  made  of  brass,  with  sharp  edges. 

556.  To  Marble  Soap.     The  mottled  or 
marble  appearance  is  usually  given  to  soap, 
on  the  large  scale,  by  watering  the  nearly  fin- 
ished soap  with  a  strong  lye  of  crude  soda 
(preferably  one  rich  in  sulphurets),  by  means  of 
a  watering-pot  furnished  with  a  rose-spout.  In 
Castile  soap  it  is  given  with  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  iron,  used  in  the  same  way.     On  the 
small  scale,  with  toilet  soaps,  the  mottle  is 
either  given  in  the  way  noticed  under  "Mottled 
Soap  Balls  "  (see  No.  576),or,  in  alike  manner, 
by  combining  some  of  the  soap,  colored  at 
the  time  of  scenting  it,  with  the  remaining 
uncolored  portion. 

557.  Almond  Soap.     This    is    a   very 
white  soap,  which,  when  genuine,  is  made  by 
the  cold  process  (see  Nos.  582  and  583),  and 
from  pure  oil  of  sweet  almonds.    The  kind, 
however,  generally  met  with,  is  made  as  fol- 
lows :    White  curd  soap,  100  pounds ;  cocoa- 
nut  oil,  15  pounds ;  purified  as  before  directed 
(see  No.  554),  and  perfumed  with  a  mixture  of 
attar  of  bitter  almonds,  1£  pounds ;  and  attars 
of  cloves  and  caraway,  each  8  ounces. 

558.  White  Windsor  Soap.     The  gen- 
uine old  white  "Windsor  is  made  from  a  body 
of  which  a  mixture  of  lard  and  olive  oil  is  the 
fat  stock ;  and  attars  of  caraway,  lavender, 
and  rosemary,  constitute  the  perfume. 

The  modern  "Windsor  soap  is  made  from 
fine  white  curd  soap,  115  pounds ;  cocoanut- 
oil  soap,  20  pounds ;  perfumed  with  a  mixture 
of  attar  of  caraway,  1£  pounds;  attars  of 
thyme  and  rosemary,  each  8  ounces ;  and  at- 
tars of  cassia  and  cloves,  each  4  ounces. 

559.  Brown   Windsor    Soap.       Curd 
soap,  100  pounds ;  cocoanut  oil  soap,  and  pale 
yellow  resin  soap,  each  25  pounds ;  color  with 
caramel  (see  No.  694),  8  ounces;  and  perfume 
with  a  mixture  of  attars  of  caraway,  cloves, 
thyme,  cassia,  petit-grain,  and  lavender,  each 
8  ounces.     Morfit's  oleic  soap,  of  first  grade, 
is  peculiarly  adapted  as  a  body  for  brown 
"Windsor  soap,  as  it  gives  a  rich  lather,  and  is 
very   smooth  and  highly   emollient.     More- 
over,  it  contains  its  normal  moisture  for  a 
great  length  of  time. 

560.  Honey  Soap.     "White  curd  soap,  40 
pounds;    melted    and  crutched  with    white 
honey,   10  pounds;    storax,   2  pounds;   and 
powdered  benzoin,  1  pound. 

561.  Imitation  Honey  Soap.     An  im- 
itation honey  soap  is  made  by  melting  togeth- 
er pale  j^ellow  soap,  100  pounds ;  soft  soap,  14 
pounds ;  and  perfuming  with  attar  of  citron- 
ella,  1£  pounds. 

562.  Frangipani    Soap.      Curd   soap, 
colored  brown  with  caramel,  7  pounds ;  per- 
fumed with  a  mixture  of  attars  of  neroli  and 
vitivert,   each    4    ounces ;    attar  of   rose,    2 
drachms;    attar  of  santal,   1£  ounces;    and 
civet,  2  drachms.    The  latter  is  to  be  pre- 
viously triturated  with  the  attars. 

563.  Rose  Soap.     This  is  made  from  a 


mixture  of  olive  oil  soap,  60  pounds;  and 
curd  soap,  40  pounds ;  colored  with  1  pound 
of  finely  bolted  vermilion.  The  perfume  con- 
sisting of  attar  of  rose,  6  ounces ;  attars  of 
santal  and  geranium,  each  1  ounce ;  and  tinc- 
ture of  musk,  8  ounces ;  must  be  added  to  the 
cold  soap  in  meal,  and  incorporated  by  knead- 
ing. The  oil  soap  may  be  replaced  by  curd 
soap,  but  the  quality  of  the  rose  soap  will  not 
then  be  so  fine. 

564.  Savon  au  Bouquet.     "White  soap, 
60  pounds ;    perfumed    in  the  cold  with    8 
ounces  of  extract  bouquet;  or  in  warm  paste 
with  a  mixture  of  attar  of  bergamot,  8  ounces ; 
attars  of  cloves  and  sassafras,  each  £  ounce ; 
attar  of  thyme,  1  ounce;    attar  of  neroli,  1 
ounce.     The  soap  body  must  be  previously 
colored  brown  with  1  pound  of  caramel.    The 
soap  scented  with  the  attars  is  inferior  to  that 
perfumed  with  extract   bouquet.      The  per- 
fume, and  with  it  the  title  of  the  soap,  can  be 
varied  according  to  the  caprice  of-  fashion. 

565.  Poncine    Soap.      Curd  soap,  50 
pounds ;  cocoanut  oil  soap,  the  same  quanti- 
ty, melted  to  paste  and  crutched  with  10  or 
20  pounds  of  finely  bolted  pumice-stone  pow- 
der.    The  perfume  is  a  mixture  of  attars  of 
thyme,  cassia,  caraway,  and  lavender,  each  1 
pound. 

566.  Spermaceti  Soap.     The  genuine 
spermaceti  soap  is  superior  to  all  others  in 
emollient  properties ;    but  it  is  rarely  made 
from  pure  stock,  owing  to  the  difficulty  in 
saponifying  it.    As  generally  vended  it  con- 
sists of  white  curd  soap,  14  pounds ;  perfumed 
with   a  mixture   of    attar  of    bergamot,   2£ 
ounces,  and  attar  of  lemon,  8  ounces. 

567.  Palm  Soap.     Curd  soap,  made  of 
a  mixture  of  $  lard,  -J-  bleached  palm  oil,  and 
the  remainder  olive  oil  or  spermaceti,  consti- 
tutes the  body  of   palm   soap.     Its  natural 
odor  is  that  of  the  violet,  which  is  some- 
times stimulated  by  the  addition  of  a  little 
attar  of  portugal,  with  a  less  portion  of  attar 
of  cloves. 

568.  Floating    Soap.      All    the    hard 
soaps  increase  bulk  by  mechanical  batting  of 
the  paste ;  the  loss  of  density  thus  produced 
gives  them  the  property  of  floating  in  water. 
The  batting  is  best  accomplished  by  means  of 
a  churn-twirl,  rotating  on  a  pivot  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  melting  pan,  and  put  in  motion  by 
a  handle. 

Expose  5  pounds  olive-oil  or  almond  soap, 
and  1 J  pints  soft  water  in  a  bright  copper  pan, 
to  a  steam  or  water  heat,  and  assiduously  beat 
and  agitate  the  mixture  until  it  has  more  than 
double  its  volume ;  then  pour  it  into  a  cold 
frame,  cool  it  quickly,  and,  when  hard,  cut  it 
into  bars  or  cakes.  It  may  be  colored  and 
scented  at  will.  Floats  on  water,  and  lathers 
freely,  but  will  not  bear  soaking  or  much  wet, 
as  it  rapidly  softens. 

569.  Transparent  Soap.     This  amber- 
looking   soap    is    made    by   dissolving    hard 
white  soap,  previously  reduced  to  meal  and 
thoroughly  dried,  in  alcohol.     A  steam-bath, 
fitted  with  a  still-head,  makes  a  good   con- 
taining vessel.      The   alcohol   and   soap  are 
taken  in  about  equal  proportions  ;  and,  as  the 
solution  proceeds,  any  spirit  which  may  distill 
over  must  be  allowed  to  condense  in  a  worm, 
and  collected  in  a  receiver.    The  heat  should 
not  exceed  212°.    After  solution,  the  whole 


TOILET    SOAPS. 


71 


must  be  allowed  time  for  settling;  after 
which,  the  clear  fluid  is  t6  be  drawn  off  from 
the  sediment  into  wooden  frames ;  or  globular 
moulds  of  britannia  metal,  if  it  is  desired  to 
cast  it  in  ball  form.  Previous  to  settling  it 
may  be  colored  as  desired — red,  with  tincture 
of  alkanet ;  yellow,  with  tincture  of  turmeric  ; 
orange,  with  a  mixture  of  the  two  tinctures ; 
green,  with  tincture  of  chlorophyle;  blue, 
with  tincture  of  indigo  carmine.  Transparent 
soap  is  rather  translucent  when  first  made, 
and  does  not  clear  until  perfectly  dry.  The 
perfumes  are  the  same  as  for  the  other  soaps. 

570.  Glycerine  Soap.     Any  mild  toilet 
soap  (as  the  basis  of  bouquet,  rose,  or  "Wind- 
sor soap)  with  which  about  ^5-  to  -fa  of  its 
weight  of  Price's  glycerine  has  been  intimate- 
ly incorporated  whilst  in  the  melted  state.   It 
is  generally  tinged  of  a  red  or  rose  color, 
with  a  little  tincture  of  archil  or  of  dragon's 
blood ;   or   orange  yellow,  with   a   little  an- 
natta.     It  is  variously  scented;   but  oil  of 
bergamot,   or    rose-geranium   (ginger-grass), 
supported  with  a  little  oil  of  cassia,  or  cassia 
supported  with  essential  oil  of  almonds,  ap- 
pear to  be  its  favorite  perfumes. 

571.  Musk  Soap.     Best  tallow  soap,  30 
pounds ;  palm  oil  soap,  20  pounds ;  powdered 
cloves,  pale  roses  and  gilliflowers,  of  each  4£ 
ounces ;  essence  of  bergamot  and  essence  of 
musk,  of  each  3£  ounces ;    Spanish  brown,  4 
ounces. 

572.  Orange  Flower  Soap.     Best  tal- 
low soap,    30  pounds  ;    palm    oil    soap,    20 
pounds ;    essence  of  portugal  and  essence  of 
ambergris,  each  7-J  ounces;   yellowish  green 
coloring,  made  of  ochre  and  indigo,  8J  ounces ; 
vermilion,  1J  ounces. 

573.  .Cinnamon  Soap.     This  is  usually 
a  mixture  of  tallow  and  oil  soaps,  like  that  of 
"  savon  au  bouquet,"  colored  with  about  £ 
pound  yellow  ochre,  and  scented  with  1  ounce 
oil  of  cinnamon  (supported  with  a  little  oil  of 
bergamot  and  sassafras),  to  each  7  pounds. 
The  following  is  the  form  of  a  celebrated  maker 
of  this  soap,  and  is  very  fine : 

6  pounds  finest  white  curd  soap ;  "3^  pounds 
finest  palm  oil  soap  ;  1  pound  oh' ve  oil  soap ; 
H  ounce  oil  of  cinnamon ;  £  ounce  oil  of 
bergamot ;  J-  ounce  oil  of  sassafras ;  1  drachm 
English  oil  of  lavender;  and  about  £  pound 
levigated  yellow  ochre. 

Oil  of  cassia  is  commonly  substituted  for 
the  oil  of  cinnamon;  and  always  so  in 
second  and  inferior  qualities. 

574.  Glycerine  Soap  Balls.     To  any 
recently  made  toilet  soap,  sliced,   and  melted 
by  a  gentle  heat,  without  water  (if  possible), 
add  Price's  glycerine,  in  the  proportion  of  1 
ounce  to  the  pound ;    thoroughly  incorporate 
them  by  vigorous  stirring,  which  should  be 
continued  until  the  mass  has  cooled  consider- 
ably, when  it  should  be  at  once  made  into 
balls. 

575.  Sand  Soap  Balls.     These  are  pre- 
pared by  adding  to  the  melted  soap  about  half 
its  weight  of  fine  siliceous  sand.     Sifted  sand 
is  usually   employed.      Some  persons  prefer 
the  shelly  sea- sand  (sifted  from  the  shells  and 
well  washed)  for  the  purpose.     For  the  finer 
qualities,  finely-powdered  pumice-stone  is  now 
usually  employed.     Used   to  prevent  rough- 
ness and  thickening  of  the  skin  in  cold  weath- 
er ;  also  to  clean  the  hands  when  dirty.     The 


best  yellow  soap,  with  or  without  the  addition 
of  £  its  weight  of  white  soft  soap  and  a  little 
sweet  oil,  is  the  best  for  these  balls. 

576.  Mottled  Soap  Balls.   Cut  the  soap 
(recently  prepared,  and  not  too  dry)  into  dice, 
or  small  square  pieces,  roll  them  in  colored  pow- 
der (see  below),  and  then  mould  them  into 
balls  by  powerful  pressure,  observing  to  mix 
the  colors  as  little  as  possible. 

The  colors  usually  employed,  and  which 
should  be  in  very  fine  powder,  are :  Slue — 
indigo,  powder-blue,  or  smalts.  Green — pow- 
der-blue and  bright  yellow-ochre.  Orange — 
yellow  deepened  with  a  little  red.  Bed — 
red  bole,  sesquioxide  of  iron,  or  jeweler's 
rouge.  Yellow — bright  yellow-ochre,  or  Dutch 
pink. 

By  varying  the  shade  of  color,  which  is 
done  by  diluting  it  with  a  little  farina  or  chalk, 
and  by  using  soap-dice  separately  coated  with 
two  or  more  colors,  "  mottled  savonettes  "  of 
any  color,  or  mixture  of  colors,  may  be  pro- 
duced at  will. 

577.  Mercurial  Soap.     Take  of  corro- 
sive  sublimate   (crushed  small),   1  drachm ; 
rectified    spirit    (to    dissolve,    say)    1    fluid 
ounce;    white  Castile    soap  (in  powder),  4 
ounces;  beat  them  to  a  uniform  mass  in  a 
wedgwood-ware  mortar,  adding  a  few  drops 
of  attar  of  roses,  or  of  a  mixture  of  the  oils 
of  cassia  and  bitter  almonds.    Nothing  me- 
tallic must  touch  it.     This  is  the  "  sapo  hy- 
drargyri  bichloridi "  of  medical  writers.     The 
above  has  .been  recommended  in  various  skin 
diseases,  including  itch ;  also  as  "  Savon  An- 
tisyphilitique,"  under  which  name  it  is  often 
sold. 

578.  Sulphur    Soap;     Sulphuretted 
Soap.     Take  £  pound  white  curd  or  Castile 
soap  (recent);  1  ounce  best  flowers  of  sulphur 
(levigated);    1    fluid    ounce    rectified    spirit 
(strongly  colored  with  alkanet) ;  and  sufficient 
attar  of  roses  to   strongly   scent   the  mass. 
Beat  the  whole  together,  to  a  smooth  paste, 
in    a    marble    or    wedgwood    ware    mortar. 
This    is    Sir    H.   Marsh's    formula.     Recom- 
mended in  itch,  and  various  other  skin  dis- 
eases.   It  is  particularly  serviceable  as  a  com- 
mon toilet  soap,   to  persons  troubled  with 
slight  cutaneous    eruptions.      Its  daily  use 
tends  to  render  the  skin  fair  and  smooth. 
The  spirit  and  coloring  may  be  omitted  at 
will ;    and,  as  a  toilet  soap,    only  half  the 
above  quantity  of  sulphur  is  amply  sufficient. 

579.  Caution   in   using    Medicated 
Soaps.      Before  using  mercurial  or  sulphur 
soap,  finger-rings,  ear-rings,  and  bracelets  of 
gold,   &c.,   should  be  removed,  and  not  re- 
placed until  some  short  time  after  the  hands 
have  become  quite  dry ;    as  otherwise  they 
will  be  tarnished,  and  even  blackened  and 
corroded.     The  same  applies  to  all  other  cos- 
metics containing  the  same  mineral  ingre- 
dients. 

580.  Whale-oil  Soap  to  Destroy  In- 
sects.    Render  common  lye  caustic,  by  boil- 
ing it  at  full  strength  on  quicklime;  then 
take  the  lye  and  boil  it  with  as  much  whale- 
oil  foot  as  it  will  saponify  (change  to  soap), 
pour  off  into  moulds,  and,  when  cold,  it  is 
tolerably   hard.      "Whale-oil  foot  is  the  sedi- 
ment produced  in  refining  whale  oil. 

581.  Carbolic  Acid  Soap.  Take  freshly 
prepared  cocoanut-oil  soap,  150  parts,  and  fuse; 


SOAP    BY    THE    COLD    PROCESS. 


then  add  a  solution  of  alcohol,  10  parts ;  car- 
bolic acid,  6  parts ;  caustic  potassa,  2  parts ; 
oil  of  lemon,  1  part ;  and  mix  with  stirring. 
To  be  poured  into  moulds. 


Soap  by  the  Cold  Process. 
Although  the  commoner  kinds  of  soap 
are  usually  made  by  boiling,  they  can  be 
made  by  the  cold  process  if  desired ;  and  the 
fatty  substances  employed  are  substantially 
the  same  in  both  methods.  The  cold  or  little- 
pan  process  is,  however,  almost  exclusively 
adopted  in  the  manufacture  of  fancy  or  toilet 
soaps,  and  for  these  purposes  the  fat  requires 
to  be  purified  and  deodorized,  especially  where 
any  delicate  scent  is  to  be  used  in  perfuming 
it.  (See  Nos.  533  and  530.)  The  lye  em- 
ployed for  saponification  without  boiling  must 
be  much  stronger  than  that  used  in  the  boil- 
ing process,  and  should  be  entirely  clear  and 
colorless;  a  strength  of  about  36°  Baum6  is 
nsually  necessary. 

583.  To  Make  Soap  by  the  Cold  Pro- 
cess.    Incorporate    by    degrees    50    pounds 
concentrated  caustic  lye  of  36°  Baum6,  into 
100  pounds  fat  at  a  temperature  not  higher 
than  104°  Fahr.  (sec  No.  523);  continue  to  stir 
thoroughly  with  a  broad  wooden  paddle,  until 
a  complete  ring  can  be  drawn  on  its  surface 
with  the  paddle.     In  making  scented  soap, 
the  perfuming  ingredients  must  now  be  stirred 
in.     The  paste  is  then  run  into  frames  lined 
with  linen,  flaps  of  which  should  be  left  above 
the  edges  of  each  frame,  wide  enough  to  ad- 
mit of  their  being  laid  over  the  surface  of  the 
paste,  with  which  the  frame  must  be  entirely 
filled.    The  paste  being  thus  completely  con- 
fined by  the  linen,  the  frames  are  closed  with 
a  wooden  cover  and  left  for  12  hours.    Dur- 
ing this  interval  the  temperature  of  the  paste 
in  the  frames  rises  spontaneously  to  a  much 
higher  degree,  producing  complete  saponifica- 
tion.   The  soap  is  afterwards  taken  out  of  the 
frames,  cut,  and  dried.    The  hardness  of  the 
soap  will  depend  on  the  description  of  fats 
and  lyes  used.     (See  No.  521.) 

584.  Method    of    Testing    Caustic 
Alkali.     The  strength  and  practical  value  of 
commercial  caustic  soda  or  potash  can  only 
be  ascertained   by  analysis.      The  methods 
given  below  are  simple,  and  will  determine, 
with  sufficient  accuracy,  the  percentage  of 
water,  caustic  alkali,  and  carbonated  alkali 
contained  in  a  given  sample ;  and  hence  the 
quantity  of  impurity,  if  any. 

585.  To  Find  the  Percentage  of  Wa- 
ter in  a  Caustic  Soda  or  Potash.     Weigh 
carefully  100  grains  of  the  alkali  into  a  cap- 
sule (a  flat  evaporating  dish  of  suitable  size, 
a  watch  glass  is  a  small  capsule),  and  dry 
them  by  heating  over  a  flame ;    a  cold  glass 
held  over  the  contents  of  the  capsule  will 
show    the    slightest    evaporation    of  water. 
When  no  more  moisture  can  be  detected,  al- 
low them  to  cool ;   then  weigh  the  residue  in 
the  capsule,  and  the  difference  of  the  weights 
before  and  after  drying  will  be  the  number  of 
grains  of  water  contained  in  100  grains  of  the 
alkali ;  that  is,  the  percentage  of  water. 

586.  To  Estimate  the  Percentage  of 
Caustic   Alkali    in  a  Caustic   Soda  or 
Potash.     Powder  100  grains  of  the  alkali  to 


be  tested ;  put  it  into  a  flask  containing  an 
ounce  of  95°  alcohol,  and  shake  thoroughly  ; 
the  alcohol  dissolves  the  caustic  alkali  per- 
fectly, but  will  not  take  up  any  other  in- 
gredients. After  standing  for  a  few  hours  to 
settle,  decant  the  clear  liquid,  and  evaporate 
on  a  porcelain  capsule  until  thoroughly  dry ; 
the  weight  of  the  dry  residue  will  be  the  num- 
ber of  grains,  i.  c.,  the  percentage,  of  caustio 
alkali  in  100  grains  of  the  soda  or  potash. 

587.  To  Find  the  Percentage  of  Car- 
bonated Alkali  in  a  Caustic  Soda  or  Pot" 
ash.     Dissolve  100  grains  of  the  sample  in  4 
ounces  water  in  a  flask ;  next  weigh  out  100 
grains  finely  powdered  crystals  of  oxalic  acid  ; 
add  small  portions  of  this  acid  at  a  time  to 
the  alkali  in  the  flask,  stirring  thoroughly 
with  a  glass  rod,  and  apply  heat ;  continue  ttf> 
add  the  acid  until  the  hot  mixture  tinges  lit- 
mus paper  slightly  red ;  the  saturation  is  then 
complete,  and  the  acid  has  neutralized  or  com- 
bined with  all  the  alkali,  both  carbonate  and 
caustic.     Weigh   the    oxalic   acid   which  re- 
mains ;  and,  by  deducting  from  100,  we  know 
how  much  we  have  used.      Now  every  7.87 
grains  oxalic  acid  that  have  been  used,  have 
neutralized  5  grains  soda  or  7  grains  potash, 
according  as  the  sample  consists  of  caustic 
soda  or  caustic  potash ;    hence  we  find  the 
total  number  of  grains  of  alkali  in  the  100 
grains  under  test.     By  the  previous  method 
we  can  find  the  percentage  of  caustic  alkali  in 
100  grains    of    the  sample ;    deducting    the 
grains  of  this  latter  from  the  weight  of  the 
whole  alkali  eliminated  by  the  oxalic  acid,  the 
balance  or  remainder  will  be  the  percentage 
of  carbonated  alkali. 

By  these  three  steps  we  get  the  percentage 
of  water,  the  percentage  of  caustic  alkali,  and 
the  percentage  of  carbonated  alkali ;  these 
added  together  and  deducted  from  100  give 
the  percentage  of  foreign  matter  or  impurity 
in  the  matter  tested.  (See  Alkalimetry.) 

588.  To  Make  Soap-makers'  Concen- 
trated Caustic  Lye.     Boil  85  gallons  water 
in  a  kettle  capable  of  holding  150  gallons; 
stir  in,  a  little  at  a  time,  100  pounds  powdered 
soda  (or  potash,  if  for  potash  lye),  until  it 
is  all  dissolved;   then  mix  in  gradually,  by 
stirring,  48  pounds  freshly  slacked  lime  of  a 
creamy  consistency ;  the  boiling  must  not  be 
allowed  to  slacken  during  the  whole  process, 
until  complete  causticity  is  obtained,  which 
may  be  ascertained  by  taking  a  little  in  a  test 
glass,  and,  lohen  cool,  adding  to  it  a  few  drops 
of  nitric  acid ;  if  this  causes  effervescence,  the 
causticity  is  imperfect  and  the  boiling  must  be 
continued  until  a  test  with  nitric  acid  causes 
no  effervescence.    When  this  is  the  case,  the 
contents  of  the  kettle  should  be  allowed  to 
cool  and  settle  for  about  12  hours.     The  clear 
liquor  can  then  be  drawn  off  into  a  vat  lined 
with  lead — a  syphon  may  be  used  for  this  pur- 
pose with  advantage.     The  lye  can  be  made 
to  any  desired  strength  by  evaporation. 

5819.  To  Make  Concentrated  Caustic 
Soda  Lye— Kurten's  Method.  The  lye  fit 
for  toilet  soap  must  be  either  made  from  the 
purest  German  soda  at  95  degrees  of  strength, 
or  (which  is  better  for  the  purpose)  from 
crystallized  soda.  English  soda  of  80  to  83 
degrees,  such  as  is  generally  found  in  com- 
merce, is  not  to  be  used,  as  it  produces  a  bad 
article. 


SOFT    SOAPS. 


73 


When  the  lye  for  finer  soap  is  to  be  made, 
100  pounds  lime  are  added  to  100  pounds 
German  soda  at  95  per  cent.,  whereas  45 
pounds  lime  to  100  pounds  crystallized  soda  is 
the  general  proportion. 

The  soda  is  dissolved  in  the  boiler  with 
water,  or  with  a  weak  lye  remaining  from  a 
former  operation  at  20  degrees  of  strength, 
and  afterwards  added  to  the  lime  slacked  to  a 
state  like  broth.  This  mixture  must  boil  2 
hours  and  be  left  to  deposit. 

The  next  day,  the  lye,  which  probably  may 
be  at  12  degrees  (Baume")  must  be  taken  out, 
and  the  boiler  filled  afresh.  The  lye  drawn 
from  the  lime  and  at  8  degrees,  is  poured  in 
with  it  to  evaporate.  By  this  method  a  lye  is 
produced  at  a  medium  of  9  or  10  degrees,  but 
it  must  be  evaporated  till,  according  to 
areometer,  it  shows  34  degrees.  After  the 
cooling  it  will  weigh  36  pounds.  This  evap- 
oration of  the  lye  is  to  increase  its  causticity, 
and  to  cause  all  the  dirt  contained  in  it  to 
precipitate  to  the  bottom,  which  can  be  done 
in  a  day  if  it  is  sufficiently  strong. 

The  clear  lye  is  then  drawn  off  from  the 
dirty  deposit,  and  put  either  into  vitriol  bottles 
or  into  an  iron  vessel  well  covered.  If  vitriol 
bottles  are  used,  they  must  be  filled  with 
water  in  which  some  lime  has  been  dissolved, 
to  take  away  any  acid  remaining  in  the  bottle, 
which  would,  if  this  precaution  be  not  taken, 
absorb  much  of  the  causticity  of  the  lye ;  and 
this  must  be  done  several  days  before  using 
the  bottles.  The  dirt  and  deposit  from  the 
salt  remaining  at  the  bottom  after  the  boiling, 
can  be  added  to  the  lime  in  the  weak  lyes. 

"We  have  not  made  the  experiment  of  using 
the  lye  stronger  than  11  degrees  before  evap- 
oration, as  we  have  learned  from  France  that 
it  must  not  be  stronger  than  11  degrees.  Yet, 
after  mature  experience,  it  appears  to  us 
now  that  a  lye  can  be  obtained  quite  as  good 
by  adding  more  soda  and  lime  to  the  lye,  and 
thus  increasing  the  strength  to  18  or  20  de- 
grees, by  which  the  evaporation  is  spared. 
In  this  case  more  vessels  are  wanted,  which 
must  not  be  of  wood,  but  of  iron,  because  the 
wood  will  color  the  lye,  which  must  be 
especially  avoided  for  fine  soap,  for  the  only 
means  of  obtaining  a  perfect  soap,  free  from 
defect,  is  to  use  none  except  the  finest  and 
whitest  lye,  and  oil  or  grease  of  the  greatest 
purity. 

590.  To    Test    Lye.      In  testing   the 
strength  of  lyes  with  a  hydrometer,  an  exact 
result  could  be  obtained  if  the  caustic  alkali 
employed    by  soap-makers  and  dyers  were 
absolutely  pure ;    but  as  this  is  seldom,   if 
ever,  the  case,  the  impurities  which  exist  in 
the  lyes  under    examination,  influence    the 
specific  weight  of  the  lye,  and  due  allowance 
must  be  made  for  this ;  thus,  an  indication  by 
the  hydrometer  of  20  per  cent,  does  not  prove 
that  the   lye  contains  20  per  cent,  of  pure 
caustic  alkali,  but  includes  the  foreign  matter. 
Still,  this  method  of  testing  will  give  com- 
parative strengths  exactly. 

591.  White   Soap.     Lard,  40  pounds; 
and    caustic    soda    lye,   of   35°    Baume",    20 
pounds.     Melt  the  fat  by  a  heat  not  exceeding 
150°  Fahr.;  add,  during  constant  stirring,  10 
pounds  of  the  lye.     After  one  hour's  stirring, 
the  heat  being  continued  all  the  time  at  a 
moderate  degree,  the  remaining  10  pounds  of 


lye  are  to  be  added.  When  the  paste  has  be- 
come smooth  and  uniform  throughout,  it  is 
transferred  to  a  cooling  frame,  perfumed,  and 
left  in  a  room  of  moderate  temperature  for  a 
few  days  to  set  and  ripen.  It  is  then  ready 
to  be  cut  into  tablets  and  pressed. 

592.  Almond  Soap.     Genuine  almond 
soap  is  made  from  oil  of  sweet  almonds,  50 
pounds,    and    soda   lye  of    36°  Baume,  25 
pounds,  the  latter  being  gradually  added  to 
the  former  at  a  temperature  between  125°  to 
150°,  and  the  whole  stirred  constantly  until 
the  mixture  is  a  smooth  paste.    It  is  then 
transferred  to  a  cooling  frame,  perfumed  with 
attar  of  bitter  almonds,   and   then  left  for 
several  days  to  set  and  ripen. 

593.  Ordinary   Cocoanut    Oil   Soap. 
100  pounds  cocoanut  oil — or  90  pounds  cocoa- 
nut  oil  and  10  pounds  of  either  tallow  or  palm 
oil — saponified  by  the  cold  process  with  225 
pounds  caustic  soda  lye  of  21°  Baume',  and  75 
pounds  of  salt  water  of  12°  Baume",  will  com- 
bine to  form  400  pounds  of  cocoanut  oil  soap. 

594.  Cocoanut  Oil  Soap.     100  pounds 
cocoanut  oil  and  56  pounds  caustic  soda  lye  of 
36°  Baum6,  treated  according  to  the  cold 
process,  will  produce  153  pounds  cocoanut  oil 
soap. 

595.  Paris  Toilet  Tablet   Soap.     87 
pounds  of  this  soap  can  be  made  by  the  cold 
process  by  using  the  following  ingredients :  20 

Eounds  tallow,  30  pounds  cocoanut  oil,  8  pounds 
ird,  31  pounds  caustic  soda  lye  of  36°  Baume, 
and  5  pounds  caustic  potash  lye  of  the  same 
strength. 

596.  Paris  Toilet  Round  Soap.     25 
pounds  cocoanut  oil,  75  pounds  lard,  50  to  52 
pounds  caustic  soda  lye  of  36°  Baume",  will 
produce  150  pounds  of  the  soap. 

597.  Shaving  Soap.     Either  66  pounds 
tallow  and  34  pounds  cocoanut  oil— or  33 
pounds  of  tallow,  the  same  quantity  of  palm 
oil,  and  34  pounds  cocoanut  oil — treated  by 
the  cold  process  with  120  pounds  caustic  soda 
lye  of  27°  Banine",   will  make  214  pounds  of 
shaving  soap.    An  addition  of  12  pounds  of 
salt  water  of  12°  Baume  to  the  palm  oil  mix- 
ture, will  add  12  pounds  to  the  yield  of  soap. 

598.  Washing    Soap.     A    mixture    of 
either  60  pounds  tallow — or  30  pounds  each  of 
tallow  and  palm  oil — with  40  pounds  of  cocoa- 
nut  oil,  treated  by  the  cold  process  with  125 
pounds  caustic  soda  lye  of  27°  Baume,  and 
25  pounds  salt  water  of  12°  Baume',  will  turn 
out  244  pounds  washing  soap. 

599.  Cheap  Washing  Soap.  60  pounds 
cocoanut  oil  with  40  pounds  of  either  tallow 
or  palm  oil,   treated   cold  with  135  pounds 
caustic  soda  lye  of  27°  Baume",  and  50  pounds 
salt  water  of  15°  Baume",  will  produce  278 
pounds  washing  soap. 


Soft  SoapS.  These  differ  from  the 
hard  soaps  in  having  potash  in  place 
of  soda  as  their  alkaline  base.  They  are  all 
more  or  less  pasty  or  gelatinous;  and  they 
may  be  made  either  by  the  boiling  or  cold 
process.  Of  the  soft  soaps  used  in  perfumery, 
that  known  as  fig  soap  is  the  only  one  that  is 
boiled. 

601.     Fig  Soap.     The  fat  stock  is  chiefly 
oil — generally  olive  oil — with  the  addition  of 


SOFT    SOAPS. 


a  little  tallow  to  give  it  the  granular  appear- 
ance called  fig. 

602.  Shaving  Cream.    This  is  made  by 
melting  20  pounds  of  lard  in  a  steam  bath  at 
a  temperature  of  212°,  and  then  letting  5 
pounds  of  caustic  potassa  lye  of  36°  Baurne 
run  in  very  slowly,  during  constant  stirring  with 
a  wooden  paddle;    when  the  paste  becomes 
thick,  5  pounds  more  of  lye  are  added  in  the 
same  manner.    After  several  hours'  stirring 
the  paste  becomes  firm,  and  is  finished.    It  is 
then  transferred  to  a  mortar  and  triturated 
until  the  soap  becomes  perfectly  even  through- 
out, and  assumes  a  pearly  appearance.    Attar 
of  almonds  is  the  perfume  for  almond  cream ; 
and  attar  of  rose  for  rose  cream.    They  are 
dissolved  in  a  little  alcohol,  and  added  during 
the  trituration.    The  rose  cream  is  colored  at 
the  same  time  with  tincture  of  alkanet. 

603.  Rypophagon    Soap.      This  is  a 
mixture  of  equal  parts  of  pale  yellow  resin 
soap  and  fig  soft  soap,  perfumed  with  attars 
of  anise  and  citronella. 

604.  Essence   of   Soap    or   Shaving 
Cream.     Take  J  pound  white  soft  soap  (see 
No.  606),  2  fluid  drachms  liquor  of  potassa ; 
1  pint  rectified  spirit,  and  perfume  at  will; 
put  them  into  a  strong  bottle  of  glass  or  tin, 
cork  it  close,  set  it  in  warm  water  for  a  short 
time,  and  occasionally  agitate  it  briskly  until 
solution  be  complete.    After  repose,  pour  off 
the  clean  portion  frojn  the  dregs  (if  any)  into 
clean  bottles  for  use,  and  at  once  closely  cork 
them.     If  the  solution  be    not    sufficiently 
transparent,  a  little  rectified  spirit  should  be 
added  to  it  before  decantation.    A  little  spirit 
(fully  proof)  may  be  added  if  it  be  desired  to 
render  it  thinner.    If  much  essential  oil  be 
used  to  perfume  it,  the  transparency  of  the 
product  will  be  lessened. 

605.  Soft  Olive  Oil  Soap;  Medicinal 
or  Toilet  Soft  Soap  is  soap  made  of  olive  oil 
and  potash.     It  is  yellowish- white,  inodorous, 
and  of  the  consistence  of  thick  honey.    It  is 
the  soft  soap  (sapo  mollis)  of  the  British 
Pharmacopojia. 

606.  White  Soft  Soap  is  soap  made  of 
lard  and  potash.     Only  used  in.  cosmetics  and 
as  a  toilet  soap. 

607.  Fine  Shaving  Cream.    Take  of 
clarified  lard,  7  pounds  (avoirdupois) ;  potash 
lye  (26  percent,  of  caustic  potash),  3f  pounds ; 
rectified  spirits,  3  ounces ;    oil  of  bitter  al- 
monds, 2  drachms.    Melt  the  lard  in  a  porce- 
lain vessel,  by  a  salt-water  bath ;  then  run  in 
the  lye,   very  slowly,   agitating    the  whole 
time ;  when  about  half  the  lye  is  in,  the  mix- 
ture begins  to  curdle ;   it  will,  however,  be- 
come  so  firm   that  it  cannot  be  stirred.     It 
will  assume  a  pearly  appearance  by  triturating 
in  a  mortar,  and  slowly  adding  the  alcohol, 
holding  the  oil  of  almonds  in  solution.     This 
furnishes  a  splendid  shaving  cream. 

608.  To  Make  Good  Common   Soft 
Soap.     For  a  ban-el  of  soap  take  12  pounds 
of  potash  to  14  pounds  of  grease.    Dissolve 
the  potash  over  night  in  2  pailfuls  of  hot  soft 
water,  in  the  morning  pour  it  hot  over  the 
grease,  which    must  have    been    previously 
rendered  down  and  put  in   the  barrel,  put 
more  water  on  the  potash  that  remains  undis- 
solved;  when  hot,  add  as  before,  and  so  on 
until  all  the  potash  is  dissolved ;  fill  up  the 
barrel  more  slowly  with  cold  water,  finishing 


it  the  next  day;  stir  it  very  frequently  during 
the  day  and  for  several  successive  days.  Al- 
low it  "to  rest  for  three  months  in  the  cellar. 

609.  Shaker  Method  of  Making  Soft 
Soap.     Place  a  shallow  iron  kettle,  to  hold 
from  4  to  6  ban-els,  just  out  of  the  wash-room, 
under  cover  of  a  shed.     Extend  £  or  £  inch 
pipe  for  steam  to  the  middle  of  the  bottom, 
bending  it  to  form  of  surface,  and  terminating 
with  open  end.     Take  another  pipe  to  dis- 
charge cold  water  over  the  top  of  the  kettle. 
Use  the  best  quality  of  first  sorts  of  potash, 
in  the  proportion  of  6  pounds  of  potash  to  7 
pounds  of  grease,  for  a  ban-el  of  40  gallons. 
Break  up  the  potash  into  small  lumps,  and 
dissolve  it  in  say  2  pails  of  hot  water  to  24 
pounds.     It  dissolves  rather  slowly  when  the 
potash  is  good.    "When  dissolved,  put  the  so- 
lution into  the  kettle,  add  the  grease  quite 
warm,  and  stir  the  mixture  together.      Allow 
it  to  stand  over  night,  if  convenient.     In  the 
morning,  apply  a  moderate  jet  of  steam  until 
the  mixture  appears  ropy,  or  rather  soapy. 
Shut  off  the  steam  and  open  the  cold  water 
valve,  stirring  the  mixture  as  the  water  runs, 
until  the  kettle  is  full,  or  the  required  quantity 
obtained  for  the  materials  used. 

610.  To  Make   Good  Lye.      Hickory 
ashes  are  the  best  for  making  common  wash- 
ing soft  soap  (when  it  is  not  desirable  to  use 
the  potash  lye),  but  those  from  sound  beech, 
maple,  or  almost  any  kind  of  hard  wood,  ex- 
cept oak,   will    answer    well.      A    common 
barrel,  set  upon  an  inclined  platform,  makes 
a  very  good  leach,  but  one  made  of  boards  set 
in  a  trough  in  V  shape  is  to  be  preferred,  for 
the  strength  of  the  ashes  is  better  obtained, 
and  it  may  be  taken  to  pieces  when  not  in 
use,  and  laid  up.     First,  in  the  bottom  of  the 
leach  put  a  few  sticks  ;    over  them  spread  a 
piece  of  carpet  or  woolen  cloth,  wliich    is 
much  better  than  straw ;  put  on  a  few  inches 
of  ashes,  and  from  4  to  8  quarts  lime ;   fill 
with  ashes,  moistened,  and  tamp  down  well — 
tamp  the  firmest  in  the  centre.     It  is  difficult 
to  obtain  the  full  strength  of  ashes  in  a  barrel 
without  removing  them  after  a  day's  leaching, 
and  mixing  them  up  and  replacing.     The  top 
should  be  first  thrown  oft',   and  new  ashes 
added  to  make  up  the  proper  quantity.     Use 
boiling  water  for  second  leaching.     This  lye 
should  be  sufficiently  strong  to  float  a  potato. 

611.  To    Make    Soft    Soap.      Take 
about  4  gallons  the  above  lye,  and  boil  up 
thoroughly  with  12  pounds  of  clear  grease, 
then  add  the  lye  as  it  is  obtained,  keeping  a 
slow  fire,  and  stirring  often,  until  you  have 
a  barrel  of  soap.     After  boiling  the   grease 
and  4  gallons  of  lye  together,  it  may  be  put 
in  a  ban-el  and  the  rest  of  the  lye  added  there, 
which   will    form    good    soap  .if   frequently 
stirred,  but  the  heating  process  is  the  best 
when  weather  and  time  will  permit  the  work 
to  be  done. 

612.  To  Make  Soft  Soap.     Break  up  8 
pounds  potash  into  small  lumps,  and  put  it 
into  an  iron  pot  with  about  3  gallons  boiling 
water;    melt  in  another  iron  pot  8  pounds 
clarified  fat;  put  3  or  4  gallons  hot  water  into 
a  clean  barrel,  and  add  to  it  a  ladleful  each  of 
the  lye  and  the  fat ;  stir  thoroughly,  and  add 
the  lye  and  the  fat,  a  single  ladleful  of  each 
at    a    time,   until  the  whole  is  thoroughly 
mixed ;  then  stir  in  a  ladleful  of  hot  water  at 


SOFT    SOAPS. 


75 


a  time  until  the  barrel  is  full,  and  stir  till  the 
mixture  becomes  a  creamy  mass ;  put  it  away 
for  3  months  in  a  moderately  cool  place  anc 
it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

613.  To    Make    Turpentine    Soap. 
Cut  up  3  pounds  brown  soap  and  melt  it  in  7 
quarts  water,  then  put  it  in  a  stone  pot  anc 
add  9  table -spoonfuls  spirits  of  turpentine  anc 
6  of  alcohol. 

614.  To  Use  Turpentine  Soap.    Make 
very  hot  suds  with  some  of  the  soap  (see  las 
receipt),  and  let  the  clothes  remain  in  it  hall 
an  hour.     Then  wash  them  out  and  rinse  at 
other  clothes  are  done.     It  is  particularly  nice 
for  blankets  and  quilts,  as  it  removes  the  dirt 
and  requires  very  little  rubbing. 

615.  To  Make  Soft  Soap  Hard.     Put 
into  a  kettle  4  pailfuls  of  soft  soap,  and  stir  in 
it,  by  degrees,  about  1  quart  of  common  salt. 
Boil  until  all  the  water  is  separated  from  the 
curd,  remove  the  fire  from  the  kettle,  and 
draw  oft'  the  water  with  a  syphon  (a  yard  or 
so  of  india  rubber  hose  will  answer).    Then 
pour  the  soap  into  a  wooden  form  in  which 
muslin  has  been  placed.    (See  No.  549.)    For 
this  purpose,  a  wooden  box,  sufficiently  large 
and  tight,  may  be  employed.     "When  the  soap 
is  firm,  turn  it  out  to  dry,  cut  into  bars  with  a 
brass    wire    and    let   it    harden.      A    little 
powdered  resin  will  assist  the  soap  to  harden, 
and  give  it  a  yellow  color.     If  the  soft  soap  is 
very  thin,  more  salt  must  be  used. 

616.  Labor-saving    Soap.      Take   2 
pounds  sal  soda,  2  pounds  yellow  bar  soap, 
and  10  quarts  water.     Cut  the  soap  in  thin 
slices,  and  boil  together  2  hours;  strain,  and 
it  will  be  fit  for  use.     Put  the  clothes  in  soak 
the  night  before  you  wash,  and  to  every  pail 
of  water  in  which  you  boil  them,  add  a  pound 
of  soap.     They  will  need  no  rubbing;  merely 
rinse  them  out,  and  they  will  be  perfectly 
clean  and  white. 

617.  To    Estimate   the   Quality    of 
Soap.     The  quality  of  soap  may  be  properly 
estimated   from   the   amount  of   fatty   acids 
which  any  given  specimen  contains.      The 
following  simple  analysis  may  be  performed 
by  any  one,  and  may  be  relied  upon  as  giving 
good    results.      The    soap    to    be    examined 
should   be  dissolved  in  water.      If   distilled 
water  cannot  be  readily  obtained,  rain  water 
will   answer  well   enough.     When  a  perfect 
solution  is  obtained,  add  hydrochloric  acid. 
After  a  little  while   the  fatty  acids  will  be 
found  to  be  separated  from  the  other  con- 
stituents of  the  soap.     These  should  be  col- 
lected, and  their  relative  weight  for  any  given 
quantity  estimated.     The  relative  weight  thus 
found  will  be  a  sufficiently  just  indication  of 
the  quality. 

618.  To  Test  Soap.     The  readiest  way 
to  find  whether  soap  will  injure  the  delicate 
skin  of  women  or  children  is  to  test  it  with 
the  tongue.     Good  soap,  in  which  the  caustic 
alkali  is  neutralized  by  thorough  combination 
with  the   fat,  will   not  have  a  sharp   taste. 
The  soap  used  in  medicine,  and  the  transpar- 
ent soaps,  are  neutral  and  good.     Many  toilet 
soaps,   and  especially  the  imitation  marbled 
castile  soap,  so  abundant  in  the  trade,  contain 
too  much  free  alkali.     They  have  not  been 
thoroughly  boiled,  and  are  very  sharp.     It  is 
not  advisable  to  use  such  soaps  upon  delicate 
skins,  as  they  induce  redness  of  appearance, 


and  give  the  skin  a  tendency  to  roughen  or 
chap,  especially  when  exposed  to  the  wind. 

619.  To  Pulverize  Hard  Soap.     Hard 
bar  soap  should  be  scraped  or  planed  into  fine 
shavings,    dried    in    the    sun,    or   by    heat, 
thoroughly,   and  then  pounded  or  crushed. 
After  this,  it  should  be  placed  in  a  bowl  or 
kettle,  and  a  small  cannon  ball  should  be  used 
to  pulverize  it ;    when  thoroughly  pulverized 
it  may  be  sifted  through  a  very  fine  sieve. 

620.  To  Analyze  Soap.     Take  a  small 
portion  of  the  soap,  place  it  in  a  suitable 
vessel  (a  beaker  glass),  add  ether  to  it,  and 
next  acetic  acid  in  a  somewhat  smaller  quan- 
tity.   The  liquid  will  separate,  after  a  while, 
into  two  distinct  layers,  the  upper  of  which 
contains  in  solution  the  fatty  acids,  while  the 
lower  layer  contains  the  alkalies  and  salts, 
and  such  substances  as  might  happen  to  be 
insoluble  in  the  two  fluids  just  named.    By 
means  of  a  pipette,  the  fluids  are  separated 
from  each  other.    The  ethereal  solution  is 
poured  into  a  previously  weighed  beaker  glass, 
and  the  ether  evaporated  upon  a  water  bath, 
and  next  again  weighed  with  the  fatty  acids 
it    contains.      The    aqueous    acetic  acid    is 
evaporated  to  dryness,  and  the  quantity  of 
alkali  determined  according  to   well-known 
methods.     (See  No.  586). 

621.  Analysis  of  Soda  and  Potassa 
Lyes.     The  following  tables  will  show  at  a 
glance  all  the  practical  information  necessary 
for  analyzing  or  testing  the  strength  of  lyes, 
either  simple  or  caustic,  as  well  as  affording 
thorough  guidance  in  mixing  or  adjusting  the 
strength  of  lye  for  any  specific  purpose. 

622.  Lorme's  Tables.     The   following 
tables  are  used  to  transform  stronger  lyes  into 
weaker  of  a  definite  degree  of  strength,  and 
are  by  Mr.  Eugene  Lorme. 

The  first  column  at  the  left  of  each  table 
shows  the  quantity  and  the  degree  of  the  lye 
to  be  diluted. 

The  second  indicates  the  quantity  of  water 
to  be  added  to  the  lye. 

The  third  gives  the  amount  of  the  lye  ob- 
tained by  the  admixture  of  both  liquids. 

The  fourth  exhibits  the  degrees  of  Baume'a 
areometer  of  the  lye. 

623.  Table    showing    the    different 
Areometric  Degrees  resulting  from    a 
mixture  of  10  gallons  of  soda  lye,  of  36 
degrees  Baume,  with  quantities  of  water 
varying  from  10  to  90  gallons. 


Number  of 
gallons 
of  Lye  of  36 
degrees. 

Number  of 
gallons 
of  Water. 

Number  of 
gallons 
of  obtained 
Lye. 

Degrees  of 
Baume  of 
the  mixture. 

10 

10 

20 

23° 

10 

20 

30 

17 

10 

30 

40 

14 

10 

40 

50 

12 

10 

50 

60 

10 

10 

60 

70 

9 

10 

70 

80 

8 

10 

80 

90 

7J 

10 

90 

100 

6i 

10  gallons  of  lye,  of  36  degrees  Baumo, 

weigh  112^  Ibs. 

76 


SOFT    SOAPS. 


624.  Table  showing  the  different  Areo- 
metric  Degrees  resulting  from  a  mix- 
ture of  10  pounds  of  soda  lye,  of  36  de- 
grees Baume,  with  quantities  of  water 
varying  from  10  to  90  pounds. 

627.     Gerlach's   Table,  showing    the 
percentage  of  Carbonate  of  Soda  con- 
tained in  its  Solutions. 

Per  cent. 

Specific 
Weight. 

Per  cent. 

Specific 
Weight. 

Number  of 
pounds 
of  Lye  of  36 
degrees. 

Number  of 
pounds  of 
Water  to  be 
employed. 

Number  of 
pounds 
of  Lye 
obtained. 

Degrees  of 
Baume  of 
the  mixture. 

1 
2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 

1.00914 
1.01829 
1.02743 
1.03658 
1.04572 
1.05513 
1.06454 
1.07396 
1.08337 
1.09278 
1.10258 
1.11238 
1.12219 
1.13199 
1.14179 
1.15200 
1.16222 
1.17243 
1.18265 
1.19286 
1.20344 
1.21402 
1.22459 
1.23517 
1.24575 
1.25681 

27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 

1.26787 
1.27893 
1.28999 
1.30105 
1.31261 
1.32417 
1.33573 
1.34729 
1.35885 
1.37082 
1.38279 
1.39476 
1.40673 
1.41870 
1.43104 
1.44338 
1.45573 
1.46807 
1.48041 
1.49314 
1.50588 
1.51861 
1.53135 
1.54408 
1.55728 
1.57048 

10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

*    10 

10 
10 
10 

10 
20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 

20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 
100 

21° 
14* 

Hi 
10 
9 
8 
6i 
H 

5  nearly 

8.8  gallons  of  lye,   of  30  degrees  Baume', 
weigh  100  pounds. 

625.  Table  showing  the  different  Areo- 
metric  Degrees  resulting  from  a  mix- 
ture of  10  gallons  of  soda  lye,  of  30  de- 
grees Baume,  with  quantities  of  water 
varying  from  10  to  90  gallons. 

Number  of 
gallons 
of  Lye  of  30 
degrees. 

Number  of 
gallons  of 
Water  to  be 
employed. 

Number  of 
gallons 
of  Lye 
obtained. 

Degrees  of 
Baume  of 
the  mixture. 

628.      Schiffs    Table,    showing   the 
percentage  of  Crystallized  and  Anhy- 
drous Soda  in  Solutions  of  Carbonate  of 
Soda. 

10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

10 
20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 

20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 
100 

19° 

nearly  14 
11 

9 
8 
7 
6 
5 
4J 

Specific  Weight. 

Per  cent,  of 
Crystallized 
Soda. 

Per  cent,  of 
Anhydrous 
Soda. 

1.0038 
1.0076 
1.0114 
1.0153 
1.0192 
1.0231 
1.0270 
1.0309 
1.0348 
1.0388 
1.0428 
1.0468 
1.0508 
1.0548 
1.0588 
1.0628 
1.0668 
1.0708 
1.0748 
1.0789 
1.0830 
1.0871 
1.0912 
1.0953 
1.0994 
1.1035 
1.1076 
1.1117 
1.1158 
1.1200 
1.1242 
1.1284 
1.1326 
1.1368 

1 

2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
'28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 

0.370 
0.741 
1-112 
1.482 
1.853 
2.223 
2.594 
2.965 
3.335 
3.706 
4.076 
4.447 
4.817 
5.188 
5.558 
5.929 
6.299 
6.670 
7.041 
7.412 
7.782 
8.153 
8.523 
8.894 
9.264 
9.635 
10.005 
10.376 
10.746 
11.118 
11.488 
11.859 
12.230 
12.600 

10  gallons  of  soda  lye,  of  30  degrees,  weigh 
104  pounds  ;  75  gallons  of  this  lye  and  25  gal- 
lons of  water  give  100  gallons  of  lye  of  25 
degrees  Bamne.     There  are  23J  pounds  ot 
caustic  soda  wanted  for  making  10  gallons  of 
lye  of  30  degrees  Baume'. 

626.  Table  showing  the  different  Areo- 
metric  Degrees  resulting  from  a  mix- 
ture of  10  pounds  of  soda  lye,  of  30  de- 
grees Baume,  with  quantities  of  water 
varying  from  10  to  90  pounds. 

Number  of 
pounds 
of  Lye  of  30 
degrees. 

Number  of 
pounds  of 
Water  to  be 
employed. 

Number  of 
pounds 
of  Lye 
obtained. 

Degrees  of 
Baume  of 
the  mixture. 

10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

10 
20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 

20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 
100 

17° 
12 

9* 

n 

6* 

5* 
5or5i 

4i 

4 

9.6  gallons  of  lye,  of  30  degrees  Baume', 
weigh  100  pounds. 

TO    MAKE    HOME-MADE    TALLOW    CANDLES. 


77 


SchiflPs  Table  (Continued). 

Per  cent,  of 

Per  cent,  of 

Specific  Weight. 

Crystallized 

Anhydrous 

Soda. 

Soda. 

1.1410 

35 

12.971 

1.1452 

36 

13.341 

1.1494 

37 

13.712 

1.1536 

38 

14.082 

1.1578 

39 

14.453 

1  .  1620 

40 

14.824 

1.1662 

41 

15.195 

1.1704 

42 

15.566 

1.1746 

43 

15.936 

1.1788 

44 

16.307 

1.1830 

45 

16.677 

1.1873 

46 

17.048 

1.1916 

47 

17.418 

1.1959 

48 

17.789 

1.2002 

49 

18.159 

1.2045 

50 

18.530 

629.     Table  showing  the  percentage 

of  Anhydrous  Potassa  in  Caustic  Po- 

tassa  Lye. 

Specific 

Potassa  in 

Specific 

Potassa  in 

Gravity. 

100. 

Gravity. 

100. 

1.3300 

28.290 

1.1437 

14.145 

1.3131 

27.158 

1.1308 

13.013 

1.2963 

26.027 

1.1182 

11.882 

1.2805 

24.895 

1.1059 

10.75 

1.2648 

23.764 

1.0938 

9.619 

1  .2493 

22.632 

1.0819 

8.487 

1.2342 

21.500 

1.0703 

7.355 

1.2268 

20.935 

1.0589 

6.224 

1.2122 

19.803 

1.0478 

5.002 

1.1979 

18.671 

1.0369 

3.961 

1.1838 

17.540 

1.0260 

2.829 

1.1702 

16.408 

1.0153 

1.697 

1.1568 

15.277 

1.0050 

0.5658 

630.    Table  showing  the  percentage 
of  Caustic  Soda  in  Soda  Lye. 

Specific 
Gravity. 

Per  cent. 

Specific 
Gravity. 

Per  cent. 

1.4285         30.220 

1.2392 

15.110 

1.4193 

29.616 

1.228 

14.503 

1.4101 

29.011 

1.2178 

13.901 

1.4011 

28.407 

1.2058 

13.297 

1.3923 

27.802 

1.1948 

12.692 

1.3836 

27.200 

1.1841 

12.088 

1.3751 

26.594 

1.1734 

11.484 

1.3388 

25.989 

1.1630 

10.879 

1.3583 

25.385 

1.1528 

10.275 

1.3505 

24.780 

1.1428 

9.670 

1.3425 

24.176 

1.1330 

9.036 

1.3349 

23.572 

1.1233 

8.462 

1.3273 

22.967 

1.1137 

7.857 

1.3198 

22.363 

1.1042 

7.253 

1.3143 

21.884 

1.0948 

6.648 

1.3125 

21.894 

1.0855 

6.694 

1.3053 

21.154 

1.0764 

5.540 

1.2982 

20.550 

1.0675 

4.835 

1.2912 

19.945 

1.0587 

4.231 

1.2843 

19.341 

1.0500 

3.626 

1.2775 

18.730 

1.0414 

3.022 

1  .2708 

18.132 

1.0330 

2.418 

1  .2642 

17.528 

1.0246 

1.813 

1.2578 

16.923 

1.0163 

1.209 

1.2515 

16.319 

1.0081 

.604 

1.2453 

15.814 

1.0040 

.302 

To  Make  Home-made  Tal- 
low CaildleS.  Tallow  candles 
are  made  in.  two  different  forms  ;  the  mould 
sandle  is  the  easiest  to  make,  but  involves  the 
expense  of  a  mould  made  expressly  for  the 
rarpose ;  the  dip  candle  requires  mare  trouhle, 
jut  no  apparatus  to  make  it ;  the  first  cost, 
lowever,  of  a  candle  mould  is  fully  compen- 
sated for  by  the  superiority  of  the  candles 
made  by  it  over  those  made  by  dipping. 

632.  To  Make  Candle  Wicks.     The 
wicks  are  composed  of  cotton  yam  (what  is 
known  as  No.  16  is  a  good  size  for  the  pur- 

)ose) ;  for  candles  of  8  to  the  pound,  about  40 
ihreads,  and  for  6  to  the  pound,  about  50 
.hreads  of  yarn  should  be  very  loosely  twisted 
.ogether.  The  light  from  a  tallow  candle 
can  be  improved  in  clearness  and  brilliancy  by 
using  small  wicks  which  have  been  dipped  in 
spirit  of  turpentine  and  thoroughly  dried. 

633.  To  Make  Mould  Candles.     The 
wicks  are  secured  in  the  centre  of  each  mould 
jy  passing  over  thin  sticks,  one  of  which  is 
iaid  over  the  top  of  the  mould  (corresponding 
to  the  bottom  of  the  candles),  and  the  other 
against  the  bottom  points  of  the  moulds.  The 
end  of  the  twisted  wick  is  fastened  to  the 
stick  on  the  top  of  the  mould,  and  is  drawn 
by  a  piece  of  hooked  wire,    through  each 
mould  in  succession,  leaving  a  loop  outside 
the  bottom  points  of  the  mould ;  the  loops 
are  secured  there  by  the  bottom  stick  passing 
through  them;  the  wicks  are  to  be  drawn 
tight  and  the  last  end  tied  to  the  upper  stick. 
The  melted  tallow  is  then  poured  into  the 
moulds  and  allowed  to  stand  about  6  hours  in 
a  cool  place,   after  which  the  bottom  stick 
must  be  taken  out  of  the  loops,  and  the  can- 
dles withdrawn  from  the  moulds.    The  tallow- 
should  not  be  heated  much  more  than  is  ne- 
cessary to  melt  it. 

634.  To  Make  Dip  Candles.    Dip  can 
dies  are  made  by  looping  a  number  of  sepa- 
rate wicks  over  a  rod,  and  dipping  them  into 
very  liquid  tallow,  until  the  required  thick- 
ness is  attained,  allowing  the  tallow  which 
adheres  after  each  dipping  to  set  or  harden  be- 
fore dipping  again.     Before  the  second  dip,  it 
is  well  to  lay  the  wicks  on  a  flat  surface,  and 
straighten  them,  and  a  suitable  contrivance 
adopted  for  holding  the  rod  while  drying  be- 
tween the  dips. 

635.  Tallow  for  Making  Candles.    A 
good  tallow  for  candles  consists  of  about  $•  beef 
and  f-  mutton  suet.  If  required  for  summer  use 
it  will  be  improved  by  hardening  according  to 
receipts  No.  639  or  640 ;  it  can,  if  needed,  be 
so  hardened  as  to  have  almost  the  appearance 
of  stearine.     (See  No.  638.) 

636.  To  Make  Lard  Candles.  To  every 
8  pounds  of  lard  add  1  ounce  of  nitric  acid. 
Having  carefully  weighed  the  lard,  place  it 
over  a  slow  fire,  or  at  least  merely  melt  it ; 
then  add  the  acid,  and  mould  the  same  as  tal- 
low ;  this  makes  a  clear,  beautiful  candle.    A 
small  proportion  of  beeswax  will  make  them 
harder. 

637.  To   Harden   Tallow    Candles. 
The  following  mixtures  for  hardening  tallow- 
candles  are  patented  in  England.     The  can- 
dles are  successively  and  rapidly  dipped,  first 
in  Mixture  I.,  which  consists  of  stearic  acid, 
50  parts ;  tallow,  44  parts ;  camphor,  3  parts ; 


78 


TANNING. 


•white  resin,  2  parts ;  and  gum  damar,  1  part. 
"When  cool  and  hard  they  aredippedinto  Mix- 
ture II.,  which  consists  of  stearic  acid,  70 
parts;  tallow,  24  parts;  camphor,  3  parts; 
white  wax,  2  parts ;  gum  damar,  1  part ;  and 
finally  into  Mixture  III.,  which  is  composed 
of  stearic  acid,  90  parts;  tallow,  5  parts; 
camphor,  3  parts ;  white  wax,  2  parts. 

638.  To  Harden  Tallow  by  Capaccio- 
ni's  Process.     Melt  1000  parts  tallow,  and 
gradually  stir  into  it  7  parts  sugar  of  lead 
previously  dissolved  in  water,  being  careful  to 
Keep  the  mass  constantly  agitated  during  the 
process.     In  a  few  minutes  diminish  the  heat, 
and  add  15  parts  incense  (powdered)  with  1 
part  turpentine,  keeping  the  mass  constantly 
stirred  as  before.     Then  allow  the  mixture  to 
remain  warm  until  the  insoluble  parts  of  the 
incense  settle  to  the  bottom,  usually  several 
hours.    By  this  process  the  sugar  of  lead  so 
hardens  the  tallow  that  it  yields  a  material 
very  similar  to  stearine  (stearic  acid),  while 
the  incense  improves  its  odor.    It  is  said  that 
tallow  treated  in  this  way,  when  made  into 
candles,  will  not  gutter  or  run. 

639.  To  Harden  and  Whiten  Tallow 
for  Summer  Use.     Gently  boil  the  tallow 
with  the  addition  of  a  little  beeswax,  1  or  2 
hours  a  day  for  2  days,  in  a  suitable  kettle, 
adding  weak  lye  and  skimming  often ;  cut  it 
out  of  the  pot  when  cold,  and  scrape  off  the 
underneath    soft   portion,   adding  fresh  but 
weak  lye  before  the  second  boiling.      The 
third  day  simmer,  and  skim  it,  in  water  con- 
taining 1  pound  of  alum  and  1  pound  saltpe- 
tre for  each  30  pounds  of  tallow.    "When  cold 
it  can,  be  taken  off  the  water  for  use.    Tallow 
thus  treated  will  make  good  hard  white  can- 
dles for  summer  purposes. 

640.  To  Harden  Tallow  for  Making 
Candles.     Use  1  pound  of  alum  for  each  5 
pounds  of  tallow.    Dissolve  the  alum  in  wa- 
ter, then  put  in  the  tallow  and  stir  until  both 
are  melted  together,  then  run   in    moulds. 
Candles  made  in  this  way  will  be  as  hard  and 
white  as  wax. 

641.  To  Harden  Tallow  with  Resin. 
To  1  pound  tallow  take  J  pound  common  res- 
in ;  melt  them  together,  and  mould  the  can- 
dles the  usual  way.    This  will  give  a  candle 
of  superior  lighting  power,  and  as  hard  as  a 
wax  candle;  a  vast  improvement  upon  the 
common  tallow  candle,  in  all  respects  except 
color. 


Tanning.  "When  the  skin  of  an  an- 
imal, carefully  deprived  of  hair,  fat, 
and  other  impurities,  is  immersed  in  a  dilute 
solution  of  tannic  acid,  the  animal  matter  grad- 
ually combines  with  the  acid  as  it  penetrates 
inwards,  forming  a  perfectly  insomble  com- 
pound, which  resists  putrefaction  completely ; 
this  is  tanned  leather.  In  practice,  lime  wa- 
ter is  used  for  cleansing  and  preparing  the 
skin;  water  acidulated  with  oil  of  vitriol  (sul- 
phuric acid)  for  raising  or  opening  the  pores ; 
and  an  infusion  of  oak  bark  or  some  other 
astringent  matter  for  the  source  of  the  tannic 
acid.  The  process  is  necessarily  a  slow 
one,  as  dilute  solutions  only  can  be  safely 
used.  Skins  intended  for  curriers,  to  be 
dressed  for  "uppers,"  commonly  require 


about  3  weeks ;  thick  hides,  suitable  for  sole- 
leather,  take  from  12  to  18  months.  Yarious 
modifications  have  been  introduced  into  the 
process,  for  the  purpose  of  reducing  the  time 
required  for  tanning,  but  so  far  with  only  mod- 
erate success,  as  the  leather  so  produced  is 
spongy  and  inferior  in  quality. 

643.  Morocco  Leather  is  prepared  from 
goat  or  sheep  skins;  which,  after  the  action  of 
lime  water  and  a  dung  bath,   are    slightly 
tanned  in  a  bath  of  sumach,  and  subsequently 
grained  and  dressed. 

644.  Russia     Leather    is    generally 
tanned  with  a  decoction  of  willow  bark,  after 
which  it  is  dyed,  and  curried  with  the  einpy- 
reumatic  oil  of  the  birch  tree.    It  is  this  oil 
which  imparts  to  Kussia  leather  its  peculiar 
odor,  and  power  of  resisting  mould  and  damp. 

645.  To  Tan  any  kind  of  Fur  Skins. 
This  will  be  found  an  excellent  plan  for  tan- 
ning any  kind  of  skin  with  the  fur  on.     After 
having  cut  off  the  useless  parts,  and  softened 
the  skin  by  soaking,  remove  the  fatty  matter 
from  the  inside  and  soak  it  in  warm  water  for 
an  hour.    Next,  mix  equal  parts  of  borax, 
saltpetre,  and  glauber  salts  (sulphate  of  soda), 
in  the  proportion  of  about  -J  ounce  of  each  for 
each  skin,  with  sufficient  water  to  make  a 
thin  paste ;  spread  this  with  a  brush  over  the 
inside  of  the  skin,  applying  more  on  the  thick- 
er parts  than  on  the  thinner :  double  the  skin 
together,  flesh  side  inwards,  and  place  it  in  a 
cool  place.    After  standing  24  hours,  wash  the 
skin  clean,   and  apply,  in  the  same  manner  as 
before,  a  mixture  of  1  ounce  sal  soda,  -J  ounce 
borax,  and  2  ounces  hard  white  soap,  melted 
slowly  together  without  being  allowed  to  boil; 
fold  together  again  and  put  away  in  a  warm 
place  for  24  horn's.    After  this,   dissolve  4 
ounces  alum,  8  ounces  salt,  and  2  ounces  sal- 
eratus,  in  sufficient  hot  rain  water  to  saturate 
the  skin;  when  cool  enough  not  to  scald  the 
hands,  soak  the  skin  in  it  for  12  hours ;  then 
wring  out  and  hang  it  up  to  dry.     When  dry 
repeat  this  soaking  and  drying  2  or  3  times,  till 
the  skin  is  sufficiently  soft.    Lastly,  smooth 
the  inside  with  fine  sand  paper  and  pumice 
stone. 

646.  To  Tan  Sheep's  Pelts  with  the 
Wool  On.     "Wash  the  pelts  in  warm  water, 
and  remove  all  fleshy  matter  from  the  inner 
surface ;  then  clean  the  wool  with  soft  soap, 
and  wash  clean.    "When  the  pelt  is  perfectly 
free  from  all  fatty  and  oily  matter,  apply  the 
following  mixture  to  the  flesh  side,  viz.:    For 
each  pelt  take  common  salt  and  ground  alum, 

1  pound  each,  and  \  ounce  borax;   dissolve 
the  whole  in  1  quart  hot  water,  and  when 
sufficiently  cool  to  bear  the  hand,  add  rye 
meal  to  make  it  like  thick  paste,  and  spread 
the  mixture  on  the  flesh  side  of  the  pelt. 
Fold  the  pelt  lengthwise,  and  let  it  remain 

2  weeks  in  an  airy  and  shady  place ;  then  re- 
move the  paste  from  the  surface,  wash,  and 
dry.    "When  nearly  dry,  scrape  the  flesh  side 
with  a  crescent-shaped  knife.     The  softness  of 
the  pelt  depends  much  on  the    amount  of 
working  it  receives. 

647.  To  Prepare    Sheep   Skins  for 
Mats.     Make  a  strong  lather  with  hot  water, 
and  let  it  stand  till  cold ;  wash  the  fresh  skin 
in  it,  carefully  squeezing  out  all  the  dirt  trom 
the  wool ;  wash  it  in  cold  water  till  all  the 
soap  is  taken  out.    Dissolve  a  pound  each 


TANNING. 


79 


salt,  and  alum  in  2  gallons  hot  water,  and  put 
the  skin  into  a  tub  sufficient  to  cover  it;  let 
it  soak  for  12  hours,  and  hang  it  over  a  pole 
to  drain.  "When  well  drained,  stretch  it  care- 
fully  on  a  board  to  dry,  and  stretch  several 
times  while  drying.  Before  it  is  quite  dry, 
sprinkle  on  the  flesh  side  1  ounce  each  of 
finely  pulverized  alum  and  saltpetre,  rubbing 
it  iu  well.  Try  if  the  wool  be  firm  on  the 
skin ;  if  not,  let  it  remain  a  day  or  two,  then 
rub  again  with  alum ;  fold  the  flesh  sides  to- 
gether and  hang  in  the  shade  for  2  or  3  days, 
turning  them  over  each  day  till  quite  dry. 
Scrape  the  flesh  side  with  a  blunt  knife,  and 
rub  it  with  pumice  or  rotten  stone.  Yery 
beautiful  mittens  can  be  made  of  lamb  skins 
prepared  in  this  way. 

648.  To    Tan   Muskrat  Skins    with 
the  Fur  On.     First  wash  the  hide  in  warm 
water,  and  remove  all  fatty  and  fleshy  matter. 
Then  soak  it  in  a  liquor  prepared  as  follows  : 
To  10  gallons  cold  soft  water  add  8  quarts 
wheat  bran,  $  pint  old  soap,  1  ounce  borax ; 
by  adding  2  ounces  sulphuric  acid  the  soaking 
may  be  done  in  one-half  the  time.     If  the  hides 
have  not  been  salted,  add  1  pint  salt.     Green 
hides  should  not  be  soaked  more  than  8  or  10 
hours.     Dry  ones  should  soak  till  very  soft. 
For  tan  liquor,  to  10  gallons  warm  soft  water 
add  i  bushel  bran ;  stir  well  and  let  stand  in 
a  warm   room  till  it  ferments.      Then  add 
slowly  2^-  pounds  sulphuric  acid ;  stir  all  the 
while.     Muskrat  hides  should  remain  in  about 
4  hours  ;  then  take  out  and  rub  with  a  flesh- 
ing  knife — (an  old  chopping  knife  with  the 
edge  taken  off  will  do.)     Then  work  it  over  a 
beam  until  entirely  dry. 

649.  To   Cure   Rabbit   Skins.     Lay 
the  skin  on  a  smooth  board,  the  fur  side  un- 
dermost, and   fasten    it   down  with    tinned 
tacks.     Wash  it  over  first  with  a  solution  of 
salt ;  then  dissolve  2-J-  ounces  alum  in  1  pint 
of  warm  water,  and  with  a  sponge  dipped  in 
this_solution,  moisten  the  surface  all  over;  re- 
peat this  every  now  and  then  for  three  days ; 
when  the  skin  is  quite  dry,  take  out  the  tacks, 
and  rolling  it  loosely  the  long  way,  the  hair 
inside,   draw  it  quickly  backwards  and  for- 
wards through  a  large  smooth  ring,  until  it  is 
quite  soft,  then  roll  it  in  the  contrary  way  of 
the   skin,   and  repeat  the  operation.     Skins 
prepared  thus  are  useful  for  many  domestic 
purposes. 

650.  To    Clean    Furs.      Furs  may  be 
cleaned  as  follows : — Strip  the  fur  articles  of 
their  stuffing  and  binding,  and  lay  them  as 
much  as  possible  in  a  flat  position.    They  must 
then  be  subjected  to  a  very  brisk  brushing, 
with  a  stiff  clothes  brush;    after  this,  any 
moth-eaten   parts  must  be  cut  out,  and  be 
neatly  replaced  by  new  bits  of  fur  to  match. 

651.  To    Clean    Dark   Furs.      Sable, 
chinchilla,    squirrel,    fitch,    &c.,    should    be 
treated    as    follows :     Warm    a    quantity  of 
new  bran  in  a  pan,  taking  care  that  it  does 
not  burn,  to  prevent  which  it  must  be  actively 
stirred.     When  well  warmed,  rub  it  thorough- 
ly into  the  fur  with  the  hand.      Kepeat  this 
two  or  three  times ;  then  shake  the  fur,  and 
give  it  another  sharp  brushing  until  free  from 
dust. 

652.  To  Clean  Light   Furs.     White 
furs,  ermine,  <fcc.,  may  be  cleaned  as  follows: 
Lay  the  fur  on  a  table,  and  rub  it  well  with 


bran  made  moist  with  warm  water ;  rub  until 
quite  dry,  and  afterwards  with  dry  bran. 
The  wet  bran  should  be  put  on  with  flannelj 
and  the  dry  with  a  piece  of  book-muslin'. 
The  light  furs,  in  addition  to  the  above, 
should  be  well  rubbed  with  magnesia,  or  a 
piece  of  book-muslin,  after  the  bran  process. 
Or  dry  flour  may  be  used  instead  of  wet  bran. 
Ermine  takes  longer  than  Minevar  to  clean. 
They  should  be  rubbed  against  the  way  of 
the  fur. 

653.  To   Improve  Furs  by  Stretch- 
ing.    Furs  are  usually  much  improved  by 
stretching,  which  may  be  managed  as  follows: 
To  1  pint" of  soft  water  add  3  ounces  salt ;  dis- 
solve ;  with  this  solution  sponge  the  inside  of 
the  skin  (taking  care  not  to  wet  the  fur)  un- 
til it  becomes  thoroughly  saturated ;  then  lay 
it  carefully  on  a  board  with  the  fur  side  down- 
wards, in  its  natural  disposition ;  then  stretch 
as  much  as  it  will  bear,  and  to  the  required 
shape,  and  fasten  with  small  tacks.     The  dry- 
ing may  be  quickened  by  placing  the  skin  a 
little  distance  from  the  fire  or  stove. 

654.  To  Preserve  Furs  and  Woolen 
Clothing  from  Moth.     Moths  deposit  their 
eggs  in  the  early  spring.     This,  therefore,  js 
the  time  to  put  away  furs  and  woolens  for 
the  summer.     It  is  not  the  moth,  but  the 
maggot  of  the  moth  that  does  the  mischief 
with  furs  and  woolens.     To  effectually  pre- 
serve them  from  the  ravages  of  these  insects, 
thoroughly  beat  the  furs  with  a  thin  rattan, 
and  air  them  for  several  hours,  then  carefully 
comb  them  with  a  clean  comb,  wrap  them  up 
in  newspapers,  perfectly  tight,  and  put  them 
away  in  a  thoroughly  tight  chest  lined  with 
tin,  or  cedar  wood.    Take  them  out  and  ex- 
amine them  in  the  sun  at  least  once  a  month, 
thoroughly  beating  them.     This,   indeed,   is 
the  secret  of  the  fur-dealers  in  preserving 
their  stock.     Camphor,  which  is  so  much  used 
to  preserve  furs,  impairs  their  beauty  by  turn- 
ing them  light.      The  printing  ink  on  the 
newspapers  is  just  as  effectual  as  camphor, 
being    very  distasteful  to  the  moth.      The 
above  method  may  also  be  adopted  to  pre- 
serve feathers,  and  all  kinds  of  woolen  cloth- 
ing, omitting,  of  course,  the  combing;  cam- 
phor may  be  sprinkled  among  the  woolens. 

655.  To   Clean  Ostrich    Feathers. 
Cut   some  white  curd   soap  in  small  pieces, 
pour  boiling  water  on  them,  and  add  a  little 
pearlash.    When  the  soap  is  quite  dissolved, 
and  the  mixture  cool  enough  for  the  hand  to 
bear,  plunge  the  feathers  into  it,  draw  the 
feathers  through  the  hand  till  the  dirt  appears 
squeezed  out  of  them,  pass  them  through  a 
clean  lather  with  some  blue  in  it,  then  rinse 
in  cold  water  with  blue  to  give  them  a  good 
color.    Beat  them  against  the  hand  to  shake 
off  the  water,  and  dry  by  shaking  them  near 
a  fire.     When  perfectly  dry,  curl  each  fibre 
separately  with  a  blunt  knife  or  ivory  paper- 
folder. 

656.  To  Clean  Grebe.     Carefully  take 
out  the  lining,  and  wash  it  in  the  same  way 
as  directed  for  the  ostrich  feathers.     They 
must  not  be  shaken  until  quite  dry,  and  any 
rent  in  the  skin  must  be  repaired  before  mak- 
ing up  again. 

657.  To    Clean  Swansdown.    White 
swansdown    may    be    washed    in   soap   and 
water ;  after  washing,  shake  it  out,  and  when 


8O 


IMITATION    LIQUORS. 


the  down  is  somewhat  raised,  shake  it  before 
a  clear  fire  to  dry. 

658.  To   Curl   Feathers.     Heat  them 
slightly  before  the  fire,  then  stroke  them  with 
the  back  of  a  knife,  and  they  will  curl. 

659.  To  Cleanse  Feathers  from  An- 
imal Oil.     Mix  well  with  1  gallon  clear  water, 
1  pound  quicklime ;  and,  when  the  lime  is  pre- 
cipitated in  fine  powder,  pour  off  the  clear 
lime-water  for  use.     Put  the  feathers  to  be 
cleaned  in  a  tub,  and  add  to  them  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  the  clear  lime-water  to  cover  them 
about  3  inches.     The  feathers,  when  thor- 
oughly moistened,  will  sink  down,  and  should 
remain  in  the  lime-water  for  3  or  4  days ;  after 
which,  the  foul  liquor  should  be  separated. 

660.  To    Deodorize    Skunk    Skins, 
or  articles  of  clothing    scented,  hold    them 
over  a  fire  of  red  cedar  boughs,  and  sprinkle 
with  chloride  of  lime ;  or,  wrap  them  in  green 
hemlock  boughs,  when  they  are  to  be  had, 
and  in  24  hours  they  will  be  deodorized. 

661.  To    Stiffen   Bristles.     These  are 
usually  stiffened  by  immersing  for  a  short 
time  in  cold  alum  water. 

662.  To  Dye  Bristles.      Bristles    are 
dyed  by  steeping  them  for  a  short  time  in 
any  of  the  common  dyes  used  for  cotton  or 
wool. 


Imitation  Liquors.  The  u- 
quors  generally  met  with  for  sale  and 
consumption  are,  it  is  well  known,  rarely 
genuine ;  and  even  if  genuine,  are  often  adul- 
terated with  water  and  various  deleterious 
compounds.  The  imitations  of  liquor  inno- 
cently imbibed  by  the  unsuspecting  as  whole- 
some stimulants,  contain,  too  freqently,  combi- 
nations that  are  most  hurtful,  if  not  actually 
poisonous.  Receipts  are  here  given  for  ma- 
king imitation  liquors,  which  are  at  least 
as  wholesome  as  genuine  spirits,  and  contain 
no  ingredient  that  can  hurt  the  system  more 
than  alcohol  itself  does.  They  are  the  re- 
ceipts furnished  by  a  practical  French  chemist, 
who  has  made  this  business  a  specialty  for 
some  thirty  years. 

664.  Prune  Flavoring  for  Liquors. 
Mash  25  pounds  prunes,  infuse  for  15  days 
with  6  gallons  proof  spirit,  stirring  it  every 
day ;  press  and  filter. 

665.  Raisin  Flavoring  for  Liquors. 
Subject  25  pounds  mashed  raisins  to  the  same 
process  as  the  prunes  in  the  last  receipt. 

666.  St.  John's  Bread  Flavoring  for 
Liquors.     Cut  50  pounds  St.  John's  bread 
into  small  pieces.     Infuse  for  15  days  with  12 
gallons    proof    spirits,    stirring    every  day; 
filter. 

667.  Orange  Peel  Flavoring  for  Li- 
quors.    Steep  1  pound  orange  peel  in  1  gal- 
lon 95  per  cent,  alcohol  for  15  days  ;    filter. 

668.  Vanilla  Flavoring  for  Liquors. 
Slice  1  drachm  vanilla  in  small  pieces ;  infuse 
for  20  days  in  1  pint  95  per  cent,  alcohol; 
filter. 

669.  Orris  Boot  Flavoring  for  Li- 
quors.    Infuse  2  ounces  powdered  orris  root 
for  20  days,  in  1  quart  95  percent,  alcohol,  and 
filter. 

670.  Sassafras  Flavoring  for  Liquors. 
Granulate  ^  pound  sassafras  bark,  and  infuse 


it  in  J  gallon  95  per  cent,  alcohol  for  20  days ; 
filter. 

671.  Hickory  Nut  Flavoring  for  Li- 
quors.    Crush  1  bushel  hickory  nuts,  and  in- 
luse  for  1  month  in  12  gallons  95  per  cent.     * 
alcohol ;  strain  and  filter. 

672.  Flavoring  Compound  for  Bran- 
dy.    Mash    25    pounds    raisins,    12   pounds 
prunes,  6  pounds  figs,  and  1  pineapple  sliced ; 
infuse  for  15  days  in  20  gallons  proof  spirits, 
stirring  every  day,  and  then  filter. 

673^  Coffee  Flavoring  for  Liquors. 
Infuse  1  pound  ground  roasted  coffee  in  1  gal- 
lon 95  per  cent,  alcohol.  This  is  used  in  com- 
bination with  other  flavors  for  brandy. 

674.  Peach  Flavoring  for  Whiskey. 
Steep  for  1  month,  10  gallons  dried  peaches, 

10  gallons  oak  saw-dust,  and  5  pounds  black 
tea  in  40  gallons  proof  spirits ;   strain  and 
filter. 

675.  How   to   Prepare   Essence    of 
Cognac.     Take  1  ounce  oil  cognac — the  green 

011  is  the  best ;  put  it  in  £  gallon  95  per  cent, 
spirits.     Cork  it  up  tight,  shake  it  frequently 
for  about  3  days ;  then  add  2  ounces  strong 
ammonia.    Let  it  stand  3  days  longer ;  then 
place  in  a  stone  jar  that  will  contain  about  3 
gallons,   1  pound  fine  black  tea,   2  pounds 
prunes,  having  first  mashed  the  prunes  and 
broken  the  kernels.     Pour  on  them  1  gallon 
spirits  20  above  proof.     Cover  it  close,  and  let 
it  stand  8  days.     Filter  the  liquor,  and  mix 
with  that  containing  the  oil  and  ammonia. 
Bottle  it  for  use.     This  makes  the  best  flavor- 
ing known  for  manufacturing  brandies,  or  for 
flavoring  cordials,   syrups,   etc.     The  above 
proportion  should  flavor  100  gallons  brandy. 

676.  To   Imitate   Brandy  with    Es- 
sence of  Cognac.     Take  1  pint  essence  of 
cognac  (see  No.  675),  15  gallons  pure  spirits 
(very  fine)  20  per  cent,  above   proof,  £  pint 
plain  white  syrup.     Color  with  caramel. 

677.  Simple  Test  for  Alcohol  in  Oil 
of  Cognac.     Take  a  half  ounce  phial  or  test 
tube,  and  fill  it  exactly  half  full  of  oil  of  cog- 
nac; then  fill  up  the  remaining  space  with 
water,   and  shake  it  well.     The  alcohol,   if 
there  be  any  present,  having  a  much  greater 
affinity  for  water  than  for  the  oil,  will  leave 
the  oil  and  combine  with  the  water ;  denot- 
ing, by  the  decrease  in  the  bulk  of  the  oil.  or 
the  increase  in  that  of  the  water,  the  quantity 
of  alcohol  present.     Other  tests  for  essential 
oils  will  be  found  under  its  heading.     (See 
Index.) 

678.  Highly     Flavored     Domestic 
Brandy.     To  40  gallons  French  proof  spirits, 
add  2  quarts  raisin  flavoring  (sec  No.  665),  2 
quarts  prune  flavoring  (see  No.  664),  2  quarts 
St.  John's  bread  flavoring  (see  No.  666),  1 
gallon  best  sherry   wine,   2  drachms   oil  of 
cognac  and   20  drops  oil  of  bitter  almonds, 
both  dissolved  in  a  little  95  per  cent,  alcohol; 
1  gallon  Jamaica  rum  (or  J  ounce  Jamaica 
rum  essence),  and  2  pints  wine  vinegar.     Ten 
gallons  of  this  mixture,  mixed  with  30  gallons 
French   spirits,  make  .an  excellent    domestic 
brandy,  and  1  pound  of  glycerine  gives  it  age. 

679.  Imitation  Cognac  Brandy.     To 
36  gallons  French  proof  spirits,  add  4  gallons 
Pellevoisin  or  Marette  cognac,  £  gallon  best 
sherry  or  Madeira  wine,  and  20  drops  oil  of 
cognac,  dissolved  in  a  little  95  per  cent,  alco- 
hol.    Then  pour  2  quarts  boiling  water  over  2 


IMITATION    LIQUORS. 


ounces  black  tea;  when  cold,  filter  through 
flannel,  and  add  a  little  maraschino ;  mix  this 
with  the  other  ingredients,  and  color  the  whole 
to  suit,  with  caramel.  (See  No.  694.) 

Another  excellent  formula  is  as  follows : 
Dissolve  20  drops  oil  of  cognac  and  15  drops 
oil  of  bitter  almonds  in  a  little  95  per  cent, 
alcohol;  add  it  to  40  gallons  60  per  cent. 
French  spirit,  with  2  pints  tincture  of  raisin, 
2  pints  tincture  of  prunes,  3  pints  best  Jamai- 
ca rum,  3  pints.best  sherry  wine,  and  £  ounce 
acetic  ether.  Color  with  caramel. 

680.  Imitation  Brandy.     Take  40  gal- 
lons French  spirit;  add  to  it  1  pint  tincture  of 
raisins  (see  No.  665),  1  quart  prune  flavoring 
(see  No.  664),  i  gallon  best  sherry  or  Madeira 
wine,  and  1  pint  wine  vinegar.    Then  add  1 
drachm  oil  of  cognac,  12  drops  oil  of  bitter 
almonds,  i  to  ^  drachm  tannin  powder,  each 
dissolved  separately  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol. 
Color  to  suit  with  caramel.     (See  No.  694.) 

681.  Imitation  French  Brandy.    To 
40  gallons    French  proof  spirit,  add  1  quart 
tincture  of  orris  root  (see  No.  669),   1  pint 
vanilla  flavoring  (see  No.  668),  ^  gallon  best 
sherry  or  Madeira  wine,  and  1  pint  wine  vin- 
egar.    Dissolve  separately,   1  drachm  oil  of 
cognac  and  12  drops  oil  of  bitter  almonds, 
each  in  a  little  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  add 
them  to  the  mixture,  coloring  the  whole  to 
suit  with  caramel.     (See  No.  694.) 

682.  Imitation  Pale  Brandy.    Infuse 
1  drachm  star-anise  (breaking  the  star  only) 
for  8  hours  in  £  pint  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  and 
filter;    add  this   to  40  gallons  proof  spirits; 
then  add  £  gallon  best  Jamaica  rum,  and  1 
pint  of  the  best  raspberry  syrup.     Dissolve  1 
drachm  oil  of  cognac,  and  12  drops  oil  of  bit- 
ter almonds,  separately,  in  a  little  95  per  cent, 
alcohol,  and  mix  them  with  the  whole. 

683.  Imitation   Bourbon  Whiskey. 
Mix  together  40  gallons  proof  spirits,  £  gallon 
peach  flavoring  (see  No.  674),  ^  gallon  hicko- 
ry nut  flavoring  (see  No.  671),  |  gallon  highly 
flavored  brandy  (see  No,  678),   1  pint  wine 
vinegar,  and  1  pint  white  glycerine.    Add  to 
these  12  drops  oil  of  cognac  dissolved  in  95 
per  cent,   alcohol,   and  color  with  caramel. 
(See  No.  694.) 

Or :  36  gallons  proof  spirits,  4  gallons  high- 
ly flavored  proof  rye  whiskey,  1  gallon  do- 
mestic brandy  (see  No.  680),  together  with  the 
same  proportions  of  vinegar,  glycerine,  and 
oil  of  cognac,  as  before. 

684.  Imitation   Bourbon   Whiskey. 
To   36   gallons  proof  spirits,   add  4   gallons 
highly  flavored  proof  Bourbon,  1  gallon  N"ew 
England  rum,  £  gallon  sweet  Catawba  wine 
(or  1  quart  sherry  wine),  and  1  pound  white 
glycerine.     Color  to  suit  with  caramel.     (See 
No.  694.) 

685.  Imitation    Bourbon    Whiskey. 
36  gallons  proof  spirit,  4  gallons  highly  fla- 
vored proof  Bourbon,  1  gallon  malt  whiskey, 
1   pint  wine   vinegar,    1  pint  syrup,  and  12 
drops  oil  of  cognac  dissolved  in  95  per  cent, 
alcohol.     Color  with  caramel.     (See  No.  694.) 

686.  Imitation    Bourbon   Whiskey. 
To  40  gallons  proof  spirit,  add  1  gallon  hick- 
ory flavor  (see  No.  671),   1   gallon  domestic 
brandy   (see  No.  680),   1  pint  wine  vinegar, 
and  1  pound  white  glycerine,  with   12  drops 
oil  of  cognac  dissolved  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol, 
and  caramel  (see  No.  694)  sufficient  to  color. 


687.  Imitation  Copper  -  Distilled 
Bourbon  Whiskey.  Dissolve  1  drachm 
sulphate  of  copper  in  |  pint  water,  filter,  and 
add  it  to  40  gallons  proof  spirit,  with  1  gal- 
lon peach  flavor  (see  No.  674),  1  gallon 
brandy  flavor  (see  No.  672),  1  pint  wine  vine- 
gar, 1  pound  white  glycerine,  and  12  drops 
oil  of  cognac  dissolved  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol. 
Color  with  caramel.  (See  No.  694.) 

688.  Imitation  Bye  Whiskey.    To  40 
gallons  proof  spirit,  add  2  gallons  peach  fla- 
voring (See  No.  674),  1  pint  white  vinegar, 
and  12  drops  oil  of  cognac  in  95  per  cent, 
alcohol.     Color  with  caramel.     (See  No.  694.) 

689.  Imitation  Sweet  Bye  Whiskey. 
30  gallons  proof  spirit,  10  gallons  proof  rye 
whiskey,  and  1  gallon  raisin  flavor  (see  No. 
665),  colored  with  sufficient  caramel.     (See 
No.  694). 

690.  Imitation   Irish    Whiskey.    36 
gallons  French  spirits  20  above  proof,  4  gal- 
lons Scotch  (Ramsay)  whiskey,  3  pints  best 
sherry  wine,  2  pints  syrup,  and  10  drops  sas- 
safras flavor.     (See  No.  670.) 

691.  Imitation  Scotch  Whiskey.    36 
gallons  French  spirits  20  above  proof.  4  gal- 
lons Scotch  whiskey,  and  1  quart  syrup. 

692.  To  Impart  a  Smoky  flavor  to 
Whiskey.     The  simplest  way  to  impart  this 
peculiar  flavor  to  whiskey  is  by  preparing  the 
barrel.     Insert   securely  a  large  sheet-iron 
funnel  into  the  bung-hole  of  a  dry  40-gallon 
barrel ;  provide  a  small  open  furnace,  contain- 
ing a  charcoal  fire ;  put  1  pound  of  birch  bark 
on  the  fire,  and  support  the  barrel,  with  its 
funnel  downwards,  over  the  furnace,  so  that 
the  funnel,  which  should  be  considerably  wider 
than  the  furnace,  will  receive  the  smoke  from 
the  bark.     When  the  bark  ceases  smoking, 
remove  the  funnel  and  bung  the  barrel  up 
tight.     After  it  has  stood  24  hours,  put  the 
spirit  in  the  barrel,  and  keep  it  there  for  36 
hours,  frequently  rolling  the  barrel,  in  order 
that  the  spirits  may  be  thoroughly  impreg- 
nated with  the  smoke  and  smoky  deposit  on 
the  inside  of  the  barrel.    The  spirits  will  then 
be  found  to  have  acquired  the  desired  flavor. 
Creosote,  diluted  with  alcohol,  is  sometimes 
used  to  impart  the  smoky  flavor  to  spirits. 

693.  To  Give  the  Appearance  of  Age 
to  Brandy  Barrels.     Dissolve  in  3  gallons 
water,  3  pounds  sulphuric  acid  and  1  pound 
sulphate  of  iron.     Wash  the  barrels  with  it 
on  the  outside. 

694.  To   Make  Caramel.    Dissolve  7 
pounds  crushed  sugar  in  1  pint  water ;  boil  it 
in  a  5-gallon  copper  kettle,  stirring  occasion- 
ally until  it  gets  brown ;  then  reduce  the  fire 
and  let  the  sugar  burn  until  the  smoke  makes 
the  eyes  water.    "When  a  few  drops,  let  fall 
into  a  tumbler  of  cold  water,  sink  to  the  bottom 
and  harden  sufficiently  to  crack,  it  is  done. 
Then  pour  on  it,  by  degrees,  about  2  quarts 
warm  water,  stirring  all  the  time.    When  well 
mixed,  filter  it  hot  through  a  coarse  flannel 
filter.     Some  use  lime-water  to  dissolve  the 
burnt  sugar.     Care  must  be  taken  not  to  over- 
burn  it,  as  a  greater  quantity  is  thereby  ren- 
dered insoluble.    The  heat  should  not  exceed 
430°,  nor  be  under  400°  Fahr.   The  process  for 
nice  experiments  is  best  conducted  in  a  bath 
of  melted  tin,  to  which  a  little  bismuth  has 
been  added,  to  reduce  its  melting  point  to 
about  435° ;  a  little  powdered  resin  or  char- 


IMITATION    LIQUORS. 


coal,  or  a  little  oil,  being  put  upon  the  surface 
of  the  metal,  to  prevent  oxidation. 

695.  To  Plaster  Brandy  Pipes.    First 
notch  over  the  bottom  of  the  casks  with  a 
hatchet  or  adze ;  then,  for  the  bottom  of  a  £ 
pipe  mix  £  gallon  plaster  with  1  gallon  water, 
and  pour  it  on;  while  the  plaster  is  setting, 
tap  the  cask  gently  with  a  mallet,  in  order 
that  the  plaster  may  penetrate  into  every 
crevice.     When  the  plaster  is  fully  set,  wash 
it  over  with  a  wet  sponge.     If  you  wish  to 
color  the  plaster,  add  a  little  Venice  red. 

696.  Wax  Putty  for  Leaky  Casks, 
Bungs,  &c.     Melt  8  pounds  yellow  wax  and 
12  pounds  solid  turpentine  over  a  slow  fire; 
add  4  pounds  tallow ;   and,  when  thoroughly 
mixed,  remove  the  whole  to  a  distance  from 
the  fire  and  stir  in  2  pounds  spirits  of  turpen- 
tine, and  let  it  cool. 

697.  Imitation    Schiedam  Gin.    Dis- 
solve 3^  drachms  oil  of  juniper  in  sufficient 
95  per  cent,  alcohol  to  make  a  clear  liquid ; 
add  it  to  40  gallons  French  spirits  10  above 
proof,  with  8  ounces  orange  peel  flavoring 
(see  No.  667),  1  quart  syrup,  and  30  drops  oil 
of  sweet  fennel. 

698.  Imitation  Old  Tom  London  Gin. 
Dissolve  in  1  quart  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  1 
drachm  oil  of  coriander,  1  drachm  oil  of  cedar, 
•J  drachm  oil  of  bitter  almonds,  ^  drachm  oil 
of  angelica,  and  £  drachm  oil  of  sweet  fennel ; 
add  it  to  40  gallons  French  spirit  10  above 
proof,  with  1  pint  orange-flower  water,  1  quart 
syrup,  and  1  drachm  oil  of  juniper  dissolved  in 
sufficient  95  per  cent,  alcohol  to  be  clear. 

699.  Imitation  Santa  Cruz  Rum.    35 
gallons  New  England  rum,  5  gallons  Santa 
Cruz  rum,  and   1    drachm  vanilla  flavoring. 
(See  No.  668.) 

700.  Imitation  Batavia  Arrack.    35 
gallons  French  spirit  (rice  spirit  is  preferable), 
5  gallons  Batavia  arrack,  ^  ounce  balsam  of 
tolu,  and  \  ounce  tincture  of  flowers  of  ben- 
zoin. 

701.  Imitation  Batavia  Arrack.    To 
12  gallons  pale  rum  add  2  ounces  flowers  of 
benzoin,  1-J-  ounces  balsam  of  tolu,  1  sliced 
pineapple.      Digest  with  occasional  agitation 
for  a  month;   then  add    |   pint  raw  milk. 
Agitate  well  for  15  minutes,  and  rack  in  a 
week.    A  fine  imitation. 

702.  Imitation   Jamaica   Bum.     20 
gallons  spirit  10  above  proof,  20  gallons  New 
England  rum   10  above   proof,  \  pound  Ja- 
maica rum  essence,  1  gallon  St.  John's  bread 
flavoring  (see  No.  666),  and  1  pound  white 
glycerine.     Color  to  suit  with  caramel.     (See 
.Ac.   694.)     Or: — 40  gallons   spirit  10   above 
proof,  1  pound  Jamaica  rum  essence,  10  drops 
oil  of  cloves,  1  gallon  St.  John's  bread  flavor- 
ing (see  No.  666),  and  1  pound  white  glycerine. 
If  desired,  there  may  be  added  1  ounce  gum 
kino  and  i  drachm  oil  of  caraway,  each  dis- 
solved in  2  ounces  95  per  cent,  alcohol. 

703.  To  Make  Spirit  Finings.     Pul- 
verize  1   pound  ordinary  crystals  of   alum, 
divide  into  12  equal  portions,  and  put  up  in 
blue  papers  marked  No  1.    Next  take  6  ounces 
carbonate  (the  ordinary  sesquicarbonate)  of 
soda,  divide  it  into  12  parts  and  put  them  up 
in  white  papers  marked  No.  2.    In  place  of 
the  6  ounces  carbonate  of  soda,  4  ounces  dry 
salt  of  tartar  may  be  substituted,  but  the 
white  papers  containing  this  latter  substance 


must  be  kept  in  a  dry,  well  corked  bottle  or 
jar. 

704.  To  Clarify  Gin  or  Cordials.    To 

clarify  from  30  to  3d  gallons  gin,  dissolve  the 
contents  of  one  of  the  blue  papers,  as  prepared 
in  No  703.  in  about  a  pint  of  hot  water,  and 
stir  it  into  the  liquor  thoroughly.  Then  dis- 
solve the  contents  of  one  of  the  white  papers 
in  about  -J-  pint  hot  water,  and  stir  well  into 
the  liquor ;  bung  the  cask  close,  and  let  the 
whole  remain  till  the  next  day. 

705.  To  Blanch  Gin  or*  other  White 
Liquor.     By  using  double  the  quantity  of 
finings,  that  is,  2  of  each  of  the  powders,  as 
laid  down  in  the  foregoing  receipt,  the  liquor 
will  be  blanched  as  well  as  clarified.     It  is 
well  to  recollect,  however,  that  the  more  fin- 
ings are  employed,  the  greater  the  risk  of  in- 
juring the  liquor,  which  may  have  a  tendency 
to  become  flat  when  ''on  draught." 

706.  Finings  for  Gin.     To  100  gallons 
gin,  take  4  ounces  roche  alum,  and  put  it  into 
1  pint  of  pure  water ;   boil  it  until  it  is  dis- 
solved, then  gradually  add  4  ounces  salts  of 
tartar ;  when  nearly  cold  put  it  into  the  gin, 
and  stir  it  well  with  a  staff  for  10  minutes. 
The  liquor  must  not  be  covered  until  it  is 
fine;  when  this  is  accomplished,  cover  it  up 
tight  to  prevent  it  from  losing  its  strength. 

707.  To  Remove  the  Blackness  from 
Gin.     Some  gin  has  a  particular  blackness ; 
to  remove  which,  take  1  ounce  pulverized 
chalk  and  2  or  3  ounces  isinglass,  dissolved ; 
put  this  into  the  gin  and  it  will  become  trans- 
parent.    The  above  is  enough  for  50  gallons. 
The  blackness  which  gin  sometimes  contracts 
by  coming  in  contact  with  iron,  may  also  be 
carried  down  by  putting  a  solution  of  2  ounces 
isinglass  and  1  quart  skimmed  milk  into  the 
spirit.     "When   the  color  is  very  black,  which 
will  happen  by  merely,  an  iron  nail   having 
fallen  into  the  liquor,  there  is  no  remedy  but 
to  have  the  liquor  distilled  over  again. 

708.  To  Clarify  Stained  Gin.     When 
gin  has  once  become  much  stained,  the  only 
remedy  is  to  re-distill  it;    when  it  is   only 
slightly  stained  the  addition  of  a  few  pounds 
acetic  acid  to  a  pipe  or  butt,  1  or  2  spoonfuls 
to  a  gallon,  or  a  few  drops  to  a  decanterful, 
will  usually  decolor  it. 

709.  Brandy  Filter.     When  necessary 
to    filter  an  imitation  brandy,  an   excellent 
utensil  may  be  used  for  that  purpose  which 
has  already  been  described.     (See  No.  17,  fig. 
5.)    It  will,  however,  be  necessary  to  substi- 
tute cotton  wadding  in  place  of  the  charcoal. 

710.  To  Make  Rum  Punch.     Dissolve 
in  1  piut*95  per  cent,  alcohol,  3  drachms  oil  of 
lemon,  and  •£  drachm  oil  of  cloves  ;   infuse  3 
ounces  ground  allspice  for  10  days  in  1  quart 
95  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  filter  it.     Mix  these 
with  18  gallons  spirit  30  above  proof,  2  gal- 
lons Jamaica  rum,  and  1  pound  Jamaica  rum 
essence  (or  20  gallons  New  England  rum  30 
over  proof  and  £  pound  Jamaica  rum  essence). 
Next  add  2£  pounds  tartaric  acid  dissolved  in 
2|  gallons  water,  and  18  gallons  syrup  made 
of  108  pounds  white'  sugar.     Color  with  cara- 
mel.    (See  No.  694.) 

711.  To  Make  Wine    Punch.      Dis- 
solve 2i  drachms  oil  of  lemons  and  £  drachm 
oil  of  cloves  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol;  make  an 
infusion  of  3  ounces  ground  allspice,  as  in  last 
receipt;  add  these  to  10  gallons  proof  spirit, 


CHAMPAGNE. 


S3 


10  gallons  Marsala  or  Catalonia  wine,  10  gal- 
lons syrup  made  of  35  pounds  white  sugar, 
and  ^  pound  tartaric  acid.  If  not  red  enough, 
add  a  little  cherry  juice.  Filter. 

712.  'To  Make  Wine  Punch.  To  10 
gallons  proof  spirit,  add  10  gallons  Marsala 
or  Catalonia  wine.  Take  10  gallons  syrup 
made  of  35  pounds  sugar ;  peel  the  rind,  thinly, 
of  1.20  lemons ;  bring  the  syrup  to  a  boil,  anJ 
simmer  the  lemon  rinds  in  it  for  •£  hour  or 
more,  then  strain  it  -through  a  fine  flannel. 
Mix  all  the  above  with  the  juice  of  the  lemons. 
Instead  of  boiling  the  lemon  peel  in  the  syrup, 
it  may  be  infused  for  5  or  G  days  in  95  per 
cent,  alcohol.  The  color  can  be  deepened 
with  cherry  juice.  Brandy,  rum,  whiskey  and 
arrack  punch  may  be  made  as  above,  substi- 
tuting the  liquor  for  the  wine  and  spirits. 


The  process  of  ma- 
V- ^king  America:!  and  imitation  French 
champagne  is  one  requiring  great  care,  espe- 
cially in  producing  a  not  only  clear,  but 
bright  wine.  Full  directions  are  given  below 
for  making  the  necessary  syrup,  mixing  the 
ingredients,  fining,  filtering  and  gassing ;  in- 
cluding a  number  of  receipts  for  different 
kinds  of  champagne.  A  careful  attention  to 
tho  instructions  laid  down  will  produce  wines 
which  will  compare  favorably  with  the  best 
gsnuine  importations. 

714.  To  Make  a  Filter  for  Filtering 
Wines.     A  filter  for  wines  is  usually  made 
of  fait,  shaped  like  a  cone  or  sugar  loaf;  those 
without  any  seam  are  the  best.     A  lining  of 
paper  pulp  is  prepared  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  Tear  from  2  to  4  sheets  filtering  paper 
into  small  pieces  and  put  it  into  a  pail ;  pour 
over  it  a  little  boiling  water,  sufficient,  by 
thorough  beating,  to  form    a   fine    smooth 
paste;   then  add  sufficient  water  to  fill  the 
filter.     Pour  this  quickly  into  the  filter,  and, 
5  minutes  after  the  water  has  drained  through, 
fill  up  with  the  wine  to  be  filtered,  taking 
care  to  keep  tli3  filter  always  full. 

715.  To  Make  Syrup  for  Champagne 
Wine.     To  25  pounds  white   sugar,  add  2 
gallon ;  water  and  the  whites  of  4  eggs ;    stir 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.     Let  the  whole 
simmer  to  the  candy  degree;   then  strain  it 
thr'mcch  a  bag  made  of  fine  flannel. 

716.  To  Prepare  Isinglass  for  Fin- 
ing Wines.     Cut  up  some  isinglass  (it  must 
bo  of  the  very  best  quality),  and  put  it  in  a  jar, 
with  just  enough  wine  or  water  to  cover  it; 
add  daily  as  much  of  the  wine  or  water  as  has 
beon  absorbed  by  the  isinglass.      In  6  or  8 
days  it  should  be  completely  dissolved,  form- 
ing a  thick  fluid  mass.     Squeeze  it  through  a 
linen  cloth  and  put  it  into  a  bottle,  adding  4 
or  5  per  cent,  of  95  per  cent,  alcohol  to  make 
it  keep.     For  40   gallons  wine  to  be  fined, 
take  1  wine-glassful  of  dissolved  isinglass,  add 
a  little  wine  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  beat  to  a 
froth  with  a  whisk,  adding  by  degrees  suffi- 
cient wine  to  make  the  mixture  up  to  £  gal- 
lon.    When  foaming,  pour  it  slowly  into  the 
wine,  stirring  till  all  the  fining  is  incorporated 
with  the  wine.     Isinglass  thus  prepared  and 
used  will  precipitate  completely ;  and,  after  a 
few  days,  the  wine  will  be  bright.     Too  much 
care  cannot  be  taken  in   the  preparation  of 


fining,  as  even  the  finest  isinglass  contains 
fibrous  matter  which  dissolves  with  difficulty ; 
this  is  very  apt  to  remain  suspended  in  the 
wine,  and  is  not  visible  until  developed,  after 
bottling,  by  the  gas  with  which  the  wine  is 
afterwards  charged. 

717.  To  Prepare  Champagne  Wine 
for  Charging.     Put  the  wine  used  to  make 
the  champagne  into  a  cask,  add  the  brandy 
spirit,  the  aroma  or  flavoring,  and  the  syrup, 
and  stir  for  10  minutes.    Every  day  for  4  days 
draw  off  15  or  20  gallons  of  the  mixture  and 
pour  it  in  again;  let  it  rest  4  days  more,  then 
add  the  fining,  stir  for  10  minutes,  and  bung 
up  the  cask.    In  3  or  4  days,  if  bright,  draw 
off  slowly,  so  as  not  to  disturb  the   lees. 
Filter  (sec  No.  714),  and  it  is  ready  for  the 
fountain  of  the  gassing  apparatus. 

718.  To   Charge   Champagne   with 
Gas.     Matthews'  apparatus  is  the  one  usually 
adopted  in  the  United  States  for  generating 
the  gas  and  charging  champagne  wine.     The 
fountains,  tubes,  and  valves  are  silver-lined, 
and  the  machines  are  adapted  for  pint  and 
quart   bottles.    The    following   is  a   proper 
charge  for  a  No.  2  apparatus  with  2  fountains : 
Charge  the  generator  with  9  gallons  water,  6 
gallons  ground  marble,  and  3  gallons  sulphuric 
acid  ;  put  2  gallons  water  in  the  gas  washer, 
and  20  gallons  wine  in  each  of  the  fountains. 
For  a  warm  climate,  a  pressure  of  70  pounds 
to  tho  square  inch  is  sufficient.     When  the 
wine  is  made  in  winter  for  immediate  sale, 
the  pressure  may  be  increased  to  80  pounds. 
Genuine  champagne  has  an  average  pressure 
of  50  pounds. 

719.  Catawba  Champagne.    Take  40 
gallons  Catawba  Avine;   -J-  gallon  old  cognac 
brandy ;    and  4  gallons  syrup  made  of  30 
pounds  sugar  and  2  gallons  water  according 
to  No.  715 ; — or,  38  gallons  Catawba  wine ;  2 
gallons  Angelica  wine,  and  4  gallons  syrup  as 
above.    A  very  little  tincture  vanilla  added 
to  either  of  these  makes  a  fine  bouquet. 

720.  California  Champagne.     40  gal- 
lons California  wine ;  1  quart  raspberry  syrup 
(see  No.  1372);    4  gallons  syrup  made  of  25 
pounds  sugar  and  2  gallons  water  (see  No. 
715);    and  4  gallons  water.     Or:  20  gallons 
California  wine ;  20  gallons  Sauterne  or  white 
Bordeaux  wine  ;  •£  gallon  old  cognac  brandy ; 
with  4  gallons  syrup  as  before.     Add  to  these 
10  per  cent,  of  water. 

721.  Scuppernong  Champagne.    40 
gallons  Scuppernong  wine ;  £  gallon  old  cog- 
nac brandy ;  and  3  gallons  syrup  made  of  20 
pounds  sugar  (see  No.  715)  and  2  gallons 
water. 

722.  Imitation  French  Champagne. 
40   gallons  white  Bordeaux  wine;    1  gallon 
muscat  wine;    $  gallon  old  cognac  brandy; 
and  4  gallons  syrup  made  of  25  pounds  sugar 
and  2  gallons  water.     (See  No.  715).    In  this 
receipt  a  little  tincture  of  vanilla,  or  a  small 
jottle  of  bouquet  venatique,  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  the  muscat  wine.      They  may  bo 
omitted  altogether  if  aroma  is  not  desired. 

723.  Cheap   Champagne.     13  gallons 
alifornia  wine  ;    13  gallons  white  Bordeaux 

wine ;  13  gallons  water ;  1  gallon  95  percent. 
French  spirit;  1  quart  raspberry  syrup  (see 
No.  1372) ;  and  4  gallons  symp  made  of  25 
rounds  sugar  and  2  gallons  water.  (See  No. 
715.)  Or :  20  gallons  Catawba  wine;  20  gal- 


HOME-MADE     WINES. 


Ions  water ;  2  gallons  Angelica  wine ;  2  gallons 
95  per  cent.  French  spirit,  and  4  gallons 
syrup  as  before. 

724.  Cheap  Champagne.     20  gallons 
white  Bordeaux  wine ;  20  gallons  German  or 
Hungarian  wine ;  20  gallons  water ;  2  gallons 
95  per  cent.   French  spirit;    and  6  gallons 
syrup  made  of  35  pounds  sugar  and  3  gallons 
water.     (See  No.  715.) 

725.  The  Use  of  Glycerine  in  Wine. 
Glycerine  differs  from  sugar  in  not  fermenting 
or  taking  any  active  part  in  the  process  of 
fermentation.    It  can,  therefore,  be  made  use 
of  alter  fermentation,  to  impart  any  required 
degree  of  sweetness  to  wine,  without  the  risk 
of  further  fermentation,  as  is  the  case  with 
sugar  when  used  for  this  purpose ;  it  is  said 
that  it  can  be  added  with  perfect  safety  to 
even  a  young  or  new  wine,  as  soon  as  it  has 
become  clear.     It  is  absolutely  necessary  that 
the  glycerine  should  be  chemically  pure ;  care 
is  consequently  to  be  taken  in  purchasing  it, 
as  there  are  few  articles  in  the  market  which 
are  liable  to  contain  so  many  impurities.    (See 
No.     1151.)      The    proportion    of    glycerine 
should  be  from  1  to  3  gallons  for  100  gallons 
of  wine,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  latter. 
If  the  wine  is  perfectly  clear  before  adding 
the  glycerine  it  will  be  ready  for  bottling  at 
once.     It  is  best  to  mix  the  glycerine  first 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  the  wine,  and  then 
add  the  mixture  to  the  remainder    of  the 
wine. 

726.  Electricity  as  an  Agent  for  im- 
proving Whiskey  and  Wines.     From  ex- 
periments made  on  a  large  scale,  it  has  been 
found  that  electricity  in  any  form,  either  as  a 
regular  current  or  a  succession  of  discharges, 
renders  wine  or  whiskey  mellow  and  mature. 
It  is  supposed  that  the  bitartrate  of  potassa  is 
decomposed,  setting  free  potash  and  tartaric 
acid :   the  former  tending  to  neutralize  the 
acids  of  the  wine ;  and  the  tartaric  acid,  react- 
ing upon  the  fatty  matters  present,  favors  the 
formation  of  the  ethers  which  constitute  the 
bouquet  of  the  wine.    It  is  probable,  also, 
that  a  small  quantity  of  the  water  is  decom- 
posed, setting  free  oxygen,  which  forms,  with 
some  of  the  constituents  of  the  wine,  new 
compounds  peculiar  to  old  wines.     (See  No. 
6295.) 


Home-Made  Wines.  The 
various  processes  in  domestic  wine- 
making  resemble  those  employed  for  foreign 
wine,  and  depend  upon  the  same  principles. 
The  fruit  should  be  preferably  gathered  in  fine 
weather,  and  not  till  it  has  arrived  at  a  proper 
state  of  maturity,  as  evinced  by  its  flavor 
when  tasted ;  for  if  it  be  employed  while  un- 
ripe, the  wine  will  be  harsh,  disagreeable, 
and  unwholesome,  and  a  larger  quantity  of 
sugar  and  spirit  will  be  required  to  render  it 
palatable.  The  common  practice  of  employ- 
ing unripe  gooseberries  for  the  manufacture  of 
wine  arises  from  a  total  ignorance  of  the 
scientific  principles  of  wine-making.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  fruit  be  employed  too  ripe,  the 
wine  is  apt  to  be  inferior,  and  deficient  in  the 
flavor  of  the  fruit.  The  fruit  being  gathered, 
it  next  undergoes  the  operation  of  picking, 
for  the  purpose  of  removing  the  stalks  and 


unripe  or  damaged  portion.  It  is  next  placed 
in  a  tub,  and  well  bruised.  Eaisins  are 
commonly  permitted  to  soak  about  24  hours 
previously  to  bruising  them,  or  they  may  be 
advantageously  bruised  or  minced  in  the  dry 
state.  The  bruised  fruit  is  then  put  into  a 
vat  or  vessel  with  a  guard  or  strainer  placed 
over  the  tap-hole,  to  keep  back  the  husks  and  ' 
seeds  of  the  fruit  when  the  must  or  juice  is  j 
drawn  off.  The  water  is  now  added,  and  the 
whole  macerated  for  30  or  40  hours,  more  or 
less;  during  which  time  it  is  frequently  stirred 
up  with  a  suitable  wooden  stirrer.  The  liquid 
portion  is  next  drawn  off,  and  the  residua- 
ry pulp  is  placed  in  hair  bags  and  undergoes 
the  operation  of  pressing,  to  expel  the  fluid 
it  contains.  The  sugar,  tartar,  &c.  (in  very  fine 
powder,  or  in  solution),  are  now  added  to  the 
mixed  liquor,  and  the  whole  is  well  stirred. 
The  temperature  being  suitable  (generally 
from  75°  to  85°  Fahr.),  the  vinous  fermenta- 
tion soon  commences,  when  the  liquor  is  fre- 
quently skimmed  (if  necessary)  and  well 
stirred  up,  and,  after  3  or  4  days  of  this  treat- 
ment, it  is  run  into  casks,  which  should  be 
quite  filled,  and  left  open  at  the  bung-hole. 
In  about  a  week  the  flavoring  ingredients,  in 
the  state  of  coarse  powder,  are  commonly 
added,  and  well  stirred  in,  and  in  about 
another  week,  depending  upon  the  state  of 
the  fermentation  and  the  attenuation  of  the 
must,  the  brandy  or  spirit  is  added,  and  the 
cask  filled  up,  and  bunged  down  close.  In  4 
or  5  weeks  more  the  cask  is  again  filled  up, 
and,  after  some  weeks — the  longer  the  better — 
it  is  "  pegged  "  or  "  spiled,"  to  ascertain  if  it 
be  fine  or  transparent ;  if  so,  it  undergoes  the 
operation  of  racking ;  but  if,  on  the  contrary, 
it  still  continues  muddy,  it  must  previously 
pass  through  the  process  of  fining.  Its  future 
treatment  is  similar  to  that  of  foreign  wine. 
The  must  of  many  of  the  strong-flavored 
fruits,  as  black  currants,  for  instance,  is  im- 
proved by  being  boiled  before  being  made  into 
wine ;  but  the  flavor  and  bouquet  of  the  more 
delicate  fruits  are  diminished,  if  not  destroyed, 
by  boiling. 

728.  General  Receipt  for  the  Prep- 
aration of  Home-Made  Wine  from  Ripe 
Saccharine  Fruits.  I.  Ripe  fruit,  4  pounds ; 
clear  soft  water,  1  gallon ;  sugar,  3  pounds ; 
cream  of  tartar,  dissolved  in  boiling  water,  lj 
ounces ;  brandy,  2  to  3  per  cent.  Flavoring 
as  required.  Makes  a"  good  family  wine. 
II.  As  the  last,  using  1  pound  more  each  of 
fruit  and  sugar.  A  superior  wine. 

III.  As  the  first,  adding  2  pounds  each  fruit 
and  sugar.  Yery  strong.  Is  good  without 
brandy,  but  better  with  it.  1|  pounds  of 
raisins  may  be  substituted  for  each  pound  of 
sugar  above.  In  the  above  way  may  be  made 
the  following  wines : — gooseberry  wine,  cur- 
rant wine  (red,  white  or  black) ;  mixed  fruit 
wine  (currants  and  gooseberries;  or  black, 
red,  and  white  currants,  ripe  black-heart  cher- 
ries, and  raspberries,  equal  parts).  This  is  a 
good  family  wine.  Cherry  wine ;  Colepress's 
wine,  (from  apples  and  mulberries,  equal 
parts)  ;  elder  wine  ;  strawberry  wine  ;  rasp- 
berry wine ;  mulberry  wine  (when  flavored 
makes  port) ;  whortleberry  (sometimes  ca!>d 
huckleberry)  wine;  makes  a  good  factious 
port ;  blackberry  wine ;  morella  wine ;  npricot 
wine;  apple  wine-  grape  wine,  <fcc. 


HOME-MADE     WINES. 


85 


729.  General    Receipt    for    Making 
Wine    from     Dry     Saccharine     Fruit 
I.   Dry  fruit,  4£  pounds;    soft  water,  1  ga) 
Ion;   cream  of  tartar  (dissolved),  1  pound 
brandy,  1£  to  2  per  cent.,  weak. 

II.  As  the  last,  but  using  5£  pounds  driei 
fruit.     A  superior  family  wine. 

III.  As  the  last,  *t\  pounds  fruit,  and  bran 
dy  3  per  cent.     A  strong  wine.     Should  th 
dried  fruit  employed  be   at  all  deficient  in 
saccharine  matter,    1   to   3  pounds  may   b 
omitted,  and  half  that  quantity  of  sugar,  o 
two  thirds  of  raisins,  added.     In  the  abov 
manner  may  be  made  raisin  wine,  fig  wine,  <fec 

730.  Imitation   Champagne.     Stonec 
raitins,  7  pounds ;  loaf  sugar,  21  pounds ;  water 
9  gallons ;  crystallized  tartaric  acid,  1  ounce 
honey,  \  pound ;  ferment  with  sweet  yeast  '. 
pound  or  less  ;  skim  frequently,  and  when  th 
fermentation  is  nearly  over,  add  coarse-pow 
dered  orris  root,  1  drachm,  and  eau  de  fleun 
d'orange,  3  ounces ;  lemon  juice,  J  pint.    Rack 
it,  bung  close,  and  in  3  months  fine  it  down 
with  isinglass,  -J-  ounce;  in  1  month  more,  i 
not  sparkling,  again  fine  it  down,  and  in  2 
weeks  bottle  it,  observing  to  put  a  piece  o: 
double-refined  sugar,  the  size  of  a  pea,  into 
each  bottle.     Tho  bottles  should  be  wired,  anc 
the  corks  covered  with  tin  foil. 

731.  To  Make  Blackberry  Wine.     To 
make  10  gallons  of  this  cheap  and  excellent 
wine,  press  the  juice  out  of  sufficient  fresh 
ripe  blackberries  to  make  4£  gallons ;  wash 
tho  pomace  in  4J-  gallons  soft  spring  water, 
and  thoroughly  dissolve  in  it  6  pounds  white 
sugar  to  each  gallon  of  water  (brown  sugai 
will  do  for  an  inferior  wine) ;  strain  the  juice 
into  this  syrup,  and  mix  them.     Fill  a  cask 
with  it  perfectly  full,  and  lay  a  cloth  loosely 
over  the  bung-hole,  placing  the  cask  where  it 
will  be   perfectly    undisturbed.     In    two    or 
three  days  fermentation  will  commence,  and 
the  impurities  run  over  at  the  bung.    Look  at 
it  every  day,  and  if  it  does  not  run  over,  with 
some  of  the  mixture  which  you  have  reserved 
in  another  vessel  fill  it  up  to  the  bung.    In 
about  three  weeks,  fermentation  will  have 
ceased,  and  the  wine  be  still ;   fill  it  again, 
drive  in  the  bung  tight,  nail  a  tin  over  it,  and 
let  it  remain  undisturbed  until  the  following 
March.     Then  draw  it  off,  without  shaking 
the  cask,  put  it  into  bottles,  cork  tightly  and 
seal  over.     Some  persons  add  spirit  to  the 
wine,  but  instead  of  doing  good,  it  is  only  an 
injury.     The    more    carefully    the   juice    is 
strained,  the  better  the  quality  of  the  sugar, 
and  the  more  scrupulously  clean  the  utensils 
and  casks,  the  purer  and  better  will  be  the 
wine. 

732.  Cider  Wine.  Let  the  new  cider 
from  sour  apples  (ripe,  sound  fruit  preferred), 
ferment  from  1  to  3  weeks,  as  the  weather  is 
warm  or  cool.  "WTien  it  has  attained  to  a 
lively  fermentation,  add  to  each  gallon,  accord- 
ing to  its  acidity,  from  i  to  2  pounds  white 
crushed  sugar,  and  let  the  whole  ferment  until 
it  possesses  precisely  the  taste  which  it  is 
desired  should  be  permanent.  In  this  condi- 
tion pour  out  a  quart  of  the  cider  and  add  for 
each  gallon  J  ounce  of  sulphite  (not  sulphate) 
of  lime.  Stir  the  powder  and  cider  until  inti- 
mately mixed,  and  return  the  emulsion  to  the 
fermenting  liquid.  Agitate  briskly  and  thor- 
oughly for  a  tew  moments,  and  then  let  the 


cider 


settle.  Fermentation  will  cease  at 
once.  When,  after  a  few  days,  the  cider  has 
become  clear,  draw  off  carefully,  to  avoid  the 
sediment,  and  bottle.  If  loosely  corked  for  a 
short  time,  it  will  become  a  sparkling  cider 
wine,  and  may  be  kept  indefinitely  long. 

733.  Honey  or  Mead  Wine.    Honey, 
20  pounds;   cider,  12  gallons;  ferment,  then 
add  rum,  ^  gallon;  brandy,  |  gallon;  red  or 
white    tartar    (dissolved),   6   ounces;     bitter 
almonds  and  cloves,  of  each  J  ounce.     The 
process  of  fermenting,  clearing  and  bottling, 
is  similar  to  the  last  receipt. 

734.  Specimen  Process  to  Make  Un- 
ripe Grape,    Currant,    Gooseberry  and 
Rhubarb  Wine,  according  to  the  process 
of  Dr.  McCulloch.     Gather  the  fruit  when  it 
is  nearly  full  grown,  but  before  it  shows  the 
least  sign  of  ripening.    Any  kind  will  do,  but 
it  is  advisable  to  avoid  choosing  those  which, 
when  ripe,  would  be  highly  flavored.   All  un- 
sound and  bruised  fruit  should  be  rejected, 
and  the   stalks  and  remains  of  blossom  re- 
moved by  picking  or  rubbing.     The  following 
receipt  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  subject :     40 
pounds  fruit  are  to  be  bruised  in  small  quan- 
tities, in  a  tub  which  will  hold  15  or  20  gal- 
lons,  sufficient  pressure  only  being  used  to 
burst  the  berries,  without  breaking  the  seeds 
or    much  compressing  the  skins.    4  gallons 
water  are  then  to  be  poured  on  the  fruit, 
which  is  to  be  carefully  stirred,  and  squeezed 
with  the  hands  until  the  whole  of  the  juice 
and  pulp  are  separated,  from  the  solid  matter. 
It  is  then  to  rest  for  a  few  hours,  when  it  must 
be  pressed  and  strained  through  a  coarse  can- 
vas bag  with   considerable   force.     1  gallon 
water  may  afterwards  be  passed  through  the 
residue,  to  remove  any   soluble  matter  that 
may  be  left,  and  then  added  to  the  juice.     30 
pounds  loaf  sugar  are  now  to  be  dissolved  in 
Jie   juice,   and  the   total  quantity  of  liquid 
made  up   with  water  to   10£  gallons.     The 

iquor  is  now  to  be  put  into  a  tub,  over  which 
spread  a  blanket,   covered  by  a  board,  and 
)lace  in  a  temperature  of  from  55°  to   60° 
Pahr.  for  from  24  to  48  hours,  according  to  the 
signs  which  it  may  show  of  fermentation, 
when  it  is  to  be  put  into  a  cask  to  ferment. 
The  cask  must  be  of  such  size  that  the  liquor 
will  nearly  reach  to  the  bung-hole,  so  that  tho 
scum  may  run  out  as  it  rises.    As  the  fermen^ 
;ation  goes  on  the  liquor  will  decrease,  and 
,he  cask  must  be  kept  filled  up  nearly  to  tho 
jung-hole  with  a  portion  of  the  "must"  which 
las  been  reserved  for  that  purpose.     When  the 
"ermentation  has    become    a   little   weaker, 
which  may  be  known  by  the  hissing  noise  de- 
reasing,  the  bung  is  to  be  driven  in,  and  a 
wooden  peg,  called   a  spile,  made  of  tough 
wood,  put  into  a  hole  bored  in  the  top  of  the 
jarrel     After  a  few  days  this  peg  is  to  be 
oosened   to  let  out  any  carbonic    acid  gas 
which  has  been    generated.     This  must  bo 
one  from  time  to  time,  and  when  there  is  no 
urther  sign  of  gas  generating  to  the  danger 
f  the  barrel,  the  spile  may  be  made  tight. 
The  wine  should  be  kept  during  tho  winter  in 
cool  cellar,  and,  if  fine,  may  be  bottled  on 
clear  cold  day  at  the  end  of  February  or  tho 
eginning  of  March,  without  further  trouble. 
But  to  ensure  its  fineness  it  is  preferable  to 
raw  it  off  at  the  end  of  December  into  a 
resh  cask,  so  as  to  clear  it  from  the  lees.    At 


86 


HOME-MADE     WINES. 


this  time,  also,  if  it  is  found  to  be  too  sweet 
for  the  maker's  taste,  he  should  stir  up  the  lees 
so  as  to  renew  the  fermentation,  at  the  same 
time  raising  the  temperature.  When  it  is 
transferred  to  the  fresh  cask,  it  should  be 
fined  with  isinglass.  Sometimes  it  is  desira- 
ble to  rack  it  off  a  second  time  into  a  fresh 
cask,  again  fining  it.  All  these  removals 
should  be  made  in  clear,  dry,  and  if  possible, 
cold  weather.  It  must  be  bottled  in  March. 
This  wine  will  usually  be  brisk,  but  circum- 
1  stances  will  occasionally  cause  it  to  be  sweet 
and  still,  and  sometimes  dry.  If  sweet,  it 
may  be  re-made  the  following  season,  by  add- 
ing'to  it  juice  from  fresh  fruit,  according  to 
the  degree  of  sweetness,  and  fermenting  and 
treating  it  as  before.  But  if  it  be  dry,  brisk- 
ness can  never  be  restored,  and  it  must  be 
treated  as  a  dry  wine,  by  drawing  it  off'  into  a 
cask  previously  fumigated  with  sulphur  (see 
No.  766),  and  fining  and  bottling  it  in  the 
usual  manner.  Such  dry  wines  sometimes 
taste  disagreeably  in  the'  first  and  second 
year,  but  improve  much  with  age.  If  the 
whole  marc  or  husks,  etc.,  is  allowed  to  re- 
main in  the  juice  during  the  first  fermentation, 
the  process  will  be  more  rapid,  and  the  wine 
stronger  and  less  sweet;  but  it  will  have  more 
flavor.  If  the  wine  is  desired  to  be  very  sweet 
as  well  as  brisk,  40  pounds  of  sugar  may  be 
used ;  less  sweet  and  less  strong,  25  pounds ; 
it  will  be  brisk,  but  not  so  strong,  and  ought 
to  be  used  within  a  year. 

735.  Ripe    Gooseberry    "Wine.      Put 
the  ripe  and  well  picked  red    gooseberries 
into  a  tub  or  pan,  bruise  the  fruit  well,  and 
leave  it  uncovered  for  24  hours.     Squeeze  the 
juice  from  the  pulp  through  a  hair  or  canvas 
bag.     Put  the  residue  of  each  squeezing  into 
a  vessel;  pour  upon  it  ^  gallon  of  boiling  wa- 
ter for  each  gallon  of  fruit  used,  and  stir  well 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.     Let  it  stand  for  12 
hours,  squeeze  the  pulp  through  the  bag,  and 
add  the  liquor  to  the  juice  of  the  fruit  ob- 
tained.   Add  2£  pounds  sugar  to  each  gallon 
of  the  liquor,  aud  stir  it  well.     Let  it  stand  to 
ferment.     "When  it  has  done  fermenting,  draw 
it  off  and  add  f  pint  brandy  to  each  gallon. 
Let  it  stand  to  settle  for  4  or  5  weeks,  then 
draw  it  off  carefully  into  a  cask  that  will  just 
hold  it;  keep  it  in  a  cool  cellar  for  twelve 
months  or  more,  when  it  may  be  bottled. 
Choose  a  clear,  dry,  cold  day.     It  ought  to  be 
a  splendid  wine  in  2  years. 

736.  Ginger  Wine.      Boil  20    pounds 
sugar  in  7   gallons  water  for  half  an  hour, 
skimming  it  well;  then  put  9  ounces  bruised 
ginger  in  a  portion  cf  the  liquor,  and  mix  all 
together.    When  nearly  cold,  put  9  pounds 
raisins,  chopped  very  small,  into  a  nine-gallon 
cask,  add  4  lemons  sliced,  after  taking  out  the 
seeds,  and  pour  the  liquor  over  all,  yith  f 
pint  yeast.    Leave  the  cask  open  for  3  weeks, 
keeping  it  filled  np  with  some  cf  the  reserved 
liquor,  and  bottle  it  in  from  G  to  9  months. 

737.  Ginger   Wine.      Another  Pro- 
cess.    Boil  25  pounds  raw  sugar  in  7  gallons 
water  for  half  an  hour,  skimming  it  well;  then, 
if  the  syrup  is  quite  clear  from  scum,  pour 
it  boiling  upon  8  ounces  bruised  ginger  and  16 
lemons  "sliced ;   when  the  whole  has  cooled 
down  to  about  75°,  squeeze  out  the  lemons 
and  ginger  through  a  sieve,  and  add  the  yeast. 
Let  it  work  for  about  3  days,  and  then  draw 


it  off  into  a  cask.  Put  half  of  the  lemon  and 
ginger  residue  in  with  it.  Some  first  pare  the 
lemons,  and  having  rubbed  the  rinds  with 
loaf  sugar,  add  the  latter  when  it  is  done 
working.  Bottle  in  3  months. 

738.  To    Make    Aromatic     Ginger 
Wine.     Reduce  the  following  to  coarse  pow- 
der: 5  pounds  Jamaica  ginger  root,  6  to  8 
ounces  cloves,  1  pound  allspice,  $  pound  cinna- 
mon, and  |  pound  mace.    Infuse  these  for  10 
days  in  10  gallons  95  per  cent,  spirit,  stirring 
every  day,  and  then  filter.     Then  dissolve  £0 
pounds  white  sugar  in  85  gallons  water ;  mix 
the  whole  together,   and  color  with  cherry 
juice ;  then  filter. 

739.  To  Make  Ten  Gallons  of  Ginger 
Wine.     Boil  f  pound  best  white  Jamaica  gin- 
ger, bruised,  in  about  8  gallons  water;   add 
the  whites  of  G  eggs  to  J  ounce  isinglass,  15 
pounds  loaf  sugar,  and  the  rinds  of  G  lemons; 
boil  the  compound  f  of  an  hour,  and  skim  it 
clean ;  when  nearly  cold  put  it  into  a  vessel 
that  will  admit  of  'its  being  drawn  off;  set  it 
to  work  with  yeast,  and  in  a  few  days  after- 
wards draw  it  off  into  a  cask ;  then  add  the 
juice  of  the  G  lemons,  and  2  quarts  spirits ;  in 
a  week  or  ten  days  bung  the  cask  closely,  and 
when  thoroughly  fine,  bottle  the  wine  off.    It 
will  be  fit  to  drink  in  4  months. 

740.  Simple    Receipt    for    Making 
Grape  Wine.     Put  20  pounds  of  ripe,  fresh- 
picked,  and  well  selected  grapes  into  a  stone 
jar,  and  pour  on  them  G  quarts  boiling  water ; 
when  the  water  has  cooled  enough,   squeeze 
the  grapes  well  with  the  hand ;  cover  the  jar 
with  a  cloth,  and  let  it  stand  for  3  days ;  then 
press  out  the  juice,  and  add  10  pounds  crushed 
sugar.    After  it  has  stood  for  a  week,  scum, 
strain,  and  bottle  it,  corking  loosely.     "When 
the  fermentation  is  complete,  strain  it  again 
and  bottle  it,  corking  tightly.     Lay  the  bot- 
tles on  their  side  in  a  cool  place. 

741.  Fine  Grape  Wine.     In  order  to 
make  good  .wine  it  is  necessary  to  have  a 
good  cellar,  clean  casks,  press,  etc.     First  of 
all,  have  your  grapes  well  ripened;    gather 
them  in  dry  weather,  and  pick  out  carefully 
all  the  unripe  berries,  and  all  the  dried  and 
damaged  ones  ;  then  mash  them  ;   or,  if  you 
have  a  proper  mill  for  the  purpose,  grind 
them.     Bo  careful  not  to  set  the  mill  so  close 
as  to  maph  the  seed,  for  they  will  give  a  bad 
taste  to  the  wine.    If  you  wish  to  havo  wine 
of  a  rose  color,  let  the  grapes  remain  in  a 
large  tub  a  few  hours  before  pressing.     The 
longer  time  you  leave  the  grapes  before  press- 
ing, after  they  are  mashed,  the  more  color  the 
wine  will  have.     For  pressing  the  grapes,  any 
press  will  answer,  provided  it  is  kept  clean 
and  sweet.      After  you  have  collected  the 
must  in  a  clean  tub  from  the  press,  transfer 
it  into  a  cask  in  the  cellar.     Fill  the  cask 
within  10  inches  cf  the  bung;  then  place  cno 
end  of  a  syphon,  made  for  that  purpose,  in 
the  bung,  and  fix  it  air-tight ;  the  other  end 
must  be  submerged  fully  4  inches  in  a  bucket 
of  cold  water.    The  gas  thus  passes  off  from 
the  caek,  but  the  air  is  prevented  frcm  coming 
in  contact  with  the  wine,  which  would  destroy 
that  fine  grape  flavor  which  makes  Catawba 
wine  so   celebrated.     When  properly  made, 
the  must  will  undergo  fermentation.     When 
it  has  fermented,  which  will  be  in  15  days, 
fill  the  cask  with  the  same  kind  of  wine  and 


HOME-MADE     WINES. 


87 


bung  it  loosely  for  1  week ;  then  make  it 
tight.  Nothing  more  is  needed  till  it  is  clear, 
which,  if  all  is  right,  will  be  in  the  January 
or  February  following.  Then,  if  perfectly 
clear,  rack  it  off  into  another  clean  cask,  and 
bung  it  up  tightly  until  wanted.  If  the  wine 
remains  in  the  cask  till  about  November, 
it  will  improve  by  racking  it  again.  Be  sure 
to  have  sweet,  clean  casks.  Do  not  burn  too 
much  brimstone  in  the  cask,  (see  No.  733) ; 
much  wine  is  injured  by  excessive  use  of 
brimstone-  -a  mistake  generally  made  by  new 
beginners.  Different  qualities  of  wine  can  be 
made  with  tho  same  grape  by  separating  the 
different  runs  of  tho  same  pressing.  The  first 
run  is  tho  finest  to  make  use  of  the  first 
season;  but  it  will  not  keep  long  without 
losing  its  fine  qualities.  To  make  good  sound 
wine,  that  will  improve  by  age,  the  plan  is  to 
mix  all  up  together.  The  very  last  run  will 
make  it  rough,  but  it  will  have  better  body 
and  better  flavor  when  2  or  3  years  old,  and 
will  improve  for  a  number  of  years.  The 
first  run  will  not  be  good  after  2  or  o  years. 

742.  To  Fine  Wine  Difficult  to  Clari- 
fy, or  Thick  in  Consequence  of  an  Im- 
perfect Fermentation.     To  clarify  CO  gal- 
lons, take  1  ounce  of  tho  species  of  Dock  or 
Ruinex  plant,  called  Patienco  root,  which  boil 
in  1  quart  water.     "When  cold,  filter,  and  add 
1   ounce  common  salt,  then  1   gla^s  sheep's 
blood.     Beat  all  tho  ingredients  well  together 
with  a  broom  until   the  mixture  foams  up 
well,  then  add  it  gradually  to  tho  wine,  stir- 
ring continually  while  pouring  it  in,  and  for 
15  minutes  afterwards.     In  a  few  days  the 
wine  will  bo  clear. 

743.  To  Fine  Madeira  or  any  kind  of 
Wine  with  Isinglass.     To  fine  40  gallons 
wine,  steep  1  ounce  isinglass  ia  1  pint  of  pure 
cold  water  over  night,  and  then  melt  it  over 
a  gentle  charcoal  fire,  until  a  uniform  gelatin- 
ous mass  i.3  formed.     When  cool,  mix  with  it 
3  pints  wine,  and  let  it  repose  12  hours  in  a 
moderately  warm  room.     Then  add  1  gallon 
wine  and  mix  the  whole  in  a  wooden  vessel ; 
whisk  it  with  a  clean  broom  until  it  foams  up. 
Pour  this  mixture  gradually  in  the  wine  you 
desire  to  fine,  being  careful  to  stir  the  whole 
continually  during  the  process.     Bung  up  the 
cask,  and  in  the  course  of  48  hours  the  wine 
will  appear  perfectly  clear  and  bright.     Isin- 
glass prepared  in  this   way  will  precipitate 
perfectly,  and  leave  no  particles  suspended  in 
the  wine. 

744.  To    Fine    White    Wine   with 
Eggs.     To  fine  GO  gallons  white  wine,  take 
the  whites  of  5  or  G  fresh  eggs,  1  egg-shell 
nearly  reduced  to  powder,  and  a  small  hand- 
ful of  common  salt.     Beat  the  whole  together 
in  a  little  of  tho  wine,  with  a  small  clean 
broom,  until  it  foams,  then  pour  it  into  the 
wine  gradually,  constantly  stirring  it  all  the 
while. 

745.  To    Fine    Red    Wine.     This   is 
clarified  in  tho  same  way.     "When  you  have 
Roussillon,  or  the  dark  wines  called  vin  du 
midi,  which  are  usually  of  a  deep  color,  and 
wish  to  make  it  of  a  lighter  color,  add  5  or  G 
eggs,   yellows,  whites,  and   shells    together, 
with  a  small  handful  of  Rait. 

746.  To  Fine  a  Pipe  of  Port  Wine. 
Take  the  whites  and  shells  of  ten  good  eggs, 
and   beat  them  up   to   a  froth  in  a  wooden 


bucket ;  add  1  gallon  of  Port  and  whisk  it 
well  up  to  a  froth  with  a  clean  broom  ;  draw 
off  4  gallons,  and  put  the  finings  in  it ;  stir 
it  up  well,  leaving  put  the  bung  one  day; 
then  bung  it  up,  and  in  ten  days  it  will  bo  fit 
to  bottle.  If  the  weather  be  warm,  mix  up  1 
pint  silver  sand  and  add  to  the  finings. 

747.  To  Fine  Wine,  Cider,  Ale,  or 
Porter.     Take  1  pound  finely  shredded  isin- 
glass, and  macerate  it  in  wine,  sour  beer, 
cider,  or  vinegar;  add  more  of  the  liquid  as 
the  isinglass  swells,  until  about  a  gallon  has 
been  used,  agitation  with  a  whisk  being  occa- 
sionally had  recourse  to,  for  the  purpose  of 
promoting  the    solution.      As   soon   as   the 
whole  of  tho  isinglass  is  dissolved,  the  mix- 
ture is  reduced   to  the  consistence  of  thin 
syrup,   with    wine  or   the    liquid    that    the 
finings  are  intended  for.    The  whole  is  next 
strained  through  a  cloth  or  hair  sieve,  and  at 
once  reduced  to  a  proper  state  of  dilution,  by 
the   addition  of  more  liquor.     A  pound  of 

food  isinglass  will  make  10  to  12  gallons  of 
nings.     1  to  H  pints  is  the  usual  quantity 
for  a  barrel  of  ale  or  porter ;  and  1  quart  for  a 
hogshead  of  wine  or  cider. 

748.  To  Decolor  Wine.     The  color  of 
wine  is  subject  to  change ;  naturally  it  is  pre- 
cipitated by  age  and  exposure  to  the  light ; 
artificially  it  is  removed  by  the    action  of 
lime-water,  skimmed  milk,  milk  of  lime,  and 
sometimes  fresh-burnt  charcoal.    Wines  that 
have  acquired  a  brown  color  from  the  cask,  or 
red  wines  that  have  become  "pricked"  (see 
No.  752),   or  dark  wines  of  any  kind,  may 
easily  be  turned  into  white  wine  by  employ- 
ing either  of  the  above  substances.    In  this 
way  brown  Sherry  is  commonly  changed  to 
pale  Sherry  ;  for  this  purpose  2  or  3  pints  of 
skimmed    milk    are    generally    sufficient    to 
decolor  a  cask  of  wine  ;  but  when  it  is  found 
necessary  to  change  the  color  of  red  wine,  2 
or  3  quarts  or  more  will  be  required.     Char- 
coal is  not  often  used,  as  it  affects  the  flavor 
as  well  as  color  of  wine.    A  little  milk  of 
lime  may  sometimes  be  substituted  for  milk, 
especially  when  tho  wine  to  be  decolored  is 
very  acid,  and  red  wines  may  be  rendered 
quite  colorless  by  it. 

749.  To  Remedy  Ropiness  in  Wine. 
The  peculiar  cloudy,  stringy,  oily  appearance 
in  wine,  called  by  the  French  "  graisse,"  and 
by  the  Americans  "ropiness,"  is  occasioned 
by  tho  presence  of  a  glutinous  substance,  and 
is  generally  observed  in  those  white  wines 
which    do    not    contain   much    tannin.     M. 
Francois,    a    chemist,    first    discovered    the 
cause,  and  pointed  out  the  proper  remedy,  in 
the  addition  of  tannin.     He  recommended  the 
use  of  1  pound  of  the  bruised  berries  of  the 
mountain  ash  in  a  somewhat  unripe   state, 
well  stirred  in  each  barrel  of  the  wine  to  be 
improved.    After  agitation,  the  wine  is  to  bo 
left  to  repose  a  day  or  two,  and  then  racked 
off.     Tho  tannin  in  the  berries  by  this  time 
will    have    separated    and    precipitated    the 
glutinous  matter  from  the  liquid,  and  removed 
tho  ropiuess.     "Wines  thus  affected  cannot  be 
fined  in  the  regular  way,  as  they  do  not  con- 
tain sufficient  of  the  astringent  principle  to 
cause  tho  coagulation  or  precipitation  of  the 
finings ;  this  principle  must  therefore  bo  sup- 
plied, and  for  pale  white  wines,  which  are 
the  kind  chiefly  attacked  with  ropiness,  iioth- 


88' 


HOME-MADE     WINES. 


ing  equals  a  little  pure  tannin  or  tannic  acid 
dissolved  in  proof  spirit.  Ked  wines  contain 
so  much  tannic  acid  that  they  are  never 
troubled  by  ropiness.  "Wine,  after  having 
been  cured  of  ropiness,  should  immediately  be 
fined  and  bottled. 

750.  To  Ripen  Wine.     Dealers  adopt 
various  ways  to  hasten  the  ripening  of  wine. 
One  of  the  safest  and  best  plans  for  this  pur- 
pose, especially  for  strong  wines,  is  to  let  them 
remain  on  the  lees  15  to  18  months  before 
racking  off,  or,  whether  "  crude  "  or  "  racked," 
keeping  them  at  a  temperature  ranging  be- 
tween 50°  to  60°  Fah.,  in  a  cellar  free  from 
draughts,   and  not  too  dry.    Dealers  some- 
times remove  the  bungs  or  corks,  and  substi- 
tute bladders    fastened  air-tight.       Bottled 
wine  treated  in  this  way,  and  kept  at  about 
70°  Pah.,  ripens  very  rapidly.     4  or  5  drops  of 
acetic  acid  added  to  a  bottle  of  some  kinds  of 
new  wine,  immediately  gives  it  the  appearance 
of  being  2  or  3  years  old. 

751.  To  Remedy  Sour  Wine.      The 
souring  of  wine  is  produced  by  various  cir- 
cumstances, sometimes  from  its  having  been 
kept  in  a  warm  cellar  where  it  has  been  ex- 
posed to  draughts  of  air,  often  by  the  vibra- 
tion occasioned  by  the  rolling  of  heavy  bodies 
over  the  cellar ;  but  most  frequently  it  origi- 
nates from  the  wine  having  been  imperfectly 
fermented.      The  only  safe  remedy  for  the 
souring  of  wine  is  the  cautious  addition  of  a 
little  neutral  tartrate  of  potash ;  it  may  also 
be  mixed  with  a  larger  quantity  of  rich  wine 
of  its  kind,  at  the  same  time  adding  a  little 
good  brandy.      Wine   treated    in    this    way 
should  be  fined  after  having  stood  2  or  3 
weeks,  and  then  immediately  bottled,    and 
consumed  as  soon  as  possible,  for  it  will  never 
prove  a  good  keeping  wine.     (See  No.  761.) 

752.  To  Restore  Pricked  or  Decay- 
ing Wine.     If  the  wine  is  only  thick,  add  2 
pints  of  milk  to  every  30  gallons  of  wine,  and 
stir  10  minutes.     But  if  the  wine  has  an  infe- 
rior taste,   or  is  partly   or  entirely  spoiled, 
treat  it  as  follows  :     Put  the  30  gallons  wine 
into  a  clean  cask,  then  take  2  pints  spirit  of 
wine,  95  per  cent.;  3  ounces  common  salt ;  1 
pound  white  sugar.     Dissolve  the   salt   and 
sugar  in  |  gallon  of  the  wine,  and  add  the 
spirit.     Then  pour  the  whole  gradually  into 
the  wine,  being  careful  to  stir  it  continually 
with  a  stick  during  the  operation.     After  the 
mixture  is  all  poured  in  the  wine,  stir  the 
whole  for  10  minutes  longer.     Then  add  2 
pints  milk  and  continue  stirring  10  minutes 
more.    After  some  days  the  wine  will  be  com- 
pletely clarified    and    restored.      "Pricked" 
wine  signifies  wine  which  has  been  slightly 
soured. 

753.  To  Remedy  Excessive  Acidity 
in    German  Wine.     Simply    add    a    little 
chalk.     This  mode  of  correcting  the  sourness 
of  wine  is  perfectly   harmless,  whereas  the 
pernicious  practice  of  using  white  and  vitri- 
fied lead  for  this  purpose  cannot  be  too  much 
condemned.     Lead  in  any  form  is  a  poison. 

754.  To  Restore  Sour    Wine   with 
Potash.     To  25  gallons  wine,  add  4  ounces 
potash  dissolved  in  a  little  water,  and  stir  well 
with  a  stick  for  10  minutes. 

755.  To   Test  Wines    Beginning   to 
Decompose.     Many  persons  are  unaware  of 
the  difference  between  a  wine  that  is  begin- 


ning to  decompose  (called  in  French  the 
Poux),  and  that  in  which  the  acetous  fermen- 
tation has  commenced.  The  Poux  appears  at 
the  bottom  of  the  barrel,  while  acetification 
begins  at  the  top.  For  the  first  stage  of  the 
Poux  the  wine  becomes  thick,  and  has  a  pecu- 
liar taste  termed  flat.  For  the  second  stage 
the  wine  becomes  still  more  troubled,  and  has 
the  taste  of  stagnant  water.  Finally,  in  the 
last  stage,  when  the  decomposition  has 
reached  its  maximum,  the  wine  becomes 
grayish  and  appears  like  muddy  water.  If 
some  of  the  wine  is  put  into  a  champagne 
glass  and  a  pinch  of  tartaric  acid  is  added,  a 
red  color  will  be  produced,  which  will  not 
be  the  case  if  the  wine  is  in  a  state  of  acetous 
fermentation. 

756.  Remedy  for  Decomposition  in 
Wines.     As  soon  as  discovered  add  tartaric 
acid  in  the  proportion  of  If  ounces  to  every 
20  gallons  of  the  wine,  and  let  it  rest  for  a 
few  days,  when,  if  the  wine  has  not  regained 
its  natural  color,  a  little  more  tartaric  acid 
must  be  added. 

757.  Sweating  In  and  Fretting  In 
Wine.     The  technical  terms  "sweating  in" 
and  "fretting  in"  are   applied  to  the  partial 
production  of  a  second  fermentation,  for  the 
purpose  of  mellowing  down  the  flavor  of  for- 
eign ingredients   (chiefly  brandy)   added  to 
wine.     For  this  purpose  4  or  5  pounds  sugar 
or  honey,  with  alittle  crude  tartar  (dissolved), 
are  commonly  added  per  hogshead ;  and  when 
the  wine  is  wanted  in  haste,  1  or  2  spoonfuls 
of  yeast,  or  a  few  braised  vine  leaves  are  also 
mixed  in,  the  cask  being  placed  in  a  moder- 
ately warm  situation  until  the  new  fermenta- 
tion is  established,  when  it  is  removed  to  the 
wine-cellar,  and,  after  a  few  days,  fined  down. 

758.  To  Remove    Mustiness    from 
Wine.    The  disagreeable  taste  in  wine,  gene- 
rally known   as  mustiuess,  is  occasioned  by 
the  presence  of  an  essential  oil.     This  may  be 
removed  by  adding  a  little  sweet  or  almond  oil, 
and  then  violently  stirring  the  wine  for  some 
time.     The  fixed  oil  attracts  and  seizes  on  the 
essential  oil,  and  rises  with  it  to  the  surface, 
when  it  is  easily  skimmed  off,  or  the  liquid 
under  it  drawn  off.     A  few  slices  of  burnt  or 
toasted  bread,   or  a  little   bruised    mustard 
seed  or  coarsely  powdered  charcoal,  will  often 
have  the  same  effect.  ^ 

759.  Pasteur's  Method  of  Preserving 
Wines.      M.  Pasteur  announced  some  time 
ago  that  wines  became  spoiled  in  consequence 
of   the  presence   of   microscopic   organisms, 
which  could  be  destroyed  by  exposing  the 
wine,  for  a  few  moments  only,  to  a  tempera- 
ture of  131°  Fahr.     A  committee  of  experts 
was  appointed  to  make  a  comparative  exam- 
ination of  wines  which  had  and  which  had 
not  been  subjected  to   heat;    M.  Lapparent 
being  President,  and  M.  Dumas  and  M.  Pas- 
teur assisting.     They  concluded  that  the  pre- 
servation of  wine  in  bottles  is   greatly  im- 
proved by  heating;    that  the  destruction  of 
the  germs  is  perfect,  without  the  least  impair- 
ment of  the  taste,  color,  or  limpidity  of  the 
wines. 

760.  To  Determine  the  Nature    of 
Acidity  in  Wine.     If  wine  has  undergone 
the  acetous  fermentation,  then  convert  it  at 
once  into  vinegar  by  one  of  the  usual  modes. 
But  if  its  acidity  proceeds  from  an  excess  of 


CORDIALS    OR    LIQUEURS. 


89 


tartaric  acid,  this  defect  may  be  remedied  by 
shaking  the  wine  with  a  concentrated  solution 
of  neutral  tartrate  of  potassa,  which,  with 
the  surplus  of  tartaric  acid,  will  form  bitar- 
trate  of  potassa,  and  precipitate  as  such.  To 
discover  the  nature  of  the  acidity,  neutralize 
an  ounce  or  so  of  the  wine  with  some  car- 
bonate of  soda,  then  add  a  small  quantity  of 
sulphuric  acid,  and  boil  up ;  if  acetic  acid  or 
vinegar  be  present,  it  will  be  perceptible  by 
its  odor.  (See  No.  751.) 

761.  Parent's  Method  of  Preserving 
Wine.     This  consists  in  the  addition  of  a 
small  quantity  of  tannin  or  tannic  acid  to  the 
wine,  which  perhaps  acts  in  a  similar  way,  by 
destroying  the  vitality  of  the  spores  of  the 
fungus,  since   a  microscopic  examination  of 
wine   known  to  contain  these  germs,  within 
a  few  weeks  after  being  treated  with  the  tan- 
nin, has  failed  to  detect  the  slightest  trace. 
Indeed,   wine   which  has  already  begun  to 
change,  and  become  turbid,  can  be  restored  to 
its  primitive  clearness,  and  with  a  great  im- 
provement in  its  taste.     Care  must  be  taken, 
however,  to  use  only  tannin  which  has  been 
prepared  from  the  constituents  of  the  grape, 
since  the  slightest  proportion  of  the  extract 
of  nut-gall,  although  accomplishing  the  gen- 
eral object  of  destroying  the  fungus,  will  im- 
part a  peculiar  taste,  which  never  disappears. 

762.  Antiferments.      Substances  used 
in  small  quantities  for  arresting  fermentation 
in  cider,  wine,  and  malt  liquors.     The  follow- 
ing formulae  are  effective,  and  have  the  advan- 
tage of  being  harmless.    (See  No.  835.) 

763.  Antiferments  for    Cider.      Sul- 
phite (not  sulphate)   of  lime  in  fine  powder, 
and  as  newly-  prepared  as  possible.      Or,  2 

Earts   sulphite   of   lime  and  3   parts  ground 
lack  mustard  seed. 

764.  Antiferments  for  Cider,  Wine, 
Malt  Liquors.  &c.     Grind  or  bruise  togeth- 
er 13  pounds  new  mustard  seed  and  1  pound 
cloves.     This  mixture  may  be  used  with  or 
without  the  addition  of   10  ounces  ground 
capsicum. 

765.  To    Induce   Fermentation.     If 
fermentation  does  not  begin  within  a  reason- 
able time,  raise  the  temperature  by  covering 
the  vessel  with  blankets,  and  moving  it  near 
to  a  fire.     Or,  warm  a  portion  of  the  must  and 
add  it*to  the  rest.     A  small  quantity  of  yeast, 
previously  well  mixed  with  some  of  the  liquor, 
gently  stirred  in,  will  have  the  same  effect. 
Or,   the  must  may  be  warmed  by  placing 
large  stone  bottles,  filled  with  boiling  water 
and  well  corked,  in  the  liquor. 

766.  To  Arrest  Fermentation.     Dip  a 
strip   of  linen  or  cotton,   an  inch  wide  and 
seven  inches  long,  into  melted  sulphur.     Pas- 
ten  a  wire  into  the  bung  of  a  60-gallon  cask, 
so  that  the  end  will  hang  about  the  middle  of 
the  inside  of  the  cask,  bend  the  end  up  to 
form  a  hook,  place  the  sulphur  tape  on  the 
hook,  ignite  it,  and  insert  it  in  the  cask,  bung- 
ing loosely.     In  about  an  hour  the  cask  will 
be  impregnated  with  sulphurous  acid ;    then 
withdraw  the  match,  and  fill  up  with  wine, 
and  bung  up  tight.     This  will  stop  further 
fermentation.     This  is  a  good  plan  for  white 
wines,  but  not  for  red  wines,  as  sulphur  in- 
jures their  color.     Sulphite  (not  sulphate)  of 
lime  is  also  sometimes  employed  to  arrest  fer- 
mentation.    (See  No.  835.) 


/Cordials  or  Liqueurs.    The 

V^  materials  employed  in  the  preparation  of 
cordials  are  rain  or  distilled  water,  white 
sugar,  and  clean,  perfectly  flavorless  spirit. 
To  these  may  be  added  the  substances  from 
which  the  flavor  and  aroma  are  extracted, 
which  distinguish  and  give  character  to  the 
particular  cordial  to  be  made,  and  also  the  arti- 
cles employed  as  "finings"  when  artificial 
clarification  is  had  recourse  to.  In  the  prep- 
aration or  compounding  of  cordials,  one  of  • 
the  first  objects  which  engages  the  operator's 
attention  is  the  production  of  an  alcoholic 
solution  of  the  aromatic  principles  which  are 
to  give  them  their  peculiar  aroma  and  flavor. 
(See  No.  812.)  This  is  done  either  by  simple 
infusion  or  maceration,  or  by  maceration  and 
subsequent  distillation,  or  by  flavoring  the 
spirit  with  essential  oils.  In  the  preparation 
of  liqueurs,  glycerine  has  been  found  to  be 
admirably  adapted  for  preserving  the  charac- 
teristic flavors  of  those  compounds,  and  it  has 
consequently  become  the  great  favorite  of 
this  class  of  manufactures.  (See  No.  725.) 

768.  Cordials  Made  by  Maceration, 
or  with.  Essential  Oils.     When  essential 
oils  are  employed  to  convey  the  flavor,  they 
are  first  dissolved  in  a  little  of  the  strongest 
rectified  spirit  of  wine,  and  when  added  to  the 
spirit  they  are  mixed  up  with  the  whole  mass 
as  rapidly  and  as  perfectly  as  possible  by  labo- 
rious   and   long  continued    agitation.      The 
stronger  spirit  may  be  reduced  to  the  desired 
strength  by  means  of  clear  soft  water,  or  the 
clarified  syrup   used  for    sweetening.      The 
sugar  employed  should  be  of  the  finest  quality, 
and    is  preferably  made  into    syrup  before 
adding  it  to  the  aromatized  spirit ;  and  this 
should  not  be  added  until  the  latter  has  been 
rendered  perfectly  fine  by  filtering  or  fining. 
Some  spirits,  as  anise  seed,  etc.,  frequently 
require  this  treatment,  which  is  best  performed 
by  running  them  through  a  fine  and  clean 
filter,  having  previously  mixed  them  with  a 
spoonful  or  two  of  magnesia.     By  good  man- 
agement, cordials  thus  made  will  be  perfectly 
clear  and  transparent;    but  should  this  not 
be  the  case,  they  may  be  fined  with  the  whites 
of  about  12  or  20  eggs  to  the  hogshead,  or  by 
adding  a  little  alum,  either  alone  or  followed 
by  a  little  carbonate  of  soda  or  potassa,  both 
dissolved  in  water.    In  a  week  or  a  fortnight 
the  liquor  will  be  clear. 

769.  To  Make  Doppelt  Kummel  or 
Caraway.     Dissolve  separately,   each  in  a 
little  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  £  drachm   oil  of 
anise,  and  5  drops  each  of  the  oils  of  calamus, 
bitter  almonds,  and  coriander;  dissolve  also  1  to 
1-J-  ounces  oil  of  caraway  in  sufficient  alcohol 
(95  per  cent.)  to  make  a  clear  solution.    In- 
corporate these  with  40  gallons  French  proof 
spirit ;  and  add  10  pounds  sugar  dissolved  in 
5  gallons  water. 

770.  To  Make  Anisette.     To  30  gallons 
French  proof  spirit  add  4  ounces  essence  of  star 
anise  dissolved  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  105 
gallons  syrup  of  10°  Baume.     Stir  for  i  an 
hour,  settle  and  filter. 

771.  To  Make  Curacoa.     Slice  the  out- 
side peel  very  thin  from  60  bitter  oranges; 
infuse  for  15"  days  with  4  drachms  bruised 
cinnamon,  and  2  drachms  bruised  mace,  in  5 
gallons  95  per  cent.  French   spirit,  stirring 
every  day.    Then  add  25  pounds  white  sugar 


90 


CORDIALS    OR    LIQUEURS. 


dissolved  in  2  gallons  water;  color  with 
caramel  (see  No.  694) ;  stir  thoroughly,  and 
filter. 

772.  To  Make  Maraschino.    Dissolve 
in.  H  gallons  95  per  cent,  alcohol,    1^   ounces 
essence  of  maraschino,  1£  drachms  essence  of 
rose,  k  drachm  essence  of  noyau,  5  drops  essence 
of  cloves,  and  8  drops  essence  of  cinnamon  ;  add 
k  gallon  orris  root  flavoring.    (See  No.  669.) 
Mix  the  above  with  12  gallons  95  per  cent, 
alcohol  and  26  gallons  syrup  of  30°  Baume. 
Stir  thoroughly  and  filter. 

773.  Superfine  Maraschino.    4  ounces 
essence  of  noyau ;  1  ounce  essence  of  rose ;  i 
ounce  essence  of  neroli  (genuine);  4  drachms 
of  mace,  infused  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol ;  J 
pound  cinnamon,  infused  in  1  quart  of  water ; 
2  ounces  cloves,  infused  in  1  pint  of  water ;  2 
pounds   orris  root  (powdered),  infused  in  2 
gallons  95  per  cent,  alcohol  for  15  days.     Dis- 
solve the  essences  in  2  gallons  95  per  cent, 
alcohol.     Mix,  put  into  a  barrel  41  gallons  85 
per  cent,  alcohol ;  add  the  aromas,  in  4  gallons 
95  per  cent,  alcohol ;  sugar  syrup,  90  gallons 
32°  Baum6.    Stir  all  the  ingredients  well  to- 
gether for  at  least  half  an  hour,  and  let  the 
mixture  stand  two  weeks ;  then  filter  and  put 
in  the  filter  two  or  three  sheets  of  filtering 
paper.     (See  No.  811.) 

774.  Maraschino,     li  ounces  essence  of 
maraschino,   li  drachms  essence  of  rose,  i 
drachm  essence  of  noyau,  8  drops  essence  of 
cinnamon,  5  drops  essence  of  cloves,  4  pound 
orris  root  (powdered),  infused  in  i  gallon  95 
per  cent,  alcohol  for  15  days.    Dissolve  the 
essences  in  1  gallon  95  per  cent,  alcohol.  Mix, 
put  in  a  barrel  12  gallons  80  per  cent,  alcohol 
and  add  2  gallons  95  per  cent,  perfumed  alco- 
hol (as  described  above) ;  sugar  syrup,  26  gal- 
lons 25°  Baum6's  saccharometer.    Mix  and 
filter  as  directed  in  the  last  receipt. 

775.  Maraschino.     3J    ounces  essence 
of  noyau,  6  drachms  essence  of  rose.     Dis- 
solve the  above  in  £  gallon  95  per  cent,  alco- 
hol, and  add  4  spoonfuls  of  magnesia,  1  gal- 
lon orange  flower  water,  k  pound  cinnamon 
; (bruised)  infused  in  i  gallon  water,  J  pound 

cloves  (bruised),  infused  in  J  gallon  of  water, 

4  drachms  mace  infused  in  alcohol,  2  pounds 
orris  root  (powdered)  infused  in  2  gallons  95 
per  cent,  alcohol  for  15  days.    Mix  41  gallons 
80  per  cent,  alcohol,   90   gallons    syrup    25 
degrees  Baume,  and  add  4  gallons  perfumed 
spirits,  as  described  above.     Stir  and  filter  as 
already  directed. 

776.  Curacoa  d'Hollande.    2   pounds 
Curacoa  orange  peel,  £  pound  Ceylon  cinna- 
mon.   Let  them  soak  in  water ;  boil  them  for 

5  minutes  with  the  juice  of  32  oranges  and  14 
gallons  of  white  plain  syrup ;  then  add  6  gal- 
lons of  95  per  cent,  alcohol ;  strain,  filter ; 
color  dark  yellow  with  sugar  coloring.     This 
receipt  will  make  a  splendid  curacoa. 

777.  Curacao.     2  ounces  each  essence  of 
bitter  oranges  and  neroli ;  J  ounce  essence  of 
cinnamon ;  3  drachms  mace  infused  in  alcohol. 
Dissolve  the  above  essences  in  1  gallon  95 
per  cent,  alcohol,  then  put  in  a  clean  barrel 
13  gallons  85  per  cent,  alcohol,  26  gallons 
sugar  syrup  30  degrees  Baume,  and  add  1 
gallon  perfumed  spirit,  as  above.     Color  with 
saffron  or  turmeric. 

778.  Champion  Anisette.     Put  into  a 
barrel  30  gallons  85  per  cent,  alcohol.    Add 


4  ounces  essence  of  anise  seed,  which  dissolve 
in  2  gallons  95  per  cent,  alcohol.  Add  103 
gallons  sugar  syrup  10°  Baume.  Stir  15 
minutes  and  let  it  rest  4  or  5  days,  then  filter. 
Add  2  or  3  sheets  of  filtering  paper.  (See  No. 
811.) 

779.  Anisette.     Put  in  a  barrel  13  gal- 
lons 95  per  cent,  alcohol.     Dissolve  3£  ounces 
essence  of  green  anise  seed  in  1  gallon  95 
per  cent,  alcohol,  and  add  h  gallon  orange 
flower  water,  8  or  10  drops  infusion  of  mace, 
and  5  drops  essence  of  cinnamon.     Then  put 
in  the  barrel  26    gallons   sugar  syrup    25° 
Baume'.    Stir  and  filter  as  directed  in  the  last 
receipt. 

780.  Anise  Seed  Cordial.     Dissolve  3 
drachms  of  oil  of  anise  seed  in  2f  gallons  of 
95  per  cent,  alcohol ;  then  add  2j  gallons  of 
fine  white  syrup,  mixed  with  4f  gallons  of 
water.     Stir  and  filter. 

781.  Malliorca  d'Espagne.    40  gallons 
55  per  cent,  alcohol,  5  ounces  essence  green 
anise  seed  and  5  ounces  essence  of  star  seed 
dissolved  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  £  drachm 
ether  (to  give  the  cordial    age).    Stir  and 
filter. 

782.  Blackberry  Brandy.    To  10  gal- 
lons blackberry  juice,  and  25  gallons  spirits 
40  above  proof,  add  1  drachm  each  of  oil  of 
cloves  and  oil  of  cinnamon  dissolved  in  95 
per  cent,  alcohol,  and  12  pounds  white  sugar 
dissolved  in  6  gallons  water.    Dissolve  the 
oils  separately  in  4  pint  95  per  cent,  alcohol ; 
mix  both  together,  and  use  one  half  the  quan- 
tity ;  if  the  cordial  is  not  sufficiently  flavored, 
use  the  balance. 

783.  Blackberry  Brandy,      i   ounce 
each  of  cinnamon,  cloves,  and  mace,  1  drachm 
cardamom.     Grind  to  a  coarse  powder;  add 
to  16  pounds  of  blackberries,  mashed,  and  5 
gallons  of  95  per  cent,  alcohol.     'Macerate 
for  two  weeks  ;  press  it;  then  add  10  pounds 
of  sugar,  dissolved  in  3$  gallons  of  water. 
Filter. 

784.  Cherry  Brandy.    Mash  16  pounds 
of  black   cherries  with   their  stones;   5  gal- 
lons 95  per  cent,  alcohol.     Macerate  for  two 
weeks;  press  it;  then  add  10  pounds  of  sugar, 
dissolved  in  3|  gallons  of  water.     Filter. 

785.  Peach  Brandy.     Mash  18  pounds 
of  peaches,  with  their  stones ;  macerate  them 
for  24  hours  with  4f  gallons  of  95  pe*  cent, 
alcohol  and  4  gallons  water.     Strain,  press, 
and  filter;    add   5   pints  white  plain   syrup. 
Color  dark  yellow  with  burnt  sugar  coloring. 

786.  Imperial  Peach  Brandy.     Take 
4k  ounces  powdered  bitter  almonds,  :i£  gallons 
of  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  CJ-  gallons  of  water. 
Mix  together,  and  macerate  for  24  hours  ;  then 
add  a  strained  syrup,  made  of  33  pounds  of 
sugar,  1  pint  of  peach  jelly,  2£  ounces  preserved 
ginger,   1   lemon  cut  in   slices,  1  drachm  of 
grated  nutmegs,  1  drachm  of  allspice  in  pow- 
der, and  5  pints  of  water  boiled  for  2  minutes. 
Mix  the  whole,  and  filter. 

787.  Peppermint  Brandy.     To  40  gal- 
lons proof  spirit  add  4  .ounces  essence  of  pep- 
permint, dissolved  in  95  per  cent,   alcohol. 
Color    with    k    pound    powder   of   turmeric 
infused  in  1  gallon  spirit  95  per  cent.     Use 
this  infusion  in  such  quantity  as  to  get  the 
proper  shade. 

788.  Kirschenwasser.   100  gallons  proof 
alcohol,  5  ounces  essence  of  noyau,  2  drachms 


CORDIALS    OK    LIQUEURS. 


91 


essence  of  rose.  Dissolve  the  latter  ingre- 
dient in  some  95  per  cent,  alcohol  and  add 
a  spoonful  of  magnesia,  2  pounds  orris  root 
(powdered),  infused  15  days  in  2  gallons 
95  per  cent,  alcohol,  1£  gallons  sugar  syrup. 
Stir,  and  filter  if  necessary. 

789.  Caraway  Cordial.      Dissolve    G 
drachms  oil  of  caraway   in  3  gallons  95  per 
cent,  alcohol ;  add  a  syrup  made  of  42  pounds 
of  sugar  and  4f  gallons  of  water.    Filter. 

790.  Ratafia.     This  word  is  derived  from 
the  Latin  pas  ratafiat  (let  peace  be  ratified). 
The  Latins  used  to  drink  ratafia  on  signing  their 
treaties  of  peace.     Katafia  may  be  made  with 
the  juice  of  any  fruit.     Take  3  gallons  cherry 
juice,  4  pounds  sugar,  dissolved  in  the  cherry 
juice.     Steep  in  2$  gallons  brandy  10  days 

2  drachms  cinnamon,  24  cloves,   16  ounces 
peach  leaves,  8  ounces  bruised  cherry  ker- 
nels.    Filter;    mix  both  liquors,   and  filter 
again. 

791.  To  Prepare  Cherry  Juice  by  In- 
fusion for  making  Cherry  Bounce  and 
Brandy.     Put  the  cherries  into  barrels  and 
cover  them  with  95  per  cent,  spirit ;  let  them 
steep  for  1  month,  and  stir  them  well  every 
8  days.     Use  the  juice  that  runs  off  first,  and 
repeat  this  operation  2  or  3  times.     The  last 
time,  you  may  bruise  the  cherries  and  stones, 
and  steep  them  all  together  to  make  cherry 
brandy. 

792.  To  Prepare   Cherry   Juice   for 
Boiling.     Put  the  cherries  in  a  kettle  tinned 
inside,  cover  them  with  water,  and  boil  them 
at  a  gentle  heat  for  1  hour.    "When  cold  put 
them  into  barrels  and  add  1  gallon  95  per 
cent,  spirit  to  each  10  gallons  of  the  juice. 

793.  To  Make  Cherry  Bounce  (Su- 
perfine).    To  15  gallons  cherry  juice,  add  15 
gallons  80  per  cent,  spirit;  30  gallons  Catalonia 
or  Marseilles  wine  ;  1£  ounces  essence  of  noyau; 

3  ounces  mace  infused  in  1  quart  95  per 
cent,  alcohol;  £  pound  cinnamon  infused  in  4 
gallon  water;   £  pound  cloves   ground   and 
infused    in  1   quart  of  water.     Put  all  the 
above  ingredients  in  a  clean  barrel  and  add  60 
gallons  sugar  syrup  23°  Baunie.     Stir  up  the 
ingredients  well,  and  filter  after  4  or  5  days. 
If  the  color  is  not  deep  enough  add  a  little 
sugar  coloring.     The  above  receipt  is  to  make 
120  gallons,  but  a  much  smaller  quantity  may 
be  made  by  reducing  the  quantity  of  each  in- 
gredient and  observing  the  same  proportion  in 
all. 

794.  To  make  Cherry  Bounce  (Sec- 
ond duality).     To  12  gallons  cherry  juice, 
add  30  gallons  80  per  cent,  spirit ;  30  gallons 
Catalonia  or  Marseilles  wine ;  3  ounces  essence 
of  noyau ;    -J-  pound   cinnamon  ground  and 
infused  in  4  gallon  water;  4  pound  cloves 
ground   and  infused  in   4  gallon  water;   14 
ounce  mace  infused  in  1  pint  95  per  cent, 
alcohol.    Mix  all  the  above  ingredients  in  a 
clean  barrel,  and  add  60  gallons  sugar  syrup  13° 
Baume'.     Stir  up   all    the    ingredients    well 
together,  and  filter  after  4  or  5  days.    Make 
the  color  a  little  darker  with  sugar  coloring 
(see  No.  694),  and  to  give  a  good  shade  add  a 
little  archil. 

795.  To  Make  Guignolet,  or  French 
Cherry  Bounce.     To  20  gallons  cherry  juice 
add  74  gallons  95  per  cent,  spirit;  7£  gallons 
Catalonia  or  Marseilles  wine ;  f  ounce  pow- 
dered orris  root    (infused   in   li   gallons  95 


per  cent,  alcohol) ;  k  gallon  cinnamon  water 
(made  as  in  last  receipt) ;  £  gallon  clove  water 
(made  as  in  last  receipt) ;  14  ounces  mace 
infused  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol.  Mix  all  the 
above  ingredients  in  a  clean  barrel,  and  add 
68  gallons  sugar  syrup  25°  Baume.  Stir  up 
the  mixture  and  let  it  rest  8  days ;  then  strain. 

796.  Cordials    by    Distillation.     The 
solid  ingredients  should  be  coarsely  pounded 
or  bruised  before  digestion  in  the  spirit,  and 
this  should  be  done  immediately  before  putting 
them  into  the  cask  or  vat ;  as,  after  they  are 
bruised,  they  rapidly  lose  their  aromatic  prop- 
erties by  exposure  to  the  air.     The  practice 
of   drying  the  ingredients   before  pounding 
them,  adopted  by  some  workmen  for  the  mere 
sake  of  lessening  the  labor,  cannot  be  too 
much  avoided,  as  the  least  exposure  to  heat 
tends    to   lessen  their   aromatic    properties, 
which  are  very  volatile.    The  length  of  time 
the  ingredients  should   bo    digested  in  the 
spirit  should  never  be  less  than  3  or  4  days, 
but  a  longer  period  is  preferable  when  distil- 
lation is  not  employed.     In  either  case  the 
time  allowed  for  digestion  may  be  advantage- 
ously extended  to  10  or  15  days,  and  frequent 
agitation  should    be    had    recourse    to.    In 
managing  the  still,  the  fire  should  be  propor- 
tioned to  the  ponderosity  of  the  oil  or  flavoring, 
and  the  receiver  should  be  changed  before  the 
faints  come  over,  as  the  latter  are  unfit  to  be 
mixed  with  the  cordial.    The  stronger  spirit 
may  be  reduced  to  the  desired  strength  by 
means  of  clear  soft  water,  or  the  clarified 
syrup  used  for  sweetening. 

797.  To  Make  Absinthe  by  Distilla- 
tion.    Put  the  following  ingredients  into  a 
cask : — 1£  pounds  large  absinthe,  2  pounds 
small  absinthe,   24  pounds  long  fennel,   24 
pounds  star  anise  (breaking  the  star  only),  24 
pounds  green  anise  seed,  6  ounces  coriander 
seed,  and  1  pound  hyssop ;  moisten  the  whole 
with  a  little  water,  allowing  it  time  to  soften 
and  swell ;  then  add  12  gallons  95  per  cent, 
alcohol,  and  steep  for  2  or  3  days ;  next  add 
10  gallons  water,  and  let  the  whole  steep  for 
1  day  more.    The  water  will  reduce  the  alco-. 
hoi  to  about  23  gallons  of  proof  spirit.     Dis- 
till it,  and  it  will  produce  nearly  15  gallons 
absinthe  of  65    to    70    per    cent,   strength. 
Change  the  receiver  as  soon  as  the  spirit,  as  it 
comes  from  the  worm,  begins  to  assume  a 
reddish  tinge.     Color  the  distilled  product,  by 
steeping  in  it  for  10  or  15  days  4  pound  mint 
leaves,  i  pound  melissa  leaves,  4  pound  small 
absinthe,  2  ounces  citron  peel,  and  4  pound 
bruised  liquorice  root.     Strain  and  filter. 

798.  Absinthe  by  Distillation.     This 
is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  former 
receipt,  with  the  following  ingredients : — 40 
gallons  75  per  cent,  spirits,  20  pounds  fennel, 
20  pounds  green  anise,  16  pounds  large  absin- 
the, 1  pound  coriander,  and  20  gallons  water. 
This  is  colored,  after  distillation,  by  adding  4 
pounds  small  absinthe,  and  heating  it  again 
until  as  hot  as  the  hand  can  bear ;  then  extin- 
guish the  fire,  let  it  cool,  settle,  and  filter  it. 

799.  Superfine  Curacoa.     Charge  of  the 
still:  35  pounds  green  orange  peel,  or  50  pounds 
yellow;  25  gallons  95  per  cent,  alcohol ;  add  4 
gallons  water,  making  in  all  29  gallons,  at  90 
percent.  Digest  for  10  days,  and  stir  daily.  In 
making  the  above,  the  following  directions 
must  be  carefully  observed:— I.  Distill  very 


COEDIALS    OE    LIQUEURS. 


carefully.  II.  When  you  have  drawn  offSO  gal- 
lons, add  10  gallons  water,  to  draw  off  the  faints, 
which  may  bo  distilled  again  in  the  next  distil- 
lation. III.  To  make  superfine  Curacoa,  distill 
over  again  in  a  water-bath,  adding  5  gallons 
water.  IV.  To  know  when  the  faints  are  coming 
off,  take  a  little  in  a  glass  as  it  flows,  and  add 
J  water,  as  if  for  absinthe.  When  it  no  longer 
turns  milky,  the  faints  are  coming  off;  reserve 
them  for  the  next  distillation.  Reduce  the 
Curagoa  above  distilled  to  82  per  cent.  Tralle's, 
which  will  give  26  gallons.  Add  12  gallons 
82  per  cent,  spirit,  7  gallons  coloiing  (as  given 
below),  90  gallons  syrup  31°  Baurne. 

800.  Coloring  for  Curacoa.  3£  pounds 
Brazil  wood ;  If  pounds  each  Campeachy  and 
yellow  wood,  7  gallons  90  per  cent,  alcohol. 
Mix  the  above  and  heat  in  a  water-bath,  put- 
ting on  the  head.  "When  the  head  begins  to 
get  hot,  rake  out  the  fire  and  let  the  whole 
cool  together  in  the  bath. 
.  801.  Superfine  Maraschino.  Charge 
of  the  still  with  water-bath :  Take  70  pounds 
peach  or  apricot  stones,  wash  with  tepid  wa- 
ter, and  put  them  into  a  barrel,  making  a 
square  hole  4  or  5  inches,  in  the  head,  for  that 
purpose.  Cover  them  with  35  gallons  95 
per  cent,  alcohol,  and  let  them  steep  for  one 
month.  Then  distill  the  whole. 

N"ote  the  following  observations. — I.  Be- 
fore distilling,  add  4  pounds  of  peach  flowers. 

II.  Keep  the  fire  at  the  same  degree  of  heat, 
or  the  Maraschino  will  have  an  oily  taste. 

III.  "When  nearly  finished,  add  10  gallons  wa- 
ter, to  draw  off  the  faints,  which  will  do  for 
another  distillation.     Reduce  the  spirit  above 
distilled  to  82  per  cent,  and  you  will  get  45 
gallons.     If  you  have  not  that  quantity,  add 
spirit  of  the  same  strength  to  make  it  up. 
Then  add  90  gallons  sugar  syrup  32°  Baume. 
When  you  have  not  used  peach  flowers  in  the 
distillation,  take  2  pounds  orris  root  powder, 
and  steep  it  in  2  gallons  alcohol  95  per  cent, 
for  15  days ;  then  filter,  and  add  it  to  the  mix- 
ing, not  to  the,  distillation. 

802.  Boitard's    Anisette.      Charge    of 
the  still,  water-bath :  20  pounds  green  anise 
(washed  in  river  water),  3  pounds  star  anise 
(being  careful  to  break  the  stars  only),  1 
pound  coriander  seed  (bruised),  40  gallons  95 
per  cent,  alcohol.     Put  the  above  into  the 
water-bath  with  4  gallons  water,  and  distill. 
After  distilling  35  gallons,  add  10  gallons  of 
water  to  bring  off  the  faints,  which  may  be 
distilled  again.     The  first  5  gallons  of  faints 
may  be  added  to  the  distilled  spirit,  which 
will  give  40  gallons  aromatized  alcohol.     Re- 
duce this  to  80  per  cent,  by  adding,  say  5 
gallons  distilled  water,  and  then  add  90  gal- 
lons fine  white  sugar  syrup,  31°  Baurne.     This 
will  give  135  gallons  fine  anisette. 

803.  Chauvet's   Anisette.     Charge  of 
the  still,  water-bath :  20  pounds  green  anise, 
1-J  pounds  coriander  seed,  2  drachms  neroli, 
7f  pounds  star  anise  (break  the  stars  only),  1-J 
pounds  orris  root  powdered,  40  gallons  95  per 
cent,  alcohol.    Treat  precisely  as  in  the  last 
receipt.     Reduce  the  perfumed  alcohol  to  82 
per  cent,  by  adding  4  gallons  water,  and  fur- 
ther add  l|  gallons  double  orange  flower  wa- 
ter, and  90  gallons  white  syrup  31°  Baume". 
Stir  well  and  let  it  rest  5  to  8  days,  then  filter 
through  blotting  paper.     This  will  give  135 
gallons  superfine  anisette. 


804.  Marasquino  di  Zara.     Charge  of 
the  still,  water-bath :    18  pounds  raspberries, 
G  pounds  orange  flowers,  12  pounds  sour  red 
cherries  (Morello).     Mash  the  whole  to  a  pulp 
with  stones,  macerate  24  hours  with  7  gallons 
95  per  cent,  alcohol  and  7  gallons  of  water. 
Distill  from  off  the  water,  6  gallons  flavored 
alcohol,  and  add  14  gallons  of  the   whitest 
plain  syrup  about  34°  Baume. 

805.  Malliorca  d'Espagne.     Charge  of 
the  still,  water-bath :  40  gallons  55  per  cent, 
alcohol,  18  pounds  green  anise  seed,  5  gallons 
river  water.     Put  into  the  water-bath  only  20 
gallons  of  the  alcohol,  and  5  gallons  river  wa- 
ter.    When  18  gallons  are  distilled  off,  add 
the  remaining  20  gallons  of  alcohol,  and  con- 
tinue the  distillation  until  18  gallons  more  are 
obtained,  which  mix  with  the  18  gallons  previ- 
ously obtained,  and  add  one  drachm  of  ether  to 
give  it  age. 

806.  Elixir  Vegetal    de   la   Grande 
Chartreuse.     Macerate  640  parts  by  weight, 
each,  of  the  fresh  herb  of  sweet  balm   and 
hyssop,  320  parts  of  fresh  root  of  angelica,  160 
of  cannella,  and  40  each  of  Spanish  saffron 
and  mace,  in  10,000  parts  of  alcohol,  for  eight 
days.     Then  distill  it  onto  a  certain  quantity 
(which  varies  according  to  the  color  desired) 
of  fresh  balm  and  hyssop ;  after  a  time  these 
are  expressed,  the  liquor  sweetened  with  1250 
parts  of  sugar,  and  filtered. 

807.  Fining  with  Isinglass  for  Cor- 
dials.    Take  half  an  ounce  of  the  best  isin- 
glass, and  dissolve  it  over  a  gentle  fire,  in  a 
pint  of  water  slightly  seasoned  with   good 
vinegar,  or  three  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice. 
Beat  it  from  time  to  time,  adding  a  little  of 
the  seasoned  water.     When  you  obtain  a  com 
plete  solution,  gradually  add  the  foaming  li- 
quid to  the  cordial,  stirring  all  the  while. 
Then  stir  for  15  minutes  after  it  is  all  added, 
and  let  it  rest  for  3  days ;  by  that  time  the 
cordial  will  be  bright  and  clear.     The  above 
quantity  is  sufficient  to  clarify  25  gallons  of 
cordial. 

808.  Fining  with  Eggs  for  Cordials. 
Take  the  whites  of  4  eggs,  beat  them  to  a  stiff 
froth,  add  a  little  alcohol,  and  mix  it  gradually 
with  20  gallons  of  cordial,  stirring  all  the 
while,  and  it  will  soon  clarify  the  liquor. 

809.  Fining   with    Potash  for    Cor- 
dials.    2  ounces  of  carbonate  of  potash  (salts 
of  tartar),  dissolved  in  a  quart  of  water,  is 
sufficient  to  settle  20  gallons  of  cordial ;  add 
and  stir  as  directed  above. 

810.  Fining  with  Alum  for  Cordials. 
6  drachms  of  powdered  calcinated  alum,  dis- 
solved in  alcohol,  is  sufficient  to   clarify  20 
gallons  of  cordial ;  add  as  directed  above. 

811.  Filter  Bags  for  Cordials.    The 
filter  bags  used  for  rendering  cordials  trans- 
parent are  made  of  flannel,  felt,  Canton  flannel, 
and  other  materials,  according  to  the  thickness 
or  density  of  the  liquor,  and  are  generally  of  a 
conical  shape,     In  order  to  perform  the  oper- 
ation of  filtering  cordials  thoroughly,   it  is 
necessary  that  there  should  be  placed  inside 
of  each  bag  1  or  2  sheets  of  filtering  paper 
prepared  as  follows :  Rub  each  sheet  of  paper 
until  it  becomes  soft  and  flimsy,  like  a  piece 
of  cloth,  then  tear  it  in  small  pieces  and  place 
it  in  a  pail,  pour  over  it  a  little  boiling  water, 
and  rub  and  beat  it  up  until  it  becomes  a  soft 
pulp;  afterwards  add  more  water,  and  continue 


BITTERS. 


93 


the  same  as  if  you  were  beating  up  eggs. 
"When  the  pulp  assumes  the  appearance  ot  a 
fine  paste,  fill  up  the  pail  with  water  and 
throw  the  contents  into  the  filter ;  as  soon  as 
the  water  has  run  through,  fill  up  the  filter 
again  so  as  to  keep  it  full.  "When  the  liquid 
runs  clear  and  limpid  let  it  all  run  through, 
and  commence  filtering  the  cordial,  being 
careful  to  keep  the  filter  always  full.  If  the 
liquor  does  not  run  clear,  add  about  2  ounces 
of  granulated  animal  charcoal  (sifted  and 
fanned  from  the  dust)  to  each  filter.  The 
charcoal  should  be  washed  with  a  little  muri- 
atic acid  before  being  used. 

812.  The  Aroma  of  Cordials.     It  re- 
quires a  great  deal  of  experience  to  combine 
different  perfumes  to  produce  any  certain  re- 
quired aroma,  a  knowledge  is  necessary  of 
the  effect  produced  by  perfumes  in  combina- 
tion.    The  mere  facts  laid  down  in  receipts 
will  not  be  sufficient  for  a  liquor  manufacturer ; 
he  must  know  just  what,  and  how  much  of  it 
to  use,  to  counteract  what  is  objectionable, 
and  produce  or  increase  the  correct  aroma. 
He  will  frequently  find  that  a  single  aromatic 
perfume  fails  to  give  the  effect  he  anticipated; 
and  yet  the  addition  of  a  mere  atom  of  some 
other  perfume  may  be  all  that  is  required. 
Thus,  the  flavor  of  star-anise  is  accompanied 
by  a  slight,  but  objectionable  odor  of  bed- 
bugs ;    a  very  small  addition  of  green  anise 
and    fennel    counteracts    this.      Ambergris, 
alone,  gives  scarcely  any  perfume,  but  musk 
brings  it  out.     The  quince    has  a  peculiar 
taste  which  is  corrected  by  cloves ;  the  after- 
taste of  cinnamon  is  also  destroyed  by  cloves ; 
vanilla  has  more  flavor  if  pounded  with  sugar 
than  when  ground  with  it.     Absinthe  requires 
the  zest  of  the  lemon  to  take  away  its  naturally 
bitter  taste.     These  examples  will  show  that 
considerable  experience  is  needed  to  be  able 
to  blend  perfumes  with  any  degree  of  success. 
(See  No.  767.) 

813.  Imitation  Peach  Brandy.    Take 
^  gallon  honey  dissolved  in  water ;  3f  gallons 
alcohol;    £  gallon    Jamaica  rum;    1    ounce 
catechu,  bruised  to  a  paste ;    1  ounce  acetic 
ether.     Add  water  to  make  10  gallons,  fla- 
vored with  4  ounces  of  bitter  almonds.    No 
coloring  required. 


Bltt6rS.  Bitters  are  considered  as 
tonic  and  stomachic,  and  to  improve 
the  appetite  when  taken  in  moderation.  The 
best  time  is  early  in  the  morning,  or  an  hour 
before  meals.  An  excessive  use  of  bitters 
tends  to  weaken  the  stomach.  They  should 
not  be  taken  for  a  longer  period  than  a  fort- 
night at  one  time,  allowing  a  similar  period 
to  elapse  before  again  having  recourse  to 
them. 

815.  To  Make  French  Cognac  Bit- 
ters. Take  1-J  pounds  each  red  Peruvian 
bark,  calisaya  bark,  bitter  orange  peel,  and 
sweet  orange  peel ;  2  ounces  calamus  root ;  4 
ounces  cardamom  seeds ;  1£  ounces  each  cin- 
namon, cloves,  and  nutmegs ;  4  ounces  cara- 
way seed,  and  3  pounds  wild  cherry  bark. 
Pound  all  these  ingredients  to  a  coarse  powder 
and  steep  for  15  days  in  45  gallons  proof 
spirit  (or  60  gallons  spirit  25  below  proof), 


stirring  occasionally.  Then  rack  it  off,  and 
mix  sufficient  caramel  (see  No.  694)  to  make 
it  a  dark  red;  add  15  pounds  white  sugar  dis- 
solved in  15  gallons  water;  let  the  whole 
settle,  then  filter.  If  the  bitters  are  required 
to  be  of  an  amber  color,  omit  the  wild  cherry 
bark  and  the  caramel  coloring. 

816.  To   Make   Angostura   Bitters. 
Take  4  ounces  gentian  root ;  10  ounces  each 
calisaya   bark,   Canada    snake-root,  Yirginia 
snake-root,  liquorice  root,  yellow  bark,  allspice, 
dandelion  root,  and  Angostura  bark ;  6  ounces 
cardamom  seeds;  4  ounces  each  balsam  of  tolu, 
orangetis,  Turkey  rhubarb,  and  galanga;    1 
pound  orange  peel ;  1  pound  alkanet  root ;  1J- 
ounces  caraway  seed  ;  1-J-  ounces  cinnamon ;  i 
ounce  cloves ;  2  ounces  each  nutmegs,  coriander 
seed,  catechu,  and  wormwood;  1  ounce  mace; 
1J  pounds  red  saunders,  and  8  ounces  curcuma. 
Pound  these  ingredients  and  steep  them  as  in 
the  last  receipt,  in  50  gallons  spirit ;  and,  be- 
fore filtering,  add  30  pounds  honev. 

817.  Amazon  Bitters.     Take  90  gal- 
lons plain  proof  spirit ;   3£  pounds  red  Peru- 
vian bark ;    3J    pounds    calisaya   bark ;    1£ 
pounds  calamus  root;  4f  pounds  orange  peel ; 
3k  ounces  cinnamon;  3 i  ounces  cloves;  3  Boun- 
ces nutmeg;  2  ounces  cassia  buds ;  6i  pounds 
red  saunders.     First  mash  all  the  ingredients, 
put  them  in  the  spirit,  and  let  them  infuse  14 
days,  being  careful  to  stir  the  mixture  well 
twice  every  day.    Then  rack  off  and  color 
with  11  pints  brandy  coloring,  to  get  a  dark 
red  tint.     Stir  J  hour.      Dissolve  30  pounds 
white  sugar  in  30  gallons  water;   add,  and 
again  stir  i  hour.    Let  the  mixture  rest  4  or  5 
days,  and  when  bright,  bottle.     If  the  red 
saunders  is  not  used,  the  color  will  be  a  bright 
amber.      This  is  the  finest   bitters    in   the 
market.     Compounded  according  to  the  above 
directions,  the  dealer  will  obtain  120  gallons 
25  below  proof. 

818.  Boker's  Bitters.     Take  li  ounces 
quassia;     Ik    ounces    calamus;     li    ounces 
catechu  (powdered) ;  1  ounce  cardamom ;  2 
ounces    dried    orange    peel.      Macerate    the 
above  10  days  in  i  gallon  strong  whiskey,  and 
then  filter  and  add  2  gallons  Water.      Color 
with  mallow  or  malva  flowers. 

819.  Stoughton  Bitters.    To  12  pounds 
dry  orange  peel,  3  pounds  Virginia  snake- 
root,  1   pound  American  saffron,  16  pounds 
gentian    root,    add    1    pound    red  saunders. 
Grind  all  the  above  ingredients  to  a  coarse 
powder,  and  macerate  for  10  days  in  20  gal- 
lons 65  per  cent,  alcohol,  then  filter. 

820.  Stoughton    Bitters.      (Another 
Eeceipt.)    2  pounds  ginsing;  2  pounds  gen- 
tian root;    li    pounds  dry   orange   peel;    i 
pound  Virginia  snake-root ;  1  ounce  quassia ; 
i  pound  cloves ;  3  ounces  red  saunders  wood ; 
3  gallons  alcohol  95  per  cent.;  3  gallons  soft 
water.     Grind  all  the  ingredients  to  coarse 
powder,  infuse  10  days;  and  filter. 

821.  Wild  Cherry  Bitters.    Take  of 
wild    cherry  bark,   4   pounds;     squaw    vine 
(Partridge  berry),  1  pound ;  Juniper  berries, 
8  ounces.     Pour  boiling  water  over  the  above 
and  let  it  stand  for  24  hours ;  strain,  and  pour 
again  boiling  water  on  the  ingredients;   let 
it  macerate  for  12  hours,  then  express  and 
filter  through  paper,  so  that  the  whole  will 
make  5  gallons,  to  which  add  of  sugar,  3i 
pounds;    molasses,    li  gallons;    tincture  of 


94= 


CIDER. 


peach  kernels,  6  ounces ;  tincture  of  prickly 
ash  berries,  3  ounces;  alcohol,  2  quarts. 

822.  To    Make    Peruvian    Bitters 
Take  8  ounces  red  Peruvian  bark ;  8  ounce 
orange  peel;  1£  drachms  each  cinnamon,  cloves 
and  nutmeg;  and  75  cayenne  pepper  seeds 
Infuse  them,  well  bruised,  in  8  gallons  proo 
spirits,  for  15  to  20  days,  stirring  every  day 
Draw  off  and  filter. 

823.  Brandy  Bitters.     Grind  to  coars 
powder  3  pounds  gentian  root,  2  pounds  dry 
orange  peel,  1  pound  cardamom  seeds,  2  ounces 
cinnamon,  2  ounces    cochineal.      Infuse  10 
days  in  1  gallon  brandy,  8  gallons  water,  and 
filter. 

824.  Nonpareil    Bitters.      Grind    to 
coarse  powder   2  ounces   Peruvian  bark,    j 
ounce    sweet    orange    peel,    i    ounce    bittei 
orange   peel,   25  grains  cinnamon,  25  grains 
cloves,  25  grains  nutmeg,  15  cayenne  seeds 
Infuse  ten  days  in  2  gallons  65  per  cent,  alco- 
hol, then  filter. 

825.  Spanish  Bitters.     Grind  to  coarse 
powder  5  ounces  polypody,  6  ounces  calamus 
root,  8  ounces  orris  root,  2£  ounces  coriander 
seed,  1  ounce  centauriurn,  3  ounces  orange 
peel,  2    ounces   German   camomile  flowers; 
then  macerate  with  4|  gallons  95  per  cent, 
alcohol  and  add  5J  gallons  water  and 
ounces  of  sugar.     Filter  and  color  brown. 

826.  Aromatic  Bitters.     Macerate  2f 
pounds  ground  dried  small  orange  apples, 
pound  ground  dried  orange  peel,  2  ounce 
ground  dried  calamus  root,  2  ounces  ground 
.dried  pimpinella  root,  1  ounce  ground  dried 
cut  hops,  for  14  days,  with  10  gallons  of  spirit 
at  45  per  cent.;  press,  and  add  24  pints  brown 
sugar  syrup.     Filter.     Color  dark  brown. 

827.  Stomach    Bitters.      Grind    to  a 
coarse  powder  i  pound  cardamom  seeds,  | 
pound  nutmegs,  £  pound  grains  of  Paradise,  | 
pound  cinnamon,  £  pound  cloves,  J  pound 

finger,  J  pound  galanga,  £  pound  orange  peel, 
pound  lemon  peel ;  then  macerate  with  4f 
gallons  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  add  a  syrup 
made  of  4i  gallons  water  and  12  pounds  sugar; 
then  filter. 

828.  Hamburg   Bitters.      Grind  to  a 
coarse  powder  2  ounces  agaric,  5  ounces  cin- 
namon, 4  ounces  cassia  buds,  i  ounce  grains 
of  Paradise,  3  ounces  quassia  wood,  £  ounce 
cardamom  seeds,  3  ounces  gentian  root,  3 
ounces  orange  apples  dried,  lit  ounces  orange 
peel ;  macerate  with  4J  gallons  95  per  cent, 
alcohol,  mixed  with  5f  gallons  water;  add  2| 
ounces  acetic  ether.     Color  brown. 

829.  Bitters    made   with  Essences. 
40  gallons  proof  spirit,  1  drachm  oil  of  anise, 
1   drachm   oil  of  caraway,    A   drachm  oil  of 
cloves,  1  drachm  oil  of  lemon,  1  drachm  oil  of 
oranges,  1  drachm  oil  of  cinnamon,  \  drachm 
oil  of  bitter  almonds,  1  gallon  sugar  syrup. 
Cut  the  oils  in  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  mix. 
Color  with  brandy  coloring. 

830.  Bitter  Filter.     A  fine  bitter  filter 
may  be  made  according  to  fig.  5,  JSTo.  17. 

831.  Orange  Bitters.  Macerate  6  pounds 
orange  peel  for  24  hours  with  1  gallon  water, 
cut  the  yellow  part  of  the  peel  from  off  the 
white,  and  chop  it  fine ;   macerate  with  4f 
gallons  95  per  cent,  alcohol  for  two 'weeks, 
or  displace  (see  No.  41);   then  add  a  syrup 
made  of  4£  gallons  water  and  16  pounds  sugar. 
Filter  through  Canton  flannel. 


Cider.  To  make  good  cider  the  ap- 
ples should  be  allowed  to  hang  on  the 
tree  as  long  as  the  wind  and  frosty  nights 
will  let  them.  The  riper  they  are,  the  better 
the  cider.  They  are  picked*  up  and  placed 
in  a  large  heap,  either  in  the  orchard  or  at  the 
cider  mill,  and  are  allowed  to  lie  a  few  days 
to  complete  the  ripening  process,  in  which 
the  starch  is  converted  into  sugar,  and  if  any 
are  found  bruised  or  rotten,  put  them  in  a 
heap  by  themselves,  for  an  inferior  cider  to 
make  vinegar.  They  are  then  rasped  or 
ground  into  pulp.  If  the  weather  is  cool  and 
the  apples  are  not  quite  ripe,  it  is  better  to 
let  the  pulp  remain  in  the  vat  a  few  days  be- 
fore pressing  out  the  juice.  This  gives  the 
cider  a  higher  color,  makes  it  sweeter,  and  of 
better  flavor. 

833.  To  Press  the  Apples.     The  pro- 
cess of  pressing  is  simple,  but  requires  some 
skill.      4    boards  about  6    inches   wide    are 
nailed  together  in  a  square,   the  size  it  is 
desired  to  make  the  cheese,  say  from  4  to  5 
feet.    This  is  placed  on  the  bottom  of  the 
press,  and  a  little  clean  rye  or  wheat  straw, 
pulled  out  straight  into  bundles,  is  put  inside, 
with  the   ends  extending   about   a   foot    all 
around.     The  pulp  is  then  put  into  this  rim, 
forming  a  layer  about  6  inches  thick ;   the 
straw  is  then  turned  on  it,  and  a  little  pulp 
placed  on  the  straw  to  keep  it  down.    The 
rim  is  then  lifted  and  a  stick  is  placed  at  each 
corner  on  the  layer  of  pulp  added,  and  the 
straw  turned  over  it  as  before.     This  process 
is  repeated  until  the  cheese  is  as  large  as  de- 
sired, using  say  from  75  to  100  bushels  of  ap- 
ples.   When  they  can  be  obtained  u?e   hair 
sloths  instead  of  straw,  to  place  between  the 
layers  of  pomace.     The  straw,  when  heated, 
gives  a  disagreeable  taste  to  the  cider. 

834.  Sweet  or  TJnfermented   Cider. 
The  cider  will  commence  to  flow  at  once,  and 
it  is  better  to  let  the  cheese  settle  down  some- 
what before  turning  the  screw.     If  pressed 
;oo  much  at  first,  the  pulp  may  burst  out  at 
the  sides.     As  the  cider  runs  from  the  press, 

et  it  pass  through  a  hair-sieve  into  a  large 
open  vessel,  that  will  hold  as  much  juice  as 
an  be  expressed  in  one  day.  The  cheese  is 
enerally  allowed  to  remain  under  the  press 
all  night,  and  before  leaving  it  in  the  evening, 
;he  screw  is  turned  as  tight  as  possible.  In 
;he  morning  additional  pressure  is  given,  and 
when  the  cider  has  ceased  to  flow,  the  screw 
s  turned  back,  the  boards  taken  off,  and  the 
corners  of  the  cheese  are  cut  off  with  a  hay 
tnife  and  the  pomace  laid  on  the  top.  The 
>ressurc  is  again  applied,  and  the  cider  will 
low  freely.  As  soon  as  it  ceases,  remove  the 
)ressure  and  cut  off' 4  or  5  inches  of  pomace 
rorn  the  sides  of  the  cheese,  place  it  on  top, 
ind  apply  the  pressure  again  as  long  as  any 
3ider  will  flow.  8  bushels  of  good  apples  will 
make  a  ban-el  of  cider.  In  a  day,  or  some- 
imes  less,  the  pomace  will  rise  to  the  top, 
ind  in  a  short  time  grow  very  thick ;  when 
ittle  white  bubbles  break  through  it,  draw  off 
he  liquor  by  a  spigot  placed  about  3  inches 
rom  the  bottom,  so  that  the  lees  may  be  left 
iuietly  behind.  The  cider  is  usually  put  in 
iarrels  at  once,  and  sold  while  sweet. 

835.  To    Preserve    Cider.      Strictly 
peaking,  we  suppose  the  sweet  juice  of  the 


CIDER. 


95 


apple  is  not  cider,  any  more  than  the  sweet 
juice  of  the  grape  is  wine.  It  is  converted 
'into  cider  by  fermentation.  Those  who  pre- 
fer sweet  cider  resort  to  various  methods  for 
arresting  this  process,  such  as  putting  a  hand- 
ful of  powdered  clay  into  each  barrel,  or  2  or 
3  pounds  of  well  burned  charcoal.  Others 
add  a  little  mustard  seed,  about  a  gill  of  seed 
to  each  barrel.  Sometimes  a  few  gallons  of 
cider  are  placed  in  the  barrel,  and  then  a  rag 
dipped  in  brimstone  is  attached  to  a  long  ta- 
pering bung;  this  is  ignited  and  the  bung 
loosely  inserted.  After  the  brimstone  is  con- 
sumed, the  barrel  is  rolled  until  the  cider  has 
absorbed  the  sulphurous  acid  gas.  The  barrel 
is  then  filled  up  with  cider.  The  sulphurous 
acid  gas  acting  on  the  albuminous  matter  in 
the  cider  arrests  fermentation.  The  objection 
to  this  method  is  that,  if  too  much  gas  is  ab- 
sorbed, it  may  prove  unpleasant,  if  not  inju- 
rious. To  obviate  this,  sulphite  of  lime  is 
now  used,  which  has  the  property  of  checking 
fermentation,  making  the  cider  perfectly  clear, 
and  imparting  an  agreeable  taste.  "We  have 
tasted  cider  preserved  in  this  way  that  was 
excellent,  and  we  have  also  tasted  some  that 
was  execrable ;  but  this  may  have  been  more 
the  fault  of  the  material  than  of  the  method. 
When  the  cider  in  the  barrel  is  in  a  lively  fer- 
mentation, add  as  much  white  sugar  as  will 
be  equal  to  i  or  I  pound  to  each  gallon  of 
cider  (according  as  the  apples  are  sweet  or 
sour),  let  the  fermentation  proceed  until  the 
liquid  has  the  taste  to  suit,  then  add  i  ounce 
of  sulphite  (not  sulphate)  of  lime  to  each 
gallon  of  cider ;  shake  well,  and  let  it  stand  3 
days,  and  bottle  for  use.  The  sulphite  should 
first  be  dissolved  in  a  quart  or  so  of  cider 
before  introducing  it  into  the  barrel  of  cider. 
Agitate  briskly  and  thoroughly  for  a  few 
moments,  and  then  let  the  cider  settle.  The 
fermentation  will  cease  at  once.  "When,  after 
a  few  days,  the  cider  has  become  clear,  draw 
off  and  bottle  carefully,  or  remove  the  sedi- 
ment and  return  to  the  original  vessel.  If 
loosely  corked,  or  kept  in  a  barrel  on  draught, 
it  will  retain  its  taste  as  a  still  cider.  If  pre- 
served in  bottles  carefully  corked,  which  is 
better,  it  will  become  a  sparkling  cider,  and 
may  be  kept  indefinitely  long.  (See  Nos.  762 
$c.)  Some  think  that  cider,  when  treated  by 
this  method,  is  liable  to  induce  cramps  and 
loss  of  appetite,  but  we  have  never  experienced 
any  such  unpleasant  results  from  its  use. 
Another  plan,  which,  however,  we  have  not 
tried,  but  is  strongly  recommended,  is  to  mix 
1  pint  of  hard-wood  ashes  (hickory  is  best) 
and  1  pint  fresh  slaked  lime  with  1  quart  of 
new  milk ;  this  mixture  is  to  be  stirred  into 
each  open  barrel  of  cider;  after  remaining 
quiet  for  about  10  hours  the  pomace  will  rise 
to  the  surface,  and  may  be  skimmed  off;  the 
clear  cider  can  be  drawn  off  by  means  of  a  fau- 
cet inserted  near  the  bottom  of  the  barrel ;  it 
is  advisable  to  strain  it  as  it  is  drawn  oft',  to 
separate  any  hardened  pomace  that  may  re- 
main in  it.  (See  Nos.  852  and  853.)  What- 
ever method  be  adopted,  the  cider  must  be 
drawn  off  into  very  clean,  sweet  casks,  and 
closely  watched.  The  moment  white  bubbles 
are  perceived  rising  at  the  bung-hole,  rack  it 
again.  "When  the  fermentation  is  completely 
at  an  end,  fill  up  the  cask  with  cider  in  all 
respects  like  that  already  contained  in  it,  and 


bung  it  up  tight.  The  most  perfect  plan  for 
excluding  all  action  of  the  air  from  the  sur- 
face of  the  cider,  and  preserving  it  sweet,  is 
the  addition  of  a  tumbler  of  sweet  oil  before 
finally  closing  the  bung-hole.  It  is  not  an 
easy  matter  to  keep  cider  sweet  and  pure  for 
any  length  of  time,  especially  if  the  weather 
is  warm.  If  the  cider  is  not  made  until  just 
before  winter  sets  in,  and  can  afterwards  bo 
kept  at  or  near  the  freezing  point,  it  will  re- 
main sweet  and  excellent. 

836.  Rules  for  Making  Good  Pure 
Cider.  Always  choose  perfectly  ripe  and 
sound  fruit. 

Pick  the  apples  from  the  tree  by  hand. 
Apples  that  have  been  on  the  ground  any 
length  of  time  contract  an  earthy  flavor, 
which  will  always  be  found  in  the  cider. 

After  sweating,  and  before  being  ground, 
wipe  them  dry,  and  if  any  are  found  bruised 
or  rotten,  put  them  in  a  heap  by  themselves, 
from  which  to  make  an  inferior  cider  for 
vinegar. 

As  fast  as  the  apples  are  ground,  the  pomace 
should  be  placed  in  a  previously  prepared  open 
vat,  of  suitable  size,  and  with  a  false  bottom, 
strainer,  or  clean  straw  aboutit.  Letthepomace 
remain  about  one  day,  then  draw  off,  return 
the  first,  and  continue  to  do  so  until  it  runs 
clear.  Let  the  juice  percolate  or  filter  for 
one  or  more  days.  The  cider  thus  extracted 
will  compare  closely  with  any  clear,  rich 
syrup,  and  is  alone  deserving 'the  name  of 
temperance  cider,  and  may  be  drank,  or  used 
for  many  purposes,  as  a  choice  and  superior 
article.  In  this  way,  about  one-third  of  the 
cider  will  separate ;  the  balance  may  then  be 
expressed  by  the  use  of  the  press. 

To  press  out  the  juice,  use  a  clean  strainer 
cloth  inside  the  curb,  with  some  clean  straw 
intermixed  in  thin  layers  with  the  pomace, 
and  apply  the  power  moderately. 

As  the  cider  runs  from  the  vat  or  press, 
place  it  in  a  clean,  sweet  cask  or  open  tub, 
which  should  be  closely  watched,  and  as  soon 
as  the  little  bubbles  commence  to  rise  at  the 
bung-hole  or  top,  it  should  be  racked  off  by  a 
spigot  or  faucet  placed  about  2  inches  from 
the  bottom,  so  that  the  lees  or  sediment  may 
be  left  quietly  behind. 

The  vinous  fermentation  will  commence 
sooner  or  later,  depending  chiefly  upon  the 
temperature  of  the  apartment  where  the 
cider  is  kept;  in  most  cases,  during  the  first  3 
or  4  days.  If  the  fermentation  begins  early 
and  proceeds  rapidly,  the  liquor  must  be 
racked  or  drawn  off  and  put  into  fresh  casks 
in  1  or  2  days ;  but  if  this  does  not  take  place 
at  an  early  period,  but  proceeds  slowly,  three 
or  four  days  may  elapse  before  it  is  racked.  In 
general,  it  is  necessary  to  rack  the  liquor  at 
least  twice.  If,  notwithstanding,  the  fermen- 
tation continues  briskly,  the  racking  must  he 
repeated,  otherwise  the  vinous  fermentation, 
by  proceeding  too  far,  may  terminate  in  acetous 
fermentation,  when  vinegar  will  be  the  result. 
In  racking  off  the  liquor,  it  is  necessary  to 
keep  it  free  from  sediment,  and  the  scum  or 
yeast  produced  by  the  fermentation.  "When 
the  fermentation  is  completely  at  an  end,  fill 
up  the  cask  with  cider  in  all  respects  like  that 
contained  in  it,  and  bung  it  up  tight,  previous 
to  which  a  tumbler  of  sweet  oil  may  bo 
poured  into  the  bung-hole,  which  will  exclude 


96 


CIDER. 


the  oxygen  and  prevent  the  oxidation  of  the 
surface  of  the  wine. 

Sound,  well  made  cider,  that  has  been  pro- 
duced as  above  directed,  and  without  any 
foreign  mixtures,  is  a  pleasant,  cooling  and 
wholesome  beverage ;  while,  on  the  contrary, 
the  acids  and  drugs  added  to  already  impure 
liquor,  retard  fermentation,  thus  adding  poison 
to  poison,  producing  colic,  and  notunfrequently 
incurable  obstructions. 

837.  To  Make  Good  Fermented  Cider. 
To  make  good  fermented  cider  that  will  keep 
a  year  or  more  without  turning  too  sour  to  be 
used  for  anything  but  vinegar,  is  not  a  diffi- 
cult matter.     The  first  thing  is  to  exclude  all 
decayed  fruit,   but  it  should  be  quite  ripe. 
Not  a  drop  of  water  should  be  used  in  the 
process  of   manufacture.     The   sweeter    the 
juice,  the  stronger  the  cider,  and  the  better  it 
will  keep.     Put  the  ban-el  immediately  in  a 
cool  cellar — the  cooler  the  better.    The  fer- 
mentation may  go  on  slowly  or  rapidly,  prac- 
tice differing  in  this  respect.    In  the  former 
case  the  liquid  is  treated  in  all  respects  like 
wine.    The  cask  has  a  bung  in  which  is  fixed, 
air-tight,  a  tin  tube  bent  at  right  angles,  or  a 
piece  of  india-rubber  tube.     The  free  end  of 
the  tube  in  either  case  dips  into  a  vessel  of 
water.     This  arrangement  allows  the  gases 
liberated  in  fermentation  to  pass  out,  and  the 
end  of  the  tube  being  covered  with  water,  air 
cannot   pass  in.    The  bubbling  of  the  gas 
through  the  water  shows  how  the  fermenta- 
tion is  progressing.    "When  this  has  ceased, 
the  cider  is  racked  off  into  clean  casks,  which 
are  to  be  full  and  bunged  tightly.    Much  of 
the  excellence  of  cider  depends  upon  the  tem- 
perature at  which  the  fermentation  is  con- 
ducted;  a  point  utterly  overlooked  by  the 
manufacturers  of  this  liquor.     Instead  of  the 
apple  juice,  as  soon  as  it  is  expressed  from  the 
fruit,  being  placed  in  a  cool  situation,  where 
the  temperature  should  not  exceed  50°  or  52° 
Fahr.,  it  is  frequently  left  exposed  to  the  full 
heat  of  autumn.    In  this  way  much  of  the 
alcohol  formed  by  the  decomposition  of  the 
sugar  is  converted  into  vinegar,  by  the  absorp- 
tion of  atmospheric  oxygen,   and  thus  the 
liquor  acquires  that  peculiar  and  unwhole- 
some   acidity    known    as     "hardness"    or 
"roughness."    "When,  on  the  contrary,   the 
fermentation  is  conducted  at  a  low  tempera- 
ture, nearly  the  whole  of  the  sugar  is  con- 
verted into  alcohol,  and  this  remains  in  the 
liquor,  instead  of  undergoing  the  process  of 
acetification. 

838.  To   Make   Fine  Cider  by  An- 
other Process.     After  obtaining  the  juice 
as  already  directed  (see  No.  836),  strain  it 
through  a  coarse  hair-sieve  into  open  vats  or 
close  casks.    "When  the  liquor  has  undergone 
the  proper  fermentation  in  these  close  vessels, 
which  may  be  best  effected  in  a  temperature 
of  from  40°  to  55°  Fahr.,  and  which  may  be 
known  by  its  appearing  tolerably  clear,  and  hav- 
ing a  vinous  sharpness  upon  the  tongue,  any 
further  fermentation  must  be  stopped  by  rack- 
ing off  the  pure  part  into  open  vessels,  exposed 
for  a  day  or  two  in  a  cool  situation.     After 
this  the  liquor  must  again  be  put  into  casks 
and  kept  in  a  cool  place  during  winter.    The 

E roper  time  for  racking  may  always  be  known 
y  the  brightness  of  the  liquor,  the  discharge 
of  the  fixed  air,  and  the  appearance  of  a  thick 


crust  formed  of  fragments  of  the  reduced 
pulp.  The  liquor  should  always  be  racked 
off  anew,  as  often  as  a  hissing  noise  is  heard, 
or  as  it  extinguishes  a  lighted  match  held  to 
the  bung-hole.  "When  a  favorable  vinous 
fermentation  has  been  obtained,  nothing  more 
is  required  than  to  fill  up  the  vessels  every 
two  or  three  weeks,  to  supply  the  waste  by 
fermentation.  By  the  beginning  of  March 
the  liquor  will  be  bright  and  pure,  and  fit  for 
final  racking,  which  should  be  done  iu  fair 
weather.  "When  the  bottles  are  filled,  they 
should  be  set  by,  uncorked,  till  morning,  when 
the  corks  must  be  driven  in  tightly,  secured 
by  wire  or  twine  and  melted  resin,  or  any 
similar  substance. 

839.  To   Prepare   Casks   for   Cider. 
Cider  should  never  be  put  into  new  casks 
without  previously  scalding  them  with  water 
containing  salt,  or  with  water  in  which  pomace 
has  been  boiled.    Beer  casks  should  never  be 
used  for  cider,  or  cider  casks  for  beer.    "Wine 
and  brandy  casks  will  keep  cider  well,  if  the 
tartar  adhering  to  their  sides  is  first  carefully 
scraped  off  and  the  casks  be  well  scalded. 
Burning  a  little  sulphur  in  a  cask  will  effectu- 
ally remove  must. 

840.  Canned  Cider.     Cider  may  be  pre- 
served  sweet  for  years,  by  putting  it  up  in 
air-tight  cans  after  the  manner  of  preserving 
fruit.     The  cider  should  be  first  settled  and 
racked  off  from  the  dregs,  but  fermentation 
should  not  be  allowed  to  commence  before 
canning. 

841.  To  Cleanse  Cider  Barrels.    Take 
lime  water  and  a  trace  chain  and  put  them  in 
the  barrel  through  the  bung-hole,  first  secur- 
ing a  strong  twine  to  the  chain  to  draw  it  out 
with.     Then  shake  the  barrel  about  until  the 
chain  wears  or  scours  off  all  mould  or  pomace 
remaining  in  the  barrel.    Then  rinse  well  with 
water;  after  throwing  out  the  rinsing  water 
put  in  a  little  whiskey,  turning  the  ban-el  to 
bring  it  in  contact  wi'th  every  part,  and  pour 
out  all  you  can. 

842.  To  Clarify  and  Improve  Cider. 
Cider  should  be  stored  in  a  cool  place,  and 
should  not  be  drunk  before  it  becomes  suffi- 
ciently matured.     To  improve  the  flavor  of  a 
hogshead  of  cider,  1£  gallons  of  good  brandy 
or  rum  are  frequently  added,  with  2  ounces 
powdered    catechu    (dissolved  in  water),   7 
pounds  good  moist  sugar  or  honey,  •£  ounce 
each  bitter  almonds  and  cloves,  and  4  ounces 
mustard  seed.     These  must  be  well  stirred  in, 
and  occasionally   stirred  up  for  a  fortnight, 
after  which  it  must  be  allowed  to  repose  for 
3  or  4  months,  when  it  will  usually  be  found 
as  bright  as  wine.     Should  this  not  be  the 
case  it  must  be  fined  with  a  pint  of  isinglass 
finings,  or  a  dozen  eggs,  and  in  2  weeks  more 
it  will  be  fit  for  use.     If  the  cider  be  preferred 
pale,  omit  the  catechu,  and  instead  of  the  isin- 
glass, fine  with  1  quart  of  skimmed  milk.     If 
wanted  of  a  light  reddish  or  rose  tint,  use  $ 
ounce  cochineal,  and  omit  the  catechu. 

843.  To  Bottle  Cider.     Preparatory  to 
bottling  cider  it  should'  be  examined  to  see 
whether  it  is  clear  and  sparkling;  if  not,  it 
should  be  clarified  again,  and  left  for  two 
weeks.    The  night  before  it  is  intended  to  be 
put  into  bottles,  the  bung  should  be  left  out 
of  the  cask,  and  left  so  until  the  next  day, 
when  it  may  be  bottled,  but  not  corked  down 


BREWING. 


97 


an  til  the  day  after,  as,  if  this  be  done  at  once, 
many  of  the  bottles  will  burst  by  keeping. 
The  best  corks  and  champagne  bottles  should 
be  used,  and  it  is  usual  to  wire  and  cover  the 
corks  with  tin-foil,  after  the  manner  of  cham- 
pagne. A  few  bottles  may  be  kept  in  a  warm 
place  to  ripen,  or  a  small  piece  of  lump  sugar 
may  be  put  into  each  bottle  before  corking,  if 
wanted  for  immediate  use,  or  for  consumption 
during  the  cooler  portion  of  the  year ;  but  for 
warm  weather  and  for  long  keeping  this  is 
inadmissable.  The  bottled  stock  should  be 
stored  in  a  cool  cellar,  where  the  quality  will 
be  greatly  improved  by  age. 

844.  Champagne  Cider.    Good  cider, 
pale,  1  hogshead ;  spirit,  3  gallons ;  honey  or 
sugar,  20   pounds.    Mix  and  let  them  rest 
for  2  weeks,  then  fine  with  skimmed  milk, 
•J  gallon.     This  will  be  very  pale;    and  a 
similar  article,  when  bottled  in  champagne 
bottles,  and  silvered  and  labeled,  has  been 
often  sold  to  the  ignorant  for  champagne.    It 
opens  very  brisk  if  managed  properly. 

845.  Fine  Champagne  Cider  is  made 
as  follows : — To  100  gallons  of  good  cider  put 
3  gallons  of  strained  honey,  or  24  pounds  of 
good  white  sugar.     Stir  well  and  set  it  aside 
for  a  week.     Clarify  the  cider  with  half  a  gal- 
lon of  skimmed  milk,  or  i  pound  of  dissolved 
isinglass,  and  add  4   gallons  of  pure  spirits. 
After  2  or  3  days  bottle  the  clear  cider,  and  it 
will  become  sparkling.     In  order  to  produce 
a  slow  fermentation,  the  casks  containing  the 
fermenting  liquor  must  be  bunged  up  tight. 
It  is  a  great  object  to  retain  much  of  the  car- 
bonic gas  in  the  cider,  so  as  to  develop  itself 
after  being  bottled. 

846.  Champagne  Cider.     (Another re- 
ceipt.)   10  gallons  of  cider,  old  and  clear. 
Put  it  in  a  strong  iron-bound  cask,  pitched 
inside  (like  beer-casks) ;  add  2i  pints  clarified 
white  plain  syrup ;  then  dissolve  in  it  5  ounces 
tartaric  acid ;  keep  the  bung  ready  in  hand, 
then  add  7-J-  ounces  of  bicarbonate  of  potassa ; 
bung  it  as  quickly  and  as  well  as  possible. 

847.  To  Imitate  Champagne  Cider. 
Cider  will  resemble  champagne  if  you  put 
a  tea-spoonful  carbonate  of  soda,  2  tea-spoon- 
fuls fine  sugar,  and  a  table- spoonful  brandy  in 
a  tumbler,  and  fill  it  up  with  sharp  cider. 

848.  How  to  Imitate  Cider.    A  very 
fair  imitation  cider  may  be  produced  by  using 
the  following  receipt : — 25  gallons  soft  water ; 
2  pounds  tartaric  acid;  25  pounds  N"ew  Or- 
leans sugar ;  1  pint  yeast.     Put  all  the  ingre- 
dients into  a  clean  cask  and  stir  them  up  well 
after  standing  24  hours  with  the  bung  out. 
Then  bung  the  cask  up  tight,  add  3  gallons 
spirits,  and  let  it  stand  48  hours,  after  which 
time  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

849.  To  Imitate  Sweet  Cider.     Take 
water,  100  gallons  ;  honey,  5  gallons ;  catechu 
powdered,  3  ounces ;  alum,  5  ounces ;  yeast,  2 
pints.     Ferment  for  15  days  in  a  warm  place 
(in  the   sun  if   possible);    then    add   bitter 
almonds,  i  pound;   cloves,   h  pound;   burnt 
sugar,  2  pints ;  whiskey,  3  gallons.     If  acid 
be  in  excess,   correct    by  adding  honey  or 
sugar.     If  too  sweet,  add  sulphuric  acid  to 
suit  the  taste.     We  should  prefer  to  add  cider 
vinegar  for  acidulating  when  necessary. 

850.  Cheap    Imitatipn    Cider.     Take 
water,  35  gallons ;  sulphuric  acid,  enough  to 
make  the  water  pleasantly  sour ;  brown  sugar, 


50  pounds ;  alum,  4  ounces ;  ginger,  5  ounces ; 
cloves,  5  ounces;  bitter  almonds,  6  ounces. 
Boil  the  last  4  ingredients  in  2  gallons  of  the 
water  for  2  hours,  strain,  and  add,  this  decoc- 
tion to  the  other  water.  Burnt  sugar  may  be 
added,  to  color,  if  wished.  From  3  to  4  gal- 
lons of  whiskey,  if  mixed  with  it,  will  give 
more  body.  It  is  generally  known,  we  sup- 
pose, that  bisulphite  of  lime  may  be  advan- 
tageously employed  in  fresh  cider  to  stop  its 
conversion  to  vinegar.  (See  No.  835.) 

85 1 .  Cheap-made  Cider.    Take  of  good 
cider  and  water,  1  hogshead  each ;  molasses, 
50  pounds ;  alum,  dissolved,  i  pound.     Brim- 
stone matches  to  stop  fermentation,  by  burning. 

852.  To   Keep  Cider    Sweet.    Allow 
the  cider  to  work  until  it  has  reached  the  state 
most  desirable  to  the  taste,  then  add  Ik  tum- 
blers grated  horseradish  to  each  barrel,  and 
shake  up  well.     This  arrests  further  fermenta- 
tion.   After  remaining  a  few  weeks,  rack  off 
and  bung  up  closely  in  clean  casks. 

853.  To   Clear   Cider.    To   clear   and 
improve    cider    generally,  take  2  quarts  of 
ground  horseradish   and  1   pound  of  thick 
gray  filtering  paper  to  the  barrel,  and  either 
shake  or  stir  until  the  paper  has  separated 
into  small  shreds,  and  let   it  stand  for  24 
hours,  when  the  cider  may  be  drawn  off  by 
means  of  a  syphon  or  a  stop-cock.    Instead  of 
paper,  a  preparation  of  wool  may  be  taken, 
which  is  to  be  had  in  the  market  here,  and 
which  is  preferable  to  paper,  as  it  has  simply 
to  be  washed  with  water,  when  it  may  be  used 
again. 

854.  To  Clean  a  Foul,  Sour  Cask,  and 
Restore  the    Taste   of  the   Wood.    In 
order  to  accomplish  this,  dissolve  about  1£ 
pounds  lime  in  5  gallons  boiling  water.    Rinse 
the  cask  to  be  restored  with  this  liquid,  and 
afterwards  with  boiling  water.    If  the  cask 
is  very  foul,  it  should  also  be  rinsed  with  very 
dilute  sulphuric  acid  after  the  lime  water,  and 
afterwards  with  boiling  water.    As  a  general 
thing,  however,  the  lime  water  and  boiling 
water  are  sufficient.     To  restore  the  natural 
taste  of  the  wood,  mash  up  in  a  mortar  a 
handful  of  juniper  berries  and  put  them  in  the 
tainted  cask,  then  pour  over  them  several  gal- 
lons boiling  water,  roll  the  cask  violently,  and 
set  it  first  on  one  end,  and  then  upon   the 
other. 

855.  To  Make    Barrels  Tight.    Dis- 
solve in  a  water-bath  1  pound  leather  scraps 
and  1  ounce  oxalic  acid,  in  2  pounds  water, 
and  dilute  gradually  with  3  pounds  warm 
water.    Apply  this  solution  to  the  inside  of 
the  barrel,  where,  by  oxidation,  it  will  assume 
a  brown  color  and  become  insoluble  in  alco- 
hol.   This  coat  closes  all  the  pores  of  the 
wood,  and  does  not  crack  or  scale  off. 


Brewing.  The  art  of  brewing  is 
simply  and  easily  understood,  clean- 
liness and  attention  being  the  principal  points 
to  be  considered.  It  consists  of  five  opera- 
tions, namely :  mashing,  boiling,  cooling,  fer- 
menting, and  cleaning.  The  first  process  is 
simply  to  obtain  an  infusion  of  the  malt.  In 
the  second,  this  infusion  of  malt  is  further 
impregnated  with  the  flavor  of  the  hops  in 
the  boiling,  which  is  requisite  for  the  preser- 


98 


BREWING. 


vation  of  the  beer.  In  the  third,  this  decoc- 
tion or  infusion  is  cooled  down  to  the  necessary 
heat  for  fermentation,  -which  is  excited  with 
yeast,  and  .which  fills  it  with  carbonic  gas, 
giving  to  the  liquor  that  pungent  taste  for 
which  it  is  esteemed.  After  this  it  is  fined, 
or  cleansed,  to  render  it  fit  for  drinking. 

857.  Brewing  Utensils.     These  uten- 
sils in  a  small  way  (say  for  a  hogshead,  or  54 
gallons  of  beer ),  will  consist  of  a  copper  capable 
of  containing  about  70  gallons ;   and  if  the 
brick  edge  at  the  top  is  made  sloping,  and 
covered  with  lead,  it  will  prevent  any  waste 
of  the  wort  in  the  boiling.     A  mash  tub,  with 
a  false  bottom  about  3  inches  above  the  other 
bottom,  bored  full  of  small  holes,  to  prevent 
the  malt  stopping  up  the  hole  of  the  faucet. 
In  many  cases,  for  the  sake  of  economy,  an 
old  worn-out    birch-broom   is  cleaned    and 
fastened  before  the  hole  of  the  faucet;  and 
others  again  have  two  pieces  of  wood  nailed 
together,  and  bored  full  of  holes,  which  is 
fitted  to  the  side  of  the  tub,  so  as  to  cover 
the  hole  of  the  faucet.    Any  one  of  these 
contrivances  is  to  prevent  the  malt  or  grains 
from  flowing  out  with  the  wort,  which  would 
spoil  its  transparency.     The  tub  must  be  suffi- 
ciently large  to  hold  10  or  12  bushels  of  malt, 
with  plenty  of  room  for  mashing  or  stirring. 
An  underback,  to  receive  the  wort  from  the 
mash  tub.    An  oar,  or  rudder,  to  stir  up  the 
malt  in  the  mash  tub.    Two  or  three  coolers. 
These  should  be  broad  and  flat,  that  the  wort 
may  cool  quickly ;  for  if  the  wort  is  too  long 
cooling,  it  is  likely  to  become  sour  in  the 
coolers.    These  should  also  be  raised  a  little 
at  one  end,  that  the  wort  may  be  run  off  at 
the  lower  end  without  being  disturbed  or 
shaken,  and  also  that  the  sediment  which  falls 
down  may  not  be  again  mixed  with  the  wort. 
A   fermenting    tun.    The    mash-tub,    when 
emptied  of  the  grains,  will  also  serve  for  this 
purpose.     Casks,  and  oak  stands  for  the  casks 
and  tubs  to  be  placed  on.     The  whole  of  these 
articles  should  be  of  a  suitable  size  with  the 
copper,  which  the  cooper  will  always  regulate, 
or  m  proportion  to  the  quantity  intended  to  be 
brewed. 

858.  Mashing.     The  purpose  of  mash- 
ing is  to  convert  as  much  of  the  flour  of  the 
malt  as  possible  into  sugar,  so  that  the  extract 
drawn  from   it    may    contain    the    greatest 
amount  of  saccharine  matter  which  it  is  capa- 
ble of  giving.    To  accomplish  this  perfectly 
will  depend  upon  many  contingencies — the 
heat  of  the  water  used  in  mashing,  its  quality, 
whether  hard  or  soft,  the  most  perfect  mixing 
of  the  malt  with  the  water,  and  the  time  of 
their  remaining  together.     High-dried  malt 
does  not  produce  so  much  saccharine  matter 
as  pale  malt.     On  the  proper  temperature  of 
the  liquor  used  will  depend  the  goodness, 
flavor,  and  clearness  of  the  extract  drawn. 
When  too  high,  or  near  the  boiling  point, 
the    flour    of  the  malt  will   be    set,  form- 
ing a  kind  of  paste  or  starch,  and  the  extract 
obtained  will  be  little  better  than  water.    The 
surface  of  the  grains  after  the  mashing  process 
is  concluded  will  be  covered  with  specks  of 
•white  meal.    The  same  appearance  also  shows 
itself  when  unmalted  corn  has  been  mixed 
with  the  malt.     If  the  temperature  be  too 
low,  the  wort  will  be  poor  and  devoid  of 
strength,  because  the  heat  of  the  water  is  not 


sufficient  to  convert  the  flour  of  the  malt  into 
sugar,  or  to  extract  the  saccharine  matter 
from  it.  For  pale  malt  the  heat  of  the  wa- 
ter must  be  higher  than  for  brown,  and  so 
much  the  lower  in  proportion  as  the  malt  is 
browner.  Thus,  for  the  pale  malt,  the  heat 
of  the  water  for  the  first  mash  should  be  178° 
Fahr.;  for  the  second,  182°.  Pale  and  amber 
mixed,  or  pale  malt  approaching  to  amber, 
172°  for  the  first  mash ;  second,  178°.  All 
amber,  the  first  170° ;  second,  176°.  For 
very  brown,  or  brown  malt,  such  as  is  used 
for  porter,  154°  for  the  first;  second,  164°. 
When  hard  water  is  used,  the  heat  in  each 
case  should  be  about  2°  less.  An  equal  por- 
tion of  pale,  amber,  and  brown,  or  half  pale 
and  half  brown — first  heat,  160° ;  second, 
166°.  The  time  for  the  standing  of  the  mash 
is  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours?.  In 
the  summer  months  the  mash  should  not 
stand  so  long  by  a  quarter  of  an  hour  as  it 
does  in  the  winter.  Heat  the  water  in  the 
copper  to  the  required  degree  by  Fahrenheit's 
thermometer.  In  taking  the  heat  in  the  cop- 
per, if  it  is  too  hot,  add  cold  liquor  to  bring  it 
to  the  desired  degree;  but  be  careful  to  stir 
the  hot  and  cold  well  together  and  mix  it  in- 
timately, because  the  cold  water,  being  heav- 
ier than  the  hot,  sinks  to  the  bottom.  The 
heat  of  the  water  being  now  reduced  to  the 
proper  degree  in  the  tun,  the  malt  must  be 
stirred  in  gradually.  It  is  best  for  one  person 
to  throw  it  in  whilst  another  mixes  it  well 
and  thoroughly  by  means  of  the  oar,  so  that 
there  may  be  no  lumps  or  clots  of  malt  left 
hi  it.  The  remainder  of  the  water  should  be 
added  by  degrees,  as  the  mash  becomes  too 
stiff  to  stir,  until  the  whole  is  used.  Reserve 
about  i  bushel  of  the  malt  to  throw  over  the 
top  when  the  mashing  is  finished.  Cover  the 
top  of  the  tun  with  malt-sacks  or  cloths,  to 
keep  in  the  heat,  and  let  it  stand  the.  required 
time.  Turn  the  tap  partially,  to  allow  the 
wort  to  run  out  slowly,  and  draw  off  some  in 
a  pail  or  bucket.  As  the  first  running  will 
not  be  clear,  it  must  be  put  gently  back  into 
the  tun ;  and  if  the  second  running  is  not 
sufficiently  clear,  turn  the  tap  again,  and  let 
it  remain  a  few  minutes  before  drawing  it  off; 
then  turn  the  tap  partially  as  before,  and 
draw  it  off  into  the  underback,  which  must  be 
placed  underneath  to  receive  it.  As  the  wort 
runs  out  more  slowly,  the  tap  must  be  turned 
more  fully,  until  the  whole  is  nearly  run  out, 
and  the  bed  of  the  grains  looks  dry ;  then 
turn  the  tap,  to  prevent  any  more  running 
off.  While  the  mash  is  standing,  the  copper 
should  be  again  filled  with  water,  and  heated 
to  the  required  degree  for  the  second  mash;  this 
should  be  ready  by  the  time  the  first  wort  is 
drawn  off;  then,  with  a  bowl  or  ladle,  pour 
over  the  top  of  the  grains,  as  gently  as  possible, 
about  half  as  much  water  as  for  the  first; 
cover  the  mash-tun,  let  it  remain  about  ten 
minutes  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  draw  it 
off  as  before,  pouring  back  the  first  running 
until  it  is  fine.  The  wort  from  the  first 
mashing  is  always  the  best  and  richest  in 
saccharine  or  sweet  matter.  The  proportion 
of  wort  to  be  obtained  from  each  bushel  of 
malt  depends  entirely  on  the  proposed  strength 
of  the  liquor  required.  To  ale  or  beer  of  a 
superior  kind  the  produce  only  of  the  first 
mashing  should  be  used.  For  ordinary  or 


BREWING. 


99 


usual  drinking  ale,  take  the  produce  of  the 
first  and  second  mashings,  mix  them  well, 
and  ascertain  the  gravity  by  a  saccharometer. 
This  is  an  instrument  used  by  brewers  for  as- 
certaining the  strength  of  wort ;  it  is  similar 
in  principle  to  the  hydrometer,  but  its  scale 
denotes  the  pounds  per  barrel  m  excess  of  the 
weight  of  a  barrel  of  water.  The  barrel  or 
36  gallons  of  water  weighs  360  pounds ;  and, 
in  examining  a  quantity  of  wort,  if  the  sac- 
charometer marks  60,  it  means  that  a  barrel 
(36  gallons)  of  the  wort  would  weigh  60  pounds 
more  than  a  barrel  of  water,  or  420  pounds. 
It  is  a  sort  of  specific  gravity,  in  which  360 
is  the  unit  instead  of  1000 ;  from  which  it 
can  be  seen  that  a  saccharometer  gravity  of 
420,  as  compared  with  360,  would  be  the  same 
as  1166$  true  specific  gravity  as  compared  with 
1000.  Some  brewers  express  the  strength  of 
their  wort  by  the  whole  weight  of  a  barrel, 
others  use  only  the  excess  of  weight ;  thus,  in 
the  example  above,  some  would  call  it  wort 
of  420  pounds,  others  would  say  60  pounds ; 
either  way  is  plain;  the  figures  showing 
which  plan  is  adopted.  The  usual  limit  for 
ale  or  beer  is  from  50  to  60  pounds,  and  for 
a  very  strong  ale  from  90  to  120  pounds 
per  barrel.  That  made  at  the  first  gravity 
will  be  a  brisk,  lively  and  sparkling  drink; 
but  the  last  will  be  more  heavy  and  glutinous, 
and  can  only  be  imperfectly  fermented. 

859.  Boiling.     As  soon  as  the  water  is 
taken  from  the  copper  for  the    table-beer, 
damp  the  fire  with  ashes  or  cinders,  and  put 
in  the  wort.     For  every  bushel  of  malt  used, 
allow  1  pound  hops,  previously  soaked  in  wa- 
ter taken  from  the  first  mash  at  160°  of  heat ; 
add  half   of  them  at  first,   and   the    other 
half  after  the  wort  has  boiled  half  an  hour. 
2  pounds  of  hops  by  this  method  are  consid- 
ered to  be  equal  to  3  pounds  used  in  the 
ordinary  way.     The  water  in  which  they  are 
steeped  is  strained  off  and  put  into  the  tun 
instead  of  the  copper,  which  preserves  the 
flavor  of  the  hops.    Let  the  wort  boil  as 
briskly  as  possible,  for  the  quicker  it  is  boiled 
the  sooner  it  will  break.     Try  it  occasionally 
in  a  glass,  and  see  if  it  has  separated  into 
large  flakes ;  if  it  has  not,   boil  it  a  little 
longer ;   when  nearly  ready,  it  will  appear  to 
be  broken  into  fine  particles.     The  extremes 
of  under  and  over-boiling  must  be  avoided, 
for  when  over-boiled  it  is  with  difficulty  fined 
again  in  the  casks. 

860.  Cooling.     When  the  wort  is  ready, 
damp  the  fire,  and  draw  it  off  into  the  cool- 
ers, keeping  the  hops  well  stirred  to  prevent 
their  being  burnt  to  the   bottom ;   strain  it 
through  a  hair-sieve  to  take  off  the  hops. 
The  coolers  should  be  as  shallow  as  possible, 
that  the  wort  may  not  be  too  long  in  cooling, 
or  it  may  chance  to  get  sour,  and  should  be  of 
the   same   depth  in   each,  that  it  may  cool 
equally.     "When  the  first  wort  is  drawn  off, 
return  the  hops  again  into  the  boiler,  with  the 
wort    for    the    table-beer,    and  -let    it    boil 
quickly   for   one   hour   and  a  half;    and  if 
1   pound    coarse    sugar  or  molasses,   and   1 
ounce  salt,  be  added  to  every  10  gallons  wort 
in  the  boiling,  it  will  be  much   improved. 
When  the  wort  has  been  cooled  down  to  75 
or  80  degrees  of  heat  by  the  thermometer 
(this  will  depend  on  the  state  of  the  atmos- 
phere, fjpr  when  the  weather  is  warm  it  should 


be  cooler),  draw  it  off  into  the  fermenting 
tun,  without  disturbing  tbe  sediment  at  the 
bottom,  which  gives  the  ale  or  beer  a  dis- 
agreeable taste.  This  is  always  observed  by 
the  Scotch  brewers,  but  others  consider  that 
it  feeds  the  beer,  which  it  certainly  does,  and 
always  use  it ;  for  whether  it  is  the  oleagin- 
ous quality  of  the  hops,  or  the  gluten  ex- 
tracted from  the  malt,  which  is  precipitated 
by  the  boiling,  it  cannot  be  of  any  injury  to 
the  wort.  If  it  is  the  first,  it  is  of  essential 
service  to  give  the  full  flavor  of  the  hops. 
In  each  case  it  will  be  thrown  off  in  the 
working. 

861 .  Fermentation.    3  pints  good  white 
fresh  yeast  will  be  about  the  quantity  required 
to  work  a  hogshead  of  beer ;   but  in  larger 
brewings  this  will  depend  on  the   quantity 
there  is  in  a  body,  the  gravity,  and  heat  of 
the  atmosphere — thus,  the  lower  the  gravity, 
the  greater  the  bulk,  and  the  warmer  the 
weather,  the  less  yeast  must  be  used  in  pro- 
portion to  work  it,  and  vice  versa.     3  pints 
being  sufficient  for  a  hogshead,  a  gallon  will 
work  4  or  5  hogsheads  in  a  body  of  the  same 
gravity.     First  mix  the  yeast  with  a  gallon 
or  two  of  the  wort,  and  a  handful  or  two  of 
bean  or  wheat  flour  in  the  fermenting  tun ; 
when  the  fermentation  is  brisk,  pour  over 
another  portion,  and  as  soon  as  the  wort  is  at 
the  proper  degree  of  temperature  run .  it  into 
the  tun,  reserving  out  some  of  the  ferment,  to 
feed  the  beer  as  occasion  may  require.    When 
it  becomes  languid,  or  if  there  is  sufficient 
yeast  in,  it  may  be  left  out  altogether.     The 
fermentation  should  be  gradual  at  first ;  for  if 
it  goes  on  too  quickly  the  beer  is  likely  to 
become  foxed,  that  is,  to  have  a  rank  and  dis- 
agreeable taste.     The  next  morning  the  beer 
should  have  a  thin  white  creamy  head ;  then, 
with  a  bowl  or  ladle,  well  rouse  and  mix  it 
together.    If,  however,  the  fermentation  has 
not  been  favorable,  add  some  of  the  ferment ; 
and  if  rather  cold,  wrap  some  sacks  or  old 
carpet  round  the  tun,  and  place  some  more 
sacks  over  the  top ;  also  keep  the  door  and 
windows  closed.     Or  take  a  clean  cask  (the 
size  according  to  the  quantity  of  the  gyle,  or 
brewing),   and  fill  it  full  o'f  boiling  liquor; 
bung  it  close,  and  put  in  the  tun.    In  the 
evening  rouse  the  head  well   in  again ;  the 
next  morning  the  beer  should  have  what  is 
termed  a  cauliflower-head  ;  remove  with  the 
skimmer  any  patches  of  dark-brown  yeast, 
and  mix  it  well  up  together  again.    After  the 
yeast  has  risen  to  the  top,  it  will  form  a  thick 
yeasty  appearance,  which  should  be  skimmed 
off  as  soon  as  it  is  inclined  to  fall.     A  portion 
should  then  be  taken  out,  tried  with  the  sac- 
charometer,  and  noted.    If  not  sufficiently 
fermented,  it  should  be  tried  every  two  hours 
until  it  is  so,  and  the  head  may  be  skimmed 
off  at  the  same  time.    When  sufficiently  re- 
duced, cleanse  it  into  the  casks. 

862.  Cleansing.     In    cleansing    ale   or 
beer,  the  yeast  should  be  skimmed  from  the 
top,  and  the  liquor  drawn  off  gently,   so  as 
not    to    disturb    the    bottoms.     The    casks 
should  be  plugged  a  little  on  one  side,  that 
the  yeast  may  work  and  discharge  itself  at 
the  bung-hole.    A  tub  or  pan  must  be  placed 
underneath  to  receive  the  yeast  as  it  works 
over.    The  greatest  attention  should  be  paid 
to  the  filling  up  of  the  casks  with  the  wort 


10O 


BEE  WING. 


that  is  left,  which  should  be  done  every  half 
hour  at  first,  ana  as  the  working  becomes 
more  slow,  every  3  or  4  hours,  that  the  yeast 
may  continue  to  discharge  itself,  otherwise  it 
will  fall  to  the  bottom,  and  render  the  beer 
harsh  and  unpleasant,  and  liable  to  be  excited 
on  every  change  of  the  weather ;  but  by  at- 
tending to  these  precautions,  this  will  be 
avoided,  and  the  working  of  the  beer  will  be 
sooner  over.  When  the  yeast  has  ceased  to 
discharge  itself,  plug  the  casks  upright,  mix 
a  pound  of  the  best  hops  with  some  old  ale  or 
beer,  and  scald  them  in  it  over  the  fire.  If 
the  ale  or  beer  is  required  to  be  drunk  soon, 
this  mixture  should  be  added  warm,  otherwise 
add  it  when  cold.  Mix  it  well  into  the  cask 
by  means  of  a  long  stick,  and  bung  the  cask 
close ;  make  a  spile-hole  near  the  bung,  and 
put  in  a  spile  rather  loosely  at  first,  and  after 
two  or  three  days  knock  it  in  firmly. 

863.  Important  Hints  on  Brewing. 
Small  beer  will  require  rather  more  yeast  to 
work  it  than  strong  beer  or  ale.  A  portion  of 
the  wort  at  the  temperature  of  85  degrees 
should  be  mixed  at  first  with  the  yeast. 
When  the  fermentation  has  commenced,  the 
rest  of  the  wort  may  be  run  into  the  tun  at 
the  heat  of  75  degrees.  It  will  not  work  so 
long  nor  so  stoongly  as  ale,  and  may  be  casked 
the  next  day.  Attend  to  the  filling  of  the 
cask  as  directed  for  ale.  In  about  two  days 
the  fermentation  will  have  subsided,  and  the 
cask  should  then  be  bunged  close.  The  fer- 
mentation will  always  show  whether  the 
degrees  of  heat  have  been  well  taken,  and  the 
extract  well  made.  If  too  high,  the  air-blad- 
ders on  the  head  will  be  about  as  large  as  a 
dollar  piece.  If  too  low,  there  will  be  few  or 
no  bladders,  or  very  small  ones ;  but  when 
well  taken  they  will  be  in  size  about  that  of  a 
2  cent  piece.  The  proportions  of  hops  used 
for  beer  should  be  in  accordance  with  the 
time  it  is  to  be  kept.  If  for  immediate  use,  3 
pounds  will  be  sufficient  for  a  coomb  of  malt 
(4  bushels).  From  1  to  2  years,  4  pounds ; 
old  beer,  5  or  6  pounds.  The  same  if  the 
wort  is  very  rich ;  or  in  proportion  to  its 
gravity  use  more  hops,  because  beer  or  ale 
made  from  rich  wort  is  always  intended  for 
long  keeping.  In  general,  4  or  5  pounds  of 
hops  per  coomb  (4  bushels)  is  used  for  ales ; 
but  for  porter,  5  or  6  pounds,  and  for  bitter 
ale,  about  8  or  10  pounds;  but  in  all  cases 
care  should  be  taken  that  the  hops  are  of  the 
best  quality.  The  private  brewer  will  find 
about  i  pound  of  raspings  of  quassia  equiva- 
lent to  6  pounds  of  hops  for  preserving  ale 
and  imparting  a  pleasant  bitter.  Beer  brewed 
for  immediate  use  may  be  made  from  all  pale 
malt,  as  it  is  more  readily  fermented  than  that 
from  the  browner  sorts.  It  will  not  keep  so 
well,  and  may  be  brewed  almost  in  the  hot- 
test weather,  as  it  need  not  be  cooled  below 
70  or  75  degrees.  A  mixture  of  pale  and 
amber  malt  should  always  be  used  for  keeping 
beer,  and  the  wort  cooled  down  to  60  or  70 
degrees  before  it  is  put  into  a  state  of  fermen- 
tation ;  hence,  from  Autumn  to  Spring,  or  the 
months  of  October  to  March,  have  ever  been 
deemed  the  most  favorable  months  for  brew- 
ing the  best  malt  liquor,  the  former  being 
considered  the  most  fitted,  as  the  beer  has  so 
many  cold  months  immediately  succeeding, 
for  it  to  ripen  and  grow  fine  in ;  besides,  it 


does  not  want  such  watching  and  tending  as 
;he  March  beer  does,  in  putting  in  and  taking 
out  the  spile  or  peg  on  every  change  of  the 
weather.  The  proportion  of  wort  to  be 
obtained  from  every  bushel  of  malt  will  de- 
pend entirely  on  the  proposed  strength  of  the 
iquor  required.  For  ale  or  beer  of  a  superior 
dnd,  the  produce  of  the  first  mashing  only 
should  be  used ;  but  if  the  ordinary  or  usual 
driking  ale  is  wanted,  take  the  produce  of  the 
irst  and  second  mashings,  and  use  the  third 
br  table  beer. 

864.  Flavoring  Beer.     There  are  sev- 
ral  simple  and  innoxious  articles  which  can 

3e  used  for  this  purpose  by  the  private  brewer — 
namely,  Spanish  liquorice,  liquorice  root,  car- 
damom and  caraway  seeds,  and  dried  orange 
peel  powdered ;  these  are  very  excellent  when 
ised  judiciously.  Honey  is  also  an  excellent 
assistant  to  beer  and  ale ;  about  2  pounds  to 
a  quarter  (8  bushels)  of  malt  being  put  into 
the  copper  just  before  the  wort  is  turned  out, 
or  long  enough  to  melt  and  incorporate  with 
the  mass.  The  same  plan  should  be  adopted 
with  everything  used  for  this  purpose — that 
is,  throwing  it  in  when  the  wort  is  at  the  full 
boiling  point,  for  then  it  will  not  fall  to  the 
bottom  without  mixing.  When,  however, 
Spanish  liquorice  is  used,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  tie  it  in  a  net  bag  and  suspend  it.  Salt  and 
ground  ginger,  or  salt  and  any  other  spice,  are 
excellent  for  cleansing  beer. 

865.  Porter  Brewing    for  Families. 
To  make  this  beverage,  three  sorts  of  malt 
are  required,  namely :  pale,  brown,  and  blown 
malt.     The  peculiar  flavor  of  this  liquor  is 
given  by  the  brown  and  blown  malt,  and  no 
other  material  or  ingredient  whatever  is  re- 
quired different  from    other   sorts    of   beer. 
The  mixture  of  malt   may  be   composed  of 
half  pale  or  amber,  and  half  brown  malt ;  or, 
take  for  a  hogshead,   4  bushels   of  pale   or 
amber  malt,  2  of  brown,  and  14  pounds  of 
patent  blown  malt,  and  6  pounds  of  the  best 
brown  hops.     These   proportions   will  make 
excellent  porter,  but  the  following  may  be 
used  for  a  second-rate  quality  : — 2^  bushels  of 
amber,   1£  bushels  of   brown    malt,  and    4 

?ounds  of  hops,  with  sufficient  burnt  sugar 
see  No.  694)  to  give  the  desired  color;  or  it 
may  be  brewed  with  all  amber  malt,  using 
blown  malt,  or  sugar  coloring,  instead  of 
the  brown  malt.  The  water  for  mashing 
must  be  lower  than  for  beer  or  ale,  and  be 
reduced  to  164  or  166  degrees  for  the  first 
mash,  according  to  the  instructions  already 
laid  down.  All  the  processes  are  conducted 
the  same  as  for  beer  or  ale,  with  this  ex- 
ception, that  blown  malt  is  boiled  with  the 
wort  in  a  copper,  and  the  second  malt,  if 
boiled  separate,  should  be  boiled  violently 
for  2  or  3  hours ;  and  as  there  is  generally 
but  one  quality  of  porter,  the  two  kinds  of 
wort  are  run  together  into  the  tun.  28  gal- 
lons of  cold  water  may  be  run  into  the  tun 
for  table  porter,  which  should  be  managed 
as  table  beer.  If  the  color  is  not  sufficiently 
high  it  may  be  heightened  by  using  a  pound 
of  ^Spanish  liquorice  with  the  wort  in  the 
boiler,  or  by  the  addition  of  burnt  sugar  (Car- 
amel, see  No.  694.) 

866.  Hints    on    Fermentation.      The 
fermentation  of  beer  or  ale  is  a  very  import- 
ant part  of  the   process  of   brewing.     The 


BREWING. 


101 


quantity  of  extract  obtained  from  the  mail 
depends  greatly  upon  the  heat  of  the  water 
used  for  mashing,  and  on  the  mashing  process 
being  properly  conducted ;  but  whether  thai 
extract  be  rich  or  poor,  the  flavor  of  the  beer 
or  ale,  and  its  ultimate  success  in  the  cellar 
depends  upon  the  wort  being  properly  anc 
sufficiently  fermented  in  the  tun  and  casks 
Fermentation  increases  the  heat  and  de- 
creases the  gravity  of  the  wort,  altering 
altogether  its  original  character  by  a  decom- 
position of  its  parts,  or  a  conversion  of  ife 
saccharine  principle  into  alcohol,  which  gives 
to  it  that  vinous  pungency  for  which  it  is 
esteemed.  If  the  fermentation  is  not  carried 
far  enough,  the  abundant  sweet  principle  oi 
the  wort  will  not  be  sufficiently  changed  to 
give  it  the  necessary  vinous  taste,  and  it  will 
be  sickly  and  cloying,  deficient  of  strength, 
and  liable  to  become  ropy.  When  the  fer- 
mentation is  carried  too  far  in  the  tun,  the 
vinous  flavor  is  partly  lost ;  and  if  still  lower, 
the  yeast  becomes,  as  it  were,  fixed  in  it, 
from  the  ale  or  beer  having  lost  its  natural 
energy  to  throw  it  off,  and  it  will  have  a  flat, 
stale,  and  disagreeable  taste.  Fretting  (see 
No.  757)  then  ensues  in  the  cask,  and  from 
being  deficient  of  body  it  soon  becomes  sour, 
unless  speedily  drunk.  All  beer  for  keeping 
should  be  fermented  in  the  tun  to  about  one- 
fourth  its  original  gravity,  in  a  temperature 
of  the  gyle  not  exceeding  70  degrees.  Light- 
er beer  about  one-third ;  but  in  no  case 
should  it  be  allowed  to  reach  so  far  as  one- 
half.  In  winter,  the  fermentation  of  weak 
beer  must  not  be  carried  quite  so  far  as  in  the 
summei,  as  more  unfermented  matter  must 
be  left  to  nourish  it  in  the  cask  during  the 
cold  weather,  which  will  counteract  its  ripen- 
ing. Some  allowance  should  also  be  made 
for  the  time  the  ale  or  beer  is  intended  to  be 
kept.  Strong  wort  will  bear  a  greater  pro- 
portionate fermentation  than  weak  wort,  and 
consequently  be  stronger  and  more  sparkling. 
Beer  of  this  kind,  intended  to  be  kept,  should 
be  fermented  so  low  as  to  ensure  transparency 
and  softness,  with  a  proper  degree  of  strength, 
for  it  will  have  time  to  bring  itself  round. 
Still,  care  must  be  taken  to  leave  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  unfermented  matter  for  the  supply 
of  the  gradual  decomposition,  the  quantity 
left  being  proportionate  to  the  time  the  beer 
is  intended  to  be  kept.  Wort  of  50  or  60  de- 
grees gravity  (see  No.  858)  will  keep  well  for 
2  or  3  years,  if  reduced  to  two-fifths,  or  at  least 
one-fourth.  Ale  is  not  fermented  so  much  as 
beer,  therefore  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
saccharine  matter  still  remains  in  the  liquid, 
apparently  unaltered.  In  conducting  this 
process,  both  the  thermometer  and  saccharo- 
meter  must  be  the  guide ; — the  last  is  indis- 
pensable. The  results  given  by  these  should 
be  carefully  noted  in  a  book  kept  for  the 
purpose,  with  the  heat  of  the  atmosphere  at 
the  time  the  observations  are  made,  which 
will  serve  as  a  guide  for  any  future  brewing. 
As  soon  as  the  head  forms  a  brown,  thick, 
yeasty  appearance,  and  is  inclined  to  fall,  it 
must  be  immediately  skimmed  off.  Particular 
attention  must  be  paid  to  this  point.  It  is  at 
all  times  better  to  skim  it  before  it  begins  to 
drop,  than  allow  it  to  pass  again  through  the 
beer,  which  will  give  it  a  rank,  disagreeable 
taste,  termed  "yeast  bitten;"  neither  will  it 


fine  well  in  the  cask.  After  the  head  is 
skimmed  off,  a  portion  should  then  be  taken 
out,  tried  by  the  saccharometer,  and  noted ; 
and  if  it  is  not  sufficiently  fermented  it  should 
be  roused  well  up,  and  skimmed  every  two 
hours  until  the  required  gravity  is  nearly  at- 
tained, when  it  should  be  watched  with  the 
greatest  attention,  and  cleansed  with  a  little 
salt  and  bean-flour,  and  any  other  flavoring 
ingredient  may  then  be  added,  such  as  ground 
ginger,  cardamom,  caraway  seeds,  &c.,  and 
well  mixed  with  it  immediately  it  is  reduced 
to  the  desired  point. 

867.  The  Acetous  Fermentation  may 
arise  from  premature  fermentation,  through 
the  mashing  heat  being  taken  too  low,  when  it 
may  commence  in  the  tun,  underback,   or 
coolers.     If  in  the  mash  tun,  the  wort  will 
ferment  very  rapidly,  and  produce   a  large 
quantity  of  yeast;  but  of  course  the  liquor 
will  be  soured,  therefore   less  yeast  will  be 
required    to    ferment    it.      When    the    first 
mash  is  affected,   all    the  subsequent    ones 
will  share  the  same  fate,  and  no  extra  quantity 
of  hops  or  boiling  that  may  be  given  to  it  will 
restore  it  to  a  sound  condition.     It  may  also 
arise  from  the  mashing  heat  being  taken  too 
high.     When  this  is  the  case,  the  fermenta- 
tion is  languid,  the  yeast  head  is  very  low,  and 
appears  brown  or  fiery,  accompanied  with  a 
hissing  noise,  and  occasionally  it  will  appear 
as  if  boiling.    A  larger  quantity  of  yeast  than 
usual  is  necessary  to  be  added  to  wort  of  this 
description,  to  force  the  fermentation,  and  to 
discharge  the  yeast  freely,  in  order  that  as 
little  as  possible  may  remain  in  the  liquor, 
which  would  otherwise  fret  and  become  sour. 
The  acetous  fermentation  may  also  arise  from 
premature  fermentation,  either  in  the  under- 
back  or  coolers ;  hence,  fretting  ensues,  and 
the  liquor  continually  generates  acidity. 

868.  To    Correct   Acidity   in   Beer. 
Acidity  in  beer  may  be  neutralized  by  chalk, 
lime,  alkalies,  &c.;  but  it  cannot  be  totally 
destroyed  without  spoiling  the  liquor. 

869.  Bittern.     This  is  an  adulterating 
mixture  employed  by  brewers  to  impart  a 
false  bitter  and  strength  to  their  liquors.     Boil 
4  parts  Spanish  liquorice  in  sufficient  water 
until  dissolved,  and  evaporate  to  the  consist- 
ence of  cream.     Then  add  to  it  1  part  extract 
of  quassia,  1  part  powdered  sulphate  of  iron, 
2  parts  extract  of  cocculus  indicus,  and  8  parts 
molasses. 

870.  Bitter  Balls.     These  are  used  as  a 
fraudulent  substitute  for  hops  in  making  beer, 
and  are  different  in  composition,  to  suit  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  malt  liquor. 

For  ale :  2  pounds  powdered  gentian,  and  1 
pound  extract  of  gentian,  mixed  with  suffi- 
cient molasses  to  make  a  paste.  Divide  into  ^ 
pound  rolls. 

For  pale  ale :  1  pound  crude  picric  acid,  3i 
lounds  ground  chamomiles,  and  i  pound  grains 
of  Paradise,  mixed  with  syrup. 

For  porter  or  stout:  either  of  the  above, 
with  the  addition  of  Ik  pounds  Spanish  li- 
quorice softened  with  a  little  boiling  water. 

871.  Fining  for  Ale  or  Beer.     It  fre- 
quently happens  that  malt  liquor,  especially 
sorter,  with  all  the  care  bestowed  upon  it  in 
jrewing,  will  not  turn  out  sufficiently  fine  to 
meet  the  taste  and  eye  of  the  consumer,  in 
which  case  it  is  usually  subjected  to  the  ope- 


1O2 


BREWING. 


ration  of  clarifying.  For  this  purpose  1  ounce 
isinglass  is  put  into  1  quart  weak  vinegar,  or 
still  better,  hard  beer,  and  when  dissolved,  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  good  beer  may  be  added 
to  make  it  measure  1  gallon.  This  mixture 
is  called  finings,  1  to  2  pints  of  which  is  the 
proper  quantity  for  a  barrel.  The  method  of 
using  it,  is  to  put  the  finings  into  a  bucket, 
and  to  gradually  add  some  of  the  beer,  until 
the  bucket  is  three  parts  full,  during  which 
time  it  is  violently  agitated  with  a  whisk,  and 
this  is  continued  until  a  good  frothy  head  is 
raised  upon  it,  when  it  is  thrown  into  the 
barrel  of  beer,  and  the  whole  well  stirred  up, 
by  means  of  a  large  stick  shoved  in  at  the 
bung-hole.  In  a  few  days  the  beer  will  usual- 
ly become  fine. 

872.  To    Ascertain   Whether   Malt 
Liquor  may  be  Clarified  by  Fining.    In 
some  bad  sorts  of  beer,  isinglass  will  have  no 
effect.    This  may  be  ascertained  beforehand, 
by  trying  some  in  a  long  glass  tube,  or  vial, 
with  a  little  of  the  finings.    These  should  be 
well  shaken  together,  and  then  set  aside  for  a 
short  time,  when  it  will  be  found  that  the 
finings  will  rise  to  the  top,  leaving  the  central 
portion  of  the  beer  clear,  if  it  be  in  a  proper 
condition  for  clarifying;    but  if,  on  the  con- 
trary, they  sink  to  the  bottom,  and  the  liquor 
still  keeps  foul,  no  quantity  of  finings,  how- 
ever great,  will  ever  clarify  it. 

873.  To  Clarify  Obstinate  Ale.    This 
latter  defect  may  be  remedied  by  proceeding 
to  fine  it  after  the  manner  above  described, 
and  then  adding,  after  the  finings  have  been 
well  rummaged  up,  either  1  spoonful  oil  of 
vitriol  or  gum  catechu,  dissolved  in  £  pint 
warm  water,  again  stirring  well  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour.     Or  1  or  2  ounces  tincture  of 
catechu  may  be  used  instead,  mixed  with  a 
little  water.    Either  of  these  additions  acts 
chemically  on  the  finings,  in  the  same  way  as 
good  beer  does,  precipitating  them  along  with 
the  foulness,  and  thus  brightening  the  liquor. 
The  addition  of  a  handful  of  hops,  previously 
boiled  for  5  minutes  in  a  little  of  the  beer, 
and  then  added  to  the  barrel,  and  the  whole 
allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  days,  before  pro- 
ceeding to  clarify  it,  will  generally  have  the 
same  effect. 

874.  To  Ripen  Beer.     The  addition  of 
a  small  lump  of  white  sugar  to  each  bottle  of 
ale  or  beer,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  moist  sugar 
to  each  bottle  of  porter  at  the  time  of  corking, 
will  render  it  fit  lor  drinking  in  a  few  days  in 
ordinary  weather.     A  raisin  or  lump  of  sugar 
candy  is  often  added  to  each  bottle  with  a 
like  intention.      The  Parisians  bottle  their 
beer  one  day,  and  sell  it  the  next.     For  this 
purpose,  in  addition  to  the  sugar  as  above, 
they  add  2  or  3  drops  of  yeast.     Such  bottled 
liquor  must,   however,   be  drank    within    a 
week,  or  else  stored  in  a  very  cold  place,  as  it 
will  otherwise  burst  the  bottles,  or  blow  out 
the  corks. 

875.  To  Give  Beer  the  Appearance 
of  Age.     The  addition  of  a  very  little  diluted 
sulphuric  acid  to  new  beer  will  give  it  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  1  or  2  years  old.     Copperas, 
alum,  sliced  lemons,  oranges,  and  cucumbers, 
are  also  frequently  employed  by  brewers  for 
the  same  purpose. 

876.  Beer  Heading.     Alum  and  green 
copperas  equal  parts,  both  in  fine  powder; 


mix.  Or,  alum,  copperas,  and  common  salt, 
of  each  equal  parts ;  mix.  Used  by  brewers 
to  make  their  beer  keep  its  head. 

877.  To  Remedy  Mustiness  in  Beer. 
To   each  hogshead  add  1   pound  new  hops 
boiled  in  a  gallon  of  the  liquor,  along  with  7 
pounds  newly-burnt  charcoal  coarsely  bruised, 
and  a  4  pound  loaf  of  bread  cut  into  slices 
and  toasted  rather  black ;   rouse  well  every 
day  for  one  week,  then  stir  in  moist  sugar  3 
or  4  pounds,  and  bung  down  for  2  weeks. 

878.  To  Remedy  Flatness  in  Beer. 
Stir  a  few  pounds  of  moist  sugar  into  each 
hogshead ;   fermentation  will  ensue  in  a  few 
days,  and  the  liquor  become  brisk.     On  the 
small  scale,  the  addition  of  &  few  grains  car- 
bonate of  soda  or  prepared  chalk  to  each  glass 
will  make  the  liquor  brisk  and  carry  a  head  ; 
but  it  must  be  drunk  within  a  few  minutes, 
else  it  becomes  again  flat.     This  is  an  excel- 
lent method  when  home-brewed  beer  becomes 
sour  and  vapid. 

879.  To    Recover    Frosted    Beer. 
Frosted  beer  is  best  recovered  by  the  addition 
of  a  few  hops  boiled  in  a  little  sweet  wort ;  or 
by  adding  a  little  moist  sugar  or  molasses  to 
induce  a  fresh  fermentation. 

880.  Foxing  or  Bucking  Beer.    Add 
some  fresh  hops,  along  with  some  braised 
mustard  seed,  to  the  beer.    Some  persons  add 
a  little  made  mustard,  or  solution  of  alum  or 
catechu,  or  a  little  diluted  sulphuric  acid,  and 
stir  it  well ;  and  in  a  week  or  10  days  after- 
wards, further  add  some  bean-flour,  molasses, 
or  moist  sugar. 

881.  To  Remedy  Ropiness  in  Beer. 
Add  a  little  infusion  of  catechu  and   some 
fresh  hops  to  the  beer,  and  in  a  fortnight  stir 
well,  and  the  next  day  fine  it  down. 

882.  German  Beer  Bouquet.    ^Accord- 
ing to  Dr.  Boettger,  this  liquor  consists  of  a 
solution  of  the  essential  oil  of  lemons  in  light 
petroleum  oil,  and  a  coarse  fusel  oil,  containing 
spirit  colored  by  turmeric. 

883.  Spring  Beer.     Boil  down  3  small 
bunches  each  of  sweet  fern,  sarsaparilla,  win- 
tergreen,   sassafras,  prince  pine,  spice  wood, 
in  8  gallons  water  to  6  gallons  of  decoction 
or  extract;  strain;  4  gallons  of  water  boiled 
down  to  3  gallons  of  decoction,  with  £  pound 
hops ;  strain ;  mix  the  two  extracts  or  decoc- 
tions together ;  dissolve  in  them  1  gallon  of 
molasses,  and,  when  cooled  to  80°  heat,  1-J- 
pound    of    roasted    bread    soaked    in    fresh 
brewers'  yeast ;  fill  up  a  10-gallon  keg ;  when 
fermentation  is  over  mix  with  it  the  white  of 
1  egg  beaten  to  froth;   bung  it,  and  bottle 
when  clear. 

884.  Spruce  Beer.     Boil  9|  gallons  of 
water;  let  it  cool  down  to  80°  Fahr.,  and  then 
dissolve  9  pounds  of  sugar  in  it,  having  pre- 
viously  mixed  with  it  1  ounce  of  essence  of 
spruce;    then  add  1  'pint  of  good  brewers' 
yeast,  and  pour  it  in  a  10-gallon  keg  until  fer- 
mentation is  over;    then  add  a  handful   of 
brick  powder  and  the  white  of  2  eggs  beaten 
to  a  froth  ;  mix  with  the  beer,  and  let  it  stand 
till  clear,  then  bottle. 

885.  To  Make  White  Spruce  Beer. 
Dissolve   10  pounds  loaf  sugar  in  10  gallons 
boiling  water,  add  4  ounces  essence  of  spruce ; 
when  nearly  cold  add  i  pint  yeast.    Keep  in 
a  warm  place.      Next  day    strain    through 
flannel,  put  into  bottles  and  wire  the  corks. 


BEE  WING. 


103 


886.  To  Make  Wood's  Spruce  Beer. 

Boil  £  pint  essence  of  spruce,  5  ounces  each 
of  bruised  pimento  and  ginger,  and  5  or  6 
ounces  hops  in  3  gallons  water  for  10  minutes. 
Then  add  3  quarts  molasses  and  11  gallons 
warm  water.  When  lukewarm  add  1  pint 
yeast ;  ferment  for  24  hours  and  bottle,  as  in 
last  receipt.  This  will  also  make  a  white 
beer  by  substituting  an  equivalent  of  loaf 
sugar  instead  of  the  molasses. 

887.  To    Make    Spruce    Beer.     Take 

2  ounces  each   hops  and  chips  of  sassafras 
root,  10  gallons  water ;  boil  twenty  minutes, 
strain,  and  turn  on,  while  hot,  1  gallon  good 
molasses,   and    add    2    table-spoonfuls    each 
essence  of  ginger  and  essence  of  spruce ;    1 
table- spoonful  pounded  allspice.     Put  into  a 
cask,    and  when   cold  enough   add   1    quart 
yeast ;  let  it  stand  24  hours ;   draw  it  off  or 
bottle  it. 

888.  Essence  of  Spruce.     Take  of  the 
young  branches  of  black  spruce  (abies  nigra), 
make  a  decoction  with  water  (see  No.  34)  and 
evaporate  to  the    consistence    of  molasses. 
This  is  used   for  fabricating  spruce  beer — a 
right  pleasant  drink  when  it  is  fresh. 

889.  Root    Beer.      Take    sarsaparilla 
(American).  2  pounds ;  spice  wood,  -J  pound; 
guaiacum  chips,  1  pound ;  birch  bark,  £  pound : 
ginger,  j  ounce ;  sassafras,  4  ounces ;  prickly- 
ash  bark,  £  ounce ;  hops,  1  ounce.     Boil  for 
12  hours  over  a  moderate  fire,  with  sufficient 
water,  so  that  the  remainder  shall  measure  5 
gallons,  to  which  add  tincture  of  ginger,  8 
ounces ;  oil  of  wintergreen,  1  ounce ;  alcohol, 
1  quart.      This  prevents  fermentation.      To 
make  root  beer,  take  of  this  decoction  1  quart ; 
molasses,  Bounces;  water,  2  k  gallons;  yeast, 
4  ounces.     This  will  soon  ferment  and  pro- 
duce a  good  drinkable  beverage.      The  root 
beer  should  be  mixed,  in  warm  weather,  the 
evening  before  it  is  used,  and  can  be  kept  for 
use  either  bottled  or  drawn  by  a  common 
beer-pump.     Most  people  prefer  a  small  addi- 
tion of  wild  cherry  bitters  or  hot  drops  to  the 
above  beer.     (See  Nos.  821  and  891.) 

890.  Puffer's    Root     Beer.     Prince's 
pine,  2  ounces ;  wild  cherry,  2  ounces ;  hem- 
lock bark,  2  ounces ;  wintergreen,  4  ounces ; 
sassafras  bark,  4  ounces ;  birch  bark,  4  ounces ; 
spice  bark,  4  ounces;  Jamaica  ginger,  2  ounces; 
white  mustard  seed,  1  ounce.     Put  in  a  per- 
colator and  cover  with  boiling  water ;  let  it 
stand  till  cold,  then  strain ;  add  to  it  enough 
boiling  water  to  make  4  gallons.     Take  1  gal- 
lon of  this,  add  1  gallon  of  molasses,  or  the 
same  amount  of  syrup  ;  to  this  add  8  gallons 
of  water  and  about  1  pint  of  yeast.     1  pint  of 
alcohol  added  will  much  improve  its  flavor, 
and  it  will  keep  longer. 

891.  Hot  Drops.     Take  of  tincture   of 
myrrh,    1   ounce ;    tincture    of   capsicum,    2 
ounces. 

892.  To   Make    Ottawa  Root  Beer. 
Take  1  ounce  each  sassafras,  allspice,  yellow 
dock,    and   wintergreen;    £  ounce  each  wild 
cherry  bark  and  coriander;  J  ounce  hops  and 

3  quarts  molasses.     Pour  boiling  water  on 
the  ingredients  and  let  them  stand  24  hours ; 
filter  the  liquor  and  add  $  pint  yeast,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use  in  24  hours. 

893.  To  Make  Superior  Ginger  Beer. 
Take   10   pounds  of  sugar,  9  ounces  lemon 
juice,    h    pound    honey,    11    ounces    bruised 


ginger  root,  9  gallons  water,  3  pints  yeast. 
BoiJ  the  ginger  half  an  hour  in  1  gallon 
water;  then  add  the  rest  of  the  water  and  the 
other  ingredients,  and  strain  it  when  cold. 
Add  the  white  of  an  egg  beaten,  and  -J  an 
ounce  essence  of  lemon.  Let  it  stand  4  days, 
then  bottle,  and  it  will  keep  many  months. 

894.  To  Make  Ginger  Beer.     Put  in- 
to 1    gallon    boiling  water,  1  pound    lump 
sugar,   1    ounce    best    unbleached    Jamaica 
ginger  well  bruised,  |  ounce  cream  of  tartar 
and  2  lemons  sliced ;  stir  the  ingredients  fre- 
quently in  a  covered  vessel  until  lukewarm ; 
then  add  1£  or  2  ounces  yeast,  and  keep  it  in 
a  moderately  warm  place  so  as  to  excite  a 
brisk  fermentation ;   the  next  day  rack  and 
strain  through  flannel ;  let  it  work  for  a  day 
or  two,  then  strain  it  again  and  bottle,  wiring 
down  the  corks. 

895.  Ginger   Beer   Without   Yeast. 
Boil   1|  pounds  bruised  ginger  in  3  gallons 
water  half  an  hour;    then    add  20  pounds 
white  sugar,  1  pint  lemon  or  lime  juice,  1 
pound  honey,  and  17  gallons  water;    strain 
through  a  cloth.    When  cold  add  the  white  of 
1  egg,  and  |  fluid  ounce  essence  of  lemon; 
after  standing  3  or  4  days,  bottle. 

896.  To  Make  Ginger  Pop.     Take  5£ 
gallons  water,  f  pound  ginger  root  bruised,  £ 
ounce  tartaric  acid,  2±  pounds  white  sugar, 
whites  of  3  eggs  well  beaten,  1  small  tea-spoon- 
ful lemon  oil,  1  gill  yeast ;  boil  the  root  for  30 
minutes  in  1  gallon  of  the  water,  strain  off, 
and  put  the  oU  in  while  hot;  mix.    Make  over 
night ;  in  the  morning  skim  and  bottle,  keep- 
ing out  sediments. 

897.  To  Make  Ginger  Pop.    Take  2 
ounces  best  white  Jamaica  ginger  root,  bruised; 
water,  6  quarts ;  boil  20  minutes,  strain,  and 
add  1  ounce  cream  tartar,  1  pound    white 
sugar ;  put  on  the  fire  and  stir  until  all  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  and  put  in  an  earthen  jar ; 
now  put  in  J  ounce  tartaric  acid,  and  the  rind 
of  1  lemon;  let  it  stand  until  70°  Fahr.,  or 
until  you  can  bear  your  hand  in  it  with  com- 
fort ;  then  add  2  table-spoonfuls  of  yeast,  stir 
well,  bottle  for  use  and  tie  the  corks.    Make 
a  few  days  before  it  is  wanted  for  use. 

898.  Wahoo  Beer.     Boil  for  6  hours  in 
4  gallons  water,  1  ounce  each  sarsaparilla,.  Sol- 
omon's seal,   nettle  root,   and    sassafras;    2 
ounces  each  burdock  root,  comfrey  root,  and 
Prince's  pine ;  2  ounces  sweet  fern,  -J  ounce 
wintergreeu,  and  4  raw  potatoes  cut  up  fine. 
Strain,  and  add  1  quart  molasses  for  each  3 
gallons  of  the  strained  liquor,  and  a  browned 
loaf  of  bread.     When  cool,  put  in  1  pint  of 
good  yeast,  and  let  it  ferment  for  24  hours. 
It  will  then  be  ready  to  be  put  in  bottles  or  a 
keg. 

899.  Lemon  Beer.     Put  into  a  keg  1 
gallon  water,  1  sliced  lemon,  1  table- spoonful 
ginger,  1  pint  good  syrup,  and  i  pint  yeast. 
In  24  hours  it  will  be  ready  for  use.     If  bot- 
tled the  corks  must  be  tied  down. 

900.  Imperial  Pop.     Cream  of  tartar,  3 
ounces;  ginger,    1   ounce;    white    sugar,   24 
ounces ;  lemon  juice,  1  ounce ;  boiling  water, 
H  gallons;  when  cool,  strain,   and  ferment 
with  1  ounce  of  yeast,  and  bottle. 

901.  Girambing,  or  Limoniated  Gin- 
ger Beer.     Boil  4-J-  ounces  of  ginger  with  11 
quarts  water  ;  beat  up  4  eggs  to  a  froth,  and 
add  them  with  9  pounds  sugar  to  the  preced- 


104r 


BREWING. 


ing.  Take  9  lemons,  peel  them  carefully,  and 
add  the  rind  and  juice  to  the  foregoing.  Put 
the  whole  into  a  barrel,  add  3  spoonfuls  of 
yeast,  bung  down  the  barrel,  and  in  about  12 
days  bottle  it  off.  In  15  days  it  will  be  fit  for 
drinking,  but  it  improves  by  keeping. 

902.  Ginger  Beer  Powders.   Fine  pow- 
der of  Jamaica  ginger,  4  or  5  drachms ;  bicar- 
bonate of  soda,  3i  ounces ;  refined  sugar  in 
powder,   14  ounces;    essence  of  lemon,  30 
drops ;  mix,  and  divide  into  5  dozen  powders. 
(Or  4  to  5  grains  of  ginger,  28  of  bicarbonate 
of  soda,  112  of  sugar,  and  %  drop  of  essence 
of  lemon,   in  each  powder.)    In  the   other 
powder  put  32  grains  of  tartaric  acid  :  or  35 
grains  if  a  more  decidedly  acidulated  bever- 
age is  required.     Or  from  30  to  33  grains  of 
citric  acid. 

903.  Spruce  Beer  Powders.     In  each 
blue  paper  put  5  scruples  of  powdered  sugar, 
28  grains  of  bicarbonate  of  soda,  and  10  grains 
essence  of  spruce.    In  each  white  paper  30 
grains  of  tartaric  acid. 

904.  Sherbet.     Take  8  ounces  carbonate 
of  soda,  6  ounces  tartaric  acid,  2  pounds  loaf 
sugar  (finely  powdered),  3  drachms  essence  of 
lemon.    Let  the  powders  be  very  dry.    Mix 
them  intimately,  and  keep  them  for  use  in  a 
wide-mouthed  bottle,  closely  corked.     Put  2 
good-  sized  tea  spoonfuls  into  a  tumbler ;  pour 
in  i  pint  of  cold  water,  stir  briskly,  and  drink 
off. 

905.  Raspberry  Shrub.     1  quart  vine- 
gar, 3  quarts  ripe  raspberries.     After  standing 
a  day,  strain  it,  adding  to  each  pint  a  pound 
of  sugar,  and  skim  it  clear,  while  boiling  about 
half  an  hour.     Put  a  wine-glass  of  brandy  to 
each  pint  of   the    shrub,   when  cool.     Two 
spoonfuls  of  this,  mixed  with  a  tumbler  of  wa- 
ter, is  an  excellent  drink  in  warm  weather 
and  in  fevers. 

906.  Aerated  or  Effervescing  Lemon- 
ade.    This  may  be  made  by  putting  into  each 
bottle    (soda    water    bottle)  1  ounce  or  1^ 
ounces  syrup  of  lemons,  and  filling  it  up  with 
simple    aerated    water   from    the    machine. 
(The  syrup  is  made  by  dissolving  30  ounces 
lump  sugar  in  16  ounces  of  fresh  lemon  juice, 
by  a  gentle  heat.    It  may  be  aromatized  by 
adding  30  or  40  drops  of  essence  of  lemon  to 
the  sugar ;  or  by  rubbing  part  of  the  sugar 
on  the  peel  of  2  lemons ;  or  by  adding  to  the 
syrup  an  ounce  of  a  strong  tincture  of  fresh 
lemon  peel,  or  of  the  distilled  spirit  of  the 
same. ) 

907.  Effervescing  Lemonade,    with- 
out a  Machine.     Put  into  each    bottle  2 
drachms  of  sugar,  2  drops  of  essence  of  lem- 
on, \  drachm  bicarbonate  of  potash,  and  wa- 
ter to  fill  the  bottle ;  then  drop  in  35  or  40 
grains  of  citric  or  tartaric  acid  in  crystals,  and 
cork  immediately,   placing  the  bottles  in  a 
cool  place,  or  preferably,  in  iced  water. 

908.  Plain   Lemonade   in    Powder. 
(For  ten  gallons.)    -j-  pound  tartaric  acid  in 
powder,    16    pounds    sugar    in    powder, 
drachms  oil  of  lemons.     Hub  and  mix  well. 
1  ounce  of  this  powder  makes  ^  pint  of  lem- 
onade. 

909.  To  Make  Superior  Lemonade. 
Take  the  rind  of  2  lemons,  juice  of  3  large 
lemons,  i  pound  loaf  sugar,  1  quart  boiling 
water.    Kub  some  of  the  sugar,  in  lumps,  on 
two  of  the  lemons  until  they  have  imbibed  al" 


;he  oil  from  them,  and  put  it  with  the  remain- 
der of  the  sugar  into  a  jug ;  add  the  lemon 
uice  (but  no  pips),  and  pour  over  the  whole 
a  quart  boiling  water.  When  the  sugar  is 
dissolved,  strain  the  lemonade  through  a  piece 
of  muslin,  and,  when  cool,  it  will  be  ready 
"or  use.  The  lemonade  will  be  much  im- 
)roved  by  having  the  white  of  an  egg  beaten 
ip  with  it. 

910.  To  Make    Orangeade.     Take  of 
dilute  sulphuric  acid,  concentrated  infusion  of 

>range  peel,  each  12  drachms ;  syrup  of  or- 
ange peel,  5  fluid  ounces.  This  quantity  is 
added  to  2  imperial  gallons  of  water.  A  large 
wine-glassful  is  taken  for  a  draught,  mixed 
with  more  or  less  water,  according  to  taste. 
This  refreshing  drink  not  only  assuages  the 

hirst,  but  has,  moreover,  strong  antiseptic 
and  anti-diaiThoea  properties. 

911.  Imitation  Lemon  Juice.     This  is 
an  excellent  substitute  for  lemon  juice,  and 
jeeps  well  in    a    cool    place.     Dissolve   1J 
ounces  citric  acid,  45  grains  carbonate  of  po- 
;assa,  and  2£  ounces  white  sugar  in  1  pint  cold 
water ;  add  the  yellow  peel  of  a  lemon,  and, 
m  24  hours,  strain  through  muslin  or  a  hair 
sieve.    Instead  of  the  lemon  peel,  15  or  16 
drops  of  oil  of  lemon  may  be  used  to  flavor. 

912.  Imitation  Lemon  Juice.      Citric 
or  tartaric  acid,  2£  ounces;    gum,  -J  ounce; 
pieces  of  fresh  lemon  peel,  j  ounce ;  loaf  su- 

,  2  ounces ;  boiling  water,  1  quart ;  macer- 
ite  with  occasional  agitation  till  cold,  and 
strain.  Excellent. 

913.  Imitation    Orange    Juice.     Dis- 
solve 1  ounce  citric  acid  and  1  drachm  carbon- 
ate of  potassa  in  1  quart  water,  and  digest  in 
the  solution  the  peel  of  half  an  orange  until 
sufficiently    flavored;     then     sweeten    with 
honey  or  white  sugar.     Instead  of  the  orange 
peel/5  or  6  drops  of  oil  of  orange  peel,  with£ 
fluid  ounce  tincture  of  orange  peel,  may  be 
used. 

914.  To  Keep    Lemon    Juice.       Buy 
lemons  when  cheap  and  keep  them  in  a  cool 
place  two  or  three  days ;  roll  them  to  make 
them  squeeze  easily.     Squeeze  the  juice  in  a 
bowl,  and  strain  it  through  muslin  which  will 
not  permit  a  particle   of  the   pulp   to   pass 
through.     Have  ready  £  and  i  ounce  phials, 
perfectly  dry.     Fill  them  with  the  juice  so 
near  the  top  as  only  to  admit  •£  tea-spoonful 
of  sweet  oil  in  each,or  a  little  more  if  for  larger 
bottles.     Cork  them  tight,  and  put  them  in  a 
cool  dark  place.     When  you  want  the  juice, 
open  such  a  sized  bottle  as  you  will  use  in  a 
few  days.     Wind  some   clean  cotton   on   a 
skewer,  and  dip  it  in,  to  absorb  all  the  oil. 
When  the  oil  is  removed  the  juice  will   be  as 
fine  as  when  first  bottled. 

915.  Portable    Lemonade.      Take    1 
pound  finely-powdered  loaf  sugar,    1    ounce 
tartaric  or  citric  acid,  and  20  drops  essence  of 
lemon.     Mix,  and  keep  very  dry.     2  or  3  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  this  stirred  briskl/iu  a  tumbler 
of  water  will  make  a  very  pleasant  glass  of 
lemonade.      If  effervescent  lemonade  be  de- 
sired,  1   ounce    carbonate  of  soda  must   be 
added  to  the  above. 

916.  Lemonade  Powders.     Pound  and 
mix  together  £  pound  loaf  sugar,  1  ounce  car- 
bonate of  soda,  and  3  drops  oil  of   lemon. 
Divide  the  mixture  into  16  portions,  wrapped 
in  white  paper.     Then  take  1  ounce  of  tar- 


BREWING. 


1O5 


taric  acid,  and  divide  into  16  portions,  wrap- 
plug  them  in  blue  paper.  Dissolve  one  of 
each  kind  in  half  a  tumbler  of  water,  mix  the 
two  solutions  together,  and  drink  while  effer- 
vescing. 

917.  Lemon  Soda  Nectar.    Juice  of  1 
lemon,  f  tumblerful  of  water,  powdered  white 
sugar  to  taste,  i  small  tea-spoonful  of  carbon- 
ate of  soda.     Strain  the  juice  of  the  lemon, 
and  add  to  it  the  water,  with  sufficient  white 
sugar  to  sweeten  the  whole  nicely.    When 
well  mixed,  put  in  the  soda,  stir  well,  and 
drink  while  in  an  effervescing  state. 

918.  Milk  Punch.     Take  1  table-spoon- 
ful white  sugar,  2  table-spooonfuls  water,  1 
wine-glass  cognac  brandy,  i  wine-glass  Santa 
Cruz  rum,  £  tumblerful  shaved  ice.     Pill  with 
milk,  shake  the  ingredients  well  together,  and 
grate  a  little  nutmeg  on  top. 

919.  Brandy    Punch.     Take   1    table- 
spoonful  raspberry  syrup,  2   table-spoonfuls 
white  sugar,  1  wine-glass  water,  1|  wine-glass 
brandy,  i  small  sized  lemon,  2  slices  of  orange, 
1  piece  of  pineapple.     Fill  the  tumbler  with 
shaved  ice,  shake  well,  and  dress  the  top  with 
berries  in  season  ;  sip  through  a  straw. 

920.  Whiskey  Punch.    Take  1  wine- 

f  lass  whiskey  (Irish  or  Scotch),  2  wine-glasses 
oiling  water,  sugar  to  taste.  Dissolve  the 
sugar  well  with  1  wine-glass  of  the  water, 
then  pour  in  the  whiskey,  and  add  the  bal- 
ance of  the  water,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  put 
in  a  small  piece  of  lemon  rind,  or  a  thin  slice 
of  lemon. 

921.  Claret   Punch.      Take    14    table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,   1  slice  of  lemon,   2  or  3 
slices  of   orange.       Fill    the    tumbler    with 
shaved  ice,  and  then  pour  in  the  claret,  shake 
well,  and  ornament  with  berries  in  season. 
Place  a  straw  in  the  glass. 

922.  Sherry    Cobbler.      Take  2  wine- 
glasses of  sherry,  1  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  2 
or  3  slices  of  orange.     Fill  a  tumbler  with 
shaved  ice,  shake  well,  and  ornament  with 
berries  in  season. 

923.  Egg  Nogg.     Take  1  table -spoonful 
of  fine  sugar,  dissolved  with  1  table-spoonful 
cold  water;  1  egg,  1  wine-glass  Cognac  brandy, 
£  wine-glass  Santa  Cruz  rum,  £  tumblerful  of 
milk.     Fill  the  tumbler  J  full  with  shaved  ice, 
shake  the  ingredients  until  they  are  thorough- 
ly mixed  together,  and  grate  a  little  nutmeg 
on  top. 

924.  Bottle    Cocktail.      To    make    a 
cblicious  bottle  of  brandy  Qocktail,  use  the 
following  ingredients :   &  brandy,  -i-  water,  1 
pony-glass  of  Bogart's  bitters,  1   wine-glass 
of   gum    syrup,    k    pony-glass    of   Curacoa. 
Whiskey  and  gin  cocktails,  in  bottles,  may  be 
made  by  using  the  above  receipt,  and  substi- 
tuting those  liquors  instead  of  brandy. 

925.  Brandy  Smash,     h  table-spoonful 
of  white    sugar,   1    table-spoonful  water,  1 
wine-glass  of  brandy.     Fill  §-  full  of  shaved 
ice,  use  two  sprigs  of  mint,  the  same  as  in  the 
receipt  for  mint  julep.     Lay  two  small  pieces 
of  orange  on  top,  and  ornament  with  berries 
in  season. 

926.  Santa  Cruz  Sour.     1  table-spoon- 
ful fine  sugar,  1  wine-glass  Santa  Cruz  rum, 
juice  of  &  a  lemon.     Put  the  ingredients  in 
a  small  tumbler  f-  full  of  shaved  ice,  stir,  and 
strain  into  a  claret  glass,  and  dress  with  thin 
slices  of  lime  or  lemon,  and  fruit  in  season. 


927.  Mulled    Wine  with    Eggs.      1 
quart  of  wine,  1  pint  of  water,  1  table-spoon- 
ful of  allspice,   and  nutmeg  to  taste ;   boil 
them  together  a  few  minutes ;  beat  up  6  eggs 
with  sugar  to  your  taste ;  pour  the  boiling 
wine  on  the  eggs,  stirring  it  all  the  time.    Be 
careful  not  to  pour  the  eggs  into  the  wine,  or 
they  will  curdle. 

928.  Regent  Punch.     14  each  lemons 
and  oranges,   the  rinds    only,    18J  drachms 
ground  cinnamon,  £  drachm  ground  cloves, 
2  drachms  ground  vanilla.     Cut,  macerate  for 
24  hours  with  2  gallons  pure  Cognac,  and  2 
gallons  pure  Jamaica  rum.     Strain,  press,  and 
add  12  pounds  of  sugar,  boiled  with  6  gal- 
lons water;    skim,  and  add  to  the  syrup  2 
ounces  green  tea;    let  it  cool,  and  add  the 
juice  of  60  lemons  and  14  oranges.      Filter 
through  Canton  flannel. 

929.  Bottle  Wax.     Shellac,  2  pounds; 
resin,  4  pounds ;  Venice  turpentine,  1|  pounds; 
red  lead,  1-J-  pounds.      Fuse  the  shellac  and 
resin  cautiously  in  a  bright  copper  pan,  over 
a  clear  charcoal  fire.    When  melted  add  the 
turpentine,  and   lastly,  mix  in  the  red  lead. 
Pour  into  moulds,  or  form  sticks  of  the  de- 
sired size  on  a  warm  marble  plate.    The  gloss 
may  be  produced  by  polishing  the  sticks  with 
a  rag  until  they  are  cold. 

930.  Corking.     Little  can  be  said  with 

regard  to  the 
corkingofbot- 
tles,  beyond 
stating  the 
fact  that  com- 
mon, cheap 
corks,  are  al- 
ways dear; 
the  best  corks 

w-     ,  are  soft,  vel- 

vety, and  free 

from  large  pores;  if  squeezed  they  become 
more  elastic  and  fit  more  closely.  If  good 
corks  are  used,  of  sufficiently  large  size  to 
be  extracted  without  the  corkscrew,  they 
may  be  employed  many  times  in  succession, 
especially  if  they  are  soaked  in  boiling  water, 
which  restores  them  to  their  original  shape, 
and  renews  their  elasticity.  The  most  common 
mode  of  fastening  down  corks  is  with  the 
gingerbeer  knot,  which 
is  thus  made.  First  the 
loop  is  formed  as  in  Fig. 
1,  then  that  part  of  the 
string  which  passes 
across  the  loop  is  placed 
Fig.  2.  on  the  top  of  the  cork, 

and  the  loop  itself  passed  down  around  the 
neck  of  the  bottle,  and  by  pulling  the  ends  of 
the  cord  is  made  tight  beneath  the  rim ;  the 


Fig.  3. 

ends  of  the  string  are  finally  brought  up,  and 
tied  either  in  a  double  knot  or  in  a  bow  on  the . 
top  of  the  cork.  When  ginger-beer  is  made  at 
home  it  will  be  found  most  advantageous  to 
use  the  best  corks,  and  to  tie  them  down  with 
a  bow,  when  both  corks  and  strings  may  be 
made  use  of  repeatedly.  For  effervescent 


106 


BREWING. 


•wines,  such  as  champagne,  gooseberry,  &c., 
•which  require  to  be  kept  a  longer  time,  and 


Fig.  4 

are  more  valuable,  a  securer  knot  is  desirable, 
which  may  be  made  thus :  A  loop,  as  in  Fig. 
2,  is  first  formed,  and  the  lower  end  is  then 
turned  upwards  and 
( carried  behind  the  loop 
•*  as  shown  in  Fig.  3;  it 
is  then  pulled  through 
the  loop  as  in  Fig.  4, 
and  in  this  state  is  put 
over  the  neck  of  the 
bottle;  the  part  a  being 
on  one  side,  and  the 
two  parts  of  the  loop 
on  the  other ;  on  pull- 
ing the  two  ends  the 
whole  becomes  tight 
_.  round  the  neck,  and 

J!\g,  5.  j.Qe  en(jg>  -which  should 

be  quite  opposite,  are  to  be  brought  up  over 
the  cork,  twice  twisted,  as  in  Fig.  5,  and  then 
tied  in  a  single  knot. 

931.  Distillation   of    Whiskey    and 
New  England  Rum.     The  process  of  dis- 
tillation commences  with  the  fermentation  of 
grain  or  molasses  by  the  presence  of  yeast, 
and  this  is  called  mashing,  or  preparing  the 
mash.     Strictly  speaking,  indeed,  the  spirits 
are  not  produced  by  distillation :  that  is  done 
by  the  previous  step  of  fermentation,  and  dis- 
tillation merely  separates  the  spirits  from  the 
mixture  in  which  they  already  exist.    The 
object  of  fermentation  is  to  convert  the  starchy 
principle  of  the  grain  into  sugar,  or  to  sac- 
charify it.  After  being  agitated  for  2  or  3  hours, 
the  saccharine  infusion,  called  wort,  is  drawn 
off  from  the  grains  and  cooled.     To  this  wort 
is  now  added  a  certain  quantity  of  yeast  or 
leaven,  which  induces  the  vinous  fermentation, 
and  resolves  the  saccharine  matter  into  alco- 
hol and  carbonic  acid,  accompanied  by  a  rise 
of  temperature.     The  alcoholic  mixture  which 
results  is  called  the  wash,  and  is  now  ready  for 
distillation. 

932.  How  to  Prepare  Yeast  for  Rye 
Whiskey    or  New  England  Rum.     To 
prepare  yeast  for  80    gallons  mash,  take  2 
pounds  of  wheat  meal  and  dilute  it  with  suffi- 
cient warm  water  to  make  a  thin  paste.     Then 
boil  2  ounces  of  hops  in  a  quart  of  water,  and 
when  cold  take  out  the  hops  and  throw  them 
away.     Then  dilute  1  quart  of  malt  in  a  quart 
of  water.     Mix,   cold,  the  hop  water,  paste 
and  malt  well  together,  and  add  half  a  pound 
of  leaven.     Cover  the  jar  containing  the  mix- 
ture with  a  piece  of  cloth,  and  keep  it  3  or  4 
hours  in  sonic  warm  place  until  it  rises.     The 
fermentation  will  be  perfect  after  the  whole 
has  arisen  and  then  sunk  down.     Then  add  2 
gallons  of  the  mash,  stir  the  whole,  mix  it 
with  80  gallons  of  the  mash,  and  begin  the 
fermentation.    This  receipt  is  the  very  best 
for  rye  whiskey. 

933.  To  Prepare  Yeast  for  New  Eng- 
land Rum.     To  80  gallons  mash,  add  1  gal- 


lon brewers'  yeast  and  4  pound  carbonate  of 
ammonia  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  water.  Stir 
well,  and  begin  the  fermentation.  Good  for 
New  England  rum. 

934.  To    Prepare    Yeast    for    Rye 
Whiskey.     To  80  gallons  of  mash,  add  1 
gallon  yeast,  5  quarts  of  malt,  aud  1  pound 
of  molasses.     Dilute  the  inalt  with  2  quarts  of 
water,  and  add  the  molasses.    Keep  the  whole 
in  a  warm  place  until  it  rises,  as  described  in 
No.  931.     Add  the  yeast  to  the  mash  and  stir; 
afterwards  add  the  molasses  and  malt  and  stir 
again.     Then  begin  the  fermentation.     Good 
for  rye  whiskey. 

935.  How  to  Prepare  Mash  for  New 
England  Rum.     For  a  still  by  steam  or  fire. 
To  prepare  80  gallons  rnash,   reduce  the  mo- 
lasses 18  degrees  by  the  saccharometer,  add 
yeast  No.    932,   and  stir  well.     Let  it    fer- 
ment at  a  temperature  of  75°  Fahrenheit,  un- 
til the  mash  is  reduced  to  0.     But  as  it  is  very 
difficult  to  get  such  a  reduction,  the  operator 
may  begin  to  distill  when  the  mash  marks  2 
or  3  degrees  by  the  saccharometer.     Charge 
three-fourths  of  the  still,  and  begin  distilling. 

936.  How  to  Prepare  Mash  for  Rye 
Whiskey.     For  a  still  by  steam  or  fire.     To 
prepare  80  gallons  mash,  grind  the  rye  into 
coarse  powder,  then  charge  the  fermenting 
tubs  in  the  proportion  of  110  pounds  of  rye  to 
80  gallons  of  water,   and  mix  yeast  No.  931 
or  933.    Let  it  ferment  at  a  temperature  of 
75°  or  80°   Fahr.,  until  the  fermentation  is 
completed.     The  fermentation  will  be  perfect 
after  the  mash  rises  and  sinks.     "When  this  is 
done,  charge  three-fourths  of  the  still  and  be- 
gin distilling.     In  preparing  the  mash,  the  op- 
erator may  use  all  rye,  as  directed  above — this 
makes  the  best  quality  of  whiskey — or  use 
three-fifths  rye  and  two-fifths  corn,  or  three- 
fifths  corn  aud  two-fifths  rye. 

937.  Distillation  with  or  without  a 
Heater.     Distillers  usually  employ  a  heater 
to  hasten  the  process  of  distillation.     "When 
the  heater  is  employed,  the  mash  passes  from 
the  fermenting  tubs  into  the  heater.     During 
the  time  occupied  in  distilling  over  the  charge 
of  the  still,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  a  heat  of 
125  degrees  in  the  heater.     The  mash  passes 
directly  from  the  heater  into    the    still  by 
means  of  a  pipe  or  gutter,  according  to  the 
general  arrangement  of  the  apparatus.   Distill 
until  the   spirit  which  runs  from  the  worm 
marks  10  degrees  below  proof.     This  first  run 
is  called  high  wine.     Then  remove  the  receiv- 
er that  contains  the  high  wine,  and  substitute 
another.      Continue  to   distill  until  the  low 
wine  ceases  to  blaze  when  it  is  thrown  in  the 
fire.    "Whenever  this  occurs,  stop  the  opera- 
tion, and  keep  the  low  wine  for  the  next  dis- 
tillation.   Then  clean  the  still  and  charge  it 
with  fresh  mash.     "When  the  operator  does 
not  employ  the  heater,  the  mash  passes  from 
the  fermenting  tubs  immediately  into  the  still. 
No  uniform  disposition  is  necessary  for  the 
fermenting  tubs  or  heater ;  all  depends  upon 
the  general  arrangement  of   the  'apparatus. 
The  distiller  need  not  be  informed  that  the 
apparatus  must  be  arranged  so  as  to  save  la- 
bor.    If  the  mash  tubs  are  above  the   still, 
connect  them  by  a  gutter  or  pipe ;  if  on  a  lev- 
el with  the  still,  employ  a  hand  pump. 

938.  How  to  Pack  a  Rectifying  Tub. 
To  rectify  from  10  below  proof  to  50  abnvo 


PERFUMER  T. 


proof.  30  bushels  of  inaple  charcoal  are  re- 
quired for  a  tub  seven  feet  high  and  four  feet 
in  diameter;  a  tub  of  this  size  will  give  a 
clear  bed  of  14  inches.  At  two  inches  from 
the  bottom  of  the  tub  place  a  false  bottom 
perforated  with  i-inch  holes,  and  cover  this 
bottom  with  sailcloth  or  blanket.  Then  pack 
in  the  charcoal  regularly  and  very  tightly 
with  a  wooden  pestle.  Great  attention  should 
be  given  to  this  part  of  the  operation,  in  or- 
der to  prevent  the  occurrence  of  holes  or 
crevices  in  the  charcoal  during  the  process  of 
nitration.  Pack  the  sides  of  the  tub  thor- 
oughly. Cover  the  charcoal  with  sailcloth, 
place  laths  over  the  cloth,  and  use  heavy 
Btones  to  keep  the  charcoal  down. 


Perfumery.  The  receipts  in  this 
department  embrace  a  great  variety  of 
odorous  essences,  extracts,  tinctures,  oils,  po- 
mades, cosmetics,  dentifrices,  and  other  articles 
of  the  toilet,  and  are  all  derived  from  the 
latest  and  best  authorities. 

940.  How  to  Prepare  Essences  and 
Perfumed  Spirits.  The  scented  spirits  of 
the  perfumer  are  merely  alcoholic  solutions  of 
the  aromatic  and  odorous  principles  of  the 
substances  they  represent,  obtained  in  one  or 
other  of  the  following  ways: — By  simply  add- 
ing essential  oil  or  other  odoriferous  matter  to 
the  spirit,  and  agitating  them  together  until  so- 
lution is  complete.  Occasionally  the  resulting 
alcoholic  solution  is  distilled.  By  macerating 
ordigesting  the  ingredients  (previously  bruised 
or  pulverized)  in'the  spirit,  with  frequent  agi- 
tation, for  a  few  days,  when  the  resulting 
tincture  is  either  decanted  and  filtered  (if  ne- 
cessary), or  the  whole  is  thrown  into  a  still, 
and  submitted  to  distillation  by  a  gentle  heat. 
In  the  former  case,  the  spirit  retained  in  the 
pores  of  the  solid  ingredients,  and  which,  con- 
sequently, cannot  be  drawn  off,  is  obtained  by 
powerful  pressure.  (See  Nos.  39  and  40.) 
By  digesting  the  spirit,  with  frequent  agita- 
tion on  highly  scented  pomade  or  oil,  in  a 
close  vessel,  at  a  gentle  heat  for  some  hours, 
and  the  next  day  decanting  the  perfumed 
spirit.  (See  No.  40.)  Distillation  is  only  ap- 
plicable to  substances  of  which  the  fragrant 
principles  are  volatile,  and  readily  pass  over 
with  the  spirit  during  the  process.  Thus, 
flowers,  flowering  tops,  herbs,  seeds,  &c.,  may, 
in  general,  be  so  treated ;  but  not  musk,  am- 
bergris, vanilla,  and  a  few  other  substances, 
of  which  the  odor  is  of  a  more  fixed  nature. 
(Sec  No.  13.)  In  proceeding  by  distillation, 
one  of  the  first  points  to  be  attended  to  is,  to 
see  that  the  still,  condensing- worm,  or  refri- 
gerator, and  the  receiver,  be  perfectly  clean 
and  sweet,  and  absolutely  free  from  the  odor 
of  any  previous  distillation.  The  lute  em- 
ployed to  secure  the  still-head  or  capital  to 
the  still  must  also  be  of  a  simple  character, 
incapable  of  conveying  any  taint  to  the  hot 
vapor  that  comes  in  contact  with  it.  (Linseed- 
meal  or  equal  weights  of  linseed-meal  and 
whiting,  made  into  a  stiff  paste  or  dough  with 
water,  is  a  good  lute  for  the  purpose.  Sweet 
almond-cake  meal  is  still  better.)  The  most 
convenient  and  manageable  source  of  heat  is 
high-pressure  steam  supplied  from  an  adjacent 
boiler,  the  body  of  the  still  being  enclosed  in 


107 

a  steam-jacket  for  the  purpose.  A  water-bath, 
the  boiling-point  of  which  should  be  raised 
by  the  addition  of  about  i  its  weight  of  com- 
mon salt,  comes  next  in  point  of  convenience 
and  effect.  When  the  still  is  exposed  to  the 
heat  of  a  naked  fire,  or  that  of  dry  flues,  a 
little  water  must  be  put  into  it  along  with  the 
spirit  and  other  ingredients,  to  prevent  empy- 
reuma ;  and  the  greatest  care  must  be  taken 
to  stop  the  process,  and  to  remove  the  re- 
ceiver, as  soon  as  the  proper  quantity  of  dis- 
tillate is  obtained.  If  this  be  neglected,  the 
odor  of  the  whole  may  be  vitiated.  Moder- 
ately rapid  distillation  is  favorable  to  the 
odor  of  the  product,  as  is  also  the  elevation 
of  the  boiling-point  in  the  liquid  operated  on. 
Spirit .  distilled  from  aromatics  decreases  in 
odor  with  the  boiling-point  of  the  ingredients 
in  the  still.  To  raise  the  latter,  the  addition 
of  1  to  1£  pounds  of  common  salt  per  gallon 
is  often  advantageously  made.  (See  Nos. 
5,  6  and  7.)  By  one  or  other  of  the  above 
methods,  or  a  combination  of  them,  are,  in 
general,  prepared  all  the  "eaux,"  "esprits," 
and  "extraits,"  of  the  perfumers.  As  a  rule, 
extraits  and  essences  are  preferred  to  eaux 
and  esprits  as  the  basis  of  good  perfumery, 
when  the  color  is  not  objectionable.  "What- 
ever process  is  adopted,  the  utmost  care  must 
be  taken  in  the  selection  of  the  spirit  used. 
Only  spirit  that  is  absolutely  pure,  flavorless, 
and  scentless,  must  be  employed,  if  we  desire 
the  product  to  be  of  fine  quality.  Malt-spirit 
or  corn-spirit  contaminated,  even  in  the  very 
slightest  degree,  with  fusel-oil  or  corn-oil,  or  a 
whiskey-odor,  is  utterly  unfit  for  the  purpose. 
So  also  the  refined  methylated  spirit  now  so 
commonly  and  fraudulently  sold  as  spirit  of 
wine.  The  extreme  purity  of  the  spirit  em- 
ployed by  the  Frenchmanufacturingperfumers 
— it  being  actually  spirit  of  wine,  and  not 
merely  so  in  name — is  one  of  the  reasons  why 
their  odoriferous  spirits  are  so  much  superior 
to  those  of  the  American  houses.  Great  care 
must  also  be  taken  in  the  selection  of  the  es- 
sential oils  intended  to  be  employed  in  making 
perfumed  spirits.  These  should  be  pure  or 
genuine,  and  should  be  pale  and  recent,  or  of 
the  last  season's  distillation.  If  they  be  old, 
or  have  been  much  exposed  to  the  air,  they 
will  contain  more  or  less  resin,  and  their  alco- 
holic solution  will  be  defective  in  fragrance, 
and  be  liable  to  permanently  stain  delicate 
articles  of  clothing  to  which  it  may  be  ap- 
plied. The  strength  of  the  spirit  used  for 
concentrated  essences,  as  a  rule,  should  not 
be  less  than  90  per  cent.,  or  of  the  specific 
gravity  .8332.  A  few  require  a  spirit  of  even 
greater  strength  than  this.  The  first  quality 
of  extraits,  particularly  those  prepared  from 
pomades  and  oils,  and  many  of  the  eaux  and 
esprits,  also  require  90  per  cent,  spirit.  The 
strength  of  the  spirit  for  the  others,  and  for 
second  qualities  (commonly  sold  as  the  best 
in  the  stores),  must  be  fully  75  per  cent.,  or  of 
the  specific  gravity  .8765 ;  that  of  the  third 
quality  fully  70  per  cent.,  or  specific  gravity 
.8892;  and  that  of  the  fourth  quality  fully 
proof,  or  specific  gravity  .920.  The  last  is 
the  lowest  quality,  and  the  weakest  of  any 
kind  made  by  respectable  perfumers ;  but  the 
double  distilled  lavender-water,  eau  de  Co- 
logne, and  other  scents,  vended  in  little  showy 
bottles,  by  the  druggists,  and  in  fancy-stores, 


108 


PERFUMERY. 


are  commonly  even  much  weaker  than  this, 
being  often  under  proof.  (See  No.  1435.)  The 
capacity  of  spirit,  at  this  strength,  of  dissolv- 
ing essential  oil  and  other  odorous  matter  is, 
however,  very  little.  The  solvent  power  of 
spirit  decreases  with  its  strength,  but  much 
more  rapidly.  (Cooley.) 

941.  Essences.      The   term    essence   is 
generally  very  loosely  applied  to  a  prepara- 
tion of  almost  any  kind,  that  is  supposed  to 
contain  in  a  high  degree  the  essential  or  dis- 
tinctive principle  or  quality  of  some  substance. 
Thus,  the  essential  or  volatile  oils  obtained 
from  vegetable    substances    by    distillation; 
concentrated    infusions,  decoctions,  aqueous 
solutions,  and  tinctures,  are  all  often  errone- 
ously termed  essences. 

In  perfumery  the  word  "essence"  is  ap- 
plied only  to  a  solution  of  an  essential  oil  in 
deodorized  alcohol,  in  the  proportion,  usually, 
of  2  drachms  to  2  ounces  of  the  essential  oil 
to  1  quart  of  rectified  spirits.  Sometimes  an 
essence,  using  the  term  in  its  correct  sense,  is 
distilled,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  water; 
it  is  then  called  distilled  aromatic  spirits. 

942.  Essences   of  Flowers.     The  es- 
sences of  those  flowers  which  are  not  separate- 
ly given  in  this  work,  may  be  made  by  one  or 
other  of  the  following  general  formulae.    Take 
of  essential  oil  (of  the  respective  flowers),  1 
ounce  avoirdupois,  and  rectified  spirit  90  per 
cent.  1  pint  (Imperial);  dissolve  as  directed 
for  "  Essence  of  Almonds."    Or,  take  of  the 
(respective)   flowers,  3  to  5  pounds;    proof 
spint,  2  gallons ;   digest  for  a  few  days,  and 
then  draw  over,  by  distillation,  1  gallon  of 
essence.      For    those  flowers    that  are    not 
strongly  fragrant,  the  product  may  be  distilled 
a  second  and  a  third  time,  or  even  oftener, 
from  fresh  flowers,  as  noticed  under  "  Essence 
of  Roses."    The  products  obtained  by  distilla- 
tion are  always  colorless ;  and  hence  flowers 
rich  in  color  may,  in  general,  be  advantage- 
ously so  treated.   The  flowers  should  be  select- 
ed when  in  their  state  of  highest  fragrance ; 
and  should  be  picked  to  pieces,  or  crashed  or 
bruised,  as  their  nature  may  indicate.     With 
many,  the  last  is  facilitated  by  the  addition  of 
some  clean  sand  or  common  salt.    Or,  proceed 
in    the    way  described    under    "  Essence  of 
Tuberose."    This  applies  to  most  of  those 
flowers  that  contain  little  fragrant  oil,  and  of 
which  the  odor  is    extremely  delicate.     A 
small  quantity  of  some  other  odorous  essence 
or  volatile    oil    is  commonly  added  to    the 
simple  essences  of  flowers,  at  will,  to  enrich 
or  modify  the  fragrance,  each  manufacturer 
usually  pursuing  his  own  taste  in  the  matter. 
In  some  cases,  spirit  is  impregnated  with  a 
combination  of  essential  oils  and  other  odorous 
substances,  so  as  to  produce,  artificially,  an 
odor  resembling  or  approaching  that  of  the 
particular  flowers  after  which  the  products  are 
named ;  although  there  may  be  none  of  the 
respective  flowers  employed  in  their  prepara- 
tion.    This  is  particularly  the  case  with  flowers 
of  which  the  odorous  principle  is  difficult  or 
troublesome  to  extract,  or  which  possess  very 
little  of  it.    So  also  of  the  essences  of  many 
flowers  having  strange  or  attractive  names, 
and  no  true  fragrance.     Hence  arises  the  al- 
most endless  variety  of  fragrant    essences, 
esprits,  and  similar  preparations,  vended  by 
the  perfumers  of  the  present  day,  numbers  of 


which  are    mere  artificial    combinations    of 
other  perfumes.     ( Cooley. ) 

943.  Essence  of  Almonds;   Essence 
of  Bitter  Almonds ;  Essence  of  Peach- 
kernels;  Almond  Flavor.     Take  of  essen- 
tial oil  of  almonds,  1  fluid  ounce ;  and  recti- 
fied spirit  (90  per  cent.),  19  fluid  ounces ; 
mix,  and  agitate  or  shake  them  together  until 
united. 

944.  Essence  of  Roses.     Take  of  pure 
otto  of  roses  li  drachms  (Troy)  ;  and  alcohol 
(96  per  cent.)  1  pint  (Imperial) ;  mix,  place 
the  bottle  in  a  vessel  of  warm  water  until  its 
contents  acquire  the  temperature  of  about  85° 
Fahr.,  then  cork  it  close,  and  agitate  it  smart- 
ly until  the  whole  is  quite  cold.    Very  fine. 

945.  Extra  Essence  of  Roses.    Take 
of  petals  of  roses  (fresh)  3  pounds  avoirdu- 
pois;  and  rectified  spirit  (90  per  cent.)    5 
Imperial  quarts ;   digest  the  petals  (picked 
to  pieces)  in  the  spirit  for  24  hours,  then  distill 
to  dryness  by  the  heat  of  a  water-bath.     Di- 
gest the  distillate  (product  of  distillation)  on 
a  fresh  quantity  of  rose-petals,  and  re-distill, 
as  before;   and  repeat  the  whole  process  of 
maceration  and  distillation  a  third,  fourth, 
fifth,  and  sixth  time,  or  oftener,  the  last  time 
observing  to  conduct  the  distillation  rapidly, 
and  to  draw  over  only  1  gallon,  which  is  the 
essence.    Delicately  and  delightfully  fragrant. 
It  improves  by  age.    The  product  of  each  of 
the  above  receipts  is  very  superior ;  but  that 
of  the  last  has  a  peculiar  delicacy  of  flavor, 
which  distinguishes  it  from  those  prepared 
from  the  otto.    Some  makers  add  to  each 
pint  of  the  former  20  or  30  drops  each  oil  of 
bergamot  and  neroli,   and   15  or    20    drops 
essence  of  musk ;  but  the  product  of  the  last 
formula  is  scarcely  improved  by  any  addition, 
unless  it  be  a  very  little  neroli  or  essence 
d'ambrette,  or  both,  as  the  case  may  indicate. 
The  best  rose  leaves  to  use  are  those  of  the 
rosa  centifolia  (cabbage-rose,  damask-rose),  or 
rosa  sempervirens  (musk-rose),  or  mixtures  of 
them. 

946.  Essence  of  Rondeletia ;  Extrait 
de  Rondeletia.     Various  formulae  are  cur- 
rent for  this    exquisite    perfume,   of   which 
scarcely  any  produce  an  article  approaching 
in  excellence  the  proprietary  one.     The  fol- 
lowing is  an  exception :    Take  of  oil  of  laven- 
der (Mitcham),  |  ounce  avoirdupois;  oil  of 
cloves  (finest),  5  drachms  avoirdupois  :  oil  of 
bergamot,  4  drachms ;  i  drachm  each  of  the 
finest  essence  of  ambergris  and  musk ;  recti- 
fied   spirit    (strongest),    f    Imperial    pint; 
agitate  them  together  until  completely  united. 
Some  persons  add  ^  drachm  of  neroli,  or  of 
oil  of  verbena  (Indian  lemon-grass),  with  or 
without  10  or  12  drops  of  otto  of  roses.     Very 
fine. 

947.  Curious  Essence.    Take  of  otto 
of  roses  2  drachms;   oil  of  rose- geranium,  1 
drachm;   essence  of  musk,  3  Imperial  fluid 
drachms ;    essence  of  ambergris,  1  Imperial 
fluid  drachm ;  rectified  spirit  (warm),  1  pint ; 
mix,  closely  cork  the  bottle,  and  agitate  fre- 
quently until  cold.    A  powerful,  durable,  and 
very  agreeable  perfume. 

948.  Essence   de    Frangipane;    Ex- 
trait     de    Frangipane;     Frangipanni. 
Take  of  neroli,  2   Imperial  fluid  drachms; 
essence  royale,  3  fluid  drachms ;  civet  (pow- 
dered), 10  grains  avoirdupois ;  oil  of  lavender, 


PERFUMERY. 


109 


oil  of  cloves,  oil  of  rhodium,  of  each,  5  or  6 
drops;  rectified  spirit,  3£  to  4J  fluid  ounces  ; 
digest  a  week,  and  then  decant  the  clear  por- 
tion. Powerful,  durable,  and  pleasant. 

949.  Essence  of  Violets ;  Essence  of 
Orris ;  Factitious.     Take  of  Florentine  or- 
ris-root (coarsely  powdered),  1£  pounds  avoir- 
dupois;    rectified    spirit,    1   Imperial  quart; 
proceed  by  percolation  or  the  method  of  dis- 
placement, so  as  to  obtain  1  quart  of  essence  ; 
or  by  digestion  for  two  weeks,  followed  by 
powerful  pressure  in  a  tincture-press.     The 
former  is    the    best    and    most    economical 
method.     This  forms  the  best  essence  of  vio- 
lets of  the  wholesale  druggists.     It  may  be, 
but  is  rarely,  distilled.     (See  No.  954.) 

950.  Essence  of  Cologne;    Cologne- 
Essence  ;  Concentrated  Eau  de  Cologne. 
This  is  prepared  from  the  same  odorous  in- 
gredients as  "  Eau  de  Cologne,"  but  taking  7 
or  8  times  the  quantity,  and  using  alcohol  or 
the  strongest  rectified  spirit,  without  which  a 
permanent  solution  of  the  whole  of  them  can- 
not be  formed.    Used  as  a  condensed  and 
convenient  substitute  for  ordinary  "Eau  de 
Cologne  "  by  travelers,  being  less  bulky.    It 
is  also  kept  in  stock  by  druggists  and  per- 
fumers, to  enable  them  to  prepare  that  article 
extemporaneously,  by  simply  diluting  it  with 
8  times  its  bulk  of  spirit  of  the  appropriate 
strength. 

951.  Essence  of  Orange  ;  Essence  of 
Orange-peel.     Oil  of  orange-peel  is  popular- 
ly so  called.     The  alcoholic  essence  is  made 
from  this  oil  like  essence  of  almonds.     (See 
No.  943.) 

952.  Essence  of  Pimento;    Essence 
of  Allspice.     Prepared  from  oil  of  pimento, 
as  essence  of  almonds.     Sometimes  used  in 
compound  perfumes  and  cosmetics,  and  for 
toothache ;  but  chiefly  as  a  flavoring  essence. 

953.  Essence   of  Pineapple.      From 
pineapple    oil  (butyric    ether),   as  the  last. 
Sometimes  taken  on  sugar,  by  smokers  ;  but 
chiefly  used  by  confectioners,  liqueur  manu- 
facturers, &c.     (See  No.  1060.) 

954.  Essence     of    Tuberose.      The 
flowers  are   placed  in  alternate  layers  with 
sheep's  or  cotton  wool  impregnated  with  the 
purest  oil  of  ben  or  of  olives,  in  an  earthen  ves- 
sel, closely  covered,  and  kept  for  12  hours  in  a 
water  bath;    the  flowers  are  then  removed 
and   fresh    ones   substituted,  and  this  is  re- 
peated until  the  oil  is  sufficiently  scented. 
The  wool  or  cotton  is  then  mixed  with  the 
purest  spirit  of  wine,  and  distilled  in  a  water 
bath ;  or,  it  is  first  digested  in  a  well  closed 
vessel  for  several  days  in  a  warm  situation, 
with  frequent  agitation.     A  similar  plan  is 
followed  for  the  preparation  of  the  essences  of 
jasmine,  violets,  &c.     (See  No.  1349.) 

955.  Essence  of  Lemons.     From  oil 
of  lemon,  as  essence  of  almonds.     (See  No. 
943.)     For  this  purpose  the  oil  should  have 
been  recently  expressed,  and  preserved  from 
the  air.     A  dash  of  essence  of  musk  improves 
it  as  a  perfume,  but  not  as  a  flavoring  essence. 
Oil  of  lemon  is  popularly  called  essence   of 
lemons. 

956.  Concentrated  Essence  of  Musk. 
Take  of  grain-musk  (Tonquin  or  Chinese),  1 
ounce    avoirdupois ;    boiling  distilled   water, 
J  Imperial  pint;    digest  them  together  in  a 
close  vessel,  with  frequent   agitation,  until 


quite  cold,  then  add  3£  pints  rectified  spirit 
(95  per  cent.),  i  fluid  ounce  liquor  of  am- 
monia (.880-.885  specific  gravity),  and,  having 
closely  corked  or  stopped  the  vessel  and 
securely  tied  it  over  with  bladder,  digest  the 
whole  for  1  or  2  months,  with  frequent  agita- 
tion, in  a  room  exposed  to  the  sun,  in  sum- 
mer, or  in  an  equally  warm  situation  in  win- 
ter. Lastly,  after  repose,  decant  the  clear 
portion,  and,  if  necessary,  filter  it.  A  little 
essence  of  ambergris  is  commonly  added  to 
the  filtrate,  or,  when  this  is  not  done,  1  to  2 
drachms  of  ambergris  are  put  into  the  vessel 
before  closing  it,  and  after  adding  the  spirit. 
Yery  fine.  The  residuum  is  treated  with 
fresh  spirit  for  an  inferior  quality. 

957.  Fine  Essence  of  Musk.    Take  i 
ounce  finest  grain-musk,  civet  and  ambergris 
each  1  drachm,  strongest  essence  d'ambrette, 
k  pint.     Instead  of  the  ambergris,  1  to  l| 
fluid  ounces  of  essence  of  ambergris  may  be 
added  after  decantation.      The   quantity  of 
civet  ordered  should  on  no  account  be  ex- 
ceeded.   This  produces  the  finest  quality  of 
the  Paris  houses. 

958.  Common    Essence    of    Musk. 
Take    f    ounce  (avoidupois)    grain-musk,  1 
quart  (Imperial)  rectified  spirit  (95  per  cent.), 
and  2  fluid  ounces  finest  essence  of  ambergris ; 
digest,  <tc.,  as  before.    Excellent ;  but  greatly 
inferior  to  the  others.     Essence  of  musk  is  an 
agreeable  and  powerful  perfume,  and  is  great- 
ly esteemed  in  the  fashionable  world.    Its 
odor  is  so  durable  that  articles  scented  with 
it  will  retain  the  fragrance  for  years.    The 
product  of  each  of  the  above  is  of  very  fine 
quality ;    but  that  of  No.  957     is  the  very 
finest  that  is  made,  and  such  as  is  seldom 
sold,  except  by  the  high-class  perfumers,  who 
obtain  for  it  a  very  high  price.    It  is  power- 
fully and  deliciously  fragrant. 

959.  Best  Way  to  Prepare  the  Es- 
sence   of  Musk   and  Ambergris.    The 
best  vessel  for  preparing  essence  of  musk,  as 
well  as  of  ambergris,  is  a  strong  tin-bottle 
with    a   nicely  rounded    mouth    and    neck. 
Great  care  should  be  taken  to  cork  it  perfect- 
ly close,  and,  after  this  is  done,  to  tie  it  over 
securely  with  wet  bladder.    The  bottle  should 
not  be  set  in  the  full  sunshine,  but  only  in  a 
position  warmed  by  it ;  and  in  no  case  should 
the  digestion  be  of  shorter  duration  than  three 
or  four  weeks,  as  otherwise  much  fragrant 
matter  will  escape  solution.     The  addition  of 

to  1  fluid  drachm,  per  pint,  of  liquor  of  am- 
monia, or  of  liquor  of  potassa  (the  first  is 
greatly  preferable),  increases  the  solvent 
power  of  the  spirit  and  vastly  increases  the 
fragrance  of  the  essence.  A  few  grains  of 
salt  of  tartar  (carbonate  of  potash)  are  some- 
times added  with  the  same  intention;  but 
this  addition  is  objectionable,  as  it  does  not 
effect  the  object  in  view,  whilst  it  occasions 
partial  decomposition  of  the  mixture.  To 
:acilitate  the  action  of  the  menstruum,  and  to 
make  the  most  of  the  ingredients,  it  is  best  to 
rub  down  the  musk,  &c.,  with  a  little  pow- 
dered glass,  sand,  or  lump  sugar,  as  noticed 
under  "Essence  of  Ambergris."  Filtration 
and  exposure  to  the  air  should,  if  possible,  be 
avoided. 

960.  Essence  Boyale.      Take  of  am- 
bergris,  40   grains  avoirdupois ;    grain-musk 
(pure),   20   grains ;    civet  and  carbonate  of 


no 


PERFUMERY. 


potassa,  of  each  10  grains ;  oil  of  cinnamon,  6 
drops ;  oil  of  rhodium  and  otto  of  roses,  of 
each  4  drops;  rectified  spirit,  4  Imperial 
fluid  ounces ;  digest,  with  agitation,  for  10  or 
12  days,  or  longer.  Very  fragrant.  The 
above  is  a  celebrated  receipt,  but  we  think  it 
would  be  improved  by  substituting  12  drops 
liquor  of  ammonia  for  the  carbonate  of  po- 
tassa. (See  last  receipt.) 

961.  Essence  of  Neroli;    Essence  of 
Orange  Blossoms ;  or  Essence  de  Fleurs 
d'Oranges.      Dissolve   k  ounce  avoirdupois 
pure  neroli  in  rectified  spirit,  1  Imperial  pint. 
An  ounce  of  essence  of  jasmine,  jonquille,  or 
violets,  is  often  added.    A  delicate  and  deli- 
cious perfume. 

962.  Essence  of  Storax  (or  Styrax) ; 
Extract  of  Storax.     Take  1  ounce  avoirdu- 
pois finest  genuine  liquid  storax  and  £  Impe- 
rial pint  rectified  spirit ;  digest, with  agitation, 
for  a  week,  and  then  decant  the  clear  portion. 

963.  Essence  of  Ambergris ;   or  Con- 
centrated Tincture  of  Ambergris.     Take 
10  drachms  avoirdupois  95  per  cent,  amber- 
grisand  1  Irnperialpintrectified  spirit,  putthem 
into  a  strong  bottle  or  tin  can,  secure  the  mouth 
perfectly  and  very  firmly,  and  keep  the  vessel 
in  a  room  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  sun,  or 
equally  warm,  for  a  month  or  two,  observing 
to  briskly  agitate  it  daily  during  the  whole 
time.    Lastly,  after  repose,  decant  the  clear 
portion,  and,   if   necessary,   filter  it  rapidly 
through  soft  blotting  paper.    Very  fine.     It 
forms  the  strongest  and  finest  simple  essence  of 
ambergris  of  the  Paris  houses.    (See  No.  959.) 
The  common  practice  in  making  the  essence 
is  to  cut  the  ambergris  up  small  before  digest- 
ing it;  but  a  much  better  plan  is  to  rub  down 
both  the  ambergris  and  musk  with  a  little 
powdered  glass,  clean  silicious  sand,  or  dry 
lump-sugar,  observing  afterwards  to  rinse  the 
mortar  out  well  two  or  three  times,  with  por- 
tions of  the  spirit,  so  that  nothing  may  be 
lost.     A  second  quality  may  be  made  by  em- 
ploying half  the  quantity  of  ambergris   to 
the  same  amount  01  spirit. 

964.  Essence  of  Ambergris.     Amber- 
gris 10  drachms  avoirdupois;  grain  musk  (Ton- 
quin  or  Chinese  pure),  3  drachms;  rectified 
spirit,  1  quart.     Proceed  as  in  the  last  receipt. 
The  products  of  the  above  two  receipts  form 
a  delightful  perfume  highly  esteemed  in  the 
fashionable  world.    A  very  small  quantity  of 
any  one  of  them  added  to  eau  de  Cologne, 
lavender-water,    tooth-powder,    hair-powder, 
pomades,   wash-balls,   &c.,   communicates    a 
delicious  fragrance.    A  few  drops  added  to 
sweet-scented    spirits,  liqueurs,  wines,   &c., 
improve  their  flavor  and  aroma.     1  or  1^  fluid 
drachms  added  to  a  hogshead  of  claret,  imparts 
a  flavor  and  bouquet  to  the  wine  which  is  re- 
garded by  many  as  delicious. 

965.  Fine  Essence  of  Vanilla.    Take 
h  pound  avoirdupois  finest  vanilla,  and  recti- 
fied spirit,  1  Imperial  quart;  proceed  as  for 
essence  of  musk.      (See  No.   959.)    Lastly, 
press  and  decant  or  filter.    Very  superior.    It 
forms  the  best  quality  vended  by  the  whole- 
sale druggists,  and  is  sold  at  exorbitant  prices. 
This,  as  well  as  the  preceding,  is  chiefly  used 
for  flavoring,  and  as  an  ingredient  in  com- 
pound perfumes  and  cosmetics.    Essence  of 
vanilla  is  a  favorite  and  useful  addition  to 
tooth-cosmetics,  pomades,  &c.    In  preparing 


it,  the  vanilla,  <fcc.,  should  be  cut  small  with 
a  sharp  knife ;  or  what  is  better,  rubbed  down 
with  a  little  powdered  glass,  sand,  or  lump- 
sugar. 

966.  Essence  of  Patchouli ;  Essence 
de  Patchoulie;   or  Essence  de  Poucha- 
pat.    Take  3  pounds  avoirdupois  Indian  patch- 
ouli (leaves  or  foliaceous  tops),  and  rectified 
spirit  9  Imperial  pints ;  digest  for  a  week  in 
a  close  vessel,  add  £  ounce  oil  of  lavender 
(Mitcham)  and  promote  solution  by  agitation. 
Next  throw  the  whole  into  a  still,  and  further 
add  1  gallon  water  and  2  or  3  pounds  com- 
mon salt.     Agitate  the  whole  briskly  together, 
lute  on  the  still-head,  and  distill  over  (rapidly) 
1  gallon.     To  the  distillate  add  £  fluid  ounce 
finest  essence  of  musk;   and  after  10  days' 
repose,  bottle  it.     A  very  fashionable  perfume, 
pai'ticularly  for  personal  use. 

967.  Common  Essence  of  Patchouli. 
1J  ounces  otto  of  patchouli,  J  ounce  otto  of 
rose,  and  1  gallon  rectified  spirit. 

968.  Essence  d'Ambrette ;  or  Essence 
of  Musk-seed.   Take  1J  p'ounds  avoirdupois 
finest  musk-seed ;  grind  it  in  a  clean  pepper- 
mill,  and  digest  it  for  3  or  4  weeks  in  3  pints 
Imperial  rectified  spirit;    the  vessel    being 
closely  stopped  or  corked,  and  kept  in  a  warm 
room  all  the  time.    Lastly  decant,  press  and 
filter. 

969.  Essence  of  Bergamot.     The  pop- 
ular name  of  oil  of  bergamot.     A  spirituous 
essence  may  be  made  in  a  similar  way  to  that 
of  almonds.     (See  No.  943.) 

970.  Essence  of  Cassia.     From  oil  of 
cassia,  as  essence  of  almonds.     (See  No.  943.) 
Uses,  <fcc.,  the  same. 

971.  Essence    of    Cinnamon.     From 
oil    of   cinnamon,    as    essence    of   almonds. 
(See  No.  943. )    Essence  of  cassia  is  commonly 
and  fraudulently  sold  for  it. 

972.  Essence  of  Civet.     Take  1  ounce 
(avoirdupois)  civet  cut  very  small,  and  1  pint 
(Imperial)  rectified    spirit;    proceed    as   for 
essence  of  ambergris  or  musk.     Its  odor  is 
only  agreeable  when  faint  and  combined  with 
that  of  other  substances,  which  it  sustains 
and  increases.    It  is  hence  seldom  or  never 
used  alone. 

973.  Essence  of  Lavender.    Take   1 
ounce  avoirdupois  oil  of  lavender  (Mitcham) 
and  i  Imperial  pint  strongest  rectified  spirit ; 
mix  with  agitation ;  a  few  drops  of  the  es- 
sences of  musk  and  ambergris  being  added  at 
will.     Very  fine. 

974.  To  Extract   the  Essence  from 
any  Flower.     Take  any  flowers  you  choose ; 
place  a  layer  in  a  clean  earthen  pot,  and  over 
them  a  layer  of  fine  salt.     Repeat  the  process 
until  the  pot  is  filled,  cover  closely,  and  place 
in  the  cellar.    Forty  days  afterwards,  strain 
the  essence  from  the  whole  through  a  crape 
by  pressure.     Put  the  essence  thus  expressed 
in  a  clear  bottle,  and  expose  for  six  weeks  in 
the  rays  of  the  sun  and  evening  dew  to  purify. 
One  drop  of  this  essence  will  communicate  its 
odor  to  a  pint  of  water. 

975.  To   Make   Attar,    or    Otto    of 
Roses.     Gather  the  flowers  of  the  hundred- 
leaved  rose  (rosa  centifolia),  put  them  in  a 
large  jar  or  cask,  with  just  sufficient  water  to 
cover  them,  then  put  the  vessel  to  stand  in 
the  sun,  and  in  about  a  week  afterwards  the 
attar — a  butyraceous  oil — will  form  a  scum  on 


COLOGNE    WA  TEE. 


Ill 


the  surface,  which  should  bo  removed  by  the 
aid  of  a  piece  of  cotton. 


Cologne  Water  and  Per- 

\-^  fumed  Spirits.  In  preparing 
eau  de  Cologne,  it  is  essential  that  the  spirit  be  of 
the  purest  description,  both  tasteless  and  scent- 
less, and  that  the  oils  be  not  only  genuine,  but 
recently  distilled;  as  old  oils,  especially  if  they 
have  been  exposed  to  the  air,  are  less  odorous, 
and  contain  a  considerable  quantity  of  resin 
and  camphor,  which  would  prove  injurious. 
French  spirit  of  90  per  cent,  should  be  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  eau  de  Cologne,  and 
when  a  weaker  spirit  is  employed,  the  essen- 
tial oils  must  be  dissolved  in  a  small  quantity 
of  90  or  95  per  cent,  spirit.  Should  the  mix- 
ture afterwards  prove  turbid,  filter  it  through 
paper  with  a  little  carbonate  of  magnesia. 
(See  Nos.  1080  and  1081.)  To  produce  an 
article  of  the  finest  quality,  distillation  should 
be  had  recourse  to ;  but  a  very  excellent  eau 
de  Cologne  may  be  produced  by  simple  solu- 
tion or  maceration  of  the  ingredients  in  the 
spirit,  provided  all  the  essences  be  new,  pale- 
colored,  and  pure. 

The  mass  of  the  eau  de  Cologne  prepared  in 
America,  some  of  which  possesses  the  most 
delicate  fragrance,  and  is  nearly  equal  to  the 
beat  imported,  is  made  without  distillation. 

977.  Piesse's   Best  Quality  Eau  de 
Cologne.     Mix  with  agitation  3  ounces  attar 
of  neroli  p6tale ;  1  ounce  attar  of  neroli  bi- 
garade  ;  2  ounces  attar  of  rosemary ;  5  ounces 
attar  of  orange  zest ;  5  ounces  attar  of  citron 
zest;  and  2  ounces  attar  of  bergamot,  with 
6  gallons  95  per  cent,   grape  spirit.     Let  it 
stand  perfectly  quiet  for  a  few  days.    Although 
very  fine  eau  de  Cologne  is  often  made  by 
merely  mixing  the   ingredients,  it  is  better 
first  to  mix  all  the  citrine  attars  with  spirit, 
then  distill  the  mixture,  and  afterwards  add 
the  rosemary  and  nerolies.    This  method  is 
adopted  by  the  most  popular  house  in  Cologne. 

978.  Eau  de  Cologne.     To  3  pints  alco- 
hol of  95°  add  124  drachms  oil  of  lemon,  1J- 
drachms   oil  of   orange,   2£   drachms   oil    of 
cedrat,  14  drachms  oil  of  vervain,  2i  drachms 
oil  of  bergamot,  2-J  drachms  oil  of  mint,  5 
drachms  oil  of  lavender,  14  drachms  oil  of 
white  thyme,  2  drachms  oil  of  Portugal,   1| 
drachms  oil  of  rosemary,  8  ounces  tincture  of 
ambretta,  and  1  pound  eau  de  melisse ;  (eau 
des  carmes) ;  mix  well  in  a  bottle,  and  after 
standing  six  hours  add  2i  drachms  tincture  of 
ambergris ;    then  filter  until   clear.     This   is 
greatly  improved  by  distilling. 

979.  Eau  de  Cologne— -Extra.— Put  1 
quart  95  per  cent,  alcohol  into  a  bottle ;  add  to 
it  9  drachms  oil  of  cedrat,  2  drachms  oil  of 
thyme,  6  drachms  each  oil  of  bergamot  and 
oil  of  lemon,  4   drachms  oil  of  Portugal,  2 
drachms  each  oil  of  neroli,  oil  of  vervain  and 

011  of  rosemary,  2£  drachms  oil  of  mint,  2 
pints  eau  de  melisse  and  24  drops  tincture  of 
musk ;  mix  thoroughly,  and  after  standing  for 

12  hours,  filter  till  clear. 

980.  Durockereau's  Cologne  Water. 
To  7  quarts  French  tasteless  alcohol,  add  11 
drachms  essence  of  Portugal,  13  drachms  es- 
sence of  bergamot,  1  ounce  essence  of  lemon, 
10  drachms  essence  of  neroli,  1  ounce  essence 


of  rosemary,  1  ounce  essence  of  lavender,  14 
drachms  rose  water,  13  drachms  jasmin  wa- 
ter, 15  drachms  orange-flower  water.  Mix; 
the  whole  together,  let  it  stand  24  hours,  and 
distill  over  a  water-bath. 

981.  Gouffe's  Eau  de  Cologne.    Take 
£  ounce  each  essences  of  lemon,  bergamot, 
and  citron;  \  ounce  essence  of  rosemary;  \ 
ounce  essence  of  neroli.    Infuse  for  8  days  in 

1  quart  95  per  cent,  alcohol.    Filter,  and  bottle 
for  use. 

982.  Farina's  Eau  de  Cologne.    Take 
of  angelica-root,    10    grains;     camphor,    15 
grains;  cassia-lignea,  cloves,  mace,  nutmegs, 
wormwood  tops,  of  each  20  grains ;  calamus 
aromaticus,  sage,  thyme,  of  each  \  drachm 
(Troy);  orange  flowers,  1  drachm  (Troy);  la- 
vender flowers,  li  drachms  (Troy) ;  rose  pet- 
als, violets  of  each,  3  drachms  (Troy) ;  balm- 
mint  and  spear-mint  of  each  1  ounce  (Troy) ; 

2  sliced  lemons ;  2  slic_ed  oranges,  and  5  gallons 
rectified  Cologne  spirits.    Bruise  or  slice  the 
solids,   and  digest  them  in  the  spirit,  with 
frequent  agitation,  for  2  or  3  days,  then  distill 
off  3  gallons.     To  this  add,  of  oil  of  berga- 
mot, essential  oil  of  jasmin,  1  fluid  ounce  each; 
oil  of  balm-mint,  oil  of  cedrat,  oil  of  lavender, 
oil  of  lemon,  1  fluid  drachm  each ;  pure  neroli 
and  oil  of  anthos-seed,  of  each    20  drops. 
Agitate  until  solution  is  complete,  and  the 
next  day,  if  necessary,  filter.    This  formula, 
many  years  since,  was  confidentially  given 
by  the  celebrated  original  Jean  Maria  Farina, 
who  lived  opposite  the  Jiilichs  Platz,  in  Co- 
logne, to  a  professional  gentleman,  now  de- 
ceased, with  a  solemn  assurance  that  it  was 
the  one  used  by  the  former  in  his  laboratory. 
After  keeping  the  secret  some  years,  this  gen- 
tleman disclosed  it.    It  seems  unnecessarily 
complicated.     Some  of  the  articles,  as  the 
herbs  wormwood  and  mint,  are  either  useless 
or  better  omitted.    The  version  given  above 
differs  from  the  original  simply  in  being  in- 
tended for  only  5  gallons  instead  of  twelve 
times  the  quantity.     Dr.  Cooley  says  he  per- 
sonally tried  it,  and  found  the  quab'ty  of  the 
product  splendid. 

983.  Parrish's  Best  Cologne  Water. 
Mix  together  2  fluid  ounces  oil  of  bergamot, 
2  fluid  drachms  oil  of  neroli,  £  fluid  ounce  oil 
of  jasmin,  2  fluid  drachms   oil  of   garden 
lavender,  1  minim  oil  of  cinnamon,  3  fluid 
ounces  benzoated  tincture,  i  fluid  ounce  oil 
of  musk,  1  gallon  deodorized  alcohol,  and  2 
pints  rose-water.    The  mixture  should  stand 
a  long  time  before  filtering  for  use. 

984.  Parrish's  Common  Cologne  Wa- 
ter.   A  much  cheaper  preparation  than  the 
foregoing  can  be  made  by  mixing  1£  fluid 
ounces  oil  of  lavender,  i  fluid  ounce  oil  of 
rosemary,   1   fluid  ounce  oil  of  lemon,  and 
20  drops  oil  of  cinnamon,  with  1  gallon  alco- 
hol. 

985.  Genuine  Cologne   Water.    The 
following  formula  was  published  by  one  of 
the  Farinas  in  the  journal  of  the  North  Ger- 
man Apothecaries'   Association.     Dissolve  2 
ounces  by  weight  purified  benzoin,  4  ounces 
oil  of  lavender,  and  2  ounces  oil  of  rosemary, 
in  9  gallons  95  per  cent,  fine  Cologne*  spirits. 
To  this  solution  add  successively,  10$  ounces 
each  of  the  oils  of  neroli,  neroli  petit-grain, 
and  lemon ;  20£  ounces  each  of  the  oils  of 
sweet  orange  peel,  limes,  and  bergamot ;  to- 


112 


PERFUMED    SPIRITS. 


getter  with  tincture  of  rose-geranium  flowers, 
sufficient  to  suit  the  taste.  Macerate  for 
some  weeks,  then  fill  into  flasks. 

986.  Fine   Cologne  Water.    Take   of 
pure  95  percent.  Cologne  spirits,  6 gallons;  oil 
of  neroli,  4  ounces;  oil  of  rosemary,  2  ounces; 
oil  of  orange,  5  ounces ;  oil  of  citron,  5  ounces; 
oil  of  bergamot,  2  ounces ;  mix  with  agita- 
tion ;  then  allow  it  to  stand  for  a  few  days 
perfectly  quiet  before  bottling. 

987.  Cologne  Water,  Second  Quality. 
Pure  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  6  gallons;  oil  of 
neroli,  2i  ounces ;  oil  of  rosemary,  2  ounces ; 
oil  of  orange  peel,  4  ounces ;  oil  of  lemon,  4 
ounces ;  oil  of  bergamot,  4  ounces.     Treat  in 
the  same  way  as  the  last. 

988.  Eau  des  Cannes;   Eau  de  Me- 
lisse ;  Compound  Spirit  of  Balm.     Fresh 
flowering  balm,  24  ounces ;   yellow  rind  of 
lemon,  cut  fine,  4  ounces ;  cinnamon,  cloves, 
and    nutmeg    (bruised),   of  each  2  ounces ; 
coriander  seed  (bruised).  1  ounce;  dried  an- 
gelica root,  1  ounce ;  rectified  spirit,  1  gallon. 
Macerate  for  4  days,  and  distill  in  a  water- 
bath. 

989.  Fine  Lavender  Water ;  or  Eau  de 
Lavande.    Take  2  ounces  (avoirdupois)  finest 
oil  of  lavender  (Mitcham),  essence  of  musk 
(finest),  1  Imperial  fluid  ounce;  essence  of 
ambergris  ( finest ),  and  oil  of  bergamot  ( recent), 
of  each  ^  ounce ;  rectified  spirit  (90  per  cent., 
scentless),  |  gallon;  mix  by  agitation.    Very 
fine  without  distillation ;  but  better  for  it,  in 
which  case  the  essences  should  be  added  to  the 
distillate.    Delightfully  and  powerfully  fra- 
grant.   (Cooley.) 

990.  Smith's       Lavender     Water. 
Take  i  ounce  (avoirdupois)  oil  of  lavender 
(Mitcham) ;   essence  of  ambergris,  J  ounce ; 
eau  de  Cologne  (finest),  J  Imperial  pint;  rec- 
tified spirit,  $  pint ;  mix  by  agitation.    Yery 
fragrant,  and  much  esteemed.    The  ordinary 
lavender  water  is  usually  made  with  spirit  at 
proof,  or  even  much  weaker ;   hence  its  in- 
ferior quality  to  that  of  the  higher  class  of 
perfumers.      1  ounce  of  true  English  oil  of 
lavender  is  all  that  will  perfectly  combine 
with  1  gallon  of  proof  spirit  (or  1  drachm  to 
the  pint) ;   any  excess  rendering  it  milky  or 
cloudy. 

991.  Common  Lavender  Water.    En- 
glish oil  of  lavender,  3  ounces ;  rectified  spirit 
(90  per  cent.),  1  gallon.    Dissolve.     Cordial, 
and  fragrant. 

992.  Eau  de  Bouquet.    Take  of  spirit 
of  rosemary,  essence  01  violets,  and  orange- 
flower  water,  of  each  1  Imperial  fluid  ounce ; 
oil  of  bergamot  and  oil  of  jasmin,  of  each  1 
fluid  drachm ;  oil  of  lavender  and  oil  of  ver- 
bena, of  each  i  fluid  drachm ;  eau  de  rose,  i 
pint;  rectified  spirit,  li  pints;  mix.    A  de- 
lightful   perfume.      Yarious    other    similar 
formulae  are  employed. 

993.  Eau  de  Marechale.    Take  'of  es- 
sence of  violets,  1  Imperial  fluid  ounce ;  oil  ol 
bergamot  and  oil  of  cloves,  of  each  J  ounce 
(avoirdupois);   orange-flower  water,  i  pint; 
rectified  spirit,  1  pint;  mix.    An  agreeable 
and  favorite  perfume. 

994*  Eau  d'Ambre  Royale ;  Eau 
Royale.  Take  of  essence  of  ambergris  am 
essence  of  musk,  of  each  1  Imperial  fluid 
drachm ;  eau  d'Ambrette  and  eau  de  fleurs 
d'oranges,  of  each  2i  fluid  ounces ;  rectified 


spirit,  5  fluid  ounces ;  mix.    Yery  agreeable 
and  durable. 

995.  Eau    d'Ambrette ;    or    Esprit 
d'Ambrette.     Take  1  pound  (avoirdupois) 
grains  d'Ambrette  (musk-mallow  seed,  bruis- 
d);  rectified  spirit,  1  Imperial  quart;  water,  f 
>int ;  digest  for  7  or  8  days,  and  distill  off  I 
juart.    Yery  fine.    Commonly  sold  as  "Es- 
sence d'Ambrette."    "When  used  alone,  a  very 

ew  drops  of  essence  of  ambergris  and  esprit 
de  rose  improve  it. 

996.  Fine  Hungary  Water.     Take  2 
pounds  (avoirdupois)  rosemary-tops  (in  blos- 
som); i pound  sage  (fresh);  rectified  spirit,  3 
[mperial  quarts ;  water,  1  quart ;  digest  for  10 
days,  throw  the  whole  into  a  still,  add  li 
jounds  common  salt,  and  draw  over  6  pints. 
To  the  distillate  add  1  ounce  bruised  Jamaica 
ginger,  digest  a  few  days,  and  either  decant 
>r  filter.    The  old  plan  of  adding  the  ginger 
jefore  distillation  is  wrong,  as  the  aromatic 
principle  of  the  root  does  not  pass  over  with 
;he  vapor  of  alcohol. 

997.  Common     Hungary     Water. 
Take  li  to  2  Imperial  fluid  drachms  pure 
oil  of  rosemary;  oil  of  lavender  (English),  i 
fluid  drachm;    orange-flower  water  i  pint; 
rectified  spirits,  li  pints;  mix.    No.  996  is 
the   genuine  formula.      This  is  the  perfume 
usually  sold  by  the  perfumers.     Spirit  of  rose- 
mary is  now  commonly  sold  for  it  by  the 
druggists. 

998.  Simple  Perfumed  Spirits— Es- 
prits.     The  simple  perfumed  spirits  (esprits) 
and  odoriferous  tinctures  are  principally  used 
in  making  compound  eaux,  esprits,  <BC.    Their 
common  strength,  per  pint,  is,  of— 

Attar  of  roses,  i  fluid  drachm ;  neroli,  es- 
sence de  petit  grain,  of  each  li  to  2  fluid 
drachms;  essential  oils  (ordinary),  i  fluid 
ounce;  concentrated  essences,  2  to  2.i  fluid 
ounces.  The  spirit  of  wine  employed  for 
them  should  in  no  case  be  weaker  than  75 
per  cent.,  and  for  spirit  of  roses  (esprit  de 
rose),  it  should  be,  at  the  least,  90,  or  else 
little  of  the  attar  will  be  dissolved.  These 
proportions  may  be  adopted  for  all  the  simple 
spirits  of  the  perfumer  for  which  separate 
formulae  are  not  given  in  this  work,  and  even 
in  place  of  those  so  given,  at  the  convenience 
of  the  operator,  when  intended  for  the  use 
just  mentioned.  When  flowers,  leaves,  seeds, 
&e.,  are  employed,  the  proportions  may  be  li 
to  3,  or  even  5  pounds  to  the  gallon  of  the 
distillate  or  product,  according  to  their 
nature ;  and,  with  certain  flowers,  the  pro- 
cess must  be  repeated  with  fresh  flowers,  as 
often  as  necessary.  To  mature  and  bring  out 
the  full  fragrance  of  distilled  spirits,  they 
should  be  kept  for  some  time  in  a  cellar,  or 
other  cool  situation,  previously  to  being  used 
or  offered  for  sale.  The  same  applies,  though 
in  a  less  degree,  to  perfumed  spirits  prepared 
by  the  other  methods. 

999.  Esprit  de  Bergamotte.  Take  5 
Imperial  fluid  drachms  oil  of  bergamot  (finest, 
recent) ;  oil  of  rose-geranium  and  oil  of  ver- 
bena, each  i  fluid  drachm ;  essence  of  am- 
bergris, 2  fluid  drachms ;  essence  of  musk,  J 
fluid  drachm;  rectified  spirit,  1  pint;  mix. 
Very  fine.  For  a  second  quality  (usually 
called  best),  1  quart  of  spirit  (70  per  cent. )  is 
used ;  for  a  third  quality,  3  to  4  pints  at 
proof. 


PERFUMED    SPIRITS. 


113 


1000.  Eau  de  Lavande  de  Millefleurs. 
Take  1  quart  eau  de  lavande ;  oil  of  cloves, 
1|  fluid  drachms ;  oil  of  cassia  and  essence  of 
ambergris,  each  4  fluid  drachm ;  mix. 

1001.  Esprit  de  Rose.     The  compound 
perfume  sold  under  this  name  is  commonly 
made  as  follows :  Take  1  Imperial  pint  finest 
simple  esprit  de  rose  (see  No.  998) ;    essence 
of  ambergris  and  oil  of  rose -geranium,  each  i 
fluid  drachm ;  mix.     Delicately  fragrant. 

1002.  Esprit  de  Bouquet.     Take  4  Im- 
perial fluid  drachms  oil   of  lavender;  oil  of 
bergamot  and  oil  of  cloves,   each  li  fluid 
drachms ;  essence  of  musk  and  oil  of  verbena, 
each  i  fluid  drachm ;    attar  of  roses,  5  to  6 
drops ;  and  rectified  spirit,  1  pint ;  mix,  and 
agitate  frequently  for  a  day  or  two.    A  very 
powerful  and  agreeable  scent. 

1003.  Eaud'Heliotrope.    Take  essence 
of  ambergris,  coarsely  powdered,  •£  Imperial 
fluid  drachm;  vanilla,  •£  ounce  avoirdupois ;  or- 
ange-flower water,  i  pint ;  rectified  spirit,  1 
quart ;  digest  for  a  week,  and  then  decant  or 
filter.    5  or  6  drops  each  of  oil  of  bitter  al- 
monds and  cassia  are  sometimes  added.    TJsed 
both  as  a  cosmetic  and  perfume. 

1004.  Esprit    de    Jasmin    Odorant. 
Take  extrait  de  jasmin,  and  rectified  spirit, 
each  $  Imperial  pint;  essence  of  ambergris,  \ 
fluid  drachm;  neroli  (finest),  8  or  10  drops; 
mix.    A  delicate  and  favorite  foreign  scent. 

1005.  Millefleur    Water.     Very    pure 
rectified  spirit,  9  pints ;  balsam  of  Peru  (gen- 
uine) and  essence  of  cloves,  each  1  ounce ; 

"essences  of  bergarnot  and  musk,  each  2  ounces ; 
essences  of  neroli  and  thyme,  each  J  ounce ; 
eau  de  fleurs  d' oranges,  1  quart;  mix  well. 
Very  fine. 

1006.  Honey  Water  (Eau  de  Miel). 
Rectified   spirit,   8  pints   (Imperial) ;    oil  of 
cloves,  oil  of  lavender,  oil  of  bergamot,  of 
each  4  ounce  avoirdupois ;  musk,  15  grains ; 
yellow- sanders  shavings,  4  ounces ;  digest  for 
8  days,  and  add  2  pints  each  of  orange-flower 
and  rose  waters. 

1007.  Honey  Water.     (With  Honey.) 
White  honey,  8  ounces  avoirdupois ;  coriander 
seed,  8  ounces;  fresh  lemon-peel,  1  ounce; 
cloves,   f    ounce;    nutmeg,   benzoin,   styrax 
calamita,  of  each  1  ounce;  rose  and  orange- 
flower  water,   of   each  4    ounces ;    rectified 
spirit,  3  Imperial  pints ;  digest  for  a  few  days, 
and    filter.     Some   receipts  add   3   drachms 
of  vanilla,  and  direct  only  i  ounce  of  nutmeg, 
storax,  and  benzoin. 

1008.  Rose  Water.     The  ordinary  best 
rose-water  of  the  stores,  particularly  of  the 
wholesale  druggists  who  deal  largely  in  the 
article,  is  generally  made  as  follows: — Dissolve 
attar  of  roses,  6  drachms  avoirdupois,  in  strong- 
est rectified  spirit  (hot),  1  Imperial  pint;  throw 
the  solution  into  a  12-gallon  carboy,  and  add 
10  gallons  pure  distilled  water,  at  180°  to  185° 
Fahr.;    at  once    cork    the    carboy  (at    first 
loosely),  and  agitate  the  whole  briskly  (at  first 
cautiously),  until  quite  cold.     The  product  is 
really  superior  to  much  of  the  trash  carelessly 
distilled  from  a  scanty  quantity  of  rose-leaves, 
and  sold  as  rose  water.     (See  Nos.  1071  and 
1079). 

1009.  Orange-Flower   Water.      The 
genuine  imported  article  is  one  of  the  most 
delightfully  fragrant  of  all  the  odoriferous 'dis- 
tilled waters.    An  imitation  may  be  made  as 


follows : — Take  of  orange-flowers,  7  pounds 
avoirdupois ;  fresh  thin  yellow-peel  of  bitter 
oranges,  6  to  8  ounces ;  water,  2  Imp'erial  gal- 
lons; macerate  24  hours,  and  then  distill  1 
gallon. 

1010.  Orange-Flower  Water.      An- 
other method  is  as  follows. — Orange-flowers, 
12  pounds  avoirdupois;   water,  36  pounds; 
distill  24    pounds  for  double    orange-flower 
water;   this,  with  an  equal  quantity  of  dis- 
tilled water,  forms  the  single.    The  flowers 
should  not  be  put  into  the  still  till  the  water 
nearly  boils. 

1011.  Florida  Water.     Dissolve  in  i 
gallon  90  per  cent,  alcohol,  1  ounce  each  oil  of 
lavender,  oil  of  bergamot,  and  oil  of  lemon ; 
and  of  oil  of  cloves  and  cinnamon  1  drachm 
each ;  add  1  gallon  water,  and  filter. 

1012.  Florida  Water.     Oil  of  berga- 
mot, 3  ounces ;  oil  of  cinnamon,  4  drachms ; 
tincture  of  benzoin,  2  ounces ;  75  per  cent,  al- 
cohol, 1  gallon.    Mix  and  filter.     (See  No. 
976.) 

1013.  Fine   Florida  Water.    Take  2 
drachms  each  of  the  oils  of  lavender,  berga- 
mot, and  lemon ;  1  drachm  each  of  tincture 
of  turmeric  and  oil  of  neroli ;  30  drops  oil  of 
balm  and  10  drops  oil  of  rose ;  mix  the  above 
with  2  pints  deodorized  alcohol.    (See  No. 
976.) 

1014.  Tincture  of  Coriander.    Pow- 
der coarsely  4  ounces  coriander  seed,  and 
macerate  for  15  days  in  1  pint  95°  alcohol ; 
strain  and  filter. 

1015.  Tincture  of  Nutmegs.    Bruise 
well  6  ounces  nutmegs  in  li  pints  95°  alco- 
hol ;  let  it  remain  for  a  couple  of  weeks,  stir- 
ring occasionally ;  then  press  through  a  coarse 
cloth,  and  filter.    Tincture  of  ginger,  mace, 
and  other  spices  are  prepared  by  the  same 
method. 

1016.  Tincture  of  Storax.     Macerate 
5  ounces  storax  in  3  pints  95°  alcohol,  until 
dissolved,  then  filter. 

1017.  Alcoliolate  of  Roses.    Macerate 
2  pounds  fresh  roses  in  2  quarts  alcohol  of  95° 
and  1  pint  water  for  12  hours ;  then  distill  by 
means  of  a  water-bath.    If  a  superior  article 
is  required,  the  alcoholate  thus  prepared  may 
be  used  to  macerate  2  pounds  more  roses,  and 
then  distilled  as  before. 

1018.  Tincture  of  Vanilla.     Steep  2 
ounces  vanilla,  cut  into  small  pieces,  in  1  pint 
alcohol,  for  about  a  month ;   stir  frequently, 
and  filter. 

1019.  Tincture  of  Benzoin.     In   2£ 
quarts  alcohol  of  95°,   macerate    8    ounces 
powdered  benzoin  until  dissolved,  then  filter 
it  and  bottle ;  cork  closely. 

1020.  Tincture  of  Balsam  of  Peru. 
Macerate  8  ounces  liquid  balsam  of  Peru  in  3 
pints  95°  alcohol ;  when  dissolved,  filter. 

1021.  Tincture  of  Grain  of  Paradise. 
Macerate  4  ounces  coarsely  powdered  grain 
of  paradise  for  15  days  in  1  pint  alcohol  of 
95°,  then  press  through  a  cloth  and  filter. 

1022.  Tincture  of  Balsam  of  Tolu. 
Dissolve  5  ounces  balsam  of  Tolu  in  3  pints 
alcohol,  and  filter. 

1023.  Tincture  of  Cardamoms.   Bruise 
4  ounces  cardamoms,  and  macerate  2  weeks 
in  alcohol  of  95° ;  press  through  a  cloth  and 
filter. 

1024.  Tincture  of  Ambergris.    Pow- 


114: 


FLAVORING    EXTRACTS. 


der  thoroughly  1  ounce  ambergris  and  h 
ounce  sugar  in  a  warm  mortar ;  then  dissolve 
J  ounce  carbonate  of  potash  in  14  ounces  alco- 
holate  of  roses,  and  add  to  it  85  ounces  tinc- 
ture of  musk  (see  No.  1025);  macerate  the 
whole  for  about  1  month,  and  filter. 

1025.  Tincture   of    Musk.      Rub    i 
'ounce  musk  in  a  warm  mortar  with  a  little 

sugar ;  macerate  for  a  month  in  7  ounces 
alcohol  containing  1  ounce  each  tincture  of 
ambergris  and  tincture  of  vanilla.  Filter 
thoroughlj"  and  then  add  a  few  drops  of  attar 
of  roses. 

1026.  Economical    Perfumes.     The 
cheap  perfumes  which  are  offered  for  sale  in 
email  fancy  bottles,  are  of  the  simplest  kind, 
and  from  the  nature  of  the  case,  made  of  the 
least  expensive  materials.    The  following  are 
the  leading  mixtures,  which  are  sold  under 
the  names  deemed  the  most  likely  to  prove 
attractive : 

Mix  1  ounce  essence  of  bergamot,  or  attar 
of  santal,  with  1  pint  spirits  of  wine. 

Mix  k  ounce  each  of  the  attars  of  lavender 
and  bergamot,  and  1  drachm  attar  of  cloves, 
with  1  pint  spirit  of  wine. 

Mix  i  ounce  attar  of  lemon  grass,  and  \ 
ounce  essence  of  lemons,  with  1  pint  spirit  of 
wine. 

Mix  J  ounce  attar  of  petit- grain,  and  ^  ounce 
attar  of  orange  peel,  with  1  pint  spirits  of 
wine. 

These  mixtures  are  filtered  through  blotting 
paper  with  the  addition  of  a  little  magnesia 
to  make  them  bright.  It  would  be  well  if  all 
the  cheap  perfumes  put  up  in  attractive  bot- 
tles were  as  good  as  these  mixtures.  A  large 
proportion  of  them  are  far  inferior,  and  fre- 
quently little  more  than  weak  perfumed  wa- 
ters. 

1027.  To  Make  Imitation  Bay;  Bum. 
The  genuine  bay  rum  is  made  by  digesting 
the  leaves  of  the .  Bay  plant   (an  aromatic 
plant  which  grows  in  the  West  Indies),  in 
rum,  and  subsequent  distillation.    The  imita- 
tion is  prepared  from  the  essential  oil  obtained 
from  the  Bay  plant.    Mix  1  ounce  of  oil  of 
Bay  (or  f  ounce  oil  of  Bay,  and  J  ounce  of 
either  oil  of  pimento,  allspice,  or  cloves),  with 
4  gallons  95  per  cent,    alcohol;    then    add 
gradually  4  gallons  of  water,  shaking    the 
mixture  constantly.     If  the  mixture  should 
become  milky,  the  addition  of  a  little  alcohol 
will  make  it  clear.    Probably  the  best  imita- 
tion is  as  follows :    10  fluid  drachms  oil  of 
Bay,   1  fluid  drachm  oil  of  pimento,  2  fluid 
ounces  acetic  ether,  3  gallons  alcohol,  and  2i 
gallons  water.    Mix,  and  after  2  weeks'  re- 
pose, filter. 

1028.  "West  India  Bay  Bum.    Take 
2  pounds  of  leaves  of  the  myrtus  acris,  k 
pound  cardamoms,  2  ounces  cassia,  1£  ounces 
cloves,  and  9  quarts  rum.     Distill  1J  gallons. 
Bay  rum  may  be  colored  with  tincture  of 
saffron,  or  with  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  cara- 
mel (see  No.  694)  and  tincture  of  turmeric. 

1029.  Cheap  Bay  Bum.    Saturate  a  £ 
pound  block  of  carbonate  of  magnesia  with 
oil  of  Bay ;   pulverize  the  magnesia,  place  it 
in  a  filter,  and  pour  water  through  it  until 
the  desired  quantity  is  obtained,  then  add  al- 
cohol.   The  quantity  of  water  and  of  alcohol 
employed  depends  on  the  desired  strength 
and  quality  of  the  Bay  rum. 


o  _ 

J-  tracts.  The  following  excellent 
receipts,  taken  from  the  "American  Journal 
of  Pharmacy,"  are  by  Prof.  W.  Procter,  Jr. 

1031.  Lemon   Extract.       Expose    4 
ounces  of  the  exterior  rind  of  lemons  in  the 
air  until  partially  dry;    then    bruise    in    a 
wedgewood  mortar ;  add  to  it  2  quarts  dedor- 
ized  alcohol  of  95°,  and  agitate  until  the  color 
is  extracted  ;  then  add  6  ounces  recent  oil  of 
lemon.    If  it  does  not  become  clear  imme- 
diately, let  it  stand  for  a  day  or  two,  agitating 
occasionally.     Then  filter. 

1032.  Orange   Extract.      Follow   the 
same  method  as  for  lemon  extract,  using  4 
ounces  exterior  rind  of  oranges,  1   quart  of 
deodorized  alcohol  of  95°,  and  2  ounces  recent 
oil  of  orange. 

1033.  Extract   of   Bitter   Almonds. 
Mix  together  4  ounces  oil  of  bitter  almonds, 

1  ounce  tincture  of  turmeric,  and  1  quart  95° 
alcohol. 

1034.  To  Neutralize  the  Poison   in 
Extract  of  Bitter  Almonds.     As  this  ex- 
tract is  poisonous  in  a  quantity,  it  is  better  to 
deprive  it  of  its  hydrocyanic  acid  as  follows : — 
Dissolve  2  ounces  sulphate  of  iron  in  a  pint 
of  water ;   in  another  pint  of  water  slake  1 
ounce  lime  recently  burned ;   mix  them  to- 
gether, and  shake  the  mixture  with  4  ounces 
oil  of  bitter  almonds.    Distill  in  a  glass  retort 
until  the  whole  of  the  oil  has  passed  over ; 
and  after  allowing  the  oil  time  to  separate 
from  the  water,  remove  it  for  use.  -» 

1035.  Extract    of    Bose.     Bruise    2 
ounces  of  hundred -leaved  rose-leaves  ;  make 
an  extract  from  them  by  macerating  in  1 
quart  deodorized  alcohol ;  press  the  quart  of 
alcohol  out,  and  add  to  it  1  drachm  oil  of  rose, 
and  filter  through  paper.     If  there  are  no  red 
rose  leaves,  a  little  tincture  of  cochineal  will 
give  a  pale  rose  tint. 

1036.  Extract  of  Cinnamon.    Dissolve 

2  drachms  oil  of  cinnamon  in  1  pint  deodor- 
ized alcohol ;  add  gradually  1  pint  of  water, 
and  then  stir  in  by  degrees  4  ounces  powdered 
Ceylon  cinnamon ;  agitate  several  hours,  and 
filter  through  paper. 

1037.  Extract  of  Nutmegs.    Mix   2 
drachms  oil  of  nutmegs  with  1  ounce  pow- 
dered mace ;  macerate  for  12  hours  in  1  quart 
deodorized  alcohol,  and  filter. 

1038.  Extract   of    Ginger.     Pack    4 
ounces    powdered    ginger    in    a    percolator, 
moisten  it  with  a  little  alcohol,  then  pour  on 
alcohol  until  1£  pints  of  tincture  have  passed 
through.     Mix  this  with  8  ounces  syrup. 

1039.  Extract  of  Black  Pepper.    This 
is  prepared    from    powdered  pepper  in   the 
same  manner  as  the  extract  of  ginger,  pouring 
on  alcohol  until  a  quart  has  passed  through, 
and  omitting  the  syrup. 

1040.  Extract  of  Capsicum.     Prepared 
from  powdered  capsicum,  m  the  same  manner 
as  black  pepper. 

1041.  Extract  of  Coriander.    Mix  4 
ounces  powdered  coriander  with  1  drachm  oil 
of  coriander;  add  the  mixture  to  1£  pints  al- 
cohol of  95°,  and  ^  pint  water ;  macerate  for 
24  hours,  decant  the  liquid ;  put  the  matter 
that  has  settled  into  a  percolator,  and  pour  on 
it  the  decanted  liquid,  adding  alcohol  until  a 
quart  has  ran  through. 


ARTIFICIAL    FRUIT   ESSENCES. 


115 


1042.  Extract  of  Vanilla.     Cut  1  ounce 
vanilla  into  small  pieces,  and  triturate  with  2 
ounces  sugar  to  a  coarse  powder ;  put  it  into 
a  percolator,  pour  on  it  diluted  alcohol  until 
1  pint  has  run  through — then  mix  with  1  pint 
syrup. 

1043.  Extract   of  Celery.      Bruise  2 
ounces  celery  seeds,  and  put  into  a  percola- 
tor;  pour  on  1  pint  deodorized  alcohol,  then 
pour  on  water  till  a  pint  of  extract  has  passed 
through ;  triturate  with  1  drachm  carbonate 
of  magnesia,  and  filter. 

1044.  Extract  of   Soup-herbs.      Put 
into  a  percolator  1  ounce  each  of  thyme, 
sweet  marjoram,   sweet  basil,   and  summer 
savory,  and  1  drachm  celery  seeds.     Pour  on 
them  sufficient  diluted  alcohol  to  make  1  pint 
of  extract. 


Artificial  Fruit  Essences. 

y-\.  These  are  composed  chiefly  of  com- 

Souud  ethers,  which  possess  the  odor  and 
avor  of  certain  fruits.  In  some  of  the  fol- 
lowing receipts,  where  tartaric,  oxalic,  suc- 
cinic  or  benzoic  acid  enters  into  the  composi- 
tion of  an  essence,  it  must  be  understood  that 
these  acids  are  not  to  be  used  in  their  pure 
state,  but  in  the  form  of  saturated  solutions 
(see  No.  27)  in  cold  alcohol.  Glycerine  will 
be  found  as  an  ingredient  in  nearly  all  these 
artificial  essences;  it  seems  to  blend  and  har- 
monize the  different  odors. 

1046.  Peach  Essence.     This  is  a  mix- 
ture of  5  parts  glycerine,  2  parts  aldehyde,  5 
parts  acetate  of  ethyl,  5  parts  formiate  of 
ethyl,  5  parts  butyrate  of  ethyl,  5  parts  vale- 
rianate  of  ethyl,  5  parts  oenanthylate  of  ethyl, 
1  part  sebacic  ether,  and  2  parts  salicylate  of 
methyl. 

1047.  Apricot  Essence.    To   4   parts 
glycerine  add  1    part  chloroform,   10    parts 
butyrate  of  ethyl,  5  parts  valerianate  of  ethyl, 
1  part  oenanthylate  of  ethyl,  2  parts  salicylate 
of  methyl,  1  part  butyrate  of  amyl,  and  1 
part  saturated  solution  of  oxalic  acid  in  alco- 
hol.    (See  No.  1045.) 

1048.  Plum  Essence.     To  8  parts  gly- 
cerine, add  5  parts  of  aldehyde,  5  parts  acet- 
ate of  ethyl,  1  part  formiate  of  ethyl,  2  parts 
butyrate  of  ethyl,  and  4  parts  oenanthylate  of 
ethyl. 

1049.  Cherry  Essence.     Take  3  parts 

flyceriue,  5  parts  acetate  of  ethyl,  5  parts 
enzoate  of  ethyl,  1  part  oeuanthylate  of  ethyl, 
and  1  part  saturated  solution  (see  No.  1045)  of 
benzoic  acid  in  alcohol. 

1050.  Black  Cherry  Essence.    Mix  10 
parts  acetate  of  ethyl  with  5  parts  benzoate 
of  ethyl,  2  parts  cenanthylate  of  ethyl,  1  part 
saturated  solution  of  oxalic  acid,  and  2  parts 
solution  of  benzoic  acid.     (See  No.  1045.) 

1051.  Lemon  Essence.     To  5  parts  gly- 
cerine, 1   part   chloroform  and   1   part  nitric 
ether,  add  2  parts  aldehyde,  10  parts  acetate 
of  ethyl,    10  parts  valerianate  of  amyl,   10 
parts  solution  of  tartaric  acid,  and  1  part  sat- 
urated  solution  of  succinic  acid.    (See  No. 
1045  ) 

1052.  Pear  Essence.     To  10  parts  gly- 
cerine   add  5  parts  acetate  of  ethyl  and  10 
parts  acetate  of  amyl. 

1053.  Orange  Essence.    With  10  parts 


glycerine,  mix  2  parts  chloroform,  2  parts  alde- 
hyde, 5  parts  acetate  of  ethyl,  1  part  each  of 
formiate,  butyrate  and  benzoate  of  ethyl,  1 
part  salicylate  of  methyl,  10  parts  acetate  of 
amyl,  10  parts  essence  of  orange,  and  1  part 
saturated  solution  of  tartaric  acid.  (See  No. 
1045.) 

1054.  Apple  Essence.     To  4  parts  gly- 
cerine, 1  part  chloroform,  and  1  part  of  nitric 
ether,  add  2  parts  aldehyde,  1  part  acetate  of 
ethyl,  10  parts  valerianate  of  amyl,  and  1 
part  saturated  solution  of  oxalic  acid.     (See 
No.  1045.) 

1055.  Grape  Essence.    To  10  parts  gly- 
cerine and   2  parts  chloroform,  add  2  parts 
aldehyde,  2  parts  formiate  and  10  parts  cenan- 
thylate  of  ethyl,  1  part  salicylate  of  methyl, 
and  5  parts  tartaric  and  3  parts  succinic  acids 
in  saturated  solution.     (See  No.  1045.) 

1056.  Gooseberry  Essence.    To  1  part 
aldehyde  add  5  parts  acetate,  1  part  benzoate 
and  1  part  cenanthylate  of  ethyl,  and  5  parts 
saturated  solution  of  tartaric,  and  1  part  each 
of  the  same  of  succinic  and  benzoic  acids. 
(See  No.  1045.) 

1057.  Raspberry  Essence.    To  4  parts 
glycerine  and  1  part  nitric  ether,  add  1  part 
aldehyde,  5  parts  acetate  of  ethyl,  and  1  part 
each  of  formiate,  butyrate,  benzoate  and  oenan- 
thylate of  ethyl,  1  part  sebacic  ether,  1  part 
salicylate  of  methyl,  1  part  each  acetate  and 
butyrate  of  amyl,  5  parts  tartaric  and  1  part 
succinic  acid  in  saturated  solution.     (See  No. 
1045.) 

1058.  Strawberry   Essence.      To   2 
parts  glycerine  and  1  part  nitric  ether  add  5 
parts  acetate,  1  part  formiate  and  5  parts  buty- 
rate of  ethyl,  1  part  salicylate  of  methyl,  and 
3  parts  acetate  and  2  parts  butyrate  of  amyl. 

1059.  Melon    Essence.    Take  3  parts 
glycerine,  2  parts  aldehyde,  1  part  formiate,  4 
parts  butyrate    and    5  parts  valerianate    of 
ethyl,  and  10  parts  sebacic  ether. 

1060.  Pineapple  Essence.    To  3  parts 
glycerine  and  1  part  chloroform  add  1  part 
aldehyde,  5  parts  butyrate  of  ethyl  and  10 
parts  butyrate  of  amyl. 


T^xtraits;    Extracts,      in 

.  I  i  French  perfumery  these  are,  appro- 
priately, strong  spirituous  solutions,  either 
simple  or  compound,  of  the  essential  oils  and 
odorous  principles  of  plants  and  other  sub- 
stances, obtained  by  infusion  or  digestion,  as 
distinguished  from  those  that  are  obtained  by 
distillation  and  direct  solution.  Under  the 
term,  however,  are  often  classed  many  per- 
fumes prepared  with  rectified  spirit  by  the 
latter  methods,  and  which  are  highly  charged 
with  the  fragrant  matter,  or  matters,  which 
they  represent.  The  preparation  of  most  of 
the  extraits  is  simple  enough,  the  chief  care 
necessary  being  that  the  spirit  be  absolutely 
scentless  and  of  sufficient  strength,  and  that 
the  oils  and  other  materials  be  recent  and 
perfectly  pure. 

1062.  Extrait  de  B-ondeletia.  Take 
12  drachms  avoirdupois  oil  of  lavender  (Mitch- 
am)  ;  oil  of  cloves,  5  drachms ;  oil  of  berga- 
mot,  4  drachms;  oil  of  verbena  (orneroli),  1 
drachm;  essence  of  ambergris  and  essence 


116 


PERFUMED    WATERS. 


of  musk,  of  each  J  Imperial  fluid  drachm; 
rectified  spirit  (90  per  cent.),  1  pint ;  mix.  A 
rich  and  highly  esteemed  perfume. 

1063.  Extrait  de  Millefleurs.    Take  4 
grains  finest  grain  musk ;  finest  ambergris,  6 
grains ;  oil  of  lemon,  6  drachms ;  oil  of  laven- 
der   (English),    and    oil    of  cloves,   each  4 
drachms ;  liquid  storax  (genuine),  1  drachm ; 
oil  of  verbena,  oil  of  pimento  and  neroli,  of 
each  12  drops  (minims);    rectified  spirit,  1 
Imperial  pint ;    macerate  in  a  warm  room, 
with  frequent  agitation,  for  2  or  3  weeks. 
Yery  fine.    The  omission  of  the  storax  ren- 
ders it  paler,  and  thus  preferable  to  some  per- 
sons. 

1064.  Jockey  Club  Bouquet.    Mix  1 
pint  extract  of  rose,  1  pint  extract  of  tuberose, 
\  pint  extract  of  cassia,  4  ounces  extract  of 
jasmin,  and  3  ounces  tincture  of  civet.    Filter 
the  mixture. 

1065.  Bouquet  de  Millefleurs.     Mix 

1  pint  extract  ol  rose ;  i  pint  each  of  the  ex- 
tracts   of  tuberose,    jasmin,    orange-flower, 
cassia,  and  violet ;  4  ounces  essence  of  cedar, 

2  ounces  each  of  the  tinctures  of  vanilla,  am- 
bergris, and  musk ;    i  pint  essence  of  rose,  1 
ounce  attar  of  bergamot,  and  10  drops  each 
of  the  attars  of  almonds,  neroli,  and  cloves. 
Let  the  mixture  stand  for  a  week,  and  then 
filter. 

1066.  Bouquet  de  Rondeletia.     Mix 
2  ounces  attar  of  lavender,  1  ounce  attar  of 
cloves,  1  ounce  attar  of  bergamot,  3  drachms 
attar  of  roses,  4  ounces  each  of  the  tinctures 
of  musk,  vanilla,  and  ambergris,  with  1  gallon 
deodorized  alcohol.    After  a  month's  repose, 
filter. 

1067.  Imitation  Lily  of  the  Valley. 
This  much  admired  perfume  is  made  by  mix- 
ing together  i  pint  extract  of  tuberose,    1 
ounce  extract  ol  jasmin,  2  ounces  extract  of 
orange-flower,  3  ounces  extract  of  vanilla,  i 
pint  extract  of  cassia,  J  pint  extract  of  rose, 
and  3  drops  attar  of   almonds.    Keep  this 
mixture  for  a  month  and  then  use. 

1068.  Imitation  Essence  of  Myrtle. 
Mix  together  and  allow  to  stand  for  2  weeks, 
i  pint  extract  of  vanilla,  1  pint  extract  of 
roses,  i  pint  extract  of  orange-flower,  £  pint 
extract  of  tuberose,  and  2  ounces  extract  of 
jasmin. 

1069.  Extract  of  Patchouli.    Mix  1J 
ounces  attar  of  patchouli,  and  i  ounce  attar 
of  rose,  with  1  gallon  rectified  spirits. 


Aromatic,  Odoriferous,  or 
-"-  Perfumed  "Waters,  &c. 

These  are  strictly  pure  water  charged  by  dis- 
tillation with  the  volatile,  aromatic,  and 
odorous  principles  of  plants ;  or  they  are  so- 
lutions of  these  principles,  chiefly  the  essen- 
tial oils,  in  distilled  water.  The  simple  fra- 
grant waters  of  the  perfumers  are  of  the 
former  kind ;  those  of  the  wholesale  druggists 
and  of  pharmacy  belong  to  either  class,  ac- 
cording to  the  mode  of  their  preparation. 

1071.  Proportions  of  Aromatics 
Submitted  to  Distillation  for  Making 
Perfumed  Waters.  The  vegetable  matter 
(bruised,  if  necessary),  in  the  quantity  ordered, 
is  to  be  put  into  the  still  along  with"  2  gallons 


of  pure  water,  but  only  1  gallon  drawn  over. 
In  this  way  the  finest  fragrant  distilled  waters 
may  be  produced  frcm  all  flowers,  and  other 
aromatic  vegetable  substances.  The  points 
requisite  to  be  attended  to  are,  that  the  flowers 
be  fresh,  gathered  after  the  sun  has  risen  and 
the  dew  exhaled,  and  that  sufficient  water  be 
used  to  prevent  the  flowers  being  burned,  but 
not  much  more  than  is  sufficient  for  this  pur- 
pose. The  quantities  usually  directed  are : 
Roses,  8  pounds  (avoirdupois) ;  water,  2  gallons 
(Imperial) ;  distill  1  gallon  for  single,  and  the 
same  water  with  8  pounds  of  fresh  roses  for 
double  rose  water.  The  usual  quantities  of 
aromatic  material  required  in  proportion  to 
the  amount  of  distilled  water  to  be  obtained, 
are  given  in  classified  form  in  the  Journal  de 
Pharmacie  as  follows :  Fresh  aromatic  plants, 
such  as  wormwood,  black-cherry,  scurvy- 
grass,  hyssop,  cherry-laurel,  lavender,  balm, 
mint,  peach-leaves,  roses,  and  sage,  require  1 
part  of  the  plant  for  each  part  distilled  pro- 
duct desired.  Fresh  and  dry  aromatics,  as 
bitter  almonds,  orange-flowers,  melilot,  horse- 
radish, elder,  and  tansy,  require  1  part  of  the 
plant  to  2  parts  of  distilled  product.  Dry  and 
very  aromatic  plants,  as  angelica,  green  anise, 
juniper  berries,  camomile,  canella,  cascarilla, 
fennel,  sassafras,  linden-flowers,  and  valerian, 
require  1  part  of  the  plant  to  each  4  parts  of 
distillate.  These  proportions  will  be  some 
guide  both  in  respect  of  the  distilled  waters 
referred  to,  and  others  not  included  in  the  list. 
In  general,  druggists  draw  over  2  gallons  of 
water  from  the  respective  quantities  of 
flowers,  herbs,  bark,  or  seeds,  ordered  in  the 

Eharmacopceias,  quantity  rather  than  quality 
eing  their  object.  Manufacturing  perfumers, 
on  the  contrary,  either  use  an  excess  of  flowers 
for  their  finer  odoriferous  waters,  or  they  pre- 
serve only  the  first  and  stronger  portion  of 
the  water  that  distills  over;  the  remainder 
being  separately  collected  and  used  for  a 
second  distillation  with  fresh  flowers.  In 
some  cases,  where  a  very  superior  quality  is 
desired,  they  re-distill  the  water  of  the  first 
distillation  and  preserve  only  the  first  f,  or 
even  only  the  first  half,  that  passes  over. 

1072.  Elder-flower  Water,  Acacia- 
flower  Water,  and  Bean-flower  Water, 
are  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  rose  water. 
(See  Nos.  1071  ami  1079.) 

1073.  Directions  for  Distilling  Per- 
fumed Waters.     The  following  directions 
are,    in     the    main,    those    given    by    the 
thoroughly    practical    chemist,    Mr.    Arnold 
J.  Cooley.    In  the  distillation  of  odoriferous 
waters,    manufacturing    perfumers    employ 
their   utmost  care,  in    order    to   produce  a 
highly  fragrant  article,  free  from  any  contam- 
ination that  can  vitiate  the  purity  of  their 
odor,  or  lessen  their  keeping  qualities.     The 
still  may  be  of  copper,  but  the  head  and  worm 
should  be  formed  of  solid  tin.     It  should  be 
furnished  with  a  high  and  narrow  neck  to 
prevent  the  liquor  in  it  spirting  over  into  the 
neck  and  condensing- worm.     A  still  furnished 
with  a  steam-jacket  is  the  most  convenient 
for  the  purpose,  as  the  heat  of  steam,  or  of  a 
salt-water  bath,  can  alone  be  safely  employed. 
The  common  plan  is  to  reject  the  first  2  or  3 
fluid  ounces  that  pass  over,  and  to  collect  the 
remainder  of  the  runnings  until  the  proper 
quantity  be  obtained.    The  whole  product  is 


PERFUMED    WATERS. 


117 


then  agitated  together,  and  stored,   loosel; 
covered,  in  a  cool  cellar  for  some  weeks,  o 
even  months,  in  order  that  it  may  lose  it 
herbaceous  odor  and  the  rawness  from  recen 
stillage.     It  is  a  common  practice  to  separate 
any  volatile  oil  floating  on  waters  after  dis 
tillation,  but  Mr.  Haselden,  of  England,  re 
commends  the  excess  of  oil  to  be  well  shaken 
with  the  water  and  the  whole  transferred  tc 
the  stock  vessel,  where  the  oil  will  separate 
it  keeps  better  thus  treated,  and  full  strength 
is  ensured.     He  prefers  the  stock  vessel  to  b 
of  stoneware,  furnished  with  a  tap  about  2 
inches  from  the  bottom,  whereby  the  water 
can  be  drawn  out  clear,  the  oil  either  rising 
to  the  top  or  sinking  to  the  bottom,  according 
to  its  specific  gravity.     As  soon  as  it  has  ac- 
quired its  full  odor,  or  reached  maturity,  it  is 
carefully  decanted  into  bottles,  which  are  then 
well  corked  or  stopped,  and  stored  in  a  moder- 
ately cool  place.     Some  of  the  leading  manu- 
facturing perfumers  keep  a  separate  still  for 
each  of  their  more  delicate  distilled  waters, 
and  thoroughly  clean  them  out  and  dry  them 
after  each    distillation,   as   it    is    extremely 
difficult  to  remove  any  odor  or  taint  that  ad- 
heres to  the  still,  still-head,  and  worm.     Even 
blowing  steam  through  them  for  some  hour; 
will  not  always  sufficiently  purify  them  for 
this  species  of  distillation.     In  the  preparation 
of  distilled  waters  for  medicinal  purposes,  a 
clean,  sweet  still,  still-head,  and  worm,  must 
also  be  employed.     The  two  last  should  be  o\ 
tin  or  glazed  stoneware ;    and  the  receiver; 
should  be  of  glass  or  stoneware.     The  utmost 
care  should  be  taken  to  prevent  contamination 
of  distilled  waters  by  contact  with  copper, 
l«ad  or  zinc,  since  they  slowly  oxidize  and 
dissolve  these  metals.     In  almost  all  cases, 
salted  or  pickled  flowers,  herbs,  &c.,  are  great- 
ly superior  to  the  fresh  vegetables   for  the 
preparation    of    fragrant     distilled    waters. 
When  the  former  are  employed  the  product 
has  little  or  none  of  the  herbaceous  and  raw 
odor  which  is  always  present  when  the  latter 
are  used,  besides  which  they  keep  better,  and 
reach  maturity,  or  the  full  development  of 
their  odor,  in  a  much  shorter  time.     (See  No. 
1349.)     Carefully    prepared    distilled    waters 
keep  well,  and  are  not  liable  to  any  change, 
but  when  the  reverse  is  the  case,  particularly 
when  the  liquor  in  the  still  has  spirted  over 
the  neck  of  the  still-head  into  the  condensing 
worm,  they  are  apt  to  acetify,  and  even  to  be- 
come ropy  and  viscid.     A  common,  but  very 
objectionable  plan,  in  such  cases,  is  to  agitate 
them  with  a  little  carbonate  of  magnesia,  and 
to  filter  them  through  paper.     The  only  safe 
remedy  is  to  re-distill  them  on  the  first  indi- 
cation of  such  change,  for  magnesia  weakens 
them.     Indeed,  all  their  essential  oil  and  fra- 
grance  may  be  removed  by  increasing  the 
quantity  of  it.     If  magnesia,  in  any  form,  be 
used  for  filtering  distilled  waters,  it  should  be 
the  carbonate ;  but  a  little  of  even  that  will 
be  dissolved  if  the  water  be  ever  so  slightly 
acidulous. 

1074.  To  Remove  the  Burnt  Smell 
of  Freshly  Distilled  Waters.  The  burnt 
smell  of  waters,  frequently  arising  from  care- 
less stilling,  is  usually  lost,  or  greatly  lessened, 
by  freezing,  or  by  exposure  to  a  temperature 
approaching  the  freezing  point ;  but  if  the 
water  be  highly  charged  with  essential  oil, 


part  of  the  latter  will  separate,  and  thus  the 
water  will  lose  some  of  its  fragrance.  (See 
No.  1076.) 

1075.  To  Prevent  Distilled  Waters 
from  Souring.     To  prevent  carelessly  pre- 
pared distilled  waters  acetifying  or  turning 
sour,  and  to  recover  those  which  have  begun 
to  spoil,  a  common  plan  is  to  shake  them  up 
with  a  little  calcined  magnesia,  or  to  dissolve 
in  each  pint  of  them  1  grain  each  of  powdered 
borax  and  alum.     This,  however,  is  not  to  be 
recommended,  as  it  unfits  the  waters  for  use 
as  vehicles.    Whenever  it  is  unavoidably  had 
recourse  to,  the  best  plan  is  to  re-distill  the 
water  a  few  days  afterwards. 

1076.  Practical  Suggestions  for  Ma- 
king Distilled  Waters.     There  are  certain 
general  rules  or  points  to  be  adhered  to  in  dis- 
tilling perfumed  waters :   Dry,  hard,  or  fibrous 
substances  should  be  mechanically  divided, 
and  macerated  in  water  before  undergoing  dis- 
tillation.    Too  great  a  quantity  of  materials 
should  not  be  introduced  at  one  time  into  the 
body  of  the  still ;  if  this  precaution  be  ne- 
glected, there  is  a  risk  of  the  liquid  boiling 
over  or  spirting  into  the  receiver.     Ebullition 
should  be  attained  as  quickly  as  possible,  and 
be  continuous.     Sufficient  water  should  be 
left  undistilled  to  cover  the  matter  in  the  still, 
to  guard  against  its  coming  in  contact  with 
the  sides  of  the  vessel.    In  this  case  the  mat- 
ter would  be  decomposed  by  the  heat,  and 
yield  empyreumatic  products ;  besides,  if  the 
distillation  is  carried  too  far,  a  slimy  forma- 
tion is  apt  to  adhere  to  the  sides  of  the  still, 
which  would  also  be  decomposed  by  the  heat, 
and  have  a  similar  effect  on  the    product. 
These  risks  may  be  greatly  lessened,  if  not 
entirely  avoided,  by  applying  heat  by  means 
of  an  oil-bath,  regulated  by  a  thermometer ; 
and  still  better  by  a  bath  containing  a  solution 
of  chloride  of  calcium  (muriate  of  lime).   Any 
degree  of  heat  between  212°  and  285°  Fahr. 
may  be  obtained  and  sustained  by  regulating 
the   strength  of  the   solution.     (See  No.  7.) 
Another  convenient  method  is  by  steam.     (See 
No.  1077.)    "Waters  distilled  from  plants  are 
apt  to  have  a  smoky  odor  at  first,  even  when 
the  greatest  care  and  precaution  have  been  ob- 
served in  their  distillation;  exposure  for  a  short 
;ime  to  the  air  will  remove  this,  after  which 
;hey  should  be  kept  in  closely-stoppered  bot- 
;les,  and  preferably  in  bottles  'containing  only 
sufficient  for  probable  use  at  one  time ;  they 
should  be  entirely  filled  and  closed  air-tight. 

1077.     Soubeiran's  Steam  Apparatus 
por  Distilled  Waters.  The  illustration  given 
s  a  vertical  section  of  Soubeiran's  apparatus 
used  in  Prance  for  obtaining  distilled  waters. 
A  cylindrical  tinned-copper  or  iron  boiler,  A, 
of  convenient  size,  say  3|  feet  high  and  2  feet 
n  diameter,  is  surmounted  by  an  expanded 
lead  or  capital,  B,  which  is  furnished  with  an 
nner  ledge,  forming  a  kind  of  gutter,  to  re- 
ceive the  liquid  condensed  on  the  inner  surface 
if  the  capital,  and  opening  into  the  exit  tube,  j 
.     About  6  inches  from  the  bottom  of  the  j 
jylinder  is  placed  a  false  bottom  or  diaphragm,  1 
?,  pierced  with  small  holes.     A  steam  pipe,  d,  \ 
laving  a  stop-cock,  a,  is  introduced  in  the 
cylinder  in  the  manner  shown,  terminating  in 
an  expansion,  &,  perforated  like  the  rose  of  a 
watering-pot,  and  located  a  little  below  the 
iaphragm. 


118 


AROMATIC    VINEGAR. 


The  material  to  be  distilled,  after  proper 
preparation,  is  placed  upon  the  diaphragm, 
the  capital,  B,  is  applied  and  luted  with  dex- 
trine paste ;  steam  is  passed  through  the  tube, 


and  issuing  from  6,  passes  through  the  material, 
becomes  loaded  with  the  volatile  matter,  rises 
into  the  capital,  condenses,  and  passes  through 
f,  into  a  worm  or  other  suitable  condenser. 

1078.  Vanilla   Water.      Macerate    1 
pound  vanilla  in  coarse  powder,  and  5  pounds 
salt  in  2£  gallons  water  for  24  hours.    Then 
distill  over  rapidly  1  gallon. 

1079.  Rose   Water.     Take   48   Troy 
ounces  pale  rose,   and  16  pints  water.    Mix 
them  and  distill  8  pints.    "When  it  is  desirable 
to  keep  the  rose  for  some  time  before  distill- 
ing, it  may  be  preserved  by  being  well  mixed 
with  i  its  weight  of  chloride  of  sodium  (table 
salt).     U.  S.  Ph.     (See  No.  1008.) 

1080.  To  Prepare  Aromatic  Waters 
from   Essential  Oils.     The   United  States 
Pharmacopeia,  although  not  discarding  alto- 
gether the  process  of  distillation  in  the  prepa- 
ration of  aromatic  water,  directs,  in  prefer- 
ence, that  water  should  be  impregnated  with 
the  volatile  oil  by  trituration  with  carbonate 
of  magnesia,  and  subsequently  filtered.    This 
is  the  most  simple  and  easy  process.    The  wa- 
ter is  obtained  pure  and  transparent,  the  mag- 
nesia being  separated  by  the  nitration.    The 
object  of  the  magnesia  is  simply  to  enable  the 
oil  to  be  brought  to  a  minute  state  of  subdi- 
vision, and  thus  present  the  largest  possible 
surface  to  the  water;  but  its  use  is  open  to  the 
objection  that  it  is  slightly  soluble  in  water, 
and  is  apt  to  produce,  under  certain  circum- 
stances, a  slightly  flocculent  precipitate.     It 
has  been  recommended  to  use  porcelain  clay, 
finely  powdered  glass,  or  pumice  stone,  in- 
stead of  magnesia,   as  these  substances  arc 
wholly  insoluble.     (See  No.  1073  and  1081.) 

1081.  Aromatic  or  Perfumed  Waters. 
Take  2  fluid  drachms  of  the  essential  oil  of 
the  plant,  triturate  with  2  drachms  levigated 
powdered  silex ;    then  add  very  gradually, 
with  constant  trituration,  8  pints  distilled  wa- 
ter.  After  brisk  agitation  for  some  time,  filter 
the  solution  through  filtering  paper  wetted 
with  pure  water.  This  is  a  convenient  method 
for  the  extemporaneous  preparation  of  per- 
fumed waters,  but,  without  great  care  in  ma- 
nipulating, the  products  are  inferior  instrength 
to  those  obtained  by  distillation.  Finely  pow- 
dered or  levigated  glass  may  be  used  when  si- 


lex  (quartz)  is  unobtainable.  Magnesia  and 
sugar  were  each  formerly  used  for  the  purpose, 
but  are  objectionable.  (See  No.  1080. 

1082.  Aromatic  or  Perfumed  Waters. 
Instead  of  preparing  the  waters  directly  from 
the  essential  oils,  an  essence  may  be  made  by 
dissolving  1  Imperial  fluid  ounce  of  the  essen- 
tial oil  in  9  fluid  ounces  rectified  spirit ;  2  Im- 
perial fluid  drachms,  of  the  essence  agitated 
briskly  for  some  time  with  1  Imperial  pint 
distilled  water,  and  filtered  through  wet  filter- 
ing paper,  will  make  a  good  perfumed  water. 
Cooley  says  this  is  an  excellent  formula  for 
extemporaneous  waters ;  but  the  U.  S.  Dis. 
pronounces  them  feeble  for  medicated  pur- 
poses, in  the  properties  of  their  respective  es- 
sential oils.  (See  No.  1008.) 


o    '— Vinai- 
•*^-  gre   Aromatique.    This 

is  a  compound  of  strong  acetic  acid  with  cer- 
tain powerful  essential  oils.  To  produce  the 
finer  qualities  of  aromatic  vinegar,  glacial 
acetic  acid  must  alone  be  employed.  Aromat- 
ic vinegar  is  used  as  a  pungent  and  refreshing 
nasal  stimulant  in  languor,  faintness,  nervous 
headaches,  dimness  of  sight,  &c.  For  this 
purpose  it  is  generally  dropped  on  a  small 
piece,  of  sponge  placed  in  a  stoppered  bottle, 
or  a  vinaigrette,  which  is  only  smelt  at.  It 
forms  a  useful  caustic  for  warts  and  corns. 
As  it  is  highly  corrosive,  it  should  be  kept 
from  contact  with  the  skin  and  clothes. 
(Cooley.) 

1084.  Fine  Aromatic  Vinegar.    Take 
of  glacial   acetic  acid,  1  pound   avoirdupois; 
rectified  spirit,  2  Imperial  fluid  ounces  ;  cam- 
phor (pure,  crushed  small),  2k  ounces ;  oil  of 
cloves  (finest),  1£  drachms;  oil  of  rosemary, 
1  drachm ;  oil  of  bergamot,  oil  of  cinnamon, 
oil  of  lavender,  oil  of  pimento,  ueroli  (or  es- 
sence de  petit- grain),  of  each,  A  drachm  ;  mix 
(in  a  stoppered  bottle),  and  agitate  until  the 
whole  of  the  camphor   is  dissolved.     Yery 
fine,  and  highly  esteemed. 

1085.  Aromatic    Vinegar.      Take    of 
camphor,  1  ounce  avoirdupois ;  oil  of  cloves,  1 
drachm ;  oil  of  cedrat,   and  lavender  (Mitch- 
am),  of  each  40  grains;  oil  of  bergamot  and 
thyme,  of  each  20  grains ;  oil  of  cinnamon,  10 
grains ;  glacial  acetic  acid,  £  pound ;  mix  as 
before.     Very  fine. 

1086.  Henry's    Aromatic    Vinegar. 
This  resembles  the  preceding,  except  in  being 
strongly  scented  with  the  oils  of  cloves,  lav- 
ender,   rosemary,    and    calamus    aromaticus 
only. 

1087.  Vinaigre  Aromatique.     Take  of 
camphor,  1  ounce  avoirdupois ;  oil  of  cloves, 
15  grains ;  oil  of  cinnamon,  10  grains ;    oil  of 
lavender  (English),    5  or  6  grains;    glacial 
acetic  acid,  4  pint.    As  the  last.     It  is  im- 
proved by  doubling  the  quantities  of  the  es- 
sential oils. 

1088.  Acetic  Perfumes.     The  stronger 
aromatic  or  perfumed  vinegars  fall  under  this 
class  of  preparations ;    as    do   also  various 
esprits  and   eaux   (alcooliques)   to   which  a 
marked  acetic  odor  has  been  given  by  the 
addition  of  concentrated  acetic  acid.     The 
latter    may    be    conveniently    prepared    by 
simply  adding  1  to  1£  fluid  ounces  of  glacial 


SMELLING  SALTS— PERFUMED  POWDERS. 


119 


acetic  acid  to  each  %  pint  of  scented  spirit. 
For  acetic  eau  de  Cologne  and  other  like  per- 
fumes, H  to  2  ounces  of  acid,  per  pint,  is  gen- 
erally sufficient. 


SaltS.  Sesquicarbon- 
ate  of  ammonia  commonly  passes  under 
this  name,  and,  with  the  addition  of  a  few 
drops  of  essential  oil,  is  frequently  employed 
to  till  smelling  bottles.  Its  pungency,  how- 
ever, is  neither  so  great  nor  so  durable  as  that 
of  the  true  or  neutral  carbonate  of  ammonia. 
The  latter  salt  continues  unchanged  in  com- 
position, and  preserves  its  pungency  as  long 
as  a  particle  of  it  remains  unvolatilized.  The 
portion  only  which  flies  off  suffers  decomposi- 
tion as  it  volatilizes,  separating  into  gaseous 
ammonia  and  carbonic  acid.  The  pungency 
of  the  sesquicarbonate,  on  the  other  hand,  de- 
pends solely  on  its  gradual  decomposition,  in 
the  solid  state,  into  carbonate  of  ammonia, 
which  flies  off  under  exposure  to  the  air ;  and 
into  bicarbonate  of  ammonia,  which  is  much 
less  volatile  and  only  slightly  pungent,  and 
which  remains  behind ;  the  weight  of  the  lat- 
ter being  far  greater  than  one-half  the  weight 
of  the  original  salt.  Carbonate  of  ammonia, 
and  not  the  sesquicarbonate,  should,  therefore, 
be  alone  used  in  filling  smelling  bottles,  if  a 
strong,  agreeable,  and  durable  pungency  be 
desired.  It  is  employed,  either  directly  or  in- 
directly, by  the  makers  of  all  the  more  es- 
teemed smelling  salts  of  the  day ;  and  their 
predecessors  did  the  same,  even  long  before 
the  chemistry  of  the  two  salts,  and  the  ration- 
ale of  the  properties  which  cause  a  preference 
for  the  one,  were  known.  (Coolcy.) 

1090.  Fine  Smelling  Salts.    Take  of 
carbonate   of    ammonia   (crushed    small),   1 
pound  avoirdupois;  oil  of  lavender  (Mitcham), 
oil    of  bergauiot,   of  each  1  Imperial  fluid 
ounce ;  oil  of  cloves,  2  fluid  drachms ;    oil  of 
cassia,  1  fluid  drachm.     Rub  them  thoroughly 
together,  sublime  at  a  very  gentle  heat  into 
a  well-cooled  receiver,  and  at  once  put  the 
product  into  a  well-stoppered  bottle,  or  bot- 
tles.   The  sublimation  may  be  omitted,  but 
the   quality   of  the  product  suffers.    This  is 
varied  in  some  samples,  by  substituting  1 
ounce  of  oil  of  lemon,  or  a  little  of  the  oils  of 
rosemary  and  sweet  flag  (calamus  aromaticus), 
for  the  oils  of  cloves  and  cassia ;  or  by  adding 
(after  sublimation)  a  dash  (2  or  3  drops  per 
bottle)  of  essence  of  musk  or  essence  royale. 

1091.  Smelling  Salts.     As  before,  but 
taking  as  perfume,  oil  of  bergamot,  2  fluid 
ounces ;  oil  of  verbena,  \  fluid  ounce;  attar  of 
roses,  1  to  2  drachms.    It  is  varied  as  in  the 
la^t. 

1092.  Smelling  Salts.     Same    as  No. 
1030,  but  using  oil  of  bergamot  aud  lemon, 
of  each,  f  fluid  ounce ;  essence  de  petit-grain, 
3  fluid  drachms;  oil  of  cloves  and  cassia,  of 
each,  1  fluid  drachm ;  varied,  as  before,  at  will. 

1093.  Inexhaustible  Smelling  Salts. 
Take  1  pint  liquid  ammonia,  1  drachm  attar 
of  rosemary,   1  drachm  attar  of  lavender,  \ 
drachm  attar  of  bergamot,  and  \  drachm  attar 
of  cloves.     Mix  together  by  agitation  in  a 
very  strong,  well-stoppered  bottle.    To  prepare 
a  smelling-bottle  of  this  mixture,  fill  a  stopper- 
bottle  with  pieces  of  sponge,  previously  well 


beaten,  washed  and  dried ;  pour  into  the  bot- 
tle as  much  of  the  mixture  as  the  sponge  will 
absorb,  but  not  sufficient  for  a  drop  to  escape 
if  the  bottle  be  inverted. 

1094.  Aromatic  Spirit  of  Ammonia. 
Take  of  carbonate  of  ammonia,  8  ounces 
avoirdupois ;  strong  liquor  of  ammonia  (.882) 
4  Imperial  fluid  ounces ;  volatile  oil  of  nut- 
meg, 4  fluid  drachms;  oil  of  lemon,  6  fluid 
drachms;  rectified  spirit,  6  pints;  water,  3 
pints ;  mix,  and  distill  7  pints.     Specific  grav- 
ity .870.    This  is  now  the  only  authorized  form- 
ula.   The  product  is  excellent,  and  very  agree- 
able in  use.    (Br.  Ph.) 

1095.  Ammpniated  Perfumes.    These 
are  prepared  by  either  adding  strong  liquor  of 
ammonia  to  the  liquid  perfumes  (eaux,  esprits, 
&c.,)  ih  sufficient  quantity  to  impart  to  them 
a  pungent  arnmoniacal  odor,  or  by  adding  to 
the  articles,  before  distillation,  the  ingredients 
that,  by  their  mutual  reaction,  produce  am- 
monia.   In  the  former  case,  i  to  l|  fluid  ounces 
of  liquor  of  ammonia  (.880-.882),  per  pint, 
will  be  required,  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  preparation  and  the  degree  of  pungency 
desired ;  and  in  general,  when  much  essential 
oil  is  present,  a  spirit  of  higher  strength  than 
usual  should  be  employed  for  the  esprit,  to 
compensate  for  its  subsequent  dilution  by  the 
ammonia.    In  the  other  case,  4  to  5  drachms 
of  sal  ammoniac,  and  7  to  8  drachms  of  car- 
bonate of  potash  for  each  pint  of  the  product 
intended  to  be  drawn  over,  are  mixed  with 
the  cold  ingredients  just  before  distillation. 
For  this  use  the  liquor  of  ammonia  must  be 
perfectly  free  from  tarry   or  empyreumatio 
matter,  and  have  a  purely  ammoniacal  odor. 

1096.  Ammoniated  Eau  de  Cologne ; 
Ammoniacal  Cologne  Water.    As  a  per- 
fume, this  is  best  prepared  by  either  of  the 
methods  noticed  under  ammoniated  perfumes. 
It  is  now  very  extensively  employed  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  spirit  of  sal  volatile.    "When  in- 
tended for  use  in  this  way,  a  more  agreeable 
and  effective  article  may  be  produced  by  add- 
ing 1  ounce  of  carbonate  (sesquicarbonate)  of 
ammonia,   and  •£  fluid  ounce  of  the  strong 
liquor  of  ammonia  to  each  pint  of  the  product, 
or  intended  product,  which  will  then  have 
about  the  strength  of  the  officinal  spirit  of  sal 
volatile  (spiritus  ammouise  aromaticus)  of  the 
British  Ph.    That  of  the  stores  has  usually 
only  little  more  than  half  this  strength. 

1097.  Eau   de  Lavande   Ammonia- 
cale.     To   each  Imperial  pint  of  eau  de  la- 
vande  (see  No.  989),  add  of  liquor  of  ammonia 
(.880-.882),  |  to  1  fluid  ounce. 

1098.  Ammoniacal  Lavender  Water. 
Take  of   oil  of   lavender  (English)   1   fluid 
ounce;  spirit  of  ammonia  (caustic)  H  pints; 
mix.     The  product  is  the  officinal  preparation 
of  the  French.    Used  as  a  stimulating  pungent 
scent,  in  fainting,  headaches,  &c. 


Perfiimed  Powders  and 
3R/O  UgeS.  Powders  for  the  hair  and 
skin  have  almost  gone  out  of  use.  The  basis  of 
perfumed  powders  is  either  orris,  or  fine  pearl 
starch.  The  perfume  of  the  finest  kinds  is  im- 
parted by  alternating  layers  of  starch  and  fresh 
flowers,  the  latter  being  afterwards  separated 
by  sifting.  The  simple  perfumed  powders  thus 


120 


COSMETICS. 


obtained,  by  judicious  admixture,  form  com- 
pound or  bouquet  powders.  The  tediousness 
and  expense  of  this  process  prevent  its  gener- 
al employment.  The  common  mode  is  to 
scent  by  the  direct  addition  of  extracts  or  es- 
sential oils,  or  else  to  mix  in  powdered  fra- 
grant material  with  the  orris  or  starch. 

1100.  Violet  Powder.     Wheat  starch, 
12  pounds ;  powdered  orris,  2  pounds.     Mix 
together,  and  add  attar  of  lemon,   £  ounce ; 
attars  of  bergamot  and  cloves,  each  2  drachms. 

1101.  Poudre  d'Iris.     Powdered  orris 
root,   12  pounds;  powdered  bergamot  peel, 
and  acacia  flowers,  each  8  ounces ;  powdered 
cloves,  i  ounce.    Mix  and  sift. 

1102.  Prepared  Bran  for  the  Hair. 
Powdered  wheat  bran,  1  pound;    powdered 
orris,  2  ounces.    Mix  and  sift.  v  paste. 

1103.  Poudre    Noir   for   the   Hair.       1115. 
Starch    and    orris    in  fine  powder,    each  8 
ounces;    charcoal   and    ivory   black,  in  fine 
powder,  each  1  ounce.    Mix  and  sift. 

1104.  Poudre  Blonde  for  the  Hair. 
Finely  powdered  starch  and  orris,  8  ounces 
each;  as  in  the  preceding,  but  with  yellow 
ochre  for  the  coloring  matter. 

1105.  Poudre  a  la  Vanille  Brune  for 
the  Skin  or  for  Sachets.     Powdered  vanilla, 
rose-leaves,   lump  storax,  benzoin,  rhodium, 
pallisandre  and  ebony  woods,  each  1  pound  ; 
powdered  cloves,  2  ounces;  powdered  musk, 
2  drachms.     Mix  together  with  3  pounds  of 
starch ;  sift,  and  add  a  few  drops  of  extracts 
of  tuberose  and  jasmin. 

1106.  Poudre  a  PCEillet  Composee— 
for  the  Skin  or  Sachets.     Powdered  rose 
leaves  and  orris  root,  each  3  pounds;  pow- 
dered bergamot    peel,   1    pound ;    powdered 
cloves  and  cinnamon,  each  6  ounces ;  pow- 
dered   acacia    and    orange    flowers,   each    8 
ounces ;  starch,  3  pounds. 

1 107.  Paints  or  Rouges  for  the  Skin. 
Paints  or  rouges  are  the  means  by  which  the 
natural  color  of  the  skin  may  be  heightened 
or  changed.     They  are,  however,  objectionable 
preparations,  and  the  use  of  them  extends 
very  little  beyond  the  theatres,  where  they 
are  employed  to  produce  stage  effect. 

1108.  French  White.     This  is  the  min- 
eral talc,  or  French  chalk,  finely  powdered  and 
bolted.    It  forms  the  basis  of  the  most  harm- 
less rouges.     Perfume  is  added  as  may  be 
desired. 

1109.  Pearl   White.      Pure    oxide    or 
subnitrate  of  bismuth  in  powder.     This  pig- 
ment darkens  in  atmospheres  containing  sul- 
phide of  hydrogen.     1  ounce  triturated  with 
4  ounces  of  orange-flower  water  makes  liquid 
white  for  theatrical  use. 

1110.  Pearl  Powder.  Precipitated 
chalk  finely  bolted  and  perfumed.  The 
French  add  oxides  of  zinc  and  bismuth,  each 
1  ounce  to  the  pound  of  chalk. 

1111.  Caution  against  Bismuth  as  a 
Cosmetic.  The  continued  use  of  bismuth- 
white  injures  the  skin,  and  ultimately  pro- 
duces paralysis  of  its  minute  vessels,  render- 
ing it  yellow  and  leather-like — an  effect  which, 
unfortunately,  those  who  employ  it  generally 
attempt  to  conceal  by  its  freer  and  more  fre- 


tion  of  gum  tragacanth.  For  lighter  shades, 
the  proportion  of  carmine  must  be  diminished. 
For  commoner  pastes,  rose-pink  replaces  the 
carmine  as  coloring  matter.  It  may  be  made 
into  a  pomade. 

1113.  Bloom   of    Roses.      Powdered 
carmine  of  the  best  quality,  2  drachms,  di- 
gested with  strong   ammonia,  4  ounces,  in  a 
tightly  stoppered  bottle  for  2  days,  at  the 
ordinary    temperature    of  the    atmosphere. 
Then  add  rose  water,  1  pint ;  and  essence  of 
rose,  4  ounces.     After  standing  for  a  week  to 
settle,   the  clear  liquid  may  be  poured  off 
from  the  sediment,  and  bottled. 

1114.  Azure    Paste.     Talc   and  ultra- 
marine, finely  bolted,  equal  parts,  triturated 
with  a  solution  of  gum  tragacauth  into  a  stiff 

Enamel  Powder.  Take  equal 
parts  finely  scraped  talc  or  French  chalk,  and 
pearl-white;  sufficient  rouge  or  carmine  to 
slightly  tinge  it ;  mix.  Used  to  conceal  dis- 
colorations ;  and,  without  the  coloring,  to 
whiten  the  skin. 


/Cosmetics   for  the 
Complexion. 


quent  application. 
1112.     Carmine  Rouge. 


Skin 

The  pre- 
parations under  this"  head  are  designed  to 
soften  the  skin  and  beautify  the  complexion. 
We  annex  receipts  for  the  more  important. 
The  heating  medium  in  the  manufacture  of 
them  must  be  either  a  water  or  steam  bath. 

1117.  To  Make  Amandine.  Put  into 
a  large  marble  mortar  2  ounces  gum  arable, 
and  6  ounces  white  honey;  triturate,  and 
when  the  mixture  has  been  rubbed  into  a 
thick  paste,  add  3  ounces  perfectly  neutral 
almond  shaving  cream.  (See  ^0.602.)  Then 
continue  the  trituration  until  the  mixture  has 
become  homogeneous.  2  pounds  of  fresh 
cold-pressed  sweet  almond  oil  are  next  allowed 
to  flow  from  a  can  above  into  the  mortar,  but 
only  as  rapidly  as  it  can  be  incorporated  with 
the  mass ;  otherwise,  if  it  enters  in  too  large 
quantities,  the  blending  is  imperfect,  and 
the  amandine  becomes  oily  instead  of  jelly- 
like  and  transparent,  as  it  should  be  when  the 
manipulation  has  been  skillful.  In  summer 
temperatures  it  will  be  difficult  to  effect  a 
combination  of  all  the  oil ;  and,  therefore,  the 
flow  should  be  stopped  as  soon  as  the  mixture 
becomes  bright  and  assumes  a  crystalline  lus- 
tre. The  perfume  should  be  mixed  with  the 
almond  oil,  and  consists  of  ^  drachm  attar  of 
bitter  almonds  to  every  pound  of  paste.  A 
little  attar  of  rose  and  bergamot  may  also  be 
added — about  1  drachm  of  each.  As  soon  as 
finished  it  must  be  put  in  close  pots. 

1118.  To  TJse  Amandine.  To  produce 
amandine  of  fine  quality  is  a  matter  of 
some  difficulty  and  labor,  and  requires  ex- 
perience and  considerable  manipular  skill. 
The  details  essential  to  success  are  noticed 
under  "  Emulsions."  (See  No.  43.)  A  small 
quantity,  say  a  lump  of  filbert  size,  gives  with 
warm  water  a  rich  lather,  which,  when  rubbed 
over  the  face  and  hands,  imparts  softness,  and 
prevents  chapping.  It  should  be  wiped  off 


Finely  bolted 


talc,   4  ounces;    carmine,   2   drachms.     Mix 
together  with  a  little  warm  and  dilute  solu- 


while  still  in  lather,  with  a  dry  towel. 

1119.  Glycerine  Amandine.  As  the 
preceding,  but  adding,  with  the  shaving 
cream,  J  to  1  ounce  of  Price's  glycerine  for 


COSMETICS. 


121 


every  pound  of  oil  intended  to  be  subsequently 
added. 

1120.  Colored  Amandine.     Amandine 
may  be  colored  green  with,  spinach-leaves, 
and  yellow  and  orange  with  palm  oil  or  an- 
notto,    by  digesting  or  dissolving  the  sub- 
stances in  the  oil  before  adding  the  scents.    A 
beautiful  scarlet  or  crimson  may  be  given  to 
it  by  adding  a  little  liquid  rouge  or  carmine 
(ammoniacal),  just  before  removing  it  from  the 
mortar.     Olivine  is  a  similar  preparation  to 
amandine,    but   made   with  olive-oil.     It  is 
often  colored  green. 

1121.  Cosmetic    Balsam    of  Honey. 
Take  finest  pale  honey,  4  ounces  (avoirdupois); 
glycerine  (Price's),  1  ounce;  unite  by  a  gentle 
heat;  when  cold,  add  rectified  spirit,  1  fluid 
ounce  (Imperial);    essence  of  ambergris,  6 
drops ;  and  at  once  bottle  it.    Used  to  soften 
and  whiten  the  skin,  prevent  chaps,  <fcc. 

1122.  Freckle  Balsam.     To  the  balsam 
of  honey  prepared  as  directed  in  the  last  re- 
ceipt, add  pure  citric  acid,  3  drachms.     Used 
to  prevent  and  remove  freckles  and  discolora- 
tions. 

1 1 23.  Almond  Paste.   Reduce  blanched 
almonds  to  a  very  smooth  paste  by  patiently 
pounding  them  in  a  marble  mortar,  adding 
gradually,  toward  the  end,  a  little  rose-water, 
or  orange-flower  water,  with  a  few  drops  of 
attar  of  roses  or  neroli,  or  a  little  eau  de  Co- 
logne, or  other  perfume,  at  will.    Lastly,  put 
the  paste  into  covered  porcelain  pots  or  jars. 

1124.  Bitter    Almond    Paste.      Take 
equal  parts  bitter  almonds  and  sweet  almonds; 
and  rose-water,  a  sufficient  quantity ;  and  pro- 

'  ceed  as  before.  No  scent  need  be  added. 
Both  the  preceding  are  occasionally  diversified 
by  the  addition  of  either  powdered  spermaceti 
in  weight  equal  to  about  -J-  part  of  that  of  the 
almonds,  or  of  \  this  weight  of  white  soap. 
Sometimes  the  white  of  an  egg  is  added. 

1125.  Cold  Cream.     Take  1  ounce  avoir- 
dupois each  pure  white  wax  and  spermaceti, 
and  i  Imperial  pint  oil  of  almonds;    melt, 
pour  the   mixture  into   a  marble  or  wedg- 
wood-ware    mortar    (or    a    porcelain  basin), 
which  has  been  heated  by  being  immersed 
for  some  time  in  boiling  water;  add,  very 
gradually,  of  rose-water,  4  fluid  ounces ;  and 
assiduously  stir  the  mixture  \mtil  an  emulsion 
is  formed,  and  afterwards  until  the  whole  is 
very  nearly  cold,     Lastly,  put  it  into  porce- 
lain or  earthenware  pots  for  use  or  sale. 

1126.  Hudson's  Cold  Cream.     This  is 
prepared  in  the  same  way  as  the  above,  with 
the  addition  of  1  fluid  ounce  orange-flower 
water. 

1127.  Sultana  Cold  Cream.     Take  i 
ounce  avoirdupois  each,  pure  spermaceti  and 
white  wax ;  almond-oil,  and  butter  of  cacao, 
each  J  pound ;  melt,  and  stir  in  of  balsam  of 
Peru,  2  drachms.     After  repose,  pour  off  the 
clear  portion,  add  orange-flower  water,  2  Im- 
perial fluid  drachms,  and  stir  it  briskly  until  it  j 
concretes.    Used  like  cold  cream,  lip-salve,  &c. 

1128.  Creme  de  Cathay.    Melt  together 
over  a  water  bath,  white  wax  and  spermaceti, 
each  2  drachms ;    then  add  oil  of  sweet  al- 
monds,   4    ounces,     and    Mecca  balsam,    3 
drachms;    next  perfume  with  rose-water,  6 
drachms  ;  stir  until  cold. 

1129.  Glycerine  Cream.     This  superior 
cosmetic  is  the  well-known  cold-cream,  (see 


No.  1125),  with  glycerine  substituted  for  rose- 
water.  Melt  together  spermaceti,  6  ounces; 
and  white  wax,  1  ounce,  in  1  pound  of  sweet 
almond  oil.  Then  remove  from  the  fire,  and 
stir  in  Price's  glycerine,  4  ounces ;  and  when 
congealing,  perfume  with  attar  of  rose,  20 
drops.  Other  attars  may  be  used  as  desired, 
in  place  of  rose. 

1130.  Hose  Glycerine  Cream.     Sper- 
maceti,   i  ounce ;   oil  of  sweet  almonds,   2 
ounces;   white  wax,  1   ounce;    glycerine,   4 
ounces :  mix  the  spermaceti,  white  wax  and 
oil  of  almonds  together  first ;   then  add  the 
glycerine  and  stir  the  mixture  until    cool. 
Perfume  with  attar  of  rose. 

1131.  Snow    Cream.     Melt    3    ounces 
spermaceti,    2    ounces    white    wax,   and    12 
ounces  fresh  oil  of  almonds,  in  a  water-bath ; 
pour  it  into  a  marble  mortar,  and  stir  briskly 
to  prevent  granulation ;  when  of  the  consist- 
ence of  butter,  triturate  until  the  mixture  has 
a  white,  creamy  appearance ;  then,  during  con- 
tinued trituration,  add  by  degrees  a  mixture 
of  1  ounce  double  water  of  roses  and  1  ounce 
odorless  glycerine;  incorporate  for  20  minutes, 
and  add  10  drops  essence  of  roses ;  beat  for 
about  half  an  hour,  put  into  pots  or  jars,  and 
close  air-tight. 

1132.  Fine    Camphor    Ice.     Melt  to- 
gether over  a  water-bath,   white    wax  and 
spermaceti,  each  1  ounce ;  camphor,  2  ounces ; 
in  sweet  almond  oil,  1  pound.    Next,  triturate 
in  the  manner  directed  for  amandine,   and 
allow  1  pound  of  rose-water  to  flow  in  slowly 
during  the  operation.     Then    perfume  with 
attar  of  rosemary,  1  drachm.    An  inferior  and 
cheaper  quantity  may  be  made  as  follows : — 

1133.  Camphor  Ice.     Oil  of  sweet  al- 
monds, 2  ounces ;  spermaceti,  4  ounces ;  white 
wax,  2    ounces ;    camphor,   i    ounce ;    melt 
them  over  a  water-bath,  run  in  moulds  of 
proper  size  and  form. 

1134.  Pate  d'Amande  au  Miel.     Eub 
together  1  pound  honey  and  the  yolks  of  8 
eggs ;  then  gradually  add  sweet  almond  oil,  1 
pound,     during    constant    trituration,     and 
work  in  bitter  almonds — blanched  and  ground 
to  meal,  8  ounces ;  finally  perfume  with  attars 
of  bergamot  and  cloves,  each  2  drachms. 

1135.  Pomade  Rosat.     Melt   together 
white  wax,  2  ounces ;  oil  of  sweet  almonds, 
4   ounces;    alkanet,  3   drachms.     Digest   for 
several  hours,  strain,  and  add  12  drops  attar 
of  rose  ;  used  for  the  lips. 

1136.  Cacao  Pomade.    Take  of  cacao 
butter,   oil  of  almonds,    white  wax   (pure), 
equal  parts ;   melt  them  together,   and  stir 
until  nearly  cold.     Used  as  an  emollient  skin- 
cosmetic,  particularly  for  chapped  lips,  hands, 
&c.    It  is  sometimes  colored  with  a  little 
palm-oil.     Scent  may  be  added  at  will.    It  is 
highly  esteemed  by  some  persons  as  a  hair 
pomade. 

1137.  Creme  de  Psyche— for  the  Lips. 
"White  wax  and  spermaceti,  each  1  ounce ;  oil 
of  sweet  almonds,  5  ounces.    Melt  together, 
and  pour  in  Mecca  balsam,  1  drachm ;  and 
stir  until  the  mass  congeals,   then  add  10 
grains  powdered  acetate  of  lead. 

1138.  Lait    Virginal.      Orange-flower 
water,  8  ounces;  and  tincture  of  benzoin,  2 
drachms.     The  former  is  added  very  slowly  to 
the  latter  during  constant  trituration,  so  as 
to  produce  an  opalescent  milky  fluid. 


122 


COSMETICS. 


1139.  Creme  de  Pistache.    Pistachio 
nuts,  3  ounces;  green  oil,  palm  soap,  wax, 
and  spermaceti,  each  1  ounce ;  orange-flower 
water,  3£  pints  ;  essence  of  neroli,  12  ounces ; 
make  as  directed  for  the  preceding  milks. 

1140.  Milk  of  Hoses.     Place  over   a 
water-bath,  oil  soap,  1  ounce ;  and  melt  it  in 
5  or  6  ounces  rose-water;   then  add  white 
wax  and  spermaceti,  1  ounce,  and  continue 
the  heat  until  they  have  melted.     Next  take 
1  pound  blanched  almonds,  beat  them  to  a 
meal  in  a  clean  marble  mortar,  with  3-J  pints 
rose-water,  admitted  portionwise,  during  the 
trituration.     (See  No.  43.)    The  emulsion  of 
almonds,  thus  made,  is  to  be  strained  without 
pressure  through  washed  white  muslin,  and 
run  very  slowly  into  the  previously  formed 
soap-mixture;   the  whole  being  blended  at 
the  same  time  by  energetic  trituration.    To- 
wards the  end  of  this  operation,  2  drachms 
attar  of  rose,  dissolved  in  8  ounces  inodorous 
alcohol,  are  to  be  let  into  the  mixture  very 
gradually,  and  in  a  thin  stream,  during  con- 
stant rubbing  of  the  mass.    This  cautious 
manipulation  is  indispensable  to  the  smooth- 
ness and  perfection  of  the  milk.     (See  No. 
43.)    The  last  operation  is  to  strain;  and, 
after  the  liquid  has  had  a  day's  repose,  to 
bottle  it.     This  is  a  highly  esteemed  cosmetic 
for  the  skin  and  complexion.     Milk  of  cucum- 
bers may  be  made  in  the  same  manner  as 
milk  of  roses,  by  substituting  juice  of  cucum- 
bers for  rose-water. 

1141.  Lotion   for   Freckles.      Take 
bichloride  of  mercury,  6  grains  avoirdupois ; 
pure  hydrochloric  acid,  specific  gravity  1.15, 
1  Imperial  fluid  drachm ;    distilled  water,  j 
pint ;  mix,  and  add  rectified  spirit  and  eau  de 
rose,  each  2  fluid  ounces ;  Price's  glycerine,  1 
ounce. 

1142.  Lotion  to  Remove   Freckles. 
Dissolve  3   grains  borax  in  5  drachms  each 
rose-water,  and  orange-flower  water;  a  very 
simple  and  harmless  remedy  is  equal  parts  of 
pure  glycerine  and  rose-water,  applied  every 
night,  and  allowed  to  dry. 

1143.  Iodine   Lotion   for  Eruptions 
of  the  Skin.     Take  iodide  of  potassium,  30 
grains  avoirdupois;    iodine,  15  grains;    dis- 
tilled or  soft  water,  1  Imperial  pint ;  add  only 
a  couple  of  table-spoonfuls  of  the  water  at 
first,  and  when  by  agitation  the  solids  are 
dissolved,   add  the  remainder.     This  is  the 
common  and  best  form  of  ioduretted  lotion  or 
wash    for    ordinary  purposes.      It    is    often 
serviceable  in  enlarged  and  indurated  glands, 
itch,  &c.  Or :  take  iodide  of  potassium,  1  to  2 
drachms,  and  distilled  water,  1  pint ;  dissolve. 

1144.  Glycerinated  Lotion  of  Iodide 
of  Potassium.     To  the  last  add   1   ounce 
Price's  glycerine.    Both  are  excellent  skin- 
cosmetics,   employed  like  Gowland's    lotion 
particularly  for  persons  with  a  scrofulous  or 
scorbutic  taint,   or   who  are   troubled  with 
eruptions,   swellings,   or  indurations  arising 
from  it.     It  is  also  excellent  as  a  hair- wash. 
The  product  of  the  last  formula  may  be  ad- 
vantageously used  instead  of  hair-oil. 

1145.  Lotion  of  Bichloride  of  Mer- 
cury.    Take  corrosive  sublimate  (in  coarse 
powder),  10  grains  avoirdupois ;  distilled  wa- 
ter. 1  Imperial  pint;   agitate  them  together 
until  solution  be  complete.    The  addition  of 
5  or  6  grains  hydrochlorate  of  ammonia  (pure 


sal-ammoniac)  or  5  or  6  drops  (not  more) 
hydrochloric  acid,  increases  the  solvent  action 
of  the  water,  and  renders  the  preparation  less 
liable  to  surfer  change,  but  is  not  otherwise 
advantageous.  When  absolutely  pure  dis- 
tilled water  is  not  used,  this  addition  of  acid 
should  be  made  to  prevent  decomposition. 
Some  persons  dissolve  the  sublimate  in  2  or  3 
fluid  drachms  rectified  spirit  before  adding 
the  water,  to  facilitate  the  process ;  but  this 
also,  though  convenient,  is  unnecessary. 
Apart  from  its  value  as  a  cosmetic,  the  above 
lotion  is  an  excellent  application  in  a  variety 
of  obstinate  eruptions,  and  in  obstinate  sores 
and  glandular  swellings  and  indurations  of  a 
minor  character;  the  first  of  which  it  seldom 
fails  to  relieve,  provided  the  bowels  and  diet 
be  carefully  attended  to,  and  sufficient  exer- 
cise be  taken  daily.  Ordinary  mild  cases  of 
itch  rapidly  disappear  under  its  use.  The 
addition  of  about  1  ounce  pure  glycerine  con- 
verts it  into  a  lotion  admirably  adapted  to 
allay  itching  and  irritation  generally,  as  well 
as  into  one  of  the  best  cosmetic  washes  known. 
For  the  latter  purpose,  a  little  pure  rose  water 
or  orange-flower  water  may  be  added,  at  will, 
to  give  it  fragrance ;  a  like  quantity  of  distill- 
ed water,  in  the  case  of  any  of  the  above 
additions,  being  omitted. 

1146.  Eau  de  Beaute.     Bichloride  of 
mercury    (corrosive    sublimate),    8    grains ; 
camphor,   10  grains ;    sulphate   of  zinc,  and 
solution  of  lead  (liquor  of  acetate  of  lead), 
each  2  scruples;  rose  water  5±  ounces;  and 
the  yolk  of  a  small  egg.    This  mixture  is 
regularly  in  use  by  Creole  ladies  for  beautify- 
ing their  skin. 

1147.  Glycerine  Lotion.     Take  Price's 
glycerine,  1  ounce,  and  distilled  or  pure  soft 
water,  19  ounces  ;  mix.     A  good  strength  for 
daily  use  as  a  cosmetic  wash,  or  as  a  .vehicle 
for  other  ingredients,  for  which  purpose  it  is 
greatly  preferable  to  milk  of  almonds ;  also 
as  a  lotion  to  allay  itching  and  irritation  of 
the    skin,   prevent    chaps,   excoriations,   the 
effects  of  weather,  climate,  (fee.    It  is  like- 
wise applied  to  the  hair  instead  of  oil. 

1148.  Glycerine  Lotion  N9.  2.    Take  of 
Price's  glycerine,  1  ounce,  and  distilled  water, 
17  ounces;  mix.  A  proper  strength  when  more 
marked  effects  are  desired;    as  in  chapped 
hands,  lips,  and  nipples,  obstinate  excoria- 
tions, abrasions,  chatings,  sunburns,  persistent 
roughness  or  hardness  of  the  skin,  &e. 

1149.  Glycerine  Lotion  No.  3.     Take 
of   Price's    glycerine,   3  ounces ;    water,   17 
ounces;    mix.      This  is  adapted  for  use  in 
obstinate    cases,   or  when  still    more  rapid 
effects  are  desired ;  also  as  an  application  to 
burns  and  scalds.  , 

1150.  Fragrant   Glycerine  Lotions. 
Any  of  the  foregoing  glycerine  lotions  may  be 
rendered  fragrant  and  more  agreeable  by  em- 
ploying rose  water  or  elder-flower  water,  in- 
stead of  water,  or  by  the  addition  of  a  little 
eau  de  Cologne,   lavender   water,   or    other 
scent,  at  will.     The  addition  of  a  few  drops  of 
essence  of  musk  or  of  ambergris,  per  pint,  or 
of  a  couple  of  ounces  of  eau  de  rose  or  eau 
de  fleurs  d'oranges,  in  lieu  of  an  equal  bulk  of 
water,  imparts  a  delicate  odor  which  is  always 
highly  esteemed.    In  like  manner  they  may 
be    medicated    or   increased  in    efficacy,   in 
various  ways,  for  toilet  and    personal  use. 


COSMETICS. 


123 


Thus,  the  addition  of  a  little  borax  (2  or  3 
drachms  per  pint),  renders  them  more  effect- 
ive in  chaps,  excoriations,  <fcc.;  a  little  salt  of 
tartar,  or  of  lemon  j  uice,  vinegar,  or  rectified 
spirit,  increases  their  power  of  allaying  itching 
and  morbid  irritability  in  skin-diseases,  as 
well  as  converts  No.  1  (more  particularly)  in- 
to an  excellent  wash  for  freckles  and  like  dis- 
colorations.  8  or  10  grains  of  bichloride  of 
mercury,  per  pint,  converts  it  into  the  ad- 
mirable lotion  of  that  substance.  (See  No. 
1145.)  In  like  manner,  by  the  addition  of  a 
drachm  or  so  of  iodide  of  potassium,  or  of 
compound  tincture  of  iodine,  we  have  a 
healthful  cosmetic  wash  particularly  service- 
able to  persons  with  a  scrofulous  taint. 
Strongly  scent  it  with  the  oils  of  origanum 
and  rosemary,  or  impregnate  it  with  a  certain 
proportion  of  cantharides,  or  some  other  ap- 
propriate stimulant  and  rubefacient,  and  we 
have  respectively  the  most  cleanly,  convenient, 
and  useful  hair  cosmetics.  Indeed,  merely  to 
enumerate  all  the  uses  it  may  be  placed  to  in 
the  cosmetic  and  allied  treatment  of  the  per- 
son, would  alone  fill  many  pages. 

1151.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Glycer- 
ine.    Glycerine  weighed  at  the  temperature 
of  60°  Fahrenheit  should  have  no  less  than 
29°  B. ;  if  it  contains  lime  or  alkalies,  one 
degree  should  be  deducted,  as  these  substances 
make  it  heavier. 

Rubbed  on  the  hand,  it  should  be  perfectly 
inodorous.  Impure  glycerine,  under  this  test, 
has  a  disagreeable  smell.  The  impurity  caus- 
ing this  odor  is  mostly  butyric  ucid,  as  by 
contact  with  the  glycerine  it  forms  a  very 
volatile  glycerole.  Such  an  article  will  al- 
ways grow  worse  by  age. 

The  presence  of  chlorine,  sometimes  used 
for  bleaching  glycerine,  is  detected  by  tinging 
the  sample  blue  with  sulphate  of  indigo,  and 
then  adding  a  little  sulphuric  acid;  if  free 
chlorine,  or  chloride  of  calcium,  be  present, 
the  blue  color  will  disappear. 

If  a  few  drops  of  a  solution  of  nitrate  of 
silver  be  added  to  glycerine,  the  presence  of 
chlorine  is  marked  by  the  formation  of  a  white 
precipitate. 

Oxalate  of  ammonia  will  precipitate  lime,  if 
present.  Lead  will  be  detected  in  the  same 
way  by  hydrosulphate  of  ammonia ;  and  sul- 
phuric acid  by  a  soluble  salt  of  baryta. 

Cane  sugar  may  be  traced  by  increased 
sweetness  of  taste;  also  by  dissolving  the 
glycerine  in  chloroform,  in  which  it  is  com- 
pletely soluble  if  pure,  sugar  being  insoluble 
in  it. 

1 1 52.  Caution  About  Glycerine.    The 
property  which  has  caused  most  annoyance 
in  the  use  of  glycerine  is  its  strong  affinity 
for  water.     Although  glycerine  has  a  pleas- 
ant, sweetish  taste,  yet  the  first  sensation  that 
is  fait  when  it  is  applied  to  the  tongue  is  one 
of  paiu  and  burning.     This  is  caused  by  the 
fact  that  the  glycerine  absorbs  all  the  mois- 
ture from  the  surface  that  it  touches,  and  thus 
dries  it  up  and  parches  the  nerves.    Ignorant 
of  this  fact,  nurses  and  mothers  have  applied 
pure  glycerine  to  the  chafed  skin  of  infants, 
and   produced    great    pain.      The    glycerine 
ought  to  have  been  first  mixed  with  an  equal 
bulk  of  water,  or  at  least  with  so  much  as 
would  remove  its  burning  action  on  the  sense 
of  taste.     This  being  done,  it  may  be  applied 


to  the  most  tender  surfaces  without  produc- 
ing injury,  and  as  it  does  not  dry  up,  virtually 
maintains  the  parts  in  a  constantly  moist  con- 
dition, excluding  the  air  and  promoting  the 
healing  process. 

1153.  Fine  Glycerine  Lotion.      Gly- 
cerine, 3  fluid  ounces ;  quince-seed  mucilage, 
(see  next  receipt),  10  fluid  drachms;  pulverized 
cochineal,  5  grains ;  hot  water,  1  k  fluid  ounces ; 
inodorous  alcohol,  2  j  fluid  ounces ;  oil  of  rose, 
8  drops ;    pulverized  gum-arabic  ;  k.  drachm ; 
water,  8  fluid  ounces.     Rvfb  the  powdered 
cochineal  first  with  the  hot  water  gradually 
added,   and  then  add    the    alcohol.      Then 
triturate  the  oil  of  rose  well  with  the  pow- 
dered gum-arabic,  and  gradually  add  the  wa- 
ter as  in  making  emulsion.     (Sec  No.  43.) 
"With  this  mix  well  the  solution  first  formed, 
and  filter,  and  to  the  filtered  liquid  add  the 
glycerine  and  mucilage  of  quince  seeds,  and 
shake  well.      The  mucilage  of  quince  seeds 
should  always  be  freshly  made.     If  the  alco- 
hol is  sweet  and  free  from  foreign  odor,  and 
the    glycerine    perfectly    inodorous,    a    less 
quantity  of  oil  of  rose  may  suffice.    If  care  is 
taken  in  its  manufacture,   this  will  form  a 
beautiful  and  elegant  preparation,  with  a  rich 
rosy  fragrance.     When  applied  to  the  skin  it 
imparts  an  agreeably  soft,  smooth,  and  velvety 
feel.     It  is  an  excellent  application  for  the 
face  after  shaving,  or  for  allaying  the  irritation 
caused  by  exposure  to  the  wind. 

1154.  Quince  Mucilage.    The  mucilage 
of  quince  seeds  may  be  made  by  boiling  for 
10  minutes  1  drachrn  quince  seeds  in  k  pint 
water,  and  straining.    This  is  sometimes  used 
as  a  bandoline,  but  it  soon  decomposes,  and, 
therefore  for  that  purpose,  only  very  small 
quantities  should  be  prepared. 

1155.  Gowland's  Lotion.    The  formula 
sanctioned  by  the  medical  profession  is  to  take 
of  Jordan  almonds  (blanched),  1  ounce;  bit- 
ter almonds,  2  to  3  drachms ;  distilled  water, 

4  pint;  form  them  into  an  emulsion.     To  the 
strained  emulsion,  with  agitation,  gradually 
add  of  bichloride  of  mercury  (in  coarse  pow- 
der), 15  grains  previously  dissolved  in  dis- 
tilled water,  5  pint.    After  which  further  add 
enough  water  to  make  the  whole  measure  ex- 
actly 1  pint.    Then  put  it  in  bottles.     This  is 
used  as  a  cosmetic  by  wetting  the  skin  with 
it,  and  gently  wiping  off  with  a  dry  cloth.    It 
is  also  employed  as  a  wash   for  obstinate 
eruptions  and  minor  glandular  swellings  and 
indurations. 

1156.  Lotion  of  Borax,  for  Sore  Gums 
and   Nipples.     Take    5  drachms  powdered 
borax;  distilled  water,  k  pint;  mix.     An  ef- 
fective  wash    for  sore   gums,   sore    nipples, 
excoriations,  <fec.,  applied  twice  or  thrice  daily, 
or  oftener. 

1157.  Glycerinated  Lotion  of  Borax 
for  Chaps  and  Sunburns.     Take  G  drachms 
avoirdupois  powdered  borax;  Price's  glycerine. 
J  ounce ;  rose-water  or  elder-flower  water,  12 
ounces ;  mix.     Resembles  the  last,  but  is  fra- 
grant and  much  more  agreeable  and  effective. 
Its  daily  use  as  a  cosmetic  wash  renders  the  skin 
beautifully  soft  and  white,  and  prevents  and 
removes  chaps,  sunburns,  <fec. 

1158.  Cazenave's  Lotion  of  Cyanide 
of  Potassium.     Take  cyanide  of  potassium, 

5  grains    avoirdupois ;    emulsion    of   bitter- 
almonds,  3  Imperial  fluid  ounces;  dissolve. 


COSMETICS. 


Used  like  the  last,  to  allay  itching  and  irrita- 
tion, particularly  after  shaving;  also  for  frec- 
kles and  pustules.  (See  No.  43.)  The  above 
is  Cazenave's  formula.  The  next  receipt  is, 
however,  preferable, 

1 1 59.  Glycerinated  Lotion  of  Cyanide 
of  Potassium.     Take  cyanide  of  potassium, 
6  grains    avoirdupois ;    glycerine,   $    ounce ; 
strongest  camphor- water,   2k    ounces;    mix. 
(See  No.  1160.) 

1160.  Caution   Against   Cyanide   of 
Potassium.     Cyanide  of  potassium  is  highly 
poisonous  when  swallowed,  and  as  the  above 
lotions  are  pleasant-tasted,  they  should  not 
be  left  out  of  the  dressing-case ;  nor  should  a 
larger  quantity  than  that  above  given  be  kept 
in  use  at  once ;  nor,  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances, should  they  be  applied  to  a  large 
surface   at  a  time.     If  not  kept  under  lock 
and  key,  it  is  safest  to  label  them  Poison. 
Kept  with  care,  and  properly  employed,  they 
are  safe  and  useful  lotions. 

1161.  Cherry-Laurel  Lotion,  or  Shav- 
ing Wash.     Take  genuine  distilled  cherry- 
laurel,  2  Imperial  fluid  ounces;  rectified  spirit, 
1  fluid  ounce ;   glycerine,  i  ounce ;    distilled 
water,  7£  fluid  ounces ;  mix.    Used  to  allay 
irritation  of  the  skin,  particularly  after  shav- 
ing,  the  part  being  moistened    with  it  by 
means  of  the  tips  of  the  fingers ;  also  used  as 
a  wash  for  freckles  and  pustules,  and  to  re- 
move excessive  moistness  or  greasiness  of  the 
hair.     Milk  of  bitter- almonds  is  often  substi- 
tuted for  the  glycerine  and  spirit,  but  not  for 
the  hair. 

1162.  Glycerine  and   Borax   Lotion 
for  the  Complexion.    Mix  h  ounce  powdered 
borax,  and  1  ounce  pure   glycerine,  with   1 
quart  camphor- water.     "Wet  the  face  morning 
and  evening  with  this  lotion,  allowing  it  to 
dry  partially,  and  then  rinse  off  with  soft 
•water. 

1163.  Pomade  de  Ninon  de  1'Enclos. 
Take  of  oil  of  almonds,  4  ounces  avoirdupois ; 
hog's  lard,  3  ounces ;   spermaceti,  1  ounce ; 
melt,  add  of  expressed  juice  of  house-leek,  3 
Imperial  fluid  ounces,  and  stir  until  the  mix- 
ture  solidifies   by  cooling.     A  few  drops  of 
esprit  de  rose,  or  of  eau  de  Cologne,  or  lavan- 
de,  may  be  added  to  scent  it  at  will.    Used 
as  a  general  skin-cosmetic;  also  for  wrinkles 
and  freckles.     It  is  said  to  bo  very  softening, 
cooling,  and  refreshing. 

1164.  Pomade  de   Beaut e;    Pomade 
de  Venus.     Take  of  oil  of  almonds,  1  pound; 
spermaceti    (pure),    2    ounces ;    white    wax 
(pure),  li  ounces;  glycerine  (Price's),  1  ounce; 
balsam  of  Peru,  i  ounce;   mix  by  a  gentle 
heat,  and  stir  the  mass  until  it  begins  to  so- 
lidify.    It  is  sold  either  white,  or  tinted  of  a 
delicate  rose  or  green  color.     Used  both  as  a 
hair  and  skin  cosmetic.     It  forms  an  elegant 
substitute  for  ordinary  cold-cream,  lip-salve, 
&c.,  and  is  much  recommended  by  the  makers 
for  improving  the  quality  and  promoting  the 
growth  of  the  hair. 

1165.  Shaving   Paste;    Pate    pour 
Faire  la  Barbe.    Take  of  Maples-soap  (genu- 
ine), 4  ounces;  curd-soap  (air-dried  and  pow- 
dered), 2  ounces;  .honey  (finest),  1  ounce; 
essence  of  ambergris  (or  essence  royale),  oil 
of  cassia,  oil  of  nutmeg,  of  each  10  drops; 
beat  them  to  a  smooth  paste  with  water  or 


eau  de  rose ;  and  put  it  into  covered  pots. 
(See  Nos.  602,  $c.,  and  607.) 

1166.  Shaving  Paste.    Take  of  white 
soft-soap  (see  No.  600),  4  ounces;  honey-soap 
(finest,  sliced),  2  ounces ;  olive-oil,  1  ounce ; 
water,  1  or  2  table-spoonfuls ;   carbonate  of 
soda,  2  drachms;   melt  them  together,  and 
form  a  paste,  as  before,  adding  a  little  proof 
spirit  and  scent,  at  will.     Some  persons  melt 
with  the  soap  about  1  drachm  of  spermaceti. 

1 167.  Colored  Collodion  for  the  Skin. 
1  ounce  collodion,  3  grains  each  pure  annotto 
and  dragon's  blood ;  digest,  with  agitation,  in 
a  stoppered  phial,  for  24  hours ;  and,  if  neces- 
sary, decant  the  clear  portion. 

1168.  Flesh    Colored   Collodion.      2 
ounces  collodion ;  1  drachm  palm  oil ;  alkauet, 
15  grains ;  digest,  <fcc.,  as  in  the  last  receipt. 
This  dries  of  a  good  skin  color ;  but  it  is  not 
so  strong  as  the  product  of  the   preceding 
formula. 

1169.  Glycerinized  Collodion  may  be 
obtained  by  substituting  2  drachms  of  glycer- 
ine for  the  palm  oil  in  the  preceding  receipt. 
This  is  exceedingly  supple,  does  not    crack 
or  scale  off  from  the  skin,  and  accommodates 
itself  to  the  motions  of  the  part. 

1170.  Peruvian,   or  Red  Lip  Salve. 
Take  of  spermaceti  ointment,  k  pound ;  alka- 
net  root,  3  or  4  drachms ;  digest,   at  a  gentle 
heat,  until  the  first  has  acquired  a  rich  deep 
red  color,  then  pass  it  through  a  coarse  strain- 
er.   "Wlien  the  liquid  fat  has  cooled  a  little, 
stir  in  thoroughly  3  drachms  balsam  of  Peru. 
In  a  few  minutes  pour  off'  the  clear  portion 
from  the  dregs  (if  any),  and  add  20  to  30  drops 
oil  of  cloves.     Lastly,  before  it  cools,  pour  it 
into  the  pots  or  boxes.    The  product  forms  the 
finest  and  most  esteemed  lip  salve.    2  or  3 
drops  of  essence  of  ambergris,  or  of  essence 
royale,  improve  and  vary  it. 

1171.  Rose  Lip  Salve.    As  the  above, 
but  using  only  1^  drachms  balsam   of  Peru, 
and  replacing  the  oil  of  cloves  with  a  few 
drops  of  attar  of  roses,  or  sufficient  to  give  the 
mixture  a  marked  odor  of  roses.     Some  ma- 
kers omit  the  balsam  altogether.     If  uncol- 
ored,  it  forms  white  rose  lip  salve.       (See  No. 
1135. 

1 1 72.  White  Lip  Salve.     Take  £  pound 
spermaceti  ointment,  liquify  it  by  the  heat  of 
warm  water,  and  stir  in  -J  drachm  neroli  or 
essence  de  petit-grain  as  before. 

1173.  Glycerine  Lip  Salve.      This  is 
prepared  by  adding  £  to  i  part  of  glycerine  to 
any  one  of  the  above  whilst  in  the  melted 
state,   and   stirring  the  mixture  assiduously 
until  it  begins  to  cool. 

1174.  French  Lip  Salve.     Mix  togeth- 
er 16  ounces  lard,  2  ounces  white  wax,  nitre 
and  alum  in  fine  powder,  of  each,  ^  ounce ; 
alkanet  to  color. 

1175.  German  .Lip  Salve.     Butter  of 
cacao,   -j-  ounce ;  oil  of   almonds,   J    ounce ; 
melt  together  with  a  gentle  heat,  and  add  6 
drops  essence  of  lemon. 

1176.  Gants  Cosmetiques.     These  are 
white  kid  gloves,  which  have  been  turned  in- 
side out,   and  brushed  over  with  a  melted 
compound  of  wax,    oil,    lard,    balsam,    <fcc. 
The  Peruvian  lip  palve  (see  No.  1170)  without 
the  alkanet,  may  answer  the  purpose.     An 
excellent  method  for  softening  the  hands. 


WASHES   FOE    FAILING    HAIE    OB    BALDNESS.  125 

Price's) ;  strongest  eau  de  Cologne,  }  Impe- 
ial  pint;  liquor  of  ammonia  (specific  gravity 
180-882),  1  fluid  drachm;  oil  of  origanum  and 
dl  of  rosemary,  each,  |  fluid  drachm;  tincture  of 
.antharides,  1  fluid  ounce;  briskly  agitate 
hem  together  for  8  or  10  minutes,  then  add  k 
)int  strongest  camphor  water,  and  again  well 
igitate.  A  few  drops  of  essence  of  musk  are 
aften  added.  An  excellent  hair  lotion,  and 
ine  that  supersedes  the  necessity  of  using  oil 
or  pomade. 

1182.  Erasmus  "Wilson's  Hair  Wash. 
Take  8  Imperial  fluid  ounces  strongest  eau  de 
Cologne;    tincture    of   cantharides,     1    fluid 
ounce ;  English  oil    of  lavender,   and  oil  of 
•osemary,  each,  i  fluid  drachm;  mix.    It  is 
mproved  by  the  addition  of  £  fluid  drachm 

oil  of  origanum,  or  by  its  substitution  for  the 
oil  of  lavender;  but  the  omission  of  the  latter 
renders  it  less  odorous. 

1183.  Parisian  Wash   to  Gradually 
Darken  the  Hair.     Take  of  green  sulphate 
of  iron,  15  to  20  grains ;  distilled  verdigris,  5 
or  6  grains ;  good  white  wine,  i  Imperial  pint ; 
perfume  with  eau  de  Cologne  to  suit;  mix.    A 
Favorite    among    the    fashionable    Parisians. 
The  above  will  iron-mould  linen  if  permitted 
to  come  in  contact  with  it. 

1 184.  Wash  to  Gradually  Darken  the 
Hair.     Take    of    sulphate    of  iron    (green, 
crushed),  2  drachms    avoirdupois ;    rectified 
spirit,  1  Imperial  fluid  ounce ;  oil  of  rosemary, 
10  or  12  drops ;  pure  soft  water,  £  pint ;  agi- 
tate them  together  until  solution  and  mixture 
are  complete.    Many  persons  substitute  the 
strongest  old  ale  for  the  water  ordered  above. 
(See  No.  1183.) 

1185.  Wash   to   Darken   the   Hair. 
Take  of  rust  of  iron,  2  drachms  avoirdupois  ; 
old  ale  (strongest),   1   Imperial  pint;  oil  of 
rosemary,  12  to  15  drops ;  put  them  into  a 
bottle,  very  loosely  cork  it,  agitate  it  daily  for 
10  or  12  days,  and  then,   after  repose,  decant 
the  clear  portion  for  use.     (See  No.  1183.) 

1186.  Wash  for  Dry,  Stubborn  Hair. 
The  best  and  most  effective  of  these  consists 
of  H  ounces  avoirdupois  glycerine  dissolved  in 
1  Imperial  pint  of  any  fragrant  distilled  wa- 
ter, as  that  of  roses,  or  orange  or  elder  flow- 
ers ;  15  to  20  grains  salt  of  tartar  (carbonate 
of  potassa)  per  pint,  is  sometimes  added. 

1187.  Wash  to  Cleanse  the  Hair  and 
Scalp.     1  tea-spoonful  powdered  borax ;  1  ta- 
ble-spoonful spirits  of  hartshorn ;  1  quart  soft 
water.    Mix  all  together  and  apply  to    the 
head  with  a  soft  sponge ;  then  rub  the  head 
well  with  a  dry  towel.    Use  once  a  week. 

Another  excellent  method  of  cleansing  the 
hair,  is  to  take  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  rub  it 
in  thoroughly  a  little  at  a  time.  It  will  pro- 
duce a  slight  soapy  lather,  which  should  be 
rinsed  out  with  soft  water.  This  leaves  the 
scalp  perfectly  clean,  and  the  hair  soft  and 
silky. 

1188.  Barbers'    Shampoo   Mixture. 
Shampooing  is  a  term  used  for  cleansing  the 
head  and  hair.     Salts  of  tartar  (carbonate  of 
potassa)  is  the  principal  article  used  by  bar- 
bers for  this  purpose.     Dissolve  1  ounce  salts 
of  tartar  in  1  quart  soft  water;  sprinkle  freely 
on  the  head  and  rub  well  till  a  lather  is  formed ; 
wash  off  with  clean  water.   Bay  rum  can  then 
be  used  if  desired. 

1189.  Shampoo  Liquor.     Salts  ot  tar- 


•\"X  rashes  for  FailingHair 

VV    Or  BaldlleSS.     Liniments  or 
washes  to  make  the  hair  grow,  can  always  be 
employed,  with  greater  or  less  success,  so  long 
as  there  is  any  vitality  left  in  the  hair  follicles 
or  roots.    If,  however,  these  are  entirely  dead 
or  destroyed,  there  is  no  possibility  of  induc- 
ing a  fresh  growth  of  hair.    This  will  be  evi- 
dent from  the  shining  or  glistening  appearance 
the  scalp  assumes  when  the  hair  roots  are  de- 
stroyed.    The  loosening  of  the  hair,  which 
frequently  occurs  to  young  persons,  or  those 
of  the  middle  period  of  life,  will  generally,  if  ne- 
glected, become  real  baldness.    Such  a  state  is 
common  in  women,  and  generally  terminates, 
in  its  mildest  form,  in  excessive  loosening  of 
the  hair.    The  case,  however,  is  not  the  hope- 
less one  which  is  generally  imagined;  and  i 
proper  treatment  be  pursued,  the  hair  will 
grow  afresh,  and  assume  its  pristine  strength. 
A  useful  practice  in  men,  and  those  of  the  op- 
posite sex  whose  hair  is  short,  is  to  immerse 
the  head  in  cold  water  morning  and  night,  dry 
the  hair  thoroughly,  and  then  brush  the  scalp, 
until  a  warm  glow  is  produced.     For  women 
with  long  hair,  this  plan  is  objectionable ;  and 
a  better  one  is  to  brush  the  scalp  until  redness 
and  a  warm   glow  are  produced,   then  dab 
among  the  roots  of  the  hair  one  or  other  of 
the  hair  lotions.    If  the  lotion  produce  smart- 
ing or  tenderness,  the  brush  may  be  laid  aside, 
but  if  no  sensation  is  occasioned,  the  brushing 
should  be  resumed,  and  a  second  application 
of  the  lotion  made.   This  treatment  should  be 
practiced  once  or  twice  a  day,  or  at  intervals 
of  a  few  days,  according  to  the  state  of  the 
scalp  :  namely,  if  tender,  less  ;  if  insensible, 
more  frequently.     When  the  baldness  happens 
in  patches,  the  skin  should  be  well  brushed 
with  a  soft  tooth  brush,  dipped  in  distilled  vin- 
egar morning  and  evening,  or  dipped  in  one  of 
the  washes  given  below.    If  either  of  these  lo- 
tions should  be  found  too  irritating  to  the  skin 
use  them  in  smaller  quantity,  or  diluted,  anc 
less  frequently.     If  they  have  the  effect  o' 
making  the  hair  harsh  and  dry,  this  incon 
venience  may  be  removed  by  the  use  of  oil  or 
pomatum  after  each  application  of  the  lotion 
Pomatums  for  the  growth  of  the  hair  are  very 
inferior  to  the  lotions  in  efficacy.     The  basip 
of  most  hair  invigorators  and  restorers  is  eith 
er  the  tincture  or  the  vinegar  of  cantharides 
the  method  of  preparing  the  latter  ingredien 
is  given  in  the  next  receipt. 

1178.  To  Prepare  Vinegar   of  Can 
tharides.     This  •  preparation  is  not  always 
obtainable  in  the  drug  stores,  and  is  made  by 
macerating,  with  agitation  for  8  days,  2  ounce 
powdered  cantharides  iu  1  pint  acetic  acid 
then  press  and  strain. 

1179.  Wash     for   Restoring   Hair 
Mix  i  ounce  vinegar  of  cantharides  with   1 
ounce  eau  de  Cologne  and  1  ounce  rose  water 
Or,  4  ounce  tincture  of  cantharides,  2  ounce 
eau  de  Cologne,  i  drachm  oil  of  nutmeg,  and 
10  drops  oil  of  lavender. 

1180.  Morfit's  Hair  Toinc.  Scald  black 
tea,  2   ounces,  with  1  gallon  boiling  water 
strain,  and  add  3  ounces  glycerine;  tmctur 
cantharides,  i  ounce ;  and  bay  rum  1  quart 
Mix  well  by  shaking  and  then  perfume. 

1181.  Regenerative  Glycerine  Hai 
Wash.     Take  1  ounce,  avoirdupois,  glycerin 


126 


HAIR    DYES. 


tar,  4  ounces ;  pulverized  borax,  4  ounces ; 
soft  water,  1  gallon.    Mix,  and  bottle  for  use. 

1190.  Fine    Shampoo  Liquor.      This 
excellent  wash  for  the  hair  is  made  by  dissolv- 
ing  5   ounce  carbonate  of   ammonia  and   1 
ounce   borax  in    1  quart  water,   and   adding 
thereto  2    ounces    glycerine,  3  quarts    New 
England  rum,  and  1  quart  bay  rum.   The  hair, 
having  been  moistened  with  this  liquor,  is 
to  be  shampooed  with  the  hands  until  a  slight 
lather  is  formed ;  and   the  latter  being  then 
washed  out  with  clear  water,  leaves  the  head 
clean,  and  the  hair  moist  and  glossy. 

1191.  Hair    Curling    Liquid.      Take 
borax,  2  ounces ;  gum-arabic,  1  drachm;  add 
hot  water  (not  boiling),  1  quart;  stir,  and  as 
soon  as  the  ingredients  are  dissolved  add  3 
table-spoonfuls  strong  spirits  of  camphor.     On 
retiring  to  rest  wet  the  hair  with  the  above 
liquid,  and  roll  it  in  twists  of  paper  as  usual. 

1192.  Curling  Fluid   for   the  Hair. 
Take  1  ounce  avoirdupois  finest  white  gum- 
arabic  ;  good  moist  sugar,  £  ounce ;  pure  hot 
water,   J  Imperial  pint;    dissolve.     To   the 
solution,  when  cold,  add  2  fluid  ounces  recti- 
fied spirit ;  corrosive  sublimate  and  powdered 
sal-ammoniac,  each  6  grains ;  the  last  two 
being  dissolved  in  the  spirit  before  admixture. 
Lastly,  add  enough  water  to  make  the  whole 
measure  1  pint,  with  a  little  esprit  de  rose, 
eau  de  Cologne,  or  eau  de  lavande,  to  scent  it. 
The  hair  is  moistened  with  the  fluid  before 
putting  it  in  papers  or  papillotes.  or  twisting 
it  with  the  fingers.     Shake  before  using. 

1193.  Wild  Rose  Curling  Fluid. 
Take  2  drachms  avoirdupois  dry  salt  of  tartar 
(carbonate  of  potassa) ;  powdered  cochineal, 
•J  drachm ;  liquor  of  ammonia  and  esprit  de 
rose, each  1  fluid  drachm:  glycerine,  J  ounce; 
rectified  spirit,  1£  Imperial  fluid  ounces;  dis- 
tilled water,  18  ounces ;  digest,  with  agitation, 
for  a  week,  and  then  decant  or  filter.  The 
hair  is  moistened  with  it,  and  then  loosely 
adjusted.  The  effect  occurs  as  it  dries. 

1194.  Drying   Washes   for   Moist, 
Lax  Hair.     Take  of  essential  oil  of  almonds. 
1  Imperial  fluid  drachm  ;  oil  of  cassia,  k  fluid 
drachm;  essence  of  rnusk,  i  fluid  drachm;  rec- 
tified spirit,  2i  fluid  ovinces ;  mix,  and  add  grad- 
ually,  with    brisk   agitation,  16   avoirdupois 
ounces  distilled  water  in  which  has  been  dis- 
solved 1  ounce  finest  gum-arabic.    The  hair 
and   scalp  are  slightly  moistened  with  the 
liquid,  and  the  hair  at  once  arranged  without 
wiping,  whilst  still  moist.    Shake  before  using. 

1195.  Rose  Bandoline.    Steep  6  ounces 
gum  tragacanth  for  30  hours  in  1  gallon  rose- 
water,  stirring  frequently;   strain  through  a 
cloth,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  few  days;  then 
strain  again  and  work  into  it  4  drachms  oil  of 
roses.     (See  No.  1154.) 

1196.  Hair  Gloss.    Mix  1  pint  spirit  of 
jasmin,  and  5  drops  aniline,  with  4  pounds 
pure  glycerine. 

1197.  How  to  Dry  a  Lady's  Hair. 
The  lady  should  recline  on  a  lounge  or  a  sola, 
with  her  long  hair  hanging  over  the  end.    A 
pan  containing  2  or  3  bits  of  ignited  charcoal 
is  then  placed  under  it,  and  a  little  powdered 
benzoin  .sprinkled  upon  the  lighted  fuel.     The 
thick  smoke  which  rises  and  is  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  benzole  acid  combined  with 
carbonic  acid,  rapidly  absorbs  the  moisture  in 
the  hair,  which  should  be  previously  well 


wiped  with  towels,  so  as  to  be  as  free  from  wet 
as  possible ;  and  in  a .  few  seconds  the  hair  is 
perfectly  dry,  beautifully  perfumed,  and  ready 
for  the  operation  of  the  brush. 


Hair  DyeS.  The  numerous  pre- 
parations vended,  under  different 
names,  as  hair  dyes,  have  generally  a  basis  of 
lead  or  silver,  and  possess  a  sameness  of  com- 
position which  scarcely  occurs,  to  an  equal 
extent,  in  any  other  class  of  cosmetics.  A 
few,  it  is  true,  contain  bismuth,  crude  pyro- 
gallic  acid,  and  certain  astringent  vegetable 
juices,  as  their  active  ingredients ;  but  these 
are  only  occasionally  met  with  in  the  stores. 

1199.  Walnut  Hair  Dye.    The  simplest 
form  is  the  expressed  juice  of  the  bark  or  shell 
of  green  walnuts.     This  is  the  venerable  hair 
dye  of  Paulus  ^Egineta.    To  preserve  this 
juice,  a  little  rectified  spirit  is  commonly  added 
to  it,  with  a  few  bruised  cloves,  and  the  whole 
digested  together,  with  occasional  agitation, 
for  a  week  or  fortnight,  when  the  clear  por- 
tion is  decanted,  and,  if  necessary,  filtered. 
Sometimes  a  little  common  salt  is  added  with 
the  same  intention.    It  should  be  kept  in  a 
cool  place. 

1200.  Pyrogallic  Hair  Dye.     Take  of 

Erogallic  acid,  i  ounce ;   dissolve  it  in  hot 
itilled   water,    li   ounces;   and,   when  the 
solution  has  cooled,  grachially  add  of  rectified 
spirit,  i  fluid  ounce.     It  may  be  made  a  little 
stronger  or  weaker  at  will. 

1201.  Beautiful   Black   Hair   Dye. 
This  is  composed  of  2  different  liquids.     Take 

6  drachms  avoirdupois  good  recent  sulphuret 
of  potassium ;  distilled  water,  2  Imperial  fluid 
ounces;  liquor  of  potassa,  li  drachm;  agitate 
them  together,  after  repose  decant  the  clear 
solution  into  a  stoppered  phial,  and  label  the 
bottle  either  Solution  No.  1,  or  Tlie  Mordant. 
(Sec  No.  93.)     This  solution  does  not  stain 
the  skin,  and  is  an  effective  and  easily  prepared 
mordant.     In  some  of  the  mordants  sold  in 
the  shops,  the  liquor  of  potassa  is  omitted. 
To  prepare  the  dye,  next  take  3  drachms 
avoirdupois  crystals  of  nitrate  of  silver ;  dis- 
tilled water,  2  Imperial  fluid  ounces ;  dissolve 
in  a  stoppered  phial,  and  mark  it  either  Solu- 
tion No.  2,  or  The  Dye.    This  is  the  average 
strength  of  the  best  silver-dyes  of  the  stores. 
The  strongest,  intended  to  dye  the  hair  black, 
in  a  few  cases  are  made  with  2  drachms  of 
the  nitrate  to  1  fluid  ounce  of  distilled  water; 
weaker  ones,  for  brown,  with  only  1  drachm 
of  the  nitrate  to  the  fluid  ounce.    This  solu- 
tion stains  the  skin  as  well  as  the  hair.    These 
solutions  are  usually  put  up  in  flat  stoppered 
phials,  and  one  of  each,  handsomely  labeled, 
sold  together  in  a  case  under  various  fanciful 
names,  for  which  a  most  extravagant  price  is 
generally  charged.     They  form  the  most  con- 
venient, effective,  and  expeditious  hair  dye 
known,   and  the  one  now  chiefly  sold   and 
used  by  the  large  perfumers  and  hair-dressers. 
Other    nearly   similar  mordants    are  recom- 
mended by  different  good  authorities.  A  good 
formula  is: — Take    of  liquor  of   potassa,  3 
fluid  drachms;  hydrosulphuret  of  ammonia, 

7  fluid  drachms;  distilled  water,  1  ounce;  mix. 
The  method  of  using  these  liquids  is  given 
in  the  following  receipt : 


HAIR    DYES. 


127 


1202.  Method   of    Using   the   Hair 

Dye.  The  hair  (perfectly  clean)  is  first 
thoroughly  wetted  to  the  roots  with  Solution 
No.  1,  previously  diluted  with  4  or  5  times  its 
hulk  of  pure  water,  or  of  the  highest  strength 
that  can  he  used  without  irritating  the  skin, 
care  being  taken  not  to  make  the  hair  too  wet, 
as  that  would  interfere  with  the  next  opera- 
tion. A  small  brush  is  commonly  used  for 
the  purpose,  and  the  action  and  absorption  of 
the  mordant  is  promoted  by  the  free  applica- 
tion of  the  former  for  a  short  time.  After 
the  lapse  of  2  to  5  minutes,  the  hair  is 
thoroughly  but  lightly  moistened  with  the 
dye,  or  Solution  No.  2,  by  means  of  a  small- 
toothed  comb,  or  what  is  more  convenient,  a 
half-worn  tooth  brush,  care  being  taken  to 
touch  the  skin  as  little  as  possible.  Any 
stains  left  on  the  skin  by  accidental  contact 
with  the  dye,  are  now  removed  by  rubbing 
them  with  a  piece  of  rag  or  sponge,  or  the  cor- 
ner of  a  napkin  wetted  with  a  little  of  the 
mordant  previously  diluted  with  water.  After 
the  lapse  of  a  few  minutes,  the  skin  is  sponged 
clean  with  a  little  warm  water,  and  wiped 
dry,  and  the  hair  arranged  with  the  comb,  in 
the  usual  manner.  It  is  better  to  avoid  rub- 
bing or  washing  the  hair  for  a  few  hours. 
Sometimes  the  two  operations  are  reversed, 
and  the  dye  applied  first.  The  color  thus 
produced  is  more  permanent,  but  stains  on 
the  skin  are  less  easily  removed.  The  whole 
process,  if  expertly  managed,  may  be  com- 
pleted in  from  10  to  15  minutes. 

1203.  Hydrosulphate    or    Hydro- 
'  sulphuret  of  Ammonia  (also  called  sul- 

phuret  or  sulphide  of  ammonia),  used  as  a 
mordant  in  dyeing  the  hair  with  either  silver 
or  lead,  may  be  prepared  as  follows : — Take 
of  sulphur,  1  part ;  fresh  dry  hydrate  of  lime, 
2  parts ;  boil  in  water  sufficient  to  dissolve  the 
sulphur ;  filter,  and  to  the  filtered  liquid  add 
for  every  8  parts  of  sulphur  used,  33  parts  of 
sulphate  of  ammonia.  After  agitation  and 
repose,  the  clear  supernatant  liquid  must  be 
decanted,  and  preserved  in  bottles.  The  pro- 
duct contains  traces  of  lime,  which  do  not, 
however,  unfit  it  for  use  in  the  cosmetic  art. 
"When  a  salt  of  antimony  is  used  to  dye  the 
hair,  the  neutral  hydrosulphuret  of  ammonia 
should  be  employed,  as,  if  the  liquid  contain 
more  sulphur  than  is  necessary  to  neutralize 
the  ammonia,  and  it  be  used  in  excess,  the 
color  at  first  produced  is  dissolved  out  and 
washed  away.  But  if  this  excess  be  avoided, 
the  bisulphuret  gives  the  brightest  color. 
The  neutral  hydrosulphuret  is  prepared  by 
saturating  strong  liquor  of  ammonia  with 
sulphuretted  hydrogen,  and  then  adding  a 
second  portion  of  liquor  of  ammonia  equal 
to  that  first  used.  (See  No.  1201.) 

1204.  Bed  Hair  Dye.  An  acidulated 
solution  of  a  salt  of  antimony  (a  solution  of 
potassio-tartrate  of  antimony  or  tartar-emetic 
1  to  16,  acidulated  with  a  little  tartaric,  citric, 
or  acetic  acid,  may  be  used),  followed  by  a 
weak  mordant  of  neutral  hydrosulphuret  of 
ammonia  (see  No.  1203),  or  the  bisulphuret 
(carefully  avoiding  excess)  gives  a  red  turning 
on  the  orange,  which  tones  well  on  light-brown 
hair.  A  solution  of  sulphantimoniate  of  po- 
tassa  (Schlippe's  salt)  with  a  mordant  of 
water  slightly  acidulated  with  sulphuric,  acid, 
gives  a  bright  orange-red  or  golden-red  color. 


1205.  Bed  Hair  Dye.     A  strong  infu- 
sion of  safflowers,  or  a  solution  of  pure  rouge, 
in  a  weak  solution  of  crystallized  carboriate  of 
soda,  gives  a  bright  red  like  henna,  or  a  red- 
dish yellow,  according  to  its  strength,  if  fol- 
lowed, when  dry,  by  a  mordant  of  lemon  juice 
or  vinegar  diluted  with  one-half  to  an  equal 
bulk  of  water. 

1206.  Blonde  or  Flaxen  Hair  Dye. 
Mix  in  10  ounces  distilled  water,  1  ounce  ace- 
tate of  iron,  1  ounce  nitrate  of  silver,  and  2 
ounces  nitrate  of  bismuth ;  moisten  the  hair 
with  this  mixture,  and,  after  an  hour,  touch  it 
with  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  sulphide  of 
potassium  and  distilled  water. 

1207.  Blonde    Hair    Dye.     Another 
method  is  by  moistening  the  hair  with  a  mix- 
ture of  2  ounces  protochloride  of  tin   and  3 
ounces  hydrated  lime.    An  hour  after,  use  the 
potassium  solution  as  in  last  receipt. 

1208.  Golden  Yellow  Hair  Dye.    A 
solution  of  bichloride  of  tin,  sufficiently  diluted, 
followed  by  a  mordant  of  hydrosulphuret  of 
ammonia  (sec  No.  1203),  gives  a  rich  golden 
yellow  tint  to  very  light  hair,  and  a  golden 
brown  to  darker  hair,  owing  to  the  formation 
of  bisulphuret  of  tin. 

1209.  Bich  Yellow  Hair  Dye.     A  so- 
lution of  acetate  or  nitrate  of  lead,  followed 
by  a  mordant  of  yellow  chromate  of  potash, 
gives  a  brilliant  rich  golden  yellow.     If  want- 
ed warmer  or  deeper  toned,  a  few  drops  of  so- 
lution of  diacetate  of  lead  (Goulard's  extract) 
should  be  added  to  the  acetate  solution. 

A  solution  of  pure  amiotto  obtained  by  boil- 
ing it  in  water  slightly  alkalized  with  carbon- 
ate of  soda,  or  with  salt  of  tartar,  gives  a 
golden  yellow  or  flame  yellow,  according  to 
its  strength,  to  very  pale  hair,  and  correspond- 
ing tones  to  darker  hair.  A  previous  mordant 
of  alum-water  deepens  it,  and  a  subsequent 
washing  with  water  soured  with  lemon  juice 
or  vinegar  reddens  it  or  turns  it  on  the 
orange. 

1210.  Brilliant  Yellow  Hair  Dye.     A 
solution  of  a  neutral  salt  of  iron  (sulphate, 
acetate,  or  chloride),  followed  by  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  carbonate  of  soda,  or  salt  of  tartar,  or 
lime  water,  gives  a  warm  yellow  or  nankeen 
color,  which,  when  deep,  turns  on  the  red.  In 
the  latter  case  it  is  apt  to  assume  a  sandy  shade 
on  very  light  hair. 

1211.  Brown  Hair  Dye.     A  ready  way 
to  color  the  hair  brown  is  by  a  solution    of 
permanganate  of  potassa  in  the  proportion  of  1 
troy  ounce  to  1  quart  of  water.     The  hair 
must  be  first  cleansed  by  a  dilute  solution  of 
ammonia,  when  it  is  dried  by  means  of  a  tow- 
el, and  the  solution  of  the  permanganate  ap- 
plied to  the  hair,  but  not  to  the  skin,  as  this 
would  also  be  colored.     It  dyes  the  hair  im- 
mediately, and  the  desired  shade  may  be  ob- 
tained by  applying  more  or  less  of  the  solu- 
tion.    Should  the  hands  become  stained  with 
it,  they  can  be  cleaned  with  a  little  dilute  hy- 
drochloric acid.    This  dye  is  not  permanent, 
but  is  very  easily  renewed  with  a  tooth-brush. 

1212.  Golden    Brown     Hair     Dye. 
Brown  hair  may  have  a  golden  tone  imparted 
to  it  by  the  judicious  application  of  any  of 
the  yellow  dyes  already  noticed.     Light  hair 
may    be  previously    dyed    of  a  warm   light 
brown  before  applying    the    latter.      A    so- 
lution of  sulphate  of  copper  (blue  vitriol) 


128 


DEPILATORIES. 


followed  by  a  solution  of  ferrocyanide  of  po- 
tassium, gives  an  extremely  rich  golden  brown 
or  bronze  brown  to  light  hair,  when  the  pro- 
cess is  expertly  managed. 

1213.  Cautions  about  Applying  Hair 
Dyes.     The  application  of  the  above  dyes, 
so  as  to  produce  appropriate   and   agreeable 
shades,  requires  more  consideration  and  expe- 
rience than  that  of  the  black  dyes.     The  com- 
plexion, and  the  natural  color  of  the  hair  of 
the  person  operated  on,  with  other  attendant 
circumstances,  must  be  carefully  considered 
beforehand,  and  allowed  for.     Unless  all  these 
points  be  attended  to,  the  party  may,  on  look- 
ing  in    the    mirror,    suddenly    find    himself 
strangely  altered  in  appearance,  and  probably 
for  the  worse.     Hair  dyes  of  all  kinds  will 
only  act  effectively  and  satisfactorily  on  per- 
fectly clean  hair.    The  presence  or  the  slight- 
est contamination  of  oily   or  greasy  matter 
will  arrest  or  greatly  lessen  their  action,  and 
render  it  unequal  in  different  parts.     Hence 
the  hair,  in   all  cases,  should  be  first  thor- 
oughly washed  with   warm  soap  and  water, 
then  rinsed  with  tepid    water,    and    lastly, 
wiped  dry  previous  to  their  application.    A 
few  grains  of  soda  or  of  salt  of  tartar  (carbon- 
ate of  potassa)  added  to  the  first  water,  will 
facilitate  its  detergent  action 

1214.  To   Bleach    Hair.     It  has  been 
found  in  the  case  of  bleaching  hair  that  gaseous 
chlorine  is  the  most  effectual.  The  hair  should 
be  cleaned  for  this  purpose  by  a  warm  solution 
of  soda,  and  washed  afterwards  with  water. 
While  moist  it  is  put  into  a  jar  and  chlorine 
gas  introduced,  until  the  air  in  the  jar  looks 
greenish.    Allow  it  to  stand  for  24  hours,  and 
if  necessary  repeat  the  operation.    The  em- 
ployment of  binoxide  of  hydrogen  has  been 
often  recommended  for  this  purpose,  it  being 
in  every  way  superior  to  the  other  agents,  but 
it  has  the  drawback  of  being  difficult  to  pre- 
pare. 

1215.  Lotions  to  Change  the  Color  of 
the  Hair.      A  number  of  lotions  are  exten- 
sively advertised,  and  sold  under  the  name  of 
"  Hair     Restorers,"     "  Hair    Rejuvenators," 
"  Life  for  the  Hair,"  <fcc.,  which  purport  to  re- 
store the  color  and  improve  the  growth  of  the 
hair.    The  active  agent  in  all  these  prepara- 
tions is  lead,  combined  with  sulphur,  and  this, 
by  frequent  application,  darkens  the  hair.     In 
the  majority  of  cases,  probably,  a  moderate 
use  of  such  a  lotion  would  be  unattended 
with  mischief;  but  it  is  worth  remembering 
that  palsy  has  been  known  to  be  produced  by 
the  long  continued  use  of  cosmetics  contain- 
ing lead.     The  following  receipts  show  how 
these  restorers  are  made  : 

1216.  Hair  Coloring  which  is  not  a 
Dye.     Take  1  drachm  lac  sulphur ;  sugar  of 
lead,  2  scruples ;  glycerine,  2  ounces ;  distilled 
water,  6  ounces ;  mix,  and  perfume  to  fancy. 
Or,   lac  sulphur  and  sugar  of  lead,   each    1 
drachm;     sulphate    of    iron    (copperas),    10 
grains;  glycerine,  2  ounces;  water,  6  ounces; 
mix  and  perfume.     Shake  well  before  using, 
and  apply  with  a  sponge  every  other  day  until 
a  change  of  color  is  obtained,  after  which  one 
application  each  week  will  be  sufficient.    The 
hair  must  be  cleansed  of  all  greasy  matter  be- 
fore using  the  above.     (See  No.  1213.) 

1217.  Magic  Hair  Colorer  and  Restor- 
er.    Take  of  sugar  of  lead,  ^  ounce ;  lac  sul- 


phur, 3  drachms;  aqua  ammonia,  1£  qunces; 
glycerine,  6  ounces ;  water  sufficient  to  fill  a 
pint  bottle;  mix,  and  perfume  to  suit  the 
fancy.  Or,  take  of  lac  sulphur  and  sugar  of 
lead,  each  1  drachm ;  tinctures  of  capsicum, 
and  cantharides,  each  i  ounce ;  glycerine,  2 
ounces;  water,  5  ounces.  Apply  as  above. 
Do  not  employ  any  greasy  oils  in  perfuming 
these  preparations.  (See  No.  1213.) 

1218.  Hair  Restorative.  Takeldrachni 
milk  of  sulphur,  1  drachm  acetate  of  lead,  2 
drachms  muriate  of  soda,  2  fluid  ounces  gly- 
cerine, 8  fluid  ounces  bay  rum,  4  fluid  ounces 
Jamaica  rum,  and  1  pint  water.  Mix  togeth- 
er, and  shake  before  using. 


P\epilatOrieS.  Preparations  for 
JL-/  removing  superfluous  hair  from  the 
skin.  The  constituents  of  most  of  these  are 
lime,  and  the  tersulphuret  of  arsenic  (orpi- 
ment),  but  the  use  of  orpiment  is  dangerous, 
especially  in  case  of  any  abrasion  of  the  skin. 
The  safest  depilatory  is  a  strong  solution  of 
sulphuret  of  barium  made  into  a  paste  with 
powdered  starch.  It  should  be  applied  im- 
mediately after  it  is  mixed,  and  allowed  to  re- 
main there  for  5  or  10  minutes.  (See  Nos. 
1223  to  1225.) 

1220.  Martin's  Depilatory.     Apply  a 
light  coating  of  sulphuretted  sulphide  of  cal- 
cium to  the  part  from  which  the  hair  is  to  be 
removed ;  after  10  minutes  it  may  be  washed 
off,  and  the  skin  will  be  clean. 

1221.  Boudet's  Depilatory.      Mix  3 
parts  hydro-sulphuret  of  sodium  (crystallized), 
10  parts  finely  powdered  quicklime,  and  11 
parts  starch.     It  should  not  be  applied  longer 
than  2  to  4  minutes.     Very  effective"   and 
safe. 

1222.  Chinese   Depilatory.      Mix   8 
ounces  quicklime,  1  ounce  dry  pearlash,  and 
1  ounce  sulphuret  of  potassium ;  apply  as  in 
the  last  receipt. 

1223.  To  Apply  a  Depilatory  as  a 
Paste.      In  use,  the  chemical  depilatories 
(see  Nos.  1219  to  1222)  which  are  in  the  state 
of  powder,  are  made  into  a  paste  with  warm 
water,  and  immediately  applied  to  the  part, 
previously  shaved  close,  a  little  starch  being 
generally  added  to  those  which  do  not  con- 
tain it,  in  order  to  render  the  paste  more 
manageable.    Sometimes  soap -lye  is  used,  in- 
stead of  water,  to  form  the  paste.     A  wooden 
or  bone  knife  should  be  used  in  preparing  this 
paste. 

1224.  To  Apply  a  Depilatory  as  a 
Plaster.     Another  mode  of  application  is  to 
make  the  paste  rather  thick,  spread  it  on  a 
piece  of  strong  paper,   and  apply  it  like  a 
plaster.    In  from  5  to  10  or  15  minutes,  or 
sooner  if  much  smarting  occurs,  the  paste 
should  be  washed  off  with  warm  water,  and  a 
little  cold  cream  or  any  simple  ointment  ap- 
plied to  the  part.     The'  liquid  depilatories  are 
usually  thickened  with  a  little  starch  powder, 
before  application.     (See  Nos.  1219  to  1222.) 

1225.  Cautions     About     Applying 
Depilatories.     Both  classes  (see  Nos.  1223 
and  1224)  require  caution  in  their  use.     They 
should  be  applied  to  only  a  small  surface  at  a 
time,  and  great  care  should  be  taken  to  pre- 


SCENTED    OILS;    PERFUMED    OILS. 


129 


vent  them  extending  to  the  adjacent  parts. 
They  lose  their  properties  unless  kept  entirely 
excluded  from  the  air;  and  no  liquid  must  he 
added  to  the  dry  ones  until  just  before  their 
application,  and  then  no  more  should  he 
mixed  than  is  required  for  immediate  use. 


Scented  Oils;  Perfumed 
Oils.  The  fixed  oil  that  usually 
forms  the  basis  of  the  simple  scented  oils  of 
the  perfumer,  is  that  of.  almonds,  ben,  or 
olives ;  but  other  bland  vegetable  oils  are 
occasionally  used,  particularly  for  inferior 
qualities.  In  Prance,  three  different  modes 
are  adopted  for  imparting  fragrance  to  these 
oils. 

1227.  Perfumed  Oils  by  the  Addi- 
tion of  Essential  Oils,  or  Alcoholic  Es- 
sences.   By  the  simple  addition  of  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  the  essential  oil  of  the  plant,  or  of 
the  concentrated    alcoholic  essence    of  the 
substance,  if  it  does  not  furnish  an  oil.  fol- 
lowed by  agitation;    the  whole  being  then 
allowed  to  repose  for  a  few  days,  and,  if  any 
sediment  falls  (which  should  not  be  the  case 
if  the  ingredients  are  pure),  the  clear  portion 
decanted  or  poured  off  into  another  bottle. 
In  the  case  of  alcoholic  essences,  it  is  better 
that  the  fixed  oil  should  be  gently  warmed 
by  placing  the  bottle  or  vessel  (a  well-tinned 
bottle  or  can  with  a  suitable  mouth  and  neck 
for  corking,  is  the  best  and  most  convenient 
for  the  purpose,)  for  a  short  time  in  a  water- 
bath,   before   adding  them,  and    then,   after 
tightly  and  firmly  securing  with  a  cork,  to 
agitate  it  until  cold  or  nearly  so.    In  general, 
1  to  1£  drachms  of  a  pure  essential  oil,  or  3  to 
4  fluid  drachms  of  a  concentrated  essence,  is 
sufficient  to  render  1  pint  of  fixed  oil  agreea- 
bly fragrant;  but  in  some  cases,  and  for  the 
best  quality,  an  additional  £  drachm,  or  more, 
of  the  one,  and  1  to  2  fluid  drachms  of  the 
other,  will  be  required,     i  drachm  pure  attar 
of  roses,  owing  to  the  very  powerful  character 
of  its  odor,  is  sufficient  for  the  purpose.     Oils 
of  ambergris,  bergamot,   cassia,    cinnamon, 
cloves,  lavender,  lemons,  millefleurs,  musk, 
neroli,    nutmeg,   orange-flowers,   roses,    and 
all  other    similar  scented  oils,  may  be  thus 
made.    The  above  are  chiefly  employed  as 
hair  cosmetics,  with,  in  most  cases,  trifling 
additions  of  other  essential  oils  or  essences, 
to  modify  and  improve  their  odor.     Some  of 
them  are  also  colored.     (Cooley.) 

1228.  Perfumed  Oils    by   Infusion. 
"Dry  substances,  after  being  reduced  to  coarse 
powder  (but  free  from  dust),  or  sliced  very 
small ;  flowers  or  petals,  after  being  carefully 
selected,   picked  from  the  stems  and  other 
scentless  portions,  and  pulled  to  pieces ;  and 
soft,    unctuous,    and    resinous    matters,    as 
ambergris,  rnusk,  civet,  resins,  and  balsams, 
after. being  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  a  little  of 
the  oil  (either  with  or  without  the  addition  of 
about  twice  or  thrice  their  weight  of  clean 
siliceous  sand  or  powdered  glass,  to  facilitate 
the  reduction),  are  digested  in  the  fixed  oil, 
for  an  hour  or  two,  in  a  covered  vessel,  at 
a  gentle  heat  obtained  bj  means  of  a  water- 
bath,  frequent  stirring  or  agitation  being  em- 
ployed all    the    time.      The   vessel  is  then 
removed  from  the  bath,  and  set  aside  (for 


flowers)  until  the  next  day,  or  (for  other  sub- 
stances) for  5  to  7  days,  to  settle,  when  the 
clear  portion  is  carefully  decanted  into  a  clean 
bottle,  or  bottles.  W"ith  ambergris,  civet, 
musk,  and  vanilla,  the  digestion,  with  fre- 
quent agitation,  is  usually  continued  for  at 
least  3  weeks ;  and  exposure  of  the  vessel  in 
the  sun,  or  in  some  equally  -warm  situation,  is 
generally  substituted  for  the  heat  of  a  water- 
bath.  When  flowers  are  employed,  the  free 
oil  is  allowed  to  drain  off,  and  the  remainder 
is  obtained  by  the  action  of  a  press.  The  two 
portions  being  mixed,  fresh  flowers  are  added 
to  the  oil,  and  the  whole  process  is  repeated ; 
and  this  again,  with  fresh  flowers,  5  or  6 
times,  or  oftener,  until  the  oil  is  sufficiently 
fragrant."  (Coolcy.)  For  the  extraction  of 
Derfume  from  rose  leaves,  from  scented  woods, 
from  bark,  from  gums,  there  appears  to  be 
nothing  better  than  glycerine,  and  this  use  of 
it  is  constantly  on  the  increase,  as  the  most 
delicate  odors  are  perfectly  preserved  in  it. 

1229.  Perfumed  Oils  by  Enfleurage. 
A  series  of  shallow  iron  frames,  adapted  for 
piling  on  each  other,  and  fitting  close  together, 
being  provided,  a  piece  of  white,  spongy  cot- 
ton-cloth is  stretched  upon  each,  and  is  then 
freely  moistened  with  oil  of  almonds,  olives, 
or  ben.     On  the  cloth  is  next  laid  a  thin  layer 
of  the  fresh-plucked  flowers,  and  each  frame, 
as  thus  covered,  is  placed  on  the  preceding 
one,  until  a  compact  pile  of  them  is  raised. 
In  24  to  30  hours  the  flowers  are  replaced  by 
fresh  ones ;  and  this  is  repeated  every  day,  or 
every  other  day,  until  7  or  8  different  lots  of 
flowers  have  been  consumed,  or  the  oil  has 
become  sufficiently  charged  with  their  odor. 
The  cotton-cloths  are  then  carefully  collected 
and  submitted  to  powerful  pressure,  and  the 
expressed  oil  which  flows  from  them  is  placed 
aside  in  corked  bottles  or  jars,  to  settle.  After 
some  time  it  becomes  perfectly  clear,  and  is 
then  ready  to  be  decanted  into  other  bottles 
for  store  or  sale.     Sometimes  trays  with  per- 
forated bottoms,  on  which  are  laid  thin  layers 
of  cotton -wool  slightly  moistened  with  the 
oil,  are  substituted  for  the  frames  and  cotton- 
cloth  above  referred  to.      Sometimes,  also, 
sheep's  wool  or  cotton  wool  impregnated  with 
oil,  is  stratified  with  flowers  in  a  large  earthen 
vessel,  and  this,  after  being  closely  covered 
up,  is  kept  for  10  or  12  hours  gently  heated 
by  means  of  a  water-bath.     The  next  day  the 
old  flowers  are  replaced  by  fresh  ones,  and 
the  whole  process  repeated  again  and  again,  as 
often  as  necessary.    The  oil  is  finally  obtained 
by  pressure  from  the  wool,  as  before.    "When 
only  a  moderate  degree  of  aroma  is  required 
in  the  oil,  the  flowers  may  be  crushed  in  a 
mortar  or  a  mill,  with  one-half  their  weight 
of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  and  the  next  day, 
or  the  second    day  after,  according  to  the 
weather,  the  mass,  after  being  slightly  wanned, 
may  be  submitted  to  the  press.    After  about 
a  week's  repose,  the  upper  portion,  which  is 
the  perfumed  oil,  may  be  decanted,  and,  if 
necessary,  filtered.    This  plan  is  occasionally 
adopted  in  this  country  for  "Oil  of  Roses," 
and  a  few  other  flowers,  intended  for  the 
hair.     ( Cooley. ) 

1230.  To   Perfume  Hair   Oils.     The 
mixtures  of  essential  oils,  and  other  odorous 
substances,  used  in   the  preparation  of  the 
perfumed  spirits,  will  furnish  examples  which 


ISO 


SCENTED    OILS;    PERFUMED    OILS. 


may  be  followed  in  scenting  hair  oils  and  po- 
mades, and  from  these  can  be  framed  other 
combinations  as  the  fancy  may  suggest.  (See 
Nos.  1243  and  1261.) 

1231.  Colorless  Hair  Oils.     In  prepar- 
ing colorless  or    white    hair   oils,   blanched 
fixed  oil,  and  new  and  colorless,  or  nearly 
colorless,  essential  oils  and  essences  only  are 
employed. 

1232.  Colored  Hair  Oils.     The  colored 
oila  derive  their  hues  from  the  fixed  oil  of 
which  they  are  prepared  being  tinged  before 
the  scent  is  added.     In  each  case  the  colored 
oil  should  be  allowed  to  clarify  itself  by  re- 
pose in  a  closed  vessel  and  a  warm  situation 
(60  to  70°  Pahr.)  before  being  decanted  for 
further  treatment.     It  is  also  better  to  pass  it 
through  a  piece  of  coarse  muslin,  to  remove 
floating  particles ;  and,  in  some  cases,  it  may 
be  necessary  to  filter  it,  to  render  it  quite 
brilliant — a  quality  which  it  should  always 
possess. 

1233.  To   Color   Hair   Oil   Bed    or 
Crimson.     A  red  and  crimson  tinge  may  be 
given  by  steeping,  for  2  or  3  days,  a  little 
alkanet-root  (say  2  or  3  drachms)  in  each  pint 
of  the  oil.     By  warming  the  oil,  the  time  re- 
quired for  obtaining  the  desired  tinge  may  be 
reduced  to  1  or  2  hours. 

1234.  To  Color  Hair  Oil  Yellow  or 
Orange.     A  yellow  and  orange  tinge  may  be 
given  by  rubbing  up  a  little  annotto  with  a 
portion  of  the  oil  whilst  hot,  and  then  adding 
it  to  the  rest  at  a  gentle  heat ;  or,  more  simply, 
by  adding  a  little  bright  palm  oil  to  it  whilst 
warm. 

1235.  To  Color  Hair  Oils  Green.    A 
green  tinge  may  be  given  by  steeping  a  little 
green  parsley,  or  spinach-leaves,  or  lavender, 
in  the  oil  for  a  few  days,  in  the  cold ;  or  by 
dissolving  2  or  3  drachms  of  gum-guaiacum  in 
each  pint  of  it,  by  the  aid  of  heat. 

1236.  Oil  of  Musk ;   or  Huile  Mus- 
quee.     Take  2  avoirdupois  drachms  grain- 
musk;    ambergris,  1  drachm;    oil  (almond, 
olive,  or  ben),  1  Imperial  pint;  proceed  by 
infusion.    (See  No.  1228.)    Some  makers  add 
about  20  or  30  drops  oil  of  lavender  (English), 

10  drops  oil  of  cloves,  and  5  or  6  drops  oil  of 
cassia,  with  the  musk.     A  second  quality  is 
made  by  working  over  the  same  ingredients 
with  J  pint  of  fresh  oil. 

1237.  Oil  of  Ambergris  and  Musk; 
or  Hujle  Royale.     Take  4  drachms  amber- 
gris ;  grain-musk,  1  drachm ;  oil  of  lavender 
(English),  20  drops ;  oil  of  cassia,  oil  of  cloves, 

011  of  nutmeg,  and  neroli,  each  10  drops;  and 
proceed  by  infusion.     (See  No.  1228.)    Yery 
fine.    The  ingredients  may  be  worked  over  a 
second  time,  as  with  oil  of  musk. 

1238.  Oil  of  Storax.      Take  10  to  12 
drachms  pure  liquid  storax ;  oil  of  nutmeg, 

12  to  15  drops ;  ambergris,  5  or  6  grains ;  oil 
(almond,  olive,  or  ben),  1  Imperial  pint;  by 
infusion.    (See  No.  1228.)    Highly  fragrant. 
Used  in  the  same  way  as  oil  of  balsam  of  Peru. 

1239.  Oil  of  Vanilla;   or  Huile  a  la 
Vanille.    Take  2k  ounces  avoirdupois  finest 
vanilla  in  powder ;  oil  of  bergamot,  1  Imperial 
fluid  drachm ;  attar  of  roses,  15  drops ;  amber- 
gris, 3  grains;  oil  (almond  or  olive),  14  pints; 
by  infusion.     (See  No.  1228.)    Yery  fragrant. 
For  the  simple  oil,  the  bergamot,  attar,  and 
ambergris,  are  omitted. 


1 240.  Oil  of  Ambergris ;  Huile  d' Am- 
bergris, or  Huile  a  PAmbre.    Take  of  finest 
ambergris,  4  to  6  drachms  avoirdupois ;  and 
oil  (almond,  olive,  or  ben),  1  Imperial  pint; 
and  proceed  by  infusion.    (See  No.  1228.)    A 
second  quality  is  made  by  working  the  resid- 
uum with  £  pint  of  fresh  oil. 

1241.  Oil  of  Balsam  of  Peru.    Take  h 
avoirdupois  ounce  pure  balsam  of  Peru,  and 
hot  oil  of  almonds,  4  Imperial  pint;  agitate 
them  together  until  perfectly  mixed,  and  for 
a  short  time  afterwards ;  then  set  the  bottle 
aside,  and  in  a  few  days  decant  the  clear  por- 
tion.    Oil  of  nutmeg,  20  or  30  drops,  is  com- 
monly added  to  increase  its  action.     Used  to 
scent  other  oils  and  fats ;  also,  by  itself,  to 
improve  and  restore  the  hair,  for  which  it  is 
in  high  repute  among  many  persons. 

1242.  Oil  of  Benzoin.     Take  finest  gum 
benzoin,  1  outce  avoirdupois,  and  oil  of  al- 
monds, 1  Imperial  pint ;  and  proceed  by  infu- 
sion.    (See  No.  1228.)    Used  to  convey  the 
scent  of  benzoin  to  other  oils;   and  also  to 
prevent  rapcidity. 

1243.  Mixed  Essential  Oils,  or  Mixed 
Scents.     The  following  are  used  as  extem- 
poraneous acent  for  smelling  bottles,  hair  oil, 
pomades,  esprits,  <fcc.;  for  which  purpose  one 
or  other  of  them  is  commonly  kept  at  hand 
by  the  druggists.     1  ounce  of  any  one  of 
them,  added  to  a  pint  of  rectified  spirit,  pro- 
duces an  agreeable  esprit  or  perfume  for  per- 
sonal use.     Oil  of  bergamot  and  lemon,  of 
each  1  ounce;  oil  of  lavender  (English)  and 
pimento,  of  each  J  ounce ;  mix.     Or :  To  the 
last  add  of  oil  of  orange  peel,  2  drachms ;  oil  of 
cloves,  1  drachm ;  mix.     Or :  Take  oil  of  ber- 
gamot, lemon    and  orange  peel,  of  each  3 
drachms ;  essence  de  petit-grain,  2  drachms ; 
oil  of  cloves,   li   drachms;    oil  of  cassia,   1 
drachm ;  mix. 

1244.  French  Huiles  or  Hair   Oils. 
The  huile  antique  au  jasmin,  aux  fleurs  d'or- 
anges,  a  la  rose,  a  la  tuberose,  a  la  violette, 
<fec.,  &c.,  of  the  French  perfumers,  are  simply 
one  or  other  of  the  bland  fixed  oils,  (almonds, 
olives,  or  ben),  strongly  scented  with  the  oils 
(huiles)  of  the  respective  flowers,  or  some 
other  preparation  of  them.     (See  Nos.  1236  to 
1242.) 

1245.  Marrow  Oil.     Take  clarified  beef- 
marrow.  1^  ounces  avoirdupois;  oil  of  almonds, 
k  Imperial  pint;   melt  them  together,   and 
scent  the  mixture  at  will.    Held  in  high  re- 
pute as  a  hair  oil,  by  many.    That  of  the 
small  stores  has  seldom  any  marrow  in  it,  but 
lard  instead.     The  appropriate  scents  are  the 
same  as   for  bear's  grease.    It  is  generally 
tinged  slightly  yellow  by  means  of  a  little 
palm-oil  or  annotto. 

1246.  Tonquin  Pomade  or  Oil.     Mac- 
erate for  from  12  to  24  hours,  $  pound  tonquin 
beans  in  4  pounds  melted  fat  or  warm  oil,  and 
strain  through  fine  muslin;   when  cold  the 
grease  will  be  found  to  have  acquired  a  fine 
odor  of  the  beans. 

1247.  Vanilla  Pomade  or  Oil.     This 
is  prepared  in  the  same  way  as  for  tonquin 
beans,   by  substituting  J  pound  of  vanilla 
beans. 

1248.  Macassar  Oil.     Oil  of  ben,    1 
gallon,  oil  of  noisette,  i  gallon ;  strong  alco- 
hol, 1  quart ;  attar  of  rose,  2  drachms ;  attar 
of  bergamot,  3  ounces ;  attar  of  Portugal,  2 


POMATUMS    OR    POMADES. 


131 


ounces ;  and  tincture  of  musk,  3  ounces ;  mix 
together,  digest  with  alkanet  root  (for  color), 
in  a  stoppered  bottle  for  a  week,  then  strain 
and  bottle. 

1249.  Cheap    Hair    Oils.      These    are 
made  of  fixed  oils  (usually  almond   or  olive 
oil),    gradually  receding  in  quality,  scented 
with  less  attar,  the  deficiency  being  made  up 
by  a  mixture  of  oil  of  rhodium,  rosemary,  and 
bergamot.    A  few  drops  of  neroli,  or  oil  of 
rose  geranium,   or  a  little  huile  au  jasmin, 
with  or  without  2  or  3  drops  oil  of  musk^  or 
huile  royale,   are  occasionally  added  to  im- 
prove and  slightly  modify  the  odor. 

1250.  Tricopherous.     Castor  oil,  \  pint; 
95  percent,  alcohol,  spint;  tincture  canthar- 
ides, £  ounce ;   oil  of  bergamot,  2  drachms. 
Color  a  pale  pink  with  alkanet  root.    (See  No. 
1233.) 

1251.  Oil    for   Incipient   Baldness. 
The  commonest,  and  perhaps  the  most  con- 
venient and  easily  prepared  cosmetic  of  the 
kind,  is  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  tincture 
of  cantharides  and  olive  oil  or  almond  oil, 
simply  agitated  together,  and   shaken  before 
use.    A  more  effective  and  cleanly  liquid  pre- 
paration may  be  made  by   substituting  proof 
spirit  (or  good  rum)  for  the  oil,  and  adding  1 
to  li  drachms  of  glycerine  (Price's)  to  each 
ounce  of  the  mixture,  a  corresponding  increase 
being  made  in  the  proportion  of  the  tincture, 
to  compensate  for  this  addition.      This  prepa- 
ration imparts  as  much  moisture  and  gloss  to 
the  hair  as  the  former  one,  and  is  much  more 
genial  in  its  action  on  the  scalp.    Distilled 
water,  or  rosemary  water,  is  often  substituted 
for  proof  spirit.    A  still  more  active  prepara- 
tion is  made  of  tincture  of  cantharides  and 
glycerine  only. 


Pomatums  or  Pomades. 
Any  scented  greasy  matter  of  appropri- 
ate consistence,  or  any  mixture  of  fats,  used, 
or  intended  to  be  used,  in  dressing  the  hair, 
now  commonly  passes  under  the  name  of  po- 
inatnm  or  pomade.  The  usual  basis  of  ordi- 
nary pomatum  or  pomade  for  use  in  this  cli- 
mate, is  either  a  mixture  of  2  parts  of  hog's 
lard  and  1  part  of  beef  suet ;  or  of  5  parts  of 
lard  and  2  parts  of  mutton  suet ;  the  fats  be- 
ing both  previously  carefully  rendered  or  pre- 
pared, and  then  melted  together  by  a  gentle 
neat.  The  latter  mixture  is  chiefly  used  for 
white  pomatum  or  pomade.  Essential  oil,  and 
other  volatile  matter  used  to  scent  this  fat, 
should  be  added  to  it  and  stirred  up  with  it, 
after  it  has  somewhat  cooled,  but  before  it  be- 
gins to  solidify,  in  order  to  prevent  loss.  The 
unscented  mixed  fats  form  the  plain  pomade  or 
pomatum  of  the  perfumers.  (Coolci/.) 

1253.  To  Purify  Suet  or  Lard  for 
Making  Pomades.  Suet  or  lard  form  the 
body  of  pomades  ;  and  that  their  quality  may 
be  unexceptionable,  the  rendered  suet  must  be 
subjected  to  a  purifying  process,  in  order  to  fit 
it  for  use  in  perfumery.  This  is  done  by  melt- 
ing the  rendered  fat  by  the  heat  of  a  saline 
or  steam  bath  in  an  enameled  iron  vessel, 
and  adding  to  it,  gradually,  1  ounce  powdered 
alum  and  2  ounces  chloride  of  sodium  (pure 
table  salt)  to  every  fifty  pounds  of  fat  under 
treatment.  •  The  heat  is  to  be  continued  above 


212°  Fahr.,  until  scum  ceases  to  rise  to  the 
surface,  which  contains  all  the  organic  and 
other  impurities,  and  must  be  skimmed  off  as 
fast  as  it  is  formed.  The  fat  is  then  strained 
through  bolting  cloth  into  clean  stone  jars,  and 
left  to  cool,  it  is  next  to  be  spread  upon  a 
circular  stone  slab,  the  top  surface  of  which  is 
slanting  from  the  centre,  (that  is,  slightly  coni- 
cal in  form),  and  provided  with  a  stone  roller 
which  is  made  to  revolve  by  suitable  gearing. 
As  the  roller,  or  muller,  revolves  over  the  fat, 
cold  water  is  allowed  to  trickle  upon  it,  and 
this  dissolves  the  saline  impurities  remaining  in 
the  fat.  After  this  the  fat  is  heated  until  all 
water  is  expelled  by  evaporation.  "When  cold, 
the  fat  will  be  found  to  be  very  white  and 
pure,  and  in  a  condition  to  preserve  its  sweet- 
ness, and  suitable  for  use  with  the  most  deli- 
cate odors. 

1254.  'Method    of    Purifying    Fat. 
Take  1  cwt.  of  perfectly  fresh  grease,  either  of 
lard  or  beef  suet ;   cut  the  grease  into  small 
pieces,  and  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar ;  when 
it  is  well  crushed,  wash  it  with  water  repeat- 
edly, until,  in  fact,  the  water  is  as  clear  after 
withdrawing  the  grease  as  before  it  was  put 
in.    The  grease  has  now  to  be  melted  over  a 
slow  fire,  adding  thereto  about  3  ounces  crys- 
tallized alum  in  powder,   and  a  handful  of 
common  salt ;  now  let  the  grease  boil,  but  al- 
low it  to  bubble  for  a  few  seconds  only ;  then 
strain  the  grease  through  fine  linen  into  a 
deep  pan,  and  allow  it  to  stand,  to  clear  ilself 
from  all  impurities,  for  about  2  hours.    The 
clear  grease  is  then  again  to  be  put  into  the 
pan,  over  a  bright  fire,  adding  thereto  about  3 
or  4  quarts  rose  water,  and  about  5  ounces  pow- 
dered gum  benzoin ;  it  is  allowed  to  boil  gent- 
ly, and  all  scum  that  rises  is  to  be  removed, 
until  it  ceases  to  be  produced;    finally  the 
grease  is  put  into  deep  pans,  and  when  cold 
taken  carefully  off  the  sedimentary  water ;  it 
is  then  fit  for  use,  and  may  be  kept  for  an  in- 
definite period,   without  change    or  turning 
rancid.     It  will  be  observed  that  the  principal 
feature  in  this  process  is  the  use  of  benzoin. 

1255.  To  Perfume   Melted  Fat.    In 
adding  aromatics  or  perfumes  to  the  melted 
fat,  its  temperature  must  be  adapted  to  their 
relative  degree  of  volatility.     Essential  oils 
and  alcoholic  essences,  particularly  the  more 
delicate  ones,  are  added  at  the  lowest  possible 
temperature  compatible    with    their   perfect 
union  with  the  fat ;  whilst  substances  like  the 
aromatic  resins  and  balsams  are  better  added 
to  the  fat  more  fully  liquefied,   aiding  their 
solution  and  union  by  stirring  the  mass  with 
a  wooden,  bone,  or  porcelain  knife  or  spatula. 
"With  the  latter,  after  the  union  is  complete, 
it  is  often  necessary  to  allow  the  mixture  to 
repose  for  a  short  time,   and  to  pour  it  off 
from  the  dregs   before  adding    the  essential 
oils  and  essences,  and  concluding  the  work. 
(See  No.  1261.) 

1256.  To  Finish  off  Pomades.     In  fin- 
ishing off  pomades  two  methods  are  adopted, 
according  to  the  appearance  it  is  desired  they 
should  have.      Those  which  it   is  intended 
should  be  opaque  and  white,  should  be  stirred 
or  beaten  assiduously  with  a  knife  or  spatula 
until  the  fat  begins  to  concrete,  or  has  acquir- 
ed considerable  consistence,  before  potting  it ; 
but  when  it  is  desired  that  they  should  be  trans- 
parent or  crystalline,  the  clear  liquid  mass  is 


132 


POMATUMS    OS   POMADES. 


poured  into  the  pots  or  bottles,  previously 
slightly  warmed,  and  the  whole  is  allowed  to 
cool  very  slowly,  without  being  disturbed,  in  a 
situation  free  from  draughts  of  cold  air.  For 
the  ordinary  pomades  a  mixture  of  lard  and 
suet  is  generally  employed;  for  the  harder  ones, 
suet  chiefly  or  wholly ;  or  a  little  pure  white 
wax  or  beeswax  (according  to  the  intended 
color  of  the  product)  is  melted  with  the  fat  to 
increase  its  solidity.  For  white  pomades, 
mutton  suet  is  employed ;  for  others,  in  gen- 
eral, beef  suet.  In  those  which  are  artificial- 
ly colored,  either  may  be  used ;  but  beef  suet 
is  preferable  when  either  clearness  or  a  crystal- 
line appearance  is  desired.  (Cooley.) 

1257.  Coloring  Matters  for  Fat.    It 
is  often  desirable,  as  a  matter  of  taste,  to  tinge 
the  prepared  fat  used  for  perfumery.    The 
process  given  below  is  applicable  to  all  fats, 
whether  solid  or  fluid.     Color  may  also  be 
imparted  by  the  addition  of  pigments  in  pow- 
der, but  these  are  objectionable  for  pomade, 
hair  oil,  and  creams.     The  coloring  matter 
should  be  dissolved  or  steeped  in  the  melting 
fat  before  scenting  it.     (See  No.  1232.) 

1258.  To  Color  Fat  Pink.     Bruise  4 
ounces  alkanet  root  for  every  pound  of  fat 
used;  melt  the  fat  over  a  water-bath,  add  the 
bruised  alkanet,  and  digest  for  several  hours. 
Strain  the  mixture  through  bolting  cloth,  and 
allow  the  clear  fluid  fat  to  cool.    This  fat, 
now  colored  deep  pink,  is  used  as  a  coloring 
mixture ;  1  ounce  of  it  will  be  sufficient  to 
color  1  pound  of  white  fat,  by  simply  melting 
them  together. 

1259.  To  Color  Fat  Yellow.    A  yel- 
low coloring  fat  may  be  prepared  as  in  the 
last  receipt,  by  using,  instead  of  the  alkanet, 

1  ounce  of  annotto  to  the  pound  of  fat. 

1260.  To  Color  Fat  Green.    The  same 
process  followed  in  No.  1258,  with  fresh  wal- 
nut leaves,  will  give  a  green  coloring  fat. 

1261.  Essences  for  Scenting  Poma- 
tums.    Millefleur — oil  of  lemon,  3  ounces ; 
essence  of  ambergris,  4  ounces ;  oil  of  cloves, 

2  ounces,  oil  of  lavender,  2  ounces.   Cowslip — 
essence  of  bergarnot,  16  ounces ;    essence  of 
lemon,  8  ounces ;  oil  of  cloves,  4  ounces ;  oil 
of  orange-peel,  2   ounces;    oil  of  jasmin,  2 
drachms ;   eau  de  bouquet,  2  ounces ;    oil  of 
bitter  almonds,  16  drops.     For  general  use — 
essence  of  bergamot,  16  ounces;    essence  of 
lemon,  8  ounces ;  true  oil  of  origanum  and  oil 
of  cloves,  each  2  ounces ;  oil  of  orange-peel, 
1A  ounces.     (See  Nos.  1243  and  1255.) 

1262.  Pomades  by  Infusion.    These 
are  prepared  by  digesting  the  odorous  sub- 
stances in  the  simple  pomade  (see  No.  1265), 
at  a  very  gentle  heat,  for  2  or  3,  to  .8  or  10 
hours,  according  to  their  nature,  in  the  way 
already  noticed  under  "Oils"  (see  No.  1228); 
observing  to  stir  the  mixture  frequently,  and 
to  keep  the  vessel  covered  as  much  as  possible 
during  the  whole  time.     1  part  of  flowers, 
carefully  picked  and  pulled  to  pieces,  to  3  or 
4  parts  of  pomade,  are  the  usual  proportions. 
The  next  day  the  mixture  is  again  greatly 
heated,  and,  after  being  stirred  for  a  short 
time,  is  thrown  into  a  strong  canvas  bag, 
which  is  then  securely  tied,  and  at  once  sub- 
mitted to  the  action  of  a  powerful    press. 
(This  should    have    been    previously    made 
moderately  warm.    This  is  effected  cither  by 
means  of  a  steam-jacket,  or  by  filling  it  with 


hot  water.  In  the  latter  case,  care  should  be 
taken  to  perfectly  free  it  from  water  before 
use. )  The  whole  operation  is  then  repeated, 
several  times,  with  fresh  flowers,  or  other 
bulky  odorous  substance,  until  the  pomade  be 
sufficiently  fragrant.  This  will  require  3  to 
6  times  its  weight  in  flowers.  Lastly,  in  the 
case  of  flowers,  the  pomade  is  liquefied  in  a 
covered  vessel,  at  a  gentle  heat,  as  before ; 
and  after  sufficient  repose  to  allow  it  to 
deposit  adhering  moisture,  is  poured  off  for 
stock,  or  is  at  once  potted.  To  obtain  es- 
sences the  fat  is  treated  with  spirit,  which 
combines  with  the  essential  oil,  leaving  the 
fat  with  still  a  strong  odor  of  the.  flower. 
This  latter  forms  the  French  pomade.  The 
delicate  perfume  of  some  flowers  is  impaired 
by  heat,  and  the  process  of  absorption  (en- 
fleuragc)  is  adopted.  (See  No.  1263.)  The 
mode  of  proceeding  with  the  aromatic  barks, 
seeds,  resins,  balsams,  &c.,  the  duration  of 
the  infusion,  and  the  proportions  taken,  are, 
for  the  most  part,  similar  to  those  of  the  cor- 
responding huiles  or  oils ;  but  here  the  first 
two  substances,  and  others  of  a  like  nature, 
are  only  bruised,  ground,  or  sliced  very  small, 
and  not  reduced  to  actual  powder  before 
digestion,  as  pomades,  unlike  oils,  cannot  be 
freed  from  fine  powder  or  dust  by  filtration 
through  fine  media,  or  by  repose  in  the  cold. 
In  this  way  are  prepared  the  pomades  of 
balsam  of  Peru,  benzoin,  cassia,  cinnamon, 
lavender  (green),  orange-blossoms,  orris-root 
(violet),  roses  (colored),  storax,  vanilla,  and 
several  others,  kept  by  the  French  perfumers, 
and  known  and  spoken  of  in  this  country  by 
their  French  names,  as  "Pomade  aux  Fleurs 
d'Oranges,"  "a  la  Rose,"  "a  la  Vanille,"  (fee. 
(Cooley.)  Piesse  proposes  a  simple  method 
by  which  any  person  can  perfume  pomade  in 
small  quantities;  and,  if  desired,  prepare- per- 
fumed extracts  of  favorite  flowers.  Procure 
an  ordinary,  perfectly  clean,  double  glue-pot, 
the  inner  vessel  capable  of  holding  a  pound  of 
fat.  When  the  flowers  are  in  bloom,  put  a 
pound  of  fine  lard  into  the  inner  vessel  of  the 
slue-pot;  pour  sufficient  boiling  water  into 
the  outer  pot,  and  place  the  whole  on  a  stove 
until  the  lard  is  melted ;  strain  it  through  a 
lose  hair-sieve  into  a  vessel  containing  cold 
spring  water.  In  order  to  obtain  a  perfectly 
Inodorous  grease,  this  process  may  be  repeated 
3  or  4  times,  using  each  time  fresh  water,  con- 
taining a  pinch  each  of  salt  and  alum.  Lastly 
melt  the  purified  fat  and  let  it  cool,  to  free  it 
Tom  water.  Next  put  the  fat  in  a  vessel  in  a 
place  just  warm  enough  to  keep  it  constantly 
'iquid ;  throw  into  it  as  many  of  the  flowers 
as  it  will  receive ;  every  24  hours  for  a  week, 
strain  the  fat  from  the  flowers,  and  add  fresh 
ones.  This  repetition  of  fresh  flowers  will 
jroduce  a  highly  perfumed  pomade.  In  this 
iianner  either  one  kind  of  flowers,  or  a  mix- 
ture of  2  or  more  kinds  may  be  employed. 
The  perfumed  extract  may  be  obtained  from 
;he  pomade  by  introducing  the  cold  perfumed 
'at,  finely  chopped,  into  a  wide-necked  bottle, 
and  covering  it  with  the  strongest  spirits  of 
wine  that  can  be  obtained  ;  and,  after  closing 
the  bottle,  let  it  stand  for  a  week,  when  the 
spirit  may  be  strained  off,  and  will  be  a  per- 
'uined  extract  of  the  flowers  employed.  The 
bllowing  flowers  are  best  adapted  for  this 
process:  Rose,  jasmin,  orange,  violet,  jon- 


POMATUMS    OB    POMADES. 


133 


quil,  tuberose,   and  cassia.     Piesse  propose 
heliotrope,   but    probably  without  sufficient 
grounds. 

1263.  Pomades  by  Enfleurage.  These 
perfumed  pomades  are  prepared  by  a  simi- 
lar process  to  that  adopted  for  the  correspond- 
ing oils.  (See  No.  1229.)  On  the  large  scale, 
a  layer  of  simple  pomade  is  spread,  •with  a 
bone  palette-knife,  on  panes  of  glass,  to  about 
the  thickness  of  a  finger,  and  the  surface  is 
closely  stuck  all  over  with  the  newly-gathered 
flowers.  The  panes  are  then  placed  in  shal- 
low frames  of  wood,  and  these  are  closely 
piled  one  upon  another,  in  stacks,  in  a  moder- 
ately cool  situation.  In  some  of  the  great 
perfumeries  of  France,  many  thousands  of 
these  frames  are  employed  at  once.  -On  the 
small  scale,  porcelain  or  pewter  plates  are 
generally  used  instead  of  panes  of  glass,  and 
are  inverted  over  each  other,  in  pairs,  so  as  to 
fit  close  at  the  edges.  In  each  case  the 
flowers  are  renewed  daily,  and  the  fat  stirred 
up  and  re-spread  occasionally,  for  1,  2,  or 
even  3  months,  or  until  the  pomade  has  be- 
come sufficiently  fragrant  to  render  it  of  the 
quality  intended  by  the  manufacturer.  It  is 
now  scraped  oft'  the  panes  or  plates,  into  the 
store-pots,  and  is  ready  for  use  or  sale.  In 
this  way  are  prepared  the  finest  qualities  of 
cowslip,  honeysuckle,  jasmin,  jonquil,  may- 
blossom,  myrtle-blossom,  narcissus,  orange- 
flower,  tuberose,  and  violet  pomade ;  as  well 
as  the  pomades  of  several  other  delicate 
flowers  that  readily  impart  their  odor  to  fat 
by  simple  proximity  or  contact.  The  imported 
pomades  of  this  class,  like  those  of  the  last 
one,  are  always  distinguished  among  the  per- 
fumers, by  their  French  names;  as  "  Pomade 
au  Jasmin,"  "  Pomade  aux  Fleurs  d'Oranges," 
"  Pomade  a  la  Yiolette,"  <fcc.  The  stronger 
pomades  of  these  last  two  classes  are  chiefly 
employed  in  the  preparation  of  extraits  and 
essences,  and  are  added  to  other  pomades,  to 
impart  the  fragrance  of  the  respective  flowers. 
The  others  are  also  used  as  hair  cosmetics. 
( Cooler/. ) 

1264.  Mixed  Pomades;   Compound 
Pomades.     Those  are  prepared  either  by  the 
admixture  of  the  different  fragrant  pomades 
already  noticed,  or  by  the  addition  of  judicious 
combinations  of  the  more  esteemed  essential 
oils,  essences,  and  other  odorous  substances, 
to   simple   pomade,   whilst  in  the  liquid  or 
semi-liquid  state.     The  latter  is  the  method 
almost  exclusively  adopted  by  our  perfumers. 
The  usual  fatty  basis  of  the  preceding  po- 
mades is  one  or  other  of  the  following : 

1265.  Plain  Pomatum  or   Pomade. 
Take  2  parts  carefully  rendered  hog's  lard,  and 
1  part  beef-suet  (see  No.  1253,  <f-c.),  and  melt 
them  together  by  a  very  gentle  heat.    The 
product  is  of  the  proper  consistence  for  tem- 
perate climates.      Or:    Lard,    5  parts,    and 
mutton-suet,  2  parts.     (See  No.  1253.)    Or: 
Lard  and  suet  equal  parts. 

1266.  Common  Pomatum.      Take  of 
plain  pomade  (or  fat),  1  pound,  melt  it  at  the 
lowest  degree  of  heat  that  will  effect  the  ob- 
ject,   add   of  oil  of  bergamot  and  lemon,  of 
each  1  drachm  ;  stir  the  mixture  until  it  be- 
gins to  concrete,  and  then  pour  it  into  the 
pots   or  bottles.      This  forms    the  ordinary 
pomatum. 

1267.  Rose  Pomade.     Melt   together 


and  mix  in  a  water-bath  1  pound  prepared 
grease  and  2  ounces  spermaceti ;  triturate  in 
a  mortar  until  it  becomes  white  and  smooth, 
then  add  and  incorporate  thoroughly  3  ounces 
oil  of  sweet  almonds,  ±  drachm  oil  of  roses, 
and  4  drachm  oil  of  geranium.  A  rose-color 
is  obtained  by  heating  the  oil  of  almonds  and 
adding  to  it  5  drachrn  of  alkanet,  and  strain- 
ing it  before  incorporation. 

1268.  Pomade  Millefleur.    This  much 
esteemed  pomade  is  strongly  scented   with 
several  perfumes  of  the  kind  noticed  below, 
so  proportioned  to  each  other  that  none  pre- 
dominate.   The  following  are  common  exam- 
ples;  but  the   scents,   within  certain  limits, 
may  be  varied  at  will : — Take  of  plain  pomade, 
1J  pounds  avoirdupois;  oil  of  lemon,  1^  Impe- 
rial fluid  drachms;  -oil  of  lavender '(English), 
balsam  of  Peru,  and  essence  royale,  of  each 
1  fluid  drachm;   oil  of  cassia,  oil  of  cloves, 
and  essence  de  petit-grain,  of  each   %   fluid 
drachm.    Or,  plain  pomade,  1  pound,  and  es- 
sence or  extrait  de  millefleurs,  4  to  5  fluid 
drachms. 

1269.  Peruvian   Pomade.     Take    i 
ounce  each  good  washed  lard,  and  clarified 
beef  suit;  balsam  of  Peru,  4  ounce;  mix  as 
before,  add  &  fluid  drachm  oil  of  nutmeg,  and 
pour  it  into  pots  or  dumpy,  wide-mouthed 
phials.    Dr.  Copland  adds  a  little  oil  of  laven- 
der.    In  high  repute  as  a  hair-restorer. 

1270.  Philocome.     This  compound    is 
made  without  heat.    Equal  parts  of  purified 
beef-marrow,  oils  of  noisettes  and  sweet  al- 
monds   are  thoroughly  mixed  in  a  marble 
mortar,  and  the  whole  is  then  perfumed  by 
the  addition  of  a  sufficient  quantity  of  a  mix- 
ture of  extracts  of  rose,  acacia,  jasmin,  or- 
ange-flower and  tuberose. 

1271.  Vanilla   Pomatum.      Take    of 
plain  pomade  1  pound  avoirdupois;  melt  and 
add  4  or  5  Imperial  fluid  drachms  finest  es- 
sence of  vanilla ;  attar  of  roses,  8  or  10  drops, 
as  before.    Very  fine.    The  plain  pomade  may 
be  previously  slightly  tinged  with  annotto. 

1272.  East  India  Pomatum  ;  Pomade 
des  Indes;   or  Pomade  d'Orient.     Take 
beef-suet, £  pound  avoirdupois;  lard,  3  pound; 
pure  bright  beeswax,  2  ounces;  finest  annotto, 
1  drachm;  gum-benzoin  in  coarse  powder,  f 
ounce ;  and  grain-inusk,  6  to  8  grains ;  digest 
in  a  covered  vessel  set  in  a  water-bath,  with 
frequent  agitation,  for  2  or  3  hours.    After  re- 
pose, decant  the  clear  portion,  add  of  oil  of 
lemon,  1  Imperial  fluid  drachm ;  oil  of  laven- 
der (English),  i  fluid  drachm;  oils  of  cassia, 
cloves  and  verbena,  each  10  or  12  drops ;  and 
stir  the  mass  until  it  has  somewhat  cooled. 
Lastly,  pour  it  into  pots  or  bottles,  and  let  it 

ool  very  slowly,  and  undisturbed.    Yery  fra- 
grant. 

1273.  Transparent  Pomade.     Take  of 
best  transparent  soap,   1 3  drachms;    95  per 
cent,  alcohol,  2i  ounces.    Dissolve  the  soap 
in  the  alcohol  by  heat,  and  add  it  suddenly  to  / 
a  quart  of  hot  castor  oil ;  have  perfume  ready  / 
to  put  in  at  once,  and  pour  in  warm  bottles. 
Another  very  superior  article  is  prepared  in 
the  following  way  :  Fatty  oil  of  almonds,  24 
pounds;  spermaceti,  k  pound;  oil  of  lemon,  3 
ounces.    The  spermaceti  is  melted  in  a  water- 
bath,  the  oils  are  then  added,  and  the  heat 
kept  up  until  a  uniform  mass  is  obtained,  in 
which  no  floating  particles  of  spermaceti  can 


134 


POMATUMS    OR    POMADES. 


be  distinguished.  The  pomade  is  then  poured 
into  glasses ;  if  it  is  desired  to  obtain  this  po- 
made crystallized,  the  glasses  must  be  heated 
beforehand,  and  cooled  down  tfery  slowly. 

1274.  Crystallized  Pomade  or  Poma- 
tum.    Take  of  oil  of  almonds  or  olives,  1 
pint;  J  pound  spermaceti  (best,  pure);  melt 
them  together  by  a  gentle  heat,  add  scent  at 
will,  and  whilst  sufficiently  warm  to  be  clear, 
pour  it  into  warm  glass  bottles,  and  allow  it 
to  cool  very  slowly,  and  without  disturbance. 
Some  persons  add  1  drachm  camphor.     It  is 
usually  preferred  uncolored.     If  tinged  at  all, 
it  must  be  only  very  faintly  so,  and  with  sub- 
stances that  will  not  cause  opacity. 

1275.  Pomade  Divine.     Take  of  refined 
beef-marrow,  1  pound  avoirdupois ;  cypress- 
wood  (rasped),  orris  root  (in  coarse  powder), 
liquid  styrax,   of  each  1  ounce;    cinnamon 
(powdered,  but  not  dusty),  i  ounce;  cloves 
(well  bruised),  nutmegs  (grated),  of  each  J 
ounce ;  digest,  by  the  heat  of  a  water-bath,  in 
a  covered  vessel,  for  5  or  6  hours,  and  then 
strain  through  flannel.     Very  fine,  and  much 
esteemed  for  the  hair,  and  also  as  an  occasional 
skin-cosmetic. 

1276.  Castor   Oil   Pomade;    Palma- 
Christi  Pomatum.     Take  of  castor  oil,  1 
pound  avoirdupois;  pure  white  wax,  4  ounces; 
melt  them  together,  and  then  add  of  oil  of 
bergamot,  2£  drachms;  oil  of  lavender  (Eng- 
lish), £  drachm;  essence  royale,  10 or  12 drops; 
stir  the  mixture  whilst  cooling. 

1277.  Bear's  Grease.     The  fat  of  the 
bear  has  long  been  highly  esteemed  for  pro- 
moting the  growth  of  human  hair,  but  with- 
out sufficient  reason,  since  experience  shows 
that  it  possesses  no  superiority  over  the  fats 
ordinarily  employed  by  the  perfumers.     In- 
deed, if  we  may  regard  the  somewhat  rank 
smell  of  genuine  bear's  grease  as  an  indication 
of  its  quality,  it  must  be  inferior  to  them  as 
a  hair  cosmetic;  besides  which,  it  is  much 
more  costly.     The  greater  portion  of  the  so- 
called  bear's  grease  now  sold  is  a  factitious 
article,  and  is  prepared  by  the  following  for- 
mula : — 

1278.  Imitation  Bear's  Grease.     Take 
of  washed  hog's  lard  (dry),  1J  pounds  avoirdu- 
pois ;  melt  it  by  the  heat  of  a  water-bath,  add 
of  balsam  of  Peru,  2  drachms;  flowers  of 
benzoin    and   palm   oil   (bright),   of   each  1 
drachm ;  stir  vigorously  for  a  few  minutes,  to 
promote  solution.     Then  remove  the  pan  from 
the  bath,  and,  after  repose  for  a  short  time, 
pour  off  the  clear  portion  from  the  sediment, 
and  stir  the  liquid  mass  until  it  begins  to 
cool. 

1 279.  Pomade  for  Incipient  Baldness. 
Melt  over  a  water-bath,  12  ounces  pure  veal 
grease,  5  ounces  nerval  balsam,  5  ounces  nut- 
meg butter,  and  6|  ounces  oil  of  almonds; 
triturate  in  a  mortar  until  thoroughly  mixed ; 
then  add  10  drops  croton  oil,  and  incorporate. 
Next  dissolve  3£  ounces  subcarbonate  of  soda 
in  1  ounce  each  of  alcohol  and  distilled  water; 
incorporate  this  with  the  pomade  and  perfume 
to  taste. 

1280.  Cazenave's  Pomade.    Prepared 
beef-inarrow,  4  ounces  (avoirdupois) ;  tincture 
of  cantharides,  -J  fluid  ounce  (Imperial);  and 
cinnamon  coarsely  powdered,  \  ounce;  melt 
them  together  by  the  heat  of  a  water-bath ; 
stir  until  the  spirit  in  the  tincture  has  evapo- 


rated, decant  the  clear  portion,  and  again  stir 
until  the  mass  concretes.  It  is  cheaper  and 
more  convenient  to  omit  the  powdered  cin- 
namon, and  to  strongly  scent  it  with  oil  of 
cinnamon  (or  of  cassia),  after  the  removal  of 
the  vessel  from  the  bath.  Some  scent  it  with 
the  oils  of  origanum  and  bergamot;  and 
others  employ  the  oils  of  nutmeg  and  laven- 
der for  the  purpose.  Recommended  in  weak 
hair  and  remediable  baldness.  It  is  ordered 
to  be  used  night  and  morning ;  the  head  being 
washed  with  soap  and  water,  and  afterwards 
with  salt  and  water,  and  wiped  dry,  each  time 
before  applying  it,  or  at  least  once  a  day. 

1281.  Tar  Pomade.     Dr.  Dauvergne  ex- 
tolled in  unmeasured  terms    the  virtue    of 
vegetable  tar  in  failing  hair  and  baldness. 
His  formula  is  as  follows : — 6J  troy  ounces 
lard;  5  drachms  Norwegian  tar ;  3^  drachms 
each  butter  of  nutmegs  and  gum-benzoin ;  5 
drachms  fiovarenti  balm ;  5  drachms  baume 
de  commander;  1  ounce  essence  of  patchouli; 
and  3  grains  musk ;  mix.     This  formula  ap- 
pears unnecessarily  and  absurdly  complicated. 
We  have  no  hesitation  in  stating  that  the 
substitution  of  3  to  5  drachms  English  oil  of 
lavender,  and  2  drachms  essence  of  musk  or 
essence  royale,  for  the  last  four  articles,  would 
disguise  the  smell  of  the  tar  quite  as  well, 
without  impairing  the  efficacy  of  the  prepara- 
tion. 

1282.  Dupuytren's  Pomade.    Take  12 
avoirdupois    ounces   prepared    beef-marrow ; 
melt  by  a  gentle  heat,  add  baume  nerval,  4 
ounces;  3  ounces  each  balsam  of  Peru  and 
oil  of  almonds;  and  mix  thoroughly.     Then 
add  alcoholic  extract  of  cantharides,  36  grains, 
dissolved  in  3  Imperial  fluid  drachms  recti- 
fied spirit;  stir  the  mass  until  it  concretes. 
This  is  the  original  formula  for  this  celebrated 
pomade;    but,  in  serious  cases,   Dupuytren 
was  in  the  habit  of  doubling,  or  even  tripling 
the  proportion  of  the  extract  of  cantharides 
without  altering  that  of  the  other  ingredients. 
The  product  is  a  genial  stimulant  and  rubefa- 
cient,  and,  not  undeservedly,  has  long  been 
held  in  high  esteem  as  a  hair-cosmetic,  acting 
by  medicating  the  scalp. 

1283.  Soubeiran's  Pomade.    Take  of 
oil  of  almonds,  \  ounce ;  disulphate  of  quinine, 
1  drachm ;  triturate  them  together  in  a  warm 
wedgwood    ware    mortar   until    thoroughly 
united ;   then  add  of  prepared  beef-marrow, 
\\  ounces;  and  continue  the  trituration  until 
the    mass    is    cold.     Scent    may   be   added. 
Recommended  for  strengthening  and  restoring 
the  hair. 

1284.  Pomade   Contre     1'Alopecie, 
to  Cure  Baldness.     Fresh  lemon  juice,  1 
drachm;  extract  of  bark  (by  cold  water),  2 
drachms ;  marrow,  2  ounces ;  tincture  of  can- 
tharides,  1  drachm;  oil  of  lemon,  20  drops; 
oil  of  bergamot,  10  drops ;  mix.     First  wash 
the  head  with  soap  and  water,  with  a  little 
eau  de  Cologne,  then  rub  it  dry.     Next  morn- 
ing rub  in  a  small  lump  of  pomade,  and  re- 
peat it  daily.    In  4  or  5  weeks  the  cure  of 
baldness  is  effected. 

1285.  New    French     Remedy    for 
Baldness.     Croton  oil,  one  of  the  last  French 
remedies  for  baldness,  is  employed  by  simply 
adding  it  to  oil  or  pomade,  and   stirring  or 
agitating   the  two  together  until  admixture 
or  solution  be  complete.    The  formula  adopt- 


TOOTH   POWDERS. 


135 


ed  by  the  eminent  French  physician  who  in- 
troduced this  remedy,  and  who  speaks,  in  the 
most  confident  and  enthusiastic  way,  of  the 
success  attending  its  use,  is — take  of  croton 
oil,  12  drops  (minims) ;  oil  of  almonds,  4 
Troy  drachms;  mix.  A  little  is  to  be  well 
rubbed  on  the  scalp  twice  a  day.  Soft  down, 
we  are  assured,  appears  in  three  weeks.  Mr. 
Cooley  says :  "I  have  tried  a  number  of  ex- 
periments with  croton  oil,  thus  used,  in  partial 
loss  of  hair  and  baldness,  and  am  compelled 
to  bear  testimony  to  its  efficacy  in  several  ap- 
parently hopeless  cases,  in  which  even  can- 
tharidine  had  failed.  Soft  hair,  resembling 
down,  did  begin  to  appear  in  from  3  to  4 
weeks,  and  continued  to  grow  and  increase  in 
strength  for  some  time.  It  was,  however, 
only  in  about  one-third  of  these  cases  that  this 
down  subsequently  increased  in  stiffness  and 
quantity  so  as  to  well  cover  the  part,  and  to 
deserve  the  name  of  hair,  in  the  popular  sense 
of  the  word."  (See  No.'  1286.) 

1286.  Caution   about    Strong   Hair 
Cosmetics.     Although  the  stronger  hair  cos- 
metics are,  as  a  rule,  perfectly  safe  when  ap- 
plied according  to  the  directions  given,  and 
the  chief  inconvenience  that  may  arise,  even 
from  their  too  free  or  injudicious  use,  will  be 
only    temporary    irritation,  perhaps    accom- 
panied or  followed  by  slight  desquamation  of 
the  cuticle,  or  by  a  few  unimportant  pustules 
which  will  pass  off  in  two  or  three  days,  yet 
there  are  cases  in  which  their  application 
would  be  unwise,  and  liable  to  produce  more 
serious    consequences.     Thus,  persons  of  a 
nervous  temperament,  with  a  highly  irritable 
skin,  and  bad  habit  of  body,  persons  liable  to 
attacks  of  erysipelas,   or  to  swollen  glands 
behind  the  ears,  or  to  swellings  or  tumors  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  neck  behind,  or  to  erup- 
tive or  other  attacks  of  the  scalp,  and  the 
like,  should  not  have  recourse  to  them.     In 
other  cases,  and,  indeed,  in  all  cases,  it  is  wise 
to  use  them  very  sparingly,  or  in  a  diluted 
state  at  first,  .and  thus,  as  it  were,  feel  our 
way,  and  be  able  to  judge  from  experience 
the  strength  that  can  be  employed,  without 
inconvenience,  to  produce  the  desired  effect. 
(See  Nos.  1177,  fc.,  1279,  fa.,  and  1285.) 

1287.  Hungarian   Pomade  for   the 
Moustache.     Melt  by  a  gentle  heat  h  pound 
gum-arabic,  and  i  pound  of  oil  soap,  in  1  pint 
rose  water,  then  add  1  pound  white  wax,  con- 
stantly stirring;  when  of  a  uniform  consist- 
ency, add  1  ounce  attar  of  bergamot,  and  | 
drachm  attar  of  thyme,  for  perfume.     If  re- 
quired to  be  brown,  color  it  with  tube-burnt 
amber ;  or  for  black,  use  tube  ivory-black. 


Tooth.    Powders ;    Denti- 
frices ;  Pondres  pour 

leS  DentS ;  &C.  These  preparations 
should  be  compounded  of  materials  which, 
while  cleaning  the  teeth  without  injury  to  the 
enamel,  will  also  be  anti-acid,  anti-scorbutic, 
and  tonic  in  their  action  upon  the  gums. 
Cooley  says  :  "  Great  care  should  be  taken  to 
finely  pulverize  all  the  dry  ingredients,  and  to 
reduce  the  harder  and  gritty  ones  to  the  state 
of  impalpable  powder,  either  by  patient  levi- 
gation  or  trituration,  or  by  elutriation.  (See 


Nos.  25,  31,  and  14.)  To  ensure  the  perfect 
mixture  of  the  ingredients,  they  should  be 
stirred  together  until  they  form  an  apparently 
homogeneous  powder,  which  should  then  be 
passed  or  rubbed  through  a  fine  gauze-sieve. 
Those  which  contain  volatile  or  perishable 
substances,  or  which,  like  charcoal,  are  affected 
by  contact  with  the  air,  should  be  put  up  iu 
dumpy,  wide-mouthed  bottles,  and  kept  close- 
ly corked."  "Tooth  powders  are  nearly  all 
compound  powders.  The  only  simple  powder 
in  common  use  as  a  dentifrice  is  powdered 
charcoal.  Powdered  bicarbonate  of  soda, 
cream  of  tartar,  &c.,  are  also  employed, 
though  less  frequently."  The  following  list 
includes  some  of  the  best  tooth-powders  in 
common  use,  as  well  as  several  advertised 
nostrums  and  named  powders  of  the  stores. 
By  omitting  the  honey  and  spirit,  the  formula? 
given  for  tooth  pastes  furnish  others  for  tooth 
powders ;  and  vice  versa.  Thus,  the  example 
given  under  each  will  increase  the  number  of 
the  other ;  and  both  will  suggest  to  the  reader 
other  formulae. 

1289.  Poudre  Detersive  Dentifrice. 
Willow  charcoal  and  white  sugar  in  impalpa- 
ble powder,  each  8  ounces ;  calasaya  bark  in 
impalpable  powder,  4  ounces ;  mix  thoroughly 
in  a  mortar,  sift  through  the  finest  bolting 
cloth,  and  perfume  with  a  mixture  of  attar  of 
mint,  2  drachms ;  attar  of  cinnamon,  1  ounce ; 
and  tincture  of  amber,  •£  ounce. 

1290.  Camphorated  Chalk.     Precipi- 
tated carbonate  of  lime  (chalk),   1  pound ; 
powdered   orris  root,  3£  pounds;    powdered 
camphor,  J  pound;    reduce  the  camphor  to 
fine  powder  by  triturating  it  in  a  mortar  with 
a  little  alcohol;  then  add  the  other  ingredients, 
and  when  the  mixture  is  complete,  sift  through 
the  finest  bolting  cloth.     (See  No.  28.) 

1291.  Precipitated   Chalk.      This  is 
prepared  by  adding  a  solution  of  carbonate  of 
soda  to  a  solution  of  chloride  of  calcium  (both 
cold),  as  long  as  a  precipitate  forms.    This 
last  is  well  washed  with  pure  water,  and 
dried  out  of  the  dust,  as  the  last.    The  refuse 
sulphate  of  lime  of  the  soda-water  makers, 
which  is  poisonous  in  quantity,  is  often  sold 
for  it  by  the  druggists.     Pure  chalk  is  wholly 
soluble  in  vinegar,  and  in  dilute  acetic,  hydro- 
chloric, and  nitric  acid,  with  effervescence. 
Sulphate  of  lime  is  insoluble  in  these  fluids. 

1292.  To   make    Prepared    Chalk. 
Rub   1  pound  chalk  with    sufficient  water, 
added  gradually,  to  make  it  a  smooth  cream ; 
then  stir  this  into  a  large  quantity  of  water, 
after  the  coarser  particles  have  settled  decant 
the  milky  fluid  into  another  vessel,  and  allow 
the  chalk  to  settle ;  decant  the  clear  water, 
and  dry  the  sediment. 

1293.  To    Purify    Hartshorn.     Burn 
pieces  of  harts'  horns  until  perfectly  white ; 
then   grind  them,   and    purify  in  the  same 
manner  as  chalk.     (Sec  No.  1292.) 

1294.  Lardner's  Tooth  Powder.   Take 
of  powdered  charcoal  (recent),  1  ounce ;  pre- 
pared chalk   (see  No.  1292),  3  ounces;  mix, 
and  keep  it  from  the  air.     A  simple,  but  good 
tooth  powder,  known  also  as  Lardner's  Pre- 
pared Charcoal. 

1295.  Miahle's  Rational  Dentifrice. 
Take  of  sugar  of  milk,  3  ounces ;  tannin  (tftn- 
nic   acid),  3  drachms;   red  lake,  1  drachm; 
oil  of  mint  and  oil  of  aniseed,  of  each  7  or  8 


136 


TOOTH 


drops;  neroli,  4  or  5  drops;  mix.  Very 
serviceable  in  foul,  lax,  or  bleeding  gums, 
loose  or  rotten  teeth,  &c.  As  a  tooth  powder 
it  is  improved  by  the  addition  of  1  ounce  each 
of  burnt  hartshorn  and  cuttle-fish  bone. 

1296.  Deschamp's  Dentifrice  for  Re- 
moving the  Yellow  Color  from  Teeth. 
Take  of  dry  hypochlorite  of  lime,   k  drachm ; 
red  coral,  2  drachms ;  triturate  well  and  mix 
thoroughly.    This  powder  is  employed  in  the 
following  manner:    a  new  brush  is  slightly 
moistened,  then  dipped  in  the  powder  and  ap- 
plied to  the  teeth.     According  to  Deschamp, 
a  few  days'  use  of  this  powder  will  produce  a 
marked  alteration  in  the  appearance  of  the 
the  teeth,  which  will  acquire  a  white  color. 

1297.  An  Excellent  Dentifrice.     Pre- 
cipitated chalk  (see  No.  1291),  1  pound;  pow- 
dered borax,    \  pound;  powdered  rnyrrh,  4 
ounces ;  powdered  orris,  4  ounces.     Mix,  and 
sift  through  finest  bolting  cloth.  (See  No.  28.) 

1298.  Morfit's  Dentifrice.     Powdered 
willow  charcoal,   4  ounces;  chinehoua  bark 
and  sugar  of  milk,  in  powders,  each  1  pound ; 
old  transparent  soap,  in  powder,   4  ounces; 
mix  in  a  marble  mortar,  sift  through  the  finest 
bolting  cloth  (see  No.  28),  and  perfume  with 
attar  of  orange-flower,  1  ounce. 

1299.  Grosvenor's   Tooth    Powder. 
Take  of  red  coral,  6  ounces ;  prepared  oyster- 
shells,  5  ounces ;  orris  root,  1  ounce ;  oil  of 
rhodium,  4  or  5  drops ;  mix.  This  is  the  origi- 
nal formula.     Equal  parts  of  prepared  shells, 
rose-pink,  and  cuttle-fish  bone,  are  now  gen- 
erally substituted  for  the  coral.    It  is  also  sold 
as  coral  dentifrice  and  coral  tooth  powder. 
They  are    all    favorites    in  the    fashionable 
•world. 

1300.  Violet  Tooth  Powder.    Take  of 
precipitated  chalk,  6  ounces ;  cuttle-fish  bone, 
3  ounces;  rose-pink  (bright),  2i  ounces;  orris 
root,  1$  ounces ;  essence  of  violets  (orris),  \ 
fluid  drachm ;  indigo  (pure,  to  strike  a  violet 
tint),  a  sufficient  quantity ;  mix.    A  favorite 
dentifrice  among  ladies. 

1301.  Areca   Nut    Tooth    Powder. 
Take  of  areca  nut  charcoal,  5  ounces ;  cuttle- 
fish bone,  2  ounces ;  areca  nuts  (raw ),  1  ounce 
mix.    About  h  drachm  each  of  cloves  auc 
cassia  are  usually  added,  but  it  is  better  with- 
out any  such  addition.    Areca  nut  charcoal 
in  fine  powder,  is  often  sold  under  this  name 
This  powder  cannot  be  excelled.     (See  No 
1302.) 

1302.  Areca  Nut  Charcoal  is  prepared 
and  kept  by  only  a  few  houses ;  four-fifths  o 
that  sold  by  the  druggists  is  spurious.    Th< 
genuine  powder  is  heavier  and  harder  thai 
common  charcoal,    and   has  a  peculiar    ap 
pearance  and  feel,  when  pressed  with  the  fin 
gers,  which  is  readily  distinguishable. 

1303.  Pearl  Dentifrice;  Pearl  Tooth 
Powder.      Take    of   white    marble-dust,   '" 
ounces;    cuttle-fish   bone,    1    ounce;    smalt 
(finest),  1  drachm ;  essence  de  petit-grain,  10 
to  12  drops;  mix.     A  favorite  with  ladies  whi 
have  white,  healthy  teeth.   Precipitated  chall 
or  heavy  carbonate  of  magnesia  is  commonb 
substituted  for  the  marble-dust,  but  the  qual 
ity  of  the  product  suffers  in  all  but  color. 

1304.  Pelletier's  duinine  Dentifrice 
Take  of  red  coral,  3 ounces;  myrrh,  1  drachm 
disulphate  of  quinine,   15  grains;    scent  a 
will ;  mix.    Recommended  as  a  tonic  for  the 


eeth  and  gums.  Prepared  oyster-shell  ia 
jommonly  substituted  for  the  coral,  and  a  little 
red  bole  added  to  color  it. 


Toothpastes;  Tooth  Elec- 
tuaries; Pates  pourles 

DentS.  These  may  consist  of  any  of  the 
substances  ordinarily  used  as  dentifrices,  re- 
duced to  the  state  of  iupalpable  powder,  and 
>eaten  up  with  sufficient  honey  (liquefied  by 
a  gentle  heat),  syrup,  or  capillaire,  to  give 
;hem  the  form  of  a  smooth  and  moderately 
stiff"  paste  or  electuary,  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  aromatics  being  usually  added,  as  .it  were, 
to  "embalm  and  perfume  the  mouth."  Honey 
of  roses  is  often,  and  conserve  of  roses  some- 
;imes,  used  for  those  in  which  their  odor  and 
color  are  suitable.  A  little  rectified  spirit  is  a 
useful  addition,  as  tending  to  preserve  them, 
and  promote  their  action.  A  little  eau  de  Co- 
ogne  or  lavender  water  is  often  employed, 
with  the  same  intention.  They  are  usually 
put  up  in  porcelain  or  ornamental  glazed  earth- 
mware  pots,  furnished  with  closely  fitting 
;overs,  to  preserve  their  contents  from  the 
air.  The  mixed  powders  should  be  passed 
through  a  very  fine  gauze-sieve,  before  adding 
the  honey,  and  the  paste  should  not  be  potted 
until  the  day  following  that  on  which  it  is 
made.  (See  No.  1288.) 

1306.  Ward's  Tooth  Paste.    Take  of 
prepared   chalk    (see   No.   1292),  2  ounces : 
myrrh,  rhatany  root,  and  cuttle-fish    bone, 
each,  i  ounce ;  orris  root,  %  ounce ;  honey,  3 
ounces.     A    very    useful    dentifrice    in  foul, 
spongy,  and  scorbutic  gums,  loose  and  rotten 
teeth,  &c.     This  is  also  known  as  Zeiter's  An- 
ti-scorbutic Dentifrice. 

1307.  Areca   Nut    Charcoal   Tooth 
Paste.     Areca  nut  charcoal  (recent,  in  fine 
powder),  beaten  up  with  pure  honey  or  capil- 
laire.    Aromatics,  though  commonly  added, 
do  not  improve  its  efficacy.     (Sec  No.  1302.) 

1308.  Areca  Nut  Tooth  Paste.     Take 
of  recently  burnt  areca-nut  charcoal,  in  fine 
powder  (sec  No.  1302),  5  parts ;    raw  or  un- 
burnt  areca  nuts,  1  part;  honey,  liquefied  by  a 
gentle  heat,  and  allowed  to  cool,  sufficient  to 
make  them  into  a  stiff  paste,  adding  gradual- 
ly, for  each  ounce  of  the  mixture,   about  1 
fluid  drachm  rectified  spirit,  holding  in  solu- 
tion oil  of  cassia  and  oil  of  cloves,  of  each 
10  or  12  drops.     The  next  day  beat  up  the 
mass  again,  adding,  if  necessary,  a  few  drops 
of  proof  spirit,  or  of  eau  de  rose  or  orange- 
flower  water,  to  give  it  a  proper  consistence, 
and  at  once  put  it  into  pots.  A  very  excellent 
preparation. 

1309.  Vanilla  Tooth  Paste.     Take  of 
the  finest  vanilla,  1  drachm  ;  cloves,  5  drachm; 
lump  sugar   and  cuttle-fish  bone,  of  each  £ 
ounce  ;  white  marble-dust,  1  ounce  ;  mix,  trit- 
urate them  to  an  inpalpablc  powder,  and  then 
beat  them  to  a  paste  with  about  2  ounces 
syrup  of  saffron.    The  product  is  much  es- 
teemed for  rapidly  whitening  the  teethyind 
deodorizing  the  breath.    5  or  G  drops  ot  es- 
sence of  ambergris  or  musk,   dissolved  in  1 
fluid  drachm  of  rectified  spirit,  are  often  add- 
ed, and  improve  it. 


TOOTH   AND    MOUTH    WASHES, 


137 


1310.  Peruvian  Bark  Tooth   Paste. 
This  paste  is  made  by  adding  1|  or  2  drachms 
of  Peruvian  bark,  in  very  fine  powder,  to  the 
last  receipt.    It  is  a  useful  tonic  in  spouginess, 
foulness,  and  scurvy  of  the  gums.    (See  No. 
1318.) 

1311.  Soap  Tooth  Paste.  Take  of  Cas- 
tile soap  (air-dried,  in  fine  powder),  and  cuttle- 
fish bone,  of  each  2  ounces ;  honey,  4  or  5 
ounces ;  aromatics  or  perfume  at  will,  with  or 
without  the  addition  of  a  little  rectified  spirit. 
A  very  excellent  preparation,  superior  to  all  the 
other  pastes  for  cleaning  the  teeth  and  remov- 
ing tartar  and  animalcule  from  them,  but  in- 
ferior in  blanching  and  preservative  qualities 
to  areca  nut  charcoal  paste.    A  pink  or  rose 
color  may  be  given  it  by  adding  1  drachm  of 
finely  powdered  cochineal,  or  a  fluid  drachm 
or  two  of  the  tincture.      It  is  commonly  or- 
dered in  books  to  be  made  with  honey  of  roses, 
but  the  alkali  of  the  soap  spoils  the  color  of 
this  article.     The  above  preparation  is  also 
known  under  the  names  of  Spanish  Dentifrice, 
and  Castilian  Tooth  Cream. 

1312.  Violet  Tooth  Paste.     Take   of 
prepared  chalk,  3  ounces ;  cuttle-fish  bone  and 
white  sugar  (powdered),  of  each,  2  ounces; 
orris  root  (powdered),  1  ounce;  smalts,  2  to  3 
drachms ;  mix  with  sufficient  syrup  of  violets 
to  make  a  paste.     A  fashionable  tooth-paste, 
highly  esteemed  for  its  power  of  cleaning  the 
teeth,  and  its  delicate  color  and  odor.. 

1313.  Odontine.      There    are    several 
dentifrices  advertised  under  this  name,  two 
or    three    of    which  have   acquired  a   very 
large  sale  in  the  fashionable  world.     That  of 
an  eminent  perfumery  house  appears  to  have 
the  following  composition : — Cuttle-fish  bone, 
Castile  soap  and  red  coral,  equal  parts ;  color 
with  tincture  of  cochineal  and  mix  with  honey 
sufficient  to  make  a  paste,  and  essential  oils  to 
aromatize,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  each. 

1314.  Pellitier's  Odontine  is   said  to 
consist  of  pulverized  sepia-bone  (cuttle-fish 
bone),  with  a  little  butter  of  cacao,  beaten 
up  with  honey  and  aromatized  or  scented  with 
essential  oils. 

1315.  Magic  Tooth  Paste.     Take   of 
white  marble-dust,  2  ounces ;  pumice-stone  in 
impalpable  powder,  1£  ounces;  rose-pink,  £ 
ounce ;  attar  of  roses,  7  or  8  drops ;  mix  as 
before  with  sufficient  honey  to  make  a  paste. 
A  favorite  nostrum  for  rapidly  cleaning  and 
whitening  the  teeth,  but  one  not  adapted  for 
free  or  freqi^ent  use. 

1316.  Charcoal  Tooth  Paste.     Take  of 
chlorate   of   potassa  iu  very  fine  powder,  1 
drachm ;  finely  powdered  charcoal,  2  ounces ; 
honey  (best  raw,  cold),  1A  ounces;  sufficient 
mint  water  to  flavor ;  form  a  paste  as  before. 
A  rather  unchemical  mixture,  esteemed,  par- 
ticularly by  smokers,  for  deodorising  the  teeth 
and  breath. 

1317.  To  Prepare  Charcoal  as  a  Den- 
tifrice.    To  prepare  charcoal  of  the  highest 
quality,  as  a  dentifrice,  requires  considerable 
skill  and  care.     The  substance,  whether  wood 
or  nut,  should  not  be  in  larger  than  one  inch 
pieces;  the  carbonization  should  be  effected 
in  covered  crucibles,  at  a  low  red  heat — in  no 
case  exceeding  a  dull  cherry  red, —  and  the 
whole  should  be  cooled  but  of  contact  with  the 
air.    On  opening  the  crucible,  only  those  pieces 
should  be  selected  for  use  which  are  properly 


burnt,  and  have  a  uniform  dark  color  and  a 
dull  surface.  If  the  heat  employed  be  much 
higher  than  that  named,  the  charcoal  acquires 
a  brilliant  surface,  and  is  greatly  deteriorated 
in  quality.  The  pieces  selected  should  be 
kept  in  close  vessels  for  further  use  or  opera- 
tion ;  any  exposure  to  the  air  weakens  its 
power  of  absorption. 

1318.  Peruvian  Tooth  Paste.    This  is 
formed  by  adding  about  H  to  2  drachms  of 
Peruvian  bark,  in  very  fine  powder,  to  every 
ounce  of  the  dry  ingredients  of  any  simple 
tooth  paste,   before  beating  them  up    with 
honey  or  syrup.    A  useful  tonic  for  tender, 
spongy,  foul,  or  scorbutic  gums,  and  said  to 
fix  loose  teeth.    A  little  powdered  myrrh  is 
sometimes  added. 

1319.  Quinine  Tooth  Paste.     Take  red 
coral,  3  ounces;   cuttle-fish  bone,  1   ounce; 
disulphate  of  quinine,  £  drachm ;  mix,  tritu- 
rate to  very  fine  powder,  add  honey  (white), 
4  ounces ;  and  a  few  drops  attar  of  roses,  or 
neroli,  dissolved  in  rectified  spirit,  3    fluid 
drachms ;  and  beat  the  whole  to  a  paste.    A 
little  powdered  myrrh  (1  to  3  drachms)  is 
sometimes  added.    A  very  fashionable  and 
popular  article.    Use,  &c.,  the  same  as  Peru- 
vian paste. 

1320.  Opiate  Tooth   Paste.      Honey, 
powdered  orris,  and  precipitated  chalk  (see  No. 
1291),  each  k  pound ;  rose  pink,  2  drachms. 
Rub  into  paste  with  simple  syrup,  and  per- 
fume with  oils  of  cloves,  nutmeg,  and  rose, 
each  £  ounce. 

1321.  Patey's  Orris  Tooth  Paste. 
Take  1  pound  Pans  white,  £  pound  rose  pink, 
3  ounces  orris  root ;  alum,  3  ounce  ;  oil  cloves 
and  nutmegs,  each  1  drachm.  TJse  honey 
enough  to  form  a  paste. 

1322.  Dr.  King's  Tooth  Paste.  Pre-^ 
pared  chalk  (sec  No.  129^),  1  part ;  powdered 
Peruvian  bark,  1  part ;  powdered  old  "Windsor 
soap,  1  part.  Mix  with  equal  parts  of  the 
tinctures  of  rhatany  and  myrrh ;  oil  of  check- 
erberry  to  flavor.  This  paste  is  a  fine  pre- 
paration for  soft,  spongy  gums  and  loose  teeth. 


Tooth  and  Mouth  Wash- 
6S.  These  are  used  to  rinse  the  mouth, 
and  particularly  the  teeth  and  gums,  a  few 
drops,  more  or  less,  of  them  being  added  to 
about  a  wine-glassful  of  water  for  the  purpose. 
In  some  cases  their  action  is  promoted  by  the 
use  of  the  tooth-brush. 

1324.  Eau    Botot.     Tincture   of  cedar 
wood,  1  pint ;  tincture  of  myrrh  and  rhatany, 
each  4  ounces ;  oil  of  peppermint  and  rose, 
each  10  drops.     Mix. 

1325.  Violet  Mouth  Wash.     Tincture 
of  orris,  essence  of  rose,  and  alcohol,  each  J 
pint ;  oil  of  almonds,  5  drops.     Mix. 

1326.  Mexican  Toeth  "Wash.     Take  of 
pulverized  orris  root,  1  ounce ;  tonqua  beans, 
1  ounce  ;  Peruvian  bark,  £  ounce ;  oak  bark,  i 
ounce;  alcohol,  1  pint;  water,  1  pint;  let  the 
above  stand  for  12  days,  and  filter ;  color  with 
alkanet  root.     An  elegant  tooth  wash. 

1327.  Balm  of  Thousand   Flowers. 
Take  of  white  Castile  soap,  2  ounces ;  honey, 
4  ounces ;  water,  12  ounces ;  alcohol,  4  ounces; 
melt  the  Castile  soap  and  honey  in  the  alcohol 


138 


FUMIGATING    PASTILS. 


and  water  with  a  gentle  heat.  Flavor  with 
oil  of  rose  and  wintergreen.  Used  as  a  denti 
frice. 

1328.  Wash  to  Harden  the  Gums 
Take  &  pint  of  Jamaica  spirits,  £  tea-spoonfu 
each  powdered  aluin  and  saltpetre  pulverized 
and  1  ounce  of  pulverized  myrrh.    Mix. 

1329.  Cologne  Tooth  Wash.    Eau  de 
Cologne,  1  quart ;  tincture  of  myrrh,  4  ounces 
Mix. 

1330.  Sozodont.     Take  of  salts  of  tartar 
(carbonate  of  potassa),    i  ounce;    honey,  < 
ounces;  alcohol,  2  ounces ;  water,  10  ounces 
oil  wintergreen    and  oil    rose,  sufficient    to 
flavor.    An  elegant  dentifrice. 

1331.  Cleveland's  Tooth  Wash.   Tinc- 
tures of  myrrh,  Peruvian  baric,  aiid  gentian 
root,  each  1  fluid  ounce;    aqua  ammonia,  1 
drachm ;    pure  water,    i    pint ;    tincture    oj 
wintergreen,  or  any  flavor  to  suit ;  mix.     This 
is  a  fine  wash  for  the  mouth,  gums,  and  teeth. 

1332.  Myrrh    Tooth  Wash;    Kirk- 
land's  Tooth  Lotion.     Take  of  tincture  oi 
myrrh,  1  ounce ;  water,  2  ounces ;  mucilage, 
i  ounce ;  agitate  them  well  together,  and  again 
each  time  before  use.    As  a  wash  in  rotten 
and  loose  teeth,  foul,  spongy,  and  ulcerated 
gums,  fetid    breath,   &c.,  it    is    often    very 
serviceable  where  there  is  a  scorbutic  taint. 

1333.  Myrrh    and    Borax    Mouth 
Wash.     Rub  well  together  in.  a  mortar,  1 
ounce  each  of  borax  and  honey  ;  then  gradu- 
ally add  1  quart  spirit  of  wine  (not  above 
proof),  and  add  1  ounce  each  of  gum  myrrh 
and  red  saunders  wood.      Macerate  for    14 
days,  and  filter.    This  is  an  excellent  wash 
for  the  gums  and  mouth. 

1334.  To    Cleanse  the    Spaces   Be- 
tween the  Teeth.     Some  dentists  recom- 
mend silk  floss  for  cleaning  the  spaces  between 
teeth,  but  we  know  from  experience,   that 
No.  8  gum  rings  are  superior.    They  are  much 
more  convenient  in  every  respect. 

1335.  Wash  to  Beautify  the  Teeth. 
Dissolve  2  ounces  borax  in  3  pounds  boiling 
water,  and  before  it  is  cold  add  1  tea-spoonful 
spirits  of  camphor,  and  bottle  for  use.     A 
table-spoonful  of  this  mixture,  mixed  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  tepid  water,  and  applied 
daily  with  a  soft  brush,  preserves  and  beauti- 
fies the  teeth,  extirpates  all  tartarous  adhe- 
sion, arrests  decay,  induces  a  healthy  action 
in  the  gums,   and  makes  the  teeth  pearly 
white. 

1336.  Cachpu     Aromatise.       These 
popular  pastilles  for  perfuming  the  breath  arc 
thus    made :    Dissolve  3&  ounces  extract  of 
liquorice  in  4  ounces  water,  by  the  heat  of  a 
water  bath,  and  add  pulverized  gum-arabic,  \ 
ounce;    and  Bengal    catechu  in  powder,   1 
ounce.     Evaporate  to  the  consistence  of  an 
extract,  and  then  mix  in  thoroughly,  pow 
dered  mastic,  charcoal,  cascarilla,  and  orris 
root,  each  5  drachm.    When  the  mass  has 
been  reduced  to  the  proper  consistence,  it  is 
to  be  removed  from  the  fire,  treated  with  attar 
of  peppermint,  30  drops ;  tinctures  of  amber- 
gris and  musk,  5  drops ;  and  then  poured  out 
xipon  an  oiled  slab,  and  rolled  to  a  very  thin 
sheet.     After  cooling,  blotting  paper  is  pressed 
upon  it  to  absorb  any  adhering  oil,  and  the 
surfaces    ar^  moistened    with    water,    and 
covered  with  silver  leaf.     When  dry  it  is  to 
be  divided  into  small  bits  of  the  size  of  a  lentil. 


T^umigatang  Pastils;  In- 

•*-  Cense  Pastilles.  These  are 
small  masses  essentially  composed  of  pow- 
dered charcoal  and  aromatic  substances  that 
emit  fragrant  fumes  during  combustion,  with 
the  addition  of  sufficient  nitre  or  saltpetre  to 
cause  them  to  slowly  consume  away,  without 
flame,  when  kindled.  Their  common  form  ia 
that  of  a  small  cone  with  a  triangular  or 
tripod  base,  of  about  \  to  1  inch  in  height, 
and  about  k  inch  diameter  at  the  larger  part. 
This  form  is  most  simply  and  conveniently 
given  them  by  pressing  the  mass,  whilst  soft, 
into  a  mould  of  lead  or  porcelain.  The  dry 
ingredients  should  be  first  reduced  to  fine 
powder,  and  the  balsams  and  essential  oils 
(if  any)  being  added,  the  whole  should  be 
thoroughly  and  perfectly  incorporated,  after 
which  the  mixture  should  be  beaten  to  the 
consistence  of  a  stiff  ductile  mass  or  dough 
with  the  liquid  ordered  for  the  purpose. 
When  powdered  gum  is  one  of  the  ingredients, 
the  mass  should  be  beaten  up  with  water; 
but  otherwise  mucilage  must  be  employed. 
Gum-tragacanth,  owing  to  its  greater  thicken- 
ing and  binding  powers,  is  here  generally  pre- 
ferred to  gum-arabic.  The  charcoal  of  the 
light  woods,  as  the  linden,  willow,  and  alder, 
make  the  best  pastils ;  that  of  the  first  being 
most  esteemed  for  this  purpose  in  France. 
The  following  receipts  are  among  the  best 
that  can  be  made,  and  will  serve  as  examples 
of  these  articles,  from  •which  the  operator  will 
be  able  to  devise  others : 

1338.  Dr.  Paris's  Fumigating  Pastils. 
Pulverize  £  pound  benzoin,  £  pound  cascarilla, 
1J-  ounces  myrrh,  and  1-j-  pounds  charcoal; 
mix  them  through  a  sieve ;  then  add  f  ounce 
each  of  attars  of  nutmegs  and  of  cloves ;  dis- 
solve 2  ounces  of  nitre  in  sufficient  mucilage 
of  tragacanth  to  make  the  whole  into  a  stiff 
paste  •,  beat  well  in  a  mortar,  make  into  pas- 
tils, and  dry. 

1339.  Perfumers'  Fumigating   Pas- 
tils.    Take  of  gum  benzoin,  2  ounces  (avoir- 
dupois);    olibanum  (in    tears),    14    ounces; 
storax  (in  tears),  1  ounce ;  cascariila  and  gum 
tragacanth,  of  each  £  ounce  ;  nitre,  2  ounces ; 
charcoal,  1£  pounds ;  mix,  and  beat  them  up 
with  water  or  rose  water. 

1340.  Piesse's   Fumigating    Pastils. 
Dissolve  f  ounce  nitre  in  5  pint  rose  water ; 
mix  this  with  £  pound  willow  charcoal,  and 
dry  it  thoroughly  in  a  warm  place.    When 
the  nitrated   charcoal  is  perfectly  dry,  pour 
upon  it  a  mixture  of  £  drachm  each  of  the 
attars    of  thyme,   caraway,    rose,   lavender, 
sloves,   and    santal ;     then  stir  in  6  ounces 
)enzoic  acid  (flowers  of  benzoin) ;  mix  thor- 
oughly through  a  sieve,  then  beat  in  a  mortar 
with  sufficient  mucilage    to  bind    together. 
Make  into  pastils,  and  dry. 

1 341 .  Basis  for  French  Pastils.     Take 
of  charcoal,  la  pounds  avoirdupois :    nitre,  2 
mnces ;    gum-tragacantb,    1   ounce ;    mix   in 
:he  dry  state.    It  is  used  as  a  basis  for  the 
bllowing  French  pastils,   as  well  as  many 
others : — 

1342.  Pastilles  aux  Fleurs  d'Oranges. 
To  each  pound  of  Nos.  1341  or  1339,  add  of 
orange  powder  (genuine),  2£  ounces  avoirdu- 
>ois ;   neroli,  1   Imperial  fluid   drachm ;   and 

"  eat  up  the  mass  with  eau  de  flours  d'oranges. 


FUMIGATING   PASTILS. 


139 


1343.  Pastilles  a  la  Rose.    To  each 
pound  of  N"os.  1341  or  1342,  add  of  pale  rose 
powder,    3  ounces  avoirdupois;    essence    of 
roses,  2  Imperial  fluid  drachms ;  and  beat  up 
the  mass  with  can  de  rose. 

1344.  Pastilles  a  la  Vanille.    To  each 
pound  of  Nos.  1339  or  1341  (usually  the  first), 
add  of  vanilla  (in  fine  powder),  2  ounces  av- 
oirdupois ;  cloves  (in  fine  powder),  h  ounce ; 
essence   of  vanilla,   i   Imperial  fluid  ounce ; 
oil  of  cloves,  oil  of  cassia,  of  each   i   fluid 
drachm ;  and  beat  up  the  mass  with  cinnamon 
water. 

1345.  Pastils  of  Every  Variety.     The 
products  of  the  preceding  formulae  are  of  ex- 
cellent quality.     They  may  be  varied,  to  please 
the  fancy  of  the  maker,  by  the  omission  of 
some  of  their  aromatic  ingredients,  or  by  the 
addition  or  substitution  of  others.    Cheaper 
articles  are  made  by  simply  increasing  the 
proportion    of   the    charcoal    and    saltpetre. 
Good  burning  qualities  depend  greatly  on  the 
completeness  of  the  mixture,  and  the  moder- 
ate compactness  of  the  mass.     If  they  burn 
too  slowly,  a  little  more  saltpetre  may  be 
added ;  if  too  fast,  the  quantity  of  saltpetre 
should  be  slightly  lessened.    Musk  and  civet, 
though  often  ordered  in  books  as  ingredients 
in  pastils,  should  be  avoided,  as  they  give  out 
a  disagreeable  odor  during  combustion.     Am- 
bergris is  also  unsuited  for  an  ingredient  in 
them. 

1346.  Incense.     Storax,  2i  ounces ;  ben- 
zoin, 12  ounces ;  musk  15  grains ;  burnt  sugar, 
i  ounce;  frankincense,  2j  ounces;  gum-tra- 

facanth,  li  ounces;  rose-water  sufficient  to 
>rm  a  mass ;  to  be  divided  into  small  tablets. 

1347.  Incense.     Powdered  cascarilla,  2 
ounces ;    myrrh,   storax,    benzoin,   burgundy 
pitch,  each  1  ounce ;  mix.     Or : 

1348.  Fine  Incense.     Take  of  olibanum 
(true),  7  parts;  gum  benzoin,  2  parts;  mix. 
Or :  To  the  last,  add  of  cascarilla  1  part.    The 
preceding,  placed  on  a  hot  iron  plate,  or  burned 
m  a  censer,  were  formerly  used  to  perfume 
apartments.     The  incense  used  in  the  rites  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  and  in  the  tem- 
ples of  India,  consists  wholly   or  chiefly  of 
olibanum. 

1349.  Preserved  Flowers  and  Herbs. 
Flowers,  herbs,  and  other  like  vegetable  sub- 
stances, are  now  generally  preserved,  for  dis- 
tillation,  by    means  of   common  salt.     The 
process  simply  consists  in  intimately  mixing 
the  flowers,  &c.,  with  about  £  their  weight  of 
good  dry  salt,  and  ramming  down  the  mixture 
as  tightly  as  possible,  in  strong  casks  or  jars. 
The  casks  or  jars  are  then  placed  in  the  cellar, 
or  other  cold  place,  and  covered  with  boards, 
on  which  heavy  weights  are  put,  to  keep  the 
mass  tight  and  close.     In  this  state  they  may 
be  preserved  from  season  to  season,  or  even 
for  two  or  three  years.      The  flowers,  &c., 
should  be  recently  gathered,  and  free  from 
dew  or  moisture ;  and  the  salt  should  be  quite 
dry,  to  ensure  which  it  may  be  exposed  for  2 
or  3  hours  in  an  oven.    The  above  is  the 
method  now  generally  followed,  by  our  man- 
ufacturing perfumers  and  wholesale  druggists, 
for  preserving  fresh  aromatic  vegetable  sub- 
stances   for    subsequent    distillation.      It    is 
found  that  the  odor  of  distilled  waters,  oils, 
&c.t   obtained   from  flowers,  &c.,   thus   pre- 
served, is  superior  to  that  of  those  from  either 


the  recent  or  dried  vegetables ;  whilst  the 
products  keep  better,  and  are  quite  free  from 
the  peculiar  rawness  found  in  those  from 
fresh  herbs  and  flowers,  and  which  nothing 
but  age,  or  redistillation,  will  remove. 

1350.  To  Scent  Tobacco.     Fragrance 
may  bo  imparted  to  tobacco,  by  mixing  with 
it,  while  slightly   damp,  a  little  cascarilla, 
either  in  very  fine  shreds  or  recently  powder- 
ed ;  or  by  a  like  addition  of  any  of  the  sub- 
stances noticed  under  fumigating  pastils  (see 
No.  1339)  of  which  the  odor  is  appropriate  to 
the  purpose.    Cigars  may  be  perfumed  by 
moistening  them  externally  with  concentrated 
tincture  of  cascarilla,  or  tincture  of  benzoin 
or  storax,  or  a  mixture  of  them ;  or  a  minute 
portion  of  the  powders,  shred  roots,  or  woods, 
may  be  done  up  with  the  bundle  of  leaves 
that  form  the  centre  of  the  cigar.     The  so- 
called  anti-choleraic  and  disinfecting  cigars 
are  scented    with    camphor,  cascarilla,   and 
benzoin. 

1351.  Scented  or  Aromatic  Candles. 
These  are  prepared  by  introducing  a  very 
small  quantity  of  any  appropriate  aromatic 
into  the  material  (fat,  wax,  or  wick)  of  which 
they  are  made,  whilst  it  is  in  the  liquid  state. 
Camphor,  gum  benzoin,  balsam  of  Peru,  cas- 
carilla, essential  oils,  &c.,  are  generally  the 
substances  selected.     Care  must  be  taken  not 
to  overdo  it,  as  then  the  candles  will  burn 
smoky  and  give  little  light. 

1352.  To  Make  Snuff  Scents.    Of  the 
substances  used,  singly  and  combined,  to  scent 
snuff,  the  following  may  be  mentioned  as  the 
principal: — tonqua   beans,   and  their  oil    or 
essence;    ambergris,   musk,  civet,  and  their 
essences. 

1353.  To    Scent    Snuff.     A    sufficient 
quantity  of  the  powder,  essence,  or  oil,  hav- 
ing been  well  mixed  with  a  little  snuff,  the 
perfumed  mixture  is    added    to    the   whole 
quantity  of  snuff  to  be  scented,  and  the  mass 
well  stirred  up  and  turned  over.    It  is  lastly 
passed  or  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  to  ensure 
the  perfect  diffusion  of  the  scent  through  the 
whole  mass. 

1354.  To  Restore  the  Odor  of  Musk. 
Genuine  musk  frequently  becomes  nearly  in- 
odorous by  keeping,  but  its  perfume  is  restored 
by  exposing  it  to  the  fumes  of  ammonia,  or 
by  moistening  it  with  ammonia  water. 

1355.  Peau  d'Espagne,  or   Spanish 
Skin,   is    merely    highly-perfumed    leather. 
Take  of  oil  of  rose,  neroli,  and  santal,  each  4 
ounce;    oil  of  lavender,  verbena,  bergamot, 
each  |  ounce ;   oil  of  cloves  and  cinnamon, 
each  2  drachms ;   in  this  dissolve  2   ounces 
gum  benzoin.     In  this  steep  good  pieces  of 
waste  leather  for  a  day  or  two,  and  dry  it 
over  a  line.     Prepare  a  paste  by  rubbing  in 
a  mortar,  1  drachm  of  civet  with  1  drachm  of 
grain    musk,    and    enough    gum-tragacanth 
mucilage  to  give  a  proper  consistence.     The 
leather  is  cut  up  into  pieces  about  4  inches 
square ;  two  of  these  are  pasted  together  with 
the  above  paste,  placed  between  2  pieces  of 
paper,  weighted  or  pressed  until  dry.     It  may 
then  be  inclosed  in  silk  or  satin.     It  gives  off 
its  odor  for  years ;  is  much  used  for  perfuming 
paper,  envelopes,  &c.;  for  which  purpose  1  or 
2  pieces  of  the  perfumed  leather,  kept  in  the 
drawer  or  desk   containing  the  uaper,   will 
impart  to  it  a  fine  and  durable  perfume. 


14,0 


SYRUPS. 


SVTHpS.  Syrups  are  solutions  of 
sugar  more  or  less  strong  according  to 
the  object  for  which  they  are  used.  In  the 
preparation  of  syrups,  if  care  be  taken  to  em- 
ploy the  best  refined  sugar,  and  either  distilled 
water  or  filtered  rain  water,  they  will  bo 
rendered  much  less  liable  to  spontaneous 
decomposition,  and  will  be  perfectly  trans- 
parent, without  the  trouble  of  clarification. 

1357.  Clarification    of     Sugar    for 
Syrups.     "When  inferior  sugar  is  employed, 
clarification  is  always  necessary.      This    is 
best  done  by  dissolving  the  sugar  in  the  water 
or  fruit  juices  cold,  and  then  beating  up  a 
little  of  the  cold  syrup  with  some  white  of 
egg,  and  1  or  2  ounces  of  cold  water,  until  the 
mixture  froths  well ;  this  must  be  added  to 
the  syrup  in  the  boiler,  and  the  whole  whisked 
up  to  a  good  froth ;  heat  should  now  be  ap- 
plied, and  the  scum  which  forms  removed 
from  time  to  time  with  a  clean  skimmer.    As 
soon  as  the  syrup  begins  to  slightly  simmer 
it  must  be  removed  from  the  fire,  and  allowed 
to  stand  until  it  has  cooled  a  little,  when  it 
should  be  again  skimmed,  if  necessary,  and 
then  passed  through  a  clean  flannel.    When 
vegetable  infusions  or  solutions  enter  into  the 
composition  of  syrups,  they  should  be  ren- 
dered perfectly  transparent,  by  filtration  or 
clarification,  before  being  added  to  the  sugar. 

1358.  Filters  for  Syrups.     Syrups  are 
usually  filtered,  on  the  large  scale,  by  passing 
them    through  creased  bag  filters;    on  the 
small  scale,  conical  flannel  bags  are  usually 
adopted.    Thick  syrups  filter  with  difficulty, 
hence  it  is  a  good  plan  to  dilute  them  before 
filtering,  and' afterwards  evaporate  them  to 
the  required  consistency.  For  small  quantities 
clarification  involves  less  trouble  than  filtra- 
tion.    (See  No.  1357.) 

1359.  To   make   a 
Take  a  square  piece  of 
flannel  or  Canton  flan- 
nel, fold  it  diagonally, 
and    sew   two    of  the 
corresponding  edges  to- 
gether with  an  over-lap 
seam,  leaving  the  other 
two  edges  open ;   then 
fold  the  open  edge  over, 
sufficiently  to  make  the 
opening  level.  (See  Fig. 
1.)    This  fold  gives  a 
considerable  degree  of 
stiffness    to    the    open 

end,  preventing  the  filter  in  some  measure 
from  collapsing.  Professor  Parrish,  in  his  book 
on  Practical  Pharmacy, 
recommends  the  use  of  a 
conical  wire  frame  (see 
Fig.  2)  to  support  the  fil- 
ter. The  frame  is  made  to 
fit  into  the  top  of  a  suita- 
ble tin  bucket,  being  sup- 
ported by  a  riin  or  flange 
around  the  top  of  the 
frame,  projecting  sufii-  m  2 

ciently  to  rest  on  the  edge 
of  the  bucket.    The  filter  must  fit  the  frame. 

1360.  Quantity  of  Sugar  Used  in 
Making  Syrups.  The  proper  quantity  o 
sugar  for  syrups  will,  in  general,  be  found  t( 
be"2  pounds  avoirdupois  to  every  pint  of  wa 


Conical    Filter. 


er  or  thin  aqueous  fluid.  These  proportions 
illow  for  the  water  that  is  lost  by  evaporation 
Luring  the  process,  and  are  those  best  calcu- 
ated  to  produce  a  syrup  of  the  proper  consist- 
ence, and  possessing  good  keeping  qualities. 
?hey  closely  correspond  to  those  recomrnend- 
5(1  by  Guibourt  for  the  production  of  a  perfect 
yrup,  which,  he  says,  consists  of  30  parts 
,ugar  to  10  parts  water.  To  make  highly 
rausparent  syrups  the  sugar  should  be  m  a 
-.ingle  lump,  and  by  preference  taken  from  the 
Bottom  or  broad  end  of  the  loaf;  as,  when 
;aken  from  the  smaller  end,  or  if  it  be  pow- 
lered  or  bruised,  the  syrup  will  be  more  or 
ess  cloudy. 

1361.  Amount  of  Heat  to  be  Em- 
ployed in  Making  Syrups.  In  the  prep- 
aration of  syrups  it  is  of  great  importance  to 
employ  as  little  heat  as  possible,  as  a  solution 
of  sugar,  even  when  kept  at  the  temperature 
>f  boiling  water,  undergoes  slow  decomposi- 
ion.  The  best  plan  is  to  pour  the  water 
cold)  over  the  sugar,  and  to  allow  the  two 
io  lie  together  for  a  few  hours,  in  a  covered 
vessel,  occasionally  stirring,  and  then  to  ap- 
}ly  a  gentle  heat,  preferably  that  of  steam  or 
i  water-bath,  to  finish  the  solution.  Some 
persons  (falsely)  deem  a  syrup  ill  prepared 
mless  it  has  been  allowed  to  boil  well ;  but  if 
this  method  be  adopted,  the  ebullition  should 
je  only  of  the  gentlest  kind  (simmering),  and 
;hould  bo  checked  after  the  lapse  of  one  or 
,wo  minutes.  When  it  is  necessary  to  thicken 
j,  syrup  by  boiling,  a  few  fragments  of  glass 
should  bo  introduced,  in  order  to  lower  the 
boiling  point.  In  boiling  syrups,  if  they  ap- 
pear likely  to  boil  over,  a  little  oil,  or  rubbing 
the  edge  of  the  pan  with  soap,  will  prevent  it. 
Syrups  arc  judged  by  the  manufacturer  to  bo 
sufficiently  boiled,  when  some  taken  up  in  a 
spoon  pours  out  like  oil ;  or,  a  drop  cooled  on 
the  thumb  nail  gives  a  proper  thread  when 
touched.  (Sec  No.  1368.)  When  a  thin  skin 
appears  on  blowing  upon  the  syrup,  it  is 
judged  to  be  completely  saturated.  These 
rude  tests  often  lead  to  errors,  which  might  be 
easily  prevented  by  employing  the  proper 
proportions,  or  determining  the  specific 
gravity. 

1362.    Table  of  Specific  Gravities  of 
Syrups. 

The  degrees  of  Baume  here  given  are  those 
of  his  heavy  saccharometer. 


Fig.  1. 


Sugar 
in  100  parts. 

Specific 
Gravity. 

Degrees 

Baume. 

0 

1.000   ' 

0° 

5 

1.020 

3 

10 

1.040 

6 

15 

1.062 

8 

20 

1.081 

11 

25       . 

1.104 

13.5 

30 

1.128 

16.3 

35 

1.152 

19 

40 

1.177 

21.6 

45 

1.204 

24.5 

50 

1.230 

27 

55 

1.257 

29.5 

60 

1.284 

32 

67 

1.321 

35 

The  latter  density  is  about  the  syrupus  of 
the  pharmacopoeias;  that  of  the  IT.  S.  Ph.  has  a 
sp.  grav.  1.317  ;  that  of  the  British  Ph.  is  1.330. 

SYRUPS. 


1363.  To  Determine  the  Density  of 
Syrup.     A  fluid  ounce  of  saturated  syrup 
weighs  577  £   grains;    a    gallon  weighs    13| 
pounds   avoirdupois;    its  specific   gravity  is 
1.319  to  1.321,  or  35°  Baume;  its  boiling  point 
is  221°  Pah.,  and  its  density  at  the  tempera- 
ture of  212°  is  1.260. to  1.261,  or  30°  Baume. 
The  syrups  prepared  with  the  juices  of  fruits 
mark  about  2°  or  3°  more  on  Baum6's  scale 
than  the  other  syrups.     (Coolcy.)    According 
to  Ure,  the  decimal  part  of  the  number  denot- 
ing the  specific  gravity  of  a  syrup,  multiplied 
by  26,  gives  the  number  of  pounds  of  sugar  it 
contains  per  gallon,  very  nearly. 

1364.  To  Preserve  Syrups.     The  pre- 
servation of  syrups,  as  well  as  of  all  saccharine 
solutions,  is  best  promoted  by  keeping  them 
in  a  moderately  cool,  but  not  a  very  cold  place. 
Let  syrups  be  kept  in  vessels  well  closed,  and 
in  a  situation  where  the  temperature  never 
rises  above  55°  Pah.    They  are  better  kept  in 
small  than  in  large  bottles,  as  the  longer  a 
bottle  lasts,  the  more  frequently  it  will  be 
opened,  and,  consequently,  the  more  it  will 
be  exposed  to  the  air.     By  bottling  syrups 
whilst  boiling  hot,  and  immediately  corking 
down  and  tying  the  bottles  over  with  blad- 
der, perfectly  air-tight,  they  may  be  preserved, 
even  at  a  summer  heat,  for  years,  without 
fermenting  or  losing  their  transparency. 

1365.  To  Prevent  Syrup  from  Candy- 
ing.     The    candying    or    crystallization    of 
syrup,  unless  it  be  over-saturated  with  sugar, 
may  bo  prevented  by  the  addition  of  a  little 
acetic  or  citric  acid  (2  or  3  drachms  per  gal- 
lon) ;  confectioners  add  a  little  cream  of  tartar 
to  the  sugar,  to  prevent  granulation. 

1366.  To  Prevent  Syrup  from  Fer- 
menting.    The  fermentation  of  syrups  may 
be  effectually  prevented  by  the  addition  of  a 
little  sulphite  of  potassa  or  of  lime.    A  cele- 
brated Prench  chemist  recommends  the  addi- 
tion of  about  3  to  4  per  cent,  sugar  of  rnilk, 
with  the  same  intention.     Fermenting  syrups 
may  be  immediately  restored  by  exposing  the 
vessel  containing  them  to  the  temperature  of 
boiling  water.     The  addition  of  a  little  spirit 
is  also  good. 

1367.  To  Bleach  Syrup.    Syrups  may 
be  decolored  by  agitation  with,  or  filtration 
through,  animal  charcoal. 

1368.  Degrees    of    Boiling    Sugar. 
In  preparing 'sugar  for  candies,  <fcc.,  the  con 
fectioner  requires  different  degrees  of  boiling 
in  order  to  bring  the  sugar  to  the  proper 
state  for  the   various   articles  he    prepares. 
Well  clarified  and  perfectly  transparent  syrup 
is  boiled  until  a  skimmer  dipped  into  it,  and  a 
portion  touched  between  the  forefinger  and 
thumb,  on   opening   them,  is  drawn  into   a 
small  thread  which   crystallizes  and  breaks. 
This  is  called  a  weak  candy  height. 

If  boiled  again,  it  will  draw  into  a  larger 
string,  and  if  bladders  may  be  blown  with  the 
mouth  through  the  drippings  from  the  ladle, 
it  has  acquired  the  second  degree,  and  is 
called  bloom  sugar. 

After  still  further  boiling,  it  arrives  at  the 
state  called  feathered  sugar.  To  determine 
this,  dip  the  skimmer  and  shake  it  over  the 
pan,  then  give  it  a  sudden  flirt  or  jerk,  and  the 
sugar  will  fly  off  like  feathers. 

The  next  degree  is  that  of  crackled  sugar,  in 
which  state  the  sugar  that  hangs  to  a  stick 


dipped  into  it,  and  put  directly  into  cold  wa- 
ter, is  not  dissolved  off,  but  turns  hard  and 
snaps. 

The  last  stage  of  boiling  reduces  it  to  cara- 
mel sugar,  and  is  proved  by  dipping  a  stick 
into  the  sugar  and  then  into  cold  water,  when, 
on  the  moment  it  touches  the  water,  it  will 
snap  like  glass.  It  has  now  arrived  at  a  full 
candy  height. 

Throughout  the  boiling,  the  fire  must  not 
be  too  fierce,  as  it  will  discolor  the  syrup. 
The  best  safeguard  against  this  is  the  use  of 
steam  heat.  Color  may  be  given  to  the 
candy  by  adding  the  coloring  matter  to  the 
syrup  before  boiling  it.  Flavoring  essences 
must  be  added  when  the  process  is  nearly 
complete. 

1369.  To  Make  Syrups  for  the  Man- 
ufacture of  Cordials  and  Liquors.    Take 
1  pint  of  water  to  every  2  pounds  of  sugar 
used ;  this  proportion  will  make  a  fine  syrup, 
about  32®  Baum6,  but  the  manufacturer  often 
requires  weaker  syrups  when  preparing  infe- 
rior cordials,  and  the  easiest  method  of  ascer- 
taining the  proper  point  of  concentration  is 
by  the  use  of  that  variety  of  Baum6's  hy- 
drometer, called  a  saccharometer.     Beat  up 
the  whites  of  2  eggs  (if  you  are  clarifying 
about  10  pounds  of  sugar,  or  mix  in  this  pro- 
portion), until  it  is  very  frothy,  and  then  mix 
in  with  the  rest. 

1370.  Plain  Syrup.     Put  into  a  very 
clean   copper,  100  pounds  loaf  sugar  and  3 
gallons  water;    take  the  white  of  12  good 
eggs,  whisk  them  up  to  a  froth  in  a  pan,  and 
put  them  into  a  copper  before  the  fire  is  light- 
ed ;  stir  them  well  in  the  sugar,  make  a  good 
fire,  and  let  the  mixture  be  still.    As  it  comes 
toward  boiling,  the  scurn  will  rise ;  be  par- 
ticular not  to  let  it  bubble  or  boil,  but  simmer ; 
as  soon  as  the  scum  is  seen  to  break  through 
the  edge  of  the  copper,  damp  the  fire,  and 
take  off  the  first  scum ;  then  stir  it  up  and 
let  it  simmer ;  keep  skimming  it  until  it  be- 
comes clear  and  bright,  and  the  scum  as  white 
as  milk ;  then  draw  your  fire,  and  take  it  out 
of  the  copper,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use.    The 
quantity  thus  made  will  be  10  gallons. 

1371.  Gum  Syrup.     Dissolve  20  pounds 
best  clear  white  gum-arabic  in  4  gallons  water 
nearly  boiling  hot;   take  60  pounds  sugar, 
melt  and  clarify  it  with  1  gallon  water,  add 
the  gum  solution,  and  boil  for  2  minutes. 

1372.  Raspberry  Syrup.     This  syrup 
is  sometimes  used  to  give  a  vinous  body  and 
flavor  to  brandy.    It  is  made  of  2  pints  filtered 
raspberry  juice,  and  4J  pounds  sugar.    Select 
the  fruit,  either  white  or  red.     Having  picked 
them  over,  mash  them  in  a  pan,  which  put  in 
a  warm  place  until  fermentation  has  com- 
menced.    Let  it  stand  for,  about  3  days.    All 
mucilaginous  fruits  require  this,  or  else  they 
would  jelly  when  bottled.    N"ow  filter  the 
juice  through  a  close  flannel  bag,  or  blotting- 
paper,  and  add  sugar  in  the  proportion  men- 
tioned above ;  this  had  better  be  powdered. 
Place  the  syrup  on'the  fire,  and  as  it  heats 
skim  it  carefully,  but  do  not  let  it  boil ;  or 
mix  it  in  a  glass  vessel  or  earthenware  jar, 
and'  place  in  a  pan  of  water  on  the  fire. 
(This  is  simply  a  water-bath.)    When  the 
syrup  is  dissolved,   so  that  when    you  dip 
your  fore-finger  in  it  and  apply  it  to  the  ball 
of  your  thumb,  and  then  separate  the  thumb 


SYRUPS. 


and  finger,  the  fine  thread  of  syrup  reaches 
from  each  without  breaking,  take  it  off;  strain 
through  a  cloth;  bottle  when  cold;  cover 
with  tissue  paper  dipped  in  brandy,  and  tie 
down  with  a  bladder  until  wanted  for  use. 

1373.  Imitation  Raspberry    Syrup. 
Dissolve  50  pounds  white  sugar  in  10  gallons 
water;    then  make  an  infusion  of  £   pound 
powdered  orris  root  in  5  gallon  boiling  water, 
in  a  covered  vessel,  stirring  occasionally  as  it 
cools,  and  when  cold,  filter  through  flannel ; 
stir  this  infusion  into  the  syrup;  then  stir  in 
i  pound  tartaric  acid  previously  dissolved  in  1 
quart  water.    Color  the  mixture  with  J  to  ^ 
gallon  cherry  juice,  using  more  or  less,  as  re- 
quired to   produce  the  desired  color.     This 
produces   a  splendid   imitation  of  raspberry 
syrup  at  a  comparatively  trifling  cost. 

1374.  Parrish's  Strawberry    Syrup. 
Take  4  quarts  fresh  fruit ;  express  the  juice, 
and  strain;   acid  water  until  it  measures  4 
pints.     Dissolve  8  pounds  raw  sugar  in  this 
by  the  aid  of  heat;  raise  it  to  the  boiling 
point,  and  strain.     If  it  is  to  be  kept  till  the 
following  season,  it  should  be  poured,  while 
hot,  into  dry  bottles,  filled  to  the  neck,  and 
securely  corked.    This  furnishes  a  key  for  the 
treatment  of  the  whole  family  of  fruit  juices. 

1375.  Lemon  Syrup.     Take  5  gallons 
lemon  juice,  1  ounce  best  oil  of  lemons  dis- 
solved in  k  pint  of  alcohol ;  or  the  rinds  of  16 
lemons  rubbed  with  sugar  to  extract  the  es- 
sential oil;    dissolve  80  pounds  of  sugar  in 
the  juice,  and  boil  for  2  minutes ;  skim,  then 
strain. 

1376.  Orgeat  Syrup.     Take  10  pounds 
sweet  almonds,   4  pounds    bitter    almonds; 
cover  them  with  boiling  hot  water ;  let  them 
stand  till  nearly  cold,  and  peel  them  by  press- 
ing through  your  fingers ;    beat  them  in  a 
stone  or  brass  mortar  to  a  very  fine  paste  with 
some    sugar,    adding    water    slowly ;    press 
through  a  linen  cloth,  so  as  to  get  5  gallons 
of  a  liquid  resembling  rich  milk ;  dissolve  in 
this  liquid  80  pounds  sugar;   boil  up  once, 
and  add  1  pint  orange-flower  water;    then 
strain. 

1377.  Arrack  Punch    Syrup.      Take 
53£  pounds  sugar ;    3J-  gallons  water.     Boil 
up  well,  then  add  1£  gallons  lemon  juice,  and 
stir  till  the  liquid  is  clear ;  pour  it  into  a  clean 
tub,  and,  when  nearly  cool,  add  5  gallons  Ba- 
tavia  arrack,  then  filter. 

1378.  Syrup  of  Coffee.    Take  10  pounds 
best  Java  coffee,  fresh  roasted  and  ground, 
and  6  gallons  boiling  water.     Let  it  stand, 

•  well  covered,  till  cool ;  strain  and  press ;  next 
dissolve  in  this  infusion  80  pounds  sugar;  boil 
and  skim  for  2  minutes,  and  then  strain. 

1379.  Cinnamon  Syrup.    Take  1  ounce 
oil  of  Ceylon  cinnamon,  rubbed  and  dried  up 
with  carbonate  of  magnesia  in  a  mortar,  so  as 
to  make  it  a  powder ;  put  it  in  a  filter  bag, 
and  pour  5  gallons  water  on  it ;  pour  the  wa- 
ter over  and  over  till  it  runs  clear;   get  in 
this  way  5  gallons  clear  high-flavored  water; 
dissolve  80  pounds  of  sugar  in  the  flavored 
water,  and  boil  for  2  minutes ;  then  skim  and 
strain. 

1380.  Sirop    Capillaire.      Maidenhair 
Syrup.     Take  1  pound  maidenhair  herb,  and 
5$-  gallons  boiling  water.     Macerate  till  cold ; 
strain  without  pressing,  so  as  to  get  5  gallons; 
take  the  whites  of  3  eggs  beaten  to  froth,  and 


mix  them  with  the  infusion;  keep  back  a 
quart  of  the  liquid ;  then  dissolve  and  boil  in 
the  above  80  pounds  sugar  by  a  good  heat ; 
when  the  scum  rises,  put  m  a  little  from  the 
quart  of  cold  liquid,  and  this  will  make  the 
scum  settle ;  let  it  raise  and  settle  3  times ; 
then  skim,  and  when  perfectly  clear  add  £ 
pint  orange-flower  water ;  then  boil  once  up 
again  and  strain. 

1381.  Cherry  Syrup.     Take  5  gallons 
cherry  juice;  let  it  ferment  a  few  days;  dis- 
solve  and  boil  80  pounds  of  sugar ;   when 
clear,  skim  and  strain. 

1382.  Syrup    of  Orange    Peel.     Re- 
duce 2  ounces   dried  orange  peel   to  coarse 
powder,  put  it  in  a  small  glass  percolator,  and 
pour  deodorized   alcohol  slowly  on  it  till  6 
fluid  ounces  of  tincture  have  passed  :  evapo- 
rate  this  spontaneously   to  2  fluid   ounces ; 
triturate  this  with  k  ounce  carbonate  of  mag- 
nesia,   1    ounce  sugar  and  -J  a  pint  water 
gradually  added;    pour  this  on  a  filter,  and 
when  it  ceases  to  pass,  add  water  till  a  pint  of 
filtrate  is  obtained ;   to  this  add  2-J  pounds 
sugar ;  dissolve  with  a  gentle  heat,  and  strain 
if  necessary. 

1383.  Punch  Syrup.     Digest  8  ounces 
fresh  lemon  peel  cut    in  small    pieces   and 
bruised,  in  12  ounces  Jamaica  rum  for  3  days, 
and  strain.     Mix  28  ounces  strained  lemon 
juice  with  18  ounces  rum ;  allow  it  to  settle, 
and  filter  through  paper.     Dissolve  5  pounds 
powdered  white  sugar  in  42  ounces  rum  at  a 
gentle  heat,  and  when  cool,  mix  all  the  liquids 
together.     This  is  in  no  way  inferior  to  the 
most  celebrated  European  punch  syrups. 


Syrups  for  Soda  or  Min- 
eral Waters.  The  following 
is  a  collection  of  well  approved  receipts  for 
flavoring  mineral  waters,  selected  principally 
from  the  "Druggist's  Circular  and  Chemical 
Gazette."  Most  of  the  syrups  not  made  from 
fruits  may  have  a  little  gum-arabic  added,  in 
order  to  produce  a  rich  froth  when  the  soda 
water  is  added. 

1385.  Simple    Syrup.      To  8  pounds 
finest  white  sugar,  add  2  quarts  water  and  the 
whites  of  2  eggs ;   stir  until  all  the  sugar  is 
dissolved ;  simmer  for  2  or  3  minutes ;  skim 
well,  and  strain  through  a  fine  flannel  bag. 
The  following  syrups  for  soda  water  may  be 
produced  by  employing  the  above  syrup  as  a 
basis.   A  variety  of  other  syrups  may  be  made 
in  the  same  way  by  using  the  artificial  fruit 
essences.     (See  No.  1045,  also  last  receipt.) 

1386.  Simple  Syrup.     White  sugar,  10 
pounds ;   water,  1  gallon ;   isinglass  (best),  J 
ounce  (or,  the  white  of  an  egg).     Dissolve 
the  isinglass  in  hot  water,  and  add  it  to  the 
hot  syrup.     The  syrup  is  to  be  made  with 
gentle  heat,  and  then  strained. 

1387.  Lemon    Syrup.     Add  to  simple 
syrup,  when  cold,  20  drops  fresh  oil  of  lemon 
and  A  ounce  citric  acid  (previously  dissolved 
in  3  ounces  water)  to  each  gallon.    Mix  by 
shaking  well  in  a  bottle,  then  add  4  ounces 
gum  solution,  made  by  dissolving  2  ounces 
fine  white  gum-arabic    in    2    ounces   warm 
water. 


SYSUPS. 


14.3 


1388.  Lemon    Syrup.     Grate  off  the 
yellow  rind  of  lemons,  and  beat  it  up  with  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  granulated  sugar.     Ex- 
press the  lemon  juice,  add  1  pint  water  to 
each  pint  of  juice  and  3i  pounds  granulated 
sugar,  including  that  rubbed  up  with  the  rind ; 
warm  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  strain. 

1389.  Sarsaparilla  Syrup.    To  1  gal- 
lon simple  syrup  add  10  drops  oil  of  anise,  20 
drops  oil  of  wiutergreen,  20  drops  oil  of  sassa- 
fras, and  6  ounces  caramel,  or  coloring.  Before 
the  oils  are  added  to  the  syrup,  they  should  be 
cut  by  grinding  them  in  a  mortar,  with  as 
much  sugar  as  they  will  moisten,  or  mixed 
with  a  small  quantity  of  strong  alcohol. 

1390.  SarsapariUa  Syrup.      Take  oil 
of  wintergreen,    10   drops;    oil  of   anise,  10 
drops ;  oil  of  sassafras.  10  drops ;  fluid  extract 
of  sarsaparilla,  2     ounces;    simple   syrup,   5 
pints  ;  powdered  extract  of  liquorice,  k  ounce ; 
mix  well. 

1391.  Parrish's  Syrup  of  Sarsaparilla 
for  Mineral  Waters.     Take  simple  syrup, 

4  pints;  compound  syrup  of  sarsaparilla,  4  fluid 
ounces;    caramel,  li  ounces;   oil  of  winter- 
green,  6  drops ;  oil  of  sassafras,  6  drops ;  mix. 

1392.  Ginger  Syrup.     Bruised  Jamaica 
ginger,    2    ounces;     boiling  water,   1    pint; 
macerate  for  4  hours ;  add  fine  white  sugar,  2 
pounds,  "and  strain  through  a  fine  flannel  bag. 
Ginger  syrup  may  also  be  made  by  adding  2 
ounces  extract  of  ginger  to  1  gallon  simple 
syrup. 

1393.  Ginger    Syrup.      Tincture    of 
ginger,  2  fluid  ounces ;  simple  syrup,  4  pints ; 
mix. 

1394.  Vanilla  Syrup.  Vanilla,  6 
drachms ;  boiling  water,  4£  pints ;  sugar,  4 
pounds  avoirdupois.  Reduce  the  vanilla  to 
fine  powder  by  trituration  with  a  portion  of 
the  sugar ;  boil  this  with  water  for  2  hours  in 
a  covered  vessel,  then  strain. 

1395.  Vanilla    Syrup.     Fluid  extract 
of  vanilla,    1   ounce;    citric  acid,  £  ounce; 
simple  syrup,  1   gallon;    rub  the  acid  with 
some. of  the  syrup,  add  the  extract  of  vanilla, 
and  mix. 

1396.  Wild  Cherry   Syrup.     Steep  4 
ounces  wild  cherry  bark,  well  bruised,  in  1 
pint  cold  water,  for  36  hours;  press  out  the 
infusion;  let  it  stand  till  clear;    decant,  and 
add  li  pounds  fine  white  sugar;    mix  and 
strain. 

1397.  Wild  Cherry  Syrup.     Moisten 

5  ounces  wild  cherry  bark,  in  coarse  powder, 
with  water,  and  let  it  stand  for  24  hours  in  a 
close  vessel.     Then  pack  it  firmly  in  a  perco- 
lator, and  pour  water  upon  it  until  1  pint  of 
fluid  is  obtained.     To  this  add  28  ounces  sugar. 

1398.  Strawberry  Syrup.     Take  fresh 
strawberries  and  inclose  them  in  a  coarse  bag ; 
press  out  the  juice,  and  to  each  quart  add  1 
pint  water  and  6  pounds  white  sugar ;  dissolve 
by  raising  it  to  the  boiling  point,  and  strain; 
bottle  and  cork  hot,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

1399.  Strawberry  Syrup.     Take  fresh 
strawberries,  5  quarts ;  white  sugar,  12  pounds ; 
water,  1  pint.    Sprinkle  some  of  the  sugar  over 
the  fruit  in  layers,  and  allow  the  whole  to 
stand  for  several  hours ;  express  the  juice  and 
strain,    washing  out    the    pulp  with   water; 
add  the  remainder  of  sugar  and  water,  bring 
the  fluid  to  the  point  of  boiling,  and  then 
strain.    This  will  keep  for  a  long  time. 


1400.  Strawberry  Syrup.    Strawberry 
juice,  1  pint ;  simple  syrup,  3  pints ;  solution 
of  citric  acid  (see  Fruit  Acid),  2  drachms; 
mix. 

1401.  Fruit  Acid  (used  in  some  of  the 
syrups).       Citric    acid,   4   ounces;    water,   8 
ounces. 

1402.  Strawberry    Syrup    Without 
the  Fruit.     Add  to  1  gallon  simple  syrup,  2, 
tea-spoonfuls  essence  of  strawberry,   and  j' 
ounce    tartaric  acid.      Color    with    coloring 
made  as  follows :  Boil  1  ounce  cochineal  with 
i  tea-spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar.    Strain. 

1403.  Raspberry  Syrup.     Make   as 
directed  for  strawberry  syrup,  either  with  the 
fruit  or  the  essence.    The  flavor  of  this  syrup 
is  improved  by  using  1  pint  currants  to  5  of 
raspberries. 

1404.  Blackberry    Syrup.      Make  as 
directed  for  straw  berry,  and  add  to  each  quart 
1  ounce  of  the  best  French  brandy. 

1405.  Pineapple  Syrup.    Take  a  con- 
venient number  of  pineapples,  pare  and  mash 
them  in  a  marble  or  porcelain  mortar,  with  a 
small  quantity  of  sugar ;  express  the  juice, 
and  for  each  quart  take  li  pints  water  and  6 
pounds  fine  sugar ;  boil  the  sugar  and  water, 
then  add  the  juice ;  remove  from  the  fire,  and 
skim  and  strain.     Or  make  it  with  the  es- 
sence, as  directed  for  strawberry.    (See  No. 
1402.) 

1406.  Pineapple  Syrup.     Oil  of  pine- 
apple, 1   drachm ;    tartaric   acid,  1   drachm ; 
simple  syrup,  6  pints ;  mix.     Or :  Take  1  gal- 
lon   expressed    pineapple    juice;    sugar,   15 
pounds;   fruit  acid  (see  No.  1401),  2  ounces; 
mix. 

1407.  Wintergreen  Syrup.      Oil   of 
wintergreen,  25  drops ;  simple  syrup,  5  pints ; 
sufficient  burnt  sugar  to  color  (see  No.  694); 
mix. 

1408.  Maple    Syrup.      Take    maple 
sugar,  4  pounds ;  water,  2  pints. 

1409.  Chocolate  Syrup.     Mix  8  ounces 
chocolate  in  2  pints  water,  and  stir  thoroughly 
over  a  slow  fire.    Strain,  and  add  4  pounds 
white  sugar. 

1410.  Orange    Syrup.      Take  a  con- 
venient number  of  fresh  and  ripe  oranges,  grate 
off  the  outside  yellow  peel ;  cut  the  oranges 
and  express  the  juice ;  and  to  each  quart  add 
1  pint  water  and  6  pounds  sugar,  previously 
well  mixed  with  the  grated  peel.    Dissolve  by 
gentle  heat,  then  strain. 

1411.  Pear  Syrup.     Make  as  directed 
for  pineapple  syrup,  or  use  the  essence  of  pear, 
by  adding  to  each  gallon  of  simple  syrup  2 
tea-spoonfuls  essence  of  pear  and  i  ounce  of 
tartaric  acid. 

1412.  Apple  Syrup.     Make  as  directed 
for  pineapple  syrup ;  or  with  the  appropriate 
fruit  essence  aud  acid,  as  above. 

1413.  Banana  Syrup.   Make  as  directed 
for  pineapple  syrup ;  or  with  the  appropriate 
fruit  essence,  as  before  directed.  (SeeNo.  1402.) 
Or:  Take  oil  of  banana,  2  drachms;  tartaric 
acid,  1  drachm ;  simple  syrup,  6  pints ;  mix. 

1414.  Grape  Syrup.     Brandy,  i  pint; 
spirits  of  lemon,  J-  ounce;   tincture  of  red 
saunders,  2  ounces;   simple  syrup,  1  gallon. 
Mix. 

1415.  Orgeat  Syrup.    Take  3  ounces 
sweet  almonds  and  ^  ounce  bitter  almonds ; 
gum-arabic    in  powder,   i  ounce;    sugar  in 


ALCOHOL, 


powder,  3  ounces.  Bub  together  in  a  mortar 
adding  water  from  time  to  time,  until  th 
mixture  measures  1  quart.  Strain  through  ; 
cloth,  and  mix  with  1  gallon  of  simple  syrup 

1416.  Imitation  Orgeat  Syrup.   Cream 
syrup,  1  pint;  vanilla  syrup,  1  pint;   oil  o 
bitter  almonds,  4  drops.     Or:  About  2  drachm 
imitation  cream  syrup  (sec  No.  1430)  are  t< 
be  mixed  with  2  ounces  simple  syrup  and 
flavored  with  bitter  almond  and  orange-nowe: 
waters. 

1417.  Orange-Flower  Syrup.    Addtc 
1  gallon  simple  syrup  h  ounce  extract  of  or 
ange  flowers. 

1418.  Coffee  Syrup.    Coflee,  roasted,  J 
pound;  boiling  water,  1  gallon.     Enough  i 
filtered  to  make  i  gallon  of  the  infusion,  to 
which  add  granulated  sugar,  7  pounds. 

1419.  Nectar  Syrup.  Strawberry  syrup, 
•£  pint ;  Madeira  wine,  1  ounce ;  orgeat  syrup^ 
i  pint.  •  Mix. 

1420.  Nectar  Syrup.    Vanilla  syrup,  5 
pints;  pineapple  syrup,  1  pint;   strawberry, 
raspberry,  or  lemon  syrup,  2  pints.    Mix. 

1421.  Sherbet  Syrup.     Yanilla  syrup, 
3    pints;    pineapple    syrup,   1    pint;    lemon 
syrup,  1  pint.    Mix. 

1422.  Ambrosia    Syrup.      Raspberry 
Byrup,  2  pints;  vanilla  syrup,  2  pints;  Hock 
wine,  4  ounces.    Mix. 

1423.  Hock  and  Claret  Syrup.    Hock 
or  claret  wine,  1  pint ;  simple  syrup,  2  pints. 
Mix. 

1424.  Solferino    Syrup.      Brandy,    1 
pint ;  simple  syrup,  2  pints.     Mix. 

1425.  Cream  Syrups.     These  are  pre- 
pared by  mixing  highly  flavored  syrups  with 
fresh  cream.     As  this  latter  does  not  keep 
well,  it  is  a  more  economical  plan  to  make  a 
simple  cream  syrup  in  suitable  quantities,  and 
to  add  a  portion  of  it  to  the  flavored  syrup  as 
required.     This  prevents  the  loss  of  different 
flavored  syrups  by  spoiling,  and  allows  of  the 
cream  being  used  for  any  flavored  syrup. 

1426.  Simple  Cream  Syrup.     Mix  to- 
gether thoroughly  1  pound  powdered  sugar 
with  1  pint  fresh  cream.    Keep  it  in  pint  bot- 
tles for  use. 

1427.  Taylor's  Cream  Syrup.    Fresh 
cream,  i  pint;  fresh  milk,  &  pint;  powdered 
sugar,  1  pound.    Mix  by  shaking,  and  keep 
in  a  cool  place.    The  addition  of  a  few  grains 
of  bicarbonate  of  soda  will  for  some  time  re- 
tard souring. 

1428.  Hubbell's  Cream  Syrup.    This 
is  prepared  with  If  pounds  sugar  to  1  pint  of 
cream. 

1429.  Cream    Syrup.     Take    of  fresh 
cream,  1  pint;  fresh  milk,  1  pint;  fine  pow- 
dered sugar,  3  pounds;  beat  the  sugar  with 
the  milk  and  the  whites  of  2  eggs,  then  mix 
with  the  cream.     Flavor  with  vanilla,  lemon, 
or  strawberry.     Keep  in  a  cool  place,  well 
bottled. 

1430.  Imitation  Cream  Syrup.    Make 
an  emulsion  with  3  fluid  ounces  fresh  oil  of 
sweet  almonds,  2  ounces  powdered  gum-ara- 
bic, and  9  ounces  water ;  then  dissolve  1  pound 
white  sugar  by  a  gentle  heat,   strain,   and 
when  cool,   add  the  whites  of  2  eggs.    It 
should  be  put  up  in  small  bottles,  well  corked, 
in  a  cool  place.    This  is  not  only  an  excellent 
imitation  and  substitute  for  cream  syrup,  but 
will  keep  well  for  a  considerable  time. 


1431.  Cream  Syrup.     Take  cf   fresh 
unskimmed  milk,  1  pint;   sugar,  2  pounds, 
Troy.     Dissolve  by  shaking  in  a  bottle,  add  £ 
of  this  to  J  of  any  of  the  fruit  syrups ;  or,  for 
vanilla  cream,  add  about  a  table-spoonful  of 
fluid  extract  of  vanilla  to  1  pint. 

1432.  Vanilla   Cream  Syrup.     Fluid 
extract  of  vanilla,  1  ounce ;  simple  syrup,  3 
pints;    cream   (or  condensed  milk),  1  pint. 
May  be  colored  with  carmine. 

1433.  Coffee  Cream  Syrup.      Coflee 
syrup,  2  pints ;  Cream,  1  pint. 

1434.  Nectar  Cream  Syrup.    This  is 
a  mixture  of  3  parts  vanilla  syrup,  1  part 
pineapple  syrup,  1  part  lemon  syrup,  and  1 
part  simple  cream  syrup. 


AlCOllOl.  Alcohol  is  a  light,  trans- 
JL~jLparent,  colorless,  volatile,  inflammable 
fluid;  mixes  in  all  proportions  with  water, 
with  evolution  of  heat  and  condensation  of 
the  mixture,  but  some  hours  elapse  before  the 
union  is  complete.  It  dissolves  resins,  essen- 
tial oils  (see  No.  940),  camphor,  bitumen, 
soaps,  sugar,  the  alkaloids,  wax,  spermaceti, 
and  various  other  substances.  Boils  at  172°, 
and  in  a  vacuum  at  56°  Fahr.;  curdles  milk ; 
coagulates  albumen,  and  separates  both  starch 
and  gum  from  their  mucilages ;  uncongealable 
jy  cold;  powerfully  antiseptic  to  animal  or 
vegetable  substances  immersed  in  it;  with 
acids  it  forms  ethers.  Its  evaporation,  like  that 
of  ether,  produces  intense  cold.  By  undergoing 
the  acetic  fermentation  it  is  converted  into 
vinegar.  Dilute  alcohol  may  be  procured  by 
the  ordinary  process  of  distillation,  from  all 
'ermented  liquors ;  when  drawn  from  wine,  as 
n  France,  it  is  called  brandy ;  when  from  rice, 
as  in  the  East  Indies,  it  is  called  arrack  or 
toddy;  when  from  grain  or  malt,  as  in  the 
Jnited  States  or  Great  Britain,  it  is  called 
whiskey,  and  when  from  molasses  or  the  juice 
of  the  sugar-cane,  as  in  the  "West  Indies,  it  is 
;alled  rum. 

"Whiskey  is  the  spirit  from  which  alcohol  is 
usually  obtained  in  this  country. 

By  distilling  a  hundred  gallons  of  whiskey, 
)etween  50  and  60  gallons  of  alcohol  are  re- 
ceived in  the  condenser  of  a  specific  gravity 
jf  0.835.  By  a  second  distillation,  taking 
mre  to  collect  only  the  first  portions,  and 
cautiously  managing  the  heat  so  as  not  to 
allow  it  to  rise  to  the  temperature  of  boiling 
water,  alcohol  may  be  obtained  of  a  specific 
gravity  of  0.825,  which  is  the  lightest  spirit 
;hat  can  be  received  by  ordinary  distillation. 
At  this  stage  it  contains  11  per  cent,  of  wa- 
er  and  some  small  portions  of  fusel  oil. 

The  best  alcohol  is  that  manufactured  under 
Attwood's  patent  process,  in  which  manganic 
icid  is  used  to  destroy  the  fusel  oil  and  other 
oreign  substances.  This  alcohol  withstands 
he  tests  of  nitrate  of  silver  and  sulphuric 
acid  remarkably  well.  (Sec  No.  1444.) 

The  high  wine,  or  rectified  spirit,  distilled 
and  rectified  in  the  United  States,  and  often 
old  as  French  pure  spirit,  is  free  from  all 
.eleterious  substances,  and  nearly  scentless, 
ts  strength  is  usually  from  84  to  95  per  cent. 
Sec  Nns.  53,  #c.) 

1436.  Proof  Spirit  contains  52£  per  cent. 
iy  volume  of  pure  alcohol;  has  a  specific 


ALCOHOL. 


gravity  of  .920  at  60°  Fahr.;  and  is  no  more 
than  a  mixture  of  49  parts  by  -weight  pare 
alcohol  with  51  parts  water.  This  is  the 
strength  of  the  proof  spirit  usually  employed 
by  perfumers,  and  for  medicinal  purposes; 
but  by  law  (see  No.  58),  proof  spirit  is  equal 
parts  by  volume  of  absolute  alcohol  and  dis- 
tilled water,  having  a  specific  gravity  of  .933. 

1437.  Dilute  Alcohol.  Alcohol  dilutum 
(  U.  S.  Ph.)  consists  of  equal  measures  of  offi- 
cinal alcohol  and  water;  it  contains  39  per 
cent,  by  weight,  or  46.33  per  cent,  by  volume, 
of  pure  or  absolute  alcohol,  and  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  .941,  equal  to  19°  of  Baum6's  light 
hydrometer. 

1438.  Alcohol.     Officinal  alcohol  ( U.  S. 
Ph.)  contains  85  per  cent,  by  weight,  or  89  per 
cent,  by  volume,  of  pure  alcohol ;  its  specific 
gravity  is  .835,  or  38.45°  Baume. 

1439.  Stronger  Alcohol.    Alcohol  for- 
tius  (  U.  S.  Ph.)  has  92  per  cent,  by  weight,  or 
94.65  per  cent,  by  volume,  of  pure  alcohol ; 
and  a  specific  gravity  of  .817,  or  about  42° 
Baume. 

1440.  Amylic    Alcohol.     A    peculiar 
oily,  nearly  colorless  acrid  liquid,  known  also 
as  Fusel  oil,  obtained  by  distilling  fermented 
grain  or  potatoes,  by  continuing  the  process 
after  the*  ordinary  spirit  has  ceased  to  come 
over.    Its  specific  gravity  is  .818,  and  its  boil- 
ing point  268°  to  272°  Fahr.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

1441.  Absolute  Alcohol.    To  procure 
absolute  or  anhydrous  alcohol,  take  the  bladder 
of  an  ox  or  calf,  soak  it  for  some  time  in 
water,  then  inflate  it  and  carefully  free  it 
from  the  attached  fat  and  vessels ;  this  must 
be  done  on  both  sides.      After  it  is  again 
inflated  and  dried,  smear  over  the  outer  sur- 
face twice,  and  the  inner  surface  four  times, 
with  a  solution  of  isinglass.    Then  nearly  fill 
it  with  the  spirit  to  be  concentrated,  leaving 
only  a  small  space  vacant ;  it  is  then  to  be 
securely  fastened,  and  suspended  in  a  warm 
situation,   at   a  temperature  of   about  122° 
Fahr.,  over  a  sand  bath,  or  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  an  oven  or  fire.    In  six  to  twelve 
hours,  if  the  heat  be.  properly  conducted,  the 
spirit  will  be  concentrated,  and  in  a  little 
time  longer  may  be  rendered 

nearly  free  from  water  (an- 
hydrous) or  of  the  strength 
of  97  or  98  per  cent. 

This  alcohol  will  be  suffi- 
ciently pure  for  all  the  com- 
mon purposes  of  the  man- 
ufacturers, and  is  an  excel- 
lent spirit  for  making  var- 
nishes, <fec. 

The  same  bladder  will 
serve  more  than  one  hun- 
dred times;  and  in  fact  a 
common  bladder,  thorough- 
ly cleansed  from  fat,  and 
washed  and  dried,  may  be 
used  without  any  further 
preparation.  The  bladder 
should  be  kept  very  nearly 
full,  or  else  a  portion  of  the 
spirit  will  escape  through 
the  empty  part.  To  pre- 
vent this  accident,  a  bottle 
with  a  double  neck,  of  the  shape  represented 
in  the  engraving,  may  be  employed.  By  this 
means  the  bladder  may  be  kept  always  full. 


A,  A  bottle  with  two   necks,  the    upper 
furnished  with  a  ground-glass  stopper. 

B,  Loop  of  cord  to  hang  up  the  apparatus. 

C,  Bladder    containing    spirit,    rilled    by 
means  of  the  bottle,  A. 

D,  Neck  of  bladder  accurately  secured  to 
the  lower  neck  of  the  bottle,  A. 

After  the  first  or  second  time  of  using  the 
bladder,  it  gives  alcohol  sufficiently  pure  for 
most  experimental  purposes.  Before  hanging 
the  apparatus  up,  it  is  better  to  enclose  and 
suspend  it  in  a  coarse  netting,  which  will  pre- 
vent any  accident  arising  from  the  strain  on 
the  neck  of  the  bladder.  Should  weaker  spirit 
than  that  directed  in  the  preceding  formula 
be  used,  to  procure  alcohol  by  either  method,  it 
must  be  previously  concentrated,  or  the  ope- 
ration repeated  a  second  time. 

Absolute  alcohol  is  used  to  dissolve  resins 
by  the  varnish  maker ;  essential  oils,  by  the 
perfumer;  pyroxyline  (gum  cotton),  by  the 
photographer;  and  by  the  pharmaceutist  to 
prepare  tinctures  and  for  many  other  pur- 
poses. 

1442.  Chemical  Method  of  Procuring 
Absolute  Alcohol.    Take  1  gallon  of  the 
alcohol  of  commerce ;  throw  1  pound  freshly 
made  chloride  of  calcium  into  the  alcohol,  and. 
as  Boon  as  it  is  dissolved,  distill  off  7  pints  and 
5  fluid  ounces.     Or,  take  of  rectified  spirit  1 
imperial  pint;  lime,  18  ounces;  break  the  lime 
into  small  fragments,  mix  with  the  alcohol  in 
a  retort  properly  connected,  and  expose  the 
mixture  to  a  gentle  heat  until  the  lime  begins 
to  slake;   then  withdraw  the  heat  until  the 
slaking  is  finished.    Now  raise  the  heat  gently 
and  distill  off  17  fluid  ounces.      Alcohol  thus 
obtained  will  have  a  density,  when  the  ope- 
ration is  carefully  managed,  of  0.796. 

1443.  To  increase  the   Strength  of 
Common.  Alcohol.     Take  a  pint  of  common 
spirits,  and  put  it  into  a  bottle  which  it  will 
only  fill  about  i  full.      Add  to  it  £  ounce 
pearlash  or  salt  of  tartar,  powdered  as  much 
as  it  can  be  without  occasioning  any  great 
loss  of  its  heat.     Shake  the  mixture  frequent- 
ly for  about  half  an  hour,  before  which  time 
a  considerable  sediment,  like  phlegm,  will  be 
separatedfromthe  spirits,  and  will  appear  along 
with  the  undissolved  pearlash  or  salt  at  the 
bottom  of  the  bottle.    Then  pour  the  spirit  off 
into  another  bottle,  being  careful  to  bring 
none  of  the  sediment  or  salt  along  with  it. 
For   this   purpose    an   instrument    called  a 
separating  funnel  is  well  adapted.    To  the 
quantity  just  poured  off  add  •£  ounce  pearlash, 
powderea  and  heated  as  before,  and  repeat 
the  same  treatment.    Continue  to  do  this  as 
often  as  necessary,  till  little  or  no  sediment 
forms ;  when  this  is  the  case,  1  ounce  of  alum, 
powdered  and  made  hot,  but  not  burned,  must 
be  put  into  the  spirits,  and  suffered  to  remain 
some  hours,  the  bottle  being  frequently  shaken 
during  the  time ;  after  which  the  spirit,  when 
poured  off,  will  be  found  free  from  all  impu- 
rities, and  equal  to  the  best  rectified  spirits 
of  wine. 

1444.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Alcohol. 
The  presence  of  water  may  be  detected  by 
its  specific  gravity.    Fusel  oil  may  be  de- 
tected by   adding  a  little  of  a  solution  of 
nitrate  of  silver  to  the  alcohol.    Dissolve  10 
grains  nitrate  of  silver  in  1  ounce  of  pure  dis- 
tilled water.    Then  take  half  a  tumblerful  of 


ALCOHOL. 


the  suspected  liquor  and  drop  into  it  25 
drops  of  the  above  solution;  and  if  the 
liquid  should  contain  any  grain  oil,  it  will 
assume  the  form  of  a  black  powder  and 
float  on  the  surface.  The  action  of  this  test 
is  not  always  immediate,  for  it  is  sometimes 
necessary  to  wait  from  1  to  30  hours  when 
testing  a  sample  of  alcohol  which  has  been 
well  rectified,  before  any  evidence  of  the  oil  or 

Eowder  can   be  perceived    floating   on   the 
quid,  and  even  then  it  is  necessary  to  expose 
the  glass  to  a  strong  light  before  the  powder 
can  be  discovered. 

For  detecting  fusel  oil  in  alcohol,  Mr.  E.  N. 
Kent  finds  pure  sulphuric  acid  the  best  test. 
Half  fill  a  test  tube  with  the  spirit  to  be 
tested,  then  fill  up  slowly  with  pure  concen- 
trated sulphuric  acid.  Pure  spirit  remains 
colorless;  impure  spirit  becomes  colored  in 
proportion  to  the  amount  of  fusel  oil  present. 
1  per  cent,  of  wood  spirit  (wood  naphtha)  in 
alcohol,  will  cause  it  to  turn  yellow  or  brown 
with  the  addition  of  caustic  potassa.  Pure 
alcohol  is  neutral  to  test  paper;  should  be 
colorless;  will  evaporate  entirely  by  heat; 
retains  its  transparency  when  combined  with 
water  or  ether ;  tastes  and  smells  vinous. 

1445.  To  Free  Alcohol  from  Fusel 
Oil.    This  may  be  effected  by  digesting  the 
alcohol  with  charcoal.     By  Schaefier's  method 
the  alcohol  is  filtered  through  alternate  layers 
of  sand,  wood-charcoal,   boiled  wheat,   and 
broken  oyster  shells ;  this  removes  all  other 
impurities  as  well.    The  fusel  oil  can  be  ex- 
tracted from  small  quantities  of  alcohol,  by 
adding  a  few  drops  of  olive  oil  to  the  spirit, 
agitating  thoroughly  in  a  bottle,  and,  after 
settling,  decanting.    The  olive  oil  dissolves 
and  retains  the  fusel  oil. 

1446.  To  Deodorise  Whiskey  or  Al- 
cohol and  free  it  from  Fusel  Oil.    To  the 
barrel  of  liquor  add  abeut  a  gallon  (or  more) 
of  water  saturated  with    chlorine;  stir  up 
thoroughly,  and  let  it  rest  for  12  hours.    Then 
saturate  with  chalk;  add  another  gallon  of 
water,  and  distill. 

1447.  To  Filter  Alcohol.    The  follow- 
ing method  of  filtering  alcohol,  or  its  solutions, 
is  said  to  be  very  satisfactory,  and  is  used  ex- 
tensively in  North  Germany,  where  it  consti- 
tutes one  of  the  secrets  of  the  trade.     Clean, 
unsized  paper  (Swedish  filtering  paper  is  the 
best),  is  torn  into  shreds  and  stirred  into  the 
liquid  to  be  clarified.     The  whole  is  then 
strained  through  a  flannel  bag,  when  the  re- 
sulting liquid  will  be  found  to  possess  the 
utmost  clearness  and  limpidity.     A  filter  may 
also  be  made  by  spreading  thin  paper  pulp 
evenly  upon  stretched  flannel  or  woolen  cloth. 
"When  dry,  the  cloth  so  coated  will  be  found 
to  give  better  results  than  the  felts,  etc.,  com- 
monly employed  as  filters.     (See  Nos.  714  and 
811.) 

1448.  To  Test  the  Strength  of  Alco- 
hol.    Alcohol  dissolves  chloroform,  so  that 
when  a  mixture  of  alcohol  and  water  is  shaken 
up  with  chloroform,  the  alcohol  and  chloroform 
unite,  leaving  the  water  separate.     On  this 
fact    Basile    Rakowitsch,    of    the    Imperial 
Russian  Navy,  has  founded   his  invention. 
The  instrument  he  uses  is  a  graduated  glass 
tube   into    which  a   measured    quantity    of 
chloroform  is  poured,  and  to  this  is  added  a 
given  quantity  of  the  liquid  to  be  tested; 


these  are  well  mixed  together  and  then  left  to 
subside ;  the  chloroform  takes  up  the  alcohol 
and  leaves  the  water,  which,  being  lighter 
than  the  chloroform,  will  float  on  the  top ; 
and  the  quantity  of  water  that  has  been  mixed 
with  the  spirit  will  be  at  once  seen. 

1449.  Arithmetical   Rules  for   the 
Treatment   of   Alcohol.      The  following 
excellent  rules,  derived  from  various  sources, 
contain,  and  will  yield  to  the  manufacturer, 
much  information  of  a  very  useful  character. 

1450.  To  Ascertain  the  Cost  of  any 
Quantity  of  Alcohol  at  any  Degree  or 
Percentage  of  Strength  Above  or  Be- 
low Proof.     Alcohol  is  always  bought  and 
sold  at  so  much  above  or  below  proof.     To 
ascertain  the  price  of  a  quantity  of  alcohol, 
add  the  percentage  over  proof,  or  deduct  the 
percentage  under  proof,  and  multiply  by  the 
price  per  gallon.    Thus :  what  will  40  gallons 
of  alcohol,  25  per  cent,  over  proof,  cost  at  28 
cents  proof?    We  first  find  25  per  cent,  of  40, 
which  is  10 ;  we  then  add  that  number  to  40, 
the  number  of  gallons,  and  we  get  50 ;   we 
then  multiply  50  by  28,  the  price  per  gallon 
proof,  and  get  $14.00,  or  35  cents  per  gallon. 
Again,  what  will  40  gallons  alcohol,  25  per 
cent  under  proof,  cost,  at  28  cents  per  gallon 
proof?    Again,  we  find  that  25  per  cent,  of  40 
is  10  ;  we  then  deduct  10  from  40,  this  leaves 
us  30;  by  multiplying  30  by  28  we  get  $8.40, 
or  21  cents  per  gallon. 

1451.  To  Ascertain  How  Much  Wa- 
ter Should  be  Added  to  Spirits,  to  Re- 
duce it  from  a  Given  Degree  of  Strength 
to  a  Lower  Degree   or  Percentage  of 
Strength.      The    manufacturer  may  some- 
times find  it  necessary  to  reduce  or  increase 
the  strength  of  spirit,  according  as  circum- 
stances may  require.      To  accomplish,  this, 
we  give  the  following  rules,  which  will  be 
found  useful  to  the  dealer :  multiply  the  num- 
ber of  gallons  by  the  actual  degree  of  strength 
of  the  spirit,  and  divide  the  amount  by  the 
degree  ol  strength  sought  to  be  obtained,  and 
from  the  answer  subtract  100;    the  amount 
thus  obtained  will  show  the  quantity  of  water 
to  be  added  to  the  spirit  in  order  to  reduce  it 
to  the  degree  sought.    For  example  :  suppose 
you  have  100  gallons  of   spirit  at  80°  by 
Tralles'  hydrometer,  and  wish  to  reduce  it  to 
50°  or  proof.    Multiply  100  by  80,  and  divide 
the  amount  by  50,  then  from  the  answer  sub- 
tract 100 ;  this  will  show  that  60  gallons  of 
water  must  be  added  to  the  spirit  in  order  to 
reduce  it  to  50°  Tralles',  or  proof. 

Thus,  100  gallons 

Multiplied  by  80 

Divided  by        50)8000(160 
Deduct     '  100 

60 

1452.  To  Ascertain  the  Quantity  of 
Pure  or  Absolute  Alcohol  in  any  Given 
Amount  of  Liquor.     The  quantity  of  alco- 
hol   contained  in  any  amount  of   liquor  is 
readily  ascertained  after  testing  the  strength 
with  Tralles'  hydrometer  at  60°   Fahr.,   by 
simply  multiplying  the  figures  expressing  the 
quantity  of  liquor,  by  the  ascertained  strength ; 
for  example :  a  barrel  of  brandy  containing  32 
gallons,  60°  strong  at  60°  Fah.,  contains  19£ 
gallons  pure  alcohol.     Rule. — Multiply  the 


ALCOHOL. 


'14,7 


number  of  gallons  by  the  ascertained  degrees 
of  strength,  and  divide  by  100.     Thus  : 
32  gallons, 
60°  Tralles'  at  60°  Fahr. 


19.20,  or  191-  gallons  pure  alcohol. 

1453.  To  Ascertain  the  Number-  of 
Gallons  at  any  Required  Number  Below 
Proof,  in  any  Given  Number  of  Proof 
Gallons.      Multiply  the    given    number    ol 
proof  gallons  by  100,  and  then  divide  the  pro- 
duct tbus  obtained  by  a  number  found    by 
deducting  the  required  number  of  degrees  be- 
low proof  from   100.     The  quotient  •will  be 
the  answer.     For  example :    How  many  gal- 
lons, 25  below  proof,  are  there  in  35  gallons 
proof? 

100  35  gallons  proof, 

25  B.  P.     100 

75          )3500(46f  gallons  25  below  proof. 

We  thus  see  by  the  above  example  that  35 

gallons  proof  spirit  is  equal  to  46f  gallons  25 

below  proof. 

1454.  To  Increase  the  Strength  of  a 
Spirit  from   any  Degree  to  a   Higher 
given  Degree,   or  Percentage.      To   in- 
crease the  degree  of  strength  of  a  spirit,  multi- 
ply the  number  of  gallons  by  the  actual  degree 
of  strength  of  the  spirit,  and  divide  by  the 
degree   of  strength   sought    to  be   obtained. 
For  example:  suppose  you  have  100  gallons 
of  spirit  at  proof,  or  50°  by  Tralles'  hydrom- 
eter, and  wish  to  increase  its  strength  to  80°. 
Multiply  100  gallons  by  50  and  divide  by  80  ; 
the  answer  will  give  you  the  number  of  gal- 
lons of  spirit,  625,  to  be  added  to  the  100  gal- 
lons in  spirit  in  order  to  increase  its  volume  to 
80°  by  Tralles'  hydrometer. 

Thus,  100 

50 

80)5000 

62.4,  or  62i 

1455.  To   Reduce     Spirit    a  Given 
Number  Above    Proof  to    a  Required 
Number  Below  Proof,  by  the  Addition 
of  Water.     Multiply  the  number  of  gallons 
of  spirit  by  the  sum  of  the  given  degree  above 
proof  and   the  required  degree  below  proof, 
and  divide  the   product  by  a  number  to  be 
found  by  subtracting  the  required  proof  from 
100.    The  quotient  will  give  the  number  of 
gallons  of  water  to  be  added. 

Suppose  you  want  to  reduce  40  gallons 
spirit  20  above  proof  to'  10  below  proof, 
how  much  water  must  be  added  to  accom- 
plish the  result  ? 

100        40  gallons. 
Required  proof,      10       30 

90)1,200(13J  gals,  water. 
It  will  thus  be  seen  that,  to  reduce  40  gal- 
lons spirit  20  above  proof  to  10  below  proof,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  add  13$-  gallons  of  water, 
makiug  53J-  gallons  in  all. 

1456.  To  Reduce  High  Proof  Spirit 
to  a  Required  Lower  Proof,  by  the  Ad- 
dition of  Water.     First  multiply  the  num- 
ber of  gallons   by  a  number  expressing  the 
difference  in  degrees  of  strength  between  the 
given  proof  of  the  spirit  to  be  reduced  and  the 
required  degree,  or  proof,  to  which  it  is  to  be 


reduced.  Divide  the  product  thus  ascertained 
by  a  number  to  be  found  by  adding  the  re- 
quired proof  to  100. 

Suppose  you  desire  to  reduce  72  gallons 
spirit  at  30  above  proof  to  10  above  proof, 
how  much  water  must  you  add  ? 

30,   given  strength. 

10,  required  strength. 

20,  difference. 

Required  strength,  10      72,  No.  of  gals. 
100      20,  difference. 

110)1,440(13^  gals. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that,  to  reduce  72  gal- 
lons spirit  at  30  above  proof  to  10  above 
proof,  it  is  necessary  to  add  13-jV  gallons  of 
water,  making  about  85  gallons  in  all. 

1457.  To  Reduce  Spirit  of  a  Given 
Number   Above   Proof  to  a  Required 
Number  Below  Proof,  by  the  Substitu- 
tion of  Water  for  Spirit.    Deduct  the  num- 
ber below  proof  from  100,  and  multiply  the 
number  of  gallons  by  the  remainder.    Then 
add  the  number  which  the  given  liquor  is 
above  proof  to  100.  and  divide  the  above  pro- 
duct by  the  number  thus    obtained.     The 
quotient,  deducted  from  the  original  number 
of  high  proof  gallons,  will  give  the  answer 
required.    All  small  fractions  may  be  rejected. 

Suppose  you  want  to  reduce  a  cask  of  40 
gallons  spirit  at  20  above  proof  to  10  h«l"~ 
proof. 

100 
10 

Multiply    90 
by    40 

To  100  add  20=120)3,600(30 

Original  number  of  gallons,  40 
Deduct  quotieot,  30 

Answer,  10  gallons. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  10  gallons  should 
be  removed,  and  their  place  supplied  with 
water,  in  order  to  make  the  mixture  equal  to 
10  degrees  below  proof. 

1458.  To  Reduce   Spirit  of  a  Given 
Number  Above  Proof  to  Proof  Spirit, 
by  the  Substitution  of  Water  for  Spirit. 
Multiply  the  number  of  gallons  by  100,  then 
add  the  number  which  the  spirit  is  above 
proof  to  100,  and  divide  the  above  product  by 
the  number  thus  obtained ;  subtract  the  quo- 
tient from  the  number  expressing  the  original 
quantity  of  spirit,  and  the  answer  will  give 
the  number  of  gallons  to  be  removed  from 
the  spirit  and  replaced  with  water,  in  order  to 
reduce  the  high  proof  spirit  down  to  proof. 

Suppose  you  want  to  reduce  a  cask  of  24 
gallons  of  spirit  20  above  proof  to  proof  spirit. 
Above  proof,    20       24 
100      100 

120)2,400(20 

Original  quantity  24 
20 

Answer,    4 

It  will  be  seen  by  the  above  example  that 
4  gallons  have  to  be  taken  from  the  spirit 
and  the  same  quantity  of  water  added,  to  re- 
duce it  to  proof. 


148 


ESSENTIAL    OILS. 


1459.  To    Baise  Spirit  of  a   Given 
Number  Under   Proof  to    a  Required 
Strength  Above  Proof,  by  the  Substitu- 
tion of  High  Proof  Spirit.     Multiply  the 
number  of  gallons  by  the  number  expressing 
the  difference  in  degrees  of  strength  between 
the  high  proof  spirit  to  be  added  and  the  re- 
quired degree  to  which  it  is  to  be  raised. 
Divide  the  product  thus  found  by  a  number 
to  be  obtained  by  adding  the  given  number 
below  proof  to  the  number  the  high  spirit  is 
above  proof;  then  subtract  the  quotient  from 
the  original  number  of  gallons,  and  the  re- 
mainder will  show  the  quantity  of  low  spirit 
to  be  removed  and  its  place  supplied  by  the 
addition  of  the  same  quantity  of  high  proof 
spirit. 

Suppose  you  desire  to  raise  a  cask  of  40 
gallons  at  10  below  proof  to  15  above  proof, 
by  means  of  spirit  40  above  proof: 

40        40  A.  p.        40  number  of  gals. 

15        10  B.  B.        25  multiplied  by  diff. 

Diff.  25        50  )1000(20 

40  gals,  original  quantity  to  be  raised. 
20  deduct  quotient. 

20  answer. 

The  above  example  shows  that  20  gallons 
should  be  taken  from  the  low  proof  spirit, 
and  the  sume  quantity  of  spirit  added  at  40 
above  proof,  to  raise  it  to  15  above  proof. 

1460.  To  Raise    Spirit  of  a   Given 
Number  Below  Proof  to  Proof  Spirit, 
by   the    Substitution    of    High   Proof 
Spirit.     Multiply  the  number  of  gallons  by 
the  number  which  the  high  proof  spirit  is  above 
proof,  divide  the  product  by  a  number  to  be 
found  by  adding  the  given  number  the  spirit 
is  below  proof  to  the  number  the  high  spirit 
is  above  proof;  subtract  the  quotient  from  the 
original  number  of  gallons,  and  the  remainder 
will  show  the  quantity  of  low  proof  spirit  to 
be  removed,  and  its  place  to  be  supplied  by 
the  addition  of  high  proof  spirit. 

Suppose  you  desire  to  raise  a  cask  of  40 
gallons  at  5  below  proof,  to  proof,  by  means 
of  spirit  35  degrees  above  proof. 

35  A.  p.  40  number  of  gallons. 

5  B.  p.  35  above  proof. 

40  )1400(35  quotient. 

40  gallons,  -, 

35  quotient, 

5  answer. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  5  gallons  should 
be  taken  from  the  low  proof  spirit,  and  the 
same  quantity  of  spirit  added  at  35  above 
proof,  in  order  to  raise  it  to  proof  strength. 

1461.  To  Raise  Spirit   of  a   Given 
Number  Above  Proof  to  a  Still  Higher 
Degree  of  Strength,  by  the  Addition  of 
High  Proof  Spirit.       First  multiply   the 
number  of  gallons  by  a  number  expressing  the 
difference  in  degrees  of  strength  between  the 
given  proof  of  the  spirit  to  be  raised,  and  the 
required  degree  to  which  it  is  to  be  raised. 
Divide  the  product  thus  ascertained,   by  a 
number  to  be  found  by  subtracting  the  differ- 
ence in  degrees  between  the  spirit  to  be  raised 
and  the  high   proof  spirit  employed  to  raise 
it.     The  quotient  will  show  the  number  of 
gallons  of  a  higher  proof  which  must  be  added. 


Suppose  you  desire  to  raise  a  cask  of  35 
gallons  spirit  15  above  proof  to  20  above  proof, 
by  the  addition  of  spirit  30  above  proof. 
20  required  proof, 
15.  given  proof, 

5  'difference. 

From       30        35  number  of  gallons. 
Subtract  15          5  multiplied  by  difference. 

15    )175(11?  answer. 

1462.  To  Reduce  Low  Proof  Spirit 
to  a  Still  Lower  Proof,  by  the  Addition 
of  Water.     First  multiply  the  number  of 
gallons  by  the  difference  in  degrees  of  strength 
between  the  given  proof  of  the  spirit  to  be 
reduced,  and  the  required  proof  to  which  it  is 
to  be  reduced.     Divide  the  product  by  a  num- 
ber ascertained  by  subtracting  the  given  proof 
from  100,  and  the  quotient  will  give  the  num- 
ber of  gallons  of  water  to  be  added. 

Suppose  you  want  to  reduce  40  gallons 
spirit  10  below  proof,  to  15  below  proof. 
Eequired  proof  15 
Given  proof       10 

Difference  5 

100  40  gallons 

10  given  proof  5  difference 

•      90  )200(2$  gals,  water 

1463.  To  Raise  a  Low  Proof  Spirit 
to  a  Higher  Required  Proof  by  the  Ad- 
dition of  High  Proof  Spirit.     Multiply 
the  number  of  gallons  by  a  number  express- 
ing the  difference  in  degrees  of  strength  be- 
tween the   given  proof  of  the   spirit   to  be 
raised,  and  the  required  proof  to  which  it  is 
to  be  raised.     Divide  the  product  thus  ascer- 
tained by  the  sum  of  the  given  proof,  and  the 
high  proof  spirit  to  be  added,  and  the  quotient 
will  give  the  answer. 

Suppose  you  desire  to  raise  40  gallons  spirit 
15  below  proof  to  10  below  proof  with  spirit 
10  above  proof. 

Given  proof      15 

Required  proof  10 


Difference  5 

Given  proof  15 
High  proof  10 


40  gallons 
5  difference 


25     )200(8  gals,  answer. 


Essential  Oils;  Volatile 
Oils.  The  essential  or  volatile  oils 
are  an  extensive  and  important  class  of  bodies 
derived  from  the  vegetable  kingdom,  and 
found  in  almost  every  part  of  the  larger  num- 
ber of  the  plants  which  produce  them,  except 
the  cotyledons  of  the  seeds,  which,  in  general, 
form  the  exclusive  repository  of  the  fixed 
oils.  It  is  the  volatile  oils  which  confer  upon 
flowers,  leaves,  fruit,  seeds,  roots,  barks,  and 
woods,  their  peculiar  and  characteristic  odors ; 
but  among  these  they  are  not  equally  dis- 
tributed in  the  same  individual,  and  are  oft.en 
altogether  absent  from  some  of  them.  To 
them  we  are  indebted  for  our  most  delightful 
perfumes,  and  our  choicest  aromatic*  and 
spices.  All  of  them,  when  perfectly  pure,  are 


ESSENTIAL    OILS. 


149 


colorless;  though,  before  rectification,  nearly 
the  whole  of  them  have  a  pale  yellow  tint, 
and  some  of  them  are  brown,  blue,  or  green. 
They  mix  in  all  proportions  with  the  fixed 
oils,  dissolve  freely  in  both  alcohol  and  ether, 
and  are  sparingly  soluble  in  water,*  forming 
perfumed  or  medicated  waters.  (See  Nos.  1080, 
<fc. )  Their  boiling  point  usually  ranges  be- 
tween 310°  and  325°  Fahr.,  and  is  always  con- 
siderably higher  than  water.  They  resist 
saponification  and  (excepting  oil  of  cloves) 
do  not  combine  with  the  salifiable  bases. 
Their  density  fluctuates  a  little  on  either  side 
of  water.  The  lightest  oil  is  that  of  citrons 
(specific  gravity  0.847),  and  the  heaviest,  that 
of  sassafras  (specific  gravity  1.096).  When 
cooled  sufficiently  they  all  soldify.  The  com- 
mon temperature  of  the  atmosphere  is  suffi- 
cient for  this  with  some  of  them,  as  the  oils  oi 
roses  and  aniseed ;  whilst  others  require  to  be 
cooled  below  the  freezing  point  of  water  be- 
fore they  assume  the  solid  form.  By  exposure 
to  the  air  they  rapidly  absorb  oxygen,  and 
become  partially  converted  into  resin.  This 
is  the  cause  of  the  deposit  that  usually  forms 
in  them  (especially  in  the  expressed  oil  oi 
orange)  when  kept  in  an  imperfectly  stopped 
bottle.  (Coolcy.) 

1465.  To  Obtain  Essential  Oils.  All 
essential  oils  which  are  more  or  less  volatile 
can  be  obtained  from  substances  by  distilling 
the  articles  along  with  an  equal  weight  (some 
use  a  larger  proportion)  of  water;  but  some 
substances  that  give  out  their  oil  with  diffi- 
culty, are  first  soaked  for  24  hours  in  twice 
their  weight  of  water,  to  each  gallon  of  which 
1  pound  of  common  salt  has  been  added,  by 
which  its  boiling  point  is  raised,  and  conse- 
quently the  oil  comes  over  more  easily.  In 
such  cases  a  quick  fire  is  used,  and  when  one 
half  the  water  has  come  over,  it  is  returned 
into  the  still,  and  this  is  repeated  until  the 
distilled  water  ceases  to  come  over  mixed 
with  oil.  The  heat  of  steam  or  a  salt  water 
bath  should  be  preferably  employed ;  but  if  a 
naked  fire  be  used,  the  still  should  be  deep 
and  narrow,  by  which  means  the  bottom  will 
be  more  perfectly  covered  when  the  quantity 
of  water  becomes  small,  and  burning  prevent- 
ed. When  the  distilled  water  is  to  be  repeat- 
edly poured  back  on  the  ingredients,  a  very 
convenient  plan  is  to  so  arrange  the  apparatus 
that,  after  the  water  has  separated  from  the 


Fig.  1. 

oil,  it  shall  flow  back  again  into  the  still,  by 
which  much  time  and  trouble  will  be  saved. 
The  separation  of  the  oil  and  water  is  effect- 
ed by  allowing  the  mixed  liquids  to  drop  into 
a  Florentine  receiver  (see  Fig.  1),  when  the 
oil  is  lighter  than  water,  by  which  means  the 


latter  accumulates  at  a,  and  the  water  flows 
over  by  the  spout,  &.  The  essential  oil  is  ob- 
tained in  this  manner  from  the  following: 
Anise,  caraway,  wormseed,  cubebs,  fennel, 
pennyroyal,  juniper,  lavender,  lemon,  cinna- 
mon, peppermint,  spearmint,  horsemint,  ori- 
ganum, pimento,  rosemary,  savine,  sassafras, 
valerian,  <fec.  The  empyreumatic  oil  of  to- 
bacco is  obtained  by  introducing  the  dry 
leaves  in  coarse  powder  into  a  green  glass  re- 
tort, heating  it  in  a  sand-bath  to  a  dull  red 
heat.  Separate  the  oily  liquid  from  the  wa- 
tery portion  as  it  comes  over,  and  keep  for 
use.  (See  No.  46.)  The  same  receiver  may 
be  employed  for  oils  heavier  than  water,  by 
reversing  the  arrangement ;  but  a  glass  sepa- 
rator (see  Fig.  2)  will  be  found  more  con- 


Fig.  2. 

venient.  In  this  case  the  oil  accumulates  at 
the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  and  may  be  drawn 
off  by  the  cock.  The  oil  of  cloves  and  other 
heavy  essential  oils  are  obtained  by  macera- 
ting 5  pounds  coarsely  powdered  material  for 
48  hours  in  10  pounds  water  containing  1 
pound  salt ;  and  distilling  until  the  product  is 
no  longer  milky.  After  the  oil  has  deposited, 
the  remaining  water  is  again  distilled,  and 
this  repeated  until  all  the  oil  has  been  extract- 
ed from  the  water.  After  10  days,  the  oil 
is  cleaned  and  clarified  by  filtering.  The  es- 
sential oil  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  rhodium-wood, 
sandal,  calamus,  aloes,  <fcc.,  are  thus  obtained. 
That  of  bitter  almonds  and  of  mustard  are  ob- 
tained by  making  a  thin  paste  of  the  material 
with  water ;  and,  after  24  hours'  maceration, 
distilling  by  steam-bath.  The  essential  oils 
of  lemons,  oranges,  and  some  other  fruits, 
are  chiefly  obtained  by  submitting  the  yellow 
rind  to  powerful  pressure;  but  iu  this  way 
they  are  not  so  white,  nor  do  they  keep  so 
well  as  when  distilled.  Volatile  oils  should 
be  kept  in  well-closed  and  nearly  full  bottles, 
in  the  dark,  and  opened  as  seldom  as  possible, 
as  by  age  and  frequent  exposure  they  become 
resinous.  The  process  of  distillation  should 
be  done  as  rapidly  as  possible,  and  the  light 
oils  collected  soon  after  its  separation  from 
the  water. 

1466.  Special  Directions  for  Distill- 
ing Essential  Oils.  Substances  yielding 
volatile  oils  are  generally  distilled  with  water, 
the  proportion  of  which  varies  with  each. 


15O 


ESSENTIAL    OILS. 


article,  but  under  all  circumstances  niust  be 
sufficient  to  prevent  the  substance  from  burn- 
ing before  the  whole  of  the  oil  has  passed 
over.  To  prevent  the  risk  of  burning,  it  has 
been  recommended  to  suspend  the  substance 
to  bo  distilled  in  a  basket,  or  a  bag  of  wire- 
work,  in  the  water,  so  as  not  to  touch  the  bot- 
tom or  sides  of  the  alembic ;  or  to  place  the 
substance  on  a  perforated  shelf  in  the  upper 
j  part  of  the  alembic  above  the  surface  of  the 
water.  Some  substances,  such  as  mustard, 
bitter  almonds,  &c.,  which  are  mixed  to  a 
paste  with  water,  are  distilled  by  the  action 
of  a  current  of  steam  heated  to  the  necessary 
degree  and  admitted  into  the  bottom  of  the 
alembic.  An  excess  above  what  is  necessary 
acts  injuriously  by  holding  some  of  the  oil  in 
solution  after  the  mixed  vapors  are  condensed ; 
on  the  other  hand,  if  too  small  a  quantity  be 
employed,  besides  the  danger  of  burning,  the 
whole  of  the  oil  will  not  be  distilled.  Dried 
plants  require  more  water  than  the  fresh  and 
succulent. 

The  form  of  the  alembic  has  an  influence 
over  the  quantity  of  water  distilled,  which  de- 
pends more  upon  the  extent  of  surface  than 
the  amount  of  liquid  ;  by  employing  a  high 
and  uaiTow  vessel  the  disadvantage  of  an  ex- 
cess of  water  is  much  obviated. 

The  temperature  should  bo  equable,  and' 
regulated  so  as  not  to  exceed  the  required  de- 
gree of  heat;  and,  as  some  oils  are  more 
volatile  than  others,  an  appropriate  tempera- 
ture must  be  obtained  and  sustained ;  the  use 
of  a  higher  temperature  than  is  necessary  be- 
ing injurious.  Any  degree  of  heat  can  be 
steadily  applied  by  the  use  of  a  bath,  either  of 
water  or  of  some  solution  (weaker  or  stronger 
as  required)  of  which  the  boiling  point  is 
known.  (Sec  No.  7.) 

The  more  volatile  oils  pass  freely  with  the 
steam  into  the  neck  of  the  receiver,  but  some 
that  are  less  volatile  are  apt  to  condense  in 
the  head,  and  return  into  the  body  of  the 
still ;  for '  these  a  still  should  be  employed 
with  a  large  and  low  head,  having  a  rim  or 
gutter  inside,  in  which  the  oil  maybe  received 
as  it  condenses,  and  thence  led  into  the  neck 
of  the  condensing  tube  (sec  No.  1077),  which 
is  better  straight  than  coiled,  for  convenience 
in  cleaning,  as  the  alembic  and  all  its  appur- 
tenances must  be  perfectly  clean  before  distill- 
ing each  kind  of  essential  oil. 

Certain  flowers,  such  as  orange  flowers  and 
roses,  yield  little  or  no  oil  when  dry,  and 
must  be  preserved  fresh,  either  with  salt,  or 
by  means  of  glycerine,  to  keep  them  in  condi- 
tion for  distilling  their  oils.  (See  No.  1349.) 

The  most  of  the  aromatic  herbs  are  usually 
distilled  while  fresh,  although  it  is  thought  by 
some  that  they  yield  a  larger  product  when 
moderately  dried.  Dried  substances  require, 
previous  to  distillation,  to  be  thoroughly 
macerated  with  water ;  and  to  facilitate  this 
end,  should  be  prepared  by  slicing,  rasping, 
bruising,  or  other  appropriate  means.  Some- 
times the  proportion  of  oil  in  the  substance 
employed  is  so  small  that  it  is  wholly  dis- 
solved in  the  water  distilled,  even  though  the 
smallest  necessary  quantity  of  water  has 
been  employed  in  the  alembic.  In  this  case 
the  distilled  solution  must  be  redistilled 
several  times  with  fresh  quantities  of  the 
substance,  until  more  oil  passes  over  than  the 


water  will  dissolve.     This  process  is  called 
I  cohobation. 

1467.  Millon's  Method  of  Obtaining 

Essential  Oils.  The  flowers  are  placed  in 
a  percolating  apparatus  (see  No.  41)  and  then 
ether  oi>  sulphide  of  carbon  is  poured  over 
them.  After  leaving  the  flowers  in  contact 
for  15  minutes  the  liquid  is  drawn  off'  and 
a  fresh  supply  added  and  drawn  off'  in  a 
similar  manner.  This  completely  dissolves 
all  the  essential  oil  of  the  flowers,  leaving 
them  quite  scentless.  The  liquid  is  next  dis- 
tilled, and  the  ether  or  sulphide  of  carbon,  be- 
ing volatile  at  a  much  lower  temperature  than 
the  fragrant  principle,  is  drawn  over  alone, 
and  leaves  a  residue  containing  all  the  per- 
fume of  the  flower.  This  residue,  more  or 
less  solid,  is  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  sun 
until  it  loses  the  unpleasant  smell  of  the 
solvent  used.  No  degree  of  natural  heat  is 
capable  of  altering  the  perfume  or  turning  it 
rancid.  The  product  has  a  much  finer  odor 
than  essential  oil  prepared  by  any  other 
system. 

1468.  Cognac  Oil.     Oil  of  cognac    is 
prepared  by  dissolving  the  fusel  oil  of  brandy 
marc  in  strong  rectified  spirit,  and  then  adding 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  concentrated  sulphuric 
acid  to  form  a  sulphate ;  alcohol  and  excess 
of  acid  are  removed  by  washing  the  newly 
formed  compound  with  water.     To  100  pounds 
marc  add  \  pound  sulphuric  acid ;  the  oil  is 
generally  formed  towards  the  end  of  the  dis- 
tillation, and  is  found  floating  in  blackish  drops 
on  the  surface  of  the  distillate.     According 
to  a  distinguished  French  chemist,  this  oil  is 
a  compound  of  potato  oil  and  oenanthic  ether. 

1469.  Oil  of  Apple.     Mix  cautiously  1 
part  fusel  oil,  3  parts  sulphuric  acid,  and  2 
parts  water.     Dissolve  2£  parts  bichromate  of 
potash  in  4|  parts  water,  introduce  this-  into 
a  large  tubulated  retort,  and  gradually  add  the 
former  liquid,  so  that  the  boiling  continues  very 
slowly.     The  distillate,  which  is  principally 
valerianic  acid,  is  saturated  with  carbonate  of 
soda,  and  evaporated  to  dryness.     Take  of 
the  valerianate  of  soda,  thus  formed,  1£  parts ; 
fusel  oil,  1  part ;  sulphuric  acid,  1  part ;  mix 
cautiously,  heat  by  a  water-bath,  and  mix 
with  water;  the  impure  valeriauate  of  amy- 
loxide  will  separate.    It  is  washed  several 
times  with  water,  then  with  a  solution  of  car- 
bonate of  soda,  and  finally  with  water.     This 
is  dissolved  in  from  G  to  8  parts  of  water. 

1470.  Oil  of  Jargonelle  Pear.     This  is 
made  from  the  heavy  fusel  oil  which  comes 
over  last  in  distillation.     To  purify  the  fusel 
oil,  wash  it  with  soda  and  water,  and  distill 
between  254°  and  284°  Fahr.     Of  this  take  1 
pound;  glacial  acetic  acid,  1  pound;  sulphuric 
acid,  i  pound.     Digest  for  sonic  hours  at  254°. 
The  ether  separates  upon  the  addition  of  wa- 
ter, and  is  purified  by  washing  with  soda  and 
water.     Mixed  with  Vff  part  acetic  ether,  and 
7  parts  of  deodorized  alcohol,  it  gives  the  es- 
sence of  pears. 

1471.  Oil  of  duince  —  Pelargonic 
Ether — is  made  from  oil  of  rue  by  treating 
it  with  double  its  volume  of  dilute  nitric  acid, 
heating  the  mixture  until  it  begins  to  boil. 
After  some  time  two  layers  are  seen.  The 
lower  one  is  separated  with  a  pipette,  and 
freed  from  nitric  acid  by  evaporation  in  a 
chloride  of  zinc  bath;  it  is  then  filtered, 


ESSENTIAL    OILS. 


151 


mixed  with  deodorized  alcohol,  and  digested 
at  a  gentle  hfeat  until  the  fruity  odor  is  noticed. 
This  ether  seems  identical  with  the  ethereal 
oil  of  wine,  which  gives  the  bouquet.  It  is 
sometimes  sold  as  oil  of  cognac. 

1472.  To  Restore  tlie  Fragrance  of 
Oil  of  Lemon.     There  are  several  oils  that, 
by  absorption  of  oxygen  from  the  air,  will  be- 
come  camphorated,   grow  turbid,   deposit  a 
residue,  generally  called  stearopten,  and  lose 
more  or  less  of  their  flavor,  instead  of  which 
they  acquire  the  odor  of  turpentine.     Those 
oils  that  are  free  from  oxygen  are  chiefly  sub- 
ject to  these  changes,   and    it  -is  therefore 
necessary  to  keep  them  in  full  bottles,  well 
stoppered,  and  in  a  cool  place.  "When  they  have 
deteriorated  in  the  way  indicated,  they  may  be 
improved,  but  can  never  be  restored  to  their 
original  quality.     Many    means    have  been 
proposed  for  this  purpose,  but  the  one  now 
generally  employed  in  France  is  to  shake  the 
oil  with  warm  water  several  times,  letting  it 
settle,   and  drawing  it  off   by  means  of  a 
syphon;  it  may  lastly  be  filtered  either  through 
paper  or  linen. 

1473.  To  Keep  Oil  of  Lemon  Fra- 
grant.    To  every  pound  of  oil,  1  ounce  alco- 
hol is  to  be  added  and  well  mixed ;  then  1 
ounce  water  is  put  with  it,  which  again  with- 
draws the  alcohol  from  the  oil,  and  collects 
at  the  bottom  of  the  bottle  as  dilute  alcohol, 
where  it  should  be  permitted  to  remain  until 
the  oil  has  been  used,  with,  perhaps,  an  occa- 
sional shake-up  when  the  bottle  has  been 
opened.     Oil  of  lemon  treated  in  this  manner 
has  been  kept  fresh  and  fragrant  for  over  a 
year.     Oil  of  orange  may  be  treated  in  the 
same  manner  with  excellent  effect. 

1474.  To  Purify  Essential  Oils  that 
have  Deteriorated  from  Age.    The  method 
most  commonly  pursued  is  by  redistillation, 
mixing  them  first  with  water,  and  sometimes 
with  alkali.     There  are,  however,  other  pro- 
cesses that  have  been  recommended,  which 
are  believed  to  be  equally  as  efficacious,  and 
at  the  same  time  more  simple.    M.  Curieux 
proposes  to  submit  them  to  the  action  of  a 
solution  of  borax  with  animal  black.     The 
solution  of  borax  is  mixed  with  the  animal 
charcoal  to  form  a  thin  consistency ;  the  oil 
is  then  added  and  agitated  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour.     At  the  end  of  that  time  the  borax 
mixture  is  found  adhering  to  the  sides  of  the 
bottle,  while  the  oil  flows  limpid.     The  oil  of 
lavender,  neroli,  and  peppermint,  M.  Curieux 
had  restored  or  purified  in  this  manner.     Mr. 
Charles  Bullock,  of  Philadelphia,  has  found 
that  permanganate  of  potash  is  admirably 
adapted  to  the  purpose  of  the  restoration  of 
resinified  essential  oils.     A  large  can  of  oil  of 
lemon  having  become  unsaleable,  he  agitated 
a  solution  of  the  potash  with  the  oil  for  a 
length  of  time,  then  decanted,  mixed  with 
fresh  water,  and  warmed  gently,  till  the  oil 
floated  perfectly  clear  on  the  surface.     The 
solution  of  the  permanganate  was  in  the  pro- 
portion of  1  ounce  of  the  salt  to  8  ounces  of 
water.    This  quantity  was  enough  for  4  pounds 
of  the  oil. 

1475.  To   Detect  the   Presence   of 
Fatty  Oil  and  Resins  in  Essential  Oils. 
The  presence  of  fatty  oil,  resin,  or  spermaceti, 
may  be  readily  detected  by  placing  a  single 
drop  of  the  suspected  oil  on  a  piece  of  white 


paper,  and  exposing  it  for  a  short  time  to 
heat.  If  the  oil  under  examination  be  pure, 
it  will  entirely  evaporate ;  but  if  it  be  adul- 
terated with  one  of  these  substances,  a  greasy 
or  translucent  spot  will  be  left  on  the  paper. 
These  substances  also  remain  undissolved 
when  the  oil  is  agitated  with  three  or  four 
times  its  volume  of  strong  rectified  spirit. 

1476.  To  Detect  the  Presence  of  Al- 
cohol in  Essential  Oils.     The  presence  of 
alcohol  or  rectified  spirit  may  be  detected  by 
agitation  with  the  oil  a  few  small  fragments 
of  dried  chloride  of  calcium.    These  will  re- 
main unaltered  if  the  oil  be  pure,  but  will 
dissolve  in  one  containing  alcohol,  and  the  re- 
sulting solution  will  form  a  distinct  stratum 
at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.    The  milkiness 
and  loss  of  volume,  when  such  an  oil  is  agi- 
tated with  a  little  water,  is  another  test  of  the 
presence  of  spirit.    A  more  delicate  test  of 
the  presence  of  alcohol  in  an  essential  oil 
than  the  preceding,  is  effected  by  potassium. 
Place  12  drops  of  the  oil  on  a  perfectly  dry 
watch-glass,  and  put  a  piece  of  potassium, 
the  size  of  an  ordinary  pin's  head,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  it.    If  the  potassium  remains  unchanged 
for  12  or  15  minutes,  no  alcohol  is  present; 
bnt  if  it  disappears  after  5  minutes,  the  oil 
contains  at  least  4  per  cent,  of  alcohol ;  if  it 
disappears  in  less  than  1  minute,  it  proves  the 
presence  of  not  less  than  25  per  cent,  of  alco- 
hol.   This  species  of  adulteration  is  very  com- 
mon.   It  is  a  very  general  practice  of  the 
druggists  to  add  strong  rectified    spirit   to 
their  essential  oils,  to  render  them  transparent, 
especially  in  cold  weather.     Oil  of  cassia  and 
oil  of  cinnamon  are  nearly  always  so  treated 
by  them. 

1477.  To  Detect  the  Admixture  of 
one  Essential  Oil  with  Another.     The 
admixture  of  an  inferior  essential  oil  with  an- 
other more  costly,  is  readily  detected  by  a 
connoisseur  or  expert,  by  placing  a  drop  or 
two  on  a  piece  of  clean  blotting-paper,  shak- 
ing it  in  the  air,  and  smelling  it  occasionally. 
The  difference  of  the  odor  at  the  beginning 
and  towards  the  end  of  the  evaporation  will 
show  the  adulteration,  especially  if  the  adul- 
terant be  oil  of  turpentine.    This  last  may  also 
be  detected  by  remaining  undissolved  when 
the  oil  is  agitated  with  about  thrice  its  volume 
of  strong  rectified  spirit.     Highly  rectified  oil 
of  turpentine  is  very  largely  used  to  adulter- 
ate the  stronger  scented  essential  oils.     For- 
eign oil  of  lavender  and  oil  of  peppermint,  for 
example,  are  usually  compounds  of  1  ounce 
of  the  genuine  oil  with  9  ounces  of  oil  of 
turpentine.     Even  American  and  English  oil 
of  peppermint  are  adulterated  with  J  part  rec- 
tified spirit,  besides  a  considerable  quantity  of 
oil  of  spearmint,  and  often  turpentine. 

1478.  To  Detect  the   Adulteration 
of  a  Heavy  Oil  with  a  Light  One.    The 
adulteration  of  a  heavy  oil  with  a  light  one 
may  be  detected  by  agitating  the  suppected 
sample  with  water,  when,  in  general,  the  two 
will  separate  and  form  distinct  layers. 

1479.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Essen- 
tial  Oil   of  Almonds.      Essential    oil    of 
almonds  is  very  generally  adulterated  with 
cheaper  oils,  particularly  nitrobenzole  (arti- 
ficial oil  of  bitter  almonds),  and  in  nearly 
every  case  with  alcohol  or  rectified  spirit. 
The  pure  oil,  when  mixed  with  oil  of  vitriol, 


FIXED    OILS    AND    FATS. 


turns  of  a  clear  crimson-red  color,  without 
visible  decomposition: — mixed  with  alcoholic 
solution  of  poiassa,  crystals  are  eliminated : — 
iodine  dissolves  only  partially  and  slowly  in 
it,  without  further  visible  results: — cliromate 
of  potassa  does  not  affect  it: — nitric  acid  of 
the  specific  gravity  1.42  causes  no  immediate 
reaction,  but  crystals  of  benzoic  acid  begin  to 
form  in  3  or  4  days ;  if  only  7  or  8  per  cent. 
of  alcohol  be  present,  violent  effervescence 
speedily  commences,  and  colored  nitrous 
fumes  are  evolved.  Nitric  acid  of  specific 
gravity  1.5  produces  the  same  effects  in  a 
marked  degree,  even  when  the  smallest  quan- 
tity only  of  alcohol  is  present.  The  specific 
gravity  of  the  pure  oil,  when  recent,  is 
never  less  than  1.052;  and  when  old,  never 
greater  than  1.081 ;  that  of  trade  averages 
about  1.075.  Nitrobenzole  has  the  specific 
gravity  1.209,  and  its  boiling  point  is  415° 
Fahr.,  or  fully  100°  higher  than  that  of  es- 
sential oil  of  almonds. 

1480.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Oil  of 
Bergamot.  Oil  of  bergamot  is  very  fre- 
quently adulterated  with  rectified  spirit,  or 
with  the  oil  of  lemon,  orange  peel,  and  tur- 
pentine. These  may  be  detected  in  the  way 
previously  noticed.  (See  JVo.  1476,  <fc.)  The 

Eresence  of  the  foreign  oils,  particularly  the 
ist,  lessens  its  solubility  in  rectified  spirit. 
The  pure  oil  is  freely  soluble  in  liquor  of 
potassa,  forming  a  clear  solution.    Its  specific 
gravity  is  .875  to  .885. 

148*1.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Oil  of 
Cinnamon.  The  common  adulterants  are 
highly  rectified  spirit  and  oil  of  cassia.  When 
pure,  its  specific  gravity  is  1.035.  Oil  of 
cassia,  of  which  the  specific  gravity  is  1.071 
to  1.073,  and  when  old,  even  1.078  to  1.090, 
increases  it;  but  before  trying  it,  it  must  be 
tested  for  spirit,  which  has  a  contrary  effect. 

1482.  To  Test   the  Purity  of  Oil  of 
Lavender.     Alcohol  is  here  also  the  common 
adulterant.     The  finest  quality — that  from  the 
flowers,  has  specific  gravity  .877  to  .905.   The 
lightest  is  esteemed  the  best.    Santaline  is 
insoluble,  or  very  nearly  so,  in  the  pure  oil, 
but  is  freely  soluble  in  that  adulterated  with 
alcohol.     The   presence  of  oil  of  turpentine, 
and  other  inferior  oils,  may  be  detected  by 
the  blotting-paper  test,  noticed  above.     (See 
No.  1475. 

1483.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Oil  of 
Neroli.     This  is  the  oil  of  orange  flowers, 
and  is  commonly  adulterated  with  alcohol,  or 
with  the  oil  of  orange  leaf  (essence  de  petit- 
grain),  and  generally  with  both.    The  presence 
of  the  first  is  easily  determined  (see  No.  1476) ; 
that  of  the  second  only  by  comparing  the  odor 
of  a  drop  of  the  suspected  oil,  placed  on  a 
piece  of  paper,  with  a  drop  of  pure  neroli 
(similarly  treated. 

1484.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Otto  of 
Hoses.     Cooley  says  :    "  The  common  adult- 
erants are  the  oils  of  rhodium,  sandal  wood, 
and  geranium,  with  camphor,  and  occasionally 
with  spermaceti,  to  give  the  spurious  article 
the     usual    crystalline    appearance.       Pure 
otto  has  a  bland,  sweet  taste ;   if  it  be  bitter, 
it  contains  oil  of  rhodium  or  sandal  wood ;  if 
it  be  pungent  or  bite  the  palate,  it  contains 
either  oil  of  geranium  or  camphor,  and  most 
probably  both;     if   it  imparts  an  unctuous 
sensation  to  the  palate,  or  if  it  leaves  a  greasy 


stain  on  paper,  it  contains  spermaceti.  A  single 
drop  of  pure  otto  of  roses  exposed  for  some 
hours  under  a  bell-glass,  in  the  cold,  to  the  va- 
por of  a  few  grains  of  iodine,  remains  white, 
and  continues  so  on  subsequent  exposure  to 
the  air.  A  sample  adulterated  with  foreign 
oil,  on  the  contrary,  becomes  yellow  or  yellow- 
ish-brown, and  continues  subsequently  to  dark- 
en, until  it  becomes  of  a  deep  brown  color,  or 
even  perfectly  black,  according  to  the  extent 
of  the  adulteration.  A  single  drop  of  pure 
otto  placed  on  a  watch  glass  with  one  drop 
of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  (oil  of  vitriol), 
and  stirred  with  a  glass  rod,  retains  the  purity 
of  its  color  and  odor ;  but  a  sample  adulterated 
with  other  oil  becomes  more  or  less  brown, 
and  evolves  peculiar  odors — that  from  oil  of 
geranium  being  strong  and  disagreeable ;  that 
from  oil  of  rhodium  being  increased  and  ren- 
dered unctuous  and  cubeb-like;  that  from 
camphor,  characteristic  and  combined  with 
acidity ;  that  from  spermaceti,  unctuous  and 
clearly  perceptible."  Dr.  R.  Baur,  of  Constan- 
tinople, has  had  the  opportunity  of  preparing 
a  standard  otto  of  rose  on  the  spot,  and  was 
also  in  a  position  such  as  scarcely  any  other 
chemist  ever  was  for  investigating  the  whole 
subject.  He  says  that  pure  otto  gives,  with 
iodine  and  with  iodide  of  potassium  and 
starch,  the  same  reactions  as  when  it  is  mixed 
with  geranium  oil,  and  even  those  with  pure 
geranium  oil  are  hardly  different.  He  further 
says  that  many  attempts  have  been  made  to 
discover  some  chemical  reaction  which  would 
reveal  the  falsification  of  otto  with  geranium 
oil,  but  hitherto  mostly  in  vain. 

1485.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Oil  of 
Cloves.     Oil  of  cloves  is  frequently  adulter- 
ated with  inferior  essential  oils,  but  when 
pure  it  exhibits  the  following  results  :  When 
shaken  with  pure  liquor  of  ammonia,  it  coag- 
ulates, and  crystallizes  after  fusion  by  a  gentle 
heat:  Treated  with  an  alcoholic  solution  of 
potassa,  it  congeals  into  a  crystalline  mass, 
with  total    loss  of   its  odor:    A  solution  of 
cliromate  of  potassa  converts  it  into  brown 
flakes,  whilst  the  salt  loses  its  yellow  color. 

1486.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Oil  of 
Rue.     This  oil  is  nearly  always  adulterated. 
When  pure,  it  forms  a  clear  solution  with 
rectified  spirit ;  Iodine  dissolves  in  it  slowly, 
without  apparent  reaction  beyond  a  darkening 
and  a  slight  increase  in  viscidity :  It  is  un- 
affected by  a  solution  of  chr ornate  of  potassa  ; 
Nitric  acid   very  slowly  changes  it  into  a 
greenish  yellow  liquid  balsam. 


Fixed  Oils  and  Fats.  These 
are  compounds  of  carbon,  hydrogen, 
and  oxygen  (hydrocarbons),  obtained  from 
the  organic  kingdom,  and  chiefly  distinguished 
by  their  insipidity,  unctuosity,  insolubility  in 
water,  and  being'  lighter  than  that  fluid. 
Olive  oil,  obtained  from  the  vegetable,  and 
spermaceti  oil,  from  the  animal  kingdom,  may 
be  taken  as  types  of  the  rest.  The  fixed  oils 
are  chiefly  found  in  the  fruit  and  seeds  of 
plants,  and  in  thin  membranous  cells  in 
various  parts  of  the  bodies  of  animals.  Some 
of  these  oils  are  solid  at  ordinary  temperatures; 
as  palm  oil,  cocoanut  oil,  &c. ;  but  the  majori- 


FIXED    OILS   AND    FATS. 


153 


ty  are  fluid,  except  when  considerably  cooled, 
when  they  separate  into  two  portions:  the 
one  solid,  consisting  mostly  of  stearine,  and 
the  other  liquid,  consisting  chiefly  of  oleine. 
Nearly  all  the  fixed  oils,  when  freely  exposed 
to  the  air,  absorb  oxygen,  and  either  gradually 
harden,  or  become  rancid.  The  former  are 
termed  drying  oils,  and  are  used  by  painters  ; 
the  latter  are  used  in  cookery,  for  machinery, 
lamps,  <fec.  The  fixed  oils,  except  where 
otherwise  directed,  are  obtained  from  the 
bruised  or  ground  fruit  or  seed,  by  means  of 
powerful  pressure,  in  screw  or  hydraulic 
presses,  and  are  either  allowed  to  clarify  them- 
selves by  subsidence,  or  are  filtered.  Another 
method  is  by  boiling  the  bruised  seed  in  wa- 
ter, and  skimming  off  the  oil  as  it  rises  to  the 
surface.  This  is  the  plan  adopted  for  castor 

011  in  the  West  Indies.     The  specific  gravities 
of  the  fixed  oils  range  between  0.865   and 
0.970.     (Cooley.) 

1488.  Davidson's  Process  of  Deodor- 
izing1   Putrid    Whale    Oil.      This    cheap 
method  of  purification  consists  in  the  employ- 
ment of  chloride  of  lime,  the  quantity  depend- 
ing ou  the  degree  of  putrefaction  of  the  whale 
oil.     In  general  1  pound  is  sufficient  for  112 
pounds  oil ;   but  if  it  is  in  a  state  of  great 
putrefaction,  there  may  be  1£  or  2  pounds  re- 
quired.    With  1  pound  chloride  of  lime  about 

12  times  the  quantity  of  water  must  be  em- 
ployed.    The  chloride  is  bruised  in  a  mortar, 
and  the  water  added  by  degrees  till  it  forms  a 
soft  and  liquid  paste,  and  afterwards  by  the 
addition  of  the  remainder  of  the  water  it  takes 
the  consistency  of  cream.     This  is  to  be  mixed 
with  the  oil  and  often  cajef ally  stirred.     After 
some  hours   1   pound  sulphuric  acid,  diluted 
with  20  or  30  times  its  bulk  of  water,  is  poured 
on  the  mixture,  and  the  whole  brought  to  a 
boil  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  stirred  con- 
tinually until  drops  of  oil  run  off  at  the  end 
of  the  stirring  pole.     It  is  then  left  for  some 
hours  for  the  oil  to  precipitate,  and  the  acidu- 
lated water  is  drawn  off.    A  common  cast-iron 
boiler,  with  sheets  of  lead  at  the  bottom,  is  the 
best  for  the  purpose,  or  a  copper  or  iron  vessel 
may  be  used  when  the  quantity  of  acid  is  not 
too  great.     The  chloride  of  lime  must  not  be 
bruised  in  a  copper  or  iron  mortar.    « 

1489.  To   Restore    Rancid  Oil  and 
Fat.     Rancid  oil  and  fat  may  be  recovered  by 
agitating  them,  at  a  gentle  heat,  with  fresh- 
burnt  and  coarsely-powdered  charcoal  (which 
has  been  thoroughly  freed  from  dust  by  sift- 
ing  and    fanning),    followed     by    filtration 
through    flannel;      or    by    simple    filtration 
through  charcoal  in  bags   of  Canton  flannel, 
according  to  the  common  method. 

1490.  To  Restore  Rancid  Fat  or  Oil. 
Another  method  is  to  thoroughly  wash  them 
with  hot  water,   frequently  renewed,   or  to 
blow  steam  through  them,  until  the  desired 
effect  be  produced.     Air  freely  employed  for 
some  .time,  instead   of   steam,   succeeds  ad- 
mirably with  many  oils,  and  its  use  has  the 
advantage  of  not  introducing  moisture  into 
the  article.     Another  method  is  to  boil  oil  or 
fat,  for  15  to  30  minutes,  with  a  little  water 
and  calcined  magnesia. 

1491.  To  Prevent  Oils  and  Fats  from 
Becoming  Rancid.      The  tendency  of  oils 
and  fats  to  become  rancid  may  bo  prevented, 
or  greatly  retarded,  by  artificial  means.     One 


of  the  simplest  methods  is  to  dissolve  about 
2  percent,  of  gum-benzoin  (in  fine  powder), 
or  about  one  per  cent,  benzoic  acid,  in  the 
oil  or  fat,  by  the  aid  of  a  gentle  heat.  This 
addition  renders  oils,  pomades,  ointments,  <fec., 
peculiarly  soothing  to  an  irritable  or  highly 
sensitive  skin.  It  should  be  done  before  the 
addition  of  the  scents.  "When  the  prepara- 
tions are  intended  for  exportation  to  hot  cli- 
mates, the  percentage  of  the  gum  or  acid 
should  be  somewhat  increased.  This  is  the 
plan  generally  adopted  by  the  manufacturing 
perfumers  and  druggists.  In  the  wholesale 
trade,  carefully  rendered  lard,  suet,  &c. ;  sim- 
ple pomades  and  oils,  so  prepared,  are  now 
common  articles  of  stock  and  sale. 

1492.  An   Excellent   Preventive   of 
Rancidity  in  Oils,  &c.     Nitric  ether,  or  its 
alcoholic  solution  (sweet  spirits  of  nitre),  is 
highly  recommended  as  a  most  effective  pre- 
ventive of  rancidity.      It  is-  said  that  a  few 
drops  of  the  ether  will  effect  this  object,  and 
will   even  remove  the    disagreeable  odor  of 
rancidity  when  present.     Oil  so  treated,  after 
being  heated  to  remove  the  alcohol,  when  the 
solution  has  been  used,  is  quite  bright,  clear, 
and  scentless,  if  it  were  originally  so.      Pop- 
lar-buds, crushed  and  digested  at  a  gentle 
heat,  in  oil  or  fat,  will  also  remove,  or  greatly 
retard,  its  tendency  to  become  rancid.     Fatty 
bodies  in  a  globular  state  may  be  kept  a  long 
time  without  becoming  rancid.      This  pecu- 
liar state  can  be  imparted  to  fatty  matters  by 
melting    them  at    130°  Fahr.  and  adding  a 
small  quantity  of  yolk  of  egg,  or  bile,  or  al- 
buminous substances,  or  best,   a  solution  of 
alkali  (composed  of  5  to  10  parts  for  every 
100  of  oil),  at  the  same  temperature.    The 
whole  is  then  agitated  for  some  time  to  bring 
the  fatty  matter  into  a  globular  condition. 

1493.  To  PreventFats  and  Oils  from 
Becoming  Rancid.    Heat  the  oil  or  melted 
fat  for  a  few  minutes  with  powdered  slippery- 
elm  bark,   in  the  proportion  of  1  drachm  of 
the  powder  to  one  pound  of  fat.      The  bark 
shrinks  and  gradually  subsides,   after  which 
the  fat  is  poured  off.      It  communicates  an 
odor  like  that  of  the  hickory-nut.      Butter 
thus  treated  has  been  kept  unchanged  for  a 
year. 

1494.  To  Purify  Vegetable  Oil   for 
Use  in  Lamps.      To  100  pounds  oil  add  25 
ounces  alum,  dissolved  in  9  pounds  of  boiling 
water.     After  stirring  it  about  half  an  hour, 
add  15  ounces  nitric  acid,  still  continuing  to 
stir  it.      Let  it  stand  48  hours,  when  the  fine 
oil  will  swim  on  the  surface,  and  then  draw  it 
off.      Such  oil  is  used  all  over  Continental 
Europe,  and  an  equal  quantity  yields  double 
the  light  of  whale  and  fish-oil,   without  its 
offensive  odor 

1 49  5 .  Bancroft's  Process  for  Refining 
Lubricating  Oils.  Mr.  Bancroft's  process 
for  refining  common  olive  oil,  lard  oil,  &c., 
for  lubricating  purposes,  is  to  agitate  them 
with  from  3  5  to  8  per  cent,  caustic  soda  lye, 
of  1.2  specific  gravity.  If,  on  trial  of  a  small 
quantity,  the  lye  be  found  to  settle  clear  at 
the  bottom,  enough  has  been  added.  The 
oil  is  allowed  to  rest  for  24  hours,  for  the 
soapy  matter  to  subside ;  the  supernatant  oil 
is  then  filtered.  (See  JNro.  1551.)  Another 
plan  of  purifying  oils  is  to  agitate  them  with 
a  strong  solution  of  common  salt. 


154r 


FIXED    OILS   AND    FATS. 


1496.  Calvert's  Tests  for  the  Purity 
of  Oils.     In  the  use  of  the  following  tests, 
the  result  of  a  series  of  experiments  by  Mr. 
F.  G.  Calvert,  he  recommends  especial  care 
in  the  preparation  of  the  reagents  used  for 
testing,    not   only    as    regards    their   exact 
strength  and  purity,  but  also   in  following 
strictly  the  prescribed  method  of  using  them, 
carefully  noting  the  time  required  for  their 
action  and  effects  to  become  apparent. 

1497.  Calvert's    Caustic    Soda   Test 
for  Oils.     A  solution  of  caustic  soda,  specific 
gravity   1.340,    is  useful  to  distinguish  fish 
from  other  animal  and  vegetable  oils,  owing 
to  the  distinct  red  color  which  the  fish  OH 
assumes ;  the  presence  of  1  per  cent,  of  fish  oil 
will  be  detected  by  the  test.     Add  one  vol- 
ume of  the  test  to  5  volumes  of  the  oil,  well 
mixed,   and    heated  to    the  boiling    point. 
Hempseed  oil  acquires  a  brown-j'ellow  color, 
and  becomes  so  thick  as  to  entirely  lose  its 
fluidity.    Linseed  oil  assumes  a  much  bright- 
er yellow  color,   and  remains  fluid.    India 
nut  oil,  gallipoli  oil,  and  pale  rape  oils,  be- 
come a  solid  white  mass  in  5  minutes,  while 
the  other  oils  remain  fluid. 

1498.  Calvert's  Sulphuric  Acid  Tests 
for  Oils.     I.    Sulphuric  acid  of  specific  grav- 
ity 1.475  will   detect  oils  adulterated  with 
hempseed  and  Unseed  oils  to  the  amount  of 
10  per  cent.      Fish  oil  may  be  detected  to  the 
amount  of  1  per  cent,  by  the  red  color  it  as- 
sumes, this  being  noticed  more  particularly 
when  the  fish  oil  is  allowed  to  separate  by 
standing.     To  apply  the  test  agitate  1  vol- 
ume with  5  volumes  of  the  oil,  and  allow  the 
mixture  to  stand  for  fifteen  minutes. 

II.  For  the  detection  of  hemp,  linseed, 
fish,  gallipoli,  and  French  nut  oils,  1  volume 
of  sulphuric    acid  of  specific  gravity  1.530, 
agitated  with  5  volumes  of  oil,  and   the  mix- 
ture allowed  to  stand  for  5  minutes.      Under 
this  test  the  above  mentioned  oils  alone  as- 
sume a  decided  coloration. 

III.  Sulphuric    acid  of    specific    gravity 
1.635,  used  similar  to  the  preceding,  and  the 
effects  noted  after  standing  2  minutes,  affords 
a  test  under  which  the  colorations  are  dis- 
tinct and  well  marked,  and  will  detect  10  per 
cent,  of  rapeseed  oil  in  olive  oil,  of  lard  oil  in 
poppy  oil,  of  French  nut  oil  in  olive  oil,  and 
of  fish  oil  in  neat' s  foot  oil. 

A  stronger  acid  than  this  carbonizes  the  oils 
and  destroys  the  coloration. 

1499.  Calvert's  Nitric  Acid  Tests  for 
Oils.      The    successive   application  of  nitric 
acid  of  specific  gravity  1.330,  and  of  a  solu- 
tion of  caustic  soda  of  specific  gravity  1.340, 
can  be  successfully  applied  to  detect  the  fol- 
lowing very  frequent  cases  of  adulteration : 

I.  Gallipoli  oil  with   fish  oils ;  the  former 
assumes  no  distinct  color  with  the  acid,  and 
gives  with  soda  a  mass  of  fibrous  consistency, 
while  fish  oils  are   colored  red,  and  become 
^mucilaginous  with  the  alkali. 

II.  Castor  oil  with  poppy  oil ;  the  former, 
if  adulterated,  acquires  a  reddish   tinge,  and 
the  mass  with  the    alkali  loses  much  of  its 
fibrous  appearance. 

III.  Jiapcsccd  oil  with  French   nut  oil; 
under  the  nitric  acid  test  the  former,  if  adul- 
terated, assumes  a  reddish  tinge,  more  or  less 
intense,  which  alkali  increases,  and   renders 
the  semi-saponified  mass  more  fibrous. 


1500.  To   Test  the  Purity  of  Olive 
Oil.     Cooley  says:  When  pure   olive    oil  is 
shaken  in  a  phial  only  half  filled,  the  bead 
or  bubbles   formed   very    rapidly  disappear, 
but  with  the   adulterated  oil    they    remain 
much    longer    before   they    burst.      If  olive 
oil    contains  i  part  of   poppy   oil,    part    of 
it  remains    liquid   at   36°    Fahr.,   its   prop- 
er   freezing    temperature;    and    if    it   con- 
tains £  of  poppy  oil,  it  does  not  solidify  at 
all,  unless  cooled  much  below  the  freezing 
point  of  water.   Pure  olive  oil  well  agitated  for 
some  time  with  ^  of  its  volume  of  nitnc  solu- 
tion of  mercury,  becomes  quite  solid  in  3  or 
4  hours,  without  any  separation  of  liquid  oil. 
(The  mercurial  solution  is  made  by  dissolving 
1  ounce  mercury  in  2  fluid  ounces  1£  drachms 
nitric  acid  specific  gravity  1.500.)    According 
to  M.  Boudet,  1   grain   of  hyponitrous   acid 
(hyponitric?)    mixed  with  3  grains  of  nitric 
acid,  will  cause  the  perfect  solidification  of 
200  grains  of  pure  olive  oil  in  75  to  78  min- 
utes. 

1501.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Castor 
OIL     Castor  oil    is    frequently    adulterated 
with  rape  oil;    but  this  maybe  detected  by 
its  not  dissolving  in  strong  alcohol,   and  also 
by  its  less  density.     Pure  castor  oil  is  soluble 
in  an  equal  weight  of  alcohol  specific  gravity 
0.820. 

1502.  To  Refine  Olive  Oil.      Olive  oil 
intended  for  huiles  antiques   (see  No.  1244) 
and  other  like  uses,  is  commonly  refined  by 
violently  agitating  it  in  glass  or  stoneware, 
with  about  1  i  to  2  per  cent,  of  its  weight  of 
concentrated  sulphuric  acid.    This  renders  it 
opaque,  and  causes  if  to  assume  a  greenish 
color.    After  about  2  weeks'  repose,  it  depos- 
its much  coloring  matter,  and  is  then  found 
to  have  acquired  greater  fluidity,  to  have  be- 
come much  paler,  to  be  more  emollient  and 
glossy  as  a  lubricator,  and  to  burn  with  great- 
er brilliancy.     The  clear  portion  is  now  de- 
canted, well  washed  with  steam  or  hot  water, 
and,  after  sufficient  repose  in  a  close  vessel, 
at  a  temperature  about  60°  Fahr.,  again  de- 
canted,  and,   if   necessary,   filtered   through 
Canton  flannel  or  bibulous  paper.     This  plan 
is  also  applied  to  other  fixed  oils,  and   an- 
swers well  for  most  of  the  recently  express- 
ed vegetable  oils. 

1503.  To  Purify  and  Sweeten  Castor 
Oil.     The   American  Journal   of   Pharmacy 
gives  the  following  receipt  for  this  purpose : 
Take  1000  parts  of  the  oil,  25  parts  purified 
bone-black,  10  parts  calcined  magnesia.     Mix 
them  carefully  in  a  convenient  vessel  of  glass 
or  tinned  iron,  and  let  it  stand  during  3  days, 
with  occasional  agitation,  and  filter  through 
paper  or  felt.     (Sec  No.  lf.04). 

1504.  To  Bleach  the  Vegetable  Oils. 
According  to   Cooley,   almond,   ben,   castor, 
colza,   linseed,  nut,  olive,  poppy,  rape,  teel, 
and  other  like    vegetable    oils,   are    readily 
bleached  by  exposure,  in  glass  bottles,  to  the 
light.     For  this   purpose,  2-quart  to  4-quart 
pale  green  glass  or  blue  glass  bottles  filled 
with  the  oil,  and  covered  with  white  gallipots 
inverted  over  them,   are  suitably   placed,  a 
small  distance  apart,  on  the  roofs  of  houses 
or  sheds,  or  in  any  other  suitable  position, 
fully  exposed  to  the  sun  during  the  greater 
portion  of  the  day,  or  at  all  events  to  the 
south-east  and  south.     14  to  21  days'  exposure 


FIXED    OILS   AND    FATS. 


155 


to  the  sun,  in  clear  weather,  during  summer, 
is  usually  sufficient  to  decolor  castor  oil  and 
almond  oil ;  but  4,  5,  or  even  6  weeks,  is  com- 
monly required  to  render  linseed  oil  very  pale. 
This  is  the  common  plan  adopted  by  the 
wholesale  druggists  to  whiten  their  castor  oil, 
by  some  of  the  perfumers  for  their  almond  oil 
and  olive  oil,  and  by  the  oilmen  for  their  pale 
linseed  oil  for  artists.  A  better  plan,  however, 
when  this  method  is  adopted,  is  to  cork  the 
bottles  loosely  air-tight,  but  not  firmly  down, 
when  the  sun  has  been  on  them  two  or  three 
hours,  and  whilst  they  are  still  heated  with  it. 
In  this  way  the  oil  suffers  less  from  the  ex- 
posure than  by  the  loose  gallipot  system  in 
common  use.  Almond,  olive,  and  the  other 
sweet  oils,  thus  treated,  are  apt  to  lose  some 
of  their  blandness,  and  to  acquire  a  slight 
sulphurous  smell,  and  smoky  flavor,  whilst 
castor  oil  loses  its  original  blandness,  and  as- 
sumes the  strong,  nauseous  flavor  characteris- 
tic of  the  white  castor  oil  of  the  stores.  These 
qualities  may  be  removed  by  agitation  with  a 
little  fresh  animal  charcoal,  dry  freshly  pre- 
pared alumina,  or  calcined  magnesia,  and  sub- 
sequent filtration;  or,  what  is  even  better, 
though  more  troublesome,  by  well  washing 
the  oil  with  hot  water,  and  subsequent  repose 
out  of  contact  with  the  air,  and  subsequent 
decautation.  (See  No.  1503.) 

1505.  To  Bleach  Vegetable  Oils. 
Another  method  pursued  for  bleaching  oils  is 
as  follows :  The  oil  is  placed  in  a  porcelain, 
stoneware,  or  well-tinned  vessel,  along  with 
some  dry  filtering  powder,  1  to  2  pounds  to 
each  gallon  of  the  oil,  or  some  dry  and  re- 
cently prepared  hydrated  alumina  (k  to  -J 
pound  per  gallon  of  oil ;  but  much  less  is 
often  sufficient  if  the  article  be  of  proper 
quality) ;  and  the  heat  of  steam  or  boiling 
water  being  applied,  is  vigorously  stirred, 
wifli  a  clean  wooden  or  stoneware  spatula, 
for  about  an  hour.  It  is  then  thrown  into  a 
Canton  flannel  oil-bag,  and  filtered,  in  the 
usual  manner,  observing  to  return  the  run- 
nings until  they  become  quite  white  and  clear. 
This  is  the  way  perfumers  and  wholesale 
druggists  usually  prepare  their  white  almond 
oil,  white  olive  oil,  and  white  oil  of  6en.  For- 
merly fresh  burnt  animal  charcoal  was  chiefly 
used  for  the  purpose,  and  is  still  so  employed 
by  some  houses ;  but  the  other  substances 
answer  better  and  are  more  convenient. 
( Cooley. ) 

1 506.  To  Bleach  Vegetable  Oils.  The 
oils  referred  to  in  iM  o.  1504,  as  well  as  all  other 
oils  and  fats,  may  be  rendered  perfectly  color- 
less by  agitating  them  with  a  little  chromic 
acid;  or,  what  is  cheaper  and  more  convenient, 
with  a  mixed  solution  of  bichromate  of  po- 
tassa and  sufficient  sulphuric  acid  to  seize  on 
the  alkali  of  the  bichromate  and  to  liberate 
its  chromic  acid.  1  to  2  drachms  of  the  bi- 
chromate, mixed  with  3  times  its  weight  of  oil 
of  vitriol  (previously  diluted  with  about  twice 
its  volume  of  water,  and  allowed  to  cool),  is 
ordinarily  sufficient,  when  skillfully  used,  to 

Eerfectly  bleach  2  or  3  pints  of  oil.  It  should 
e  added  gradually  to  the  oil,  with  continued 
violent  agitation,  and  this  should  be  kept  up 
for  some  considerable  time  after  the  last  por- 
tion is  added.  The  mixture  must  be  made  in 
a  vessel  of  glass,  porcelain,  stoneware,  or 
wood,  and  nothing  metallic  must  touch  it. 


In  some  cases  a  few  drops  of  strong  nitric 
acid  (diluted  with  about  twice  its  bulk  of 
water),  if  added  towards  the  end  of  the  agi- 
tation, will  facilitate  the  process;  or,  with 
colza,  linseed,  nut,  and  rape  oil,  instead  of 
the  diluted  nitric  acid,  a  few  drops  of  hydro- 
chloric acid  without  dilution.  After  the  final 
agitation,  the  oil  must  be  allowed  to  repose  at 
a  temperature  of  about  60°  Fahr.  "When  it 
has  settled,  the  clear  portion  should  be  de- 
canted, thoroughly  washed  with  hot  water, 
again  allowed  to  repose  for  some  time,  and 
then  finally  decanted  for  use.  If  necessary, 
it  may  lastly  be  filtered.  (Cooley.) 

1507.  Berlandt's  Method  of  Bleach- 
ing Fixed  Oils.     Shake  strongly  for  some 
minutes,  300  parts  of  the  oil  with  40  parts 
water    containing    1  part    permanganate  of 
potassa;  allow  the  mixture  to  stand  in  a  warm 
place  for  some  hours,  and  then  filter.    This 
renders  the  oil  colorless. 

1508.  Dieterich's  Method  of  Bleach- 
ing Fixed  Oils.     Dissolve  2^  pounds  (avoir- 
dupois) permanganate  of  potassa  in  31  i  quarts 
water,  in  a  wooden  tub  haying  a  faucet  in 
its  bottom.     Stir  into  the  mixture  52£  quarts 
of  the  oil  to  be  bleached,  and  keep  all  well 
stirred  for  2  days.    Then  add  21  quarts  boil- 
ing water  and  11  pounds  commercial  hydro- 
chloric acid,  and  keep  the  whole  stirred  for  2 
days  longer.    Draw  off  the  acid  water,  and 
wash  the  oil  repeatedly  with  boiling  water 
until  all  acid  is  removed  from  it. 

1 509.  Engelhardt's  Method  of  Bleach- 
ing Palm  Ou.     Heat  1000  parts  by  weight 
palm  oil  in  an  iron  vessel  to  about  143°  Fahr., 
and  let  it  stand  all  night,  sustaining  the  tem- 
perature.   Next  day  pour  it  off  into  a  clean 
vessel  and  let  it  cool  down  to  about  100°. 
Meanwhile,  dissolve  15  parts  bichromate  of 
potash  in  45  parts  boiling  water ;  when  the 
solution  has  cooled  a  little,  pour  into  it  60 
parts  hydrochloric  acid.    Add  this  mixture  to 
the  palm  oil,  stirring  quickly,  and  in  about  5 
minutes  it  will  assume  a  sombre  green  color; 
by  continued  stirring  the  oil  gradually  clari- 
fies and  becomes    quite  limpid.    It  should 
become  quite  white  after  washing  it  with 
warm  water;  but  if  not  entirely  colorless,  the 
operation  must  be  repeated,  using   £    part 
bichromate  of  potash,  and  1  part  hydrochloric 
acid.    This  is  a  quick  method,  and  Eugelhardt 
claims  that  it  produces  better  results  than  the 
means  usually  employed.     (See  No.  537.) 

1510.  To  Bleach   Cotton   Seed   Oil. 
Use  1  gallon  English  caustic  soda,  in  a  solu- 
tion of  about  40°  Baume,  to  about  20  gallons 
crude  oil.     The  oil,  previous  to  being  mixed 
with  the  solution,  must  be  heated  to  about 
90°  Fahr.     Stir  constantly  while  adding  the 
cold  solution.     If  the  oil  is  not  now  sufficiently 
light,  add  more  of  the  solution  to  bring  it  to 
a  light  yellow  or  straw  color. 

1511.  Keyer's  Process  for  Purifying 
Oils.     The  process   of  M.   Keyer,  which  is 
applicable  to  all  oils,  has  given  excellent  re- 
sults in  a  manufactory  of  rape  seed  oil.     Into 
1000  parts  by  weight  of  oil,  put  a  mixture  of 
G  parts  solution  of  ammonia  and  6  parts  wa- 
ter, and  agitate  the  barrel  well  until  the  alkali 
is  perfectly  mixed,  which  may  be  done  in  15 
minutes.     The  barrel  is  then  sealed  hermeti- 
cally, and,  after  3  clays'  repose,   the  oil  is 
decanted  and  filtered.     The  residue  is  used 


156 


FIXED    OILS   AND   FATS. 


for  the  manufacture  of  soap.  Oil  thus  worked 
contains  no  trace  of  acid,  and  the  mucilag- 
inous impurities  are  destroyed  or  precipitated. 
1512.  Liebig's  Method  of  Obtaining 
Non-poisonous  Oil  of  Almonds.  Agitate 
the  crude  distilled  oil  with  binoxide  of  mer- 
cury in  slight  excess ;  and,  after  a  few  days' 
contact,  rectify  the  oil  from  a  little  fresh  bin- 
oxide  of  mercury.  The  product  is  quite  pure, 
if  properly  managed,  as  the  hydrocyanic  acid 
(the  poisonous  principle)  of  the  oil,  unites 
with  the  binoxide  to  form  a  bicyanide  of 
mercury. 

1513.  Neat's-foot  or  Trotter  Oil. 
Obtained  by  boiling  neat's-foot,  tripe,  etc., 
in  water.  It  is  a  coarse  animal  oil,  very 
emollient,  and  much  used  to  soften  leather. 

1514.  To  Refine  Neat's-foot  Oil.    Put 
a  quart  of  the  oil  with  £  pound  bright  lead 
shavings,  and   i  pound  quicklime  pounded, 
into  a  glass  bottle,  let  it  stand  in  the  sun.  and 
light  for  2  or  3  weeks,  then  put  the  oil  and 
lime  into  a  saucepan  with  i  pound  washing 
soda,  boil  gently  15  minutes,  then  set  in  the 
coldest  place  possible  till  the  next  day,  when 
it  will  be  found  congealed;  place  it  into  a 
filter  of  white  blotting  paper,  place  a  clean 
glass  bottle  under  the  filter,  and  you  will  get 
the  finest  oil,  suitable  for  the  most  delicate 
machinery.    Any  one  requiring  a  little  nice 
oil  would  do  well  to  try  this  in  preference  to 
buying  it  ready  done.    It  must  be  kept  per- 
fectly cold  while  filtering,  or  the  soda  will  go 
through. 

1515.  Hirzel's  Method  of  Preserving 
Animal  Fats.     Mix  14  pounds  of  recently 
melted  fat  with  5  drachms  salt  and  15  grains 
alum  in  fine  powder;  heat  until  a  scum  is 
formed  on  the  surface ;  remove  the  scum,  and 
when  the  clear  fat  is  cool,  wash  and  knead  it 
in  water,  frequently  changing  the  water,  so 
as  to  remove  all  the  salt ;  then  evaporate  the 
water  at  a  heat  insufficient  to  injure  the  fat. 

1516.  To  Preserve  Animal  Fats  for 
a  Long  Time.     The  following  mode  of  ben- 
zoating    all  kinds    of   animal    fats    will  be 
found  the  most  effectual  for  preserving  them 
for  a  long  time.     Make    a   saturated  solu- 
tion of  gum   benzoin  in  alcohol   by  simple 
heat,  allow  the  liquid  to  settle  oiear,  then 
strain  and  mix  with  equal  parts  of  fresh  castor 
oil.     Of  this  mixture  add  4  ounces  to  each 
gallon  of  fat  or  ointment  while  warm.     The 
proportion  of  the  solution  of  benzoin  may  be 
increased  for  pomades,  as  it  forms,  by  its  aro- 
matic odor,  an  excellent  basis  for  perfumes. 
The  ben/oatic  fat  should  not  be  kept  in  tin, 
but  in    well-covered   jars.      Steam-rendered 
lard,   or  that  treated   with   salt  and    alum, 
should  be  carefully  re-melted  in  a  water-bath, 
to  allow  all  the  water  to  settle  so  as  to  pour 
off  the  pure  fat.     In  preparing  ointment  and 
pomades  it  is  important  that  the  wax  should 
be  first  melted,  and  the  oil  or  fat  warmed 
before  adding  to  the  wax.     This  precaution, 
which  will  save  much  time  and  trouble,  is 
often  neglected  by  young  beginners.     (See 
Nos.  1253  and  1254.) 

1517.  Boillot's  Process  for  Purify- 
ing Fats.     Melt  2|  pounds  avoirdupois  of 
the  fat  with  2  quarts  lime-water;    stir  act- 
ively over  the  fire  for  2  or  3  hours,  and  cool. 
Then  press  in  flannel  and  allow  it  to  stand  a 
day  or  two  to  harden.     By  melting  it  with 


acidulated  water  to  remove  the  excess  of 
lime,  a  hard  fat  .results,  suitable  for  making 
candles. 

1518.  Hog's    Lard.      This  is  obtained, 
like  the  rest  of  the  animal  fats,  from  the  raw 
lard,  by  chopping  it  fine,  or  rather  rolling  it 
out,  to  break  the  cells  in  which  the  fat  is 
lodged,  and  then  melting  the  fat  in  a  water- 
bath,  or  other  gentle  heat,  and  straining  it 
while  warm.     Some  boil  them  in  water ;  but 
the  fats  thus  obtained  are  apt  to  grow  rank 
much  sooner  than  when  melted  by  themselves. 
(See  No.  525.) 

1519.  To  Try  out  Lard.     This  should 
be  done  in  the  open  air.     Set  a  large  kettle 
over  a  fire,  in  some  sheltered  place,  on  a  still 
day.      It  will  cook    much  quicker  in  large 
quantities.     Put  into  the  kettle  while  the  lard 
is  cold,  a  little  saleratus,  say  1  table-spoonful 
to  every  20  pounds;    stir  almost  constantly 
when  nearly  done  till  the  scraps  are  brown 
and  crisp,  or  until  the  steam  ceases  to  rise ; 
then  there    is  no  danger  of  its  moulding; 
strain  out  into  pans,  and  the  first  will  be 
ready  to  empty  into  crocks  when  the  last  is 
strained. 

1520.  To   Detect   Water   in   Lard. 
The  presence  of  water  is  very  easily  detected 
by  merely  melting  the  lard,  when  the  water 
collects  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  as  a  dis- 
tinct layer.    The  weight  and  volume  of  lard 
can  be  greatly  increased  by  the  incorporation 
of  water  with  it ;  and  purchasers  of  a  pound 
of  lard  will  frequently  find   thai;  they  have 
paid  the  price  of  the  lard  for  as  much  as  4 
ounces  of  water.     Lard  is  also  adulterated 
with  from  2  to  5  per  cent,  of  milk  of  lime 
(slacked  lime  mixed  to  a  milky  consistence 
with  water) ;  this  gives  the  lard  a  beautifully 
white  appearance,  and  also  allows  of  25  per 
cent,   of  water  being  stirred    into  it .  While 
cooling. 

1521.  Benzoated  Lard.     Take  benzoin 
in    coarse  powder,   1    ounce;    fresh   lard,   1 
pound.     Heat  together  for  2  or  3  hours  in  a 
water-bath,  and  then  strain. 

1522.  To  Bleach  Lard.     Lard  maybe 
bleached  by  applying  a  mixture  of  bichromate 
of  potassa  and  muriatic  acid,  in  minute  pro- 
portions, to  the  fat.     (See  Nos.  1509  and  1523, 
also  No.  537.) 

1 523.  To  Bleach  and  Harden  Tallow. 
In  a  copper  boiler,  put  •£  gallon  water,  and  100 
pounds  rendered  tallow ;    melt  over  a   slow 
fire,  and  add,  while  stirring,  1  pound  of  oil  of 
vitriol,  previously  diluted  with  12  of  water; 
afterwards,  i  pound  bichromate  of  potassa,  in 
powder ;    and    lastly,   13    pints  water,   after 
which  the  fire  is  suffered  to  go  down,  when 
the  tallow  will  collect  on  the  surface  of  the 
dark  green  liquid,  from  which  it  is  separated. 
It  is  then  of  a  fine  white,  slightly  greenish 
color,  and  possesses  a  considerable  degree  of 
hardness.     (See  No.  1509.) 

1524.  Factitious  or  Imitation  Sper- 
maceti.    White  spermaceti,  10  parts  ;  sonor- 
ous cake   stearine,  20  parts;    potato  starch, 
5  parts;  mucilage,  1  part.     Melt  the  first  three 
and  unite  well,  then  let  the  mass  cool  to  the 
consistence  of  dough ;  turn  it  out  on  an  oiled 
marble  or  lead  slab,  and  roll  it  into  a  cake ; 
next  sprinkle  a  little  mucilage  on  it,  double 
it,  and  roll  again;  repeat  the  process  as  often 
as  required  ;  lastly  allow  it  to  cool.     If  it  has 


PETROLEUM,    Oil    CRUDE    COAL    OIL 


157 


been  properly  managed,  it  will  flake  when 
broken  up,  and  resemble  spermaceti. 

1525.  Extraction  of  Fat  from  Bones. 
A  process  has  been  adopted  abroad  for  ex- 
tracting oil  and  tat  from  bones  and  other 
animal  refuse,  by  digesting  it  in  a  closed  and 
heated  vessel  with  benzole  or  similar  hydro- 
carbon. After  a  few  hours  the  liquid  is  drawn 
off,  the  hydrocarbon  separated  by  distillation, 
and  the  oil  is  left  ready  for  use.  The  bones 
may  then  be  used  for  the  manufacture  of  gela- 
tine. This  is  very  similar  to  a  method  lately 
proposed  of  obtaining  oil  from  oleaginous 
seeds,  but  in  this  latter  case,  as  would  proba- 
bly be  preferable  in  the  former,  bisulphide  of 
carbon  is  the  menstruum  employed. 


Petroleum,  or  Crude  Coal 
Oil.  The  name  of  petroleum  is  now 
applied  to  all  the  native  liquid  substances 
which  have  a  bituminous  character.  It  con- 
sists, therefore,  of  an  inflammable  and  more 
or  less  volatile  oily  substance,  ranging  in  color 
and  appearance  from  a  yellowish  white,  trans- 
parent fluid,  to  a  brown  or  almost  black, 
opaque  viscid  mass.  The  former  used  to  be 
called  naphtha,  but  this  name  is  now  given  to 
any  oil  of  this  description,  whether  native,  or 
distilled  from  &  darker  grade  of  petroleum. 
The  latter  is  the  form  iu  which  the  bulk  of  the 
petroleum  is  found  in  America;  and  this, 
when  exposed  to  the  air,  gradually  passes  into 
asphaltum,  or  solid  bitumen. 

1527.  To  Purify  Petroleum.  Tank- 
shaped  stills  of  a  capacity  of  500  to  2500  bar- 
rels are  filled  with  crude  oil,  and  heat  applied 
by  furnaces  beneath  them,  causing  vapors  to 
arise,  which  are  carried  forward  through  pipes 
immersed  in  water,  and  condensed  into  a 
liquid,  which  runs  out  at  the  end  of  the  pipe. 
The  first  product  is  gasoline,  a  very  light 
hydrocarbon,  marking  as  high  as  83°  and 
as  low  as  75°  of  Baume"'s  coal  oil  hydrom- 
eter. The  heat  is  then  somewhat  increased, 
and  the  next  product  obtained  is  called 
naphtha,  benzine  (not  benzole),  which  marks 
from  75°  to  63°  Baum6;  and,  when  com- 
bined, will  average  about  67°.  The  heat  be- 
ing allowed  to  increase  further,  produces  dis- 
tillate, or  crude  burning  oil.  This  passes  over 
until  about  8  or  10  per  cent,  of  the  original 
quantity  contained  in  the  still  remains,  which 
is  called  residuum  or  tar,  and  may  be  redistilled 
for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  paraffine  and 
lubricating  oil.  Paraffine  is  a  fatty  material, 
resembling  sperm  in  appearance.  The  distil- 
late or  crude  burning  oil  is  converted  into  or- 
dinary kerosene  by  a  process  of  purification. 
For  this  purpose  it  is  placed  in  a  tank,  where 
it  is  violently  agitated  by  forcing  air  through 
it,  and  while  thus  agitated,  14-  to  2  per  cent, 
sulphuric  acid  is  added,  after  which  the  agita- 
tion is  continued  15  to  30  minutes.  The  oil  is 
then  allowed  to  settle,  when  the  acid  and  im- 
purities are  drawn  from  the  bottom.  The  oil 
is  then  washed,  first  with  water  and  then 
with  caustic  soda,  by  which  means  the  re- 
maining impurities  are  removed,  and  any  acid 
remaining  in  the  oil  is  neutralized.  It  is  then 
taken  to  shallow  bleaching  tanks,  where  it  is 
exposed  to  light  and  air,  and  allowed  to  settle; 


it  is  next  heated  by  means  of  a  coil  of  steam 
pipe  running  through  it,  to  expel  all  gaseous 
vapors  which  will  ignite  at  a  temperature  be- 
low 110°  Fahr.  The  oil  is  now  called  a  fire 
test  oil,  and  is  ready  to  be  barreled  and  sent 
to  market. 

1528.  To  Clarify  Coal  Oil.     Place  in  a 
close  vessel  100  pounds  crude  coal  oil,  25 
quarts  water,  1  pound  chloride  of  lime,  1  pound 
soda,  and  i  pound  oxide  of  manganese.    The 
mixture  is  violently  agitated,  and  allowed  to 
rest  for  24  hours,  when  the  clear  oil  is  decant- 
ed and  distilled.    The  100  pounds  coal  oil  are 
to  be  mixed  with  25  pounds  resin  oil ;  this  is 
one  of  the  principal  points  in  the  manipula- 
tion ;   it  removes  the  gummy  parts  from  the 
oil,  and  renders  them  inodorous.    The  distil- 
lation spoken  of  may  terminate  the  process,  or 
the  oils  may  be  distilled  before  they  are  de- 
fecated and  precipitated. 

1529.  To  Decolorize   Kerosene  Oil. 
Kerosene  oil  is  decolorized  by  stirring  it  up 
with  1  or  2  per  cent,  of  oil  of  vitriol,  which 
will  carbonize  the  coloring  matter,  then  with 
some  milk  of  lime  or  some    other    caustic 
alkali,  settling,  and  redistilling.     The  latter 
appears  to  be  indispensable. 

1530.  Why   Kerosene   or  Coal  Oils 
Explode.      No  oil  is  explosive    in  and  of 
itself;  it  is  only  when  the  vapor  arising  there- 
from becomes  mixed  in  the  proper  proportions 
with  air,  that  it  will  explode.    There  should  be 
no  inflammable  vapor  from  any  oil  used  for 
burning  in  lamps  at  ordinary  temperature.    A 
volatile  oil  is  unfit  for  the  purpose  of  illumi- 
nation. 

1531.  To  Test  Kerosene  or  Coal  Oil. 
Burning  oil  is  often  adulterated  with  heavy 
oil,  or  with  benzine.    The  adulteration  with 
the  former  is  shown  by  dimness  of  the  flame 
after  having  burned  for  some  time,  accom- 
panied by  a  charring  of  the  wick.    The  latter 
may  be  readily  detected  by  means  of  a  ther- 
mometer, a  little  warm  water,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  the  oil.     Fill  the  cup  with  warm 
water,   the  temperature  of  which  is  to   be 
brought  to  110°  Fahr.    Pour  the  oil  on  the 
water;   apply  flame  to  the  floating  oil    by 
match  or  otherwise.    If  the  oil  is  unsafe  it 
will    take  fire,  and  its  use  in  the    lamp  is 
dangerous,  for  it  is  liable  to  explode.     But  if 
the  oil  is  safe  and  good  it  will  not  take  fire. 
All  persons  who  sell  kerosene  that  will  not 
stand  the  fire  test  at  110°  are  liable  to  prose- 
cution. 

1532.  To  Extinguish  the  Flame  of 
Petroleum  or  Benzine.      Water,  unless  in 
overwhelming  quantity,  will  not  extinguish 
the  flame  of  petroleum  or  benzine.      It  may, 
however,  be  speedily  smothered  by  a  woolen 
cloth  or  carpet,  or  a  wet  muslin  or  linen  cloth, 
or  earth  or  sand  being  thrown  over  it.    These 
act  by  excluding  the  air,  without  which  com- 
bustion cannot  be  maintained. 

1533.  To  Deodorize  Benzine.    Shake 
repeatedly  with  plumbate  of  soda  (oxide  of 
lead  dissolved  in  caustic  soda),  and  rectify. 
The  following  plan  is  said  to  be  better :  Shako 
repeatedly   with    fresh  portions    of   metallic 
quicksilver ;  let  stand  for  2  days,  and  rectify. 

1534.  To  Manage  Kerosene  Lamps. 
These  are  so  much  used  that  a  few  hints  on 
their  management  will  no  doubt  be  accepta- 
ble.   There  are  very  few  common  illumina- 


158 


L  UBRICA  TORS. 


ting  substancss  that  produce  a  light  as  bril- 
liant and  steady  as  kerosene  oil,  but  its  full 
brilliancy  is  rarely  attained,  through  want  of 
attention  to  certain  requisite  points  in  its 
management.  By  following  the  directions 
here  given,  the  greatest  amount  of  light  will  be 
obtained,  combined  with  economy  in  the  con- 
sumption of  the  oil.  The  wick,  oil,  lamp,  and 
all  its  appurtenances,  must  be  perfectly  clean. 
The  chimney  must  be  not  only  clean,  but  clear 
and  bright.  The  wick  must  be  trimmed  ex- 
actly square,  across  the  wick -tube,  and  not 
over  the  curved  top  of  the  cupola  used  to 
spread  the  flame ;  after  trimming,  raise  the 
wick,  and  cut  off  the  extreme  corners  or 
points.  A  wick  cannot  be  trimmed  well  with 
dull  scissors ;  the  sharper  the  scissors,  the  bet- 
ter the  shape  of  the  flame.  These  hints,  sim- 
ple as  they  appear,  are  greatly  disregarded, 
and  the  consequence  is  a  flame  dull,  yellow, 
and  apt  to  smoke.  The  burners  made  with 
an  immovable  cupola,  and  straight,  cylindrical 
chimneys,  require  especial  care  in  trimming ; 
the  wick  has  to  be  raised  above  the  cupola, 
and  has  therefore  no  support  when  being 
trimmed.  A  kerosene  lamp,  with  the  wick 
turned  down,  so  as  to  make  a  small  flame, 
should  not  be  placed  in  a  sleeping  room  at 
night.  A  wick  made  of  felt  is  greatly  supe- 
rior in  every  way  to  the  common  cotton  wicks. 

1535.  To     Keep    Kerosene    Lamps 
from  Getting  Greasy.     The  upper  part  of 
a  kerosene  oil  lamp,  after  standing  for  a  short 
time,  frequently  gets  oily,  from  the  condensa- 
tion of  the  vapor  of  the  oil.     This  will  be 
greatly,  if  not  entirely  prevented,  by  taking 
a  piece  of  felt  and  cutting  a  hole  in  it  so  as  to 
fit  exactly  around  the  socket  into  which  the 
burner  is  screwed ;    trim  the  felt  off  so  as  to 
leave  a  rim  about  £  inch  wide,  and  place  this 
felt  ring  on  the  socket. 

1536.  To    Cement  the    Socket  on  a 
Kerosene  Lamp.     The  socket  of  a  kerosene 
lamp,  into  which  the  burner  is  screwed,  fre- 
quently becomes  loose  or  comes  off.    To  fas- 
ten this,  take  the  socket  off,  pick  out  the  old 
cement,  and  wash  it  with  hot  soap  and  wa- 
ter, with  a  little  soda,  to  remove  all  trace  of 
grease.     Empty  the  lamp,  and  wash  it  in  the 
same  manner,  especially  the  lip  or  neck  which 
fits  into  the  socket.      Next  take  a  cork  which 
fits  (not  too  tight)  into  the  socket ;  grease  it 
slightly,  and  screw  it  into  the  socket  (the 
eome  way  the  burner    is   screwed  in),  until 
the  end  of  the  cork  is  nearly  level  with  the 
bottom  of  the  socket;  this  will  leave  a  circu- 
lar trench  to  receive  the  cement.      Take  the 
best  plaster  of  Paris,  mix  it  quickly  as  thick 
as  it  will  flow,  fill  the  trench  in  the  socket, 
reverse  the  lamp,  and  press  the  lip  of  the  glass 
firmly  into  the  socket  until  the  edge  of  the 
socket  fits  closely  to  the  glass.     This  opera- 
tion must  be  done  quickly,  before  the  plaster 
has  had  time  to  set.      Let  the  whole  remain 
about  12  hours  in  a  warm  place  before  using. 
Then  unscrew  the  cork  and  scrape  off  any 
adhering  plaster.     (See  No.  2260.) 

1 537.  To  Clean  Vessels  Used  to  Con- 
tain Kerosene.     "Wash  the  vessel  with  thin 
milk  of  lime,  which  forms  an  emulsion  with 
the  petroleum,  and  removes  every  trace  of  it, 
and  by  washing  a  second  time  with  milk  of 
lime  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  chloride  of 
lime,  and  allowing  the  liquid  to  remain  in  it 


about  an  hour,  and  then  using  it  with  cold 
water,  even  the  smell  may  be  so  completely 
removed  as  to  render  the  vessel  thus  cleansed 
fit  for  keeping  beer  in.  At  the  same  time  the 
external  surface  of  the  vessel  is  to  be  washed 
with  a  rag  dipped  in  the  same  substance.  If 
the  milk'of  lime  be  used  warm,  instead  of 
cold,  the  operation  is  rendered  much  shorter. 
If  particles  of  thickened  petroleum  adhere  to 
the  glass  after  the  first  washing,  these  can  be 
removed  by  washing  with  fine  sand,  or  by 
other  mechanical  means. 

1538.  To  Clean  Kerosene  Lamps. 
"Wash  the  lamp  inside  and  out  thoroughly 
with  hot  soap  and  water,  and  a  little  washing 
soda.  When  clean,  rinse  repeatedly  so  as  to 
leave  no  trace  of  soap;  let  it  drain  till  dry. 


P  TlTDriCSltOrS.  Compounds  to  les- 
I  J  sen  the  friction  in  machinery,  and  to 
prevent  the  bearings  from  rusting.  Lubrica- 
tors must  possess  a  certain  amount  of  co- 
hesive and  adhesive  attraction.  But  they 
must  also  have  the  power  to  retain  their 
cohesion  and  fluidity  under  the  action  of 
moderate  heat,  heavy  pressure,  and  contact 
with  metals  and  air.  The  oxygen  of  the  air 
attacks  many  kinds  of  oils,  rendering  some 
acid  and  others  resinous  ;  and  moreover  some 
oils  of  mineral  extraction  are  contaminated 
with  acids,  used  in  their  rectification,  which  at- 
tack metallic  surfaces,  the  oxides  of  the  metals 
thus  produced  increasing  friction  mechani- 
cally. The  oxides  of  metals  have  the  power 
of  saponifying  vegetable  and  animal  oils,  and 
no  doubt  this  combination  often  takes  place 
when  oils  of  this  kind  are  used  on  rusty  .bear- 
ings. The  soaps  formed  by  the  union  of  the 
saponifiable  parts  of  oils  with  metallic  oxides 
are  hard  and  insoluble,  and  are,  therefore, 
much  less  perfect  lubricators  than  the  oils 
themselves.  Some  oils,  more  particularly 
those  extracted  from  petroleum,  are  volatile, 
and  evaporate  as  soon  as  journals  become 
slightly  heated.  Oils  possessing  these  de- 
fects are  unfit  for  purposes  of  general  lubrica- 
tion. Probably  nothing  else  has  ever  been 
discovered  that  possesses  in  so  high  a  degree 
all  the  properties  desirable  in  a  lubricator  as 
good,  pure  sperm  oil.  There  have  been,  how- 
ever, some  close  approximations  to  it  in  oils 
extracted  from  petroleum.  Many  of  the  lat- 
ter are,  nevertheless,  very  inferior.  Some  ex- 
cellent lubricating  oils  are  also  obtained  from 
various  seeds.  The  olive  and  the  castor  bean 
furnish  oils  very  good  for  lubrication.  Olive 
oil  is,  however,  too  expensive  for  general  ap- 
plication to  this  purpose.  (See  No.  1495.) 

1540.  Sperm  Oil  as  a  Lubricator  for 
Heavy  Machinery.  The  superiority  of 
winter  sperm  oil  has  been  fully  established 
by  experiments  made  during  14  months,  on 
the  car  and  locomotive  axles  of  a  leading  line 
of  railroad ;  these  went  to  prove  that  when 
using  mineral,  animal  or  fish  oils,  it  required 
from  100  to  400  per  cent,  more  of  these  oils 
to  keep  the  temperature  of  the  journals  below 
100°  Fahr.  than  when  winter  sperm  oil  was 
employed ;  and  in  no  instance  could  the  pres- 
sure on  the  car-shaft  be  raised  to  8,000  pounds 
with  any  other  oil.  It  was  also  established 


WATERPROOFING. 


159 


that  uiider  various  velocities,  the  amount  of 
this  oil  consumed  ia  lubrication  decreased  in 
almost  the  same  ratio  as  the  velocity ;  and 
as  the  velocity  and  the  requisite  amount  of 
oil  was  diminished,  the  pressure  could  be  in- 
creased without  any  increased  consumption 
of  oil. 

1541.  Booth's  Axle  Grease.    This  pop- 
ular axle  grease  is  made  as  follows :  Dissolve 
i  pound  common  soda  in  1  gallon  water,  add 
3  pounds  tallow  and  six  pounds  palm  oil  (or 

10  pounds  of  palm  oil  only).     Heat  them  to- 
gether to  200°  or  210°  Fahr.;    mix,  and  keep 
the  mixture  constantly  stirred  till  the  compo- 
sition is  cooled  down  to  60°  or  70°. 

1542.  Thin  Axle  Grease.     A  thinner 
composition  than  the  last   is  made   with  & 
pound  soda,  1  gallon  water,  1  gallon  rape  oil, 
and  J  pound  tallow,  or  palm  oil. 

1543.  French  Idard  for  Lubrication. 
The  French  compound,  called  liard,  is  thus 
made  :    Into  50  parts  of  finest  rape  oil  put 
1  part  of  caoutchouc,  cut  small.    Apply  heat 
until  it  is  nearly  all  dissolved. 

1544.  Bavarian   Anti-Friction  Com- 
position.     This  composition   has  been  em- 
ployed in  Munich  with  success  and  economy 
to  diminish  friction  in  machinery.  It  consists  of 
10i  parts  pure  hog's  lard  melted  with  2  parts 
finely  pulverized  and  sifted  plumbago.     The 
lard  is  first  to  be  melted  over  a  moderate  fire, 
then  the  plumbago  is  thoroughly  mixed  in,  a 
handful  at  a  time,  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and 
stirred  until  the  mixture  is  of  a  uniform  com- 
position.    This  is  applied  in  its  cold  state  with 
a  brush  to  the  pivots,  the  cogs  of  the  wheels, 
&c.,  and  seldom  more  than  once  in  24  hours. 
It  was  found  that  this  composition  replaced 
satisfactorily  the  oil,  tallow  and  tar  used  in 
certain  iron- works,  and  saved  about  four-fifths 
of  the  cost  of  those  articles. 

1545.  Lubricator  for  Wagon  Axles. 
Tallow,  8  pounds;  palm  oil,  10  pounds;  and 
plumbago,  1  pound,  make  a  good  lubricator 
for  wagon  axles.      A  mixture    of  glycerine 
and  plumbago  makes  a  fine  liquid  lubricator. 

1546.  Mankettrick's      Lubricating 
Compound.     4  pounds  caoutchouc  dissolved 
in  spirits  of  tm-peutine,   10  pounds  common 
soda,  1  pound  glue  dissolved  in  10  gallons  wa- 
ter, 10  gallons  of  oil  thoroughly  incorporated 
by  assiduous  stirring,  adding  the  caoutchouc 
last. 

1547.  Anti- Attrition  Grease.      Grind 
together  blacklead  with  four  times  its  weight 
of  lard  or  tallow.      This  is  used  to  lessen 
friction  in  machinery,   and  to  prevent  iron 
rusting.     It  was  once  a  patent  article.    Cam- 
phor is  sometimes    added,  7  pounds   to  the 
cwt. 

1548.  Anti-Friction    Grease.       Boil 
together  If  cwt.    tallow  with  li  cwt.  palm 
oil.     When  boiling  point  is  reached,  allow  it 
to  cool  to  blood-heat,  stirring  it  meanwhile, 
then    strain  through   a  sieveinto^a  solution 
of  $  cwt.  soda  in  3  gallons  water,  mixing  it 
well.    The  above  is  for  summer.     For  winter, 

11  cwt.  tallow  to  If  cwt.  palm  oil.      Spring 
and  autumn,  li  tallow,  li  palm  oil. 

1549.  Watchmakers'  Oil.     Prepared 
by  placing  a  strip  of  clean  lead  in  a   small 
white  glass  bottle  filled  with  olive  oil,  and  ex- 
posing it  to  the  sun's  rays  at  a  window  for 
some  time,  till  a  curdy  matter  ceases  to  de- 


posit, and  the  oil  has  become  quite  limpid  and 
colorless.  Used  for  fine  work ;  does  not  get 
thick  by  age.  (See  No.  1551.)  Or: — expose 
the  finest  porpoise  oil  to  the  lowest  natural 
temperature  attainable.  It  will  separate  into 
two  portions,  a  thick,  solid  mass  at  the  bot- 
tom, and  a  thin,  oily  supernatant  liquid.  This 
is  to  be  poured  off  while  at  the  low  tempera- 
ture named,  and  is  then  fit  for  use.  Delicate 
clocks  and  watches  are  now  lubricated  with 
glycerine. 

1550.  To  Prepare  Oleine  for  Watch- 
makers' Use.      Oleine  is  the  liquid  portion 
of  oil  and  fat;    by   saponilication    it  yields 
oleic  acid.  Almond  or  olive  oil  is  agitated  in 
a  stout  bottle  with  7  or  8  times  its  weight  of 
strong  alcohol  specific  gravity  .793,  at  nearly 
the  boiling  point,  until  the  whole  is  dissolved ; 
the  solution  is  allowed  to  cool,  after  which  the 
clear  fluid  is  decanted  from  the  stearine  which 
has  been  deposited,  and  after  filtration,  the 
spirit  is  removed  by  distillation  at  a  gentle 
heat.     By  exposure  "at  a  very  low  temperature 
it  deposits  any  remaining  stearine,  and  then 
becomes  pure. 

1551.  To  Refine  Oil  for  Fine  Mechan- 
ism.    Refined  oil  for  fine  mechanism  can  be 
prepared  by  putting  zinc  and  lead  shavings,  in 
equal  parts,  into  good  Florence  olive  oil,  and 
placing  in  a  cool  place  till  the  oil  becomes 
colorless.    (See  No.  1495.) 


Waterproofing.    Numerous 
plans  have  been  invented  for  ren- 
dering cloth  and  felting  waterproof:   the  best 
methods  adopted  are  given  in  Ihe  following 
receipts  : 

1553.  Waterproof  Porous  Cloth.    A 
porous    waterproof  cloth  is  the  best  for  outer 
garments  during  wet  weather,  for  those  whose 
duties  or  labor  causes  them  to  perspire  freely. 
The  best  way  for  preparing  such  cloth  is  by 
the  process  adopted  for  the    tunics  of  the 
French  soldiers  during  the  Crimean  war.    It 
is  as  follows :  Take  2J  pounds  alum  and  dis- 
solve in  10  gallons  boiling  water ;   then  in  a 
separate  vessel    dissolve  the   same  quantity 
sugar  of  lead  in  10  gallons  of  water,  and  mix 
the  two  solutions.     The  cloth  is  now  well  han- 
dled in  this  liquid,  until  every  part  of  it  is 
penetrated ;  then  it  is  squeezed  and  dried  in 
the  air,  or  in  a  warm  apartment,  then  washed 
in  cold  water  and  dried  again,  when  it  is  fit  for 
use.     If  necessary,  the  cloth  may  be  dippedin 
the  liquid  and  dried  twice  before  being  wash- 
ed.     The    liquor  appears  curdled  when  the 
alum  and  lead  solutions  are  mixed  together. 
This  is  the  result  of  double  decomposition, 
the   sulphate  of   lead,   which    is  an  insolu- 
ble salt,    being    formed.    The     sulphate  of 
lead    is   taken     up    in    the    pores    of  the 
cloth,    and    it    is    unaffected    by   rains    or 
moisture,  and  yet   it    does    not  render  the 
cloth  air-tight.     Such   cloth   is  also  partially 
non-inflammable.      A  solution  of  alum  itself 
will  render  cloth,  prepared  as  described,  par- 
tially waterproof,  but  it  is  not  so  good  as  the 
sulphate  of  lead.    Such  cloth — cotton  or  wool- 
en— sheds  rain  like  the  feathers  on  the  back 
of  a  duck. 

1554.  To  Waterproof  Tweed  Cloaks. 
Dissolve  4  pound  alum  in  two  quarts  boiling 


160 


WA  TER  PROOFING. 


water,  and  pour  the  solution  into  a  vessel 
containing  2  gallons  cold  spring  water. 
Immerse  the  garment  in  this  vessel,  and  let 
it  remain  24  hours.  Dissolve  i  pound  sugar 
of  lead  in  2  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  pour 
the  solution  into  another  vessel  containing  2 
gallons  of  cold  spring  water.  Take  the  gar- 
ment from  the  first  vessel,  gently  wring  or 
press  it,  and  immerse  it  in  the  second  vessel. 
Let  it  remain  6  hours,  gently  wring  it,  and 
hang  it  in  the  shade  to  dry.  This  receipt  has 
been  tried,  and  found  to  answer  admirably. 
It  is  very  similar  to  the  last,  but  only  half  the 
quantity  of  sugar  of  lead  is  used,  and  the 
cloth  is  immersed  in  the  solutions  separately. 

1555.  Cooley's   Method  of  Making 
Cloth  Waterproof.      This  is  a  simple,  but 
perfectly    successful     method    of    rendering 
cloth  waterproof  without  being,  at  the  same 
time,   airproof.      Spread  the  cloth  on    any 
smooth  surface,  and  rub  the  wrong  side  with 
a  lump  of  bees'  wax  (perfectly  pure  and  free 
from  grease),  until  the    surface    presents  a 
slight,  but  uniform,  white  or  grayish  appear- 
ance.   If  this  be  done  carefully  and  thor- 
oughly, a  lighted  candle  may  be  blown  out 
through  the  cloth,  if  coarse ;  and  yet  a  piece 
of  the  same,  placed  across  an  inverted  hat, 
may  have  several  glassfulls  of  water  poured 
into  the  hollow  formed  by  it,  without  any  of 
the  liquid  passing  through ;    pressure  or  fric- 
tion will  alone  make  it  do  so. 

1556.  French  Waterproof  Felting. 
This  composition,  heretofore    regarded  as  a 
secret  in  France,  has  been  adopted  for  use  in 
the  French  navy.      The  information  regard- 
ing this  material  was  furnished  by  Mr.  Parent 
to  the  "Journal  of  Applied  Chemistry."  The 
inoxidizable  compound  for  waterproof  is  made 
thus :  106i  parts,  by  weight,  India  rubber,  175 
parts  finely  sifted  sawdust,  10  parts  powdered 
sulphur,  25  parts  slacked  lime,  125  parts  sul- 
phate of  alumina,  125  parts  sulphate  of  iron, 
10  parts  hemp  tow.    To  mix  the  above,  use 
heated    cylinders,   so    as  to  obtain    a  very 
homogeneous  paste,  which  is  made  into  thin 
cakes,  and  afterward  divide  into  small  pieces 
to  be  dissolved.    To  dissolve  this  substance, 
take  4J  pounds  spirits  of  turpentine,  benzine, 
(common    is  preferable),  petroleum,  or  sul- 
phuret  of  carbon,  to  2i  pounds  of  the  mixture. 
It  must  be  stirred  5  or  6  times  during  24 
hours,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the  mass  will 
be  thoroughly  dissolved.    The  solution  is  then 
spread  on  the  fabrics  or  articles  to  be  preserv- 
ed, by  means  of  rollers,  knives,  or  spatulas, 
adapted  to  the  purpose.     Apply    as  many 
coats  as  may  be  necessary,  and  then  let  it  dry. 
As  soon  as  the  fabric  is  dry,  it  is  passed  un- 
der pasteboard  laminating  rollers,  in  order  to 
give  a  lustre  to  the  surface.     The  fabric  is 
then  rolled  up  on  a  hollow  iron  pipe,  which  is 
covered  with  cloth  to  prevent  it  sticking  to 
the  iron,  and  the  whole  placed  in  a  copper 
'pipe,  with  a  perforated  lid  or  cover ;  steam  is 
[then    introduced  at  a  pressure  of  4  atmo- 
spheres, which  pressure  is  maintained  for  1 
hour,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the  operation 
is  ended.    If  it  be  desired  to  give  these  im- 
permeable covers  a  black  color,  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  nut-gall  and  logwood  is  ap- 
plied with  a  brush. 

1557.  To   Make    Waterproof    Joint 
Closers.   Caps  or  joint  closers  can  be  made  of 


about  the  same  materials  as  the  above  by  ob- 
serving the  following  proportions:  Dissolve 
21£  parts,  by  weight,  of  India  rubber,  in  suf- 
ficient benzine;  then  mix  with  it  15  parts 
sawdust,  2  parts  sulphur,  3  parts  red  lead,  and 
5  parts  each  of  alum,  slacked  lime,  and  hemp 
tow,  adding  benzine  to  make  the  whole  into 
a  paste.  For  closing  the  joints  on  steam  en- 
gines, hydraulic  pumps,  &c. 

1558.  To   Bender   Articles    Water- 
proof.    A  patent    has  recently  been  taken 
out  in  Paris  for  a  method  of  rendering  paper, 
cloth,  cork,  sponge,  and  other  porous  sub- 
stances waterproof,  as  well  as  articles  manu- 
factured from  these  materials,  including  bank- 
notes, envelopes,  gloves,  clothing,  paper  col- 
lars, umbrellas,  labels,  &c.    The  process  con- 
sists in  dissolving  parafBne,  cut  up  in  small 
slices,  in  pure  naphtha  or  benzine,  entirely  free 
from  fat  or  oil.     The  solution  is  to  be  made 
in  a  vessel  with  a  glass  stopper,  and  is  to  be 
shaken  repeatedly  until  the  result  is  accom- 
plished.     An  excess  of  paraffine  should  be 
used,  so  as  to  make  sure  of  having  a  perfectly 
saturated  solution.      The  articles  to  be  treat- 
ed are  immersed  in  this  for  a  time,  according 
to  the  thickness  or  porosity  of  the  tissue,  and 
arranged  to  secure  either  a  complete  satura- 
tion   or    the    penetration    of   the  liquid   to 
any    required    depth.       After   removal,  the 
articles    are    to    be    dried    by    the    appli- 
cation of  heat,  or  in  the  air.    The  solvent 
evaporates,  leaving  the  paper  or  other  sub- 
stance saturated  with  paraffine  impermeabla 
to  water,  and  capable  of  resisting  the  action 
of  acids.      Articles  of  dress,  such  as   paper 
collars  and  wristbands,  should  be  subjected  to 
the  action  of  a  flat-iron  or  heated  cylinder,  in 
order  to  give  them  a  high  degree  of  polish. 
The  applications  of  this  process  are  manifold, 
and  new  ones  are  constantly  suggesting  {hem- 
selves. 

1559.  Balard's    Waterproofing    for 
Clothing.     Balard  recommends  the  applica- 
tion of  acetate  of  alumina  for  the  purpose  of 
rendering  clothing  impervious  to  water.     The 
cloth  is  to  be  immersed  in  a  mixture  of  solu- 
tions of  acetate  of  lead  and  sulphate  of  alum- 
ina; by  mutual  decomposition  of  the  salts, 
acetate  of  alumina  is  produced  on  the  cloth, 
and  when  the  goods  are  dried,  basic  acetate 
of  alumina  adheres  to  the  fibre,  and  thus  pro- 
tects it  from  the  action  of  moisture.      The 
process  is  particularly  recommended  for  mili- 
tary goods. 

1560.  Berlin  Waterproof  Cloth.    A 
firm  in  Berlin  has  for  some  years  furnished  a 
completely  waterproof  cloth,  the  process  for 
making  which  has  been  kept  a  secret.      It  is 
now  stated,  however,  that  the  method  con- 
sists, in  all  probability,  in  saturating  the  cloth 
at  first  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  alum- 
ina and  of  copper,  and  then  immersing  it  in 
a  bath  of  water-glass  and  a  solution  of  resin 
soap.    The  object  of  the  copper  seems  to  be 
to  prevent  the  cloth  from  rotting  or  stiffening 
more  perfectly  than  can  be  done  by  the  alum- 
ina alone.     ( Sec  No.  1561.) 

1561.  To  Waterproof  Linen,  Canvas, 
&c.      Three  baths  arc  prepared  as  follows  : 
The  first,  by  dissolving   1  part  neutral  sul- 
phate of  alumina  (concentrated  alum    cake) 
in  10  parts  cold  water.     For  the  second,  boil 
1  part  light  resin,  1  part  soda  crystals  and  10 


HONEY. 


161 


parts  water,  till  the  soda  is  dissolved ;  add 
part  common  salt,  to  separate  the  water  and 
collect  the  soap ;  dissolve  this  soap  with  an 
equal  amount  of  good  palm-oil  soap  in  30 
parts  water.  This  soap  bath  must  be  used 
hot.  The  third  bath  consists  of  water  only. 
Soak  the  fabric  thoroughly  in  the  first,  or 
alum  bath  ;  next  pass  it  through  the  soap 
bath ;  and  lastly,  rinse  in  the  water.  (See  No. 
1560.) 

1562.  Metallic    Soap.      Metallic  soap 
in  linseed  oil  is  highly  recommended  for  coat- 
ing canvas  for  wagon  covers,  tents,  <fec.,  as 
being  not  only  impermeable  to  moisture,  but 
remaining  pliable  for  a  long  time  without 
breaking.  It  can  be  made  with  little  expense, 
as  follows :  Soft  soap  is  to  be  dissolved  in  hot 
water,  and  a  solution  of  copperas  (sulphate 
of  iron)  added.      The  sulphuric   acid  com- 
bines with  the  potash  of  the  soap,  and  the 
oxide  of  iron  is  precipitated  with  the  fatty 
acid  as  insoluble  iron  soap.    This  is  washed 
and    dried,  and    mixed    with      linseed    oil. 
The  addition  of  dissolved  India  rubber  to  the 
oil  greatly  improves  the  paint. 

1563.  To  Bender  Canvas   Fire  and 
Waterproof.      Tents,  awnings,  canvas,  <fcc., 
may  be  made  fireproof  as  well  as  waterproof, 
by  immersion  in  soluble  glass  diluted  with 
boiling  water  to  25°  Baume".      Before  thor- 
oughly dry,  immerse  in  a  solution  of  sulphate 
of  alumina  (alum  cake)  and  sulphate  of  cop* 
per  (blue  vitriol),  Ipart  of  each  to  10  parts  of 
water ;  then  dry  the  fabric  slowly  in  the  air. 

1564.  Fireproofing  Fabrics.    A  solu- 
tion of  3  parts  borax  and  2£  parts  sulphate  of 
magnesia  in  20  parts  water  is  recommended. 
Or  a  mixture  of  sulphate  of  ammonia  and 
sulphate  of  lime.     Soluble  glass  is  applicable 
to  rendering  wood  and  theatrical  decorations 
less  inflammable. 


HOH6V.  The  sweet  substance  ex- 
tracted by  the  bee  from  the  juices  of 
the  nectaries  of  flowers,  and  deposited  in  the 
cells  of  wax  forming  the  honey-comb.  Pure 
honey  consists  of  a  syrup  of  uncrystallizable 
sugar  and  crystalline  saccharine  grains,  re- 
sembling grape  sugar.  Virgin  honey  is  that 
which  flows  spontaneously  from  the  comb; 
ordinary  honey,  that  obtained  by  heat  and 
pressure. 

1566.  To    Purify    Honey.      Take   of 
honey,  8  pounds ;  water,  16  pounds ;  heat  in 
a  tin  vessel  to  212°  Fahr.  (not  to  boiling)  for 
1  hour ;  then  set  aside  over  night.     Mix  with 
fresh  coarsely  powdered    charcoal,  2  ounces 
Troy,  and  strain  through  flannel,  then  evapo- 
rate in  a  steam  bath,  at  about  175°  Fahr.,  to 
the  proper  consistence. 

Hoffmann  dilutes  the  honey  with  water, 
adds  solution  of  tannin  as  long  as  precipitation 
takes  place,  heats  to  212°,  strains  and  evapo- 
rates as  before. 

Mohr  and  Eebling  have  an  unfavorable 
opinion  of  charcoal,  and  recommend  tannin  or 
powdered  galls. 

Strauss,  of  St.  Petersburg,  likewise  removes 
an  excess  of  tannin  by  means  of  gelatin. 

1567.  Rebling's  Method  of  Purify- 
ing Honey.     One  half  ounce  of  honey  and 
i  ounce  water  are  mixed  with  -J-  grain  pow- 


dered galls,  heated  to  boiling,  and  then  mixed 
with  sufficient  lime-water  to  neutralize  the 
acid.  For  the  best  honey  it  takes  2  drachms. 
This  is  merely  a  preliminary  test  to  determine 
the  necessary  quantity  of  lime-water.  A  floc- 
culent  precipitate  takes  place,  which  readily 
separates,  leaving  the  honey  perfectly  clear 
and  of  a  very  pale  yellow  color,  like  that  of 
an  old  Bhine  wine ;  the  strained  liquor  must 
be  perfectly  neutral.  From  the  quantity  of 
lime-water  necessary,  the  quantity  of  the 
whole  lot  of  honey  is  calculated,  and  is  then 
treated  as  follows :  1  pound  avoirdupois  each 
of  honey  and  water  are  heated,  4  grains  pow- 
dered galls  are  added ;  the  whole  well  stirred, 
heated  to  boiling,  and  the  whole  quantity  of 
lime-water  added  at  once.  The  fire  is  imme- 
diately slackened  and  after  a  few  minutes  the 
honey,  when  sufficiently  clear,  is  strained ;  if 
still  acid,  reheating  and  an  addition  of  more 
lime-water  will  be  necessary.  It  is  to  be 
evaporated  as  above. 

1568.  Vogel's  Method  of  Purifying 
Honey.    Vogel's  method  is  to  beat  5  pounds 
honey  with  the  white  of  1  egg  till  it  froths, 
and  then  add  water  to  make  it  of  the  consist- 
ence of  syrup;    it  is  next  boiled  until  the 
white  of  egg  can  be  skimmed  off.    Pour  it 
into  an  upright  vessel  into  which  a  faucet  has 
been  inserted  near  the  bottom,  and  let  it  set- 
tle for  some  weeks — when  the  pure  honey 
may  be  drawn  off  through  the  faucet. 

1569.  To   Clarify  Honey.    Melt   the 
honey  in  a  water-bath,  remove  the  scum,  and 
pour  off  the  clear.     Less  agreeable  than  raw 
honey,  but  not  so  apt  to  ferment  and  gripe. 

1570.  Siller's  Method  of  Clarifying 
Honey.     Any  quantity  of  honey  is  dissolved 
in  an  equal  part,  by  weight,  of  water.    The 
liquid  is  allowed  to  boil  up  4  or  6  times  with- 
out skimming ;  it  is  then  removed  from  the 
fire,  and  after  being  cooled,  brought  on  several 
strong  linen  strainers,  stretched  horizontally, 
and  covered  with  a  layer  of  clean  and  well- 
washed  sand  an  inch  in  depth.    When  the 
solution  has  passed  through  the  strainers,  it 
is  found  to  be  of  the  color  of  clear  white  wine; 
the  sand  being  allowed  to  remain  on  the 
strainers,  is  rinsed  with  cold  water,  and  the 
whole  of  the  liquor  is  finally  evaporated  to  the 
thickness  of  syrup. 

1571.  To  Clarify    Honey.      Dissolve 
the  honey  in  water,  add  1£  pounds  animal 
charcoal  to  every  28  pounds  of  honey,  gently 
simmer  for  15  minutes,  add  a  little  chalk  to 
saturate  excess  of  acid,  if  required ;  strain  or 
clarify,    and    evaporate.       Observe. — Honey 
acquires  a  darker  color  if  heated  in  copper  or 
iron   vessels;    the    above    processes    should 
therefore  be  conducted  in  earthen  or  well- 
tinned  copper  pans. 

1572.  Shute's  Artificial  Honey.     Soft 
water,  6  pounds ;  pure  best  honey,  3  pounds ; 
white  moist  sugar,  20  pounds ;  cream  of  tar- 
tar, 80  grains;    essence   of  roses,  24  drops. 
Mix  the  above  in  a  brass  kettle,  boil  over  a 

harcoal  fire  5  minutes,  take  it  off,  add  the 
whites  of  2  eggs  well  beaten ;  when  almost 
cold,  add  2  pounds  more  honey.  A  decoction 
of  slippery  elm  will  improve  the  honey  if  it 
be  added  while  cooling,  but  it  will  ferment  in 
warm  weather  and  rise  to  the  surface. 

1573.  Cuba  Honey.    Good  brown  sugar, 
11  pounds;  water,  1  quart;  old  bee  honey  in 


162 


BEES'     WAX. 


the  comb,  2  pounds ;  cream  of  tartar,  50 
grains ;  gum-arabic,  1  ounce ;  oil  of  pepper- 
mint, 5  drops;  oil  of  rose.  2  drops.  Mix  and 
boil  2  or  3  minutes  and  remove  from  the  fire. 
Have  ready,  strained,  1  quart  water  in  which 
a  table-spoonful  of  pulverized  slippery  elm  bark 
has  stood  sufficiently  long  to  make  it  ropy  and 
thick  like  honey.  Mix  this  into  the  kettle 
with  egg  well  beat  up.  Skim  well  in  a  few 
minutes,  and  when  a  little  cool  add  2  pounds 
nice  strained  bees'  honey,  and  then  strain  the 
whole,  and  you  will  have  not  only  an  article 
which  looks  and  tastes  like  honey,  but  which 
possesses  all  its  medical  properties.  (The 
slippery  elm  will  ferment  in  warm  weather 
and  rise  to  the  surface.) 

1574.  Artificial  Honey.  Take  10 
pounds  Havana  sugar,  4  pounds  water,  40 
grains  cream  of  tartar,  10  drops  essence  of 
peppermint,  and  3  pounds  honey;  first  dissolve 
the  sugar  in  the  water  over  a  slow  fire,  and 
take  off  the  scum.  Then  dissolve  the  cream 
of  tartar  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  add,  with 
some  stirring;  then  add  the  honey,  heated  to 
a  boiling  point ;  then  add  the  essence  of  pep- 
permint; stir  for  a  few  moments,  and  let  it- 
stand  until  cold,  when  it  will  be  ready  for 
use. 

1575.  Excellent  Honey.  Take  5  pounds 
good  common  sugar,  2  pounds  water,  gradu- 
ally bring  to  a  boil,  skimming  well;  when 
cool,  add  1  pound  bees'  honey  and  4  drops  of 
peppermint.     If  you  desire  a  better  article 
use  white  sugar  and  i  pound  less  water  and  i 
pound  more  honey. 

1576.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Honey. 
Honey  is  frequently  adulterated  with  molasses, 
potato-sugar  syrup,  starch,  wheat  flower,  and 
water.    The  molasses  may  be  detected  by 
the  color  and  odor ;  the  potato-sugar  syrup, 
by  boiling  a  sample  of  the  honey  for  a  short 
time  in  water  containing  2  or  3  per  cent,  of 
caustic  potassa ;  if  the  liquid  remains  color- 
less it  is  pure ;  but  if  it  turns  brown,  more  or 
less,  it  is  adulterated  according  to  the  quan- 
tity of  syrup  present.  The  starch,  by  the  honey 
not  forming  a  nearly  clear  solution  with  cold 
water,  and  striking  a  blue  color  with  iodine. 
When  it  contains  wheat  flour  and  is  heated, 
it  at  first  liquefies,  but  on  cooling  it  becomes 
solid  and  tough.    "Water  is  added  to  honey  to 
increase  its  bulk.     Its  presence  may  be  sus- 
pected from  the  greater  thinness  of  the  liquid. 


Bees'  "Wax.  .  The  substance  which 
forms  the  cells  of  bees;  obtained  by 
melting  the  comb  in  water  after  the  honey 
has  been  removed,  straining  the  liquid  mass, 
remelting  the  defecated  portion,  and  casting 
into  cakes.  Bees'  wax,  when  pure,  has  neither 
taste  nor  smell ;  it  melts  at  about  157°  Fahr., 
and  is  of  a  specific  gravity  of  .966.  It  burns 
without  smoke  or  disagreeable  odor.  It  is  in- 
soluble in  water,  but  soluble  in  all  proportions 
in  the  fixed  and  volatile  oils,  bisulphide  of  car- 
bon, and  benzine.  Its  complete  solution  in 
these  substances  demonstrates  its  freedom 
from  fecula,  sulphur,  sawdust,  or  bone  dust, 
which  have  been  found  in  the  wax  of  com- 
merce, sometimes  amounting  to  60  per  cent, 
of  the  whole  weight.  The  abundance  and  low 


price  of  paraffine  have  made  this  substance 
one  of  the  principal  articles  used  in  the  falsifi- 
cation of  wax,  and  perhaps  of  all  others  it  is 
the  least  objectionable,  being  without  marked 
physiological  effect  upon  the  system. 

1578.  To  Bleach  Wax.  Pure  white 
wax  is  obtained  from  the  ordinary  bees'  wax 
by  exposure  to  the  influence  of  the  sun  and 
weather.  The  wax  is  sliced  into  thin  flakes, 
and  laid  on  sacking  or  coarse  cloth,  stretched 
on  frames,  resting  on  posts  to  raise  them  from 
the  ground.  The  wax  is  turned  over  fre- 
quently, and  occasionally  sprinkled  with  soft 
water,  if  there  be  not  dew  and  rain  sufficient 
to  moisten  it.  The  wax  should  be  bleached 
in  about  4  weeks.  If,  on  breaking  the  flakes, 
the  wax  still  appears  yellow  inside,  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  melt  it  again,  and  flake  and  expose 
it  a  second  time,  or  even  oftener,  before  it  be- 
comes thoroughly  bleached.  The  time  re- 
quired being  mainly  dependent  on  the  state  of 
the  weather.  There  is  a  preliminary  process, 
by  which,  it  is  claimed,  much  time  is  saved  in 
the  subsequent  bleaching;  this  consists  in 
passing  melted  wax  and  steam  through  long 
pipes,  so  as  to  expose  the  wax  as  much  as 
possible  to  the  action  of  the  steam;  thence 
into  a  pan  heated  by  a  steam  bath,  where  it 
is  stirred  thoroughly  with  water  and  then  al- 
lowed to  settle.  The  whole  operation  is  re- 
peated a  second  and  third  time,  and  the  wax 
as  then  in  a  condition  to  be  more  readily 
bleached. 

1570.  To  Bleach  Wax.  Wax  cannot 
be  bleached  with  chemicals;  if  any  other 
agent  but  sunshine  is  employed,  part  of  its 
properties  will  be  destroyed,  and  it  is  genuine 
wax  no  longer.  Chlorine  will  whiten,  but  at 
the  same  time  greatly  injure  it.  The  chlorine 
is  retained,  and  forms,  on  combustion,  muriatic 
acid. 

1580.  French  Method  of  Bleaching 
Bees'  Wax.     The  wax  is  melted  in  copper 
vessels,  and,   after  complete  liquefaction,  is 
agitated  with  8  ounces  ol  pulverized  cream  of 
tartar  for    each    100    pounds.      After  some 
minutes'  agitation  it  is  allowed  to  deposit  its 
impurities,  and  is  drawn  into  a  wooden  vessel 
and  allowed  to  deposit  a  further  amount  of 
foreign  substance— <lirt,  sand,  bees,  etc. — and, 
while  still  liquid,  is  drawn  upon  a  little  roller 
partly  immersed  in  water,  to  which  a  regular 
rotation  is  given — thus  producing  thin  sheets 
or  ribbons  of  wax,  which  may  be  detached 
from  the  roller,  being  now  ready  for  the  pro- 
cess of  bleaching.      This  is  accomplished  by 
the  exposure  of  the  yellow  scales  and  ribbons, 
upon  cloths,  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  and 
the  dew,  for  several  days,  during  which  time 
the  wax  completely  loses  its  color.     It  is, 
however,  in  practice  impossible  to  bleach  the 
wax  at  a  single  operation,  as  the  effect  takes 
place  only  on  the  surface,  and,  as  the  ribbons 
have  a  certain  thickness,  it  is  necessary  to 
melt  them   anew,  and  having  repeated   the 
operation  of  granulating,  it  is  submitted  to  a 
second  exposure.     The  wax  thus  bleached  is 
melted,  and  cast  into  discs  of  1  to  2  ounces 
weight,  and  forms  the  cera  alba  of  the  Phar- 
macopoeia. 

1581.  Italian  Method  of    Bleaching 
Bees'  Wax.     The  yellow  wax  is  first  melted 
in  a  kettle,  and  then  is  dipped  out  into  a  long 
tin  vessel  that  will  hold  2  or  3  gallons,  and 


BEES'    WAX. 


163 


Which  has  a  row  of  small  holes,  about  the 
diameter  of  a  knitting-needle,  in  the  bottom. 
This  vessel  is  fixed  over  a  cylinder  of  wood  2 
feet  in  length  and  15  inches  in  diameter, 
•which  is  made  to  revolve  like  a  grindstone,  in 
one  end  of  a  trough  of  water  2^-  feet  in  width, 
10  to  15  feet  in  length,  and  1  foot  in  depth. 
'  As  the  melted  wax  falls  in  small  streams  on 
this  wet  revolving  cylinder,  it  flattens  out  in- 
to a  thin  ribbon  and  floats  off  toward  the 
other  end  of  the  trough  of  water.  It  is  then 
dipped  out  with  a  skimmer  (that  may  be 
made  of  osier  twigs),  spread  on  a  table  (with 
a  top  made  of  small  willow  rods,  covered  with 
a  clean  white  cloth),  and  then  exposed  in  this 
way  to  the  sun  until  bleached. 

1582.  To  Detect  Spermaceti  in  Wax. 
The  presence  of  spermaceti  in  what  is  sold  as 
virgin  wax,  is  shown  by  its  reduced  melting 
point,  its  bending  before  it  breaks,  and  by  its 
flavor  when  chewed. 

1583.  To   Detect  Japanese  Wax  in 
Bees'  Wax.     According  to  Hager,  this  is  de- 
termined by  their  different  behavior  in  a  con- 
centrated solution   of  borax,  at  the  boiling 
point.    Bees'  wax  is  totally  insoluble  in  such 
a  solution,  while  Japanese  wax  dissolves,  and 
on  cooling  forms  a  milky  white,  gelatinous 
mass.     From  a  mixture  of  the  two  the  latter 
is  dissolved  out,  carrying  with  it  a  portion  of 
the  former,  while  another  portion  rises  and 
congeals  on  the  surface. 

1584.  To   Refine  Bees'  Wax.    Crude 
wax,   especially  that  imported,   is  generally 
loaded  with  dirt,  bees,  and  other  foreign  mat- 
ter.   To  free  it  from  these  substances,  it  un- 
dergoes the  operation  of  refining.     This  is 
done  by  melting  the  wax  along  with  about  3 
per  cent,  of  water  in  a  bright  copper  boiler, 
preferably  heated  by  steam,   and  after  the 
whole  is  perfectly  liquid,  and  has  boiled  for  a 
few    minutes,    withdrawing    the    heat,    and 
sprinkling  over  its  surface  a  little  oil  of  vitriol, 
in  the  proportion  of  about  3  or  4  fluid  ounces 
to  every  100  pounds  of  wax.     This  operation 
should  be  conducted  with  great  care  and  cir- 
cumspection ;  as,  if  done  carelessly,  the  melted 
wax  will  froth  up,  and  boil  over  the  sides  of 
the  pan.    The  acid  should  also  be  well  scat- 
tered over  the  whole  surface.    The  melted  wax 
is  next  covered  over,  and  left  for  some  hours 
to  settle,  or  till  it  becomes  sufficiently  cool  to 
be  drawn  off  into  the  moulds.     It  is  then  very 
gently  skimmed  with  a  hot  ladle,  and  bailed 
or  decanted  into  basins,  where  it  is  left  to 
cool.    Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  disturb 
the  sediment.     "When  no  more  clear  wax  can 
be  drawn  off,  the  remainder  in  the  melting 
pan  is  allowed  to  cool,  and  the  cake  or  foot, 
as  it  is  called,  is  taken  out,  and  the  impurities 
(mostly  bees)  scraped  from  its  under  surface. 
The  remaining  portion  is  usually  reserved  for 
a  second  operation,  but,  if  required,  may  be  at 
once    melted,    and   strained   through  canvas 
into  a  mould.     The  great  art  in  the  above 
process  is  to  produce  a  wax  which  shall  at 
once   be  bright  or  semi- translucent  in  thin 
pieces,  and  good  colored.     The  former  is  best 
insured  by  allowing  the  melted  mass  to  settle 
well,  and  by  carefully  skimming  and  decant- 
ing the  clear  portion  without  disturbing  the 
sediment.     It  should  also  not  be  poured  into 
the  moulds  too  warm,  as,  in  that  case,  it  is 
apt  to  separate,  and  the  resulting  cakes  to  be 


streaky,  or  of  different  shades  of  color.  It 
should  also  be  allowed  to  cool  very  slowly. 
"When  cooled  rapidly,  especially  if  a  current  of 
air  fall  upon  its  surface,  it  is  apt  to  crack  and 
form  cakes  full  of  fissures.  Some  persons 
who  are  very  nice  about  their  wax,  have  the 
cakes  polished  with  a  stiff  brush  when  quite 
cold  and  hard.  It  is  necessary  to  have  the 
cans,  ladles,  and  skimmers  used  in  the  above 
process  kept  quite  hot,  as  without  this  precau- 
tion the  wax  cools,  and  accumulates  upon 
them  in  such  quantity  as  to  render  them  in- 
convenient, and  often  quite  useless,  without 
being  constantly  scraped  out. 

1585.  To  Refine  Wax.   Another  method 
of  refining  crude  wax,  and  which  produces  a 
very  bright  article,  is  to  melt  it  with  about  1 

Eer  cent,  of  concentrated  nitric  acid,  in  a 
irge  earthen  or  stoneware  vessel,  heated  by 
steam  or  a  salt-water  bath,  and  to  continue 
the  boiling  till  nitrous  fumes  cease  to  be 
evolved,  after  which  the  whole  is  allowed  to 
settle,  and  treated  as  before. 

1586.  To  Color  Bees'  Wax.    Much  of 
the  imported  wax  has  a  pale  dirty    color, 
which  renders  it,  no  matter  how  pure,  objec- 
tionable to  the  retail  purchaser.    Such  wax 
undergoes  the  operation  of  coloring.    This  is 
done  as  follows : — A  small  quantity  of  the 
best  roll  annotto,  cut  into  slices  (i  pound, 
more  or  less,  to  1  cwt.  wax,  depending  on  the 
paleness  of  the  latter),  is  put  into  a  clean 
boiler  with  about  a  gallon  of   water,   and 
boiled  for  some  time,  or  till  it  is  perfectly  dis- 
solved, when  a  few  ladlefuls  of  the  melted 
wax  are  added,  and  the  boiling  continued  till 
the  wax  has  taken  up  all  the  color,  or  till  the 
water  is  mostly  evaporated.    The  portion  of 
wax  thus  treated  has  now  a  deep  orange  color, 
and  is  added  in  quantity  as  required  to  the 
remainder  of  the  melted  wax  in  the  larger 
boiler,  till  the  proper  shade  of  color  is  produced 
when  cold,  observing  to  well  mix  the  whole, 
and  to  cool  a  little  now  and  then  to  ascertain 
when  enough  has  been  added.     The  copper 
must  be  then  brought  to  a  boil,  and  treated 
with  vitriol,  &c.,  as  before.     (See  No.  1584.) 

1587.  To  Color  Bees'  Wax.    Another 
method  is  to  add  bright  palm  oil  to  the  wax 
till  it  gets  sufficient  color;  but  this  plan  is 
objectionable  from  the  quantity  required  for 
the  purpose  being  often  so  large  as  to  injure 
the  quality  of  the  wax;  besides  which  the 
color  produced  is  inferior,  and  less  transparent 
and  permanent. 

1588.  Factitious,  or  Imitation  Bees' 
Wax.     Yellow  resin,  16  pounds ;  hard  mut- 
ton suet  or  stearine,  8  pounds ;  palm  oil,  2^ 
pounds ;  melt  together. 

II.  As  last,  but  substitute  turmeric,  1  pound, 
for  the  palm  oil. 

III.  Best  annotto,  6  ounces,  or  sufficient  to 
color ;  water,  1  gallon ;  boil  till  dissolved,  add 
hard  mutton  suet  or  stearine,  35  pounds ;  yel- 
low resin,  70  pounds ;  boil  with  constant  agi- 
tation till  perfectly  mixed  and  of  a  proper 
color,  and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  thicken, 
pour  it  out  into  basins  to  cool.    "When  cold 
rub  each  cake  over  with  a  little  potato  starch. 
Used  instead  of  wax  in  ointments  by  farriers. 

1589.  Braconot's  Method  of  Making 
Artificial   Wax.      Any  animal    grease  or 
tallow  is  liquefied  by  oil  of  turpentine,  and 
poured  into  small  round  boxes  lined  with  felt 


CHEESE. 


in  the  inside,  with  a  number  of  small  holes 
bored  in  the  sides  and  the  bottom.  From 
these  little  boxes  the  liquid  is  pressed  out 
gradually,  but  sufficiently  to  get  rid  of  the 
turpentine  oil  and  all  the  fluidity.  The  firm 
mass  remaining  must  be  washed  a  long  time 
in  water,  to  take  away  the  smell  of  the  oil  of 
turpentine,  and  then  kept  fluid  for  several 
hours  with  animal  charcoal  freshly  prepared 
and  afterwards  filtered  whilst  boiling.  "W"hen 
cooled,  it  is  a  substance  beautifully  white, 
half  transparent,  dry,  brittle,  and  free  from 
taste  or  smell ;  and  will  mix  well  with  chlo- 
rine or  muriatic  acid,  or  with  £  of  wax  to  give 
it  the  necessary  suppleness.  In  this  state 
the  mass  can  be  made  into  candles  not  to  be 
distinguished  from  wax  lights.  The  turpen- 
tine is  separated  from  the  other  oil,  and 
evaporated  by  means  of  distillation;  and  this 
oil,  when  purified  and  whitened  with  animal 
charcoal,  is  of  great  service  in  the  preparation 
of  a  soap  extremely  well  adapted  for  the  trade 
and  for  household  purposes.  This  animal  oil, 
when  saponified  with  potash,  and  then  by 
means  of  the  sulphuric  acidulated  soda  often 
contained  in  the  mother  lye,  can  be  changed 
into  a  hard  soda  soap.  There  is  also  a  sul- 
phate of  potash,  much  in  demand  in  the  alum 
works,  to  be  obtained  from  it. 

1590.  Modeling  Wax.     This  is  made 
of  white  wax,  which  is  melted  and  mixed 
with  lard  to  make  it  malleable.    In  working 
it,  the  tools  and  the  board  or  stone  are  moist- 
ened with  water,  to  prevent  its  adhering ;  it 
may  be  colored  to  any  desirable  tint  with  dry 
color. 

1 591 .  Wax  for  Polishing  Floors.    To 
prepare  this,  12i  pounds  yellow  wax,  rasped, 
are  stirred  into  a  hot  solution  of  6  pounds  good 
pearl-ash,  in  rain  water.    Keeping  the  mixture 
well  stirred  while  boiling,  it  is  first  quiet,  but 
soon  commences  to  froth ;  and  when  the  effer- 
vescence ceases,  heat  is  stopped,  and  there 
are  added  to  the  mixture,  while  still  stirring, 
6  pounds  dry  yellow  ochre.    It  may  then  be 
poured  into  tin  cans  or  boxes,  and  hardens  on 
cooling.    When  wanted  for  use,  a  poxind  of  it 
is  diffused  in  5  pints  boiling  hot  water,  and 
the  mixture  well  stirred,  applied  while  still 
hot  to  the 'floor  by  means  of  a  paint-brush. 
It  dries  in  a  few  hours,  after  which  the  floor 
is   to  be   polished  with  a  large  floor-brush 
and  afterwards  wiped  with  a  coarse  woolen 
cloth.    A  coat  of  this  paint  will   last   six 
months. 


.  The  materials  employed  in 
making  cheese  are  milk  and  rennet.  The 
milk  may  be  of  any  kind,  from  the  poorest 
skimmed  milk  to  that  rich  in  cream,  according 
to  the  quality  of  the  cheese  required.  The 
poorest  kind  of  cheese  is  made  from  the 
former,  and  the  finer  from  the  latter,  to  which 
additional  cream  is  frequently  added.  The 
materials  being  ready,  the  greater  portion  of 
the  milk  is  put  into  a  large  tub,  and  the  re- : 
mainder  sufficiently  heated  to  raise  the  whole  j 
quantity  to  the  temperature  of  new  milk. 
The  whole  is  then  whisked  together,  the  rennet 
(sec  No.  1595)  added,  and  the  tub  covered 
over.  It  is  now  allowed  to  stand  until  com- 


pletely turned,  when  the  curd  is  struck  down 
several  times  with  the  skimming-dish,  after 
which  it  is  allowed  to  subside.  The  vat 
covered  with  cheese-cloth  is  next  placed  on  a 
horse  or  ladder  over  the  tub,  and  filled  with 
curd  by  means  of  the  skimmer ;  the  curd  is 
pressed  down  with  the  hands,  and  more  added 
as  it  sinks.  This  process  is  repeated  until 
the  curd  rises  to  about  2  inches  above  the 
edge.  The  cheese  thus  partially  separated 
from  the  whey  is  now  placed  in  a  clean  tub, 
and  a  proper  quantity  of  salt  added,  or  the 
salt  is  added  to  it  without  removing  it  from 
the  vat,  after  which  a  board  is  placed  over 
and  under  it,  and  pressure  applied  for  2  or  3 
hours.  The  cheese  is  next  turned  out  and 
surrounded  by  a  fresh  cheese-cloth,  and  pres- 
sure again  applied  for  8  or  10  hours,  when  it 
is  commonly  removed  from  the  press,  salted 
all  over,  and  pressed  again  for  15  to  20  hours. 
The  quality  of  the  cheese  especially  depends 
on  this  part  of  the  process,  as,  if  any  of  the 
whey  be  left  in  the  cheese,  it  will  not  keep, 
but  will  rapidly  become  bad  flavored.  Before 
placing  it  in  the  press  the  last  time,  the 
edges  should  be  pared  smooth  and  sightly. 
It  now  only  remains  to  wash  the  outside  of 
the  cheese  in  warm  whey  or  water,  wipe  it 
dry,  color  it  with  annotto,  and  place  it  in  a 
cool  place  to  mature  or  ripen. 

1 593.  To  Collect  the  Curd  in  Making 
Cheese.    There  are  several  methods  adopted 
of  collecting  the  curd,  and  as  the  flavor  of 
the  cheese  varies  accordingly,  it  is  as  well  to 
notice  them.     One  way  is  to  break  the  curd 
early,  and  to  remove  the  whey  as  soon  as 
possible;   another  plan  is  to  gather  it  with 
the  hands  very  gently  towards  the  sides  of 
the  tub,  letting  the  whey  run  off  through  the 
fingers  until  it  becomes  cleared,  and  .ladling 
it  off  as  it  collects.    A  third  method  i's  to  re- 
move it  as  quickly  as  possible  with  the  curd- 
skimmer.     Of  these  the  second  plan  is  said  to 
be  the  best,  as  it  preserves  the  oily  particles, 
many  of  which  are  lost  by  the  other  methods. 

1594.  To  Make  Cream  Cheese.     This 
is  made  either  of  the  "  strippings"  (the  last 
of  the  milk  drawn  from  the  cow  at  each  milk- 
ing), or  of  a  mixture  of  milk  and  cream.    It 
is  usually  made  up  into  small  pieces,  and  a 
gentle  pressure,  as  that  of  a  2  or  4  pound 
weight,  applied  to  press  out  the  whey.     After 
twelve  hours,  it  is  placed  upon  a  board  or 
wooden  trencher,  and  turned  every  day,  until 
dry.     In  about  three  weeks  it  will  be  ripe. 
Nothing  but  raw  cream,  turned  with  a  little 
rennet  (see  No.  1595)  is  employed,  when  a 
very  rich  cheese  is  wanted.     A  little  salt  is 
generally  added,  and  frequently  a  little  pow- 
dered lump  sugar.     The  vats  employed  for 
cream  cheeses  are  usually  square,  and  of  small 
size. 

1595.  Rennet.     The    stomach  of  the 
calf,  freed  from  the   outer  skin,  fat,  and  use- 
less membrane,  is  washed,  treated  with  either 
brine  or  dry  salt  for,  a  few  hours,  and  then 
stretched  out  upon  a  stick  and  hung  up  to 
dry.      It  is  employed  for  curdling  milk.    A 
piece  of  the  requisite  size  is  cut  off  and  soaked 
for  some  hours  in  whey  or  water,  after  which 
the  whole    is  added  to    the    milk    slightly 
warmed,  or,   if  necessary,  heated    to   about 
120°  Fahr.     In  a  short  time  the  milk    sepa- 
rates into  a  white  curd,  and  a  yellowish  fluid 


PRESERVATIVES. 


165 


called  whey.      2  square  inches  from  a  good 
rennet  are  sufficient  for  a  cheese  of  60  pounds. 

1596.  Essence  of  Rennet.     Knead  to- 

§  ether  12  ounces  fresh  rennet  cut  small,  and 
ounces  common  salt ;  leave  the  mixture  for 
5  or  6  weeks  in  a  cool  place ;  then  add  18 
ounces  water,  and  2  ounces  good  rum  or 
proof  spirit.  Digest  for  24  hours  ;  filter,  and 
color  with  a  little  burnt  sugar.  2  or  3  tea- 
spoonfuls  will  curdle  a  quart  of  milk. 

1597.  Condensed  Milk.     There  is  no 
difficulty  in  manufacturing  condensed  milk, 
and  the  process  consists  only  in  careful  evap- 
oration, addition  of  sugar,  and  sealing  up  of 
the  article.      The  evaporation  should  be  con- 
ducted in  a  vacuum,  to  prevent  the  milk  from 
becoming  brown  and  acquiring  a  bitter  taste. 
It  is  best  to  stir  it  constantly,  or  the  skin  of 
coagulated  casein  at  the  top  will    prevent 
quick  evaporation.     When  sufficiently  thick 
or  condensed  it  is  mixed  with  J  its  weight  of 
granulated  sugar,  stirred  well,  filled  in  tins, 
and  soldered  up. 


Preservatives.     These  consist 
of  such  substances  or  methods  as  are 
employed  for  preventing  decay  in  fruits,  meat, 
and  other  perishable  matter;   together  with 
valuable  antiseptics. 

1599.  To  Dry  Fresh  Meat.      Cut  the 
flesh  into  slices  from  2  to  6  ounces  in  weight, 
immerse  a  small  portion  at  a  time  in  boiling 
water  for  5  or  6  minutes,  using  only  just 
water  enough  to  cover  the  meat,  and  adding 
fresh  water  only  to  keep  the  liquor  up  to  its 
original  quantity.      Lay  the  meat  to  dry  on 
open  trellis-work  in  a  drying  stove,  keeping 
the   temperature   at  about    122°   Pahr.      In 
about  two  days  the  meat  will  be  completely 
dry,  having  lost  about  f-  its  weight.  Add  a  lit- 
tle salt  and  spice,  especially  coriander,  to  the 
liquor  or  soup  in  which  the  meat  was  im- 
mersed, and  then  evaporate  it  to  a  gelatinous 
consistence.     "When  the  flesh  is  perfectly  dry, 
dip  it,  piece  by  piece,  in  the  gelatinous  mat- 
ter liquefied  by  a  gentle  heat,  and  replace  it 
in  the  stove  to  dry,  repeating  this  varnishing 
and  drying  2  or  3  times,  so-  as  to  get  the  coat- 
ing uniformly  thick.      Meat  thus   dried  will 
keep  good  for  a  year. 

1600.  To  Smoke  Meat.     This  process 
consists  in  exposing  meat,  previously  salted, 
to   wood-smoke,   in    an    apartment  (usually 
called  a  smoke-house),  into  which  the  smoke 
is  admitted  by  flues  at  the  bottom  of  the  side 
walls.      The  meat  absorbs  the  pyroligneous 
acid  of  the  smoke,  and  gets  dried  at  the  same 
time.     It  may  be  protected  from  soot  by  rub- 
bing over  with  bran,  or  wrapping  in  a  cloth. 
The  smoke  from  oak  or  beech  wood  is  prefera- 
ble ;  and  the  smoking  is  better  slow  and  gen- 
tle than  rapid  and  powerful ;  the  latter  plan 
being    too  often  adopted    from    motives  of 
economy.      Hams  thus  prepared,  as  is  often 
the  case,  are  ham  merely  on  the  surface,  and 
corned  pork  inside.      This  process  is  some- 
times    imitated    by    immersing    the    meat 
for  a  few  hours  in  diluted  pyrolygneous  acid, 
but  it  is  apt  to  harden  or  toughen  the  meat. 

1601.  Smoking   Fluid.     One    drop  of 
creosote  in  a  pint  of  water  imparts  a  smoky 


flavor  to  fish  or  meat  dipped  into  it  for  a  few 
minutes. 

1602.  To  Dry-Salt  and  Pickle  Meat. 

This  is  best  performed  by  well  rubbing  the 
meat  with  a  mixture  of  salt,  2  pounds ;  salt- 
petre, 2  ounces;  and  moist  sugar  1^  ounces, 
till  every  crevice  is  thoroughly  penetrated, 
after  which  it  should  be  set  aside  till  the  next 
day,  when  it  should  be  covered  with  fresh  salt 
in  such  parts  as  require  it.  It  may  then  be 
advantageously  placed  in  any  proper  vessel, 
and  subjected  to  pressure,  adding  a  little  fresh 
salt  as  necessary,  and  turning  it  daily  till  suf- 
ficiently cured.  When  the  brine  as  it  forms 
is  allowed  to  drain  from  the  meat,  the  process 
is  called  dry-salting;  but  when,  on  the  con- 
trary, it  is  allowed  to  remain  on  it,  the  arti- 
cle is  said  to  be  wet-salted.  On  the  small 
scale,  the  latter  is  most  conveniently  performed 
by  rubbing  the  meat  with  salt,  &c.,  as  above, 
and  after  it  has  lain  a  few  hours,  putting  it 
into  a  pickle  formed  by  dissolving  4  pounds 
salt,  £  or  1  pound  sugar,  and  2  ounces  salt- 
petre in  2  gallons  water.  This  pickling  liquor 
gets  weaker  by  use,  and  should  therefore  be 
occasionally  boiled  down  a  little  and  skimmed, 
at  the  same  time  adding  some  more  of  the 
dry  ingredients. 

1603.  Pickle  to    Give  Meat   a  Bed 
Color.     Mix    brown   sugar,  bay   salt,  com- 
mon salt,  each 2 pounds;  saltpetre,  8  ounces; 
water,  2  gallons;  this   pickle  gives  meat  a 
fine  red  color,  while  the  sugar  renders  it  mild 
and  of  excellent  flavor.      Large    quantities 
are  to  be  managed  by  the  above  proportions. 

1604.  To   Salt  Meat   by  Injection. 
The  sooner  meat  is  salted  after  being  killed, 
the  better,  as  it  then  possesses  considerable 
absorbent  power,  which  it  gradually  loses  by 
age.     On  this  property  is  based  the  process  of 
M.  Gannel  for  the  preservation   of  animals 
intended  for  food  in  a  fresh  state.  This  opera- 
tion consists  in  injecting  a  solution  of  chlor- 
ide of  aluminum  at  10C  Baume",  into  the  car- 
otid, by  means  of  a  syphon,  as  soon  as  the 
blood  ceases  to  flow  from  the  slaughtered  ani- 
mal, both   extremities   of  the   jugular  vein 
being  previously  tied.    9  to  12  quarts  of  the 
solution  are  sufficient  for  an  ox.      When  the 
animal  has  been  well  bled,  and  the  injection 
skillfully  performed,  it  is  scarcely  perceptible 
that  the  animal  has  undergone  any  prepara- 
tion.     The  injected  animal  is  cut  up  in  the 
usual  way ;  and  when  intended  to  be  eaten 
within  2  or  3  weeks,  merely  requires  to  be 
hung  up  in  a  dry  situation  free  from  flies; 
but  if  it  is  to  be  kept  for  a  longer  period,  it  is 
directed  to  be  washed  with  a  mixed  solution 
of  common  salt  and  chloride  of  aluminum  at 
10°  Baume,  and  then  simply  dried  and  packed 
in  clean  air-tight  barrels,  and  kept  in  a  cool, 
dry  place.    If  the  air  cannot  be  perfectly  ex- 
cluded, it  should  be  packed  in  dry  salt,  not 
for  the  purpose  of  preserving  it,  but  to  pre- 
vent the  meat  from  becoming  musty  from  ex- 
posure and  the  action  of  moisture.   Meat  pre- 
served by  this  process  may  be  kept  for  several 
years,   and   merely  requires   soaking   for  24 
hours  in  water,  for  the  purpose  of  swelling  its 
pores,  to  give  it  the  appearance  and  taste  of  • 
fresh  meat,  fit  either  for  roasting  or  boiling. 

1605.  Pelouze's  Process  of  Preserv- 
ing Meat.     The  meat  is  to  be  cut  up  into 
pieces  of  convenient  size,  and    subjected  to 


166 


PRESERVATIVES. 


an  atmosphere  of  carbonic  oxide  under  pres- 
sure. After  this  a  current  of  dry  air  is  passed 
over  the  meat,  so  as  to  carry  off  all  the  mois- 
ture, aud  this  being  accomplished,  a  solution 
either  of  salt  or  saltpetre,  or  much  diluted 
carbolic  acid,  is  to  be  brought  into  contact 
•with  it,  and  the  mass  then  sealed  up  in  a 
tight  vessel. 

1606.  To  Cure  Hams.     Cover  the  bot- 
tom of  the  cask  with  coarse  salt,  lay  on  the 
hams  with  the  smooth  or  skin  side  down, 
sprinkle  over  fine  salt,  then  another  layer  of 
hams,  and  so  continue  until  the  cask  is  full. 
This  ought  to  be  of  the  larger  kind.     A  cask 
holding  64  gallons  is  small  enough,  and  it 
would  be  better  if  it  held  120  gallons.  Make  a 
brine  in  the  following  proportions :    6  gallons 
water,  9  pounds  salt,  4  pounds  brown  sugar, 
3  ounces  saltpetre,  1  ounce  saleratus.      Scald 
and  skim,  and  when  cold  pour  the  brine  into 
the  cask  until  the  hams  are  completely  cov- 
ered.   The  hams  should  remain  in  this  pickle 
at  least  three  months,  and  a  little  longer  time 
would  do  them  no  harm.     A  handful  each  of 
mace  aud  cloves  scattered  in  the  brine  will 
greatly  improve  the  flavor  of  the  meat. 

1607.  To  Cure  Beef  and  Pork.      To 
each  gallon  of  water   add  1£    pounds  salt, 
•J  pound  sugar,  £  ounce  saltpetre,  and  -J-  ounce 
potash.      Let  these  be  boiled  together  until 
all  the  dirt  from  the  sugar  rises  to  the  top  and 
is  skimmed  off.     Then  throw  it  into  a  tub  to 
cool,  and  when  cold,  pour  it  over  the  beef  or 
pork,  to  remain  the  usual  time,  say  4  or  5 
weeks.    The  meat  must  be  well  covered  with 
pickle,  and  should  not  be  put  down  for  at 
least  2  days  after  killing,  during  which  time 
it  should  be  slightly  sprinkled  with  powdered 
saltpetre,    which    removes    all    the    surface 
blood,    <fec.,  leaving  the  meat  fresh  and  clean. 
Some  omit  boiling  the  pickle,  and  find  it  to 
answer  well,  though  the  operation    of  boil- 
ing purifies  the  pickle  by  throwing  off  the 
dirt  always  to  be  found  in   salt  and  sugar. 
Ham  cured  in  this  manner  may  be  smoked  as 
usual,  and  will  be  found  excellent.      This  re- 
ceipt has  been  tried  with  complete  satisfac- 
tion. 

1608.  Brine  or  Pickle  for  Pork,  &c. 
Brown  sugar,  bay  salt,  common  salt,  of  each 
2  pounds;  saltpetre,  i  pound ;  water,  1  gallon. 
Boil  gently  and  remove  the  scum.      Another 
meat  pickle  is  made  with  12  pounds  salt, 
2  pounds  sugar  or  molasses,  k  pound  nitre,  and 
sufficient  water  to  dissolve  it.    To  cure  hams, 
mix  5  ounces  nitre  with  8  ounces  coarse  sugar ; 
rub  it  on  the  ham,  and  in  24  hours  rub  in  2 
pounds  salt,  and  in  two  weeks  2  pounds  more. 
The  above  is  for  a  ham  of  20  pounds ;    it 
should  lie  in  the  salt  a  month  or  5  weeks. 

1609.  Liebig's  Extract  of  Meat.   Cut 
the  lean  of  fresh-killed  meat  very  small,  put 
it  into  8  times  its  weight  of  cold  water,  and 
heat  it  gradually  to  the  boiling  point.    When 
it  has  boiled    for  a  few    minutes,  strain  it 
through  a  cloth,  and  evaporate  the  liquor 
gently  by  water-bath  to  a  soft  mass.  2  pounds 
meat   yield  1  ounce  extract.      Fat  must  be 
carefully  excluded,  or  it  will  not  keep. 

1610.  To  Preserve  Meat  with  Vine- 
gar.    This  may  be  done  either  by  washing 
the  meat,  drying  and  laying  in  strong  vinegar ; 
or  by  being  boiled  in  the  vinegar,  leaving  it  in 
the  vinegar  until  cold,  and 'then  set  aside  in  a 


ool  cellar,  where  it  will  keep  sound  for  severai 
months. 

1611.  To    Can  Meat.      Remove    the 
bones  from  fresh  meat,  parboil  the  flesh,  put 
it  into  a  clean  tin  can,  and  fill  up  with  rich 
seasoned  soup ;  solder  on  the  lid,  pierced  with 
a  very  small  hole.    Next  put  the  tin  into  a 
bath  of  brine  and  heat  until  the  steam  issues 
from  the  hole ;  then  solder  up  and  at  the  same 
time  remove  the  can  from  the  bath.     In  a 
short  time  the  pressure  of  the  air  will  induce 
a  slight  concavity  of  the  top  and  bottom  of 
the  can.    If  the  process  has  been  successfully 

Eerformed,  this  concavity  will  be  permanent ; 
ut  if,  at  any  future  time,  the  concavity  has 
ceased,  or  the  ends  become  slightly  convex, 
it  is  a  sure  sign  that  the  meat  has  become 
putrid.  The  system  of  canning  has  been  in 
later  years  applied  to  preserving  fresh  fruits 
and  vegetables,  and  is  done  on  substantially 
the  same  principles,  namely,  filling  the  can 
with  steam,  and  hermetically  sealing  before 
the  steam  condenses.  (See  No.  1634.) 

1612.  To  Keep  Meat  Fresh.     Place 
the  meat  on  a  wooden  support  (or  suspend  it) 
in  a  close  vessel,  on  the  bottom  of  which  some 
strong  acetic  acid  has  been  poured.     In  this 
way  it  may  be  kept  fresh  for  a  considerable 
time. 

1613.  Preservation  of  Hams.     Most 
grocers,  dealers  in  hams,  and  others,  who  are 
particular  in  their  meat,  usually  take  the  pre- 
caution to  case  each  one,  after  it  is  smoked,  in 
canvas,  for  the  purpose  of  defending  it  from 
the  attacks  of  a  little  insect,  the  dermestes 
lardarius,  which,  by  laying  its  eggs  in  it,  soon 
fills    it  with  its  larvee,   or   maggots.     This 
troublesome  and  expensive  process  may  be  al- 
together superseded  by  the  use  of  pyroligneous 
acid.    "With  a  painter's  brush,  dipped  in  the 
liquid,  one  man,  in  the  course  of  a  day",  may 
effectually   secure    two  hundred  hams  from 
all  danger.     Care  should  be  taken  to  insinuate 
the  liquid  into  all  the  cracks,  <fec.,  of  the  un- 
der surface.     This  method  is  especially  adapt- 
ed to  the  preservation  of  hams  in  hot  climates. 

1614.  To  Make  Carbolic  Acid  Paper 
for  Preserving  Meats.  Carbolic  acid  paper, 
which  is  now  much  used  for  packing  fresh 
meats,  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  them 
against  spoiling,  is  made  by  melting  5  parts 
stearine  at  ^,  gentle  heat,  and  then  stirring  in 
thoroughly  2  parts  carbolic  acid ;  after  which 
5  parts  melted  paraffine  are  to  be  added.     The 
whole  is  to  be  well  stirred  together  until  it 
cools;  after  which  it  is  melted  and  applied 
with  a  brush  to  the  paper,  in  quires,  in  the 
same  way  as  in  preparing  the  waxed  paper  so 
much  used  in  Europe  for  wrapping  various 
articles.     (See  Nos.  1936  and  1938.) 

1615.  To  Preserve  Fish  Fresh  with 
Sugar.     A  method  adopted  in  Portugal  for 
preserving  fish  consists  in  cleaning  and  sprink- 
ling sugar  over  the  interior,  keeping  the  fish 
in  a  horizontal  position,  so  that  the  sugar  may 
penetrate  as  much  as  possible.    It  is  said  that 
fish  prepared  in  this  way  can  be  kept  com- 
pletely fresh  for  a  long  time,  the  savor  being 
as  perfect  as  if  recently  caught.     Salmon  thus 
treated  before  salting  and  smoking  possess  a 
much  more  agreeable  taste ;  a  table- spoonful 
of  sugar  being  sufficient  for  a  five-pound  fish. 

1616.  Aseptin.      A    substance    called 
aseptiu  has    recently  been    introduced    into 


PRESERVATIVES. 


167 


trade  by  a  Swedish  dealer  as  a  preservative 
material  for  milk,  meat,  etc.  This  is  said  to 
be  simply  boracic  acid,  or  borax ;  the  double 
aseptin  consisting  of  two  parts  of  borax  to 
one  part  of  alum.  Putrefaction  is  said  to  be 
prevented  by  the  addition  of  this  preparation, 
but  mouldiness  in  animal  substances  is  not. 
Although  a  very  short  time  has  elapsed  since 
aseptin  has  been  brought  into  notice,  thousands 
of  pounds  are  now  sold  almost  daily  in  Scan- 
dinavia and  Germany. 

1617.  Sportsman's  Beef.     Take  a  fine 
round  of  beef,  4  ounces  saltpetre,  £  ounce  all- 
spice, rub  it  well  on  the  beef,  and  let  it  stand 
24  hours ;  then  rub  in  as  much  common  salt 
as  will  salt  it.     Lay  it  by  12  days,  turning  it 
every  day ;  then  put  it  into  a  pan,  such  as  large 
pies  are  baked  in,  with  3  or  4  pounds  beef- 
suet,  some  under,  some  over.     Cover  it  with 
a  thick  crust,  and  bake  it  for  6  hours.     It  will 
keep  for  2  months,  and  most  excellent  it  is. 

1618.  Preservation  of  Meat.     By  re- 
peatedly immersing  the  meat  in  hydrochloric 
acid,   subsequently  drying,  it  is  sufficiently 
cured  to  keep  for  a  considerable  time.    "When 
required  for  use,  the  acid  must  be  neutralized 
by  a  little  carbonate  of  soda,  by  which  it  will 
be  salted.     The  strength  of  the  hydrochloric 
acid  must  be  determined  by  experiment. 

1619.  To   Keep  Dead  Poultry,  &c., 
Fresh.     Dead  birds  may  be  preserved  in  a 
fresh  state  for  some  time  by  removing  the  in- 
testines, wiping  the  inside  out  quite  dry  with 
a  towel,  and  then  flouring  them.     A  piece  of 
blotting  paper,  on  which  one  or  two  drops  of 
creosote  have  been  placed,  is  now  to  be  put 
inside  them,  and  a  similarly  prepared  piece  of 
paper  tied  round  them.     They  should  then  be 
hung  up  in  a  cool  dry  place,  free  from  the  at- 
tacks of  flies  or  vermin,  and  will  be  found  to 
keep  much  longer  than  without  undergoing 
this  process.     (See  No.  1614.) 

1620.  To  Preserve  or  Cure  Butter. 
Melt  the  butter  in  well  glazed  earthen  pans, 
at  a  heat  not  exceeding  180°  Fahr.  in  a  water 
bath,  and  keep  it  heated,  skimming  it  from 
time  to  time,  until  the  butter  becomes  quite 
transparent,  then  pour  off  the  clear  into  an- 
other vessel,  and  cool  it  as  quickly  as  possible 
by  surrounding  it  with  cold  water  or  ice. 
The  above  is  the  method  of  preserving  butter 
employed  by  the  Tartars  who  supply  the  Con- 
stantinople market,  and  in  this  state  it  may 
be  preserved  perfectly  fresh  for  6  months,  if 
kept  in  a  close  vessel  and  a  cool  place.     This 
plan  received  the  approval  of  Thenard,  as  well 
as  Mr.  Eaton ;    the  latter  states  that  butter 
melted  by  the  Tartar  method,  and  then  salted 
by  ours,  will  keep  good  and  fine-tasted  for  2 
years.     Any  of  the  following  methods  of  salt- 
ing may  be  adopted. 

1621.  To  Preserve  Butter   by  Salt- 
ing.    Mix  well  together  1   ounce  each  salt- 
petre and  white  sugar,  and  2  ounces  best  salt, 
all  in  very  fine  powder,  then  add  1  ounce  of 
this   mixture  to  every  pound  of  butter,  and 
thoroughly  incorporate  them  together.     The 
butter   thus   prepared  is   then  to  be  tightly 
pressed  into  clean  glazed  earthenware  vessels, 
so  as  to  have  no  vacant  spaces.     This  butter 
does  not  taste  well  before  it  has  stood  for  2  or 
3  weeks,  after  which  it  acquires  a  rich  marrow 
flavor,  which  no  other  butter  ever  possesses. 
Any  good  well-made  fresh  butter,  free  from 


butter-milk,  will  succeed  by  this  method,  but 
the  application  of  it  to  butter  clarified  by  the 
Tartar  plan,  as  described  above,  produces  an 
article  that  will  keep  longer  good  than  butter 
cured  by  any  other  process  yet  discovered. 

1622.  To   Preserve  Butter  by  Salt- 
ing.    Take  fresh  butter,  16  pounds;  salt,  1 
pound.     Or  :  Fresh  butter,  18  pounds ;  salt,  1 
pound;   saltpetre,  1J  ounces;  honey  or  fine 
brown  sugar,  2  ounces.     Proceed  as  in  the 
last  receipt. 

1623.  To  Preserve  Butter  from  the 
Air.     The  best  method  to  preserve  butter 
from  the  air,  is  to  fill  the  pots  to  within  an 
inch  of  the  top,  and  to  lay  on  it  common 
coarse-grained  salt,  to  the  depth  of  £  or  £• 
inch,  and  then  to  cover  the  pot  up  with  any 
flat  article  that  may  be  convenient.     The  salt, 
by  long  keeping,  will  run  to  brine,  and  form  a 
layer  on  the  top  of  the  butter,  which  will 
effectually  keep  out  the  air,  and  may  at  any 
time  be  very  easily  removed  by  turning  the 
pot  on  one  side. 

1624.  To   Preserve   Butter    Sweet. 
To  every  20  pounds  of  butter  take  3  pounds 
salt,  1  pound  loaf  sugar,  J  pound  pulverized 
saltpetre ;    mix,   and  put  a  layer  of  butter 
about  8  inches  thick,  then  sprinkle  on  a  light 
covering  of  the  above  preparation  alternately, 
until  your  cask  is  full.     Pack  in  air-tight  casks. 
Butter  packed  in  this  way  will  keep  sweet  for 
2  or  3  years. 

1625.  To   Restore   Rancid    Butter. 
Kancid  butter  may  be  restored  by  melting  it 
in  a  water-bath  with  some  fresh-burnt  and 
coarsely  powdered  animal  charcoal  (which "has 
been  thoroughly  freed  from  dust  by  sifting)  and 
straining  it  through  clean  flannel.    A  better 
and  less  troublesoute  method  is  to  well  wash 
the  butter,  first  with  good  new  milk,  and  next 
with  cold  spring  water.     Butyric  acid,  on  the 
presence  of  which  rancidity  depends,  is  freely 
soluble  in  fresh  milk. 

1626.  To   Improve    Strong  Butter. 
This  operation  is  extremely  simple  and  prac- 
ticable ;  it  consists  in  beating  the  butter  in  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  water,  in  which  put  25 
to  30  drops  chloride  of  lime  to  2  pounds  of 
butter.    After  having  mixed  it  till  all  its  parts 
are  in  contact  with  the  water,  it  may  be  left 
in  it  for  1  or  2  hours,  afterwards  withdrawn, 
and  washed  in  fresh  water.     The  chloride  of 
lime,  having  nothing  injurious  in  it,  can  with 
safety  be  augmented ;  but  it  will  generally  be 
found  that  12  to  14  drops  to  a  pound  of  butter 
are  sufficient.     Butter,  the  taste  and  odor  of 
which  were  insupportable,  has  been  sweetened 
by  this  simple  means.    "We  have  tried  the 
above  receipt,  and  find  that  the  chloride  re- 
moves the  rancid  taste  of  the  butter,  making 
it  suitable  for  cooking,  but  scarcely  purified 
enough  for  table  use. 

1627.  To  Preserve  Milk.     The  follow- 
ing receipt  appears  in  Cosmos:    "To  every 
liter  (about    1   quart)   of  unskimmed  milk, 
previously  poured  into  a  well-annealed  glass 
bottle,  add  40  centigrammes  (about  6  grains) 
of  bicarbonate    of  soda.      Place  the  bottle 
(which  must  be  well  corked)  containing  the 
milk  for  about  4  hours  in  a  water-bath,  heated 
to  194°  Fahr.     On  being  taken  out,  the  bottle 
is  to  be  varnished  over  with  tar ;  and  in  that 
state  the  milk  contained  in  it  will  keep  sound 
and  sweet  for  several  weeks." 


168 


PRESERVA  TIVES. 


1628.  To  Keep  Milk  Sweet.     A  tea- 
spoonful  of  fine  salt  or  horse-radish  in  a  pan 
of  milk  will  keep  it  sweet  for  several  days. 
Milk  can  be  kept  a  year  or  more  as  sweet  as 
when  taken  from  the  cow  by  the  following 
method :  Procure  bottles,  which  must  be  per- 
fectly clean,  sweet,  and  dry;  draw  the  milk 
from  the  cow  into  the  bottles,  and  as  they  are 
filled,  immediately  cork  them  well,  and  fasten 
the  cork  with  pack-thread  or  wire.     Then 
spread  a  little  straw  in  the  bottom  of  a  boiler, 
on  which  place  the  bottles,  with  straw  be- 
tween them,  until  the  boiler  contains  a  suffi- 
cient quantity.     Fill  it  up  with  cold  water, 
and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil,  draw  the  fire 
and    let  the  whole  cool  gradually.      When 
quite  cold,  take  out  the  bottles  and  pack  them 
in  sawdust  in  hampers,  and  stow  them  away 
in  the  coolest  part  of  the  house. 

1629.  Preservation  of  Eggs.    When 
newly  laid,   eggs  are  almost  perfectly  full, 
but  the  shell  is  porous,  and  the  watery  por- 
tion of  its  contents  begins  to  evaporate  through 
its  pores  the  moment  it  is  exposed  to  the  air, 
so  that  the  eggs  become  lighter  every  day. 
To  preserve  the  interior  of  the  egg  in  its 
natural  state,  it  is  necessary  to  seal  up  the 
pores  of  the  shell  air-tight.      This  may  be 
done  by  dipping  them  in  melted  suet,  olive 
oil,  milk  of  lime,  solution  of  gum-arabic,  or 
covering  them  with   any   air-proof   varnish. 
They  are  then  packed  in  bran,  oats,  meal,  salt, 
ashes,  or  charcoal  powder. 

1630.  To  Preserve  Eggs.     Yegetable 
oils,  more  especially  linseed,  simply  rubbed 
on  to  the  egg,  hinders  any  alteration  for  a 
sufficiently  long  period,  and  presents  a  very 
simple  and  efficacious  method.    "We  believe 
that  two  coatings  of  collodion  should  preserve 
eggs  better  than  any  other  method  that  has 
yet  been  suggested.      Or    perhaps  a  single 
coating  of  paraffine  might  be  equally  effective. 

1631.  To   Distinguish.   Good  Eggs. 
To  ascertain  whether  an  egg  is  good  or  bad, 
hold  it  up  to  the  light.     A  good  egg  is  trans- 
lucent, but  a  bad  one  is  perfectly  opaque ;  the 
difference  is  as  easily  perceived  as  that  be- 
tween a  blue  egg  and  a  white  one. 

1632.  To  Preserve  by  Alcohol. 
Strong  alcoholic  liquors  are  used  to  prevent 
decomposition  in  both  vegetable  and  animal 
bodies.  They  penetrate  the  substances,  com- 
bine with  its  juices,  and  as  the  organic 'tissues 
have  less  attraction  for  the  spirituous  mixture, 
it  escapes  ;  and  the  tissues  themselves  shrink 
and  harden  in  the  same  way  as  when  salted. 
Alcohol  also  obstructs  change  by  seizing  upon 
the  oxygen  in  the  atmosphere,  in  virtue  of  its 
superior  attraction  for  that  gas,  thus  prevent- 
ing it  from  acting  upon  the  substance  to  be 
preserved. 

1633.  German  Soup  Tablets.  Reinsch 
gives  the  following  receipt  for  making  the 
soup  tablets  so  much  in  use  in  the  German 
army  during  the  late  war :  Take  11  parts  by 
weight  of  good  suet,  melt  it  an  iron  pan,  and 
make  it  very  hot,  so  as  to  become  brown; 
add,  while  keeping  the  fat  stirred,  18  parts 
rye  meal,  and  continue  heating  and  stirring  so 
as  to  make  the  mass  brown ;  add  then  4  parts 
dried  salt  and  2  parts  coarsely  pulverized 
caraway  seed.  The  mixture  is  then  poured 
into  tin  pans  somewhat  like  those  used  for 
making  chocolate  into  cakes.  The  cakes 


have  the  appearance  of  chocolate,  and  are 
chiefly  intended  for  the  use  of  soldiers  while 
in  the  field.  A  quantity  of  about  1  ounce  of 
this  preparation  is  sufficient  to  yield,  when 
boiled  with  some  water,  a  ration  of  good  soup, 
and,  in  case  of  need,  the  cakes,  being  agreea- 
ble to  the  taste,  may  be  eaten  raw. 

1634.  To  Can  Fresh  Fruit.     Procure 
a  sufficient  number  of  tin  cans  of  suitable  size, 
fill  them  quite  full  with  the  fruit,  and  solder 
them  securely.    Next  pierce  a  small  pin-hole 
in  the  top  of  each  can,  to  allow  the  air  to  be 
expelled ;  place  the  cans  in  a  boiler  as  deep  as 
the  cans  are  high,  pour  boiling  water  into  the 
boiler  until  within  £  inch  of  the  top  of  the 
cans;    keep  the  water  hot  over  a  moderate 
fire,  but  not  boiling,  until  the  air  ceases  to 
escape  from  the  cans,  and  then  seal  tl\e  air 
holes  with  solder  before  removing  the  cans 
from  the  water.     The  cans  should   then  be 
taken  out,  wiped  dry,  and  allowed  to  cool; 
when  cold,  if  the  cans  have  been  closed  per- 
fectly air-tight,  the  vacuum  inside  will  cause 
the  top  and  bottom  of  the  cans  to  become 
concave  or  hollowed  inwards.    (See  No.  1611.) 
Tomatoes  are  also  kept  fresh  in  this  manner. 

1635.  To  Insure  Success  in  Canning 
Fruit.     Select  fresh  fruit  that  is  perfectly 
ripe;  but,  at  the  same  time,  perfectly  sound. 
One  unsound  berry  may  injure  all  in  contact 
with  it. 

The  boiling  water  poured  into  the  boiler 
will  be  considerably  cooled  by  contact  with 
the  cans ;  care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  the 
water  return  to  the  boil  while  the  cans  are  in 
it;  and  yet  it  must  become  hot  enough  to 
expel  the  air  from  the  cans. 

The  surest  way  to  attain  the  desired  object 
is  to  keep  the  bulb  of  a  thermometer  in  the 
water.  A  heat  of  200°  to  208°  Fahr.  wiU 
answer  best,  but  it  must  never  exceed-  the 
latter  degree.  To  ascertain  when  all  the  air 
possible  has  been  expelled,  put  one  drop  of 
hot  water  on  the  air  hole ;  the  cessation  or 
absence  of  air  bubbles  passing  through  it  will 
denote  that  the  cans  are  ready  for  final  sealing. 

1636. '  To  Can  Berries.  Peaches,  ap- 
ples, pears,  plums,  &c.,  can  be  kept  perfectly 
fresh  in  tin  cans  in  the  manner  described  in 
No.  1634,  and  will  retain  their  fresh  flavor 
almost,  if  not  entirely,  intact.  Kaspberries, 
strawberries,  <fec.,  are  kept  in  better  condition 
by  adding  |  pound  white  sugar  to  each  pound 
of  fruit,  letting  them  come  to  the  boil,  and 
then  filling  the  cans  quite  full,  soldering  the 
lid  of  the  can  immediately.  The  hot  fruit 
will,  to  all  intents,  expel  the  air  from  the  can. 
No  water  should  be  used  with  fruits,  except 
in  cases  where  a  little  is  necessary  to  dissolve 
the  sugar,  as  it  tends  to  render  them  insipid. 
Most  vegetables  can  be  kept  in  cans  in  this 
way,  omitting  the  sugar,  and  scalding  them  in 
water  sufficient  to  cover  them. 

1637.  To  Expel  the  Air  from  Cans. 
Air,  by  heating,  expands  many  times  its  own 
bulk ;  consequently,  if  you  take  a  jar  and 
cover  it  tightly  with  the1  exception  of  a  hole 
the  size  of  a  pin  through  the  cover,  and  set  it 
in  boiling  water,  as  air  expands  20  times  its 
bulk  by  heating,  it  is  obvious  that  ^  of  the  air 
pases  out  through  the  pin  hole  in  the  cover ; 
now  drop  a  little  sealing  wax  or  solder  over 
the  pin  hole  and  you  have  but  ?\j  of  the  air 
in  the  jar  that  was  in  it  before  heating  it.  Of 


PRESERVATIVES. 


169 


course  the  fruit  and  syrup,  if  put  into  the 
jar  cold,  displaces  most  of  the  air;  but  putting 


cloudy  and  stormy  days,  they  can  be  brought 
into  the  house,  and  set  against  the  side  of  the 


it  in  as  hot  as  it  can  be,  and  filling  as  full  as  room  near  the  stove  or  fire-place, 
possible,  expels  the  air  to  all  intents  and  pur-  j  1641.  To  Keep  Apples  and  Pears 
poses.  Cans  managed  in  this  way,  when !  Fresh.  Gather  the  fruit  during  a  dry  day, 
made  of  sheet  metal,  frequently  collapse  from  and  put  it  at  once  into  earthen  glazed  pans, 

deep  enough  to  contain  two  or  three  layers  of 
fruit,  and  each  pan  having  a  tightly-fitting 
lid.  If  the  fruit  sweats,  the  exudation  dries 
on  the  fruit's  surface,  and  helps  to  keep  in 
the  moisture  and  flavor.  The  cover  helps  to  do 
the  same,  and  to  exclude  the  light.  Keep  the 
pans  in  a  dry,  cool  place,  and  never  wipe  the 


outside  atmospheric  pressure  as  they  cool  ofl 
showing  that  the  exhaustion  was  complete 
even  more  so  than  needed. 

1638.  To  Keep  Fruit  Fresh  in  Jars 
Use  only  self-sealing  glass  jars.     Put  into  i 
porcelain-lined  preserving  kettle,   enough  t< 
fill  2  quart  jars ;  sprinkle  on  sugar,  £  pound 
place  over  a  slow  fire  and  heat  through,  no 
boiled.     While  the  fruit  is  being  heated,  kee] 
the  jars  filled  with  moderately  hot  water.     As 
soon  as  the  fruit  is  ready,  empty  the  wate 
from  the  jars,  fill  to  the  brim  with  fruit,  am 
seal  immediately.    As  it  cools  a  vacuum  is 
formed,  which    prevents  bursting.     In    this 
way  every  kind  of  fruit  will  retain  its  flavor 
Sometimes  a  thick  leathery  mould  forms  on 
the  top — if  so,  all  the  better.     The  plan  o 
keeping  the  jars  full  of  hot  water  is  merely  to 
prevent  the  danger  of  cracking  when  the  hot 
fruit  is  inserted.    Some  prefer  to  set  the  bottles 
full  of  cool  water  in  a  boiler  of  water  anc 
heating  all  together  gradually ;  but  the  other 
way  is  much  simpler  and  equally  effective. 

1639.  To  Can  Peaches  by  the  Cold 
Process.       Pare    and    halve    the    peaches 
Pack  them  as  closely  as  possible  in  a  can 
without  any  sugar.     "When  the  can  is  full, 
pour  in  sufficient  pure  cold  water  to  fill  al 
the  interstices  between  the  peaches,  and  reach 
the  brim  of  the  can.   Let  it  stand  long  enough 
for  the  water  to  soak  into  all  the  crevices — 
say  six  hours — then  pour  in  water  to  replace 
what  has  sunk  away.     Seal  up  the  can,  and 
all  is  done.     Canned  in  this  way,  peaches  re- 
tain all  their  freshness  and  flavor.     There  wil] 
not  be  enough  water  in  them  to  render  them 
insipid.     If  preferred,  a  cold  syrup  could  be 
used  instead  of  pure  water,  but  the  peaches 
taste  most  natural  without  any  sweetening. 

1640.  To   Dry   Apples,    Pears    and 
other  Fruits.     Have  a  frame  made  in  the 
following  manner: — Two  strips   of  board  7 
feet  long,  2  or  2£  inches  wide — two  strips  3 
feet  long,  1£  inches  wide,  the  whole  f  of  an 
inch   thick ;  nail  the  long   strips   across  the 
ends  of  the  short  ones,  and  it  makes  a  frame 
7  by  3  feet,  which  is  a  convenient  size  for  all 

Purposes.  On  one  of  the  long  strips,  nails  are 
riven  3  inches  apart,  extending  from  one  end 
to  the  other.  After  the  apples  are  pared, 
they  are  quartered  and  cored,  and  with  a 
needle  and  twine,  or  stout  thread,  strung  into 
lengths  long  enough  to  reach  twice  across  the 
frame;  the  ends  of  the  twine  are  then  tied 
together,  and  the  strings  hung  on  the  nails 
across  the  frame.  The  apples  will  soon  dry 
so  that  the  strings  can  be  doubled  on  the  nails, 
and  fresh  ones  put  on,  or  the  whole  of  them 
removed  and  others  put  in  their  place.  As 
fast  as  the  apples  become  sufficiently  dry  they 
can  be  taken  from  the  strings,  and  the  same 
strings  used  to  dry  more  on.  If  large  apples 
are  used  to  dry,  they  can  be  cut  in  smaller 
pieces.  Pears  and  quinces,  and  other  fruits 
that  can  be  strung,  may  be  dried  in  this  way. 
In  pleasant  weather  the  frames  can  be  set 
out  of  doors  against  the  side  of  the  building, 
or  any  other  support,  and  at  night,  or  on 


fruit  until  required  for  dessert.  Pears  may 
be  kept  in  the  same  way,  but  require  careful 
and  constant  watching. 

1642.  To  Keep  Fruit   Fresh.     After 
they  have  been  allowed  to  lay  on  the  shelves 
in  the  fruit-room,  and  sweat,  they  should  be 
wiped  dry,  and  packed  in  boxes  with  dry  saw- 
dust enough  to  exclude  the  air  from  them. 
The  saw-dust  from  resinous  woods  should  not 
be  used.     If  they  were  packed  in  dry  sand, 
they  would  keep  equally,  and  perhaps  better ; 
but  the  objection  is  that  it  is  very  difficult  to 
clean  them  from  sand,  and  therefore  they 
always  eat  gritty  when  so  kept. 

1643.  Preservation  of  Fruit  in  Gly- 
cerine.     Glycerine    of  purest  quality    has 
been  recommended  for  the  preservation  of 
fruits;  previous  to  eating  which,  the  glycerine 
should  be  removed  by  immersing  the  fruit  in 
water. 

1644.  To  Restore  and  Improve  Mus- 
ty Flour.     Carbonate  of  magnesia,  3  parts ; 
flour,  760  parts.    Mix  and  use  the  flour  in  the 
usual  way.      This  will  not  only  greatly  im- 
prove bad  flour,  but  the  bread  will  be  much 
lighter,   more  wholesome,   and  keep  longer 
than  when  alum  is  used. 

1645.  To  Keep  Game.     Newly  ground 
coffee,  sprinkled  over  game,  will  keep  it  sweet 
and  fresh  for  several  days.     Clean  the  game ; 
that  is,  wipe  off  the  blood,  cover  the  wounded 
parts  with    absorbent    paper,   wrap    up  the 
heads,  and  then   sprinkle  ground  coffee  over 
and  amongst  the  feathers  or  fur,  as  the  case 
may  be ;    pack  up  carefully,  and  the  game 
will  be  preserved  fresh  and  sweet  in  the  most 
unfavorable  weather.      Game  sent  open  and 
^oose,  cannot,  of  course,  be  treated    in  this 
manner;  but  all  game  packed   in  boxes  or 
lampers  may  be  deodorized  as  described.    A 
;ea-spoonful  of  coffee  is  enough  for  a  brace  of 
jirds ;  and  in  this  proportion  for  more  or  for 
.arger  game. 

1646.  To  Preserve   with   Creosote. 
Creosote,  a  pungent   compound  existing  in 
iommon  smoke,  and  which  starts  the  tears 

when  the  smoke  enters  the  eyes,  is  a  powerful 
antiseptic,  or  preventer  of  putrefaction.  It 
s  employed  to  preserve  animal  substances, 
ither  by  washing  it  over  them  or  by  irnmers- 
ng  them  in  its  aqueous  solution.  A  few 
Irops  in  a  saucer,  or  on  a  piece  of  spongy 
>aper,  if  placed  in  a  larder,  will  effectually 
[rive  away  insects,  and  make  the  meat  keep 
everal  days  longer  than  otherwise.  By  all 
he  modes  in  which  creosote  has  hitherto 
>een  employed  in  preserving  meat,  it  has  ac- 
uired  a  disagreeable  taste  and  smell.  This 
may  be  obviated  by  placing  a  small  plate  con- 
aining  a  little  creosote  immediately  under 
ach  piece  of  meat  as  it  hangs  in  the  larder, 


170 


SOLUTIONS   FOB    ANATOMICAL    PREPARATIONS. 


and  covering  them  both  over  with  a  cloth.  A 
small  quantity  added  to  brine  or  vinegar  if 
commonly  employed  to  impart  a  smoky  flavor 
to  meat  and  fish,  and  its  solution  in  acetic  acic 
is  used  to  give  the  flavor  of  Scotch  whiskey 
to  plain  spirit.  The  preservative  effect  o: 
smoke-drying  is  partially  due  to  creosote 
which  gives  to  the  meat  its  peculiar  smoky 
taste,  and  partly  to  desiccation. 

1647.  To  Test  Creosote.     A  large  pro- 
portion of  ordinary  creosote   is   simply  car- 
bolic   acid;   but  the   pure   creosote,  which 
constitutes  the  peculiar  smell   of  smoke,  is 
quite  a  different  substance,  and  may  be  dis- 
tinguished from  the  false  by  its  behavior  with 
collodion.     A  mixture  of   this  latter  with 
carbolic  acid  gives  a  gelatinous  precipitate 
while  with  true  creosote  the  collodion  remains 
clear.      Dr.   Hager  gives  another  test :    To  a 
weak  solution  of  iron,  a  few  drops  of  ammonia 
are  added,  until  the  precipitate  which  origi- 
nally forms  is  dissolved.      Carbolic  acid  com- 
municates a  blue  or  violet  tinge  to  the  solu- 
tion, while  genuine  creosote  gives  a  green 
color,  afterward  turning  to  brown. 

1648.  Charcoal  as  an  Antiseptic.    It 
is  well  known  that  charcoal  possesses  extra- 
ordinary powers  in  checking  decomposition, 
as  well  as  in  deodorizing  animal  substances 
which  have  already  begun  to  undergo  change. 
Meat,  either  before  or  after  it  is  cooked,  may  be 
preserved  for  a  considerable  time,  even  in  warm 
weather,  by  being  placed  in  the  centre  of  a 
clean  earthenware  vessel,    and   closely  sur- 
rounded with  pieces  of  common  charcoal.  To 
prevent  the  flies  from  "blowing"  the  meat, 
the  vessel  ought  to   be  covered  with  wire- 
gauze.     Putrid  water  is  immediately  deprived 
of  its  bad  smell  by  charcoal.      When  meat, 
fish,  <fec.,  from  intense  heat  or  long  keeping, 
are  likely  to  pass  into  a  state  of  corruption,  a 
simple   mode  of  keeping  them   sound    and 
healthful  is  by  putting  a  few  pieces  of  char- 
coal, each  labout  the  size  of  an  egg,  into  the 
pot  or  saucepan  wherein  the  fish  or  flesh  is  to 
be  boiled. 

1649.  Caution  About  Charcoal.      It 
must  be  recollected  that  in  all  cases,  to  exer- 
cise its  highest  powers    as  a    disinfectant, 
deodorizer,  and  bleacher,  charcoal  should  be 
both  fresh-burnt    and    fresh-powdered,   and 
carefully  preserved  out  of  contact  with  the 
air,  until  about  to  be  employed.     Exposed  to 
the  'air,  it  rapidly  loses  its  valuable  qualities. 

1650.  To  Prevent  Water  From  Pu- 
trefying1.      Keep  it    in  an  iron  vessel,  or 
immerse  fragments  of  iron  in  it.      Distilled 
water   should  be  kept   in  stoppered     glass 
bottles. 


olutions  for  Anatomical 

Preparations.  These  antisep- 
tic fluids  are  used  for  preserving  anatomical 
preparations,  objects  of  natural  history,  &c., 
by  immersing  them  therein,  or  by  injection 
into  the  veins  and  arteries,  arresting  putrefac- 
tion, and  preventing  decay.  Those  containing 
corrosive  sublimate  (bichloride  of  mercury) 
are  apt  to  render  animal  substances  very  hard. 
1652.  Creosote  Antiseptic  Solution. 
Nearly  saturate  water  with  sulphurous  acid, 
and  add  a  little  creosote. 


1653.  Chloride  of  Tin  Antiseptic  So- 
lution.    Dissolve  4  parts  chloride  of  tin  in 
100  parts  water  containing  3  parts  muriatic 
(hydrochloric)  acid. 

1654.  Antiseptic  Solution  of  Ammo- 
nia.    Mix  1  part,  by  weight,  strong  liquor  of 
ammonia,  with  3  parts  water  and  3  parts  rec- 
tified spirit.     Or : — 1  part  sal  ammoniac  and 
10  or  11  parts  water;  for  the  muscular  parts  of 
animals.    A  solution  of  1  part  sulphate  of 
zinc  in  about  20  parts  water  may  also  be  used 
for  the  same  purpose. 

1655.  Babington's  Antiseptic    Solu- 
tion.    1  part  of  wood  naphtha  to  7  parts 
water.     "Wood  naphtha  undiluted  serves  for 
injection. 

1656.  Burnett's  Antiseptic  Solution. 
1  pound  chloride  of  zinc  in  1  gallon  water.   The 
substance  is  immersed  in  this  for  2  to  4  days, 
and  then  dried  in  the  air. 

1657.  Gannal's  Antiseptic  Mixture. 
Dissolve  k  pound  each  alum  and  table  salt, 
and  J  pound  saltpetre,  in  1  gallon  water. 

1658.  Beboulet's  Antiseptic.  For 
pathological  specimens.  Dissolve  1  part 
nitre  (saltpetre),  2  parts  alum,  and  4  parts 
chloride  of  lime  in  16  to  20  parts  water.  To 
be  afterwards  diluted  according  to  circum- 
stances. 

1659.  Thwaites'  Fluid.     Mix  1  ounce 
spirit  of  wine  with  creosote  sufficient  to  satu- 
rate it;  rub  up  with   chalk  to   form  a  thin 
paste,  and  mix  gradually  with  16  ounces  water. 
To  this  may  be  added  an  equal  quantity  of 
water  saturated  with  camphor. 

1660.  Simple  Creosote  Solution.    Dis- 
solve 1  drachm  creosote  in  1  drachm  pyrolig- 
neous  acid,  and  mix  gradually  with  1  pint  cold 
water. 

1661.  Passini's  Solution.     For  blood- 
globules,  nerves,  and  white  tissues  generally. 
Chloride  of  mercury,  1  part ;   chloride  of  so- 
dium, 2  parts;    glycerine,  13  parts;  distilled 
water,  113  parts. 

1662.  Preservative  Fluids  for  Micro- 
scopic Objects.     Canada  balsam,  spirit  and 
water,  glycerine  solution  of  gelatine,  saturated 
solutions  of  alum,  chloride  of  zinc,  and  chloride 
of  calcium,  are  all  used  to  preserve  microscopic 
objects. 

1 663.  Solution  for  Preserving1  Feath- 
ers.    Dissolve  16  grains  strychnine  in  1  pint 
rectified  spirit. 

1664.  Corrosive  Sublimate  Antiseptic 
Solution.     Dissolve  1   part  corrosive  subli- 
mate  (bichloride  of  mercury),   and   3  parts 
chloride  of  sodium  (table  salt),  in  100  parts 
water  containing   2  parts  muriatic   (hydro- 

hloric)  acid. 

1665.  G-oadby's  Antiseptic  Solutions. 
2  ounces  bay   salt,   1   ounce   alum,   1    grain 
Bichloride  of  mercury  (corrosive  sublimate), 
and  1  pint  of  water.     This  is  good  for  ordi- 
nary purposes.     But  for  tender  tissues,   or 
where  there  is  a  tendency  to    mouldiuess, 
double  the  proportions  of  corrosive  sublimate 
and  of  water.     For  subjects  containing  car- 
jonate  of  lime,  double  the  proportion  of  bay 
salt,  and  omit  the  alum. 

Or : — i  pound  bay  salt,  10  grains  arsenious 
acid,  and  1  pint  water ;  adding  1  grain  corro- 
sive sublimate  when  there  is  any  tendency  to 
softening  in  the  parts  of  the  subject.  These 
are  excellent  antiseptic  solutions. 


TO    PRESERVE    WOOD. 


171 


1666.  Embalming.     Mix   together   5 
pounds  dry  sulphate  of  alumina,  1  quart  warm 
water,  and  100  grains  arsenious  acid.    Inject 
3  or  4  quarts  of  this  mixture  into  all  the  ves- 
sels of  the  human  body.     This  applies  as  well 
to  all  animals,  birds,  fishes,  &c.    This  process 
supersedes  the  old  and  revolting  mode,  and 
has  been  introduced  into  the  great  anatomical 
schools  of  Paris. 

1667.  Preparation  for  Stuffing  Birds 
and  Animals.     Camphor,  1  ounce ;  corrosive 
sublimate,  1  ounce ;  alum,  -£•  ounce ;  sulphur, 

1  ounce ;  all  finely  powdered  and  mixed. 

1668.  Antiseptic    for    Preserving 
Birds  and  Animals.     The  simplest  means 
of  preserving    anatomical    and  pathological 
preparations  is  the  use  of  the  following  solu- 
tion :     Saturated  solution  of  alum,  100  parts ; 
saltpetre,  2  parts.     The  article  to  be  preserved 
is  immersed  in  the  solution,  when  it  becomes 
decolorized ;  but  in  a  few  days  the  color  re- 
turns, when  it  is  taken  out  of  the  solution, 
and  kept  in  a  saturated  solution  of  alum  and 
water  only. 

1669.  Becceur's     Arsenical     Soap. 
Camphor,    5    drachms;    arsenic,   4    ounces; 
white  soap,  4  ounces ;  carbonate  of  potash,  12 
ounces;    air-slaked  lime,  4  ounces;   make  a 
stiff  paste  with  a  little  water.    Used  for  pre- 
paring the  skins  of  birds  and  other  small 
animals. 

1 670.  Becoeur's  Fluid  Arsenical  Soap. 
This  is  prepared  as  follows : — Cut  1  pound 
soap  into  thin  slices,  put  it  with  a  little 
water  into  a  pot  upon  the  fire,  stirring  fre- 
quently with  a  wooden  spoon  until  dissolved; 
add  6  ounces  carbonate  of  potassa  and  2 
ounces  chalk.  Then  take  it  off  the  fire,  and 
add  1  pound  arsenious  acid,  stirring  it  in 
thoroughly ;  lastly,  pound  3  ounces  camphor 
in  a  mortar  with  a  little  alcohol,  and  incorpo- 
rate it  with  the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  This 
makes  a  composition  of  a  consistence  of  paste. 
When  required  for  use,  dissolve  2  ounces  in  a 
pint  of  alcohol,  and  apply  with  a  brush. 

1671.      Laurent's   Antiseptic    Soap. 
Place  i  ounce  powdered  soap  in  a  bottle  with 

2  drachms  each  of  arsenite  of  potassa,  sul- 
phate of  alumina,  and  pulverized  camphor; 
pour  upon  them  6  ounces  alcohol,  and  allow 
them  to  stand  24  hours.     "When  thoroughly 
combined,  add  3  drops  oil  of  thyme,  and  cork 
the  bottle  carefolly. 

1672.  Beconi's  Arsenical  Soap.     Ar- 
senious acid,  32  ounces;  carbonate  of  potassa, 
12  ounces;  camphor,  5  ounces;  white  soap, 
32  ounces ;  powdered  lime,  8  ounces.     Eeduce 
each  to  a  powder,  and  mix.     Used  as  a  pre- 
servative for  specimens  of  natural    history 
against  the  attacks  of  insects. 

1673.  Carbolic  Acid  as  a  Preserva- 
tive.    Reference  has  been  made  in  some  of 
the   scientific  journals  to  experiments  upon 
carbolic  acid  as  a  means  of  preserving  objects 
of  natural  history,  and  the  anticipation  has 
been  indulged  in  by  many  that  this  powerful 
agent  may  be  able  to  replace  all  the  ordinary 
methods  of  taxidermy.     This,  however,  is  a 
very  great  mistake,  since  it  can  be  used  to 
a  small  extent  only  in  the  preparation  of  en- 
tire bodies  of  animals  that  are  to  be  preserved 
dry — because  the  process  of  desiccation  will 
inevitably  proceed  until  the  original  form  of 
the  animal  is  entirely  lost.  For  many  purposes, 


however,  carbolic  acid  has  proved  of  much  value 
as  a  preservative,  and  its  uses  are  increasing. 
Thus,  diluted  with  about  50  times  its  bulk  of 
water,  it  forms  a  capital  substitute  for  alcohol 
in  preserving  fish  and  other  objects;  and,  in 
fact,  the  larger  fish,  such  as  rays,  sharks,  etc., 
can  be  kept  much  better  by  its  aid  than  even 
by  means  of  alcohol.  Added  in  small  quan- 
tity to  very  weak  spirit,  it  very  materially 
increases  its  preservative  strength. 

1674.  Carbolic  Acid  as  a  Temporary 
Preservative.    Although  carbolic  acid  can- 
not be  used  as  a  substitute  for  the  usual 
methods  in  setting  up  birds  and  mammals,  it 
can  be  employed  to  very  great  advantage  in 
keeping  them  fresh  until  they  can  be  properly 
skinned.    An  experiment  of  this  kind  was 
once  made  by  Dr.  Totten,  of  New  York,  who 
prepared  a  solution  of  1  drachm  of  carbolic 
acid,  Ik  ounces  each  of  glycerine  and  dilute 
alcohol,  and  injected  it  into  the  mouth,  the 
rectum,  and  under  the  skin  of  a  large  cormo- 
rant.   The  bird  was  kept  on  board  ship  until 
it  reached  New  York,  a  period  of  about  two 
months  after  its  capture,  and  was  then  sent  to 
a  taxidermist,  who  found  it  to  be  in  perfect 
condition,  and  who  was  able  to  mount  it  as 
satisfactorily  as  if  it  had  been  but  just  killed. 

1675.  Von  Vetter's  Process  for  the 
Preservation  of  Anatomical  Specimens. 
Add  to  7  parts  of  glycerine  at  22°  Baume, 
1  part  raw  brown  sugar  and  k  part  nitre,  till 
a  slight  deposit  is  formed  at  the  bottom  of  the 
vessel.     The  portion  required  to  be  preserved 
is  then  immersed  (dried  or  not  dried)  and  left 
in  the  mixture  for  a  time  proportional  to  its 
dimensions;  a  hand,  for  example,  should  re- 
main eight  days  in  the  liquid;   when  it  is 
taken  out  it  is  as  stiff  as  a  piece  of  wood,  but 
if  it  be  suspended  in  a  dry  and  warm  place 
the  muscles  and  articulation   recover   their 
suppleness. 

1676.  Preserving    Insects.     A  good 
way  to  render  insects  durable  is  to  perforate 
their  bodies  once  or  twice  with  a  long  pin 
dipped  in  a  strong  solution  of  corrosive  subli- 
mate.    If  you  have  cases  full,  clean  the  in- 
sects and  cases  as  thoroughly  as  possible, 
paint  the  inside  of  the  cases  over  with  a  brush 
dipped  into  a  solution  of  the  sublimate,  and 
after  putting  a  few  pieces  of  camphor  at  the 
bottom  of  the  case,  fix  the  lid  on,  and  paste  a 
strip  of  paper  over  the  crevices. 


To  Preserve  Wood.     The 
following  receipts  for  preserving  timber 
from  decay  have  been  obtained  fi'om  various 
sources,  and  are  the  results  of  careful  experi- 
ment by  scientific  experts. 

1678.  To  Prevent  the  Splitting  of 
Logs  and  Planks.  Logs  and  planks  split 
at  the  ends  because  the  exposed  surface  dries 
faster  than  the  inside.  Saturate  muriatic  acid 
with  lime,  and  apply  like  whitewash  to  the 
ends.  The  chloride  of  calcium  formed  attracts 
moisture  from  the  air  and  prevents  the  split- 
ting. Tobacconists'  signs,  and  other  wooden 
images,  have  usually  a  hole  bored  through 
their  centre,  from  top  to  bottom ;  this  in  a 
great  measure  prevents  the  outer  surface  from 
cracking,  by  allowing  the  wood  to  dry  and 
shrink  more  uniformly. 


172 


MIXTURES   FOR    FREEZING. 


1679.  To    Preserve    Timber    from 
Decay  and   Dry-Rot.      The  best  way  to 
preserve  timber  exposed  to  the  action  of  the 
weather  is  to  force  into  the  pores  of  well-sea- 
soned wood  as  much  carbolic  acid,  or  creosote, 
as  possible.    This  soon  resinifies,  and  most 
effectually  prevents  the  timber  from  dry-rot 
and  decay.     On  a  large  scale,   as  for  railway 
sleepers,   expensive    appliances  are    needed ; 
but  for  barns  or  outbuildings  it  may  be  applied 
to  considerable  advantage  by  the  use  of  a 
paint  brush. 

1680.  Solution   to   Preserve   Wood. 
With  every  25  gallons  of  water  required,  mix 
5  pounds  chloride  of  zinc.    Wood  steeped  in 
this  solution  will  effectually  resist  dry-rot. 

1681.  To  Kyanize  Wood  or  Cordage. 
Immerse  the  wood  or  cordage  in  a  solution  of 
50  or  60  parts  water  and  1  part  corrosive 
sublimate.    This  preserves  it  from  decay,  and 
renders  wood  tough  and  more  difficult  to  split. 

1682.  To  Preserve  and  Harden 
Wood.  Wood  steeped  in  a  solution  of  cop- 
peras becomes  harder  and  more  indestructible. 

1683.  German  Receipt  for   Coating 
Wood   with  a   Substance  as  Hard   as 
Stone.      Melt  together  40  parts  chalk,  50 
resin,  and  4  linseed  oil;    to  this  should  be 
added  1  part  oxide  of  copper,  and  afterwards 
1  part  sulphuric  acid.    This  last  ingredient 
must  be  added  carefully.    The  mixture,  while 
hot,  is  applied  with  a  brush,  and  forms,  when 
dry,  a  varnish  as  hard  as  stone.     This  is  an 
excellent  application  to  protect  posts,  tubs, 
or  other  wooden  articles  which  are  set  in  the 
earth. 

1684.  To  Preserve  Wood  Under  Wa- 
ter.    Wood  impregnated  with  creosote    oil 
has  been  found  to  resist  effectually  the  ravages 
of  the  teredo  worm;    this  worm  being  the 
cause  of  decay  by  honey-combing  the  entire 
substance  of  the  wood.     In  Germany  chloride 
of  zinc  is  used  for  this  purpose,  the  timber  be- 
ing   placed    in  boilers,   partly  exhausted   of 
air,  and  the  vapor  of  chlorine  thus  driven  in- 
to it.    These  remedies  are  recommended  by 
a  committee  of  practical  experts,  appointed  by 
the  Academy  of  Sciences  in  Holland  to  ascer- 
tain the  best  means  for  preserving  timber  un- 
der water. 

1685.  Preservation  of  Wood.      Ar- 
mand  Muller  has  instituted  some  interesting 
experiments  upon  this  subject,  and  arrives  at 
the  conclusion  that  the  phosphate  of  baryta, 
formed  by  the  mutual  decomposition  of  phos- 
phate of  soda  and  chloride  of  barium,  in  the 
pores  of  the  wood,  is  one  of  the  best  preservative 
agents  available  to  chemists.     Soak  the  wood 
5  days  in  a  7  per  cent,  solution  of  phosphate 
of  soda,  and  after  drying,  suspend  in  a  13  per 
cent    solution    of  chloride  of  barium  for  7 
days.    It  is  believed  that  wood  thus  prepared 
will  withstand  the  action  of  moisture  better 
than  with  any  other  preparation.     The  chief 
obstacle  to  the  use  of   such  chemicals  is  in 
their  cost. 

1686.  To   Petrify  Wooden   Objects. 
Take  equal  quantities  of  gem-salt,  rock-alum, 
white  vinegar,  chalk  and  pebbles,  powdered. 
Mix  all  these  ingredients;  ebullition  will  ensue. 
After  it  has  ceased,  throw  some  wooden  ob- 
jects into  this  liquid,  and  let  them  soak  for  4 
or  5  days,  at  the  end  of  which  time  they  will 
be  transformed  into  petrifactions. 


Mixtures  for  Freezing; 
WltllOUt     Ice.      In  the   fof- 
lowmg  table,  the  water  should  not  be  warmer 
than  30°  Fahrenheit. 


Mixtures. 

Nitrate  of   Ammonia,  1 

Water 1 

Muriate  of  Ammonia. .  5 

Nitrate  of  Potash 5 

Water 16 

Muriate  of  Ammonia..  5 

Nitrate  of  Potash 5 

Sulphate  of  Soda 8 

Water ie 

Sulphate  of  Soda 

Diluted  Nitric  Acid. . . . 
Nitrate  of  Ammonia.. 
Carbonate  of  Soda. . . , 
Water  . . . 


Phosphate  of  Soda.. 
Dilute  Nitric  Acid... 


Sulphate  of  Soda 
Hydrochloric  Acid 

Sulphate  of  Soda 5 

Diluted  Sulphuric  Acid,  4 

Sulphate  of  Soda 6 

Muriate  of  Ammonia. .  4 

Nitrate  of  Potash 2 

Diluted  Nitric  Acid....  4 


Sulphate  of  Soda 

Nitrate  of  Ammonia. . . 


Diluted  Nitric  Acid....  4 


Fahrenheit        Degrees 

Thermometer       of  Cold 

Sinks  from      Produced 

•  50°  to  4° 46° 

>°to  10° 40° 

50°  to  4° 46* 

J  50°  to— 3°... 53* 

I  60°  to —7° 57' 

|  60° to— 12° 62* 

|  50°  toO° 60° 

|  60°  to  3° 47° 

50°  to —10° 60* 

60°  to —14° 64* 


1688. 


Table   of  Freezing   Mixtures 
with  Snow. 


Fahr 


ihtlt        Degrees 
Mixtures.  Thermometer      of  Cold 

Sinks  from      Produced 

Snow 3  parts. )  ~v  ,       „„„  „. 

Diluted  Sulphuric  Acid,  2       "    J  *" 

Snow 8 

Muriatic  Acid 5 

Snow 7 

Dilute  Nitric  Acid 4 

Snow 4 

Muriate  of  Lime 5 

Snow 2 

Crys'd  Muriate  of  Lime,  3 

Snow 3 

Potash 4 


32°  to —27°. 
32°  to —30°. 
32"  to —40°. 


\  32° to— 60° 82* 

|  32° to— 51° 83° 

1 689.  Freezing  Mixtures  with  Pound- 
ed Ice  or  Snow.  The  following  mixtures 
reduce  the  temperature  down  to  a  certain 
degree  of  cold,  irrespective  of  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  materials  at  mixing. 

Fahr.  Ther- 


Snow,  or  Pounded  Ice 2  parts.  ] 

Muriate  of  Soda 1      "     ] 

Snow,  or  Pounded  Ice 6 

Muriate  of  Soda 2 

Muriate  of  Ammonia. 1 

Snow,  or  Pounded  Ice, 24 

Muriate  of  Soda 10 

Muriate  of  Ammonia 6 

Nitrate  of  Potash 5 

Snow,  or  Pounded  Ice 12 

Muriate  of  Soda 6 

Nitrate  of  Ammonia 5 

Snow,  or  Pounded  Ice 2 

Common  Table  Salt,  or  Kock  Salt. .  1 

1690.      Metallic    Freezing    Mixture. 

An  .interesting  experiment  may  be  made  by 
melting  together  59  parts  tin,  103 i  lead,  and 
183  bismuth.  If  this  be  finely  rasped  or 
powdered,  and  introduced  into  108  parts,  by 
weight,  of  quicksilver,  a  thermometer  im- 
mersed in  the  mixture  will  sink  to  nearly  3° 
Fahr. ;  and  water  placed  in  a  thin  test-tube, 


+    ., 
lo 


to  —  12° 


to  —25* 


t 


DISINFECTANTS. 


173 


and  allowed  to  remain  for  a  few  minutes  in 
this  bath,  will  be  completely  frozen. 

1691.  How  to  Keep  Ice  in  Summer. 
No  refrigerator  or  ice-box  will  prevent,  or  even 
retard  the  melting  of  the  ice,  which  does  noi 
combine  the  following  conditions:  It  mus 
have  double  sides,  bottom,  and  lid,  with  the 
space  between  the  two  casings  filled  with 
some  non-conducting  substance,  in  order  to 
exclude  the  external  temperature ;  and  the 
inner  lid  or  cover  should  be  practically,  if  noi 
hermetically,  air-tight,  in  furtherance  of  the 
same  result.  If  external  air  enters,  it  wil 
bring  its  own  temperature  with  it.  There 
should  be  also  a  drainage-pipe  at  the  bottom 
to  carry  off,  instantaneously,  every  drop  01 
water  formed  by  the  melting  of  the  ice,  and 
this  pipe  should  either  be  fitted  with  a  trap  or 
curved  in  such  a  manner  as  to  prevent  the 
cold  air  from  escaping.  It  is  even  more  indis- 
pensable to  carry  off  every  drop  of  the  water 
than  it  is  to  exclude  the  air — a  view  not 
generally  entertained  by  consumers  of  the 
article,  but  which,  according  to  experiments 
made,  seems  to  be  fully  demonstrated.  Thus, 
on  exposing  a  piece  of  ice  weighing,  say  25 
pounds,  to  the  air,  at  a  temperature  of  75°,  but 
so  placed  that  it  is  perfectly  drained,  it  will  be 
found  to  have  scarcely  disappeared  at  the  end 
of  24  hours.  Wrap  the  same  piece  in  3  or  4 
thicknesses  of  blanket  or  flannel,  and  place  it 
in  a  small  tub  exposed  to  the  same  tempera- 
ture, and  as  the  water  filters  through  the 
blanket,  the  ice  will  stand  in  its  own  water,  and 
will  be  all  dissolved  in  5  or  6  hours.  Wrap 
the  same  piece  of  ice  carefully  in  a  blanket, 
and  place  it  on  a  grating,  or  on  four  crossed 
sticks,  so  that  no  water  can  accumulate  under- 
neath, and  at  the  end  of  3  or  even  4  days  it 
will  not  have  entirely  melted. 


Disinfectants  are  substances 
which  absorb,  neutralize  or  destroy 
putrescent  effluvia  and  miasmata,  and  thus 
remove  the  causes  of  infection.  The  princi- 
pal disinfectants  are  chlorine,  the  chlorides 
(hypochlorites)  of  lime  and  soda,  chloride  of 
zinc,  charcoal,  carbolic  acid,  the  fumes  of 
nitric,  nitrous,  and  sulphurous  acids,  and  ven- 
tilation. The  clothing,  bedding,  &c.,  of  pa- 
tients laboring  under  contagious  diseases, 
may  be  effectually  disinfected  by  exposing  to 
a  temperature  of  about  that  of  boiling  water. 
Neither  the  texture  nor  color  of  textile  fabrics 
is  injured  evert  by  a  heat  of  250°  Fahr.  It 
is  a  practice  at  some  of  the  poorhouses  to 
bake  the  clothes  of  the  paupers  who  have  the 
itch,  or  are  infested  with  vermin.  Quicklime 
rapidly  absorbs  carbonic  acid,  sulphuretted 
hydrogen,  and  several  other  noxious  gases, 
and  is  therefore  commonly  used  as  a  wash  for 
the  walls  of  buildings.  Acetic  acid,  camphor, 
fragrant  pastils,  cascarilla,  and  other  similar 
substances,  are  frequently  burnt  or  volatilized 
by  heat,  for  the  purpose  of  disguising  un- 
pleasant odors.  The  chlorides  as  well  as  the 
sulphates  of  iron  and  lime  have  the  property 
of  rapidly  destroying  noxious  .  effluvia.  A 
quantity  of  either  of  these  sulphates  thrown 
into  a  cesspool,  for  instance,  will  in  a  few 
hours  remove  the  fetid  smell. 


1693.  Metropolitan       Disinfecting 
Fluid.     The  Board  of  Health  of  the  city  of 
New  York  have  recommended  a  disinfecting 
fluid    composed  of   sesquichloride    of   iron, 
chloride    of  manganese,   chlorine,     and  car- 
bolic acid.      The  sesquichloride  of  iron  has 
been  found  by  experiment  to  deodorize  more 
effectually  than  chloride  of  lime,  sulphate  of 
zinc,  or  other  disinfectants.      It  is  therefore 
recommended  as  an  important  constituent  of 
any  disinfectant.      Sesquichloride  of  iron  is 
prepared  by  dissolving  the  hydrated  sesquiox- 
ide  of  iron  in  muriatic  acid ;  to  this  is  added 
10  per  cent,  of  carbolic  acid.     This  forms  the 
fluid  in  a  concentrated  form,  and  is  largely 
diluted  with  water  at  the  time  of  using.    All 
night  scavengers  are  compelled  by  the  Board 
of  Health  of  New  York  to  use  it.     Its  effects 
are  compound.      The  iron  checks  fermenta- 
tion, and  the  chlorine  acts  as  an  oxidizing 
agent.    Its  carbolic  acid  also  aids  in  arresting 
decomposition    and    fermentation,   and    the 
whole  combination,  therefore,  by  its  chemical 
action,    decomposes     the    sulphuretted    hy- 
drogen. 

1694.  To     Disinfect    Stables     and 
Slaughter-Houses.     Dr.  Letherby,  Health 
officer  of  the  city  of  London,  says  in  a  recent 
report  on  the  subject,  that  the  best  disinfect- 
ant   for    stables   and    slaughter-houses    is  a 
mixed  chloride  and  hypochlprite  of  zinc,  and 
it  has  the  advantage  of  mixing  freely  with 
the  liquid  matters  of  the  slaughter-house,  and 
not  tainting  the  meat  with  any  unpleasant 
odors ;  and  it  is  also  applicable  to  the  disin- 
fection of  houses  in  place  of  chloride  of  lime, 
which  it  much  resembles  in  its  chemical  na- 
ture and  mode  of  action. 

1695.  Burnett's  Disinfecting  Fluid. 
A  solution  of  chloride  of  zinc,  made  by  dis- 
solving zinc  in  commercial  muriatic  acid  to 
saturation,  and  known  as  Sir  William  Bur- 
nett's   Disinfecting    Fluid,     has  been  found 
most  useful  as  a  purifying  agent,  and  in  re- 
moving and  destroying  contagion.      In  puri- 
fying sick  rooms  or  crowded  places  the  solu- 
tion should  be  moistened  by  means  of  a  piece 
of  flannel  cloth,  about  3  or  4  feet  square, 
attached  to  a  long  rod  and  waved  through  the 
air  for  10  minutes  at  a  time;  in  addition  to 
which  the  floor  should  be  mopped  or  sprinkled 
over  with  the  same  dilute  solution,  if  neces- 
sary, several  times  a  day,  and  a  small  quantity 
put  into  the  close-stools  and  bed-pans.      The 
water-closets  should  also  be  cleansed  with  it, 
and  2  gallons  occasionally  thrown  down  each. 
When  floors  and  woodwork  are  washed  with 
;he  solution,  the  use  of  soap  or  soda  should 

avoided  immediately  before  or  after  its  ap- 
plication; and  whitewashing  should  not  be 
applied  to  any  part  recently  washed  or 
sprinkled  with  it. 

1696.  To  Purify   a  Sick  Chamber. 
The  nitrous  acid  vapor,  so  invaluable  as  a  dis- 
infectant in  contagious  fevers,  is  obtained  by 
decomposing  nitre  by  means  of  heated  sulphur- 
"c  acid,  in  the  following  manner :  Put  \  ounce 
sulphuric  acid  in  a  crucible  glass  or  china  cup 
and  warm  it  over  a  lamp  or  in  heated  sand, 
adding  to  it  from  time  to  time  a  little  nitre. 
Several  of  these  vessels  must  be  placed  in  the 
sick  chamber  and  in  the  neighboring  apart-  * 
ments  and  passages,  at  a  distance  of  20  feet 
or  more  from  each  other,  according  to  the 


174, 


DISINFECTANTS. 


height  of  the  ceiling  and  the  virulence  of  the  j  and  makes  it  drinkahle.    A  tea-spoonful  to  a 
contagion.      As  an  evidence  of  the  value  of  I  hogshead  is  generally  enough,  but  if  added 
this  method  of  disinfection  it  may  be  men- 
tioned that  Dr.  Carmichael  Smyth,  of  London, 
by  whom  it  was  originally  practiced,  received 
from  Parliament  a  premium  of  £5,000  for  his 
discovery. 

1697.  Hyponitrous  Acid  as  a  Disin- 
fectant.    A    special     commission    was   ap- 
pointed by  the  Academy  of  Sciences  at  Paris, 
to  study  the  different  means  of  disinfecting 
those  localities  which,  during  the  siege,  had 
been  appropriated  to  persons  afflicted  with 
contagious    diseases.       Its    report  furnishes 
some  useful  guides  to  the  selection  and  the 
application  of  disinfectants.      It  was  agreed 
that  the  very  first  place  among  destructive 
agents  which  can  attack  and  destroy  infec- 
tious germs,  should  be  assigned  to  hyponi- 
trous  acid.     Great  precaution  should  be  exer- 
cised, however,  by  those  employing  the  very 
dangerous  nitrous  vapors. 

1698.  Carbolic  Acid  as 
ant.      The     French 

1697)  also  reported  that  carbolic  acid  is  much 
more  easily  applied,  is  less  dangerous  and  ex- 
pensive than  hyponitrous  acid,  and  seems  to 


a  Disinfect- 

commission    (see  No. 


offer    guarantees    of    quite    equal 
founded  on  experimental  evidence. 


efficacy, 
It  is  best 


employed  by  mixing  with  sand  or  sawdust  in 
the  proportion  of  1  part  by  weight  of  acid, 
and  3  parts  of  the  inert  material.  The  mix- 
ture is  placed  in  earthen  pots.  Carbolic  acid, 
diluted  with  25  to  30  times  its  weight  of 
water,  has  been  found  useful  in  sprinkling 
daily  the  floors  and  the  bedding  of  sick  cham- 
bers. It  has  been  stated  by  M.  Devergie, 
that  water  containing  only  the  4  ^  0  part  of 
its  weight  of  carbolic  acid  sufficed  for  the 
disinfection  of  a  dead-house  during  the  hot- 
test weather,  when  it  contained  from  6  to  7 
bodies. 

1699.  Collins'  Disinfecting  Powder. 
Mix  2  parts  dry  chloride  of  lime  with  1  of 
burnt  alum.  To  be  set  in  shallow  dishes  in 
rooms,  &c.,  with  or  without  the  addition  of 


Ellerman's  Deodorizing  Fluid. 


water. 
1700. 

This  consists  chiefly  of  perchlorides  and  chlor- 
ides of  iron  and  manganese.  In  a  report  ad- 
dressed to  the  Metropolitan  Board  of  "Works 
of  London  in  1859,  Drs.  Hoffman  and  Prank- 
land  stated  that  the  perchloride  of  iron  was 
the  cheapest  and  most  efficient  deodorizer  that 
could  be  applied  to  sewage;  £  gallon  deodor- 
ized 7500  gallons.  1  bushel  lime,  or  3  pounds 
chloride  of  lime,  would  do  the  same. 

1701.  Condy's  Solution.  A  saturated 
solution  of  permanganate  of  potassa  is  one 
of  the  most  efficient  and  elegant  of  all  disin- 
fectants. A  tea- spoonful  in  a  soup-plate  of 
water,  exposed  in  a  room,  quickly  removes 
any  offensive  smell;  when  the  pink  color 
disappears  more  must  be  added.  It  has  been 
used  to  remove  the  smell  of  bilge- water  and 
guano  from  ships.  A  word  as  to  economy : 
One  ounce  of  the  crystallized  salt  costs  about 
as  much  as  a  pound  of  the  crude,  which  is 
just  as  good  for  deodorizing  purposes.  The 
crude  gives  a  greenish  solution,  which,  even 
while  cold,  but  more  rapidly  and  completely 
upon  boiling,  passes  into  the  deep  red  so 
characteristic  of  the  permanganate,  and  is 
fit  for  use.  It  speedily  cleanses  foul  water 


until  the  water  acquires  a  permanent  faint 
tinge,  we  are  certain  that  injurious  organic 
matter  has  been  destroyed.  Then,  as  Condy 
suggests,  if  a  piece  of  clean  stick  be  put  into 
the  liquid,  or  if  a  little  tea  or  coffee  be  added, 
the  pink  color  will  disappear,  and  the  water 
will  be  fit  for  use.  The  very  small  amount  of 
potassa  remaining  in  the  solution  could  not 
possibly  do  any  harm,  as  it  would  not  amount 
to  ]^0  part  of  a  grain  to  the  gallon. 

1702.  Siret's    Compound.      Sulphate 
of  iron,  20     pounds;    sulphate   of   zinc,  3£ 
pounds;    wood   or  peat  charcoal,   1  pound ; 
sulphate  of  lime,  26£  pounds  ;    mix  and  form 
into  balls.      To  be  placed  in  cesspools,   &c., 
to  deodorize  them.    M.  Siret  has  subsequently 
modified  this  compound  thus:    Sulphate   of 
iron,  100  parts;  sulphate  of  zinc,  50;    tan  or 
oak-bark  powder,  40 ;  tar,  5 ;  and  oil,  5  parts. 

1703.  Ledoyen's  Solution.      This  is  a 
solution  of   nitrate   of    lead,    and    contains 
about  20  ounces  of  the  salt  in  a  gallon.    The 
specific  gravity  should   be    1.40."    A  similar 
compound  may  be  made  by  mixing  13£  ounces 
litharge  with  6  pints  water,  and  adding   12 
ounces  nitric   acid   at  1.38   specific    gravity 
(or  8  ounces  at  1.50)  and  digesting  at  a  gen- 
tle heat  till  the  solution  is  complete. 

1704.  Chloride  of  Lime  as  a  Disin- 
fectant.    It  is   a  great  purifier.      1  pound 
requires  3  gallons  of  water;    use  the   clear 
solution.      To  purify  rooms,  sprinkle  on  the 
floor,  and,  if  needful,  on  the  bed-linen.      In- 
fected clothes   should  be    dipped    in  it  and 
wrung  out,  just  before  they  are  washed.      It 
purifies  night  commodes,  water-closets,  &c. 
It  may  also  be  used  in  its  pure  state.      For 
butcher  stalls,  fish  markets,  slaughter  houses, 
sinks,  and  wherever  there  are  offensive  putrid 
gases,  sprinkle  it  about,  and  in  a  few  days  the 
smell  will  pass  away.    If  a  cat,  rat,  or  mouse, 
dies  about  the  house,  and  sends  forth  an  offen- 
sive gas,  place  some  chloride  of  lime  in  an  open 
vessel  near  the  place  where  the  nuisance  is, 
and  it  will  soon  purify  the  atmosphere.     The 
presence  of  chloride  of  lime  in  a  room  causes 
iron  or  steel  to  rust  rapidly.     Articles  of  that 
material  should  therefore  be  removed  during 
the  use  of  this  disinfectant. 

1705.  Precautions   to   be    Observed 
Before  Entering  a  Sick  Boom,  particu- 
larly where  there  is  Fever. 

Never  enter  fasting;  if  it  is  inconvenient 
to  take  refreshment  of  the  ordinary  kind,  ob- 
tain a  glass  of  wine  and  a  cracker. 

Do  not  stand  between  the  patient  and  the 
door,  if  possible.  Avoid  sitting  on  or  touch- 
ing the  bed-clothes  as  much  as  possible,  and 
do  not  inhale  the  patient's  breath.  The  hands 
should  always  be  washed  in  clean  water,  if 
the  patient  has  fever,  before  leaving  the  room 
to  touch  other  people  or  things. 

After  visiting  a  fever  patient,  <fcc.,  change 
the  dress,  if  possible.  As  soon  as  the  fever 
is  over,  and  the  patient  is  convalescent, 
the  dress  which  has  been  used  by  the  nurse  or 
attendant  should  be  destroyed  if  there  are 
no  means  of  fumigation  at  hand,  or  it  must 
be  boiled  in  water  to  which  carbolic  acid  has 
been  added.  The  same  treatment  must  be 
applied  to  the  bed-clothes,  <fcc.,  which  have 
been  used. 


BLEACHING. 


175 


1706.      Onions    as    a   Disinfectant. 

Onions  placed  in  the  room  where  there  is 
small-pox  will  blister,  and  decompose  with 
great  rapidity ;  besides  this,  they  will  prevenl 
the  spread  of  the  disease.  As  a  disinfectanl 
they  have  no  equal,  when  properly  used ;  bul 
keep  them  out  of  the  stomach. 

1707.  To  Prevent  Infection.  Let 
communication  with  the  sick  by  actual  con- 
tact be  as  far  as  possible  avoided.  Let  the 
patient  be  lightly  covered  with  the  bed-clothes 
his  chamber  freed  from  all  unnecessary  articles 
of  furniture,  and  kept  perfectly  clean;  the 
sheets  and  body  linens  frequently  changed 
and  removed  from  the  sick  room,  as  well  as 
all  substances  producing,  or  likely  to  produce, 
any  smell ;  and  above  all  things  let  the  cham- 
ber and  the  adjoining  apartments  and  passages 
be  completely  and  freely  ventilated  by  open- 
ing opposite  doors  and  windows ;  for  although 
contagion  may  be  carried  by  the  air,  it  be- 
comes inert  when,  instead  of  being  concen- 
trated, it  is  sufficiently  diffused. 

1708.  Special  Preservative  Against 
Infection.     In  a  lecture  delivered  in    the 
Royal  Institution,  Professor  Tyndall  proved, 
by  a  series  of  interesting  experiments,  that  the 
surest  filter  in  a  contagious  atmosphere  is 
cotton  wool.     "  If  a  physician,"  said  the  Pro- 
fessor, "wishes  to  holdback  from  the  lungs 
of  his  patient,  or  from  his  own,  the  germs  by 
which  contagious  disease  is  said  to  be  propa- 

fated,  he  will  employ  a  cotton  wool  respirator, 
n  the  crowded  dwellings  of  the  London  poor, 
where  the  isolation  of  the  sick  is  difficult,  if 
not  impossible,  the  noxious  air  around  the 
patient  may  by  this  simple  means  be  restored 
to  practical  purity.  Thus  filtered,  attendants 
may  breathe  the  air  unharmed,  for  it  is  ex- 
ceedingly probable  that  the  germs  which 
lodge  in  th'e  air-passages,  and  which,  at  their 
leisure,  can  work  their  way  across  the  mucous 
membrane,  are  those  which  sow  in  the  body 
epidemic  disease.  If  this  be  so,  such  disease 
may  be  warded  off  by  filters  of  cotton  wool." 

1709.  To  Diffuse  a  Fragrant  Odor. 
A  few  drops  of  oil  of  sandal  wood  dropped  on 
a  hot  shovel,  will  diffuse  a  most  agreeable 
balsamic  perfume  through  the  room. 

1710.  Simple  Mode  of  Purifying 
Water.  A  table-spoonful  of  pulverized  alum 
sprinkled  into  a  hogshead  of  water  (the  water 
stirred  at  the  same  time)  will,  after  a  few 
hours,  by  precipitating  to  the  bottom  the  im- 
pure particles,  so  purify  it  that  it  will  be 
found  to  possess  nearly  all  the  freshness  and 
clearness  of  the  finest  spring- water.  A  pail- 
ful, containing  4  gallons,  may  be  purified  by  a 
single  tea-spoonful  of  the  alum. 

1711.  To  Test  the  Impurity  of  the 
Atmosphere.  A  simple  method  of  ascer- 
taining the  presence  of  impurity  (carbonic 
acid)  in  the  atmosphere,  is  to  nearly  fill  a  glass 
tumbler  with  lime-water,  and  to  place  it  in 
any  convenient  position,  as  on  the  mantel- 
piece of  a  room.  The  rapidity  with  which  a 
pellicle  forms  on  its  surface,  or  the  water  be- 
comes cloudy,  corresponds  to  the  amount  of 
the  carbonic  acid  present  in  the  atmosphere 
that  surrounds  it.  A  little  moist  carbonate  of 
lead  put  on  a  plate  or  saucer,  and  exposed  in 
the  same  way,  will  turn  black,  should  any 
sulphuretted  hydrogen  be  contained  in  the  air. 
This  is  a  delicate  test  for  that  destructive  gas. 


1712.  To  Purify  Water  in  a  Cistern. 

2  ounces  of  permanganate  of  potassa  thrown 
in  a  cistern  will  render  the  foulest  water  sweet 
and  pure.  (See  No.  1701.) 

1713.  To  Purify  Dirty  Water.     Since, 
in  dry  seasons,  any  water  may  be  of  high 
value,  at  least  for  cattle  drinking,  M.  Meunier 
advises  to  place,  in  a  large-sized  cask,  a  false 
bottom  perforated  with  some  holes ;  and  to ' 
put  on  that  bottom,  first,  clean  pebbles,  next, 
well  washed  sand,  then  a  layer  of  coarsely 
granulated  charcoal,  and  over  all  this  a  piece 
of  canvas.     The  water,  even  that  standing  in 
shallow  ditches  after  a  shower  of  rain,  may  bo 
poured  into  this  filter,  and  thus  become  avail- 
able for  cattle-drinking,  though  it  may  not  be 
quite  clear. 


TD  leaching.     Tinder  this  head  are 

"  *  included  general  receipts  for  bleaching 
and  decolorizing.  The  methods  employed 
for  special  purposes,  such  as  bleaching  fabrics 
for  dyeing,  removing  stains,  &c.,  will  be  found 
in  their  proper  places  by  reference  to  the  in- 
dex. 

171 5.  To  Bleach  Cotton  Pure  White. 
Boil  for  3  hours  in  water  containing  1  gill 
to  the  gallon  of  either  caustic  potassa  or  caus- 
tic soda ;  wash  well  from  the  lye,  then  lay 
the  yarn  or  fabric  to  steep  for  4  or  5  hours  in 
cold  water  containing  1  pint   of  bleaching 
liquor  (see  No.  104)  to  the  gallon;  then  lift 
out  and  steep  for  an  hour  in  a  sour  of  1  wine- 
glassful  of   sulphuric  acid  to  the  gallon  of 
water;  lift,  and  wash  well;    then  boil  for  2 
hours  in  a  caustic  lye,  half  the  strength  of  the 
first ;   wash  from  this,  and  steep  again  for  4 
hours  in  the  bleaching  liquor ;  wash  from  this 
and  steep  again  for  1  hour  in  a  clean  sour, 
made  in  the  same  manner  as  the  first;  wash 
well  from  this,  and  dry.     A  little  smalt  blue 
is  put  into  the  last  washing  water  to  clear 
the  white. 

1716.  To  Bleach  Wool.     The  first  kind 
of  bleaching  to  which  wool  is  subjected,  is  to 
free  it  from  grease.      This  operation  is  called 
scouring.      In  manufactories,  it  is  generally 
performed  by  an  ammoniacal  lye,  formed  of 
5  measures  of  river  water  and  1  of  stale  urine ; 
the  wool  is  immersed  for  about  20  minutes  in 
a  bath  of  this  mixture  heated  to  about  130° 
Fahr;  it  is  then  taken  out,  suffered  to  drain, 
and  rinsed  in  running  water.    This  manipula- 
tion softens  the  wool,  and  gives  it  the  first 
degree  of  whiteness.      It  is  then  repeated  a 
second,  and  even  a  third  time ;    after  which 
the  wool  is  fit  to  be  employed.     In  some 
places,   scouring   is   performed    with   water 
slightly  impregnated  with  soap ;    and  indeed, 
for  valuable  articles,  this  process  is  preferable; 
but  it  is  too  expensive  for  articles  of  less 
value.      Bisulphide  of  carbon  and  benzine 
aave  been  employed  in  cleansing  wool.     The 
'at  may  be  saved  by  distilling  off  the  solvent, 
which  may  be  used    over  and    over  again. 
(See  No.  439.)     Sulphurous  acid  gas  unites 
very  easily  with  water ;  and  in  this  combina- 
tion it  may  be  employed  for  bleaching  wool 
and  silk. 

1717.  Sulphuration.     The  process  by 
which  silk,  cotton,  woolen,  and  straw  goods, 


176 


BLEACHING. 


&c.,  are  bleached  or  decolored  by  exposure  t 
the  fumes  of  burning  sulphur.  This  is  effectei 
in  a  close  chamber  of  a  size  proportioned  to  th 
scale  on  which  the  operation  is  conducted 
and  supplied  with  only  just  sufficient  air  t( 
keep  up  the  slow  combustion  of  the  sulphur 
the  fumes  of  which  are  sulphurous  acid 
(See  Nos.  360  and  364.) 

1718.  To  Prepare  Sulphurous  Acic 
for  Bleaching.  Sulphurous  acid  is  used 
either  as  gas  or  in  solution  in  water,  which 
dissolves  50  times  its  volume  of  the  gas.  In 
the  former  case  sulphur  is  burned  in  a  close 
room  in  which  the  stuffs  (moistened)  ar< 
hung;  for  small  articles  a  barrel  with  a  lid 
answers  well.  2  exposures,  of  24  hours  each 
suffice  for  wool.  (See  No.  360.)  To  get 
solution  of  sulphurous  acid,  the  cheapest  anc 
best  plan  is  to  heat  in  a  glass  retort  12  ounces 
sulphuric  acid  and  2  ounces  sulphur.  The 
gas,  which  comes  off  quietly,  is  collected  in 
a  large  glass  bottle  partially  filled  with  water 
or,  better,  a  series  of  bottles  so  connected 
together  that  the  gas  must  pass  successively 
through  the  water  contained  in  each. 

1719.  A  New  Wash  for  Wool  and 
Silk.     Instead  of  using  the  fumes  of  sul- 
phur, M.  Frezon  proposes  the  following  mix- 
ture: 4  pounds  oxalic  acid,  4  pounds  table 
salt,  200  quarts  water.    The  goods  are  laid  in 
this  mixture  for  an  hour.    They  are  then  gen- 
erally well  bleached,  and  only  require  to  be 
thoroughly  rinsed  and  washed.      For  bleach- 
ing straw  it  is  best  to  soak  the  goods  in  caus- 
tic soda  and  afterwards  to  make  use  of  chlor- 
ide of  lime  or  Javelle  water.     (See  Index.) 
The  excess  of  chlorine  is  afterwards  to  be  re- 
moved by  hyposulphite  of  soda,  called  anti- 
chlor. 

1720.  To   Bleach    Straw    Bonnets. 
Get  a  deep  box,  air-tight,  if  possible ;   place 
at  the   bottom  a   stone,  on  the  stone  a  flat 
piece  of  iron  red  hot,  or  a  pan  of  charcoal, 
on     which     scatter     powdered     brimstone; 
close    the  lid,    and    let  the  bonnet   remain 
a  night.      There    should  be  hooks    on    the 
box,  on  which  to  hang  the  bonnets.     (See  last 
receipt.) 

1721.  To   Bleach    Sponge.      Sponge 
may  be  bleached  almost  snow-white  by  repe- 
titions of  the  following  process :    Soak  it  in 
diluted  muriatic  acid  10  or  12  hours,  then  wash 
it  with  water  and  immerse  in  a  solution  of 
hyposulphate  of  soda  to  which  a  small  quan- 
tity of  diluted  muriatic  acid  has  been  added. 
"Wash  and  dry  it. 

1722.  Blanched   Sponge.      Soak   the 
sponges  for  several  days  in  cold  water,  renew- 
ing the  water  and  squeezing  the  sponges  occa- 
sionally.     Then  wash  them  in  warm  water, 
and  place  them  in  cold  water  to  which  a  little 
muriatic  acid  has  been  added.    Next  day  take 
them  out  and  wash  them  thoroughly  in  soft 
water;    then   immerse  them  in  an  aqueous 
sulphurous  acid  (specific  gravity  1.034)  for  a 
week.    They  are  afterwards  washed  in  plenty 
of  water,  squeezed,  and  allowed  to  dry  in  the 
air. 

1723.  To  Bleach  Lac.     Dissolve  the 
lac  in  a  boiling  lye  of  pearlash  or  caustic  pot- 
ash, filter  it  and  pass  chlorine  through  the 
solution  until  all  the  lac  is  precipitated.    Col- 
lect the  precipitate,  wash  well  in  hot  water, 
and  finally  twist  into  sticks,  and  throw  them 


into  cold  water  to  harden.  Lac  thus  purified 
is  used  to  make  pale  varnishes  and  the  more 
delicate  tints  of  colored  sealing-wax.  Shel- 
lac bleached  by  this  method  is  liable  to  stain 
furniture  inlaid  with  brass.  The  following 
process  is  free  from  this  objection,  and  has 
the  additional  advantage  of  being  much 
cheaper: 

1724.  To  Bleach  Shellac  with  Ani- 
mal Charcoal  Any  quantity  of  yellow  shel- 
lac, previously  broken  in  small  pieces,  is  con- 
veyed into  a  flask,  alcohol  of  .830  specific  grav- 
ity poured  upon  it,  and  the  whole  heated  on 
a  stove,  or,  in  the  summer,  in  the  suri,  until 
the  shellac  is  dissolved;  upon  this  so  much 
coarsely  powdered  animal  charcoal  is  added 
to  the  solution  that  the  whole  forms  a  thin 
paste ;  the  flask  is  closed,  not  quite  air-tight, 
and  left  so  for  some  time  exposed  to  the  sun; 
and  in  8  to  14  days  a  small  sample  is  filtered, 
sufficient  to  ascertain  whether  it  has  ac- 
quired a  light  yellowish  brown  color,  and 
whether  it  yields  a  clear,  pure  polish,  on  light 
colored  woods.  If  this  be  the  case,  it  is  fil- 
tered through  coarse  blotting  paper,  for  which 
purpose  it  is  best  to  employ  a  tin  funnel  with 
double  sides,  similar  to  those  employed  in 
filtering  spirituous  solutions  of  soaps,  opodel- 
doc, &c.  The  portion  which  first  passes 
through  the  filter  may  be  preserved  separate- 
ly, and  used  as  a  ground  or  first  polish. 
Then  some  more  spirit  is  poured  over  the 
charcoal  upon  the  filter,  and  the  solution 
used  as  a  last  coating.  The  solution  of  shel- 
lac purified  by  animal  charcoal  has  a  brown 
yellow  color,  but  it  is  perfectly  clear  and 
transparent;  when  diluted  with  alcohol,  the 
color  is  so  slight  that  it  may  be  used  in  this 
state  for  polishing  perfectly  white  wood,  such 
as  maple,  pine,  &c.,  without  the  wood  acquir- 
"ng  the  least  tint  of  yellow. 

1725.  To  Bleach  Gutta  Percha.    Dis- 
solve 1  part  gutta  percha  in  20  parts  hot  ben- 
zole, shake  the  solution  with  -fa  part  freshly 
calcined  plaster,  and  set  aside,  with  occasional 
agitation,  for  2  days.    The  clear  pale  brownish- 

•ellow  liquid  is  then  decanted  into  another 
essel  containing  double  its  bulk  of  alcohol 
brtius  (see  No.  1439),  when  the  gutta  percha 
will  be  precipitated  in  the  form  of  a  brilliantly 
white  tenacious  mass,  which  is  pounded  to- 
gether in  a  mortar,  and  rolled  into  cylindrical 
iticks. 

1726.  Bleaching  Woolen  Bags.   These 
i,re  most  effectually  bleached  by  the  applica- 
ion  of  sulphurous  acid.     Of  course,  in  many 
nstances,  the  color  of  the  rags,  supposing  the 
ame  to  be  dyed  or  printed  goods,  will  be  also 
lestroyed.    Chlorine  cannot  be  used  for  this 
jurpose,  because  it  causes  woolen  and  silk 
abrics  to  become  yellow,  and  impairs  the 
trength  of  the  fibre,  by  entering  into  chemi- 
al  combination  with  the  wool,  silk,  and  other 
imilar  substances  of  animal  origin;   as,  for 
n  stance,  sponge,  animal  gut,  isinglass,  <fec., 
11   of  which,    if    requiring    bleaching,    are 
leached  by  sulphurous 'acid. 

1727.  New   Method   of    Bleaching 
Teathers.     This  process  is  an  entirely  new- 
y-discovered  one,  whereby  the  feathers  of 
istriches  and  other  birds  may  be  bleached, 
iven  if  these  feathers  are  naturally  black  or 
ark  gray  colored.     The  feathers  are  placed 
or  from  3  to  4  hours  in  a  tepid  dilute  solution 


VINEGAR. 


of  bichromate  of  potassa,  to  which,  cautiously, 
some  nitric  acid  has  been  added.  After  this 
lapse  of  time  the  feathers  will  be  found  to 
have  assumed  a  greenish  hue,  owing  to  the 
oxide  of  chromium  precipitated  on  the  sub- 
stance ;  in  order  to  remove  this,  the  feathers 
are  placed  in  a  dilute  solution  of  sulphurous 
acid  in  water,  whereby  the  feathers  become 
perfectly  white  and  bleached.  Care  is  to  be 
taken  that  the  solution  of  bichromate  be  not 
made  too  strong,  and  especially  that  not  too 
much  nitric  acid  be  used,  which  would  cause 
an  irremovable  yellow  color. 

1728.  Table  Showing;  the  Number  of 
Parts  of  a  Weak  Bleaching  Liquor,  Re- 
quired to  be  added  to  1  Part  Bleaching 
Liquor  of  6°  Twaddell,  to  Produce  a 
Liquor  of  a  given  Strength.  According 
to  Mr.  Crum,  the  strength  of  liquor  for  bleach- 
ing cotton  should  be  less  than  1°  Twaddell ; 
the  following  table  enables  an  operator  to  in- 
crease the  strength  of  a  weak  bleaching  liquor 
with  a  great  degree  of  accuracy.  The  left 
hand  column  gives  the  strength  of  the  weak 
kquor,  expressed  in  -fa  parts  of  1°.  At  the 
head  of  the  other  columns  stands  the  degree 
of  strength  required,  and  under  these  headings 
will  be  found  the  number  of  parts  of  weak 
liquor  required  to  be  added  to  1  part  of  a 
liquor  of  6°  Twaddell,  to  produce  the  required 
strength  of  the  mixture.  (See  No.  68.) 


Strength  of 
Sample. 

Strength  Required. 

A° 

A° 

A° 

^ 

Water. 

8  parts 

11  parts 

17  parts 
23    " 

23  parts 
35    " 

A 

11    " 

17    " 

35    " 

71    " 

& 

13|  " 

23    " 

71    " 

A 

17    " 

35    " 

A 

23    " 

71     " 

A 

35    " 

A 

71    " 

1729.  Properties  of  Charcoal.     This 

article,  when  fresh,  possesses  the  property  of 
taking  lime  and  other  saline  matter  from 
syrups  and  other  aqueous  solutions,  especially 
organic  ones,  at  the  same  time  that  it  decolors 
them.  As  a  decolorizer  and  deodorizer,  ani- 
mal charcoal  (prepared  from  bones)  is  vastly 
superior  to  vegetable  charcoal.  Charcoal 
should  be  fresh  burnt  and  fresh  powdered  and 
preserved  from  contact  with  the  air.  Unless 
these  precautions  be  observed  it  rapidly  loses 
its  valuable -qualities.  (See  No.  1752.) 

1730.  Aluminized  Charcoal.     This  is 
recommended  by  Dr.  Stenhouse  as  a  cheap 
and  very  efficient  decolorizing  agent.     Dis- 
solve  in  water  54  parts  of  the  sulphate  of 
alumina  of  commerce,  and  mix  with  92J  parts 
finely   powdered  wood  charcoal.     When  the 
charcoal  is  saturated,  evaporate  to«dryness, 
and  heat  to  redness  in  covered  Hessian  cruci- 
bles till   the  water  and  acid  are  dissipated. 
The  charcoal  contains  just  7  5  per  cent,  of 
anhydrous  alumina. 

1731.  Charcoal  from  Coal-Tar.     Heat 
gently  in   an  iron  pot  till  it  melts,  1  pound 
coal-tar  pitch.     Add  2  pounds  fluid  coal-tar, 


and  mix.  Stir  in  7  pounds  hydrate  of  lime  in 
very  fine  powder.  The  thick  mass  is  now 
roasted,  stirring  all  the  time  till  it  is  reduced 
to  a  fine  powder.  It  is  then  ignited  in  a 
covered  crucible  till  all  the  vegetable  matter 
is  carbonized.  The  charcoal,  when  cold,  is 
digested  with  dilute  hydrochloric  acid,  and 
finally  washed  with  water  in  a  filter,  and 
dried.  Dr.  Stenhouse  recommends  this  as  an 
admirable  form  for  decolorization.  For  such 
liquids  as  decoction  of  logwood  it  is  four  times 
as  efficient  as  animal  charcoal. 


Vlliegar.  Yinegar  is  dilute  acetic 
acid  more  or  less  mixed  with  gum, 
sugar,  and  other  vegetable  matter.  It  can  be 
made  from  any  liquid  which  is  susceptible  of 
the  vinous  fermentation.  In  this  country  it 
is  made  chiefly  from  cider  and  alcoholic  li- 
quors; in  England,  from  malt  liquors  and 
molasses;  in  wine  growing  countries,  from 
inferior  or  damaged  wine.  The  cultivation  of 
the  vine  is  gradually  gaining  importance  in 
this  country,  and  it  seems  more  than  probable 
that,  at  no  distant  time,  vinegar  will  be  made 
here  largely  from  wine. 

1733.  To  Make  Vinegar  by  the  Ger- 
man, or  Quick  Method.     Many  methods 
have  been  invented  to  produce  vinegar ;  but 
that  known  as  the  "German,  or  quick  method," 
has  superseded  all  others,  and  is  now  in  gen- 
eral use  in  the  United  States.    By  this  pro- 
cess (which  is  very  simple)  tune  and  labor 
are  both  greatly  abridged,  and  a  very  fine  ar- 
ticle is  produced.     The  method  will  be  found 
embodied  in  the  five  following  receipts : 

1734.  How  to  Make  a  Vinegar  Gen- 
erator.    The  construction  of  a  vinegar  gene- 
rator is  very  simple.    A  is  a  tub,  8  feet  in 
height,  3  feet  in  diameter  at  the  bottom,  and 
3i  feet  in  diameter  at  the  top,  with  a  cover, 
E,  of  which  one  part,  G,  is  movable,  in  order 
to  permit  the  liquid  to  be  poured  in  when  ne- 
cessary.   B  is  a  shelf  or  false  bottom  perforated 
with  a  number  of  holes  £  of  an  inch  in  dia- 
meter, placed  about  8  inches  from  the  top  of 
the  generator,  at  which  place  a  stout  hoop 
must  be  nailed  to  support  it.    When  this  false 
bottom  is  placed  in  the  generator,  it  should 
be  packed  carefully  on  the  sides  with  cotton 
batting,  so  as  to  prevent  the  liquid  from  es- 
caping at  any  place  except  through  the  holes. 
The  shelf  or  false  bottom  has  also  four  J  inch 
holes,  in  which  are  inserted  4  open  reed  tubes 
as  air  vents,  each  having  its  ends  projecting 
above  and  below  the  shelf,  the  upper  ends 
projecting  at  least  li  inches  below  the  top 
cover,  E,  and  the  other  ends  penetrating  the 
contents  of  the  generator.     0  C  is  a  horizontal 
row  of  holes  at  about  18  inches  from  the  bot- 
tom of  the  generator,  equidistant,  and  -J  an 
inch  in  diameter,  bored  in  about  every  other 
stave,  and  in  a  vertical  or  slanting  direction 
from  the  outside  downward  inside.     There  is 
also  a  hole  for  the  insertion  of  the  thermome- 
ter, 6  inches  below  the  false  top ;  this  hole 
should  slant  from  the  outside,  downward  in- 
side.    The  holes  are  bored  in  this  manner  to 
prevent  the  vinegar  from  running  out.    It  is 
essential  to  the  success  of  the  process  that  a 
current  of  air  should  pass  through  the  tub. 


178 


VINEGAE. 


In  order  to  establish  this  circulation,  the 
above  holes  are  made,  and  the  air  enters  by 
them,  and  passes  out  through  the  tubes  in  the 


false  bottom  above.  Some  parties  insert  a 
perforated  false  bottom  about  2  inches  below 
the  slanting  ventila- 
tion-holes, to  support 
the  shavings,  leaving 
the  portion  of  the  tub 
below  free ;  others 

E refer  a  similar  false 
ottom  about  2  inch- 
es above  the  holes,  in 
order  to  prevent  the 
shavings  from  coming 
in  contact  with  the 
holes  and  obstructing 
the  ventilation.  D  is  a  stop-cock,  or  faucet, 
6  inches  from  the  bottom  of  the  generator, 
the  discharging  capacity  of  which  must  be 
controlled  by  the  size  of  the  generator.  Never 
draw  off  the  vinegar  below  this  faucet. 

1735.  How  to  Pack  a  Vinegar  Gene- 
rator. Having  made  the  generator,  the  next 
part  of  the  process  of  making  vinegar  consists 
in  packing  or  charging  it ;  this  is  done  in  the 
following  manner:  Take  pieces  of  beech 
board  about  18  inches  in  length  (maple  or 
basswood  boards  will  do,  but  not  as  well  as 
beech),  and  plane  thick,  heavy  shavings  from 
the  edge ;  the  shavings  should  curl  and  roll 
up,  or  they  must  be  rolled  up  and  tied.  Next 
cut  clean  corn-cobs  into  pieces  1  i  or  2  inches 
long.  The  shavings  and  corn-cobs  must  be 
thoroughly  soaked  in  water ;  or,  what  is  still 
better,  boiled  in  vinegar.  Fill  the  tub  half 
full  with  the  corn-cobs,  and  let  the  cobs  re- 
main in  the  tub  just  as  they  are  thrown  there, 
without  further  arrangement.  Then  fill  up 
the  balance  of  the  generator  with  the  beech 
shavings  and  arrange  them  so  that  those 
which  touch  the  upper  false  bottom  are  more 
strongly  pressed  than  the  rest,  as  the  degree 
of  pressure  should  increase  as  you  pack  from 
the  bottom  to  the  top  of  the  generator.  The 
generator  being  filled,  the  false  bottom  must 
be  fitted  in  and  rest  level  upon  the  shavings, 
and  great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  have  the 
air-tubes  stopped  up,  or  the  cobs  packed  too 
solid  in  the  vicinity  of  the  slanting  holes. 
The  shavings  or  cobs  may  be  loosened  at  the 
thermometer  and  ventilating-holes,  by  means 
of  a  stick  thrust  therein.  The  generator  may 


I  also  be  entirely  packed  with  beech  shavings 
I  or  entirely  with  cobs ;  the  latter,  however,  are 
inferior,  as  they  soon  rot  and  become  worth- 
less. Beech  chips  are  preferred  to  shavings 
by  some  vinegar  manufacturers. 

1736.  Mode  of  Acetifying  Shavings. 
The  next  step  in  the  process  of  manufactur- 
ing vinegar  consists  in  acetifying  the  shavings 
and  cobs;  and  this  is  accomplished  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:    Preserre  a   temperature  of 
between  75°  and  85°  Fahr.,  and  pour  over  the 
shavings  and  cobs,  every  hour,  a  mixture  of  2 
gallons  vinegar  and  J  gallon  common  whiskey 
(this  liquid  should  first  be  heated,  to  hasten 
fermentation),  until  there  are  10  gallons  in  the 
generator  above  the  faucet,   but  not  more. 
Muspratt  recommends  a  standard  liquor,  both 
for  the  acetificatiou  of  the  shavings  and  for 
generating  of  vinegar.    It  consists  of  GO  gal- 
lons 60  per  cent,  whiskey,  and  37  gallons  beer 
or  malt  wort.     A  mixture  of  5  gallons  of  the 
above  mixtures  with  40  or  50  of  weak  vinegar, 
acetifies  still  quicker  than  the  standard  mix- 
ture used  alone.     Draw  off  from  the  generator 
every  hour  2  gallons,  and  add  it  again  at  the 
top;    continue  this   until    the    fermentation 
commences ;  this  usually  begins  at  the  top  of 
the  generator  in  the  course  of  4  or  5  days. 
The  contact  of  the  air  with  the  minutely  di- 
vided liquid  promotes  the  acetification,  which 
consists  essentially  in  the  oxidation  of  the 
alcohol.    As  the  oxygen  is  absorbed,  the  tem- 
perature of  the  liquor  rises  to  100°  or  105°, 
and    when   the   thermometer   indicates  that 
temperature  when  placed  through  the  opening 
in  the  cover,  the  generator  is  ready,  and  in 
proper  condition  for  the  manufacturer.    Pay 
special  attention  to  the  fermentation,  for  that 
is  the  principal  point  to  be  observed.    It  is 
scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  the  vinegar 
used  for  acetifying  the  shavings  should  be 
pure,  or  at  all  events  free  from  the  mineral 
acids.    It  is  well  known  that  essential  oils,  or 
a  mere  trace  of  wood- vinegar,  arrest  acetifi- 
cation; consequently  the  vinegar  must  also 
be  free  from  pyroligneous  acid.    After  the 
acetification  occurs,  proceed  as  follows : 

1737.  Mode  of  Manufacturing  Vine- 
gar.    Keep  the  vinegar  room  at  a  temperature 
of  from  75°  to  85°  Fahr.,  and  maintain  the 
temperature  of  the  generators  at  95°  to  100°. 
Then  make  up  a  mixture  or  wash  composed  of 
the  following  ingredients :  3  gallons  common 
whiskey;  4  gallons  manufactured  vinegar;  33 
gallons  pure  water.    Muspratt  uses  15  or  20 
gallons  of  his  standard  liquor  (see  last  receipt), 
diluted  with  GO  gallons  soft  water.     The  water, 
if  not  clear,  must  be  filtered  through  charcoal. 
Draw  off'  every  hour  4  gallons  of  vinegar  from 
each  generator,  and  pour  in  at  the  top  4  gallons 
of  the  above  wash,  with  an  additional  quart  for 
waste  in  manufacturing ;  and  pour  the  vinegar 
into  another  generator  as  soon  as  it  is  drawn. 
Vinegar  is  thus  made  by  being  passed  only 
once  or  twice  through  the  shavings,  according 
to  the  quality  and  degree  of  strength  required. 
Keep  a  large  tank  to  'hold  the  vinegar  when 
made,  aiad  put  k  gallon  of  molasses  into  it 
every  day  until  you  get  a  bed  2  or  3  inches 
thick.     The  molasses  will  improve  the  vine- 
gar and    give  it  a  fine   color.     This  is   the 
quickest  process  which  has  yet  been  obtained 
for  manufacturing  large  quantities,  and   the 
vinegar  made  in  this  way  finds  ready  sale. 


VINEGAR. 


179 


1 738.    Useful  Hints  to  Those  Making 
Vinegar   by  the  Quick   Method.      The 

success  of  the  whole  process  of  making  vine- 
gar by  the  German,  or  quick  method,  depends 
almost  entirely  upon  the  free  circulation  of 
air  throughout  the  generator.  It  sometimes 
happens  that  the  vinegar,  when  it  comes  from 
the  generator,  is  not  perfectly  clear  and  trans- 
parent; to  remedy  this,  some  manufacturers 
"  use  two  false  bottoms  to  each  generator,  and 
have  a  bed  of  white  sand,  15  inches  deep, 
upon  the  lower  one.  The  sand  will  have  to 
be  packed  in  before  the  chips  are,  as  follows : 
First  cover  the  false  bottom  with  flannel,  to 
prevent  the  sand  from  coming  through  the 
holes,  then  put  in  a  layer  of  sand  5  inches 
deep,  cover  this  with  two  thicknesses  of  flan- 
nel, and  then  another  layer  of  sand;  repeat 
this  again,  and  then  pack  in  the  chips  as  al- 
ready directed.  This  will  produce  an  article 
of  a  fine  color,  and  will  pass  for  a  fine  wine- 
vinegar  if  colored.  Persons  who  are  skeptical 
about  this  way  of  making  vinegar  may  test  it 
at  a  trifling  expense  on  a  small  scale  by 
experimenting  with  a  keg  arranged  on  the 
same  principle  as  the  generators.  Those  who 
desire  to  go  into  the  business  extensively,  can 
have  a  series  of  generators.  They  may  be 
arranged  one  above  the  other,  and  connected 
from  floor  to  floor  by  gutta  percha  tubes,  and 
thus  vinegar  may  be  made  by  passing  once 
through  three  generators,  instead  of  two  or 
three  times  through  one  generator. 

1739.  To    Make    Vinegar   Quickly. 
Take  a  cask  or  hogshead  with  the  head  out, 
and  a  faucet  near  the  bottom ;  fill  it  with  beech 
shavings  prepared  as  in  No.  1735 ;  or,  instead 
of  shavings,  the  casks  may  be  filled  with  corn- 
cobs or  beech  chips ;  over  these  lay  a  coffee 
sack,  and  cover  it  with  fine  shavings,  to  keep 
the  heat  in.     Next  throw  some  good  vinegar 
on  the  shavings,  and  let  it  soak  in  for  a  few 
hours ;    then  draw  it  off  through  the  faucet 
and  throw  it  on  to  the  shavings  again,  repeat- 
ing this  until  the   shavings  are  thoroughly 
soured,  and  adding  each  time  1  quart  of  high 
wiues  to  the  vinegar  before  throwing  it  back 
on  the  shavings ;  this   addition  prevents  the 
vinegar  from  becoming  flat  by  the  absorption 
of  the  acid  by  the  shavings.     Then  mix  1  gal- 
lon 90  per  cent,  high  wines,  and  1  quart  mo- 
lasses, with  14  gallons  river  water ;   pour  it 
upon  the  shavings  ;  draw  it  oft'  and  put  it  on 
the  shavings  again  2  or  3  times  a  day  until 
sour.     By  usin»  several  casks,  sufficient  vine- 
gar may  be  made  at  a  time  to  put  into  barrels. 
Sour  ale,  or  the  rinsings  of  sugar  hogsheads, 
may  be  poured  on  the  shavings  and  turned 
into  good  vinegar  in  this  way.     It  is  better 
for  the  fluid  to  be  weak  at  first,  adding  the 
molasses  or  other  material  being  converted  in- 
to vinegar,  by  degrees  during  the  successive 
drawings.        By    following     this    plan,    the 
strength  of   the   vinegar   may  be  gradually 
increased  to  almost  any  degree. 

1740.  To  Make  Good  Cider  Vinegar. 
Take   10   gallons  apple  juice  fresh  from   the 
press,  and   suffer  it  to   ferment  fully,  which 
may  be   in  about  2  weeks,  or  sooner  if  the 
•weather  is  warm ;  and  then  add  8  gallons  like 
juice,  new,  for  producing  a  second  fermenta- 
tion ;  in  2  weeks  more  add  another  like  new 
quantity,  for  producing  a  third  fermentation. 
This  third  fermentation  is  material.      Now 


stop  the  bunghole  with  an  empty  bottle,  with 
the  neck  downward,  and  expose  it  to  the  sun 
for  some  time.  When  the  vinegar  is  come, 
draw  off  one-half  into  a  vinegar  cask,  and  set 
it  in  a  cool  place  above  ground,  for  use  when 
clear.  "With  the  other  half  in  the  first  cask, 
proceed  to  make  more  vinegar  in  the  same 
•way.  Thus  one  cask  is  to  make  in,  the  other 
to  use  from.  When  making  the  vinegar,  let 
there  be  a  moderate  degree  of  heat,  and  free 
access  of  external  air.  The  process  is  hasten- 
ed by  adding  to  the  cider,  when  you  have  it, 
a  quantity  of  the  mother  of  vinegar,  as  it  is 
called — a  whitish,  ropy  coagulum,  of  a  muci- 
laginous appearance,  which  is  formed  in  the 
vinegar  and  acts  as  a  ferment.  The  strength 
of  vinegar  depends  on  the  amount  of  sugar  or 
starchy  matter  to  be  utimately  converted  into 
acetic  acid. 

1741.  To   Make   Alcohol   Vinegar. 
The  following  is  the  German  method  of  ma- 
king acetic  acid,  and  is  excellent  and  simple  : 
In  a  bell    glass  or  tall  glass  case,  arrange 
shelves  a  few  inches  apart,  one  above  another, 
on  which  place  small  flat  dishes  of  earthen- 
ware or  wood ;  then  fill  these  dishes  with  alco- 
hol, and  suspend  over  each,  in  small  trays  or 
capsules,  a  portion  of  the  black  powder  of 
platina  (see  Platinum-Black) ;  hang  strips  of 
porous  paper  in  the  case,  with  their  bottom 
edges  immersed  in  the  spirit  to  promote  evap- 
oration.   Set  the  apparatus  in  a  light  place  at 
a  temperature  of  from  68°  to  86°  Fahr.,  for 
which  purpose  the  sunshine  will  be  found 
convenient.     In  a  short  time  the  formation  of 
vinegar  will  commence,  and  the  condensed 
acid  vapors  will  be  seen  trickling  down  the 
sides  of  the  glass,  and  collecting  at  the  bot- 
tom, whence  it  may  be  removed  once  or  twice 
a  day.     "We  shall  find  that  during  this  process, 
produced  by  the  mutual  action  of  the  platina 
and  the  vapor  of  alcohol,  there  will  be  an  in- 
crease of  temperature,  which  will  continue  till 
all  the  oxygen  contained  in  the  air  enclosed  in 
the  case  is  consumed,  when  the  acetification 
will  stop ;  the  case  must  then  be  opened  for  a 
short  time,  to  admit  of  a  fresh  supply  of  air, , 
when  the  operation  will  commence  again. 

1742.  Artus'  Process  for  the  Manu- 
facture of  Vinegar.     Dr.  Artus  has  dis- 
covered a  process  for  making  vinegar  from 
alcohol,  which  he  says  has  proved  entirely 
satisfactory.     There  is  a  very  general  com- 
plaint that  the  oxidation  of  spirits  of  wine  in 
the  vinegar  process  is  far  from  complete,  and 
that  the  results  are  not  equal  either  in  quality 
or  quantity  to  what  ought  to  be  expected  from 
the  materials  employed.     His  plan  is  as  fol-  j 
lows :   Take  h  ounce  dry   bichloride   of  pla- 
tinum, and  dissolve  it  in  5  pounds  alcohol; 
with  this  liquid  moisten  3  pounds  wood  char- 
coal broken  in  pieces  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut ; 
heat  these  in  a  covered  crucible,  and  after- 
wards put  them  in  the  bottom  of  a  vinegar 
vat.    Here  the  platinum  in  its  finely  divided 
spongy   state    absorbs   and   condenses    large 
quantities  of  oxygen  from  the  air,  by  which 
alcohol  is  rapidly  oxidized.     When  the  char- 
coal has  been  in  use  for  5  weeks  it  should  be 
again  heated  in  a  covered  crucible. 

1743.  To  Improve  Alcohol  Vinegar. 
Vinegar  made  from  pure  alcohol  and  water 
does  not  possess  the  flavor  of  wine  or  cider 
vinegar,  and  is  therefore  inferior  to  them  for 


180 


VIXE&AE. 


table  use ;  but  a  little  acetic  ether  added  to  it 
renders  it  agreeable.  Eaw  spirits  containing 
some  fusel  oil  produce  a  more  pleasantly 
flavored  vinegar  than  refined  spirits ;  hence 
a  few  drops  of  fusel  oil  added  to  rectified 
spirits,  in  making  the  wash  for  vinegar,  im- 
proves its  aroma.  A  little  oil  of  cloves  or 
butyric  ether  added  in  the  same  manner  im- 
proves its  flavor.  A  very  small  quantity  of 
cider  vinegar  gives  a  large  quantity  of  whiskey 
vinegar  a  pleasant  flavor.  An  infusion  of 
chicory  is  sometimes  added  to  high  wine  vine- 
gar, to  give  it  the  color  of  cider  vinegar. 

1 744.  To  Keep  Up  a  Constant  Supply 
of  Cheap  Vinegar.     A  supply  of  vinegar 
can  be  kept  constantly  on  hand  by  retailers  in 
the  following  manner:  Before  a  barrel  is  quite 
sold  out,  fill  up  the  barrel  with  1  gallon  mo- 
lasses to  every  11  gallons  soft  water.    This 
mixture  will  become  good  vinegar  in  about  3 
weeks — and  can  be  treated  in  its  turn  in  the 
same  way.    "VThere  less  than  a  barrel  a  week 
is  used,  3  barrels  thus  treated  and  used  in  ro- 
tation, will  be  sufficient  to  keep  up  a  perpetual 
supply.     If  the  barrels  stand  on  end,  there 
must  be  a  hole  made  in  the  top,  protected 
with  gauze  to  keep  out,  insects.    If  standing 
on  the  side,  the  bunghole  must  be  left  open 
and  similarly  protected. 

1745.  To   Make   Vinegar   in   Three 
Weeks.     Mix  in  the  following  proportions : 
1   quart  molasses,  1  pint  yeast  to  3  gallons 
warm  rain  water.     Put  the  mixture  into  a  keg 
or  barrel  with  the  bunghole  open,  but  protect- 
ed with  gauze  against  insects. 

1746.  '  Distilled  Vinegar.     Put  1  gal- 
lon vinegar  in  a  retort ;  and  distill  by  a  sand- 
bath,  7  pints.     This  should  produce  a  vinegar 
of  specific  gravity  1.0065.     The  use  of  a  lead 
or  pewter  worm  must  be  avoided,  as  it  renders 
the  product  cloudy  and  poisonous. 

1747.  To  Make  Vinegar  from  Sugar. 
An  excellent  domestic  vinegar  may  be  made 
by  dissolving  1J  pounds  sugar  to  each  gallon 
water  used,  with  J  pint  good  yeast.     If  the 
heat  of  the  mixture  be  maintained  at  70°  to 
80°  Fahr.,  acetification  will  set  in,  so  that  in  2  or 
3  days  it  may  be  racked  off  from  the  sediment 
into  a  cask ;  it  then  receives  the  addition  of  1 
ounce  cream  of  tartar,  and  1  ounce  crushed 
raisins;    when  completely  free   from    sweet 
taste,  it  should  be  bottled  and  corked  closely. 
The  juice  of  currants,  gooseberries,  and  many 
other  fruits,  and  of  beets,  may  be  thus  made 
into  vinegar,  either  alone  or  in  combination 
with  syrup.     Vinegar  made  in  this  manner 
keeps  better  than  that  made  from  malt  liquors. 

1748.  Tests  for  Vinegar.    The  methods 
of  testing  the  strength  of  vinegar  are  given 
under  the  head  of  Acetimetry.     The  following 
tests  of  purity  will  be  found  useful: 

Paper  written  on  or  smeared  with  pure  vine- 

far,   is  not  charred  when   strongly   warmed 
efore  the  fire;  if  it  is,  the  vinegar  contains 
fully  2  per  cent,  of  sulphuric  acid. 

Dip  a  small  porcelain  capsule  or  china  cup 
into  a  solution  of  i  ounce  sugar  in  15  ounces 
•water,  and  then  heat  the  capsule  to  a  tempera- 
ture of  212°  Fahr.  A  drop  of  vinegar  let 
fall  on  it  will  not  be  materially  discolored  if 
pure;  it  will  turn  a  dark  brown  or  black,  if 
the  vinegar  contains  only  3^5  part  of  sulphuric 
acid;  the  presence  of  roW  of  sulphuric  acid 
will  cause  the  spot  to  turn  an  olive  green ;  a 


less  proportion  will  produce  a  pale  green  color. 

Chloride  of  barium  testifies  the  presence  of 
the  same  acid  by  forming  a  heavy  white  pre- 
cipitate; each  grain  of  this  precipitate,  after 
being  dried  and  'gently  ignited,  represents 
.344  grain  of  dry  sulphuric  acid;  and  if  the 
precipitate  from  1000  grains  of  vinegar  exceed 
2£  grains,  it  contains  an  undue  proportion  of 
sulphuric  acid. 

If  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  gives  a 
cloudy  white  precipitate,  hydrochloric  acid  is 
present. 

If,  after  the  addition  of  2  or  3  grains  carbon- 
ate of  potash,  and  evaporation  of  the  sample 
to  dryness,  the  residuum  deflagrates  when 
ignited,  the  sample  contains  nitric  acid. 

1749.  To  Strengthen  Weak  Vinegar. 
If  in  pickles,  turn  it  off,  heat  it  scalding  hot, 
put  it  in  the  pickles,  and  when  lukewarm, 
put  in  a  small  piece  of  alum  the  size  of  a 
filbert,  and  a  brown  paper  4  inches  square,  wet 
with  molasses.      If  it  does  not  grow  sharp  in 
2  weeks  it   is  past  recovery,  and  must  be 
thrown  away.      Or,  freeze  it  and  remove  the 
ice  which  forms  on  the  surface.      The  water 
of  the  vinegar  alone  freezes,  leaving  the  acetic 
acid  in  solution  in  the  remaining  water. 

1750.  To  Determine  the  Strength  of 
Vinegar.      The  hydrometer  is  not    to    be 
much  relied  on  in  testing  the  strength  of  vine- 
gar.     The  simplest  test  is  to  take  a  fragment 
of  fine  marble,  weigh  it  and  suspend  it  by  a 
thread  in  a  known  measure  of  vinegar  until  all 
action  ceases  and  the  liquid  has  no  longer  a 
sour  taste.      Take  out  the  marble,  wash  and 
dry  it,   and  note  the  loss  of  weight  it  has 
sustained.    &  of  this  is  real  (hydrated)  acetic 
acid.    An  ounce  of  good  vinegar  should  sat- 
urate from  30  to  32  grains  of  pure  and  dry 
carbonate   of   soda;    such  vinegar    contains 
about  5  per  cent,   of  anhydrous  (absolute) 
acetic  acid.    Vinegar  above  30  per  cent,  of 
real  acid  will  dissolve  the  essential  oils  and 
camphor.     The  strength  of  vinegar  may  also 
be  ascertained  in  the  same  way  as  any  other 
acid  (see  Nos.  69  and  78);  but  vinegar  manu- 
facturers designate  the  strength  of  their  pro- 
ducts by  the  number  of  grains  of  pure  car- 
bonate of  potassa  required  to  neutralize  1 
fluid  ounce  of  the  vinegar  tested.     Thus,  if  1 
fluid  ounce  of  a  sample  of  vinegar  requires  16 
grains  of  carbonate  of  potassa  to  neutralize 
it,  the  vinegar  is  said  to  be  of  a  strength  of 
16  grains. 

1751.  To  Deprive  Vinegar  and  Other 
Vegetable  Liquids  of  their  Color.      To 
take  away  the  color  of  vinegar,  2  pints  red 
wine  vinegar,  cold,  are  mixed  with  1£  ounces 
bone-charcoal  (prepared  as    directed  in  the 
next  receipt)  in  a  glass  vessel.     Shake  this 
mixture  from    time  to   time,  and  in  2  or  3 
days  the  color  completely  disappears.     "When 
the  process  is  to  be  performed  in  the  large 
way,  throw  the  charcoal  into  a  cask  of  vine- 
gar, which  must  be  stirred  from  time  to  time. 
The  highest  colored  red  wine-s  treated  in  the 
same  manner  become  perfectly  limpid.    Ivory- 
black  possesses  the  same  property  as  bone- 
black.     Filtering  through  charcoal  will  pro- 
duce the  same  result. 

1752.  To  Prepare  Animal  Charcoal 
to  Decolorize  Vinegar  and  other  Vege- 
table Liquids.      Fill  a  crucible    with   the 
most  compact  parts  of  ox  and  sheep  bones, 


SAUCES,  CATSUPS,  AND  PICKLES. 


181 


lute  the  cover,  carefully  leaving  only  a  small 
opening  at  the  top,  place  the  crucible  on  a 
forge  fire,  and  heat  it  gradually  till  red ;  when 
the  flame  from  the  oily  and  gelatinous  parts 
has  ceased,  diminish  the  opening  and  sud- 
denly raise  the  fire ;  when  cold,  reduce  the 
charcoal  to  fine  powder.  (See  No.  1729.) 


Sauces,  Catsups,  and  Pic- 
kles. The  following  receipts  are 
given  to  illustrate  the  methods  employed  in 
preparing  a  number  of  well  known  condi- 
ments. This  department  of  our  work  might 
have  been  greatly  extended,  but  it  was  not 
thought  advisable  to  occupy  space  with  par- 
ticulars that  may  be  found  in  any  of  the  pop- 
ular treatises  on  cookery: 

1754.  Soy.    The  pure  article  is  imported 
from  China,  but  an  excellent  substitute  may 
be  prepared  by  boiling  1  gallon  of  the  seeds 
of  Dolichos  soja  (if  this  cannot  be  had,  haricot 
or  kidney  beans  will  answer)  in   sufficient 
water  until  soft;  add  1  gallon  bruised  wheat, 
and  keep  in  a  warm  place  for  24  hours ;   then 
add  1   gallon  salt,  and  2  gallons  water,  and 
keep  for  2  or  3  months  in  a  tightly  bunged 
stone  jar;  after  which,  press  out  the  liquor. 

1755.  Epicurean  Sauce.     Indian  soy, 
2  ounces ;  walnut  catsup,  mushroom  catsup, 
each  8  ounces ;  port  wine,  2  ounces ;    bruised 
white  pepper,  |  ounce;  shallots,  3  ounces; 
cayenne,  J  ounce ;  cloves,  £  ounce.     Macerate 
for  L4  days  in  a  warm  place,  strain,  and  add 
white  wine  vinegar  to  make  up  a  pint. 

1 756.  Kitchener's  Sauce  Superlative. 
Port  wine,  and  mushroom  catsup,  of  each  1 
pint;  walnut  or  other  pickle  liquor,  £  pint; 
pounded  anchovies,   4  ounces ;   fresh  lemon- 
peel  cut  thin,    sliced   shallots,   and  scraped 
horseradish,   of  each  1  ounce ;   allspice  and 
black  pepper,  of  each  £  ounce;   cayenne,  I 
drachm;    curry  powder,   3  drachms;  celery 
seed,  1  drachm;  put  them  in  to  a  wide-mouth- 
ed bottle,    stop  it  close,   shake  daily  for  2 
weeks,  and  strain  ;    %  pint  soy  may  be  added. 

1757.  To    Make  Quin  Sauce.      Mix 
together  2  gallons  walnut  catsup,  2  gallons 
mushroom  catsup,  1  gallon  soy,  1  pound  gar- 
lic, and  6  pounds  sprats.     Boil  for  15  minutes, 
strain  and  bottle. 

1758.  To    Make    Harvey's    Sauce. 
Take  48  parts  Quin  sauce,  16  parts  soy,  and  1 
part  cayenne. 

1759.  Worcestershire  Sauce.     Mix  to- 
gether 1£  gallons  white  wine  vinegar,  1  gal- 
lon walnut  catsup,  1  gallon  mushroom  catsup, 
\  gallon  Madeira  wine,  ^  gallon  Canton  soy, 
2£   pounds  moist  sugar,    19   ounces   salt,    3 
ounces  powdered  capsicum,  Is  ounces  each  of 
pimento  and  coriander,  1£  ounces  chutney,  i 
ounce  each  of  cloves,  mace  and  cinnamon, 
and  6|  drachms  ass.afo3tida  dissolved  in  1  pint 
brandy  20  above  proof.      Boil  2  pounds  hog's 
liver  for  12  hours  in  1  gallon  of  water,  adding 
water  as  required  to  keep  up  the  quantity; 
then  mix  the  boiled  liver  thoroughly  with  the 
water ;  strain  it  through  a  coarse  sieve.     Add 
this  to  the  sauce. 

1760.  Indian  Curry.     The  true  Indian 
curry  is   said   to   be   thus  made:    Coriander 
seed,  6  drachms ;  turmeric  5  scruples ;  fresh 


ginger,  4 5  drachms;  cummin  seeds,  18  grains; 
black  pepper,  54  grains;  poppy  seed,  94  grains ; 
garlic,  2  heads ;  cinnamon,  1  scruple ;  carda- 
mom, 5  seeds ;  8  cloves,  1  or  2  chillies ;  half  a 
cocoa-nut  grated;  all  but  the  last  to  be  ground 
on  a  stone. 

1761.  Italian  Tamara.    Coriander  seed, 
cloves,   and  cinnamon,   of   each    8    ounces; 
anise  and  fennel  seeds,  of  each  4  pounds ;  mix. 

1762.  Bengal  Chutney.      Chillies,  ij 
pounds ;  unripe  mangoes  (or  apples),  1  pound ; 
red  tamarinds,   2    pounds ;    sugar    candy,   1 
pound ;  fresh  ginger  root,  l|  pounds ;  garlic,  £ 
to  Ik  pounds;  sultana  raisins,  1$  pounds;  fine 
salt,  1  pound;  and  5  bottles  of  the  best  vinegar; 
soak  the  chillies  for  1  hour  in  the  vinegar, 
then  grind  all  with  a  stone  and  muller  to  a 
paste. 

1763.  Kitchener's  Essence  of  Soup 
Herbs.    Take  of  lemon  thyme,  winter  savory, 
sweet  marjoram,  and  sweet  basil,  of  each  1 
ounce;   grated  lemon  peel  and  eschalots,  of 
each  i  ounce ;  bruised  celery  seed,  J  ounce ; 
proof  spirit,  1  pint.     Digest  for  10  to  14  days. 
A  superior  flavoring  essence  for  soups,  gravies, 
seasonings,  &c. 

1764.  Essence    of    Savory    Spices. 
Take  of  ground  black  pepper,  4  ounces ;  pow- 
dered turmeric,  3  drachms ;  ground  coriander 
seeds,  1£  drachms;    oil  of  pimento,  1-J  fluid 
drachms ;  oil  of  nutmeg,  oil  of  cloves,  oil  of 
cassia,  and  oil  of  caraway,  of  each  i  drachm ; 
alcohol,  1  pint.     Digest  with  agitation  for  2 
weeks. 

1765.  Tincture   of  Savory    Spices. 
Take  of  black  pepper,  1£  ounces ;  allspice,  5 
drachms ;  nutmegs  and  burnt  sugar,  of  each 
J  ounce ;  ground  cloves,  cassia,  coriander  and 
caraway  seeds,  of  each  1  drachm;  proof  spirit, 
1  pint.     Digest  with  agitation  for  2  weeks ; 
press  and  filter.     Used  for  flavoring.     When 
made  with  alcohol  and    double    the    above 
weight  of  spices  it  makes  an  essence  of  savory 
spices. 

1766.  Cautions  in  the  Preparation  of 
Catsups,  &c.     In  preparing  catsups,  pickles, 
<fec.,   vessels  of  earthenware,   stoneware    or 
well-tinned    copper    pans    should    alone    be 
used,  as  salt,  vegetable  juices  and  vinegar  rap- 
idly coiTode  copper,   and  render  the  results 
poisonous.     Nothing  in  the  shape  of  copper, 
lead,  or  pewter  should  be  allowed  to  come  in 
contact  with  them  at  any  time.     Even  a  plated 
copper  spoon  left  in  a  bottle  of  catsup  for  some 
time  will  render  its  contents  poisonous.     Un- 
pleasant and  even  dangerous  attacks  of  vom- 
iting, colic,  and  diarrhoaa  have  resulted  from 
neglect  of  these  precautions. 

1767.  Mushroom  Catsup.     Lay  alter- 
nate layers  of   mushrooms  and    salt  in  an 
earthenware  pan,  using  "4  pound  of  salt  to 
each  2  quarts  of  mushrooms.     After  6  hours, 
break  them  into  pieces,  and  set  in  a  cool  place 
for  3  days,   stirring  every  morning.      Next 
strain,  and  to  every  quart  of  the  juice  add  k 
ounce  each  allspice  and  ginger,  h  tea-spoonful 
powdered  mace,  and  1  tea-spoonful  cayenne 
pepper.     Put  it  into  a  closely  covered  stone 
jar,  set  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  boil 
briskly  for  5  hours ;  then  empty  it  into  a  por- 
celain lined  kettle  and  simmer  gently  for  k 
hour;  let  it  stand  over  night. in  a  cool  place 
to  settle.     Decant  the  clear  liquor  and  cork 
tightly  in  bottles  filled  to  the  mouth.    It  is 


182 


SAUCES,  CATSUPS,  AND  PICKLES. 


better  to  seal  the  corks  and  tie  down  with 
bladder,  and  to  use  small  bottles,  as  it  soon 
spoils  when  exposed  to  the  air. 

1768.  Tomato  Catsup.    Take  1   peck 
Tipe  tomatoes,  cut  a  slit  in  them,  and  put 
them  into  a  porcelain  lined  kettle.     Boil  until 
the  pulp  is  dissolved ;  strain  and  press,  first 
through  a,  cullender,  then  through  a  hair-sieve; 
then  boil  for  5  hours  with  1  ounce  salt,  1  ounce 
mace,  1  table- spoonful  black  pepper,  1  tea- 
spoonful,  cayenne,  1  table-spoonful  powdered 
cloves,  7  of  ground  mustard,  and  1  of  celery 
seed ;  this  last  tied  in  a  thin  muslin  bag ;  stir 
frequently,  especially  during  the  last  hour; 
turn  it  into  a  stone  jar  to  cool;  and,  when 
cold,  add  1  pint  strong  vinegar;  take  out  the 
bag  of  celery  seed,  and  bottle.     Seal  the  corks, 
and  keep  in  a  dark  cool  place. 

1769.  Tomato  Catsup.    Cut  £  bushel 
tomatoes  to  pieces,  and  boil  them  in  their  own 
liquor  until  soft ;  strain  and  press  through  a 
hair-sieve  to  separate  the  skins  and  seeds; 
boil  down  to  a  thick  pulp,  stirring  all  the 
time ;  then  add  G  ounces  salt,  6  drachms  all- 
spice, 1  ounce  5£  drachms  yellow  mustard,  3 
ounces  black  pepper,   6  drachms    cloves,  3 
drachms    mace,    2    drachms    cayenne    pep- 
per, and  1  gallon  vinegar.    The  spices  must 
all   be   ground  fine  before  using  them.     Let 
the  whole  boil  up  twice,   and,  when  cool, 
bottle. 

1770.  Walnut  Catsup.    Take   young, 
tender  walnuts,  prick  them  in  several  places, 
bruise  them  with  a  wooden  billet,  and  place 
in  a  jar  with  sufficient  water  to  cover  them, 
adding  a  handful  of  salt  for  every  25  walnuts ; 
stir  them  twice  a  day  for  14  days ;  then  drain 
off  the  liquor  into  a  saucepan.    Cover  the 
walnuts  with  boiling  vinegar,  crush  to  a  pulp 
and  strain  through  a  cullender  into  the  liquor 
in  the  saucepan.    Add,  for  every  2  quarts,  2 
ounces  each  black  pepper  and  ginger,  1  ounce 
each  cloves  and  nutmeg  pounded  fine,  a  pinch 
of  cayenne,   a    shallot  minced  fine,   and    a 
thimbleful  of  celery  seed  tied  in  a  muslin 
bag.     Boil  all  together  for  an  hour,  and,  when 
cold,  bottle.    In  the  above  manner  an  ex- 
cellent catsup  may  be  made  from  butternuts. 

1771.  Tarragon  Vinegar.     Put  fresh 
tarragon  leaves  into  a  stone  jar,  and  pour  on 
them  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  best  wine 
vinegar  to  cover  them.     Set  the  jar  in  a  warm 
place  for  14  days ;  then  strain  through  a  jelly 
bag.     In  the  same  way  may  be  made  cider- 
flower,  basil,  green  mini,  and  Burnct  vinegars. 

1772.  Cress  and  Celery  Vinegars  are 
made  with  a  ounce  of  the  bruised  seed  to  a 
quart  of  vinegar. 

1773.  Horseradish  Vinegar,   with  3 
ounces  of  the  scraped  root,  1  ounce  of  minced 
shallots,  1  drachm  cayenne,  to  1  quart  vinegar. 

1774.  Garlic  Vinegar  is  made  with  2 
ounces  minced  garlic  to  1  quart  wine  vinegar. 

1775.  Shallot   Vinegar  in    the  same 
manner,  using  challots  instead  of  garlic. 

1776.  Chili  Vinegar,  with  50  chillies 
(peppers)  cut  or  bruised  (or  £  ounce  cayenne 
pepper),  to  1  pint  of  the  best  vinegar ;  digest 
for    14  days,   strain,   and  keep  in  half-pint 
bottles. 

,  1777.  Camp  Vinegars.  Take  12 
chopped  anchovies,  2  cloves  of  garlic  minced, 
1  drachm  cayenne,  2  ounces  soy,  4  ounces 
walnut  catsup,  and  1  pint  best  vinegar ;  digest 


for  1  month,  and  strain.  Or :  Vinegar,  1 
quart ;  walnut  catsup,  1  pint ;  mushroom  cat- 
iup,  3  table-spoonfuls  ;  garlic,  4  heads ; 
cayenne,  4  ounce;  soy,  2  table-spoonfuls; 
port  wine,  2  glasses;  3  anchovies,  and  1 
table-spoonful  of  salt ;  put  them  into  a  bottle, 
shake  daily  for  a  month,  and  decant. 

1778.  Curry  Vinegar.     Infuse  3  ounces 
urry  powder  in  1  quart  vinegar,  near  the  fire, 

for  3  days. 

1779.  Superfine    Raspberry    Vine- 
gar.    Pour  1  quart  vinegar  on  1  quart  rasp- 
berries ;  the  next  day  press  and  strain  the  juice 
upon  another  quart  of  the  fruit,  and  repeat 
this  every  day  for  6  days.    Then  add  1  pound 
white  sugar  to  every  pint  of  the  vinegar,  and 
put  it  into  a  jar,  which  must  be  placed  in  a 
pot  of  boiling  water  to  be  scalded  through. 

1780.  Fine  Raspberry  Vinegar. 
Bruised  ripe  raspberries  and  white  wine  vine- 
gar, of  each  3  pints ;  macerate  24  hours,  press, 
strain,  and  to  each  pint  add  white  sugar,  1 
pound ;  boil,  skim,  cool,  and  to  each  pint  add 
brandy,  2  ounces.  In  a  similar  way  may  be 
made  Strau-berry  Vinegar  and  Cherry  Vinegar. 

1781.  Raspberry  Vinegar.     Macerate 

2  pounds  fresh  raspberries  with   1  pint  best 
vinegar  for  14  days,  and  strain:  or,  to  1  quart 
of  juice  add  2  ounces  strong  acetic  acid  or 
enough  to  render  it  sufficiently  acid. 

1 782.  Raspberry  Vinegar  from  Rasp- 
berry Syrup.     Mix   together  2  pints   rasp- 
berry syrup  and  •£  fluid  ounce  acetic  acid. 
Added  to  iced  water  according  to  taste,  this 
is  one  of  the  most  delightful  of  refrigerant 
drinks. 

1783.  Eschalot  Wine.   Bruised  shallots, 

3  ounces ;  sherry  wine,  1  pint ;  infuse  for  10 
days;    1  ounce  scraped  horseradish    and    1 
drachm  thin  lemon-peel  may  be  added.     Dr. 
Kitchener  says  this  is  the  most  elegant  prepa- 
ration of  the  onion  tribe.     "Wines  of  several 
herbs  may  be  made  in  the  same  proportion  as 
the  vinegars. 

1784.  Table  Mustard.     Mix  8  spoon- 
fuls of  flour  of  mustard  with  2  of  salt  and  9 
of   water.      Mix  to   a  smooth  paste,  add  6 
spoonfuls  more  water,  and  mix. 

1785.  Le  Normand's  Superior  Table 
Mustard.     Take  of  best  flour  of  mustard,  2 
pounds;    fresh . parsley,   chervil,  celery,  and 
tarragon,  of  each  $  ounce ;  garlic,  1  cloVe;  12 
salt  anchovies  (all  well  chopped);  grind  well 
together,  add  of  salt,  1  ounce ;  grape  juice  or 
sugar  sufficient  to  sweeten,  with   sufficient 
water  to  form  the  mass  into  a  thinuish  paste 
by  trituration  in  a  mortar.     "When  put  into 
pots,  a  red-hot  poker  is  to  be  thrust  into  each, 
and  a  little  vinegar  afterwards  poured  upon 
the  surface. 

1786.  Soyer's  Table  Mustard.     Steep 
mustard   seed   in  twice  its  bulk   of  distilled 
vinegar  for  8  days;  grind  to  a  paste,  and  put 
it  into  pots,  thrusting  a  red-hot  poker  into 
each. 

1787.  Moutarde  a  1'Estragon.    Gently 
dry  1  pound  black  mustard  seed :  then  pow- 
der it  fine,  and  mix  it  with  2  ounces  salt,  and 
sufficient  tarragon  vinegar  to  make  a  paste. 
In  a  similar  way  are  prepared  several  other 
mustards,   by    employing    vinegars    flavored 
with  the  respective  substances,  or  walnut  or 
mushroom  catsup,  or  the  liquors  of  the  richer 
pickles,  in  proportions  to  suit  the  taste. 


SAUCES,  CATSUPS,  AND  PICKLES. 


183 


1788.  Moutarde    Superbe.     Take  o 
salt,  \h  pounds;  scraped  horseradish,  1  pound 
garlic,  2  cloves;  boiling  vinegar,  2  gallons 
macerate  in  a  covered  vessel  for  24  hours 
strain,  and  add  of  flour  of  mustard  a  sufficien 
quantity. 

1789.  To   Make   Cayenne   Pepper 
This  is  prepared  from  the  pods  of  the  Chili  or 
bird-pepper.     The  ripe  pods,  dried  in  the  sun 
are  placed  in  layers  with  wheaten  flour  in  a 
dish  or  tray,  and  exposed  in  a  stove  room  o 
half  cold  oven  until  perfectly  dry ;  they  are 
then  removed  from  the  flour  and  ground  tc 
fine  powder ;  to  every  ounce  of  this  powder 
15  ounces  wheaten  flour  are  added,  and  made 
into  a  dough  with  a  little  tepid  water  and  a 
tea-spoonful  of  yeast ;    after  fermentation  ib 
well  set  up,  the  dough  is  cut  into  small  pieces 
and  baked  in  a  slow  oven  until  perfectly  hare 
and  brittle.     It  is  then  beaten  or  ground  to 
powder,  and  forms  cayenne  pepper. 

1790.  Pickles.     In  making  pickles,  use 
none  but  the  best  cider  vinegar.    Never  keep 
pickles  in  glazed  earthenware,  but  in  glass  or 
hard  stoneware,  and  well  covered  with  vine- 
gar.    They  should  be  examined  every  month 
or  two,  and  soft  pieces  removed.    If  there  if 
much  tendency  to  soften,  it  is  advisable  to 
strain  off  the  vinegar,  add  to  each  gallon  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  boil  it,  and  return  it  to  the 
pickle  jar  while  hot.     The  occasional  addition 
of  a  little  sugar  keeps  pickles  good,  and  im- 
proves them.     Spices  in  pickles  should  be  used 
whole,    slightly  bruised,   but  preferably  not 
ground  ;  if  ground,  they  should  be  tied  up  in 
thin  muslin  bags.    Most  pickles,  if  well  kept, 
improve  with  age,  by  the  vinegar  losing  its 
raw  taste,  and  the  flavor  of  the  spices,  &c., 
improving  and  blending.     (See  No.  1766.) 

1791.  Spiced   Vinegar  for   Pickles 
Generally.     Braise  in  a  mortar  2  ounces 
black  pepper,  1  ounce  ginger,  £  ounce  allspice, 
and  1  ounce  salt.     If  a  hotter  pickle  is  desired, 
add  5  drachm  cayenne,  or  a  few  capsicums. 
For  walnuts  add  also  1  ounce  shallots.     Put 
these  in  a  stone  jar,  with  a  quart  of  vinegar, 
and  cover  them  with  a  bladder  wetted  with 
the  pickle,  and  over  this  a  piece  of  leather. 
Set  the  jar  near  the  fire  for  3  days,  shaking  it 
3  times  a  day  ;  then  pour  it  on  the  walnuts  or 
other  vegetables.     To  save  time,  it  is  usual  to 
simmer  the  -vinegar  gently  with  the  spices, 
which   is  best  done  in  an  enameled   sauce- 
pan.    For  walnuts  it  is  used  hot;  for  cabbage, 
<fcc.,  cold. 

1792.  Pickled    Cauliflower.      These 
should  bo  sliced,  and  salted  for  2  or  3  days, 
then  drained,  and  spread  upon  a  dry  cloth  be- 
fore the  fire  for  24  hours ;   after  which  they 
are  put  into  a  jar,  and  covered  with  spiced 
vinegar.     Dr.  Kitchener  says  that  if  vegeta- 
bles  are  put    into  cold   salt    and    water  (J 
pound  salt  to  1   quart  water)  and  gradually 
heated  to  a  boiling  heat,  it  answers  the  same 
purpose  as  letting  them  lie  some  days  in  salt. 

1793.  Pickled  Cucumbers.   Gherkins. 
Small    cucumbers,   but  not  too    young,   are 
wiped  clean  with  a  dry  cloth,  put  into  a  jar, 
and  boiling  vinegar,  with  a  handful  of  salt, 
poured  on  them.     Boil  up  the  vinegar  every 
3  days,  and  pour  it  on  them  till  they  become 
green ;  then  add  ginger  and  pepper,  arid  tie 
them  up  close  for  use.     Or  cover  them  with 
salt  and  water  (as  above)  in  a  stone  jar,  cover 


this  and  set  them  on  the  hearth  before  the 
fire  for  2  or  3  days,  till  they  turn  yellow;  then 
put  away  the  water,  and  cover  them  with  hot 
vinegar,  set  them  near  the  fire,  and  keep  them 
hot  for  8  or  10  days,  till  they  become  green ; 
then  pour  off  the  vinegar,  cover  them  with 
hot  spiced  vinegar,  and  keep  them  close. 
Haifa  dozen  peppers  improve  ajar  of  cucum- 
bers, as  the  heat  of  the  former  is  absorbed  by 
the  latter. 

1794.  Pickled  Onions.    Let  them  lie 
in  strong  salt  and  water  for  2  weeks;  then 
take  them  out  and  peel  them;  put  them  in 
fresh  salt  and  water  for  2  weeks  more ;  take 
them  out,  wash  them  clean,  and  let  them  lie 
in  fresh  water  all  night.    Next  day  place  them 
on  a  cloth  to  drain ;  then  put  them  in  a  jar, 
and  pour  over  them  hot  spiced  vinegar.    If 
you  wish  them  of  a  nice  color,  use  white 
vinegar. 

1795.  Pickled  Onions.     Peel  small  sil- 
ver button  onions,  and  throw  them  into  a 
stew-pan  of  boiling  water;  as  soon  as  they 
look  clear,  take  them  out  with  a  strainer-ladle, 
place  them  on  a  folded  cloth  covered  with 
another,  and  when  quite  dry  put  them  into  a 
jar  and  cover  them  with  hot  spiced  vinegar. 
(See  No.  1791.)    When  quite  cold,  bung  them 
down,  and  cover  with  bladder  wetted  with  the 
pickle. 

1796.  Pickled  Peppers.     Soak 'fresh 
hard  peppers  in  salt  and  water  for  9  days,  in 
a  warm  place,  changing  the  brine  every  day. 
Then  put  them  into  cold  vinegar.    If  the 
pickles  are  not  required  very  hot,  take  out 
the  seeds  from  the  greater  portion  of  the  pep- 
pers. 

1797.  Beetroot  Pickles.    Simmer  the 
roots  till  3  parts  done  (from  H  to  2|  hours); 
then  take  them  out,  peel  and  cut  them  in  thin 
slices.    Put  them  into  a  jar,   and  pour  on 
sufficient  cold  spiced  vinegar  (see  No.  1791) 
to  cover  them. 

1798.  Pickled  Walnuts.      Take    100 
young  walnuts,  lay  them  in.  salt  and  water  for 
2  or  3  days,  changing  the  water  every  day. 
(If  required  to  be  soon  ready  for  use,  pierce 
each  walnut  with  a  larding  pin,  that  the  pickle 
may  penetrate.)     Wipe    them  with  a    soft 
cloth,  and  lay  them  on  a  folded  cloth  for 
some  hours.  "Then  put  them  in  a  jar,  and 
pour  on  sufficient  hot  spiced  vinegar  (see  No. 
L791)  to  cover  them.     Or  they  may  be  al- 
owed  to  simmer  gently  in  strong  vinegar, 

then  put  into  a  jar  with  a  handful  of  niustard 
seed,  1  ounce  ginger,  4  ounce  mace,  1  ounce 
allspice,  2  heads  of  garlic,  and  2  split  nutmegs, 
and  pour  on  them  sufficient  boiling  vinegar  to 
cover  them.  Dr.  Kitchener  recommends  the 
walnuts  to  be  gently  simmered  with  the  brine, 
,hen  laid  on  a  cloth  for  a  day  or  two,  till  they 
turn  black,  put  into  ajar,  and  hot  spiced  vine- 
ar  poured  on  them. 

1799.  Pickled  White  Cabbage.    Cut 
white  cabbage  into  thin  slices,  put  it  into  an 
jarthen  pan,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  let  it  lie 
"or  2  days ;  then  drain  and  spread  it  out  before 
he  fire  for  some  hours ;  put  it  into  a  stone  jar, 
md  add  sufficient  white  vinegar,  or  pale  white 
rinegar,  to  cover,  with  a  little  mace  and  a  few 

white  pepper-corns. 

1800.  Pickled  Red  Cabbage.    Kemove   * 
he  outer  leaves  and  stalks,  and  cut  the  cab- 
jage  in  quarters,  then  shred  them  into  a  cul- 


TEAST. 


lender,  and  sprinkle  with  salt ;  next  day  drain, 
put  them  into  a  jar,  and  pour  on  sufficient 
cold  spiced  vinegar  to  cover  them.  (See  No. 
1791.)  Others  hang  up  the  cabbage  for  a  few 
days  to  dry,  then  shred  the  leaves,  and  put 
them  in  layers  in  a  jar  with  a  little  salt,  pep- 
per, and  ginger,  and  fill  up  with  cold  vinegar. 
Others  use  vinegar  without  spice. 

1801.  Pickled  Nasturtiums,  French 
Beans,  and  other  small  green  vegetables,  are 
made  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for 
gherkins.  (See  No.  1793.) 

1802.  Pickled  Mushrooms.  Clean 
the  mushrooms  with  water  and  flannel,  throw 
them  into  boiling  salt  and  water  in  a  stewpan, 
and  boil  for  a  few  minutes.  Drain  them  in  a 
cullender,  and  spread  out  on  a  linen  cloth, 
covering  them  with  another.  Put  into  bottles 
with  a  blade  or  two  of  mace,  and  fill  up  with 
white  vinegar,  pouring  some  melted  mutton 
fat  on  the  top,  if  intended  to  be  kept  long. 

1803.  Pickled  Tomatoes.  Tomatoes 
are  pickled  in  the  same  manner  as  cucumbers. 
(See  No.  1793.) 

1804.  Imitation  Pickled  Mangoes. 
Large  cucumbers,  or  small  melons,  are  split 
so  that  a  marrow-spoon  may  be  introduced, 
and  the  seeds  scooped  out;  they  are  then  par- 
boiled in  brine  strong  enough  to  float  an  egg, 
dried  on  a  cloth  before  the  fire,  filled  with 
mustard  seed  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  then 
covered  with  spiced  vinegar.     (See  No.  1791.) 
Keal  mangoes  are  pickled  in  the  same  way. 

1805.  Piccalilli,   Indian,   or    Mixed 
Pickle.     To  each  gallon  strong  vinegar  put 
4  ounces  curry  powder,  4  ounces  good  flour  of 
mustard,  3  ounces  bruised  ginger,  2  ounces 
turmeric,  8  ounces  skimmed  shallots,  and  2 
ounces  garlic,  the  last  two  slightly  baked,  J 
pound  salt  and  2  drachms  cayenne  pepper. 
Digest  these  near  the  fire,  as  directed  in  N"o. 
1791  for  spiced  vinegar.     Put  into  a  jar,  gher- 
kins, sliced  cucumbers,  sliced  onions,  button 
onions,  cauliflower,  celery,  French  beans,  nas- 
turtiums,  capsicums,   large  cucumbers,   and 
small  melons.    AH  except  the  capsicums  to 
be  parboiled  in  salt  and  water,  drained,  and 
dried  on  a  cloth  before  the  fire.     The  melons 
and  large  cucumbers  to  be  prepared  as  direct- 
ed in  last  receipt  for  mangoes.    Pour  on  them 
the  above  pickle. 

1806.  Mixed  Pickle.  Take  1  pound 
ginger-root  and  $  pound  garlic  (both  pre- 
viously^alted  and  dried),  2  gallons  vinegar,  3 
ounce  turmeric,  and  £  pound  long  pepper. 
Digest  together  for  2  or  3  days  near  the  fire 
in  a  stone  jar ;  or  gently  simmer  them  in  a 
pipkin  or  enameled  saucepan.  Then  put  in 
almost  any  vegetables  -except  red  cabbage  and 
walnuts,  all  previously  salted  and  dried. 


Yeast.  Teast  is  either  the  froth  or 
the  deposit  of  fermenting  worts,  accord- 
ing to  the  character  of  the  fermentation.  Ac- 
cording to  Liebig,  yeast  is  a  substance  in  a 
state  of  putrefaction  or  fermentation,  the 
atoms  of  which  are  in  a  continual  motion,  and 
this  condition  it  communicates  by  contact,  to 
fermentable  substances.  Liidersdorfl7  con- 
siders yeast  an  organic  body,  acting  on  the 
sugar  contained  in  the  saccharine  solution, 


and  not  by  mere  contact  and  communication 
of  its  own  condition.  This  view  receives 
considerable  support  by  examination  of  its 
particles  by  a  microscope,  and  also  from  its 
fermenting  power  being  destroyed  by  tritura- 
tion  or  strong  pressure.  Cooley  believes  both 
views  to  a  certain  extent  correct,  and  that  the 
atoms  in  a  state  of  continual  motion  or  change, 
referred  to  by  Liebig,  are  developed  by  the 
organs  of  vital  yeast,  when  in  contact  with 
sugar  under  circumstances  favorable  to  fer- 
mentation. 

1 808.  Preparation  of  Brewers'  Yeast. 
To  do  this,  72  pounds  unkilned  malt  and  a 
handful  of  hops   are   gradually   stirred    in  a 
clean  tub  containing  7  gallons  water  of  170° 
Fahr.;  and  to  this  5 5  gallons  water  of  200°  are 
added.     The  tub  is  then  covered  tightly  and 
left  quiet  for  1  hour.     Supposing  this  to  be 
done  at  6  P.  M.,  the  whole  is  left  undisturbed 
till  7  o'clock  next  morning,  when  it  must  be 
cooled  rapidly,  which  is  done  by  setting  in 
cans  filled  with  cold  water.     When  the  tem- 
perature of  the  mash  has  reached  70°,  the  tub 
is  covered  again  and  left  during  the  day  till  6 
P.  M.;  at  this  time  1|  gallons  fresh  beer  yeast 
are  to  be  stirred  in.     In  12  hours  pierce  a  hole 
in  the  layer  formed  by  the  husks  of  the  rnalt, 
and  dip  3&  gallons  of  the  liquor  beneath,  then 
stir  the  whole  up  and  dip  If  gallons  from  it 
(husks  and  liquor).     This  is  the  mother-barm, 
from  which  you  can  generate  yeast  all  the 
year  round  in  using  it  in  the  way  described 
instead  of  the  ordinary  beer  leaven.     To  the 
remainder  in  the  tub  add  5  gallons  wort  of 
90°.  (see  No.  858),  and  make  use  of  it  in  within 
2  hours.      The    mother-yeast  also  must  be 
used  the  same  day  for  fermenting  another 
portion. 

1809.  Yeast  for  Hot  Climates.     Boil 
2  ounces  of  the  best  hops  in  4  quarts  'water 
for  %  hour ;  strain  it,  and  let  the  liquor  cool 
down  to  new  milk  warmth.     Then  put  in  a 
small  handful  of  salt  and  2  pound  brown  sugar; 
beat  up  1  pound  best  flour  with  some  of  the 
liquor,  and  mix  all  well  together.     The  third 
day  add  3  pounds  potatoes  boiled  and  mashed, 
and  let  it  stand  until  the  next  day.     Then 
strain,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.     Stir  frequently 
while  making,  and  keep  near  a  fire.     Before 
using,  stir  well ;  it  will  keep  2  or  3  months  in 
a  cool  place.     This  yeast  is  very  strong ;  half 
the  usual  quantity  necessary  for  a  baking  is 
sufficient.     This  yeast  may  be  kept  in  a  tem- 
perature as  high  as  104°  Fahr. 

1810.  To  Prepare  Yeast  without  a 
Ferment.     Common  wheat  flour  is  to  be 
mixed  with  water  into  a  thick  paste,  and 
kept,  slightly  covered,  in  a  moderately  warm 
place,  for  some  time.    About  the  third  day 
it  begins  to  emit  a  little  gas,  and  to  exhale  a 
disagreeable,  sour  odor,  like  stale  milk  ;  after 
the  lapse  of  a  few  days,  that  is,  about  the 
sixth  or  seventh  day,  the  smell  changes,  much 
gas  is  evolved,  accompanied  by  a  distinct  and 
agreeable  vinous  odor,  and  it  is  then  in  a 
state  to  excite  the  vinous  fermentation.    A 
quantity  of  wort  is  next  to  be  prepared,  and 
boiled  with  hops,  in  the  same  manner  as  in 
ihe  brewing  of  beer  (sec  No.  858),  and  when 

ooled  to  90°  or  100°  Fahr.,  the  decomposed 
dough,  thoroughly  mixed  with  tepid  water,  is 
to  be  added,  and  the  whole  kept  in  a  warm 
situation.  After  the  lapse  of  a  few  hours, 


THE   FLOWER    AND    KITCHEN   GARDEN. 


185 


active  fermentation  takes  place,  carbonic  acid 
is  disengaged,  and  when  the  action  is  complete, 
and  the  liquor  clear,  a  large  quantity  of  yeast, 
of  excellent  quality,  is  found  at  the  bottom  of 
the  vessel. 

1811.  To  Make  Yeast  without  a  Fer- 
ment.    Boil  J  peck  malt  in  3  pints  water ; 
pour  off  2  pints,  and  keep  it  in  a  warm  place 
For  30  hours ;  add  4  pints  of  a  similar  decoc- 
tion, stir  it  well  in,  again  ferment,  and  repeat 
this  addition  of  4  pints  until  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  yeast  is  obtained ;  10  pints  will  yield 
yeast  sufficient  for  a  brewing  of  40  gallons;  it 
is  preferable  to  brewers'  yeast,  particularly 
when  used  for  raising  doush. 

1812.  To  Make  Good  Yeast  without 
Ferment.     Put  2  ounces  best  hops  into  9 
pints   cold  water;   boil  ^  hour,  strain  while 
hot,  and  add  2  ounces  fine  table  salt  and  J 
pound   sugar.     "When  the  mixture  becomes 
blood-warm,  put  1  pound  sifted  flour  into  a 
large  basin,  make  a  well  in  the  centre  with 
the  hand,  add  the  liquor  by  degrees,  stirring 
with  a  spoon  until  the  whole  is  thoroughly 
incorporated.     Let  it  stand  for  2  days  in  a 
warm  place,  stirring  it  3  or  4  times  a  day; 
then  boil  and  mash  finely  3  pounds  good  po- 
tatoes, and  mix  them  in.     After  standing  1 
day  more,  there  should  be  a  heavy  dark  scum 
on  the   surface.     Stir    it  thoroughly,   strain 
through  a  sieve  or  cullender,  put  it  into  a 
stone  jar,  cork  and  tie  down  firmly,  and  keep 
in  a  cool  cellar.     This  is  a  self-fermenting 
yeast,  improves  by  keepingif  not  left  uncorked, 
and  will  not  make  sour  bread. 

1813.  To   Make   Yeast  with  a  Fer- 
ment.    Mix  2  quarts  water  with  wheat  flour, 
to  the  consistence  of  thick  gruel ;  boil  it  gently 
for  ^  hour,  and  when  almost  cold,  stir  into  it 
k  pound  sugar  and  4  spoonfuls  good  yeast. 
Put  the  whole  in  a  large  jug  or  earthen  vessel, 
with  a  narrow  top,  and  place  it  before  the  fire, 
so  that  it  may,  by  a  moderate  heat,  ferment. 
The  fermentation  will  throw  up  a  thin  liquor, 
which  pour  off  and  throw  away;    keep  the 
remainder  for  use  (in  a  cool  place)  in  a. bottle, 
or  jug  tied  over.     The  same  quantity  of  this 
as  of  common  yeast  will  suffice  to  bake  or 
brew  with.     4   spoonfuls   of  this  yeast  will 


municate  a  most  disagreeable  taste  to  bread. 
This  may  be  derived  from  an  excess  of  hops. 
To  rectify  this,  mix  with  the  yeast  a  consider- 
able quantity  of  water,  and  set  it  by  to  rest 
for  some  hours,  when  the  thickest  part  will 
fall,  to  the  bottom.  Pour  off  the  water, 
which  will  have  extracted  part  of  the  bitter 

Erinciple,  and  use  only  the  stiff  portion  that 
as  fallen  to  the  bottom.  But  yeast  sometimes 
acquires  a  bitter  taste  from  keeping,  which  is 
quite  independent  of  that  derived  from  the 
hops.  To  remedy  this,  throw  into  the  yeast 
a  few  clean  coals  freshly  taken  from  the  fire, 
but  allowed  to  cool  a  little  on  the  surface. 
The  operation  appears  to  depend  in  principle 
upon  the  power  of  freshly  burnt  charcoal  to 
absorb  gases  and  remove  offensive  odors. 

1817.  Baking  Powder.     This  is  chiefly 
employed  as  a  substitute  for  yeast.     1  or  2 
tea-spoonfuls  are  mixed  with  the  dry  flour 
and  other  ingredients,  which  are  then  made 
into  a  dough,  as  quickly  as  possible,  with  cold 
water,  and  at  once  baked  or  boiled,  as  the  case 
may  be.    By  the  addition  of  about  £  drachm 
turmeric  powder  to  each  pound  of  baking 
powder,   it    is  converted    into    egg  powder. 
These  preparations  should  be  kept  in  well 
corked  bottles  or  tins,  to  prevent  absorption 
of  moisture. 

1818.  To    Make    Baking    Powder. 
Powder  and  thoroughly  dry   separately,  by 
gentle  heat,  ^  pound  tartaric  acid,  £  pound 
pure  bicarbonate  of  soda,  and  £  pound  potato 
farina;    mix  them  in  a  dry  room,  pass  the 
mixture  through  a  sieve,  and  at  once  put  into 
packages,  observing  to  press  it  hard,  and  to 
cover  it  with  tinfoil  or  close-made  paper,  and 
to  preserve  it  as  much  as  possible  from  air  and 
moisture.  Or :  Mix  and  pack,  as  just  described, 
£  pound  tartaric  acid,  |  pound  alum,  £  pound 
pure  bicarbonate  of  soda,  1  pound  farina,  and 
3  ounces  sesquicarbonate  of  ammonia.     Or :  5 
pounds  tartaric  acid,  8  pounds  pure  sesqui- 
carbonate of  soda,  and  16  pounds  farina.    In 
using,  1  or  2  tea-spoonfuls  are  mixed  with  the 
dry  flour,  which  is  then  made  up  quickly  with 
cold  water,   and   baked   immediately.    Any 
other  flour  or  starch  may  be  used  instead  of 
the  potato  flour. 


make  a  fresh  quantity  as  before,  and  the  stock 
may  be  always  kept  up,  by  fermenting  the 
new  with  the  remainder  of  the  former  quantity. 
1814.  Patent  Yeast.  Simmer  6  ounces 
hops  in  3  gallons  water  for  3  hours ;  strain  it, 
and  in  10  minutes  stir  in  \  peck  ground  malt. 

5fext  re-boil  the  hops  in  water,  and  add  the  j  The  aim  of  the  following  receipts  is  to  afford 
liquor  to  the  mash  already  made,  which  must  j  information  for  the  treatment  of  ornamental 


Receipts  for  the  Flower 
and  Kitchen   G-arden. 


be  well  stirred  up,  covered  over,  and  left  for  4 
hours ;  then  drain  off  the  wort,  and  when 
cooled  down  to  90°  Fahr.,  set  it  to  work  with 
1  pint  yeast  (patent  is  best) ;  after  standing 
for  20  to' 24  hours,  take  off  the  scum,  strain  it 
through  a  coarse  hair  sieve,  and  it  is  ready  for 
use.  1  pint  is  said  to  be  enough  for  1  bushel 


of  bread. 

1815.     To  Preserve  Yeast. 


Ordinary 


beer  yeast  may  be  kept  fresh  and  fit  for  use 
for  several  months,  by  placing  it  in  a  close 
canvas  bag,  and  gently  squeezing  out  the 
moisture  in  a  screw  press  till  the  remaining 
matter  becomes  as  stiff  as  clay,  in  which  state 
it  must  be  preserved  in  close  vessels. 

1816.      To     Remedy     Bitterness    in 
Yeast.     Yeast  is  often  so  bitter  as  to  com- 


in-door  plants,  and  for  the  general  requirements 
and  improvement  of  the  flower  and  kitchen 
garden,  without  entering  into  the  principles  of 
either  agriculture  or  horticulture. 

1820.  To  Dissolve  Bones  for  Ma- 
nure. Break  the  bones  into  small  pieces,  or 
pulverize  them,  if  the  means  are  available; 
put  them  into  a  hole  in  the  ground,  or,  prefer- 
ably, a  stone  tank.  Pour  upon  them  about 
40  pounds  oil  of  vitriol  to  100  pounds  boues. 
Work  the  mixture  with  long  wooden  poles 
until  the  mass  is  uniform.  Allow  it  to  re- 
main 24  hours,  by  which  time  it  will  be  per- 
fectly dry.  A  couple  of  shovelfuls  added 
daily  to  a  dung-heap  will  form  a  fine  compost. 

Bones  may  also  be  dissolved  by  filling  an 
old  barrel  with  alternate  layers  of  wood  ashes 


186 


THE  FLOWER  AND  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 


and  fresh  bones,  slightly  wetting  from  time  to 
time  with  hot  water.  This  is  a  more  econom- 
ical plan  than  by  the  use  of  sulphuric  acid, 
and  is  said  to  make  a  more  soluble  compound. 

1821.  Composts  for  Improving  the 
Soil.      Composts    are    mixtures    of  several 
earths,  or  earthy  substances,  or  dungs,  either 
for  the  improvement  of  the  general  soil  under 
cultivation,  or  for  the  culture  of  particular 
plants.    In  respect  to  composts  for  the  soil  of 
the  garden,  their  quality  must  depend  upon 
that  of  the  natural  soil ;  if  this  bo  light,  loose, 
or  sandy,  it  may  be  assisted  by  heavy  loams, 
clays,  etc.,  from  ponds  and  ditches,  cleanings 
of  sewers,  etc.     On  the  other  hand,  heavy 
clayey  and  all  stubborn  soils  may  be  assisted 
by  light  composts  of  sandy  earth,  drift,  and 
sea-sand,  the  shovelings  of  turnpike  roads, 
the  cleansing  of  streets,  all  kinds  of  ashes, 
rotten  tanners'  bark,  rotten  wood,  sawdust, 
and  other  similar  light  opening  materials  that 
can  be  most  conveniently  procured. 

1822.  To   Prepare   Composts.     The 
preparation  necessary  for    heavy  and    light 
composts  for  general  enrichment,  and  of  the 
above  different  earths,  consists  in  collecting 
each  soil  in  the  compost  ground,  in  separate 
ridges  of  3  or  4  feet  broad,  and  as  high,  turn- 
ing them  every  G  weeks  or  2  months  for  a  year 
or  a  year  and  a  half  before  they  are  used. 
Peat  earth,  being  generally  procured  in  the 
state  of  turf  full  of  the  roots  and  tops  of  heath, 
requires  2  or  3  years  to  rot ;  but  after  it  has 
lain  1  year  it  may  be  sifted,  and  what  passes 
through  a  small  sieve  will  be  found  fit  for  use. 
Some  nurserymen  use  both  these  loams  and 
peats  as  soon  as  procured,   and  find    them 
answer  perfectly  for  most  plants ;    but   for 
delicate  flowers,  and  especially  bulbs,  and  all 
florists'  flowers,  and  for  all  composts  in  which 
manures  enter,  not  less  than  1  year  ought  to  be 
allowed  for  decomposition  and  sweetening. 

1823.  Universal  Composts.     The  pre- 
paration of  many  separate  kinds  of  composts 
may  be  obviated  by  the  general  use  of  the 
following  mixture  :  Fibrous  peat,  1  part ;  leaf- 
mould,  2  parts ;    thoroughly  rotted  dung,  1 
part ;  light  kazelly  loam,  4  parts ;  and  1  part 
sharp  sand.     There  is  scarcely  any  flowering 
plant  but  will  grow  well  in  such  a  mixture, 
and  if  peat  is  not  to  be  had,  an  additional  part 
of  leaf-mould  may  take  its  place. 

1824.  Liquid  Manure.     The  principal 
materials  now  used  for  liquid  manures  are  to 
be  used  in  the  following  proportions  for  all  or- 
dinary purposes :  Guano,  dissolve  CO  pounds 
weight  in  10  gallons  water,  and  of  this  strong 
solution,  add  5  ounces  to  10  gallons  of  water 
for  use.     Sheep's-dung,  1  peck  to  30  gallons. 
Sulphate  of  ammonia,  1£    ounces  to  every 
gallon. 

1825.  Liquid  Guano  to   Hasten  the 
Blowing1  of  Flowers.     To  hasten  the  blow- 
ing of  flowers  the  following  liquid  has  been 
used  with    great    advantage:     Sulphate    or 
nitrate  of  ammonia,  4    ounces;    nitrate  of 
potash,  2  ounces ;  sugar,  1  ounce ;  hot  water, 
1  pint ;  dissolve  and  keep  it  in  a  well-corked 
bottle.     For  use,  put  8  or  10  drops  of  this 
liquid  into  the  water  of  a  hyacinth-glass  or 
jar  for  bulbous -rooted  plants,  changing  the 
water  every  10  or  12  days.     For  flowering 
plants  in  pots,  a  few  drops  must  be  added  to 
the  water  employed  to  moisten  them. 


1826.  Artificial  Manure  for  Clover. 

Mix  together  10  parts  each  sulphate  of  am- 
monia, common  salt,  and  oil  of  vitriol;  15 
parts  chloride  of  potassium ;  17  parts  each 
gypsum  (plaster  of  Paris)  and  sulphate  of 
potassa;  20  parts  saltpetre;  25  parts  crude 
Epsom  salt  (sulphate  of  magnesia) ;  and  33 
parts  sulphate  of  soda  (Glauber  salts.) 

1827.  Artificial  Manure  for  Wheat, 
Turnips,  or  Grass.     Take  28  pounds  crude 
potash,  1  cwt.  common  salt,  2  cwt.  each  bone 
dust  and  gypsum  (plaster  of  Paris),  and  15 
bushels  wood  ashes.    Mix  them  together. 

1828.  Artificial  Guano.  Mix  11  pounds 
dry  sulphate  of  soda  (Glauber  salts)  with  28 
pounds  wood  ashes ;  84  pounds  common  salt ; 
112  pounds  crude  sulphate  of  ammonia ;  and 
7  bushels  bone  dust. 

1829.  Fertilizing    Powder.      To    18 
parts  very  fine  bone  dust  add  1  part  each 
gypsum  (plaster  of  Paris)  and  sulphate  of 
ammonia.    The  seed   should   be  steeped    in 
the  drainings  from  a  dunghill ;  and  alter  be- 
ing drained,  but  while   still  wet,  should   be 
sprinkled  with  the  powder  and  then  dried. 

1830.  Phosphate     for     Manuring. 
Macerate  for  some  days,  with  frequent  stir- 
ring, 2  parts  crushed  bones  in  1  part  oil  of  vit- 
riol and  3  parts  water.     This  forms  a  super- 

Shosphate  of  lime,  which,  mixed  with  water, 
ry  earth,  or  sand,  forms  an  excellent  manure. 

1831.  How  to  Select   and   Manage 
Cuttings.     The  choice  of  cuttings  should  ue 
made  from  the  side  shoots  of  trees  and  plants, 
and,    when    possible,    from  such  as  recline 
towards  the  ground,  observing  to  leave  a  little 
wood  of  a  former  year  or   season's  growth 
attached  to  them,  as  such  are  found  to  take 
root  more  readily  than  when  they  are  wholly 
composed  of  new  wood.     The  time  to  take 
cuttings  is  as  soon  as  the  sap  gets  into  full 
motion.     Before  setting  them  they  should  be 
cut  across,  just  below  an  eye  or  joint,  with  as 
smooth  a  section  as  possible,  observing  not  to 
injure  the  bud.     The  superfluous  leaves  may 
be  removed,  but  a  sufficient  number  should  be 
left  on  for  the  purposes  of  vegetation.     The 
practice  of  removing  all  or  nearly  all  of  the 
leaves  of  cuttings  is  injudicious.     In  some 
cases  leaves  alone  will  strike  root.     In  the 
case  of  tubular  stalked  plants,  it  is  said  to  be 
advantageous  to  insert  both  ends  into  the  soil, 
each  of  which  will  take  root,  and  may  then  bo 
divided,  when  two  plants  will  be  produced 
instead  of  one.     An  equable  temperature,  a 
moist  atmosphere,    a    shady   situation,    and 
a  moderate  supply  of  water,  arc  the  princi- 
pal requisites  to  induce  speedy  rooting.     Ex- 
cess of  any  of  these  is  prejudicial.   When  the 
size  of  the  cuttings'  admits,  it  is  better  to 
place  them  under  a  hand  or  bell  glass,  which 
will  preserve  a  constant  degree  of  heat,  and 
prevent  evaporation  from  the  surface  of  the 
leaves,  which  is  the  most  common  cause  of 
their  dying,  especially  in  hot,  dry  weather. 
"What  the  degree  of  heat  ought  to  be  is  deci- 
ded by  the  degree  of  heat  requisite  for  the 
mother   plant.    Most  species  of    the  erica, 
dahlia,  and  geranium,  strike  better  when  sup- 
plied with  rather  more  heat  than  is  requisite 
for  the  growth  of  these  plants  in  green-houses. 
Cuttings  of  the  myrtle   tribe,  camellias,  and 
most  other  plants,  require   rather  less   heat 
than  the  plants  in  their  growing  state. 


THE   FLOWER    AND    KITCHEN   GARDEN. 


187 


1832.  To  Insert  Cuttings.     Cuttings, 
if  inserted  in  a  mere  mass  of  earth,  will  hard- 
ly throw  out  roots,  while,  if  inserted  at  the 
side  of  the  pot  so  as  to  touch  the  pot  in  then- 
whole   length,   they   seldom   fail  to  become 
rooted  plants.    The  art  is  to  place  them  to 
touch  the  bottom  of  the  pot ;  they  are  then 
to  be  plunged  in  a  bark  or  hot-bed  and  kept 
moist. 

1833.  The  Color  of  Flowers  Changed 
by  Charcoal.      A  horticulturist  in  England 
purchased  a  rose-bush  full  of  promising  buds 
— the  flowers,  however,  were  of  a  faded  hue. 
He  covered  the  earth  in  the  pot  about  an 
inch  thick  with  pulverized  charcoal,  and  was 
surprised,  some  days  afterward,  to  find  the 
blooms  of  a  fine  lively  rose  color.     He  then 

.  tried  the  powdered  charcoal  upon  petunias, 
and  found,  that  both  the  white  and  violet  col- 
ored flowers  were  equally  sensitive  to  its  ac- 
tion. It  always  gave  great  vigor  to  the  red 
or  violet  color  of  the  flowers,  and  the  white 
petunias  became  veined  with  red  or  violet 
tints ;  the  violets  became  covered  with  irreg- 
ular spots  of  a  bluish  or  almost  black  tint. 
Many  persons  who  admired  them  thought 
they  were  choice  new  varieties  from  the  seed. 
Yellow  flowers  appear  to  be  insensible  to  the 
influence  of  charcoal. 

1834.  To  Turn  White  Flowers  Red. 
The  juice  of  the  Yirginian  pokeweed  sprin- 
kled on  the  white  hyacinth  will  turn  it  red. 
The  same  effect  is  produced  on  many  other 
white  flowers. 

1835.  To    Preserve    Cut    Flowers. 
Place  a  vase  containing  the  cut  flowers  in  the 
centre  of  a  flat  dish,  into  which  a  little  water 
has  been  poured ;  invert  a  bell  glass  over  the 
vase,  so  that  the  rim  of  the  glass  is  covered 
by  the  water,  thus  forming  an  air-tight  cham- 
ber.    The  air  surrounding  the  flowers  will  be 
constantly  moist,  and  will  remain  so  as  long 
as  the  supply  of  water  in  the  dish  is  kept  un- 
dhuinished.     We  recommend  those  who  love 
to  see  plenty  of  fresh  flowers  in  their  sitting- 
rooms  in  dry  weather,  to  adopt  this  plan. 
The  experiment  can  bo  tried  by  inverting  a 
tumbler  over  a  rose-bud  in  a  saucer  of  water. 
If  some  charcoal  has  been  previously  steeped 
in  the  water,  or  a  small  piece  of  camphor  dis- 
solved, it  will  greatly  assist  in  keeping  the 
flowers  fresh.    Yiolets  may  be  preserved  for  a 
long  time  by  sticking  them  with  short  stems 
into  a  glass  dish  filled  with  damp  silver-sand, 
and  then  inverting  a  tumbler  over  them. 

1836.  To  Preserve  Flowers.     Flowers 
may  be  preserved  for  many  months  by  dip- 
ping tham  carefully,  as  soon  as  gathered,  in 
perfectly  limpid  gum  water;   after  allowing 
them  to  drain  for  2  or  3  minutes,  arrange  them 
in  a  vase.     The  gum  forms  a  complete  coating 
on  the  stems  and  petals,  and  preserves  their 
shape  and  color  long  after  they  have  become 
dry. 

1837.  Preservation  of  Flowers  with 
their  Natural  Colors.     The  mode  in  which 
the  operation  is  effected  is  this :    A  vessel 
with  a  movable  cover  and  bottom  is  provided, 
and  having  removed  the  cover  from  it,  a  piece 
of  metallic  gauze   of  moderate    fineness  is 
fixed  over  it,   and  the  cover  replaced.      A 
quantity  of  sand  is  then  taken,  sufficient  to 
fill  the  vessel,  and  passed  through  a  sieve  into 
an  iron  pot,  where  it  is.  heated,  with  the  addi- 


tion of  a  small  quantity  of  stearine,  carefully 
stirred,  so  as  to  thoroughly  mix  the  ingredi- 
ents. The  quantity  of  stearine  to  be  added  is 
at  the  rate  of  £  pound  to  100  pounds  of  sand. 
Care  must  be  taken  not  to  add  too  much 
stearine,  as  it  would  sink  to  the  bottom  and 
injure  the  flowers.  The  vessel,  with  its  cover 
on  and  the  gauze  beneath  it,  is  then  turned 
upside  down,  and,  the  bottom  being  removed, 
the  flowers  to  be  operated  upon  are  carefully 
placed  on  the  gauze  and  the  sand  gently 
poured  in,  so  as  to  cover  the  flowers  entirely, 
the  leaves  being  thus  prevented  from  touch- 
ing each  other.  The  vessel  is  then  put  into  a 
hot  place,  such,  for  instance,  as  the  top  of  a 
baker's  oven,  where  it  is  left  for  18  hours. 
The  flowers  thus  become  dried,  and  they  re- 
tain their  natural  colors.  The  vessel  still  re- 
maining bottom  upwards,  the  lid  is  taken  off, 
and  the  sand  runs  away  through  the  gauze, 
leaving  the  flowers  uninjured. 

1838.  To  Preserve  Flowers  in  Wa- 
ter.    Mix  a  little  saltpetre  or  carbonate  of 
soda  with  water,   and  it  will  preserve  the 
flowers  for  2  weeks. 

1839.  To   Restore   Faded   Flowers. 
Faded  flowers  may  be  generally  restored  by 
immersing  them  half-way  up  their  stems  in 
very  hot  water,  and  allowing  them  to  remain 
in  it  until  it  cools,  or  they  have  recovered. 
They  must  then  be  removed,  the  coddled  por- 
tion of  the  stems  cut  off,  and  placed  in  clean 
cold  water.     In  this  way  a  great  number  of 
faded  flowers  may  be  restored,  but  there  are 
some  of  the  more  delicate  kinds  on  which  it 
proves  useless. 

1 840.  To  Raise  Hyacinths  in  Winter. 
Put  the  bulbs  in  glasses  or  earth,  and  set  them 
in  a  dark  closet  to  sprout.     If  in  glasses,  the 
water  should  not  be  higher  than  1  inch  below 
the  bulb,  until  the  roots  have  reached  the  wa- 
ter, when  the  glasses  may  be  filled  up,  a  piece 
of  charcoal  put  in  the  water,  and  the  plants 
set  in  the  sun  to  grow. 

1841.  Soot  Water  for  Roses.      Put 
the  soot  obtained  from  the  pipe  or  chimney 
of  a  wood  fire,  into  a  pitcher,  and  pour  hot 
water  upon  it.    "When  cool,  use  the  liquid  oc- 
casionally to  water  the  rose  plants.    Its  effects 
are  extraordinary  in  strengthening  the  growth 
of  the  plants  and  flowers. 

1842.  To  Make  Hydrangea  Flowers 
Blue.      If  they  are  grown  in    a  tolerably 
strong  maiden  loam,  which  contains  a  portion 
of  oxide  of  iron,  the  flowers  will  become  blue 
without  further  trouble ;  but  they  will  require 
to  be  potted  in  this  said  compost,  and  con- 
tinually grown  in  the  same,  from  the  cutting 
pot,  to  ensure  their  flowers  coming  blue.    If 
the  soil  itself  will  not  make  the  flower  blue, 
they  should  be  watered  with  a  solution  of 
alum  for  some  time  previous  to  flowering. 
The  solution  may  bo  made  by  mixing  at  the 
rate  of  1  ounce  alum  to  a  gallon  of  rain  water.  . 
The  plants  should  bo  struck  from  small  cut- 
tings of  the  soft  wood,  from  February  till 
May,  that  are  required  to  flower  in  those 
mouths  the  following  year.     They  should  bo 
potted  in  time  enough  for  their  roots  to  fill 
them  before  winter.    It  is  advisable  to  flower 
them  the  following  spring  in  the  pots,  allow- 
ing the  plants  to  produce  only  one  cluster  of 
flowers  each,  and  taking  off  all  the  suckers  and 
side  shoots  to  strike  for  flowering  the  follow- 


188 


THE    FLOWEE    AND    KITCHEN   GARDEN. 


ing  spring,  as  old  plants  cannot  be  depended 
upon  to  produce  blue  flowers.  If  £  part  of 
iron  filings  be  mixed  with  the  earth  in  which 
the  plant  is  grown,  it  will  frequently,  although 
not  always,  change  from  its  original  pink 
cofor  to  a  light  blue.  A  cutting,  however, 
taken  from  the  plant  thus  changed,  and  grown 
without  iron  filing,  reverts  to  its  previous 
color. 

1843.  To  Prevent  Damping  or  Fog- 
ging Off.     Cuttings  in  heat,  and  seedlings 
pricked  out,  are  very  liable  to  damp  off,  if  in 
a  confined  air,  with  too  much  moisture.     The 
best  mode  of  treatment  is,  as  soon  as  evidences 
of  damping  appear,  to  give  more  air,  and  in- 
crease the  temperature  5  degrees,  and,  at  the 
same  time,  to  sprinkle  the  surface  of  the  soil 
with  a  mixture  of  silver-sand  and  powdered 
peat,  crumbled  to  the  fineness  of  snuff. 

1844.  To  Remedy  American  Blight. 
Take  -J-  peck  quicklime,  £  pound  flowers  of 
sulphur,  and  J  pound  lampblack.    Mix  with 
boiling  water,  enough  to  form  a  thick  paint. 
"With  this,  in  the  winter,  when  the  leaves  are 
off,  paint  the  branches,  having  first  removed 
all  loose  bark.    In  doing  this,  be  sure  to  re- 
move the  soil  from  the  bottom  of  the  stem  to 
the  main  roots,  and  paint  all  the  nuderground 
part.    February  is  a  good  time  for  this.    If 
one  application  is  not  sufficient,  repeat.    Use 
the  paint  warm.    When  this  has  become  dry, 
the  trees  should  be  looked  over,  and  all  cracks 
and  holes  stopped  with  well  worked  clay,  and 
after  frost  the  clay-stoppings  should  be  dressed 
again,  to  close  any  cracks1  that  may  occur. 

1 845 .  To  D  estroy  Aphides,  and  Other 
Insects  on  Plants.   Take  of  quassia  chips,  3 £ 
ounces ;  larkspur  seed,  5  drachms ;  boil  these 
together  in  7  pints  water  until  the  decoction 
is  reduced  to  5  pints.  When  the  liquid  is  cooled 
it  is  to  be  strained,  and  used  with  a  watering- 
pot  or  syringe,  as  may  be  most  convenient. 
This  is  a  most  excellent  method  of  destroying 
insects  on  plants,  without  injury  to  the  latter. 
It  is  recommended  by  the  highest  authorities. 

1846.  Blight  on  Fruit  Trees,  Hoses, 
and  Fruit  Bushes.     When  winter  dressings 
have  failed,  and  the  pests  appear  in  spring  to 
such  an  extent  as  to  endanger  the  crop,  pro- 
cure a  quantity  of  ammoniacal  liquor  from 
the  gas-works,  and  to  every  pailful  of  the  li- 
quor add  6  of  water,  and  boil  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible in  a  large  copper.    Apply  this  in  the 
evening,  hot,  with  a  syringe,  drenching  every 
part  of  the  trees,  and  letting  not  a  leaf  escape. 
It  should  be  used  as  hot  as  can  be  borne  by 
placing  the  hand  in  it,  and  thrown  with  as 
much  force  as  possible  into  all  the  crevices  in 
the  bark,  on  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves,  and 
splashed  vigorously  against  the  wall  on  which 
espaliers  are  trained.    It  may  be  used  also  for 
roses  and  fruit  bushes,  with  the  most  certain 
benefit.     Two  days  after  give  another  syring- 
ing with  plain  warm  water.     To   clean   the 
copper  in  which  the  mixture  is  prepared,  fill 
it  with  water,  throw  in  a  shovel  of  cinder 
ashes  and  a  pound  of  soda,  and  let  it  boil  for 
half  an  hour. 

1 847.  To  Prevent  Ants  from  Inj  uring 
Fruit  Trees.     Make  a  line  of  gas-tar  round 
the  stem  of  the  tree,  or  if  it  be  trained  on  a 
wal],  make  a  horizontal  line  near  the  ground, 
on  the  wall,  and  one  round  the  stem;  this 
will  prevent  ants  from  ascending. 


1848.  To  Destroy  Black  Ants.     Boil 
4  ounces  quassia  chips  in  1  gallon  water,  for 
10  minutes,  and  add  4  ounces  soft  soap.  •   This 
is    excellent    to    destroy    black    ants.      Or: 
Sprinkle  pulverized  borax  over  the  plants  or 
places  infested  by  these  vermin.     (See  No. 
1909.) 

1849.  To  Prevent  Mildew  on  Trees. 
The  best  preventive  against  mildew  is  to  keep 
the  plant  subject  to  it  occasionally  syringed 
with  a  decoction  of  elder  leaves,  which  will 
prevent  the  fungus  growing  on  them. 

1 850.  To  Remove  Mildew  from  Roses, 
Pelargoniums,  Etc.     Mildew  has  been  suc- 
cessfully removed  from  roses  and  pelargon- 
iums, by  dissolving  1  ounce  nitre  to  1  gallon 
water,  and  watering  the  plants  with  it  occa- 
sionally ;  another  way  is  to  wash  the  diseased 
parts  with  a  decoction  of  elder  leaves,.     But 
the  most  effectual  remedy  is  flowers  of  sul- 
phur dusted  over  the  foliage,  by  means  of  a 
dredging-box  with  very  fine  holes. 

1851.  To  Remove  Green  Fly.     Choose 
a  still  evening,  and  let  the  plants  be  quite  dry. 
Arrange  them  together  in  a  close  place ;  put 
into  an  iron  pan,  or  a  flower-pot,  a  few  red-hot 
cinders  that  do  not  smoke,  upon  which  lay 
the  tobacco  or  tobacco-paper;    a    cloud    of 
smoke  will  soon  arise.     When  the  frame  is 
well  filled  with  smoke,  remove  the  pan,  and 
be  exceedingly  careful  that  the  tobacco  does 
not  break  out  into  a  flame. 

1852.  To  Fumigate  Plants  with  To- 
bacco Smoke.     There  are  various  modes  of 
employing  the  smoke  of  tobacco  for  the  de- 
struction of  insect  pests  in  plant  houses,  but 
the  best  is  as  follows : — According  to  the  size 
of  the  place  to  be  fumigated  provide  one  or 
more  pieces  of  cast-iron  1  inch  thick  and  3 
inches  of  surface.     Make  these  red-ho.t  and 
place  each  in  a  large-sized  pot ;  and  on  them 
as  much  tobacco  as  may  be  considered  neces- 
sary to  completely  fill  the  house  with  smoke. 
An  ordinary  eight-light  house  will  require  3 
heaters,  and  1  pound  of  tobacco,  divided  into 
3  equal  parts.     If  the  tobacco  is  previously 
soaked  in  a  strong  solution  of  saltpetre,  its 
ignition  is  more  rapid  and  complete,  and  a  less 
quantity  suffices. 

1853.  To  Drive  Worms  out  of  Pots. 
Securely  cork  up  all  the  drainage  holes  in  the 
pot,  and  then  flood  it  for  several  hours  with 
clear  lirne-wate  r. 

1854.  To  Destroy  Green  Fly.     Syr- 
inge the  plants  with  tobacco  water.     One  part 
ammoniacal  liquor  from  the  gas-works,  mixed 
with  5  or  more  parts  of  water,  according  to 
its  strength,  will  also  destroy  the  insects. 

1855.  "Wash to  Prevent  Cattle  from 
Barking  Trees.      Take  f  cow-dung  and  J 
lime;  mix  with  a  little  water,  to  the  consist- 
ency of  thick  lime-wash,  and  lay  this  on  the 
stems  of  the  trees  as  far  as  the  cattle  can 
reach. 

1856.  To  Prevent  Grub  in  Oni9ns. 
Make  some  strong  lime-water,  add  to  it  as 
much  soot  as  will  make  it  into  a  thin  paint, 
and  water  the  crop  with  it  the  moment  the 
maggot  appears.  This  soot  mixture  is  so  stim- 
ulating a  manure  that  it  should  always  be 
used  to  increase  the  weight    of   the    crop. 
House-slops  mixed  with  lime  and  soot  would 
be  still  more  powerful,  both  to  destroy  mag- 
got and  improve  the  plant ;    but  unless  rain 


THE  FLOWER  AND  KITCHEN  GAUD  EN. 


189 


followed  immediately,  it  would  be  advisable 
to  drench  the  ground  with  pure  water  the  day 
after  application.  Ground  intended  for  a  crop 
of  large  onions  should  be  prepared  in  the  au- 
tumn, and  after  being  dug  over,  should  be 
watered  with  a  mixture  of  sulphuric  acid  anc 
water,  made  so  strong  as  to  burn  the  tongue. 
This  will  destroy  every  animal  in  the  soil,  anc 
the  winter  rains  will  wash  it  away  entirely 
before  spring. 

1857.  To  Prevent  Attacks   of  Bed 
Spider.     In  cases  where  the  infested  plant; 
can  be  well  syringed,  a  few  times  repeating 
this  operation  will  cause  them  to  disappear. 
"When  this  cannot  be  resorted  to  with  safety, 
the  flues  or  pipes  may  be  washed  over  with 
sulphur,  and  should  be  kept  warm  to  raise  an 
effluvia  in  the  house,  which  will  soon  eradi- 
cate these  pests.     If  a    little   soft    soap    is 
mixed  with  the  water  to  syringe  with,  it  will 
prove  obnoxious  to  many  other  insects  as  well 
as  red  spider,  and  will  not  injure  the  foliage  oi 
the  plant,  providing  the  plants  are  not  syr- 
inged  when  the  scorching  hot  sun  is  upon 
them. 

1858.  To  Kill  Thrips  on  Cucumbers 
and  Melon  Plants.     To  kill  thrips  on  cu- 
cumbers and  melon  plants,  they  should   be 
syringed  with  tobacco  water,  and  a  little  sul- 
phur   added,   or  with  a  decoction   of  elder 
leaves ;  either  of  these  repeated  a  few  times 
will  suffice ;    or  the  infested  parts  may'  be 
dusted  over  .with  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  al- 
lowed to  remain  on  for  3  or  4  days,  when  it 
should    be    washed   off   thoroughly  with    a 
syringe.     (See  No.  1850.) 

1859.  To  Destroy  Maggot  in  Roses. 
A  bushel  of   uuslacked  lime  in    powder,    £ 
pound   sulphur   also  in  powder;   mix  these 
well  whilst  dry,  then  add  water  to  make  it 
about  as  thick  as  molasses,  and  boil  for  1  hour; 
then  add  just  enough  soot,  moistened  to  the 
same  consistence,  to  darken  the  color;   lay 
this  on  with  a  brush  all  over,  stock  and  head, 
in  the  latter  part  of  March. 

1860.  To    Destroy   Moss    on    Fruit 
Trees.      Every  second  year  fruit  trees  should 
be   well    scrubbed  with   a   scrubbing  brush 
dipped  in  strong  brine,  so  as  to  moisten  every 
part  of  the  bark  of  the  stem  and  branches. 
This  not  only  destroys    the    moss,  but   in- 
sects of  all  kinds,  and  is  beneficial  to  all  trees, 
whereas  applications  of   lime   choke  up  the 
respiratory    pores,   and    sometimes   produce 
canker. 

1861.  To  Remove  Moss  on  Gravel 
"Walks.     This  may  be  kept  down  by  the  use 
of  a  broom  made  of  wire;  if  the  wire  is  made 
of  iron  the  broom  should  be  well  dried  and 
dipped  in  oil  before   and   after    being  used. 

1862.  To  Protect  Lettuce  and  Straw- 
berry Beds  from.  Snails.     If  the  beds  are 
surrounded  by  a  slate  or  board  edging,  made 
to  stand  5  inches  above  the  ground,  and  occa- 
sionally coated  with  a  paste  made  of  train 
oil  and  soot,  it  will  form  a  barrier  over  which 
Bnails  will  not  pass. 

1863.  To  Prove  Cucumber  and  Melon 
Seed.     When  the  fruit  is  first  cut,  the  seed 
should  be  put  into  a  bowl  of  water,  and  that 
which  swims  on  the  surface  is  worthless •;  the 
good  will  sink  to  the  bottom.     This  can  only 
be  depended  upon  at  the  time  the  fruit  is  first 
cut  j    if  the  seed  has  been  dried  and  kept  for 


any  length  of  time,  it  will  probably  all  .swim, 
though  it  has  not  lost  its  vegetating  proper- 
ties. 

1864.  To  Clean1  Cucumber  and  Melon 
Seed.     Take  all  the  seeds  that  sink  in  water 
and  put  them  into  a  hair  sieve ;  pour  some 
warm  water  over  them  that  has  been  heated 
to  90°  or  95°  Fahr.,  and  then  rub  the  seeds 
about  in  the  sieve.     The  warm  water  will  di- 
vest them  of  the  glutinous  matter,    and  it 
may  be  easily  rubbed  off  them  through  the 
sieve,  ufter  which  they  may  be  laid  to  dry. 
Cucumber  and  melon  seeds  will  vegetate  after 
they  have  been  kept  for  years. 

1865.  To  KiU  Moss  on  Lawns.  Water 
the  lawn  with  a  weak  solution  of  arnmouiacal 
liquor  (see  No.  1854) ;  1  gallon  of  this  liquor 
is  sufficient  to  mix  with  4  gallons  of  water, 
and  should  be  put  on  with  a  rose  water-pot. 
It  will  cause  the  grass  to  look  brown  after- 
wards for  a  while,  but  it  will  become  green 
again.    Another  way  is  to  procure  some  very 
fine    siftings    of  coal-ashes,   and  sow  them 
all  over  the  parts  where  moss  abounds.     It 
will  only  be  requisite  to  sow  them  very  thinly,! 
and  if  done  just  before  a  shower  of  rain,  so 
much  the  better,  as  the  rain  will  wash  it  in ; 
this  will  kill  the  moss  without  injuring  the 
grass.     The  presence  of  mos^  indicates  that 
the  soil  is  exhausted,  and  a  top-dressing  of 
nitrate  of  soda  or  soot  will  be  found  beneficial.j 
If  the  grass  is  made  to  thrive,  it  will  always 
choke  the  moss.     (See  No.  1876.) 

1866.  To  Kill  Moss  on  Meadow  Land., 
The  mossy  parts  of-  the  meadow  should  be 
well  manured  with   good  well-rotted    stable 
dung  in  the  autumn ;  and,  if  practicable,  the 
grass  should  be  fed  off  the  following  spring, 
with  sheep.     Nitrate  of  soda  sown  on  the, 
mossy  parts  of  the  field  will  also  kill  the- 
moss,  and  is  an  excellent  manure  for  the  grass  ;i 
but  this  should  not  be  sown  at  the  rate  of 
more  than  1£  cwt.  per  acre.  ( 

1867.  To  Kill  Docks,  Dandelions,  etc. 
Cut  the  tops  off  in  the   spring  or  summer 
time,   and  pour    some    gas-tar,   or    sprinkle 
some   salt  on  the  wound.     Either  of  these 
will  kill  the  root,  by  eating  to  the  very  ex- 
tremity. 

1868.  To  Destroy   Burdocks.      Cut 
lose  to  the  ground  with  a  sharp  hoe,  and 

apply  a  few  drops  of  kerosene.     The  plant  so' 
treated  will  never  appear  again. 

1869.  To    Prevent   the  Growth  of 
Weeds  in  Garden  Walks.     A  weak  solu- 
lon  of  carbolic  acid  applied  with  a  watering- 

to  garden  walks  will  be  an  effectual  mode 
)f  preventing  the  growth  of  weeds.  The  so- 
ution  should  not  be  stronger  than  1  part  pure 
carbolic  acid  to  1000  to  2000  parts  water. 
Pure  carbolic  acid  is  a  virulent  poison.  "When 
applied  in  too  strong  a  solution,  larger  plants 
nay  suffer ;  very  weak  solutions  destroy  only 
very  small  plants  and  animals,  as  parasites, 
miasma.  Even  flies  and  mosquitoes  avoid  its 
odor  and  may  be  driven  away  by  it. 

1870.  To  Destroy  Thistles,   Grass, 
and    Weeds,    in    Gravel    Walks.      Sow 
ioarse   salt  upon    the    plants ;    the    thistles 
should  be  first  cut  to  the  ground,  and   the 
resh  roots  be  covered  with  the   salt.     The 

refuse  article  from  the  beef,  pork,  or  salt 
ish  barrel  is  quite  good  enough,  and  may  be 
employed  for  this  purpose. 


190 


THE   FLOWER    AND    KITCHEN   GARDEN. 


1871.  Cleanliness    for  Plants.     Fre- 
quently the  cause  of  the  languidness  of  plants 
in.  rooms,  arises  from  "want  of  care  in  cleans- 
ing  the    leaves.      Plants    breathe  by   their 
leaves,  which  should  be  kept  perfectly  clean 
otherwise  their  respiration  is  interfered  with 
*The  mere  watering  of  the  roots  is  not  enough 
Plants  also  perspire  by  their  leaves,  and  any 
accumulation   of  dirt  and   dust  retards  this 
useful  function.     Plants   also  feed  by  their 
leaves,  by  absorbing  the  carbonic  acid  of  the 
atmosphere;    and,   to  speak  familiarly,   dirt 
destroys  both  their  appetite   and   digestion. 
Let  any  one  examine  a  sickly  plant,  long  kept 
in  a  sitting-room,  or  draw  a  piece  of  white 
linen  or  leather  over  the  surface  of  the  leaves, 
and  he  will  probably  discover  the  cause  of  the 
plant's  drooping. 

1872.  To  Keep  Cucumbers  Fresh. 
"When  the  cucumbers  are  at  their  best  they 
should  be  cut,  and  laid  in  a  box  made  just  to 
fit  them,  and  then  bury  the  box  in  some  dry 
sand,  covering  it  over  to  the  depth  of  a  foot. 
There  should  not  be  any  hay  or  moss  put  with 
them  in  the  box,  as  it  will  cause  them  to  turn 
yellow.     If  laid  in  the  box  without  hay  or 
moss,  their  color  and  bloom  may  be  preserved 
for  two  weeks  to  look  as  fresh  as  the  day  they 
^ere  cut.    Melons  may  also  be  kept  in 'the 
same  way. 

1873.  To  Cure  Gumming  in  Fruit 
Trees.     The  place  where  the  gum  accumu- 
lates should  bo  well  washed  and  cleaned,  and 
then  stopped  well  up  with  a  paste  made  of 
horse-dung,  clay  and  tar.     This  will  prevent 
the  accumulation  of  the  gum,  and  will  assist 
the  wound  in  healing  over. 

1874.  To    Prevent   the    Bottoms   of 
Plant  Sticks  Rotting.     Dip  the  bottoms  of 
the  plant  sticks  (as  far  as  they  are  inserted 
into  the   ground)  into  hot  asphalt  three  or 
four  times,  until  the  asphalt  is  the  -fa  of  an 
inch  thickness  on  them;    this  will  preserve 
them  a  long  time.     Those  that  have  not  the 
convenience  of  dipping  them  in  asphalt,  may 
substitute  tar,  and  they  will  endure  nearly  as 
long  as  those  that  have  been  asphalted. 

1875.  To  Destroy  Weeds  and  Worms 
in  Gravel  Walks.     Lay  a  coat  of  salt  all 
over  the  walk,  and  then  water  it,  using  a  rose 
water-pot ;  but  this  should  not  be  done  where 
there  is  a  box  edging,  or  it  will  kill  that  like- 
wise.    "Where  the  edging  is  turf,  slate,  or  tiles, 
there  is  nothing  to  fear. 

1876.  To  Destroy  Worms  in  Lawns, 
Grass  Plots,  etc.     Mix  at  the  rate  of  10 
pounds  slacked  lime  to  30  gallons  water ;  stir 
it  up  well  together,  and  then  let  it  stand  for  2 
or  3  days,  in  which  time  pour  it  off  the  sedi- 
ment, and  water  the  lawn  with  it  by  means 
of  a  rose  water-pot ;  this  will  fetch  the  worms 
out  on  the  top  of  the  ground,  and  they  will 
require  to  be  swept  up  with  a  broom  and  car- 
ried away.     The  best  time  to  do  this  is  in  damp 
weather,  as  the  worms  are  then  nearer  the 
surface;   and  the  lawn  should  be  rolled  the 
evening  previous,  which  will  not  only  assist 
in  bringing  the  worms  nearer  the  surface,  but 
will  fill  up  all  the  holes  they  have  forsaken. 
The  following  night  they  will  again  open  the 
holes  in  which  they  lie,  and  thereby  afford 
the  water  greater  facility  to  reach  them  the 
next  day  without  wasting  much  by  its  soak- 
ing into  forsaken  holes.     Diluted  ammoniacal 


liquor  will  answer  the  same  purpose,  but  it 
will  make  the  grass  look  brown  for  some  time 
afterwards.  (See  No.  1865.) 

1877.  Composition  for   Wounds   on 
Hose-Bushes.     Take  5  parts  black  pitch,  1 
part  each  resin,  tailow,  and  bees'  wax ;  these 
should  be  mixed  in  a  small  pipkin,  and  dis- 
solved over  a  slow  fire.    Apply  it    to  the 
wounds  with  a  brush,  and  it  will  heal  them, 
as  well  as  prevent  their  dying  back. 

1878.  Bleeding  in  Vines.      Work   to- 
gether 1  part  calcined  oyster-shells  beaten  to 
fine  powder  in  a  mortar,  and  3  parts  cheese, 
until  they  form  a  sort  of  paste.     This  mixture 
is  to  be  forced  into  the  pores  of  the  wood 
where  bleeding  takes  place,  by  means  of  the 
thumb  and  finger.     A  second  application  is 
sometimes  necessary.      (See  Nos.   1880   and 
1881.) 

1879.  Composition    for      Healing 
Wounds  in  Trees.     Take  3  parts  pounded 
chalk  and  1  part  common  vegetable  tar ;  mix 
thoroughly,  and  boil  them  with  a  low  heat 
till  ihe  composition  becomes  of  the  consistency 
of  bees'  wax ;  it  may  be  preserved  for  use  in 
this  state  for  any  length  of  time.     If  chalk 
cannot  conveniently  be    got,  dry  brick-dust 
may  be   substituted.   .  After   the   broken  or 
decayed  limb  has  been  sawed  off,  the  whole 
of  the  saw-cut  must  be  very  carefully  pared 
away,  and  the  rough  edges  of  the  bark,  in 
particular,  must  be  made  quite  smooth ;  the 
doing  of  this  properly  is  of  great  consequence; 
then  lay  on  the  above  composition  hot,  about 
the  thickness  of  half  a  dollar,  over  the  wound- 
ed place,  and  over  the  edges  of  the  surround- 
ing bark;    it  should  be   spread  with  a  hot 
trowel. 

1880.  New  Grafting  Wax.      Melt  1 
pound  resin  over  a  slow  fire,  add  1  ounce  beef 
tallow,  and  stir  with  a  perfectly  dry  stick  or 
piece  of  wire.    "When  somewhat  cooled,  add  1 
table-spoonful  spirits  of  turpentine,  and  lastly 
5  ounces  of  95  per  cent,  alcohol  in  small  quan- 
tities, stirring  the  mass  constantly.     Should 
the  alcohol  cause  it  to  lump,  warm   again 
until  it  melts.     Keep  in  a  bottle.     Lay  it  on 
in  a  very  thin  coat  with  a  brush.     In  a  room 
of  moderate  temperature,  the  wax  should  be 
of  the  consistence  of  molasses.     Should  it 
prove  thicker,  thin  it  down  with  alcohol.     It 
is  always  ready  for  use,  is  never  affected  by 
heat  or  cold,  and  heals  up  wounds  hermeti- 
cally. 

1881.  Grafting  Wax.     Take  4  ounces 
pitch,  4  ounces  resin,  2  ounces  hogs'  lard,  and 
2  ounces  bees'  wax;  put  them  all  together  into 
a  pipkin,  and  dissolve  them  over  a  slow  fire, 
and  it  will  form  an  excellent  grafting  wax. 
By  spreading  some  of  this  mixture  on  paper 
it  makes  the  grafting  paper.      The   French 
make  very  good  grafting  wax  by  mixing  to- 
gether equal  quantities  of  bees'  wax  and  resin, 
and  adding  as  much  tallow  as  will  cause  it  to 
dissolve  at  a  low  temperature.     For  an  appli- 

;ation  where  limbs  ha've  been  removed  in 
pruning,  nothing  is  better  than  coal  tar. 

1882.  Grafting  Clay.     Take  strong  ad- 
iesive  loam  or  clay,  and  knead  it  till  of  the 

onsistency  of  soft  soap.  Take  also  some 
lorse  droppings,  and  nrb  through  a  riddle  of 
lalf-inch  mesh.  Mix  the  two  ingredients 
with  fresh  cow-dung,  all  in  equal  parts,  to 
a  uniform  consistency.  "When  grafting,  the 


THE    EXTERMINATION    OF   VERMIN 


operator  should  have  at  hand  some  finely- 
riddled  ashes,  into  which  the  hands  should  be 
dipped  to  prevent  the  clay  from  adhering,  and 
enable  him  to  give  the  whole  a  neat  finish. 

1883.  To  Propagate  Marsh  Plants. 
The  best  plan  is  by  means  of  a  stone  trough 
6  inches  to  a  foot  deep,  and  of  any  convenient 
length  and  breadth,  \vith  a  hole  for  a  tap  at 
one  corner.     This  is  to  be  treated  as  a  flower- 
pot;   the  bottom  being  covered  with  small 
stones,  and  the  trough  filled  up  with  a  com- 
post of  peat  and  light  loam.     The  surface  is 
then   covered  with   any  description   of  light 
moss  that  can  be  got,  and  watered  till  the 
whole  is  saturated  to  the  brim. 

1884.  To  Prepare  Seeds  for  Expor- 
tation.      Seeds    intended    for    exportation 
should  not  be  gathered  until  they  have  be- 
come perfectly  ripe ;  they  should  then  be  laid 
in  a  stove,  or  exposed  in  the  sun  to  dry,  as 
getting  them  perfectly  dry  is  the   principal 
point.     They  may  be  packed  in  bags,  papers, 
or  boxes.     If  they  are  kept  dry,  they  will  bear 
a  voyage  of  many  months,  without  injury  to 
their  vegetating  properties. 

1885.  To   Prepare   Nails  for   Wall- 
Trees.     These  should  be  of  cast  iron  if  they 
can  be  obtained.     Before  using,  they  should 
be  heated  red-hot,  and  then  thrown  into  cold 
linseed  oil.     This  gives  them  a  varnish  which 
preserves  them  from  rusting,  and  prevents  the 
mortar  of  the  wall   from   sticking  to  them 
when  they  are  drawn. 

1886.  Method  of  Covering  a  Bank 
of  Earth  With  Grass.     To  cover  a  steep 

'  bank  quickly  with  grass  the  following  method 
is  recommended  by  a  German  Horticultural 
Association:  For  each  square  rod  to  be  planted, 
take  i  pound  lawn  grass  seed,  and  mix  it  in- 
timately and  thoroughly  with  about  6  solid 
feet  of  good  dry  garden  earth  and  loam.  This 
is  placed  in  a  tub,  and  to  it  liquid  manure, 
diluted  with  about  §•  of  water,  is  added  and 
well  stirred  in,  so  as  to  bring  the  whole  to  the 
consistency  of  mortar.  The  slope  is  to  be 
cleaned  off  and  made  perfectly  smooth,  and 
then  well  watered,  after  which  the  paste  just 
mentioned  is  to  bo  applied  with  a  trowel,  and 
made  as  even  and  thin  as  possible.  Should 
it  crack  by  exposure  to  the  air,  it  is  to  be 
again  watered  and  smoothed  up  day  by  day, 
until  the  grass  makes  its  appearance,  which 
will  be  in  1  or  2  weeks,  and  the  whole  declivity 
will  soon  be  covered  by  a  close  carpet  of  green. 

1887.  Substitute  for  Glass  for  Hot- 
Houses.     Apply,  with  a  common  painter's 
brush,  boiled  oil,  or  Canadian  balsam,  diluted 
with  oil  of  turpentine,  to  the  surface  of  white 
muslin  previously  stretched  out  and  fastened 
in  the  position  it  is  intended  to  occupy. 

1888.  To  Preserve  Potatoes  and  Other 
Hoots.      These   are    preserved   in    different 
ways,  according  to  the  object  in  view.     Tube- 
rous roots,  as  those  of  the  dahlia,  peeonia, 
tuberose,  etc.,  intended  to  be  planted  in  the 
succeeding  spring,  arc  preserved  through  the 
•\Tinter  in  dry  earth,  in  a  temperature  rather 
under  than  above  what  is  natural  to  them. 
So  may  the  bulbous  roots  of  commerce,  as 
hyacinths,  tulips,  onions,  etc.;  but,  for  conve- 
nience, these  are  kept  either  loose,  in  cool  dry 
shelves  or  lofts,  or  the  finer  sorts  in  papers, 
till  the  season  of  planting.     Roots  of  all  kinds 
may  be  preserved  in  an  ice-house  till  the  re- 


turn of  the  natural  crop.  After  stuffing  the 
interstices  with  straw,  and  covering  the  sur- 
face of  the  ice  with  the  same  material,  place 
on  it  boxes,  casks,  baskets,  etc.,  and  fill  them 
with  turnips,  carrots,  beet  roots,  and,  in  par- 
ticular, potatoes.  By  the  cold  of  the  place, 
vegetation  is  so  much  suspended  that  all  these 
articles  may  be  thus  kept  fresh  and  uninjured 
till  they  give  place  to  another  crop  inits  natural 
season. 

1889.  To  Dry  Boots.     They  should  be 
rubbed  in  water  to  get  rid  of  the  dirt  and  also 
some  of  the  mucous  substance  that  would 
otherwise  render  them  mouldy ;  the  larger  are 
then  to  be  cut,  split,  or  peeled,  but  in  most 
aromatic  roots,  the  odor  residing  in  the  bark, 
they  must  not  be  peeled ;  they  are  then  to  bs 
spread  on  sieves  or  hurdles,  and  dried  in  a 
heat  of  about  120°  Fahr.,  either  on  the  top  of 
an  oven,  in  a  stove,  or  a  steam  closet,  taking 
care  to  shake  them  occasionally,  to  change  the 
surface  exposed  to  the  air.    Thick  and  juicy 
roots,  as  rhubarb,  briony,  peony,  water-lily, 
etc.,  are  cut  in  slices,  strung  upon  a  thread, 
and  hung  in  a  heat  of  about  90°  to  100°. 
Squills  are  scaled,  threaded,  aud  dried  around 
the  pipe  of  a  stove,  or  in  a  hot  closet.     Rhu- 
barb should  be  washed,  to  separate  that  mucous 
principle   which  would  otherwise  render   it 
black  and  soft  when  powdered.     Potatoes  are 
cut  in  slices  and  dried. 

1890.  To  Transplant   Large    Shade 
Trees.      In  the  autumn,  before    the    frost 
comes  on,  dig  a  trench  around  the  tree  and 
cut  the  roots,  but  not  too  near  the  tree.    Re- 
move the  tree  through  the  winter,  when  the 
ground  is  frozen.     Raise  it  up  with  the  frozen 
earth  adhering  to  the  roots.    The  whole  mass 
is  easily  raised  with  levers  on  to  a  strong  sled, 
and  can  then  be  drawn  erect  by  means  of 
oxen  or  horses.    Trees  from  20  to  30  feet  high 
can  be  moved  by  this  method,  and  they  will 
grow  in  the  spring. 

1 89 1 .  To  Brain  Land  in  Level  Places, 
sink  a  well  down  to  the  first  porous  stratum. 
The  water  from  the  upper  soil  will  flow  readily 
into  the  well,  especially  if  drain  pipes  or  tiles 
be  laid  in  its  direction. 


HThe  Extermination  of 

-*-  "Vermin.  The  following  compara- 
tively few  receipts  and  directions  for  destroy- 
ing, trapping  and  driving  away  insects  and 
vermin  of  all  kinds,  have  been  selected  as  the 
most  efficacious,  from  a  large  amount  of  infor- 
mation on  the  subject. 

1893.  To  Catch  Hats.  Coyer  a  common 
barrel  with  stiff,  stout  paper,  tying  the  edge 
round  the  barrel ;  place  a  board  so  that  the 
rats  may  have  easy  access  to  the  top ;  sprinkle 
cheese  parings  or  other  feed  for  the  rats  on 
the  paper  for  several  days,  until  they  begin  to 
think  that  they  have  a  right  to  their  daily 
rations  from  this  source;  then  place  in  the 
bottom  of  the  barrel  a  piece  of  rock  about  6 
or  7  inches  high,  filling  with  water  until  only 
enough  of  it  projects  above  the  water  for  one 
rat  to  lodge  upon.  Now  replace  the  paper, 
first  cutting  a  cross  in  the  middle,  and  the  first 
rat  that  comes  on  the  ban-el  top  goes  through 
into  the  water,  and  climbs  on  the  rock.  The 


192 


THE    EXTERMINATION   OF   VERMIN. 


paper  comes  back  to  its  original  position,  and 
the  second  rat  follows  the  first.  Then  begins 
a  fight  for  the  possession  of  the  dry  place  on 
the  stone,  the  noise  of  which  attracts  the 
others,  who  share  the  same  fate. 

1894.  Rat  Trap.     Fill  a  barrel  about 
half  full  of  water.    Make  the  cover  i  inch 
smaller  all  around  than  the  inside  of  the  top 
of  the  barrel.    Drive  a  nail  or  wire  on  each 
side  of  the  cover,  exactly  opposite  each  other, 
as  a  pivot,  and  fit  in  the  barrel,  so  that  a  light 
weight  will  readily  tip  the  cover.     Put  the 
bait  on  top,  in  a  firm  way,  and  place  an 
empty  barrel  or  box  near  by.    This  is  a  simple, 
but  excellent  trap. 

1895.  Bait  to  Catch  Rats  and  Mice. 
If  a  drop  of  oil  of  rhodium  be  poured  upon 
some  bait  in  a  common  or  wire  spring  trap, 
and  the  trap  be  set  in  an  infested  locality,  in 
a  short  time  the  cage  will  be  found  occupied 
by  vermin.     Rats  and  mice  possess  a  great 
liking  for  the  oil,  and  will  risk  anything  to 
obtain  it. 

1896.  To  Catch  Muskrats.     Take    a 
steel  trap  with  a  single  spring,  set  it  Ik  inches 
under  water,  hang  part  of  a  sweet  apple  over 
the  foot  plate,  and  chain  the  trap  to  a  stake  or 
rush.     The  reason  why  the  trap  should  be  set 
under  water  is  that  when  the  muskrat  sees 
the  apple  he  will  jump  for  it ;  when  he  comes 
down  he  gets  his  paws  in  the  trap. 

1897.  Rat  Poison.    Kecent  experiments 
have  shown  that  squills  is  an  excellent  poison 
for  rats.     The  powder  should  be  mixed  with 
some  fatty  substance,  and  spread  upon  slices 
of  bread.    The  pulp  of  onions  is  also  good. 
Eats  are  very  fond  of  either. 

1 898.  To  Drive  Rats  from  a  Building. 
Dissolve  2  ounces  glue,  2  ounces  tincture  of 
assafcetida,  and  2  ounces  potash  in  water,  and 
add  \  ounce  phosphorus  to  the  mixture.    Then 
in  a  wire  cage  trap,  baited  with  corn  meal 
scented  with  oil  of  anise,  catch  two  or  three 
rats ;  if  they  are  very  numerous,  more  will 
be  necessary ;  singe  the  hair  partly  off  these 
in  such  a  way  as  to  hurt  them  as  little  as  pos- 
sible, then  give  them  a  slight  coating  with 
the  above  mixture,  heated  warm;  let  them 
loose  into  their  holes,  and  there  will  be  no 
more  trouble  with  the  rats  for  mouths  to 
come.     This  mixture  will  last  2  years.     Or : 
Take  chloride  of  lime,  and  scatter  it  dry  all 
around,  and  into  their  holes,  and  wherever 
they  haunt,  and  they  will  leave  at  once. 

1899.  Phosphorus  Paste   for   Ver- 
min.    Introduce  1  drachm  phosphorus  into 
a  Florence  flask,  and  pour  over  it  1  ounce 
rectified    spirit.     Immerse  the  flask  in  ho1 
water  until  the  phosphorus  is  melted,  then 
put  a  well-fitting    cork    into  the  mouth  o: 
the  flask,  and  shake  briskly  until  cold.     The 
phosphorus  is  now  reduced  to  a  finely  dividec 
state.    This,  after  pouring  off  the  spirit,  is  to 
be  mixed  in  a  mortar  with  1  k  ounces  lard, 
ounces  flour  and  1^  ounces  brown  sugar,  pre- 
viously mixed  together,  are  now  added,  anc 
the  whole  made  into  a  paste  with  a  little 
water.     Cheese  may  be  substituted  for  sugar 
when  the  paste  is  intended  for  rats  or  mice 
There  is  said  to  be  no  danger  whatever  o: 
spontaneous  ignition,  either  during  or  after 
the  preparation  of  this  paste. 

1900.  An  Insect  Killer  and  Destroyer 
of  Noxious  Animals.     The  bisxilphide  o 


carbon  seems  to  be  useful  in  certain  cases, 
when  it  may  be  applied  without  inconvenience 
to  the  human  species.  In  an  atmosphere  con- 
taining ^V  of  its  volume,  it  has,  according  to 
Cloe'z,  a  very  rapid  action  on  the  animal  or- 
ganism, more  rapidly,  apparently,  upon  rats, 
rabbits,  <fcc.,  than  upon  birds  and  frogs.  Cloez 
ntroduced  If  ounces  bisulphide  in  a  culvert, 
nd  found  within  20  yards  from  the  place  some 
[0  dead  rats. 

1901.  To  Exterminate  Cockroaches. 
Borax  is  one  of  the  best  of  roach  extennina- 
x>rs.    There  is  something  peculiar,  either  in 
,he  smell  or  touch  of  borax,  which  is  certain 
death  to  them.     They  will  flee  in  terror  from 

t,  and  never  appear  again  where  it  has  once 
)een  placed.  It  has  also  the  great  advantage 
of  being  perfectly  harmless  to  human  beings ; 
lence  there  is  no  danger  from  poisoning.  The 
)orax  should  be  pulverized  and  sprinkled 
around  the  infested  places. 

1902.  To  Kill  Cockroaches  and  Cro- 
x>n  Bugs.     Boil  1  ounce  poke-root  in  1  pint 
water  until  the  strength  is  extracted;    mix 
the  decoction  with  molasses  and  spread  it  in 
jlates  in  the  kitchen  or  other  apartments 
which  are  infested  by  these  insects.     Paris 
*reen  sprinkled  around  the  apartments  will 
also  exterminate  them ;   but  should  be  used 
with  caution,  as  it  is  very  poisonous. 

1903.  To  Destroy  Bed-bugs.      Rub 
the  bedsteads  in  the  joints  with  equal  parts  of 
spirits  of  turpentine  and  kerosene  oil,  and  the 

racks  of  the  surbase  in  rooms  where  there 
are  many.  Filling  up  all  the  cracks  with  hard 
soap  is  an  excellent  remedy.  March  and 
April  are  the  months  when  bedsteads  should 
be  examined  to  kill  all  the  eggs. 

1904.  To  Destroy  Bed-bugs  in  Paper- 
ed Rooms.     Clean  the  paint  of  the   room 
thoroughly,  and  set  in  the  centre  of  the  room 
a  dish   containing  4    ounces    of   brimstone. 
Light  it  and  close  the  room  as  tight  as  possi- 
ble, stopping  the  keyhole  of  the  door  with  pa- 
per, to  keep  the  fumes  of  the  brimstone  in  the 
room.    Let  it  remain  for  3  or  4  hours,  then . 
open  the  windows  and  air  thoroughly.     The 
brimstone  will  be  found  to  have  also  bleached 
the  paint  if  it  was  a  yellowish  white. 

1905.  Bed-bug  Poison.     Mix  together 
2  ounces  camphor,  4  ounces  spirits  of  turpen- 
tine, 1  ounce  corrosive  sublimate,  and  1  pint 
alcohol. 

1906.  To  Kill  Bed-bugs.     Benzine  or 
gasoline  will  kill  these  pests  as  fast  as  they 
can  be  reached.    By  using  a  spring-bottom 
oiler,  the  fluid  may  be  forced  into  cracks  and 
crevices  more  thoroughly  than  by  any  other 
means.     As  this  fluid  is  highly  inflammable, 
contact  with  fire  must  be  avoided.     The  room 
should  be  well  aired  and  ventilated  afterwards, 
until  the  gas  passes  away.     (Sec  No.  346. ) 

1907.  To  Exterminate  Bed-bugs. 
"Wash  the  article  infested  with  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  chloride  of  zinc.  This  is  an  effectual 
banisher  of  these  pests. 

1908.  Benzine  as  an  Insect  Destroyer. 
A  mixture  of  10  parts  benzine,  5  parts  soap, 
and  85  parts  water,  has  been  very  successful- 
ly used  to  destroy  the  parasites  which  infest 
dogs.  It  has  also  been  used  with  good  results 
in  veterinary  practice,  as  an  application  in 
certain  diseases  of  the  skin  ;  and  thus  diluted, 
is  found  to  answer  better  than  when  used  pure. 


PREPARED    PAPER. 


193 


1909.  To   Disperse  Black  Ants.    A 
few  leaves   of   green    wormwood,   scattered 
among  the  haunts  of  these  troublesome  in- 
sects, is  said  to  be  effectual  in  dislodging  them. 
(See  No.  1848.) 

1910.  To   Exterminate   Bed  Ants. 
Grease  a  plate  with  lard,  and  set  it  where 
these  insects  abound.     They  prefer  lard  to  any- 
thing else,  and  will  forsake  sugar  for  it.     Place 
a  few  sticks  around  the  plate  for  the  ants  to 
climb  up  on.    Occasionally  turn  the  plate  bot- 
tom up  over  the  fire,  and  the  ants  will  fall  in 
with  the  melting  lard.     Reset  the  plate,  and 
in  a  short  time  you  will  catch  them  all.    Pow- 
dered borax  sprinkled  around  the    infested 
places  will  exterminate  both  red  and  black 
ants.     (See  No.  1901.) 

1911.  To  Kill  Flies.     Beat  up  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  with  a  table-spoonful  each  of  mo- 
lasses and  black  pepper  finely  ground ;  set  it 
about  in  shallow  plates  and  the  flies  will  be 
rapidly    killed.      A    sweetened    infusion    of 
quassia  will  answer  the  same  purpose.     Dis- 
solve 1  drachm  extract  of  quassia  m  a  gill  of 
water,  mix  with  £  gill  molasses  and  pour  the 
mixture  on  a  flat  dish  where  the  flies  have 
access.     The  quassia  acts  on  them  like  a  nar- 
cotic. 

1912.  Fly  Poison.     Boil  i  ounce  small 
chips  of  quassia  in  1  pint  water ;  add  4  ounces 
molasses.     Flies  drink  this  with  avidity,  and 
are  soon  destroyed  by  it. 

1913.  To  Banish  Fleas.     The  oil  of 
pennyroyal  will  certainly  drive  them  off;  but 
a  cheaper  method,  where  the  herb  flourishes, 
is  to  dip  dogs  and  cats  into  a  decoction  of  it 
once  a  week.    Mow  the  herb  and  scatter  it 
in  the  beds  of  the  pigs  once  a  mouth.    "Where 
the  herb  cannot  be  got,  the  oil  may  be  pro- 
cured.    In  this  case,  saturate  strings  with  it 
and  tie  them  around  the  necks  of  dogs  and 
cats,  pour  a  little  on  the  back  and  about  the 
ears  of  hogs,  which  you  can  do  while  they  are 
feeding,  without  touching  them.     By  repeat- 
ing these  applications  every  12  or  15  days,  the 
fleas  will  leave  the  animals.     Strings  saturated 
with  the  oil  of  pennyroyal,  and  tied  around 
the  neck  and  tail  of  horses,  will  drive  off  lice ; 
the  strings  should  be  saturated  once  a  day. 

1914.  To  Exterminate  Fleas.  Sprinkle 
chamomile  flowers  in  the  beds,  and  the  fleas 
will  leave. 

1915.  An  Excellent  Flea  Trap.     If 
you  should  happen  to  have  the  consciousness 
of  having  a  flea  about  your  person,  you  have 
but  to  introduce,  before  getting  into  bed,  a 
piece  of  new  flannel  between  the  sheets,  and 
you  may  depend  on  finding  yourself  forsaken 
for  tiie  flannel. 

1916.  To  Prevent  the  Attacks  of 
Gnats.  The  best  preventive  against  gnats, 
as  well  as  the  best  cure  for  their  stings,  is 
camphor. 

1917.  To  Clear  a  Room  of  Mosqui- 
toes.    Take  of  gum  camphor  a  piece  about  £ 
the  size  of  an  egg,  and  evaporate  it  by  placing 
it  in  a  tin  vessel,  and  holding  it  over  a  lamp 
or  candle,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  ignite. 
The  smoke  will  soon  fill  the  room,  and  expel 
the  mosquitoes. 

1918.  To  Keep   Away   Mosquitoes. 
Dip  a  piece  of  sponge  or  flannel  in  camphor- 
ated   spirits,   and   make  it  fast  to  the   top 
of  the  bedstead.    A  decoction  of  pennyroyal, 


or  some  of  the  bruised  leaves,  rubbed  on  the 
exposed  parts,  will  effectually  keep  off  those 
troublesome  insects. 

1919.  To  Destroy  Vermin  in  Child- 
ren's Heads.     Take  1  ounce  each  vinegar 
and  stavesacre,  i  ounce  each  honey  and  sul- 
phur, and  2  ounces  sweet  oil.    Make  into  a 
liniment,  and  rub  the  head  with  it.    Insects 
are  immediately  suffocated  by  benzine.    Those 
sometimes  found  in  the  heads  of  human  be- 
ings are  destroyed  by  it  at  once,  without  any 
inconvenient  result  being  perceived.    It  has 
been  employed  very  successfully  in  banish- 
ing the  insects  which  infest  domestic  animals, 
etc.     (See  No.   1906.)    The  use  of  larkspur 
seed  for  the  destruction  of  the  insects  infest- 
ing the  human  head  is  a  time-honored  appli- 
cation among  country  people — beds  of  the 
plant  being  cultivated  frequently  for  the  ex- 
press purpose  of  furnishing  material  for  the 
decoction.      The    efficiency  of  this  remedy 
seems  to  depend  on  the  presence  of  the  alka- 
loid called  delphine,  which  appears  to  be  a 
poison  especially  fatal  to  insects. 

1920.  To    Destroy    Body   Vermin. 
Apply  stavesacre  ointment  or  red  precipitate. 

1921.  To  Clean  Canary  Birds.    These 
pretty  things  are  often  covered  with  lice,  and 
may  be  effectually  relieved  of  them  by  placing 
a  clean  white  cloth  over  their  cage  at  night. 
In  the  morning  it  will  be  covered  with  small 
red    spots,   so  small  as  hardly  to  be  seen, 
except  by  the  aid  of  a  glass ;   these  are  the 
lice,  a  source  of  great  annoyance  to  the  birds. 

1922.  Lice    on   Poultry.     If  infested 
with  lice,  damp  the  skin  under  the  feathers 
with  water,  then  sprinkle  a  little  sulphur  on 
the  skin.    If  the  bird  be  covered  with  insects 
or  parasites,  they  will  all  disappear  in  the 
course  of  12  hours. 

1923.  Tp  Drive  Flies  from  Stables. 
Scatter  chloride  of  lime  on  a  board  in  a  stable, 
to  remove  all  kinds  of  flies,  but  more  especial- 
ly biting  flies.     Sprinkling  beds  of  vegetables 
with  even  a  weak  solution,  effectually  pre- 
serves them  from  caterpillars,  slugs,  <fcc.    A 
paste  of  1  part  powdered  chloride  of  lime  and 
^  part  of  some  fatty  matter  placed  in  a  narrow 
band  round  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  prevents  in- 
sects from  creeping  up  it.     Even  rats,  mice, 
cockroaches,  and  crickets  flee  from  it. 

1924.  To  Keep  Flies  from  Horses. 
Procure  a  bunch  of  smartweed,  and  bruise  it 
to  cause  the  juice  to  exude.    Rub  the  animal 
thoroughly  with  the  bunch  of  bruised  weed, 
especially  on  the  legs,  neck,  and  ears.  Neither 
flies  or  other  insects  will  trouble  him  for  24 
hours.    The  process  should  be  repeated  eveiy 
day.    A  very  convenient  way  of  using  it,  is 
to  make  a  strong  infusion  by  boiling  the  weed 
a  few  minutes  in  water.     When  cold  it  can  be 
conveniently  applied  with  a  sponge  or  brush. 
Smartweed  is  found  growing  in  every  section 
of  the  country,  usually  on  wet  ground  near 
highways. 

Prepared  Paper.  Paper  fre- 
quently requires  some  special  prepara- 
tion to  fit  it  for  many  purposes  for  which 
it  would  be  useless  in  its  original  state.  The 
following  methods  of  preparing  paper  will  bo 
found  useful,  and  in  some  cases  indispensable, 
for  reference. 


194: 


PREPARED    PAPER. 


1926.  To  Make  Transfer  Paper.    To 

prepare  transfer  paper,  take  some  thin  post 
or  tissue  paper,  rub  the  surface  well  with 
black  lead,  vermilion,  red  chalk,  or  any  color- 
ing matter;  wipe  this  preparation  well  off 
with  a  piece  of  clean  rag,  and  it  will  be  ready 
for  use. 

1927.  To  Make  Tracing  Paper  with 
Petroleum.    Saturate  ordinary  writing  paper 
with  petroleum  by  means  ofSa  brush,  then 
wipe  it  off  until  it  is  dry.    This  makes  a 
tracing   paper    equal   to    the    manufactured 
article,  for  all    ordinary  purposes.      It  was 
discovered  by  Mr.   Hansel/  an  architect  at 
jS"eustadt. 

1928.  To  Make  Tracing  Paper  with 
Benzine.     If  paper  be  damped  with  pure 
and  fresh  distilled  benzine,  it  at  once  assumes 
a  transparency,  and  permits  of  the  tracing  be- 
ing made,  and  of  ink  or  water  colors  being 
used  on  its  surface    without    any  running. 
The  paper  resumes  its  opacity  as  the  benzine 
evaporates,  and  if  the  drawing  is  not  then 
completed,  the  requisite  portion  of  the  paper 
must  be  again  damped  with  benzine.    This 
new  discovery  of  the  properties  of  benzine 
will  prove  of  great  service  to  many  branches 
of  the  art  profession,  in  allowing  the  use  of 
stiff'  paper  where  formerly  only  a  slight  tissue 
could  be  used. 

1929.  To  Make  Transparent  or  Tra- 
cing Paper.     Dissolve  a  piece  of  white  bees' 
wax,  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  in  •£  pint 
spirits  of  turpentine ;    then  having  procured 
some  very  fine  white,  woven  tissue  paper,  lay 
it  on  a  clean  board,  and,  with  a  soft  brush 
dipped  in  this  liquid,  go  over  one  side,  and 
then  turn  it  over  and  apply  it  to  the  other ; 
hang  it  up  in  a  place  free  from  dust  to  dry. 
It  will  be  ready  for  use  in  a  few  days.     Some 
add  a  small  quantity  of  resin,  or  use  resin  in- 
stead of  wax. 

1930.  To  Make  Tracing  Paper.    Lay 
open  a  quire  of  paper,  of  large  size,  and  apply 
with  a  clean  sash  tool  a  coat  of  varnish,  made 
of  equal  parts  of  Canada  balsam  and  oil  of 
turpentine,  to  the  upper  surface  of  the  first 
sheet,  then  hang  it  on  a  line,  and  repeat  the 
operation  on  fresh  sheets  until  the  proper 
quantity  is  finished.    If  not  sufficiently  trans- 
parent, a  second  coat  of  varnish  may  be  ap- 
plied as  soon  as  the  first  has  become  quite 
dry. 

1931.  Iridescent  Paper.    Boil  in  wa- 
ter, 8  parts  nut-galls,  5  parts  sulphate  of  iron, 
4  parts  each  sal  ammoniac  and  sulphate  of  in- 
digo, and  £  part  gum-arabic.    "Wash  the  paper 
in  this  decoction,  and  then  expose  it  to  am- 
monia. 

1932.  To   Powder   Glass.     Heat  the 
glass  red-hot,  throw  it  into  cold  water ;  dry, 
and  pulverize  it,  coarse  or  fine  as  required,  in 
an  iron  mortar.    It  is  used  to  filter  acids ;  is 
glued  upon  paper  or  muslin  for  polishing ;  also 
to  rub  down  corns  upon  the  feet,  after  they 
have  well  soaked  and  dried. 

1933.  To  Make  Glass  Paper  or  Cloth. 
Powder  the  glass  (that  with  a  greenish  hue 
is  the  best),  and  sift  it  through  a  very  fine 
wire  sieve,  to  separate  the  finest  portion  of 
the  powder ;  this  is  for  the  smoothest  degree 
of  glass  paper;  sift  the  remainder  successively 
through  sieves  gradually  increasing  in  coarse- 
ness, to  suit  the  different  degrees  of  the  glass 


paper  required;  keep  the  result  of  each  sifting 
separate.  Then  smooth  on  both  sides,  with 
pumice  stone,  any  good  tough  paper,  and 
tack  it  on  a  board ;  a  tolerably  fine  quality 
of  muslin  is  far  preferable  to  paper.  If  large 
sheets  are  used  it  is  better  to  glue  the  edges 
on  a  frame  (similar  to  a  small  quilting  frame), 
and  when  dry,  damp  the  paper  or  muslin  and 
stretch  it,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  muslin 
is  strained  for  sized  roller  blinds.  Give  the 
surface  a  coating  of  strong  glue  size,  and  im- 
mediately dust  the  glass  of  the  required  fine- 
ness equally  and  thoroughly  all  over,  using 
the  same  sieve  that  was  used  to  separate  it 
from  the  rest  of  the  powdered  glass.  "When 
dry,  throw  off  the  surplus  glass  for  future  use. 

1934.  To  Make  Stone  Paper.    As,  in 
cleaning   wood-work,,  particularly  pine    and 
other  soft  woods,  one  process  is  sometimes 
found  to  answer  better  than  another,  we  may 
describe  the  manner  of  manufacturing  a  stone 
paper,  which,  in  some  cases,  will  be  preferred 
to  sand  paper,  as  it  produces  a  good  face,  and 
is  less  liable  to  scratch  the  work.     Having 
prepared  the  paper  as  described  in  the  last  re- 
ceipt, take  a  quantity  of  powdered  pumice 
stone,  and  sift  it  over  the  paper  through  a 
sieve  of  moderate  fineness.    "When  the  sur- 
face has  hardened,  repeat  the  process  till  a 
tolerably  thick  coat  has  been  formed  upon  the 
paper,  which,  when  dry,  will  be  fit  for  use. 

1 935.  To  Make  Emery  Paper  or  Cloth. 
This  is  prepared  in  precisely  the  same  man- 
ner as  glass    paper    (see  No.   1933),    using 
emery  instead  of  glass. 

1936.  Phenyl    Paper.       This    article 
would  be  useful  for  packing  meat  and  other 
substances  liable  to  decay.     (See  No.  1614.) 
It  can  be  prepared  by  fusing  5  parts  stearic 
acid  at  a  gentle  heat,   mixing   well  with  2 
parts  carbolic  acid  and  5  parts  melted-  paraf- 
fine,  and  stirring  until  the  whole  has  become 
solid,  and  applying  it  to  paper  in  the  same 
manner  as  waxed  paper  is  made.     (See  No. 
1938.) 

1937.  Solvent  for  Silk,  Paper,  Sec. 
The  ammonio-oxide  of  copper  is  a  solvent  for 
silk,  paper,  and  the  cellular  tissue  of  plants. 
If  its  action  be  limited  to  a  few  moments  it 
converts  the  surfaces  into  a  gelatinous  mass. 

1938.  To  Make  Waxed  Paper.     Take 
cartridge  or  other  paper,  place  it  on  a  hot 
iron  and  rub  it  with  bees'  wax,  or  make  a  so- 
lution of  the  wax  in  turpentine,  and  apply  it 
with  a  brush.     It  is  generally  prepared  on  a 
large  scale  by  taking  a  quire  of  paper  and 
opening  it  flat  upon  a  table,  and  then  going 
over  it  quickly  with  a  very  hot  smoothing-iron, 
against  which  is  held  a  piece  of  wax,  which, 
melting,  runs  down  upon  the  paper  and  is 
absorbed  by  it.     A  little  practice  will  soon 
determine  the  amount  of  wax  that  should  be 
melted  off  from  time  to  time.    When  the 
upper  sheet  is  saturated  it  is  taken  off,  and 
the  one  below  is  treated  in  a  similar  manner. 
Any  excess  of  wax  applied  in  the  first  instance 
readily  penetrates  through  to  the  lower  layers. 
Useful  for  making  water  or  air-proof  pipes, 
for  chemical  experiments,  also  for  tying  up 
the  necks  of  bottles,  covering  preserve  jars, 
and  for  enveloping  tobacco  and  other  substan- 
ces that  require  to  be  kept  from  the  air,  re- 
placing  generally   tin-foil  and   similar  sub- 
stances. 


PREPARED    PAPER. 


195 


1939.  To  Make  Oiled  Paper.    Brush 
sheets  of  paper  over  with  boiled  oil,  ill  which 
dissolve  a  little  shellac  carefully  over  a  slow 
fire,  and  suspend  them  on  a  line  until  dry. 
"Waterproof.     Employed  to  tie  over  pots  and 
jars,  and  to  wrap  up  paste  blacking,  &c. 

1940.  Oiled  Paper  as  a  Substitute  for 
Oiled   Silk.     Boiled  linseed  oil  is  reboiled 
with  litharge,   acetate  of  lead,   sulphate  of 
zinc,  and  burnt  umber,  an  ounce  of  each  to  a 
gallon.    The  sheet  of  paper  being  laid  on  a 
square  board,  it  is  well  covered  with  this 
mixture.     The  first  sheet  is  covered  on  both 
sides ;  the  second,  placed  on  this,  receives  one 
coating ;  and  so  on  to  20  or  50.     Separate  and 
hang  up  to  dry. 

1941.  To  Make  Paper  Fire  and  Wa- 
terproof.     Take    26    ounces    alum,   and   4 
ounces  white  soap,   and  dissolve  them  in  a 
quart  of  water;  into  another  vessel  dissolve 
2  ounces  gum-arabic  and  1  ounce  glue,  in  the 
same  quantity  of  water  as  the  former,  and 
add  the  two  solutions  together,  which  is  now 
to  be  kept  warm,  and  the  paper  intended  to 
be  made  waterproof  dipped  into  it,  passed 
between  rollers,  and  dried ;  or,  without  the  use 
of  rollers,  the  paper  may  be  suspended  until 
it  has  perfectly  dripped,  and  then  dried.     The 
alum,  soap,   glue,  and  gum,  form  a  kind  of 
artificial  leather,  which  protects  the  surface 
of  the  paper  from  the  action  of  water,  and 
also  renders  it  somewhat  fireproof.    A  second 
immersion  makes  it  still  better. 

1942.  To    Make  Fireproof  Paper. 
Take  a  solution  of  alum  and  dip  the  paper 
into  it,  then  throw  it  over  a  line  to  dry.    This 
is  suitable  to  all  sorts  of  paper,  whether  plain 
or  colored,  as  well  as  textile  fabrics.     Try  a 
slip  of  the  paper  in  the  flame  of  a  candle,  and 
if  not  sufficiently  prepared,  dip  and  try  it  a 
second  time. 

1943.  To    Make    Fireproof  Paper. 
Newspapers  may  be    rendered  fireproof    by 
dipping  into  a  solution  of  soluble  glass  of  25° 
Baurne ;  next  neutralizing  the  alkali  by  dilu- 
ted muriatic  acid  of  10°  Baume  while  hot, 
and  drying  by  the  atmosphere.     Fire  cannot 
then  destroy  the  texture  of  the  paper. 

1944.  To  Make  Paper  Waterproof. 
Melt  in  10  pints  hot  water,  30  ounces  glue, 
gelatine  or  size,  and  3  ounces  gum-arabic.     In 
another  30  pints  hot  water,  melt  20  ounces 
soap  and  4  .pounds  alum;   mix  both  liquids 
together  in  one  pot.     This  constitutes  compo- 
sition No.  1.     In  another  pot  heat  •£  gallon 
benzole  and  1  gallon  paraffine,  and  melt  in  it 
24  ounces  resin ;  let  it  boil  until  it  attains  a 
moderate   degree   of   consistency.     To  these 
materials,  resin,  oil,  and  copal  or  mastic  var- 
nish may,  in  some  cases,  be  added.     This  is 
composition  No.  2.     First  dip  the  article  to  be 
waterproof  into  the  composition  No.  1  in  a 
heated  state,  and  then  dry  it.     Next  apply 
composition  No.  2,  in  a  cooled  state,  with  a 
brush,  or  in  any  other  convenient  manner. 

1945.  Papier-Mache.     A  plastic  mate- 
rial, formed  of  cuttings  of  white  or  brown 
paper,  boiled  in  water,  beaten  to  a  paste  in  a 
mortar,  and  then  mixed  with  a  solution  of 
gum-arabic  in  size,  to   give  tenacity.     It  is 
variously  manufactured  by  being  pressed  into 
oiled  moulds,  afterwards  dried,  covered  with 
a  mixture  of  size  and  lamp-black,  or  other- 
wise ornamented,  and  varnished. 


1946.  To    Detect   the  Presence   of 
Plaster  in  Paper.     Calcine  the  paper  in  a 
close  vessel,  and  dilute  the  residue  with  vine- 
gar, in  a  silver  spoon ;  if  sulphuretted  hydro- 
gen is  disengaged,  which  blackens  the  spoon, 
the  presence  of  a  sulphate  (plaster)  will  be 
shown.    This  adulteration  has  lately  become 
very  common  among  the  paper-makers,  with 
the  view  of  increasing  the  weight. 

1947.  To   Detect   Woody  Fibre   in 
Paper.     The  paper  is  touched  with  ordinary 
strong  nitric  acid.    If  wood  fibre  is  present 
the  paper  will  be  colored  brown,  especially  on 
warming. 

1948.  Magic   Copying   Paper.      To 
make  black  paper,   take  lamp-black    mixed 
with  cold  lard.     Eed  paper  —  Venetian  red 
mixed  with  lard.    Blue  paper — Prussian  blue 
mixed  with  lard.    Green  paper — chrome  green 
mixed  with  lard.    The  above  ingredients  to 
be  mixed  to  the  consistency  of  thick  paste, 
and  applied  to  the  paper  with  a  rag.     Then 
take  a  flannel  rag,  and  rub  until  all  the  color 
ceases  coming  off.    These  sheets,  alternated 
with  writing  paper  and  written  on  with  a 
solid  pen,  produce  2  or  3  copies  of  a  letter  at 
once. 

1949.  Manifold   Copying   Process. 
This  is  a  method  patented  by  Mr.  Underwood, 
of  London,  for  taking  copies  of  writing  by 
pressure ; .  by  this  means  as  many  as  twenty 
copies  or  more  of  a  letter  or  other  writing  can 
be  obtained. 

The  copying  paper  is  prepared  by  being 
wetted  with  a  solution  of  200  grains  of  the 
yellow  or  neutral  chromate  of  potash  in  1  gal- 
lon of  distilled  water.  This  paper  can  be 
used  immediately,  or  may  be  dried,  and 
damped  with  water  when  required  for  use. 
The  copying  ink  to  be  used  for  the  original 
writing  must  be  made  by  dissolving  (in  a 
water-bath)  about  6  pounds  pure  extract  of 
logwood  in  1  gallon  distilled  water. 

Damp  6  sheets  of  the  prepared  paper,  and 
remove  all  superfluous  moisture  with  good 
blotting  paper,  place  the  original  writing  on 
the  upper  sheet,  and  put  in  the  copying-press 
for  about  half  a  minute;  then  remove  the 
original  and  substitute  in  its  place  6  more 
damp  sheets  of  the  paper,  and  press  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  Then  take  the  original 
again  and  lay  it  on  the  top  of  5  more  damped 
sheets  of  the  paper,  and  press  for  about  two 
minutes ;  finally  remove  the  original,  and  in  its 
place  put  3  more  sheets  of  the  paper,  then 
press  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  This  process 
will  give  twenty  copies.  If  more  than  twenty 
copies  are  to  be  made,  the  writing  of  the 
original  should,  before  the  ink  is  quite  dry,  be 
dusted  over  with  a  powder  composed  of  5 
parts  extract  of  logwood,  1  part  powdered 
gum-arabic,  and  1  part  powdered  gum-traga- 
canth. 

1950.  Process  for  Copying  Very  Old 
Writings.      Niepec  St.  Victor  gives  a  new- 
process  for  copying  very  old  writings.     Ordi- 
nary copying  paper  is  used,  but  is  wetted  with 
a  thin  solution  of  glucose  or  honey  instead 
of  water.     On  coming  out  of  the  press  the 
paper  is  exposed  to  strong  ammonia,  which" 
brings  out  very  clearly  lines  otherwise  almost 
illegible. 

1951.  To  Prepare  Paper  for  Varnish- 
ing.    To  prevent  the  absorption  of  varnish, 


196 


PREPARED    PAPER. 


and  injury  to  any  color  or  design  on  the  pa- 
per, it  is  necessary  to  first  give  it  2  or  3  coats 
of  size.  The  best  size  for  white  or  delicate 
colors  is  made  by  dissolving  a  little  isinglass 
in  boiling  water,  or  by  boiling  some  clean 

Earchment  cuttings  until  they  form  a  clear  so- 
ition;  then  strain  through  a  piece  of  clean 
muslin.  It  may  be  applied  with  a  clean  soft 
paint-brush,  the  first  coat,  especially,  very 
lightly.  The  best  brush  for  this  purpose  is 
the  kind  used  by  varnishers  for  giving  the 
finishing  flow  coats  of  varnish,  wide,  flat  and 
soft ;  or,  where  there  is  much  danger  of  injur- 
ing a  design,  and  the  paper  article  will  allow 
of  it,  it  is  a  good  plan  for  the  first  coat,  to 
pour  the  solution  into  a  wide,  flat  dish,  and 
pass  the  paper  through  it  once,  and  back 
again,  and  then  hang  it  up  to  dry.  For  less 
delicate  purposes,  a  little  light-colored  glue, 
soaked  over  night  in  enough  water  to  cover  it, 
and  then  dissolved  by  heat,  adding  hot  water 
enough  to  dilute  it  sufficiently,  will  make  an 
excellent  sizing. 

1952.  To  Size  Paper.    The  paper  must 
be  passed  or  steeped  in  a  mixture  of  glue  and 
alum  water.    For  transparent  or  semi-trans- 
parent paper,  a  mixture  of  starch,  or  dextrine 
and  alum. 

1953.  Albuminous  Size.     Beat  up  the 
white  of  an  egg  with  twice  its  bulk  of  cold 
water,  until  well  incorporated.     Used  as  a 
varnish  for  leather  binding  and  kid  gloves; 
also  to  size  drawing  paper. 

1954.  Pounce.     Powdered  gum  sanda- 
rac  generally  passes  under  this  name;  it  is 
used  to  prepare  parchment  for  writing  on,  and 
to  prevent  ink  from  spreading  on  paper  after 
erasure.     Powdered  cuttle-fish  bone  is  occa- 
sionally used  in  the  same  way.     Packers  rub 
the  surface  of  porous  and  greasy  wood  with  a 
pounce  consisting  of  whiting  or  powdered 
resin,  to  make  it  bear  the  ink.    The  colored 
powders  (usually  ultramarine)  used  by  pat- 
tern drawers,  for  sprinkling  over  pricked  pa- 
pers, are  also  called  pounce. 

1955.  Lithographic  Paper.     In  order 
to  prevent  the  ink  tracings  or  design  from  ad- 
hering to  and  sinking  into  the  paper,  which 
would  render  a  perfect  transfer  to  the  stone 
impossible,  the  surface  of  the  paper  requires 
proper  preparation. 

1956.  To  Prepare  Lithographic  Pa- 
per.    Lay  on  the  paper  3  successive  coats  of 
sheep-foot  jelly,  1  layer  of  cold  white  starch, 
and  1  layer  of  gamboge.    The  first  layer  is 
applied  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  a  hot  solu- 
tion of  the  jelly,  thinly,  but  very  evenly,  over 
the  whole  surface ;  the  next  2  coats  are  laid 
on  in  succession,  each  previous  coat  being  first 
allowed  to  dry.   The  layer  of  starch,  and  then 
the  coat  of  gamboge,  are  each  applied  with  a 
sponge  in  the  same  way  as  the  jelly.     "When 
the  paper  is  dry  it  must  be  smoothed  by  pass- 
ing it  through  the  lithographic  press;   the 
smoother  it  becomes,  the  better.     The  trans- 
fer of  traces  from  the  gamboge  surface  of 
paper  thus  prepared  is  perfect. 

The  gamboge  must  be  dissolved  the  same 
day  it  is  used,  as  it  becomes  oily  by  standing. 
The  starch  should  be  a  day  old,  and  the  skin 
removed  from  its  surface. 

1957.  Lithographic     Paper.       Take 
rather  strong,  unsized  paper,   and  cover  it 
with  a  varnish  composed  of  120  parts  starch, 


40  parts  gum-arabic  and  20  parts  alum.  Make 
a  moderate  paste  of  the  starch  by  boiling, 
dissolve  the  gum  and  alum  separately,  and 
then  mix  all  together.  "When  well  mixed, 
apply  hot  with  a  flat,  smooth  brush,  to  the 
leaves  of  paper.  Then  dry  and  smooth  by 
passing  under  the  scraper  of  the  lithographic 
press. 

1958.  Bernard  and  Delarne's  Litho- 
graphic Crayons.     Melt  4  parts  pure  white 
wax  over  a  slow  fire;   stir  m  by  degrees  2 
parts  gum  lac,  broken  into  small  pieces;  next 
mix  in  2  parts  dried  soap  (made  of  tallow  and 
soda),  reduced  to  fine  shavings ;  then  stir  in 
1  part  oil  copal  varnish  into  which  1  part 
lampblack  has  been  previously  ground.   Con- 
tinue to  heat  and  stir  until  the  paste  has  ac- 
quired  a  proper  consistence,   which   can  be 
ascertained  by  forming  a  crayon  with  it  in  a 
mould,  and  allowing  it  to  become  cold.     The 
mould  should  be  first  wiped  with  a  greased 
rag. 

Lasteyrie  adopts  a  somewhat  different  for- 
mula for  his  crayons :  Dried  white  tallow 
soap,  6  parts;  white  wax,  6  parts;  lampblack, 
1  part.  The  soap  and  tallow  are  to  be  put 
into  a  small  goblet  and  covered  up.  "When 
the  whole  is  thoroughly  fused  by  heat,  and 
no  clots  remain,  the  black  is  gradually  sprin- 
kled in  with  careful  stirring. 

1959.  Rouget's  Method  of  Preserv- 
ing Pencil  Drawings.     This  invention  con- 
sists in  fixing  drawings,  tracings,  or  sketches, 
by  directly  projecting  on  these  latter  any  suit- 
able adhesive  liquid  reduced  to  a  fine  spray, 
or  in  what  is  commonly  called  the  atomized  or 
pulverized  state,  by  causing  the  liquid  to  pass 
rapidly  under  pressure  through  one  or  more 
capillary  tubes  or  openings.     By  this  method 
the  defects  of  the  transudation  process  are 
entirely  done  away  with,  besides  which  the 
operation  is  executed  in  less  time,  and  may 
be  performed  at  once  by  the  artist  without 
the  slightest  difficulty.     For  the  fixing  liquid, 
any  colorless,  or  nearly  colorless  liquid,  which 
allows  of  being  atomized,  and  which,  after 
becoming  dry,   causes  the  particles  of   the 
charcoal,  or  other  drawing  materials  made  use 
of,  to  adhere  sufficiently  firmly  to  the  paper 
or  other  drawing  surface,  may  serve  for  the 
purpose.     Thus,  for  instance,  a  liquid  which 
has  given  the  most  satisfactory  results  is  ob- 
tained by  adding  to  a  solution  of  3  ounces 
white  sugar  candy  and  2  ounces  white  shellac, 
in  about  2  pints  spirits  of  wine,  a  decoction 
of  about  1  ounce  fucus  crispus  (Irish  moss) 
in  1  pint  distilled  water. 

1960.  To  Fix  Pencil  or  Chalk  Draw- 
ings.    Lay  the  drawing  on  its  face,  stretch  it 
tightly  on  a  board  with   drawing   pins,  and 
give  the  back  2  or  3  coats  of  a  solution  of  5 
parts  isinglass,   or  gum-arabic,   in   12  parts 
water,  using  a  varnisher's  flow  brush,   and 
allowing  each  coat  to  dry  before  laying  on  the 
next.     "When  dry,  turn  the  drawing  over,  face 
upwards,  and  give  it  1  or  2  coats  in  the  same 
manner.    This  will  usually  be  sufficient  to 
fix  the  drawing,  but  the  addition  of  1  or  2 
coats  of  a  solution  of  4  parts  Canada  balsam, 
in  5  parts  turpentine,  will  afford  still  further 
protection. 

1 961 .  To  Fix  Pencil  or  Crayon  Draw- 
ings.    A  convenient  method  of  fixing  pencil 
or  crayon  drawings  consists  in  moistening  the 


PEEPAEED    PAPER. 


197 


back  of  the  sheet  with  a  solution  of  bleached 
shellac  in  alcohol,  care  being  taken  not  to 
have  the  solution  either  too  concentrated  or 
too  thin,  but  such  as  will  flow  readily  on  the 

Eaper,  making  it  transparent  when  moist,  and 
javing  no  spots  behind  on  evaporation.  In 
this  way  the  drawings  will  become  perma- 
nently fixed,  and  may  afterward  be  painted  in 
water- colors  so  as  to  produce  a  very  excellent 
effect. 

1962.  To   Fix  Pencil  Drawings.     A 
simple  method,  and  sufficient  for  general*pur- 
poses,  is  to  put  into  a  large  flat  dish,  a  mixture 
of  equal  parts  milk  and  water.     The  back  of 
the  drawing  should  be  floated  over  the  surface 
of  the  milk  and  water  once  or  twice,  according 
to  the  thickness  of  the  paper,  sufficient  to 
wet  it  through,  but  not  enough  to  allow  any 
of  the  liquid  to  run  on  the  surface  of  the 
drawing.     Pin  it  on  a  line  to  dry.     Some  pre- 
fer using  pure  milk. 

1963.  To  Take  Creases  out  of  Draw- 
ing Paper  or  Engravings.     Lay  the  paper 
or  engraving,   face    downwards,   on  a  sheet 
of   smooth,   unsized    white  paper;    cover  it 
with  another  sheet  of  the  same,  very  slight- 
ly damped,  and  iron  with  a  moderately  warm 
flat  iron. 

1964.  To  Make  Parchment  Trans- 
parent.    Soak  a  thin  skin  of  parchment  in  a 
strong  lye  of  wood  ashes,  often  wringing  it 
out  till  you  find  it  becomes  transparent ;  then 
strain  it  on  a  frame,  and  let  it  dry.    This  will 
be  much  improved  if,  after  it  is  dry,  it  receives 
a  coat,  on  both  sides,  of  clear  mastic  varnish, 
diluted  with  spirits  of  turpentine. 

1965.  To  Make  Artificial  Parchment. 
De  la  Kue's  patent.     Strong  unsized  paper  is 
immersed  for  a  few  seconds  in  oil  of  vitriol, 
diluted  with  half  its  volume  of  water.     It  is 
then  washed  in  pure  water  or  weak  ammonia 
water.     It  strongly  resembles  animal  parch- 
ment,  and  is  used  for  the  same   purposes. 
The  acid  solution  must  be  exactly  of  the 
strength  indicated,  and  not  warmer  than  the 
surrounding  atmosphere. 

1966.  To  Paste  Parchment  Paper. 
Thick,  smooth  paper  does  not  generally  hold 
long  when  pasted  together  or  on  wood.     This 
difficulty  is  easily  overcome.     If  the  surface 
of  that  part  of  the  paper  which  is  to  be  joined 
be  first  moistened  with  alcohol  or  brandy,  and 
the  glue  or  paste  then  be  applied,  the  union 
will  be  perfect.     A  piece  of  very  thin  paper 
inserted  between  the  surfaces  of  the  parch- 
ment paper  will  also  make  a  firm  joint.     Glue 
or  paste  should  be  used,  as  gum-arabic  will  not 
answer. 

1 967.  New  Method  of  Making  Parch- 
ment Paper.     An  improved  method  of  pre- 
paring this  substance,  consists  in  using  the 
commercial  oil  of  vitriol  in  an  undiluted  state. 
The  paper  is  first  passed  through  a  solution  of 
alum,  and  thoroughly  dried,  previous  to  its 
immersion,  thus  preventing  any  undue  action 
of  the  corrosive  principle  of  the  vitriol.     After 
the  application  of  the  acid,  the  paper  is  passed 
into  a  vat  of  water,  and  then  through  an  alka- 
line bath,  to  be  again  washed.    Written  and 
printed  paper  may  undergo  this  improved  pro- 
cess without  materially  affecting  the  clearness 
and  distinctness  of  the  letters,  and  the  paper 
retains  all  its  qualities,  even  after  being  wetted 
several  times  in  succession,  while  paper  pre- 


pared in  the  usual  manner  loses,  to  a  great 
extent,  its  pliancy,  and  becomes  hard  and 
stiff. 

1968.  Papyrine.      Dip  white  unsized 
paper  for  i  a  minute  in  strong  sulphuric  acid, 
and  afterwards  in  water  containing  a  little 
ammonia.    When  dried  it  has  the  toughness 
and  appearance  of  parchment. 

1969.  To  Color  Parchment.     The  only 
color  given  to  parchment  is  green.     Boil  8 
parts  cream  of  tartar  and  30  parts  crystallized 
verdigris,  in  500  parts  water ;  when  this  solu- 
tion is  cold,  pour  into  it  4  parts  nitric  acid. 
Moisten  the  parchment  with  a  brush,  and  then 
apply  the  above  liquid  evenly  over  its  surface. 
The  necessary  surface  finish  is  given  with 
white  of  eggs,  or  mucilage  of  gum-arabic. 

1970.  Composition  for  Drawing 
Crayons.  Take  6  parts  shellac,  4  parts 
spirit  of  wine,  2  parts  turpentine,  12  parts  of 
coloring  powder,  such  as  Prussian  blue,  orpi- 
ment,  white  lead,  vermilion,  &c.,  and  12  parts 
clay.  The  clay  must  be  thoroughly  washed, 
passed  through  a  hair  sieve  and  dried ;  it  is 
then  well  incorporated  by  trituration  with  the 
shellac  (previously  dissolved  in  the  spirits  of 
wine),  the  turpentine  and  the  coloring  pig- 
ment. The  doughy  mass  is  pressed  in  proper 
moulds  so  as  to  acquire  the  desired  shape,  and 
then  dried  by  stove  heat. 

1971.  Charcoal   Crayons.      Saw   the 
finest-grained,  softest,  and  blackest  pieces  of 
charcoal,  into  slips  of  the  size  required,  put 
them  into  a  pipkin  of  melted  wax,  and  allow 
them  to  macerate  over  a  slow  fire  for  half  3n 
hour,  then  take  them  out  and  lay  them  on 
blotting-paper  to  dry.      The  above  process 
may  also  be  employed  for  red  and  black  chalk. 
Drawings  made  with  these  cravons  are  very 
permanent,   and  if  warmed  slightly  on  the 
wrong  side,  the  lines  will  adhere  and  become 
as  durable  as  ink.     These  crayons  may  also 
be  made  by  simply  shaping  the  charcoal  with 
a  knife.    Willow  charcoal  should  be  used  for 
this  purpose. 

1972.  To  Clean  Engravings.     Secure 
the  engraving  with  drawing  pins  on  a  smooth 
board,  and  cover  it  thinly  with  common  salt, 
finely  powdered ;    pour  and  squeeze  lemon 
juice  upon  this  salt,  so  as  to  dissolve  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  it.    N"ow  elevate  one  end 
of  the  board,  that  it  may  form  an  angle  of 
about  45°  with  the  horizon.     Pour  lastly  on 
the  engraving  boiling  water  from  a  tea-kettle, 
until  the  salt  and  lemon  juice  be  all  washed 
off;  the  engraving  will  then  appear  perfectly 
clean,  and  free  from  stains.     It  must  be  dried 
gradually,  on  the  same  board,  or  on  some 
smooth  surface.     (See  Nos.  411,  ^c.) 

1973.  To  Clean  Printed  Paper  and 
Picture  Prints.     Septimus  Piesse  gives  the 
following  receipt  for  that  purpose :   Fasten 
the  paper  to  a  board  with  button  drawing 
pins,  then  wash  it  with  water  in  which  is 
dissolved  an  ounce  of  carbonate  of  ammonia 
to  every  pint  of  water.    This  do  with  care, 
employing  a  camePs-hair  brush  for  the  pur- 
pose.   Then  rinse  the  paper  well  with  plenty 
of  fresh  water.     When  dry,  repeat  the  same 
process  for  the  reverse  side  of  the  paper. 
;N"ow  wet  the  paper  with  water  made  sour 
with  white  vinegar.     Finally  wet  the  paper 
with  water  containing  a  little  bleaching  pow- 
der, and  again  rinse  with  clean  water;  then 


198 


IVOET,    ALABASTER,    ETC. 


iron. 
1985. 


dry  it  by  exposure  to  air  and  sunshine.    It !  ployed  for  woolens,  after  being  freed  from  dirt 

will  become  white,  excepting  where  printed.   "--1 1™t -1-1 '-" 

To  stiffen  the  print  give  it  a  coat  of  parchment 
size.  Most  valuable  prints  have  been  thus 
restored. 

1974.  To   Transfer    Engravings    to 
Paper.     Place  the  engraving  a  few  seconds 
over  the  vapor  of  iodine.     Dip  a  slip  of  white 
paper  in  a  weak  solution  of  starch,  and,  when 
dry,  in  a  weak  solution  of  oil  of  vitriol.  When 
again  dry,  lay  a  slip  upon  the  engraving,  and 
place  both  for  a  few  minutes  under  a  press. 
The  engraving  will  be  reproduced  in  all  its 
delicacy  and  finish. 

1975.  To  Print  Engravings  on  Plas- 
ter.    Cover  the  engraved  plate  with  ink,  and 
polish  its  surface  in  the  usual  way ;   then  put 
a  wall  of  paper  round  it,   and,  when  com- 
pleted, pour  in  some  finely-powdered  plaster 
of  Paris  mixed  in  water;  jerk  the  plate  re- 
peatedly, to  allow  the  air  bubbles  to  fly  up- 
wards, and  let  it  stand  1  hour ;  then  take  the 
cast  off  the  plate,  and  a  very  perfect  impres- 
sion will  be  the  result. 

1976.  Hydrographic  Paper.     This  is 
a  name  given  to  paper  so  prepared,  that,  when 
written  upon  with  water,  or  some  other  color- 
less fluid,  instead  of  ink,  the  characters  will 
become  visible. 

1977.  To  Write    Black    Characters 
with  Water.     Thoroughly  dry  and  reduce 
to  a  very  fine  powder  a  mixture  of  4  parts 
nut-galls,  and  1  part  calcined  sulphate  of  iron ; 
rub  it  over  the  surface  of  the  paper,  then 
forcing  it  into  the  pores  by  powerful  pressure ; 
brush  off  the  loose  portion,  and  a  pen  dipped 


in  water  will  write  black. 
1978.      To   Write    Blue 


Characters 


with  Water.  Prepare  the  paper  with  a 
mixture  of  sesquisulphate  of  iron  and  ferrocy- 
anide  of  potassium,  by  the  same  method  as 
the  last  receipt.  Write  with  water  as  before, 
and  the  characters  will  appear  blue. 

1979.  To    Produce    Brown    Writing 
with  Water.     Instead  of  the  sulphate  of 
iron  in  the  last  receipt,  use  sulphate  of  cop- 
per ;  and  characters  written  with  watgr  will 
be  reddish-brown. 

1980.  To  Write  Blue  with  a  Cotorless 
Fluid.     Wet  the  paper  with  a  solution  of 
ferrocyanide  of  potassium,  and  dry  it  again ; 
write  on  it  with  a  pen  dipped  in  a  solution  of 
sesquisulphate  of  iron,  and  the  writing  will 
be  blue. 


Ivory,  Alabaster,  &c.    The 
folllowing  receipts  relate  to  the  manipu- 
lation of  ivory,  bone,  alabaster,  meerschaum, 
horn,  tortoise-shell,  pearl,  and  marble. 

1982.  To  Color  or  Dye  Ivory  or  Bone. 
With  regard  to  dyeing  ivory,  it  may  in  gen- 
eral be  observed,  that  the  colors  penetrate 
better  before  the  surface  is  polished  than  after- 
wards. Should  any  dark  spots  appear,  they 
may  be  cleared  up  by  rubbing  them  with 
chalk ;  after  which  the  ivory  should  be  dyed 
once  more,  to  produce  a  perfect  uniformity  of 
shade.  On  taking  it  out  of  the  boiling  hot 
dye  bath,  it  should  be  plunged  immediately 
into  cold  water,  to  prevent  the  chance  of  fis- 
sures being  caused  by  the  heat.  Ivory  may 
be  dyed  by  any  of  the  ordinary  methods  em- 


and  grease ;  but  more  quickly  as  follows  : 

1983.  To    Dye    Ivory    Black.      The 
ivory,  being  well  washed  in  an  alkaline  lye,  is 
steeped  in  a  weak  neutral  solution  of  nitrate 
of  silver,  and  then  exposed  to  the  light,  or 
dried  and  dipped  into  a  weak  solution  of  hy- 
drosulphuret  of  ammonia. 

1984.  To  Dye  Ivory  Deep  Black.     A 
still  finer  and  deeper  black  may  be  obtained 
by  boiling  the  ivory  for  some  time  in  a  strain- 
ed decoction  of  logwood,  and  then  steeping  it 
in  a  solution  of  red  sulphate,  or  red  acetate  of 

To  Dye  Ivory  Red.  Make  an 
infusion  of  cochineal  in  water  of  ammonia, 
then  immerse  the  pieces  therein,  having  pre- 
viously soaked  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  wa- 
ter very  slightly  acidulated  with  aquafortis. 

1986.  'Fine  Bed  Dye  for  Ivory.    A 
beautiful  red  color  may  be  imparted  to  ivory 
thus :    Take  4  parts,  by  weight,  picric  acid, 
and  dissolve  in  250  parts  boiling  water ;  add, 
after  cooling,  8  parts  liquid  ammonia.     Dis- 
solve also  2  parts  crystallized  fuchsine  (ma- 
genta) in  45  parts  alcohol,  dilute  with  375 
parts  hot  water,  and  next  add  50  parts  ammo- 
nia.   As  soon  as  the  red  color  of  the  magenta 
solution  has  disappeared,  the  two  solutions 
are  mixed  together.     Ivory  and  bone  should 
be  placed  in  very  weak  nitric  or  hydrochloric 
acids  before  being  immersed  in  the  ammonia- 
cal  liquid ;  wood  cannot  be  dyed  by  this  li- 
quid unless  it  has  been  previously  painted 
over  with  paste  made  from  flour.      When  to 
the  ammoniacal  liquid  some  gelatine  solution 
be  added,  it  may  serve  as  a  red  ink  which 
does  not  attack  steel  pens.    By  varying  the 
proportions  of  the  magenta  and  picric  acid, 
the  tints  obtained  may  be  varied  from  a  bluish 
red  to  a  bright  orange-red.    The  colors  do  not 
appear  until  the  ammonia  is  evaporated. 

1987.  To  Dye  Ivory  Blue.     Steep  it  in 
a  weak  solution  of  sulphate  of  indigo  which 
has  been  nearly  neutralized  with  salt  of  tartar; 
or  in  a  solution  of  Prussian  blue.    A. still  bet- 
ter plan  is  to  steep  in  the  dyer's  green  indigo 
vat ;  or,  insert  the  ivory  for  15  to  20  minutes 
in  diluted  muriatic  acid  (•£  ounce  of  acid  for  1 
pound  of  water,  having  the  taste  of  a  good 
vinegar),  and  from  this  acidulated  water  trans- 
fer the  ivory  into  a  more  or  less  concentrated 
solution  of  indigo-carmine   (soluble   indigo), 
and  keep  it  in  that  solution  until  the  ivory 
has  assumed  a  uniform  blue  color ;  then  dry 
and  polish. 

1988.  To  Dye  Ivory  Purple.     Steep 
in  a  weak  neutral  solution  of  terchloride  of 
gold,   and  then  expose  it  to  the  light.     Or, 
soak  the  ivory  in  a  solution  of  sal  ammoniac 
into  4  times  its  weight  of  nitrons  acid. 

1989.  To  Dye  Ivory  Green.    Dissolve 
verdigris  in  vinegar,    and  steep    the  pieces 
therein  for  a  short  time,  observing  to  use  a 
glass  or  stoneware  vessel ;  or  in  a  solution  of 
verdigris,  2  parts,  and  sal  ammoniac,  1  part,  in 
soft  water;    or,  dye  the  ivory  blue  by  the 
third  receipt  for  that  purpose,  and  then  insert 
in  a  solution  of  picric  acid,  as  prescribed  for 
the  dark  lemon  color.     (See  No.  1991.) 

1990.  To  Dye  Ivory  Yellow.     Steep 
the  ivory  in  a  bath  of  neutral  chromate  of 
potash,  and  afterwards  in  a  boiling  solution  of 
acetate  of  lead. 


IVORY,    ALABASTEE,    ETC. 


199 


Or :  Steep  the  pieces  for  24  hours  in  a  solu 
tion  of  sugar  of  lead,  then  take  them  out,  anc 
when  dry,  immerse  them  in  a  solution  of  chro 
mate  of  potassa. 

Or  :  Dissolve  as  much  of  the  best  orpinien 
in  water  of  ammonia  or  hartshorn  as  it  wil. 
take  up,  then  steep  the  pieces  therein  for  some 
hours ;  lastly,  take  them  out  and  dry  them 
when  they  will  turn  yellow. 

1991.  To  Dye  Ivory  Dark  Lemon, 
Dissolve  J  ounce  picric  acid  in  •£  ounce  boiling 
water.     Dilute  -J-  ounce  strong  sulphuric  acic 
with  J  ounce  hot  water,  by  pouring  the  acic 
gradually  into  the  water.     Insert  the  ivory  in 
the  acidulated  water,  turn  it  around  repeated 
ly,  in  order  to  admit  the  acid  to  all  parts,  re- 
move  the  ivory  from  the  fluid   and  dry  it 
Then  insert  the  dried  ivory  in  the  boiling  so- 
lution of  picric  acid,  turn  it  also  around,  anc 
leave  it  in  the  solution  until  all  parts  appear 
of  a  uniform  yellow  color.     Then  remove  i1 
from  the  solution  of  picric  acid,  dry,  and  pol- 
ish the  ivory  with  soap  water  and  finely  levi- 
gated chalk.     After  the  polishing  the  ivory 
possesses    a  permanent    dark  lemon-yellow 
color. 

1992.  To  Dye  Ivory  Violet.     Dye  red, 
and  afterwards  blue ;  or  place  the  ivory  in  a 
highly-diluted  solution  of  tin,  and  boil  in  the 
logwood  bath. 

1993.  •  Aniline  Dyes  for  Ivory.    Any 
of  these  colors  give  a  hne  and  permanent  col- 
or to  ivory  by  immersion. 

1994.  To  Make  Ivory  Flexible.  Ivory 
is  rendered  flexible  by  immersion  in  a  solution 
of  pure  phosphoric  acid  (specific  gravity  1.13) 
until  it  loses,  or  partially  loses  its  opacity, 
when  it  is  washed  in  clean  cold  water,  and 
dried.    In  this  state  it  is  as  flexible  as  leather, 
but  gradually  hardens  by  exposure  to  dry  air. 
Immersion  in  hot  water,  however,  restores  its 
softness  and  pliancy.     The  following  method 
may  also  be  employed :      Put  the  ivory  to 
soak  in  3  ounces  nitric  acid  mixed  with  15 
ounces  water.  In  3  or  4  days  the  ivory  will  be 
soft. 

1995.  To  Dye  Ivory  when  Softened. 
If  it  is  desired  to  dye  ivory  when  thus  soften- 
ed, dissolve,  in  spirits  of  wine,  such  color  as 
may  be  desired  to  use.     "When  the  spirits  of 
wine  is   sufficiently  tinged  with    the  color, 
plunge  in  the  ivory,  and  leave  it  there  till  it  is 
dyed  to  suit. 

'1996.  To  Harden  Ivory.  To  harden 
ivory  after  it  has  been  softened,  wrap  it  up  in 
a  sheet  of  white  paper,  cover  it  with  dry,  de- 
crepitated salt,  and  lay  it  by  for  24  hours, 
when  it  will  be  restored  to  its  original  hard- 
ness. 

1997.  To  Bleach.  Ivory.  Ivory  is 
whitened  or  bleached  by  rubbing  it  with  fine- 
ly powdered  pumice-stone  and  water,  and  ex- 
posing it  to  the  sun  whilst  still  moist,  under 
a  glass  shade,  to  prevent  desiccation  and  the 
occurrence  of  cracks;  observing  to  repeat 
the  process  until  a  proper  effect  is  produced. 
Ivory  may  also  be  bleached  by  immersion  for 
a  short  time  in  water  holding  a  little  sulphur- 
ous acid,  chloride  of  lime,  or  chlorine  in  solu- 
tion;  or  by  exposure  to  the  fumes  of  burning 
sulphur,  largely  diluted  with  air.  In  many 
cases  where,  as  in  piano  keys,  the  ivory  can- 
not be  removed,  the  polishing  process  will  be 
found  partially  successful. 


1998.  To  Restore  Yellow  Ivory  to 
its    Original    Whiteness.     A    thin  lime- 
paste  is  prepared  in  a  pot,  and  heated  over  a 
stove;  the  ivory  is  placed  in  this  and  left 
until  white,  when  it  is  taken  out,  dried,  and 
polished. 

1999.  To   Bleach  Articles  made  of 
Ivory.     This  process  is  recommended  by  Dr. 
J.  Artus.     The  objects  made  of  this  substance 
are  first  placed  into  a  solution  containing  11£ 
ounces  carbonate  of  soda  in  crystals,  and  45f 
ounces  water.    After  having  been  left  in  this 
fluid  for  2  days,  the  iyory  objects  are  well 
washed  in  pure  water,  and  then  immersed  into 
a  solution  composed  of  17  ounces  sulphite  of 
soda,  and  45£  ounces  water,  and  kept  therein 
for  5  or  6  days,  after  which  time  there  is 
added  to  the  liquid,  yet  containing  the  ivory 
objects,   1   ounce  hydrochloric   acid    diluted 
with  5i  ounces  water.    After  the  acid  has 
been  added,   the  vessel  (glass  or  porcelain) 
containing  the  liquid  and   ivory    should  be 
covered  and  left .  standing  for  from  24  to  36 
hours,  after  which  time  the  ivory  is  taken  out, 
washed  in  clean  water,  and  dried.     The  quan- 
tities of  ingredients  herein  specified  suffice  for 
22-J-  ounces  of  ivory, 

2000.  To  Polish  Ivory.      If  ivory  be 
polished  with  putty-powder  and  water,   by 
means  of  a  rubber  made  of  hat,  it  will  in  a 
short  time  produce  a  fine  gloss.     Or,  set  the 
ivory  in  the  turner's  wheel,  and,  after  having 
worked  it,  take  some  rushes  and  pumice-stone, 
mix  a  subtle  powder  with  water,  and  rub  till 
it  becomes  perfectly  smooth  ;  then  heat  it  by 
turning  it  over  a  piece  of  linen  or  sheepskin, 
and  when  hot  rub  it  with  a  little  whitening 
diluted  with  olive  oil;  then  rub  it  with  a  little 
dry  whitening  alone,  and  finally  with  a  piece 
of  soft  white  rag,  and  the  ivory  will  look  re- 
markably white. 

2001.  Fluid    for    Marking;    Ivory. 
Take  nitrate  of  silver,  2  parts ;  nitric  acid,  1 
part ;  water,  7  parts ;  mix. 

2002.  Etching  Fluid  for  Ivory.    Take 
of  diluted  sulphuric  acid  and  diluted  muriatic 
acid,  equal  parts.    Mix. 

2003.  Etching    Varnish  for    Ivory. 
White  wax,  2  parts ;  tears  of  mastic,  2  parts. 
Mix. 

2004.  To  Etch  on  Ivory.     Cover  the 
ivory  to  be  etched  with  a  thin  coating  of  bees' 
wax,  then  trace  the  figure  you  desire  to  pre- 
sent through  the  wax.     Pour  aver  it  a  strong 
solution  of  nitrate  of  silver.      Let  it  remain  a 
sufficient  length  of  time,  then  remove  it,  with 
he  wax,  by  washing  in  warm  water.     The 

design  will  be  left  in  dark  lines  on  the  ivory. 

2005.  To  Gild  Ivory.     Immerse  it  in  a 
solution  of  nitro-muriate  of  gold,  and  then, 
while  yet  damp,  expose  it  to  hydrogen  gas. 
"Wash  it  afterwards  in  clean  water.     Another 
)lan  of  gilding  ivory  is  by  immersing  it  in  a 
resh  solution  of  protosulphate  of  iron,  and 

afterwards  in  a  solution  of  chloride  of  gold. 

2006.  To  Silver  Ivory.     Immerse  the 
vory  in  a  weak  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver, 

and  let  it  remain  till  the  solution  has  given  it 
a  deep  yellow  color ;  then  take  it  out  and  im- 
merse it  in  clear  water,  and  expose  it  in  the 
water  to  the  rays  of  the  sun.  In  about  3 

lours  the  ivory  acquires  a  black  color  ;  but  the 
"(lack  surface,  on  being  rubbed,  soon  becomes 

handed  to  a  brilliant  silver. 


200 


IVORY,    ALABASTER,    ETC. 


2007.  To    Clean   Ivory    Ornaments. 

"When  ivory  ornaments  get  yellow  or  dusky- 
looking,  wash  them  well  in  soap  and  water 
with  a  small  brush,  to  clean  the  carvings,  and 
place  them,  while  wet,  in  full  sunshine ;  wet 
them  for  2  or  3  days,  several  times  a  day,  with 
soajry  water,  still  keeping  them  in  the  sun; 
then  wash  them  again,  and  they  will  be  beau- 
tifully white. 

2008.  Bone   for    Ornamental    Pur- 
poses is  treated  in  a  similar  way  to  ivory, 
but  less  carefully,  owing  to  its  inferior  value. 
The  bones  of  living  animals  may  be  dyed  by 
mixing  madder  with  their  food.     The  bones 
of  young  pigeons  may  thus  be  tinged  of  a 
rose  color  in  24  hours,  and  of  a  deep  scarlet  in 
3  or  4  days ;  but  the  bones  of  adult  animals 
take  fully  2  weeks  to  acquire  a  rose  color. 
The  bones  nearest  the  heart  become  tinged 
soonest.     In  the  same  way  logwood  and  the 
extract  of  logwood  will  tinge  the  bones  of 
young  pigeons  purple. 

2009.  Ivory  Size  or  Jelly.     The  dust 
or  shavings  (ivory  dust,  ivory  shavings)  of  the 
turner,  form  a  beautiful  size  or  jelly  when 
boiled  in  water. 

2010.  Artificial  Ivory  for  Photo- 
graphy. Tablets  for  photography  are  made 
by  mingling  finely  pulverized  sulphate  of 
baryta  or  heavy  spar  with  gelatine  or  albumen, 
compressing'the  product  into  sheets  and  dry- 
ing it. 

2011.  Artificial  Ivory.      The  process 
by  which  the  most  successful  imitation  of 
natural  ivory  is  obtained  appears  to  consist  in 
dissolving  either  india-rubber  or  gutta-percha 
in  chloroform,  passing  chlorine  through  the 
solution  until  it  has  acquired  a  light  yellow 
tint,  next  washing  well  with  alcohol,  then 
adding,  in  fine  powder,   either  sulphate  of 
baryta,  sulphate  of  lime,  sulphate  of  lead, 
alumina,  or  chalk,  in  quantity  proportioned  to 
the  desired  density  and  tint,  kneading  well, 
and  finally  subjecting  to  heavy  pressure.     A 
very  tough  product,  capable  of  taking  a  very 
high  polish,  is  obtainable  in  this  way. 

2012.  Horn.     For    practical  purposes, 
the  horns  of  the  goat  and  sheep  are  preferred 
for  their  whiteness  and  transparency. 

2013.  To  Dye  Horn.     Horn  is  dyed 
with  the  same  dyes,  and  in  the  same  manner, 
as  ivory.     (See  Nos.  1982,  <fc.) 

2014.  To  Prepare  Horn.      Horn    is 
softened  by  sawing  it  into  plates  or  sherets, 
and  then   exposing  it  to  powerful  pressure 
between  hot  iron  plates.     Before    pressing, 
the  pith  has  to  be  removed,  and  the  texture 
softened,  first  by  soaking  for  some  days,  and 
then  boiling  in  water. 

2015.  To  Unite  Horn.     The  surfaces 
and  edges  of  pieces  of  horn  may  be  united  or 
cemented  together  by  softening  by  the  heat 
of  boiling  water,  then  placing  the  parts  in 
contact  under  strong  pressure  in  a  vise,  and 
again  exposing  to  the  heat  of  boiling  water. 

2016.  ToDyeor  Stain  Horn  Tortoise- 
shell  Color.     The  horn  to  be  dyed  must  be 
first  pressed   into   proper  plates,   scales,   or 
other  flat  form,    and  the  following  mixture 
prepared:    Take   of  quicklime  2  parts,   and 
litharge  1  part ;  temper  them  together  to  the 
consistence  of  a  soft  paste,  with  soap  lye. 
Put  this  paste  over  all  the  parts  of  the  horn, 
except  such  as  are  proper  to  be  left  transpar- 


ent, in  order  to  give  it  a  near  resemblance  to 
the  tortoise-shell.  The  horn  must  remain  in 
this  manner  covered  with  the  paste  till  it  is 
thoroughly  dry;  when,  the  paste  being  brushed 
off,  the  horn  will  be  found  partly  opaque  and 
partly  transparent,  in  the  manner  of  tortoise- 
shell,  and,  when  put  over  a  foil  of  Dutch  gold 
metal,  will  be  scarcely  distinguishable  from  it. 
It  requires  some  degree  of  fancy  and  judg- 
ment to  dispose  of  the  paste  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  form  a  variety  of  transparent  parts, 
of  different  magnitudes  and  figures,  to  look 
like  the  effect  of  nature ;  and  it  will  be  an 
improvement  to  add  semi-transparent  parts, 
which  may  be  done  by  mixing  whiting  with 
some  of  the  paste,  to  weaken  its  operation  in 
particular  places,  by  which  spots  of  a  reddish- 
brown  will  be  produced,  which,  if  properly 
interspersed,  especially  on  the  edges  of  the 
dark  parts,  will  greatly  increase  the  beauty  of 
the  work,  and  its  similitude  to  real  tortoise- 
shell. 

2017.  To  Stain  Horn   in   Imitation 
of  Tortoise-shell.     Mix  an  equal  quantity  of 
quicklime  and  red  lead  with  strong  soap  lees, 
lay  it  on  the  horn  with  a  small  brush,  in  imi- 
tation of  the  mottle  of  tortoise-shell;  when 
dry,  repeat  it  two  or  three  times. 

2018.  To  Join  or  Weld  Tortoise-shell 
or  Horn.      Provide    a  pair  of  pincers    or 
tongs,  constructed  so  as  to  reach  4  inches 
beyond  the  rivet ;  then  have  the  tortoise-shell 
filed  clean  to  a  lap-joint,  carefully  observing 
that  there  is  no  grease  about  it;   wet  the 
joint  with  water,  apply  the  pincers  hot,  fol- 
lowing them  with  water,  and  the  shell  will  be 
joined  as  if  it  were  one  piece.     The  heat  must 
not  be  so  great  as  to  burn  the  shell,  therefore 
try  it  first  on  a  piece  of  white  paper. 

2019.  To  Polish   Tortoise-Shell   or 
Horn.     Having  scraped  the  work  perfectly 
smooth  and  level,  nib  it  with  very  fine  sand- 
paper or  Dutch  rushes;  repeat  the  rubbing 
with  a  bit  of  felt  dipped  in  very  finely  pow- 
dered charcoal  with  water,  and,  lastly,  with 
rotten-stone  or  putty-powder ;  and  finish  with 
a  piece  of  soft  wash-leather,  damped  with  a 
little  sweet  oil ;  or,  still  better,  rub  it  with  sub- 
nitrate  of  bismuth  by  the  palm  of  the  hand. 

2020.  Alabaster.     Oriental  alabaster  is 
a  substance  of  a  pure,  semi-translucent  white- 
ness, occasionally  found  variegated  with  un- 
dulating veins   of   yellow,   red    and  brown. 
The  common  alabaster,  usually  met  with  in 
ornaments  &c.,  is  made  of  gypsum  (plaster  of 
Paris),  and  prepared  so  as  to  imitate  the  gen- 
uine.     The  following   receipts    are    for  the 
gypsum  imitation,  and  not  the  real  alabaster. 
By  using  any   of   the  hardening  processes, 
beautiful  imitations  of  marble  may  be  pro- 
duced, but  they  require  great  care  and  skill. 

2021.  To  Engrave  or  Etch  on  Imita- 
tion Alabaster.     Cover  every  part  of  the 
surface,  except  those  portions  to   be  etched, 
with  a  solution  of  1  part  white  wax  in  4  parts 
oil  of  turpentine,  thickening  with  a  little  finely 
powdered  white  lead;   immerse  the  cast  in 
water  for  from  20  to  50  hours,  according  to 
the  effect  desired.     Then  wash  off  the  cover- 
ing solution  with  oil  of  turpentine,  and  brush 
over  carefully  the  etched  parts  with  powdered 
gypsum   (plaster   of  Paris).     The  etching  is 
produced  by  the  solvent  action  of  the  water 
on  the  gypsum. 


IVORY,    ALABASTER,    ETC. 


201 


2022.  To  Harden  Alabaster.     Expose 
the  unpolished  articles  for  from  12  to  24  hours 
to  a  heat  about  equal  to  that  of  a  baker's 
oven ;  withdraw  from  the  heat,  and  when  con- 
siderably cooled,  immerse  them  for  from  2  to  5 
minutes  in  pure  river  water.     The  operation 
may  be  repeated  a  second  time,  and  3  or  4  days 
are"  allowed  to  elapse  before  polishing  them. 
A  weak  solution  of  alum  in  water  may  be 
substituted  for  the  river  water. 

2023.  To  Dress  Plaster  of  Paris  with 
"Wax  in  Imitation  of  Alabaster.    Dip  the 
cast  or  model,  previously  warmed,  and  sus- 
pended by  a  fine  silken  cord  or  wire  into  the 
purest  white  wax,  melted  in  any  suitable  ves- 
sel.    The  operation  should  be  repeated  until 
the  liquid  wax  begins  to  rest  unabsorbed  on 
the  surface  of  the  plaster,  when  the  article 
must  be  placed  aside  (suspended)   until  the 
next  day,  when  it  may  be  polished  with  a 
clean  brush.     None  but  the  hardest,  purest, 
and  whitest  wax  will  do  for  the  above  purpose. 
That  commonly  sold  is  mixed  with  spermaceti, 
stearine,  or  tallow,  and  not  unfrequently  with 
Japanese  wax  and  potato  starch.     (See  No. 
1582J 

2024.  To  Bender  Plaster    Figures 
Durable.     First  thoroughly  dry  the  plaster 
figure  in  a  warm  dry  atmosphere ;  place  it  in 
a  vessel  and  cover  it  with  the  clearest  linseed 
oil,  just  warm.     After  12  hours,  take  it  out, 
drain,  and  let  it  dry  in  a  place  free  from  dust. 
"When  dry  it  will  look  like  wax,  and  can  be 
washed  without  injury. 

2025.  To  Harden    Plaster.     Mix  up 
the  plaster  of  Paris  with  a  weak  solution  of 
gum  arabic  (1  ounce  to  1  pint  of  water);  or, 
for  common  purposes,  a  weak  solution  of  size. 
This  not  only  renders  the  plaster  harder,  but 
gives  the  surface  a  pleasing  smoothness. 

2026.  To  Harden  Imitation  Alabas- 
ter with  Alum.     Suspend  the  article  by  a 
fine  silken  cord  or  wire  in  a  strong  and  per- 
fectly clear  solution  of  alum,  letting  it  remain 
until  the   alum   crystallizes  on  the   surface ; 
then  polish  with  a  wet  cloth. 

2027.  To    Make   Hard    Plaster   of 
Paris.     Mix  with  weak  alum  water,  instead 
of  water,  for  casting ;  or,  a  solution  of  1£  or 
2  ounces  of  gum-arabic  to  the  pint  of  water; 
or,  for  common  purposes,  a  weak  solution  of 
size  may  be  used. 

2028.  To  Harden  Plaster  with  Sul- 
phate of  Potassa.     If  equal  parts  of  com- 
mon calcined  plaster  of  Paris  and  of  sulphate 
of  potassa  be  mixed  together,  they  will  harden 
in  a  moment  with  less  than  an  equivalent 
weight  of  water ;  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  the 
mixture  cannot  be  poured  out  of  the  vessel. 
If,  however,  1  part  of  each  of  the  salts  and  2 
of  water  be  used,  they  form  a  mass  which  can- 
not be  poured  out,  and  the  surface  of  which 
will  be  found  coated  with  a  crust  of  sulphate 
of  potash.     The  rapidity  of  hardening,  there- 
fore, can  be  made  to  vary  with  the  percentage 
of  water,  the  mass  solidifying  even  if  6  parts 
of  water  be  used. 

2029.  To  Stain  or  Color  Alabaster. 
This  is  effected   by  mixing  with   the  water 
used  for  working  the  gypsum,  any  of  the  or- 
dinary pigments  or  colored  solutions  that  are 
not  decomposed  by  contact  with  sulphate  or 
carbonate  of  lime.     A  little  sienna  in  very 
fine  powder,  or  ground  with  water,  imparts  a 


good  color  for  busts,  medallions,  &c.  For 
rough  and  architectural  purposes,  the  colors 
are  commonly  added  to  a  solution  of  clear 
size,  which  is  then  made  into  a  paste  with 
plaster.  In  this  manner  colored  stucco  of 
great  hardness  and  durability  is  produced. 
Objects  formed  from  the  solid  alabaster  may 
be  stained  in  the  same  way,  and  with  the 
same  materials,  as  marble.  (See  Nos.  2036,  <f  c.) 
2030.  To  Polish  Alabaster.  The  ob- 
ject, received  in  the  rough  state  from  the 
hands  of  the  sculptor  or  turner,  is  rubbed 
with  finely-powdered  pumice-stone,  or  dried 
shave-grass  (equisetum)  and  water,  and  after- 
wards with  a  paste  formed  of  finely-powdered 
and  sifted  slacked  lime  and  water.  The  rough 
polish  thus  produced  is  then  brought  up  and 
finished  off  by  friction  with  finely-powdered 
talc,  or  French  chalk,  until  a  satiny  lustre  is 
produced. 

2031.  To    Prevent    Expansion    or 
Shrinkage  in  Casting  Plaster.     Use  lime 
water  instead  of  plain  water  to  mix  the  plaster 
of  Paris,     i  an  ounce  of  sulphate  of  potassa 
dissolved  in  each  quart  of  water  will  have  the 
same  effect,  but  weakens  the  plaster. 

2032.  To   Make    Artificial   Marble 
for    Paper   Weights   or    other    Fancy 
Articles.     Soak  plaster  of  Paris  in  a  solution 
of  alum;  bake  it  in  an  oven,  and  then  grind  it 
to  a  powder.     In  using,  mix  it  with  water, 
and  to  produce  the  clouds  and  veins,  stir  in 
any  dry  color  you  wish;  this  will  become 
very  hard,  and  is  susceptible  of  a  high  polish. 

2033.  To  Polish  Mother-of-Pearl.    Go 
over  it  with  pumice  stone,  finely  powdered 
(first  washed  to  separate  the  impurities  and 
dirt),   with  which   you  may  polish  it  very 
smooth  ;  then  apply  putty  powder  as  directed 
for  ivory,  and  it  will  produce  a  fine  gloss 
and  a  good  color.     (See  No.  2000.) 

2034.  To  Clean  Alabaster.    Soap  well 
and  wash  with  hot  water.     If  stained,  apply 
fuller's  earth,  pipe- clay,  or  whiting,  for  3  or  4 
hours,   then   wash   off.      If  very   dirty  and 
stained,   first  wash  with    aquafortis   diluted 
with  water.     Or :  Take  ground  pumice  stone 
of  the  finest  quality,  and  mix  it  up  with  ver- 
juice ;  let  it  stand  for  2  hours,  then  dip  in  a 
sponge  and  rub  the  alabaster  with  it;  wash 
with  a  linen  cloth  and  fresh  water,  and  dry 
with  clean  linen  rags.     Any  kind  of  marble 
may  be  done  in  the  same  manner. 

2035.  To   Polish  Marble.     With  a 

Eiece  of  very  fine  sandstone,  rub  the  slab 
ackward  and  forward;  using  very  fine  sand 
and  water,  till  the  marble  appears  equally 
rough,  and  not  in  scratches;  next  use  a  finer 
stone  and  finer  sand,  till  its  surface  appears 
equally  gone  over;  then,  with  fine  emery- 
powder  and  a  piece  of  felt  or  old  hat  wrapped 
round  a  weight,  rub  it  till  all  the  marks  left 
by  the  former  process  are  worked  out,  and  it 
appears  with  a  comparative  gloss  on  its  sur- 
face. Afterward  finish  the  polish  with  putty 
powder  and  fine  clean  rags.  As  soon  as  the 
face  appears  of  a  good  gloss,  do  not  put  any 
more  powder  on  the  rags,  but  rub  it  well,  and 
in  a  short  time  it  will  have  a  fine  polish.  De- 
fects may  also  be  brought  up  with  tripoli,  fol- 
lowed by  putty  powder;  both  being  used 
along  with  water. 

2036.  To    Dye    or    Stain    Marble. 
Marble  may  be  stained  or  dyed  of  various 


202 


PYROTECHNY. 


colors  by  applying  their  solutions  to  the  stone 
made  sufficiently  hot  to  make  the  liquid  just 
simmer  on  the  surface.  Success  in  the  appli- 
cation of  the  colors  requires  considerable  ex- 
perience. By  their  skillful  use  a  pleasing 
effect,  both  of  color  and  grain,  may  be  pro- 
duced. The  folio-wing  are  the  substances 
usually  employed  for  this  purpose  : 

2037.  Blue  Stain  for  Marble.  Tinc- 
ture or  solution  of  litmus,  or  an  alkaline  solu- 
tion oT  indigo.  (See  No.  2036.) 

2038.  "  Brown    Stain    for     Marble. 
Tincture  of  logwood.     (See  No.  2036.) 

2039.  Crimson    Stain    for    Marble. 
A  solution  of  alkanet  root  in  oil  of  turpentine. 
(See  No.  2036.) 

2040.  Flesh  Color  Stain  for  Marble. 
"Wax  tinged  with  alkanet  root,  and  applied  to 
the  marble  hot  enough  to  melt  it.     (See  No. 
2036.) 

2041.  Gold  Color  Stain  for  Marble. 
A  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  white  vitriol,  sal 
ammoniac,  and  verdigris,  all  in  fine  powder, 
carefully  applied.     (See  No.  2036.) 

2042.  Green   Stain  for  Marble.     An 
alkaline  solution  or  tincture  of  sap  green,  or 
wax  strongly  colored  with  verdigris,  or  stain 
the  stone  first  blue,  and  then  yellow.     (See 
No.  2036.) 

2043.  Bed  Stain  for  Marble.    Tincture 
of  dragon's  blood,  alkanet  root,  or  cochineal. 
(See  No.  2036.) 

2044.  Yellow    Stain    for     Marble. 
Tincture   of  gamboge,   turmeric,   or  saffron. 
(See  No.  2036.) 

2045.  Acids    Injurious   to    Marble. 
Marble  being  a  carbonate  of  lime,  and  the  two 
substances  not  having  a  very  great  affinity, 
care  should  be  taken  in  the  use  of  marble 
furniture  and  ornaments,  as  tables,   mantels, 
statuary,  etc.    Acids  of  any  kind  will  more  or 
less  affect  marble,  and  they  should  not  be  al- 
lowed to  touch  it.    The  slabs  on  which  acids 
are  allowed  to  stand  soon  lose  their  polish, 
and  are  liable  to  a  degree  of  disintegration 
which  impairs  their  beauty.     Fruits,  sauces, 
vinegar,  etc.,  should  not  be  allowed  to  come 
in    contact  with  a  marble-topped    table    or 
shelf.      . 

2046.  To  Polish   Meerschaum.     The 
dust  of  meerschaum  is  the  best  article  for  this 
purpose. 

2047.  Artificial  Meerschaum.     Arti- 
ficial meerschaum  may  be  made  by  immersing 
carbonate  of  magnesia  in  a  warm  solution  of 
silicate  of  soda  or  potash  for  some  time,  or  by 
precipitating  from  a  solution  of  epsom  salts 
by  means  of  the  silicates. 


PyrOtechny.  This  is  the  art  of 
making  fireworks.  The  three  principal 
materials  employed  in  this  art  are  charcoal, 
saltpetre,  and  sulphur,  combined  with  filings  of 
iron,  steel,  copper  or  zinc,  or  with  resin,  cam- 
phor, lycopodium  and  other  substances,  to 
impart  color,  or  to  modify  the  effect  and  dura- 
tion of  the  combustion.  Gunpowder  is  used, 
either  in  grain,  half  crushed,  or  meal  (finely, 
ground),  as  circumstances  may  require.  Iron 
filings  give  red  and  bright  spots.  Copper 
filings  give  a  greenish  tint  to  flame ;  those  of 


zinc,  a  fine  blue  color ;  sulphuret  of  antimony 
gives  a  less  greenish  blue  than  the  zinc,  but 
with  much  smoke;  amber,  resin  and  common 
salt  afford  a  yellow  fire.  Lycopodium  burns 
with  a  rose  color  and  a  magnificent  flame,  &c. 

2049.  The  Leading  Fireworks.     The 
leading  simple  fireworks  are  rockets,  lioman 
candles,  flowerpots  or  gerbs,  mines,  and  their 
adaptations  or  varieties ;  quick  fires  of  differ- 
ent kinds  and  colors  in  cases,  such  as  golden 
rain,  spur  fire,  &c.;  slow  fires  in  cases  and  pots, 
as  blue  lights,  B.engal  lights,  &c.    These  form 
the  fundamental  principles  of  all  pyrotechnic 
display.     The  endless  variety  of  their  combi- 
nations in  the  shape  of  vertical  and  horizontal 
wheels  and  "set  pieces,"  requires  considerable 
fertility  of  invention  and  mechanical  ingenuity, 
combined  with  a  thorough  practical  knowledge 
of  the  nature  of  firework  compositions,  and 
the  appropriate  means  of  displaying  them  to 
the  best  advantage.     The  weights  used  in  the 
following  receipts  are  avoirdupois. 

2050.  To  Make  Plain  Rockets.     Tho 
cases  are  made  of  stout  cartridge  paper,  rolled 
on  a  rod  whose  thickness  is  equal  to  the  de- 
sired diameter  of  the  bore.     The  rod  is  slightly 
tapering,  to   allow  of  its   easier  withdrawal 
after  the  case  is    rolled    and  pasted.     The 
narrower  end  of  the  case  is  choked ;  that  is, 
a  neck  is  made  in  it,  similar  to  the  neck  of  a 
phial.      (See  No.  2053,)      The    composition 
(see  No.  2054)  is  next  rammed  tightly  into 
the  case  (see  No.  2052),  which  is  supported  by 
a  closely  fitting  mould  during  this  operation, 
finishing  with  a  small  charge  of  gunpowder 
to  explode  when  the  rocket  goes  out.     The 
top  of  the  case  is  then  stopped  with  clay  and 
a  conical  cap  fastened  on,  to  decrease  the 
resistance  of  the  air  in  its  upward  flight;  and 
the  bottom  or  choked  end  of  the  case  is  fur- 
nished with  priming  and  touch-paper.  '  The 
whole  is  secured  to  the  end  of  a  willow  stick, 
to  direct  its  course  through  the  air. 

2051.  To  Make  Display  Rockets. 
Sockets  whose  discharge  ends  in  display,  are 
furnished  with  an  extra  case,  called  the  pot, 
about  £  the  length  of  the  rocket ;  its  inside 
diameter  is  the  same  as  the  outside  diameter 
of  the  rocket  case,  over  which  it  is  glued 
firmly,  and  takes  the  place  of  the  conical  cap. 
The  garniture,  consisting  of  stars,  serpents, 
&c.,  as  the  case  may  be  (see  No.  2055),  is  in- 
serted in  the  pot  and  connected  with  the 
charge  in  the  rocket  case  by  a  quick  match. 
(See  Ne.  2060.)  The  whole  is  finished  with 
the  clay  and  cap,  the  same  as  the  head  of  a 
simple  rocket. 

2052.  To  Charge  Rocket  Cases.     In 
charging  rocket  cases,  in  order  to   increase 
the  rapidity  of  its  discharge  a  wire  is  some- 
times inserted  through    the    centre   of   the 
charge,  the  rammer  being  constructed  with  a 
small  bore  through  its  length,  to  receive  this 
wire  when  ramming  the  charge.     This  wire  is 
withdrawn  when  the  charge  is  complete,  and 
the  space  it  has  left  is  filled  with  a  quick 
match  (see  No.  2060),  which  thus  sets  fire  to 
the  entire  charge  at  once.     This  central  space 
is  called  the  soul  of  the  rocket,  and  the  adop- 
tion of   this   arrangement  is    necessary    for 
large  rockets,  especially  those  having  heavy 
pots. 

2053.  To  Choke  Firework  Cases.     A 
short  cylindrical  piece  of  wood,  of  the  same 


PTEOTECHNT. 


203 


diameter  as  the  thin  end  of  the  rod  used  for 
rolling  a  case,  is  furnished  with  a  wire,  the 
thickness  of  which  must  be  the  same  as  the 
desired  bore  of  the  choke.  The  end  of  the 


c 


rod  has  a  hole  bored  in  it  to  receive  this  wire 
loosely.  A  is  the  rod  on  which  the  case  is  to 
be  rolled ;  C  the  cap  of  the  same  diameter  as 
the  end  of  the  rod,  having  the  wire  inserted 
firmly  in  its  axis.  The  rod  is  bored,  as  the 
dotted  lines  at  B  denote,  to  receive  the  wire. 
The  outside  dotted  lines  indicate  a  case  on 
the  rod,  choked  at  1ST.  This  is  effected  by 
stretching  a  piece  of  strong  cord,  a  single 
turn  of  which  is  passed  round  the  case  at  " 
compressing  it  firmly  and  leaving  a  bore  of 
the  same  size  as  the  wire  between  the  rod  and 
the  cap.  In  rolling  a  case  to  be  choked,  the 
paper  should  be  used  in  pieces,  each  piece 
wide  enough  to  make  about  3  thicknesses 
when  rolled  over  the  rod,  and  the  choking 
done  after  each  piece  is  rolled.  When  finish- 
ed, the  rod  is  withdrawn  from  the  mouth  of 
the  case,  and  the  cap  and  wire  from  the  other 
end. 

2054.  Composition  for  Rockets.     For 
2  ounce  rockets : — Mix  54£  parts  nitre  (salt- 
petre), 18  parts  sulphur,  and  27£  of  charcoal, 
all  in  fine  powder.     Sift  through  lawn.     For 
4  ounce  rockets  : — 64  parts  nitre,  16  parts  sul- 
phur, and  20  parts  charcoal.     For  8  ounce  to  1 
pound  rockets  : — 62f  parts  nitre,  15f  parts  sul- 
phur, and  21£  parts  charcoal.     For  rockets  f 
inch  in  diameter : — 16  parts  nitre,  4  parts  sul- 
phur, and  7  parts  charcoal.     For  rockets  1£ 
inches  in  diameter  use  1  part  more  nitre,  and 
for  still  larger  rockets,  another  additional  part 
nitre.     By  using  1  part  less  charcoal,   and 
adding  respectively  3,  4,  and  5  parts  fine  steel 
filings,  the  above  are  converted  into  brilliant 
fires;    or,  by  using  coarse  iron  filings,  and 
still  less  charcoal,  they  become  Chinese  -fire. 

2055.  Chinese  Fire  for  Sky  Rockets. 
If  I  inch  or  under,  nitre,  16  parts ;  charcoal, 
4  parts;  sulphur,  8  parts;  cast-iron  borings, 
4  parts.     Mix.     Or :  I£  over  1  inch  and  under 
2  inches  bore,  nitre  16  parts ;  charcoal,  4  parts; 
sulphur,  4  parts  ;  iron  borings,  5  parts.     Mix. 

2056.  Golden  Rain.     Mealed  powder,  4 
ounces;  saltpetre,  1  pound;  sulphur,  4 ounces; 
brass   filings,  1  ounce;   sawdust,  2J  ounces; 
glass  powder,  6  drachms. 

2057.  Silver  Rain.     Mealed  powder,  2 
ounces;  saltpetre,  4  ounces;  sulphur,  1  ounce; 
steel  dust,  f  ounce. 

2058.  Trailed  Stars  for  Rockets  and 
Roman  Candles.     Saltpetre,  4  ounces;  sul- 
phur, 6  ouuces ;  sulphate  of  antimony,  2  oun- 
ces ;  resin,  4  ounces.     With  sparks.     Mealed 
powder,  1  ounce;  saltpetre,  1  ounce;  camphor, 
2  ounces.     Other  receipts  for   stars   suitable 
for  rocket  garniture  will  be  found  under  the 
head  of  "  Colored  Fires."*  (See  No.  2065,  <fc.) 

2059.  To  Prepare  Touch.  Paper. 
Soak  unglazed  paper  in  a  solution  of  nitre  in 
vinegar  or  water.  The  stronger  the  solution, 
the  faster  will  it  burn.  A  good  plan  is  to  dip 
it  in  a  weak  solution,  dry  it,  try  it,  and  if  it 
burns  too  slowly,  make  the  solution  stronger 
and  dip  it  again  to  make  it  burn  faster. 


206p.  To  Make  Quick  Match.  Quick 
match  is  made  by  immersing  lamp-wifck  in  a 
solution  of  saltpetre  with  mesfl  powder,  wind- 
ing it  on  a  frame,  and  afterwards  dusting  with 
meal  powder.  To  28  ounces  cotton,  take  salt- 
petre, 1  pound;  alcohol,  2  quarts;  water,  3 
quarts;  solution  of  isinglass  (1  ounce  to  the 
pint),  3  gallons  ;  mealed  powder,  10  pounds. 

2061.  Inextinguishable  Match.   Take 
4  parts  dry  nitre,  2  gunpowder,  2  charcoal, 
and  1  sulphur,  and  mix  them ;  then  ram  the 
compound  into  paper  cases  9  inches  in  length 
and  of   the  thickness   of   a    common   quill. 
When  this  composition  is  inflamed,  rain  will 
not  extinguish  it;   the  burning  end  of  the 
match  must  be  cut  off  to  stay  the  fire. 

2062.  To  Make  Roman  Candles.    The 
cases  for  Eoman  candles  are  not  choked,  but 
well  secured  at  the  bottom  with  clay.     A 
small  charge   of    gunpowder   is   first  intro- 
duced, then  a  star,  followed  by  a  charge  of 
composition  (see  No.  2063) ;  these  are  gently 
rammed  down,  and  the  same  routine  of  gun- 
powder, star,   and  composition,   is  repeated 
until  the  case  is  full.     Lastly,  prime  and  close 
with  touch  paper.    The  stars  are  flat  cylinders 
of  a  paste  composition,  cut  to  fit  the  bore  of 
the  case,  and  having  a  hole  bored  in  their  cen- 
tre to  .allow  the  fire  to  pass  through  to  the 
charge  behind  them.     The  stars  which  are 
nearest  to  the  mouth  of  the  case  should  fit  a 
little  tightly,  and  gradually  a  little  more  loose- 
ly as  they  are  further  from  the  mouth.     The 
charges  of  powder  behind  them  should  also 
decrease  by  degrees  as  their  position  is  fur- 
ther from  the  mouth  of  the  case.     It  is  also 
advisable  to  put  a  loose  wad  of  one  thickness 
of  paper,  with  a  hole  in  the  centre,  between 
each  star  and  the  gunpowder  behind  it. 

2063.  Composition  for  Roman  Can- 
dles.    Mix  i  pound  meal-powder,  2i  pounds 
saltpetre,  and  -J  pound  each  sulphur  and  glass 
dust. 

2064.  Colored  Stars  may  be  made  by 
using  any   of  the  receipts  for  colored  fires, 
with  a  solution  of  isinglass,   \  ounce ;  cam- 
phor, i  ounce ;  and  alcohol,  f-  ounce.     Make 
into  cylindrical  cakes   of  the  requisite   size, 
punch  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  each,  roll  in 
gunpowder,  and  dry  in  the  sun. 

2065.  Colored  Fires.      Great    care    is 
necessary  in  the  preparation  of  these  com- 
bustibles.    The  ingredients  should  be  sepa- 
rately reduced  to  powder  and  sifted ;  then  put 
into  well-corked,  wide-mouthed  bottles  until 
the  time  for  mixing  them  for  use.     Colored 
fires  deteriorate  rapidly  by  keeping,  and  are 
nearly  all    dangerously    inflammable;     they 
should,  therefore,  be  mixed  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble   before    using    them.       The    ingredients 
should  be  pure  and  perfectly  dry ;  uniformly 
powdered,   but  not   so  fine  as  to  be  dusty. 
Xitrate  of  strontia,  alum,  carbonate  of  soda, 
and  other  crystals,  should  be  gently  heated  in 
an  iron  pan  until  they  lose  their  water  of 
crystallization  and  crumble  into  dry  powder. 
(8f6  Drying,  No.  3842.)      Chlorate  of  potas- 
sa  must  be  very  cautiously  handled,  as  it  ex- 
plodes by  moderate  friction.     The  requisite 
quantity  of  each  ingredient  should  be  weighed 
and  placed  on  a  clean  sheet  of  white  paper, 
and  mixed  lightly  with  a  bone  knife;  they 
may  then  be  more  thoroughly  mixed  \>y  sift- 
ing through  a  fine  wire  serve. 


204, 


PYEOTECHNY. 


2066.  Colored  Fires  for  Illuminations. 
Pack  the  compounds  lightly  into  small  cups 
or  pans. 

2067.  Cqlored    Fires  for  Stars,  &c. 
The  compounds  may  be  put  into  small  pill- 
boxes, with  a  little  priming  and  a  quick  match 
(see    No.    2060)  attached  to  each.     If  kept, 
they  should  be  put  where  no  damage  can  hap- 
pen in  case  of  their  catching  fire. 

2068.  To  Make  Colored  Fires.      The 
following  receipts  for  the  preparation  of  these 
effective   aids  in  pyrotechnic    and  dramatic 
display,  are  among  the  very  best  that  are 
known.     These  fires  have  in  some  theatres 
been  assisted,  if  not  superseded,  by  the  calcium 
light ;  color  being  communicated  by  passing 
the  rays  of  light  through  colored  glass.     The 
unpleasant  smell  of  colored  fires  is  avoided, 
and  the  effects  can  be  prolonged  at  pleasure, 
instead  of  lasting  merely  a  few  moments. 

2069.  Blue  Fire.     Mix  2  parts  realgar 
(red  arsenic),  3  parts  charcoal,  5  parts  chlorate 
of  potassa,    13  parts   sulphur,   and  77  parts 
nitrate  of  baryta. 

2070.  Bird's  Blue  Fire.     1  part  char- 
coal,  1   part  orpiment  (yellow   sulphuret  of 
arsenic),  16  parts  black  sulphuret  of  antimo- 
ny, 48  parts  nitre,  and  64  parts  sulphur. 

2071.  Bengal,  or  Blue  Signal  Light, 
used  at  Sea.     1  part  tersulphide  of  antimo- 
ny, 2  parts  sulphur,  and  6  parts  dry  nitre. 
( See  JVo.  2065.) 

2072.  Bengal  Lights.    Braunschweizer 
recommends  the  following  mixtures  as  not 
producing  injurious  fumes:   For   red  lights: 
9  parts  nitrate  of  strontia,  3  parts  shellac,  1£ 
parts  chlorate  of  potassa.    For  green :  9  parts 
nitrate  of  baryta,  3  parts  of  shellac,  li  parts 
chlorate  of  potassa.     For  blue :    8  parts  am- 
moniacal  sulphate  of  copper,  6  parts  chlorate 
of  potassa,  1  part  of  shellac. 

2073.  Blue  Fire   for    Stage    Effect. 
15  parts  of  sulphur,  15  parts  sulphate  of  po- 
tassa, 15  parts  animonio-sulphate  of  copper, 
27  parts  nitre,  and  28  parts  chlorate  of  potassa. 
The  blue  is  made  darker  or  lighter  by  increas- 
ing or  diminishing  tne  potassa  and  copper  in- 
gredients.    This  is  Marchand's  preparation. 

2074.  Marsh's    Blue    Fire.      Mix  7 
parts  sulphate  of  copper,  24  sulphur,  and  69 
parts  chlorate  of  potassa. 

2075.  Marsh's  Crimson  Fire  for  Pots. 
Mix  17  parts   chlorate  of  potassa,  23  willow 
charcoal,   90    parts   sulphur,    and    270    parts 
nitrate  of  strontia. 

2076.  Marsh's  Crimson  Fire  for 
Stars  and  Boxes.  Mix  17  parts  charcoal, 
22  parts  sulphuret  of  antimony,  69  chlorate 
of  potassa,  72  parts  sulphur,  and  220  parts 
nitrate  of  strontia. 

2077.  Marchand's    Purple    Crimson 
Fire.     Mix  16  parts   sulphur,  23  parts  dry 
chalk,  61  parts  chlorate  of  potassa. 

2078.  Green  Fire  for  Ghost  Scenes. 
Equal  parts  charcoal  and  nitrate  of  baryta. 

2079.  Brilliant  Green  Fire.     A  mag- 
nificent green  fire  can  be  prepared  by  mixing 
8  parts  chlorate  of  thallium,  2  parts  calomel, 
and  1  part  resin. 

2080.  Green  Fire.  Take  2  parts  metallic 
arsenic,  3  parts  charcoal,  5  parts  chlorate  of 
p:»tassa,  13  parts  sulphur,  77  parts  nitrate  of 
baryta.     This  is  a  beautiful  fire,  particularly 
when  burnt  before  a  reflector  of  glass  or  metal. 


2081.  Marchand's  Green  Fire.  Mix 
10  parts  boracic  acid,  17  sulphur,  and  73 
parts  chlorate  of  potassa. 

2082.  Green  Fire  for  Theatrical 
Tableaux.  Take  18  parts  chlorate  of  potassa, 
22  parts  sulphur,  60  parts  nitrate  of  baryta. 

2083.  Light    Green    Fire.      Mix    16 
parts  sulphur,  24  carbonate  of  baryta,  60  parts 
chlorate  of  potassa. 

2084.  Green  Fire  for  Pots  or  Stars. 
Take  7  parts  charcoal,  7  sulphuret  of  arsenic, 
42  parts  sulphur,  93  parts  chlorate  of  potassa, 
250  parts  nitrate  of  baryta. 

2085.  Lilac    Fire  for  Pans.     Take  6 
parts  black  oxide  of  copper,  20  dry  chalk,  25 
parts  sulphur,  49  parts  chlorate  of  potassa. 

2086.  Lilac  Fire  for  Stars.      Take  3 
parts   black   oxide   of  copper,  22  parts  dried 
chalk,  25  parts  sulphur,  50  chlorate  of  potassa. 

2087.  Bed    Fire.      Mix  16  parts  sul- 
phur, 23  parts  carbonate  of  strontia,  61  parts 
chlorate  of  potassa. 

2088.  Red   Fire    for    Stage    Effect. 
Mix  20  parts  chlorate  of  potassa,  24  sulphur, 
56  parts  nitrate  of  strontia. 

2089.  Orange    Bed    Fire.      Take    14 
parts  sulphur,  34  chalk,  52  parts  chlorate  of 
potassa. 

2090.  Purple  Bed  Fire.      Sulphur,  16 
parts,  23  parts  chalk,   61  parts  chlorate  of 
potassa. 

2091.  Purple    Fire.     Take  1  part  each 
of  lampblack,  red  arsenic,  and  nitre ;  2  parts 
sulphur,  5  parts  chlorate  of  potassa,  and  16 
parts  fused  nitrate  of  strontia. 

2092.  Pink  Fire  for  the  Stage.    Mix  1 
part  charcoal,  20  chalk,  20  parts  sulphur,  27 
parts  chlorate  of  potassa,  32  parts  nitre. 

2093.  Bose  Colored   Fire.     Take  16 
parts  sulphur,  23  dried  chloride  of  calcium,  61 
parts  chlorate  of  potassa. 

2094.  Pale   Violet   Fire.       Take    14 
parts  sulphur,  16  parts  alum,  16  carbonate  of 
potassa,  54  parts  chlorate  of  potassa. 

2095.  Dark    Violet   Fire.      Take    12 
parts  alum,  12  parts  carbonate  of  potassa,  16 
parts  sulphur,  60  parts  chlorate  of  potassa. 

2096.  White  Fire  for  Theatres.    Take 
2  parts  charcoal,  22  sulphur,  76  parts  nitre. 

2097.  White  Fire  for  Pans  or  Stars. 
Take  60  parts  nitre,  20  parts  sulphur,  10  black 
antimony,  4  parts  powdered  camphor,  6  parts 
meal  powder. 

2098.  Marsh's  White  Fire  for  Pans. 
Take  25  parts  gunpowder,  36  zinc  filings,  46 
parts  sulphur,  93  parts  nitre. 

2099.  Yellow  Fire.     Take  16  parts  sul- 
phur, 23  parts  dried  (See  No.  2065)  carbonate  of 
soda,  61  chlorate  of  potassa. 

2100.  Marsh's  Yellow  Fire.     Mix  12 
parts   charcoal,  149  parts  dry  (see  No.  2065) 
nitrate  of  soda,  39  parts  sulphur. 

2101.  Fire-eating  Ghosts.    Pour  some 
strong  warm  spirits  into  a  flat  dish,  sprinkle 
some  salt  into  it,  and  set  it  on  fire  on  a  table 
in  a  perfectly  dark  room,  taking  care  to  pro- 
tect the  table  from  injury.     Persons  standing 
round  the  table  will   appear  of   a    deathly 
pallor,  and  by  eating  raisins  dipped  in   the 
burning  spirit,  will  appear  to  eat  fire.     Shut- 
ting the  mouth  quickly  on  the  burning  raisins, 
extinguishes  them  instantly. 

2102.  Port  Fire.     The  port  fire  used 
for  cannon  is  composed  of  3  parts  nitre,  2 


PYEOTECSNT. 


2O5 


sulphur,  and  1  gunpowder,  well  mixed  and 
rammed  into  cases.  These  are  also  useful  for 
igniting  fireworks. 

2103.  Signal  Lights.     Such  lights  are 
generally  composed  ofsulphur  and  nitre,  with 
a  small  quantity  of  metallic  sulphuret.    Mix 
600  grains  nitre,  2  sulphur,  and  100  yellow 
sulphuret  of  arsenic,  and  ram  it  into  a  conical 
paper  case.     "When  touched  with  a  red-hot 
iron  it  deflagrates  rapidly  with  a  brilliant 
white  light.     The  sulphuret  of  antimony  may 
be  substituted  for  that  of  arsenic. 

2104.  Indian   White   Fire    Signal. 
Dry  (see  No.  2065)  nitre,  24  parts;  sulphur, 
7  parts ;  powdered  charcoal,  1 ;  or  instead  oi 
the  charcoal,  2  parts  red  sulphuret  of  arsenic. 
Mix  them  intimately  in  an  iron  vessel,  and 
ram  the  mixture  into  thick  paper  cylinders  of 
about  3  inches  in  length  by  1  in  diameter. 
These  are  kept  in  a  dry  place,  and  when  one 
is  required  to  be  used,  it  is  set  on  end,  and  a 
piece  of  red-hot  charcoal  placed  upon  it. 

2105.  Iron    Sand    for    Fireworks. 
Used  to  give  corruscations  in  fireworks,  is  far 
better  than  iron  or  steel-filings.    It  is  made 
by  beating  cast  steel  or  iron  into  small  pieces 
on  an  anvil.    These  are  sifted  into  4  sizes,  the 
smallest  for    the  smallest    pieces,  and  vice 
versa.     The  corruscations  produced  by  these 
are  exceedingly  brilliant.    The  sand  should 
be  kept  in  a  dry  place  in  a  well-closed  bottle, 
as  any  rust  damages  it.    Fireworks  containing 
it  should  not  be  made  very  long  before  using. 

2106.  Open  Fires.  The  following  arti- 
cle and  receipts  for  open  fires  are  by  Professor 
Ferrurn,  and  we  quote  them  from  the  "Amer- 
ican Druggists'  Circular" : 

Among  the  many  receipts  for  open  fires,  but 
few  deserve  to  be  recommended,  and  these 
have  been  selected.  The  white  and  red  fires 
only  show  a  clear,  distinct  color.  The  green 
is  generally  pale,  and  shows  off  only  when 
burnt  after  a  red.  A  pure  blue  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  obtain.  The  following  should  be  ob- 
served as  general  rules :  The  ingredients  for 
the  fires  are  dried  singly  at  a  slightly  elevated 
temperature,  finely  powdered,  and  preserved 
in  well-stoppered  bottles,  until  required  for 
use  The  mixing  of  the  ingredients  is  best 
performed  on  a  sheet  of  paper  by  means  of  a 
card,  and  should  be  done  very  carefully  so  as 
to  ensure  a  complete  mixture.  Sifting  is  in 
most  cases  admissible,  while  triturating  in 
a  mortar  is  above  all  to  be  avoided.  After 
mixing,  the  powder  is  piled  in  small  heaps  in 
open  vessels,  for  which  purpose  small  flower- 
pots or  flower-pot  dishes  are  well  adapted. 
On  top  of  these  several  piles,  some  gunpow- 
der is  placed  to  facilitate  the  lighting.  The 
vessels  should  be  arranged  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  flame  may  illuminate  the  intended 
object  without  being  seen  by  the  spectators. 
The  distribution  of  the  material  into  a  greater 
or  less  number  of  dishes  is  governed  by  cir- 
cumstances. A  great  number  of  small  flames 
from  a  certain  quantity  of  mixture  generally 
give  a  more  intense,  but  so  much  shorter- 
lived  light  than  the  same  quantity  distributed 
in  larger  portions;  beyond  a  certain  limit, 
however,  even  that  intensity  is  not  materially 
heightened  by  a  few  more  lights.  If  the  fire 
is  to  continue  for  some  time,  it  must  further 
bo  considered  that  large  quantities  of  the  mix- 
ture form  a  correspondingly  greater  amount 


of  slags,  which  greatly  mar  the  effect.  It  is, 
therefore,  best  in  such  cases  to  burn  off  a  num- 
ber of  small  charges  successively. 

2107.  White  Fire.     The  foUowing  mix- 
ture we  recommend  as  the  very  best  for  white 
lights,  being  unsurpassed  in  brilliancy  and 
power  by  any  other : 

Saltpetre,  18  parts;  sulphur,  10  parts; 
black  sulphuret  of  antimony,  3  parts ;  burnt 
lime,  4  parts.  The  sulphur  is  used  in  the 
form  of  flowers  previously  dried ;  the  lime  is 
not  to  be  slacked,  but  must  be  finely  powder- 
ed ;  it  must  be  fresh,  and  be  powdered  imme- 
diately before  use.  All  other  mixtures  for 
white  fires  have  either  a,  bluish  tinge  or  con- 
tain deleterious  ingredients,  which  render 
them  at  least  unsuitable  for  indoor  use.  Of 
the  latter  class  we  will  mention  only  one: 
Saltpetre,  12  parts;  sulphur,  4  parts;  sul- 
phite of  tin,  1  part.  Two  other  mixtures  de- 
serve mention,  though  not  equal  to  the  last : 

I.  Saltpetre,  48  parts;   sulphur,  13J  parts; 
sulphide  of  sodium,  74  parts;  and 

II.  Saltpetre,  64  parts ;    sulphur,  21  parts ; 
gunpowder,  15  parts. 

2108.  Blue  Fire.     The  only  mixture  to 
be  relied  on,  though  the  light  is  not  purely  blue, 
but  bluish  white,  is  the  following :     Saltpetre, 
12  parts ;  sulphur,  4  parts ;  black  sulphuret  of 
antimony,  1  part. 

2109.  Red  Fire.     The  following  mix- 
ture is  the  best  in  use ;  its  composition  may 
be  altered  by  various  admixtures  : 

I.  Nitrate  of  strontia,  13  parts ;    sulphur,  1 
part ;  powder  dust,  1  part.    The  latter  ingre- 
dient is  prepa'red  from  fine  gunpowder,  rubbed 
up  carefully  in  a  mortar    and    then    sifted 
through  a  hair  sieve.    Another  receipt  is  : 

II.  Nitrate  of  strontia,  24  parts;    chlorate 
of  potassa,  16  parts;  stearine,  4 parts;  powder- 
ed charcoal,  1  part.  In  using  chlorate  of  potas- 
sa the  precautions  given  in  No.  2124  must  be 
strictly  observed,  and  all  pounding  and  rub- 
bing avoided. 

III.  Nitrate  of  strontia,  20  parts;    chlorate 
of  potassa,  4  parts ;  sulphur,  5  parts ;  black 
sulphuret  of  antimony,  2  parts;   powdered 
charcoal,  1  part.     Gives  a  very,  strong  light. 
The  nitrate  of  strontia  for  these  fires,  as  the 
ingredients  for  all  others,  must  be  well,  but 

arefully  dried.     (See  No.  2065.; 

2110.  Yellow  Fire.     This  color,  which 
is  very  little  used,  is  produced  by  the  follow- 
ing mixture :     Nitrate  of  soda,  48  parts ;  sul- 
phur, 16  parts ;  black  sulphuret  of  antimony, 
4  parts ;  powdered  charcoal,  1  part. 

2111.  Green  Fires.     The  coloring  in- 
gredients for  these  lights  are  the  salts  of  ba- 
ryta.   The  color  is  generally  not  very  deep. 

I,  Nitrate  of  baryta,  45  parts ;  sulphur,  10 
parts ;  chlorate  of  potassa,  20  parts ;  calomel, 
i  parts ;  lampblack,  1  part. 

II. -Nitrate  of  baryta,  60  parts;  chlorate 
of  potassa,  18  parts ;  sulphur,  22  parts. 

III.  Chlorate  of  baryta,  3  parts ;  sulphur, 
1  part. 

IT.  Chlorate  of  baryta,  24  parts ;  stearin, 
3  parts  ;  sugar  of  milk,  1  part. 

V.  Chlorate  of  baryta,  3  parts;  sugar  of 
milk,  1  part. 

2112.  Colored  Lights.     "We  derive  the 
receipts  for  these  from  the  same  source  as  the 
open  fires.     (See  No.  2106.)     Colored  lights 
are  formed  by  filling  cylinders  of  thin  writing 


206 


EXPLOSIVES. 


paper  of  about  an  inch  in  diameter  with  the 
mixtures.  The  length  of  the  cylinder  deter- 
mines the  duration  of  the  light.  The  mix- 
tures may  be  moistened  and  pounded  into  the 
cylinder  with  a  wooden  rod;  after  drying, 
they  will  then  be  hard  enough  to  allow  of  the 
removal  of  the  paper,  and  may  be  further 
strengthened  by  being  dipped  in  or  painted 
over  with  mucilage  of  gum-arabic.  The  cyl- 
inders, when  finished,  are  tied  to  the  upper  end 
of  sticks  fastened  in  the  ground  in  a  vertical 
position.  The  mixtures  vary  essentially  from 
those  used  for  colored  fires. 

2113.  White     Lights.      Saltpetre,    4 
parts ;  sulphur,   1  part ;   black  sulphuret  of 
antimony,  1'part. 

2114.  Yellow  Lights.      I.  Black  sul- 
phuret of  antimony,  2  parts ;  chlorate  of  po- 
tassa,   4  parts;  sulphur,  2  parts;  oxalate  of 
soda,  1  part. 

II.  Saltpetre,  140  parts;  sulphur,  45 parts; 
oxalate  of  soda,  30  parts ;  lampblack,  1  part. 

2115.  Green  Lights.      I.  Chlorate   of 
baryta,  2  parts;  nitrate  of  baryta,  3  parts; 
sulphur,  1  part. 

II.  Chlorate  of  potassa,  20  parts;    nitrate 
of  baryta,  21  parts;  sulphur,  11  parts. 

2116.  Red  Lights.     Nitrate  of  strontia, 
25  parts ;  chlorate,  of  potassa,   15  parts ;  sul- 
phur, 13  parts  ;  black  sulphuret  of  antimony, 
4  parts ;  mastich,  1  part. 

2117.  Pink  Lights.     Chlorate  of  potas- 
sa, 12  parts ;  saltpetre,.5  parts ;  sugar  of  milk, 
4  parts ;  lycopodium,  1  part ;  oxalate  of  stron- 
tia, 1  part. 

2118.  Blue  Lights.     Chlorate  of  potas- 
sa,  3  parts;    sulphur,    1   part;   ammoniated 
copper,  1  part. 

2119.  Colored  Lights  without    Sul- 
phur— For  Indoor  Illuminations.     These 
are  used  for  the  purpose  of  lighting  up  tab- 
leaux vivants,  and  for  private  theatricals. 

2120.  White  Light.     Chlorate  of  po- 
tassa, 12  parts;   saltpetre,  4  parts;  sugar  of 
milk,  4  parts ;  lycopodium,  1  part ;  carbonate 
of  baryta,  1  part. 

2121.  Yellow  Light.     Chlorate  of  po- 
tassa, 6  parts  •:( or  nitrate  of  baryta  10  party); 
saltpetre,  6  parts ;  oxalate  of  soda,  5  parts ; 
powdered  shellac,  3  parts. 

2122.  Green  Light.     Only  after  yellow 
or  rod  lights.     Chlorate  of  potassa,  2  parts ; 
nitrate  of  baryta,  1  part ;   sugar  of  milk,  1 
part. 

2123.  Red  Light.     Nitrate  of  strontia, 
12  parts ;  chlorate  of  potassa,  8  parts ;  sugar 
of  milk,  1  part ;  stearine,  2  parts. 

21 24.  Caution  in  the  Use  of  Chlorate 
of  Potassa.     This  substance  should  never 
be  kept  in  admixture  with  any  inflammable 
matter,  especially  sulphur  or  phosphorus,  as 
they  explode  with  terrific  violence  by  the 
most  trivial  causes,  and  not  unfrequently  spon- 
taneously.    All  pounding  and  rubbing  must 
be  avoided. 

2125.  Paper  for  Producing  Flashes 
of  Colored  Light.     Soak  unsized  paper  for 
ten  minutes  in  a  mixture  of  4  parts,  by  mea- 
sure, oil  of  vitriol,  and  5  parts  strong  fuming 
nitric  acid ;  wash  out  thoroughly  in  warm  dis- 
tilled water,  and  dry  it  thoroughly  at  a  gentle 
heat.     The  paper  thus  prepared  is  similar  in 
its  properties  to  gun  cotton,   and   a    small 
pellet  of  it,  lighted  at  one  point  at  a  flame, 


and  then  thrown  into  the  air,  will  produce  a 
brilliant  flash,  and  leave  no  perceptible  ash. 
The  color  is  given  by  saturating  the  gun-paper 
in  the  one  of  the  solutions  given  below,  and 
then  drying  it. 

A  solution  of  chlorate  of  strontium  makes 
the  flash  a  bright  crimson.  Chlorate  of  barium, 
green.  Mtrate  of  potassium,  violet.  Chlor- 
ate of  copper,  blue.  Any  one  of  the  foregoing 
chlorates  may  be  prepared  by  mixing  a  warm 
solution  of  the  corresponding  chloride  with  an 
equivalent  quantity  of  a  warm  solution  of 
chlorate  of  potassa;  the  precipitate  formed 
will  be  chloride  of  potassium,  and  the  clear 
liquid,  poured  off,  will  be  the  desired  chlorate, 
to  be  used  for  saturating  the  gun-paper. 

2126.  Japanese  Matches.    Lampblack, 
5  parts ;  sulphur,  11  parts ;  gunpowder,  from 
26  to  30  parts,  this  last  proportion  varying 
with  the  quality  of  the  powder.     Grind  very 
fine,  and  make  the  material  into  a  paste  with 
alcohol;   form  it  into  dice,  with  a  knife  or 
spatula,  about  4  inch  square ;  let  them  dry 
rather  gradually  on  a  warm  mantel-piece,  not 
too  near  a  fire.     "When  dry,  fix  one  of  the  lit- 
tle squares  in  a  small  cleft  made  at  the  end  of 
a  stalk  of  broom-corn.     Light  the  material  at 
a  caudle,  hold  the  stem  downward,  and  await 
the  result.    After  the  first  blazing  off,  a  ball 
of  molten  lava  will  form,  from  which  the 
curious  corruscations  will  soon  appear. 

2127.  Japanese  Firework   Mixture. 
Finely  pulverized  nitrate  of  potassa,  70  parts; 
washed  flowers  of  sulphur,  30  parts;  powdered 
lycopodium,   12  parts;   best  and  very  light 
lampblack,  8  parts.    From  li  to  2  grains  of 
this  powder  are  sufficient  for  use  packed  in 
strips  of  suitable  paper. 

2128.  Colored  Flames.     The  flame  of 
alcohol  may  bo  colored  by  mixing  certain  salts 
with  the  spirit.     A  green  color  is  given  by 
muriate  of  copper,  or  boracic  acid.     lied,  by 
nitrate  of  strontian,  nitrate  of  iron,  or  nitrate 
of  lime.     Yellow,  by  nitrate  of  soda,  &c. 

2129.  Greek  Fire.     True  Greek  fire  is 
simply  a  solid,  highly  combustible  composi- 
tion, consisting  of  sulphur  and     phosphorus 
dissolved  in  the  bisulphide  of  carbon,  to  which 
occasionally  some  mineral  oil  is  added,  with 
the  view  01  increasing  its  incendiary  powers. 
When  the  liquid  is  thrown  on  any  surface  ex- 
posed to  the  air  the  solvent  evaporates,  leav- 
ing a  film  of  the  phosphorus  or  sulphide  of 
phosphorus,   which    then     inflames    sponta- 
neously.    The  proper  mode  of  extinguishing 
such  a  fire  is  to  throw  damp  sand,  ashes,  saw- 
dust, lime,  or  any  powder,  wet  sacking  or 
carpeting,  in  short,  any  material  which  will 
exclude  the  air  from  the  fire.    N"o  attempt 
should  be  made  to  remove  the  covering  for 
some  time  after  the  flame  has  been  extin- 
guished.   The  place  should  afterward  be  thor- 
oughly washed  by  a  powerful  jet  of  water 
forced  upon  it. 


,V6S.  This  is  a  general 
I  Jterm  for  all  substances  which  explode 
with  violence.  Some  of  these,  as  gunpowder, 
gun-cotton,  &c.,  explode  by  being  brought 
into  contact  with  fire.  Others,  to  which  the 
term  of  Fulminates  is  applied,  explode  with 
violence  by  slight  heat,  friction,  or  concussion. 


EXPLOSIVES. 


207 


2131.  Fulminating1  Antimony.    Grind 
well  together  100  parts  of  dried  tartar  emetic, 
and  3  parts  of  lampblack,  or  charcoal  powder; 
then   take   a  crucible   capable   of  holding  3 
ounces  of  water,  and  having  ground  its  edge 
smooth,  and  rubbed  the  inside  with  powdered 
charcoal,  £  fill   it  with  the   above  mixture, 
cover  it  with  a  layer  of  charcoal  powder,  and 
lute  on  the  cover.     Expose  it  for  3  hours  to 
a  strong  heat  in  a  reverberatory  furnace,  and, 
when  taken  out,  let  it  stand  to  cool  for  6  or  7 
hours  before  removing  its  contents,  to  prevent 
an  explosion.    The  crucible  being  now  opened, 
the  contents  must  be  hastily  transferred,  with- 
out breaking,  to  a  Avide-inouthed  stoppered 
phial,  when,  after  some  time,  it  will  crumble 
down  into  a  powder  of  itself.     Or :    Triturate 
together,  very  carefully,  100  parts  antimony, 
75   parts  carburetted  (roasted  to  blackness) 
cream  of  tartar,  and  12  parts  lampblack ;  pre- 
serve it  in  phials.     When  the  above  processes 
are  properly  conducted,  the  resulting  powders 
fulminate   violently  on  contact  with  water. 
It  is  to  the  presence  of  the  very  inflammable 
metal  potassium  that  they  owe  this  property. 
Another   compound,  made   with  BO  parts  of 
carburetted  cream  of  tartar,  120  bismuth,  and 
1  of  nitre,  treated  as  above,  contains  an  alloy 
very  rich  in  potassium.     A  piece  the  size  of  a 
pea  introduced  into  a  mass  of  gunpowder  ex- 
plodes it  on  being  thrown  into  water. 

2132.  Fulminating    Gold.      Dissolve 
gold   in  aqua  regia   (made   by  dissolving   4 
ounces  sal  ammoniac  in  12  or  16  ounces  nitric 
acid),  and  precipitate  with  a  solution  of  car- 
bonate of  potassa.     Fulminating  gold  should 
be  made  in  very  small  quantities  at  a  time,  to 
avoid  risk,  as  without  great  care  it  explodes 
with  extreme  violence.     This  is  caused  by  the 
slightest  friction  or  sudden  increase  of  heat. 
Its  fulminating  property  may  be  destroyed  by 
boiling   it  in  pearlash  lye,  or  oil  of  vitriol; 
and  by  heating  the  powder  after  washing  it  in 
water,  pure  gold  will  be  obtained. 

2133.  Fulminating  Silver.     Digest  ox- 
ide of  silver  (recently  precipitated,  and  dried 
by  pressure  between  bibulous  paper)  in  con- 
centrated liquor  of  ammonia  for   12   or    15 
hours,  pour  off  the  liquid,  and  cautiously  dry 
the  black  powder  in  the  air.     The  decanted 
ammonia,    when   gently  heated,    yields,    on 
cooling,  small  crystals,  which  possess  a  still 
more   formidable   power  of  detonation,   and 
will  scarcely  bear  touching,  even  while  under 
the   liquid.     This  compound  is  exploded   by 
the  slightest  friction  or  percussion,  and  should 
therefore  be  only  made  in  very  small  quanti- 
ties at  a  time,  and  handled  with  great  caution. 
Its  explosive  powers  are  tremendous ;  in  fact, 
it  can  hardly  be  handled  with  safety,  even  in 
the   moist   state.     Many    frightful    accidents 
have  happened  from  the  spontaneous  explo- 
sion of  this  substance.     At  most  1  or  2  grains 
can  be  exploded  with  safety  at  one  time. 

2134.  Fulminating  *  Mercury.      Dis- 
solve by  a  gentle  heat  100  parts,  by  weight, 
of  mercury  in  100  parts  nitric  acid  of  specific 
gravity  1.4 ;  and  when  the  solution  has  ac- 
quired  a  temperature  of  130°  Fahr.,  slowly 
pour  it  through  a  glass  funnel  tube-  into  830 
parts   alcohol  of   specific  gravity   .830.     As 
soon  as  the  effervescence  is  over  and  white 
fumes  cease  to  rise,  filter  it  through  double 
paper,   wash  with  cold  water,  and  dry  by 


steam  (not  hotter  than  212°)  or  hot  water. 
This  is  the  formula  of  Dr.  Ure,  and  said  to  be 
the  cheapest  and  safest.  If  parts  by  measure 
be  adopted,  the  above  proportions  will  be,  for 
100  parts,  by  measure,  of  mercury,  740  parts 
niti'ic  acid,  and  830  parts  alcohol. 

2135.  Fulminating    Copper.      Digest 
copper,  in  powder  or  filings,  with  fulminate  of 
mercury  or  of  silver,  and  a  little  water.     It 
forms  soluble  green  crystals  that  explode  with 
a  green  flame. 

2136.  Fulminating  Powder.     Powder 
separately  3  parts  nitre,  2  parts  dry  (sec  No. 
2065)  carbonate  of  potash,  and  1  flowers  of 
sulphur ;  mix  them  together  carefully.     If  20 
grains  of  this  compound  are  slowly  heated  on 
a  shovel  over  the  fire,  it  melts  and  becomes 
brown,  exploding  with  a  loud  report. 

2137.  New   Explosive    Compound. 
B.    G.   Amend  has   observed  that  glycerine 
mixed  with  crystallized  permanganate  of  potas- 
sa in  a  mortar  spontaneously  deflagrates. 

2138.  Priming  for  Percussion  Caps. 
To  make  this  compound  100  grains  of  fulmin- 
ating mercury  are  triturated  with  a  wooden 
muller  on  marble,  with  30  grains  of  water  and 
60  grains  of  gunpowder.     This  is  sufficient  for 
400  caps.      Dr.  TJre  recommends  a  solution  of 
gum  mastich  in  turpentine  as  a  medium  for 
attaching  the  fulminate  to  the  cap. 

2139.  Percussion  Pellets.     Mix  equal 
parts  of  the  chlorate  of  potassa  and  sulphuret 
of  antimony  with  liquid  gum,  so  as  to  form  a 
paste.     When  dry  it  may  be  formed  into  pel- 
lets, and  used  as  percussion  powder  for  guns. 
This  composition,  placed  on  the  ends  of  splints 
dipped  in  sulphur,  produces  friction  matches. 
This  mixture  may  also  be  employed  for  per- 
cussion caps,  only  without  the  gum  ;  the  two 
substances,   mixed  together  dry,   are  forced 
into  the  caps,  and  a  drop  of  varnish  deposited 
on  the  inside  surface  of  each.      A  mixture  of 
the  fulminate  of  mercury,  chlorate  of  potassa, 
and  sulphur,   however,   is    more    commonly 
used  for  lining  percussion  caps. 

2140.  To  Make  Gunpowder.     Pulver-. 
ize  separately,  76  parts  nitrate  of  potassa,  11 
sulphur,  and"  13  freshly  burned  charcoal,  and 
mix  them  with  a  little  water,  so  as  to  form  a 
cake  when  rolled  out  on  a  board.     This  is  then 
dried  on  a  clean  sheet  of  paper  placed  in  a 
warm  situation,  and  afterwards  crumbled  into 
grains.      It  will  form  un  glazed   gunpowder. 
The  pulverized  ingredients,  thoroughly  mixed, 
without  the  addition  of  any  water,  constitute 
what  is  called  meal  powder  ;  this  may  also  be 
made  by  pulverizing  grained  gunpowder  very 
cautiously  in  a  mortar,   or  with  a  muller. 
(Sec  Porphyrization,  No.  25.) 

2141.  To  Prepare  Gun-Cotton.     The 
simplest  way  consists  in  immersing,  for  a  few 
seconds,   well-carded  cotton  in  a  mixture  of 
equal  parts,   by  volume,  of  oil  of  vitriol  of 
specific  gravity  1.845,  and  nitric  acid  of  spe- 
cific gravity  of  1.500.     The  cotton,  when  well 
saturated,  is  to  be  removed  and  squeezed  to 
repel  the  excess  of  acid,  and  then  well  wash- 
ed in  clean  cold  water,  until  the  water  no 
longer  reddens  litmus  paper.     It  is  then  dried 
at  a  heat  not  exceeding  212°.      A  lower  tem- 
perature is  still  safer.     The  cotton  thus  pre- 
pared explodes  well,   but  does  not  dissolve 
easily  in   ether.      TJlider    Collodion  will    be 
found  other  preparations  of  Gun-Cotton. 


208 


CEMENTS   AND    UNITING    BODIES. 


2142.  Nitroglycerine.     This  is  an  oily, 
colorless  liquid,  with  a  specific  gravity  of  1.60. 
It  has  no  smell,  but  a  taste  which  at  first  is 
sweet,  but  soon  becomes  pungent,  like  pepper; 
is  soluble  in  ether  and  methylic  alcohol,  but  | 
not  in  water,  but  the  presence  of  water  di- 
minishes the  risk  of  explosion.     It  begins  to 
evaporate  at  365°  Fahr.    It  has  been  found 
that  pure  nitro-glycerine,  dropped  upon  a  thor- 
oughly red  hot  iron,  assumes  a  spheroidal  state 
and  flashes  off  into  vapor  in  the  same  way  as 
gunpowder;  but  if  the  iron  is  not  red  hot, 
only  hot  enough  to  cause  the  nitro-glycerine 
to  boil  suddenly,  a  frightful  explosion  takes 
place.    The  explosion  of  a  single  drop  in  this 
manner  will  cause  serious  damage.    This  dan- 
gerous compound  requires  most  careful  hand- 
ling, a  slight  shock  sometimes  exploding  it. 

2143.  To  Prepare  Nitro-glycerine. 
Mix  100  parts  fuming  nitric  acid  at  50°  Baume 
with  200  parts  sulphuric  acid;  when  cool,  add 
38  parts    glycerine    slowly,   allowing   it    to 
trickle  down  the  sides  of  the  vessel.    The 
glycerine  will  remain  on  the  surface  for  hours 
without  mixing.     Stir  the  glycerine  and  acids 
with  a  glass  rod  for  10  seconds,  pour  it  into 
20  times  its  volume  of  water,  and  the  nitro- 
glycerine will  be  instantly  precipitated  to  the 
extent  of  76  parts,  or  double  the  amount  of 
glycerine  employed.    It  must  be  repeatedly 
washed  with  water,  and  then  saturated  with 
bicarbonate  of  soda  or  lime. 

2144.  Blasting   Powders.      Neither 
fresh  nor  salt  water  has  any  injurious  effect 
on  blasting  powders;  they  need  only  to  be 
dried  to    regain    their    explosive    character. 
Their  emitting  but  little  smoke  renders  them 
useful  in  underground  operations,  and  their 
explosive  force  is  eight  times  that  of  gun- 
powder.   They  explode  with  extreme  facility, 
either  by  contact  with  a  strong  acid,  a  slight 
elevation  of  temperature,  or  the  slightest  fric- 
tion.   In  preparing  them,  therefore,  excessive 
precaution  is  necessary,  especially  in  mixing 
the   ingredients.      A  straw,   slightly  wetted 
with  oil  of  vitriol,  applied  to  a  small  heap  of  the 
powder,  will  cause  instantaneous  explosion. 

2145.  To   Make   Blasting  Powder. 
Reduce  separately  to  powder,  2  parts  chlorate 
of  potassa  and  1  part  red  sulphuret  of  arsenic; 
mix    very   lightly  together.      Or: — Powder 
separately,  5  parts  chlorate  of  potassa,  2  parts 
red  sulphuret  of  arsenic,  and  1  part  ferrocyan- 
ide  of  potassium  (prussiate  of  potassa) ;  mix 
carefully.      Or: — Mix    carefully,   as    before, 
after  having  separately  reduced  to  powder, 
equal  parts  chlorate  of  potassa  and  ferrocyanide 
of  potassium. 

2146.  Parlor  or  Congreve  Matches. 
Dissolve  16  parts  gum-arabic  in  the  least  pos- 
sible quantity  of  water,  and  mix  with  it  9 
parts  phosphorus  in  powder  (sec  No.  2696) ; 
then  add  14  parts  nitre  (saltpetre),  and   16 
parts  of  either  vermilion   (red  sulphuret  of 
mercury),  or  binoxide  (black  oxide)  of  man- 
ganese, and  form  the  whole  into  a  paste.     Dip 
the  matches  into  this  paste,  and  then  let  them 
dry.     "When  quite  dry  they  are  to  be  dipped 
into  a  very  dilute  copal  or  lac  varnish,  and 
again  dried;  by  this  means  they  are  less  likely 
to  suffer  from  damp  weather. 

2147.  Cheap  Parlor  Matches.  A 
cheaper  paste  for  dipping  may  be  made  by 
soaking  6  parts  glue  for  24  hours  in  a  little 


water,  and  liquefied  by  rubbing  in  a  heated 
mortar;  4  parts  phosphorus  are  next  added 
at  a  heat  not  exceeding  150°  Fahr.;  then  add 
10  parts  finely  powdered  saltpetre ;  and  lastly 
5  parts  red  lead  and  2  parts  smalts  are  mixed 
in,  the  whole  being  formed  into  a  uniform 
paste.  The  matches  are  dipped,  dried,  var- 
nished, and  dried  again,  as  before. 

2148.  To  Make  Matches  Without 
Sulphur.     To  obviate  the  use  of  sulphur  for 
igniting  the  wood  of  the  match,  the  ends  of 
the  matches  are  first  slightly  charred  by  nib- 
bing them  against  a  red  hot  iron  plate,  and 
then  dipped  into  as  much  white  wax,  melted 
in  a  suitable  vessel,  as  will  cover  the  bottom 
about  i  inch  in  depth.      Or  they  may  be 
dipped  into   camphorated  spirit.     Or  into  a 
solution  of  1  ounce  Yenice  turpentine  and  i 
ounce  camphor,  in  J  pint  oil  of  turpentine, 
with  a  little  gum-benzoin  and  cascarilla  by 
way  of   perfume.     After  any  of  the   above 
preparations  the  matches  are  ready  for  dip- 
ping in  the  phosphorus  paste. 

2149.  Substitute  for  Lucifer  Matches. 
The  dangers  arising  from  the  universal  adop- 
tion of  the  common  lucifer  match  have  in- 
duced chemists  to  seek  a  substitute  for  it.     M. 
Peltzer  has  recently  proposed  a  compound 
which  is  obtained  m  the  shape  of  a  violet 
powder,  by  mixing  together  equal  volumes  of 
solutions  of  sulphate  of  copper,  one  of  which 
is    supersaturated   with    ammonia,   and    the 
other  with  hyposulphite  of  soda.    A  mixture 
of  chlorate  of  potash  and  the  above  powder 
will  catch  fire  by  percussion  or  rubbing;  it 
burns  like  gunpowder,   and  leaves  a  black 
residue.     M.   Viederbold  proposes  a  mixture 
of  hyposulphite  of  lead,  or  baryta,  or  chlorate 
of  potash,  for  matches  without  phosphorus. 
The  only  inconvenience  of  this  compound  is 
that  it  attracts  moisture  too  easily. 

2150.  Mixtures  for  Matches.  For 
sulphur  dips :  Phosphorus,  3  parts ;  glue,  6 
parts ;  sand,  1  part ;  incorporated  below  100° 
Fahr.,  with  10  parts  of  water.  Or,  phospho- 
rus, 5  parts ;  fine  sand,  4  parts ;  red  ochre,  1 
part  (or,  ultramarine),  £  part;  gum-arabic,  5 
parts,  in  6  pints  of  water  (or,  4  parts  of  glue 
in  9  parts  or  water).  For  stearine  dips :  Phos- 
phorus, 3  parts;  brown  oxide  of  lead,  2  parts; 
turpentine,  |  part,  softened  in  3  parts  water. 
Instead  of  the  brown  oxide,  2  parts  of  red 
lead  stirred  up  with  i  part  of  nitric  acid  may 
be  used. 


Cements  and  Uniting 

^-"^  Bod.i6S.  In  the  preparation  of  ce- 
ments and  all  substances  intended  to  produce 
close  adhesion,  whether  in  a  semi-fluid  or 
pasty  state,  freedom  from  dirt  and  grease  is  a 
most  essential  and  necessary  condition.  Quite 
as  much  depends  upon  the  manner  in  which  a 
cement  is  applied  as  upon  the  cement  itself. 
The  best  cement  that  ever  was  compounded 
would  prove  entirely  worthless  if  improperly 
applied.  The  preparations  given  below  will 
be  found  to  answer  every  reasonable  demand; 
and  if  prop"erly  prepared  and  used  strictly  ac- 
cording to  the  directions  laid  down,  will  sel- 
dom fail  to  form  a  union  as  strong,  if  not 
stronger  than  the  substances  joined.  The 
first  point  that  demands  attention,  is  to  bring 


CEMENTS   AND    UNITING    BODIES 


209 


the  cement  itself  into  intimate  contact  with 
the  surface  to  be  united.  This  end  is  best 
reached,  when  using  hot  cements,  by  making 
the  edges  to  be  joined  at  least  as  hot  as  the 
cement  when  applied,  or  as  nearly  so  as  can 
be  done  without  injury  to  the  substance;  in 
eorne  cases  it  is  even  preferable  to  melt  the 
cement  on  the  heated  edges.  Another  very 
important  point  is  to  use  as  little  cement  as 
possible.  "WTien  the  surfaces  are  separated  by 
a  large  mass  of  cement,  we  have  to  depend 
upon  the  strength  of  the  cement  itself,  and 
not  upon  its  adhesion  to  the  surfaces  which  it 
is  used  to  join ;  and,  in  general,  cements  are 
comparatively  brittle.  Sealing-wax  is  a  very 
good  agent  for  uniting  mefeal  to  glass  or  stone, 
provided  the  masses  to  be  united  are  made  so 
hot  as  to  fuse  the  cement ;  but  if  the  cement 
is  applied  to  them  while  they  are  cold,  it  will 
not  stick  at  all.  This  fact  is  well  known  to 
venders  of  cement  for  uniting  earthenware. 
By  heating  two  pieces,  so  that  they  will  fuse 
shellac,  they  are  able  to  join  them  so  that 
they  will  rather  break  at  any  other  part  than 
along  the  line  of  union.  But  although  people 
constantly  see  the  operation  performed,  and 
buy  liberally  of  the  cement,  it  will  be  found 
in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  the  cement  proves 
worthless  in  their  hands,  simply  because  they 
do  not  know  how  to  use  it.  They  are  afraid 
to  heat  a  delicate  glass  or  porcelain  vessel  to 
a  sufficient  degree,  and  they  are  apt  to  use  too 
much  of  the  material,  and  the  result  is  a  fail- 
ure ;  the  cement  is  consequently  deemed 
good  for  nothing.  The  great  obstacles  to  the 
junction  of  any  two  surfaces  are  air  and  dirt. 
The  former  is  universally  present,  the  latter  is 
due  to  accident  or  carelessness.  All  surfaces 
are  covered  with  a  thin  adhering  layer  of  air 
which  it  is  difficult  to  remove,  and  unless  this 
is  displaced,  the  cement  cannot  adhere  to  the 
surface  to  which  it  is  applied,  simply  because 
it  cannot  come  into  contact  with  it.  The 
most  efficient  agent  in  displacing  this  adher- 
ing air  is  heat.  Metals  warmed  to  a  point  a 
little  above  200°  become  instantly  and  com- 
pletely wet  when  immersed  in  water.  Hence, 
for  cements  that  are  used  in  a  fused  condition, 
heat  is  the  most  efficient  means  of  bring- 
ing them  in  contact  with  the  surfaces  to 
which  they  are  to  be  applied.  In  the  case  of 
glue,  the  adhesion  is  best  attained  by  moder- 
ate pressure  and  friction. 

2152.  Armenian    or    Jeweler's    Ce- 
ment.       The  following  is  a  receipt  for  a 
strong  cement  used  by  some  oriental  nations, 
for  the  purpose  of  attaching  precious  stones 
to  metallic  surfaces :     Take  6  pieces  of  gum 
mastic,  the  size  of  a  pea,  and  dissolve  them 
in  the  smallest  possible  quantity  of  95  per 
cent,  alcohol.     Soften  some  isinglass  in  wa- 
ter (though  none  of  the  water  must  be  used), 
and   saturate   strong  brandy  with  it  till  you 
have  2  ounces  of  glue ;  then  rub  in  2  small 
pieces  of  gum  ammoniac.     Mix  the  two  pre- 
parations  at  a  heat.     Keep  well  stoppered. 
Set  the  bottle  in  hot  water  before  using.     It 
is  said  by  the  Turks  that  this  preparation  will 
unite  two  metallic  surfaces,  even  of  polished 
steel. 

2153.  Keller's  Armenian  Cement  for 
Glass,    China,    &c.     Soak    2  drachms  cut 
isinglass  in  2  ounces  water  for  24  hours ;  boil 
down  to  1  ounce ;  add  1  ounce  spirit  of  wine, 


and  strain  through  linen.  Mix  this,  while  hot, 
with  a  solution  of  1  drachm  mastic  in  1  ounce 
rectified  spirit,  and  triturate  thoroughly  with 
|  drachm  powdered  gum  ammoniac. 

2154.  Tire's  Diamond  Cement.    Take 
1  ounce  isinglass  and  6  ounces  distilled  water; 
boil  down  to  3  ounces ;  add  1£  ounces  recti- 
fied spirit.     Boil  for  2  minutes,  strain,  and 
add,  while  hot,  h  ounce  of  a  milky  emulsion 
of  ammoniac,  and  5  drachms  tincture  of  gum 
mastic. 

2155.  Chinese   Cement.     Take  of  or- 
ange shellac,  bruised,  4  ounces ;  highly  recti- 
fied spirit  of  wine,  3  ounces.     Set  the  mixture 
in  a  warm  place,  frequently  shaking  it  till  the 
shellac  is  dissolved.    Wood  naphtha  may  be 
substituted  for  the  spirit  of  wine,  but  the  un- 
pleasant smell  of  the  naphtha  is  some  objec- 
tion. 

2156.  To  Mend   Broken   Glass.     A 
much    better   process    for   mending  broken 
glass,   china  and  earthenware  with  shellac, 
than  heating  them,  is  to  dissolve  the  shellac 
in  alcohol  to  about  the  consistence  of  molasses, 
and  with  a  thin  splinter  of  wood  or  pencil- 
brush  touch  the  edges  of  the  broken  ware.    In 
a  short  time  it  sets  without  any  heating,  which 
is  often  inconvenient.    It  will  stand  every 
contingency  but  a    heat    equal    to    boiling 
water. 

2157.  To     Mend     Crockery   Ware. 
One  of  the  strongest  cements  and  easiest  ap- 
plied for  this  purpose  is  lime  and  the  white 
of  an  egg.    To  use  it,  take  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  the  egg  to  mend  one  article  at  a  time, 
shave  off  a  quantity  of  lime,  and  mix  thor- 
oughly.    Apply  quickly  to  the    edges    and 
place  firmly  together,  when  it  will  very  soon 
become  set  and  strong.     Mix  but    a    small 
quantity  at  once,  as  it  hardens  very  soon,  so 
that  it  cannot  be  used.     Calcined  plaster  of 
Paris  would  answer  the  same  purpose. 

2158.  Badigeon.     A  cement  used  by 
operatives  and  artists  to  fill  up  holes  and 
cover  defects  in  their  work.    Statuaries  use  a 
mixture  of  plaster  and  free-stone  for  this  pur- 
pose ;  carpenters,  a  mixture  of  sawdust  and 
glue,  or  of  whiting  and  glue ;  coopers  use  a 
mixture  of  tallow  and    chalk.      The    same 
name  is  given  to  a  stone  colored  mixture  used 
for  the  fronts  of  houses,  and  said  to  be  com- 
posed of  wood-dust  and  lime  slacked  together, 
stone-powder,  and  a  little  umber  or  sienna, 
mixed  up  with  alum  water  to  the  consistence 
of  paint. 

2159.  Japanese  Cement.     Intimately 
mix  the  best  powdered  rice  with  a  little  cold 
water,  then  gradually  add  boiling  water  until 
a  proper  consistence  is  acquired,  being  par- 
ticularly careful  to  keep  it  well  stirred  all  the 
time ;  lastly,  it  must  be  boiled  for  one  minute 
in  a  clean  sauce-pan  or  earthen  pipkin.    This 
glue  is  beautifully  white  and  almost  transpar- 
ent, for  which  reason  it  is  well  adapted  for 
fancy  paper  work,  which  requires  a  strong 
and  colorless  cement. 

2160.  Curd  Cement.     Add  i  pint  vine- 
gar to  |  pint  skimmed  milk.     Mix  the  curd 
with  the  whites  of  5  eggs  well  beaten,  and 
sufficient  powdered  quick-lime  sifted  in  with 
constant  stirring,  so  as  to  form  a  paste.     It 
resists  water,  and  a  moderate  degree  of  heat, 
and  is  useful  for  joining  small  pieces  of  marble 
or  alabaster. 


210 


CEMENTS   AND    UNITING    BODIES. 


2161.  To  Make  a  Cement  that  will 
Resist  Benzine  and  Petroleum.    It  has 
quite  recently  been  discovered  that  gelatine 
mixed  with  glycerine  yields  a  compound  li- 
quid when  hot,  but  which  solidifies  on  cooling, 
and  forms  a  tough,  elastic  substance,  having 
much  the  appearance  and  characteristics  of 
India  rubber.     The  two  substances  united 
form  a  mixture  entirely  and  absolutely  insol- 
uble in  petroleum  or  benzine,  and  the  great 
problem  of  making  casks  impervious  to  these 
fluids  is  at  once  solved  by  brushing  or  paint- 
ing them  on  the  inside  with  the  compound. 
This  is  also  used  for  printers'  rollers  and  for 
buffers  of  stamps,  as  benzine  or  petroleum 
will  clean  them  when  dirty  in  the  most  perfect 
manner  and  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of 
time.    "Water  must  not  be  used  with  this  com- 
pound. 

2162.  Cement  to  Resist  Petroleum. 
A  cement  peculiarly  adapted  to  stand  petro- 
leum or  any  of  its  distillates  is  made  by  boil- 
ing 3  parts  resin  with  1  caustic  soda  and  5 
water.     This  forms  a  resin  soap  which  is  after- 
ward mixed  with  half  its  weight  of  plaster  of 
Paris,  zinc  white,  white  lead,  or  precipitated 
chalk.    The  plaster  hardens  in  about  40  min- 
utes. 

2163.  Cement  for  Aquaria.     Mix  3 
pounds  well  dried  Venetian  red  (finely  pow- 
dered) with  1  pound  oxide  of  iron,  and  add  as 
much  boiling  oil  as  will  reduce  it  to  a  stiff 
paste. 

2164.  Cement  for  Marine  Aquaria. 
Take  10  parts  by  measure  litharge,  10  parts 
plaster  of  Paris,  10  parts  dry  white  sand,  1 
part  finely  powdered  resin,  and  mix  them, 
when  wanted  for  use,  into  a  pretty  stiff  putty 
with  boiled  linseed  oil.    This  will  stick  to 
wood,   stone,   metal,  or  glass,   and  hardens 
under  water.     It  is  also  good  for  marine  aqua- 
ria, as  it  resists  the  action  of  salt  water.    It  is 
better  not  to  use  the  tank  until  3  days  after  it 
has  been  cemented. 

2165.  Water  Cement.     Manganese  is 
found  to  be  a  valuable  ingredient  in  water  ce- 
ments.   4  parts  gray  clay  are  to  be  mixed 
with  6  parts  black  oxide  of  manganese,  and 
about  90  parts  good  lime  stone  reduced  to 
fine  powder,  the  whole  to  be  calcined  to  expel 
the  carbonic  acid ;   when  well  calcined  and 
cooled,  to  be  worked  into  the  consistence  of 
a  stiff  paste,  with  60  parts  washed  sand. 

2166.  Cement   for   Glass    Syringes. 
Take  resin,  2  parts;   gutta  percha,  1  part; 
melt  together  over  a  slow  fire,  apply  hot,  and 
trim  with  a  hot  knife. 

2167.  Quickly-Setting   Bust   Joint 
Cement.     Make  into  a  paste  with  water  1 
part  by  weight  sal  ammoniac  in  powder,  2 
parts  flower  of  sulphur,  and  80  parts  iron 
borings. 

2168.  Slowly-Setting  Bust  Joint  Ce- 
ment.    Make  into  a  paste  with  water,  2  parts 
eal  ammoniac,  1  part  flower  of  sulphur,  and 
200  parts  iron  borings.     This  cement  is  better 
than  the  last  if  the  joint  is  not  required  for 
immediate  use. 

2169.  Bed  Lead  Cement  for  Face 
Joints.     Mix  1  part  each  white  and  red  lead 
with  linseed  oil  to  the  proper  consistence. 

2170.  Singer's  Cement  for  Electrical 
Machines  and  Galvanic  Troughs.    Melt 
together  5  pounds  resin.,  and  1  pound  bees' 


wax,  and  stir  in  1  pound  red  ochre  (highly 
dried,  and  still  warm),  with  4  ounces  Paris 
plaster,  continuing  the  heat  a  little  above  212° 
and  stirring  constantly  till  all  frothing  ceases. 
Or,  (for  troughs),  resin,  6  pounds ;  dried  red 
ochre,  1  pound;  calcined  plaster  of  Paris,  i 
pound ;  linseed  oil,  £  pound. 

2171.  Cement  for  Bopms.  M.  Sarel, 
of  Paris,  has  made  an  invention  which  is  pro- 
nounced better  than  plaster  of  Paris  for  coat- 
ing the  walls  and  ceilings  of  rooms.  A  coat 
of  oxide  of  zinc,  mixed  with  size,  made  up 
like  a  wash,  is  first  laid  on,  and  over  that  a 
coat  of  chloride  of  zinc  applied,  prepared  in 
the  same  way  as  the  first  wash.  The  oxide 
and  chloride  effect  an  immediate  combination, 
and  form  a  kind  of  cement,  smooth  and  pol- 
ished as  glass,  and  possessing  the  advantages 
of  oil  paint  without  its  disadvantages  of  smell. 

2172.  Coppersmith's  or  Blood  Ce- 
ment.    Bullock's  blood  thickened  with  finely 
powdered  quicklime  makes  a  good  cement  to 
secure  the  edges  and  rivets  of  copper  boilers, 
to  mend  leaks  from  joints,  &c.    It  must  be 
used  as  soon  as  mixed,  as  it  rapidly  gets  hard. 
It  is  extremely  cheap  and  very  durable,  and 
is  suited  for  many  purposes  where  a  strong 
cement  is  required. 

2173.  Pew's  Composition  for  Cover- 
ing Buildings.     Take  the  hardest  and  purest 
limestone  (white  marble  is  to  be  preferred), 
free  from  sand,  clay,  or  other  matter ;  calcine 
it  in  a  reverberatory  furnace,  pulverize,  and 
pass  it  through  a  sieve.     1  part,  by  weight,  is 
to  be  mixed  with  2  parts  clay  well  baked  and 
similarly  pulverized,   conducting  the    whole 
operation  with  great  care.    This  forms  the 
first  powder.    The  second  is  to  be  made  of  1 
part    calcined    and    pulverized    gypsum,    to 
which  is  added  2  parts  clay,  baked  and  pul- 
verized.   These  two  powders  are  to*  be  com- 
bined, and  intimately  incorporated,  so  as  to 
form  a  perfect  mixture.    When  it  is  to  be 
used,  mix  it  with  about  a  fourth  part  of  its 
weight  of  water,  added  gradually,  stirring  the 
mass  well  the  whole  time,  until  it  forms  a 
thick  paste,  in  which  state  it  is  to  be  spread 
like  mortar  upon  the  desired  surface.     It  be- 
comes in  time  as  hard  as  stone,  allows  no 
moisture  to  penetrate,  and  is  not  cracked  by 
heat.    "When  well  prepared  it  will  last  any 
length  of  time.    "When  in  its  plastic  or  soft 
state,  it  may  be  colored  of  any  desired  tint. 

2174.  Hard  Hydraulic  Cement.     A 
cement  which  is  said  to  have  been  used  with 
great  success  in  covering  terraces,  lining  ba- 
sins, cementing  stones,  etc.,  resisting  the  fil- 
tration of  water,  and  so  hard  that  it  scratches 
iron,  is  formed  of  63  parts  well-burned  brick, 
and  7  parts  litharge,  pulverized  and  moistened 
with  linseed  oil.      Moisten  the  surfaces  to 
which  it  is  to  be  applied. 

2175.  Universal  Cement.     Dissolve  2 
ounces  mastic  in  just  enough  95  per  cent,  al- 
cohol to  effect    a    solution.    Then    soak    2 
ounces  isinglass,  or  fish-glue  until  it  is  thor- 
oughly softened.     Dissolve  the  isinglass  in 
proof  spirits  sufficient  to  form  a  strong  glue, 
and  then  add  1  ounce  finely  pulverized  gum  am- 
moniac.   "Warm  the  two  mixtures  together 
over  a  slow  fire,  and  when  they  are  thorough- 
ly mixed,  bottle  and  hermetically  seal  them. 
This  cement  becomes  perfectly  dry  in  12  or 
15  hours.    "When  the  cement  is  to  be  used, 


CEMENTS   AND     UNITING    BODIES. 


211 


the  bottle  should  be  heated  in  a  water  bath  to 
liquefy  it;  the  fragments  to  be  cementec 
should  also  be  heated  before  joining  them, 
and,  as  a  matter  of  course,  the  surfaces  we! 
cleaned.  Glass,  crockery,  &c.,  restored  by 
the  above  cement,  are  as  solid  as  before  hav- 

i  ing  been  mended,  and  the  seams  are  scarcely 

I  risible. 

2176.  To  Cement  Amber.    Amber  is 
joined  or  mended  by  smearing  the  surface? 
with  boiled  linseed  oil,  and  strongly  pressing 
them  together,  at  the  same  time  holding  them 
over  a  charcoal  fire  or  heating  them  in  any 
other  way  that  will  not  injure  the  amber. 

2177.  To  Cement  Alabaster  and  Plas- 
ter.    Ornaments  of  alabaster  or  plaster  may 
be  joined  together  by  means  of  a  little  white 
of  egg,  thickened  with  finely-powdered  quick- 
lime, or  by  a  mixture  of  newly-baked  and 
finely-powdered  plaster  of  Paris,   mixed  up 
with  the  least  possible  quantity  of  water. 

2178.  Mending  Plaster  Models.  Wax 
and  resin,  or  shellac  varnish,  is  recommended 
for  the  above  purpose.    Dr.  Chaim  suggests 
the  use  of  liquid  silex.     "Wet  the  two  surfaces 
with  it,  and  allow  a  few  moments  to  dry.     It 
will  be  found  very  useful  in  cases  of  accident 
to  a  cast. 

2179.  Waterproof  Mastic   Cement. 
Mix  together  1  part  red  lead  to  5  parts  ground 
lime,  and  5  parts  sharp  sand,  with  boiled  oil. 
Or :  1  part  red  lead  to  5  whiting  and  10  sharp 
sand  mixed  with  boiled  oil. 

2180.  Marble     Workers'     Cement. 
Flower  of  sulphur,  1  part ;    hydrochlorate  of 
ammonia,  2  parts ;  iron  filings,  16  parts.     The 
above  substances  must  be  reduced  to  a  pow- 
der, and  securely  preserved  in  closely  stop- 
ped vessels.     "When  the  cement  is  to  be  em- 
ployed, take  20  parts  very  fine  iron  filings, 
add  1  part  of  the  above  powder,  mix  them 
together  with  enough  water  to  form  a  man- 
ageable  paste.     This  paste  solidifies    in   20 
days  and  becomes  as  hard  as  iron. 

2181.  Masons'  Cement  for  Coating 
the  Insides  of  Cisterns.     Take  equal  parts 
of  quicklime,   pulverized  baked  bricks,  and 
wood  ashes.     Thoroughly  mix  the  above  sub- 
stances, and  dilute  with  sufficient  olive  oil  to 
form  a  manageable  paste.   This  cement  imme- 
diately hardens  in  the  air,  and  never  cracks 
beneath  the  water. 

2182.  Colored    Cements.      Professor 
Boettger  prepares  cement  of  different  colors 
and  great  hardness  by  mixing  various  bases 
with  soluble  glass.     Soluble  soda  glass  of  33° 
Baume  is  to  be  thoroughly  stirred  and  mixed 
with  fine  chalk,  and  the  coloring  matter  (see 
12  following  receipts}  well  incorporated.     In 
the  course  of  6  or  8  hours  a  hard  cement  will 
set,  which  is   capable  of  a  great  variety   of 
uses.     As  soluble  glass  can  be  kept  on  hand 
in  liquid  form,   and  the  chalk  and  coloring 
matters  are  permanent  and  cheap,  the  colored 
cements  can  be  readily  prepared  when  wanted, 
and  the  material  can  be  kept  in  stock,  ready 
for  use,  at  but  little   expense.     Boettger  re- 
commeuds  the  following  coloring  matters : 

2183.  Black  Cement.     "Well  sifted  sul- 
phide of  antimony,  mixed  with  soluble  glass 
and  chalk  (see  No.  2182),  gives  a  black  mass, 
which,  after  solidifying,  can  be  polished  or 
burnished  with  agate,  and  then  possesses   a 
fine  metallic  lustre. 


2184.  Grey-Black  Cement.    Fine  iron 
dust,  mixed  as  in  No.  2182,  gives  a  grey-black 
cement. 

2185.  Grey  Cement.    Zinc  dust.    This, 
used  as  in  No.  2182,  makes  a  grey  mass,  ex- 
ceedingly hard,  which,  on  polishing,  exhibits 
a  brilliant  metallic    lustre  of  zinc,    so  that 
broken  or   defective    zinc    castings  may  be 
mended  and  restored  by  a  cement  that  might 
be  called  a  cold  zinc  casting.     It  adheres  firm- 
ly to  metal,  stone,  and  wood. 

2186.  Bright  Green  Cement.    Carbon- 
ate of  copper,  used  according  to  No.  2182, 
gives  a  bright  green  cement. 

2187.  Dark  Green  Cement.    Sesqui- 
oxide   of  chromium,   mixed  as  in  No.  2182, 
gives  a  dark  green  cement. 

2188.  Blue  Cement.    Thenard's  blue, 
used  as  in  No.  2182,  makes  a  blue  cement. 

2189.  Yellow  Cement.     Litharge,  with 
soluble  glass,  <fcc.,  see  No.  2182,  gives  a  yel- 
low cement. 

2190.  Bright  Bed  Cement.    Cinnabar, 
used  as  directed  in  No.  2182,  makes  a  bright 
red  cement. 

2191.  Violet  Bed  Cement.     Carmine, 
used  as  in  No.  2182,  yields  a  violet  red  cement. 

2192.  White    Cement.      The    soluble 
glass  with  fine  chalk  alone  (see  No.  2182) 
gives  a  white  cement  of  great  beauty  and 
hardness. 

2193.  Black  Cement.     Sulphide  of  an- 
timony and  iron  dust,  in  equal  proportions, 
stirred  in  with  soluble  glass  (see  No.  2182), 
afford  an  exceedingly  firm  black  cement. 

2194.  Dark  Grey  Cement.    Zinc  dust 
and  iron  in  equal  proportions,  used  as  in  No. 
2182,  yield  a  hard  dark  grey  cement. 

2195.  Portland  Cement.     Portland  ce- 
ment is  formed  of  clay  and  limestone,  gener- 
ally containing  some  silica,  the  properties  of 
which  may  vary  without  injury  to  the  ce- 
ment.   The  proportion  of  clay  may  also  vary 
from  19  to  25  per  cent,  without  detriment. 
The  only  necessary  condition  for  the  forma- 
tion of  a  good  artificial  Portland  cement,  is 
an  intimate  and  homogeneous  mixture  of  car- 
bonate of  lime  and  clay,   the  proportion  of 
clay  being  as  above  stated.    The  materials 
are  raised  to  a  white  heat  in  kilns  of  the  prop- 
er form,   so  that  they  are  almost  vitrified. 
After  the  calcination  all  pulverulent  and  scor- 
ified portions  are  carefully  pricked  out  and 
thrown  away.     The  remainder  is  then  finely 
ground    and    becomes   ready   for  use.     The 
amount  of  water  which  enters  into  combina- 
tion with  it  in  mixing  is  about  .366  by  weight. 
It  sets  slowly,  from  12  to  18  hours  being  re- 
quired.      Made  into    a    thin    solution  like 
whitewash,  this  cement  gives  woodwork  all 
the  appearance  of  having  been  painted  and 
sanded.     Piles  of  stone  may  be  set  together 
with  common  mortar,   and  then  the  whole 
washed  over  with  this  cement,  making  it  look 
like  one  immense  rock  of  grey  sandstone. 
For  temporary  use  a  flour-barrel  may  have 
the  hoops  nailed,  and  the  inside  washed  with 
a  little  Portland  cement,  and  it  will  do  for  a 
year  or  more  to  hold  water.    Boards  nailed 
;ogether,  and  washed  with  it,  make  good  hot- 
water  tanks.     Its  water-resisting  properties 
make  it  useful  for  a  variety  of  purposes. 

2196.  Mastic  Cements,  or  Pierre  Ar- 
;ificielle.    Boettger  says  that  these  cements 


212 


CEMENTS   AND     UNITING    BODIES. 


are  mixtures  of  100  parts  each  of  sand,  lime- 
stone, and  litharge,  with  7  parts  linseed  oil. 
These  ingredients,  carefully  mixed  and  well 
worked  together,  will  have  the  consistency  of 
moist  sand,  and  at  first  but  little  coherence. 
When  pressed,  however,  the  mixture  gradual- 
ly acquires  the  hardness  of  ordinary  sand- 
stone, and  in  six  months  time  will  emit  sparks 
when  struck  with  steel.  The  binding  agents 
in  such  cements  are  the  litharge  and  oil,  the 
sand  giving  the  body,  and  limestone  or  chalk 
filling  up  the  interstices. 

2197.  Coarse  Stuff  for  Plastering. 
Coarse  stuff,  or  lime  and  hair,  as  it  is  some- 
times called,  is  prepared  in  the  same  way  as 
common  mortar,  with  the  addition  of  hair 
procured  from  the  tanner,  which  must  be  well 
mixed  with  the  mortar  by  means  of  a  three- 
pronged  rake,  until  the  hair  is  equally  dis- 
tributed throughout  the  composition.  The 
mortar  should  be  first  formed,  and  when  the 
lime  and  sand  have  been  thoroughly  mixed, 
the  hair  should  be  added  by  degrees,  and  the 
whole  so  thoroughly  united  that  the  hair  shall 
appear  to  be  equally  distributed  throughout. 

2198.  Fine  Stuff  for  Plastering.    This 
is  made  by  slacking  lime  with  a  small  portion 
of  water,  after  which  sufficient  water  is  added 
to  give  it  the  consistence  of  cream.    It  is 
then  allowed  to  settle  for  some  time,  and  the 
superfluous  water  is  poured  off,  and  the  sedi- 
ment suffered  to  remain  till  evaporation  re- 
duces it  to  a  proper  thickness  for  use.    For 
some  kinds  of  work  it  is  necessary  to  add  a 
small  portion  of  hair. 

2199.  Stucco  for  Inside  of  Walls. 
This  stucco  consists  of  3  parts  fine  stuff  (see 
No.  2198)  and  1  part  fine  washed  sand.     Those 
parts  of  interior  walls  which  are  intended  to 
be  painted  are  finished  with  this  stucco.    In 
using  this  material,  great  care  must  be  taken 
that  the  surface  be  perfectly  level,  and  to 
secure  this  it  must  be  well  worked  with  a 
floating  tool  or  wooden  trowel.     This  is  done 
by  sprinkling  a  little  water  occasionally  on 
the  stucco,  and  rubbing  it  in  a  circular  direction 
with  the  float,  till  the  surface  has  attained  a 
high  gloss.    The  durability  of  the  work  much 
depends    upon    how  it   is   done,  for  if  not 
thoroughly  worked  it  is  apt  to  crack. 

2200.  Gauge  Stuff.      This  is  chiefly 
used  for  mouldings  and  cornices  which  are 
run  or  formed  with  a  wooden  mould.     It  con- 
sists of  about  £  plaster  of  Paris,  mixed  grad- 
ually   with    $    fine   stuff.     (See  No.   2198.) 
When  the  work  is  required  to  set  very  expe- 
ditiously,  the  proportion  of  plaster  of  Paris  is 
increased.      It  is  often  necessary  that    the 
plaster  to  be  used  should  have  the  property 
of  setting  immediately  it  is  laid  on,  and  in  all 
such  cases  gauge  stuff  is  used,  and  conse- 
quently it  is  extensively  employed  for  cement- 

i  ing  ornaments  to  walls  or  ceilings,  as  well  as 
for  casting  the  ornaments  themselves. 

2201.  Higgins'  Stucco.     To  15  pounds 
best  stone  lime  add  14  pounds  bone  ashes, 
finely  powdered,  and  about  95  pounds  clean, 
washed  sand,  quite  dry,  either  coarse  or  fine, 
according  to  the  nature  of  the  work  in  hand. 
These  ingredients  must  be  intimately  mixed, 
and  kept  from  the  air  till  wanted.    When  re- 
quired for  use,  it  must  be  mixed  up  into  a 
proper  consistence  for  working  with  lime  wa- 
ter, and  used  as  speedily  as  possible. 


2202.  Durable  Composition  for  Or- 
naments.    This  is  frequently  used,  instead 
of  plaster  of  Paris,  for  the  ornamental  parts  of 
buildings,  as  it  is  more  durable,  and  becomes 
in  time  as  hard  as  stone  itself.    It  is  of  great 
use  in  the  execution  of  the  decorative  parts 
of  architecture,  and  also  in  the  finishings  of 
picture  frames,  being  a  cheaper  method  than 
carving,  by  nearly  80  per  cent.    It  is  made  as 
follows:  2  pounds  best  whitening,  1  pound  glue, 
and  i  pound  linseed  oil  are  heated  together, 
the  composition  being  continually  stirred  until 
the  different  substances  are  thoroughly  incor- 
porated.   Let  the  compound  cool,  and  then  lay 
it  on  a  stone  covered  with  powdered  whiten- 
ing, and  heat  it  well  until  it  becomes  of  a 
tough  and  firm  consistence.     It  may  then  be 

Eut  by  for  use,  covered  with  wet  cloths  to 
eep  it  fresh.  When  wanted  for  use  it  must 
be  cut  into  pieces  adapted  to  the  size  of  the 
mould,  into  which  it  is  forced  by  a  screw 
press.  The  ornament,  or  cornice,  is  fixed  to 
the  frame  or  wall  with  glue,  or  with  white 
lead. 

2203.  Roman  Cement.     Calcine  3  parts 
of  any  ordinary  clay,  and  mix  it  with  2  parts 
lime ;  grind  it  to  powder,  and  calcine  again. 
This  makes  a  beautiful  cement,  improperly 
called  Koman,  since  the  preparation  was  en- 
tirely unknown  to  the  Romans. 

2204.  New  Plastic  Material.     A  beau- 
tiful plastic  substance  can  be  prepared   by 
mixing  collodion   with    phosphate  of  lime. 
The  phosphate  should  be  pure,  or  the  color  of 
the  compound  will  be  unsatisfactory.      On 
setting,  the  mass  is  found  to  be  hard  and  sus- 
ceptible of  a  very  fine  polish.    The  material 
can  be  used  extensively,  applied  in  modes  that 
will   suggest  themselves    to   any  intelligent 
artist,  to  high  class  decoration.       .    «<•  ,. 

2205.  Concrete.  A  compact  mass, 
composed  of  pebbles,  lime,  and  sand,  em- 
ployed in  the  foundations  of  buildings.  The 
best  proportions  are  60  parts  of  coarse  pebbles, 
25  of  rough  sand,  and  15  of  lime ;  others  re- 
commend 80  parts  pebbles,  40  parts  river  sand, 
and  only  10  parts  lime.  The  pebbles  should 
not  exceed  about  i  pound  each  in  weight. 
Abb6  Moigno,  in  his  valuable  scientific  journal, 
"  Les  Mondes,"  relates  his  personal  experience 
with  a  concrete  formed  of  fine  wrought  and 
cast  iron  filings  and  Portland  cement.  The 
Abbe  states  that  a  cement  made  thus  is  hard 
enough  to  resist  any  attempts  to  fracture  it. 
As  he  states  that  the  iron  filings  are  to  replace 
the  sand  usually  put  into  the  mixture,  we 
presume  that  the  relative  quantities  are  to  be 
similar. 

2206.  Concrete  Floors  and  "Walks. 
Compost  for  barn  and  kitchen  floors : — After 
the  ground  on  which  the  floor  is  intended  to 
be  made  is  leveled,  let  it  be  covered  to  the 
thickness  of  3  or  4  inches  with  stones,  broken 
small,  and  well  rammed  down;  upon  which 
let  there  be  run,  about  Ik  inches  above  the 
stones,  1  part  by  measure  calcined  ferruginous 
marl,  and  2  parts  coarse  sand  and  fine  gravel, 
mixed  to  a  thin  consistence  with  water.  Be- 
fore this  coating  has  become  thoroughly  set, 
lay  upon  it  a  coat  of  calcined  marl,  mixed 
with  an  equal  part  of  fine  sand,  1  to  li  inches 
thick,  leveled  to  an  even  surface.  The  addi- 
tion of  blood  will  render  this  compost  harder. 
The  calcined  marl  mentioned  above  is  the 


CEMENTS   AND     UNITING    BODIES. 


213 


Portland  cement  of  commerce.  (See  No 
2195.) 

2207.  Concrete  Gravel  "Walk.     Dig 

away  the  earth  to  the  depth  of  about  5  inches 
then  lay  a  bottom  of  pebbles,  ramming  them 
well  down  with  a  paving  rammer.  Sweep 
them  off  as  clean  as  possible  with  a  broom 
and  cover  the  surface  thinly  with  hot  coal  tar 
Now  put  on  a  coat  of  smaller  gravel  (thefirsl 
bed  of  pebbles  should  be  as  large  as  goose, 
eggs),  previously  dipped  in  hot  coal  tar, 
drained,  and  rolled  in  coal  ashes,  with  an 
intermixture  of  fine  gravel,  and  roll  it  down 
as  thoroughly  as  possible.  Let  the  roller  run 
slowly,  and  let  a  boy  follow  it  with  a  hoe  tc 
scrape  off  all  adhering  gravel.  Next  put  on  a 
coat  of  fine  gravel  or  sand,  and  coal  tar,  with 
some  coal  ashes,  to  complete  the  surface,  and 
roll  again  as  thoroughly  as  possible;  the 
more  rolling  the  better.  It  will  take  some 
weeks  to  harden,  but  makes  a  splendid  hard 
surface  which  sheds  water  like  a  roof.  Do 
not  use  too  much  tar.  It  is  only  necessary 
to  use  enough  to  make  the  ingredients  cohere 
under  pressure,  and  a  little  is  better  than  too 
much.  Such  a  surface  will  last  in  a  farmyard 
a  great  while. 

2208.  Cheap  Concrete  Flooring.    Mix 
3  bushels  coal  ashes  from  a  blacksmith's  shop 
with  2  bushels  gas  lime,  and  then  add  suffi- 
cient gas  tar  to  make  a  stiff  mortar.    If  the 
ammoniacal  liquor  has  been  separated  from  the 
tar,  its  place  must  be  supplied  by  adding  wa- 
ter till  the  tar  is  thin  enough  for  use.    For 
stables  and  cattle  sheds,  the  mortar  can  be 
laid  down  with  a  spade,  and  fine  sharp  sand 
or  gravel  sifted  over  it ;  then  roll  well,  and 
you  will  have  a  good  concrete  floor.    It  will 
take  a  few  days  to  get  thoroughly  hard,  even 
in  dry  weather ;  but  it  will  be  a  good  piece  of 
work,  if  carefully  done.     Autumn  is  the  best 
time  for  laying  this  kind  of  pavement. 

2209.  Keene's  Marble  Cement.    This 
is  made  of  baked  gypsum  or  plaster  of  Paris, 
steeped  in  a  saturated  solution  of  alum,  and 
then  recalcined  and  reduced  to  powder.    For 
use,  it    is    mixed    with  "water,   as    ordinary 
plaster  of  Paris.     This  cement  has  been  most 
extensively  applied  as  a  stucco ;  but  the  finer 
qualities  (when  colored  by  the  simple  process 
of  infusing  mineral  colors  in  the  water  with 
which  the  cement  powder  is  finally  mixed  for 
working),  being  susceptible  of  a  high  degree 
of   polish,   produce    beautiful    imitations    of 
mosaic,  and  other  inlaid  marbles,  scagliola, 
<fcc.     The  cement  is  not  adapted  to  hydraulic 
purposes,  nor  for  exposure  to  the  weather,  but 
has  been  used  as  a  stucco  for  internal  decora- 
tions, and  from  its  extreme  hardness  is  very 
durable.      A  pleasing  tint  is  given  to  this 
cement  by  adding  a  little  solution  of  green 
copperas  to  the  alum  liquor. 

2210.  Parker's  Cement.    This  valuable 
cement  is  made  of  the  nodules  of  indurated  and 
slightly  ferruginous  marl,  called  by  mineral- 
ogists septaria,  and  also  of  some  other  species 
of  argillaceous  limestone.    These  are  burned  in 
conical  kilns,  with  pit  coal,  in  a  similar  way 
to  other  limestone,  care  being  taken  to  avoid 
the  use  of  too  much  heat,  as,  if  the  pieces  un- 
dergo the  slightest  degree  of  fusion,  even  on 
the  surface,  they  will  be  unfit  to  form  the 
cement.      After  being  properly  roasted,  the 
calx  is  reduced  to  a  very  fine  powder  by 


grinding,  and  immediately  packed  in  barrels, 
to  keep  it  from  the  air  and  moisture.  It  is 
tempered  with  water  to  a  proper  consistence, 
and  applied  at  once,  as  it  soon  hardens,  and 
will  not  bear  being  again  softened  down  with 
water.  For  foundations  and  cornices  exposed 
to  the  weather,  it  is  usually  mixed  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  clean  angular  sand ;  for  use 
as  a  common  mortar,  with  about  twice  as 
much  sand  ;  for  coating  walls  exposed  to  cold 
and  wet,  the  common  proportions  are  3  of 
sand  to  2  of  cement,  and  for  walls  exposed  to 
extreme  dryness  or  heat,  about  2k  or  3  of  sand 
to  1  of  cement;  for  facing  cistern  work,  water 
frontages,  &c.,  nothing  but  cement  and  water 
should  be  employed.  This  cement,  under  the 
name  of  compo,  or  Eoman  cement,  is  much 
employed  for  facing  houses,  water-cisterns, 
setting  the  foundations  of  large  edifices,  <fcc. 
It  is  perhaps  the  best  of  all  cements  for 
stucco. 

2211.  Pollack's  Cement  for  Iron  and 
Stone.     This  cement  takes  some  little  time 
to  dry,  but  turns  almost  as  hard  as  stone,  and 
is  fire  and  water-proof.    For  mending  cracks 
in  stone  or  cast-iron  ware,  where  iron  filings 
cannot  be  had,  it  is  invaluable.     Take  litharge 
and  red  lead,  equal  parts,  mix  thoroughly  and 
make  into  a  paste  with  concentrated  glycerine 
to  the  consistency  of  soft  putty ;  fill  the  crack 
and  smear  a  thin  layer  on  both  sides  of  the 
casting  so  as  to  completely  cover  the  fracture. 
This  layer  can  be  rubbed  off  if  necessary  when 
nearly  dry  by  an  old  knife  or  chisel.    M. 
Pollack  has  used  it  to  fasten  the  different 
portions  of  a  fly-wheel  with  great  success; 
while,  when  placed  between  stones,  and  once 
hardened,  it  is  easier  to  break  the  stone  than 
the  joint. 

2212.  Cement  from  Furnace  Slag. 
Furnace  slag  can  be  made  to  furnish  an  excel- 
lent cement  by  selecting  such  portions  of  it  as 
are  readily  dissolved  in  dilute   hydrochloric 
acid.     On  subjecting  it  to  the  action  of  the 
acid,  silica  is  thrown  down,  which  is  afterward 
to  be  washed,  dried,  and   pulverized.     One 
part  of  this  is  next  to  be  mixed  with  9  parts 
powdered  slag  and  the  necessary  quantity  of 
slacked  lime.    This  matter  soon  hardens,  and 
rivals  the  best  cement  in  its  durability. 

2213.  Zeiodite.     This  substance  is  made 
by  mixing  20  to  30  parts  roll  sulphur  with  24 
parts  powdered  glue  or  pumice,  which  forms 
a  mass  as  hard  as  stone  that  resists  the  action 
of  water  and  the  strongest  acids.     Prof.  E. 
Boettger  recommends  it,  therefore,  for  making 
water-tight  and  air-tight  cells  for  galvanic 
batteries. 

2214.  Cement  for  Closing  Cracks  in 
Stoves,  etc.     A  useful  cement  for  closing 
up  cracks  in  stove  plates,  stove  doors,  etc.,  is 
prepared  by  mixing    finely-pulverized    iron, 
such  as  can  be  procured  at  the  druggists,  with 
liquid  water-glass,  to  a  thick  paste,  and  then 
coating  the  cracks  with  it.    The  hotter  the 
ire  then  becomes,  the  more  does  the  cement 
melt  and  combine  with  its  metallic  ingredi- 
ents, and  the  more  completely  will  the  crack 
jecome  closed. 

2215.  Cement  for  Fastening  Iron  to 
Stone.     A  cement  for  fastening  iron  to  stone, 
which  becomes  nearly  as  hard  as  the  stone 

tself,  consists  of  6  parts  Portland  cement,  1 
mrt  powdered  lime,  not  slacked,  2  parts  sand, 


314. 


CEMENTS   AND    UNITING    BODIES. 


and  1  part  slacked  lime,  mixed  with  water  to 
the  proper  consistency,  the  stone  and  iron 
both  being  previously  dampened.  In  48  hours 
it  will  have  set  firmly. 

2216.  Strong   Cement  for  Iron.     To 
4  or  5  parts  clay,  thoroughly  dried  and  pulver- 
ized, add  2  parts  iron  filings  free  from  oxide, 
1  part  peroxide  of  manganese,  ^  part  of  sea 
salt,  and  £  part  borax.    Mingle  thoroughly, 
and  render  as  fine  as  possible ;  then  reduce  to 
a  thick  paste  with  the  necessary  quantity  of 
water,  mixing  thoroughly.    It  must  be  used 
immediately.    After  application,  it  should  be 
exposed  to  warmth,  gradually  increasing  al- 
most to  white^  heat.    This  cement  is  very 
hard,  and  presents  complete  resistance  alike 
to  a  red  heat  and  boiling  water. 

2217.  Cement  for  Iron.     An  excellent 
cement  is  made  by  mixing  equal  parts  of 
sifted  peroxide  of  manganese  and  well-pulver- 
ized zinc  white,  adding  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
commercial  soluble  glass  to  form  a  thin  paste. 
This  mixture,  when  used  immediately,  forms 
a  cement  quite  equal  in  hardness  and  resistance 
to  that  given  in  the  last  receipt. 

2218.  Cement   for   Uniting    Stone, 
Derbyshire    Spar,  etc.      Melt  together  4 
ounces  resin,    i,  ounce  wax,   and  about  an 
ounce  finely-sifted    plaster    of    Paris.      The 
articles  to  be  joined  should  be  well  cleaned, 
then  made  hot  enough  to  melt  the  cement,  and 
the  pieces  pressed  together  very  closely,  so  as 
to  leave  as  little  as  possible  of  the  composition 
between  the  joints.     This  is  a  general  rule 
with  all  cements,  as  the  thinner  the  stratum 
of  cement  interposed  the  firmer  it  will  hold. 

2219.  Cheap     Artificial    Building 
Stone.     A  large  number  of  houses  have  been 
constructed  in  Paris,  for  workmen,  of  the  fol- 
lowing materials :  100  parts  plaster  of  Paris, 
10  parts  hydraulic  lime,  5  parts  liquid  glue, 
and  500  parts  cold  water,  are  intimately  mixed 
and  poured  into  moulds  of  any  desired  size 
and  shape ;  and  in  half  an  hour  the  form  can 
be  removed.    The  stones  are  then  exposed  in 
the  open  air  for  2  weeks,  until  they  are  thor- 
oughly dry.    Artificial  stone  thus  prepared, 
has  the  ring  and  hardness  of  the  native  rock ; 
and,  where  the  materials  are  abundant,  is  said 
to  be  25  per  cent,  cheaper  than  quarried  stone. 

2220.  Simple   and   Useful   Cement. 
Alum  and  plaster  of  Paris,  well  mixed  in  wa- 
ter and  used  in  the  liquid  state,  form  a  hard 
composition  and  also  a  useful  cement. 

2221.  Cement  for  Fastening  Instru- 
ments in  Handles.     A  material  for  fasten- 
ing knives  or  forks  into  their  handles,  when 
they  have  become  loosened  by  use,  is  a  much- 
needed  article.     The  best  cement  for  this  pur- 
pose consists  of  1  pound  resin  and  8  ounces 
sulphur,  which  are  to  be  melted  together  and 
either  kept  in  bars  or  reduced  to  powder.    1 
part  of  the  powder  is  to  be  mixed  with  ^  a 
part  of  iron  filings,  fine  sand,  or  brick-dust, 
and  the  cavity  of  the  handle  is  then  to  be  filled 
with  this  mixture.     The  stem  of  the  knife  or 
fork  is  then  to  be  heated  and  inserted  into  the 
cavity ;  and  when  cold  it  will  be  found  firmly 
fixed  in  its  place. 

2222.  Cement   for   Fastening   Iron 
to  Stone.     Glycerine  and  litharge  stirred  to 
a  paste,  hardens  rapidly,  and  makes  a  suitable 
cement  for  iron  upon  iron,  for  two  stone  sur- 
faces,  and  especially  for   fastening  iron   to 


stone.    The  cement  is  insoluble,  and  is  not 
attacked  by  strong  acids. 

2223.  Vegetable  Cement.  A  good 
vegetable  cement  may  be  prepared  by  mixing 
gum-arabic  with  nitrate  of  lime.  The  latter 
is  prepared  by  dissolving  an  excess  of  marble 
in  nitric  acid,  and  filtering.  The  filtered  so- 
lution will  contain  33.3  per  cent,  nitrate  of 
lime,  which  may  be  dried  by  evaporation. 
For  the  cement,  take  2  parts  by  weight  of  the 
nitrate  of  lime,  20  parts  pulverized  gum- 
arabic,  and  25  parts  water.  The  mixture 
can  be  further  diluted  to  adapt  it  to  the  uses 
to  which  it  is  to  be  applied.  In  the  manufac- 
ture of  artificial  stone,  a  cement  of  a  similar 
character  has  been  found  to  serve  a  good  pur- 
pose. Something  of  the  kind  is  used  in  the 
Frear  stone,  but  in  the  Beton-Coignet  no  ad- 
ditional binding  material  is  found  necessary. 
2224.  Cement  for  Leaky  House 
Hoofs.  Take  4  pounds  resin,  1  pint  linseed 
oil,  2  ounces  red  lead,  and  stir  in  pulverized 
sand  until  the  proper  consistency  is  secured, 
and  apply  it  warm.  This  cement 'becomes 
hard  and  yet  possesses  considerable  elasticity, 
and  is  durable  and  waterproof. 

2225.  Engineer's  Cement.  Mix  ground 
white  lead  with  as  much  powdered  red  lead 
as  will  make  it  of  the  consistence  of  putty. 
This  cement  is  employed  by  engineers  and 
others  to  make  metallic  joints.    A  washer  of 
hemp,  yarn,  or  canvas,  smeared  with  the  ce- 
ment, is  placed  in  the  joint,  which  is  then 
screwed  up  tight.    It  dries  as  hard  as  stone. 
This  cement  answers  well  for  joining  broken 
stones,   however   large.      Cisterns    built    of 
square  stones,  put  together,  while  dry,  with 
this  cement,  will  never  leak  or  require  repair. 
It  is  only  necessary  to  use  it  for  an  inch  or 
two  next   the  water;    the  rest  of  the  joint 
may  be  filled  with  good  mortar.     It  is*  better, 
however,  to  use  it  for  the  whole  joint.     (See 
No.  21G9.) 

2226.  Plumbers'   Cement.      Melt   1 
pound  black  resin,  then  stir  in  1  to  2  pounds 
brick-dust.      Sometimes    a   little  tallow    is 
added. 

2227.  Red  Cement.    The  red  cement 
used  for  uniting  glass  to  metals  is  made  by 
melting  5  parts  black  resin  with  1  part  yellow 
wax,  and  then  stirring  in  gradually  1  part  red 
ochre  or  Venetian  red,  in  fine  powder,  and 
previously  well  dried,     This  cement  requires 
to  be  melted  before  use,  and  it  adheres  better 
if  the  objects  to  which   it  is    applied    are 
warmed. 

2228.  Turners'  Cement.     Melt  togeth- 
er bees'  wax,  1  ounce ;    resin,   J  ounce ;  and 
pitch,  i  ounce ;  stir  in  the  mixture  some  very 
fine  brick-dust  to  give  it  a  body.     If  too  soft, 
add   more  resin;    if  too  hard,    more    wax. 
When  nearly  cold,  make  it  up  into  cakes  or 
rolls  for  use.    Used  for  fastening  wood  on  a 
turner's  chuck. 

2229.  Temporary  Cement  for  Opti- 
cians, Jewelers,  &c,     A  temporary  cement 
to  fix  optical  glasses,  stones,  jewelry,  &c.,  on 
stocks  or  handles  for  the  purpose  of  painting, 
repairing,  or  ornamenting,  is  made  by  melting 
together  at  a  good  heat,  2  ounces  resin,  1 
drachm  wax,  and  2  ounces  whitening;  with 
this  applied  to  the  article  when  heated,  a  se- 
cure hold  may  be  obtained,  unfixed  at  plea- 
sure by  heat. 


CEMENTS    AND     UNITING    BODIES. 


215 


2230.  Cement  for   Fixing  Metal  to 
Leather.     "Wash  the  metal  in  hot  gelatine, 
steep  the  leather  in  hot  gall-nut  infusion,  and 
unite  while  hot. 

2231.  Cement  for  Fixing  Metal  to 
Marble,  Stone,  or  Wood.     Mix  together  4 
parts  carpenters'  glue  and  1  part  Yenice  tur- 
pentine. 

2232.  Cement  for  Coating  Acid 
Troughs.  Melt  together  1  part  pitch,  1  part 
resin,  and  1  part  plaster  of  Paris  (perfectly 
dry.) 

2233.  To  Cement  Cloth  to  Polished 
Metal.     Cloth  can  be  cemented  to  polished 
iron  shafts,  hy  first  giving  them  a  coat  of  best 
white  lead  paint ;  this  being  dried  hard,  coat 
with  best  Russian  glue,  dissolved  in  water 
containing  a  little  vinegar  or  acetic  acid. 

2234.  Cement  for  Gas  Retorts.  Anew 
cement,  especially  adapted  to  the  retorts  of 
gas-works,  is  very  warmly  recommended  in  a 
German  gas-light  journal.   It  consists  of  fine- 
ly-powdered barytes  and  a  soluble  water-glass ; 
or  the  barytes  and  a  solution  of  borax.     The 
joints  are  to  be  coated  several  times  with  this 
cement,  by  means  of  a  brush.     The  addition 
of  two-thirds  of  a  part  of  clay  improves  the 
cement,  and  the  retorts  will  then  stand  a  red 
heat  very  well.    Instead  of  the  water-glass, 
a  solution  of  borax  may  be  used,  or  even  fine- 
ly powdered  white  glass. 

2235.  Use  of  Silicate  of  Potassa  in 
Strengthening  Fossil  Skeletons.     A  very 
judicious  application  of  the  silicate  of  potassa 
(liquid   glass)  has  been  lately  made   at  the 
Museum  of  Jfatural  History  of  Paris,  in  re- 
pairing a  great  many  fossil  skeletons  which 
had  been  disjointed  and  broken  by  the  shells 
bursting  in  this  Palace  of  Science.     The  solu- 
tions have  been  first  used  diluted  to  about  30° 
Baurne,  and  afterwards  of  a  higher  degree  of 
concentration.     The  adherence  of  the  broken 
or  separated  pieces  is  brought  together  by  ap- 
plying with  a  brush  some  of  the  solution  of 
the  silicate  of  potassa  on  the  parts  to  be 
joined,  then  they  are  left  to  dry,  and  the  joint 
is  hardly  visible ;  and  the  joined  part  is  far 
stronger  than  the  remainder  of  the  bone.   Very 
delicate  and  porous  anatomical  pieces,  as  skel- 
etons of  birds,  insects,  etc..  can  be  dipped  re- 
peatedly in  more  diluted  solutions^  and  thus 
be  rendered  very  hard  and  tenacious. 

2236.  Transparent  Cement  for  Lenses, 
&c.     It  is  frequently  found  necessary  to  ce- 
ment together  two  surfaces   of  transparent 
glass,  without  destroying    or  injuring  their 
transparency ;  this  is  especially  the  case  in 
compound  lenses.     The  best  cement  for  effect- 
ing the  union  is  Canada  balsam,  which,  if  too 
thick,  should  be  thinned  with  a  little  turpen- 
tine, benzole,  or  ether.     It  is  of  importance 
that  no  air  bubbles  be  present.     In  order  to 
cement  together  the  two  parts  of  an  achro- 
matic lens  (this  consists  of  a  double  convex 
lens  fitting   exactly    into  the    concavity   of 
a   plano-concave    lens),    having    thoroughly 
cleaned  the  surfaces  to  be  brought  in  contact, 
lay  the  glass,  previously  made  warm,  on  a  ta- 
ble suitably  covered  to  prevent  the  under  sur- 
face from  being  scratched.     By  means  of  a 
peg  of  wood  or  otherwise,  convey  a  drop  of 
the  balsam  to  the  centre  of  the  lens,  and  then 
gently  lower  down  upon  it  the  lens  to  be  ce- 
mented to  it,  also  previously  made  slightly 


warm.  Now  apply  a  slight  pressure,  and  the 
dark  disc  in  the  centre,  indicative  of  optical 
contact,  will  rapidly  increase  in  size,  until  at 
last  the  balsam  reaches  the  margin  and  begins 
to  ooze  out  at  the  edges,  if  the  balsam  be 
present  in  excess,  as  it  should  be.  By 
means  of  a  piece  of  soft  string  passed  cross- 
wise over  the  lenses,  tie  the  two  together,  and 
place  them  in  a  stove,  an  oven,  or  before  a 
fire,  for  a  short  time,  until  the  balsam  at  the 
edges  shall  have  become  hard  and  dry.  Let 
the  string  then  be  removed  and  the  lens  freed 
from  all  external  traces  of  balsam  by  means 
of  benzole  or  ether.  The  above  directions, 
modified  to  suit  circumstances,  apply  to  tho 
cementation  of  transparencies  or  opal  pic- 
tures ;  also  to  the  varnishing  of  magic  lan- 
tern slides,  and  the  protection  of  any  transpa- 
rent surfaces  from  the  air. 

2237.  Cement  for  Chemical  Glasses. 
Mix  equal  parts  of  wheat  flour,  finely-pow- 
dered Yenice  glass,  pulverized  chalk,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  brick-dust,  finely  ground; 
these  ingredients,  with  a  little  scraped  lint, 
are  to  be  mixed  and  ground  up  with  the  white 
of  eggs ;  it  must  then  be  spread  upon  pieces 
of  fine  linen  cloth,  and  applied  to  the  crack  of 
the   glasses,   and  allowed  to  get  thoroughly 
dry  before  the  glasses  are  put  to  the  fire. 

2238.  Hermetical  Sealing  for  Bottles. 
Gelatine  mixed  with  glycerine  yields  a  com- 
pound, liquid  when  hot,  but  becoming  solid 
by  cooling,  at  the  same  time  retaining  much 
elasticity.       Bottles    may    be    hermetically 
sealed  by  dipping  their  necks  into  the  liquid' 
mixture,  and  repeating  the  operation  until  the 
cap  attains  any  thickness  required. 

2239.  Cement   to  Seal  Bottles  Con- 
taining Volatile  Liquids.     Chemists  and 
others  know  well  the  difficulty  of  keeping  vol- 
atile liquids.     Bottles  of  ether,  for  example, 
are  shipped  for  India,  and  when  they  arrive 
are  found  to  be  more  than  half  empty.    The 
remedy  with  exporters  is  a  luting  of  melted 
sulphur,  which  is  difficult  to  apply  and  hard  to 
remove.    A  new  cement,  easily  prepared  and 
applied,  and  which  is  said  to  prevent  the  es- 
cape of  the  most  volatile  liquids,  is  composed 
of  very  finely  ground  litharge  and  concen- 
trated glycerine,  and  is  merely  painted  around 
the  cork  or  stopper.     It  quickly  dries  and  be- 
comes  extremely    hard,    but  can  be   easily 
scraped  off  with  a  knife  when  it  is  necessary 
to  open  the  bottle. 

2240.  Cement  for  Sealing  Corks  in 
Bottles.     Take  an  equal  quantity  of  resin 
and  bees'  wax,  melt  them  together,  then  put 
in  an  almost  equal  bulk  of  finely-powdered 
red  chalk,  add  a  small  quantity  of  ueatsfoot 
oil,  let  the  whole  boil  1  minute,  then  take  it 
from  the  fire  and  stir  it  well ;  if  too  thick, 
add  a  little  more  oil. 

2241.  Cement  for  Sealing  the  Corks 
in  Bottles.     Melt  together  i  pound  sealing- 
wax,  the  same  quantity  of  resin,  and  2  ounces 
bees'  wax.     "When  it  froths  stir  it  with  a  tal- 
low caudle.    As  soon  as  it  melts  dip   the 
mouths  of  the  corked  bottles  in  it. 

2242.  Painters'  Putty.     Putty  is  made 
of   common  whitening,   pounded  very  fine, 
and  mixed  with  linseed   oil  till  it  becomes 
about  the  thickness  of  dough. 

2243.  Quick  Hardening  Putty.      A 
putty  of  starch  and  chloride  of  zinc  hardens 


216 


CEMENTS   AND     UNITING    BODIES. 


quickly,  and  lasts  for  months,  as  a  stopper  of 
holes  in  metals. 

2244.  Cement    to    Stop   Flaws    or 
Cracks  in  "Wood  of  any  Color.     Put  any 

quantity  of  fine  sawdust,  of  the  same  wood 
the  work  is  made  with,  into  an  earthen  pan, 
and  pour  boiling  water  on  it,  stir  it  well,  and 
let  it  remain  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  occasion- 
ally stirring  it ;  then  boil  it  for  some  time, 
and  it  will  be  of  the  consistence  of  pulp  or 
paste ;  put  it  into  a  coarse  cloth,  and  squeeze 
all  the  moisture  from  it.  Keep  for  use,  aud, 
when  wanted,  mix  a  sufficient  quantity  of  thin 
glue  to  make  it  into  a  paste ;  rub  it  well  into 
the  cracks,  or  fill  up  the  holes  in  the  work 
with  it.  When  quite  hard  and  dry,  clean  the 
work  off,  and,  if  carefully  done,  the  imperfec- 
tion will  be  scarcely  discernible. 

2245.  Cement  for  Cloth,  Leather,  or 
Belting.      Take  ale,  1  pint ;  best  Eussia  isin- 
glass, 2  ounces;    put  them  into  a  common 
glue  kettle  and  boil  until  the  isinglass  is  dis- 
solved ;  then  add  4  ounces  best  glue,  and  dis- 
solve it  with  the  other;  then  slowly  add  1£ 
ounces  boiled  linseed  oil,  stirring  all  the  time 
while  adding  and  until  well  mixed.    When 
cold  it  will  resemble  India  rubber.     To  use 
this,  dissolve  what  is  needed  in  a  suitable 
quantity  of   ale  to  the  consistence  of  thick 
glue.     It  is  applicable  for  leather,  for  harness, 
bands  for  machinery,   cloth  belts  for  cracker 
machines  for  bakers,  &c.,   &c.    If  for  leather, 
shave  off  as  if  for  sewing,  apply  the  cement 
with  a  brush  while  hot,  laying  a  weight  to 
keep  each  joint  firmly  for  6  to  10  hours,  or 
over  night. 

2246.  Cement  for  Leather  Belting. 
Take  of  common  glue  and  American  isinglass, 
equal  parts ;  place  them,  in  a  glue-pot  and  add 
water  sufficient  to  just  cover  the  whole.     Let 
it  soak  10  hours,  then  bring  the  whole  to  a 
boiling  heat,  and  add  pure  tannin  until  the 
whole  becomes  ropey  or  appears  like  the  white 
of   eggs.     Apply  it  warm.     Buff  the  grain 
off  the  leather  where  it  is  to  be  cemented; 
rub  the  joint  surfaces  solidly  together,  let  it 
dry  a  few  hours,  and  it  is  ready  for  use ;  and,  if 
properly  put  together,  it  will  not  need  rivet- 
ing, as  the  cement  is  nearly  of  the  same -na- 
ture as  the  leather  itself.    We  know  of  no  ce- 
ment better  either  for  emery  wheels  or  emery 
belts  than  the  best  glue.    In  an  experience  of 
fifteen  years  we  never  found  anything  supe- 
rior. 

2247.  Gutta-Percha   Cement.      This 
highly  recommended  cement  is  made  by  melt- 
ing together,  in  an  iron  pan,  2  parts  common 
pitch  and  1  part  gutta-percha,   stirring  them 
well  together  until  thoroughly  incorporated, 
and  then  pouring  the  liquid  into  cold  water. 
When  cold  it  is  black,  solid,  and  elastic ;  but 
it  softens  with  heat,  and  at  100°  Fahr.  is  a 
thin  fluid.    It  may  be  used  as  a  soft  paste,  or 
in  the  liquid  state,  and  answers  an  excellent 
purpose  in  cementing  metal,  glass,  porcelain, 
ivory,  &c.    It  may  be  used  instead  of  putty 
for  glazing  windows. 

2248.  To  Dissolve  India  Rubber  for 
Cement,  &c.     India  rubber  dissolves  readily 
in  rectified  sulphuric  ether,  which  has  been 
washed  with  water  to  remove  alcohol  and 
acidity;    also  in  chloroform.      These    make 
odorless  solutions,  but  are  too  expensive  for 
general  use.     The  gum  dissolves  easily  in 


bisulphuret  of  carbon;  or  a  mixture  of  94 
parts  bisulphuret  of  carbon  and  6  parts  abso- 
lute alcohol;  also  in  caoutchoucine.  (See  No. 
2249.)  These  dissolve  the  gum  rapidly  in  the 
cold,  and  leave  it  unaltered  on  evaporation ; 
they  have  a  disagreeable  odor,  but  they  leave 
the  India  rubber  in  better  condition  than  most 
other  solvents.  Oil  of  turpentine,  rendered 
pyrogenous  by  absorbing  it  with  bricks  of 
porous  ware,  and  distilling  it  without  water, 
and  treating  the  product  in  the  same  way,  is 
also  used  for  this  purpose.  It  is  stated  that 
the  solution  on  evaporation  does  not  leave  the 
caoutchouc  in  a  sticky  state.  Another  method 
is  to  agitate  oil  of  turpentine  repeatedly  with 
a  mixture  of  equal  weights  of  .sulphuric  acid 
and  water;  and  afterwards  expose  it  to  the 
sun  for  some  time.  Benzole,  rectified  mineral 
or  coal  tar  naphtha,  and  oil  of  turpentine  re- 
duce the  gum  slowly  by  long  digestion  and 
trituration,  with  heat,  forming  a  glutinous 
jelly  which  dries  slowly,  and  leaves  the  gum, 
when  dry,  very  much  reduced  in  hardness  and 
elasticity.  The  fats  and  fixed  oils  combine 
readily  with  India  rubber  by  boiling,  forming 
a  permanently  glutinous  paste.  (See  No. 
2947.)  India  rubber  is  rendered  more  readily 
soluble  by  first  digesting  it  with  a  solution  of 
carbonate  of  soda,  or  water  of  ammonia. 

2249.  Caoutchoucine.  Pure  India  rub- 
ber, cut  into  small  lumps,  is  thrown  into  a 
cast-iron  still,  connected  with  a  well-cooled 
worm  tub,  and  heat  is  applied  until  the  ther- 
mometer ranges  about  600°  Fahr.,  when  noth- 
ing is  left  in  the  still  but  dirt  and  charcoal. 
The  dark  colored  fetid  oil  which  has  distilled 
over  is  next  rectified  with  one  third  its  weight 
of  water,  once  or  oftener,  until  it  is  colorless; 
it  is  then  highly  volatile  and  of  .680  specific 
gravity.  The  product  is  then  shaken  up  with 
nitro-muriatic  acid,  or  chlorine,  in  the  propor- 
tion of  J  pint  of  acid  to  each  gallon  of  the 
liquid.  This  is  the  lightest  fluid  known,  and 
yet  its  vapor  is  the  heaviest  of  gases.  Mixed 
with  alcohol,  it  dissolves  all  the  resins,  espe- 
cially copal  and  India  rubber,  at  the  common 
temperature  of  the  air ;  and  it  speedily  evapo- 
rates, leaving  them  in  a  solid  state.  It  mixes* 
with  the  oils  in  all  proportions ;  and  has  been 
used  for  making  Tarnishes,  and  for  liquefying 
oil  paints,  instead  of  turpentine.  It  is  very 
volatile,  arid  must  be  kept  in  close  vessels. 

2250.  Cement  for  Uniting  Sheet  Gutta- 
Percha  to  Silk,  &c.  Gutta-percha,  40  pounds; 
caoutchouc,  3  pounds ;  shellac,  3  pounds ; 
Canada  balsam,  or  Venice  turpentine,  14 
pounds;  liquid  storax,  35  pounds;  gum  mastic, 
4  pounds;  oxide  of  lead,  1  pound.  Mix  as  di- 
rected in  the  next  receipt. 

2251.  Cement  for  Uniting  Sheet 
Gutta-Percha  to  Leather.  For  uniting 
sheet  gutta-percha  to  leather,  as  soles  of  shoes, 
etc.  Gutta-percha,  50  pounds;  Venice  turpen- 
tine, 40  pounds ;  shellac,  4  pounds ;  caout- 
chouc, 1  pound ;  liquid  storax,  5  pounds.  In 
making  the  cement,  ,the  Venice  turpentine 
should  be  first  heated  ;  then  the  gutta-percha 
and  the  shellac  should  be  added ;  the  order  in 
which  the  other  materials  are  added  is  not 
important.  Care  should  be  taken  to  incorpor- 
ate them  thoroughly,  and  the  heat  should  be 
regulated,  so  as  not  to  burn  the  mixture. 

2252.  Transparent  Cement.  Dissolve 
75  parts  India  rubber  in  60  parts  of  chloro- 


LUTE. 


217 


form,  and  add  to  the  solution  15  parts  of 
gum  mastich. 

2253.  How   to   Fasten   Rubber  to 
Wood  and  Metal.     As  rubber  plates  and 
rings  are  now  a-days  almost  exclusively  used 
for  making  connections  between  steam  and 
other  pipes  and  apparatus,  much  annoyance 
is  often  experienced  by  the  impossibility  or 
imperfectness  of  an  air-tight  connection.    This 
is  obviated  entirely  by  employing  a  cement 
which  fastens  equally  well  to  the  rubber  and 
to  the  metal  or  wood.     Such  cement  is  pre- 
pared by  a  solution  of  shellac  in  ammonia. 
This  is  best  made  by  soaking  pulverized  gum- 
shellac  in  ten  times  its  weight  of  strong  am- 
monia, when  a  slimy  mass  is  obtained,  which, 
in  three  to  four  weeks,  will  become  liquid 
without  the  use  of  hot  water.     This  softens 
the  rubber,  and  becomes,  after  volatilization 
of  the  ammonia,  hard  and  impermeable  to 
gases  and  fluids. 

2254.  Marine  Cement  for  Uniting 
Leather  to  Gutta-Percha.     This  will  unite 
leather  to  gutta-percha,  and  is  impervious  to 
damp.     It  is  made  by  dissolving  by  the  aid  of 
heat,  1  part  India  rubber  in  naphtha,  and, 
when  melted,   adding   2  parts  shellac,   and 
melting  until  mixed.    Pour  it  while  hot  on 
metal  plates  to  cool.     When  required  for  use, 
melt,  and  apply  with  a  brush.    This  cement 
does  not  adhere  very  well  to  vulcanised  rub- 
ber, and  the  joint  is  always  weak. 

2255.  Cement  to  Unite  India  Rubber. 
Take  16  parts  gutta-percha,  4  parts  India  rub- 
ber, 2  parts  common  caulkers'  pitch,  1  part 
linseed  oil.     The  ingredients  are  melted  to- 
gether, and  used  hot.    It  will  unite  leather 
or  rubber  that  has  not  been  vulcanized. 

2256.  Gutta-Percha  Cement  for  Fas- 
tening' Leather.      Dissolve  a  quantity  of 
gutta-percha  in  chloroform  in    quantity    to 
make    a   fluid     of    honey-like    consistence. 
"When  spread  it  will  dry  in  a  few  moments. 
Heat  the  surfaces  at  a  fire  or  gas  flame  until 
softened,   and  apply  them  together.     Small 

Eatches  of  leather  can  be  thus  cemented  on 
oots,  etc.,  so  as  almost  to  defy  detection, 
and  some  shoemakers  employ  it  with  great 
success  for  this  purpose.  It  is  waterproof, 
and  will  answer  almost  anywhere  unless  ex- 
posed to  heat,  which  softens  it. 

2257.  Caoutchouc  Cement  is  made  as 
follows : — Gutta-percha,  3  parts ;  virgin  India 
rubber  (caoutchouc),  1  part  (both  cut  small); 
pyrogenous  oil  of  turpentine,  or  bisulphuret 
of  carbon,  8  parts ;  mix  in  a  close  vessel,  and 
dissolve  by  the  heat  of  hot  water.      This 
cement  should  be  gently  heated  before  being 
used. 

2258.  Cement  to  Mend  India  Rubber 
Shoes.     A  solution  of  caoutchouc,  or  virgin 
India  rubber,  for  repairing  India  rubber  shoes, 
is  prepared  in  the  following  manner :  Cut  2 
pounds   caoutchouc   into   thin,  small  slices; 
put  them  in  a  vessel  of  tinned  sheet-iron  and 
pour  over  12  to  14  pounds  of  sulphide  of  car- 
bon.    For  the  promotion   of  solution,  place 
the  vessel  in  another  containing  water  pre- 
viously heated  up  to  about  86°  Fahr.    The 
solution  will  take  place  promptly,  but  the 
fluid  will  thicken  very  soon,  and  thus  render 
the  application  difficult,  if  not  impossible. 
In  order  to  prevent  this  thickening,  a  solution 
of  caoutchouc  and  resin  in  spirits  of  turpen- 


tine must  be  added  to  the  solution  of  caout- 
chouc in  sulphide  of  carbon,  and  in  such 
quantity  that  the  mixture  obtains  the  consist- 
ency of  a  thin  paste.  The  solution  of  caout- 
chouc and  resin  in  spirit  of  turpentine  should 
be  prepared  as  follows :  Cut  1  pound  of  caout- 
chouc into  thin,  small  slices;  heat  in  a  suita- 
ble vessel  over  a  moderate  coal  fire,  until  the 
caoutchouc  becomes  fluid ;  then  add  £  pound 
powdered  resin,  and  melt  both  materials  at  a 
moderate  heat.  "When  these  materials  are 
perfectly  fluid,  then  gradually  add  3  or  4 
pounds  spirit  of  turpentine  in  small  portions, 
and  stir  well.  By  the  addition  of  the  last 
solution,  the  rapid  thickening  and  hardening 
of  the  compound  will  be  prevented,  and  a 
mixture  obtained  fully  answering  the  purpose 
of  glueing  together  rubber  surfaces,  etc. 

2259.  To  Fasten  Chamois  and  Other 
Leather  to  Iron  and  Steel.    Dr.  Carl  W. 
Heinischen,  of  Dresden,  gives  the  following 
receipt  for  the  above  purpose :    Spread  over 
the  metal  a  thin,  hot  solution  of  good  glue ; 
soak  the  leather  with  a  warm  solution  of 
gall-nuts  before  placing  on  the  metal,  and 
leave  to  dry  under  an  even  pressure.    If  fas- 
tened in  this  manner  it  is  impossible  to  sepa- 
rate the  leather  from  the  metal  without  tear- 
ing it. 

2260.  Cement  for  Petroleum  Lamps. 
A  cement  particularly  adapted  for  attaching 
the  brass  work  to  petroleum  lamps,  is  made 
by  Puscher,  by  boiling  3  parts  resin  with  1  of 
caustic  soda  and  5  of  water.    The  composition 
is  then  mixed  with  half  its  weight  of  plaster 
of  Paris,  and  sets  firmly  in  half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.     It  is  said  to  be  of  great 
adhesive  power,  not  permeable  to  petroleum, 
a  low  conductor  of  heat,  and  but  superficially 
attacked  by  hot  water.     Zinc  white,  white 
lead,  or  precipitated  chalk  may  be  substituted 
for  plaster,  but  hardens  more  slowly. 

2261.  Cement  for  Attaching  Metal 
Letters  to  Plate  Glass.     Copal  varnish,  16 
parts;   drying  oil,  6  parts;   turpentine,   and 
oil  of  turpentine,  of  each  3  parts ;  liquefied 
glue  (made  with  the  least  possible  quantity 
of  water),  5  parts.    Melt  together  in  a  water- 
bath,  and  add  fresh  slacked  lime  (perfectly 
dry  and  in  very  fine  powder),  10  parts. 

2262.  Cement  for  Metal  and  Glass. 
Mix  2  ounces  of  a  thick  solution  of  glue  with 
1  ounce  linseed  oil  varnish,  or  £  ounce  Venice 
turpentine ;  boil  them  together,  stirring  them 
until  they  mix    as  thoroughly  as  possible. 
The  pieces  cemented  should  be  tied  together 
for  2  or  3  days.    This  cement  will  firmly  at- 
tach any  metallic  substance  to  glass  or  porce- 
lain.    (See  last  receipt.) 


["  TltS.  A  composition  employed  to  se- 
I  *  cure  the  joints  of  chemical  vessels,  or 
as  a  covering  to  protect  them  from  the  vio- 
lence of  the  fire.  For  the  joints  of  vessels, 
as  stills,  <fec.,  not  exposed  to  a  heat  much 
higher  than  212°  Fahr.,  linseed  meal,  either 
alone  or  mixed  with  an  equal  weight  of  whit- 
ing, and  made  into  a  stiff  paste  with  water, 
may  be  employed.  Ground  almond  cake, 
from  which  the  oil  has  been  pressed,  may  also 
be  used  for  the  same  purpose.  For  the  joints 
of  small  vessels,  as  tubes,  &c.,  especially  of 


218 


FLOUR    PASTE. 


glass  or  earthenware,  small  rings  of  India  |  few  grains  of  corrosive  sublimate,  or  a  little 
rubber  slipped  over  and  tied  above  and  below  !  carbolic  acid,  or  bisulphite  of  lime  (especially 
the  joint,  are  very  convenient  substitutes  for  the  first  and  second),  will  prevent  injects 
lutes,  and  have  the  advantage  of  lasting  a  f- 
long  time,  and  bearing  uninjured  the  heat  at 
which  oil  of  vitriol  boils. 

2264.  Lute  for  Stills.  A  very  useful 
lute  is  formed  by  beating  the  white  of  an  egg 
thoroughly  with  an  equal  quantity  of  water, 
and  mixing  it  with  some  slacked  lime  in  the 
state  of  fine  powder,  so  as  to  form  a  thin  paste. 
This  must  be  spread  immediately  on  strips  of 
muslin,  and  applied  to  the  cracks  or  joints 
intended  to  be  luted.  It  soon  hardens,  ad- 
heres strongly,  and  will  bear  a  heat  approach- 
ing to  redness  without  injury.  A  leak  in  this 
lute  is  readily  stopped  by  the  application  of  a 
fresh  portion.  Solution  of  glue,  or  any  liquid 
albuminous  matter,  may  be  used  in  place  of 


the  white  of  eggs. 
2265.     Lemery's 


Lute   for   Stills   or 


Retorts.  Lemery  used  the  following  lute 
for  stopping  retorts,  etc. :  Pine  flour  and  fine 
lime,  of  each  1  ounce;  potter's  earth,  i  ounce; 
make  a  moist  paste  of  these  with  white  of 
egg,  well  beaten  up  with  a  little  water ;  this 
will  be  found  to  stop  exceedingly  close. 

2266.  Boyle's  Lute  for  Retorts,  &c. 
Boyle  recommends,  on  experience,  the  follow- 
ing for  the  same  purpose:  Some  good  fine 
quicklime  and  scrapings  of  cheese,  pounded 
in  a  mortar,  with  as  much  water  as  will  bring 
the  mixture  to  soft  paste ;  then  spread  on  a 
piece  of  linen  rag,  and  apply  it  as  occasion 


Useful    Lute.     A  useful  lute  is 


requires. 
2267. 


made  by  spreading  a  solution  of  glue  on  strips 
of  cloth,  and  coating  them,  after  they  are  ap- 
plied, with  drying  oil. 

2268.  Lute   for   Joining   Crucibles. 
For   joining    crucibles  to  be   exposed  to    a 
strong  heat,  a  mixture  of  fine  clay  and  ground 
bricks,  mixed  up  with  water,  or  preferably 
with  a  solution  of  borax,  answers  well  for 
most  purposes. 

2269.  Fire  Lute.     As  a  coating  for  ves- 
sels, to  preserve  them  from  injury  from  ex- 
posure to  the  fire,  nothing  is  better  than  a 
mixture  of  ordinary  pipe-clay  and  horse  dung, 
made  into  a  paste  with  water.    This  compo- 
sition is  used  by  the  pipe-makers,  and  will 
stand  unharmed  the   extreme  heat  of  their 
kiln  for  24  hours.    It  is  applied  by  spreading 
it  on  paper. 

2270.  Lute  to  Protect  Glass  Vessels. 
The  following  composition  will  enable  glass 
vessels  to  sustain  an  incredible  degree  of  heat : 
Take  fragments  of  porcelain,  pulverize,  and 
sift  them  well,  and  add  an  equal  quantity  of 
fine  clay,  previously  softened  with  as  much  of 
a  saturated  solution  of  muriate  of  soda  as  is 
requisite  to  give  the  whole  a  proper  consist- 
ence.    Apply  a  thin  and  uniform  coat  of  this 
composition  to  the  glass  vessels,  and  allow  it 
to  dry  slowly  before  they  are  put  into  the  fire. 


F 


Paste.  The  best  paste  for 
general  purposes  is  simply  wheat  flour 
beaten  into  cold  water  to  perfect  smoothness, 
and  the  whole  just  brought  to  a  boil,  while 
being  constantly  stirred  to  prevent  burning. 
The  addition  of  a  few  drops  of  creosote,  or  a 


from  attacking  it,  and  preserve  it  (in  covered 
vessels)  for  years.  Should  it  get  too  hard  it 
may  be  softened  with  water. 

2272.  Paper  Hangers'  Paste.  Beat 
up  4  pounds  of  good  white  wheat  flour  in  cold 
water — enough  to  form  a  stiff  batter  (sifting 
the  flour  first) ;  beat  it  well,  to  take  out  all 
lumps ;  then  add  enough  cold  water  to  make 
it  the  consistence  of  pudding  batter;  add 
about  2  ounces  of  well  pounded  alum.  Be 
sure  and  have  plenty  of  boiling  water  ready  ; 
take  it  quite  boiling  from  the  fire,  and  pour 
gently  and  quickly  over  the  batter,  stirring 
rapidly  at  the  same  time ;  and  when  it  is  ob- 
served to  swell  and  lose  the  white  color  of 
the  flour,  it  is  cooked  and  ready.  This  will 
make  about  £  of  a  pail  of  solid  paste ;  do  not 
use  it  while  hot ;  allow  it  to  cool  and  it  will 
go  further;  about  a  pint  of  cold  water  may  be 
put  over  the  top  of  it,  to  prevent  it  skinning; 
before  using,  thin  this  with  cold  water  to 
spread  easily  and  quickly  under  the  brush. 
This  paste  will  keep  a  long  while  without  fer- 
menting, when  it  is  useless ;  mould  on  the  top 
does  not  hurt  it ;  remove  it,  the  remainder  is 
good.  (See  No.  2273.) 

2273.  Strongly  Adhering  Paste. 
Where  great  adhesiveness  is  required,  such  as 
papering  over  varnished  paper  or  painted 
walls,  it  will  be  necessary  to  add  \  an  ounce 
of  finely  powdered  resin  to  each  •£  gallon  of 
the  batter  in  the  last  receipt.  As  the  resin 
does  not  dissolve  so  readily,  set  the  pan  con- 
taining the  ingredients  over  a  moderate  fire, 
constantly  stirring  until  it  boils  and  thickens, 
and  a  short  time  after  put  out  to  cool.  Re- 
duce the  paste  with  thin  gum-arabic  water. 
In  hanging  "flock"  papers  with  crimson  in 
them,  omit  the  alum,  as  it  will  injure  the 
color. 

2274.  To   Make   a   Fine   Paste.     A 
solution  of  2i  ounces  gum-arabic  in  2  quarts 
warm  water,   is  thickened  to  a  paste   with 
wheat  flour;    to   this  is  added  a  solution  of 
alum  and  sugar  of  lead,  H  ounces  each  in  wa- 
ter ;  the  mixture  is  heated  and  stirred  about 
to    boil,   and    is    then    cooled.      It  may  be 
thinned,  if  necessary,  with  a  gum  solution. 

2275.  To   Make   Paste   for   Laying 
Cloth,  or  Leather  on  Table  Tops.    To  1 
pint  best  wheaten  flour  add  resin,  very  finely 
powdered,  about  2  large  spoonfuls ;  of  alum, 
1  spoonful,  in  powder ;  mix  them  all  well  to- 
gether, put  them  into  a  pan,  and  add  by  de- 
grees soft  or  rain  water,  carefully  stirring  it 
till  it  is  of  the  consistence  of  thinuish  cream  ; 
put  it  into  a  saucepan  over  a  clear  fire,  keep- 
ing it  constantly  stirred,  that  it  may  not  get 
lumpy.     "When  it  is  of  a  stiff"  consistence,  so 
that  the  spoon  will  stand  upright  in  it,  it  is 
done  enough.      Be  careful  to  stir  it  well  from 
the  bottom,  for  it  will  bum  if  not  well  at- 
tended to.     Empty  it  out  into  a  pan  and 
cover  it  over  till  cold,  to  prevent  a  skin  form- 
ing on  the  top,  which  would  make  it  lumpy. 
This  paste  is  very  superior  for  the  purpose, 
and  adhesive. 

2276.  To   Paste   Leather   or   Cloth 
on  Table  Tops.     To  use  paste  in  the  last 
receipt,  for  cloth  or  baize,  spread  the  paste 
evenly  and  smoothly  on  the  top  of  the  table, 


GLUE. 


219 


and  lay  your  cloth  on  it,  pressing  and  smooth- 
ing it  with  a  flat  piece  of  wood ;  let  it  remain 
till  dry ;  then  trim  the  edges  close  to  the 
cross-banding.  If  you  cut  it  close  at  first, 
it  will,  in  drying,  shrink  and  look  bad  where 
it  meets  the  banding  all  around.  If"  used  for 
leather,  the  leather  must  be  first  previously 
dampened,  and  then  the  paste  spread  over  it ; 
next  lay  it  on  the  table,  and  nib  it  smooth 
and  level  with  a  linen  cloth,  and  cut  the  edges 
close  to  the  banding  with  a  short  knife. 
Some  lay  their  table-covers  with  glue  instead 
of  paste,  and  for  cloth  perhaps  it  is  the  best 
method ;  but  for  leather  it  is  not  proper,  as 
glue  is  apt  to  run  through.  In  using  it  for 
cloth,  great  care  must  be  taken  that  the  glue  is 
not  too  thin,  and  that  the  cloth  be  well  rubbed 
down  with  a  thick  piece  of  wood  made  hot  at 
the  fire,  for  the  glue  soon  chills.  You  may, 
by  this  method,  cut  off  the  edges  close  to  the 
border  at  once. 


Gllie.  The  hotter  the  glue,  the  more 
force  it  will  exert  in  keeping  the  two 
parts  glued  together;  therefore,  in  all  large 
and  long  joints  the  glue  should  be  applied 
immediately  after  boiling.  Glue  loses  much 
of  its  strength  by  frequent  re-melting ;  that 
glue,  therefore,  which  is  newly  made,  is  much 
preferable  to  that  which  has  been  re-boiled. 
In  melting  ordinary  glue  in  the  double  vessel 
containing  water,  it  is  an  excellent  method  to 
add  salt  to  the  water  in  the  outer  vessel.  It 
will  not  boil  then,  until  heated  considerably 
above  the  ordinary  boiling  point ;  the  conse- 
quence is,  the  heat  is  retained,  instead  of 
passing  off  by  evaporation,  and  when  the  wa- 
ter boils,  the  glue  will  be  found  to  be  thor- 
ougly  and  evenly  melted. 

2278.  To  Prevent  Glue  from  Crack- 
ing.    Glue  is  often  found  to  crack  in  very  dry 
localities,  particularly  when  the  objects  glued 
together  are  not  in  close  contact,  but  have  a 
thin  layer  of  glue  between  them ;  in  which 
case  they   sometimes  fall  apart.     Yery  thin 
layers  of  glue  are  not  only  exceedingly  hard, 
but  also  more  or  less  brittle  when  extremely 
dry ;  and,  therefore,,  to  prevent  this  dry  and 
consequent  brittle  condition,  the  addition  of  a 
very  small  quantity  of  glycerine  will  accom- 
plish the  desired  end.     The  quantity  of  glycer- 
ine must  be  modified  according  to  circum- 
stances. 

2279.  To  Make  a  Very  Strong  Glue. 
An  ounce  of  the  best  isinglass  may  be  dis- 
solved, by  the  application  of  a  moderate  heat, 
in  a  pint  of  water.    Take  this  solution  and 
strain  it  through  a  piece  of  cloth,  and  add  to 
it  a  proportionate  quantity  of  the  best  glue, 
which  has  been  previously  soaked  in  water 
for  about  24  hours,   and   a  gill  of  vinegar. 
After  the  whole  of  the  materials  have  been 
brought  into  a  solution,  let  it  once  boil   up, 
and  strain   off  the  impurities.     This  glue  is 
well  adapted  for  any  work  which  requires  par- 
ticular strength,  and  where  the  joints  them- 
selves do  not  contribute  towards  the  combi- 
nation of  the   work ;  or  in  small  fillets  and 
mouldings,  and  carved  patterns  that  are  to  be 
held  on  the  surface  by  the  glue. 

2280.  A  Strong  Glue  that  will  Re- 
sist Moisture.     Dissolve  gum-saudarac  and 


mastich,  of.  each  i  ounce,  in  J  pint  spirits  of 
wine,  to  which  add  i  ounce  clear  turpentine ; 
now  take  strong  glue,  or  that  in  which  isinglass 
has  been  dissolved;  then,  putting  the  gums 
into  a  double  glue-pot,  add  by  degrees  the  glue, 
constantly  stirring  it  over  the  fire  till  the 
whole  is  well  incorporated ;  strain  it  through  a 
cloth,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  It^  may  now 
be  returned  to  the  glue-pot,  and  |  ounce  very 
finely-powdered  glass  added ;  use  it  quite  hot. 

2281.  To  Make  Tungstic  Glue.  Tungs- 
tic  glue  is  prepared  by  mixing  a  thick  solution 
of  glue  with  tungstate  of  soda,  and  hydro- 
chloric acid,  by  means  of  which  a  compound 
of  tungstic   acid   and    glue    is    precipitated, 
which,  at  a  temperature  of  86°  to  104°  Pahr., 
is  sufficiently  elastic  to  admit  of  being  drawn 
out  into  very  •  thin  sheets.     On  cooling,  this 
mass  becomes  solid  and  brittle,  and  on  being 
heated  is  again  soft  and  plastic.     This  new 
compound,  it  is  said,  can  be  used  for  all  the 
purposes  to  which  hard  rubber  is  adapted. 

2282.  To  Keep  Glue  from  Souring. 
If  a  little   muriatic   acid  be  put  into  glue 
when  it  is  dissolved,  ready  for  use,  it  will  re- 
tain the  glue  in  the  same  condition  for  a  long 
time.     It  will  neither  dry  up  nor  ferment. 
Liquid  glue  is  made  in  this  way,  and  sold  in 
bottles.     The  use  of  a  small  portion  of  sugar 
of  lead  will  also  prevent  fermentation. 

2283.  To  Prepare  Glue  for  Ready  TJse. 
To  any  quantity  of  glue  use  common  whiskey 
instead  of  water.     Put  both  together  in  a  bot- 
tle, cork  it  tight,  and  set  it  for  3  or  4  days, 
when  it  will  be  fit  for  use  without  the  applica- 
tion of  heat.     Glue  thus  prepared  will  keep 
for  years,  and  is  at  all  times  fit  for  use,  except 
in  very  cold  weather,  when  it  should  be  set  in 
warm  water  before  using.    To  obviate  the  dif- 
ficulty of  the  stopper  getting  tight  by  the  glue 
drying  in  the  mouth  of  the  vessel,  use  a  tin 
vessel  with  the  cover  fitting  tight  on  the  out- 
side, to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  spirit  by 
evaporation.     A  strong  solution  of  isinglass 
made  in  the  same  manner  is  an  excellent  ce- 
ment for  leather. 

2284.  Liquid  Glue.      The  preparation 
of  liquid  glue  is  based  upon  the  property  of 
the  concentrated  acid  of  vinegar  and  diluted 
nitric  acid  to   dissolve   the  gelatine  without 
destroying  its  cohesive  qualities.     Dumouiin 
has  given  the  following  receipt : 

2285.  Dumoulin's  Liquid  and  Unal- 
terable Glue.     Take  a  wide-mouthed  bottle, 
and  dissolve  in  it  8  ounces  best  glue  in  k  pint 
water,  by  setting  it  in  a  vessel  of  water,  and 
heating  until  dissolved.     Then  add  slowly  2£ 
ounces  strong  aqua  fortis  (nitric  acid)    36° 
Baume,  stirring  all  the  while.     Effervescence 
takes  place  under  generation  of  nitrous  gas. 
"When  all  the  acid  has  been  added,  the  liquid 
is  allowed  to  cool.     Keep  it  well  corked,  and 
it  will  be  ready  for  use  at  any  moment.     This 
preparation  does  not  gelatinize,  nor  undergo 
putrefaction  or  fermentation.    It  is  applicable 
for  many  domestic  uses,   such   as  mending 
china,  repairing  cabinet  work,  <fcc. 

2286.  Russian  Liquid  Glue.     This  is 
prepared  by  softening  100  parts  best  Kussian 
glue  in  100  parts  warm  water,  and  then  add- 
ing slowly  from  5&  to  6  parts  aquafortis,  and 
finally  6  parts  powdered    sulphate   of  lead. 
The  latter  is  used  in  order  to  impart  to  it  a 
white  color. 


220 


GLUE. 


2287.  Pale  Liquid  Glue.     Dissolve  in  a 
glass  vessel  100  parts  pale  "steam   glue"  in 
double  its  weight  of  water,  and  add  12  parts 
aqua  fortis  as  directed  in  Dumoulin's  receipt. 
(See  No.  2285.) 

2288.  Dark   Liquid   Glue.      Put    100 
parts  dark  "  steam  glue  "  and  140  parts  water 
in  a  wide-mouthed  glass  bottle,  and  dissolve 
the  glue  in  the  water,  then  add  slowly  16  parts 
aqua  fortis,  stirring  all  the  while.     "When  all 
the  acid  is  added,  the  liquid  is  allowed  to  cool. 
Cork  well.    This  liquid  glue  exhibits  a  great- 
er cohesive  force  than  that  prepared  after  Du- 
moulin's receipt.      (See  No.  2285.)    However, 
still  better  kinds  of  liquid  glue  or  mucilage 
are  obtained  by  dissolving  gelatine  or  dextrine 
in  acetic  acid  and  alcohol. 

2289.  Good  Liquid  Glue.    Fill  a  glass 
jar  with  broken-up  glue  of  best  quality,  then 
fill  it  with  acetic  acid.    Keep  it  in  hot  water 
for  a  few  hours,  until  the  glue  is  all  melted, 
and  you  will  have  an  excellent  glue  always 
ready. 

2290.  Glue  which  Stands  Moisture 
Without  Softening.     Dissolve,  in  about  8 
fluid  ounces  of  strong  methylated  spirit,  %  an 
ounce  each  of  sandaracand  mastich;  next,  add 
i  an  ounce  of  turpentine.     This  solution  is 
then  added  to  a  hot,  thick  solution  of  glue  to 
which  isinglass  has  been  added,  and  is  next 
filtered,  while  hot,  through  cloth  or  a  good 
sieve.     (See  No.  2280.) 

2291.  Marine  or  Waterproof  Glue. 
Take  of  gum    shellac  3   parts,  caoutchouc 
(India-rubber),  1  part,  by  weight.     Dissolve 
the  caoutchouc  and  shellac  in  separate  vessels, 
in  ether  free  from  alcohol  (see  No.  2248),  ap- 
plying a  gentle  heat.     When  thoroughly  dis- 
solved, mix  the  two  solutions,  and  keep  in  a 
bottle  tightly  stoppered.    This  glue  resists  the 
action  ot  water,  both  hot  and  cold,  and  most 
of  the  acids  and  alkalies.     Pieces  of  wood, 
leather  or  other  substances,  joined  together 
by  it,  will  part  at  any  other  point  than  at  the 
joint  thus  made.     If  the  glue  be  thinned  by 
the  admixture  of  ether,  and  applied  as  a  var- 
nish to  leather,  along  the  seams  where  it  is 
sewed  together,  it  renders  the  joint  or  seam 
water-tight,  and  almost  impossible  to  separate. 

2292.  Isinglass  Glue.     Dissolve  isin- 
glass in  water  and  strain  through  coarse  linen, 
and  then  add  a  little  spirits  of  wine.     Evapo- 
rate it  to  such  a  consistency  that  when  cold  it 
will  be  dry  and  hard.     This  will  hold  stronger 
than  common  glue,  and  is  much  preferred. 

2293.  India-Rubber  Glue  for  Photo- 
graphers and  Bookbinders.     A.  most  val- 
uable glue  for  photographers,  and  extensively 
used  by  first-class  bookbinders,  is  made  from 
bottle  India  rubber.     This  must  be  dissolved 
in  highly  rectified  spirits  of  turpentine ;  the 
highly  rectified  spirit  extracts  every  particle  of 
grease,  which  is  of  the  greatest  consequence. 

2294.  Braconnot's  Glue  of  Caseine. 
Dissolve  caseine  in  a  strong  solution  of  bicar- 
bonate of  soda. 

2295.  Wagner's  Glue  of  Caseine. 
Dissolve  caseine  in  a  cold  saturated  solution 
of  borax.  Superior  to  gum,  and  may  take 
the  place  of  glue  in  many  cases.  May  be 
used  for  the  backs  of  adhesive  tickets. 

2296.  To  Glue  a  Joint.  In  general, 
nothing  more  is  necessary  to  glue  a  joint,  after 
the  joint  is  made  perfectly  straight,  than  to 


glue  both  edges  while  the  glue  is  quite  hot, 
and  rub  them  lengthwise  until  it  has  nearly 
set.  When  the  wood  is  spongy,  or  sucks  up 
the  glue,  another  method  must  be  adopted — 
one  which  strengthens  the  joint,  while  it  does 
away  with  the  necessity  of  using  the  glue  too 
thick,  which  should  always  be  avoided;  for 
the  less  glue  there  is  in  contact  with  the  joints, 
provided  they  touch,  the  better;  and  when 
the  glue  is  thick,  it  chills  quickly,  and  cannot 
be  well  rubbed  out  from  between  the  joints. 
The  method  to  which  we  refer  is,  to  rub  the 
joints  on  the  edge  with  a  piece  of  soft  chalk, 
and,  wiping  it  so  as  to  take  off  any  lumps, 
glue  it  in  the  usual  manner ;  and  it  will  be 
found,  when  the  wood  is  porous,  to  hold  much 
faster  than  if  used  without  chalking. 

2297.  To  Glue  on  Ivory  Veneers.    To 
glue  on  ivory  veneers,  take  2  parts  pulverized 
gum-arabic  and  1  part  calomel,  and  add  wa- 
ter sufficient  to  make  a  paste. 

2298.  Excellent  Liquid  Glue.     Take 
of  best  white  glue,   16  ounces ;   white  lead, 
dry,  4  ounces ;  rain  water,  2  pints ;  alcohol,  4 
ounces.     With  constant  stirring  dissolve  the 
glue  and  lead  in  the  water  by  means  of  a  wa- 
ter-bath.    Add  the  alcohol  and  continue  the 
heat  for  a  few  minutes.    Lastly  pour  into 
bottles  while  it  is  still  hot.     This  is  said  to  be 
superior  to  "  Spaulding's  liquid  glue." 

2299.  Glycerine  Paste  for  Office  Use. 
Glycerine  paste  for  office  use  may  be  prepared 
by    dissolving   1    ounce    gum-arabic    and    2 
drachms    of  glycerine    in  3    ounces  boiling 
water. 

2300.  Government  Postage    Stamp 
Mucilage.     The  substance  used  lor  gumming 
stamps  is  made  as  follows.     Gum  dextrine,  2 
parts ;   acetic   acid,    1   part ;   water,  5  parts. 
Dissolve  in  a  water-bath,  and  add  alcohol,  1 
part. 

2301.  Mucilage  for  Labels.     Macerate 
5  parts  good  glue  in  18  to  20  parts  water  for  a 
day,  and  to  the  liquid  add  9  parts  rock  candy 
and  3  parts  gum-arabic.    The  mixture  can  be 
brushed  upon  paper  while  lukewarm;  it  keeps 
well,  does  not  stick  together,  and,  when  moist- 
ened, adheres  firmly  to  bottles. 

2302.  Mucilage  for  Soda  or  Seltzer 
Water  Bottles.     For  the  labels  of  soda  or 
seltzer  water  bottles  it  is  well  to  prepare  a 
paste  of  good  rye  flour  and  glue  to  which  lin- 
seed  oil   varnish  and  turpentine  have   been 
added  in  the  proportion  of  |  an  ounce  of  each 
to  the  pound.     Labels  prepared  in  the  latter 
way  do  not  fall  off  in  damp  cellars. 

2303.  Very  Strong  Liquid  Glue.     To 
make  this,  put  3  parts  glue  in  8  parts  cold  wa- 
ter, and  let  them  stand  for  several  hours  to 
soften  the  glue ;  then  add  3  part  muriatic  acid 
and  J  part  sulphate  of  zinc,  and  heat  the  mix- 
ture to  185°  Fahr.,  for  10  or  12  hours.     The 
mixture  remains  liquid  after  cooling,  and  is 
said  to  be  very  useful  for  sticking  wood,  crock- 
ery, and  glass  together. 

2304.  Good  Mucilage.     For  household 
purposes  this  may  be  made  by  mixing  3  ounces 
gum-arabic,  3  ounces  distilled  vinegar,  with  1 
ounce  white  sugar.     Instead  of  the  distilled 
vinegar,  1  part  acetic  acid  and  5  parts  water 
may  be  substituted. 

2305.  To  Prevent  Mould  in  Mucilage. 
Solutions  of  gum-arabic  are  very  liable  to  be- 
come mouldy;  and  while  the  introduction  of 


SEALING-WAX. 


221 


creosote,  corrosive  sublimate,  etc.,  frequently 
used  to  remedy  this  evil,  is  objectionable  on 
account  of  the  danger  of  poisoning,  according 
to  the  "Industrie  Blatter,  "sulphate  of  quinine 
is  a  complete  protection  against  mould,  a  very 
small  quantity  of  it  being  sufficient  to  prevent 
gum  mucilage  from  spoiling.  It  is  quite  pos- 
sible that  writing  ink  might  be  protected,  by 
the  same  application,  from  a  like  difficulty. 
The  use  of  ammonia  for  the  same  purpose  is 
also  recommended. 

2306.  Elastic    Glue  which    does  not 
spoil  is  obtained  as  follows :     Good  common 
glue  is  dissolved  in  water,  on  the  water-bath, 
and  the  water  evaporated  down  to  a  mass  of 
thick  consistence,  to  which  a  quantity  of  gly- 
cerine, equal  in  weight  with  the  glue,  is  added, 
after  which  the  heating  is  continued  until  all 
the  water  has  been  driven  off,  when  the  mass 
is  poured  out  into  moulds,  or  on  a  marble  slab. 
This  mixture   answers  for  stamps,  printers' 
rolls,  galvano-plastic  copies,  etc. 

2307.  Sweet    Mouth   Glue.      Sweet 
glue,  for  ready  use  by  moistening  with  the 
tongue,  is  made  in  the  same  way  as  elastic 
glue,  substituting,  however,  the  same  quantity 
of  powdered  sugar  for  the  glycerine. 

2308.  Portable  Glue   or  Bank-Note 
Cement.     Boil  1  pound  best  glue,  strain  it 
very  clear ;  boil  also  4  ounces  isinglass ;  put 
it  into  a  double  glue-pot,  with  i  pound  fine 
brown  sugar,  and  boil  it  pretty  thick;  then 
pour  it  into  plates  or  moulds.    When  cold, 
you  may  cut  and  dry  them  for  the  pocket. 
This  glue  is  very    useful    to   draughtsmen, 
architects,  <fcc.,  as  it  immediately  dilutes  in 
warm  water,  and  fastens  the  paper  without  the 
process  of  damping;  or,  it  may  be  used  by  soft- 
ening it  in  the  mouth,  and  applying  it  to  the 
paper. 

2309.  To  Make  Mucilage  that  will 
Adhere  to   Glass  or  Polished  Surfaces. 
"We  all  know  the  difficulty  of  causing  labels 
and  similar  objects  to  stick  to  glass  or  highly 
varnished  articles  exposed  to  the  continued 
drying  action  of  a  very  warm  room.    The  gum 
or  paste  dries  up  and  cracks,  causing  the  label 
to  fall  off.     One  or  two  drops  of  glycerine  in 
a  small  bottle  of  mucilage  will  entirely  pre- 
vent this  result.     Too  much  glycerine  must 
not  be  added,  or  the  cement  will  fail  to  harden 
at  all. 

2310.  Mucilage     of     Tragacanth. 
Triturate  1  drachm  powdered  gum  tragacanth 
in  a  mortar  with  6  drachms  glycerine ;  add  by 
degrees,   with    constant  trituration,   10  fluid 
ounces  water.     This  will  produce  a  mucilage 
at  once,  without  the  objectionable  air-bubbles 
incidental  to  agitation. 

2311.  Mucilage     of    Tragacanth. 
Macerate  1  ounce  tragacanth  in  1  pint  boiling 
water  for  24   hours.      Then    triturate    until 
smooth  and  uniform,  and  press  through  linen. 
If  pretty  firm  this  paste  keeps  well  without  the 
addition   of   an  antiseptic,  although  a  little 
acetic  acid  or 'creosote  will  more  effectually 
prevent  fermentation. 


O  ealing-  Wax. 

kj   receipts  for  fine  wa 


All  the  following 

receipts~'for  fine  wax  produce  superfine 

by  employing  the  best  qualities  of  the  ingredi- 
ents; and  extra  superfine  or  scented  by  adding 


1  per  cent,  of  balsam  of  Peru  or  liquid  storax 
to  the  ingredients  when  considerably  cooled. 
The  fancy  kinds  are  commonly  scented  with  a 
little  essence  of  musk  or  ambergris,  or  any  of 
the  more  fragrant  essential  oils.    The  addition 
of  a  little  camphor,  or  spirit  of  wine,  makes 
sealing-wax  burn  easier.     Sealing-wax  con- 
taining resin,  or  too  much  turpentine,  runs 
into  thin  drops  at  the  flame  of  the  candle. 

2313.  Fine  Red  Sealing-Wax.    Melt 
cautiously  4  ounces  very  pale   shellac    in  a 
bright  copper  pan  over  a  clear  charcoal  fire,  at 
the  lowest  degree  of  heat  that  will  be  neces- 
sary to  melt  it;  when  melted,  stir  in  1J  ounces 
Yenice  turpentine  (previously  warmed),  fol- 
lowed by  3  ounces  vermilion.    The  heat  must 
be  neither  too  much  nor  too  little,  but  just 
sufficient  to  allow  a  most  thorough  mixing  of 
the  different  ingredients.     "When  this  is  ac- 
complished, the  fluid  mass  is  discharged  into 
metallic  moulds  and  left  to  cool.     For  the 
purpose  of  melting  the  shellac  more  easily, 
some  add  to  the  same  a  little  alcohol.     Or :  3 
pounds  shellac,  1J  pounds  Venice  turpentine, 
and  2  pounds  finest  cinnabar,  mixed  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  preceding. 

2314.  To  Produce  a  Polish  on  Seal- 
ing-Wax.     After    the    above    process    the 
sticks  of  sealing-wax  have  no  polish.      To 
produce  this  they  have  to  be  heated  again 
on  the  surface.     For  this  purpose  they  are 
put  in  other  moulds,  made  of  polished  steel, 
which  are   engraved  with  the  desired  orna- 
ments.   These  moulds  are  heated  only  just 
sufficient    to  melt   the  sealing-wax  on    the 
surface,  by  which  operation  the  sticks  obtain 
a  beautiful    glossy  appearance.     The   heat- 
ing of  the  moulds  to  stamp  the  mark  of  the 
manufacturer  can  be  readily  performed  with  a 
spirit  lamp. 

2315.  Common   Bed   Sealing-Wax. 
Melt  together  4  pounds  resin  and  2  pounds 
shellac;    mix  in,  as  in  the  last  receipt,  Ik 
pounds  each  of  Venice  turpentine  and  red  lead. 

2316.  Fine  Black  Sealing-Wax. 
Take  60  parts  shellac,  30  parts  finely-powdered 
ivory  black,  and  20  parts  Venice  turpentine ; 
mixed  as  in  No.  2313. 

2317.  Common  Black  Sealing- Wax. 
Mix  together  (see  No.  2313)  6  pounds  resin,  2 
pounds  each  shellac  and  Venice  turpentine, 
and  sufficient  lampblack  to  color. 

2318.  Gold  Colored  Sealing-Wax. 
This  is  made  by  stirring  gold  colored  mica 
spangles  into  the  melted  resins  just  before  they 
begin  to  cool.  Or  :  By  taking  finely  pulver- 
ized gold-leaf  (see  No.  25)  or  metal  powder, 
and  stirring  them  into  the  sealing-wax  in- 
stead of  the  colors.  A  common  kind  is  made 
as  follows :  6  parts  shellac,  2  white  resin,  1 
silver  leaves. 

2319.  Marbled  Sealing-Wax  is  made 
by  mixing  different  kinds  of  sealing-wax  to- 
gether just  as  they  begin  to  solidify. 

2320.  Yellow  Sealing-Wax.     Mix  to- 
gether 4  ounces  pale  shellac,  1J  ounces  resin, 

2  ounces  Venice  turpentine,   and    f   ounce 
King's    yellow    (sulphuret    of    arsenic,    or 
orpiment). 

2321.  Light   Brown    Sealing- Wax. 
Take  7  i  ounces  shellac  and  4  ounces  Venice 
turpentine;    and  color  with  1  ounce  brown 
ochre  and  |  ounce  cinnabar  (red  stilphuret  of 
mercury  or  vermilion). 


222 


BOILER    INCRUSTATIONS. 


2322.  Blue   Sealing-Wax.     Take  16 
parts  mastic,  4  turpentine,  8  mountain-blue, 
3  burned  selenite.     The  mountain-blue  turns 
green  by  the  heat  of  melting  the  mixture ; 
therefore  it  is  better  to  use  fine  indigo,  or  very 
fine  Prussian  blue ;  but  in  that  case  the  shel- 
lac must  be  particularly  light-colored. 

2323.  Dark  Blue  Sealing-Wax.    Mix 
7  ounces  fine  shellac,  3  ounces  Yenice  turpen- 
tine, 1  ounce  resin,  and  1  ounce  mineral  blue. 

2324.  Green   Sealing-Wax.     Mix  4 
ounces  shellac,  2  ounces  Venice  turpentine,  1J 
ounces  resin,  i  ounce  King's  yellow  (see  No. 
2320),    and  J  ounce  mineral  blue.     Or:  24 
parts  shellac.  12  mastic,  4  turpentine,  6  verdi- 
gris ;    colored  with  a  mixture  of  yellow  and 
indigo. 

2325.  To  Make  Perfumed  Sealing- 
Wax.     Any  fine  sealing-wax  may  be  per- 
fumed by  mixing  1  per  cent,  of  balsam  of 
Peru,  or  liquid  storax,  to  the  ingredients  when 
considerably  cooled.    A  little  essence  of  musk 
or  ambergris  will  serve  the  same  purpose. 
The  addition  of  a  little  camphor  or  spirit  of 
wine  makes  sealing-wax  melt  easier. 

2326.  To  Improve  the  Appearance 
of  Common  Sealing-Wax.     To  make  com- 
mon sealing-wax  appear  to  better  advantage, 
the  sticks,  being  still  soft,  are  dipped  in  the 
powder  of  a  better  quality,  and  then  super- 
ficially melted,  so  as  to  produce  a  thin  coating. 

2327.  Soft   Sealing-Wax  for  Diplo- 
mas.    Take  16  parts  yellow  wax,  3  turpen- 
tine, 1  olive  oil ;  after  it  is  melted,  the  cinna- 
bar, or  other  coloring  matter,  is  stirred  in  the 
compound. 

2328.  To  Take  Proof-Impressions  of 
Seals  and  Stamps.     For  this  purpose  the 
very  best  sealing-wax  is  melted  as  usual  by  a 
flame,  and  carefully  worked  on  the  surface  to 
which  it  is  applied,  until  perfectly  even ;  the 
stamp  is  then  firmly  and  evenly  pressed  into 
it.    The  flame  of  a  spirit  lamp  is  preferable, 
having  no  tendency  to  blacken  the  wax.    A 
beautiful  dead  appearance  is  given  to  the  im- 
pression by  dusting  the  stamp,  before  using 
it,  with  a  finely-powdered  pigment  of   the 
same  color  as  the  wax ;  thus,  for  vermilion 
sealing-wax,  powdered  vermilion,  &c. 


Boiler  Incrustations,  in 
a  lengthy  article  on  the  subject,  which 
appeared  in  the  "  Scientific  American,"  Pro- 
fessor Chandler  gives  the  substances  referred 
to  in  the  four  following  receipts,  as  having 
been  recommended  by  practical  men,  for  the 
purpose  of  preventing  incrustations  in  boilers: 
2330.  Wood  Chips,  Bark,  &c.,  as  a 
Preventive  of  Incrustation.  Catechu, 
nut-galls,  oak  bark,  shavings  and  sawdust,  tan 
bark,  tormentilla  root,  mahogany,  logwood, 
£tc.  These  substances  all  contain  more  or  less 
tannic  acid,  associated  with  soluble  extractive 
and  coloring  matters.  "When  they  are  intro- 
duced into  the  boiler,  the  soluble  constituents 
&re  dissolved  by  the  water,  and  basic  tannate 
of  lime  is  formed,  which  separates  as  a  loose 
deposit,  and  does  not  adhere  to  the  sides  of 
the  boiler.  It  is  preferable  to  use  the  aqueous 
extract,  as  sawdust,  chips,  etc.,  are  liable  to 
find  their  way  into  the  cocks  and  tubes,  al- 
though they  act  mechanically,  receiving  in- 


crustations which  would  otherwise  fasten 
themselves  on  the  sides  of  the  boiler.  In 
selecting  one  of  these  substances,  the  princi- 
pal object  is  to  secure  the  largest  quantity  of 
tannic  acid  and  soluble  extractive  matter  for 
the  lowest  price.  Some  of  these  substances 
are  said  to  be  very  effective,  £  pound  of 
catechu  being  sufficient  for  100  cubic  feet 
of  water.  From  4  to  6  pounds  of  oak  chips 
have  been  recommended  per  horse  power,  or  i 
bushel  mahogany  chips  for  every  10  horse 
power. 

2331.  Mucilaginous   Substances   as 
Preventives.    Potatoes,  starch,  bran,  linseed 
meal,  gum,  dextrine,  Irish  moss,  slippery  elm, 
marshmallow  root,  glue,  etc.  These  substances 
form,  sooner  or  later,   a  slimy  liquid  in  the 
boiler,  which  prevents  more  or  less  completely 
the  settling  and  hardening  of  the  deposits. 
Some  of  them  may  even  hold  the  lime  and 
magnesia  in  solution.     Potatoes  have  been 
used  for  many  years,  wherever  steam  engines 
are  employed;    half  a  peck  or  a  peck  are 
thrown  into  the  boiler  weekly.     Linseed  meal 
mixed  with  chopped  straw  was  employed  on 
a  German  railway,  a  peck  at  a  time  being  in- 
troduced  into    each    boiler.      Some  writers 
object  to  these  organic  substances,   on  the 
ground  that  they  are  liable  to  cause  frothing. 

2332.  Saccharine  Matter  as  Prevent- 
ives.       Sugar,    molasses,    corn     or    potato 
syrup.      Both  cane  and    grape    sugar  form 
soluble  compounds  with  lime  salts,  and  con- 
sequently prevent  their  separation  as  incrust- 
ations.    One  engineer  found  that  10  pounds 
of  brown  sugar  protected  his  boiler  lor  two 
months ;  another,  that  6  pounds  of  corn  starch 
syrup  had  a  similar  effect.      Another  used 
molasses  with  success,  introducing  a  gallon  at 
a  time. 

2333.  Fatty  Substances  as  Prevent- 
ives.    One  writer  used  whale  oil  to  prevent 
incrustations,  2  or  3  gallons  at  a  time.     Others 
smear  the  inside  of  the  boiler  with   various 
mixtures    of   a   fatty    character.       Stearine, 
mixed  with  wood  ashes,  charcoal  and  tar,  has 
been  recommended,  or  tallow,  with  soap  and 
charcoal  diluted  with  oil  or  tar,  or  tallow  and 
graphite.    This  plan  could  not  well  be  applied 
to  a   locomotive   boiler  with    its  numerous 
tubes,  even  though  it  should  prove  effective 
in  cylinder  boilers. 

2334.  Anti-Incrustation    Powders, 
&c.,   for  Boilers.     Regarding   incrustation 
powders  in  use,  Professor   Chandler    makes 
the  following  suggestions  and  recommenda- 
tions:   Incrustation  powders,  bearing  gener- 
ally the  names  of  their  proprietors,  are  ex- 
tensively advertised  and  sold ;  they  are  either 
worthless  or  are  sold    at  such  extravagant 
prices  as  to  make  their  use  extremely  ill-advis- 
ed. I  have  examined  several  of  them.     Those 
which  are  at  all  valuable  consist  of  one  or 
more  of  the  substances  already  mentioned, 
and  the  only  novel  result  of  their  use  is  the 
payment  of  many  times  the  commercial  value 
for  a  fair  article.    One  which  is  put  up  in  tin 
boxes,  containing  about  one  pound,  at  $2.50 
each,  contains  carbonate  of  lime,  95.35  parts  ; 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  0.67  parts ;  and  oxide 
of  iron,  4.15  parts.     It  differs  little  from  some 
of  the  incrustations  in  composition,  and  is  of 
no  value  whatever.     Another  contains   log- 
wood,  75.00    parts ;     chloride    of   ammonia, 


GLASS. 


223 


15.00  parts ;  chloride  of  barium,  10.00  parts. 
This  is  a  very  good  article,  but  at  the  price 
for  which  it  is  sold  it  cannot  be  used  in  quanti 
ties  sufficient  to  produce  much  effect.  In 
fact,  chloride  of  barium  is  too  expensive  to  b 
used  in  this  country  at  all. 

2335.  To   Guard  Against  Incrusta- 
tion in  Boilers.     Professor  Chandler  recom 
mends  the  following  precautions :  The  use  o 
the  purest  waters  that  can  be  obtained,  rain 
water  wherever  possible.    Frequent  use  of  the 
blow-off  cock.      That    the  boilers  never  be 
emptied  while  there  is  fire  enough  to  harden 
the  deposit.     Frequent  washing  out.    Exper 
iments  on  the   efficacy   of  zinc,   lime-water 
carbonate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  baryta,  chlor 
ide  of  ammonium,  some  substance  containing 
tannic  acid,   linseed  meal,   and  the  electro 
magnetic  inductor. 

2336.  Management  of  the  Water  to 
Prevent   Boiler    Incrustation.      Blowing 
off.     The  frequent  blowing  off  of  -small  quan- 
tities of  water,  say  a  few  gallons  at  a  time,  is 
undoubtedly  one  of  the  most  effective  anc 
simple  methods  for  removing  sediments  and 
preventing  their  hardening  on  the  sides  of  the 
boiler.     The  water  entering  the  boiler  should 
be  directed  in  such  a  way  as  to  sweep  the 
loose  particles  toward  the  blow-off  cocks,  thai 
when  these  are  open  they  may  be  carried  oul 
with  the  water.    This  bio  wing  off  should  take 
place  at  least  two  or  three  times  daily,  per- 
haps much  oftener. 

2337.  Incrustation  in  Boilers.    The  on- 
ly effectual  remedy  is  to  blow  out  frequently. 
Blow  out  once  a  week  at  least  ten  per  cent,  ol 
the  water  in  the  boilers.    It  should  be  done 
while  the  water  is  at  rest,  that  is,  before  start- 
ing in  the  feed  water.    A  practical  engineer 
says :    Our  boilers  were  badly  incrusted.     We 
loosened  the  scale  with  chisels  and  kerosene 
oil,  and  after  running  them  a  year  as  above, 
they  came  out  as  clean  and  bright  as  could  be. 

2338.  Scale  in  Boilers.    A  practical 
engineer  recommends  the  following :  Get  some 
cow  or  ox  feet,  just  as  they  are  cut  off  in  the 
slaughter  house,  put  them  in  a  wire  net  fine 
enough  to  detain  the  small  bones  from  getting 
from  the  boiler  into  the  blow-off  pipe.     Use  5 
of  the  feet  to  a  6-horse  power  boiler,  and  no 
further  trouble  with  scale  in  the  boilers  will 
be    experienced.      They    must   be    replaced 
every  two  or  three  months,  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  water.    They  do  not  make  the 
water  foam. 


GlciSS.  This  is  a  compound  of  silica  (sil- 
icic acid)  with  the  oxide  of  an  alkaline 
metal,  obtained  by  fusion.  In  its  usual  form  it 
is  brittle,  transparent,  non-crystalline,  insolu- 
ble, and  fusible;  but  it  sometimes  exhibits  oth- 
er qualities.  The  principle  of  its  production  is 
very  simple,  although  skill  and  experience  are 
necessary  to  insure  excellence.  Silica  (com- 
monly under  the  form  of  sand)  is  heated  with 
carbonate  of  potassa  or  soda  and  slaked  lime 
or  oxide  of  lead,  until  the  mixture  fuses  and 
combination  takes  place.  When  the  mass  be- 
comes perfectly  limpid  and  free  from  air  bub- 
bles, it  is  allowed  to  cool  until  it  assumes  the 
peculiar  tenacious  condition  for  working. 


1  The  fusion  is  performed  in  large  crucibles  of 
refractory  fire-clay ;  in  making  lead  glass,  the 
crucible  is  covered  with  a  dome,  and  an  open- 
ing left  in  the  side,  through  which  the  mate- 
rials are  put  in  and  the  melted  glass  with- 
drawn.      Carbonates    and    other  crystalline 
matter  used  in  glass  making,  require  to  be  dry. 
(See  No.  2065.)    Certain  mineral  oxides  give 
glass  a  variety  of  color,  sometimes  of  a  very 
undesirable  kind.     Should  the  paste  contain 
traces  of  iron,  instead  of  producing  white 
glass  there  will  be  only  the  common  bottle- 
glass  ;  and  if  the  iron  be  in  larger  proportions, 
the  dark  green  shade  will  be  the  result.     On 
the  contrary,  add  a  certain  quantity  of  oxide 
of  lead  to  a  pure  base  of  potash,  and  the 
beautiful  crystal  glass  is  formed;  a  still  larger 
dose,  and  the  diamond  paste,  with  its  wonder- 
fully dispersive  power,  will  deceive  many  an 
unpracticed  eye. 

2340.  Peligot's  Bohemian  Tube  Glass. 
The  component  parts  of  this  glass   are  7LJ- 
parts  quartz,  20  parts  dry  (see  No.  2065)  car- 
bonate of  potassa  (or  its  equivalent),  8-J-  parts 
quicklime,  and  a  little  manganese.     It  is  very 
intractable  and  difficult  to  melt,  but  the  addi- 
tion of  a  very  small  quantity  of  borax,  boracic 
acid,  or  arsenious  acid,  causes  it  to  flow  into 
a  glass  of  great  brilliancy  and  hardness,  and 
capable  of  being  wrought  at  the  highest  heat 
of  the  ordinary  furnace. 

2341.  Bottle  Glass.    Dry  Glauber  salts, 
11  pounds ;  soaper  salts,  12  pounds  ;  it  bushel 
of  waste  soap  ashes;  sand,  56  pounds;  glass 
skimmings,  22  pounds;  green  broken  glass,  1 
cwt.;  basalt,  .25  pounds.     This  mixture  af- 
fords a  dark  green  glass.     Or :    Yellow  or 
white  sand,  100  parts ;  kelp,  30  to  40  parts ; 
lixiviated  wood  ashes,  from  160  to  170  parts ; 
fresh    wood  ashes,  30  to  40  parts ;  potter's 
clay,  80  to  100  parts ;  cullet,  or  broken  glass, 
100  parts.    If  basalt  be  used,  the  proportion 
of  kelp  may  be  diminished. 

2342.  Broad,  or  Green  "Window  Glass. 
Dry  Glauber  salts,  11  pounds ;  soaper  salts, 
10  pounds;  i  bushel  of  lixiviated  soap  waste; 
50  pounds  of  sand;  22  pounds  of  glass-pot 
skimmings ;  1  cwt.  of  broken  green  glass. 

2343.  Crown,  or  White  Window 
Glass.  Pure  sand,  100  parts ;  dry  sulphate 
of  soda,  50  parts ;  dry  quicklime,  in  powder, 
17  to  20  parts ;  charcoal,  4  parts.  The  pro- 
duct is  white  and  good. 

2344.  Bohemian  Crown  Glass.    Pure 
silicious   sand,   63  parts;   potash,   22  parts; 
iime,  12  parts ;  oxide  of  manganese,  1  part. 

2345.  Nearly  White   Table  Glass. 
Take    20  pounds  potashes,    11  pounds    dry 
Glauber  salts,  16  pounds  soaper  salt,  55  pounds 
sand,  and  140  pounds  cullet  or  broken  glass 
of  the  same  kind.     Or :  100  parts  sand,  235 
celp,  60  wood  ashes,  1£  manganese,  100  bro- 
£en  glass. 

2346.  White  Table  Glass.     Fuse  to- 
gether 40  pounds  potashes,  11  chalk,  76  sand, 
E  part  manganese,  95  white  cullet.     Or :    50 

parts  purified  potashes,  100  sand,  20  chalk, 
and  2  saltpetre. 

2347.  Crystal  Glass.     Take  60  parts  pu- 
rified potashes,  120  sand,  24  chalk,  2  saltpetre, 

2  arsenious  acid,  ~fa  part  manganese.     Or : 
'urified  pearlashes,  70  parts;  120  white  sand; 

10  saltpetre;   i  part  arsenious  acid;    and  J 
part  manganese.     Or :  67  parts  sand,  23  puri 


224: 


GLASS. 


part 


fied  pearlashes,  10  sifted  slacked  lime, 
manganese,  5  to  8  red  lead. 

2348.  Clear  Crystal   Glass.      White 
sand,  15  parts  ;  red  lead,  10  parts  ;  refined 
ashes,  4  parts  ;  nitre,  1  part  ;  arsenious  acid 
and  manganese,  of  each  a  very  little. 

2349.  Vienna  Plate  Glass.    Sand,  100 
parts  ;    calcined  sulphate  of  soda,  50  parts  ; 
lime,  20  parts;  charcoal,  2f  parts. 

2350.  Plate  Glass.      Pure   sand,   40 


parts  ;  dry  carbonate  of  soda,  26i  parts ; 
lime,  4  parts;  nitre,  li  parts;  broken  plate 
glass,  25  parts. 

2351.  French  Plate  Glass.  White 
quartz  sand  and  cullet  (old  glass),  of  each 
300  parts ;  dry  carbonate  of  soda,  100  parts ; 
slacked  lime,  43  parts.  Or:  Pure  sand,  72 
parts ;  refined  soda,  45  parts ;  quicklime,  48 
parts ;  nitre,  2-J-  parts ;  cullet  (old  glass),  45 
parts. 


2352.    Table  of  Proportions  of  the  Materials  Used  for  Making  Lead  Glass, 
the  Numbers  Increasing  with  the  Quality. 


Silica.  

Crystal. 

Common  Flint. 

Optical. 

Paste  to  imitate 
Diamonds,  &c. 

1. 

ft. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 

10. 

11. 

12. 

13. 

100 
10 
35 

13 

100 
30 
33 
10 

100 
42 
33 
15 

100 
45 
35 

100 
48 
16 

8 

100 
66 
26 

7 

100 
70 
40 
3 

100 
80  to  85 
35  to  40 
2  to  3 

100 
100 
23 

.7 

100 
100 
23 
1.3 

1.8 

100 
133 
13 

100 
154 
56 

6.3 

100 
160 
20 
20 

Oxide  of  Lead  

Potash,  purified  

Saltpetre  ..  ....... 

Carbonate  of  Lime  
Borax  *  

It  has  been  suggested  that  the  oxide,  or 
other  salt  of  thallium,  substituted  for  the  lead, 
makes  a  paste  of  greater  brilliancy  and  dis- 
persive powers  for  optical  purposes,  and  for 
imitation  gems. 

2353.  Ingredients  for  Coloring  Paste 
to  Imitate  Gems.     The  following  propor- 
tions must  be  added  to  1000  parts  of  paste 
No.  12  in  the  above  table  of  lead  glass. 

2354.  For  Topaz.     Antimony  glass,  40 
parts;  and  1  part  gold  purple  (purple  of  cassius. 
see  Nos.  2720  to  2723.) 

2355.  For  Ruby.   A  ruby  color  is  given 
by  25  parts  oxide  of  manganese. 

2356.  For  Amethyst.   Oxide  of  manga- 
nese, 8  parts ;  £  part  gold  purple  (see  Nos.  2720 
to  2723),  and  5  parts  oxide  of  cobalt. 

2357.  For  Garnet.      Antimony    glass, 
500  parts ;  4  parts  oxide  of  manganese,  and  4 
parts  gold  purple.     (See  Nos.  2720  to  2723.) 

2358.  For    Sapphire.     Take   15  parts 
oxide  of  cobalt. 

2359.  For  Aqua  Marine.    Take  7  parts 
antimony  glass,  f  part  oxide  of  cobalt. 

2360.  For  Emerald.     Take  8  parts  ox- 
ide of  copper,  £  part  oxide  of  chrome. 

2361.  To  Stain  or  Color  Glass.    Dif- 
ferent colors  are  given  to  glass  by  the  addition 
of  metallic  oxides.    Thus,  for  amethyst,  oxide 
of  manganese  is  used ;  for  'blue,  oxide  of  co- 
balt;  for  brown,   oxide  of  iron;  for  green, 
black  oxide  of  copper;  for  purple,  oxide  of 
gold ;  for  ruby  red,  suboxide  of  copper ;  for 
white,  oxide  of  tin ;  for  yellow,  oxide  of  silver, 
<tc.    These  substances  are  either  added  to  the 
melted  contents  of  the  glass-pot,  as  in  prepar- 
ing artificial  gems  (see  No.  2419),  or  are  ap- 
plied in  a  thin  layer  to  the  surface  of  the 
object,  which  is  then  heated  until  the  coloring 
compound  fuses  as  in  enameling.     (See  No. 
2378.) 

2362.  French  Glass  Used  for  Light- 
Houses.      The  special  composition  of  the 
crown  glass  used  for  the  light  apparatus  for 
light-houses  was,  until  quite  recently,  kept  a 
secret  by  the  manufacturers  of  Saint  Gobain, 
in  France,  and  some  firms  in  Birmingham, 
which  had  the  monopoly  of  this  branch  of 
trade.      From  the   researches  of  David  M. 


Henderson,  C.  E.,  we  are  able  to  furnish  the 
composition  of  both.  The  French  glass  is 
composed  of  silicic  acid,  72.1  parts;  soda,  12.2 
parts;  and  lime,  15.7  parts;  including  some 
traces  of  alumina  and  oxide  of  iron. 

2363.  English  Light-House  Glass. 
In  Birmingham  it  is  made  from  560  pounds 
French  sand,  203  pounds  carbonate  of  soda, 
63  pounds  lime,  28  pounds  nitrate  of  soda, 
and  3  pounds  arsenious  acid.  The  best  qual- 
ities of  this  glass  are  at  present  produced  in 
the  Siemens  furnace. 

2364.  Liquid  Spectroscopes.     The  use 
of  transparent  liquids,  such  as  bisulphide  of 
carbon,  for  the  manufacture  of  lenses,  is  mak- 
ing rapid  progress  on  the  ground  of  economy ; 
large  pieces  of  glass,  free  from  flaw  and  blem- 
ish, being  difficult  to  obtain,  and  expensive. 
PoggeudorfFs  "Annalen"  calls  attention  to 
possible  disturbances  of  the  accuracy  of  liquid 
prisms,  the  lines  in  the  spectrum  varying  with 
the  temperature.    The  divergence,  owing  to 
changes  of  heat  and  cold,  of  the  lines  of  solid 
prisms,  is  quite  insignificant.     A  glass  prism, 
heated  in  the  sun  and  then  removed  to  the 
shade,  was  observed  to  possess  an  increased 
refractive  power  as  it  cooled,  while  a  bisul- 
phide prism  exhibited  a  reversed  result.   These 
facts  point  out  the  importance  of  the  use  of  the 
thermometer  in  conjunction  with  the  spectro- 
scope, and  also  show  that  there  is  room  for 
great  improvement  in  the    manufacture    of 
glass  for  optical  purposes. 

2365.  Prismatic  Diamond  Crystals 
for  Windows.    A  hot  solution  of  sulphate 
of  magnesia,  and  a  clear  solution  of  gum-ara- 
bic, mixed  together.    Lay  it  on  hot.     For  a 
margin  or  for  figures,  wipe  off  the  part  you 
wish  to  remain  clear  with  a  wet  towel. 

2366.  To  Drill  Glass.    Wet  an  ordinary 
drill  with  petroleum  or  benzine ;   turpentine 
will  answer,  but  not  so  well ;  it  will  then  bore 
common  glass  nearly  as  rapidly  as  steel.     If 
it  is  intended  to  bore  through,  the  glass  should 
be  first  countersunk  on  each  side  with  a  drill 
dressed  off  so  as  to  form  a  very  flat  three- 
sided  pyramid.     Flint  and  plate-glass  are  very 
difficult  to  bore.     It  has  been  recently  ascer- 
tained that  dilute  sulphuric  acid  is  much  more 


ENAMELS. 


225 


effective,  -with  less  -wear  of  the  tool,  than  oil 
of  turpentine.  It  is  stated  that  at  Berlin, 
glass  castings  for  pump  barrels  etc.,  are  drilled, 
planed  and  bored  like  iron  ones,  and  in  the 
same  lathes  and  machines,  by  the  aid  of  sul- 
phuric acid. 

2367.  To  Cut  Glass  Round  or  Oval 
Without  a  Diamond.     Scratch  the  glass 
around  the  shape  you  desire  with  the  corner 
of  a  file  or  graver ;  then,  having  bent  a  piece 
of  wire  to  the  same  shape,  heat  it  red  hot  and 
lay  it  upon  the  scratch,  sink  the  glass  into 
cold  water  just  deep  enough  for  the  water  to 
come  almost  on  a  level  with  its  upper  surface. 

2368.  To  Break  Glass  in  any  Required 
Way.      Dip  a  piece  of  worsted  thread  in 
spirits  of  turpentine,  wrap  it  round  the  glass 
in  the  direction  required  to  be  broken,  and 
then  set  fire  to  the  thread,  or  apply  a  red  hot 
wire  round  the  glass ;  if  it  does  not  immediate- 
ly crack,  throw  cold  water  on  it  while  the 
wire  remains  hot.     By  this  means  glass  ves- 
sels that  have  been  broken  may  often  be  fash- 
ioned and  rendered  useful  for  a  variety  of  pur- 
poses. 

2369.  To  Break  a  Glass    Bottle    or 
Jar  Across  its  Circumference.     Place  the 
bottle  in  a  vessel  of  water,  to  the  height  where 
it  is  designed  to  break  >it;  also  fill  the  bottle 
to  the  same  level.    Ifow  pour  coal  oil  inside 
and  out  on  the  water ;  cut  a  ring  of  paper, 
fitting  the  bottle.    Saturate  with  alcohol  or 
benzine,   so  that  it  touches  the  oil.    Pour, 
also,  some  inside  the  bottle.     Set  on  fire;  the 
cold  water  prevents  the  glass  from  heating 
below  its  surface,  while  the  expansion  caused 
by  the  heat  will  break  the  vessel  on  the  water 
line. 

2370.  Glass  of  Antimony.   Roast  pow- 
dered antimony  in  a  shallow  vessel  over  a 
gentle  fire,  until  it  turns  whitish  gray,  and 
ceases  to  emit  fumes  at  a  red  heat ;  then  heat 
it  in  a  crucible  until  it  fuses  into  a  brownish 
red  glass.    If  calcined  too  much,  a  little  more 
antimony  must  be  added  to  make  it  run  well. 

2371.  Writing  on  Glass.      This  may 
be  done  with  a  piece  of  French  chalk,  or 
crayons  prepared  for  the  purpose;   or  even 
with  a  common  pen  held  nearly  perpendicular. 
India  ink,  or,  when  the  article  will  be  exposed 
to  damp,  shellac  varnish,  thickened  with  a 
little  vermilion  or  lampblack,  for  red  or  black 
color,  is  best  adapted  for  the  purpose.     Com- 
mon ink  is  not  sufficiently  opaque. 

2372.  To  Imitate  Ground  Glass.    A 
ready  way  of  imitating  ground  glass  is  to  dis- 
solve Epsom  salts  in  beer,  and  apply  with  a 
brush.     As  it  dries  it  crystallizes. 

2373.  To  Make  Prince  Rupert's 
Drops.  Prince  Rupert's  drops  are  made  by 
letting  drops  of  melted  glass  fall  into  cold  wa- 
ter ;  the  drops  assume  by  that  means  an  oval 
form,  with  a  tail  or  neck  resembling  a  retort. 
They  possess  this  singular  property,  that  if  a 
small  portion  of  the  tail  is  broken  off,  the 
whole  bursts  into  powder,  with  an  explosion, 
and  a  considerable  shock  is  communicated  to 
the  hand  that  grasps  it. 

2374.  To  Etch  on  Glass.  Etching  with 
hydrofluoric  acid  on  plate  glass  is  practiced 
now  to  a  very  considerable  extent,  the  French 
manufacturers  especially  producing  splendid 
ornamental  effects  by  this  process.  The 
drawings  to  be  imitated  or  etched  on  the  glass 


are  first  made  on  stone  or  plate  and  then 
printed  on  unsized  paper  with  an  ink  consist- 
ing principally  of  a  solution  of  asphalturn  in 
oil  of  turpentine  made  with  the  aid  of  heat,  to 
which  some  substance  is  added  which  shows 
a  more  or  less  crystalline  structure  on  cooling, 
as  stearic  acid,  spermaceti,  naphthaline,  par- 
affme.  This  mixture  is  strained  and  rapidly 
cooled  with  constant  stirring ;  it  is  the  only 
kind  of  coating  which  thoroughly  resists  the 
action  of  the  corrosive  acid.  The  printed  pa- 
per is  laid  flat  with  the  blank  side  on  water, 
to  which  from  10  to  25  per  cent,  of  muriatic 
acid  has  been  added,  and  as  soon  as  the  lines 
show  signs  of  softening  the  negative  printing 
is  transferred  to  the  glass  by  a  slight  pressure; 
when  the  paper  is  removed,  the  picture  will 
adhere  to  the  glass,  and  this  is  afterwards  ex- 
posed to  the  fluoric  vapors  in  leaden  troughs. 

2375.  To  Etch  or  Write  on  Glass.    A 
writer  in  Dingler's  "Polytechnisches  Journal" 
recommends  a  solution  of  fluoride  of  ammo- 
nium, which  can  be  used  with  an  ordinary 
quill,  and  on  drying  leaves  a  distinct  line. 

2376.  To  Engrave  on  Glass.     To  en- 
grave on  glass,  fluoric  acid  is  used,  either  in 
the  liquid  state  or  in  vapor.     This  acid  is  kept 
in  metal  bottles,  and  requires  very  careful 
handling.    The  glass  must  be  warmed,  and 
coated  with  wax,  or  engravers'  cement,  and 
the  writing  or  design  traced  through  the  wax 
with  a  pointed  instrument.     The  liquid  fluoric 
acid  is  poured  on  it,  and  left  to  act  on  the  un- 
covered portions  of  the  glass ;  or  pour  some 
of  the  acid  in  a  small  lead  pan,  which  place 
in  a  still  larger  vessel  filled  with  sand ;  heat 
the  sand  and  place  the  glass  object  over  the 
gas  liberated  from  the  heated  acid,  and  it  will 
soon  be  found  to  be  beautifully  etched.     Great 
care  must  be  taken  when  this  is  going  on,  for 
the  gas,  as  well  as  the  acid,  is  of  a  very  dele- 
terious character.    The  same  effect  may  be 
produced  by  the  use  of  fluorspar,  powdered 
and  made  into  a  paste  with  oil  of  vitriol,  laid 
over  the  prepared  surface,  and  covered  with 
lead-foil  or  tea-lead ;   or  bruised  fluorspar  is 
put  in  a  wedgwood  evaporating  basin,  with 
sufficient  oil  of  vitriol  to  form  a  thin  paste, 
and  the  prepared  glass  laid  over  the  basin,  so 
that  the  vapors  may  act  on  the  portions  from 
which  the  wax  has  been  removed. 

2377.  Glass  of  Borax.     Calcine  borax 
with  a  strong  heat  till  the  water  of  crystalli- 
zation is  expelled,  and  the  salt  fuses  into  a 
clear  glass. 


Eliamels.  A  species  of  vitreous 
varnish,  colored  by  means  of  metallic 
oxides  (see  No.  2393)  and  applied  in  a  thin 
stratum  to  brightly  polished  metallic  surfaces 
(copper  or  gold),  on  which  it  is  fused  by  the 
flame  of  a  blowpipe,  or  by  the  heat  of  a  small 
furnace.  The  basis  of  all  enamels  is  a  highly 
transparent  and  fusible  glass,  called  frit,  flux, 
or  paste. 

2379.  Base  Frit  or  Flux  for  Enamels. 
The  precise  qualities  of  the  products  of  the 
following  processes  depend  greatly  upon  the 
duration  and  degree  of  heat  entployed.  By 
increasing  the  quantity  of  sand,  glass,  or  flux, 
the  enamel  is  rendered  more  fusible,  and  the 
opacity  and  whiteness  is  increased  by  the  addi- 


226 


ENAMELS. 


tion  of  oxide  of  tin.  The  use  of  borax  should 
be  avoided,  or  used  very  sparingly,  as  it  is 
apt  to  make  the  enamel  effloresce  and  lose 
color. 

I.  Red  lead,   16  parts;   calcined  borax,  3 
parts;  powdered  flint  glass,  12  parts;  pow- 
dered flints,  4  parts;  fuse  in  a  Hessian  crucible 
for  12  hours,  then  pour  it  out  into  water,  and 
reduce  it  to  a  powder  in  a  biscuit-ware  (unglaz- 
ed  porcelain)  mortar. 

II.  Powdered  flints,   10  parts;    nitre   and 
white  arsenic,  of  each  1  part  as  last. 

III.  Flint  glass,  3  ounces;  red  lead,  1  ounce; 
as  last. 

IT.  Eed  lead,  18  parts ;  borax  (not  calcin- 
ed), 11  parts ;  flint  glass,  16  parts ;  as  last. 

T.  Ffint  glass,  6  parts;  flux  No.  II,  above, 
4  parts;  red  lead,  8  parts;  as  last. 

YI.  Tin,  2  to  5  parts ;  lead,  10  parts ;  cal- 
cine in  an  iron  pot  at  a  dull  cherry-red  heat, 
and  scrape  off  the  oxide  as  it  forms,  observing 
to  obtain  it  quite  tree  from  undecomposed 
metal ;  when  enough  of  the  dross  is  obtained, 
reduce  it  to  fine  powder  by  grinding  and  elu- 
triation  (see  No.  14),  then  mix  4  parts  of  this 
powder  with  an  equal  weight  of  pure  sand  or 
powdered  flints,  and  1  of  sea-salt,  or  other 
alkaline  matter;  fuse  the  mixture  in  a  Hessian 
crucible,  and  proceed  as  before.  The  best 
proportions  of  the  tin  and  lead,  for  all  ordinary 
purposes,  are  about  3  of  the  former  to  10  of 
the  latter.  The  calcined  mixed  oxides  are 
commonly  called  calcine. 

YII.  Lead  and  tin,  equal  parts ;  calcine  as 
above ;  and  take  of  the  mixed  oxides,  or  cal- 
cine (see  preceding  receipt)  and  ground  flints, 
of  each  1  part ;  pure  subcarbonate  of  potash, 

2  parts;  as  before. 

YIII.  Lead,  30  parts;  tin,  33  parts;  calcine 
as  before,  then  mix  50  parts  of  the  calcine 
with  an  equal  weight  of  flints,  in  powder,  and 
1  pound  of  salts  of  tartar ;  as  before.  A  fine 
dead  white  enamel. 

2380.  Black  Enamels.    I.  Pure  clay, 

3  parts ;  protoxide  of  iron,  1  part ;  mix  and 
fuse.    A  fine  black. 

II.  Calcined  iron  (protoxide),  12 parts;  ox- 
ide of  cobalt,  1  part ;  mix,  and  add  an  equal 
weight  of  white  flux.    (See  No.  2396.) 

III.  Peroxide  of  manganese,  3  parts;  zaffre, 
1  part ;  mix  and  add  it  as  required  to  white 
flux.    Zaffre  is  crude  oxide  of  cobalt. 

2381.  Blue  Enamels.      Either  of  the 
white  fluxes  colored  with  oxide  of  cobalt. 

II.  Sand,  red  lead,  and  nitre,  of  each  10 
parts ;  flint  glass  or  ground  flints,  20  parts ; 
oxide  of  cobalt,  1  part,  more  or  less,  the  quan- 
tity depending  on  the  depth  of  color  required. 

2382.  Brown  Enamels.    I.   Red  lead 
and  calcined  iron,  of  each  1  part ;    antimony, 
litharge,  and  sand,  of  each  2  parts;  mix  and 
add  it  in  any  required  proportion  to  a  flux, 
according  to  the  color  desired.    A  little  oxide 
of  cobalt  or  zaffre  is  frequently  added,  and 
alters  the  shade  of  brown. 

II.  Manganese,  5  parts;  red  lead,  16  parts; 
flint  powder,  8  parts ;  mix. 

III.  Manganese,  9  parts ;  red  lead,  34  parts ; 
flint  powder,  16  parts. 

2383.  Green   Enamels.     I.    Flux,  2 
pounds ;  black  oxide  of  copper,  1  ounce ;  red 
oxide  of  iron,  ^  drachm ;  mix. 

II.  As  above,  but  use  the  red  oxide  of  cop- 
per. Less  decisive. 


III.  Copper  dust  and  litharge,  of  each  2 
ounces ;  nitre,  1  ounce  ;  sand,  4  ounces  ;  flux, 
as  much  as  required. 

IY.  Add  oxide  of  chrome  to  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  flux  to  produce  the  desired 
shade ;  when  well  managed  the  color  is  su- 
perb, and  will  stand  a  very  great  heat ;  but  in 
careless  hands,  it  frequently  turns  on  the 
dead-leaf  tinge. 

Y.  Transparent  flux,  5  ounces  ;  black  oxide 
of  copper,  2  scruples ;  oxide  of  chrome,  2 
grains.  Resembles  the  emerald. 

YI.  Mix  blue  and  yellow  enamel  in  the  re- 
quired proportions. 

2384.  Olive  Enamels.     Good  blue  en- 
amel, 2  parts ;  black  and  yellow  enamels,  of 
each  Ipart;  mix.     (Sec  Brown  Enamels.) 

2385.  Orange  Enamels.     I.  Red  lead, 
12  parts ;  red  sulphate  of  iron  and   oxide  of 
antimony,   of  each   1  part ;    flint  powder,  3 
parts;  calcine,  powder,  and  melt  with  flux,  50 
parts. 

II.  Red  lead,  12  parts ;  oxide  of  antimony, 
4  parts ;  flint  powder,  3  parts ;  red  sulphate  of 
iron,  1  part ;  calcine,  then  add  flux,  5  parts  to 
every  2  parts  of  this  mixture. 

2386.  Purple  Enamels.     I.  Flux  col- 
ored with  oxide  of  gold,  purple  precipitate  of 
cassius  (see  Nos.  2720  to  2723),  or  peroxide 
of  manganese. 

II.  Sulphur,  nitre,  vitriol,  antimony,  and 
oxide  of  tin,  of  each  1  pound ;  red  lead,  60 
pounds ;  mix  and  fuse,  cool  and  powder  ;  add 
rose  copper,  19  ounces ;  zaffre,  1  ounce ;  cro- 
cus martis,  1£  ounces;  borax, 3  ounces;  and  1 
pound  of  a  compound  formed  of  gold,  silver, 
and  mercury;  fuse,  stirring  the  melted  mass 
with  a  copper  rod  all  the  time,  then  place  it 
in  crucibles,  and  submit  them  to  the  action  of 
a  reverberatory  furnace  for  24  hours.  This  is 
said  to  be  the  purple  enamel  used  in  the  mo- 
saic pictures  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome. 

2387.  Dark  Bed  Enamel.      Sulphate 
of  iron  (calcined  dark),  1  part;  a  mixture  of 
6  parts  of  flux  IY.   (in  No.  2379)  and  1  of 
colcothar,  3  parts. 

2388.  Light  Bed  Enamel.     Red  sul- 
phate of  iron,  2  parts;  flux  I  (in  No.  2379)  6 
parts ;  white  lead,  3  parts.     Light  red. 

2389.  Bed  Enamel.     Paste  or  flux  col- 
ored with  the  red  or  protoxide  of  copper. 
Should  the  color  pass  into  the  green  or  brown, 
from  the  partial  peroxidizement  of  the  copper, 
from  the  heat  being  raised  too  high,  the  red 
color  may  be  restored  by  the  addition  of  any 
carbonaceous  matter,  as  tallow,  or  charcoal. 

2390.  Beautiful  Bed  Enamel.      The 
most  beautiful  and  costly  red,  inclining  to  the 
purple  tinge,  is  produced  by  tinging  glass  or 
flux  with  the  oxide  or  salts  of  gold,   or  with 
the  purple  precipitate  of  cassius  (see   Nos. 
2720  to  2723),  which  consists  of  gold  and  tin. 
In  the  hands  of  the  skillful  artist,  any  of 
these  substances  produce  shades  of  red  of  the 
most  exquisite  hue ;  when  most  perfect,  the 
enamel  comes  from  the  fire  quite  colorless, 
and  afterwards  receives  its  rich  hue  from  the 
flame  of  the  blow-pipe. 

2391.  Bose  Colored   Enamels.     Pur- 
ple enamel,  or  its  elements,  3  parts ;  flux,  90 
parts;    mix,  and  add  silver-leaf  or  oxide  of 
silver,  1  part  or  less. 

2392.  Transparent  Enamels.     Either 
of  the  first  five  fluxes  in  Xo.  2379. 


GLAZES. 


227 


2393.  Violet  Enamels.     Saline  or  alka- 
line frits  or  fluxes  colored  with  small  quanti- 
ties of  peroxide  of  manganese.     As  the  color 
depends  on  the  metal  being  at  the  maximum 
of  oxidation,  contact  with  all  substances  that 
would  abstract  any  of  its  oxygen  should  be 
avoided.     The  same  remarks  apply  to  other 

>  metallic  oxides. 

2394.  Yellow  Enamels.     Superior  yel- 
low enamels  are  less  easily  produced  than  most 
other  colors ;  they  require  but  little  flux,  and 
that  mostly  of  a  metallic  nature.    I.  Eedlead, 
8  ounces ;  oxide  of  antimony  and  tin,  calcined 
together,  each  1  ounce;   mix,  and  add  flux 
IV.  (in  No.  2379),  15  ounces ;  mix  and  fuse. 
By  varying  the  proportion  of  the  ingredients, 
various  shades  may  be  produced. 

II.  Lead,  tin  ashes,  litharge,  antimony,  and 
sand,  each  1  ounce  ;  nitre,  4  ounces ;  mix,  fuse, 
and  powder,    and   add   the  product  to    any 
quantity  of  flux,   according  to  the  color  re- 
quired. 

III.  Flux  fused  with  oxide  of  lead,   and  a 
little  red  oxide  of  iron. 

IT.  Pure  oxide  of  silver  added  to  the  me- 
tallic fluxes.  The  salts  of  silver  are  also 
used,  but  are  difficult  to  manage.  If  a  thin 
film  of  oxide  of  silver  be  spread  over  the  sur- 
face of  the  enamel  to  be  colored,  exposed  to  a 
moderate  heat,  then  withdrawn,  and  the  film 
of  reduced  silver  on  the  surface  removed,  the 
part  under  will  be  found  tinged  of  a  fine  yel- 
low. 

2395.  Bright  Yellow  Enamel.     White 
oxide  of  antimony,  alum,  and  sal  ammoniac, 
each  1  part ;  pure  carbonate  'of  lead,  1  to  3 
parts,  as  required,  all  in  powder;  mix,  and  ex- 
pose to  a  heat  sufficiently  high  to  decompose 
the  sal  ammoniac. 

2396.  Dead- White  Enamel.  For  white 
enamel,  the  articles  must  be  perfectly  free 
from  foreign  admixture,  as  this  would  impart 
a  color.     When  well  managed,  either  of  the 
following  forms  will  produce  a  paste  that  will 
rival  the  opal.      Calcine  (from  2  parts  of  tin 
and  1  part  of  lead  calcined  together),  1  part ; 
fine   crystal  or  frit,  2  parts;  a  very  trifling 
quantity  of  manganese ;  powder,  mix,  melt, 
and  pour  the  fused  mass  into  clean  water ; 
dry,  powder,  and  again  fuse,  and  repeat  the 
whole  process  3  or  4  times,  observing  to  avoid 
contamination  with  smoke,  dirt,  or  oxide  of 
iron. 

2397.  Fine  White  Enamel.     "Washed 
diaphoretic  antimony,  1  part ;  fine  glass  (per- 
fectly free  from  lead),  3  parts ;  mix,  and  pro- 
ceed as  before. 

2398.  To    Make    Black    Enamel  for 
Gold  or  Silver.     Melt  together  in  a  crucible, 
1  part,  by  weight,  of  silver,  5  parts  copper,  7 
parts  lead,  and  5  parts  muriate  of  ammonia. 
Add  to  this  mixture  twice  its  quantity  of  pul- 
verized sulphur,  covering  the  crucible  imme- 
diately.    Let  it  calcine  until  the   excess   of 
sulphur  has  passed  off.     Then  pound  the  com- 
pound to  coarse  powder  and  make  it  into  a 
paste  with  a  solution  of  muriate  of  ammonia. 
This  is  the  black  enamel  used  for  jewelry. 

2399.  To  Black  Enamel  Gold  or  Sil- 
ver.    Place  some  of  the  enamel  paste,  as  pre- 
pared in  the  preceding  receipt,  on  the  article 
to  be  enameled ;  hold  it  over  a  spirit  lamp 
until  the  enamel  melts  and  flows  upon  it.    It 
may  then  be  smoothed  and  polished. 


2400.      Black  or  Enameled  Copper. 

The  beautiful  enameled  surface  possessed  by 
paintings  on  copper,  may  be  produced,  on  a 
black  ground,  by  the  following  process :  Clean 
the  copper  with  sand  and  sulphuric  acid,  and 
then  apply  the  following  mixture :  2  parts 
white  arsenic,  4  parts  hydrochloric  acid,  1  sul- 
phuric acid,  and  24  water. 

2401.  Enamel  for  Labels,  Signboards, 
etc.     The  fine  enamels  of  trade  are  generally 
prepared   by  fusing    at    high    temperatures, 
silica,  oxide  of  tin,  and  oxide  of  lead,  and 
spreading  the  mixture  over  the  surface  of  a 
sheet  of  copper,  gold,  or  platinum.     The  ob- 
jections to  these  enamels  are,  in  the  first  place 
their  high  cost,  and  secondly  the  impossibility 
of  giving  them  a  perfectly  flat  surface.     Mr. 
B.   Duchemin  has   advantageously    replaced 
them  by  the  following  economical  and  efficient 
compound : 

2402.  Duchemin's  Enamel  for  Labels, 
etc.     Arsenic,  30  parts  by  weight ;  saltpetre, 
30  parts;  silica  (fine  sand), 90  parts;  litharge, 
250  parts.     This  is  spread  on  plates  of  glass 
of  the  required  shape  and  size,  care  being 
taken,  however,  that  the  kind  of  glass  em- 
ployed be  not  inferior  in  point  of  fusibility  to 
the  enamel.     Enameled  glass  prepared  from 
the  above  substances  may  be  drawn  or  written 
on  as  readily  as  if  it  were  paper,  and  in  less 
time  than  one  minute  the  writing  may  be 
rendered  indelible  by  simply  heating  the  plate 
in  a  small  open  furnace  or  muffle.     Drawings, 
autographs,  legal  acts,  public  documents,  his- 
torical tacts  and  dates  of  importance,  labels 
for  horticultural  purposes  or  destined  for  out- 
of-door  exposure,   coffin    plates,   signboards, 
show-case  signs,  etc.,  may  thus  be  cheaply 
made,  which  will  resist  atmospheric  influences 
for  ages.     First-class  photographs,  either  pos- 
itives or  negatives,  may  be  taken  on  such  en- 
amels without  collodion.     (See  Photographs 
on  Enamel.) 

2403.  Enamel  for  Iron  Hollow  Ware. 
The  enamel  of  iron  hollow  ware  is  made  of 
powdered  flints,  ground  with  calcined  borax, 
fine  clay,  and  a  little  feldspar.     This  mixture 
is  made  into  a  paste  with  water  and  brushed 
over  the  pots  after  they  have  been  scoured 
with  diluted  sulphuric  acid  and  rinsed  clean 
with    water.      While    still    moist    they    are 
dusted  over  with  a  glaze  composed  of  feldspar, 
carbonate  of  sodium,  borax,  and  a  little  oxide 
of  tin.    Thus  prepared,  the  pots  are  gradually 
dried  and  then  the  glaze  is  fired  or  fused  under 
a  muffle  at  a  bright  red  heat.     Oxide  of  lead, 
although  increasing  the  fusibility  of  the  glaze, 
impairs  its  efficiency,  as  it  will  not  resist  the 
action  of  acids  in  cooking. 


G1&Z6S.  Glazes  must  be  reduced  to 
a  very  fine  powder.  For  use  they  are 
ground  with  water  to  a  very  thin  paste  or 
smooth  cream,  into  which  the  articles,  pre- 
viously baked  to  the  state  called  "  biscuit," 
are  then  dropped;  they  are  afterwards  exposed 
to  a  sufficient  heat  in  the  kiln  to  fuse  the 
glaze.  Another  method  of  applying  them  is 
to  immerse  the  biscuit  in  water  for  a  minute 
or  so,  and  then  to  sprinkle  the  dry  powder 
over  the  moistened  surface. 


228 


ARTIFICIAL    GEMS. 


2405.  White  Glazing.     Prepare  an  in- 
timate mixture  of  4  parts  massicot  (see  Index), 

2  parts  tin  ashes,  3  of  crystal  glass  fragments, 
and  £  part  sea  salt.     The  mixture  is  suffered 
to  melt  in  earthenware  vessels,  when  the  li- 
quid flux  may  be  made  use  of. 

2406.  Yellow  Glazing.      Take  equal 
parts  of  massicot,  red  lead,  and  sulphuret  of 
antimony.     Calcine  the  mixture  and  reduce  it 
again  to  powder,  add  then  2  parts  of  pure 
sand  and  Ik  parts  of  salt.     Melt  the  whole. 

2407.  Green  Glazing.     Sand,  2  parts; 

3  parts  massicot,  1  part  of  salt  and  copper 
scales,  according  to  the  shade  to  be  produced. 
The  mixture  is  melted  as  directed  above. 

2408.  Violet  Glazing.   Massicot,  1  part ; 
3  parts  sand,  1  of  smalt,  and  £  part  black  oxide 
of  manganese. 

2409.  Blue  Glazing.     White  sand  and 
massicot,  equal  parts,  £  part  of  blue  smalt. 

2410.  Black  Glazing.     Black  oxide  of 
manganese,  2  parts;  1  of  smalt,  1|  of  burned 
quartz,  and  H  massicot. 

2411.  Brown  Glazing.   Take  1  part  bro- 
ken green  bottle  glass,  1  of  manganese,  and  2 
parts  lead  glass. 

2412.  Glaze  without  Lead.     Common 
earthenware  is  glazed  with  a  composition  con- 
taining lead,  on  which  account  it  is  unfit  for 
many  purposes.     The  following  glaze  has  been 
proposed,  among  others,  as  a  substitute :   100 
parts  washed  sand,  80  parts  purified  potash, 
10  of  nitre,  and  20  of  slacked  lime,  all  well 
mixed,  and  heated  in  a  black-lead  crucible,  in 
a  reverberatory  furnace,  till  the  mass  flows 
into  a  clear  glass.    It  is  then  to  be  reduced  to 
powder.     The  goods  to  be^  slightly    burnt, 
dipped  in  water,  and  sprinkled  with  the  pow- 
der. 

2413.  Glaze  for  Porcelain.    Feldspar, 
27  parts;  borax,  18  parts;  Lynn  sand,  4  parts; 
nitre,  3  parts ;  soda,  3  parts ;  Cornwall  china- 
clay,  3  parts.     Melt  together  to  form  a  frit, 
and  reduce  it  to  a  powder  with  3  parts  calcined 
borax. 

2414.  Metallic  Lustres  for  Pottery. 
The  appearance  of  a  lustrous  metallic  surface 
is  given  to  vessels  of  stoneware,  <fcc.,  by  ap- 
plying the  lustre  over  an  easily-fusible  glaze 
to  the  outer  surface  of  the  vessel,  after  which 
adhesure  is  produced  by  exposing  it  to  a  slight 
degree  of  heat.    They  are  then  polished  with 
cotton  or  leather.     The  principal  lustres  are 
given  in  the  following  receipts : 

2415.  Gold  Lustre.     Dissolve  1  drachm 
grain-gold  in  f  ounce  aqua-regia,  add  6  grains 
metallic  tin  to  the  solution.    When  dissolved, 
pour  it  gradually,  with  constant  stirring,  into 
a  mixture  of  i  drachm  balsam  of  sulphur, 
(sec  Index),  and  20  grains  oil  of  turpentine. 
When  the  mass  begins  to  stiffen,  an  additional 
\  drachm  oil  of  turpentine  must  be  added  and 
well  mixed  in.    More  gold  deepens  and  bright- 
ens the  lustre ;  more  tin  turns  it  on  the  violet 
or  purple.     Applied  as  in  No.  2414. 

2416.  Iron  Lustre.     This  is  a  mixture 
of  muriate  of  iron  and  spirit  of  tar.     Used  ac- 
cording to  No.  2414. 

2417.  Platinum  Lustre.     To  bichloride 
of  platinum  (a  solution  of  platina  in  aqua- 
regia),  is  added  drop  by  drop   a  mixture  of 
spirit  of  tar  and  balsam  of  sulphur  in  equal 
proportions,  until  by  a  trial  the  composition  is 
found  to  give  the  required  result.    This  gives 


the  appearance  of  polished  steel.     (See  No 
2414.) 

2418.  Silver  Lustre.  Reduce  ammonio- 
chloride  of  platinum  to  an  impalpable  powder; 
grind  it  to  the  requisite  consistence  with  a 
little  spirit  of  tar,  and  apply  with  a  brush  as 
directed  in  No.  2414. 


Artificial  GremS.  These  consist 
jL"\_of  vitreous  compounds  made  in  imita- 
tion of  gems  and  precious  stones.  Like  en- 
amels, the  artificial  gems  have  for  their  basis 
a  very  fusible,  highly  transparent  and  bril- 
liant dense  glass,  which  is  known  under  the 
name  of  frit,  paste,  strass,  mayence  base, 
&c.,  and  which,  in  its  state  of  greatest  excel- 
lence, consitutes  the  artificial  diamond.  As 
the  strass  or  base  enters  largely  into  the  man- 
ufacture of  imitation  gems,  we  give  the  meth- 
od for  making  it  first.  It  is  absolutely  ne- 
cessary, to  ensure  success  in  the  following  re- 
ceipts, that  the  substances  employed  be  per- 
fectly free  from  impurities,  particularly  those 
of  a  mineral  nature.  Litharge,  oxide  of  lead, 
and  carbonate  of  lead  especially,  must  be 
entirely  free  from  oxide  of  tin,  as  the  smallest 
particle  of  this  imparts  inilkiness  to  the  paste. 
All  the  ingredients  must  be  separately  re- 
duced to  powder;  and,  after  being  mixed, 
sifted  through  lawn.  For  the  finer  kinds  of 
mock  diamonds,  rock  crystal  should  alone  be 
employed;  when  sand  is  used,  the  purest 
white  variety  should  be  selected,  and  be 
washed  thoroughly,  first  with  muriatic  acid 
and  then  with  water,  to  remove  any  traces  of 
earthy  matter.  Much  of  the  minute  detail  in 
making  artificial  gems  can  onlybe  acquired 
by  experience.  The  fusion  must  be  carefully 
conducted  and  continuous,  and  the  meltecl 
mass  allowed  to  cool  very  slowly,  after  having 
been  left  in  the  fire  for  24  to  30  hours  at 
least.  Hessian  crucibles  are  preferred  for  this 
purpose,  and  the  heat  of  an  ordinary  porce- 
lain kiln  is  usually  sufficient;  but  a  small 
wind-furnace,  devoted  exclusively  to  the  pur- 
pose, is  in  general  more  convenient.  It  is 
found  that  the  more  tranquil,  continuous  and 
uniform  the  fusion,  the  denser  and  clearer  is 
the  paste,  and  the  greater  its  refractive  pow- 
er and  beauty.  All  the  colored  vitreous  com- 
pounds noticed  as  enamels  (sec  No.  2378,  <f  c. ) 
may  be  worked  up  in  this  way  into  ornament- 
al stones.  It  may  be  further  observed  that 
the  beauty  of  pastes  or  imitation  gems,  and 
especially  the  brilliancy  of  mock  diamonds,  is 
greatly  dependent  on  the  cutting,  setting  up, 
and  the  skillful  arrangement  of  the  foil  or  tin- 
sel behind  them.  (Sec  ENAMELS,  No.  2378, 
<fc.;  FOILS,  No.  2447,  <J-c.) 

2420.  Diamond   Paste,   or    Strass. 
Litharge,  20  parts;  silica,  12  parts;  nitre  and 
borax,  each  4  parts ;  white  arsenic,  2  parts ;  ' 
powder  mix,   fuse  in  a    crucible,   pour  the 
melted  mass  into  water,  separate  any  reduced 
lead,  and  again  powder  and  re-melt. 

2421.  Mayence  Base,  or  Strass.     Sili- 
ca (quartz,  flint  or  rock  crystal _),  8  ounces; 
salt  of  tartar,  24   ounces ;   mix,  bake,    cool, 
wash  with  dilute  nitric  acid,  a7Kl  afterwards 
with  water;  dry,  powder,  add  12  ounces  pure 
carbonate  of  lead,  and  to  every  12  ounces  of 


ARTIFICIAL    GEMS. 


229 


the  mixture  add  borax,  1  ounce ;  triturate  iu 
a  porcelain  mortar,  melt  in  a  clean  crucible, 
and  pour  the  fused  compound  into  cold  water; 
dry,  powder,  and  repeat  the  process  a  second 
and  a  third  time  in  a  clean  crucible,  observing 
to  separate  any  revived  lead.  To  the  third 
frit  add  nitre,  5  drachms,  and  again  melt. 
Yery  brilliant.  Or:  Carbonate  of  lead,  8  oun- 
ces; powdered  borax,  2  ounces;  rock  crystal, 
3  ounces ;  manganese,  £  grain  ;  mix,  and  pro- 
ceed as  last. 

2432.  Patent  Base  for  Artificial 
Gems.  The  base  of  these  genis,  as  patented 
by  the  Superintendent  of  the  Royal  Porcelain 
"Works  at  Berlin,  is  a  flux  obtained  by  melting 
together  6  drachms  carbonate  of  soda,  2 
drachms  burnt  borax,  1  drachm  saltpetre,  3 
drachms  minium,  and  li  ounces  purest  white 
sand. 

2423.  Loysel's  Strass  or  Paste.     Pure 
silex  (flint  or  quartz),  100  parts;  red  oxide  of 
lead  (minium),  150  parts;  calcined  potash,  30 
to  35  parts ;  calcined  borax,  10  parts ;  arseni- 
ous  acid,  1  part.   This  produces  a  paste  which 
has  great  brilliancy  and  refractive  and  dispers- 
ive powers,  and  also  a  similar  specific  gravity 
to  the  oriental  diamond.    It  fuses  at  a  moder- 
ate heat,  and  acquires  the  greatest  brilliancy 
when  re-melted,  and  kept  for  2  or  3  days  in  a 
fused  state,  in  order  to  expel  the  superabund- 
ant alkali,  and  perfect  the  refining. 

2424.  Fontanier's  Base  for  Artificial 
Gems.     Mix  together  8  ounces  pure  silica 
and  24  ounces  salt  of  tartar ;  bake,  cool,  wash 
with  dilute  nitric  acid,  and  afterwards  with 
water ;  dry,  powder,  add  12  ounces  pure  car- 
bonate of  lead,  and  to  every  12  ounces  of  the 
mixture  add  borax,  1  ounce ;  triturate  in  a 
porcelain  mortar,  melt  in  a  clean  crucible,  and 
pour  the  fused  compound  into  cold  water; 
dry,  powder,  and  repeat  the  process  a  second 
and  a  third  time  in  a  clean  crucible,  observing 
to  separate  any  revived  lead.     To  the  third 
frit   add   nitre,   5  drachms,  and  again  melt. 
The  product  is  perfectly  limpid  and  extremely 
brilliant. 

2425.  Doualt-Wieland's     Paste    or 
Strass.     Rock  crystal,  4056  grains ;  minium, 
6300  grains ;  potash,  2154  grains ;  borax,  276 
grains;    arsenic,   12  grains.     Or:  Sand,  3600 
grains ;  pure  carbonate  of  lead,  8508  grains : 
potash,  1260   grains;  borax,   360   grains;  ar- 
senic, 12  grains. 

2426.  Lancon's  Paste  or  Strass.     Li- 
tharge,   100  grains ;  silex,   75   grains ;  white 
tartar  or  potash,  10  grains. 

2427.  Bed  Cornelian.  Strass,  2  pounds; 
glass  of  antimony,  1  pound ;  calcined  perox- 
ide of  iron  (rouge),  2  ounces ;  manganese,  1 
drachm. 

2428.  White    Cornelian.      Strass,    2 
pounds ;    washed  yellow  ochre,  2  drachms ; 
calcined  bones,  1  ounce. 

2429.  Oriental  Garnet  or  Carbuncle. 
Fuse  512  grains  paste,  256  grains  glass  of  an- 
timony,   2    grains   purple   of  cassius,   and  2 
grains   oxide  of  manganese.     Or:  359  grains 
paste,   178  grains   glass  of  antimony,  and  2 
grains  oxide  of  manganese. 

2430.  Vinegar  Garnet.  Take  2  pounds 
paste,  1  pound  glass  of  antimony,  and  2  ounce 
oxide  of  iron. 

2431.  Opal.     Take  1    ounce  paste,   10 
grains  horn  silver,  2  grains  calcined  magnetic 


ore,  26  grains  calcined  bones.     Or :  10  pounds 
paste,  and  i  pound  calcined  bones. 

2432.  Ruby.     Take  40  parts  paste,  and 
1  part  oxide  of  manganese.     Or:  1  part  topaz 
paste  that  has  turned  out  opaque,  and  8  parts 
strass ;  fuse  for  30  hours,  cool,  and  fuse  small 
pieces  before  a  blow-pipe.  Or:  8  ounces  strass, 
84  grains  each  precipitate  of  cassius  (see  Nos. 
2720  to  2723),  peroxide   of  iron,   golden   sul- 
phuret  of  antimony,  and  manganese  calcined 
with  nitre ;  add  1  ounce  or  more  of  rock  crys- 
tal.    Or :  1  pound  paste  and  3  drachms  pur- 
ple of  cassius.     Or :  4  ounces  paste,  4  ounces 
glass  of  antimony,  and  £  drachm  purple  of 
cassius ;  this  turns  on  the  orange. 

2433.  Sapphire.     Fuse  1152  parts  paste 
and  68  parts  oxide  of  cobalt  for  30  hours  in  a 
luted  Hessian  crucible.     Or:  8  ounces  paste 
and  49  grains  oxide  of  cobalt.    A  little  man- 
ganese may  be  added  to  this  last  receipt. 

2434.  Topaz.      Melt   98  grains    paste 
and  1  grain  calcined  peroxide  of  iron.     Or : 
1008   grains  paste,   43  grains  glass   of  anti- 
mony, and   1   grain  purple   of  cassius.     (See 
Nos.  2720  to  2723.) 

2435.  Turquois.     Take  10  pounds  blue 
paste,  $  pound  calcined  bones. 

2436.  Yellow  Diamond.    Take  1  ounce 
strass,  and  10  grains  glass  of  antimony.     Or: 
1  ounce  strass  and  24  grains  chloride  of  silver. 

2437.  Chrysolite.      Strass,  5  pounds; 
calcined  peroxide  of  iron,  3  to  4  drachms. 

2438.  Eagle  Marine.     Paste  of  strass, 
10  pounds ;  copper  highly  calcined  with  sul- 
phur (copper-stain),  3  ounces;  zaff're,  1  scruple. 

2439.  Emerald.      Lancon's  paste   (sec 
No.  2426),  9612  grains ;  acetate  of  copper,  72 
grains;  peroxide  of  iron,  li  grains.     Or:  Dou- 
ault-~Wieland paste  (see  No.  2425),  4608  grains; 
green  oxide   of  copper,  42  grains;   oxide   of 
chrome,  2  grains.     Or :  Paste,  1  ounce ;  glass 
of  antimony,  20  grains;   oxide  of  cobalt,  3 
grains.     Or:    Paste,  15  ounces;  carbonate  of 
copper,  1  drachin ;  glass  of  antimony,  6  grains. 

2440.  Lapis  Lazuli.     Paste,  10  pounds ; 
calcined  horn  or  bones,  12  ounces ;  oxides  of 
cobalt  and  manganese,  of  each,  \  ounce ;  mix. 
The   golden  veins  are  produced  by  painting 
them  on  with  a  mixture  of  gold  powder, 
borax,  and  gum  water,  and  gently  heating  till 
the  borax  fluxes. 

2441 .  Amethyst.   Take  500  grains  paste, 
3  grains  oxide  of  manganese,  and  2  grains  ox- 
ide of   cobalt.      Or:    4608   grains  paste,   36 
grains  oxide  of  manganese,  24  grains  oxide  of 
cobalt,  and  1   grain  purple  of  cassuis.     (See 
Nos.  2720  to  2723.)     Or:  9216  grains  paste, 
15  to  24  grains  oxide  of  manganese,  and  1 
grain  oxide  of  cobalt. 

2442.  Aqua  Marina,  or  Beryl.     Take 
3200  grains  paste,  20  grains  glass  of  antimony, 
and  1  grain  oxide  of  cobalt.    Or:  2304  grains 
paste,   16  grains   glass  of  antimony,   and   1 
grain  oxide  of  cobalt. 

2443.  Aventurine,  or  Gold  Stone. 
Fuse  10  grains  scales  of  iron,  50  grains  paste, 
and  5.  grains  protoxide  of  copper,  until  the 
copper  is  reduced  to  metallic  form,  then  allow  j 
the  mass  to  cool  very  slowly,  so  that  the 
minute  crystals  of  metal  become  equally  dif- 
fused through  it.  By  substituting  oxide  of 
chromium  for  the  protoxide  of  copper,  the 
stone  appears  brown,  filled  with  minute  gold 
spangles ;  or  by  using  a  less  quantity  of  the 


FOILS. 


chromium,  a  greenish  gray  stone,  filled  with 
green  spangles,  is  produced. 

2444.  Parisian    Diamonds.      These 
beautiful  imitations  of  the  gem  are  merely 
fused  oxide  of  tin.     It  is  a  pity  that  their  bril- 
liancy is  not  permanent,  as  they  become  quite 
dull  in  time. 

2445.  Boettger's  Artificial  Rubies. 
Moisten  recently  precipitated  and  well  washed 
hydrate  of  alumina,  with  a  few  drops  of  neu- 
tral chromate  of  potassa,  and  kneaded  so  that 
the  mass  assumes  a  scarcely  perceptible  tinge; 
then  roll  it  out  into  small  sticks,  about  the 
thickness  of  a  finger,  and  dry  them  slowly, 
filling  up  any  cracks  that  may  occur  in  drying 
with  fresh  hydrate  of  alumina.    When  per- 
fectly dry,  warm  a  stick  a  little,  and  bring  a 
portion  into  the  end  of  the  flame  of  a  com- 
pound (oxyhydrogen)  blow-pipe.     In  a  few 
minutes  several  minute  balls  form,  of  such  in- 
tense hardness  as  to  scratch  quartz,  glass,  and 
granite.     These,  however,  when  cut  and  pol- 
ished, appear  slightly  opaque. 

2446.  Boettger's  Artificial  Emerald. 
This  is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  his  rubies, 
by  employing  nitrate  of  nickel  instead  of  the 
chromate  of  potassa.    The  same  plan,  substi- 
tuting oxide  of  chromium  for  chromate  of 
potassa,  will  produce  gems  of  considerable 
hardness  and  beauty,  though  slightly  opaque; 
which  may,  however,  be  lessened  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a  very  little  silica. 


Foils.  These  are  leaves  of  polished 
metal,  put  under  stones  or  pastes,  to 
heighten  the  effect.  Foils  were  formerly 
made  of  copper,  tinned  copper,  tin,  and  sil- 
vered copper,  but  the  latter  is  used  for  superior 
work  at  the  present  day.  There  are  two 
descriptions  of  foils  employed,  viz.:  white,  for 
diamonds  and  mock  diamonds,  and  colored,  for 
the  colored  gems.  The  latter  are  prepared  by 
varnishing  the  former.  By  their  judicious  use 
the  color  of  a  stone  may  be  often  modified. 
Thus,  by  placing  a  yellow  foil  under  a  green 
stone  that  turns  too  much  on  the  blue,  or  a 
red  one  turning  too  much  on  the  crimson,  the 
hues  will  be  brightened.  By  the  skillful  use 
of  the  following  varnishes,  good  imitations  of 
the  gems  may  be  cheaply  made  from  transpa- 
rent white  glass  or  paste,  and  when  applied  to 
foils  set  under  colored  pastes,  (factitious 
gems),  a  superior  effect  may  be  produced. 
The  colors  must  be  reduced  to  the  finest  state 
possible  by  patient  grinding,  as  without  this 
precaution,  transparent  and  beautiful  shades 
cannot  bo  formed.  The  palest  and  cleanest 
mastich,  and  lac  dissolved  in  alcohol,  and  also 
the  palest  and  quickest  drying  oil,  should 
alone  be  employed,  when  these  substances 
are  ordered.  In  every  case  the  colors  must 
be  laid  on  the  foils  with  a  broad  soft  brush, 
and  the  operation  should  be  performed,  if 
possible,  at  once,  as  no  part  should  be  crossed, 
or  twice  gone  over  while  wet.  •* 

2448.  White  or  Common  Foil.     This 
is  made  by  coating  a  plate  of  copper  with  a 
layer  of  silver,  and  then  rolling  it  into  sheets 
in  the  flatting  mill.     The  foil  is  then  highly 
polished  or  varnished. 

2449.  Colored  Foils.     These  are  made 
by  coloring  the  preceding  foil,  highly  polished, 


with  certain  transparent  solutions  or  varnishes. 
The  following  produce  beautiful  colored  ef- 
fects, when  judiciously  employed. 

2450.  Blue  Foil.     Prussian  blue,  ground 
with  pale,  quick-drying  oil.     Used  to  deepen 
the   color  of  sapphires.     It  may  be   diluted 
with  oil. 

2451.  Green  Foil.     Pale    shellac,   dis- 
solved in  alcohol  (lacquer),  and  tinged  green 
by  dissolving  verdigris  or  acetate  of  copper  in 
it.      Or:     Sesquiferrocyanuret    of    iron    and 
bichromate  of  potassa,  of  each  £  ounce;  grind 
them  with  a  stone  and  muller  to  a  fine  powder, 
add  gum  mastich  (clean  and  also  in  fine  pow- 
der), 2  ounces ;    grind  again,  add  a  little  py- 
roxilic  spirit,  and  again  grind  until  the  mass 
becomes  homogeneous  and  of  a  fine  transpa- 
rent green;    the  beauty  increases  with   the 
length  of  the  grinding.     The  predominance  of 
the  bichromate    turns  it    on  the    yellowish 
green ;  that  of  the  salt  of  iron,  on  the  bluish 
green.      For  use  it   is  to  be  thinned  with 
pyroxilic  spirit.     This  is  used  for  emeralds. 
It  may  be  brightened  by  adding  a  little  yellow 
varnish. 

2452.  Yellow    Foil.      Yarious    shades 
of  yellow  may  be  produced  by  tinging  a  weak 
alcoholic   solution  of  shellac  or  mastich,  by 
digesting  turmeric,  annotto,  saffron,  or  soco- 
trine  aloes  therein.     The  former  is  the  bright- 
est and  most  fit  for  topazes.     Or  :  Digest  hay 
saffron  in  5  or  6  times  its  weight  of  boiling 
water,   until  the  latter  becomes  sufficiently 
colored ;  filter,  and  add  a  little  solution  of  gum 
or  isinglass.     "When  dry,  a  coating  of   spirit 
varnish  should  be  applied. 

2453.  Red  Foil.     Carmine  dissolved  in 
spirits  of  hartshorn,  or  a  weak  solution  of  salt 
of  tartar,  and  gum  added  as  above. 

2454.  Garnet    Foil.      Dragon's  blood 
dissolved  in  rectified  spirit  of  wine.     (See  No. 
2449.) 

2455.  Vinegar  Garnet  Foil.     White 
foil  (see  No.  2449)  varnished  with  orange  lake 
finely  tempered  with  shellac  varnish. 

2456.  Amethyst    Foil.       Lake    and 
Prussian  blue,  ground  fine  in  pale  drying  oil. 

2457.  Eagle   Marine  Foil.     Verdigris 
tempered  in  shellac  varnish  (alcoholic),  with 
a    little    Prussian  blue.     With  this  varnish 
white  foil.     (See  No.  2449.) 

2458.  Ruby    Foil.      Lake  or  carmine, 
ground  in  isinglass.      Or :    Lake   ground  in 
shellac  varnish.     Used  when  the  color  turns 
on  the  purple.     Or :   Bright  lake  ground  in 
oil ;  used  when  the  color  turns  on  the  scarlet 
or  orange.     Either  of  these   are   applied  to" 
white  foil.     (See  No.  2449.) 

2459.  To    Make  an  Imitation    Dia- 
mond more  Brilliant.     Cover  the  inside  of 
the  socket  in  which  the  stone  or  paste  is  to 
be  set  with  tin  foil,  by  means  of  a  little  stiff 
gum   or  size ;   when  dry,  polish  the  surface, . 
heat  the  socket,  fill  it  with  warm  quicksilver, 
let  it  rest  for  2  or  3  minutes,  after  which  pour 
it  but  and  gently  fit  in  the  stone;  lastly,  well 
close  the  work  round  the   stone,  to  prevent 
the   alloy  being  shaken  out.     Or:    Coat  the 
bottom  of  the  stone  with  a  film  of  real  silver, 
by  precipitating  it  from  a  solution  of  the  nitrate 
in  spirits  of  ammonia,  by  means  of  the  oils  of 
cassia  and  cloves.     (See  SILVERING  GLASS.) 
Both  these  methods  vastly  increase  the  bril- 
liancy both  of  real  and  factitious  gerus. 


INKS. 


231 


Writing  inks  might  be  included 
under  the  general  term  of  liquid  coloring 
matters,  were  it  not.  that  they  require  to  have 
the  special  characteristics  of  brilliance,  per- 
manence, and  some  degree  of  indestructibility, 
combined  with  perfect  fluidity,  in  order  to 
fulfill  the  objects  for  which  they  are  generally 
used.  Printing  and  lithographic  and  other 
inks  are  also  included  under  this  heading. 

2461.  Black  Ink.  According  to  the 
most  accurate  experiments  on  the  preparation 
of  black  ink,  it  appears  that  the  quantity  of 
sulphate  of  iron  should  not  exceed  ^  "part  of 
that  of  the  galls,  by  which  an  excess  of  color- 
ing matter,  which  is  necessary  for  the  dura- 
bility of  the  black,  is  preserved  in  the  liquid. 
Gain,  by  shielding  the  writing  from  the  action 
of  ths  air,  tends  to  preserve  the  color,  but  if 
much  is  employed,  the  ink  flows  badly  from 
quill  pens,  and  scarcely  at  all  from  steel  pens. 
The  latter  require  a  very  limpid  ink.  The  ad- 
dition of  sugar  increases  the  flowing  property 
of  ink,  but  makes  it  dry  more  slowly,  and  fre- 
quently passes  into  vinegar,  when  it  acts  in- 
juriously on  the  pen.  Vinegar,  for  a  like 
reason,  is  not,  calculated  for  the  fluid  ingredi- 
ent. The  best  blue  galls  should  alone  be  em- 
ployed in  making  ink.  Sumach,  logwood, 
and  oak  bark,  are  frequently  substituted  for 
galls  in  the  preparation  of  common  ink. 
When  such  is  the  case,  only  about  one-sixth 
or  one-seventh  of  their  weight  of  copperas 
should  be  employed. 

2482.  To  Prevent  Ink  from  Mould- 
ing.    The  addition  of  a  few  bruised  cloves,  or 
a  little  oil  of  cloves,  or,  still  better,  a  few 
drops  of  creosote,  will  effectually  prevent  any 
tendency  to  mouldiness  in  ink. 

2483.  Fine  Black  Ink.     Aleppo  galls 
(well  bruised),  4  ounces  ;   clean  soft  water,  I 
quart ;    macerate  in  a  clean  corked  bottle  for 
10  days,  or  even  longer,  with  frequent  agita- 
tion;  then  add   1J  ounces   gum-arabic   (dis- 
solved in  a  wine-glassful  of  water) ;    lump 
sugar  i   ounce ;    mix  well,   and    afterwards 
further  add  Ik  ounces  sulphate  of  iron  (green 
copperas)  crushed  small,  agitate  occasionally 
for  2  or  3  days,  when  the  ink  may  be  decanted 
for  use ;  but  it  is  better  if  left  to  digest  together 
for  2  or  3  weeks.     "When  time  is  an  object, 
the  whole  of  the  ingredients  may  be  at  once 
put  into  a  bottle,   and    the    latter  agitated 
daily,  until  the  ink  is  made ;  and  boiling  wa- 
ter instead  of  cold  water  may  be  employed. 
The  above  will  make  1  quart  of  beautiful  ink, 
writing  pale  at  first,  but  soon  turning  intense- 
ly black. 

2484.  Cooley's  Superior  Black  Ink. 
Bruised  Aleppo  nut-galls,  12  pounds  ;   water, 
6  gallons ;  boil  in  a  copper  vessel  for  1  hour, 
adding  water  to  make  up  for  the  portion  lost 
by  evaporation;  strain  and  again  boil,  the  galls 
with  water,  4  gallons,  for  A  hour,  strain  off  the 
liquor  and  boil  a  third  time  with  water,  2£ 
gallons,  and  strain ;  mix  the  several  liquors, 
and  while  still  hot  add  green  copperas  (sul- 
phate of  iron)  coarsely  powdered,  4  pounds; 
gum-arabic  bruised  small,  3£  pounds;  agitate 
until     dissolved,  and,    when    settled,    strain 
through  a  hair  sieve,  and  keep  it  in  a  bunged- 
up  cask  for  use.     This  will  produce  12  gallons, 
very  fine  and  durable. 

This  ink,  and  that  in  ISTo.  2463,  are  good. 
Cooler  recommends  them  very  highly.  He 


says  that  they  are  very  durable  and  limpid, 
and  will  bear  dilution  with  nearly  an  equal 
bulk  of  water,  and  still  be  superior  in  quality 
to  ordinary  inks.  Of  the  latter  ink  he  says 
that  he  has  writing  that  was  executed  with 
this  kind  of  ink  upwards  of  60  years  ago, 
which  still  possesses  a  good  color. 

2465.  Black  Ink.    Campeachy  logwood 
chips,  3  pounds ;  bruised  galls, 9 pounds;  boil 
in  water,  and  to  the  mixed  liquors  add  gum- 
arabic  and  green  copperas,  of  each  4  pounds ; 
to  produce  IQk  gallons  of  ink.      Quality  very 
good,  but  inferior  to  the  above. 

2466.  Asiatic  Black  Ink.      Logwood 
shavings  and  powdered  galls,  of  each  2  pounds ; 
green  vitriol,  1  pound  ;  gum,  4  pound ;  pome- 
granate bark,  J  pound ;  water,  1  gallon ;  in- 
fuse 14  days  with  frequent  agitation,  or  boil  as 
directed  in  last  receipt.     This  ink  writes  pale, 
but  flows  well  from  the  pen,  and  soon  turns 
black. 

2467.  Good  Black  Ink.     Bruised  galls, 
2  pounds ;  logwood,  green  copperas,  and  gum, 
of  each  1  pound ;  water,  6  gallons ;  boil  the 
whole  of  the  ingredients  in  the  water  for  lit 
hours,  and  straiu5  gallons.     Good,  but  not  fine. 

2468.  Common  Black  Ink.     Bruised 
galls,  1  pound ;  logwood,  2  pounds ;  common 
gum,  £  pound ;  green  copperas,  |  pound ;  wa- 
ter, 5  gallons  ;  boil.     Common,  but  fit  for  or- 
dinary purposes.    • 

2469.  Exchequer  Ink.     Bruised  galls, 
40  pounds;  gum,  10  pounds;  green  sulphate 
of  iron,   9   pounds ;    soft  water,   45   gallons  ; 
macerate  for  3  weeks,  employing  frequent  agi- 
tation.    This  ink  will  endure  for  centuries. 

2470.  Black  Steel  Pen  Ink.     A  black 
ink,  not  corroding  steel  peris,  and  neutral,  may 
be  prepared  by  digesting  in  an  open  vessel,  42 
ounces  coarsely-powdered  nut-galls,  15  ounces 
gum  Senegal,  18  ounces  sulphate  of  iron  (free 
from  copper),  3  drachms  aqua  ammonia,  24 
ounces  alcohol,  and  IB  quarts  distilled  or  rain 
water.     Continue  the  digestion  until  the  fluid 
has  assumed  a  deep  black  color. 

2471.  Glycerine  Ink.     Take  copperas, 
4   ounces ;  nut-galls,  12   ounces ;  logwood,  8 
ounces ;    vinegar,   8  ounces ;    gum-arabic,  1 
ounce;  glycerine,  -Jounce;  water,  48  ounces; 
all  the  solid  substances  are  to  be  pulverized 
and  boiled  for  an  hour  together ;  they  are  then 
set  to  cool,  strained  through  a  flannel  bag, 
and  after  that  filtered  through  a  folded  filter. 
A  drop  of  oil  of  cloves  is  added,  the  whole 
well  shaken  and  filled  into  bottles.     This  ink 
will  copy  well. 

2472.  Dr.  Tire's  Ink.     For  12  gallons 
of  ink  take  12  pounds  bruised  galls,  5  pounds 
gum,  5  pounds  green  sulphate  of  iron,  and.  12 
gallons  rain  water.     Boil  the  galls  with  9 
gallons  of  the  water  for  3  hours,  adding  fresh 
water  to  supply  that  lost  in  vapor ;  let  the 
decoction  settle,  and  draw  off  the  clear  liquor. 
Add  to  it  the  gum  previously  dissolved  in  Ik 
gallons  of  water ;  dissolve  the  green  vitriol 
separately  inl£  gallons  of  water,  and  mix  the 
whole. 

2473.  Japan   Ink.      Aleppo    galls,  £ 
pound ;  logwood  chips  and  copperas,   each  4 
ounces ;     gum-arabic,    3    ounces ;     stigar,    1 
ounce ;  blue  vitriol  (sulphate  of  copper),  and 
sugar  candy,  each  k  ounce.    Boil  the  galls  and 
logwood  in  6  quarts  water  till  reduced  one-half; 
strain ;  add  the  other  ingredient^.      Stir  until 


INKS. 


dissolved.  Clear  and  bottle.  If  it  does  not 
shine  enough,  add  more  gum ;  also  a  few 
cloves,  to  prevent  mould. 

2474.  Ink  Powder.     For  an  ink  pow- 
der take  1  pound  nut-galls,  7  ounces  copperas, 
and  7  ounces  gum-arabic.     Pulverize  and  mix. 
This  amount  of  ink  powder  will  make  1  gal- 
lon of  good  black  ink.     Two  or  three  pow- 
dered cloves  should  be  mixed  with  each  pound 
of  powder,  to  prevent  moulding. 

2475.  Permanence  of  Ink.    The  great 
difficulty  with  all  iron  inks  is  the  precipitation 
which  will  take  place,  after  a  longer  or  shorter 
time,  and  which  manufacturers  have  tried  to 
obviate  by  substituting  other  materials.    All 
inks,  however,  the  basis  of  which  is  not  tan- 
nate  and  gallate  of  iron,  are  not  black  imme- 
diately, and  consequently  not  so  agreeable  to 
the  eye  when  using  them.     The  alizarine  or 
rather  indigo  inks  have  a  greenish,  the  chromi- 
um inks  a  reddish  hue,  and  are  not  better 
adapted  to  withstand  chemical  agents  than 
iron  inks  are. 

2476.  To  Keep  Ink  from  Thickening. 
The  only  way  to  keep  writing  ink  thin  with 
which  we  are  acquainted  is  to  protect  it  from 
the  atmosphere.     The  air  not  only  evaporates 
it,  but  oxidizes  it  rvnd  renders  it  thick.    Those 
ink-stands  whichhave  a  tapering  funnel  in  the 
mouth  will  preserve  the  ink  in  its  normal 
state  much  longer  than  the  ordinary  kind,  be- 
cause less  of  the  surface  is  exposed. 

2477.  "Writing  Fluids.     The  very  gen- 
eral use  of  steel  pens  has  caused  a  correspond- 
ing demand  for  easy  flowing  inks,  many  of 
which  have  been  of  late  years  introduced  un- 
der the  title  of  "writing  fluids,"  or  "steel 
pen  ink."      These  are  mostly  prepared  from 
galls  in  the  preceding  manner,  but  a  less 
quantity    of    gum    is  employed.     The   blue 
writing  fluids,  which   either  maintain  their 
color  or  turn  black  by  exposure,  are  prepared 
from  the  ferrocyanide  of  potassium  (prussiate 
of  potassa),  or  from  indigo. 

2478.  Beautiful  Blue  "Writing  Fluid. 
Dissolve  basic    or  soluble   Prussian  blue  in 
pure    water.      This  is  the  most  permauent 
and  beautiful  ink  known.     It  is  not  affected 
by  the  addition  of  alcohol,  but  is  immediately 
precipitated  by  saline  matter.    The  precipi- 
tate, however,  still  possesses  the  property  of 
dissolving  in  pure  water. 

2479.  To  Test  Prussian  Blue.    Pure 
Prussian  blue  feels  light  in  the  hand ;  adheres 
to  the  tongue ;  has  a  lively  dark  blue  color, 
and  gives  a  smooth  deep  trace.    It  should  not 
effervesce  with  acids,   as  when  adulterated 
with  chalk;  nor  become  pasty  with  boiling 
water,    as    when    adulterated    with    starch. 
Prussian  blue,  rendered  inferior  in  its  color  by 
an  admixture  of  free  oxide  of  iron,  may  be  im- 
proved by  digestion  in  dilute  sulphuric  or  mu- 
riatic acid,  washing  and  drying.     Its  relative 
richness  in  the  real  ferroprussiate  of  iron  may 
be  estimated  by  the  quantity  of  potash  or 
soda  which  a  given  quantity  of  it  requires  to 
destroy  its  blue  color. 

2480.  Blue  "Writing  Fluid.     Dissolve 
the  soluble  ferrocyanide  of  potassium  and 
iron  in  pure  water.     Kesembles  ]STo.  2478,  but 
is  precipitated  from  its  solution  by  alcohol. 

2481.  Stephens'  Patent  Blue  Ink. 
Mr.  Stephens?  process.  Take  Prussian  blue, 
(either  of  commerce,  or  the  pure  chemical 


combination  of  sesquioxide  of  iron  with  ferro- 
cyanide of  potassium),  put  it  into  any  earthen 
vessel,  and  pour  upon  it  as  much  strong 
hydrochloric,  nitric,  or  sulphuric  acid  as  will 
cover  it  (if  sulphuric  acid  is  used  it  must  bo 
diluted  with  an  equal  bulk  of  water) ;  after 
standing  48  hours  or  more,  add  plenty  of  wa- 
ter, stirring  it  thoroughly,  to  remove  the  salts 
of  iron;  let  it  stand  till  all  color  has  subsided, 
then  draw  off  the  clear  liquid  with  a  syphon  ; 
add  fresh  water,  and  repeat  the  washing  until 
feiTocyauide  of  potassium  ceases  to  produce  a 
blue  precipitate,  and  the  water  drawn  off 
ceases  to  redden  blue  litmus  paper,  then  filter 
the  product.  This  treatment  extracts  much 
of  the  iron  from  the  Prussian  blue,  and  takes 
away  its  liability  to  precipitate  by  longstand- 
ing. Next  add  and  carefully  mix  1  part 
oxalic  acid  to  every  6  parts  of  Prussian  blue; 
then  dilute,  by  degrees,  with  water  sufficient 
to  make  the  blue  ink  any  desired  tint.  The 
influences  of  air  and  dampness  have  a  ten- 
dency to  destroy  the  color  of  manuscript 
written  with  black  ink,  while  the  same  influ- 
ences tend  to  deepen  and  increase  the  color 
of  the  Prussian  blue  ink,  This  ink  is  only 
affected  by  continued  exposure  to  light,  which 
makes  it  fade  in  some  degree;  but  it  com- 
pletely recovers  its  original  depth  of  color  by 
being  put  in  a  dark  place. 

2482.  Mohr's    Blue  "Writing  Fluid. 
Triturate  to  a  perfectly  smooth  paste,  6  parts 
pure  Prussian  blue,  and  1  part  oxalic  acid, 
with  a  little  water;  then  dilute  with  sufficient 
soft  water  to  make  it  fluid. 

2483.  Bunge's  Black  "Writing  Fluid. 
This  is  a  cheap  and  good  ink,  and  resists  ordi- 
nary destructive  agents  well.     It  is  perfectly 
liquid,  scarcely  thickens  by  age,  deposits  no 
sediment,  and   does  not  corrode  steel  pens. 
Digest  4  pound  logwood  in  fine'chips  for  12 
hours  in  3  pints  boiling  water;  then  simmer 
down  gently  to  1  quart,  carefully  avoiding 
dust,  grease,  and  smoke.     "When  cold,  decant 
the  decoction,  and  dissolve  in  it  by  agitation 
20  grains  yellow  chromate  of  potash ;  it  will 
then  be  fit  for  use. 

2484.  Shellac  Ink,  or  Coathupe's 
"Writing  Fluid.  To  18  ounces  water  add  1 
ounce  powdered  borax  and  2  ounces  bruised 
shellac,  and  boil  them  iu  a  covered  vessel, 
stirring  them  occasionally  till  dissolved.  Fil- 
ter, when  cold,  through  coarse  filtering  paper; 
add  1  ounce  mucilage;  boil  for  a  few  minutes, 
adding  sufficient  finely-powdered  indigo  and 
lampblack  to  color  it.  Leave  the  mixture 
for  2  or  3  hours  for  the  coarser  particles  to 
subside ;  pour  it  off  from  the  dregs,  and  bottle 
it  for  use. 

2485.  Arnold's  "Writing  Fluid.     Ar- 
nold's writing  fluid  is  a  mixture  of  sulphate 
of  indigo  and  ordinary  ink.     It  flows  freely 
from  the  pen  and  at  last  becomes  very  black. 
On  account  of  the  large  quantity  of  acid  it 
contains,  it  is  very  destructive  to  steel  pens, 
and  for  this  evil  we 'know  of  no  cure. 

2486.  Blue  Fluid  for  Making  Blue- 
Black  "Writing  Ink.     Prussian  blue  in  fine 
powder,  1  ounce  placed  iu  a  common  phial, 
and  concentrated  hydrochloric  acid,  2  ounces, 
poured  over  it.     Effervescence  ensues,  aud  the 
mixture  soon  assumes   the  consistence  of  a 
thin  paste.     After  24  hours  it  may  bo  diluted 
with  8  or  9  ounces  of  water,  aud  preserved  in 


INKS. 


233 


a  glass  bottle.  The  intensity  of  this  color 
may  be  lessened  by  water.  It  forms  an  excel- 
lent blue  writing  fluid. 

2487.  Fine  Writing  Fluid.  Dissolve 
ceruleo- sulphate  of  potassa  or  ammonia  (sol- 
uble indigo)  in  hot  water,  and  when  cold 
decant  the  clear.  It  is  an  intense  blue,  and 
dries  nearly  black;  is  perfectly  incorrosive, 
and  very  permanent  and  easy  flowing.  It 
may  be  thickened  with  gum  water,  or  diluted 
with  pure  rain  water,  as  required. 

2498.  Beade's  Patent  Blue  Writing 
Fluid.     Prepare  a  solution  of  iodide  of  iron, 
from  iodine,  iron,  and  water ;  add  to  the  solu- 
tion half  as  much  iodine  as  first  used.     Pour 
this  solution  into  a   semi-saturated  solution 
of  ferroprussiate  of  potash,  containing  nearly 
as  much  of  the  salt  as  the  whole  weight  of 
iodine.     Collect  the  precipitate,  wash  it,  and 
finally  dissolve  it  in  water,  to  form  the  blue 
ink.    The  solution  from  which  the  precipitate 
is  separated,  evaporated  to  dryness,  and  the 
residue  fused,   re-dissolved,  and  crystallized, 
yields  pure  iodide  of  potassa. 

2439.  Indelible  Writing  Fluid.  To 
good  gall  ink,  add  a  strong  solution  of  fine 
soluble  Prussian  blue  in  distilled  water.  This 
addition  makes  the  ink  which  was  previously 
proof  against  alkalies,  equally  proof  against 
acids,  aud  forms  a  writing  fluid  which  cannot 
be  erased  from  paper  by  any  common  method 
of  fraudulent  obliteration  without  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  paper.  This  ink  writes  greenish 
blue,  but  afterwards  turns  intensely  black. 

2499.  Precautions  in  Making  Wri- 
ting Fluids.     All  the  preceding  receipts  for 
writing    fluids,    under    proper    management, 
produce   excellent   products.     Care  must  be 
taken  in  all  cases  that  the  ingredients  be  pure, 
and  unless  this  precaution  is  attended  to,  suc- 
cess is  doubtful.     Either  of  the  preceding  blue 
fluids  may  be  used  as  indelible  ink  to  mark 
linen,  and  will  be  found  very  permanent,  pro- 
vided the   part  be  first  moistened  with  alum 
water  and  dried. 

2491.  Gold  Ink.     Gold  ink  is  prepared 
in  the  following  way :    Genuine  gold  leaf  is 
rubbed   with   honey  on  a  plate  of  agate  or 
ground  glass  by  means  of  a  flat  pestle,  until 
the  whole  presents  a  uniform  mass,  in  which 
no  distinct  particles  of  gold  can  be  recognized. 
(See  No.   2517.)     This  mass  is  carefully  re- 
move! into  a  vessel  with  water,  which  will 
dissolve  the  honey,  and  leave  the  gold  in  an 
extremely    disintegrated   state    behind.     The 
water  has,  according  to  the  size  of  the  vessel, 
to  be  removed  twice  or  three  times,  when  all 
the  saccharine  matter  will  have  been  washed 
away.     The    remaining   gold  is  then  mixed 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  a  solution  of  gum- 
arabic,    shaken    well,    and  is   ready   for  use. 
(Sse  Nr).  2518.)     The  writing  is  to  be  rubbed, 
after  drying,  with  a  flat  piece  of  ivory,  when 
it  will  present  the  lustre  of  pure  gold. 

2492.  Silver  Ink.     Silver  ink  is  prepar- 
e:l  in  the  same   way,  from  silver  leaf,  as  the 
g->lil  in  last  receipt. 

2493.  Gold  Labels  on  Glass  Bottles. 
Tn:3  finely   divided   gold,  prepared  as  in  No. 
2491,  is  distributed  in  a  solution  of  gum  damar 
in  naphtha,  and  the  writing  is  to  be  done  with 
this  fluid   by  means  of  a  brush.     If  the  solu- 
tion should  become  too  thick  in  course  of  time, 
a  little   naphtha  is  added  and  well  shaken, 


when  the  gold  paint  will  be  ready  for  use 
again.  The  gum  damar  in  drying  will  cover 
the  written  lines  with  a  kind  of  varnish  that 
will  protect  the  gold  from  the  action  of  acids 
or  alkalies. 

2494.  Purple  Ink,  or  King  of  Purples. 
Infuse  12  pounds  campeachy  logwood  in  12 
gallons  water;   provide  a  funnel  at  the  bot- 
tom of  which  a  sponge  has  been  placed ;  pour 
the  infusion  through  a  strainer  made  of  coarse 
flannel  into  the  funnel,  and  thence  on  to  1 
pound  hydrate  or  acetate  of  copper  (verdigris) ; 
then  add  immediately  14  pounds  alum ;  and 
for  each  17  gallons  of  the  liquid,  add  4  pounds 
gum-arabic  or  Senegal ;  let  these  remain  3  or 
4  days  and  a  beautiful  purple  will  be  produced. 

2495.  Green  Ink.     Boil  2  parts  acetate 
of  copper  and  1  part  bitartrate  of  potassa  in  8 

Earts  water,  until  the  solution  is  reduced  to 
alf  the  bulk ;    filter  through  a  cloth,  and, 
when  cool,  bottle. 

2496.  Green  Ink.     Dissolve  180  grains 
bichromate  of  potassa  in  1  fluid  ounce  of  wa- 
ter ;  add,  while  warm,  £  ounce  spirit  of  wine  ; 
then  decompose  the  mixture  with  concentra- 
ted sulphuric  acid,  until  it  assumes  a  brown 
color ;  evaporate  this  liquor  until  its  quantity 
is  reduced  to  one-half;  dilute  it  with  2  ounces 
distilled  water ;    filter  it,  add  i  ounce  alcohol, 
followed  by  a  few  drops  strong  sulphuric  acid ; 
it  is  now  allowed  to  rest,  and  after  a  time  it 
assumes  a  beautiful  green  color.     After  the 
addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  gum-arabic,  it 
is  ready  for  use. 

2497.  Violet.  Magenta,  and  Solferino 
Ink.     Inks  of  these,  and  such  other  bright 
aniline  colors  may  be  made  as  follows  :  Mix 

1  drachm  of  the  proper  aniline  color  with  li 
ounces  alcohol  (see  No.  2578)  in  a  glass  or  en- 
ameled iron  vessel ;  let  it  stand  for  3  hours. 
Then  add  13  ounces  distilled  water,  and  subject 
the  whole  to  a  gentle  heat  until  the  alcohol  has 
evaporated,  that  is,  until  no  odor  of  alcohol 
is  perceptible;  then  add 4  drachms  gum-arabic 
dissolved  in  3  ounces  water.    Mix  and  strain. 
As   the   aniline   colors   of  commerce  vary  a 
great  deal  in  quality,  the  amount  of  dilution 
must   vary  with   the   sample   used,  and  the 
shade  determined  by  trial. 

2498.  Heusler's    Bed    Ink.      Take  2 
ounces  best  Brazil  wood,  ^  ounce  pulverized 
alum,  k  ounce  crystals  of  bitartrate  of  potassa, 
and  16  ounces  distilled  water ;  boil  down  to 
one  half,  and  strain.     Then  dissolve  in  it  i 
ounce  gum-arabic,  and  add  1£  drachms  coch- 
ineal dissolved  in  1^  ounces  alcohol  of  spe- 
cific gravity  .839. 

2499.  Brilliant  Bed  Ink.    Brazil  wood, 

2  ounces ;    muriate  of  tin,  i  drachm ;   gum- 
arabic,  1  drachm ;  boil  down  in  32  ounces  wa- 
ter to  one  half,  and  strain. 

2500.  Good  Bed  Ink.     Ground  Brazil 
wood,  8  ounces  ;  vinegar,  10  pints ;  macerate 
for  4  or  5  days ;  boil  in  a  tinned-copper  vessel 
to  one  half,  then  add  roche  alum,  8  ounces; 
and  gum,  3  ounces ;  dissolve. 

2501.  Buchner's  Carmine  Ink.     Pure 
carmine,    12  grains ;    water  of   ammonia,   3 
ounces ;   dissolve,  then  add  powdered  gum,  18 
grains ;  &  drachm  of  powdered  drop  lake  may 
be  substituted  for  the  carmine  where  expense 
is  an  object.   This  makes  a  superb  carmine  ink. 

2502.  Fine    Bed    Ink.      Cochineal,  in 
powder,  1  ounce;  hot  water,  ^  pint;  digest, 


234: 


INKS. 


and  when  quite  cold,  add  spirit  of  hartshorn, 
I  pint ;  or  liquor  of  ammonia,  1  ounce  ;  dilute 
with  3  or  4  ounces  of  water ;  macerate  for  a 
few  days  longer,  then  decant  the  clear.  The 
color  of  this  is  very  fine. 

2503.  Redwood's  Bed  Ink.     Guaran- 
cine  and  liquor  of  ammonia,  of  each  1  ounce: 
distilled  water  (cold),   1  pint;    triturate  to- 
gether in  a  mortar,  filter,  and  dissolve  in  the 
solution  gum-arabic  i  ounce.     (Cooley.) 

2504.  To    Restore  Writing   Effaced 
with.  Chlorine.     Expose  it  to  the  vapor  of 
sulphuret  of  ammonia,  or  dip  it  into  a  solution 
of  the   sulphuret.     Or:   Ferrocyanide  of  po- 
tassa,  5  parts ;  water,  85  parts.    Dissolve,  and 
immerse  the  paper  in  the  fluid,  then  slightly 
acidulate  the  solution  with  sulphuric  or  hydro- 
chloric acid.     The  method  found  to  answer 
best  has  been  to  spread  the  ferrocyanide  thin 
with  a  feather  or  a  bit  of  stick  cut  to  a  blunt 
point.    Though  the  ferrocyanide  should  occa- 
sion no  sensible  change  of  color,  yet  the  mo- 
ment the  acid  comes  upon  it,  every  trace  of  a 
letter  turns  at  once  to  a  fine  blue,  which  soon 
acquires  its  full  intensity,  and  is  beyond  com- 
parison stronger  than  the  color  of  the  original 
trace.    If,  then,  the  corner  of  a  bit  of  blotting 
paper   be  carefully  and  dexterously  applied 
near  the  letters,  so  as  to  imbibe  the  superflu- 
ous liquor,  the  staining  of  the  parchment  may 
be  in  a  great  measure  avoided ;  for  it  is  this 
superfluous  liquor  which,  absorbing  part  of 
the  coloring  matters  from  the  letters,  becomes 
a  dye  to  whatever  it  touches.     Care  must  be 
taken  not  to  bring  the  blotting-paper  in  con- 
tact with  the  letters,   because  the   coloring 
matter  is  soft  whilst  wet,  and  may  easily  be 
rubbed  off.    The  acid  chiefly  employed  is  the 
muriatic;   but  both  the  sulphuric  and  nitric 
succeed  very  well.     They  should  be  so  far 
diluted  as  not  to  be  liable  to  corrode  the 

Sarchment,  after  which  the  degree  of  strength 
oes  not  seem  to  be  a  matter  of  much  nicety. 

2505.  To  make  New  Writing  Look 
Old.     Take  1  drachm  saffron,  and  infuse  it 
into  k  pint  ink,  and  warm  it  over  a  gentle  fire, 
and  it  will  cause  whatever  is  written  with  it 
to  turn  yellow,  and  appear  as  if  of  many 
years'  standing. 

2506.  To  Write  on  Greasy  Paper  or 
Parchment.     Put  to  a  bullock's  gall  1  hand- 
ful of  salt,  and  J  pint  vinegar,  stir  it  until  it  is 
mixed  well ;  when  the  paper  or  parchment  is 
greasy,  put  1  drop  of  the  gall  into  the  ink, 
and  the  difficulty  will  be  instantly  obviated. 

2507.  To  Remove  Ink  Blotches  from 
Writing.      "When  ink  blotches  have    been 
formed   over  writing  which  it  is  desired  to 
decipher,   we  are  advised   to  brush  off"  the 
spot  carefully  with  a  weak  solution  of  oxalic 
acid  by  means  of  a  camel's-hair  pencil.     In 
this  way  layer  after  layer  of  the  superincum- 
bent ink   will  be   removed,  and   finally  the 
writing  itself    will,   in  most  cases,  come  to 
view.     This  is  especially  possible  where  some 
considerable  interval  has  elapsed  between  the 
two  applications  of  ink.     As  soon  as  the  let- 
ters are  visible  the  brushing  should  be  con- 
tinued for  a  time  with  clean  water,  so  as  to 
arrest  the  tendency  of  the  acid  solution  to 
make  a  further  change  in  the  ink. 

2508.  Redwood's  Indelible  Marking 
Ink.     Dissolve  1  ounce  nitrate  of  silver  and 
1£  ounces  crystallized  carbonate  of  soda  in 


separate  portions  of  distilled  water,  and  mix 
the  solutions;  collect  the  resulting  precipitate 
on  a  filter,  wash  it  thoroughly  with  distilled 
water,  and  introduce  it,  while  still  moist,  into 
a  wedgwood-ware  mortar;  add  8  scruples 
tartaric  acid,  and  triturate  the  whole  until  ef- 
fervescence has  ceased ;  next  add  sufficient 
ammonia  to  dissolve  the  tartrate  of  silver; 
mix  in  4  fluid  drachms  archil,  4  drachms 
white  sugar,  and  12  drachms  finely-powdered 
gum-arabic;  then  add  sufficient  distilled  water 
to  make  6  ounces  of  the  mixture.  This  ink 
fulfills  all  the  conditions  that  a  marking  ink 
should  possess  :  It  flows  freely  from  the  pen 
without  running  or  blotting ;  it  does  not  re- 
quire a  very  stronger  long  continued  heat  to 
develop  it;  when  developed  it  is  perfectly 
black ;  and  it  does  not  injure  the  texture  of  the 
finest  fabric. 

2509.  Indelible  Ink.     The  linen  is  first 
moistened  with   a  fluid  consisting  of  a  mix- 
ture of  2  parts  carbonate  of  soda  in  crystals, 
2  parts  gum-arabic,  8  parts  water,  and  then 
dried.    When  quite  dry,  it  is  rubbed  with  a 
glass  or  smooth  pebble  to  render  it  as  smooth 
as  possible,  so  that  it  may  be  easier  to  write 
upon.     The  composition  of  the  ink  itself  is  as 
follows  :     If  parts  nitrate  of  silver,  16  parts 
distilled  water,  2  parts  gum-arabic,  and  £  part 
sap  green.     The  nitrate  of  silver  is  first  dis- 
solved in  the  distilled  water,  and  the  gum-ara- 
bic and  sap  green  are  subsquently  added.     It 
is  necessary  to  write  with  a  quill  peri,  all  me- 
tallic pens  except  gold  ones  decomposing  the 
ink.    It  is  a  good  plan  to  trace  the  letters  on 
the  linen  with  a  pencil  before  writing  them. 
This  and  the  four  following  receipts  are  by 
Dr.  Eeiman,  who  says  that  they  have  all  been 
thoroughly  well  tried,  and  found  effectual. 

2510.  Fine  Marking   Ink.      Marking 
linen  is  most  conveniently  effected  by  using 
a  small  stiff  brush  and  a  small  copper  plate 
with  perforations  corresponding  to  the  letters 
required.     This  stencil  plate  is  laid  upon  the 
linen,  and  the  ink  is  rubbed  into  the  cut-out 
spaces  with  the  brush.     The  following  ink  is 
of  service  for  marking  linen  with   a  stencil 
plate :   2  parts  nitrate  of  silver,  4  parts  dis- 
tilled water,   2£  parts  gum-arabic,   3    parts 
carbonate  of  soda  crystals,  5  parts  liquid  am- 
monia.   The  best  way  to  prepare  the  ink  is  to 
first  dissolve  the  nitrate  of  silver  in  the  liquid 
ammonia,  and  the  gum-arabic  and  soda  in  the 
distilled  water.     The  two  solutions  are  then 
mixed  together  and  slightly  warmed,  when 
the  whole  mixture  becomes  brown.     A  few 
drops  of  a  solution  of  magenta  makes  the  ink 
somewhat  more  distinct.     When  this  method 
is  used,  the  linen  requires  no  previous  pre- 
paration. 

2511.  Aniline  Marking  Ink.   Dissolve 
8-J-   grains  bichloride   of  copper  in  30  grains 
distilled  water,  then  add  10  grains  common 
salt,  and  9-J-  grains  liquid  ammonia.     A  solu- 
tion of.  30  grains  hydrochlorate  of  aniline  in 
20  grains  distilled  water  is  then  added  to  20 
grains  of  a  solution  of  gum-arabic   (contain- 
ing 2  parts  water,   1  part   gum-arabic)/  and 
lastly  10  grains  of  glycerine.     4  parts  of  the 
aniline  solution  thus  prepared  are  mixed  with 
1   part  of  the   copper   solution.     The   liquid 
which  results  has  a   green   appearance,  and 
may  be  at  once  employed  for  marking  linen, 
since  it  invariably  becomes  black  after  a  few 


INKS. 


235 


days.  A  steel  pen  may  be  employed  as  well 
as  a  quill.  If  it  is  desirable  not  to  wait  so 
long  for  the  appearance  of  the  black  color,  a 
hot  iron  may  be  passed  over  the  writing  when 
the  ink  is  dry,  or  the  linen  may  be  held  over 
the  flame  of  a  spirit  lamp,  or  over  a  hot  plate, 
or  hot  water,  when  the  black  tint  will  readily 
appear.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  put  the  linen, 
when  marked,  into  a  tepid  solution  of  soap, 
which  has  the  effect  of  bringing  out  a  fine 
bluish  tint.  The  ink  must  be  so  limpid  that 
it  is  able  to  permeate  the  tissue  of  the  linen, 
so  that  the  marks  appear  on  both  sides.  It  is 
advisable  to  mix  the  solutions  together,  only 
when  the  ink  has  to  be  used.  It  is  perfectly 
indelible,  and  so  easy  to  write  with  that  the 
finest  devices  may  be  drawn  with  it.  This 
ink  has  the  advantage  of  being  cheaper  than 
the  ink  prepared  from  nitrate  of  silver.  It 
has  also  another  advantage  over  the  latter 
salt,  viz. :  that  it  is  chemically  indelible. 

2512.  Purple  Marking  Ink.    A  purple 
marking  ink  can  be  prepared  by  mixing  1  part 
bichloride  of  platinum  with  16  parts  distilled 
water.     The  place  where  the  letters  have  to  be 
written  must  be  moistened  with  a  solution  of 
3  parts  carbonate  of  soda,  3  parts  gum-arabic, 
and  12  parts  water.     The  spot  is  then  dried 
and  made  smooth.     After  the  letters  have 
been  written  with  the  platinum  ink  and  be- 
come dry,  the  linen  is  moistened  with  a  solu- 
tion of  1  part  chloride  of  tin  in  4  parts  distilled 
water,  when  an  intense  and  beautiful  purple- 
red  color  makes  its  appearance. 

2513.  Cheap  Brown  Marking    Ink. 
A  very  cheap  brown  marking  ink  may  be  pre- 
pared from  4  parts  acetate  of  manganese  dis- 
solved in  12  parts  water.     The  place  on  the 
linen  where  the  marks  have  to  be  made  must 
be  previously  moistened  with  the  following 
solution :  1  part  yellow  prussiate  of  potash, 
h  part  gum-arabic,  3  parts  water.     The  linen, 
having  been  saturated  with  the  above  solution, 
is  dried,   and  afterwards  marked    with   the 
manganese  solution.     On  the  letters  becoming 
dry,  the  following  solution  is  spread  over  the 
spot  with  a  brush  :  4  parts  carbonate  of  pot- 
ash, 10  parts  water.     The  letters  then  become 
brown,  and  their  color  cannot  be  removed  by 
alkalies,  nor  by  acids,  with  the  exception  of 
dilute  hydrochloric  acid. 

2514.  Carbon  Ink.    Genuine  Indian  ink 
rubbed  down  with  good  black  ink  until  it  will 
flow  easily  from  a  pen.     This  ink  resists  chlor- 
ine, and  oxalic  acid. 

2515.  Indian  or  Chinese  Ink.     The 
pure  article  can  only  be  obtained  from  China. 
A  good  imitation  may  be  made  with  ivory 
black,  ground  to  an  impalpable  powder,  made 
into   a  paste  with  weak   gum-arabic  water, 
perfumed  with  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  niusk 
and  half  as  much  essence  of  ambergris,  and 
then  formed  into  cakes.     (See  No.  2716.) 

2516.  Perpetual  Ink  for  Tombstones, 
&C.     Equal  parts  of  Trinidad  asphaltum  and 
oil  of  turpentine.     Use  in  a  melted  state  to 
fill  in  the  letters  and  devices  on  tombstones,  &c. 
"Without  actual  violence  it  will  last  as  long  as 
the  stone. 

2517.  To  Pulverize  Gold  and  Silver 
Leaf.     This  is  effected  by  grinding  upon  a 
porphyry  slab,  with  a  muller,  gold  or  silver' 
leaves  with  white  honey,  until  they  are  re- 
duced to  the  finest  possible  state  of  division. 


Then  wash  the  honey  thoroughly  from  the 
powdered  metal  and  mix  with  gum  water. 
(Sec  also  No.  25.) 

2518.  Liquid  Gold,  for  Vellum,  &c. 
Take  gold  leaf  and  grind  it  with  gum  water; 
then  add  a  small  quantity  of  bichloride  of 
mercury,  and  bottle  for  use. 

2519.  Liquid  Silver,  for  Vellum,  &c. 
Take  silver  leaf  and  grind  it  with  gurn- water 
or  glaire  of  egg. 

2520.  Copying  Ink.      The  virtue  of 
copying  ink  consists  in  its  non-drying  pro- 
perty.    This  property  may  be  given  to  any 
ordinary  ink  by  the  addition  of  sugar.     Lately, 
however,  glycerine  has  b'een  substituted  for 
sugar,  and  is  decidedly  to  be  preferred.    A 
good  copying  ink  may  be  made  from  common 
violet  writing  ink,  by  the  addition  of  6  parts 
glycerine  to  8  parts  of  the  ink.     Using  only 
5  parts  glycerine  to  8  of  the  ink,  it  will  copy 
well  in  fifteen  minutes  after  it  has  been  used. 
"With  fine  white  copying  paper  the  ink  will 
copy  well  without  the  use  of  a  press. 

2521.  Ink  for    Marking  Packages. 
Take  lampblack  and  mix  thoroughly  with  suf- 
ficient turpentine  to  make  it  thin  enough  to 
flow  from  the  brush.     Powdered  ultramarine, 
instead  of  lampblack,  makes  a  fine  blue  mark- 
ing mixture  for  the  same  purpose. 

2522.  Ink  for  Marking  Packages. 
An  excellent  and  very  cheap  ink  is  made  by 
mixing  J  ounce  bichloride  of  potassa  and  4 
ounces  extract  of  logwood  in  a  stone  jar  or 
demijohn,  with  2  gallons  of  hot  water.     Shake 
well  and    let  it  stand  for  about   2  weeks, 
shaking  occasionally. 

2523.  Permanent    Ink    for  Writing 
in  Relief  on  Zinc.     Bichloride  of  platinum, 
dry,  1  part;  gum-arabic,  1  part;  distilled  wa- 
ter, 10  parts.     The  letters  traced  upon  zinc 
with  this  solution  turn  black  immediately. 
The  black  characters  resist  the  action  of  weak 
acids,  of  rain,  or  of  the  elements  in  general, 
and  the  liquid  is  thus  adapted  for  marking 
signs,  labels,  or  tags  which  are  liable  to  ex- 
posure.    To  bring  out  the  letters  in  relief, 
immerse  the  zinc  tag  in  a  weak  acid  for  a  few 
moments.     The  writing  is  not  attacked  while 
the  metal  is  dissolved  away. 

2524.  Ink  for  Zinc  Labels.      Take  1 
drachm  of  verdigris,  1  drachm  sal  ammoniac 
powder,  and  £  drachm  lampblack,  and  mix 
them  with  10  drachms  water ;  and  this  will 
form  an  indelible  ink  for  writing  on  zinc. 

2525.  To  Write    on    Silver  with  a 
Black   that  will  Never  Go  Off.      Take 
burnt  lead  and  pulverize  it.     Incorporate  it 
next  with  sulphur  and  vinegar,  to  the  consist- 
ency of  a  paint,  and  write  with  it  on  any 
silver  plate.    Let  it  dry,  then  present  it  to 
the  fire  so  as  to  heat  the  work  a  little,  and  it 
is  completed. 

2526.  Indestructible  Inks.    Employed 
for  writing  the  labels  on  bottles  containing 
strong  acids  and  alkaline  solutions.     They  are 
capable  of  resisting  the    action    of  iodine, 
chlorine,  alkaline  lyes  and  acids,  as  well  as 
operations  of  dyeing  and  bleaching,  besides 
being  an  excellent  and   cheap   material  for 
marking  linen,  as  nothing  will  remove  them 
without  destroying  the  fabric. 

2527.  Hausmann's     Indestructible 
Ink.    Mix  1  part  genuine  Trinidad  asphaltum 
with  4  parts  oil  of  turpentine ;    color  with  a 


236 


INKS. 


sufficiency  of  plumbago,  for  black,  or  vermilion 
for  red  ink. 

2528.  Close's    Indestructible    Ink. 
Mix  25  grains  powdered  cobalt  and  '200  grains 
oil  of  lavender  by  a  gentle  heat ;  color  with  3 
grains  lampblack  and  1  grain  indigo,  both  in 
fine  powder.     If  a  red  color  is  required,  omit 
the  lampblack  and  indigo  and  add  sufficient 
vermilion  to  make  the  mixture  a  good  color. 

2529.  Indestructible  "Writing    Ink. 
Shellac,  4  parts ;  borax,  2  parts ;    soft  water, 
36  parts ;  boil  in  a  close  vessel  till  dissolved ; 
then  filter,  and  take  of  gum-arabic,  2  parts ; 
soft  water,  4  parts.     Dissolve,  and  mix  the 
two  solutions  together,  and  boil  for  5  minutes 
as  before,   occasionally   stirring  to  promote 
their  union ;  when  cold,  add  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  finely  powdered  indigo  and  lampblack 
to  color ;    lastly,  let  it  stand  for  2  or  3  hours, 
until  the  coarser  powder  has  subsided,  and 
bottle  for  use.    Use  this  fluid  with  a  clean 
pen,  and  keep  it  in  glass  or  earthen  inkstands, 
as  many  substances  will  decompose  it  while 
in  the  liquid  state.    "When  dry  it  will  resist 
the  action  of  water,  oil,  turpentine,  alcohol, 
diluted  sulphuric  acid,  diluted  hydrochloric 
acid,   oxalic  acid,  chlorine,  and  the  caustic 
alkalies  and  alkaline  earths. 

2530.  Simple  Carbon  Ink.      Dissolve 
30  grains  of  sugar  in  30  grains  of  water,  to 
which  add  a  few  drops  of  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid.    Upon  heating  this  mixture  the 
sugar  becomes  carbonized  by  the  acid,  and 
when  applied  to  the  paper  it  leaves  a  coating 
of  carbon  which  cannot  be  washed  off.    This 
stain  is  rendered  more  perfect  by  the  decom- 
posing action  of  the  ink  itself  upon  the  paper, 
and  thus  resists  the  action  of  chemical  agents. 

2531.  Drawing    Ink.      A  very  black 
and  indelible  drawing  ink  may  be  made  by 
dissolving  shellac  in  a  hot  water  solution  of 
borax,  and  rubbing  up  in  this  solution  a  fine 
quality  of  Indian  ink.    After  using,  dip  the 
drawing  pen  in  alcohol,  and  wipe  dry  to  keep 
it  clean  and  bright.     (See  No.  2514.) 

2532.  Permanent  Ink  for  Use  with 
Stamps  or  Type.     Mix  equal  parts  black 
oxide  of  manganese  and  hydrate  of  potash, 
heat  to  redness,  and  rub  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  smooth  white  clay  into  a  paste,  water 
being  added  for  the  purpose.     Or :  Sulphate 
of    manganese,    2    drachms;    lampblack,    1 
drachm ;    powdered  loaf  sugar,  4  drachms  ; 
rubbed  into  paste  with  water.     After  stamp- 
ing, dry  the  linen  and  wash  well  in  water. 

2533.  Sympathetic,  or  Invisible  Inks, 
for  Secret  Writing.     These  are  colorless 
inks  which  require  the  aid  of  heat  or  some 
other  agency  to  develop  the  characters  written 
with   them.      Their  use  has  been  rendered 
specially  practical  since  the  recent  introduc- 
tion of  the  postal  correspondence  cards  in 
England  and  elsewhere.      By  previous    ar- 
rangement between  correspondents,  the  re- 
ceiver of  a  card  only  needs  some  visible  sign 
on  the  card  to  identify  the  writer  or  sender ; 
this  will  at  once  suggest  the  means  to  be  em- 
ployed to  develop  the  particular  ink  the  re- 
ceiver's correspondent  has  agreed  to  use. 

2534.      Black    Sympathetic     Inks. 

"Writing  with  a  solution  of  sugar  of  lead  will 

be  turned  black  by  moistening  the  paper  with 

sulphide  of  potassium. 

If  nitrate  of  silver  be  used,  the  writing  will 


become  black  by  dipping  the  paper  in  a  solu- 
tion of  ammonia. 

Chloride  of  mercury  will  turn  black  when 
wetted  with  chloride  of  tin. 

A  weak  infusion  of  galls  is  turned  black  by 
sulphate  of  iron  (copperas). 

Reversing  the  above,  writing  with  copperas 
turns  black  by  moistening  with  infusion  of 
galls. 

2535.  Blue  Sympathetic  Inks. 
"Writing  with  copperas  turns  blue  if  wetted 
with  a  solution  of  prussiate  of  potassa. 

Nitrate  of  cobalt  turns  blue  on  being  wetted 
with  a  weak  solution  of  oxalic  acid. 

Bice  water  or  a  solution  of  boiled  starch 
turns  blue  in  a  solution  of  iodine  in  weak 
spirit. 

2536.  Brown  Sympathetic  Ink.  A 
diluted  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  turns 
brown  by  exposure  to  the  sunlight. 

2537.  Yellow  Sympathetic  Ink. 
Chloride  of  antimony,  used  as  the  ink,  will  be- 
come yellow  by  moistening  with  a  decoction 
of  galls. 

2538.  Green  Sympathetic  Ink.  Ar- 
seniate  of  copper,  washed  over  with  nitrate 
of  copper,  turns  a  beautiful  green. 

2539.  Purple  Sympathetic  Ink. 
Purple  is  produced  by  using  chloride  of  gold, 
and  soaking  in  chloride  of  tin. 

2540.  Sympathetic  Inks  Developed 
by  Heat.     There  are  a  number  of  colorless 
substances  that  may  be  used  as  inks,  which 
are  developed  by  the  application  of  heat  only. 

Sulphate  of  copper  and  sal  ammoniac,  mixed 
in  equal  parts,  will  become  yellow  if  exposed 
to  the  fire. 

Onion  juice  has  the  same  property  as  the 
above  mixture. 

Lemon  juice,  a  very  weak  solution  of  either 
aquafortis,  oil  of  vitriol,  common  salt, 'or  salt- 
petre, will  turn  yellow  or  brown  on  exposure 
to  the  fire. 

A  weak  solution  of  chloride  of  cobalt  and 
chloride  of  nickel  is  turned  a  beautiful  green 
by  heat. 

A  solution  of  chloride  or  nitro-muriate  of 
cobalt,  turns  green  when  heated,  and  disap- 
pears again  on  cooling. 

A  dilute  solution  of  chloride  of  copper  be- 
comes a  fine  yellow  at  a  moderate  heat,  and 
disappears  on  cooling. 

A  solution  of  acetate  of  cobalt,  with  a  little 
nitrate  added  to  it,  turns  rose-colored  by  heat, 
and  disappears  again  when  cold. 

These  last,  which  disappear  again  on  cool- 
ing, are  the  best  sympathetic  inks  for  pur- 
poses of  correspondence,  as  the  others  are 
more  or  less  indelible  when  once  developed. 

2541 .  Hoe's  Composition  for  Printing 
Ink  Hollers.     This  consists  of  glue  and  mo- 
lasses, the  proportions  varying  from  8  pounds 
of  glue  in  summer  to  4  pounds  in  winter,  for 
each  gallon  of  molasses.     The   glue   should 
bo  placed  for  -J  an  hour  in  a  bucket,  covered 
with  water,  then  pour  the  water  off  and  allow 
the  glue  to  soften.     Put  it  into  a  kettle  and 
heat  it  until  thoroughly  melted  ;  if  too  thick, 
a  little  water  may  be  added.    Lastly,  the  mo- 
lasses is  stirred  in  and  well  mixed  with  the 
glue.      "When  properly  prepared,   an    hour's 
boiling  will  be  sufficient,  as  too  much  boiling 
is  apt  to  candy  the  molasses.     Pour  into  a 
clean  mould  well  oiled  with  a  swab. 


ANILINE    COLORS. 


237 


2542.  To  Clean  Ink  Hollers.     Roller 
should  not  be  washed  immediately  after  use, 
as  they  will  become   dry   and   skinny,   but 
they  may  be  washed  i  hour  before  using  again. 
In  cleaning  a  new  roller,  a  little  oil  rubbed 
over  it  will  loosen  the  ink,  and  it  should  be 
scraped  clean  with  the  back  of  a  knife ;   it 
should  be  cleaned  this  way  for  about  a  week, 
when  lye   may   be   used.      N"ew  rollers   are 
often  spoiled  by  washing  too  soon  with  lye. 

2543.  Black  Printing  Ink.     Boil 
gallons  old  clear  linseed  oil  to  the  consistence 
of  a  thick  varnish  ;  whilst  hot,  add  to  it,  dur- 
ing constant  stirring,  first  6  pounds  powdered 
resin,  and  next  If  pounds   dry  brown   soap 
shavings ;   then  mix  in  it  2J-  ounces  indigo 
blue,  2£  ounces  Paris  blue,  and  5  pounds  best 
lampblack.      After  standing  for    a  week  it 
should  be  ground. 

2544.  Black  or  Colored  Printing  Ink. 
Balsam  copaiba,  9  ounces ;  lampblack,  3  oun- 
ces;   Paris   blue,  1J-  ounces;    Indian   red,  | 
ounoo ;  dry  resin  soap,  3  ounces.     These  will 
produce  a  superior  black  ink.     By  employing 
white  soap  instead  of  yellow,  and  a  sufficiency 
of  some  coloring  pigment  instead  of  the  black, 
blue,  and  red  mixture,  a  good  colored  ink  will 
be  obtained. 

2545.  New  Ink  for  Printers.     A  new 
ink  for  printers  has  been  invented  by  Professor 
Artus,  and  Mr.  Fleckstein,  a  master-printer 
at  Lichtenhain,  which  ink  is  said  to  be  a  com- 
plete success.     The  composition  of  it  is  as 
follows:      Tenetian    turpentine,   4£   ounces; 
fluid  soap,  5  ounces;  rectified  oleine,  2  ounces; 
burnt  soot,  3  ounces ;  Paris  blue  (ferrocyanic 
acid),  -J  ounce;  oxalic  acid,  £  ounce;  distilled 
water,  i  ounce.     The  mixing  process  of  this 
new,  beautiful,  and  cheap  ink  is  described  as 
follows :  Gradually  warm  the  turpentine  and 
the  oleine  together ;  put  the  soap  on  a  marble 
plate,  and  gradually  add,  continually  rubbing, 
the  mixture  of  turpentine  and  oleine ;  when 
well  mixed,  add  the  burnt  soot,  which  must 
first  be  well  powdered  and  sifted;  then  add  the 
Paris  blue,  dissolved  in  the  oxalic  acid,  con- 
tinually rubbing  the  composition  on  the  stone, 
the   Paris   blue   and   the  oxalic  acid  having 
been  mixed  before  with  water  in  the  above 
given   proportions.      A   solution   of   soda  in 
water  is  sufficient  to  thoroughly  cleanse  the 
type. 

2546.  Indelible  Printing  Ink.     Mix  1 
pound  varnish  (such  as  is  used  for  ordinary 
printing  ink),    1   pound   black   sulphuret    of 
mercury,  1  ounce  nitrate  of  silver,  1  ounce 
sulphate  of  iron,  2  table-spoonfuls  lampblack. 
Thoroughly   grind  together,   adding  enough 
turpentine  to  reduce  to  the  requisite  consist- 
ency. 

2547.  Lithographic  Ink.      Grind  to- 
gether 8  parts  mastich,  in  tears,  and  12  parts 
shellac ;  dissolve  carefully  by  heat  in  1  part 
Venice  turpentine ;  after  the  mixture  is  taken 
from  the  fire,  mix  in  16  parts  wax  and  6  parts 
tallow;  then  add,  by  stirring,  6  parts  hard  tal- 
low soap  in  shavings,  and  finally  incorporate 
in  the  mass  4  parts  lampblack.     Heat  and  stir 
until  thoroughly  mixed;  let  it  cool  a  little,  and 
pour  it  out  on  tables,  and  when  cold,  cut  into 
square  rods. 

2548.  Lithographic  Transfer    Ink. 
Melt  together  8  parts  white  wax  and  2  parts 
white   soap ;    and,   before  they   become  hot 


enough  to  take  fire,  stir  in  by  degrees  suffi- 
cient lampblack  to  make  the  mixture  black ; 
then  allow  the  whole  to  burn  for  30  seconds ; 
when  the  flame  is  extinguished,  add,  a  little 
at  a  time,  2  parts  shellac,  stirring  it  in  con- 
stantly ;  put  the  vessel  on  the  fire  again  until 
the  mass  is  kindled,  or  nearly  so.  Put  out  the 
flame  and  allow  it  to  cool  a  little,  and  then  run 
it  into  the  moulds.  Ink  thus  made  will  make 
as  fine  or  coarse  lines  as  are  desired,  and  its 
traces  will  remain  unchanged  for  years  before 
being  transferred.  When  suet  enters  into  the 
composition  of  lithographic  crayons,  it  does 
not  keep  long,  and  requires  immediate  trans- 
ferring to  the  stone. 

2549.  Lithographic  Ink.    M.  Lasteyrie 
states  that,  after  having  tried  a  great  many 
combinations,  he  gives  the  preference  to  the 
following: — Dry  tallow  soap,  mastich  in  tears, 
and  common  soda  in  fine  powder,  of  each  30 
parts;  shellac,  150  parts;  lampblack,  12  parts; 
mix  as  last.    Used  for  writing  on  lithographic 
stones. 

2550.  To  Test  the  Quality  of  Litho- 
graphic Ink.      Lithographic  ink    of   good 
quality  ought  to  be  susceptible  of  forming  an 
emulsion  so  attenuated  that  it  may  appear  to 
be  dissolved  when  rubbed  upon  a  hard  body 
in  distilled  or  river  water.     It  should  be  flow- 
ing in  the  pen,  not  spreading  on  the  stone ; 
capable  of  forming  delicate  traces,  and  very 
black,  to  show  its  delineations.     The  most  es- 
sential quality  of  the  ink  is  to  sink  well 'into 
the  stone,  so  as  to  reproduce  the  most  delicate 
outlines  of  the  drawing,  and  to  afford  a  great 
many  impressions.      It  must,   therefore,   be 
able  to  resist  the  acid  with  which  the  stone  is 
moistened  in  the  preparation,  without  letting 
any  of  its  greasy  matter  escape. 

2551.  Durable   Autographic    Ink. 
"White  wax,  8  ounces ;  and  white  soap,  2  to  3 
ounces;  melt;  when  well  combined  add  lamp- 
black, 1  ounce;  mix  well,  and  heat  it  strongly; 
then  add  shellac,  2  ounces;   again  heat  it 
strongly ;  stir  well  together,  cool  a  little,  and 
pour  it  out.     With  this  ink    lines  may  be 
drawn  of  the  finest  to  the  fullest  class  with- 
out danger  of  its  spreading,  and  the  copy  may 
be   kept  for  years   before  being  transferred. 
This  mk  is   employed  for  writing  on  litho- 
graphic paper,  and  is  prepared  for  use  by  rub- 
bing down  with  a  little  water  in  a  saucer,  in 
the  same  way  as  common  water-color  cakes 
or  Indian  ink.     In  winter  this  should  be  done 
near  a  fire,  or  the  saucer  should  be  placed  over 
a  basin  containing  a  little  warm  water.     It 
may  then  be  used  with  either  a  steel  pen  or  a 
camel's-hair  pencil. 


Aniline  Colors.  Aniline  is  a 
JC\_  liquid  of  a  color  varying  from  yellow  to 
dark  brown.  The  commercial  article  is  never 
chemically  pure,  being  a  mixture  of  pure  ani- 
line, toluidine,  and  odorine.  Its  boiling  point 
ranges  from  356°  to  482°  Fahr.  If  aniline  boils 
at  a  lower  temperature  than  356°,  it  contains 
too  much  /odorine,  and  is,  therefore,  of  poor 
quality.  It  is  obtained  by  conversion  from 
uitro-benzole,  a  preparation  of  the  benzole  ob- 
tained from  coal  tar  (not  from  petroleum).  In 
preparing  nitro-benzole  on  a  large  scale,  12 


238 


ANILINE    COLORS. 


parts  benzole  are  mixed  with  13  parts  fuming 
nitric  acid,  and  8  parts  oil  of  vitriol,  in  a  cast 
iron  apparatus.  The  character  of  the  product 
depends  greatly  on  the  purity  of  the  benzole, 
and  also  on  the  management  of  the  reaction. 
The  conversion  of  nitro-benzole  into  aniline  is, 
by  Be"champs'  process,  performed  in  iron  tanks, 
heated  by  steam,  and  provided  with  stirrers, 
and  a  still-head  to  collect  the  distillates.  The 
tank  or  still  is  charged  with  100  parts  nitro- 
benzole,  150  clean  wrought  iron  filings,  100 
water,  and  150  acetic  acid;  when  these  are 
mixed  spontaneous  heat  is  evolved,  which 
causes  some  of  the  liquid  to  pass  into  the  con- 
densers, whence  it  is  returned  to  the  tank. 
As  the  heat  is  not  sufficient  for  the  complete 
conversion  of  the  nitro-benzole,  steam  is  intro- 
duced after  a  time,  and  the  stirring  and  steam- 
ing is  continued  until  no  more  nitro-benzole 
appears  in  the  distilled  vapor.  At  this  point 
the  temperature  is  increased,  and,  if  necessary, 
aided  by  direct  fire,  to  cause  complete  distilla- 
tion of  the  aniline  which  has  formed,  and  which 
passes  off  with  water,  and  separates  from  it  on 
standing,  as  the  heavier  stratum.  The  aniline 
used  for  the  various  colors  is  taken  of  different 
composition  and  boiling-point.  A.  W.  Hof- 
mann  has  shown  that  a  mixture  of  an  equiva- 
lent of  aniline  and  two  of  toluidine  produces 
the  largest  yield  of  rosaniline  (fuchsine).  The 
substance  used  for  this  manufacture  begins  to 
boil  at  about  347°,  and  as  the  heat  increases  to 
390°  80  per  cent,  will  have  distilled  over. 
Aniline  blue  and  purple  require  an  oil  which 
begins  to  boil  at  374°,  and  at  392°  haslostonly 
60  per  cent.  Evidently  with  these  properties 
it  contains  less  aniline  than  the  preceding  one. 
The  changes  which  these  bases  undergo  when 
converted  into  dyes  or  compounds  of  rosani- 
line, are  brought  about  by  the  partial  destruc- 
tion of  a  portion  of  them. 

2553.  Rosaniline,  or  Fuchsine.     The 
principal  methods  for  the  manufacture  of  fuch- 
sine employ  arsenic  acid,  the  reaction  being 
brought  about  in  a  cast  iron  still  with  mova- 
ble head,  connected  with  a  condenser,   and 
provided  with  a  manhole,  and  also  a  place  for 
a  thermometer.    This  still  sits  in  a  jacket  con- 
taining a  hot  bath  of  palm-oil,  which  keeps  it 
at  a  temperature  of  from  320°  to  356°  Fahr.  A 
charge  consists  of  100  parts  aniline  and  200 
parts  arsenic  acid,  and  the  reaction  is  ordina- 
rily completed  in  about  6  hours,  sometimes  in 
5,  but  at  others  only  in  12  hours,  during  which 
time  the  temperature  is  carefully  regulated. 
Assays  are  taken  from  time  to  time,  and  the 
completion   of  the  process  is  known  by  the 
pure  bronze  color  of  the  sample.     The  fused 
mass  is  transferred  to  a  tank,  in  which,  after 
cooling,  it  is  broken  up,  and  at  once  treated 
with  water  and  steam.     The  base  fuchsine 
(rosaniline)  dissolves,  leaving  behind  the  resin- 
ous products  of  the  reaction ;  the  arsenic  acid 
is  separated  by  the  addition  of  milk  of  lime. 
The  filtered  solution,  after  proper  concentration, 
deposits,  on  cooling,  fine  crystals  of  fuchsine, 
as  do  also  the  first  mother  liquors.     An  infe- 
rior quality  of  fuchsine  is  obtained  by  adding  a 
portion  of  salt,  varying  in  quantity. 

2554.  Aniline  Blue.      Aniline  blue  re- 
sults from  various  processes.     The  one  most 
commonly  used  at  present  is  that  of  Girard  and 
De  Laire,  made  by  heating  fuchsine  with  fluid 
aniline.     The  original  process  produced  a  blue 


with  a  reddish  tinge ;  but  by  the  addition  of 
some  organic  substances,  acetic  acid,  and  me- 
thylic  alcohol,  pure  blue  is  obtained.  It  is  dis- 
tinguished from  all  other  blues  by  not  appear- 
ing green  in  candle  light.  The  various 
shades  of  purple  to  blue  and  violet  are  made 
from  fuchsine  by  Hofmann's  method  (see  No. 
2608),  heating  1  part  fuchsine  and  2  iodide  of 
ethyl  with  2  parts  alcohol  in  a  closed  vessel  at 
212°  for  variable  lengths  of  time ;  the  blue  re- 
sulting from  longest  exposure. 

2555.  Aniline  Green.     Aniline  green  is 
produced  from  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  rosani- 
line in  dilute  sulphuric  acid  and  some  alde- 
hyde, which  is  heated  till  its  color  has  changed 
to  dark  green.     Addition  of  a  solution  of  hy- 
posulphite of  soda  separates  the  color. 

2556.  Aniline  Green.     Several  of  the 
aniline  greens  occurring  in  the  market  are  apt 
to  undergo   spontaneous   destruction,   some- 
times in  less  than  a  day.    The  following  is  a 
formula  which  any  one  may  make  :  4  parts  of 
pure  fuchsine  or  rosaniline  are  dissolved  in  6 
parts  water  and  16  parts  aldehyde  (see  next 
receipt),  and  are  heated  at  212°  Fahr.,  until  a 
drop  of  the  mixture  imparts  to  water  acidula- 
ted slightly  with  sulphuric  acid  a  clear  blue 
color,  when  it  is  ready  to  be  poured  into  aboil- 
ing  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda,  which  is 
being  stirred.     A  fine  green  precipitate  forms, 
and  a  grayish  one,  which  latter  must  be  kept 
separate.     The  green  is  mordanted  principally 
with  acetate  of  alumina. 

2557.  To  Prepare    Aldehyde.     Alde- 
hyde is  made  by  filling  a  tubulated  glass  re- 
tort, altogether  to  one-third  full,  with  32  parts 
absolute  alcohol,  30  parts  bichromate  of  po- 
tassa,  and,  without  previous  cooling,  a  mixture 
of  35  parts  oil  of  vitriol,  and  30  of  water,  in  small 
portions,  through  a  safety-tube  in  tbe  tubus. 
After  one-half  of  the  latter  has  been  intro- 
duced, the  rnixture  commences  to  boil  and  al- 
dehyde begins  to  distill  over,  the  remainder  of 
the   said  mixture  being  added   through   the 
tubulus  as  required.     No  further  purification 
is  needed. 

2558.  To  Make  Aniline  Colors  Solu- 
ble in  Water.     The  aniline  colors  insoluble 
in  water  may,  according  to  Dr.  Zinsman,  be 
rendered  soluble  in   the   following   way: — A 
solution  of  gelatine  in  acetic  acid  of  about  the 
consistence  of  syrup    is  first  made,  and  the 
aniline  color  in  fine  powder  is  gradually  added, 
stirring  all  the  time  so  as  to  obtain  a  homo- 
geneous paste.     The  mixture  is  then  to  be  heat- 
ed over  a  water-bath  to  the  temperature  of 
boiling  water,  and  kept  at  that  heat  for  some 
time.     Colors  in  this  state,  if  a  very  clear  gel- 
atine is  employed,  will  be  applicable  to  many 
decorative    purposes.       Bookbinders,    paper- 
stainers,  and  printers  will  find  them  useful. 
They  may  also,  it  is  said,  be  used  to  color  con- 
fectionery and  soaps.    Before  they  are  used 
for  confectionery,  however,  it  will  be  well  to 
make  sure  that  no  arsenic  is  present. 

2559.  Injurious  Effects  of  Impure 
Alcohol  upon  Aniline  Colors.  Dr.  Till- 
manns  has  examined  several  varieties  of  al- 
cohol, and  tested  the  effects  upon  aniline 
colors.  -The  most  sensitive  among  these,  for 
impure  alcohol,  is  aniline  purple  (phenyl- 
rosaniline).  It  appears  that  cmpyreumatic 
substances,  aldehyde,  the  peculiar  fusel  oils  due 
to  the  substances  used  in  the  manufacture  of 


ANILINE    COLORS. 


239 


the  alcohol,  affect  the  aniline  colors  when  dis- 
solved in  such  alcohols  and  boiled  therewith. 
The  best  test  for  the  purity  of  an  alcohol  is  to 
dissolve  in  it  1  per  cent,  of  perfectly  pure 
caustic  potassa,  and  to  heat  the  solution;  it 
should  only  acquire  a  bright  yellow  color. 
Another  test  is  to  dissolve  1  part  of  the  aniline 

Eurple  alluded  to  in  50  parts  of  the  alcohol  to 
e  tested,  and  to  heat  the  fluid  for  some  time. 
If,  after  half  an  hour's  heating,  no  change  is 
observed,  the  quality  of  the  alcohol  is  good; 
but  if  the  latter  is  not  pure  enough,  the  mix- 
ture soon  becomes  turbid,  and  assumes  a  red 
color.  Another  test  is  to  make  two  solution 
of  the  color  of  the  same  strength  (1  in  50),  one 
with  alcohol  of  known  purity,  and  the  other 
with  the  suspected  alcohol,  and  then  compare 
the  intensity  and  shade  of  the  solutions.  Al- 
dehyde is  often  present  in  alcohol,  especially 
if  it  has  been  purified  by  means  of  charcoal. 

2560.  To  Test  the  Quality  of  Aniline 
Colors.  A  good  and  practical  way  of  testing 
the  merits  of  aniline  colors  is  to  have,  and 
keep  on  hand,  a  standard  and  measure  of  com- 
parison, a  sample  whose  value  and  coloring 
power  hag  been  ascertained  by  actual  practice. 
If  a  new  supply  of  dye  stuff  is  to  be  tested, 
weigh  out  equal  quantities  of  the  standard  col- 
oring matter  and  of  the  one  to  be  tested  (say 
10  to  30  grains);  dissolve  them,  using  the 
same  quantity  of  alcohol  and  water,  in  vessels 
of  as  nearly  as  possible  equal  size;  intro- 
duce in  each  an  equal  quantity  of  white  wool ; 
place  them  on  a  water  bath;  raise  the 
temperature  gradually,  and  after  sufficient 
time  has  elapsed,  take  the  two  pieces  out,  dry 
them  carefully,  and  compare  them.  That 
which  has  been  dyed  with  the  best  dye,  will, 
of  course,  show  the  fullest,  brightest,  and 
clearest  color.  Instead  of  testing  on  skeins  of 
wool,  Mr.  Shuttleworth  recommends  small 
squares  of  white  merino  or  cashmere,  as  af- 
fording a  more  even  surface,  and  a  greater 
mass  of  color.  A  known  weight  of  the  dye 
should  be  dissolved  in  alcohol  and  added  to 
the  bath  of  warm  water,  with  the  necessary 
mordants.  A  square  of  cloth  of  known  weight 
— say  10  grains — is  immersed  in  the  bath,  and, 
after  a  stated  time,  removed.  The  strength 
and  shade  of  the  color  can  thus  be  compared 
with  previous  samples,  dyed  under  like  condi- 
tions. It  is  a  good  plan  to  paste  these  squares, 
by  one  edge,  in  a  blank  book,  noting  anything 
worthy  of  remark  on  the  margin.  The  colors 
are  thus  preserved  from  the  action  of  the  light, 
and  will  be  found  very  useful  for  reference. 

2561.  Test  for  Sugar  in  Aniline 
Dyes.  Aniline  blue  and  aniline  green  have 
been  found  adulterated  with  a  considerable 
quantity  of  sugar.  Mr.  Joly,  of  Brussels,  has 
also  found  this  to  be  the  case  with  red  aniline 
colors,  such  as  fuchsine,  rubine,  &c.,  the  adul- 
teration amounting  in  some  cases  to  as  much 
as  50  per  cent.  The  amount  of  sugar  present 
can  be  ascertained  by  treating  a  sample  of  the 
suspected  dye  with  absolute  alcohol ;  or,  still 
better,  with  a  mixture  of  alcohol  and  ether ; 
the  sugar  will  remain  undissolved. 

2562.  To  Remove  Sugar  from  Ani- 
line Dyes.  If  it  be  found  by  the  test  given 
in  No.  2561,  that  an  aniline  color  has  been 
adulterated  with  sugar,  this  may  be  removed 
by  repeatedly  washing  the  color  with  cold 
water,  which  will  dissolve  the  sugar. 


2563.  General  Directions  for  the  TJse 
of  Aniline  Dyes.     It  is  impossible  to  u;.:c 
any  dye,  successfully,  without  due  regard  to 
cleanliness.     This  is,  perhaps,  more  particu- 
larly the  case  with  the  anilines.     The  slightest 
trace  of  a  foreign  substance  will  often  mate- 
rially alter  the  shade.     Earthen  or  enameled 
vessels  should  be  used  whenever  practicable. 
Iron  is  generally  to  be  avoided,  if  for  no  other 
reason  than  that  it  is  difficult  to  say  when  it 
is  really  clean.    Woolen  and  silken  goods, 
before    being    dyed,    should    be    thoroughly 
washed  in  soap  and  water,  and  then  carefully 
rinsed  in  clean  rain  water.    Cotton  requires  a 
previous  mordanting  before  it  can  be  dyed 
with  anilines,  as  vegetable  fibre  possesses  no 
affinity  for  the  colors.    The  preparation  gen- 
erally consists  in  treatment    by  sumac,   or 
stannate  of  soda,  and  subsequently  by  sul- 
phuric acid ;  special  directions  will  be  given 
in  those  cases  requiring  particular  treatment. 
Old  fabrics  which  were  dyed  before,  may  be 
freed  from  color  by  previous  boiling  for  an 
hour   in  strong  soapsuds.     The  spirit  used 
should  be  pure,  and  especially  free  from  alde- 
hyde ;  methyl  spirit  does  not  appear  to  injure 
some  of  the  dyes:    Spirit  containing  shellac 
turns  roseiue  of  a  bluish  color. 

2564.  To  Distinguish  Aniline  from 
Other  Dyes.     Aniline  colors,  for  dyeing  pur- 
poses, are  now  used  to  such  an  extent  through- 
out the  country  as  almost  to  exclude  all  others, 
on  account  of  their  brilliancy  and  cheapness. 
They  are,  however,  liable  to  lose  in  appearance 
by  bright  sunlight,  and  in  lustre  by  the  arti- 
ficial light  of  gas  or  candles.     It  is,  therefore, 
desirable  to  have  a  ready  means  by  which 
they  can  be  recognized.     This  is  all  the  more 
necessary,  as  arsenic  acid  is  generally  em- 
ployed in  their  preparation ;  and  a  cloth  that 
has  been  dyed  with  an  aniline  color  containing 
it  may  have  absorbed  a  considerable  quantity 
of  that  dangerous  article.     The  readiest  way 
for  its  detection  is  to  boil  the  flannel,  or  what- 
ever other  cloth  it  may  be,  with  a  solution  of 
caustic  soda  or  potassa,  and,  after  filtering 
the  fluid  from  the  residue,  neutralizing  it  with 
hydrochloric  acid.      If  the  cloth   has  been 
dyed  with  an  aniline  color,  the  fluid  will  show 
a  coloration.    Most  of  the  aniline  dyes  may 
also  be  extracted  by  boiling  alcohol,  which 
process,   perhaps,  can  be  performed  in  less 
time  than  the  other. 

2565.  To  Remove  Aniline   Colors. 
There  are  various  ways  proposed  to  remove 
aniline  colors,  the  following  being  the  simplest 
and  most  practical.     Goods  dyed  with  aniline 
colors  may  easily  be  rendered  white  by  the 
use  of  zinc  gray;  the  metallic  zinc  contained 
in  this  powder  reduces  the  colors,  forming 
soluble   colorless    products.      To   apply    the 
principle,  triturate  100  grains  zinc  gray  with 
50  grains  mucilage  marking  20°  Baurn6,  until 
the    mixture    is    homogeneous ;    incorporate 
with  this  20  grains  of  a  solution  of  hyposul- 
phite of  soda  marking  20°  Baum6,  apply  this 
mixture  directly  to  the  goods,  let  it  dry  and 
vaporize.    After  this  operation  it  is  best  to 
wash  the  goods  with  water  slightly  acidulated 
with  hydrochloric  acid.     Cotton  goods  may 
be  bleached  by  chlorine  or  bleaching  liquor, 
but  this  is  not  applicable  to  other  than  cotton 
fabrics. 

Another  simple  method  consists  in  digest- 


ANILINE    COLOES 


ing  the  fabrics  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time 
in  90  per  cent,  alcohol,  which  usually  com- 
pletes the  decolorization  in  a  short  space  of 
time.  The  same  alcohol  can  be  used  several 
times  in  succession,  and  can  afterward  be  puri- 
fied by  rectification  or  redistillation,  so  as  to 
involve  but  little  loss.  The  work  is  best  done 
in  a  well-covered  copper  kettle,  which  is  to  be 
set  in  boiling  water.  A  little  hydrochloric 
acid  may  be  added  if  the  articles  are  not  too 
delicate,  thereby  increasing  the  solubility  of 
the  aniline  colors. 

If  all  other  methods  fail,  cyanide  of  po- 
tassium is  absolutely  certain.  A  stone  vessel 
is  to  be  selected,  in  which  a  small  quantity  of 
cyanide  of  potassium  is  to  be  introduced,  and 


solved  until  the  solution  shows  2°  Bamn6 ; 
for  the  wool  the  mordanting  bath  should  be 
at  a  boiling  heat,  and  the  goods  should  also 
be  placed  in  a  warm  bath  of  tannin  90°  Fahr. 
for  half  an  hour.  In  dyeing,  a  hot  solution  of 
the  color  must  be  used,  to  which  should  be 
added,  in  the  case  of  the  cotton,  some  chloride 
of  zinc,  and,  in  the  case  of  the  wool,  a  certain 
amount  of  tannin  solution. 


2569. 
Cotton. 


To  Dye  Aniline  Opal  Blue  on 
To  mordant  the  aniline  color  known 


as  opal  blue  upon  cotton  it  is  recommended 
to  rinse  the  goods,  after  bleaching,  in  a  dilute 
solution  of  soda  crystals,  to  neutralize  the 
acid  of  bleaching,  then  to  pass  them  into  a 


hot  water  poured  upon  it,  so  as  to  make  a  so- 
lution of  1°  to  1°  Baume.  The  whole  is  to 
be  stirred  well  with  a  long  and  strong  glass  2 


hot  bath  of  soap,  in  which  oil  exists  in  emul- 
" 


sion  in  these  proportions:  "Water,  100  liters  (211 
pints);  soap,  8  kilos  (21£  pounds  troy);  oil, 
" 


rod,  and  the  operation  conducted  in  the  open 
air,  so  that  no  harm  may  result  from  the  con- 
densation of  the  vapor.  The  fabric  in  question, 
previously  well  cleaned,  is  now  placed  in  the 
vessel,  and  pushed  under  the  liquid  with  the 
glass  rod,  and  the  top  of  the  vessel  laid  on. 
It  is  advisable  to  keep  the  solution  warm,  by 
immersing  the  stone  vessel  in  a  wooden  tub 
properly  supplied  with  steam  or  hot  water. 


kilos  (5£  pounds  troy).     "Wring  them  out, 


dry,  and  pass  them  into  a  solution  of  acetate 
of  alumina  of  about  4°  or  5°  Baum6,  wring 
out,  dry,  and  rinse  in  hot  water.  Finally  dye 
in  a  solution  of  opal  blue  to  which  acetic  acid 
has  been  added.  The  temperature  of  the  dye 
bath  should  be  75°  to  90°  Fahr.  Binse  and 
dry. 

2570.  Difficulty  in  Dyeing  Cotton  with 
Aniline.     This  difficulty  consists  in  the  ir- 


After  a  short  time  the  lid  should  be  removed  [  regularity  of  intensity  of  color  when  the  ani- 


by  taking  it  off  at  the  end  of  a  long  handle, 
allowing  the  vapors  to  pass  off  before  the 
operator  comes  near.  By  means  of  the  glass 
rod  the  cloth  is  to  be  lifted,  and  if  not  entirely 
white,  is  to  be  replaced  and  the  process  con- 


line  colors  are  applied.  This  effect  is  attri- 
buted to  the  unequal  oxidation  of  the  tin  salts 
applied  before  dipping  the  goods  into  the  dye 
bath ;  in  using  these  colors,  avoid  the  use  of 
the  tin  salts,  which  have  little  or  no  beneficial 


tinned  still  longer.    "When  finished  the  cloth  |  effect  on  the  results  in  any  case ;  and  dip  the 


is  to  be  transferred  by  means  of  the  glass  rod 
to  a  large  vessel  containing  hot  water,  and 
stirred  around  for  a  time,  then  removed  and 
rinsed  off.  The  solution  of  the  cyanide  of 

Eotassium  can  be  used  several  times  without 
>sing  its  power.     Cyanide  of  potassium  is  a 
deadly  poison ;  contact  with  any  sore  or  cut 
is  extremely  dangerous,  and  inhaling  its  va- 
por is  sudden  death. 

2566.  To  Remove  Stains  of  Aniline 
from  the  Hands.     The  best  way  to  remove 
such  stains  from  the  hands  is  to  either  wash 
them  with  strong  alcohol,  or  what  perhaps  is 
more  effectual,  to  wash  them  with  a  little 
bleaching  powder,  and  finally  with  alcohol. 

2567.  Phosphate  of  Lime  as  a  Mor- 
dant.   A  rather  thick  syrupy  solution  of  phos- 
phate of  lime  (bone-ash)  in  hydrochloric  acid 
having  been  recently  recommended  as  a  mor- 
dant to  be  used  after  a  previous  sumaching 
of  the  goods,  Dr.  Reimann  states  that,  accord- 
ing to  his  researches,  the  phosphate  of  lime 
solution  is  altogether  superfluous  for  aniline 
dyes,    since    a    sumaching  with    4    pounds 
sumach  to  20  pounds  cotton  is  of  itself  a 
sufficient  mordanting  to  fix  aniline  colors  ex- 
cellently.    The  application  of  the  phosphate 
of  lime  solution  as  a  mordant  for  cochineal 
colors  upon  cotton  he  also  considers  as  quite 


New  Mordant  Applicable  to 


useless. 

2568. 

Aniline  Colors.  For  this  purpose  the  oxide 
of  zinc,  in  accordance  with  a  patent  taken  out 
in  France  by  MM.  Biot  and  Thisau,  may  be 
used  for  mordanting  aniline  blue  upon  cotton, 
or  the  iodine  green  upon  wool.  The  mordant- 
ing is  effected  by  simply  immersing  the  goods 
for  some  hours  in  a  bath  of  cold  water,  in 
which  chloride  or  acetate  of  zinc  has  been  dis- 


goods  into  the  dye  bath,  after  treating  with 
infusion  of  nut-galls  or  sumach.  If  tin  must 
be  used,  the  best  salt  of  that  metal  is  the  bi- 
chloride. 

2571.  Aniline  Black.  "When  a  salt  of 
aniline  in  solution  is  exposed  to  the  action 
of  certain  oxydizers,  as  salts  of  copper, 
chlorate,  and  bichromate  of  potassa,  it  yields 
a  black  dye,  of  such  depth  that  ordinary  gall 
or  madder  blacks  appear  gray  or  green  in 
comparison.  The  fastness  of  this  color,  its 
resistance  to  the  action  of  acids,  alkalies, 
soaps,  and  sunlight,  render  it  of  great  import- 
ance to  manufacturers,  and  make  it  one  of 
the  great  achievements  of  late  years. 

2572.  Aniline  Black  for  Dyeing. 
According  to  Mr.  Kochliu,  aniline  black  is 
produced  as  follpws :  "Water,  20  to  30  parts ; 
chlorate  of  potassa,  1  part;  sal  ammoniac,  1 
part;  chloride  of  copper,  1  part;  aniline,  hy- 
drochloric acid, 
mixed  together. 


of  each  1   part,    previously 
Several  other  formulae  for 


ly- 

sly 


producing  aniline  blacks  have  been  devised 
for  dyeing  purposes.  It  is  essential  in  each 
of  them,  and  always,  that  the  preparation 
shall  be  acid,  and  the  more  acid  it  is,  the 
more  rapid  is  the  production  of  the  blacks. 
The  action,  of  course,  if  it  be  excessive,  will 
be  likely  to  injure  the  fibre  of  the  fabric. 

2573.  Aniline  Black  on  Wool.  For 
2  pounds  of  wool,  a  bath  is  prepared  of  "20 
quarts  water,  3  ounces  permanganate  of 
potassa,  4J  ounces  sulphate  of  magnesia. 
The  use  of  sulphate  of  magnesia  has  for  its 
object,  to  prevent  the  formation  of  caustic 
alkali,  and  has  already  been  proposed  by 
Tessio  du  Mothay.  The  wool  is  impregnated 
with  this  solution,  and  left  in  it  until  the  fluid 
has  become  colorless,  or  nearly  so,  whereby  it 


ANILINE    COLORS. 


24:1 


is  colored  dark-brown  and  covered  with  brown 
oxide  of  manganese.  This  process  takes  place 
easily  in  the  cold,  but  it  is  best  to  dissolve 
the  permanganate  in  hot  water.  The  wool  is 
now  pressed  out,  and,  without  washing,  con- 
veyed into  a  bath  of  12  ounces  commercial 
aniline  oil,  21  ounces  commercial  hydrochloric 
acid,  and  8  quarts  water,  where  it  is  moved 
about  in  the  cold  ;  it  attains  here  directly  a 
dark  green-black  color.  It  is  pressed  out 
again,  washed  in  water  containing  a  little 
soda,  and  treated  with  a  weak  solution  of 
i  ounce  bichromate  of  potassa  in  10  quarts 
water.  The  color  becomes  now  dark  black, 
when  the  wool  is  washed  with  water  and 
dried. 

2574.  Persoz's  Aniline  Black  for 
Wool  or  Silk.  Steep  the  silk  or  wool  for  1 
hour  at  a  boiling  heat,  in  a  bath  consisting  of 
5  grammes  (77  grains)  bichromate  of  potassa, 
3  grammes  (46  grains)  sulphate  of  copper, 
and  2  grammes  (31  grains)  oil  of  vitriol,  for 
each  litre  (2^  pints)  of  water  used.  It  is  then 
thoroughly  washed,  and  afterward  passed 
through  a  solotion  of  oxalate  of  aniline  mark- 
ing 1°  to  2°  Baum6,  in  which  it  at  once  as- 
sumes a  black  color.  In  case  the  fabric  con- 
tains a  vegetable  fibre,  the  first  bath  must  be 
replaced  by  a  series  of  baths  resulting  in 
chromate  of  lead.  This  is  effected  by  succes- 
sive passages  through  a  solution  of  nitrate  or 
acetate  of  lead,  then  through  a  hot  one  of 
sulphate  of  soda;  and  lastly  through  a  cold 
bath  of  from  5  to  20  grammes  (77  to  300  grains) 
bichromate  of  potash  to  the  litre  (2-tV  pints) 
of  water. 

2575.  To  Prepare  Magenta  for  Dye- 
ing.    This  color,  which  is  also  called  rosein, 
fuchsine,  and  aniline  red,  is  the  best  known  of 
the  series.     It  is  better  adapted  for  the  pre- 
paration of  a  liquid  dye  than  any  other.    In 
the  hands  of  the  amateur  it  can  be  used  with 
economy,  and  the  results  obtained  are  gener- 
ally satisfactory.     It  is  readily  soluble  in  alco- 
hol, and  to  some  extent  in  water.     The  latter 
property  is  taken  advantage  of  by  dyers,  the 
dye  bath   being  prepared  directly  from  the 
crystals.     It  is,   however,   preferable  to  use 
alcohol  for  dissolving  the  color,  as  the  solu- 
bility in  water  is  not  always  the  same  with 
different  samples.     To  1  pound  of.  the  crystals 
add  2£  gallons  of  spirit  .8200  specific  gravity. 
The  solution  may  be  conveniently  made  in  an 
ordinary   5-gallon   tin.      Agitate   frequently, 
and  add  2£  gallons  of  hot  water.     This  pro- 
duct will  be  suitable  for  sale  as  a  liquid  dye, 
but  for  dyers'  use,  where  a  large  quantity  of 
water  is  admissable,  1£  gallons  of  spirit  will 
be  found  sufficient.     It  is  sometimes  necessary 
to  filter  before  using. 

2576.  To  Dye  Silk  or  Wool  Magenta. 
Sufficient  water  to  cover,  without  difficulty, 
the  fabric  to  be  dyed,  is  brought  to  a  temper- 
ature of  about  170°  Fahr.  ;  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  the  dye  is  added,  and  followed  by  the 
immersion   of  the   goods,    which  should    be 
moved  about  to  prevent  streaks.    About  half 
an  hour's  immersion  is   sufficient.      Half  an 
ounce  of  the  crystals  should  give  a  fair  shade 
to  10  pounds  of  wool.     A  bath  of  soap-suds  is 
sometimes  employed  instead  of  water,  and  by 
the  use  of  alkali,  brighter,  but  perhaps  less 
permanent  colors  are  produced.    Acids  render 
the  shade  dull  and  bluish. 


2577.        To   Dye    Cotton   Magenta. 

Place  the  cotton  in  a  bath  of  sumach  (1  pound 
sumach  to  10  pounds  cotton)  for  2  hours. 
Wring  out,  and  dye  in  the  same  manner  as 
wool.  (See  previous  receipt.)  A  brighter 
shade  is  given  by  dissolving  £  ounce  soap  in 
hot  water,  letting  the  solution  cool  to  90°, 
adding  2£  ounces  olive  oil,  and  mixing  with 
tepid  water.  In  this  5  pounds  of  cotton  may 
be  worked  for  about  5  minutes.  A  bath  con- 
taining i  pound  sumach  and  1  ounce  tin 
crystals  is  next  prepared,  through  which  the 
cotton  should  be  passed,  wrung  out,  and 
finally  dyed  in  a  bath  of  magenta  and  pure 
water. 

2578.  Aniline  Cerise  and  Safranine. 
These  colors  resemble  magenta  in  appearance, 
and  appear  to  be  varieties  of  that  substance. 
They  are  readily  soluble  in  alcohol,  and  more 
or  less  so  in  water.    The  colors  produced  are 
similar  to  those  obtained  from  safnower,  but 
possess  greater  vivacity  and  permanence.  The 
shades  are  exceedingly  delicate  and  beautiful, 
inclining  to  pink  with  a  shade  of  yellow.    The 
dye  bath  is  prepared,  and  the  fabric  dyed,  in 
the  same  manner  as  magenta.     (See  Nos. 
2575,  <fe.)» 

2579.  To  Dye  Aniline  Yellow.    This 
color  is  slightly  soluble  in  water,   and  for 
dyers'  use  may  be  used  directly  for  the  pre- 
paration of  the  dye  bath.    It  is,  however, 
preferably  prepared  in  a  liquid  state,  by  dis- 
solving 1  pound  of  dye  in  2  gallons  of  alcohol. 
(See  No.  2575.)    Without  any  addition  to  the 
dye  bath  very  good  yellows  may  be  produced, 
but  the  color  is  much  improved  and  bright- 
ened   by  a  trace  of  sulphuric    acid.      The 
temperature  of  the  bath  should    be  under 
200°  Pahr. 

2580.  Schiflfs  Aniline  Yellow.    This 
matter,  according  to  Schiff,  is  easily  prepared 
by  means  of  hydrated  antimonic  or  stannic 
acid.    Stannate  of  soda  or  other  alkaline  anti- 
moniate  or  stannate  is  to  be  pounded  with 
half  its  weight  of  aniline  to  a  clear  pulpy 
consistence,  then  hydrochloric  acid  is  added 
till  the  acid  reaction  takes  place.     It  is  then 
shaken  up,  and  the  scarlet  color  removed  by 
etherized  alcohol,  the  mass  being,  of  course, 
previously  dried.    After  proper  purification  it 
is  allowed  to  evaporate  spontaneously,  and  in 
this  way  are  formed  flakes  of  a  hydrochlorate, 
having  for  base  a  red  coloring  matter,  which 
must   not    be    confounded  with    rosaniline. 
When  this  hydrochlorate  is  decomposed  by 
alkalies,   deep    yellow  flakes  are  deposited, 
which  again  become  red  in  presence  of  acids. 
By  impregnating  silk  or  wool  with  this  red 
color,  and  then  passing  it  into  a  hot  solution 
of  carbonate  of  soda,  a  beautiful  yellow  tint 
is  developed,  similar  to  the  yellow  of  picric 
acid,  and  which  M.  Schiff  claims  to  possess 
considerable  stability. 

2581.  To  Dye  with  Aniline  Crimson. 
A  solid  dye,  belonging  to  the  same  series  as 
the  preceding,  is  sold  as  crimson,  but  it  does 
not  appear  to  differ  very  materially  from  ma- 

;enta,  giving  shades  with  a  trifle  less  blue. 

t  is  applied  in  the  same  manner  as  magenta. 
(See  Nos.  2575,  SfC.}  Much  better  colors  are 
obtained  by  the  use  of  aniline  yellow  (see  No. 
2579)  and  magenta.  The  former  may  be  ap- 
plied in  the  manner  indicated  for  that  color, 
and  the  fabric  so  dyed  must  be  passed  through 


24=2 


ANILINE    COLORS. 


a  bath  of  magenta  until  the  required  shade  is 
produced.  By  mixing  the  liquid  yellow  and 
m&genta  dyes  in  a  bath  of  soap-suds,  nearly 
every  shade  from  magenta  to  orange  may  be 
obtained.  This  will  be  found  a  satisfactory 
method  for  amateurs. 

2582.  To  Prepare  Aniline  Scaxlet 
Dye.  To  produce  this  color,  aniline  scarlet 
dye  may  be  used.  Neither  this  nor  coralline 
is  adapted  for  amateur  use,  as  great  exactness 
is  required  in  compounding  the  dye  bath. 
For  the  use  of  amateurs,  aniline  yellow  and 
magenta,  as  indicated  for  crimson  (see  No. 
2581)  is  recommended.  To  produce  scarlet 
the  yellow  should  predominate,  or  the  bath 
may  be  rendered  slightly  sour  by  sulphuric 
acid.  Aniline  scarlet  dissolves  easily  in  wa- 
ter, and  the  bath  may  be  made  directly  from 
the  eolid  substance.  A  liquid  dye  may  be 
made,  if  desired,  by  dissolving  1  pound  scarlet 
in  4  gallons  water  and  1  gallon  alcohol. 

2583.  To  Dye  with  Aniline  Scarlet. 
Add  to  the  bath  containing  the  dye,  an  excess 
of  alum  and  cream  of  tartar ;  neutralize  care- 
fully by  carbonate  of  soda — the  exact  point 
may  be  known  by  the  liquid  changing  from  a 
yellowish  to  a  pinkish  red. 

2584.  To  Dye  Aniline  Scarlet.     For 
every  40  pounds  of  goods,  dissolve  5  pounds 
white  vitriol  (sulphate  of  zinc)  at  180°  Fahr., 
place  the  goods  into  this  bath  for  10  minutes, 
then  add  the  color,  prepared  by  boiling  for  a  few 
minutes,  1  pound  aniline  scarlet  in  3  gallons 
water,  stirring  the  same  continually.    This 
solution  has  to  be  filtered  before  being  added 
to  the  bath.    The  goods  remain  in  the  latter 
for    15    minutes,  when    they  have    become 
browned,  and  must  be  boiled  for  another  half 
hour  in  the  same  bath,  after  the  addition  of 
sal  ammoniac.    The  more  of  this  is  added  the 
redder  the  shade  will  become. 

2585.  To   Prepare    Coralline    Dye. 
Dissolve  1  pound  coralline  in  li  gallons  alco- 
hol specific  gravity  .8200,  by  the  aid  of  heat ; 
mix  the  solution  with  7£  gallons  boiling  wa- 
ter, and  re-dissolve  the  precipitated  dye  by 
the  cautious  addition  of  water  of  ammonia. 

2586.  To  Dye  with  Coralline.     Add 
the  color  prepared  as  in  No.  2585,  to  the  dye 
bath,  and  neutrallize  with  acetic  acid.    The 
exact  point  is  indicated  by  the  pink  color  of 
the  solution  changing  to  an  orange  red.    Im- 
merse the  goods,  and,  when  the  required  color 
is  obtained,  remove  and  wash  in  a  bath  of 
soap-suds. 

2587.  Water-Glass   as  a  Solvent  of 
Coralline.     Dissolve  coralline  in  a  boiling 
mixture  of  1  part  concentrated  water-glass 
(silicate  of  soda  or  potassa  of  the  consistency 
of  a  thick  syrup),  and  4  parts  water,  and,  after 
cooling,  apply  this  solution  as  a  paint  for 
wood  (white  woods  containing  little  or  no 
tannic  acid  are  preferable),  paper,  toys,  artifi- 
cial flower  tissues,  &c.,  to  all  of  which  ma- 
terials  this   solution  of  coralline  imparts   a 
beautiful  carmine  red  tint. 

2588.  Preparation  of  Innoxious  Cor- 
alline.    M.  Guyot  states  that  coralline  is  fre- 
quently poisonous,  because  the  rosolic  acid, 
used  to  obtain  it,  contains  phenol  (carbolic 
acid),  and  this  dangerous  quality  in  the  pro- 
duct can  only  be  avoided  by  using  the  exact 
proportions  necessary,  in  manufacturing  the 
compounds. 


2589.  To  Prepare  Aniline  Brown  for 

Dyeing.  This  color  may  be  used  as  a  liquid 
dye,  and  for  this  purpose  1  pound  of  the  brown 
may  be  dissolved  in  2  gallons  of  spirit  specific 
gravity  8200. 

2590.  To  Dye  with  Aniline  Brown. 
Add  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  dye,  prepared 
according  to  the  previous  receipt,  to  the  dye 
bath,  and  immerse  the  fabric.    "Wool  possesses 
a  very  strong  affinity  for  this  color,  and  no 
mordant  is  required.     A  snuff  brown,  more  or 
less  deep,  is  produced. 

2591.  To  Prepare  Bismarck  Brown 
for  Dyeing.     Mix  together  1  pound   Bis- 
marck, 5  pounds  water,  and  £  pound  sulphuric 
acid.     This  paste  dissolves  easily  in  hot  water 
and  may  be  used  directly  for  dyeing.     A  li- 
quid dye  may  be  prepared  by  making  the  bulk 
of  the  above  mixture  to  2  gallons  with  alcohol. 

2592.  To  Dye  Wool  Bismarck  Brown. 
Bender  the  bath,  prepared  as  in  No.  2591,  sour 
with  sulphuric  acid ;  add  a  quantity  of  sulphate 
of  soda,  immerse  the  wool,  and  add  the  color 
by  small  portions,  keeping  the  temperature 
under  212°   Fahr.     Very  interesting  shades 
may  be  developed  by  combining  the  color  with 
indigo  paste  or  picric  acid.     (See  No.  2601.) 

2593,.  To  Dye  Cotton  Bismarck 
Brown.  Cotton  requires  mordanting  with 
sumach  and  acetate  of  alumina,  and  is  dyed  in 
a  bath  under  100°  Fahr.,  prepared  according 
to  No.  2591.  By  the  use  of  bichromate  of  pot- 
ash redder  shades  may  be  obtained.  The  usual 
color  inclines  to  cinnamon. 

2594.  To  Dye  with  Vesuvine.      This 
aniline  color  is  prepared  and  used  in  the  same 
manner  as  magenta.     (See  No.  2575,  etc.) 

2595.  To  Dye  with  Aurine.    Dissolve 
1  pound  aurine  in   2  gallons  alcohol  specific 
gravity  .8200.     This  color  is  used  .principally 
for  silk.     Dye  in  a  bath  containing  a  trace  of 
sulphuric  acid.     By  combining  with  magenta 
(see  No.  2575),  very  bright  colors  are  produced. 

2596.  To  Dye  with  Palatine  Orange. 
The  palatine  orange  dye  is  prepared  in  a  sim- 
ilar manner  to  magenta.  (See  No.  2575.)   Een- 
der  the  bath  slightly  acid  by  bichloride  of  tin, 
and  dye  at  the  boiling  point.    A  very  fast,  but 
not  very  brilliant    orange  is  produced.     The 
color  may  be  combined  with  magenta  or  indigo 
paste. 

2597.  To    Dye    with    Phosphine. 
Phosphine  is  treated  in  the  same  way  as  pala- 
tine, omitting  the  sulphuric  acid,  and  substi- 
tuting a  trace  of  carbonate  of  soda;  or  jjse  a 
soap  bath. 

2598.  To    Dye    Silk    with    Aniline 
Green.     Iodine   green,   or   night  green,  dis- 
solves easily  in  warm  water.     For  a  liquid 
dye,  1  pound  may  be  dissolved  in  1  gallon  al- 
cohol, and  mixed  with  2  gallons  of  water  con- 
taining 1  ounce  sulphuric  acid.     This  color  is 
almost  always  a  failure  in  the  hands  of  the 
amateur,  and  is  not  recommended.     For  silk, 
no  addition  to  the  dye  bath  is  required,  the 
temperature  being  kept  under  180°  Fahr. 

2599.  To  Dye  Wool  with  Aniline 
Green.  For  wool,  prepare  two  baths,  one 
containing  the  dissolved  dye  and  a  quantity  of 
carbonate  of  soda,  or  borax.  In  this  the  wool 
is  placed,  and  the  temperature  raised  to  212° 
Fahr.  A  grayish  green  shade  is  produced, 
which  must  be  brightened  and  fixed  in  a  sec- 
ond bath  of  water  at  100°  Fahr.,  to  which 


ANILINE    COLORS. 


24:3 


some  acetic  acid  has  been  added.     Cotton  re- 
quires preparation  by  sumach.    (See  No.  2577.) 

2600.  To  Dye  with   Iodine  Green. 
Mis  3  pounds  of  iodine  green  paste  well  with 
about  2$  pounds  of  cold  water ;  then  add  suc- 
cessively, 1  pound  acetic  acid  8°  Baum6,  80 
pounds  water  of  a  temperature  of  140°  Fahr, 
and  2  pounds  liquor  ammonia,   stirring  the 
mixture  well  all  the  while,  and  filtering  it 
before  use.    Bring  the  dye  bath  to  the  boil- 
ing point ;  put  in  as  much  of  the  solution  as  is 
necessary  for  the  shade  required,  and  dye  for 
half  an  hour,  letting  the  bath  cool  off  in  the 
meantime.      Then  have  a  second  water  bath 
of  140°  Fahr.  ready,  prepared  as  follows,  viz. : 
For  every  20  pounds  of  wool,  add  £  pound  sul- 
phuric  acid   66°    Baum6,  and   -J  pound  per- 
chloride   of  tin  crystals,  the  latter  previously 
dissolved  in  an  equal  quantity  of  water.    Take 
the  goods  from  the  first  bath,  without  washing, 
into  the  second  bath,  turn  them  in  it  for  15 
minutes,  and  the  green  will  develop  vividly. 
For  yellowish  tints,  shade  off  with  picric  acid 
(see  No.  2601),  which  must  be  added  to  the 
second    bath    and    dyed    quickly.     By    this 
method,  1  pound  of  iodine  green  paste  will 
dye  12  pounds  of  wool  a  medium  shade.     Pre- 
serve the  first  bath,  inasmuch  as  one-third  of 
the  dye  remains  in  it,  which  circumstance  is 
important  in  renewing  the  bath,  which  will, 
consequently,  require  one-third  less  dye-stuff 
when  making  it  for  the  second  lot. 

2601.  To  Dye  with  Picric  Acid.     Dis- 
solve 1  pound  picric  acid  in  1  gallon  of  alcohol 
specific  gravity  .8200.    The  dye  bath  requires 
no  addition,  or  special  precaution.     This  color 
is  used  to  produce  shades  of  lemon  and  canary 
which  cannot  be  attained  by  the  aniline  yellow 
or  phosphine.     Its  chief  use  is  for  dyeing 
green.      For    this    purpose    pass    the  fabric 
through  a  bath  containing  sulphuric  acid  and 
alum,   adding,    after  thorough   immersion,  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  solution  of  picric  acid 
and  indigo  extract  (see  No.  99)  to  produce  the 
desired  shade. 

2602.  To  Dye  with  Aniline  Blue.  To 
100  pounds  of  fabric  dissolve  1£  pounds  of  ani- 
line   blue  in  3  quarts    hot    alcohol;    strain 
through  a  filter,  and  add  it  to  a  bath  of  130° 
Fahr.,  also  10  pounds  Glauber's  salts  and  5 
pounds  acetic  acid.      Enter  the   goods,   and 
handle  them  well  for  20  minutes ;  next  heat  it 
slowly  to  200°  Fahr. ;  then  add  5  pounds  sul- 
phuric acid  diluted  with  water.    Let  the  whole 
boil  20  minutes  longer,   then  rinse  and  dry. 
If  the  aniline  be  added  in  two  or  three  propor- 
tions during  the  process  of  coloring,  it  will 
facilitate  the  evenness  of  the  color.    The  blue, 
or  red  shade  of  blue,  is  governed  by  the  kind 
of  aniline  used,  as,  there  is  a  variety  in  the 
market.     Hard  and  close-wove  fabrics,   such 
as  braid,  ought  to  be  prepared  in  a  boiling  solu- 
tion of  10  pounds  sulphuric  acid  and  2  pounds 
tartaric  acid  before  coloring  with  the  aniline, 
as  this  will  make  the  fabric  more  susceptible 
to  the  color.    Blues  soluble  in  water  color 
more  easily  than  those  which  have  to  be  dis- 
solved in  alcohol. 

2603.  To  Dye  Silk  or  Wool  with  Ani- 
line Blue.     In  this  manner  are  used  the  va- 
rieties of  aniline  blues  known  as  Bleu  de  Lyon, 
Pure  Blue.  Red  Blue,  and  all  others  soluble  in 
alcohol,     into  a  stone  jar  fitted  with  a  cover, 
through  which  a  hole  is  made  to  admit  a  stick 


for  stirring,  putl  pound  of  the  dye,  5  gallons  al- 
cohol specific  gravity  .8200,  and  2  ounces  sul- 
phuric acid;  apply  the  heat  of  a  water  bath 
and  stir  frequently.  After  allowing  the  mix- 
ture to  cool,  filter,  and  treat  any  undissolved 
residue  with  fresh  alcohol  until  complete  so- 
lution is  effected.  From  5  to  8  gallons  will  be 
required.  The  dye  bath  for  wool  should  be 
rendered  sour  by  sulphuric  acid.  Tin  crystals 
may  be  used,  in  quantity  equal  to  about  ^ 
the  weight  of  the  wool,  to  improve  the  viva- 
city of  the  shade.  The  bath  should  be  brought 
to  the  boiling  point.  For  silk,  prepare  a  soap 
bath,  add  the  color,  and  put  in  the  goods. 
"When  dyed  sufficiently,  pass  through  a  bath 
acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid. 

2604.  To  Dye  Cotton  with  Aniline 
Blue.      Cotton  is  prepared  as  for  magenta 
(see  No.  2577),  and  dyed  in  an  acid  bath  as  for 
wool.     (See  No.  2603.) 

2605.  To   Dye  with  Aniline  Water- 
Blue.     This  color  is  quite  soluble  in  water, 
and  will  answer  well  for  preparing  a  liquid 
dye;  1  pound  may  be  dissolved  in  a  mixture 
of  1  gallon  alcohol  and  4  gallons  water.   Dyers 
dissolve  the  powder  in  the  dye  bath.    The  dye 
is  used  in  the  same  way  as  Blende  Lyon.  (See 
No.  2603.) 

2606.  To  Dye  with  Alkali  Blue  and 
Nicholson's  Blue.     Dissolve  1  pound  of  the 
dye  in  10  gallons  boiling  water.    Add  this,  by 
small  portions,  to  the  dye  bath,  which  should 
be  rendered  alkaline  by  borax.    The  fabric 
should  be  well  worked  about  between  each 
addition  of  the  color ;  the  temperature  must 
be  kept  under  212°  Fahr.     If  the  right  pro- 
portion of  borax  has  been  used  the  goods  will 
show  but  little  color  when  removed  from  the 
bath.    To  develop  this,  wash  with  water  and 
pass  through  a  bath  containing  sulphuric  acid. 

2607.  To  Dye  with   Aniline   Violet 
and  Purple.     The  various  aniline  purples 
known  as  Parme,  Violet  de  Fuchsin,  Victoria 
Violet,  and  Amaranth,  are  used  in  the  same 
manner  as  Bleu  de  Lyon  (see  No.  2603),  omit- 
ting the  sulphuric  acid.     Acidulate  the  bath  by 
sulphuric  acid,  or  use  sulphate  of  soda ;  both 
these    substances    render  the  shade    bluish. 
Dye  at  212°.    To  give  a  fair  middle  shade  to 
10  pounds  of  wool,  a  quantity  of  solution 
equal  to  -J-  to  f  ounce  of  the  solid  dye  will  be 
required.     The  color  of  the  dyed  fabric  is  im- 
proved by  washing  in  soap  and  water,  and 
then  passing  through  a  bath  soured  by  sul- 
phuric acid.     According  to  Mr.  Hirsch,  cotton 
is  treated  as  follows:   Prepare  the  goods  for 
fuchsine,  and  turn  them  over  a  few  times  in  a 
tepid  solution  of  2£  ounces  crystallized  per- 
chloride  of  tin,  for  every  10  pounds  of  goods. 
Kemove  the  latter,  add  as  much  violet  solu- 
tion as  the  shade  requires,  dye  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  wring  well,  and  dry.     Washing  in  a 
solution  of  alum  and  starch  will  render  the 
color  more  solid. 

2608.  To  Dye  with  Hoffman's  Purple. 
The  dye  is  prepared  as  other  purples.     (See 
No.  2607.)     Some  authorities  maintain  that 
this  color  does  not  require  the  addition  of  acid 
to  the  dye  bath,  but  the  color  is  apt  to  rub 
off  when  dyed  in  this  manner.      A  trace  of 
tartar,  or  of  tartaric,  oxalic,  or  any  vegetable 
acid  may  be  used  with  advantage ;  but  min- 
eral acids  are  to  be  particularly  avoided.    The 
bath  should  be  kept  at  a  boiling  temperature. 


24=4= 


LIQUID    COLORS. 


2609.  To  Dye  Woolens  Blue  with 

Aniline.  To  the  water  in  the  vat  sulphuric 
acid  is  added  in  sufficient  quantity  to  cause  it 
to  taste  as  acid  as  vinegar ;  it  is  then  brought 
to  boiling,  and  kept  so  for  10  minutes ;  some 
blue  aniline  liquor  is  then  added  with  stirring; 
the  goods  are  submerged,  and  kept  under 
while  boiling  until  the  water  has  lost  its 
color;  after  which  they  are  removed,  fresh 
liquor  is  added,  and  the  process  continued 
until  the  desired  color  has  been  given,  the  wa- 
ter being  kept  constantly  at  a  boil.  (See  No. 
333.) 

2610.  To  Dye  Silk  Blue  with.  Aniline. 
Silk  is  steeped  first  for  an  hour  in  lukewarm 
water,  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid,  as  for 
woolens  in  the  last  receipt,  and  the  color  must 
be  added  in  4  to  5  small  portions,  raising  the 
temperature  gradually  to  boiling,  and  contin- 
uing it  at  that,  when  a  good  color  has  been 
obtained,  for  some  5  to  10  minutes.     The  old 
bath  is  then  replaced  by  fresh  water,  which  is 
acidified  with  sulphuric  acid,  and  in  which 
the  silk  is  boiled  for  10  minutes ;  after  which 
it  is  thoroughly  washed  in  water  and  then  in 
suds,  afterwards  again  in  water,  then  once 
more  drawn  through  acidulated  water,  and 
lastly  through  water  alone.     (See  No.  333.) 

2611.  To  Dye  Silks  or  Woolens  Vio- 
let or  Purple  with  Aniline.     Yiolets  and 
purples  are  produced  on  wool  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  blue ;  on  silk  the  same  method 
is  used  likewise,  but  the  water  must  only  be 
heated  short  of  boiling.     (See  Nos.  315  and 
316.) 

2612.  Jacobson's  Method  of  Com- 
bining Fat  and  Oil  with  Aniline  Bed. 
The  following  process  is  given  for  this  purpose 
by  Dr.  E.  Jacobson.    First  separate  rosan- 
iline from  commercial  fuchsine  by  heating 
with  soda  or  digestion  with  ammonia ;  wash 
and  dry  it.    An  oleate  or  stearate  of  rosani- 
line  is  next  obtained  by  adding  the  rosaniline 
to  oleic  acid  or  melted  stearic  acid  as  long  as 
it  will  dissolve,  or  by  putting  them  together 
in  equivalent  proportions.    An  excess  of  oleic 
acid  must  be  avoided  when  the  compound  is 
required  for  a  varnish,  as  it  delays  the  drying. 
Oleate  or  stearate  of  rosaniline  easily  dissolves 
in  fats  or  oils,  and  colors  these  an  intense  red. 
If  it  is  wanted  for  a  linseed  oil  varnish,  the 
linseed  oil  must  be  free  from  lead.    The  com- 
pound must  be  kept  from  the  fire,  or  it  soon 
turns  blue,  probably  by  the  reducing  action 
of  the  fatty  acids.    The  best  red  color  is  ob- 
tained in  linseed  oil  varnish.     Stearine  with 
oleate  or  stearate  of  rosaniline  appears  a  blu- 
ish red.    Paraffine  appears  to  act  as  a  reduc- 
ing agent  with  the  compounds  of  fatty  acids 
and  aniline,  and  changes  to  a  dirty  violet 
color;  the  mixture  then  is  inapplicable  to  the 
coloring  of  parafiine  or  stearine  candles.     The 

f  oleate  or  stearate  of  rosaniline  is  a  good  color- 
ing agent  for  hair  oil  or  pomatum,  but,  from 
the  instability  of  the  color,  seems  inapplicable 
for  oil  painting. 

2613.  Dyeing  with  Fuchsine  on  Wool 
or  Silk.  Fuchsine  (the  crystals  of  acetate  of 
rosaniline),  or  .the  solution,  is  mixed  with  cold 
water  for  silk,  or  in  water  of  130°  to  140° 
Fahr.  for  wool,  which  temperature  is  kept  up. 
For  silk,  a  few  drops  of  acetic  acid  are  also 
added.  The  strength  of  the  dye  regulates 
the  quantity  which  is  required.  The  goods 


are  merely  immersed  in  the  bath  until  they 
have  taken  up  sufficient  of  the  color ;  it  is  not 
always  advisable  to  work  them  about  while  in 
the  bath. 


Colors  for  Various 

J— I  PTirpOSeS.  These  receipts  in-.  ; 
elude  the  preparation  and  appliance  of  such 
liquid  colors  as  are  used  to  tinge  or  impart 
color  to  matter  generally.  Their  particular 
uses  and  appliances  are  specified  in  the  receipt 
given  for  each  preparation.  In  addition  to 
those  here  given,  a  number  of  other  receipts 
for  coloring  matter  have  been  necessarily  in- 
cluded under  the  respective  headings  of  the 
special  objects  for  which  they  are  used, 
and  will  be  readily  found  by  consulting  the 
index. 

2615.  Soluble  Prussian  Blue.  Add 
a  solution  of  protosulphate  of  iron  to  a  solution 
of  prussiate  of  potash,  and  expose  the  precipi- 
tate to  the  air  till  it  becomes  blue,  and  wash  it 
till  the  soluble  salts  are  washed  away.  By 
continuing  the  washing,  the  blue  itself  dis- 
solves, forming  a  deep  blue  solution,  which 
may  be  evaporated  without  decomposition. 
Or,  add  a  solution  of  persulphate  of  iron  to  a 
solution  of  ferroprussiate  of  potash,  keeping 
the  latter  in  excess;  wash  the  precipitate 
until  it  begins  to  dissolve,  and  dry  it.  (See 
No.  2488  for  another  method.) 

2616.  Chemique,  or  Chexnic   Blue. 
Sulphate  of  Indigo.     To  7  or  8  parts  of  oil  of 
vitriol,  in  a  glass  or  earthen  vessel,  placed  in 
cold  water,  add  gradually  1  part  of  fine  indigo 
in  powder,  stirring  the  mixture  at  each  addi- 
tion with  a  glass  rod  or  piece  of  tobacco-pipe. 
Cover  the  vessel  for  24  hours,  then  dilute  with 
an  equal  weight  of  water.     Sometimes  it  is 
sold  without  diluting.     The  German  fuming 
acid  answers  best,  4  or  5  parts  of  it  being  suf- 
ficient for  1  of  indigo.     For  dyeing  silk,  <fecv 
carbonate  of  potash,   soda,   or  ammonia,   is 
added,  to  neutralize  the  acid,  taking  care  not 
to  add  it  in  excess.     (See  Nos.  98  and  4791.) 

2617.  Liefchild's   Patent   Blue   for 
Linen.     Mix  4  parts  Chinese  blue,  1  of  Turn- 
bull's  blue,  and  1  of  oxalic  acid ;  gradually  add 
boiling  water  until  the  whole  is  dissolved,  and 
lastly  4  parts  of  sulphate  of  indigo.     The  lat- 
ter is  made  with  1  part  indigo,  and  4  sulphuric 
acid,  neutralized  with  carbonate  of  ammonia. 

2618.  Blue  for  Linen.     The    ordinary 
kinds  of  cake  blue  consist  of  indigo  and  starch. 

2619.  Solvents  for  Indigo.   Indigo  will 
dissolve  in  Yenice  turpentine  heatM   to  its 
boiling  point,  or  in  boiling  parafiine.  with  the 
same  blue  color  as  the  solution  of  sulphuric 
acid;  and  in  petroleum  it  forms  a  carmine  so- 
lution, while  in  spermaceti  it  produces  a  car- 
mine-violet, and  in  stearic  acid  a  blue  color. 

2620.  Bluing   for    Clothes.     Take    1 
ounce  of  soft  Prussian  blue,  powder  it  and  put 
in  a  bottle  with  !•  quart  of  clear  rain  water, 
and  add  J  ounce  of  oxalic  acid.  A  tea-spoonful 
is  sufficient  for  a  large  washing. 

2621.  Purified  Annotto.     To  a  boiling 
solution  of  pearlash  add  as  much  annotto  as  it 
will  dissolve.    "When  cold,  decant  the  clear 
solution,  and  neutralize  with  diluted  sulphuric 
acid,  avoiding  any  excess.     "Wash  the  precipi- 
tate with  a  little  cold  water,  and  dry  it. 


LIQUID    COLORS. 


24,5 


2622.  Solution  of  Annotto.    Boil  equal 
weights  of  annotto  and  pearlask  with,  water, 
and  dilute  to  the  required  color. 

2623.  Cochineal    Coloring.      Take    1 
ounce  each  powered  cochineal,  carbonate  of 
potash,  bitartrate  of  potash,   and  alum;  boil 
these  in  a  glazed  vessel  with  7  ounces  water 
and  1  ounce  spirit  of  wine,  until  effervescence 
ceases  (about  10  minutes).  In  this  liquid  dis- 
solve an  equal  weight  of  refined  sugar  by 
means  of  sufficient  heat,  and  set  aside  for  use. 
This  coloring  remains  bright  for  any  length  of 
time,  does  not  throw  down  any  precipitate, 
and  is   almost  unalterable    by   contact  with 
either  acids  or  alkalies,  which  is  no  small  ad- 
vantage.   Dickson's  coloring  has  some  disad- 
vantages in  the  large  quantity  of  spirit  and  the 
delicacy  of  the  ammonia  tint.    The  first  would 
have  a  tendency  to  cause  a  cloudy  appearance 
in  bright  jellies  and  other  preparations  con- 
taining gelatine,  and  the  ammonia  color  would 
be  liable  to   be    completely  changed    when 
brought  in  contact  with  lemon  juice,  baked 
pears,  and  other  acids  met  with  in  the  many 
culinary  purposes  for  which    the   article    is 
largely  used. 

2624.  Dickson's  Cochineal  Coloring. 
Mix  together  2  ounces  spirit  of  wine  and  6 
ounces  water.     In  3  ounces  of  this  mixture  in- 
fuse 1  ounce  powdered  cochineal  for  15  min- 
utes, in  a  flask  heated  to  nearly  boiling  point. 
Pour  the  infusion  into  another  vessel,  and  re- 
peat the  process  with  3  ounces  more  of  the 
mixed  spirit  and  water ;  and  a  third  time,  with 
the  remaining  2  ounces.     Let  the  liquid  stand 
till  cold,  when  some  fatty  matter  will  rise  to 
the  surface ;  filter,  adding  spirit  and  water,  up 
to  eight  fluid  ounces.     Lastly,  add  sufficient 
strong  water  of  ammonia  to  change  the  infu- 
sion to  the  desired  tint.    The  coloring  is  thus 
prepared  without  carbonate  of  potash,  alum, 
etc.,  and  is  free  from  the  objections  that  at- 
tach to  the  coloring  obtained  by  the  aid  of 
those  substances.    (See  last  receipt.)     These 
objections  are: — 1st,  the  coloring  matter  is 
thrown  down  as  a  lake,  and  after  some  time 
forms  a  layer  at  the  bottom  of  the  containing 
vessel,  requiring  the  addition  of  ammonia  to 
re-dissolve  and  keep  it  in  solution ;  and — 2d, 
it  does  not  keep  well.     On  the  other  hand,  the 
advantages  of  Dickson's  preparation  are  : — 1st, 
the  coloring-matter  remains  in  solution,  and 
— 2d,  it  keeps  well,  and  has  no  unpleasant 
odor. 

2625.  Cochineal  Coloring.     Macerate 
1  ounce  best  carmine  in  6  ounces  strong  solu- 
tion of  ammonia,  until  it  is  dissolved.     Heat 
gently  to  drive  off  excess  of  ammonia,  taking 
care  not  to  carry  it  too  far,  so  as  to  precipitate 
the  carmine.     Put  into  a  quart  wine  bottle, 
and  add  4  ounces  rectified  spirit  and  3  pounds 
white  sugar.     Pill  up  with  warm  water,  and 
shake  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.     This  is  a 
splendid  coloring. 

2626.  Black  Lustre  Color  for  Paper, 
Cloth,  or  Wood..     Dr.  Kielrneyer  gives  a  re- 
ceipt which  is  adapted  for  either  paper,  cloth, 
or  porous  wood.     He  states  thatit  stands  well,' 
is  very  supple,  and  has  no  tendency  to  get 
sticky.     To  prepare  it,  boil  together  8  pounds 
glue,  previously  dissolved  in  10  pounds  water ; 
1  pound  potato  starch,  dissolved  in  5i  pounds 
water;  5£  pounds  campeachy  extract  of  6° 
Baume ;  1  pound  2  ounces  green  vitriol,  and 


8£  pounds  brown  glycerine.  "When  thoroughly 
mixed,  remove  the  pot  from  the  fire,  and  con- 
tinue to  stir  until  the  liquid  is  cold.  If  the 
paiut  be  desired  thicker  or  thinner,  the  amount 
of  starch  and  glue  must  be  varied  as  well  as 
the  other  materials,  or  the  lustre  will  suffer. 

2627.  Black  Produced  by  the  Mixture 
of  Colorless  Liquids.     One  of  the  most  in- 
teresting phenomena   in    the    operations    of 
chemistry  occurs  in  the  decomposition  of  sul- 
phate of  iron  by  gallic  acid.  Into  a  wine-glass, 
containing  the  infusion  of  galls,  pour  a  solution 
of  the  sulphate  of  iron.     The  gallic  acid,  from 
its  superior  elective  affinity  to  the  iron,  de- 
taches it  from  its  former  combination  with  the 
sulphuric  acid,  and  in  a  short  time  these  two 
fluids,  previously  colorless,  become  intensely 
black.    To  make  this  black  fluid  into  ink, 
nothing  but  a  little  gum  is  required,  to  retard 
the  precipitation  of  the  coloring  matter. 

2628.  To  Make  Liquid  Blue.      Put 
into  a  bottle  1  ounce  pure  Prussian  blue,  in 
fine  powder,  and  pour  upon  it  2  ounces  con- 
centrated   hydrochloric    acid.     Effervescence 
ensues,  and  the  mixture  soon  assumes  the 
consistence  of  a  thin  paste.     Leave  it  for  24 
hours,   and  then  dilute  with  8  or  9   ounces 
water,   and  bottle  it.      The  whole  may  be 
further  diluted  with  a  quart  of  water  and  still 
retain'  a  sufficiently  dark  color  for  washing 
muslins,  etc.     The  common  blue  writing  fluid 
is  thus  prepared. 

2629.  Carmine   Purple.     The  dye  re- 
cently invented,  and  known  as  carmine  purple, 
is  obtained  by  the   solution  of  uric  acid  in 
nitric  acid,  care  being  taken  to  prevent  boil- 
ing over  and  too  great  an  increase  of  temper- 
ature.    The  mixture  should  remain  standing 
quietly  for  some  days,  after  which  a  thick, 
pasty,  or  doughy  substance  is  obtained,  which 
is  to  be  treated  with  warm  water,  filtered,  and 
the  residuum  again  treated  with  warm  water. 
The  filtered  liquid  possesses  a  reddish  or  yel- 
lowish color,  resulting  from  the  organic  sub- 
stances decomposed  by  the  nitric  acid.     It  is 
next  to  be  evaporated  in  a  large  enameled 
iron  vessel,  but  not  heated  to  the  boiling 
point,   which  would    destroy    the    rnurexide 
(carmine  purple)  produced.     After  the  liquid 
has  been  evaporated  to  a  syrupy  consistency, 
and  has  assumed  a  beautiful  brownish-red  or 
violet  color,  it  is  to  be  allowed  to  cool.     The 
entire  quantity  of  the  liquid  should  never  be 
evaporated  at  one  time,  nor  heated  to  the  boil- 
ing point. 

2630.  To  Color  with  Alkanet  Boot. 
Anchusa  Tinctoria  gives  a  fine  red  tinge  to 
oils,  fats,  wax,  turpentine,  spirits,  essences, 
etc.,  and  is  used  to  color  hair  oil,  pomatums, 
ointments,  varnishes,  etc.     The  spirituous  so- 
lution stains  marble  of  a  deep  red  ;  wax  tinged 
with  alkanet  and  applied  to  warm  marble, 
leaves  a  fresh  color. 

2631.  To  Color  with  Mallow  or  Malva 
Flowers.     The  mallow  or  rnalva  flower  is  a 
native   of  Europe,   growing    abundantly    on 
waste  grounds  and  by  the  waysides.     It  isi 
also    sometimes   cultivated  in  this   country.,) 
This  flower,  which  gives  a  beautiful  color  to 
water,  is   used  for  coloring  port  and  claret 
wines,  and  it  is  considered  one  of  the  best  ar- 
ticles that  can  be  employed  for  that  purpose. 
Weigh  2  pounds,  and  steep  the  red  petals  in 
cold  water  for  5  or  6  hours.    Tartaric  acid 


LIQUID    COLORS. 


mixed  with  the  mallow  gives  a  bright  red  I  the  coloring  of  toilet  soap.     Of  all  the  agents 


color,  and  salt  of  tartar  (carbonate  of  potassa) 
a  deep  purple  red. 

2632.  To  Purify  Caramel.     The  cara- 
mel of  commerce  is  spirit  coloring,  or  a  solu- 
tion of  burnt  sugar  in  water.     (See  No.  694.) 
In  this  state  it  is  mixed  with  variable  quanti- 
ties of  undecomposed  sugar  and  certain  bitter 
compounds.   To  render  it  quite  pure,  it  should 
be  dissolved  iu  water,  filtered,   and  alcohol 
added  until  it  ceases  to  produce  a  precipitate. 
The  caramel  is  thus  thrown  down,  while  the 
impurities  remain  in  solution.     Pure  caramel 
is  a  black  or  dark  brown  powder,  soluble  in 
water,  to  which  it  gives  a  rich  sepia  tint;  it  is 
insoluble  in  alcohol,  and  incapable  of  ferment- 
ation. 

2633.  Blue  Dye  from  Molybdenum. 
According  to  late  experiments  by   Professor 
Boettger,  based  upon  some  previous  researches 
of  Dr.  Schonn,  if  molybdic  acid  be  dissolved 
to  saturation  in  concentrated  sulphuric  acid 
with  heat,  an  uncolored  clear  fluid  is  obtained, 
forming  a  double  acid  of  sulphuric  and  molyb- 
dic acid.     If  a  little  of  this  double  acid  be 
placed  in  a  porcelain  dish  and  heated  till  it 
begins  to  throw  off  white  vapors,  and  then  a 
certain  quantity  of  absolute  alcohol  be  gradu- 
ally added,  a  beautiful  blue  color  is  developed, 
as  if  by  magic,  by  means  of  which  silk  can  be 
dyed  without  the  use  of  any  mordant. 

2634.  Mordants.     Substances  employed 
to  fix  the  coloring  matters  of  dye-stuffs  on 
organic  fibres,  and  to  give  them  brilliancy  and 
permanency.     This  they  effect,  either  by  their 
strong  affinity  for  the  fibre  and  the  dye  matter, 
serving  as  a  bond  of  union  between  the  two, 
or  by  uniting  with,  and  rendering  insoluble, 
the  dye  contained  in  the  pores  of  the  fibre. 
The  principal  mordants  are  alum,  and  the 
oxides  of  iron  or  tin.     (See  No.  93.) 

2635.  To  Color  Butter.     Pureannotto, 
when  properly  prepared,  is  very  successfully 
used  for  imparting  a  good  color  to  fall  and 
winter  butter.     (See  No.  2621.)    Annotto  of 
course  adds  nothing  to  the  flavor  or  quality 
of  butter,  but  as  the  pure  article,  when  thus 
employed  for  coloring,  is  quite  harmless,  there 
can  be  no  serious  objection  to  its  use.    In 
coloring  butter  with  annotto  it  is  important 
that  a  prime  article  be  used,  and  to  have  it 
prepared   so  that  it  shall  be  free  from  sedi- 
ment and  adulteration. 

2636.  To  Color  Pickles  and  Sweet- 
meats Green.     A  beautiful  green  color,  en- 
tirely destitute  of  any  poisonous  qualities,  may 
be  made  by  dissolving  5  grains  saffron  in  J 
ounce  distilled  water,  and  in  another  vessel 
dissolving  4  grains  indigo  carmine  in  \  ounce 
distilled  water.     After  shaking  each  up  thor- 
oughly they  are  allowed  to  stand  for  24  hours, 
and  on  being  mixed  together  at  the  expiration 
of  that  time  a  fine  green  solution  is  obtained, 
capable  of  coloring  5  pounds  of  sugar. 

2637.  Chameleon  Mineral.    Mix  equal 
weights  of  black   oxide  of  manganese  and 
pure  potash,  and  heat  them  in  a  crucible. 
Keep  the  compound  in  closely-stoppered  bot- 
tles.    A  solution  of  it  in  water  passes  through 
Various  shades  of  color  from  green  to  red. 

2638.  Cadmium  Yellow  Color  for 
Soap.  The  chemical  works  of  Sobering,  in 
Berlin,  have  introduced  two  shades  of  sulphide 
of  cadmium,  a  lemon  and  orange  yellow,  for 


thus  far  tried  to  give  a  lively  yellow  color  to 
soap,  sulphide  of  cadmium  (cadmium  yellow) 
has  proved  the  most  permanent.  Age  and 
sunlight  do  not  affect  the  color,  and  the  quan- 
tity required  is  exceedingly  small. 

'2639.  To  Color  Soap  Yellow  with 
Cadmium.  The  cadmium  yellow  (see  above) 
is  rubbed  up  with  oil,  and  added  to  the  soap 
under  constant  stirring.  The  color  is  not  dis- 
solved in  the  soap,  but  suspended  in  it,  and 
much  depends  upon  careful  mixing. 

2640.  Liquid  Colors.     The  following, 
when  thickened  with  a  little  gum,  are  used  as 
inks  for  writing,  as  colors  to  tint  maps,  foils,  pa- 
per, artificial  flowers,  &c.,  and  to  paint  on 
velvet.     Some  of  them  are  very  beautiful.     It 
must  be  observed,  however,  that  those  made 
with  strong  spirit  do  not  mix  well  with  gum, 
unless  dilutee!  with  water. 

2641.  Liquid  Blue.     Dissolve  litmus  in 
water,  and  add  £  of  spirit  of  wine.    Or,  dilute 
Saxon  blue  or  sulphate  of  indigo  with  water. 
If  required  for  delicate  work,  neutralize  the 
acid  with  chalk.    Or,  to  an  aqueous  infusion  of 
litmus  add  a  few  drops  of  vinegar  till  it  turns 
full  blue. 

2642.  Liquid  Purple.     Steep  litmus  in 
water,  and  strain.    Or,  add  a  little  alum  to  a 
strained  decoction  of  logwood.    Or,  add  a  solu- 
tion of  carmine  (red)  to  a  little  blue  solution 
of  litmus  or  Saxon  blue. 

2643.  Liquid  Green.     Dissolve  crystal- 
lized  verdigris  in  water.     Or,    dissolve   sap 
green  in  water,  and  add  a  little  alum.    Or,  add 
a  little  salt  of  tartar  to  a  blue  or  purple  solu- 
tion of  litmus,  till  it  turns  green.    Or,  dissolve 
equal  parts  of  crystallized  verdigris  and  cream 
of  tartar  in  water,  and  add  a  little  gum-arabic. 
Used  as  an  ink  for  writing. 

2644.  Liquid  Yellow.     Disso'lve  gam- 
boge in  water,  and  add  a  little  gum-arabic  and 
alum.     Used  for  ink,   to   stain  paper,  color 
maps,  &c.     Or,   dissolve   gamboge  in   equal 
parts  of  proof  spirit  and  water.     Golden  col- 
ored.    Or,  steep  French  berries  in  hot  water, 
strain,  and  add  a  little  gum  and  alum.     Or, 
steep  turmeric,  round  zedoary,    gamboge,  or 
annotto,  in  spirits  of  wine.     Or,  dissolve  an- 
notto in  a  weak  lye  of  subcarbonate  of  soda 
or  potash.    The  above  are  used  by  artificial 
florists. 

2645.  Liquid    Red.     Macerate  ground 
Brazil  in  vinegar,  boil  a  few  minutes,  strain, 
and  add  a  little  alum  and  gum.     Or,  add  vine- 
gar to  an  infusion  of  litmus  till  it  turns  red. 
Or,  boil  or  infuse  powdered  cochineal  in  water; 
strain,  and  add  a  little  alum  and  gum.     Or, 
dissolve  carmine  in  liquor  of  ammonia,  or  iu. 
weak  carbonate  of  potash  water ;  the  former 
is  superb.     (See  No.  2623,  <fc.) 

2646.  To  Tint  Maps  or  Architects' 
Plans.     Maps,  paper,  or  architects'  plans  may 
be  tinted  with  any  of  the  simple  liquid  colors 
just  mentioned.     To  prevent  the  colors  sink- 
ing and  spreading,  which  they  will  usually  do 
on  common  paper,  the  latter  should  be  wetted 
2  or  3  times  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  alum 
water  (3  or  4  ounces  to  the  pint),  or  a  solu- 
tion of  white  size ;  observing  to  dry  it  care- 
fully after  each  coat.     This  will  tend  to  give 
lustre  and  beauty  to  the  colors.     The  colors 
themselves    should  also  be  thickened    with 
gum.     Before  varnishing  maps  after  coloring 


LIQUID    COLORS. 


24=7 


them,  2  or  3  coats  of  clean  size  should  be  ap- 
plied with  a  brush. 

2647.  Sizing  for  Prints  or  Engravings 
to  be   Colored.     Dissolve  4  ounces    finest 
pale  glue,  and  4  ounces  white  curd  soap,  in  3 
pints  boiling  water ;  add  2  ounces  powdered 
alum.     "Used  for  sizing  prints  and  engravings 
before  coloring  them. 

2648.  Druggists'  Show  Colors.    These 
are   bright  and  perfectly  transparent  liquid 
colors,  employed  by  druggists  in  ornamental 
bottles  for  purposes  of  display,  forming  an  at- 
tractive and  distinctive  ornament  of  a  drug 
store  window.     It  has  for  a  long  time  been 
tried   to  render  the  beautiful  colors  of  per- 
manganates more  permanent.     They  are  liable 
to  decompose  under  the  influence  of  light  and 
atmospheric  dust,  and  no  way  has  as  yet  been 
discovered  to  obviate  this  difficulty.    Many 
druggists  have  proposed  to  fill  the  bottles  in 
their  windows  with  solutions  of  aniline  colors, 
but  even  these  have  to  be  renewed  from  time 
to  time.     Neutral  metallic   salts,  that  have 
neither  tendency  to  oxydize  nor  to  reduce,  are 
best  employed  for  this  purpose.    The  receipts 
here  given  are  among  the  very  best  and  most 
used  for  this  purpose.     The  mixtures  require 
careful  filtration  through  powdered  glass  in  a 
glass  funnel.    It  will  be  found  desirable  to 
make  a  little  more  liquid  color  than  is  actually 
required,  to  replace  the  loss  occasioned  by  a 
second  filtration  (performed  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  first),  which  will  probably  be  ne- 
cessary after  exposure  for  a  few  weeks  to  the 
light :  as  any  addition  of  water  after  filtra- 
tion,  to  make  up  the  deficiency,   tends  to 
weaken  the  color  and  detract  from  its  bright- 
ness.    Druggists'  show-bottles  are  now  made 
of  colored  glass,  and  filled  with  pure  water. 
These  are  just  as  effective  as  the  white  glass 
bottles  filled  with  colored  waters,  and  obvious- 
ly involve  much  less  trouble. 

2649.  Amber.     Digest  1  part  dragon's 
blood,   coarsely  powdered,  in  4  parts  oil  of 
vitriol ;    when    completely    dissolved,   dilute 
with  distilled  or  soft  water  to  the  desired 
shade,  and  filter.     (See  No.  2648.) 

2650.  Indigo  Blue.     Dissolve  indigo  in 
sulphuric  acid,  and  dilute  with  pure  water  to 
the  required  shade  of  color;  filter  as  directed 
in  No.  2648. 

2651.  Blue.     Dissolve  2  ounces  sulphate 
of  copper  in  k  ounce  oil  of  vitriol  and  1  pint 
of  pure  water ;  filter  as  in  No.  2648. 

2652.  Prussian  Blue.     Dissolve  pure 
Prussian   blue  in  slightly  diluted  oxalic  or 
muriatic   (hydrochloric)   acid ;   add  water  to 
bring  the  color  to  the  desired  shade,  and  filter. 
(Sec'No.  2648.) 

2853.  Pink.  To  a  solution  of  chloride 
or  nitrate  of  cobalt  in  water,  add  sufficient 
sesquicarbonate  of  ammonia  to  dissolve  the 
precipitate  at  first  formed.  Filter  as  in  No. 
2648.  Or :  "Wash  1  ounce  madder  in  cold  wa- 
ter; digest  it,  with  agitation,  for  24  hours  in 
3  pints  water  containing  4  ounces  sesqui- 
carbonato  of  ammonia;  then  dilute  with  water 
to  the  desired  shade,  and  filter  as  above. 

2654.  Purple.  To  an  infusion  of  log- 
wood, add  sufficient  carbonate  of  ammonia  or 
of  potassa  to  make  the  color.  Filter  as  direct- 
ed in  No.  2648.  Or :  To  an  infusion  of  coch- 
ineal, add  sufficient  sulphate  of  indigo,  nearly 
neutralized  with  chalk.  Filter  as  above. 


2655.  Red.     Dissolve  carmine  in  aqua 
ammonia  and  dilute  with  water  to  the  desired 
shade ;    filter  as  in  No.  2648.     Or :    Dissolve 
madder  lake  in  a  solution  of  sesquicarbonate 
of  ammonia,  and  dilute  with  water ;  filter  as 
above. 

2656.  Violet.     Dissolve  nitrate  of  cobalt 
in  a  solution  of  sesquicarbonate  of  ammonia ; 
add  sufficient  arnrnonio- sulphate  of  copper  to 
produce  the  color.     Filter  as  in  No.  2648. 

2657.  Yellow.    Dissolve  £  pound  sesqui- 
oxideof  iron  (rust  of  iron),  in  1  quart  muriatic 
(hydrochloric)  acid;    dilute  with  water,  and 
filter.     (See  No.  2648.)    Or:   Dissolve  chro- 
mate  or  bichromate  of  potash  in  distilled  wa- 
ter ;  or  equal  parts  of  either  the  above  and  of 
nitre   (saltpetre)  dissolved  in  water,  and  fil- 
tered as  above. 

2658.  Crimson.   To  1  ounce  alkanet  root 
add  1  pint  oil  of  turpentine.     Filter  as  direct- 
ed   in  No.   2648.     This  is    used  chiefly  for 
lamps. 

2659.  Green.     Dissolve  2  ounces  blue 
vitriol  (sulphate  of  copper)  in  1  pint  water; 
add  sufficient  bichromate  of  potassa  to  turn 
the  liquid  green.     Or  :  A  solution  of  2  ounces 
blue  vitriol  (sulphate  of  copper),  and  4  ounces 
chloride  of  sodium,  in  1  pint  of  water.     Or : 
A  solution  of  distilled  verdigris,  in  acetic  acid, 
and  diluted  with  water.     Or :   Dissolve  blue 
vitriol  in  water  as  above,  and  add  nitric  acid 
till  it  turns  green.    All  these  must  be  filtered 
as  directed  in  No.  2648. 

2660.  Lilac.     Dissolve  crude  oxide  of 
cobalt    in  nitric  or  muriatic  (hydrochloric) 
acid ;  add  sesquicarbonate  of  ammonia,  in  ex- 
cess ;  afterwards  sufficient  ammonio-sulphate 
of  copper    to    produce    the    color  required. 
Filter.     (See  No.  2648.) 

2661.  Olive.     Dissolve  equal  parts  by 
weight  of  sulphate  of  iron,  and  oil  of  vitriol, 
in  water ;  add  sufficient  nitrate  of  copper  to 
produce  the  color.     Filter  as  in  No.  2648. 

2662.  Orange.     A  solution  of  bichro- 
mate of  potassa  in  water,  either  with  or  with- 
out the   addition  of   some    hydrochloric  or 
sulphuric  acid.     Or :    Dissolve  gamboge  or 
annotto  in  liquor  of  potassa;    dilute  with 
water  and  add  a  little  spirit.    Filter  these  as 
directed  in  No.  2648. 

2663.  Sea  Green.     To  1  gallon  water 
add  acetate  of  copper,  4  drachms ;  and  acetic 
acid,  4  ounces. 

2664.  Pea  Green.     To  1   gallon  water 
add  nickel,  2  drachms;  acetic  acid,  1. ounce; 
and  bichromate  of  potash,  k  drachm.     Or :  To 
1  gallon  diluted  alcohol,  add  sulphate  of  cop- 
per and  common  salt,  of  each  2  ounces. 

2665.  Light  Blue.     To  1  gallon  of  wa- 
ter add  sulphate  of  copper,  16  ounces. 

2666.  Light  Green.     Sulphate  of  cop- 
per (re-crystallized),  muriatic  acid  (free  from 
iron),   water,   alcohol,   of  each  a    sufficient 
quantity. 

2667.  Violet  to  Purple.     To  the  green 
acid   solution  of  sulphate  of  chromium  add 
strong  solution  of   ammonia,   and    filter  as 
directed  in  No.  2648. 

2668.  Yellow.     Bichromate  of  potassa, 
acid,    water,   of  each  a  sufficient 


muriatic 

quantity. 

2669. 

1  ounce. 


Bright  Red.     Cochineal,  ground, 
Boil  with  1  pint  of  water,  replacing 


that  which  evaporates.    Towards  the  close 


PIGMENTS. 


add  cream  tartar,  £  ounce ;  alum,  1  ounce ; 
and  when  cold,  oil  of  vitriol,  1  ounce,  mixed 
with  £  pint  of  water. 

2670.  Purple  to  Pink.     Fuchsine  dilu- 
ted with  spirit,  as  desired. 

2671.  Magenta,  Solferino,  Water  of 
the  Nile,  and  other  bright  colors  may  be  ob- 
tained by  mixing  the  various  aniline  or  tar 
colors  with  water  as  directed  in  No.  2497. 

2672.  To  Prevent  Show  Colors 
Freezing.  It  will  be  sufficient  to  bring  the 
solution  to  a  strength  of  about  15  to  20  per 
cent,  of  alcohol.  Naturally  the  liquids  must 
be  very  dilute  as  regards  the  solids,  so  as  to 
suffer  no  precipitation  of  any  saline  matter  by 
cold  or  spirits.  Acetate  of  copper,  with  or 
without  ammonia,  a  dilute  solution  of  iodine 
in  iodide  of  potassium,  nitrate  of  cobalt,  etc., 
are  not  acted  on  by  weak  alcohol.  "We  be- 
lieve that  glycerine  may  be  mixed  with  water 
for  this  purpose,  but  whether  it  possesses 
any  superiority  over  alcohol  we  have  not  been 
able  to  ascertain.  The  bottles  in  all  cases 
must  have  sufficient  space  left  over  the  fluids 
to  allow  for  expansion. 


Pigments.  These  are  substances 
employed  as  coloring  matter  in  mixing 
paints,  <fcc.  The  following  receipts  furnish 
the  method  of  preparing  the  pigments  and 
other  coloring  matters  in  general  use,  and 
their  special  appliances. 

2674.  Turnbull's  Prussian  Blue. 
Ferricyanide  (red  prussiate)  of  potassium,  10 
ounces;  solution  protosulphate  of  iron,  1 
pint;  water,  3  pints.  Dissolve  the  ferricyanide 
of  potassium  in  part  of  water,  and  add  the  so- 
lution, gradually,  to  the  solution  of  protosul- 
phate of  iron  previously  diluted  with  the  re- 
mainder of  the  water,  stirring  the  mixture 
during  the  addition.  Then  filter  the  liquid, 
and  wash  the  precipitate  on  the  filter  with 
boiling  water  until  the  washings  pass  nearly 
tasteless.  Lastly,  dry  it,  and  rub  it  into  fine 
powder.  It  may  also  be  made  by  adding 
protosulphate  of  iron  to  a  mixture  of  yellow 
prussiate  of  potash,  chloride  of  soda,  and  hy- 
drochloric acid.  This,  mixed  with  water, 
makes  an  excellent  bluing. 

2675.  Prussian    Blue.      Percyanide, 
ferrocyanide,  or  ferroprussiate  of  iron.    Com- 
mercial Prussian  blue  is  made  by  adding  to  a 
solution  of  prussiate  of  potash  (or  of  prussiate 
cake),  a  solution  of  2  parts  alum  and  1  part 
sulphate  of  iron,  washing  the  precipitate  re- 
peatedly with  water  to  which  a  little  muriatic 
acid  has  been  added,  and  exposing  it  to  the 
air  till  it  assumes  a  deep  blue  color.    A  purer 
kind  is  made  by  adding  a  solution  of  persul- 
phate or  perchloride  of  iron  to  a  solution  of 
pure    ferroprussiate    of  potash.      (See    No. 
2674.) 

2676.  Action  of  Prussia  Acid  on  Iron 
Solutions.     The  Germans  call  prussic  acid 
blausaure,  because  it  produces  a  blue  precipit- 
ate in  certain  iron  solutions;  but  the  folio-wing 
experiment  undoubtedly  proves  that  the  pi'us- 
sic  acid  does  not  produce  the  color  of  that 
precipitate,  since  it  can  be  made  just  as  well 
without  it.     Prepare  a  saturated  solution  of 
green  vitriol  in  water.    Take  f  parts  of  the 


above  solution  and  treat  it  with  nitric  and 
sulphuric  acids,  until  it  is  changed  into  the 
sulphate  of  peroxide  of  iron.  Mix  this  with 
the  remaining  ?  of  the  first  solution,  then  add 
very  gradually  (to  avoid  its  becoming  heated) 
concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  until  a  precipitate 
is  formed.  The  result  will  be  a  beautiful  blue 
precipitate,  equal  to  Prussian  blue.  If  water 
is  added,  the  precipitate  is  dissolved  and  the 
color  destroyed ;  but  if  the  precipitate  is 
separated  from  the  acid  and  rubbed  with 
phosphate  of  soda,  we  obtain  a  beautiful 
blue  phosphate  of  iron,  which  will  resist  the 
action  of  water.  la  all  these  cases  the  acids, 
which  possess  no  color,  are  by  no  means  the 
cause  of  the  blue  color,  but  favor  only  the 
production  of  it,  by  depriving  the  mixed 
hydrates  of  protoxide  and  peroxide  of  iron 
of  certain  equivalents  of  water,  and  likewise 
by  preventing  the  same  from  entering  into  a 
higher  state  of  oxidation  in  the  atmosphere. 

2677.  To  Make  Carmine  by  the 
Langlois  Process.  Boiling  river  water,  4 
gallons;  cochineal  in  powder,  1  pound;  boil 
for  10  minutes,  then  add  £  ounce  carbonate 
soda,  dissolved  in  1  pound  water ;  boil  again 
for  |  an  hour ;  cool,  add  f  ounce  alum  in  fine 
powder,  agitato  rapidly  until  it  be  dissolved, 
then  let  it  stand  for  20  minutes,  after  which 
carefully  decant  into  another  vessel.  The 
white  of  2  eggs,  dissolved  in  1  pint  water,  is 
now  to  be  added,  and  the  whole  well  agitated ; 
apply  heat  until  the  liquor  be  clarified,  then 
draw  it  off,  and  allow  it  to  repose  for  -J  an 
hour,  or  longer,  when  the  clear  portion  must 
be  decanted,  and  the  carmine  that  has  been 
deposited  at  the  bottom  collected,  and  placed 
upon  a  filter  to  drain.  "When  it  has  acquired 
the  consistence  of  a  paste,  remove  it  from  the 
filter  with  an  ivory  or  silver  knife,  and  finish 
the  drying  upon  shallow  plates,  covered  with 
silver  paper. 

2678.  To  Make  Carmine  by  Cenette's 
Process.     The  following  is  the  method  em- 
ployed by  Madame  Cenette :  Finest  cochineal, 
reduced  to  powder,  2  pounds ;  pure  river  wa- 
ter, boiling  hot,  15  gallons ;  boil  for  2  hours, 
then  add  refined  saltpetre,  bruised,  3  ounces; 
boil  for  3  minutes  longer,  and  add  4  ounces 
of   salts  of   sorrel  (binoxalate  of  potassa). 
Boil  for  10  minutes  longer,  then  remove  the 
heat,  and  allow  the  liquor  to  settle  for  4  hours, 
when  it  must  be  decanted  with  a  syphon  into 
shallow  plates,  and  set  aside  for  3  weeks.    At 
the  end  of  this  time,  the  film  of  mould  formed 
on  the  surface  must  be  dexterously  and  care- 
fully removed,  without  breaking  it  or  disturb- 
ing the  liquid  portion.     The  latter  must  be 
now  removed  with  a  syphon,  and  the  remain- 
ing moisture  drained  off,  or  sucked  up  with 
a  pipette.    The  carmine  which  is  left  behind 
must  be  dried  in  the  shade,  and  will  be  found 
to  possess  extraordinary  lustre  and  beauty. 

2679.  To  Revive  or  Brighten  Car- 
mine.    "We  may  brighten  ordinary  carmine 
and  obtain  a  very  fine  and  clear  pigment,  by 
dissolving  it  in  water  of  ammonia.     For  this 
purpose  leave  ammonia  upon  carmine  in  the 
heat  of  the  sun  till  its  color  is  extracted  and 
the  liquor  has  got  a  fine  red  tinge.     It  must 
then  be  drawn  off  and  precipitated  by  acetic 
acid  and  alcohol,  next  washed  with  alcohol, 
and  dried.    Liquid  carmine  is  a  solution  of 
carmine  in  ammonia. 


PIGMENTS. 


24,9 


2680.      Adulteration    of    Cochineal. 

Genuine  cochineal  has  a  specific  gravity  of 
1.25;  it  is  commonly  increased  in  •weight  by 
slightly  moistening  it  with  gum  water,  and 
then  rouncing  it  in  a  bag,  first  with  sulphate 
of  baryta,  and  then  with  finely  powdered 
bone-black.  In  this  way  its  specific  gravity 
is  raised  to  1.35,  by  introducing  about  12  per 
cent,  of  useless  matter. 

2681.  Kirchoff's  Method  of  Making 
Vermilion.     This  is  said  to  yield  vermilion 
equal   to  the   Chinese.     Rub  in  a  porcelain 
dish  100  parts  mercury  with  23  parts  flowers 
of  sulphur,   moistening  the  mixture  with  a 
solotion  of  caustic  potash.    Next  treat  it  with 
53  parts  hydrate  of  potash,  mixed  with  an 
equal  weight  of  water;  warm  it  up  and  tritur- 
ate it  again.     The  water  must  be  replaced  as 
it  evaporates,  and  the  operation  continued  for 
2  hours.     The  whole  is  now  to  be  evaporated 
to  a  thin  paste,  during  constant  trituration, 
and  the  heat  removed  the  moment  the  color 
is  of  a  good  tint.     Even  a  few  seconds  too 
much  or  too    little  will    injure    the  result. 
"When  cold,  the  mass  is  washed  with  a  solution 
of  potash,  and  afterwards  with  pure  water, 
and  finally  dried. 

2682.  To  Preserve  Vermilion.    It  is  a 
fact  well  known  to  artists  that  the  splendidly 
bright  color  of  vermilion  (cinnabar,  sulphide 
of  mercury )  has  a  tendency,  especially  if  it 
has  been  mixed  with  white  lead,  to  become 
blackish  brown  and  very  dark-colored  in  a 
comparatively  short  time.     This  tendency  is 
altogether    obviated   if,    previous    to    being 
mixed  with  oil,  it  is  thoroughly  and  intimately 
mingled  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  1  part  sulphur  to  8  parts  vermilion. 

2683.  Carthamine  or  Safflower  Lake. 
Wash  safflower  till  the  water  comes  off  color- 
less; mix  it  with  water  holding  15  percent, 
of  carbonate  of  soda  in  solution,  so  as  to  form. 
a  thick  paste;  leave  it  for  several  hours,  then 
press  out  the  red  liquid,  and  nearly  neutralize 
it  with  acetic  acid.    !N"ext  put  cotton  into  it, 
and  add  successive  small  portions  of  acetic 
acid,  so  as  to  prevent  the  liquid  becoming 
alkaline.      In  24  hours  take  out  the  cotton, 
wash  it,  and  digest  it  for  half  an  hour  in  wa- 
ter holding  5  per  cent,  of  crystallized  carbon- 
ate of  soda  in  solution.    Immediately  on  re- 
moving the  cotton,  supersaturate  the  liquid 
with  citric  acid,  and  collect  the  precipitate, 
which  must  be  repeatedly  washed  in  cold  wa- 
ter.    For  pink  saucers  the  liquid  is  allowed  to 
deposit    in    the    saucers.      Mixed  with    the 
scrapings  of  French  chalk  it  constitutes  rouge. 

2684.  Lakes    are  also  obtained  from 
Brazil-wood  and  madder,  by  adding  alum  to  a 
concentrated  decoction  of  the  former,  or  to  a 
cold  infusion  of  the  latter  (made  by  triturating 
the  madder,  inclosed  in  a  bag,  with  the  water), 
and  afterwards  sufficient  subcarbonate  of  pot- 
ash or  soda  to  throw  down  the  alumina  in  com- 
bination with  the  coloring  matter.    The  pre- 
cipitate is  to  be  washed  and  dried.    A  little 
solution  of  tin  added  with  the  alum  improves 
the  color.     Lakes  may  be  obtained  from  most 
vegetable  coloring  matters  by  means  of  alum 
and  an   alkaline  carbonate.    Yellow  lake  is 
made  from  French  or  Persian  berries,  by  boil- 
ing them  in  water  with  a  little  soda  or  potash, 
and  adding  alum  to  the  strained  liquor  as  long 
as   a  precipitate  is  thrown   down.      Or   by 


|  boiling  weld,  or  quercitron  bark,  in  water, 
and  adding  alum  and  chalk  in  a  pasty  state. 
2685.  Rose  Pink.  Boil  6  pounds 
Brazil-wood  and-  2  pounds  peach-wood  in 
water,  with  J  pound  alum,  and  pour  the 
strained  decoction  on  20  pounds  sifted  whi- 
tening. 

2686.  Sap  Green.     The  expressed  juice 
of  buckthorn  berries  (and  sometimes  of  other 
species  of  rhamnus,  and  also  of  privet  berries) 
is  allowed  to  settle,  and  the  clear  liquid  evan- 
orated  to  dryness.      A  little  gum-arabic  is 
sometimes  added  to  the  juice. 

2687.  Azure  Blue,  or  Smalts.  The  com- 
mon qualities  are  made  by  fusing  zaffre  (roasted 
cobalt  ore  calcined  with  siliceous  sand)  with 
potash.    A  finer  quality  is  obtained  by  pre- 
cipitating a  solution  of  sulphate  of  cobalt, 
by  a  solution  of  silicate  of  potash.     Another 
cobalt  blue  is  obtained  by  adding  a  solution 
of  phosphate  of  soda  to  a  solution  of  nitrate  of 
cobalt,  and  mixing  the  precipitate,  washed, 
but  not  dried,  with  8  times  its  weight  of  fresh 
hydrated  alumina.    When  dry,  heat  it  to  a 
cherry  red.    It  is  permanent,  but  has  little 
body.    If  ground  too  fine  it  loses  its  beautiful 
tint.     It  can  be  employed  in  fresco  and  sili- 
cious  painting.    It  is  not  affected  by  sulphur- 
etted hydrogen. 

2688.  Blue  Verditer.     It  is  generally 
stated  to  be  made  by  adding  chalk  to  a  solu- 
tion of  nitrate  of  copper  produced  in  the  pro- 
cess of  refining  silver ;   but  Mr.  Phillips  did 
not  succeed  in  making  it  by  this  means,  and 
found  no  lime  in  the  best  samples.      This 
pigment  is  acted  upon  by  suphurretted  hydro- 
gen; it  should  not  be  used  in  oil,  and  though 
more  stable  in  water,  it  is  hardly  a  pigment 
for  high  art  work.    Certain  blues  are  made 
from  the  natural  blue  basic  carbonate  of  cop- 
per, and  from  malachite,  but  they  have  no 
interest  for  the  artist. 

2689.  New  Blue.     Mix  equal  parts  of 
common  arseniate  of  copper   (see    Mineral 
Green,  No.  2711),   and  neutral    arseniate  of 
potash,  fuse  by  heat  in  a  large  crucible,  then 
add  to  the  fused  salt  £  its  weight  of  nitre. 
Effervescence  takes  place,  and  the  salt  be- 
comes blue.     Cool,  pulverize,  and  wash. 

2690.  Cobalt  Blue.     Thenard's  blue  is 
made  by  precipitating  a  soluble  cobalt  salt 
with  a  solution  of  alum,  and  heating  the  pre- 
cipitate.   "When  well  made,  it  is  a  good  per- 
manent color,  useful  in  oil  and  water.    It  can 
also  be  employed  in  fresco  and  silicious  paint- 
ing.   It  is,  however,  somewjiat  affected  by 
light,  losing  its  brilliancy  slightly. 

2691.  Eisner's  Preparation  of  Zinc 
Green.     Sprinkle  with  water  a  mrxture  of  5 
parts  oxide  of  zinc  and  1  part  of  sulphate  of 
cobalt,  dry  the  pulp  thus  obtained,  then  heat 
to  redness.    A  deep  green  powder  is  obtained. 
If  10  parts  oxide  of  zinc,  and  1  part  sulphate 
of  cobalt  be  employed,  the  product  is  grass 
green  in  color ;   the  same  color,  only  lighter, 
is  obtained  when  the  latter  proportion  of  zinc 
oxide  is  again  doubled.      These  colors,  es- 
pecially the  latter,  may  replace  to  advantage 
Schweinfurt  green;    they  apply  well   on  a 
coating  of  lime. 

2692.  Bistre.      This  is  a  brown  color 
which  is  used  in  water-color  painting.    It  is 
prepared  from   the  root  of    beech-wood  by 
washing  away  the  soluble  parts  with  water. 


25  O 


PIGMENTS. 


The  insoluble  residue  is  mixed  with  gum  wa- 
ter and  formed  into  cakes. 

2693.  White    Lead.       This    pigment, 
which  enters  largely  into  the  composition  of 
various  colored  paints,  is  carbonate  of  lead, 
obtained  by  suspending  rolls  of  thin  sheet  lead 
over  malt  vinegar  or  pyroligneous  acid  in  close 
vessels,  the  evaporation  of  the  acid  being  in- 
duced and  sustained  by  the  heat  of  a  steam- 
bath  or  other  appliances. 

2694.  Test  for  White  Lead.    Commer- 
cial carbonate  of  lead  is  never  quite  pure,  being 
commonly  adulterated  with  sulphate  of  baryta, 
(heavy  spar),  and  sometimes  with  chalk.   The 
former  may  be  detected  by  its  insolubility  in 
dilute  nitric  acid,  and  the  latter  by  the  nitric 
solution  yielding  awhite  precipitate  with  oxalic 
or  sulphuric  acid,  or  oxalate  of  ammonia,  after 
having  been  treated  with   sulphuretted  hy- 
drogen, or  a  hydrosulphuret,  to  throw  down 
the  lead.     (Cooley.) 

2695.  Simple  Test  for  White  Lead. 
Take  a  piece  ot  firm,  close-grained  charcoal, 
and,  near  one  end  of  it,  scoop  out  a  cavity 
about  ^  inch  in  diameter  and  J  inch  in  depth. 
Place  in  the  cavity  a  sample  of  the  lead  to  be 
tested,  about  the  size  of  a  small  pea,  and  apply 
to  it  continuously  the  blue  or  hottest  part  of 
the  flame  of  a  blow-pipe;  if  the   sample  be 
strictly  pure,  it  will  in  a  very  short  time,  say 
in  2  minutes,  be  reduced  to  metallic  lead,  leav- 
ing no  residue ;  but  if  adulterated  to  the  ex- 
tent of  10  per  cent,  only  with  oxide  of  zinc, 
sulphate  of  baryta,  whiting  or  any  other  car- 
bonate of  lime  (which  substances  are  now*the 
only  adulterations  used),  or  if  it  be  composed 
entirely  of  these  materials,  as  is  sometimes  the 
case  with  cheap  lead,  it  cannot  be  reduced,  but 
will  remain  on  the  charcoal  an  infusible  mass. 
Itis  well,  after  bio  wing  upon  the  sample,  say  for 
J  a  minute,  by  which  time  the  oil  will  be  burned 
off,  to  loosen  the  sample  from  the  charcoal 
with  a  knife  blade  or  spatula,  in  order  that 
the  flame  may  pass  under  as  well  as  over  and 
against  it.    "VVith  proper  care  the  lead  will 
run  into  one  button,  instead  of  scattering  over 
the  charcoal,   and    this   is    the  reason  why 
the  cavity  above  mentioned  is  necessary.    A 
common  stearine  candle  or  a  lard  oil  lamp 
furnishes  the  best  flame  for  use  of  the  blow- 
pipe ;  the  flame  of  a  coal  oil  lamp  should  not 
be  used. 

2696.  Zinc  White    (oxide  of  zinc)  is  a 
permanent  pigment;   is  not  affected  by  sul- 
phuretted hydrogen ;  does  not  form  soap  with 
oils  and  fats,  therefore  it  retains  its  opacity ; 
does  not  decompose  other  pigments,   and  if 
used  with  proper  vehicles  retains  its  white- 
ness.   It  is  the  best  and  safest  white  that  can 
be  used.    It  is  most  durable  in  silicious  paint- 
ing, as  it  forms  chemical  compounds  with  pot- 
ash and  silica. 

•  2697.  Sulphate  of  Baryta,  called  bary- 
tes  and  constant  white,  is  yery_  permanent,  of 
a  bluish  tint ;  has  no  body  in  oil,  but  is  a  good 
white  in  fresco,  silicious,  and  water-color 
painting.  Chemically  it  has  no  action  on 
other  colors,  and  is  not  itself  affected  by  any 
ordinary  destructive  agent.  It  is  a  natural 
product,  called  heavy  spar. 

2698.  PfundheUer's  Method  of  Ob- 
taining Barytes  White.  For  each  100 
pounds  of  wool,  3  pounds  alum,  1  pound  cream 
of  tartar,  and  2  pounds  sulphuric  acid  are  to 


be  combined  with  £  ounce  of  soluble  iodine 
violet,  and  the  wool  immersed  in  the  solution 
at  a  temperature  of  122°  Pahr.,  and  stirred 
round  for  an  hour  at  this  temperature.  An- 
other bath  is  to  be  made  in  the  meantime,  in 
a  fresh  kettle,  with  3  pounds  chloride  of  ba- 
rium, and  the  whole  immersed  in  this,  and 
kept  at  a  temperature  of  122°  Fahr.,  for  two 
hours.  By  this  process  the  sulphate  of  bary- 
tes,  the  most  beautiful  of  whites,  will  bo 
thrown  down  in  the  fibre  of  the  wool,  which 
has  been  saturated  in  the  first  bath  with  the 
sulphuric  acid,  and  it  will  gain  about  eighteen 
per  cent,  in  weight. 

2699.  Cremnitz    White,    a    beautiful 
white,   with  less  body  than    ordinary  white 
lead ;  it  is,  doubtless,  made  by  precipitation  ; 
it,  like  ordinary  white  lead,  decomposes   sul- 
phides, and  is  decomposed  by   sulphuretted 
hydrogen. 

2700.  Cadmium  Yellow,  Bed,   etc. 
These  are  sulphides  of  cadmium,  and,  when 
well  prepared,  are  very  stable;  they  can  be 
used  in  fresco  and  silicious  painting.      It  is 
mentioned  elsewhere  that  cadmium  sulphide 
decomposes  emerald  green.     (See  No.   2712.) 
It  is  not  safe  to  use  it  with  lead  pigments,  un- 
less it  has  been  most  carefully  prepared ;  and 
here,  inasmuch  as  decomposition   may,  take 
place,  and  lead  sulphide,  which  is  black,  be 
formed,  it  is  better  to  avoid  the  mixture ;  no 
such  mixture  can  occur  in  fresco  or  silicious 
painting,  and  it  would  be  well  if  there  were 
no  chance  of  its  occurring  in  any  other  style 
of  painting,  by  the  banishment  of  white  lead 
from  the  nst  of  artists'  pigments.    No  other 
salts  of  cadmium  are  important  as  pigments. 

2701.  Green  Oxide   of  Chromium. 
This  oxide  is  perfectly  stable,  and,  as  so  many 
tints  of  it  can  be  obtained,  including  the  beau- 
tiful vividian,  it  can  be  used  in  all  vehicles,  and 
is  perfectly  permanent  in  fresco  and  tdlicious 
painting.     Other  chromium  compounds    are 
used  in  painting ;  the  chromates  of  lead  have 
already  been  treated  of.     Chromate  of  barytes 
is  a  good,  safe  pigment;  it  is  used  under" the 
name  of  lemon  yellow.     It  is  permanent  in 
fresco  and  silicious  painting.     The  chromates 
generally  are  unstable  colors,  and,  as  there  are 
so  many  other  good  yellows,  they  should  not 
be  used  as  pigments. 

2702.  The  Ochres  are  earths  colored  by 
oxide  of  iron.    The  natural  color  of   these 
earths  is  yellow,  but  by  burning  they   get 
darker,  and  some  become  red.    Indian  red, 
red  ochre,  light  red,  etc.,  are  all  earths  with 
more  or  less  of  the  oxide  of  iron  in  them.     All 
the  ochres  are  permanent  and  stable  if  they 
have  been  well  prepared.     They  may  be  used 
safely  in  every  style  of  painting. 

2703.  Colcothar  is  also  an  oxide  of  iron  ; 
it  is  very  permanent,  and  generally  useful  as  a 
pigment.      It  can  be  ^obtained  of   different 
tints.     It  is,  however,  especially  useful  in 
fresco  and  silicious  painting. 

2704.  Venetian  Bed,  as  now  prepared, 
is  an  iron  red ;  but,  whether  from  adulteration 
or  not,  it  contains  lime;  and,  as  it  is  made 
from  the  sulphate  of  iron,  sulphate  of  lime 
gets  formed,  and  this  prevents  its  employment 
in  silicious  pain  ting,  for  with  silicate  of  potas-h 
a  silicate  of  lime  is  immediately  formed,  and 
it  becomes  hard  and  lumpy.     It  may  be  used 
in  oil,  water,  and  fresco. 


PIGMENTS. 


251 


2705.  Chrome  Yellow.     To  a  solution 
of  bichromate  of  potash,  add  a  solution  of 
nitrate    of   lead    as    long    as    a   precipitate 
forms.     'Wash  the  precipitate,  and  dry  it  with 
a  gentle  heat.    An  inferior  kind  is  said  to  be 
made  by  4  pounds  pure  white  lead,  1  pound 
bichromate  of  potash,  and  20  pounds  water, 
and  boiling  till  the  water  becomes  colorless. 
Or  75  parts  of  precipitated  sulphate  of  lead 
may  be  acted  on  by  25  parts  of  a  hot  solution 
of  neutral  chromate  of  potash.    A  mixed  pro- 
duct of  chromate  and  sulphate  of  lead  is  thus 
obtained,  which  is  said  to  cover  as  well  as 
the  pure  chrome,  and  is  much  cheaper.  (Riot. ) 

2706.  Chrome  Red.      Melt    saltpetre 
in  a  crucible  heated   to  dull   redness,  and 
add  chrome  yellow,  by  small  portions,  till  no 
more  red  fumes  arise.    Allow  the  mixture  to 
settle,  then  pour  off  the  melted  salt  from  the 
heavy  sediment,  and  wash  the  latter  with 
water,  which  should  be  quickly  poured  off, 
and  dry  the  pigment.      The    liquefied  salt 
poured  off  contains  chromate  of  potash,  and 
is  reserved  for  making  chrome  yellow. 

2707.  Orange  Chrome  is  chrome  yel- 
low acted  on  by  an  alkali,  which  deprives  it 
of  part  of  the  chromic  acid.    All  the  chromes 
are  chromates  of  lead,  and  are  therefore  liable 
to  be  blackened  by  sulphuretted  hydrogen. 
When  used  with  oil,  they  may,  with  care,  re- 
tain their  color  for  a  long  time,  the  oxidized 
oil  protecting  them  from  the  action  of  sul- 
phuretted hydrogen.     They  cannot  be  used 
in  silicious,  fresco,  or  any  other  method  of 
water  painting.     They  are  destroyed  by  alka- 
lies ;  they  should  never  be  used  with  Prussian 
blue  or  kindred  colors.      On    the  whole,  it 
would  be  as  well  for  artists  to  reject  them,  as 
better  and  safer  pigments  can  be  employed 
for  the  same  purpose  as  they  are. 

2708.  Aureolin  Yellow.     An  excellent 
pigment  in   every   respect.     It  is   a  double 
nitrate  of  potassium  and  cobalt.    It  is  not 
acted  upon  by  lime  or  by  potash ;  it  is,  there- 
fore,  a   good   pigment    for  fresco    and    sili- 
cious painting.     It  may  be  used  with  safety 
in  oil  and  in  water.     Sulphuretted  hydrogen 
does  not  affect  it,  and  it  is  permanent  when 
submitted  to  the  severest  tests.    It  is  not 
affected  by  admixture  with  other  colors. 

2709.  Naples  Yellow.    Mix  12  parts 
metallic   antimony,  8  parts  red  lead,  and  4 
oxide  of  zinc,  and  calcine  in  a  reverberatory 
furnace.     The  mixed  oxides  are  rubbed  to- 
gether, fused,  and  the  fused  mass  elutriated 
into  a  fine  powder.     (Dr.   Ure.)    M.  Guimel 
recommends  1  part  well-washed  antimoniate 
of  potash  to  be  ground  into  a  paste  with  2 
parts  red  lead,  and  the  powder  exposed  to  a 
red  heat  for  4  or  5  hours,  keeping  the  heat 
moderate.     This  is  a  good  pigment,  and  may 
safely  be  used  with  oil. 

2710.  Brunswick  Green.  Pour  a 
saturated  solution  of  muriate  of  ammonia 
over  copper  filings  in  a  close  vessel  placed 
in  a  warm  situation ;  add  more  of  the  solution 
from  time  to  time  till  3  parts  of  the  muriate 
have  been  used  to  2  of  copper.  After  stand- 
ing for  a  few  weeks  the  pigment  is  separated 
from  the  unoxidized  copper  by  washing 
through  a  sieve.  It  is  then  to  be  well  washed, 
and  dried  slowly  in  the  shade.  It  is  often 
reduced  with  white  lead ;  some  samples  con- 
tain arsenic. 


2711.  Mineral  Green,  Scheele's  Green, 
or  Arsenite  of  Copper.     Dissolve  11  ounces 
white  arsenic  and  2  pounds  carbonate  of  pot- 
ash, by  heat,  in  a  gallon  of  water.     Dissolve 
also  2  pounds  sulphate  of  copper  in  3  gallons 
water.     Filter  each  solution  separately,  and 
add  the  former  gradually  to  the  latter  as  long 
as  it  occasions  a  precipitate.    "Wash  the  pre- 
cipitate, drain  it,  and  dry  it. 

2712.  Emerald  Green.    Mix  10  parts 
nuro  verdigris  with  sufficient  boiling  water  to 
form  a  soft  pulp,  and  strain  this  through  a 
sieve.    Dissolve  9  or  10  parts  white  arsenic  in 
100  parts  boiling  water,  and,  whilst  boiling, 
let  the  verdigris  pulp  be  gradually  added,  con- 
stantly stirring  the  mixture  till  the  precipitate 
becomes  a  heavy  granular  powder.    It  is,  on 
the  whole,  a  permanent  color.    It  should  not 
be  used  with  cadmium  yellow,  as  that  is  a 
sulphide,  and  with  it  forms  sulphide  of  copper, 
which  is  brown.     It  is  a  good  oil  pigment 
when  properly  used ;  it  has  but  little  body. 
It  answers  well  in  water-color  painting ;   it 
cannot,  however,  be  used  in  fresco  or  silicious 
painting. 

2713.  Green  without  Arsenic.     Dis- 
solve  48  pounds  sulphate  of  copper  and  2 
pounds  bichromate  of  potash  in  water,  and 
add  to  the  clear  solution  2  pounds  pearlash 
and  1  pound  chalk. 

2714.  Rininann's  Green  Pigment. 
Dissolve  together  in  sufficient  water  1  part 
sulphate  of  cobalt  and  3  sulphate  of  zinc ; 
precipitate  with  carbonate  of  soda,  wash  the 
precipitate,  and  calcine  it.  It  is  a  permanent 
color. 

2715.  Chrome    Green.     A  mixture  of 
chrome  yellow  and  Prussian  blue.     (See  No. 
2707.) 

2716.  Black  for  Miniature  Painters. 
Take  camphor,  and  set  it  on  fire,  and  collect 
the  soot  by  means  of  a  saucer  or  paper  funnel 
inverted  over  it.     This  black,   mixed  with 
gum-arabic,  is  far  superior  to  most  India-ink. 

2717.  To   Make   Lampblack.     This 
can  be  prepared  on  a  small  scale  in  the  fol- 
lowing  manner:    Suspend  over  a   lamp    a 
conical  funnel  of  tin  plate,  having  above  it  a 
pipe  to  convey  from  the  apartment  the  smoke 
which  escapes  from  the  lamp.     Large  mush- 
room-like concretions  of  a  very  black  carbon- 
aceous matter,  and  exceedingly  light,  will  be 
formed  at  the  summit  of  the  cone,  and  must 
be  collected  from  time  to  time.     This  black 
may  be  rendered  less  oily  and  drier  by  calcin- 
ation in  close  vessels.    The  funnel  should  be 
united  to  the  pipe,  which  conveys  off  the 
smoke,  by  means  of  wire,  because    solder 
would  be  melted  by  the  flame  of  the  lamp. 

2718.  Indian  Bed,  or  Crocus.    This  is 
made  from  jeweler's  rouge,  by  subjecting  the 
scarlet  calcined  sesquioxide  of  iron  to  a  fur- 
ther calcination  at  a  very  intense  heat.    It  is 
then  known  as  purple  brown. 

2719.  Ivory-Black.      Burn    shavings 
and  waste  pieces  of  ivory  in  a  covered  crucible, 
till  no  more  smoke  issues.    Cover  it  closely 
while    cooling.      It    should    be    afterwards 
washed  with  diluted  muriatic  acid,  then  with 
water  till  no  longer  acid,  dried,  and  again 
heated  in  a  covered  crucible.    It  is  of  a  deeper 
color  than  bone-black,  and  is  used  as  a  pig- 
ment,  a  tooth    powder,   and    to    decolorize 
syrups  and  other  liquids. 


DRYING    OILS   AND    DRYERS. 


2720.  To  Make  Purple  of  Cassius. 
This  is  a  verifiable  pigment,  which,  stains 
glass  and  porcelain  a  beautiful  red  or  purple 
hue.    Its  preparation  is  one  of  great  nicety, 
and  is  liable  to  fail  even  in  the  most  experi- 
enced hands.    Mix  together  separate  solutions 
of  1  part  crystallized  protochloride  of  tin,  and 
2  parts  crystallized  perchloride  of  tin;   this 
mixture,  added  to  a  solution  of  1  part  crystal- 
lized chloride  of  gold,  makes  a  beautiful  pur- 
ple colored  precipitate,  which  should  imme- 
diately be  washed,  filtered,  and  dried.     An 
excess  of  the  protochloride  produces  a  blue, 
yellow,  or  greenish  tinge ;   the  perchloride  in 
excess  gives  a  red  or  violet  cast. 

2721.  French   Purple   of    Cassius. 
This  is  similar  in  preparation  to  the  last  re- 
ceipt, but  differs  in  one  ingredient  employed, 
substituting  perchloride  of  iron  for  the  per- 
chloride of  tin.     This  purple  keeps  in  the  air 
unaltered  for  a  long  time. 

2722.  Purple  of  Cassius.    To  a  moder- 
ately dilute  solution  of  sesquichloride  of  iron, 
add  a  solution  of  protochlonde  of  tin,  until  the 
mixture  becomes  green,  and  dilute  the  mix- 
ture with  an  equal  bulk  of  water.    Next  pre- 
pare a  solution  of  terchloride  of  gold,  as  neu- 
tral as  possible,  in  the  proportion  of  1  part 

*  gold  in  360  parts  water ;  then  add  the  tin  so- 
lution, with  constant  stirring,  as  long  as  any 
precipitate  is  produced.  "Wash  the  precipitate 
as  quickly  as  possible  by  decantation,  and  dry 
at  a  gentle  heat. 

2723.  Buisson's  Preparation  of  Pur- 
ple of  Cassius.     Two  solutions  of  tin  are  re- 
quired.    The  first  consists  of  a  neutral  solu- 
tion of  1  part  tin  in  nitric  acid.  The  second  is 
made  by  dissolving  2  parts  tin  in  a  mixture 
of  1  part  hydrochloric  acid  with  3  parts  nitric 
acid;  a  little  heat  may  be  cautiously  applied 
towards  the  end  of  this  process,  to  present 
any  protoxide  of  tin  from  remaining  in  the 
solution. 

Next  dissolve  7  parts  gold  in  an  aqua-regia 
composed  of  6  parts  hydrochloric  acid  and  1 
part  nitric  acid ;  and  mix  the  solution  at  once 
with  3500  parts  water;  then  add  the  whole  of 
the  second  tin  solution,  subsequently  adding  by 
degrees  the  first  tin  solution,  ceasing  the  mo- 
ment the  right  color  is  obtained.  Too  little 
will  produce  a  violet  color ;  too  much,  a  brown. 
"Wash  the  precipitate  very  quickly,  and  dry. 
"When  dry  it  appears  brown. 

2724.  Improved  Vehicles    for   Col- 
ors.    One  measure  of  saturated  solution  of 
borax,  with  4  of  linseed  oil.    The  pigment 
may  be  ground  with  the  oil  or  the  mixture. 
Or,  a  solution  of  shellac  with  borax,   as  in 
making  Coathupe's  ink.     (See  No.  2484.) 

2725.  Improved  Vehicles  for  Water 
Colors.     "Water  colors,  mixed  with  gelatine, 
and  afterwards  fixed  by  washing  with  a  solu- 
tion of  alum,  or;  curd  of  milk,  washed  and 
pressed,  then  dried  on  fine  net,  and  when  re- 
quired for  use,  mixed  with  water  and  the  col- 
oring matter. 

Drying  Oils  and  Dryers. 
All  the  fixed  oils  have  an  attraction 
more  or  less  powerful  for  oxygen;  and,  by 
exposure  to  the  air,  they  either  become  hard 
and  resinous  or  sour  and  rancid.  Those 
•which  exhibit  the  first  property  in  a  marked 


degree,  as  the  oils  of  linseed,  poppy,  rape,  and 
walnut,  are  called  drying  oils,  and  are  used  as 
vehicles  for  colors  in  painting.  The  dry- 
ing property  of  oils  is  greatly  increased  by 
boiling  them,  either  alone  or  with  litharge, 
sugar  of  lead,  etc.,  when  the  product  forms 
the  boiled  oil  or  drying  oil  of  commerce.  The 
litharge  and  sulphate  of  lead  employed  for 
this  purpose,  maybe  again  used,  after  washing 
them  in  hot  water,  to  remove  adhering  muci- 
lage. "When  paints  are  mixed  with  raw  oil, 
as  is  frequently  the  case  in  house  painting,  the 
drying  quality  is  obtained  by  the  addition  of 
compositions  called  dryers.  These  are  gener- 
ally made  from  Japan  varnish,  sugar  of  lead, 
litharge,  etc.,  and  are  necessary  in  such  paints 
as  are  preferably  prepared  without  boiled  oil. 

2727.  Dark  Colored  Boiled  Oil.     Sim- 
mer with  frequent  stirring,  1  gallon  of  linseed 
oil,  with  £  pound  powdered  litharge,  until  a 
skin  begins  to  form ;  then  remove  the  scum, 
and  when  it  has  become  cold  and  has  settled, 
decant  the  clear  portions.    This  is  for  house 
painters'  use. 

2728.  Pale  Boiled  Oil.     Boil  1  quart 
linseed  oil,  and  2  ounces  powdered  white  vit- 
riol (sulphate  of  zinc),  with  1  quart  water, 
until  the  water  has  all  evaporated ;  settle  and 
decant  as  in  the  last  receipt. 

2729.  Very  Pale  Drying  Oil.     Mix  2 
ounces  finely  powdered  litharge,  or  dry  sul- 
phate of  lead,  with  1  pint  pale  linseed  or  nut 
oil;  agitate  frequently  for  10  days,  then  set 
the  bottle  in  the  sun  or  in  a  warm  place  to  set- 
tle.   "When  clear,  decant  it. 

2730.  Colorless  Drying  Oil  for  Paint. 
Take  5  gallons  water,  heat  it  to  the  boiling 
point  in  a  vessel  'holding  15  gallons ;  when 
about  to  boil  add  5  gallons  linseed  oil  and  1 
pound  red  lead.    Keep  it  constantly  boiling 
and  stirred  up  for  2  hours  over  a'slow  fire. 
If  not  constantly  stirred  the  lead  will  sink  to 
the  bottom  and  cause  the  oil  to  spatter.    It 
is  then  taken  from  the  fire  and  left  to  settle, 
when  it  will  be  found  that  the  oil  is  clear  and 
colorless. 

2731.  Mulder's  Colorless  Drying  Oil. 
Boil  linseed  oil  for  two  hours  with  3  per  cent, 
of  red  lead ;  filter  it,  and  expose  it  to  the  sun- 
shine in  large  shallow  vessels,  with  a  glass 
covering,  frequently  removing  the  cover  to  re- 
new the  air. 

2732.  To  Make  Boiled  Oil  Clear  and 
Bright.     There  is  often  a  difficulty  in  obtain- 
ing the  oils  brigh  t  after  boiling  or  heating  them 
with  the  lead  solutions.    The  best  way  on  a 
small  scale  is  either  to  filter  the  boiled  oil 
through  coarse  woolen  filtering  paper,  or  to 
expose  it  in  a  bottle  for  some  time  to  the  sun 
or  in  a  warm  place.     In  larger  quantities,  the 
oil  may  be  filtered  through  Canton  flannel 
bags. 

2733.  Artists'  Drying  Oil.    Mix  nut 
or  pale  linseed  oil  with  about  an  equal  measure 
of  snow  or  powdered  ice,  and  keep  it  for  2 
months  at  a  freezing  temperature. 

2734.  Boiled  Oil  Specially  Adapted 
for  Zinc  Paint.     Mix  1  part  binoxide  of 
manganese,  in  coarse  powder,  but  not  dusty, 
with  10  partsnut  or  linseed  oil;  keep  it  gently 
heated  and  frequently  stirred  for  about  30 
hours,  or  until  the  oil  begins  to  turn  reddish. 
The  oil  thus  prepared  will  also  answer  for  any 
paint. 


HOUSE   PAINTING. 


253 


2735.  New  Drying  Oil  without  Boil- 
ing.    Mix  with  old  linseed  oil  (the  older  the 
better),  2  per  cent,  of  its  weight  of  manganese 
borate  (this  salt  is  readily  prepared  by  precip- 
jtatinga  solution  of  sulphateof  manganese  with 
a  solution  of  borax,  wash  the  precipitate,  and 
dry  it  either  at  the  ordinary  temperature  of 
the  air  or  at  100°),  and  heat  this  mixture  on  a 
water-bath ;  or,  if  you  have  to  work  with  large 
quantities,  with  a  steam-bath  to  100°,  or  at 
most  110°;  you  thus  obtain  a  very  excellent, 
light-colored,  rapidly  drying  oil;  by  keeping 
the  mixture  stirred,  that  is  to  say,  by  always 
exposing  fresh  portions  to  air,  the  drying  prop- 
erty of  the  oil  is  greatly  promoted.    The  ra- 
pidity of  the  drying  of  the  oil  after  it  has  been 
mixed  with  parnt,  on  surfaces  besmeared  there- 
with, does  not  simply  depend  upon  the  drying 
property  of  the  oil,  but,  in  a  very  great  mea- 
sure, upon  the  state  of  the  atmosphere — viz., 
whether  dry  or  moist,  hot  or  cold — the  direct 
action  of  sunlight,  and  the  state  of  the  surfaces 
on  which  the  paint  is  brought.     Keally  gen- 
uine boiled  linseed  oil,  if  well  prepared,  leaves 
nothing  to  be  desired  as  regards  rapidity  of 
drying,  but  it  is  retarded  by  various  substan- 
ces which  are  added  in  practice,  among  which, 
especially,  oil  of  turpentine  is  injurious. 

2736.  Dryers     for      Dark-Colored 
Paints.  This  is  prepared  by  grinding  the  best 
litharge  to  a  paste  with  drying  oil.    A  small 
portion  is  beaten  up  with  the  paint,  when 
mixing  with  oil  and  turpentine  for  use. 

2737.  Dryers     for     Light-Colored 
Paints.     Sulphate  of  zinc,  or  sugar  of  lead, 
mixed  with  drying  oil,  and  used  in  the  same 
way  as  the  litharge  in  the  last  receipt.       / 

2738.  Dryers  for  White  Paint.    Mix 
1  pound  each  sulphate  of  zinc  and  sugar  of 
lead,  with  2  pounds  pure  white  (carbonate  of) 
lead,  and  apply  as  in  the  last  receipts. 

2739.  Patent  Dryer.    Mix  the  following 
ingredients  to  a  paste  with  linseed  oil :   15 
pounds  dry  sulphate  of  zinc,  4  pounds  sugar  of 
lead,  and  7  pounds  litharge.    The  mixture 
should  be  passed  3  or  4  times  through  a  paint 
mill.    "When  a  tin  of  this  is  in  use,  the  surface 
should  be  always  smoothed  down  level,  and 
kept  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  linseed  oil. 

2740.  Dryer  for  Zinc 'White.     Mix  to- 
gether thoroughly  10  parts  each  sulphate  of 
manganese,  acetate  of  manganese,  and  sulphate 
of  zinc,  with  14f  parts  zinc  white.     An  addi- 
tion of  2  or  3  per  cent,  of  this  dryer  to  zinc 
white  oil  paint  will  make  it  dry  hard. 

2741.  To  Make  Japan  Dryer.    Into  1 
gallon  linseed  oil,  put  f  pound  gum  shellac; 
i  pound  each  litharge,  burned  umber,  and  red 
lead;  and  6  ounces  sugar  of  lead.   Boil  together 
for  4  hours,  or  until  all  the  ingredients  are  dis- 
solved.    Remove  from  the  fire  and  add  1  gal- 
lon spirits  of  turpentine. 

2742.  Cheap  Japan  Dryer.     Mix  to- 
gether 4  gallons  pure  linseed  oil;  4  pounds 
each  litharge  and  red  lead;  and  2  pounds  pow- 
dered raw  umber.     Boil  slowly  for  2  hours, 
add  by  degrees  7£  pounds  shellac,  and  boil  £ 
hour  longer;  when  well  mixed,  add  by  degrees 
1  pound  powdered  sulphate  of  zinc,  and  when 
nearly  cold  mix  in  thoroughly  7  gallons  spirits 
of  turpentine. 

2743.  To  Make  Paint  Dry  Quickly. 
To  make  paint  dry  quickly  use  a  large  propor- 
tion of  Japan  varnish  in  mixing. 


2744.  Massicot.  Yellow  protoxide  of 
lead.  The  dross  that  forms  on  melted  lead 
exposed  to  a  current  of  air,  roasted  until  it 
acquires  a  uniform  yellow  color.  Used  as  a 
pigment,  and  in  glazing.  ( Cooley). 


House  Painting.    The  follow- 
ing  directions   are   obtained  from  a 
thoroughly  practical  source,  and  will  be  found 
useful  both  to  the  amateur  and  the  workman. 

2746.  Priming.     The  same  paint  is  used 
for  the  first  coat  in  outside  and  inside  work ; 
it  should  be  as  thick  as  will  work  conveniently, 
and   requires  only  litharge  for  dryers.    The 
paint  should  not  be  laid  on  too  thickly,  and 
well  worked  in  with  the  brush. 

2747.  Priming  for  Iron  Work.    This 
must  be  oil  color  laid  on  a  surface  freed  from 
rust.    For  paper  and  canvas,  a  coat  of  size 
takes  the  place  of  priming,  as  paint  rots  these 
materials. 

2748.  Puttying.     This  consists  in  filling 
up  all  nail-heads  and  cracks  with  putty,  by  a 
putty  knife ;  and  should  always  be  done  after 
priming. 

2749.  Second  Coat  for  Outside  Work. 
Mix  the  paint  with  raw  oil,  as  thick  as  it  can 
be  used  freely.     Cover  the  surface,  work  it 
across  to  even  it,  and  finish  longways  with 
long,  light  sweeps  of  the  brush. 

2750.  Third  Coat  for  Outside  Work. 
The  paint  should  be  mixed  with  oil,  a  little 
thinner  than  for  the  second  coat ;  laid  on  very 
evenly,  and  not  too  thickly,  and  finished  as 
smooth  as  possible. 

2751.  Second  Coat  for  Inside  Work. 
The  paint  for  this  coat  should  be  mixed  with 
raw  oil  and  turpentine,  about  equal  parts,  and 
be  as  thick  as  will  work  freely ;  laid  on  thinly 
and  well  crossed  and  finished  to  prepare  a 
smooth  surface,  with  as  few  ridges  as  possible, 
for  the  next  coat. 

2752.  Third  Coat  for  Inside  Work. 
Mix  the  paint  thinner  than  for  the  last  coat, 
using  but  little  oil,  and  more  turpentine ;  laid 
on  thinly  and  well  finished,  so  as  to  leave  no 
brush  marks. 

2753.  Fourth  Coat  or  Flatting  for 
Inside  Work.      The  paint  is  mixed  with 
turpentine  only,  and  thin  enough  to  spread  or 
flow  even,  before  it  sets ;  lay  on  evenly  and 
quickly,  brushing  lengthways  only,  and  finish- 
ing up  as  the  work  proceeds,  as  this  paint  sets 
quickly,  and  spots  touched  up  afterwards  are 
apt  to  be  glossy. 

2754.  Drawn  Flatting  for  a  Fourth 
Coat.     The  oil  in  which  the  white  lead  or 
other  paint  is  ground,  is  drawn  out  by  mixing 
with  turpentine,  allowing  the  paint  to  settle, 
and  then  pouring  on0  the  liquid;   repeating 
the  operation  with  fresh  turpentine  till  the  oil 
has  been  completely  washed  out.    This  makes 
a  better  color,  without  gloss,  and  easily  flow- 
ing.   As  it  sets  very  quickly  it  must  be  ap- 
plied thickly,  evenly,  and  quickly,  with  closed 
doors  and  windows,  to  avoid  a  draught. 

2755.  When  to  Apply  Paint.     Paint,* 
to  last  long,  should  be  put  on  early  in  winter 
or  spring,  when  it  is  cold  and  no  dust  flying. 
Paint  put  on  in  cold  weather  forms  a  body  or 
coat  upon  the  surface  of  the  wood  that  be- 


254 


HOUSE    PAINTING. 


comes  hard  and  resists  weather,  or  an  edged 
tool  even,  like  slate. 

2756.  General  Directions  for  House 
Painting.     Oil  paint  dries  with  a  gloss,  tur- 
pentine makes  a  dead  surface ;  and,  in  nsiug 
paints  containing  both  oil  and  turpentine,  the 
gloss  will  be  less  as  the  proportion  of  oil  is 
diminished.     Paint  requires  more  dryer  in  cold 
than  in  hot  weather,  but  is  more  durable  in  out- 
side work  if  applied  in  cold  weather.     Suc- 
cessive coats  of  paint  should  have  at  least  a 
day  intervene  between  them  for  drying.     Dark 
colors   should  have  a  glossy  finish.     Before 
commencing  to   paint,  the   surface  must  be 
perfectly  dry.     The  paint  must  be  thoroughly 
mixed,  both  before  commencing  and  during 
the  progress  of  the  work;  if  this  is  neglected, 
the  heavy  ingredients  are  apt  to  settle,  leav- 
ing a  larger  proportion  of  oil  and  turpentine 
on  the  surface. 

2757.  Painter's    Size.      Stir  a  small 
quantity  of  litharge  and  red  lead  into  some 
boiled  oil ;   let  it  stand,  shaking  frequently 
until  bleached ;  then  bottle.     Kaw  oil  makes 
a  slower  drying  size. 

2758.  Best  Painter's  Size.    Heat  raw 
oil  in  a  pan  till  it  emits  a  black  smoke ;  set  it 
on  fire,  and,  after  burning  for  a  few  minutes, 
cover  the  pan  over  to  put  out  the  blaze;  pour 
the  oil  while  warm  into  a  bottle  in  which 
some  pulverized  red  lead  and  litharge  have 
been  introduced.     Stand  the  bottle  in  a  warm 
place  for  two  weeks,  shaking  often.    It  will 
then  be  ready  to  decant  and  bottle. 

2759.  To  Paint  Zinc.     A  difficulty  is 
often  experienced  in  causing  oil  colors  to  ad- 
here to  sheet  zinc.    Boettger  recommends  the 
employment  of  a  mordant,  so  to  speak,  of  the 
following  composition:    1    part    chloride   of 
copper,  1  of  nitrate  of  copper,  and  1  of  sal-am- 
moniac are  to  be  dissolved  in  64  parts  of  water, 
to  which  solution  is  to  be  added  1  part  of 
commercial  hydrochloric  acid.     The  sheets  of 
zinc  are  to  be  brushed  over  with  this  liquid, 
which  gives  them  a  deep  black  .color ;  in  the 
course  of  from  12  to  24  hours  they  become 
dry,  and  to  their  now  dirty  gray  surface  a 
coat  of  any  oil  color  will  firmly  adhere.     Some 
sheets  of  zinc  prepared  in  this  way,  and  after- 
wards painted,  have  been  found  to  withstand 
all  the  changes  of  winter  and  summer. 

2760.  Polish  White.     This  is  made  by 
grindingdry  zinc-white  with  white  varnish,nnd 
affords  a  beautiful  glossy  finish,  to  be  laid  on 
after  the  second  coat.    A  more  perfect  surface 
may  be  obtained  by  covering  the  second  coat 
with  several  other  coats  of  hard  drying  paint, 
mixed  with  turpentine,  Japan  and  litharge ; 
then  rubbing  down  with  pumice-stone,  fol- 
lowed by  a  coat  of  polish  white,  and  finished 
with  a  flow  coat  of  white  varnish  containing 
a  little  zinc-white.      Although  this  requires 
more  time  and  trouble,  the  result  will  fully 
compensate  for  it.     It  is  necessary  to  remark 
that  when  the  last  coat  is  to  be  glossy,  the 
previous  coat  must  be  flat  or  dead;  and  a  flat 
coat  for  finishing  should  be  preceded  by  a 
somewhat  glossy  coat. 

2761.  To  Mix  Oil  Colors.    In  mixing 
different  colored  paints  to  produce  any  desired 
tint,  it  is  best  to  have  the  principal  ingredient 
thick,  and  add  to  it  the  other  paints  thinner. 
In  the  following  table  of  the  combinations  of 
colors  required  to  produce  a  required  tint, 


the  first  named  color  is  the  principal  ingre- 
dient, and  the  others  follow  in  the  order  of 
their  importance.  Thus,  in  mixing  a  lime- 
stone tint,  white  is  the  principal  ingredient, 
and  red  the  color  of  which  least  is  needed, 
<fec.  The  exact  proportions  of  each  depending 
on  the  shade  of  color  required. 

2762.  Table  of  Compound  Colors, 
Showing  the  Simple  Colors  which 
Produce  them. 

Buff "White,  Yellow  Ochre,  Ked 

Chestnut Eed,  Black,  Yellow 

Chocolate Eaw  Umber,  Eed,  Black 

Claret Eed,  Umber,  Black 

Copper Eed,  Yellow,  Black 

Dove "White,  Termilion,  Blue,  Yellow 

Drab "White,  Yellow  Ochre,  Eed,  Black 

Fawn White,  Yellow,  Eed 

Flesh "White,  Yellow  Ochre,  Vermilion 

Freestone.. Eed,  Black,  Yellow  Ochre,  "White 
French  Gray..  ..White,  Prussian  Blue,  Lake 

Gray White  Lead,  Black 

Gold White,  Stone  Ochre,  Eed 

Green  Bronze ..  Chrome  Green,  Black,  Yellow 

Do    Pea White,  Chrome  Green 

Lemon White,  Chrome  Yellow 

Limestone. -White,  Yellow  Ochre,  Black,  Eed 

Olive Yellow,  Blue,  Black,  White 

Orange Yellow,  Eed 

Peach White,  Vermilion 

Pearl White,  Black,  Blue 

Pink White,  Vermilion,  Lake 

Purple Violet,  with  more  Eed  and  White 

Eose White,  Madder  Lake 

Sandstone  ..White,  Yellow  Ochre,  Black,  Eed 

Snuff Yellow,  Vandyke  Brown 

Violet.. .  -Eed,  Blue,  White.     (See  No.  2761.) 

2763.  To  Prepare  Whitewashed 
Walls  for  Painting.  If  there  should  be 
any  cracks  in  the  plastering,  and  the  wash  be 
sound  around  the  cracks,  plaster  of  Paris  is 
the  best  thing  to  fill  them  with,  as  it  hardens 
quickly,  does  not  shrink,  and  leaves  the  sur- 
lace  level  with  the  wall.  If  the  plaster  of 
Paris  sets  before  it  can  be  worked,  wet  it 
with  vinegar.  The  stronger  the  acid,  the 
slower  it  will  set.  If  cracks  be  filled  with 
putty,  and  the  wall  be  painted  in  gloss  color, 
the  streaks  of  putty  are  very  apt  to  be  flat 
(no  gloss),  and  if  painted  in  flat  color,  the 
streaks  are  quite  sure  to  have  a  gloss.  These 
streaks,  of  course,  will  spoil  the  fccauty  of  the 
work,  but  do  not  affect  its  durability.  When 
filled  with  plaster  of  Pads  the  reversion  of 
gloss  never  appears,  if  done  as  directed  below. 
If  the  cracks  be  only  in  the  wash,  the  latter 
is  loosening  from  the  wall ;  and  if  it  has  not 
begun  to  scale,  it  soon  will,  and  all  attempts 
to  fasten  it  on  and  paint  it  will  be  total  loss. 
If  it  be  loose  enough  to  scrape  off,  scrape  the 
wall,  taking  care  not  to  gouge  into  the  original 
wall.  If  not  loose  enough,  let  it  alone  until 
it  is.  If  the  wash  be  thin,  solid,  and  even,  it 
can  be  painted  to  look  and  wear  well.  When 
the  surface  is  lumpy,  rub  the  lumps  off  with 
a  sandstone,  or  a  brick.  After  a  wall  has 
been  prepared,  as  in  either  of  above  cases,  or 
if  a  wall  that  has  never  been  washed  is  to 
be  painted,  size  it  with  2  coats  of  glue  size  (3 
ounces  glue  to  1  gallon  water).  (See  No. 
2815.)  Be  sure  the  glue  is  all  dissolved  before 
using  any  of  it.  Let  the  first  coat  dry  before 
the  second  coat  is  put  on. 


HOUSE    PAINTING. 


255 


2764.  To  Paint  Whitewashed  Walls. 
"When  the  second  coat  of  glue  size  (see  No. 
27613)  is  dry,  paint  as?  follows:    Mix  the  first 
coat  of  paint  in  the  pi-oportion  of  1  gallon  raw 
linseed  oil  to  15  pounds  white  lead,  ground  in 
oil,  and  1  gill  of  dryer.     Second  coat :  1  gal- 
lon  raw  linseed  oil,  25  pounds  white  lead 
ground  in   oil,  and  \  gill  dryer.     (The  lead 
should   be  the  best.)    Then  finish  either  in 
gloss  or  flat  color,  the  same  as  if  it  were  wood 
work  with  one  good  coat  of  priming.     Shade 
all  the  coats  of  paint,  as  near  as  you  can,  to 
the  color  you  wish  to  finish  in.    Mix  the 
third  and  fourth  coats  the  same  as  the  first, 
that  is,  about  the  same  thickness  for  a  gloss 
finish,  and  a  little  thinner  for  a  flat,  finish. 

2765.  Flexible   Paint  for   Canvas. 
Dissolve  2£  pounds  good  yellow  soap,  cut  in 
slices,  in  1  i  gallons  boiling  water ;  grind  the 
solution  while  hot  with  140  pounds  good  oil 
paint. 

2766.  Durable  Black  Paint  for  Out- 
Door  Work.      Grind  powdered  charcoal  in 
linseed  oil,  with  sufficient  litharge  as  drier; 
thin  for  use  with  well-boiled  linseed  oil. 

2767.  Green    Paint   for    Out-Door 
Work.     Add  to  the  black  paint,  made  ac- 
cording to  the  last  receipt,  sufficient  yellow 
ochre  to  make  the  shade  of  green  required. 
This  is  preferable  for  garden  work,  to  the 
bright  green  paint  generally  used,  as  it  does 
not  fade. 

2768.  Paint  for  Iron  Work.     There  is 
no  production  for  iron  work  so  efficacious  as 
well  boiled  linseed  oil,  properly  laid  on.     The 
iron   should   be  first  well  cleaned   and  freed 
from  all  rust  and  dirt ;  the  oil  should  be  of 
the   best   quality,   and  well  boiled,   without 
litharge  or  any  dryer  being  added.     The  iron 
should  be  painted  over  with  this,  but  the  oil 
must  be  laid  on  as  bare  as  possible,  and  on  this 
fact  depends  in  a  great  measure  the  success 
of  the  application ;  for  if  there  be  too  thick  a 
coat  of  oil  put  upon  the  work,  it  will  skin 
over,  be  liable  to  blister,  and  scarcely  ever 
get  hard ;    but  if  iron  be  painted  with  three 
coats  of  oil,  and  only  so  much  put  on  each 
coat  as  can  be  made  to  cover  it  by  hard 
brushing,  we  will  guarantee  that  the   same 
will  preserve  the  iron  from  the  atmosphere 
for  a  much  longer  time  than  any  other  process 
of  painting.     If  a  dark  coloring  matter  be 
necessary,   we    prefer  burnt  umber  to    any 
other  pigment  as  a  stain ;  it  is  a  good  hard 
dryer,  and  has  many  other  good  properties, 
and  mixes  well  with  the  oil  without  injuring  it. 

2769.  Painting  in   Milk.     In  conse- 
quence of  the  injury  which  has  often  resulted 
to  sick  and  weakly  persons  from  the  smell  of 
common  paint,  the  following  method  of  paint- 
ing with  milk  has  been  adopted  by  some 
workmen,  which,  for  the  interior  of  buildings, 
besides  being  as  free  as  distemper  from  any 
offensive  odor,  is  said  to  be  nearly  equal  to 
oil-painting  in  body  and  durability.     Take  4 
gallon  skimmed  milk,  6  ounces  lime  newly 
slacked,  4  ounces  poppy,  linseed,  or  nut  oil, 
and  3  pounds  Spanish  white.     Put  the  lime 
into  an  earthen  vessel   or  clean  bucket,  and 
having  poured  on  it  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
milk  to  make  it  about  the  thickness  of  cream, 
add  the  oil  in  small  quantities  at  a  time,  stir- 
ring the    mixture  with   a  wooden    spatula. 
Then  put  in  the  rest  of  the  milk,  and  after- 


wards the  Spanish  white.  It  is,  in  general, 
indifferent  which  of  the  oils  above  mentioned 
you  use ;  but,  for  pure  white,  oil  of  poppy  is 
the  best.  The  oil  in  this  composition,  being 
dissolved  by  the  lime,  wholly  disappears; 
and,  uniting  with  the  whole  of  the  other  in- 
gredients, forms  a  kind  of  calcareous  soap.  In 
putting  in  the  Spanish  white,  be  careful  that  it  : 
is  finely  powdered  and  strewed  gently  over 
the  surface  of  the  mixture.  It  then,  by  de- 
grees, imbibes  the  liquid  and  sinks  to  the 
bottom.  Milk  skimmed  in  summer  is  often 
found  to  be  curdled  ;  but  this  is  of  no  conse- 
quence in  the  present  preparation,  as  its  com- 
bining with  the  lime  soon  restores  it  to  its 
fluid  state.  But  it  must  on  no  account  be 
sour ;  because  in  that  case  it  would,  by  uni- 
ting with  the  lime,  form  an  earthy  salt,  which 
could  not  resist  any  degree  of  dampness  in 
the  air. 

2770.  To  Make  Paint  without  Oil  or 
Lead.     "Whiting,  5  pounds;  skimmed  milk, 
2  quarts ;  fresh  slacked  lime,  2  ounces.     Put 
the  lime  into  a  stone- ware  vessel,  pour  upon 
it  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  milk  to  make  a 
mixture  resembling  cream;    the  balance  of 
the  milk  is  then  to  be  added ;  and  lastly  the 
whiting  is  to  be  crumbled  upon  the  surface  of 
the   fluid,  in   which  it  gradually  sinks.     At 
this  period  it  must  be  well  stirred  in,  or  ground 
as  you  would  other  paint,  and  it  is  fit  for  use. 
There  may  be  added  any  coloring  matter  that 
suits  the  fancy,  to  be  applied  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  other  paints,  and  in  a  few  hours  it  will 
become  perfectly  dry.    Another  coat  may  theii 
be  added,  and  so  on  until  the  work  is  done. 
This  paint  is  of  great  tenacity,  bears  rubbing 
with  a  coarse  cloth,  has  little  smell,  even 
when  wet,  and  when  dry  is  inodorous.    It 
also  possesses  the  merit  of  cheapness,  the 
above  quantity  being  sufficient  for  57  yards. 

2771.  Paint  for  Old  Weather-Board- 
ing, or    Boat    Bottoms.     Take  5  gallons 
boiled  linseed  oil,  4  gpllons  raw  oil,  1  gallon 
benzine,   and    80    pounds    Kocky  Mountain 
vermilion. 

2772.  Fireproof  Paint.     Take  a  quan- 
tity of  the  best  quicklime,  and  slack  with  wa- 
ter in  a  covered  vessel ;  when  the  slacking  is 
complete,  water  or  skim  milk,  or  a  mixture 
of  both,  should   be  added  to  the  lime,  and 
mixed  up  to  the  consistency  of  cream ;  then 
there  must  be  added,  at  the  rate  of  20  pounds 
alum,  15  pounds  potash,  and  1  bushel  salt  to 
every  100  gallons  of  creamy  liquor.    If  the 
paint  is  required  to  be  white,  6  pounds  plaster 
of  Paris,  or  the  same  quantity  of  fine  white 
clay,  is  to  be  added  to  the  above  propor- 
tions of  the  other  ingredients.      All  these 
ingredients  being  mingled,  the  mixture  must 
then  be   strained  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
afterwards  ground  in  a  color  mill.      "When, 
roofs  are  to  be  covered,  or  when  crumbling 
brick  walls  are  to  be  coated,  fine  white  sand 
is  mixed  with  the  paint,  in  the   proportion 
of  1  pound  sand  to  10  gallons  of  paint;  this 
addition  being  made  with  a  view  of  giving  the 
ingredients  a  binding  or  petrifying  quality.' 
This  paint  should  always  be  applied  in  a  hot 
state,  and  in  very  cold  weather  precautions 
are  necessary  to  keep  it  from  freezing.     Three 
coats  of  this  paint  are  deemed,  in  most  cases, 
sufficient.    Any  color  may  be  obtained  by 
adding  the  usual  pigments  to  the  composition. 


256 


HOUSE    PAINTING. 


2773.  To  Paint  an  Old  House.    Take 
3  gallons  water  and  1  pint  flax  seed ;  boil  £ 
hour;   take  it  off  and  add  water  enough  to 
make  4  gallons ;   let  it  stand  to  settle ;  pour 
off  the  water  in  a  pail,  and  put  in  enough  of 
Spanish  white  to  make  it  as  thick  as  white- 
wash ;    then   add  ^  pint  linseed  oil ;    stir  it 
well  and  apply  with  a  brush.    If  the  whiting 
does  not  mix  readily,  add  more  water.     Flax 
seed,  having  the  nature  of  oil,  is  better  than 
glue,  and  will  not  wash  off  as  readily. 

2774.  Paint   for   Boilers.     The  best 
paint  for  boilers  is  asphaltum   dissolved  in 
spirits  of  turpentine  over  a  gentle  fire.     Pul- 
verize the  asphaltum  and  dissolve  as  much 
as  will  be  taken  up  by  the  turpentine.    If 
pure  it  will  last. 

2775.  To  Reduce  Paint  Skins  to  Oil. 
Dissolve   i  pound  sal-soda  in  1  gallon  rain 
water.    The  skins  that  dry  upon  the  top  of 
paint  which  has  been  left  standing  for  any 
length  of  titne,  may  be  made  fit  for  use  again 
by  covering  them  with  the  sal-soda  water  and 
soaking  them  therein  for  a  couple  of  days; 
then  heat  them,  adding  oil  to  reduce  the  mix- 
ture to  a  proper  consistence  for  painting,  and 
strain. 

2776.  To  Remove  the  Smell  of  New 
Paint.     Hay  sprinkled  with  a  little  chloride 
of  lime,  and  left  for  an  hour  in  a  closed  room, 
will  remove  the  smell  of  new  paint. 

2777.  To  Kill  Knots  before  Painting. 
A  mixture  of  glue  size  and  red  lead ;  or  shel- 
lac dissolved  in  alcohol  and  mixed  with  red 
lead  ;  or  gutta-percha  dissolved  in  ether ;  will, 
either  of  them,  make  a  good  coating  for  knots, 
but  will  not  stand  the  sunshine,  which  will 
draw  the  pitch  through  the  paint.    The  best 
method  is  to  cover  the  knot  with  oil  size,  and 
lay  a  leaf  of  silver  over  it. 

'2778.  To  Kill  Grease  Spots  Before 
Painting.  "Wash  over  smoky  or  greasy  parts 
with  saltpetre,  or  very  thin  lime  whitewash. 
If  soap-suds  are  used,  they  must  be  washed 
off  thoroughly,  as  they  prevent  the  paint  from 
drying  hard. 

2779.  To  Make  a  Sticky  Painted  Sur- 
face Hard.     Rub  it  well  in.  with  a  brush, 
with  Japan  and  turpentine  mixed  together. 

2780.  To  Prepare  Plastered  Walls  for 
Painting.     Plastered  and  hard  finished  walls 
must  have  a  coating  of  glue  size  before  paint- 
ing.    (See  No.  2815.) 

2781.  To  Economize  Paint.    Save  all 
the^skins,  cleanings  and  scrapings  of  the  paint 
pots,  and  wipings  out  of  the  brushes;  these, 
boiled  up  in  oil,  make  a  cheap  and  durable 
coating  for  outside  work.     (See  No.  2775.) 

2782.  To  Remove  Smalt  from  Old 
Signs.     Spread  over  it,  potash  dissolved  in 
water,  and  then  scrape  the  smalt  off.    If  the 
potash  stands  too  long  before  scraping,  it  may 
soak  into  the  wood ;  and  paint  afterwards  put 
on  will  not  dry  well. 

2783.  To  Remove  Putty  from  Glass. 
Dip  a  small  brush  in  nitric  or  mmiatic  acid, 
and  with  it  paint  over  the  dry  putty  that  ad- 
heres to  the  broken  glasses  and  frames  qf  the 
windows.     After  an  hour's  interval  the  putty 
will  have  become  so  soft  as  to  be  easily  re- 
movable. 

2784.  To  Soften  Putty  in  Window 
Frames.     To  soften  putty  in  window  frames, 
so  that  the  glass  may  be  taken  out  without 


breakage  or  cutting,  take  1  pound  American 
pearlash,  3  pounds  quick  stone  lime,  slack  the 
lime  in  water,  then  add  the  pearlash,  and 
make  the  whole  about  the  consistence  of  paint. 
Apply  it  to  both  sides  of  the  glass,  and  let  it 
remain  for  12  hours,  when  the  putty  will  be 
so  softened  that  the  glass  may  be  taken  out  of 
the  frame  without  being  cut,  and  with  the 
greatest  facilitv.  (See  No.  2786.) 

2785.  To  Remove  Hard  Putty.     This 
may  be  effected  with  a  paste  of  caustic  potassa, 
prepared  by  mixing  the  caustic  alkali,  or  even 
carbonate  of  potash  or  soda,  with  equal  parts 
of  freshly  burnt  quicklime,  which  has  pre- 
viously been  sprinkled  with  water,  so  as  to 
cause  it  to  fall  into  powder.     This  mixture  is 
then  made  with  water  to  a  paste,  and  spread 
on  the  putty  to  be  softened.    Where  one  ap- 
plication is  not  sufficient,  it  is  repeated.    In 
order  to  prevent  the  paste  from  drying  too 
quickly,  it  is  well  to  mix  it  with  less  water, 
adding  some  soft-soap. 

2786.  For  Removing  Old  Putty.   For 
removing  hard  putty  from  a  window- sash, 
take  a  square  piece  of  iron,  make  the  same 
red-hot,  and  run  it  along  the  putty  till  it  gets 
soft.     The  putty  will  peel  off  without  injuring 
the  wood-work.      Concentrated  lye  made  of 
lime  and  alkali  will  affect  the  wood  and  make 
it  rot  quicker.     (See  No.  2784.) 

2787.  To  Remove  Paint  from    Old 
Work.     To  destroy  paint  on  old  doors,  etc., 
lay  the    mixture  in  receipt    Jfo.  2784   over 
the  whole  body  of  the  work  which    is  re- 
quired to  be  cleaned,  with  an  old  brush  (as  it 
will  spoil  a  new  one);  let  it  remain  for  12  or 
14  hours,  when  the  paint  can  be  easily  scraped 
off.     These  two  receipts  have  been  used  by  a 
practical  painter  and  glazier  for  years. 

2788.  To  Remove  Paint  from  Wopd. 
"Where  it  is  necessary  to  remove  paint  entire- 
ly, this  is  generally  done   by  scraping;  an- 
other way  is  to  soften  the  paint  by  passing  a 
flat  flame  over  a  portion  of  the  surface  at  a 
time,  and  it  can  be  scraped  off  easily  while 
hot;  but  the  method  most  recommended  is 
to  lay  on  a  thick  coating  or  plaster  of  fresh 
slacked  lime  mixed  with  soda ;  next  day,  wash 
it  off  with  water,  and  it  will  remove  the  paint, 
leaving  the  surface  clean. 

2789.  To  Remove  Paint  from  Stone. 
A  correspondent  of  the  London  Builder,  hav- 
ing to  clean  a  pulpit  and  sedilia  in  which  the 
carving  and  tracery  were  almost  filled  up  with 
successive  coats  of  paint,  was  informed  that 
common  washing-soda,   dissolved  in  boiling 
water,  and  applied  hot,  would  remove  it.    He 
found  that  3  pounds  of  soda  to  a  gallon  of 
water,  laid  on  with  a  common  paint-brush, 
answered  the  purpose  admirably,  softening  the 
paint  in  a  short  time,  so  that  it  was  easily  re- 
moved with  a  stiff  scrubbing-brush ;    after- 
ward, on  adding  a  few  ounces  of  potash  to  the 
solution,  it  softened  more  readily  than  with 
soda  only.     The  stone  in  both  cases  was  a 
fine  freestone. 

2790.  To  Soften  Hard  Putty.     Break 
the  putty  in  lumps  of  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg, 
add  a  small  portion  of  linseed  oil,  and  water 
sufficient  to  cover  the  putty ;  boil  this  in  an 
iron  vessel  for  about  10  minutes,  and  stir  it 
when  hot.     The  oil  will  mix  with  the  putt}-. 
Then  pour  the  water  off,  and  it  will  be  like 
fresh  made. 


KALSOMINE   AND    WHITEWASH. 


257 


2791.  To    Clean   Old    Paint    Cans, 
Buckets,  etc.     This  can  be  thoroughly  doiie 
with  hot,  strong  lye. 

2792.  To  Pencil  or  Point  Brick  Work. 
The  upright  as  well  as  the  horizontal  lines 
should  be  drawn  with  a  straight  edge,  as  the 
least  want  of  uniformity  spoils  the  appearance 
of  the  brick  work.    White  lead  mixed  with 
turpentine,  and  thick  enough  to  set  firm,  is 
the  best  for  this  purpose. 


Kalsomine  and  White- 
"WclSll.  The  following  receipts  in- 
clude the  methods  of  preparing  and  applying 
white  and  other  coatings  on  walls,  etc.,  as 
well  as  the  preparatory  treatment  of  the  sur- 
face to  which  they  are  to  be  applied,  and  other 
useful  information. 

2794.  To  Prepare  Kalsomine.    Kalso- 
mine is  composed  of  zinc  white  mixed  with 
water  and  glue  sizing.     The  surface  to  which 
it  is  applied  must  be  clean  and  smooth.     For 
ceilings,  mix  4  pound  glue  with  15  pounds 
zinc;  for  walls,  1  pound  glue  with  15  pound* 
zinc.      The  glue,   the  night  before  its  use, 
should  be  soaked  in  water,~aud  in  the  morning 
liquefied  on  the  fire.     It  Ls  difficult  to  prepare 
or  apply  kalsomino;  few  painters  can  do  so 
successfully.     Paris  white  is  often  made  use 
of  for  it,  but  it  is  not  the  gsnuine  article. 
(See  next  receipt.)    The  kalsouiining  mixture 
may  be  colored  to  almost  any  required  tint  by 
mixing  appropriate  coloring  matter  with  it. 

2795.  To  Kalsomine  Walls.    In  case 
the  wall  of  a  large  room,  say  13  by  20  feet 
square,  is  to  be  kalsomiued  with  two  coats,  it 
will  require  about  J  p:mnd  light-colored  glue 
and  5  or  6  pounds  Paris  white.     (See  last  re- 
ceipt.)   Soak  the  glue  over  night,  in  a  tin  ves- 
sel containing  about  a  quart  of  warm  water. 
If  the  kalsomine  is  to  ba  applied  the  next  day, 
add  a  pint  more  of  clean  water  to  the  glue,  and 
set  the  tin  vessel  containing  the  glue  into  a 
kettle  of  boiling  water  over  the  fire,  and  con- 
tinue to  stir  the  glue  until  it  is  well  dissolved 
and  quite  thin.     If  the  gluo  pail  bo  placed  in 
a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  the  gluo  will  not  be 
scorched.    Then,  after  putting  the  Paris  white 
into  a  largo  water  pail,  pour  on  hot  water,  and 
stir  it  until  the  liquid  appsars  like  thick  milk. 
Now  mingle  thi  glue  liquid  with  the  whiting, 
stir  it  thoroughly,  and  apply  it  to  the  wall 
with  a  whitewash-brush,  or  with  a  largo  paint- 
brush.    It  is  of  little  consequence  what  kind 
of  an  instrument  i  i  employed  in  laying  on  the 
kalsomino,    provided    the    liquid    is    spread 
sm  >othly.     Expensive  brushes,  made  express- 
ly for  kalsomiuing,  may  bo  obtained  at  brush 
faatories,  and  at  soma    drug  and  hardware 
store?.     But  a  good  whitewash-brush,  having 
long  and  thick  hair,  will  do  very  well.     In 
case  t!i3  liquid  is  so  thick  that  it  will  not  flow 
from  tho  brush  so  as  to  make  smooth  work, 
aid  a  little  more  hot  water.    "When  applying 
tho  kalsomiue,   stir  it  frequently.    Dip  the 
brush  often,  and  only  so  deep  in  the  liquid  as 
to  take  as  much  a  5  the  hair  will  retain  with- 
out letting  larga  drop  •,  fall  to  the  floor    If  too 
much  g!u3  ba  added,  the  kalsomiue  cannot  be 
laid  on  smoothly,  and  will  be  liable  to  Track. 
The  aim  should  bo  to  apply  a  thin  layer  of  siz- 


ing that  cannot  be  brushed  off  with  a  broom 
or  dry  cloth.     A  thin  coat  will  not  crack. 

2796.  Whitewash  for  Out-Door  Use. 
Take  a  clean  water-tight  barrel,  or  other  suit- 
able cask,   and  put   into  it  £  bushel  lime. 
Slack  it  by  pouring  boiling  water  over  it,  and 
in  sufficient  quantity  to  cover  5  inches  deep, 
stirring   it   briskly    till  thoroughly  slacked. 
When  slacking  has  been  effected,  dissolve  in 
water  and  add  2  pounds  sulphate  of  zinc  and 
1  of  common  salt.    These  will  cause  the  wash 
to  harden  and  prevent  it  from  cracking,  which 
gives  an  unseemly  appearance  to  the  work. 
If  desirable,  a  beautiful  cream  color  may  be 
communicated  to  the  above  wash,  by  adding 
3  pounds  yellow  ochre.    This  wash  may  be 
applied  with  a  common  whitewash-brush,  and 
will  be  found  much  superior,  both  in  appear- 
ance and  durability,  to  common  whitewash. 

2797.  Treasury  Department  White- 
wash.    This  receipt  for  whitewashing,  sent 
out  by  the  Lighthouse  Board  of  the  Treasury 
Department,  lias  been  found,  by  experience, 
to  answer  on  wood,  brick  and  stone,  nearly  as 
well  as  oil  paint,  and  is  much  cheaper.     Slack 
i  bushel  unslacked  lime  "with  boiling  water, 
keeping  it  covered  during  the  process.    Strain 
it,  and  add  a  peck  of  salt,  dissolved  in  warm 
water;  3  pounds  ground  rice  put  in  boiling 
water,  and  boiled  to  a  thin  paste;  i  pound 
powdered  Spanish  whiting,  and  a  pound  of 
clear  glue,   dissolved  in  warm  water;   mix 
these  well  together,  and  let  the  mixture  stand 
for  several  days.     Keep  the  wash  thus  pre- 
pared in  a  kettle  or  portable  furnace,  and, 
when  used,  put  it  on  as  hot  as  possible,  with 
painters'  or  whitewash-brushes. 

2798.  To  Color  Whitewash.     Coloring 
matter  may  be  put  in  and  made  of  any  shade. 
Spanish  brown  stirred  in  will  make  red  pink, 
more  or  less  deep  according  to  the  quantity. 
A  delicate  tinge  of  this  is  very  pretty  for  in- 
side walls.     Finely  pulverized  common  clay, 
well  mixed  with  Spanish  brown,  make  a  red- 
dish stone  color.     Yellow  ochre  stirred  in 
makes  yellow  wash,  but  chrome  goes  further, 
and  makes  a  color  generally  esteemed  prettier. 
In  all  these  cases  the  darkness  of  the  shades 
of  course  is  determined  by  the  quantity  of 
coloring  used.     It  is  difficult  to  make  rules, 
because  tastes  are  different ;  it  would  be  best 
to  try  experiments  on  a  shingle  and  let  it  dry. 
Green  must  not  be  mixed  with  lime.    The 
lime  destroys  the  color,  and  the  color  has  an 
effect  on  tho  whitewash,  which  makes  it  crack 
and   peel.      "When    walls    have  been    badly 
smoked,  and  you  wish  to  have  them  a  clean 
white,  it  is  well  to  squeeze  indigo  plentifully 
through  a  bag  into  the  water  you  use,  before 
it  is  stirred  in  the  whole  mixture. 

2799.  Zinc  Whitewash.    Mix  oxide  of 
zinc  with  common  size,  and  apply  it  with  a 
whitewash-brush  to  the  ceiling.    After  this, 
apply  in  the  same  manner  a  wash  of  chloride 
of  zinc,  which  will  combine  with  the  oxide 
to  form  a  smooth  cement  with  a  shining  sur- 
face. 

2800.  A  Fine  Whitewash  for  Walls. 
Soak  i  pound  of  glue  over  night  in  tepid  wa- 
ter.   The  next  day  put  it  into  a  tin  vessel 
with    a  quart  of  water,  set  the  vessel  in  a 
kettle  of  water  over  a  fire,  keep  it  there  till 
it  boil«,  and  then  stir  until  the  glue  is  dissolv- 
ed,   ^ext  put  from  6  to  8  pounds  Paris  white 


258 


PAPER    HANGING. 


into  another  vessel,  add  hot  water,  and  stir 
until  it  has  the  appearance  of  milk  of  lime. 
Add  the  sizing,  stir  well,  and  apply  in  the  or- 
dinary way,  while  still  warm.  Except  on 
very  dark  and  smoky  walls  and  ceilings,  a 
single  coat  is  sufficient.  It  is  nearly  equal  in 
brilliancy  to  zinc-white  (a  far  more  expensive 
article),  and  is  very  highly  recommended  by 
those  who  have  used  it.  Paris  white  is  sul- 
phate of  baryta,  and  may  be  found  at  any 
drug  or  paint  store. 

2801.  Fire-Proof  Whitewash.    Make 
ordinary  whitewash  and  add  1  part  silicate  of 
soda  (or  potash)  to  every  5  parts  of  the  white- 
wash.-   (See  No.  2816.) 

2802.  Whitewash  for  Outside  Work. 
Take  of  good  quicklime  £  a  bushel,  slack  in 
the  usual  manner  and  add  1  pound  common 
salt,  £  pound  sulphate  of  zinc  (white  vitriol), 
and  1  gallon  sweet  milk.    The  salt  and  the 
white  vitriol  should  be  dissolved  before  they 
are  added,  when  the  whole  should  be  thor- 
oughly mixed  with  sufficient  water  to  give  the 
proper  consistency.    The  sooner  the  mixture 
is  then  applied  the  better. 

2803.  Whitewash  for  Fences  or  Out- 
Buildings.    Slack  the  lime  in  boiling  water, 
and  to  3  gallons  ordinary  whitewash  add  1 
pint  molasses  and  1  pint  table  salt.    Stir  the 
mxiture  frequently  while  putting  it  on.    Two 
thin  coats  are  sufficient. 

2804.  To  Mix  Whitewash.    Pour  boil- 
ing water  on  unslacked  lime,  and  stir  it  occa- 
sionally while  it  is  slacking,  as  it  will  make 
the  paste  smoother.    To  1  peck  of  lime  add 
a  quart  of  salt  and  £  ounce  of  indigo  dis- 
solved in  water,   or  the  same  quantity    of 
Prussian  blue  finely  powdered;   add  water 
to  make  it  the  proper  thickness  to  put  on  a 
wall.    1  pound  soap  will  give  gloss. 

2805.  To  Keep  Whitewash.     Keep 
the  lime  covered  with  water  and  in  a  tub 
which  has  a  cover,  to  prevent  dust  or  dirt 
from  falling  in.    If  the  water  evaporates  the 
lime  is  useless,  but  if  kept  covered  it  will  be 
good  as  long  as  any  remains. 

2806.  To  Whiten  Smoked  Walls.    A 
method  of  cleaning  and  whitening  smoked 
walls  consists,  in  the  first  place,  of  rubbing 
off  all  the  black,  loose  dirt  upon  them,  by 
means  of  a  broom,  and  then  washing  them 
down  with  a  strong  soda  lye,  which  is  to  be 
afterward  removed  by  means  of  water   to 
which    a  little  hydrochloric  acid  has    been 
added.    "When  the  walls  are  dry  a  thin  coat- 
ing of  lime,  with  the  addition  of  a  solution  of 
alum,  is  to  be  applied.    After  this  has  be- 
come perfectly  dry  the  walls  are  to  be  kalso- 
mined  or  coated  with  a  solution  of  glue  and 
chalk. 

2807.  To  Color,  and  Prevent  White- 
wash Rubbing  Off.    Alum  is  one  of  the 
best  additions  to  make  whitewash  of  lime 
which  will  not  rub    off.     When   powdered 
chalk  is  used  glue  water  is  also  good,  but 
would  not  do  for  outside  work  exposed  to 
much  rain.    Nothing  is  easier  than  to  give  it 
any  desired  color  by  small  quantities  of  lamp- 
black, brown  sienna,  ochre,  or  other  coloring 
material. 

2808.  To  Paper  Whitewashed  Walls. 
The  following  method  is  simple,  sure,  and  in- 
expensive: Make  flour  starch  as  you  would 
for  starching  calico  clothes,  aud,  with  a  white- 


wash-brush, wet  the  wall  you  wish  to  paper, 
with  the  starch ;  let  it  dry ;  then,  when  you 
wish  to  apply  the  paper,  wet  the  wall  and 
paper  both  with  the  starch,  and  apply  the  pa- 
per. "Walls  have  been  papered  in  this  way 
that  have  been  whitewashed  10  or  even  20 
years  successively,  and  the  paper  has  never 
failed  to  stick.  "WTien  you  wish  to  re-paper 
the  wall,  with  the  brush  wet  the  paper  with 
clear  water,  and  it  will  come  off  readily.  (See 
No.  2811.) 

2809.  Bed  Wash  for  Bricks.  To  re- 
move the  green  that  gathers  on  bricks,  pour 
over  the  bricks  boiling  water  in  which  any 
vegetables  (not  greasy)  have  been  boiled. 
Do  this  for  a  few  days  successively,  and  the 
green  will  disappear.  For  the  red  wash  melt 
1  ounce  of  glue  in  a  gallon  of  water ;  while 
hot,  put  in  a  piece  of  alum  the  size  of  an  egg, 
•J  pound  Venetian  red,  and  1  pound  Spanish 
brown.  Try  a  little  on  the  bricks,  let  it  dry, 
and  if  too  light  add  more  red  and  brown ;  if 
too  dark,  put  in  more  water.  This  receipt 
was  contributed  by  a  person  who  has  used  it 
for  20  years  with  perfect  success. 


Paper  Hanging,  in  cities, 
this  is  either  a  trade  by  itself,  or  is 
carried  on  as  an  adjunct  to  the  painter's  trade. 
In  rural  districts,  however,  there  are  many 
housekeepers  who  do  this  work  for  them- 
selves. The  following  receipts  are  given  for 
the  guidance  of  housekeepers. 

2811.  To  Prepare  a  Wall  for  Paper- 
ing.    A  new  unwhitewashed  wall  will  ab- 
sorb the  paste  so  rapidly  that,  before*  drying, 
there  will  be  left  too  little  body  of  paste  on 
the  surface  to  hold  the  paper.    A  coating  of 
good  glue  size,  made  by  dissolving  i  pound 
of  glue  in  a  gallon  of  water  (see  No.  2815),  or 
a  coating  of  good  paste,  put  on  and  allowed 
to  dry  before  the  paper  is  hung,  will  provide 
for  this  difficulty.      If  the  wall   be  white- 
washed, it  should  be  scratched  with  a  stiff 
brush,  to  remove  every  particle  of  loose  lime 
from  the  surface;  after  which  it  should  be 
thoroughly  swept  down  with  a  broom,  and 
coated  with  the  glue  size  or  thin  paste.    (See 
No.  2808.) 

2812.  Utensils  for  Paper  Hanging. 
A  long  table  of  thin  boards  cleated  together 
and  placed  on  wooden  horses,  such  as  are 
used  by  carpenters,  a  pair  of  sharp  shears — 
with  long  blades,  if  possible — a  whitewash- 
brush,  a  pail  for  paste,  and  a  yard  of  cotton 
cloth,   are  the    implements    required.      The 
table  or  board  platform  should  be  level  on  its 
upper  surface  to  facilitate  the  distribution  of 
the  paste.    The  latter  should  be  free  from 
lumps,  and  should  be  laid  on  as  evenly  as 
possible.    It  should  be  made  of  good  sweet 
rye  or  wheat  flour,  beaten  smooth  in  cold  wa- 
ter before  boiling,  and  should  not  be  allowed 
to  boil  more  than  a  minute  or  two,  but  should 
be  raised  to  the  boiling  point  slowly,  being 
continually  stirred  till  it  is  taken  from  the 
fire.    (See  No.  2272.) 

2813.  To  Prepare  Paper  for  Hang- 
ing.    Inexpert  hands  often  find  difficulty  in 
hanging  the  lengths  of  paper  so  as  to  make 
the  patterns  match.     Fo   general  directions 


SOLUBLE    GLASS. 


259 


can  be  given  for  this,  but  a  little  study  at  the 
outset  will  often  save  cutting  to  waste,  and 
other  difficulties.  In  this  matter,  as  in  others, 
it  is  wise  to  "  first  be  sure  you  are  right,  then 
go  ahead."  As  soon  as  the  proper  way  to  cut 
the  paper  is  decided  upon,  a  whole  roll,  or 
more,  may  be  cut  at  once,  and  the  pieces  laid, 
printed  side  downwards,  upon  the  table, 
weights  being  placed  upon  the  ends  to  prevent 
curling.  The  paste  should  then  be  applied 
to  the  back  of  the  uppermost  piece,  as  expe- 
ditiously  as  possible,  as  the  longer  the  time 
employed  in  this  part  of  the  operation,  the 
more  tender  will  the  paper  get,  and  the  more 
difficult  it  will  be  to  hang  it  properly.  About 
one-quarter  of  the  length  should  be  turned  up 
at  the  bottom  of  the  strip  before  hanging ; 
as,  without  this,  the  bottom  is  apt  to  stick  to 
the  wall  before  the  upper  part  of  the  strip 
can  be  adjusted.  If  the  paper  is  very  thick, 
both  ends  must  be  folded  over,  so  as  to  meet 
in  the  middle.  Besides  being  more  conve- 
nient for  handling,  this  allows  the  paper  to 
soften,  without  the  paste  getting  dry. 

2814.  To   Apply   Paper   to   "Walls. 
The  upper  end  of  the  piece  should  then  be 
taken  by  the  corners,  and  the  operator,  step- 
ping  upon  a  bench  or    step-ladder,   should 
barely  stick  the  piece  at  the  top,  and  in  such 
a  manner  that  the  edge  shall  coincide  with 
the  piece  previously  hung ;  this  can  be  done 
by  sighting  down  the  trimmed  edge  of  the 
piece,   while  it  is  held  in  the  hands.    The 
cloth  should  now  be  held  in  a  loose  bunch, 
and  the  paper  smoothed  with  it  from  top  to 
bottom,  care  being  taken  to  work  out  all  air 
from  under  the  paper,  which,  if  not  thorough- 
ly done,  will  give  it  a  very  unsightly  blistered 
appearance.     If  any  air  remains  under  a  part 
of  the  strip  after  it  has  been  hung,  a  hole 
must  be  pricked  through  the  paper  with  a 
pin,  to  allow  of  its  escape.     A  soft  flat  whisk- 
brash  (such  as  is  used  for  brushing  clothes)  is 
better  for  smoothing  the  paper  than  a  cloth. 
After  the  top  is  secured  so  that  the  pattern 
matches,  brush  once  down  the  centre  of  the 
strip  as  far  as  the  paste  is  exposed.     Then 
carefully  unfold  the  bottom  of  the  strip,  brush 
down  the  centre,  and  smooth  the  whole  by 
brushing  from  the  centre  to  the  edges,  right 
and  left,  all  the  way  down,  finishing  with  one 
sweep  down  the  trimmed  edge,  to  ensure  a 
perfect  join.     A  moist  cloth  should  be  always 
at  hand  to  keep  the  figures  clean  and  free 
from  color.     If  the  wall  be  uneven  or  crooked, 
as  is  often  the  case  in  old  houses,  it  will  be 
difficult  to  avoid  wrinkles,  but  they  can  be 
mostly  got  rid  of  by  cutting  the  paper  and 
allowing  the  cut  edges  to  lap  over  each  other, 
in  places  where  there  would  otherwise  be  a 
wrinkle.     By  following  these  directions  the 
most  inexperienced  will    be    able    to  do   a 
reasonably  tidy  piece  of  work,  but  of  course 
a  high  degree  of  skill  is  only  secured  by 
practice. 

2815.  To  Make  Glue  Sizing.     Break 
up   the   glue  into  small  pieces,  put  it  in  a 
vessel  with  sufficient  cold  water  to  just  cover 
it;  let  it  soak  over  night,  and  in  the  morning 
the  glue  will  be  soft  enough  to  melt  readily 
with    a  moderate  heat,  or- in  a  water-bath. 
Add   water  to  reduce  to  the    desired    con- 
sistency.    This  must  be  applied  as  directed 
in  the  foregoing  receipts. 


Soluble  GrlaSS.  This  is  a  combi- 
nation of  silica  with  an  alkali,  soluble  in 
boiling  water,  yielding  a  fine,  transparent, 
semi-elastic  varnish.  When  made  according 
to  Liernen's  or  Kuhlman's  method,  under  in- 
creased pressure  and  heat,  it  is  unaffected  by 
cold  water,  and  the  object  painted  or  covered 
by  the  same  can  only  be  deprived  of  its  coat- 
ing by  undergoing  the  same  heat  and  pressure 
as  was  required  to  prepare  the  original  solu- 
tion. Soluble  glass  prepared  from  potash  is 
usually  called  silicate  of  potash ;  that  from 
soda  being  silicate  of  soda.  The  most  ex- 
tensive use  which  is  made,  at  present,  of  solu- 
ble glass  produced  after  the  other  methods,  is 
for  the  adulteration  of  soap ;  in  fact,  such  a 
preparation  is  a  kind  of  soap,  in  which  the 
expensive  fatty  acids  are  replaced  by  the  cheap 
silicic  acid  or  sand ;  but  it  is  a  bad  soap,  very 
caustic,  as  the  silicic  acid  but  veiy  imperfectly 
neutralizes  the  alkali.  Another  use  of  water 
glass  is  that  of  hardening  cements,  mortar, 
etc.,  so  as  .to  render  them  impermeable  by 
water. 

2817.  Fuchs'  Soluble  Potash  Glass. 
A  mixture  of  15  parts  pulverized  quartz,  or 
pure  quartz  sand,  10  parts  of  well  purified 
potash,  and  1  part  powdered  charcoal,  may  be 
conveniently  employed.  These  ingredients 
are  to  be  well  mixed  and  exposed  to  a  strong 
heat  in  a  fire-proof  melting-pot  for  5  or  6 
hours,  until  the  whole  fuses  uniformly  and 
steadily ;  'as  much  heat  is  required  as  is  ne- 
cessary to  melt  common  glass.  The  melted 
mass  is  then  taken  out  by  means  of  an  iron 
spoon,  and  the  melting-pot  immediately  re- 
filled with  a  fresh  quantity.  (At  this  stage 
of  the  process  it  is  said  by  another  authority, 
that,  by  pulverizing  and  exposing  it  to  the  air, 
it  will  absorb  acidity,  and  by  degrees  the  for- 
eign salts  will,  after  frequent  agitation  and 
stirring,  be  completely  separated,  particularly 
after  pouring  over  the  mass  some  cold  water, 
which  dissolves  them,  but  not  the  soluble 
glass. )  It  is  then  broken  up,  pulverized,  and 
dissolved  in  about  5  parts  of  boiling  water, 
by  introducing  it  in  small  portions  into  an  iron 
vessel  and  constantly  stirring  the  liquid,  re- 
placing the  water  as  it  evaporates,  by  adding 
hot  water  from  time  to  time,  and  continuing 
to  boil  for  3  or  4  hours,  until  the  whole  is  dis- 
solved— a  slimy  deposit  excepted — and  until 
a  pellicle  begins  to  form  on  the  surface  of  the 
liquid,  which  indicates  that  the  solution  is  in 
a  state  of  great  concentration ;  it  disappears, 
however,  when  the  liquid  is  stirred ;  and  the 
boiling  may  then  be  continued  for  a  short 
time,  in  order  to  obtain  the  solution  in  the 
proper  state  of  concentration,  when  it  has  a 
specific  gravity  of  from  1.24  to  1.25  (about 
28°  Baum6).  In  this  state  it  is  sufficiently 
liquid  to  be  used  in  many  operations;  in  some 
instances  it  will  be  necessary  to  dilute  it  with 
more  or  less  water.  "When  evaporated  to  a 
syrupy  consistence,  it  can  be  employed  with 
advantage  in  but  few  cases.  Very  frequently 
it  is  found  contaminated  with  a  little  sulphide 
of  potassium,  and  it  becomes  necessary  to  add 
a  little  oxide  of  copper  or  copper  scales  to- 
wards the  end  of  the  boiling,  which  liberates 
a  small  quantity  of  potash,  but  which  renders 
it  rather  more  suitable  for  many  practical  pur- 
poses than  otherwise.  If  it  is  desirable,  how-; 
ever,  to  have  a  water-glass  which  is  entirely 


260 


TO    DYE    WOOD. 


neutral,  it  requires  to  be  boiled  with  freshly- 
precipitated  silica  as  long  as  any  silica  is  dis- 
solved. 

2818.  Fuchs1    Soluble   Soda  Glass. 
This  i.s  prepared  iu  the  same  way  as  the  potash 
glass  (see  No.  2817),  with  the  exception  that 
a  smaller  proportion  of  soda  is  required.    A 
mixture  of  45  parts  by  weight  of  quartz,  23 
parts  dry  carbonate  of  soda,  and  3  parts  char- 
coal, may  bo  employed.    The  mixture  fuses 
somewhat  easier  than  potash  glass. 

2819.  Buchner's  Soluble  Soda  Glass. 
Take  100  parts  quartz,  60  parts  dry  sulphate 
of  soda,  and  15  to  20  parts  charcoal.    This  is 
said  to  be  cheaper  than  that  made  with  car- 
bonate of  soda,  and  is  prepared  in  the  same 
manner.     By  the  addition  of  some  copper 
scales  to  the  mixture  the  sulphur  will  be  sep- 
arated.   Another  method  is  proposed  by  dis- 
solving the  fine    silex  in  caustic  soda  lye. 
Knhlinan  employs  the  powdered  flint,  which 
is  dissolved  in  an  iron  caldron  under  a  pres- 
sure of  7  to  8  atmospheres  of  steam.    Liebig 
has 'recommended  infusorial  earth  in  place  of 
sand,  on  account  of  its  being  readily  soluble 
in  caustic  lye ;   and  ho  proposes  to  use  120 
parts  of  the  earth  to  75  parts  of  caustic  soda, 
from  which  240  parts  of  silica  jelly  may  be 
obtained.    His  mode  is  to  calcine  the  earth  so 
as  to  become  white,  and  passing  it  through  a 
sieve.    The  lye  he  prepares  from  75  ounces  of 
calcined  soda,  dissolved  in  5  times  the  quan- 
tity of  boiling  water,  and  then  treated  by  56 
ounces  of  dry  slacked  lime ;  this  lye  is  con- 
centrated by  boiling  down  to  48°  Baum6 ;  in 
this  boiling  lye  120  ounces  of  the  prepared  in- 
fusorial earth  are  added  by  degrees,  which 
are  readily  dissolved,  leaving  scarcely   any 
sediment.     It  has  then  to  undergo  several 
operations  for  making  it  suitable  for  use,  such 
as  treating  again  with  lime-water,  boiling  it 
and  separating  any  precipitate,  which  by  con- 
tinued boiling  forms  into  balls,  and  which  can 
then  be  removed  from  the  liquid.    This  clear 
liquid  is  then  evaporated  to  the  consistency 
of  syrup ;   it  forms  a  jelly  slightly  colored, 
feels  dry  and  not  sticky,  and  is  readily  soluble 
in  boiling  water.      The    difference  between 
potash  and  soda  soluble  glass  is  not  material ; 
the  first  may  be  preferred  in  whitewashing 
with  plaster  of  Paris,  while  the  soda  glass  is 
more  fluidly  divisible. 

2820.  '  To  Distinguish  Potash   and 
Soda  Soluble  Glass.     By  adding  i  volume 
of  rectified  alcohol  to  a  concentrated  solution 
of  soluble  potash  glass,  a  gelatinous  precipi- 
tate is  formed,  which,  in  a  few  days,  is  de- 
posited at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  in  a  solid 
mass.    The  addition  of  alcohol  to  soluble  soda 
glass  converts  it  into  a  gelatinous  mass,  but 
affords  no  precipitate. 

2821 .  To  Make  Wood  Incombustible. 
The  application  of  soluble  glass  to  wood  ren- 

'  ders  it  almost  incombustible. 

2822.  Double  Soluble  Glass.     A  mix- 
ture of  3  parts  by  measure  of  concentrated 
potash  soluble  glass,  and  2  parts  concentrated 
soda  glass,  produce  a  double  water-glass  which 
will  answer  all  practical  purposes. 

The  following  preparation  is  also  recom- 
mended by  Fuchs,  as  being  much  easier  to 
fuse.     Take  100  parts  quartz,  28  parts  purified 
potash,  22  parts  neutral  dry  carbonate  of  soda, 
•  and  6  parts  powdered  charcoal. 


2823.  Soluble  Glass  for  Stereo-Chro- 
mic Painting.  Soluble  glass  for  the  use  of 
stereo-chromic  painting  is  obtained  by  fusing 
3  parts  of  pure  carbonate  of  soda  and  2  parts 
of  powdered  quartz,  from  which  a  concentrated 
solution  is  prepared,  1  part  of  which  is  then 
added  to  4  parts  of  a  concentrated  and  fully 
saturated  solution  of  potash-glass  solution,  by 
which  there  is  a  more  condensed  amount  of  ; 
silica  with  the  alkalies;  this  solution  has  "' 
been  found  to  work  well  for  paint.  Siemens' 
patent  for  the  manufacture  of  soluble  glass 
consists  in  the  production  of  a  liquid  quartz 
by  digesting  the  eand  or  quartz  in  a  steam- 
boiler  tightly  closed  and  at  a  temperature 
corresponding  to  4  or  5  atmospheres,  with  the 
common  caustic  alkalies,  which  are  in  this 
way  capacitated  to  dissolve  from  3  to  4  times 
the  weight  of  silica  to  a  thin  liquid.  Experi- 
ence has  taught  that  the  soluble  glass  made 
in  the  old  way,  with  an  excess  of  alkali,  can- 
not stand  the  influence  of  the  atmosphere 
when  used  as  a  paint.  The  soda  washes  out, 
and  leaves  the  silex  in  a  pulverized  condition, 
so  that  it  soon  disappears.  When,  however, 
a  closed  boiler  is  used,  according  to  Kuhlman's 
or  Siemens'  method,  and  a  pressure  of  7  or  8 
atmospheres,  which  corresponds  with  a  tem- 
perature of  some  120°  above  the  boiling  point 
of  water,  the  solvent  qualities  of  the  latter 
are  increased  to  such  an  extent  as  to  enable  it 
to  dissolve  a  glass  containing  J  to  ^  the  amount 
of  potash  or  soda. 


TO  Dye  WOOd.  Dyeing  wood  is 
mostly  applied  for  giving  color  to  ve- 
neers, while  staining  is  more  generally  had  re- 
course to,  to  give  the  desired  color  to  an  article 
after  it  has  been  manufactured.  Iu  the  one 
case,  the  color  should  penetrate  throughout, 
while  in  the  latter  the  surface  is  all  that  is  es- 
sential. After  the  veneers  are  cut,  they  should 
be  allowed  to  lie  in  a  trough  of  water  for  4  or 

5  days  before  being  put  into  the  copper ;  as? 
the  water  brings  out  abundance  of  slimy  mat- 
ter, which,  if  not  thus  removed,  would  prevent 
the  wood  taking  a  good  color.     After  this  pu- 
rifying process,  the  veneers  should  bo  dried  in 
the  open  air  for  at  least  12  hours.    They  are 
then  ready  for  the  copper.    By  this  simple 
method,  the  color  will  strike  much  quicker, 
and  -be  of  n  brighter  hue.    It  would  also  add 
to  the  quality  of  the  colors,  if,  after  the  ve- 
neers have  boiled  a  few  hours,  they  are  taken 
out,  dried  in  the  air,  and  again  immersed  in 
the  coloring  copper.    Always  dry  veneers  in 
the  open  air,  for  fire  invariably  injures   tho 
colors.     (Sec  Noa.  2837,  etc.) 

2825.  Fine  Black  Dye  for  Wood.   Put 

6  pounds  chip  logwood  into  the  copper,  with 
as  many  veneers  as.it  will  conveniently  hold, 
without  pressing  too  tight ;  fill  it  with  water, 
and  let  it  boil  slowly  for  about  3  hours ;  then 
add  i  pound  powdered  verdigris,  i  pound  cop- 
peras, and  4  ounces  bruised  nut-galls ;  fill  tho 
copper  up  with  vinegar  as  the  water  evapo- 
rates; let  it  boil  gently  2  hours  each  day  till 
the  wood  is  dyed  through. 

2826.  Fine  Yellow  Dye  for  Wood. 
Reduce  4  pounds  of  barberry  root  by  sawing, 
to  dust,  which  put  in  a  copper  or  brass  trough; 


TO    DYE    WOOD. 


261 


add  4  ounces  turmeric  and  4  gallons  water, 
then  put  in  as  many  white  holly  veneers  as 
the  liquor  will  cover ;  boil  them  together  for 
3  hours,  often  turning  them ;  when  "cool,  add 
2  ounces  aquafortis,  and  the  dye  will  strike 
through  much  sooner. 

2827.  Bright  Yellow  Dye  for  Wood. 
To  every  gallon  of  water  necessary  to  cover 
the  veneers,  add  1  pound  French  berries ;  boil 
the  veneers    till   the    color    has    penetrated 
through ;    add  some  brightening  liquid  (see 
next  receipt)  to  the  infusion  of   the  French 
berries,  and  let  the  veneers  remain  for  2  or  3 
hours,  and  the  color  will  be  very  bright. 

2828.  Liquid  For  Brightening  and 
Setting  Colors.     To  every  pint  of  strong 
aquafortis,  add  1  ounce  grain  tin,  and  a  piece 
of  sal-ammoniac  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  set  it 
by  to  dissolve,  shake  the  bottle  round  with 
the  cork  out,  from  time  to  time :  in  the  course 
of  2  or  3  days  it  will  be  fit  for  use.     This  will 
be  found  an  admirable  liquid  to  add  to  any 
color,  as  it  not  only  brightens  it,  but  renders 
it  less  likely  to  fade  from  exposure  to  the  air. 

2829.  Fine  Blue  Dye  for  Wood.    Into 
a  clean  glass  bottle  put  1  pound  oil  of  vitriol, 
and  4  ounces  best  indigo  pounded  in  a  mortar 
(take  care  to  set  the  bottle  in  a  basin  or  earth- 
en glazed  pan,  as  it  will  effervesce),  put  the 
veneers  into  a  copper  or  stone  trougli ;  fill  it 
rather  more  than  $•  with  water,  and  add  as 
much  of   the    vitriol  and  indigo  (stirring  it 
about)  as  will  make  a  fine  blue,  which  you 
may  know  by  trying  it  with  a  piece  of  white 
paper  or  wood ;  let  the  veneers  remain  till  the 
dye  has  struck   through.     The  color  will  be 
much  improved  if  the  solution  of  indigo  in 
vitriol  be  kept  a  few  weeks  before  using  it. 
The  color  will  also  strike  better  if  the  veneers 
be  boiled  in  plain  water  till  completely  soaked 
through,  and  left  for  a   few  hours  to  dry  par- 
tially, previous  to  immersing  them  in  the  dve. 

2830.  Bright  Green  Dye  for  Wood. 
Proceed  as  in  either  of  the  previous  receipts  to 
produce  a  yellow;     but    instead   of    adding 
aquafortis  or  the  brightening  liquid,  add  as 
much  vitriolated  indigo  (see  last  receipt)  as 
will  produce  the  desired  color. 

2831.  Bright  Bed  Dye  for  Wood.    To 
2  pounds   genuine  Brazil  dust,  add  4  gallons 
water ;  put  in  as  many  veneers  as  the  liquor 
will  cover ;  boil  them  for  3  hours ;  then  add  2 
ounces  alum,   and  2  ounces  aquafortis,  and 
keep  it  lukewarm  until  it  has  struck  through. 

2832.  Bed  Dye  for  Wood.     To  every 
pound  of  logwood  chips,  add  2  gallons  water; 
put  in  the  veneers,  and  boil  as  in  the  last; 
then  add  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  brighten- 
ing liquid  (see  No.  2828),  till  the  color  is  of  a 
satisfactory  tint ;  keep  the  whole  as  warm  as 
you  can  bear  your  finger  in  it,  till  the  color 
has    sufficiently    penetrated.     The    logwood 
chips  should  be  picked  from  all  foreign   sub- 
stances with  which  it  generally  abounds,  as 
bark,  dirt,  &c.;  and  it  is  always  best  when 
fresh  cut,    which  may  be  known  by  its  ap- 
pearing of  a  bright  red  color ;  for  if  stale,  it 
will  look  brown,  and  not  yield  so  much  color- 
ing matter. 

2833.  Bose  Colored  Dye  for  Wood. 
Monier  produces  a  fine  pink  or  rose-color  on 
wood  of  cellulose,  especially  that  of  the  ivory 
nut,   by  immersing  it  first  in  a  solution  of 
iodide  of  potassium,    1£  ounces  per  pint  of 


water,  in  which  it  remains  for  several  hours, 
when  it  is  placed  in  a  bath  of  corrosive  subli- 
mate, 135  grains  to  the  pint.  When  properly 
dyed  it  is  washed  and  varnished  over.  Wo 
should  think  that  less  poisonous  materials 
might  be  found  to  answer  tho  same  purpose. 

2834.  Bright  Purple  Dye  for  Wood. 
Boil  2  pounds  logwood,  cither  in  chips  or  pow- 
der, in  4  gallons  water,  with  the  veneers ;  after 
boiling  till  the  color  is  well  struck  in,  add  by 
degrees  vitriolated  indigo  (sec  No.  2829),  till 
the  purple  is   of  the   shade   required,   which 
may  be  known  by  trying  it  with  a  piece  of 
paper ;  let  it  then  boil  for  1  hour,  and  keep  the 
liquid  in  a  milk- warm  state  till  the  color  has 
penetrated  the  veneer.     This  method,  when 
properly  managed,   will  produce  a  brilliant 
purple. 

2835.  Orange  Dye  for  Wood.   Let  the 
veneers  be   dyed  by  either  of  tho  methods 
given  for  a  fine  deep  yellow    (sec  Nos.  2826 
and  2827),  and  while  they  are  still  wet  and 
saturated  with  the  dye,  transfer  them  to  tho 
bright  red  dye  (see  No.  2821),  till  the  color 
penetrates  equally  throughout. 

2836.  Silver-Gray  Dye  for  Wood. 
Expose  any  quantity  ot  old  iron,  or,  what  is 
better,  the  borings  of  gun-barrels,  &c.,  in  any 
convenient  vessel,  and  from  time  to  time 
sprinkle  them  with  muriatic  acid,  diluted  in 
4  times  its  quantity  of  water,  till  they  are 
very  thickly  covered  with  rust ;  then  to  every 
6  pounds  add  1  gallon  of  water  in  which  has 
been  dissolved  2  ounces  salt  of  tartar  (car- 
bonate of  potassa) ;  lay  the  veneers  in  the 
copper,  and  cover  them  with  this  liquid ;  let 
it  boil  for  2  or  3  hours  till  well  soaked,  then 
to  every  gallon  of  liquor  add  4  pound  of 
green  copperas,  and  keep  the  whole  at  a 
moderate  temperature  till  the  dye  has  suffi- 
ciently penetrated. 

2837.  To  Dye  Veneers.     Some  manu- 
facturers  of  Germany,   who  had  been  sup- 
plied from  Paris  with  veneers,  colored  through- 
out their  mass,  were  necessitated  by  the  late 
war  to  produce  them  themselves.    Mr.  Pus- 
cher  states  that  experiments  made  in  this 
direction  gave  in  the  beginning  colors  fixed 
only  on  the  outside,  while  the  inside  was  un- 
touched, until  the  veneers  were  soaked  for  24 
hours  in  a  solution  of  caustic  soda  containing 
10  per  cent,  of  soda,  and  boiled  therein  for  £ 
hour;  after  washing  them  with  sufficient  wa- 
ter to  remove  the  alkali,  they  may  be  dyed 
throughout  their  mass.     This  treatment  with 
soda  effects  a  general  disintegration  of  the 
wood,  whereby  it  becomes,  in  the  moist  state, 
elastic  and  leather-like,  and  ready  to  absorb 
the  color ;  it  must  then,  after  dyeing,  be  dried 
between  sheets  of  paper  and  subjected  to  pres- 
sure to  retain  its  shape. 

2838.  To  Dye  Veneers  Black.     Te- 
neers  treated  as  in  last  receipt  and  left  for  24 
hours  in  a  hot  decoction  of  logwood  (1  part 
logwood  to  3  water),   removing  them  after  j 
the  lapse  of  that  time,  and,  after  drying  them 
superficially,  putting  them  into  a  hot  solution 
of  copperas  (1  part  copperas  to  30  water), 
will,  alter  24  hours,  become  beautifully  and 
completely  dyed  black. 

2839.  To  Dye  Veneers  Yellow.      A 
solution  of  1  part  picric  acid  in  60  water, 
with  the  addition  of  so  much  ammonia  as  to 
become  perceptible  to  the  smell,  dyes  veneers 


262 


TO    STAIN  WOOD. 


yellow,  which  color  is  not  in  the  least  affected 
by  subsequent  varnishing.  Before  dyeing, 
the  veneers  require  the  preparatory  treatment 
given  in  No.  2837. 

2840.  To  Dye  Veneers  Rose-Color. 
Coralline  dissolved  in  hot  water,  to  which  a 
little  caustic  soda  and  one-fifth  of  its  volume 
of  soluble   glass  has   been  added,   produces 
rose-colors  of  different  shades,  dependent  on 
the   amount   of   coralline  taken.      (See  No. 
2837.) 

2841.  To  Dye  Veneers  Silver-Gray. 
The  only  color  which  veneers  will  take  up, 
without  previous  treatment  of  soda,  is  silver- 
gray,  produced  by  soaking  them  for  a  day  in  a 
solution  of  1  part  copperas  to  100  parts  water. 


'O     Stain     Wood.        Staining 

wood  is  altogether  a  different  process 

from  dyeing  it,  and  requires  no  preparation 
before  the  stain  be  applied.  In  preparing  the 
stain,  but  little  trouble  is  required;  and, 
generally  speaking,  its  application  differs  very 
little  from  that  of  painting.  "When  carefully 
done,  and  properly  varnished,  staining  has  a 
very  beautiful  appearance,  and  is  much  less 
likely  to  meet  with  injury  than  japanning. 

2843.  Black  Stain  for  Immediate 
Use.  Boil  i  pound  chip  logwood  in  2  quarts 
water,  add  1  ounce  pearlash,  and  apply  it  hot 
to  the  work  with  a  brush.  Then  take  4 
pound  logwood,  boil  it  as  before  in  2  quarts 
water,  and  add  $  ounce  verdigris  and  i  ounce 
green  copperas ;  strain  it  off,  put  in  £  pound 
rusty  steel  filings;  with  this,  go  over  the 
work  a  second  time. 

2844.  To  Stain  Wood  Like  Ebony. 
Take  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron  (green 
copperas),  and  wash  the  wood  over  with  it 
2  or  3  times;  let  it  dry,  and  apply  2  or  3  coats 
of  a  strong  hot  decoction  of  logwood ;  wipe 
the  wood,  when  dry,  with  a  sponge  and  wa- 
ter, and  polish  with  linseed  oil. 

2845.  To  Stain  Wood  Light  Mahog- 
any Color.  Brush  over  the  surface  with 
diluted  nitrous  acid,  and  when  dry  apply  the 
following,  with  a  soft  brush :  dragon's  blood, 
4  ounces;  common  soda,  1  ounce ;  spirit  of 
wine,  3  pints.  Let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place, 
shake  it  frequently,  and  then  strain.  Kepeat 
the  application  until  the  proper  color  is 
obtained. 

2846.  To    Stain    Dark    Mahogany 
Color.     Boil  •$•  pound  madder  and  2  ounces 
logwood  in  1  gallon  water;  then  brush  the 
wood  well  over  with  the  hot  liquid.     "When 
dry,  go  over  the  whole  with  a  solution  of  2 
drachms  pearlash  in  1  quart  water. 

2847.  To   Stain  Mahogany  Color. 
Pure    Socotrine    aloes,    1    ounce;    dragon's 
blood,  £  ounce ;    rectified  spirit,  1  pint ;  dis- 
solve, and  apply  2  or  3  coats  to  the  surface  of 
the  wood ;  finish  off  with  wax  or  oil  tinged 
with  alkanet.    Or :  "Wash  over  the  wood  with 
strong  aquafortis,  and  when  dry,  apply  a  coat 
of  the  above  varnish ;    polish  as  last.  •  Or : 
Logwood,  2  ounces;  madder,  8  ounces;  fustic, 
1  ounce ;  water,  1  gallon ;  boil  2  hours,  and 
apply  it  several  times  to  the  wood  boiling 
hot;  when  dry,  slightly  brush  it  over  with  a 
solution  of   pearlash,   1   ounce,    in  water,  1 


quart ;  dry  and  polish  as  before.  Or  :  Log- 
wood, 1  part ;  water,  8  parts.  Make  a  decoc- 
tion and  apply  it  to  the  wood ;  when  dry, 
give  it  2  or  3  coats  of  the  following  varnish : 
dragon's  blood,  1  part;  spirits  of  wine,  20 
parts.  Mix. 

2848.  Beech-wood  Mahogany.  Dis- 
solve 2  ounces  dragon's  blood  and  1  ounce 
aloes  in  1  quart  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  and 
apply  it  to  the  surface  of  the  wood  previ- 
ously well  polished.  Or  :  "Wash  over  the  sur- 
face of  the  wood  with  aquafortis,  and  when 
thoroughly  dry  give  it  a  coat  of  the  above 
varnish.  Or :  Boil  1  pound  logwood  chips  in 
2  quarts  water,  and  add  2  handfuls  of  walnut 
peel ;  boil  again,  then  strain,  and  add  1  pint 
good  vinegar ;  apply  as  above. 

2849.  Artificial    Mahogany.      The 
following  method   of  giving  any   species   of 
wood  of  a  close  grain  the  appearance  of  ma- 
hogany in  texture,  density,  and  polish,  is  said 
to  be  practiced  in  France  with  success.     The 
surface  is  planed  smooth,  and  the  wood  is 
then  rubbed  with  a  solution  of  nitrous  acid  ; 
1  ounce  dragon's  blood  is  dissolved  in  nearly 
a  pint  of  spirits  of  wine  ;    this,  and  -J-  ounce 
carbonate  of  soda,  are  then  to  be  mixed  to- 
gether and  filtered,   and  the  liquid   in  this 
thin  state  is  to  be  laid  on  with  a  soft  brush. 
This  pro/jess  is  to  be  repeated,  and  in  a  short 
interval  afterwards  the  wood  possesses   the 
external  appearance  of  mahogany.      "When 
the  polish  diminishes  in  brilliancy,  it  may  be 
restored  by  the  use  of  a  little  cold-drawn 
linseed  oil. 

2850.  Fine   Black    Stain.     Boil    1 
pound    logwood    in  4   quarts  water,   add   a 
double  handful  of  walnut-peel  or  shells  ;   boil 
it  up  again,  take  out  the  chips,  add'  1   pint 
best  vinegar,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use ;  apply 
it  boiling  hot.      This  will  be  improved   by 
applying  a  hot  solution  of  green  copperas 
dissolved  in  water   (an   ounce  to  a  quart), 
over  the  first  stain. 

2851.  To  Imitate  B-osewood.     Boil  J 
pound  logwood  in  3  pints  water  till  it  is  of  a 
very  dark  red;   add  h  ounce  salt  of  tartar 
(carbonate  of  potassa).     "While  boiling  hot, 
stain  the  wood  with  2  or  3  coats,  taking  care 
that  it  is  nearly  dry  between  each ;  then,  with 
a  stiff  flat  brush,  such  as  is  used  by  the  paint- 
ers for  graining,  form  streaks  with  the  black 
stain  above  named  (see  last  receipt),  which, 
if  carefully  executed,  will  be  very  nearly  the 
appearance  of  dark  rosewood;  or,  the  black 
streaks  may  be  put  in  with  a  camel's  hair  pen- 
cil, dipped  in  a  solution  of  copperas  and  verdi- 
gris in  a  decoction  of  logwood.  A  handy  brush 
for  the  purpose  may  be  made  out  of  a  flat 
brush,  such  as  is  used  for  varnishing ;  cut  the 
sharp  points  off,  and  make  the  edges  irregular, 
by  cutting  out  a  few  hairs  here  and  there,  and 
you  will  have  a  tool  which  will  accurately 
imitate  the  grain. 

2852.  To  Imitate  Rosewood.     Stain 
with  the  black   stain   (see  No.  2850) ;    and 
when  dry,  with  a  brush  dipped  in  the  bright- 
ening liquid  (see  No.  2828),  form  red  veins,  in 
imitation  of  the   grain   of  rosewood,   which 
will  produce  a  beautiful  effect. 

2853.  New    Stain  for  Wood.      Per- 
manganate of  potassa  is  recommended  as  a 
rapid  and  excellent  stain  for  wood.     A  solu- 
tion of  it  spread  upon  pear  or  cherry  wood, 


VARNISH. 


263 


for  a  few  minutes,  leaves  a  permanent  dark 
brown  color,  which,  after  careful  washing, 
drying,  and  oiling,  assumes  a  reddish  tint  upon 
being  polished. 

2854.  Stolzel's   Method  of  Staining 
Wood  Brown.     Dr.  Stolzel  adds  another  to 
the  many  receipts  already  given  for  staining 
wood  of  a  brown  color.     First  of  all  paint 
over    the  wood  with  a    solution    made    by 
boiling  1  part  of  catechu  (Cutch  or  Gambier) 
with  30  parts  water  and  a  little  soda.     This  is 
allowed  to  dry  in  the  air,  and  the  wood  is 
then  painted  over  with  another  solution  made 
of  1  part  bichromate  of  potash  and  30  parts 
water.     By  a  little  difference  in  the  mode  of 
treatment,  aud  by  varying  the  strength  of  the 
solutions,   various  shades  of   color  may  be 
given  with  these  materials,   which  will  be 
permanent  and  tend  to  preserve  the  wood. 

2855.  To  Darken  Light  Mahogany. 
"When   furniture    is    repaired,  it    frequently 
happens  that  the  old  wood  cannot  be  matched, 
and  therefore  the  work  presents  a  patched  ap- 
pearance.    To  prevent  this,  wash  the  pieces 
introduced,  with  soap-lees,  or  dissolve  quick- 
lime in  water,  and  use  in  the  same  manner; 
but  be  careful  not  to  let  either  be  too  strong, 
or  it  will  make  the  wood  too  dark ;  it  is  best, 
therefore,  to  use  it  rather  weak  at  first,  and, 
if  not  dark  enough,  repeat  the  process  till  the 
wood  is  sufficiently  darkened. 

2856.  Bed  Stain  for  Bedsteads  and 
Common  Chairs.     Archil  will  produce    a 
very  good  stain  of  itself,  when  used  cold ;  but 
if,  after  1  or  2  coats  being  applied  and  suffered 
to  get  almost  dry,  it  is  brushed  over  with  a  hot 
solution  of  pearlash  in  water,  it  will  improve 
the  color. 

2857.  To  Improve  the  Color  of  any 
Stain.     Mix  in  a  bottle  1  ounce  of  nitric 
acid,  i  tea-spoonful  muriatic  acid,  J  ounce 
grain  tin,  and  2  ounces  rain  water.     Mix  it  at 
least  2  days  before  using,  and  keep  the  bottle 
well  corked. 

2858.  To  Stain  Musical  Instruments 
and  Fancy  Boxes.    Fancy  work  necessitates 
the  employment  of  brighter  colors  than  those 
used  for  furniture ;  we  therefore  give  the  fol- 
lowing receipts  for  preparing  and  applying 
those  most  commonly  employed  for  such  pur- 
poses. 

2859.  Fine  Crimson  Stain.      Boil  1 
pound  good  Brazil  dust  in  3  quarts  water  for 
an  hour;  strain  it,  and  add  i  ounce  cochineal; 
boil  it  again  gently  for  i  an  hour,  and  it  will 
be  fit  for  use.     If  required  of  a  more  scarlet 
tint,  boil  4  ounce  saffron  in  1  quart  of  water 
for  an  hour,  and  pass  over  the  work  previous 
to  the  red  stain. 

2860.  Fine  Green  Stain.     To  3  pints 
strongest  vinegar,  add  4  ounces  best  verdigris 
pounded  fine,  4  ounce  sap  green,  and  £  ounce 
indigo.  Distilled  vinegar,  or  verjuice,  improves 
the  color. 

2861.  Purple  Stain.     To  1  pound  good 
chip  logwood,  put  3  quarts  water;  boil  it  well 
for  an  hour ;  then  add  4  ounces  pearlash,  and 
2  ounces  pounded  indigo. 

2862.  Fine  Blue  Stain.     Into  1  pound 
oil  of  vitriol  (sulphuric  acid)  in  a  clean  glass 

*  phial,  put  4  ounces  indigo,  and  proceed  as 
above  directed  in  dyeing  purple. 

2863.  Bright  Yellow  Stain.     Wood 
need  not  be  stained  yellow,  as  a  small  piece 


of  aloes  put  into  the  varnish  will  have  the  de- 
sired effect. 

2864.  Fine  Black  Stain.  As  a  general 
thing,  when  black  is  required  in  musical  in- 
struments, it  is  produced  by  japanning;  the 
work  being  well  prepared  with  size  and  lamp- 
black, apply  the  black  japan  (see  No.  2322), 
after  which,  varnish  and  polish.  But  as  a 
black  stain  is  sometimes  required  for  finger- 
boards, bridges,  and  flutes,  proceed  as  directed 
in  staining  (see  No.  2850);  the  wood,  how- 
ever, ought  to  be  either  pear,  apple,  or  box- 
wood; the  latter  is  preferable;  and  if  it  be 
rubbed  over,  when  dry,  with  a  rag  or  flannel 
dipped  in  hot  oil,  it  will  give  it  a  gloss  equal 
to  ebony. 

2865.  To  Stain  Boxwood  Brown. 
Hold  the  work  to  the  fire,  that  it  may  receive 
a  gentle  warmth;  then  take  aquafortis,  and 
with  a  feather  pass  over-  the  work  until  it 
changes  to  a  fine  brown  (always  keeping  it 
near  the  fire) ;  then  oil  and  polish  it. 

2866.  Cane  Staining.  By  the  following 
simple  process,  canes  and  similar  sticks  may 
be  stained  a  rich  brown:  Dissolve  a  few 
grains  sulphate  of  manganese  in  sufficient 
water  to  take  it  up ;  moisten  the  surface  of 
the  cane  with  it,  and  hold  it  over  the  flame  of 
a  spirit  lamp  close  enough  to  scorch  it.  By 
care,  the  whole  surface  may  be  brought  to  a 
uniform  rich  brown,  or  beautifully  variegated 
by  heating  some  parts  more  than  others;  thus 
varying  the  color  from  white  to  the  deepest 
black.  The  color  will  appear  dull  at  first; 
but,  on  oiling  it  with  raw  linseed  oil,  and  rub- 
bing it  with  a  smooth  piece  of  hard  wood,  it 
will  be  beautifully  developed.  Give  the  cane 
no  other  finish,  unless  it  be  another  oiling  some 
days  after  the  first. 


Varilisll.  Tarnishes  may  be  con- 
veniently divided  into  two  kinds,  viz., 
spirit  and  oil  varnishes.  Concentrated  alcohol 
is  used  as  the  solvent  in  the  former,  aud  fixed 
or  volatile  oils,  or  mixtures  of  the  two,  for  tho 
latter.  The  specific  gravity  of  alcohol  for  the ' 
purpose  of  making  varnishes  should  not  bo 
greater  than  0.820  (that  is,  not  below  about 
93  per  cent).  Camphor  is  often  dissolved  in 
it  to  increase  its  solvent  powers.  The  oil  of 
turpentine,  which  is  the  essential  oil  chiefly 
employed,  should  be  pure  and  colorless.  Pale 
drying  linseed  oil  is  the  fixed  oil  generally 
used  for  varnishes,  but  poppy  and  nut  oil  aro 
also  occasionally  employed.  Among  the  sub- 
stances employed  in  the  manufacture  of  var- 
nishes are  turpentine,  copal,  mastich,  lac, 
elemi,  sandarach,  anime,  and  amber,  to  impart 
body  and  lustre;  benzoin  to  impart  scent; 
gamboge,  turmeric,  saffron,  annotto,  and 
Socotrine  aloes,  to  give  a  yellow  color ;  dra- 
gon's blood  to  give  a  red  tinge ;  asphaltum  to 
give  a  black  color  and  body ;  caoutchouc  to 
inpart  body,  toughness,  and  elasticity.  Var- 
nish constitutes  a  distinct  branch  of  manufac- 
ture, and  many  of  them  can  be  advantageously 
or  safely  made  only  on  the  large  scale  on 
premises  adapted  for  the  purpose. 

2868.  Preparation  of  Linseed  Oil  for 
Making  Oil  Varnishes.  In  the  manufacture 
of  oil  varnishes,  one  of  the  most  important 


264: 


OIL    VAENISEES. 


points  is  the  use  of  good  drying  oil.  Linseed 
oil  for  this  purpose  should  be  pale,  limpid, 
brilliant,  scarcely  odorous,  and  mellow  and 
sweet  to  the  taste.  100  gallons  of  such  oil 
arc  put  into  an  iron  or  copper  boiler  capable 
of  holding  150  gallons,  and  gradually  heated 
to  a  gentle  simmer  for  2  hours,  to  expel  mois- 
ture; the  scum  is  then  carefully  removed,  and 
14  pounds  scale  litharge,  12  pounds  red  lead, 
and  8  pounds  powdered  umber  (all  carefully 
dried  and  free  from  moisture),  are  gradually 
sprinkled  in;  the  whole  is  then  kept  well 
stirred,  to  prevent  the  dryers  sinking  to  the 
bottom,  und  the  boiling  is  continued  at  a 
gentle  heat,  for  3  hours  longer;  the  fire  is 
next  withdrawn,  and,  iu  24  to  36  hours,  the 
scum  is  carefully  removed,  and  the  clear  oil 
decanted  from  the  bottom.  This  forms  the 
best  boiled  or  drying  oil. 

2869.  Clarified  Oil  for  Varnish.    When 
boiled  oil  is  used  for  making  varnish,  and  a 
still  further  clarifying  is  deemed  advisable,  it 
is  placed  in  a  copper  pan  holding  from  80  to 
100  gallons,  and  heat  gradually  applied  till 
the  scum  rises,  after  removing  which  the  oil 
is  allowed  to  boil  for  about  2  hours,  when  it  is 
dosed  with  calcined  magnesia,  in  the  propor- 
tion of  an  ounce  to  every  4  gallons  of  oil,  but 
added  by  degrees  and  with  occasional  stirring*. 
This  being  completed,  the  oil  is  again  boiled 
briskly  for  about  an  hour,  and  then,  the  fur- 
nace being  drawn,  allowed  to  cool.     When 
the  temperature  is  sufficiently  reduced,  it  is 
removed  to  leaden  cisterns,  where  it  is  stored 
till  fit  for  use. 

2870.  Clarified  Linseed  Oil  for  Var- 
nishes.    Heat  in  a  copper  boiler  50  gallons 
of  linseed  oil  to  280°  Fahr.;  add  2i  pounds  of 
calcined  white  vitriol,  and  keep  the  oil  at  the 
above  temperature  for  i  hour ;  then  remove 
it  from  the  fire,  and  in  24  hours  decant  the 
clear  oil,  which  should  stand  for  a  few  weeks 
before  it  is  used  for  varnish. 

2871.  Wilks?  Refined  Linseed  Oil.    In 
236  gallons  oil  pour  6  pounds  oil  of  vitriol, 
and  stir  them  together  for  3  hours ;  then  add 
6  pounds  fullers'  earth,  well  mixed  with  14 
'pounds  hot  lime,  and  stir  for  3  hours.     Put 

the  oil  into  a  copper  boiler,  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  water,  and  boil  for  3  hours ;  then 
extinguish  the  fire,  and  when  the  materials 
are  cold  draw  off  the  water,  and  let  the  oil 
stand  to  settle  for  a  few  weeks  before  using. 

2872.  Boiled  Oil  for  Varnishes.    Mix 
100  gallons  linseed  oil  and  7  pounds  calcined 
white  vitriol  (sulphate  of  zinc)  in  fine  powder, 
in  a  clean  copper  boiler;  heat  it  to  285°  Fahr., 
and  keep  it  at  that  temperature  for  at  least  an 
hour,  constantly  stirring  it;  then  allow  it  to 
cool;  in  24  hours  decant  the  clear  portion, 
and  in  3  or  4  weeks  rack  it  for  use. 

2873.  Cautions  Respecting  the  Ma- 
king of  Varnish.     As  heat  in  many  cases  is 
necessaiy  to  dissolve  the  gums  used  in  ma- 
king varnish,  the  best  way,  when  practicable, 
is  to  use  a  sand-bath,  which  is  simply  placing 
the  vessel  containing  the  varnish,  in  another 
filled  with  sand  and  placed  on  the  fire.     This 
will  generally  be   sufficient   to  prevent  the 
spirits  catching  fire ;  but  to  avoid  such  an  ac- 
cident (which  not  unfrequently  happens),  it 
will  be  best  to  take  a  vessel  sufficiently  large 
to  prevent  any  danger  of  spilling  its  contents ; 
indeed,  the  vessel  should  never  be  more  than 


two-thirds  filled.  However,  a  piece  of  board 
sufficiently  large  to  cover  the  top  of  the  ves- 
sel should  always  be  at  hand  in  case  the  spirits 
should  take  fire ;  as  also  a  wet  wrapper,  in 
case  it  should  be  spilled,  as  water  itself  thrown 
on  would  only  increase  the  mischief.  The 
person  who  attends  the  varnish-pot  should 
have  his  hands  covered  with  gloves,  and,  if 
they  are  made  of  leather,  and  rather  damp,  it 
will  effectually  prevent  injury.  These  cau- 
tions should  be  well  observed,  or  shocking 
personal  injury  may  result  from  their  neglect. 
In  the  city,  it  is  hardly  worth  while  to  make 
varnish,  unless  in  large  quantities,  as  there 
are  many  stores  where  it  may  be  had  very 
good,  and  at  a  fair  price ;  but  in  the  country, 
where  the  freight  is  an  object,  and  you  can- 
not depend  upon  the  genuineness  of  the  article, 
it  is  necessary  to  be  known  by  the  practical 
mechanic  how  to  make  it ;  when  it  is  avail- 
able, it  is  best  to  purchase  it.  The  varnish 
generally  sold  for  varnishing  furniture  is  white 
hard  varnish. 


Oil  VarnislieS.  These,  the  most 
durable  and  lustrous  of  varnishes,  .are 
composed  of  a  mixture  of  resin,  oil,  and  spirit 
of  turpentine.  The  oils  most  frequently  em- 
ployed are  linseed  and  walnut;  the  resins 
chiefly  used  are  copal  and  amber,  and  some 
other  gums.  The  drying  power  of  the  oil  hav- 
ing been  increased  by  litharge,  red  lead,  or  by 
sulphate  of  lead,  and  a  judicious  selection  of 
copal  having  been  made,  it  is  necessary,  ac- 
cording to  Booth,  to  bear  in  mind  the  following 
facts  before  proceeding  to  the  manufacture  of 
varnish:  1.  That  varnish  is  not  a  solution, 
but  an  intimate  mixture  of  resin  with  boiled 
oil  and  spirit  of  turpentine.  2.  That  the 
resin  must  be  completely  fused  previous  to 
the  addition  of  the  boiled  or  prepared  oil.  3. 
That  the  oil  must  be  heated  from  250°  to  300°. 
4.  That  the  spirit  of  turpentine  must  be  add- 
ed gradually,  and  in  a  thin  stream,  while  the 
mixture  of  oil  and  resm  is  still  hot.  5.  That 
the  varnish  be  made  in  dry  weather,  otherwise 
moisture  is  absorbed,  and  its  transparency  and 
drying  quality  impaired.  Of  late  years  it  has 
been  practically  demonstrated  that  not  only  is 
there  no  necessity  for  boiling  the  oil  and  gum 
after  incorporation,  but  that  the  produce  is 
equally  good  if  the  turpentine  be  added  just 
before  the  mixture  becomes  too  cold  to  permit 
of  a  perfect  amalgamation.  In  fact,  it  is  now 
acknowledged  that  the  oil  need  not  be  raised 
to  a  higher  temperature  than  that  at  which 
the  gum  employed  fuses,  and  that  when  the 
two  are  mixed  the  lowest  possible  degree  of 
heat  which  will  insure  their  incorporation,  is 
sufficient  to  secure  all  the  results  desired.  By 
this  method  a  large  quantity  of  the  turpentine 
formerly  lost  in  evaporation  is  saved,  and 
there  is,  moreover,  less  risk  of  fire.  The  heat- 
ing vessel  must  be  of  copper,  of  a  capacity  at 
least  one-third  more  gallons  than  the  mixture 
to  bo  introduced  into  it,  with  a  riveted  and 
not  a  soldered  bottom.  To  promote  the  ad- 
mixture of  the  copal  with  the  hot  oil,  the  co- 
pal— carefully  selected  and  of  nearly  uniform 
fusibility — is  separately  heated  with  contin- 
uous stirring  over  a  moderate  charcoal  fire 
kept  constantly  supplied  with  fuel,  without 


OIL    VARNISHES. 


disturbing  the  kettle  until  the  completion  of 
the  mixture  with  the  oil.  If  the  copal  is  melt- 
ed in  the'  hot  oil,  the  resulting  varnish  i.-;  more 
colored  a'nd  less  drying.  There  is,  however, 
great  care  required  in  fusing  the  copal  by  it- 
self; for  if  the  heat  is  too  much  prolonged, 
the  resin  becomes  pitchy,  and  gives  an  inferior 
varnish.  Constant  stirring  is  requisite  to  pre- 
vent adhesion  to  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the 
vessel,  and  consequent  scorching.  The  pieces 
of  copal  should  bo  of  uniform  fusibility ;  the 
different  varieties,  therefore,  should  not  be 
fused  together,  for  that  which  melts  first  is 
apt  to  scorch  before  the  more  refractory  are 
fused.  If  it  is  desired  to  mix  different  varie- 
ties, they  should  be  fused  separately  and  then 
mixed  in  fluid  state.  When  the  resin  is  thor- 
oughly melted,  the  hot  oil  is  to  be  ladled  in 
gradually  during  constant  stirring.  To  deter- 
mine when  sufficient  oil  has  been  added,  a 
drop  must  be  now  and  then  taken  out  and 
cooled  upon  a  glass  plate.  If,  on  cooling,  it  is 
limpid  and  wax-like,  penetrable  with  the 
nail  without  cracking,  the  proportion  of  oil  is 
sufficient ;  if,  however,  it  is  hard  and  brittle, 
more  oil  is  required.  Sorno  resins  absorb 
more  oil  than  others.  The  spirits  of  turpen- 
tine should  bo  heated,  and  added  in  a  thin 
stream  to  the  oil  and  resin  while  still  hot. 
Care  must  bo  taken  not  to  add  the  turpentine 
while  the  mixture  is  too  hot,  as  too  much  of 
the  turpentine  will  bo  lost  by  evaporation; 
but  if  the  mixture  gets  too  cool  it  becomes 
sticky,  the  addition  of  turpentine  must  be 
stopped,  and  it  must  be  replaced  over  the  fire 
and  heated  gradually  up  to  G00°.  Limpidity 
is  thus  restored,  and,  upon  removal  from  the 
fire,  sufficient  turpentine  should  bo  added  to 
impart  the  proper  consistence  ;  but  this  extra 
heating  injures  the  quality  of  the  varnish. 

2875.  Common  Oil 'Varnish.      Eesin, 
3   pounds;    drying  oil,    i  gallon;   melt  to- 
gether, and  add,  when  removed  from  the  fire, 
2  quarts  warm  oil  of  turpentine. 

2876.  Oil  Copal  Varnish.     Pale  hard 
copal,  2  pounds ;  fuse,  add  hot  drying  oil,  1 
pint;  boil  as  before  directed,  and  thin  with 

011  of  turpentine,   3  pints,  more  or  less,  as 
found  necessary.     Very  pale.     Dries  hard  in 

12  to  24  hours. 

2877.  Best  Pale   Carriage  Varnish. 
Pale  African  copal,  8  pounds ,~  fuse,  and  add 
clarified  linseed  oil,  2J-  gallons  ;  boil  till  very 
stringy,  then  add  dried  copperas  and  litharge, 
of  each  £  pound ;  boil  as  before  directed,  thin 
with  oil  of  turpentine,  5£  gallons;  mix  while 
hot  with  the  following  varnish,  aad  immedi- 
ately strain  the  mixture  into  a  covered  vessel : 
Gum  anime,  8  pounds ;    clarified  linseed  oil, 
2i  gallons ;  dried  sugar  of  lead  and  litharge, 
of  each  i  pound ;  boil  as  before,  thin  with  oil 
of  turpentine,  5£  gallons,  and   mix  it  while 
hot  with  the  last  varnish  as'  above  directed. 
Dries  in  4  hours  in  summer  and  G  in  winter. 
Used  for  the  wheels,  springs,  and   carnage 
parts  of  coaches  and  other  vehicles,  and  by 
house  painters,  decorators,  <tc.,  who  want  a 
strong,  quick-drying,  and  durable  varnish. 

2878.  Ordinary    Carriage   Varnish. 
Sorted  gum  anirno,  8  pounds ;  clarified  oil,  3 
gallons ;    litharge,  5  ounces ;  dried  and  pow- 
dered sugar  of  lead  and  white  copperas,  of 
each  4  ounces ;    boil  as  last,  and  thin  with  oil 
of  turpentine,  5i  gallons. 


2879.  Amber  Varnish.  Amber,  1 
pound;  pale  boiled  oil,  10  ounces ;  turpentine, 
1  pint.  Render  the  amber,  placed  in  an  iron 
pot,  semi-liquid  by  heat;  then  add  the  oil, 
mix,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and,  when  cooled 
a  little,  stir  in  the  turpentine.  Or:  To  the 
amber,  melted  as  above,  add  2  ounces  of 
shellac,  and  proceed  as  before.  This  varnish 
is  rather  dark,  but  remarkably  tough.  The 
first  form  is  the  best.  It  is  used  for  the  sairfo 
purposes  as  copal  varnish,  and  forms  an  ex- 
cellent article  for  covering  wood,  or  any 
other  substance  not  of  a  white  or  very  pale 
color.  It  dries  -well,  and  is  very  hard  and 
durable. 

2880.  Black  Amber  Varnish.      Am- 
ber, 1  pound ;   boiled  oil,  ^  pint ;    powdered 
asphaltum,  G  ounces;    oil  of  turpentine,  1 
pint.     Melt  the  amber,  as  before  described, 
then  add  the  asphaltum,  previously  mixed 
with  the  cold  oil,  and  afterwards  heated  very 
hot;  mix  well,  remove  the  vessel  from  tho 
fire,  and,  when  cooled  a  little,  add  'the  turpen- 
tine, also  made  warm.     Each  of  the  above 
two  varnishes  should  be  reduced  to  a  proper 
consistence  with  more  turpentine  if    it  bo 
required.     The  last  form  produces  the  beauti- 
ful black  varnish  used  by  the  coachmakers. 
Some  manufacturers  omit  tho  whole  or  part 
of  the  asphaltum,  and  use  the  same  quantity 
of  clear  black  resin  instead,  in  which  case  tho 
color  is  brought  up  by  lampblack  reduced  to 
an  impalpable  powder,  or  previously  ground 
very  fine  with  a  little  boiled  oil.    The  varnish 
made  in  this  way  lacks,  however,  that  rich- 
ness, brilliancy,  and  depth  of  blackness  im- 
parted by  asphaltum. 

2881.  Pale  Amber  Varnish.     Amber, 
pale  and  transparent,  G  pounds ;  fuse,  add  hot 
clarified  linseed  oil,  2  gallons;    boil   till  it 
strings  strongly,  cool  a  little,  and  add  oil  of 
turpentine,  4  gallons.     Pale  as  copal  varnish ; 
soon  becomes  very  hard,   and  is  the  most 
durable  of  oil  varnishes;    but  requires  time 
before  it  is  fit  for  polishing.    "When  wanted 
to  dry  and  harden  quicker,  drying  oil  may  be 
substituted  for  linseed,   or   dryers    may  be 
added  during  the  boiling. 

2882.  Tough  Amber  Varnish.     Am- 
ber, 1  pound;   melt,  add  Scio  turpentine,  i 
pound;    transparent  white  resin,  2  ounces; 
hot  linseed  oil,  1  pint ;    and  afterwards  suffi- 
cient oil  of  turpentine  as  above.     Very  tough. 

2883.  Hard  Amber  Varnish.     Melted 
amber,  4  ounces ;  hot  boiled  oil,  1  quart ;  as 
before. 

2884.  Very  Pale  Amber    Varnish. 
Very  pale  and  transparent  amber,  4  ounces  ; 
clarified  linseed  oil  and  oil  of  turpentine,  of 
each  1  pint;    as  before.     Amber  varnish  is 
suited  for  all  purposes  where  a  very  hard  and 
durable   oil  varnish  is  required.     Tho   paler 
kind  is  superior  to  copal  varnish,  and  is  often 
mixed  with  the  latter  to  increase  its  hardness 
and  durability. 

2885.  Varnish  for  "Waterproof  Goods. 
Let  k  pound  of  India-rubber,  in  small  pieces, 
soften  in  £  pound  of  oil  of  turpentine,  then 
add  2  pounds  boiled  oil,  and  let  tho  whole 
boil  for  2  hours  over  a  slow  coal  fire.    "When 
dissolved,  add  again  6  pounds  boiled  linseed 
oil  and   1  pound  litharge,  and  boil  until  an 
even  liquid  is  obtained.     It  is  applied  warm, 
and  forms  a  waterproof  coating. 


266 


SPIRIT    VARNISHES. 


2886.  India-Rubber    Oil   Varnish. 
Take  4  ounces  India-rubber  in  fine  shavings, 
•dissolve  in  a  covered  jar  by  means  of  a  sand- 
bath,  in  2  pounds  of  crude  benzole,  and  then 
mix  with  4  pounds  hot  linseed  oil  varnish, 
and  -J  pound  oil  of  turpentine.     Dries  well. 

2887.  India-Rubber    Oil   Varnish. 
Cut  up  1  pound  India-rubber  into  small  pieces 
and  diffuse  in  -J-  pound  sulphuric  ether,  which 
is  done  by  digestion  in  a  glass  flask  on  a 
sand-bath.     Then  add  1   pound  pale  linseed 
oil    varnish,    previously    heated,    and    after 
settling,   1    pound    oil    of    turpentine,    also 
heated  beforehand.     Filter,  while  yet  warm, 
into  bottles.    Dries  slowly. 

2888.  Gutta-Percha   Oil    Varnish. 
Clean  i  pound  gutta-percha  in.  warm  water 
from  adhering  impurities,  dry  well,  dissolve 
in  1  pound  of  rectified  resin  oil,  and  add  2 
pounds  linseed  oil  varnish,  boiling  hot.    Yery 
suitable  to  prevent  metals  from  oxidation. 

2889.  Champagnat's   India-Rubber 
Varnish.     In  a  wide-mouthed  glass  bottle, 
digest  2  ounces  India-rubber  in  fine  shavings, 
with  1  pound  oil  of  turpentine,  during  2  days, 
without  shaking,  then  stir  up  with  a  wooden 
spatula.    Add  another  pound  oil  of  turpen- 
tine,   and    digest,  with   frequent    agitation, 
until  all  is  dissolved.     Then  mix  Ik  pounds 
of  this  solution  with  2  pounds  of  verv  white 
copal  oil  varnish,  and  li  pounds  well  boiled 
linseed  oil ;   shake  and  digest  in  a  sand-bath, 
until  they  hav«  united  in  a  good  varnish. 
For  morocco  leather. 

2890.  Flexible  Varnish.    Melt  1  pound 
of  resin,  and  add  gradually  i  pound  India- 
rubber  in  very  fine  shavings,  and  stir  until 
cold.     Then  heat  again,  slowly,  add  1  pound 
linseed  oil  varnish,  neated,  and  filter. 

2891.  Flexible  Varnish.      Dissolve  1 
pound  of  gum  damar,  and  i  pound  India- 
rubber  in  very  small  pieces,  in  1  pound  oil  of 
turpentine,  by  means  of  a  water-bath.    Add 
1  pound  hot  oil  varnish  and  filter. 

2892.  Hair  Varnish.     Dissolve  1  part 
of  clippings  of  pigs'  bristles,  or  of  horse-hair, 
in  10  parts  of  drying  linseed  oil  by  heat. 
Fibrous  materials  (cotton,  flax,   silk,   <fcc.), 
imbued  with  the  varnish  and  dried,  are  used 
as  a  substitute  for  hair-cloth. 

2893.  Cabinet  Varnish.    Fuse  7  pounds 
African  copal,  and  pour  on  it  4  pints  hot 
clarified  linseed  oil ;  in  3  or  4  minutes,  if  it 
feels  stringy,   take  it  out  of  the  building, 
where  there  is  no  fire  near,  and  when  it  has 
cooled  to  150°  mix  in  3  gallons  oil  of  turpen- 
tine of  the  same  temperature,  or  sufficient  to 
bring  it  to  a  due  consistence. 

2894.  Bessemer's   Varnish  for  Me- 
tallic Paint.     This  is  made  with  8  pounds 
copal,  2£  gallons  drying  oil,  and  25  gallons 
oil  of  turpentine.      These  are  made  into  a 
varnish  nearly  as  directed  for  Cabinet  Tar- 
nish  (see  No.  2893);  and  afterwards  mixed 
with  a  gallon  of  slacked  lime  and  left  for  3 
days  to   settle.      The  clear  portion  is  then 
drawn  off,  and  5  parts  of  varnish  mixed  with 
4  parts  of  bronze  powder. 

2895.  Mahogany  Varnish.  Sorted 
gum  anime,  8  pounds;  clarified  oil,  3  gallons ; 
litharge  and  powdered  dried  sugar  of  lead,  of 
each  i  pound;  boil  till  it  strings  well,  then 
cool  a  little,  thin  with  oil  of  turpentine,  5^ 
gallons,  and  strain. 


2896.  Italian  Varnish.     Boil  Scio  tur- 
pentine till  brittle;  powder,  and  dissolve  in 
oil  of  turpentine.     Or:    Canada  balsam  and 
clear  white  resin,  of  each  6  ounces;   oil  of 
turpentine,  1  quart,  dissolved.    Used  for  prints, 
engravings,  &c. 

2897.  Varnish  for  Printers'  Ink.     To 
every  10  pounds  clarified  linseed  oil  add  5 
pounds  clear  black  resin,  and  •£  pound  oil  of 
turpentine.     It  is  then  ready  for  mixing  with 
lampblack  or  other  coloring  matter.    A  twelfth 
part  of  Canada  balsam  is  sometimes  added  for 
the  finer  parts. 

2898.  Varnish  for  Frames  for  Hot 
Beds.     Mix  4  ounces  pulverized  white  cheese, 

2  ounces  slacked  lime,  and  4  ounces  boiled  lin- 
seed oil.     Mix,  and  acid  4  ounces  each  whites 
and  yolks  of  eggs,  and  liquefy  the  mixture  by 
heat.    This  curious  mixture  is  said  to  produce 
a  pliable  and  transparent  varnish. 

2899.  Brunswick  Black.  Foreign 
asphaltum,  45  pounds ;  drying  oiL  6  gallons ; 
and  litharge,  G  pounds.  Boil  for  2  hours,  then 
add  dark  gum-amber  (fused),  8  pounds;  hot 
linseed  oil,  2  gallons.  Boil  for  2  hours  longer, 
or  until  a  little  of  the  mass,  when  cooled, 
may  be  rolled  into  pills.  Then  withdraw  the 
heat,  and  afterwards  thin  down  with  25  gal- 
lons oil  of  turpentine.  Used  for  iron-work, 
&G. 

2900.  Black  Varnish  for  Iron- Work. 
Asphaltum,  48  pounds,  fuse;  add  boiled  oil, 
10  gallons ;  red  lead  and  litharge,  of  each  7 
pounds ;  dried  and  powdered  white  copperas, 

3  pounds.     Boil  for  2  hours ;  then  add  dark 
gum  amber  (fused),  8  pounds;    hot  linseed 
oil,  2  gallons ;  boil  for  two  hours,  proceeding 
as  in  the  last  receipt,  thinning  down  with  oil 
of  turpentine,  30  gallons.     Used  for  the'samo 
purposes  as  Brunswick  black. 

2901.  Colored  Oil  Varnishes.     Oil  var- 
nishes are  colored  by  grinding  with  them  the 
most  transparent  colors,  as  distilled  verdigris 
for  green,  <fcc.    Spirit  varnishes  are  also  colored 
with  dragon's  blood,  gamboge,  &c.     (See  No. 
2867.) 

2902.  Varnish  for  Grates.  To  2 
pounds  common  asphaltum,  fused  in  an  iron 
pot,  add  1  pint  hot  boiled  linseed  oil;  mix  well 
and  boil  for  some  time.  "When  partially  cooled 
add  2  quarts  oil  of  turpentine.  If  too  thick, 
add  turpentine.  Apply  with  an  ordinary  paint 
brush. 


Opirit  Varnislies.    The  spirit 

fr^Jl  employed  for  making  spirit  varnishes 
should  not  be  less  than  95  per  cent.  In  pre- 
paring and  using  them,  they  should  be  kept 
at  a  distance  from  a  candle  or  other  flame. 
Respecting  the  gums  (resins)  employed,  it 
may  be  useful  to  mention  that  shellac  is  ren- 
dered more  soluble  by  being  powdered  and 
exposed  for  a  long  time  to  the  air  (sec  No. 
290G);  sandarach  gives  hardness  to  varnishes; 
mastich  gives  a  gloss  to  a  solution  of  other 
gums;  benzoin  still  more,  but  its  color  is 
objectionable;  anime  readily  dissolves,  tut 
renders  the  varnish  long  in  drying ;  copal  and 
amber  are  scarcely  soluble  iu  spirit,  but  are 
rendered  partially'so  by  other  gums,  and  also 
by  being  previously  fused  by  heat.  (Sec  No. 
28G7.)  Shellac  gives  a  durable  varnish,  objec- 
tionable only  en  account  cf  its  color,  which 


SPIRIT    VARNISHES. 


267 


may  be  rendered  paler  by  charcoal.  (Beasley.\ 
(See  No.  1723,  ^-c.)  In  the  preparation  o 
spirit  varnishes,  care  should  be  taken  to  pre- 
vent the  evaporation  of  the  alcohol  as  much 
as  possible,  and  also  to  preserve  the  portion 
that  evaporates.  On  the  small  scale,  spirit 
varnishes  are  best  made  by  maceration  in 
close  bottles.  In  order  to  prevent  the  agglu- 
tination of  the  resin,  it  is  often  advantageously 
mixed  with  clear  silicious  sand,  or  pouudec 
glass,  by  which  the  surface  is  much  increased, 
and  the  solvent  power  of  the  menstruum  pro- 
moted. The  tendency  of  a  spirit  varnish  to 
chill  or  give  a  rough  surface  may  be  destroyed 
by  adding  to  the  varnish  a  little  gum  sanda- 
rach,  oil  of  lavender  or  concentrated  ammonia. 

2904.  To  Dissolve  Copal  in  Spirit. 
Take  the  copal  and  expose  it  in  a  vessel 
formed  like  a  cullender  to  the  front  of  a  fire, 
and  receive  the  drops   of  melted   gum  in  a 
basin  of  cold  water ;  then  dry  them  well  in  a 
temperature  of  about  95°  Pahr.     By  treating 
copal  in  this  way  it  acquires  the  property  ol 
dissolving  in  alcohol. 

2905.  Copal  Varnish.     Take  1  ounce 
copal  and  -J  an  ounce  shellac ;  powder  them 
well,  and  put  them  into  a  bottle  or  jar  con- 
taining 1  quart  spirits  of  wine.     Place   the 
mixture  in  a  warm  place,  and  shake  it  occa- 
sionally, until  the  gums  are  completely  dis- 
solved ;  and,  when  strained,  the  varnish  will 
be  iit  for  use.     The  above  is  the  simplest,  and 
therefore  the  most  usual  method  of  making 
common  copal  varnish ;  but  it  may  be  pre- 
pared in  a  variety  of  ways,  where  particular 
uses  may  be  required. 

2906.  To  Dissolve  Gum  Shellac. 
Everybody  who  has  ever  to  deal  with  bleached 
gum  shellac  knows  the  difficulties  and  the 
loss  of  time  attending  its  solution.  To  obviate 
this,  the  gum  is  broken  into  small  pieces  and 
macerated  in  a  stoppered  bottle  with  ether ; 
after  swelling  up  sufficiently,  the  excess  of 
ether  is  poured  off,  when  it  will  dissolve  quite 
readily  in  alcohol.  (See  No.  2903.) 

2907.  Copal  Varnish.     Take  3  ounces 
copal,  melt  by  a  gentle  heat,  and  drop  it  into 
water  (see  No.  2904) ;  then  dry  it  and  powder 
it  fine.     Place  a  bottle  containing  1  pint  oil 
of  turpentine  in  a  water-bath,  and  add  the 
powdered  copal  to  the  turpentine  in  small  por- 
tions at  a  time ;   in  a  few  days  decant  the 
clear.     Dries   slowly,   but  is  very  pale  and 
durable,   and  is  used   for  pictures,    <fcc.     In 
making  this  varnish,  it  frequently  happens 
that  the  gum  will  not  melt  as  readily  as  it 
ought,   which,  in   general,  is   owing  to   the 
turpentine  not   being    sufficiently    rectified; 
but,  when  that  is  good,  it  will  always  succeed. 
It  is  best  also  to  let  the  turpentine  be  exposed 
for  some  time  in  the  sun,  in  a  corked  bottle, 
that  the  watery  particles  may  be  gradually 
dissipated.     The  bottle  should  not  be  stopped 
quite  tight. 

2908.  Copal    Varnish,   according    to 
Professor  Boettger  should  be  made  by  first  dis- 
solving 1  part  by  weight  of  camphor,  in  12 
parts  ether;  when  the  camphor  is  dissolved, 
4  parts  best  copal  resin,  previously  reduced 
to  an  impalpable  powder,  are  added  to  the 
ethereal  camphor  solution  placed  in  a  well- 
stoppered  bottle.    As  soon  as  the  copal  ap- 
pears to  be  partly  dissolved,  and  has  become 
swollen,  4  parts  strong  alcohol,  or  methylated 


spirits,  and  J  part  oil  of  turpentine  are  added, 
and,  after  shaking  the  mixture  and  letting  it 
stand  for  a  few  hours  longer,  a  thoroughly 
good  copal  varnish  is  obtained. 

2909.  Common  Turpentine  Varnish. 
This  is  merely  clear  pale  resin  dissolved  in 
oil  of  turpentine;  usually  5  pounds  resin  to  7 
pounds  of  turpentine. 

2910.  Crystal  Varnish.     Picked  mas- 
tich,  4  ounces;  rectified  spirit,  1  pint;  animal 
charcoal,  1  ounce.     Digest  and  filter. 

2911.  Mastich  Picture  Varnish.    Very 
pale    and  picked   gum    mastich,   5  pounds; 
glass  pounded  as  small  as  barley,  and  well 
washed  and  dried,  2£  pounds;  rectified  tur- 
pentine, 2  gallons ;  put  them  into  a  clean  4 
gallon  stone  or  tin  bottle,  bung  down  securely, 
and  keep  rolling  it  backwards  and  forwards 
pretty  smartly  on  a  counter  or  any  other  solid 
place,  for  at  least  4  hours ;  when,  if  the  gum 
is  all  dissolved,  the  varnish  may  be  decanted, 
strained  through  muslin  into  another  bottle, 
and   allowed  to   settle.      It  should   be   kept 
for  6  or  9  months  before  use,  as  it  thereby 
gets  both  tougher  and  clearer.     Very  fine. 

2912.  Mastich  Varnish.     Mastich,  8 
pounds;  turpentine,  4  gallons;  dissolve  by  a 
gentle  heat,' and  add  pale  turpentine  varnisk,  J 
gallon. 

2913.  Best  Mastich  Varnish.     Gum 
mastich,  6  ounces ;  oil  of  turpentine  1  quart ; 
dissolve.     Mastich  varnish  is  used  for  pictures, 
&c.;  when  good,  it  is  tough,  hard,  brilliant, 
and  colorless. 

2914.  Varnish  for  Paintings.    Take 
mastich,  6  ounces ;  pure  turpentine,  $  ounce ; 
camphor,  2  drachms ;  spirits  of  turpentine,  19 
ounces ;  add  first  the  camphor  to  the  turpen- 
tine ;  the  mixture  is  made  in  a  water-bath ; 
when  the  solution  is  effected,  add  the  mastich 
and  the  spirits  of  turpentine  near  the  end  of 
the  operation ;  filter  through  a  cotton  cloth. 

2915.  Tingry's    Essence    Varnish. 
Mastich  in  powder,  12  ounces;  pure  turpen- 
tine, 1  k  ounces ;  camphor,  i  ounce ;  powdered 
glass,  5  ounces ;  rectified  oil  of  turpentine,  1 
quart. 

2916.  White  Toy  Varnish.      Tender 
opal,  7-J-  ounces ;  camphor,  1  ounce ;  alcohol 

of  95  per  cent.,  1  quart ;  dissolve,  then  add 
mastich,  2  ounces;  Venice  turpentine,  1 
ounce;  dissolve  and  strain.  Very  white, 
drying,  and  capable  of  being  polished  when 
hard.  Used  for  toys. 

2917.  White  Varnish.     Sandarach,   8 
ounces;  mastich,  2  ounces;  Canada  balsam,  4 
ounces;    alcohol,   1  quart.     Used  on  paper, 
wood,  or  linen. 

2918.  Best   White    Hard   Varnish. 
Eectified  spirits  of  wine,  1  quart ;  gum  sanda- 
rach, 10  ounces ;  gum  mastich,  2  ounces ;  gum 
anime,  £  ounce';  dissolve  these  in  a  clean  can, 
or  bottle,  in  a  warm  place,  frequently  shaking 

t.  "When  the  gum  is  dissolved,  strain  it 
through  a  lawn  sieve,  and  it  is  fit  for  use. 

2919.  Mordant,  or  Transfer  Varnish. 
Mastich  in  tears,  6£  ounces ;  resin,  12£  ounces; 
jale  Venice  turpentine  (genuine)  and  sand- 
arach,  of  each  25  ounces;  alcohol,  5  pints; 
lissolve  as  before.     Used  for  fixing  engrav- 
ngs  or  lithographs  on  wood,  and  for  gilding, 

silvering,  <fcc.     (Sec  No.  2928.) 

2920.  Map    Varnish   is    prepared  by 
)ulverizing  1  ounce  sandarach,  £  ounce  mas- 


268 


SPIRIT    VARNISHES. 


tich,  k  ounce  elemi,  dissolving  them  in  £  ounce 
of  Yenice  turpentine,  and  adding  to  it,  a  solu- 
tion of  4  ounces  shellac,  and  3  ounces  oil  of 
lavender,  in  12  ounces  alcohol.  (See  No. 
2935.) 

2921.  Canada  Varnish.     Clear  balsam 
of  Canada,  4   ounces;  camphene,  8  ounces; 
warm  gently,  and  shake  together  till  dissolved. 
For  maps,  drawings,  &c.,  they  are  first  sized 
over  with  a  solution  of  isinglass,  taking  care 
that  every  part  is  covered;    when  dry,  the 
varnish  is  brushed  over  it. 

2922.  Collodion  Varnish.   The  addition 
of  l»part  castor  oil  to  32  parts  collodion,  makes 
a  good  varnish;  it  dries  rapidly  and  does  not 
penetrate  the  paper.    This  varnish  will  do 
very  well  for  coating  maps,  lists,  labels,  etc., 
and  it  will  keep  for  years.     If,  after  a  repeat- 
ed coating,  white  spots  should  appear,  moist- 
en them  with  ether,  and  they  will  vanish  in- 
etantly. 

2923.  Varnish  to  Imitate  the  Chinese. 
Put  4  ounces  powdered  gum-lac,  with  a  piece 
of  camphor  about  the  size  of  a  hazelnut,  into 
a  strong  bottle,  with  1  pound  good  spirits  of 
wine.     Shake  the  bottle  from  time  to  time, 
and  set  it  over  some  hot  embers  to  mix  for  24 
hours,  if  it  be  in  winter ;  in  summer  time  it 
may  be  exposed  to  the  sun.     Pass  the  whole 
through  a  fine  cloth,  and  throw  away  what 
remains  upon  it.    Let  it  settle  for  24  hours ; 
separate  gently  the  clear  part  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  bottle,  and  put  into  another  phial ; 
the  remains  will  serve  for  the  first  layers  or 
coatings. 

2924.  Varnish   for   Drawings   and 
Lithographs.     Take   of  dextrine,  2  parts; 
alcohol,  i  part;  water,  2  parts.    These  should 
be  prepared  previously  with  2  or  3  coats  of 
thin  starch  or  rice  boiled  and  strained  through 
a  cloth.     (See  No.  2927.) 

2925.  To  Purify   Dextrine.      Eager 
gives  a  method  for  rendering  dextrine  pure,  or 
at  least  freer  from  foreign  odor  and  taste. 
For  this  purpose  he  dissolves  10  parts  of  good 
dextrine,  with  stirring,  in  18  of  cold  distilled 
water,  allows  the  mixture  to  stand  for  some 
days,  decants  and  strains  it  from  the  sediment. 
The  clear  liquid  is  then  to  be  mixed  with 
once  and  a  half  to  twice  its  volume  of  alcohol 
fortius  (see  No.  1439) ;  after  some  hours  the 
liquor  is  separated  from  the  pasty  mass,  which 
is  then  once  more  dissolved  in  a  small  quanti- 
ty of  water,  and  spread  on  glass  or  porcelain 
to  dry  at  a  temperature  not  exceeding  140° 
Fahr. 

2926.  Le  Blond's  Varnish.     Keep    4 
pounds  balsam  of  copaiba  warm  in  a  sand  or 
water  bath,  and  add  16  ounces  copal  (previ- 
ously fused  and  coarsely  powdered),  by  single 
ounces,  daily,  and  stir  it  frequently.     "When 
dissolved  add  a  little  Ohio  turpentine. 

2927.  De  Sylvestre's  Dextrine  Var- 
nish.     Dextrine,   2   parts ;  water,   6  parts : 
rectified  spirit,  1  part.     (Sec  No.  2924.) 

2928.  Transfer  Varnish.     For  trans- 
ferring and  fixing  engravings  or  lithographs 
on  wood,  and  for  gilding,  silvering,  etc.     Dis- 
solve 4  ounces  mastich  (in  tears),  and  4  oun- 
ces sandarach,  in  1*  pints  rectified  spirit;  add 
k  pint  pure  Canada  balsam.     (See  No.  2919.) 

2929.  To  Dissolve  Amber.     There  is 
no  difficulty  in  dissolving  amber  in  chloroform, 
but  people  are  apt  to  think  they  fail,  from  the 


circumstance  that  it  is  only  partially  soluble. 
Take  some  broken  amber,  reduce  to  a  coarse 
powder,  and  place  in  a  bottle  with  rather  more 
than  enough  chloroform  to  cover  them  well ; 
shake  often,  and  in  a  few  days,  by  pouring  a 
drop  or  two  of  the  clear  liquid  on  a  glass  plate, 
a  varnish  of  good  body,  which  gives  a  strong 
glaze,  may  be  obtained.  Or  an  amber  varnish 
may  bo  made  as  follows :  Take  of  amber,  3 
ounces;  benzole,  50  ounces;  heat  the  amber 
in  a  closed  vessel  to  a  temperature  of  about 
570°  Fahr.  "When  it  begins  to  soften  and 
swell,  emitting  white  fumes,  then  dissolve  in 
the  benzole. 

2930.  Amber   Varnish   for   Photo- 
graphs.    Dissolve  3  to  4  grains  amber  in  1 
ounce  chloroform.     (See  No.  2929.) 

2931.  Brilliant  Amber  Spirit   Var- 
nish.    Fused   amber,   4   ounces ;    sandarach 
and  mastich,  of  each  4  ounces ;  highly  rectified 
spirit,  1  quart.     Expose  to  the  heat  of  a  sand- 
bath,  with  occasional  agitation,  till  dissolved. 
(The  amber  is  fused  in  a  close  copper  vessel, 
having    a    funnel-shaped    projection,    which 
passes  through  the  bottom  of  the  furnace  by 
which  the  vessel  is  heated.) 

2932.  Hare's  Colorless  Varnish  for 
Photographs.     Dissolve  shellac  by  heat  in 
8  parts  of  water  and  1  of  pearlash.     Precipi- 
tate by  chlorine,   and    dissolve    in  rectified 
spirit.     ( See  JVwf.  2933  to  2935.) 

2933.  Bookbinders'    and    Colorless 
Varnish.     Mr.  A.  Schmidt  gives  the  follow- 
ing directions  for  making  these  and  several 
other    beautiful    varnishes:    For    1     pound 
good  shellac  take  4  ounces  crystallized  car- 
bonate of  soda,  and  1  h  gallons  water ;  put  the 
whole  in  a  clean  iron  or  copper  vessel  of  dou- 
ble the  capacity,  and,  under  constant  stirring, 
bring  it  to  boiling  over  a  slow  fire.     The  shel- 
lac will  dissolve,  and,  if  it  is  intended  to  make 
colorless  French  varnish  (see  No.  2935),  the 
solution  has  to  be  run  through  a  woolen  cloth. 
For  brown  bookbinders'  varnish,  or  a  colorless 
varnish  for  maps,  photographs,  etc.,  the  solu- 
tion has  to  boil  for  about  an  hour  longer,  but 
only  simmering,  and  then  to  cool  very  slowly 
without  stirring;    better    let  it  stand  over 
night,  and  let  the  firo  go  out  under  it.    In  the 
morning  a  wax-like  substance  will  be  found 
on  the  surface  of  the  solution,  and  the  other 
impurities  of  the  shellac  as  a  deposit  on  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel.    The  solution  is  like- 
wise to  be  run  through  a  woolen  cloth  and 
then  to  be  filtered.  (See  No.  2934.)  To  make  a 
transparent  brown  varnish — bookbinders'  var- 
nish— this  filtered  solution  has  to  be  precipita- 
ted with  diluted  sulphuric  acid  (1  part  acid  to 
20  parts  water),  the  precipitate  collected  on  a 
coarse  muslin  cloth,  and  washed  out  with  cold 
clear  water  till  it  runs  through  without  taste. 
(See  No.  24.)  Then  fill  a  stone  or  wooden  ves- 
sel with  boiling  water,  and  throw  the  precipi- 
tate in  it;  it  will  directly  soften  and  stick  to- 
gether; this  half  mass  has  to  bo  kneaded  in  the 
hands,  doubled  tip,  melted,  and  drawn  out  till 
it  assumes  a  fine  silky  lustre,  then  drawn  out 
to  the  desired  thickness  in  sticks,  like  candy, 
and  it  is  then  ready  for  solution.     To  make 
the  BOOKBINDERS'  VARNISH,  dissolve  1  part 
of  the  precipitate  in  2i  parts  95  per  cent,  al- 
cohol.    To  make  the  COLORLESS  VARNISH, 
dissolve  1  part  of  the  precipitate  in  the  same 
quantity  of  alcohol.     Add  1£  drachms  oil  of 


SPIRIT    VARNISHES. 


lavender  to  each  pint.    The  colorless  varnish 
will  look  like  whey,  but  more  transparent. 

2934.  Filter  for  Shellac.     To  make  a 
filter  for  shellac,  take  a  small  wooden  keg,  re- 
move the  top  and  bottom,  and  fasten  to  one 
side  a  piece  of  muslin ;  on  the  muslin  bring 
about  4  inches  fine,  washed  sand,  and  on  top 
of  the  sand  a  layer  of  clean  straw;    then 
pour  the  solution  into  the    filter  and  let  it 
run  through.     Should   the  first  portion  run 
through  be  not  perfectly  clear,  like  red  French 
wine,  it  has  to  be  brought  back  to  the  filter. 
"When  nothing  more  will  rim  through,  pour 
some  clean  water  on  the  filter  to  wash  the  re- 
maining solution  out. 

2935.  French  Transparent  Colorless 
Varnish.     To  make  white  French  trauspa- 
rent  colorless  varnish  for  maps,  the  solution 
(sec  No.  2933)    has  to  be   bleached.      The 
bleaching  fluid  is  made  as  follows,  and  the 
proportions  are  for  1  pound  of  shellac:  Take  1 
pound  good  English  chloride  of  lime,  dissolve 
it  in  14  pounds  cold  water,  triturating  the 
lumps  well ;  let  it  subside,  and  decant  the  clear 
fluid ;  add  7  pounds  of  water  to  the  residue, 
and,  when  subsided,  add  the  clear  liquor  to 
the  other ;  precipitate  this  liquor  with  a  solu- 
tion of  carbonate  of  soda,  let  the  carbonate  of 
lime  settle,  and  decant  the  clear  chloride  of 
soda;  wash  the  sediment  out  with  water,  and 
add  the  clear  liquid  to  the  former,  put  it  in  a 
high  stone  jar,  and  give  it  a  rotary  motion 
with  a  wooden  stick,  pouring  in  at  the  same 
time  very  diluted  sulphuric  acid,  till  it  as- 
sumes a  greenish  color  and  a  smell  of  chlorine 
is  perceptible.    Then  add  some  of  this  liquid 
to  the  solution  to  be  bleached,  under  constant 
stirring,   till  all   the  color  is  gone.     French 
polish  will  look  like  milk.    Then  precipitate 
with  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  exactly  as  the  solu- 
tion for  bookbinders'  varnish,  and  treat    the 
precipitate  in  the  same  manner,  in  hot  water. 
(See  No.  2933.)    All  iron  must  be  carefully 
avoided  as  soon  as  tho  chlorine  liquor  is  add- 
ed.    Dissolve  1  pint  of  tho  above  m  3  pints  of 
95  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  do  not  add  any  oil 
of  lavender,  as  in  No.  2933.     For  photographs 
this  solution  is  too  strong ;  1  part  of  bleached 
shellac  to  G  parts  alcohol  will  answer.    For 
maps  the  solution  should  not  be  applied  im- 
mediately to  the  paper,  but  the  latter  should 
first  receive  a  coat  of  boiled  and  strained 
starch. 

2936.  Wax   Varnish,    or    Milk    of 
Wax.      Pure  white    wax,   1    pound ;    melt 
with  as  gentle  a  heat  as  possible,  and  warm 
spirit  of  wine  (90  per  cent.),  1  pint;  mix  per- 
fectly, and  pour  the  liquid  out  upon  a  cold 
porphyry  slab ;  nest  grind  it  with  a  muller  to 
a  perfectly  smooth  paste,  with  the  addition 
of  more  spirit  as  required;  put  tho  paste  into 
a  marble  mortar,  make  an  emulsion  with  3£ 
pints  gradually   added,   and  strain  through 
umsliu.      Used  as  a  varnish  for  paintings; 
when  dry,  a  hot  iron  is  passed  over  it,  or  heat 
is  otherwise  evenly  applied,  so  as  to  fuse  it, 
and  render  it  transparent:  when  quite  cold  it 
is  polished  with  a  clean  linen  cloth.   The  most 
protective  of  all  varnishes.     Many  ancient 

Saintings  owe  their  freshness  at  tho  present 
av  to  this  varnish. 

2937.  Wax  Varnish  for  Furniture. 
Wax,  3  ounces;  oil  of  turpentine,  1  quart; 
dissolve  by  a  gentle  heat.    Used  for  furniture. 


2938.  Varnish  for  Paper  Hangings, 
Maps,  Prints,  &c.     Take  of  genuine  pale 
Canada-  balsam  and  rectified  oil  of  turpentine, 
equal  parts,  and  mix  thoroughly.     Give  tho 
articles  2  coats  of  size  before  varnishing. 

2939.  Varnish  for  Card- Work,  Bas- 
kets,  &c.     Take  black,  red,  or  any  other 
colored    sealing-wax,    according    to    fancy ;  . 
break  it  into  small  pieces,  and  add  enough 
rectified  or  methylated  spirit  to  cover  it ;  let 
the  vessel  stand  near  the  fire  for  2  days  until 
it  is  quite  dissolved.    Give  the  article  2  coats 
of  size  before  varnishing.    The  size  is  made 
by  dissolving  parchment  cuttings  in  boiling 
water.    This  i.$  a  most  useful  varnish  for  fret- 
work, card- work,  baskets,  <fec. 

2940.  Water  Lac  Varnish.  Palo 
shellac,  5  ounces;  borax,  1  ounce;  water,! 
pint;  digest  at  nearly  the  boiling  point,  until 
dissolved ;  then  strain.  Equal  to  the  more 
costly  spirit  varnish  for  many  purposes ;  it  is 
an  excellent  vehicle  for  water  colors,  inks, 
&c. ;  when  dry  it  is  waterproof. 

2941.  Transparent  Green  Varnish. 
A  beautifully  transparent  green  varnish  is 
made  by  taking  a  small  quantity  of  "Chinese 
blue,"  with  about  twice  the  amount  of  finely 
powdered  chromato  of  potash,  and  stirring 
these  in  copal  varnish  thinned  with  turpen- 
tine. A  thorough  grinding  of  this  mixture 
must  bo  made  for  tho  purpose  of  intimately 
incorporating  tho  ingredients,  as  otherwise  it 
will  not  be  transparent.  A  preponderance  of 
chromate  of  potash  gives  a  yellowish  shado 
to  the  green,  and  a  deficiency  increases  tho 
amount  of  blue.  This  varnish,  thus  colored, 
produces  a  very  striking  effect  in  japanned 
goods,  paper-hangings,  etc.,  and  can  be  made 
very  cheaply. 

2942.  Aniline  Transparent  Var- 
nishes. The  aniline  colors  are  particularly 
well  adapted  for  tho  manufacture  of  transpa- 
rent lacs,  which  possess  great  intensity  even 
in  very  thin  films,  and  are  hence  very  suita- 
ble for  coloring  glass  or  mica.  The  process 
recommended  by  F.  Springmuhl  is  to  pro 
pare  separately  an  alcoholic  solution  of 
bleached  shellac  or  saudarach,  and  a  concen- 
trated alcoholic  solution  of  the  coloring  mat- 
ter, which  last  is  added  to  the  lac  before  using 
it;  the  glass  or  mica  to  bo  coated  being  slight 
ly  warmed.  Colored  films  of  great  beauty 
may  also  bcobtained,  according  to  Springmuhl, 
from  colored  solutions  of  gun  cotton  in  other, 
the  coloring  matter  being  here  dissolved  m 
alcohol  and  ether.  The  collodion  film  has  its 
elasticity  greatly  increased  by  the  addition  of 
some  turpentine  oil ;  and  when  applied  cold, 
can  be  removed  entire.  Tho  colored  films 
may  now  bo  cut  into  any  pattern,  and  again 
attached  to  transparent  objects. 

2943.  Aniline  Black  Varnish.  An 
aniline  black  varnish,  of  •recent  Parisian 
production,  is  tho  following :  Dissolve  CJ 
drachms  avoirdupois  of  aniline  blue,  If 
drachms  of  fuchsine,  and  4.}  drachms  t:f 
naphthaline  yellow,  m  1  quart  alcohol.  Tho 
whole  is  dissolved  by  agitation  in  less  than  12 
hours.  One  application  renders  au  object 
ebony  black ;  the  varnish  can  bo  filtered,  and 
will  never  deposit  afterwards. 

2944.  Transparent  Varnish  for 
Prints  and  Pictures.  Dilute  i  pound 
Venice  turpentine  with  a  gill,  or  thereabouts, 


27O 


SPIRIT    VARNISHES. 


of  spirits  of  wine.  If  too  thick,  a  little  more 
of  the  latter ;  if  not  enough,  a  little  more  of 
the  former ;  so  that  it  is  brought  to  the  con- 
sistence of  milk.  Lay  1  coat  of  this  on  the 
right  side  of  the  print,  and,  when  dry,  it  will 
shine  like  glass.  If  it  is  not  satisfactory,  lay 
on  another  coat. 

2945.  To  Make  the  Design  of  a 
Print  Appear  in  Gold.  After  having 
laid  on  both  sides  of  the  print  one  coat  of  the 
varnish  described  in  JSTo.  2944,  in  order  to 
make  it  transparent,,  let  it  dry  a  little  while ; 
then,  before  it  is  quite  dry,  lay  some  gold  in 
leaves  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  print,  pressing 
it  gently  on  with  a  cotton  pad.  By  these 
means,  all  parts  where  these  leaves  have  been 
laid  will  appear  like  massive  gold  on  the 
right  side.  When  this  is  all  thoroughly  dry, 
lay  on  the  right  side  of  it  one  coat  of  the 
varnish  described  above,  and  it  will  then  be 
as  good  as  any  crown  glass.  A  pasteboard 
may  be  put  behind  the  print,  to  support  it 
better  in  its  frame. 

2946.  Clear  Gutta-Percha  Solution. 
Cut  gutta-percha  into  thin  strips  and  put  it  in 
a  glass  bottle,  and  add  as  much  chloroform  as 
makes  a  thick  paste.  This  paste  is  then 
placed  in  very  hot  water,  and  kneaded  with 
the  fingers.  After  considerable  manipulation 
the  gutta-percha  loses  much  of  its  color,  and 
if  this  process  is  repeated,  becomes  very  near- 
ly colorless,  having  only  a  pale  straw  tint. 
A  chloroform  solution  may  then  be  made  of 
any  strength,  which  is  useful  for  many  pur- 
poses— when  thin,  as  a  substitute  for  court 
plaster,  and  when  thick,  as  a  stopping  for 
decayed  teeth. 

2947.  Solvents   for    India-B-ubber 
and    Gutta-Percha   to   Make   Flexible 
Varnish.     Rubber  does  not  dissolve  easily 
enough  to  give  a  varnish  by  simply  placing 
it  in  a  bottle  with  the  solvent.     Sulphuric 
ether  is  one  of  its  regular  solvents,  but  then 
it  must  be  pure  rectified  ether,  and  not  the 
mixture  of  ether  and  alcohol  which  is  sold  for 
ether  in  many  drug  stores.     It  also  must  be 
pure  rubber,  and  not  the  sulphur-vulcanized 
article.    The  pure  rubber  must  be  cut  into 
small  pieces,  soaked  in  the  ether  in  a  warm 
place  for  about  24  hours  until  they  are  swollen 
up,  and  then  it  must  be  kneaded  in  a  mortar. 
In  such  a  way  rubber  varnishes  may  be  made 
even  with  common  benzine.     "When  treated 
with  hot  benzole  (from  coal  tar,  not  benzine 
from  petroleum),  it   swells  to  30  times    its 
former  bulk ;   and  if  then  triturated  with  a 
pestle,  and  pressed  through  a  sieve,  it  affords 
a  homogeneous  varnish,  which  being  applied 
by  a  flat  edge  of  metal  or  wood  to  cloth,  pre- 
pares it  for  forming  waterproof  cloth.    Chloro- 
form and  the  bisulphuret  of  carbon  dissolve 
India-rubber  and   gutta-percha  in  the  cold. 
Turpentine  disintegrates  and  dissolves  India- 
rubber  and    gutta-percha  when    hot.      The 
fixed  oils  also  readily  dissolve  them  with  the 
aid  of  heat.      When    India-rubber   remains 
sticky  after  working  it,  it  is  a  proof  that  the 
temperature  was  too  high,  or  that  too  much 
turpentine  was  used  in  the  solutions  or  var- 
nishes; turpentine  rubber  varnish  has  natu- 
rally a  tendency  to  dry  sticky ;  benzole  or  the 
fixed  oils  are  better.     (See  No.  2248.) 

2948.  Flexible  Varnish  for  Balloons, 
etc.       Digest  cold,  1-J-  ounces  India-rubber, 


cut  small,  in  1  pint  of  either  chloroform,  sul- 
phuric ether  (washed),  or  bisulphuret  of  car- 
bon. This  dries  as  soon  as  laid  on. 

2949.  India-Rubber  Varnish.    Digest 
in  a  closed  vessel,  at  a  gentle  heat,  1  ounce 
India-rubber  shavings  in  1  pint  of  rectified 
mineral  naphtha,  or  benzole;  then  strain  it. 
This  dries  very  badly,  and  never  gets  perfect- 
ly hard. 

2950.  Tough  India-Rubber  Varnish. 
Dissolve  by  heat  1  ounce  India-rubber  in  1 
quart  of  drying  oil.     This  dries  very  tough  in 
about  48  hours. 

2951.  Flexible  Varnish.    Boil  3  ounces 
dried  white  copperas,  3  ounces  sugar  of  lead, 
and  8  ounces  litharge,  in  1  gallon  linseed  oil ; 
stir  constantly  until  it  strings  well,  then  cool 
slowly  and  decant  the  clear  portion.     If  too 
thick,  thin  with  quick-drying  linseed  oil. 

2952.  Colpin's  India-Bubber  Varnish. 
India-rubber  in  small    pieces,   washed    and 
dried,  are  fused  for  3  hours  in  a  close  vessel, 
on  a  gradually  heated  sand-bath.     On  remov- 
ing from  the  sand-bath,  open  the  vessel  and 
stir  for  10  minutes,  then  close  again,  and  re- 
peat the  fusion  on  the  following  day,  until 
small  globules  appear  on  the  surface."    Then 
strain  through  a  wire  sieve. 

2953.  Metallic  Varnish,  or  Var- 
nisher's  Amalgam.  Melt  4  ounces  grain  tin 
(see  Index)  with  1  ounce  bismuth ;  add  1 
ounce  quicksilver,  and  stir  till  cold;  then  grind 
it  very  fine  with  white  of  egg  or  varnish,  and 
apply  this  metallic  varnish  to  the  figure  to  be 
coated. 

2954.  Varnish  for  Gun  Barrels.     The 
varnish  used  for  gun  barrels,  after  they  are 
bronzed,  is  made  by  dissolving  1   ounce  of 
shellac  and  1  or  2  drachms  of  dragon's  blood 
in  a  quart  of  alcohol,  and  filtering  the  solu- 
tion through   blotting  paper  into   a   bottle, 
which   must  be  kept  closely  corked.     This 
varnish,  being  laid  on  the  barrel,  and  become 
perfectly  dry,  must  be  rubbed  with   a  bur- 
nisher to  render  it  smooth  and  glossy. 

2955.  Submarine  Varnish.     Resin,  2 
parts;  galipot,  2  parts  ;  essence  of  turpentine, 
40  parts.    Melt  the  above,  and  add,  in  the 
form  of  very  fine  powder,  and  well  mixed, 
sulphide  of  copper,  18  parts ;  regulus  of  anti- 
mony, 2  parts.     This  varnish  is  said  to  pro- 
tect wood  from  worms,  and  to  prevent  the  ad- 
herence of  barnacles  and  parasites  to  the  bot- 
tom of  ships.     It  also  preserves  iron  from  ox- 
idation. 

2956.  Varnish  for  Iron.   The  following 
is  a  method  given  by  M.  "Weiszkopf,  of  pro- 
ducing upon  iron  a  durable  black  shining  var- 
nish:  Take  oil  of  turpentine,  add  to  it,  drop 
by  drop,  and  while  stirring,  strong  sulphuric 
acid,  until  a  syrupy  precipitate  is  quite  formed, 
and  no  more  of  it  is  produced  on  further  ad- 
dition of  a  drop  of  acid.     The  liquid  is  now 
repeatedly  washed  away  with  water,  every 
time  renewed  after  a  good  stirring,  until  the 
water  does  not  exhibit  any  more  acid  reaction 
on  being  tested  with  blue  litmus  paper.     The 
precipitate  is  next  brought  upon  a  cloth  filter, 
and,  after  all  the  water  has  run  off,  the  syrupy 
mass  is  fit  for  use.     This  thickish  deposit  is 
painted  over  the  iron  with  a  brush ;  if  it  hap- 
pens to  be  too  stiff,  it  is  previously  diluted 
with  some  oil  of  turpentine.      Immediately 
after  the  iron  has  been  so  painted,  the  paint 


SPIRIT    VARNISHES. 


271 


is  burnt  in  by  a  gentle  heat,  and,  after  cool- 
ing, the  black  surface  is  rubbed  over  with  a 
piece  of  woolen  stuff  dipped  in,  and  moistened 
with  linseed  oil.  According  to  "Weiszkopf, 
this  varnish  is  not  a  simple  covering  of  the 
surface,  but  it  is  chemically  combined  with 
the  metal,  and  does  not,  therefore,  wear  or 
peel  off  the  iron,  as  is  the  case  with  other 
paints  and  varnishes. 

2957.  Brilliant  French   Varnish  for 
Boots  and  Shoes.     Take  £  of  a  pint  spirits 
of  wine ;  5  pints  white  wine ;  ^  pound  pow- 
dered gum  Senegal ;  6  ounces  loaf  sugar ;  2 
ounces  powdered  galls;  4  ounces  green  cop- 
peras.    Dissolve  the  sugar  and  gum  in  the 
wine.    When  dissolved,  strain;   then  put  it 
on  a  slow  fire,  being  careful  not  to  let  it  boil. 
In  this  state  put  in  the  galls,  copperas,  and 
the  alcohol,  stirring  it  well  for  five  minutes. 
Then  remove  from  the  fire,  and,  when  nearly 
cool,  strain  through  flannel,   and  bottle  for 
use.    It  is  applied  with  a  pencil  brush.    If 
not  sufficiently  black,  a  little  sulphate  of  iron, 
and  half  a  pint  of  a  strong  decoction  of  log- 
wood, may  be  added,  with  ^   ounce  pearl- 
ash. 

2958.  Varnish    for    Fastening1   the 
Leather  on  Top  Rollers  in  Factories. 
Dissolve   2£  ounces  of  gum-arabic  in   water 
and  a  like  amount  of  isinglass  dissolved  in 
brandy,  and  it  is  fit  for  use. 

2959.  Varnish   for    Engraving    on 
Glass.     "Wax,  1  ounce;  mastich,  i  ounce;  as- 
phaltum,  J  ounce;  turpentine,  i  drachm. 

2960.  Etchinff   Varnishes.      White 
wax,  2  ounces;   aspnaltum,  2 ounces.     Melt 
the  wax  in  a  clean  pipkin,  add  the  asphaltum 
in  powder,  and  boil  to  a  proper  consistence. 
Pour  it  into  warm  water,  and  form  it  into 
balls,  which  must  be  kneaded,  and  put  into 
taffeta  for  use.    Or:  white  wax,  2  ounces;  Bur- 
gundy pitch,  J  ounce;  black  pitch,  -J  ounce. 
Melt  together,  aud  add  by  degrees  2  ounces 
powdered  asphaltum,  and  boil  it  till  a  drop 
cooled  on  a  plate  becomes  brittle. 

2961.  Etching   Fluid   for   Copper. 
Aquafortis,  2  ounces ;  water,  5  ounces.   Mix. 

2962.  Callot's  Eau  Forte  for   Fine 
Touches.     Dissolve  4  parts  each  of  verdi- 
gris, alum,  sea  salt,  and  sal  ammoniac,  in  8 
parts  vinegar ;  add  16  parts  water,  boil  for  a 
minute,  and  let  it  cool. 

2963.  Etching  Fluid  for  Steel.    Io- 
dine, 1  ounce ;  iron  filings,  ±  drachm ;  water, 
4  ounces.     Digest  till  the  iron  is  dissolved. 
Or:  pyroligneous  acid,  4  parts  by  measure; 
alcohol,  1  part.     Mix,  and  add  1  part  double 
aquafortis  (specific  gravity  1.28).     Apply  it 
from  1£  to  15  minutes. 

2964.  To  Make  Colored  Prints  Re- 
semble Oil  Paintings.      Take  of  Canada 
balsam,  1  ounce ;  spirit  of  turpentine,  2  oun- 
ces ;  mix  them  together.     Before  this  com- 
position is    applied,  the    drawing    or   print 
should  be  sized  with  a  solution  of  isinglass  in 
water,  and,  when  dry,  the  varnish  should  be 
applied  with  a  camel's-hair  brush. 

2965.  To  Varnish  Drawings,  or  any 
Kind  of  Paper  or  Card  Work.    Dissolve 
1  ounce  best  isinglass  in  about  1  pint  water, 
by   simmering    it    over  the    fire ;    strain    it 
through  fine  muslin,  and  keep  it  for  use.    Try 
the  size  on  a  piece  of  paper  moderately  warm. 
If  it  glistens,  it  is  too  thick,  and  requires  more 


water;  if  it  soaks  into  the  paper,  it  is  too 
thin,  and  needs  more  isinglass ;  it  should 
merely  dull  the  surface.  Then  give  the 
drawing  2  or  3  coats,  letting  it  dry  between 
each,  being  careful  (particularly  in  the  first 
coat)  to  bear  very  lightly  on  the  brush 
(which  should  be  a  flat  camel's-hair),  from 
which  the  size  should  flow  freely ;  otherwise, 
the  drawing  may  be  damaged.  Then  take  the 
best  mastich  varnish,  and  with  it  give  at  least 

3  coats.     This  is  the  method  used  by  many 
eminent  artists,  and  is  found  superior  to  any 
that  has  been  tried. 

2966.  Varnish  for  Shoes.  Put  £ 
pound  gum  shellac,  broken  up  in  small  pieces, 
into  a  quart  bottle  or  jug,  cover  it  with 
alcohol,  cork  it  tight,  and  put  it  on  a  shelf  in 
a  warm  place ;  shake  it  well  several  times  a 
day,  then  add  a  piece  of  camphor  as  large  as 
a  hen's  egg,  shake  it  well,  and  in  a  few  hours 
shake  it  again  and  add  1  ounce  lampblack. 
If  the  alcohol  is  good  it  will  all  be  dissolved  in 
2  days ;  then  shake  and  use.  if  it  gets  too 
thick,  add  alcohol,  pour  out  2  or  3  tea-spoon- 
fuls in  a  saucer,  and  apply  it  with  a  small 
paint  brush.  If  the  materials  are  all  good  it 
will  dry  in  about  5  minutes,  giving  a  gloss 
equal  to  patent  leather,  and  will  be  removed 
only  by  wearing  it  off.  The  advantage  of 
this  preparation  over  others  is,  it  does-  not 
strike  into  the  leather  and  make  it  hard,  but 
remains  on  the  surface,  and  yet  excludes  the 
water  almost  perfectly.  The  same  prepara- 
tion is  admirable  for  harness,  and  does  not 
soil  when  touched,  as  is  usually  the  case  with 
lampblack  preparations. 

2967.  Varnish  for  Harness.  Take 
95  per  cent,  alcohol,  1  gallon;  white  pine 
turpentine,  !$•  pounds;  gum  shellac,  li 
pounds;  Yenice  turpentine,  1  gill.  Let  these 
stand  in  a  jug  in  the  sun  or  by  a  stove  until 
the  gums  are  dissolved,  then  add  sweet  oil,  1 
gill ;  and  lampblack,  2  ounces ;  rub  the  lamp- 
black first  with  a  little  of  the  varnish.  This 
varnish  is  better  than  the  old  style,  from  the 
fact  that  its  polish  is  as  good,  and  it  does  not 
crack  when  the  harness  is  twisted  or  knocked 
about. 

2968.  Flexible    Japan    Black    for 
Leather.      Burnt  umber,  8    ounces;    true 
asphaltum,  3  or  4  ounces ;  boiled  linseed  oil, 
1  gallon;  grind  the  umber  with  a  little  of  the 
oil ;  add  it  to  the  asphaltum,  previously  dis- 
solved in  a  small  quantity  of  the  oil  by  heat ; 
mix,  add  the  remainder  of  the  oil ;  boil,  cool, 
and  thin  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  oil  of 
turpentine. 

2969.  Inflexible   Japan   Black  for 
Leather.     Shellac,  1  ounce ;  wood  naphtha, 

4  ounces  ;  lampblack  to  color;  dissolve. 
2970.   Varnish  or  Enamel  for  Coating 

the  Insides  of  Casks.  A  new  application 
of  charcoal  has  recently  been  made  in  Eng- 
land for  the  manufacture  of  a  permanent 
enamel,  or  varnish  for  coating  the  insides  of 
casks.  The  charcoal,  which  is  made  from  the 
wood  of  Salix  Alba  (white  willow),  is  reduced 
tova  very  fine  powder,  and  mixed  with  proper 
proportions  of  shellac  and  methylated  spirit. 
When  ready  for  use  it  is  laid  on  with  a  brush, 
and  the'  inside  of  the  cask  is  fired,  so  as  to 
remove  the  spirit  and  leave  only  the  lining  of 
charcoal  and  shellac ;  it  is  then  coated  again 
and  fired  a  second  time,  after  which  it  is 


272 


VARNISHING. 


allowed  to  stand  a  short  time  before  being 
used.  This  composition  is  said  to  form  a 
perfect  enamel,  and,  while  it  prevents  any 
chance  of  leakage,  it  preserves  the  casks  in  an 
extraordinary  manner.  It  answers  admirably 
for  beer  and  acids,  and  is  largely  adopted  by 
some  of  our  principal  brewers. 


The  art  of  applying 

V  varnishes  to*various  surfaces.  -This 
.requires  experience  and  care,  both  in  the 
selection  of  appropriate  varnishes,  and  in  the 
manner  of  applying  them. 

2972.  To  Finish  Walnut  Wood  for 
Varnishing.  Mix,  with  good  whiting,  such 
colors  as  will  produce  as  near  as  possible  the 
color  of  the  wood  to  be  filled.  This  mixture 
to  be  dry.  Then  give  the  wood  a  good  coat 
of  oil,  and  sprinkle  the  mixture  over  the  work 
until  it  is  pretty  well  covered ;  then,  with  a 
soft  rag  or  other  soft  substance,  rub  this  in 
well.  Wipe  off  all  superfluous  material.  Let 
* *-*•  This  mode  is 


regular  coat.  This  must  be  done  as  quickly 
as 'possible;  and  yet  not  quickly  enough  to 
cause  the  varnish  to  foam  or  bubble  as  it 
leaves  the  brush,  always  taking  care  not  to 
pass  the  brush  twice  over  the  same  place,  if  it 
can  possibly  be  avoided.  Let  it  stand  to  dry  in 
a  moderately  warm  place,  that  the  varnish 
may  not  chill.  Varnish  must  always  be  ap- 
plied in  a  moderately  warm  room,  where  the 
air  is  dry  and  free  from  dust ;  and  care  must 
be  taken  never  to  apply  a  second  coat  until 
the  former  one  has  become  quite  dry.  It  re- 
quires practice  to  find  out  how  much  varnish 
to  take  in  the  brash.  Enough  must  be  left 
on  an  upright  surface  to  ensure  a  perfect 
coating ;  but  too  much  will  settle  downwards 
before  it  sets  and  make  unsightly  ridges  as  it 
dries.  On  a  horizontal  surface,  a  trifle  more 
varnish  can  be  applied  than  on  an  upright 
one,  but  not  much  more ;  as  a  too  thick  coat- 
ing, even  if  it  cannot  ran,  will  dry  neither 
hard  nor  smooth.  After  giving  the  work 
about  6  or  7  coats,  let  it  get  quite  hard 
(which  you  will  prove  by  pressing  your 
knuckles  on  it;  if  it  leave  a  mark,  it  is  not 
hard  enough) ;  then,  with  the  first  three 


dry  thoroughly,  and  varnish, 
far  superior  to  sizing. 

2973.    Finishing  Walnut.    For  filling 

walnut  wood,  there  arc  many  compounds  in  |  you  mean  to  polish,  in  order  to  take  out  all 
use,   several  of  them  under  patentsj    that  the  streaks  or  partial  lumps  made  by  the 


fingers  of  the  hand,  rub  the  varnish  until  it 
chafes,  and  proceed  over  that  part  of  the  work 


which  discolors  the  wood  the  least,  and  at  the 
same  time  produces  a  fine  finish,  is  the  most 
simple  of  them  all,  being  nothing  but  fine  rye 
flour  mixed  with  boiled  oil,  Japan  and  turpen- 
tine, ground  fine  in  a  paint  mill,  and  slightly 
colored  with  burnt  umber. 

2974.  To  Varnish  Walnut  Furniture. 
In  dressing  over  old  furniture,  the  first  thing 
to  be  done  is  to  wash  it  over  with  lime,  or 
soda  and  water,  to  remove  all  effects  of  grease 
from  sweaty  hands,  which  will  prevent  var- 
nish from  flowing  freely  or  hardening  well. 
If  the  work  requires  refilling,  rye  flour,  wheat 
flour,  corn  starch,  or  Paris  white,  ground  fine 
in  oil  and  turpentine,  will  do ;  but  1  or  2  coats 
of  shellac  should  be  laid  on  and  rubbed 
smooth  before  applying  the  varnish.  "Work 
finished  in  oil,  without  varnish,  should  be 
filled  with  a  harder  substance  than  starch. 
Some  use  white  wax  reduced  in  turpentine ; 
but  what  is  better  is  a  compound  of  equal 
parts,  by  weight,  of  whiting,  plaster  of  Paris, 
pumice  stone,  and  litharge,  to  which  may  bo 
added  a  little  French  yellow,  asphaltum,  van- 
dyke  brown,  and  terra  di  Sienna.  Mix  with 
1  part  Japan,  2  of  boiled  oil,  and  3  of  turpen- 
tine. Grind  fine  in  a  mill.  Lay  the  filling 
on  with  a  brash,  rub  it  in  well,  let  it  set  20 
minutes,  then  rub  off  clean.  Let  it  harden  2 
or  3  days,  then  rub  smooth,  and,  if  required, 
repeat  the  process.  When  the  filling  is  satis- 
factory, finish  with  linseed  oil,  put  oil  with  a 
brush ;  wipe  off,  and  rub  to  a  polish  with  fine 
cotton ;  finish  with  a  silk  handkerchief,  or 
any  fine  fabric.  "When  the  furniture  is 
cleaned  and  filled,  proceed  as  directed  in  the 
next  receipt. 

2975.  To  Varnish  Furniture.  "When 
the  work  is  quite  clean,  fill  up  all  knots  or 
blemishes  with  cement  of  the  same  color. 
See  that  the  brush  is  clean,  and  free  from 
loose  hairs  ;  then  dip  it  in  the  tarnish,  stroke 
it  along  the  wire  raised  across  the  top  of  the 
varnish  pot,  and  give  tho  work  a  thin  and 


brush;  then  give  it  another  coat,  and  let  it 
stand  a  day  or  two  to  harden.  The  best 
vessel  for  holding  varnish  is  sold  at  color 
shops,  called  a  varnish  pan.  It  is  constructed 
of  tin,  with  a  false  bottom ;  the  interval  be- 
tween the  two  bottoms  is  filled  with  sand, 
which,  being  heated  over  the  fire,  keeps  the 
varnish  fluid,  and  it  flows  more  readily  from 
the  brush.  There  is  a  tin  handle  to  it,  and 
the  false  bottom  slopes  from  one  end  to  the 
other,  which  causes  the  varnish  to  run  to  one 
end.  It  has  also  a  wire  fixed  across  the  top, 
to  wipe  the  brush  against. 

2976.  To  Polish  Varnished  Surfaces. 
To  give  the  highest  degree  of  lustre  to  varnish 
after  it  is  laid  on,  as  well  as  to  remove  the 
marks  of  tho  brash,  it  undergoes  the  operation 
of  polishing.     This  is  performed  by  first  rub- 
bing it  with  very  finely  powdered   pumice 
stone  and  water ;  afterwards,  patiently,  with 
an  oiled  rag  and  Tripoli  until   the  required 
polish    is   produced.      The    surface  is    then 
cleaned  off  with  soft  linen  cloths,  cleared  of 
all  greasiness  with  powdered  starch,  and  then 
rubbed  bright  with  the  palm  of  the  hand. 

2977.  To   Keep  Brushes   in   Order. 
The  brushes  used  for  varnishing   are  either 
flat  in  tin,  or  round,  tied  firm  to  the  handle, 
and  made  cither  of  cainePs-hair  or  very  fine 


bristles.      Oil    varnishes    are 
brushes  of  fine  bristles ;    lac 


applied    with 
varnishes 


flowed  on  with  camel's-hair  brushes.  It  is 
necessary  to  be  very  careful  in  cleaning  them 
after  being  used ;  for,  if  laid  by  with  the  var- 
nish in  them,  they  aro  soon  spoiled.  There- 
fore, after  using,  wash  them  well  in  spirits  of 
wine  or  turpentine,  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  varnish ;  after  which  they  may  be  washed 
out  with  hot  water  and  soap,  when  they  will 
bo  as  good  as  new,  and  last  a  great  while 
with  care.  The  spirits  that  are  used  for 
cleaning  may  be  used  to  mix  with  vnrni^h  for 
tho  more  common  purposes,  or  the  brashes 
may  be  cleaned  merely  with  boiling  water 


POLISHING. 


273 


yellow  soap. 
2978.      To 


Restore    Furniture.      An 


containing  a  little  washing  soda,  and  strong :  stone,  free  from  stony  particles,  and  cut  the 

way  of  the  fibres,  rub  the  wood  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  grain,  keeping  it  moist  with  water. 
Let  the  work  dry;  then  wet  it  again,  and 
the  grain  will  be  much  smoother,  and  will  not 
raise  so  much.  Repeat  the  process,  and  the 
surface  will  become  perfectly  smooth,  and  the 


experienced  cabinet-maker  informs  us  that 
the  best  preparation  for  cleaning  picture 
frames  and  restoring  furniture,  especially  that 
somewhat  marred  or  scratched,  is  a  mixture 


of  three  parts   of    linseed  oil  and  one  part  texture  of  the  wood  much  hardened.     If  this 


spirits  of  turpentine.  It  not  only  covers  the 
disfigured  surface,  but  restores  wood  to  its 
original  color,  and  leaves  a  lustre  upon  the 
surface.  Put  on  with  a  woolen  cloth,  and 
when  dry,  rub  with  woolen. 


Polishing. 
work  depend 


enough,   particularly 
all  so'ft.     A  good  gh 


The  beauty  of  cabinet- 
work depends  upon  the  care  with 
which  it  is  finished.  Some  clean  off  with 
scraping  and  rubbing  with  glass  paper.  This 
should  be  done  in  all  cases ;  but  it  is  not 
where  the  grain  is  at 
ass-paper  also  is  essen- 
tial. (See  No.  1933.)  A  polish  should  then 
be  added.  But,  unless  the  varnish  for  cab- 
inet-work be  very  clear  and  bright,  it  will 
give  a  dingy  shade  to  all  light-colored  woods. 
This  should,  therefore,  be  a  previous  care. 
Again,  some  workmen  polish  with  rotten 
stone,  others  with  putty-powder,  and  others 
with  common  whiting  and  water ;  but  Tripoli 
will  be  found  to  answer  the  best. 

2980.  To  Polish  Varnish  is  certainly  a 
tedious  process,  and  considered  by  many  as  a 
matter  of  difficulty.     Put  2  ounces  powdered 
Tripoli   into  an  earthen  pot  or  basin,  with 
water  sufficient  to  cover  it ;  then,  with  a  piece 
of  fine  flannel  four  times  doubled,  laid  over  a 
piece  of  cork  rubber,  proceed  to  polish  the 
varnish,    always  wetting   it  well  with    the 
Tripoli  and  water.     It  will  be  known  when  the 
process  is  complete  by  wiping  a  part  of  the 
work  with  a  sponge,  and  observing  whether 
there  is  a  fair  and  even  gloss.     Clean  off  with 
a  bit  of  mutton-suet  and  fine  flour.     Be  care- 
ful not  to  rub  the  work  too  hard,  or  longer 
than  is  necessary  to  make  the  face  perfectly 
smooth  and  even. 

2981.  The  French  Method  of  Polish- 
ing.    With  a  piece  of  fine  pumice-stone,  and 
water,  pass  regularly  over  the  work  with  the 
grain  until  the  rising  of  the  grain  is   down; 
then,  with  powdered  Tripoli  and  boiled  lin- 
seed  oil,   polish  the  work  to  a  bright  face. 
This  will  be  a  very  superior  polish,  but  it  re- 
quires considerable  time. 

2982.  To  Polish  Brass   Ornaments 
Inlaid  in  Wood.      The  brass-work    must 
first  be  filed  very  even  with  a  smooth  file; 
then,  having  mixed  some  very  finely  pow- 
dered Tripoli  with  linseed  oil,  polish  the  work 
with  a  rubber  made  from  a  piece  of  old  hat  or 
felt,  as  you  would  polish  varnish,  until  the 
desired  effect  is  produced.    If  the  work  be 
ebony,  or  black  rosewood,  take  some  elder- 
coal,  powdered  very  fine,  and   apply  it  dry 
after  you  have  done  with  the  Tripoli.    It  will 
increase  the  beauty  of  the  polish. 

2983.  To  Clean    Soft  Mahogany  or 
other  Porous  Wood.    After  scraping  and 
sand-papering  in  the  usual  manner,  take  a 
sponge  and  well  wet  the  surface,  to  raise  the 
grain ;  then,   with  a  piece  of  fine    pumice- 


does  not  succeed  to  satisfaction,  the  surface 
may  be  improved  by  using  the  pumice-stone 
with  cold-drawn  linseed  oil,  proceeding  iri 
the  same  manner  as  with  water.  This  will  be 
found  to  give  a  most  beautiful  as  well  as  a 
d&rable  face  to  the  work,  which  may  then  bo 
polished  or  varnished. 

2984.  To  Clean  and  Finish  Mahog- 
any Work.    Scrape  and  saud-paper  the  work 
as  smooth  as  possible ;  go  over  every  part  with 
a  brush  dipped  in  furniture  oil,  and  let  it  re- 
main all  night ;  have  ready  the  powder  of  the 
finest  red  brick,  which  tie  up  in  a  cotton 
stocking,  and  sift  equally  over  the  work  the 
next  morning,   and,   with  a  leaden  or  iron 
weight  in  a  piece  of  carpet,  rub  it  well  the 
way  of  the  grain,  backward  and  forward,  till 
it  has  a  good  gloss.    If  not  sufficient,  or  if  the 
grain  appears  at  all  rough,  repeat  the  pro- 
cess.   Be  careful  not  to  put  too  much  of  the 
brick-dust,  as  it  should  not  be  rubbed  dry, 
but  rather  as  a  paste  upon  the  cloth.    When 
the  surface  is  perfectly  smooth,  clean  it  off 
with  a  rubber  of  carpet  and  fine  mahogany 
saw-dust.      This  process  will    give    a  good 
gloss,  and  make  a  surface  that  will  improve 
by  wear. 

2985.  To  Clean  and  Polish  Old  Fur- 
niture.    Take  a  quart  of  stale  beer  or  vine- 
gar,  put  a  handful  of  common  salt  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  muriatic  acid  into  it,  and 
boil  it  for  15  minutes ;  it  may  be  kept  in  a 
bottle,   and  wanned  when  wanted  for  use. 
Having  previously  washed  the  furniture  with 
soft  hot  water,  to  get  the  dirt  off,  wash  it  care- 
fully with  the  above  mixture;  then  polish, 
according  to  the  directions,  with  any  of  the 
foregoing  polishes. 

2986.  Mixture  for  Cleaning  Furni- 
ture.    Cold-drawn  linseed  oil,  1  quart;  spirit 

sint  each;   butter 
2  ounces ;  spirit  of 

turpentine,  \  pint.  This  mixture  requires  to 
be  well  shaken  before  it  is  used.  A  little  of 
it  is  then  to  be  poured  upon  a  rubber,  which 
must  be  well  applied  to  the  surface  of  the  fur- 
niture ;  several  applications  will  be  necessary 
for  new  furniture,  or  for  such  as  had  previous- 
ly been  French  polished  or  rubbed  with  bees' 
wax. 

2987.  Furniture  Polish.     Dissolve  4 
ounces  best  shellac  in  2  pints  95  per  cent,  al- 
cohol; add  to  this  2  pints  linseed  oil,  and  1 
pint  spirits  of  turpentine ;  when  mixed,  add 
4  ounces  sulphuric  ether,  and  4  ounces  am- 
monia water ;  mix  thoroughly.     Shake  when 
used,  and  apply  with  a  sponge  lightly.    This 
is  an  excellent  article,  especially  where  the 
varnish  has  become  old  and  tarnished. 

2988.  Polishing  Paste.     Take  3  ounces 
white  wax,  i  ounce  Castile  soap,  1  gill  tur- 
pentine.    Shave  the  wax  and  soap  very  fine 
and  put  the  wax  to  the  turpentine;   let  it 
stand  24  hours ;  then  boil  the  soap  in  1  gill 
water,  and  add  to  the  wax  and  turpentine. 
This  has  been  highly  recommended. 


of  wine,  and  vinegar, 
(terchloride)  of  antimony, 


274: 


FRENCH   POLISHING. 


2989.  Furniture  Polish.     Bees'  wax,  J 
pound ;  alkanet  root,  J  ounce ;  melt  together 
in  a  pipkin  until  the  former  is  well  colored. 
Then  add  linseed  oil,  and  spirits  of  turpentine, 
of  each  £  gill;  strain  through  a  piece  of  coarse 
muslin. 

2990.  Furniture  Paste.     Turpentine,  1 
pint;  alkanet  root,  Bounce;  digest  until  suf- 
ficiently colored,  then  add  bees'  wax,  scraped 
small,  4  ounces ;  put  the  vessel  into  hot  wa- 
ter and  stir  until  dissolved.     If  wanted  pale, 
the  alkanet  may  be  omitted. 

2991.  Composition  for  Soft  or  Light 
Mahogany.     Boil  together  cold-drawn  1m- 
seed  oil,  and  as  much  alkanet  root  as  it  will 
cover,  and  to  every  pint  of  oil  add  1  ounce  of 
the  best  rose  pink.    "When  all  the  color  is  ex- 
tracted, strain  it  off,  and  to  every  pint  add  | 
gill  spirits  of  turpentine.     This  will  be  a  very 
superior  composition  for  soft  and  light  ma- 
hogany. 

2992.  To  Wax  Furniture.     In  waxing, 
it  is  of  great  importance  to  make  the  coating 
as  thin  as  possible,  in  order  that  the  veins  of 
the  wood  may  be  distinctly  seen.     The  follow- 
ing preparation  is  the  best  for  performing  this 
operation:    Put  2  ounces  white  and  yellow 
wax  over  a  moderate  fire,  in  a  very  clean  ves- 
sel, and,  when  it  is  quite  melted,  add  4  ounces 
best  spirits  of  turpentine.     Stir  the  whole 
until  it  is  entirely  cool,  and  you  will  have  a 

Eomade  fit  for  waxing  furniture,  which  must 
e  rubbed  over  it  according  to  the  usual 
method.  The  oil  soon  penetrates  the  pores  of 
the  wood,  brings  out  the  color  of  it,  causes 
the  wax  to  adhere  better,  and  produces  a  lustre 
equal  to  that  of  varnish,  without  being  subject 
to  any  of  its  inconveniences.  The  polish  may 
be  renewed  at  any  time  by  rubbing  it  with  a 
piece  of  fine  cork. 


Tprench  Polishing.    The 

JL.  method  of  varnishing  furniture  by  means 
of  rubbing  it  on  the  surface  of  the  wood,  is  of 
comparatively  modern  date.  To  put  on  a 
hard  face,  which  shall  not  be  so  liable  to 
scratch  as  varnish,  and  yet  appear  equally 
fine,  the  French  polish  was  introduced.  Below 
we  give  a  full  direction  of  the  process,  and 
also  the  various  preparations  of  the  different 
compositions  necessary. 

2994.  To  French  Polish.  The  varnish 
being  prepared  (shellac),  the  article  to  be 
polished  being  finished  off  as  smoothly  as 
possible  with  glass  paper,  and  the  rubber 
being  made  as  directed  below,  proceed  to  the 
operation  as  follows : — The  varnish,  in  a  nar- 
row-necked bottle,  is  to  be  applied  to  the 
middle  of  the  flat  face  of  the  rubber,  by  laying 
the  rubber  on  the  mouth  of  the  bottle  and 
shaking  up  the  varnish  once,  as  by  this  means 
the  rubber  will  imbibe  the  proper  quantity  to 
varnish  a  considerable  extent  of  surface.  The 
rubber  is  then  to  be  enclosed  in  a  soft  linen 
cloth,  doubled,  the  rest  of  the  Qloth  being 
gathered  up  at  the  back  of  the  rubber  to  form 
a  handle,  if  oisten  the  face  of  the  linen  with 
a  little  raw  linseed  oil,  applied  with  the  finger 
to  the  middle  of  it.  Place  the  work  opposite 
the  light,  pass  the  rubber  quickly  and  lightly 
over  its  surface  uniformly  in  small  circular 


strokes,  until  the  varnish  becomes  dry,  or 
nearly  so ;  again  charge  the  rubber  as  before 
with  varnish  (omitting  the  oil),  and  repeat 
the  rubbing,  until  three  coats  are  laid  on, 
when  a  little  oil  may  be  applied  to  the  rubber, 
and  two  coats  more  given  to  it.  Proceed  in 
this  way  until  the  varriish  has  acquired  some 
thickness ;  then  wet  the  inside  of  the  linen 
cloth,  before  applying  the  varnish,  with  alco- 
hol, or  wood  naphtha,  and  rub  quickly,  lightly, 
and  uniformly,  the  whole  surface.  Lastly, 
wet  the  linen  cloth  with  a  little  oil  and 
alcohol  without  varnish,  and  rub  as  before  till 
dry.  Each  coat  is  to  be  rubbed  until  the  rag 
appears  dry ;  and  too  much  varnish  must  not 
be  put  on  the  rag  at  a  time.  Be  also  very 
particular  in  letting  the  rags  be  very  clean 
and  soft,  as  the  polish  depends,  in  a  great 
measure,  on  the  care  taken  in  keeping  it 
clean  and  free  from  dust  during  the  operation. 
If  the  work  be  porous,  or  the  grain  coarse,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  give  it  a  coat  of  clear  size 
previous  to  commencing  with  the  polish;  and, 
when  dry,  gently  go  over  it  with  very  fine 
glass  paper.  The  size  will  fill  up  the  pores, 
and  prevent  the  waste  of  the  polish,  by  being 
absorbed  into  the  wood,  and  be  also  a  saving 
of  considerable  time  in  the  operation. 

2995.  To   Make  a   French   Polish 
Rubber.     Roll  up  a  strip  of  thick  woolen 
cloth  which  has  been  torn  off,  so  as  to  form  a 
soft  elastic  edge.     It  should  form  a  coil,  from 
1  to  3  inches  in  diameter,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  work.    This  rubber  is  to  be  secure- 
ly bound  with  thread,  to  prevent  it  from  un- 
coiling when  it  is  used. 

2996.  Best    French  Polish.     Shellac, 
3  parts;  gum  mastich,  1  part;  gum  sandarach, 
1  part ;  spirits  of  wine,  40  parts ;  the  mastich 
and  sandarach  must  first  be  dissolved  in  the 
spirits  of  wine,  and  then  the  shellac ;  the  pro- 
cess may  be  performed  by  putting  them  into 
a  bottle  loosely  corked,  arid  placing  it  in  a 
vessel  of  water  heated  to  a  little  below  173° 
Fahr.,  or  the  boiling  point  of  spirits  of  wine, 
until  the  solution  be  effected ;  the  clear  solu- 
tion may  be  poured  off  into  another  bottle  for 
use.    Various  receipts  for  the  French  polish 
have  been  published,  in  which  ingredients  are 
inserted  that  are  insoluble  in  spirits  of  wine, 
and  therefore  useless ;  and  others  contain  in- 
gredients that  are  soluble  in  water,  so  as  to 
render  the  mixture  more  easily  injured. 

2997.  Common    French  Polish.      A 
solution  of  shellac  in  wood  naphtha,  (pyrox- 
ilic  spirit).     (See  No.  2999.) 

2998.  Mastich  French  Polish.     Pale 
shellac,  3  pounds ;  mastich,  6  ounces ;  90  per 
cent  alcohol,  3  quarts.     (See  next  receipt.) 

2999.  Sandarach  French  Polish. 
Shellac,  2  pounds;  mastich  and  sandarach 
(both  in  powder),  of  each  1  ounce;  copal  var- 
nish, 12  ounces;  alcohol,  1  gallon.  All  the 
above  are  made  in  the  cold  by  frequently  stir- 
ring or  shaking  the  ingredients  together  in  a 
well-closed  bottle  or  other  vessel.  French 
polish  is  used  without  filtering. 

3000.  True  French  Polish.  To  1  pint 
spirits  of  wine  add  i  ounce  each  gum  copal 
and  sandarach,  and  1  ounce  shellac.  Let 
the  gums  be  well  bruised,  and  sifted  through 
a  piece  of  muslin.  Put  the  spirits  and  the 
gums  together  in  a  vessel  that  can  be  closely 
corked ;  place  them  near  a  warm  stove,  and 


TO    ENAMEL    WOOD-WORK. 


275 


frequently  shake  them.  In  2  or  3  days  they 
will  be  dissolved.  Strain  the  mixture  through 
a  piece  of  muslin,  and  keep  it  tight  corked  for 
use. 

3001.  French  Polish.     To  1  pint  spirits 
of  wine  add  i  ounce  gum  shellac,  the  same 
quantity  gum  lac,  and  J  ounce  gum  saudarach; 
put  these  ingredients  into  a  stone  bottle  near 
a  fire,  frequently  shaking  it ;  when  the  vari- 
ous gums  are  dissolved  it  is  fit  for  use. 

3002.  French  Polish.     Take  2  ounces 
wood  naphtha,  k  ounce  best  shellac,  1  drachm 
gum  benzoin;  crush  the  gums,  mix  them  with 
the  naphtha  in  a  bottle;  shake  them  frequent- 
ly till  dissolved;  it  is  then  ready  for  use.    This 
is  the  clear  polish.     Take  a  little  cotton  wool, 
apply  a  little  of  the  polish  to  it,  cover  it 
tightly  with  a  linen  rag,  to  which  apply  a 
drop  of  linseed  oil,  to  prevent  it  from  sticking 
to  the  wood ;  use  your  rubber  gently,  polish- 
ing from  a  centre  in  a  circular  manner ;  finish 
with  a  drop  of  spirits  of  wine  on  a  clean  rub- 
ber, which  will  extract  the  oil. 

3003.  To  Stain  or  Color  French  Pol- 
ish.    "Wood  may  be  stained  or  grained  any 
color  or  design,  by  mixing  it  with  the  polish, 
or  dipping  the  rubber  in  the  color  (finely 
powdered),  at  the  time  you  apply  the  polish. 
(See  Xo.  3002.)    To  produce  a  red,  dip  the 
cotton  into  dragon's  blood  (finely  powdered), 
immediately  applying  the  polish ;  then  cover 
with  the  linen,  and  polish.     For  yellow,  use 
the  best  chrome  yellow.     For  blue,  ultra- 
marine blue,  or  indigo.    For  black,  ivory  or 
lampblack,    <fec.      Graining    is    produced    by 
touching  or  streaking  the  wood  with  the  color, 
as  above,  in  irregular  lines  or  marks,  and  in 
such  shapes  as  the  fancy  may  suggest,  then 
finishing  it  with  a  coat  of  clear  polish. 

3004.  "Water-Proof  Polish.     Take  1 
pint  spirits   of  wine,  2  ounces  gum-benzoin, 
i  ounce  gum   sandarach,   and  i  ounce  gum 
anime ;  these  must  be  put  into  a  stoppered 
bottle,  and  placed  either  in  a  sand-bath  or  in 
hot  water  till  dissolved ;  then  strain  the  mix- 
ture,   and,    after  adding   about    J    gill    best 
clear  poppy  oil,  shake  it  well  up,  and  put  it 
by  for  use. 

'3005.  Bright  Polish.  1  pint  spirits  of 
wine  to  2  ounces  gum  benzoin  and  i  ounce 
gum-sandarach,  put  in  a  glass  bottle  corked, 
and  placed  in  a  sand-bath  or  hot  water  until 
you  find  all  the  gum  dissolved,  will  make  a 
beautiful  clear  polish  for  Tunbridgeware 
goods,  tea-caddies,  &c.  It  must  be  shaken 
from  time  to  time,  and,  when  all  dissolved, 
strained  through  a  fine  muslin  sieve,  and 
bottled  for  use. 

3006.  Prepared  Spirits  for  Finishing 
Polish.  This  preparation  is  useful  for  finish- 
ing after  any  of  the  foregoing  receipts,  as  it 
adds  to  the  lustre  and  durability,  as  well  as 
removing  every  defect,  of  the  other  polishes ; 
and  it  gives  the  surface  a  most  brilliant  ap- 
peai'ance.  Take  ^  pint  best  rectified  spirits 
of  wine,  2  drachms  shellac,  and  2  drachms 
gum-benzoin.  Put  these  ingredients  in  a 
bottle,  and  keep  it  in  a  warm  place  till  the 
gum  is  all  dissolved,  shaking  it  frequently ; 
when  cold,  add  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  the  best 
flear  white  poppy  oil ;  shake  them  well  to- 
gether, and  it  is  fit  for  use.  This  preparation 
is  used  in  the  same  manner  as  the  foregoing 
polishes ;  but,  in  order  to  remove  all  dull 


places,  the  pressure  in  rubbing  may  be  in- 
creased. 

3007.  Strong  Polish.     To  be  used  in 
the  carved  parts  of  cabinet-work  with  a  brush, 
as  in  standards,  pillars,  claws,  &c.     Dissolve 
2  ounces  seed  lac  and  2  ounces  white  resin  in 
1  pint  spirits  of  wine.     This  varnish  or  polish 
must  be  laid  on  warm,  and  if  the  work  can  bo 
warmed  also,  it  will  be  so  much  the  better ; 
at  any  rate,  moisture  and  dampness  must  be 
avoided. 

3008.  How  to  Give  Black  Walnut  a 
Dark  Dead  Smooth  Surface.      Take  as- 
phaltum,  pulverize  it,  place  it  in  a  jar  or 
bottle,  pour  over  it  about  twice  its  bulk  of 
turpentine  or  benzole,  put  it  in  a  warm  place, 
and  shake  it  from  time  to  time.     AVhen  dis- 
solved, strain  it  and  apply  it  to  the  wood  with 
a  cloth  or  stiff  brush.     If  it  should  make  too 
dark  a  stain,  thin  it  with  turpentine  or  ben- 
zole.    This  will  dry  in  a  few  hours.     If  it  is 
desired   to  bring  out  the   grain   still  more, 
apply  a  mixture  of  boiled  oil  and  turpentine  ; 
this  is  better  than  oil  alone.     Put  no  oil  with 
the  asphaltum  mixture,  as  it  will  dry  very 
slowly.    "When  the  oil  is  dry  the  wood  can  be 
polished  with  the  following  :  Shellac  varnish, 
of  the  usual  consistency,  2  parts ;  boiled  oil, 
1  part.     Shake  it  well  before  using.    Apply 
it  to  the  wood  by  putting  a  few  drops  on  a 
cloth  and  rubbing  briskly  on  the  wood  for  a 
few  moments.     This  polish  works  well  on  old 
varnished  furniture. 

3009.  Polish  for  Turners'  Work. 
Dissolve  sandarach  in  spirits  of  wine  in  the 
proportion  of  1  ounce  sandarach  to  -J-  pint  of 
spirits ;  next  shave  bees'  wax,  1  ounce,  and 
dissolve  it  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  spirits  of 
turpentine  to  make  it  into  a  paste ;  add  the 
former  mixture  by  degrees  to  it ;  then  with  a 
woolen  cloth  apply  it  to  the  work  while  it  is 
in  motion  in  the  lathe,  and  with  a  soft  linen 
rag  polish  it.  It  will  appear  as  if  highly 
varnished. 


To  Enamel  Wood-Work. 
This  is  a  process  for  creating  an  artifi- 
cial, glossy  surface  of  any  color  on  wood,  very 
durable,  and  highly  ornamental.  It  consists 
of  three  distinct,  successive  operations ;  first, 
the  colored  coating  or  surface;  next,  the 
preparation  of  the  surface  for  polishing ;  and 
finally,  polishing. 

3011.  To  Prepare  the  Filling-up 
Color  for  Enameling  Wood.  The  filling- 
up  color,  which  forms  the  body  of  the  enamel, 
is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  the  ultimate 
success  of  the  work.  Of  this  material  there 
are  several  kinds  manufactured — black,  brown, 
and  yellow,  for  coach  painters,  japanners,  and 
others  ;  but  for  use  in  interior  decoration  it 
is  preferable  to  use  the  white  lead  filling,  as, 
by  adding  the  necessary  staining  colors  (which 
do  not  affect  the  properties  of  the  enamel), 
a  solid  body  of  color  is  formed,  of  the  same 
tint,  or  nearly  so,  as  that  with  which  the 
work  is  required  to  be  finished,  thus  doing 
away  with  the  objections  which  maybe  urged 
against  the  black  or  dark-colored  filling.  It 
is  evident  that  if  work  which  has  to  be 
finished  white,  or  with  very  light  tints  of 
color,  be  filled  up  with  dark-colored  filling, 


276 


TO    ENAMEL    WOOD-WORE. 


the  number  of  coats  of  paiut  required  to  ob- 
scure or  kill  the  dark  color  will  be  so  many 
that  there  will  be  danger  of  the  work  becom- 
ing rough  and  uneven  in  parts.  The  white 
lead  should  be  ground  stiff  m  turpentine,  and 
about  one-fourth  part  of  the  ordinary  white 
lead,  ground  in  oil  added  to  it,  in  order  to 
prevent  the  enamel  cracking,  which  it  has  a 
tendency  to  do,  except  there  be  some  little  oil 
mixed  with  it.  A  sufficient  quantity  of 
polishing  copal  or  best  carriage  varnish  should 
now  be  added  to  bind  it  so  that  it  will  rub 
down  easily,  which  fact  cannot  be  properly 
ascertained  except  by  actual  trial,  inasmuch 
as  the  drying  properties  of  varnishes  vary, 
and  other  causes  influence  the  matter.  If 
there  be  too  much  varnish  in  the  stuff  the 
work  will  be  exceedingly  difficult  to  cut 
down,  and  if  too  little,  it  is  apt  to  break  up 
in  rubbing,  so  that  it  is  always  the  safest 
plan  to  try  the  enamel  color  before  commenc- 
ing anything  important. 

3012.  To  Lay  the  Color  on  Enameled 
Wood.      The  color,   being  properly  mixed, 
should  be  laid  on  the  work  in  the  ordinary 
manner,  using  it  rather  freely.    It  may  be  as 
well  to  state  here  that  no  filling  should  be 
put  upon  new  work  without  the  same  having 
had  2  or  3  coats  of  ordinary  oil  paint,  nor  on 
old  work  without  its  having  one  coat.     This 
gives  a  foundation  for  the  filling.     Successive 
coats  of  the  filling  should  now  be  laid  on  the 
work  until  there  is  a  sufficient  thickness  to 
cut  down  to  a  level  surface.     One  day  should 
intervene  between  each  coat,  in  order  to  allow 
it  to  harden  in  some  degree.    When  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  coats  are  put  on  (which  num- 
ber will,  of  course,  depend  upon  the  state  of 

"the  work  to  be  filled  up),  it  should  stand  for 
2  or  3  weeks,  until  it  is  thoroughly  hard ;  it 
will  then  be  ready  for  cutting  down,  which  is 
to  be  done  with  a  felt  rubber,  ground  pumice 
stone,  and  water. 

3013.  To   Prepare   the  Rubber  for 
Enameling  Wood.      The  felt  used   should 
be  such  as  the  sculptors  use  for  polishing 
marble,  which  varies  in  thickness  from  £  to  \ 
an  inch,  and  about  3  inches  square.    This 
should  be  fastened  with    resinous  gum    to 
square  pieces  of  wood  of  the  same  size,  but  1 
inch  thick,  so  as  to  give  a  good  hold  for  the 
hand  in  using.    These  pieces  of  wood,  covered 
with  felt,  may  be  made  of  any  size  or  shape 
to  fit  molded  surfaces  or  other  inequalities. 

3014.  To  Prepare  the  Pumice  Stone 
for  Enameling  Wood.     The  pumice  stone 
to  be  used  should  be  of  different  degrees  of 
fineness,  and  should  be  carefully  selected,  so 
as  to  be  sure  that  it  is  free  from  any  gritty 
substance.    It  is  sold  ready  ground,"  but  in 
situations  where  it  cannot  be   conveniently 
got,  it  may  be  prepared  from  the  lump,  by 
grinding  or  crushing  with  a  stone  and  muller, 
and  then  passed  through  fine  sieves  or  mus- 
lin;   by  using  these  of  different  degrees  of 
texture  the  ground  pumice  may  bo  produced 
of  different  degrees  of  fineness.     Unless  great 
care  bo  exercised  in  this  matter,  it  will  be 
found  that  particles  of  grit  will  be  mixed  with 
it,  which  make  deep  scratches  on  the  work, 
thus  causing  endless  trouble  and  annoyance, 
besides  spoiling  the  work.     The  greatest  care 
is  also  required  in  keeping  the  felt  clean  and 
free  from  grit.     Many  workmen  are  careless 


in  this  matter,  and,  when  working,  set  down 
the  felt  on  the  step-ladder  or  floor,  thus  allow- 
ing particles  of  sand  or  grit  to  get  upon  it. 

3015.  To  Cut  Down  or  Prepare  the 
Surface  for  Polishing.     In  cutting  down, 
it  is  best  to  use  a  piece  of  soft  lump  pumice 
stone  to  take  off  the  rough  parts.     The  work 
should  then  be  wet  with  a  sponge ;  the  felt 
must  first  be  soaked  in  water,   then   dipped 
into   the  powdered  pumice,   and    the    work 
rubbed  with  it,  keeping  it  moderately  wet, 
and    rubbing  with    a    circular    motion,    not 
straight  up  and  down  and  across,  and  with  a 
light  touch,  using  only  just  as  much  pressure 
as  will  cause  the  pumice  to  bite,  which  will 
be  very  clearly  felt  while  the  hand  is  in  mo- 
tion.     Care  and  patience  are  required  to  do 
this  properly,  for  if  the  pressure  be  too  great 
it  forces  the  pumice  into  the  body  of  the  filling 
color,  and  scratches  it  instead  of  cutting  or 
grinding  it  fairly  down.     No  hurry  will  avail 
in  doing  this  work,  it  must  have   its  time ; 
hurry  only  defeats  the    end  in    view,   and 
often  causes  much  unnecessary  labor.       A 
scratch,  caused  by  want  of  care  and  too  much 
haste,  will  often  throw  the  work  ba«k  for 
days,  and  involve  the  cost  and  labor  of  refill- 
ing.    In  practice  the  purpose  is  best  answered 
by  using  the  pumice  stone,  the  coarser  kind 
first,  then  the  medium,  and  finishing  with  the 
finest  last.    It  will  be  found  advantageous  to 
let  a  day  elapse  between  the  rubbing,  for 
when  the  surface  is  cut  down  the  filling  will 
in  all  cases  be  softer  underneath,  and  if  it  be 
allowed  to  stand  for  a  day,  the  newly  exposed 
surface  gets  harder,  and  of  course  rubs  down 
better.     The  pumice  stone    should    be  well 
washed  off  the  work  occasionally,  in  order  to 
see  what  progress  is  being  made,  and  if  it  re- 
quire more  rubbing  or  not.     If,  after  the  first 
rubbing,  the  surface  bo  found  not  sufficiently 
filled  up,  it  may  have  one  or  more  additional 
coats  of  filling  before  much  labor  has  been 
spent  upon  it. 

3016.  To  Polish  the  Filling.     When 
sufficiently  rubbed  down  with    the   pumice 
stone — that  is  to  say,  when  it  has  been  cut 
down  to  a  fine,  level,  and  uniform  surface, 
(see  No.  3015),  the  work  should  stand  for  a 
day  or  two  to  harden.    It  will  now  depend  en- 
tirely upon  the  work,  as  to  whether  it  must 
be  polished  upon  the  filling,  or  whether  it  will 
have  to   be  varnished   and  polished.     If  the 
filling  be  of  the  right  color,  and  of  one  uni- 
form tint,  it  is  best  to  bo  finished  in  this  state, 
because   it  will  have  a  surface  and  texture 
which  cannot  bo  got  by  any  other  means. 
Finished  in  this  state  it  has  all  the  uniformity 
of  surface   and   evidence   of  finish,   without 
that  appearance  of  varnish  which  is  so  ob- 
jectionable.    After  it  has  stood  a  day  or  two, 
the  work  must   be  polished  in  this    way : 
Take  a  clean  felt  and  rotten  stone,  either  in 
oil  or  water,  and  with  this  nib  the  work  as 
before,  until  the  polish  begins  to  appear;  then 
take  a  boss  ( i.  c.  a  ball  of  cotton  wool  in- 
closed in  fine  silk),  put  the  rotten  stone  upon 
this  and  keep  rubbing  with  the  circular  mo- 
tion until  the  polish  is  uniform  and  equal  all 
over.     The  rotten  stone  must  now  bo  carefully 
cleaned  off;  if  it  bo  in  oil,  clean  off  with  f.iie 
flour;   if  in  water,  with   sponge   and   wash- 
leather  and  water,  taking  care  not  to  scratch. 
A  clean  damp  chamois  or  wadi-leathor  will 


JAPANNING. 


277 


now  bo  required,  which  must  be  held  ia  the 
left  hand,  leaving  the  right  perfectly  at  liberty. 
Now  use  the  ball  of  the  right  hand,  press 
gently  upon  the  panel,  and  draw  it  forwards 
or  towards  you.  If  this  be  done  properly,  it 
will  bring  up  a  clear  polish  upon  the  work. 
The  hand  should  be  kept  slightly  damp  by 
drawing  it  across  the  leather  almost  every 
time  the  hand  is  drawn  forward.  If  this  be 
done  effectually,  a  rustling  sound  will  bo  pro- 
duced while  the  hand  is  in  motion ;  if  this  be 
so,  the  polish  will  be  sure  to  follow.  The 
polish  thus  produced  on  the  filling  alone  will 
have  a  beautiful  soft  appearance ;  but  if  the 
work  has  to  be  finished  with  a  brilliant  lustre, 
and  to  a  high  degree  of  polish,  proceed  as  fol- 
lows: 

3017.  To  Finish  Wood  with,  a  Bril- 
liant Polish.  After  being  cut  down  with 
the  pumice  and  felt  as  directed  ia  Xo  3015, 
the  filling  has  to  be  coated  with  two  or  more 
coats  of  the  best  polishing  copal  varnish,  hav- 
ing a  quantity  of  the  best  tube  flake  white; 
this  should  be  mixed  with  the  varnish  in  suffi- 
cient quantity  to  form  a  creamy  mixture, 
with  which  the  work  must  be  coated — one, 
two,  or  three  coats,  as  may  be  desirable.  This 
should  stand  for  3  or  4  weeks,  until  it  becomes 
hard;  for  the  harder  it  is  the  better  it  will  pol- 
ish. It  must  then  be  cut  down  with  felt  and 
the  finest  ground  pumice  stone  in  water,  and 
polished  with  the  rotten  stone,  as  before  de- 
scribed. By  this  means  a  bright  and  brilliant 
polish  may  be  obtained,  of  a  very  enduring 
nature.  The  same  process  will  of  course  an- 
swer for  all  varnished  imitations  of  woods 
and  marbles,  and  all  work  which  will  admit 
of  the  application  of  oil  varnishes. 


J  a/panniHg  is  a  kind  of  varnishing 
or  lacquering,  practiced  in  perfection  by 
the  Japanese,  whence  the  name.  The  only 
difference  between  varnishing  and  japanning 
is  that  after  the  application  of  every  coat  of 
color  or  varnish,  the  object  so  varnished  is 
placed  in  an  oven  or  chamber  called  a  stove, 
at  as  high  a  temperature  as  can  safely  be  em- 
ployed without  injuring  the  articles  or  causing 
the  varnish  to  blister  or  run. 

3019.  To  Prepare  Metal  for  Japan- 
ning.    Metal  requires  no  other  preparation 
than  cleaning  with  turpentine,  to  free  it  from 
grease  or  oil,  unless  the  latter  should  happen 
to  be  linseed  oil,  in  which  case  the  cleaning  is 
generally  dispensed  with,  and  the  articles  are 
placed  in  the  stove  and  heated  until  the  oil  is 
baked  quite  hard. 

3020.  To  Prepare  Wood  for  Japan- 
ning.    Wood  that  is  intended  to  be  used  for 
the  best  japanned  work,  requires  to  be  thor- 
oughly dried  before  it  is  made  up,  otherwise 
it  will  be  subject  to  all  the  evils  of  shrinking, 
warping,  and  splitting,  when  exposed  to  the 
heat  of  the  stove.     To  avoid  those  evils,  the 
wood,  after  having  been  well  seasoned  in  the 
usual  manner,  by  exposure  to  the  air,  is  sawn 
out  nearly  to  the  required  forms,  and  baked 
for  several  days  in  the  japanner's  stove,  the 
heat  of  which  is  gradually  increased;  and  the 
wood  is  afterwards  worked  up  into   chairs, 
tables,  trays,  and  similar  articles,  which  are 
afterwards  again  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the 


stove,  and  any  cracks  or  other  imperfections, 
that  may  be  thus  rendered  apparent,  are  care- 
fully stopped  with  putty  or  white  lead  before 
the  japanning  is  commenced. 

3021.  To  Prepare   the   Ground   for 
Japanning.     For  black  japanned  work,  the 
ground  is  first  prepared  with  a  coating  of 
black,  made  by  mixing  dross  ivory  black  to  a 
proper  consistence  with  dark  colored  anlmc 
varnish,  as  this  gives  a  blacker  surface  than 
could  be  produced  by  japan  alone.    If  the 
surface  is  required  to  be  polished,  five  or  six 
coats  of  japan  are  necessary  to  give  sufficient 
body  to  prevent  the  japan  from  being  rubbed 
through  in  polishing. 

3022.  To  Make  Black  Japan  Varnish. 
Melt  together  50  pounds  Isfaplcs  asphaltum 
and  8  pounds  dark  gum  anime,  and  boil  for  2 
hours  in  12  gallons  linseed  oil;  then  melt  10 
pounds  dark  gum  amber,  and  boil  it  with  2 
gallons  linseed  oil ;  add  this  to  the  other,  with 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  dryers,  and  boil  for  2 
hours  longer,  or  until  a  little  of  the  mass, 
when  cooled,  may  be  rolled  into  pills ;  then 
withdraw  the  heat,  and  afterwards  thin  down 
with  30  gallons  oil  of  turpentine.     This  is  ex- 
cellent for  either  wood  or  metals. 

3023.  Flexible  Black  Japan  Varnish. 
A  good  black  japan  is  made  ot  burnt  umber, 
4  ounces;   true  asphaltum,  2  ounces:    and 
boiled  oil,  2  quarts.  •  Dissolve  the  asphaltum 
at  first  in  a  little  oil,  using  a  moderate  heat ; 
then  add  the  umber,  ground  in  oil,  and  lastly, 
the  rest  of  the  oil,  and  incorporate  thoroughly. 
Thin  with  turpentine.    It  is  a  flexible  japan, 
and  may  be  used  on  metal  work  which  requires 
to  be  bent  somewhat. 

3024.  Colored  Japan.  For  colored 
works  no  japan  is  used,  but  they  are  painted 
with  ordinary  painters'  colors,  ground  with 
Unseed  oil  or  turpentine,  and  mixed  with 
aniine  varnish ;  and  the  work  is  dried  in  the 
oven  in  the  same  manner  as  the  black  japan. 
To  protect  the  colors,  and  give  brilliancy  and 
durability  to  the  surface,  the  work  is  after- 
wards varnished  with  copal  or  anime  varnish, 
made  without  dryers.  2  or  3  coats  of  varnish 
suffice  for  ordinary  works,  and  5  or  6  for  the 
best  works  that  are  polished.  Very  pale 
varnish  is  of  course  required  for  light  colors. 
Ornamental  devices  are  painted  on  the  ob- 
jects in  the  "usual  manner,  after  the  general 
color  of  the  ground  has  been  laid  on.  The 
colors  are  dried  in  the  stove,  and  the  work  is 
finally  varnished  and  polished  just  the  same 
as  plain  colors,  but  more  carefully. 

3025.  Transparent  Japan  Varnish. 
Oil    turpentine,   8    ounces;    oil    lavender,  6 
ounces;  camphor,  1  drachm;  bruised  copal, 
2  ounces ;  dissolve.     Used  for  tin,  &c.    Quick 
drying  copal  varnish  is  usually  substituted. 

3026.  To  Color  Japan  Varnish.    The 
above  is  a  transparent  japan,  but  by  the  fol- 
lowing modifications  any  or  all  of  the  various 
colors  may  be  made  from  it.    It  is  indispen- 
sable that  the  colors  be  ground  to  an  im- 
palpable powder  before  mixing  with  the  var- 
nish, and  should  then  be  thoroughly  ground 
with  the  varnish,  otherwise  it  is  preferable  to 
apply  the  color  first  as  a  paint,  and  varnish 
afterwards  with  the  above  transparent  japan. 
Previous  to  varnishing  a  painted  surface,  it 
should  be  cut  down  with  pulverized  pumice- 
stone,  &c.,  as  directed  in  No.  1486. 


278 


INDIA    JAPANNING 


3027.  To  Color  Japan  Blue.     Indigo 
and  Prussian  blue,  both  finely  pulverized,  of 
each  %  ounce ;    spirits  of  turpentine,  1  pint. 
Mix  well  and  strain.     Or  use  verditer  glazed 
•with  Prussian  blue  or  smalt;  mis  -with  the 
varnish  in  TSo.  3025. 

3028.  To   Color   Japan   Red.     Yer- 
milion  makes  a  fine  scarlet,  but  its  appearance 
in  japanned  work  is  much  improved  by  glazing 
it  with  a  thin  coat  of  lake,  or  even  rose  pink. 
Or :    Take  spirits  of  turpentine,  i  pint ;  add 
cochineal,  \  ounce;  let  stand  15  hours,  and 
strain.    Add  to  the  transparent  varnish  (see 
No.  3025)  to  suit  the  fancy. 

3029.  To  Color  Japan  Yellow. 
King's  yellow,  turpeth  mineral  (subsulphate 
of  mercury),  and  Dutch  pink,  all  form  very 
bright  yellows,  and  the  latter  is  very  cheap. 
Seed  lac  varnish  assimilates  with  yellow  very 
well ;  and  when  they  are  required  verv  bright, 
an  improvement  may  be  effected  by  infusing 
turmeric  in  the  varnish  which  covers  the 
ground.  Or:  Take  1  ounce  of  pulverized  root 
of  curcuma  and  stir  of  it  into  1  pint  of  the 
transparent  varnish  (see  No.  3025)  until  the 
color  pleases  you ;  let  stand  a  few  hours,  and 
strain. 

3030  To  Color  Japan  Green.  Dis- 
tilled verdigris  laid  on  a  ground  of  leaf  gold 
produces  the  brightest  of  all  greens;  other 
greens  may  be  formed  by  mixing  King's  yel- 
low and  bright  Prussian  blue,  or  turpeth 
mineral  and  Prussian  blue,  or  Dutch  pink  and 
verdigris.  Mix  with  varnish.  (See  Nos.  3025 
and  1421.) 

3031.  To  Color  Japan  Orange.    Mix 
a  little  red  with  yellow  until  the  desired  color 
is  obtained;   and  add  to  transparent  japan. 
(See  No.  3025.) 

3032.  To  Color  Japan  White.    White 
grounds  are  obtained  with  greater  difficulty 
than  any  other.     One  of  the  bfist  is  prepared 
by  grinding  up    flock-white,   or  zinc-white, 
with  £  of  its  weight  of  starch,  and  drying  it ; 
it  is  then  tempered,  like  the  other  colors, 
using  the  mastich  varnish  for  common  uses ; 
and  that  of  the  best  copal  for  the  finest. 

3033.  To  Color  Japan  Pink.  Mix 
sufficient  red  (see  No.  2028)  with  transparent 
varnish  (see  No.  3025)  to  give  the  desired  tint 
of  pink. 

3034.  To  Color  Japan  Purple.  Mix 
red  and  blue  together,  and  add  to  the  varnish. 
(See  No.  3025.) 

3035.  To  Color  Japan  Violet.  A 
violet  japan  may  be  obtained  by  mixing 
purple  (see  No.  3034),  and  white  (see  No. 
3032),  with  transparent  japan  (see  No.  3025.) 

3036.  To  Color  Japan  Brown.  For 
brown  japanned  works,  the  clear  japan  alone 
is  used  as  the  ground,  or  umber  is  mixed  with 
the  japan  to  give  the  required  tint,  and  the 
work  is  afterwards  dried  in  the  oven,  in  the 
same  manner  as  black  japan. 

3037.  To  Japan  Old  Tea-Trays. 
First  clean  them  thoroughly  with  soap  and 
water  and  a  little  rotten-stone ;  then  dry 
them  by  wiping  and  exposure  at  the  fire. 
Now  get  some  good  copal  varnish,  mix  with 
it  some  bronze  powder,  and  apply  with  a 
brush  to  the  denuded  parts,  after  which  sei 
the  tea-tray  in  an  oven,  at  a  heat  of  212°  to 
300°,  until  the  varnish  is  dry.  Two  coats 
will  make  it  equal  to  new. 


India  Japanning.  The  great 
peculiarity  in  the  Indian  method  is 
he  embossing,  or  raising  the  figures,  &c., 
above  the  surface  or  ground,  and  the  metallic 
or  bronze-like  hue  of  the  several  designs ;  the 
grotesque  appearance  of  the  several  orna- 
nents,  whether  figures,  landscapes,  or  what- 
ever other  designs  they  are  embellished  with, 
jeing  so  totally  different  from  every  principle 
of  perspective,  and  so  opposite  to  every  idea 
we  have  of  correct  drawing.  JSTothing  but 
,he  study  of  Chinese  models  themselves  will 
enable  the  workmen  to  imitate,  with  any  de- 
gree of  precision,  their  several  characteristics. 

3039.  Ground  for  Chinese   Japan. 
Mix  any  quantity  of  the  finest  whiting  to  the 
consistency  of  paint,  with  isinglass  size  ;  lay 
on  your  wood  2  or  3  coats,  observing  to  put  it 
on  evenly  and  smoothly,  and  not  too  thick  ; 
.et  it  dry ;  then  rub  it  gently  with  a  soft  rag 
and  water  till  the  surface  is  quite  level  and 
polished;  if  a  small  portion  of  honey  is  added 
;o  the  mixture,  it  will  render  it  less  liable  to 
crack  or  peel  off.     If  the  ground  is  to   be 
jlack,  which  is  most  usual,  give  it  a  coat  or 
;wo  of  the  black  japan  mentioned  in  the  com- 
mon method  of  japanning  (see  No.  3022),  and 
it  is  prepared  for  the  figures,  (fee. 

3040.  Plaster   Ground  for   Chinese 
Japan.     Mix  fine  plaster  of  Paris  with  sizo 
not  too  thick,  and  apply  it  quickly,  for  it  soon 
srets  hard.    Two  coats,  in  most  instances,  will 
Be  sufficient.    After  it  is  quite  dry,  polish  it 
with  fine  glass  paper,  and  rub  it  with  a  wet 
soft  cloth ;  then  give  it  2  or  3  coats  of  drying 
linseed  oil,  or  as  much  as  it  will  soak  up. 
"When  dry,  it  is  ready  for  japanning. 

3041.  To   Trace   Designs   on  -tho 
Ground.      Having  drawn  the  figures  on   a 
piece  of  white  paper  either  with  ink  or  pencil, 
rub  the  back  of  it  with  fine  chalk  or  whiting, 
and  shake  all  the  loose  powder  off;  lay  it  on 
the  ground,  and  trace  or  go  over  every  part 
of  the  outline  with  the  end  of  a  blunt  bodkin, 
or  other  similar  instrument;    you  will  then 
have  a  sketch  in  faint  outline  on  your  ground. 
Then  proceed  to  put  in  the  figures,  &c.,  with 
any  desired  color,  or  bronze  them. 

3042.  To    Raise    Figures    on    the 
Work.     Prepare  a  mixture  of  whiting  and 
size  (some  prefer  the  whites  of  eggs),  of  a 
consistency  to  flow  freely  from  the  pencil, 
the  hairs  of  which  must  be  rather  long.     Be- 
gin with  a  figure,  or  other  part — but  do  not 
do  too  much  at  a  time — and  trace  the  outline 
correctly,  with  a  free  hand ;  then  take  a  piece 
of  stick  pointed  at  the  cud,  dip  it  into  the 
composition,  and  fill  up  the  inside  of  the  out- 
line.    Continue  to  put  more  of  tho  mixture 
on  till  it  is  raised  sufficiently  above  the  sur- 
face.    Let  it  got  quite  dry,  and  then  polish  it 
with  a  small  cauiel's-hair  pencil  and  clean 
water,  so  as  to  make  it  perfectly  smooth  and 
level.     Care  must  bo  taken  in  this  process, 
that  the  composition  is  not  too  thin,  or  it  will 
spread  beyond  tho  bounds  of  the  outline,  but 
just  so  thick  as  to  drop  from  the  stick.     Some 
mix  with  tho  whiting  a  portion  of  flake- white, 
or  dry  white-lead.     This  is  an  improvement, 
and    for    very    particular    work    should    be 
adopted. 

3043.  To    Japan  Wprk-Boxes  and 
Fancy  Articles.     There  is   a  very   pretty 
method  of  ornamenting  boxes,  cabinets,  &c., 


LA  CQUEBS. 


279 


so  that  the  figures  appear  of  the  color  of  the  j  to  keep  a  concentrated  solution  of  each  color- 
wood,  and  the  ground  black  or  colored ;  this,  ing  ingredient  ready,  so  that  it  may  at  any 
by  many,  is  produced  by  first  tracing  out  the  j  time  be  added  to  produce  any  desired  tint, 
pattern,  and  then  pricking  in  those  parts  i  Lacquer  should  always  stand  till  it  is  quite 
which  shall  appear  as  the  ground,  cither  ^~~  •— *— *Al 


black  or  any  color  at  fancy.  This  is  a  very 
tedious  process,  and  even  when  finished  with 
the  greatest  care,  will  not  appear  regular  or 
well  defined  in  the  pattern.  The  following 
method  will  be  found  very  expeditious,  and 
at  the  same  time  very  correct ;  it  is  but  little 
known,  and,  as  such,  will  to  the  practical 
japanner  be  the  more  acceptable.  It  may 
also  be  applied  to  many  other  purposes  than 
here  alluded  to.  The  following  preparation 
is  necessary,  and  may  be  termed  the  stopping 
out  mixture ;  it  is  made  by  dissolving  the 
best  white  bees'  wax  in  spirits  of  turpentine 
till  it  is  of  the  consistency  of  varnish.  Keep 
this  mixture  in  a  bottle,  and,  when  wanted 
for  use,  mix  sufficient  for  your  present  pur- 
pose with  white  lead  in  powder,  or  flake 
white,  to  give  it  a  body — but  not  too  thick, 
only  so  that  it  will  flow  freely  from  the  brush. 
Having  traced  the  design,  go  over  those 
parts  which  are  to  remain  of  the  color  of  the 
wood,  and  let  it  dry;  then  mix  ivory-black 
(or  other  color  as  may  be  required),  in  very 
fine  powder,  with  parchment  or  isinglass  size, 
and  go  evenly  and  smoothly  over  every  part 
of  the  work.  It  will  now  appear  wholly 
black,  or  of  whatever  color  that  was  mixed 
with  the  size.  Let  the  whole  get  thoroughly 
dry ;  then,  with  a  stiff  brush  dipped  in  plain 


spirits  of  turpentine,  rub  the  whole  of  the   strong  to  take  off  the  dirt ;  wash  it  afterwards 


work  well,  and  those  parts  that  have  been 
gone  over  with  the  stopping-out  mixture, 
will  come  off,  leaving  tha  black  or  other  color 
perfect.  It  will  then  appear  as  if  the  work 
had  been  pricked  in,  but  much  sharper,  and 
will,  if  carefully  done,  have  a  beautiful  effect. 
You  have  now  nothing  more  to  do  than  var- 
nish the  work,  as  usual,  and  polish  it  as 
directed  in  K"os.  2979,  &c.  To  finish  the  work 
in  the  manner  of  Indian  japan,  give  it  8  or 
10  coats  of  varnish,  so  that  it  will  bear  pol- 


ishing. 
3044. 


Sealing- Wax   Varnish.      For 


fancy  work,  this  has  of  late  years  been  much 
used,  and,  if  well  applied  and  the  wax  good, 
will  be  a  very  good  imitation  of  India  japan. 
The  method  of  making  the  varnish  or  japan 
is  very  easy,  being  simply  reducing  the  wax 
to  a  coarse  powder,  and  pouring  the  best 
spirits  of  wine  on  it  in  a  bottle,  and  letting  it 
gradually  dissolve  without  heat,  shaking  the 
bottle  occasionally  till  it  is  all  dissolved.  A 
2  ounce  stick  of  the  best  wax  will  be  enough 
for  i  pint  of  spirits.  Much  depends  on  the 
goodness  of  the  sealing-wax,  and  the  color  of 
the  varnish  may  be  varied  by  using  different- 
ly colored  wax.  The  finest  vermilion  seal- 
ing-wax makes  the  best  varnish,  the  other 
colors  not  flowing  quite  as  well ;  white  seal- 
ing-wax is  very  apt  to  clot  when  drying.  As 
this  varnish  dries  very  quickly,  it  should  not 
be  made  until  it  is  wanted  for  use. 


£LCCJ/U6rS.  Lacquers  are  used  upon 
polished  metals  and  wood  to  impart  the 
appearance  of  gold.  As  they  are  wanted  of 
different  depths  and  shades  of  color,  it  is.  best 


fine,  before  it  is  used. 

3046.  To  Lacquer  Brass  Work.      If 

the  work  is  old,  clean  it  first,  according  to  the 
directions  hereafter  given ;  but  if  new,  it  will 
merely  require  to  be  freed  from  dust,  and 
rubbed  with  a  piece  of  wash-leather,  to  make 
it  as  bright  as  possible.  Put  the  work  on  a 
hot  iron  plate  (or  upon  the  top  of  the  stove), 
till  it  is  moderately  heated,  but  not  too  hot, 
or  it  will  blister  the  lacquer;  then,  according 
to  the  color  desired,  take  of  the  following 
preparations,  and,  making  it  warm,  lay  hold 
of  the  work  with  a  pair  of  pincers  or  "pliers, 
and  with  a  soft  brush  apply  the  lacquer,  being 
careful  not  to  rub  it  on,  but  stroke  the  brush 
gently  one  way,  and  place  the  work  on  the 
hot  plate  again  till  the  varnish  is  hard ;  but 
do  not  let  it  remain  too  long.  Experience 
will  best  tell  you  when  it  should  be  removed. 
Some,  indeed,  do  not  place  it  on  the  stove  or 
plate  a  second  time.  If  it  should  not  be  quite 
covered,  you  may  repeat  it  carefully ;  and,  if 
pains  be  taken  with  the  lacquer,  it  will  look 
equal  to  metal  gilt. 

3047.  To  Clean  Old  Brass  Work  for 


Lacquering 

ashes,  whicl 


Make  a  strong  lye  of  wood- 
may  be  strengthened  by  soap- 


lees;  put  in  the  brass- work,  and  the  lacquer 
will  soon  come  off;  then  have  ready  a  mix- 
ture of  aquafortis  and  water,  sufficiently 


in  clean  water,  and  lacquer  it  with  such  of 
the  following  compositions  as  may  be  most 
suitable  to  the  work. 

3048.  To   Make  Gold   Lacquer  for 
Brass.     Rectified  spirits  of  wine,  -j-  pint; 
mix  •&  pound  of  seed-lac,  picked  clean,  and 
clear  of  all  pieces  (as  upon  that  depends  the 
beauty  of  the  lacquer)  with  the   spirits  of 
wine ;  keep  them  in  a  warm  place,  and  shake 
them  repeatedly.    When  the  seed-lac  is  quite 
dissolved,  it  is  fit  for  use. 

3049.  Gold  Lacquer.     Put  into  a  clean 
four  gallon  tin,  1  pound  ground  turmeric,  1$ 
ounces  powdered  gamboge,  3£  ounces  pow- 
dered gum-sandarach,  i  pound  shellac,  and  2 
gallons  spirits  of  wine. '  After  being  agitated, 
dissolved,  and  strained,  add  1  pint  of  turpen- 
tine varnish,  well  mixed. 

3050.  Gold  Colored  Lacquer  for 
Watch  Keys,  Etc.  Seed-lac,  6  ounces; 
amber,  2  ounces ;  gamboge,  2  ounces ;  extract 
of  red  sandal  wood  in  water,  24  grains ;  dra- 
gon's blood,  GO  grains;  oriental  saffron,  36 
grains;  pounded  glass,  4  ounces;  pure  alco- 
hol, 36  ounces.  The  seed-lac,  amber,  gam- 
boge, and  dragon's  blood  must  be  pounded 
very  fine  on  porphyry  or  clean  marble,  and 
mixed  with  the  pounded  glass.  Over  this 
mixture  is  poured  the  tincture  formed  by  in- 
fusing the  saffron  and  the  extract  of  sandal 
wood  in  the  alcohol  for  24  hours.  Metal  ar- 
ticles that  are  to  be  covered  with  this  varnish 
are  heated,  and,  if  they  are  of  a  kind  to  admit 
of  it,  are  immersed  in  packets.  The  tint  of 
the  varnish  may  bo  varied  in  any  degree  re- 
quired, by  altering  the  proportions  of  the  col- 
oring quantities  according  to  circumstances. 
3051.  Deep  Gold  Lacquer.  Seed-lac,  3 
ounces ;  turmeric,  1  ounce ;  dragon's  blood,  J 


280 


LA  CQUERS. 


ounce;  alcohol,  1  pint.  Digest  for  a  week, 
frequently  shaking,  decant  and  filter.  Deep 
gold  colored. 

3052.  Dark  Gold  Colored  Lacquer. 
Strongest  alcohol,  4  ounces ;  Spanish  annotto, 
8  grains ;  powdered  turmeric,  2  drachms ;  red 
saunders,  12  grains.     Infuse  and  add  shellac, 
etc.,  as  to  the  pale  tin  lacquer  (see  No.  3058), 
and  when  dissolved  add  30  drops  of  spirits  of 
turpentine. 

3053.  Gold  Lacquer.    Ground  turmeric, 
1  pound ;   gamboge,  1£  ounces ;   gum   sand- 
arach,  3&  pounds  ;  shellac  £  pound ;  all  in  pow- 
der;  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  2  gallons.     Dis- 
solve, strain,   and  add  turpentine  varnish,  1 
pint. 

3054.  Brass  Lacquer.     Take  8  ounces 
shellac,  2  ounces  sandarach,  2  ounces  annotto, 
i  ounce  dragon's  blood  resin,   1   gallon    of 
spirits  of  wine.     The  article  to  be  lacquered 
should  be  heated  slightly,   and  the  lacquer 
applied  by  means  of  a  soft  camel's-hair  brush. 

3055.  Pale   Brass  Lacquer.     Take  2 
gallons  spirits  of  wine,  3  ounces  cape  aloes 
cut  small,  1  pound  fine  pale  shellac,  1  ounce 
gamboge  cut  small.       Digest   for   a  week, 
shake  frequently,  decant  and  filter. 

3056.  Lacquer  for  Bronzed  Dipped 
Work.     A  lacquer  for  bronzed  dipped  work 
may  be  made  thus :  Alcohol,  12  gallons ;  seed- 
lac,  9  pounds ;  turmeric,  1  pound  to  the  gal- 
lon ;  Spanish  saffron,  4  ounces.     The  saffron 
may  be  omitted  if  the  lacquer  is  to  be  very 
light. 

3057.  Lacquer  for  Tin  Plate.    Best 
alcohol,  8  ounces ;  turmeric,  4  drachms ;  hay 
saffron,  2  scruples;  dragon's  blood,  4  scru- 
ples;   red    saunders,   1    scruple;    shellac,   1 
ounce;    gum    sandarach,  2    drachms;    gum 
mastich,    2    drachms;    Canada    balsam,     2 
drachms ;  when  dissolved,  add  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine, 80  drops. 

3058.  Pale  Tin  Lacquer.     Strongest 
alcohol,    4    ounces;     powdered    turmeric,    2 
drachms;    hay  saffron,   1   scruple;    dragon's 
blood  in  powder,  2  scruples;  red  sanders,  i 
scruple.    Infuse  this  mixture  in  the  cold  for 
48  hours,  pour  off  the  clear,  and  strain  the 
rest;   then  add  powdered  shellac,  ^  ounce; 
sandarach,   1  drachm;    mastich,   1  drachm; 
Canada  balsam,  1  drachm.     Dissolve  this  in 
the  cold  by  frequent  agitation,   laying  the 
bottle  on  its  side,  to  present  a  greater  surface 
to  the  alcohol.     When  dissolved,  add  40  drops 
of  spirits  of  turpentine. 

3059.  Iron  Lacquer.      Take  12  parts 
amber,  12  parts  turpentine,  2  parts  resin,  2 
parts  asphaltum,  6  parts  drying  oil.     Or,  3 
pounds  asphaltum,  h  pound  shellac,  1  gallon 
turpentine. 

3060.  Bed  Lacquer.     Take  2  gallons 
spirits  of  wine,   1   pound  dragon's   blood,  3 
pounds  Spanish  annotto,  44  pounds  gum  san- 
darach, 2  pints  turpentine.     Made  as  pale  brass 
lacquer. 

3061.  Red  Lacquer.     Spanish  annotto, 
3  pounds;   dragon's   blood,   1   pound;    gum 
sandarach,  3£  pounds;  rectified  spirit,  2  gal- 
lons; turpentine  varnish,  1  quart.  Dissolve  and 
mix  as  the  last. 

3062.  Lacquer  for  Philosophical  In- 
struments.    Gamboge,  li  ounces;  gum  san- 
darach, 4  ounces;  gum  elemi,  4  ounces;  best 
dragon's  blood,  2  ounces;   terra  merita,  1£ 


ounces;  oriental  saffron,  -1  grains;  seed-lac, 
2  ounces ;  pounded  glass,  G  ounces ;  pure  al- 
cohol, forty  ounces.  The  dragon's  blood,  gurn 
elemi,  seed-lac,  and  gamboge,  are  all  pounded 
and  mixed  with  the  glass.  Over  them  is 
poured  tho  tincture  obtained  by  infusing  the 
saffron  and  terra  merita  in  tho  alcohol  for  24 
hours.  This  tincture,  before  being  poured 
over  tho  dragon's  blood,  etc.,  should  bo  strain- 
ed through  a  piece  of  clean  linen  cloth,  and 
strongly  squeezed.  If  tho  dragon's  blood 
gives  too  high  a  color,  the  quantity  may  be 
lessened  according  to  circumstances.  *Tho 
same  is  tho  case  with  tho  other  coloring  mat- 
ters. In  choosing  the  terra  merita,  select 
that  which  is  sound  and  compact.  This  lac- 
quer has  a  very  good  effect  when  applied  to 
many  cast  or  moulded  articles  used  iu  orna- 
menting furniture,  tho  irregularity  of  surface 
of  which  would  render  it  difficult,  if  not  im- 
possible, to  polish  in  tho  ordinary  manner. 

3063.  To  Make  Lacquer'  of  Various 
Tints.      Put  4   ounces   best  gum   gamboge 
into  32  ounces  spirits  oi  turpentine ;  4  ounces 
dragon's    blood    into  the  same   quantity    of 
spirits  of  turpentine  as  the  gamboge,  and  1 
ounce   annotto  into   8  ounces  of   the   same 
spirits.     Tho  3  mixtures  should  be  made  in 
different  vessels.     They  should  then  be  kept 
for  about  two  weeks  in  a  warm  place,  and  as 
much  exposed  to  tho  sun  as  possible.     At  the 
end  of  that  time  they  will  be  fit  for  use  ;  and 
any  desired  tints  may  be  obtained  by  making 
a  composition  from  them,  with  such  propor- 
tions of  each  liquor  as  tho  nature  of  the  color 
desired  will  point  out. 

3064.  Durable  and  Lustrous  Black 
Coating'  for   Metals.      The  bottom    of  a 
cylindrical  iron  pot,  which  should  be  about 
18  inches  in  height,  is  covered  half  an  inch 
with  powdered  bituminous  coal;   a  grate  is 
then  put  in  and  tho  pot  filled  with  the  articles 
to  be  varnished.     Articles  of  cast  iron,  iron 
wire,  brass,  zinc,  steel,  tinned  iron,  &c.,  may 
be  subjected  to  the   same  treatment.     The 
cover  is  then  put  on  and  the  pot  heated  over 
a  coke  fire  under  a  well-drawing  chimney. 
In  the  beginning  the  moisture  only  evaporates, 
but  soon  the  coking  commences,  and  deep 
brown  vapors  escape,  which  irritate  the  throat. 
"When  the  bottom  of  the  pot  has  been  heated 
for  15  minutes  to  a  dull  red  heat,  the  coal  has 
been  mostly  converted  into  coke ;  the  pot  ia 
then  removed  from  tho  fire,  and  after  standing 
10  minutes  opened  for  evaporation,  all    the 
articles  will  be  found  covered  with  tho  above 
described  coating.     This  lacquer  is  not  cnly 
a  protection  against  oxidation  of  metals,  but 
will  stand  also  a  considerable  heat,  only  dis- 
appearing at  beginning  redness,  and  therefore 
its  useful  application  for  ovens  and  furnaces. 
The  coating  produced  is  thin,  lustrous,  and 
cannot  easily  be  scratched.     Fine  iron  ware 
articles,  such  as  sieves,  are  in  this  manner 
coated  with  remarkable  evenness,  which  can- 
not be  accomplished  in  any  other  way.     Ar- 
ticles made  of  tin,  or  soldered,  cannot  bo  sub- 
jected to  this  process,   as  they  would  fuse. 
Smaller  articles,  like  hooks  and  eyes,  receive 
this  coating  by  heating  them  together  with 
small  pieces  of  bituminous  coal  in  a  cylindrical 
sheet  iron  drum  like  that  used  for  roasting 
coffee,  until  they  present  tho  desired  lustrous 
black  appearance. 


PRESERVATION   OF   LEATHER. 


281 


Preservation  of  Leather. 
The  extreme  heat  to  which  most  men 
and  women  expose  boots  and  shoes  during 
winter  deprives  leather  of  its  vitality,  render- 
ing it  liable  to  break  and  crack.  Patent 
leather  particularly  is  often  destroyed  in  this 
manner.  "When  leather  becomes  so  warm 
as  to  give  off  the  smell  of  leather,  it  is 
singed.  Next  to  the  singeing  caused  by  fire 
heat,  is  the  heat  and  dampness  caused  by  the 
covering  of  rubber.  Close  rubber  shoes  de- 
stroy the  strength  of  leather.  The  practice 
of  washing  harness  in  warm  water  and  with 
soap  is  very  damaging.  If  a  coat  of  oil  is  put 
011  immediately  after  washhig,  the  damage  is 
repaired.  No  harness  is  ever  so  soiled  that  a 
damp  sponge  will  not  remove  the  dirt ;  but, 
even  whemthe  sponge  is  applied,  it  is  always 
useful  to  add  a  slight  coat  of  oil  by  the  use  of 
another  sponge.  All  varnishes,  and  all  black- 
ing containing  the  properties  of  varnish  should 
be  avoided.  Ignorant  and  indolent  hostlers 
are  apt  to  use  such  substances  on  their  har- 
ness as  will  give  the  most  immediate  effect, 
and  these,  as  a  general  thing,  are  most  de- 
structive to  the  leather. 

3066.  To  Restore  the  Lustre  of 
Leather.  When  harness  loses  its  lustre  and 
turns  brown,  which  almost  any  leather  will 
do  after  long  exposure  to  the  air,  the  harness 
should  be  given  a  new  coat  of  grain  black. 
Before  using  this  grain  black,  the  grain  sur- 
face should  be  well  washed  with  potash  wa- 
ter until  all  the  grease  is  killed,  and  after  the 
application  of  the  grain  black,  oil  and  tallow 
should  be  applied  to  the  surface.  This  will 
not  only  fasten  the  color,  but  make  the 
leather  flexible.  Harness  which  is  grained 
can  be  cleaned  with  kerosene  or  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine. 

3067.  To  Restore  Softness  to  Leather. 
To  restore  the  softness  and  pliancy  of  leather 
which  has  become  hard  by  having  been  wet, 
apply  neat's  foot  oil  and  rub  it  in.  Castor  oil 
is  a  good  substitute  for  neat's  foot  oil  for  soft- 
ening leather  belts,  boots  and  harness.  But 
the  best  oil  for  harness,  is  1  quart  neat's  foot 
oli,  4  ounces  beefs  tallow,  and  3  table-spoon- 
fuls lampblack ;  add  4  ounces  bees'  wax  for 
use  in  summer  weather. 

3088.  To  Restore  the  Lustre  of  Mo- 
rocco. The  lustre  of  Morocco  is  restored  by 
a  varnishing  with  the  white  of  an  egg.  Apply 
with  a  sponge. 

3069.  To  Make  Boots    Waterproof. 
Beef  tallow,  4  ouuces;  resin,  1  ounce;  bees' 
wax,   1   ounce;   melt  together.     Add,  when 
cold,  a  quantity  of  neat's  foot  oil  equal  to  the 
mass.     Apply  with  a  rag,  warming  the  boots 
before  a  fire,  to  the  soles  as  well  as  tippers, 
and  rub  in  well  with  the  hand.     Two  applica- 
tions will  make  the  boots  thoroughly  water- 
proof and  still  keep  them  soft.     We,  however, 
do  not  approve  of  such  preparations,  as  the 
feet  generally  perspire  more  than  any  other 
portions   of  the   body,   and   any  waterproof 
preparations   applied   to    boots    prevent  the 
perspiration  from  escaping,  and  keep  the  feet 
wet  and  cold.     The  New  England  fishermen 
preserve  their  boots  waterproof  by  this  meth- 
od, which,  it  is  said,  has  been  in  use  among 
them  above  100  vears. 

3070.  To  Make  Boots  Water-Tight. 
In  a  pint  of  best  winter-strained  lard  oil,  dis- 


solve a  piece  of  paraffiiie  the  size  of  a  hickory 
nut,  aiding  the  solution  with  a  gentle  heat, 
say  130°  or  140°  Fahr.  The  readiest  way  to 
get  pure  paraffine  is  to  take  a  piece  of  paraffine 
candle.  Rub  this  solution  on  your  boots 
about  once  a  mouth  ;  they  can  be  blacked  in 
the  meantime.  If  the  oil  should  make  the 
leather  too  stiff,  decrease  the  proportion  of 
paraffine,  and  vice  versa.  "A  gentleman  who 
has  tried  this  says : — I  have  used  this  for  8 
years  past,  and  boots  have  lasted  me  two 
winters,  the  uppers  always  remaining  soft, 
and  never  cracking.  I  have  tried  bees'  wax, 
resin,  tar,  etc.,  but  never  found  any  other  pre- 
paration half  so  good. 

3071.  Sportsmen's  Waterproof  Com- 
position for  Boots.  Dissolve  by  heat  1 
ounce  pure  bottle  India-rubber  shavings  in  1 
quart  neat's  foot  oil,  and  add  2  ounces  tallow. 
This  makes  a  fine  waterproof  composition 
for  boots,  and  is  recommended  to  sportsmen. 

3072.  Polish   for   Patent   Leather 
Goods.     Take  5  pound  molasses  or  sugar,  1 
ounce  gum-arabic,  and  2  pounds  ivory  black ; 
boil  them  well  together,  then  let  the  vessel 
stand  until  quite  cooled,  and  the  contents  are 
settled;   after  which,  bottle  off'.     This  is  an 
excellent  reviver,  and  may  be  used  as  a  black- 
ing in  the  ordinary  way,  no  brushes  for  polish- 
ing being  required. 

3073.  Glycerine    Composition    for 
Leather.     As  is  well  known,  glycerine  has 
found  extensive  application  in  tanning,  as  it 
has  been  discovered  that  it  adds  materially  to 
the  elasticity  and  strength  of  the  leather. 
Especially  has  it  been  found  of  great  value  in 
protecting  leather  bands  of  machinery  from 
cracking  and  drying.     The  partially  tanned 
leather  is  immersed  for  considerable  time  in 
a  bath  of  glycerine,  by  which  the  pores  are 
filled  and  such  an  elasticity  and  softness  is 
imparted  that  objects  manufactured  from  it 
are  much  less  liable  to  break.     In  order  to 
prepare  a  neutral  gutta-percha  composition 
with  glycerine,  take  3  to  4  pounds  lampblack, 
\  pound  burnt  bones  (burnt  ivory),  cover  up 
in  a  suitable  vessel  with  5  pounds  glycerine 
and  5  pounds  common  syrup,  and  stir  well 
until  the  whole  is  intimately  mixed  and  free 
from  lumps.     4  or  5  ounces  of  gutta-percha, 
finely  cut,  are  to  be  put  into  a  kettle,  and 
after  melting  must  be  mixed  with  20  ounces 
of  sweet  oil  and  dissolved,  and  2  ounces  of 
stearine  added.     "WhiJe  still  warm  the  gutta- 
percha   solution  must  be  incorporated  with 
the  syrup  and  lampblack,  and  after  this  is 
done,  10  ounces  of  Senegal  gum  dissolved  in 
li  pounds  of  water  is  also  added.    In  order 
to  impart  an  agreeable  odor  to  the  mass  a 
small  quantity  of  rosemary  or  lavender  oil 
may  be  introduced.     In  using,  the  glycerine 
gutta-percha  paste  must  be  diluted  with  3  or 
4  parts  of  water.     It  gives  a  fine  lustre,  and, 
as  it  contains  no  acid,  it  does  not  injure  the 
leather,  but  makes  it  soft  and  elastic  and  adds 
very  much  to  its  durability. 

3074.  To  Preserve 'and  Clean  Har- 
ness. In  the  first  place,  subject  the  harness 
to  1  or  2  coats  (as  the  leather  may  need)  of 
lampblack  and  castor  oil,  warmed  sufficient- 
ly to  make  it  penetrate  the  leather  readily. 
Then  make  about  2  quarts  of  warm  soap-suds, 
and  with  a  spouge  wash  the  harness.  "When 
dry,  rub  it  over  with  a  mixture  of  oil  and  tal- 


BOOT  AND    SHOE    BLACKING. 


low,  equal  parts,  with  sufficient  lampblack  to 
give  it  color ;  or,  what  is  better,  Prussian  blue, 
which  gives  it  a  new  and  fresh  look.  This 
compound  should  be  applied  sparingly  and 
well  rubbed  in,  which  can  be  quickly  done 
and  will  leave  a  smooth  and  clean  surface. 

3075.  Harness  Polish.    Take  2  ounces 
mutton  suet,  6  ounces  bees'  wax,  6  ounces 
powdered  sugar  candy,  2  ounces  soft  soap,  and 
1  ounce  indigo  or  lampblack.    Dissolve  the 
soap  in  J  pint  of  water ;  then  add  the  other 
ingredients;   melt  and  mix  together;  add  a 
gill  of  turpentine.     Lay  it  on  the   harness 
with  a  sponge,  and  polish  off  with  a  brush. 

3076.  To  Clean  Leather.     Uncolored 
leather  may  be  cleaned  by  applying  a  solution 
of  oxalic  acid  with  a  sponge.     Dissolve  in 
warm  water. 

3077.  To  Take  Oil  Out  of  Leather. 
Use  strong    (F.  F.    F.  F.)    aqua   ammonia, 
which  will  take  oil  out  without  injury  to  the 
leather.    It  must  be  used  2  or  3  times  in 
order  to  get  it  all  out.    First  use  it  and  let  the 
leather  stand  until  more  comes  out,  and  ap- 
ply again.     This  is  the  only  thing  that  will 
take  it  out  and  not  hurt  the  leather. 

3078.  Dubbing  for  Leather.    Mix  2 
pounds  black  resin,  1  pound  tallow  with  1 
gallon  train  oil. 

3079.  Jet  ^or  Harness  and  Boots. 
Dissolve  3  sticks  of  the  best  black  sealing- 
wax  in  ^  pint   spirits  of  wine ;    keep  in  a 
glass  bottle,  and  shake  well  previous  to  use. 
Applied  with  a  soft  sponge.     This  gives  the 
leather  a  fine  black  surface,  which,  however, 
is  apt  to  crack  more  or  less. 

3080.  Shoemakers'  Black.    A  solu- 
tion of  green  copperas  (sulphate  of  iron)  in 
about  12  times  its  weight  in  water.    It  is 
used  to  black  leather  which  has  been  tanned 
with  bark  or  other  astringent  matter,  and  to 
the  edges  of  the  soles  etc.,  with  a  feather  or 
brush. 

3081.  Harness     Liquid     Blacking. 
Dissolve  by  heat,  4  ounces  glue  or  gelatine 
and  3  ounces  gum  arabic  in  f  pint  water ;  add 
7  ounces  molasses  and  5  ounces  ivory  black  in 
very  fine  powder ;  gently  evaporate  until  of  a 
proper  consistence  when  cold,  stirring  all  the 
time.    Keep  in  corked  bottles. 

3082.  Harness    Waterproof    Paste 
Blacking.      Melt  together  2  ounces  mutton 
suet  and  6  ounces  bees'  wax;  add  6  ounces 
sugar  candy,  2  ounces  soft  soap,  24  ounces 
lampblack,  and  i  ounce  indigo  in  fine  pow- 
der; when  thoroughly  mixed  add  i  pint  of 
oil  of  turpentine ;  put  into  pots  or  tins. 

3083.  Harness     Waterproof    Cake 
Blacking.     Melt  1  pound  bees'  wax,  1  ounce 
Prussian  blue  ground  in  2  ounces  linseed  oil, 
i  pound  ivory  black,  3  ounces  oil  of  turpen- 
tine and  1  ounce  copal  varnish ;  mix  well  to- 
gether and  form  into  cakes  whilst  warm. 

3084.  Harness  Waterproof  Blacking. 
Mix  the  same  ingredients  as  in  the  last  re- 
ceipt, and  while  hot  add  4  ounces  soft  soap 
and  6  ounces  more  oil  of  turpentine ;  put  the 
paste  into  pots  or  tins.    None  of  the  above 
blackings  will  injure  the  leather. 

3085.  To  Apply  Harness  Blacking. 
Spread  a  very  little  of  the  blacking  evenly  on 
the  surface  of  the  leather,  and  polish  by  gen- 
tle friction  with  a  brush  or  an  old  handker- 
chief.   Paste  blacking  is  thinned  with  water. 


Boot  and  Shoe  Blacking. 
The  manipulations  required  for  paste 
and  liquid  blacking  are  the  same,  the  differ- 
ence in  the  two  being  the  quantity  of  liquid 
added.  Thus,  by  diluting  paste  blacking 
with  water  or  beer  bottoms,  it  may  be  con- 
verted into  liquid  blacking  of  a  similar  quality, 
and,  by  using  less  fluid  matter,  the  ingredients 
of  liquid  blacking  will  produce  paste  blacking. 
One  thing  must,  however,  be  observed,  and 
that  is,  that  the  ivory-black  used  for  liquid 
blacking  must  be  reduced  to  a  much  finer 
powder  than  for  paste  blacking,  as,  if  this  be 
not  attended  too,.it  will  settle  to  the  bottom, 
and  be  with  difficulty  diffused  again  through 
the  liquid.  For  those  persons  who  do  not 
like  the  use  of  blacking  containing  oil  of 
vitriol,  the  first  of  the  forms  gi^fen  below, 
either  for  paste  or  liquid,  may  be  adopted. 
The  vitriol,  however,  greatly  contributes  to 
promote  the  shining  properties  of  the  black- 
ing, and  in  small  quantities  is  not  so  injurious 
to  the  leather  as  has  been  falsely  represented, 
as  it  wholly  unites  itself  to  the  lime  of  the 
phosphate  contained  in  the  ivory-black,  and 
is  thus  partly  neutralized.  This  is  the  reason 
why  lampblack  should  never  be  employed 
for  blacking,  as  it  has  no  earthy  base  to  ab- 
sorb or  neutralize  the  acid,  which  would  then 
prove  very  hurtful  to  the  leather.  Oil  of 
vitriol  is  now  employed  in  the  manufacture  of 
all  the  most  celebrated  shining  blackings. 
The  addition  of  white  of  eggs,  isinglass,  gum- 
arabic,  and  similar  articles  to  blacking,  always 
proves  injurious,  as  they  tend  to  stiffen  the 
leather  and  to  make  it  crack. 

3087.  Liquid  Blacking.     Ivory-black, 
in  fine  powder,  1  pound  ;  molasses,  f  po'und ; 
sweet  oil,  2  ounces ;  beer  and  vinegar,  of  each 
1  pint.     Kub  together  the  first  three  until  the 
oil  be  perfectly  killed,  then  add  the  beer  and 
vinegar. 

3088.  Fine  Liquid  Blacking.     Ivory- 
black  and  molasses,  of  each  1  pound ;  sweet 
oil  and  oil  of  vitriol,  of  each  £  pound.     Mix 
the  first  three  as  before,  then  gradually  add 
the  vitriol,  diluted  with  thrice  its  weight  of 
water;  mix  well,  and  let  it  stand  for  3  hours, 
when  it  may  be  reduced  to  a  proper  consist- 
ence with  water  or  sour  beer. 

3089.  Liquid  Jet  Blacking.      Ivory- 
black  and  molasses,  of  each  J  pound ;  oil  of 
vitriol,  1  ounce ;    sweet  oil,  2  ounces ;   sour 
beer,  1  pint ;  finish  as  last  receipt. 

3090.  Good  Liquid  Blacking.     Ivory- 
black,  7  pounds ;  molasses,  6  pounds ;  sweet 
oil,  1  pound ;  oil  of  vitriol,  £  pound ;  sufficient 
water;   finish  as  in  Isro.  3088. 

3091.  Liquid  Blacking.     Ivory-black, 
3  cwt. ;  crude  molasses,  2  cwt.  ;  linseed  oil, 
3  gallons ;  oil  of  vitriol,  20  pounds ;  sufficient 
water  to  finish  as  in  No.  3088. 

3092.  Bryant  and  James'  Patent 
Liquid  Blacking.  18  ounces  caoutchouc- 
are  to  be  dissolved  in  about  9  pounds  hot 
rape  oil.  To  this  solution  60  pounds  of  fine 
ivory-black  and  45  pounds  molasses  are  to  be 
added,  along  with  1  pound  finely -ground 
gum-arabic,  previously  dissolved  in  20  gallons 
vinegar.  These  mixed  ingredients  are  to  be 
finely  triturated  in  a  paint-mill  till  the  mix- 

j  ture  becomes  perfectly  smooth.  To  this 
varnish  12  pounds  sulphuric  acid  are  to  be 

'  now  added  in  small    successive    quantities, 


METHOD    OF   MARBLING    BOOKS. 


283 


with  powerful  stirring  for  half  an  hour ;  a 
the  end  of  which  time  3  pounds  of  finely 
ground  gum-arabic  are  added ;  after  whici 
the  stirring  is  repeated  half  an  hour  ever 
day  for  14  days  longer,  when  the  liquid  black 
ing  is  ready  for  use. 

3093.  Paste  Blacking1.  Molasses, 
pound ;  ivory-black,  1£  pounds ;  sweet  oil,  $ 
ounces ;  rub  together  as  before  (see  No.  3088) 
then  add  a  little  lemon  juice  or  strong  vine 
gar. 

3094.  Brilliant  Paste  Blacking 
Ivory-black,  2  pounds;  molasses,  1  pound 
olive  oil  and  oil  of  vitriol,  of  each  J  pound 
sufficient  water,  as  before. 

3095.  Fine  Paste  Blacking.  Ivory 
black,  28  pounds;  molasses,  21  pounds 
common  oil,  1  quart;  oil  of  vitriol,  3  pounds 
sufficient  water,  as  before. 

3096.  Fine   Oil    Paste    Blacking 
Ivory-black,    3    cwt. ;    common  molasses,   2 
cwt. ;    linseed   oil  and  vinegar  bottoms,   o 
each  3   gallons  ;    oil  of   vitriol,  28  pounds 
sufficient  water,  mix  as  before. 

3097.  Oil    Paste  Blacking.     Ivory 
black,  2  pounds ;    molasses,  4  or  5  ounces 
oil  of  vitriol,  2  ounces ;  tanners'  oil,  5  ounces 
(if  this  cannot  be  obtained,  then  use  4  ounces 
best  tallow) ;  gum-arabic,  1  ounce.    Mix  the 

011  and  vitriol  together,  and  let  it  stand  24 
hours ;  dissolve  the  gum  in  a  cupful  of  warm 
water;    then  add  3  table-spoonfuls  of  best 
vinegar;    heat  it  and  mix  with  the  oil,  &c., 
and  then  add  the  ivory-black,  molasses,  and 
white  of  2  eggs. 

3098.  Real  Japan  Paste  Blacking. 
Take  3  ounces  ivory-black,  2  ounces  coarse 
sugar,  1  ounce  sulphuric  acid,  1  ounce  muri- 
atic acid,  1  lemon,  1  table-spoonful  sweet  oil, 
and  1  pint  vinegar.     First  mix  the  ivory- 
black  and  sweet  oil  together,  then  the  lemon 
and  sugar,  with  a  little  vinegar  to  qualify  the 
blacking ;  then  add  the  sulphuric  and  muri- 
atic acids,  and  mix  them  all  well  together. 
The  sugar,  oil,  and  vinegar,  prevent  the  acids 
from  injuring  the  leather,   and  add  to  the 
lustre  of  the  blacking. 

3099.  Bryant  and  James'  Patent  Paste 
Blacking.     In  making  the  paste  blacking, 
the  patentees  prescribe  the  same  quantity  of 
India-rubber  oil,   ivory-black,  molasses,  and 
gum-arabic  as  in  their  liquid  blacking,  the 
latter  being  dissolved  in  only  12  pounds  vine- 
gar.    These  ingredients  are  to  be  well  mixed, 
and  then  ground  together  in  a  mill  till  they 
form  a  perfectly  smooth  paste.     To  this  paste 

12  pounds  sulphuric  acid  are  to  be  added  in 
small  quantities  at  a  time,   with    powerful 
stirring,  which  is  to  be  continued  k  hour  after 
the  last  portion  of  the  acid  has  been  intro- 
duced.    Ready  for  use  in  7  days. 

3100.  New    Blacking.     The  lustrous 
qualities  of  blacking  are  frequently  derived 
from  ingredients  which  are  most  deleterious 
and    destructive    to    leather.      Herr    Artus 
publishes  a  new  formula,  and  claims  several 
advantages  for  it,  to  which  we  may  add  its 
cheapness  and  accessibility.    3  or  4  pounds 
vegetable    black,   1£    pounds  ivory-black,  5 
pounds   molasses,   and    5  pounds  glycerine, 
mixed  thoroughly  together.    6  ounces  gutta- 
percha,  cut  in  small  pieces,  are  then  melted, 
and  when  fluid,  20  ounces  olive  oil  are  added, 
and  subsequently,  2  ounces  stearine.     The 


second  mixture,  while  quite  hot,  is  stirred  in- 
to the  first ;  and  then  a  further  addition  of 
10  ounces  gum  Senegal,  dissolved'  in  about  3 
quarts  water,  is  added.  This  compound  is 
the  stock ;  for  use,  it  should  be  diluted  with 
about  3  times  its  quantity  of  warm  water. 

3101.  Day  and  Martin's  Blacking. 
According  to  Mr.  W".  C.  pay,  the  method  of 
making  the  famous  "  Day  and  Martin's  Black- 
ing "is  as  follows:  Bone-black  in  a  state  of 
powder,  is  mixed  with  sperm  oil  until  the 
two  are  thoroughly  incorporated.  Sugar  or 
molasses  is  then  mixed  with  a  small  portion 
of  vinegar  and  added  to  the  mass.  Oil  of 
vitriol  is  next  addled,  and  when  all  efferves- 
cence has  ceased,  more  vinegar  is  poured  in 
until  the  mixture  is  of  a  proper  consistency. 
This  constitutes  the  liquid  blacking  of  the 
above-named  manufacturers. 


Method  of  Marbling 
Books.  This  is  performed  by 
laying  the  color  on  the  edges  with  a  brush, 
or  by  means  of  a  wooden  trough  and  gum- 
water  as  follows  : — Provide  a  wooden  trough, 
2  inches  deep,  6  inches  wide,  and  the  length 
of  a  super-royal  sheet ;  boil  in  a  brass  or  cop- 
per pan  any  quantity  of  linseed  and  water 
until  a  thick  mucilage  is  formed;  strain  it 
into  the  trough,  and  "let  it  cool ;  then  grind 
on  a  marble  slab  any  of  the  following  colors 
in  small  beer.  For — 

Blue,  Prussian  blue  or  indigo. 

Bed,  rose-pink,  vermilion,  or  drop  lake. 

Yellow,  King's  yellow,  yellow  ochre,  <fcc. 

White,  flake  white. 

Black,  ivory  or  burnt  lampblack. 

Brown,  umber,  burnt  umber,  Vandyke 
brown,  sienna,  burnt  sienna;  black  mixed 
with  yellow  and  red,  also  makes  brown. 

Green,  blue  and  yellow  mixed. 

Orange,  red  and  yellow  mixed. 

Purple,  red  and  blue  mixed. 

For  each  color  you  must  have  two  cups, 
one  for  the  color  after  grinding,  the  other  to 
mix  it  with  ox-gall,  which  must  be  used  to 
thin  the  colors  at  discretion.  If  top  much 
iall  is  used,  the  color  will  spread;  when 
ihey  keep  their  place  on  the  surface  of  the 
;rough,  when  moved  with  a  quill,  they  are  fit 
'or  use.  All  things  being  in  readiness,  the 
colors  are  successively  sprinkled  on  the  sur- 
?ace  of  the  mucilage  in  the  trough  with  a 
jrush,  and  are  waved  or  drawn  about  with  a 
quill  or  stick,  according  to  taste.  "When  the 
design  is  thus  formed,  the  book,  tied  tightly 
Between  cutting-boards  of  the  same  size.,  is 
ightly  pressed  with  its  edge  on  the  surface  of 
;he  liquid  pattern,  and  then  withdrawn  and 
dried;  the  covers  may  be  marbled  in  the 
same  way,  only  letting  the  liquid  colors  run 
over  them.  The  film  of  color  in  the  trough 
may  be  as  thin  as  possible,  and  if  any  remains 
after  the  marbling,  it  may  be  taken  off  by  ap- 
plying paper  to  it  before  you  prepare  for 
marbling  again. 

3103.  Blue  Sprinkle  for  Bookbinders. 
Strong  sulphuric  acid,  8  ounces ;  Spanish  in- 
igo,  powdered,  2 .  ounces.  Mix  in  a  bottle 
hat  will  hold  a  quart,  and  place  it  in  a  water- 
)ath  to  promote  solution.  For  use,  dilute  a 
ittle  to  the  required  color  in  a  teacup. 


284: 


METHOD  OF  MARBLING  BOOKS. 


3104.  Blue  Marble  for  Books,   &c. 

Color  the  edges  with  King's  yellow,  and  when 
dry  tie  the  book  between  boards.  Throw  on 
blue  spots  in  the  gum  trough,  wave  them 
with  the  iron  pin,  and  a^ply  the  edges 
thereon. 

3105.  Brown  Color  for  Marbling  or 
Sprinkling  Books.    Logwood  chips,  1  part ; 
annotto,  1  part;  boil  in  water,  6  parts.     If  too 
light,  add  a  piece  of  copperas  about  the  size 
of  a  pea.     Or :  Umber,  any  quantity.     Grind 
it  on  a  slab  with  ox-gall  and  a  little  lamp- 
black.    Dilute  with  ale. 

3106.  Gold  Sprinkle  for  Books.    Put 
into  a  marble  mortar  i  ounce  pure  honey  and 
1  book  of  gold  leaf;  rub  them  well  together 
until  they  are  very  fine,  add  |  pint  of  clear 
water,  and  mix  them  well  together.     "When 
the  water  clears,  pour  it  off,  and  put  in  more, 
till  the  honey  is  all  extracted,  and  nothing  re- 
mains but  the  gold.    Mix  1   grain  corrosive 
sublimate  in  a  tea-spoonful  spirits  of  wine, 
and  when  dissolved,  put  the  same,  together 
with  a  little  gum  water,  to  the  gold,  and  bot- 
tle it  close  for  use.    The  edges  of  the  book 
may  be  sprinkled  or  colored  very  dark,  with 
green,  blue,  or  purple,  and  lastly  with  the 
gold  liquid,  in  small  or  large  spots,  very  regu- 
lar, shaking  the  bottle  before  using.    Burnish 
the  edges  when  dry,  and  cover  them  with 
paper  to  prevent  the  dust  falling  thereon. 
This  sprinkle  will  have  a  most  beautiful  ap- 
pearance on  extra  work ;  ladies  may  use  it 
for  ornamenting  their  fancy  work,  by  putting 
it  on  with  a  pen  or  camel's  hair  brush,  and 
when  dry  burnishing  it  with  a  dog's  tooth. 

3107.  Marble    for    Leather    Book- 
Covers.     "Wash  the  cover  and  glair  it,  take  a 
sponge  charged  with  water,  having  the  book 
between  wands,  and  drop  the  water  from  the 
sponge  on  the  different  parts  of  the  cover; 
sprinkle  very  fine  with  vinegar  black,  then 
with  brown,  and  lastly  with  vitriol  water. 
Observe  to  sprinkle  on  the  colors  immediately 
after  each  other,  and  to  wash  the  cover  over 
with  a  clean  sponge  and  water. 

3108.  Chinese    Edge     for     Books. 
Color  the  edge  with  light  liquid  blue  and  dry ; 
then  take  a  sponge  charged  with  vermilion, 
and  dab  on  spots  according  to  fancy;  next 
throw  on  rice,  and  finish  the  edge  with  dark 
liquid  blue.     Color  light  blue  on    different 
parts  of  the  edge  with  a  sponge :  do  the  same 
where  there  are  vacancies  with  yellow  and 
Brazil  red ;  dry  and  dab  on  a  little  vermilion 
in  spots;  then  throw  on  rice,  and  finish  with 
a  bold  sprinkle  of  dark  blue.     Burnish. 

3109.  Wax     Marble    for     Leather 
Book-Covers,  &c.     This  marbling  must  be 
done  on  the  fore  edge,  before  the  back  of  the 
book  is  rounded,  or  becomes  round,  when  in 
boards,  and  finished  on  the  head  and  foot. 
Take  bees'  wax  and  dissolve  it  over  the  fire  in 
an  earthen  vessel;    take  quills   stripped  of 
their  feathers,  and  tie  them  together ;  dip  the 
quill-tops  in  the  wax,  and  spot  the  edge,  with 
large  and  small  spots ;  take  a  sponge  charged 
with  blue,  green,  or  red,  and  smear  over  the 
edge :  when  done,  dash  off  the  wax,  and  it 
will  be  marbled.      This  will  be   useful  for 
stationery  work,  or  for  folios  and  quartos. 

3110.  Yellow  Egyptian   Marble  for 
Leather    Book-Covers.      Boil    quercitron 
bark  with  water  and  a  little  powdered  alum, 


over  a  slow  fire,  until  it  is  a  good  strong  yel- 
low. Pour  the  liquid  into  a  broad  vessel, 
sufficiently  large  to  contain  the  cover  when 
extended.  Before  the  liquid  is  cool,  take  the 
dry  cover,  and  lay  the  grain  side  flat  on  the 
color ;  press  it  lightly  that  the  whole  may  re- 
ceive the  liquid ;  let  it  soak  some  time,  and 
then  take  it  from  the  vessel.  The  book  must 
be  covered  in  the  usual  manner,  and  permitted 
to  dry  from  the  fire.  Glair  the  book ;  when 
dry,  place  it  between  the  wands;  take  a 
sponge  and  water,  and  press  large  spots  there- 
on; dip  a  quill-top  into  the  vinegar  black, 
with  it  touch  the  water  on  the  cover  in  differ- 
ent parts,  which  will  have  a  fine  effect  when 
managed  with  care.  Let  it  stand  a  few  min- 
utes, then  take  off  the  water  with  a  clean 
sponge. 

3111.  Green  Egyptian  Marble   for 
Leather  Book-Covers.      Color  the  teover 
in  a  large  vessel,  as  mentioned  before,  with 
Scott's  liquid  blue ;  when  done,  put  it  into  a 
vessel  of  clear  water  for  an  hour.    Take  it  out 
and  press  out  the  water,  then  cover  the  book. 
Glair  the  cover;  when  dry,  place  it  between 
wands,  and  drop  weak  potash  water  from  a 
sponge  thereon;   dip   the   quill-top   into   the 
strong  black,  and  touch  the  water  with  it. 
This  must  be  repeated  till  you  have  a  good 
black.    "When-dry,  clear  it  with  a  sponge  and 
water. 

3112.  B-ed    Egyptian    Marble    for 
Leather  Book-Covers.     Boil  Brazil  dust  in 
rain-water  on  a  slow  fire,  with  a  little  pow- 
dered alum  and  a  few  drops  of  solution  of 
tin,  till  a  good  color  is  produced.    Dip  a  piece 
of  calf  leather  into  the  liquid,  and  you  may 
ascertain  the  color  wanted.     If  too  ligh,t,  let 
it  boil  till  it  is  reduced  to  one  half  of  the  quan- 
tity ;  take  it  from  the  fire,  add  a  few  more 
drops  of  the  solution  of  tin,  and  pour  it  into  a 
large  vessel.    Put  the  dry  cover  on  the  liquid, 
and  let  it  remain  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
then  press  out  the  water.     Color  it  over  with 
a  sponge  and  the  quercitron  bark  water,  and 
cover  the  book.     Glair  the  cover,  place  it  be- 
tween wands,  dash  on  water  with  a  brush, 
also  potash  water ;  and,  lastly,  finish  it  with 
the  strong  vinegar  black,  with  the  quill-top. 
Observe  that  too  much  black  is  not  put  on  ; 
the  intention  of  the  marble  is  to  show  the  red 
as  transparently  as  possible. 

3113.  Green    Marble   for    Leather 
Book-Covers.     The  edge  must  be  marbled 
with  a  good  bright  gree'n  only.     "When  the 
color  is  prepared  with  the  ox-gall,  and  ready 
for  use,  a  few  drops  of  sweet  oil  must  be 
mixed  therein,  the  color  thrown  on  with  a 
brush,  in  large  spots,  till  the  gum  is  perfectly 
covered.      The   oil  will  make   a  light   edge 
round   each  spot,   and  have  a  good    effect. 
Blue,  green,  and  brown  maybe  also  used  sep- 
arately in  like  manner.     Sheets  of  paper  may 
be  done,  having  a  trough  large  enough,  and 
the  sheets  damped  as  for    printing,    before 
marbling.      Spirits    of   turpentine    may    be 
sprinkled  on  the  colors,  which    will   make 
white  spots. 

3114.  Binders' Thread  Marble.     Yel- 
low the  edge ;  when  dry,  cut  pieces  of  thick 
thread  over  the  edge,  which  will  fall  on  differ- 
ent parts  irregularly  ;  give  it  a  fine  dark  sprin- 
kle, and  shake  off'  the  thread.     This  produces 
a  nea-t  marbled  appearance. 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


285 


3115.  Rice    Marble,    for     Leather 
Book-Covers.     Color  the  cover  with  spirits 
of  wine  and  turmeric,  then  place  on  rice  iu  a 
regular  manner ;  throw  on  a  very  fine  sprinkle 
of  copperas   water  till   the   cover  is  nearly 
black,  and  let  it  remain  till  dry.     The  cover 
may  be  spotted  with  the  red  liquid  or  potash 
water,  very  freely,  before  tho  rice  is  thrown 
off  the  boards. 

3116.  Orange  Color  for  Marbling  or 
Sprinkling  Books.    Ground  Brazil  wood,  1G 
parts;    annotto,  4    parts;    alum,   sugar,   and 
gum-arabic,  each  1  part ;  water,  70  parts.   Boil, 
strain,  and  bottle. 

3117.  Tree     Marble,     for     Leather 
Book-Covers.      A  marble  iu  the  form  of 
trees  may  bo  done  by  bending  the  boards  a 
little  on  tho  centre,  using  the  same  method 
as  the  common  marble,  having  tho  cover  pre- 
viously prepared.     The  end  of  a  candle  may 
be  rubbed  on  different  parts  of  the  boards, 
which  will  form  knots. 

3118.  Vinegar     Black    for     Book- 
binders.    Steep  iron  filings  or  rusty  iron  in 
good  vinegar  for  two  or  three  days,   then 
strain  off  the  liquor. 

3119.  To  Sprinkle  Books.      Take  a 
stiff  brush  made  of  hogs'  bristles,   perfectly 
clean,  dip   it  in  the  color;  squeeze  out  the 
superfluous  liquid;   then  rub  a  folding-stick 
across  tho  brush,  and  a  fine  sprinkle  will  fall 
on  the  edge  of  the  book,  which  should  be 
previously  screwed  tight  in  the  cutting-press. 
Kepeat  the  operation  until  the  color  is  thrown 
equally   on  every  part  of  tho  leaves.    The 
brush  should  be  held  in  the  left  hand,  and  the 
stick  in  tho  right. 

3120.  Chinese  Marble  for  Leather 
Book-Covers.     Color  tho  cover  of  tho  book 
dark  brown,  and  when  dry  put  it  into  the  cut- 
ting-press,   with  the   boards    perfectly   flat; 
mix  whiting  and  water  of  a  thick  consistence 
and  throw  it  on,  in  spots  or  streaks,  some 
largo  and  some  small,  which  must  remain  till 
dry.     Spot  or  sprinkle  the  cover  with  liquid 
blue,  and  lastly  throw  on  large  spots  of  liquid 
red.     Tho  colors  must  be  dry  before  washing 
off  the  whiting. 

3121.  Orange    Sprinkle  for  Books. 
Color  the  edge  with  King's  yellow,  mixed  in 
weak  gum-water,  then  sprinkle  with  vermilion 
mixed  in  the  same  manner. 

3122.  Purple    Sprinkle    for    Book- 
binders.     Logwood   chips,   4  parts ;    pow- 
dered  alum,    1   part;    soft  water,   24  parts. 
Boil  until  reduced  to  1G  parts,  and  bottle  for 
use.     Or:  Brazil  dust  (fine),  and  mix  it  with 
potash  water  for  use. 

3123.  Soap  Marble  for  Books.     This 
is  applicable  for  marbling  stationery,   book 
edges,    or  sheets  of  paper  for  ladies'  fancy 
work.       Grind,   on   a  marble   slab,  Prussian 
blua,  with  water,  and  a  little  brown  soap,  to 
a  fine  pliable  consistence,  that  it  may  be 
thrown  on  with  a  small  brush.     Grind  King's 
yellow  in  tho  same  manner,  with  water  and 
white    soap.      When   green   is  intended  for 
tho  ground  color,  grind  it  with  brown  soap, 
and   King's  yellow  with  white  soap.     Lake 
may  be  used  for  a  ground  color,  and  Prussian 
blue  ground  with  white  soap ;  brown  umber 
for  a  ground  color,  and  flake- white  ground 
with  white  soap.    Any  color  of  a  light  sub- 
stance may  be  ground  for  marbling. 


3124.  Spotted   Marble   for   Books. 

After  the  fore-edge  of  the  book  is  cut,  let  it 
remain  in  the  press,  and  throw  on  linseeds  in 
a  regular  manner;  sprinkle  the  edge  with  any 
dark  color,  till  the  white  paper  is  covered, 
then  shake  off  the  seeds.  Various  colors  may 
be  used.  The  edge  may  be  colored  with 
yellow  or  red  before  throwing  on  tho  seeds 
and  sprinkling  with  blue.  The  seeds  will 
make  a  fine  fancy  edge  when  placed  very 
thick  on  different  parts,  with  a  lew  slightly 
thrown  on  the  spaces  between. 

3125.  Brown  Sprinkle  for  Leather 
Book-Covers.     Pearlash  or  potash,  1  part; 
soft  water,  4  parts.    Dissolve  and  strain. 

3126.  Bed  Sprinkle  for  Binders. 
Brazil  wood  (ground),  4  parts;  alum,  1  part; 
vinegar,  4  parts ;  water,  4  parts.  Boil  until 
reduced  to  7  parts,  then  add  a  small  quantity 
of  loaf-sugar  and  gum.  Bottle  for  use. 

3127.  Black  Sprinkle  for  Leather 
Book-Covers.  Green  copperas,  1  part ;  soft 
water,  hot,  6  parts.  Dissolve. 


PllOtOgraphy.  Photography  is 
based  upon  the  law  or  principle  that 
sunlight  decomposes  certain  combinations  of 
the  salts  of  silver.  For  instance,  if  a  piece  of 
paper  is  first  dipped  into  a  solution  of  chloride 
of  sodium  (common  table  salt,)  and  then, 
when  dried,  floated  on  a  solution  of  nitrate  of 
silver,  it  will,  upon  being  brought  to  tho 
light,  begin  to  darken,  and  finally  assume  an 
absolute  black.  It  will  be  seen  that  if  any 
opaque  or  semi-opaque  body  is  interposed  be- 
tween the  light  and  the  paper,  that  portion 
which  is  so  protected  from  the  action  of  tho 
light  remains  white,  and  thus  impresses  upon 
the  paper,  in  a  negative  condition,  the  form 
or  figure  of  the  article  so  used. 

The  entire  matter  embraced  in  NQS.  3123 
to  3154  is  contributed  by  the  eminent 
photographer,  Mr.  Geo.  G.  Rockwood,  of 
New  York. 

3129.  To  Make  a  Photograph  "With- 
out a  Camera.     Tho   art  of   photography 
has  many  interesting  and  useful  applications 
other  than  portraiture,  one  of  the  simplest 
and  most  beautiful  of  which  we  here  present. 
It  can  be  applied  to  the  copying  of  laces, 
drawings,  leaves,  or  anything  of  a  transparent 
or  translucent  nature.    It  is  proposed  to  first 
describe  the  manipulations,  and  then  give  the 
formulae. 

3130.  Papier  Saxe  for  Photography. 
Tho  best  is  the  papier  saxe,  an  article  made 
expressly  for  photography,  and  may  be  ob- 
tained from  any  dealer  in  photographic  ma- 
terials.    It  is  sold  in  sheets  about  18  by  22 
inches.     Tho  smooth  side  can  be  easily  select- 
ed, and  upon  that  side  the  print  should  be 
made.      Cut  tho  paper  into  the  sizes  most 
convenient  for  the  stylo  of  picture  desired, 
and  prepare  the  salting  solution  as  follows : 

3131.  Salting  Solution  for  Photo- 
graphic Paper.  Mix  together  pure  water, 
16  ounces ;  chloride  of  ammonium  or  of 
sodium,  ICO  grains.  Take  enough  of  this  to 
cover  a  shallow  dish  of  porcelain  to  the  depth 
of  £  inch  or  more,  and  then  immerse  the 
paper,  one  sheet  at  a  time.  "When  a  half 
dozen  are  in,  turn  them  all  over,  and  take 


286 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


them  out  one  by  one,  in  the  order  ia  which 
they  were  immersed,  and  hang  them  up 
separately  to  dry. 

3132.  Albumenized  Paper  for  Pho- 
tography.    Albumenized  paper,  such  as  is 
used  for  ordinary  portraiture  in  the  galleries, 
is  always  ready  prepared  for  silvering.     It  is 
much  the  finest  and  sharpest  in  its  results, 
and  will  usually  be  adopted;    but  the  most 
artistic  effects  will  be  produced  by  the  use  of 
plain  papier  saxe.     Paper,  in  either  of  these 
forms,  prepared  with  chloride  (salt)  will  keep 
indefinitely. 

3133.  Silver   Solution,  to  Sensatize 
Paper.     The  weather  being  propitious  for 
printing  (a  clear,  bright  sunlight  is  preferable), 
the  salted  or  albumenized  paper  is  taken  into 
a  darkened  room  to  be  rendered  sensitive  by 
the  silver  solution.     Make  about  the  same 
quantity  of  this  as  of  the  salting  solution,  by 
using,  in  the  following  proportions :  Pure  wa- 
ter, 1  ounce ;  nitrate  of  silver  (in  crystals),  60 
grains.     "When    thoroughly    dissolved,   pour 
the  solution  into  a  flat  porcelain  dish,  and 
carefully  remove  all  bubbles,  &c. 

3134.  To  Make  the  Paper  Sensitive. 
Having  prepared  the  silver  solution  as  above 
directed,  take  the  paper  by  opposite  corners, 
smooth  side  down  if  plain  paper,  glazed  side 
if  albumeuized;  lower  one  corner  on  to  the 
solution,  and  steadily  lower  the  rest  to  the 
surface  of  the  solution,  so  that  the  air  is  com- 
pletely driven  out,  and  the  entire  surface  ex- 
posed to  the  action  of  the  silver.    Be  very 
careful  that  the  solution  does  not  get  on  the 
back  of  the  paper.     Plain  paper  (papier  saxe) 
should    float   2    minutes ;     albumenized,    3 
minutes.     Carefully  raise  the  sheet  from  the 
solution,  and  hang  up  to  dry  in  a  perfectly 
dark  room.    It  is  best  to  proceed  with  the 
printing  as  soon  as  the  paper  is  dry.     Addi- 
tional brilliancy  and  sensitiveness  is  imparted 
to  the  paper  by  exposing  it,  after  it  is  thor- 
oughly dry,  to  the  fumes  of  ammonia.     This 
may  be  done  by  hanging  it  up  with  a  clip  or 
pin  in  a  close  box,  in  which  is  a  small  dish 
containing  aqua  ammonia  F.F.F.     This  fum- 
ing process  may  be  dispensed  with,  yet  the 
prints  are  much  more  uniform  when  treated 
with  the  ammonia. 

3135.  To  Copy  an  Object.     Having 
prepared,  in  a  dark  room,  a  sheet  of  paper  as 
above,  lay  it  upon  a  piece  of  glass;   place 
upon  the  glass  a  leaf  as  translucent  as  can  be 
found,  and  then  above  it,  to  hold  it  in  place, 
another  piece  of  glass,  and  at  each  corner  a 
clip,  or  a  common  spring  clothes-pin.    Now 
expose  the  plates  so  arranged,  leaf  side  np,  to 
the  sun's  rays.    The  paper  will  at  once  begin 
to  darken,  and  in  from  5  to  10  minutes,  except 
under  the  leaf,   be  entirely  black.      If  the 
plates  are  now  taken  into  a  dark  room*  and 
separated,  the  image  of  the  leaf,  with  all  its 
delicate  tracery  and  beautiful  lines,  will  be 
found  upon  the  paper,  white,  with  black  back- 
ground.    It  would  be  well  to  put  under  the 
sensitive  paper  a  few  thicknesses  of  soft  paper, 
or  black  cotton  velvet.     It  serves  as  a  pad  or 
cushion,  and  tends  to  press  the  paper  up  into 
a  closer  contact  with  the  inequalities  of  the 
leaf,  lace,   or  object  used  as  a  negative  or 
cliche".     Small  printing  frames  can  be  pur- 
chased at  a  moderate  sum,  which  will  enable 
the  experimenter  to  examine  the  progress  of 


the  work  and  ascertain  when  the  print  is 
sufficiently  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  light. 
The  exposure  should  continue  until  the  image 
is  much  darker  than  intended  when  finished, 
as  the  after  processes  of  toning  and  fixing 
reduce  or  bleach  the  pictures  very  considera- 
bly. As  tie  prints  are  taken  out  of  the  frame, 
mit  them  away  in  the  dark  again,  until  ready 
tor  the  toning  bath. 


3136.  To  Prepare  a  Picture  for 
Toning  and  Fixing.  It  will  now  be 
necessary  to  tone  and  fix  the  picture,  in  order 
that  the  image  be  rendered  permanent.  The 
first  processes  to  soak  the  print  in  a  dish  of 
clear  water  for  a  few  minutes,  and  thus  wash 
off  the  free  nitrate  of  silver  remaining  upon 
the  surface  of  the  paper.  A  half  hour's  soak- 
ing, with  one  or  tv.'o  changes  of  the  water, 
will  effect  this  so  that  it  is  ready  for  the  ton- 
ing bath. 

3137.  To  Prepare  a  Toning    Bath. 
Chloride  of  gold  is  sold  in  bottles  containing 
15  grains.     Dissolve   this  in  30  drachms   of 
water,  add  a  drop  of  hydrochloric  acid,  and 
preserve  it  as  a  stock  solution  in  a  bottle ; 
mark  this  gold  solution.     Make  in  another 
bottle  a  saturated  solution  of  washing  soda, 
also  as  a  stock   solution;  mark  it  as  such: 
Soda  solution.    "When  the  prints  have  been 
washed  as  before  directed,  and  are  ready  for 
toning,  mix  1   drachm  of  the  gold   solution 
with  1  ounce  of  water,  according  to  formula. 
Pour  into  a  tray,  and  drop  in  a  small  piece  of 
blue  litmus  paper ;  it  will  become  red.     Ren- 
der the  bath  alkaline  by  adding  from  the  soda 
solution,  drop  by  drop,  until  the  paper  begins 
to  change  blue  again.     It  is  better  to  prepare 
the  toning  bath  during  the  day,  while  the 
printing  is  being  done,  as  the  bath  seems  to 
work  with  more  smoothness  and  uniformity. 
It  may  be  used,  however,  so  soon  as  mixed. 

3138.  To  Tone  a  Picture.     The  print 
is  now  taken  by  two  corners  and  immersed  in 
the  gold  or  toning  bath.'    At  first  the  print 
will  begin  to  bleach,  and  turn  a  warm  red 
color,  which  soon  changes  into   a  beautiful 
warm  black.     Put  in  the  prints  one  by  one, 
keeping  them  separated  or  constantly  in  gen- 
tle motion,  when  the  changes  already  spoken 
of  will  occur.     When  a  deep  purple  or  warm 
black  is  obtained,  remove  them  to  a  basin  of 
clean  water,  and  rinse  them  until  all  are  toned, 
when  they  are  ready  for  immersion  in  a  fixing 
bath,  to  render  them  permanent. 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


287 


3139.  To  Prepare  a  Fixing   Bath. 
Take  water,  6  ounces ;  hyposulphite  of  soda, 
1   ounce.     This  solution  dissolves  from  the 
paper  all  of  the  chloride  of  silver  that  has  not 
been  acted  upon  by>the  light,  but  does  not  in- 
jure  the   picture  or  image.     The  usual  time 
for  leaving  the  print  in  this  bath  is  about  15 
minutes.     If  the  print  is  held  up  to  transmit- 
ted light  before  it  is  placed  in  this  solution,  it 
will  appear  quite  opaque  .and  cloudy  in  what 
should   be  the    clear  parts  of   the    picture. 
After  the  print  has  been  in  the   bath  the 
proper  time  this  will  disappear,  and  the  print 
have   a  clear,  translucent  effect.     The  print 
should  now  be  washed  in  2  or  3  waters,  and 
left  to  soak  in  a  dish  of  water  all  night.     In 
the  morning  it  can  be  hung  up  to  dry,  and 
then  mounted,  as  the  taste  of  the  experiment- 
er may  suggest.     If  the  saving  of  time  is  an 
object,  the  print,  after  coming  from  the  fixing 
bath,   can    be    rinsed   in  water    and  passed 
through   a   common    clothes-wringer    a    few 
times,  each  time  being  dipped  in  clean  water, 
when  the  print  will  be  found  to  be  perfectly 
washed.      "When  properly  fixed,   as  already 
described,  they  are  to  be  washed,  and  finally 
mounted  on  card  or  bristol  board.     The  best 
paste  for  this   purpose  is   common  laundry 
starch. 

3140.  Precautions  to  be  Observed  in 
Making1  a  Picture.     When  directions  are 
given  to  prepare  and  keep  the  sensitive  paper 
in  a  dark  room,  it  should,  of  course,  be  under- 
stood that  daylight  only  is  to  be  excluded ; 
gas  or  candle  light  will  do  no  harm.  A  window 
closely  covered  with  yellow  paper  completely 
filters  the  light  of  all  actinic  or  chemical 
power,  and  consequently  will  do  no  harm. 
Be  careful  that  not  a  drop  of  the  fixing  solu- 

•tion  gets  into  the  gold  or  toning  bath.  After 
the  final  process  of  fixing,  take  the  greatest 
care  that  the  prints  do  not  again  come  into 
contact  with  the  hyposulphite  of  soda.  Soda 
is  good — indispensable  in  its  place,  but  ex- 
ceedingly harmful  out  of  its  place.  So  keep 
all  the  dishes  and  fingers  free  from  it.  In  all 
of  the  manipulations,  observe  the  most  perfect 
neatness.  Handle  the  prints  with  the  tips  of 
your  fingers,  and  always  with  deliberation 
and  care.  If  the  silver  solution  grows  weak 
by  use — a  mealy  look  to  the  prints  indicates 
it — add  a  few  grains  of  nitrate  of  silver.  If 
by  use  it  turns  a  dark  wine  color,  and  the 
paper  is  not  white  when  dry,  set  the  solution 
m  clear  sunlight  for  a  day  or  two  and  it  will 
clear.  Filter  before  using  again.  The  soda 
(fixing)  bath  should  not  be  used  more  than  2 
or  3  times.  "Where  prints  are  only  occasion- 
ally made,  a  fresh  bath  should  be  made  each 
time  of  printing.  The  gold  (toning)  bath 
works  quicker  when  warmed  to  about  blood 
heat,  Prints  will  then  tone  in  from  2  to  6 
minutes.  Prints  on  plain  paper  will  tone 
quicker  than  on  albumenized.  If  prints  are 
undertoned  they  will  present  a  warm  brown 
appearance ;  if  toned  too  much,  a  cold  steel 
color.  A  little  experience  will  soon  indicate 
the  precise  amount  of  toning  required. 

3141.  To  Remove  Nitrate  of  Silver 
Stains.     An  inevitable  consequence  of  prac- 
ticing this  process  will  be  stains  on  the  hands 
and    clothing    from    the    nitrate    of  silver. 
Moisten  the  spots  with  tincture  of  iodine,  and 
then  with  a  saturated  solution  of  hyposul- 


phite of  soda.  Cyanide  of  potassium  acts 
more  energetically,  but  is  a  very  chmgerous 
poison,  and  is  not  recommended. 

3142.  The  Photographic  Negative 
or  Clich6.  In  number  3128  we  have  sta- 
ted the  general  principles  of  the  photographic 
art;  that  it  was  based  upon  the  fact  that 
solar  light  decomposes  certain  combinations 
of  the  salts  of  silver ;  that  in  proportion  or  to 
the  extent  that  such  sensitive  surface  is  ex- 
posed to  the  action  of  light,  so  is  the  depth  of 
the  stain  or  intensity  of  the  image  upon  the 
prepared  paper.  Now  if  we  should  cut  from 
an  opaque  or  black  piece  of  paper,  any  form 
or  figure — an  old  fashioned  silhouette  would  be 
a  familiar  illustration — and  place  it  upon  the 
silvered  paper,  the  precise  image  or  form  cut 
in  the  paper  would,  upon  removal,  be  found 
upon  the  paper;  the  paper  remaining  white 
under  the  figure  leaf  or  "  theorem,"  while  the 
parts  exposed  to  the  light  have  turned  black. 
In  place  of  this  figure,  science  has  given  us 
the  Photographic  Negative  or  Cliche.  A 
negative  is  an  image  produced  upon  glass  by 
a  camera  (an  improved  form  of  the  old  cam- 
era obscura)  and  derives  its  name  from  the 
fact  that  the  image  is  reversed  or  negative  by 
transmitted  light  (looking  through  it),  the 
lights  appearing  dark,  and  the  dark  parts 
light.  The  chemicals  used  to  produce  it  are 
also  combinations  of  the  salts  of  silver,  but 
are  so  sensitive  to  the  action  of  light,  that 
they  are  decomposed  instantaneously  by  ex- 
posure. The  formulae  will  follow  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  process. 

3143.  To  Make  a  Photographic 
Negative.  In  a  room  illuminated  only  by  a 
feeble  gas  or  candle  light,  .or  by  such  daylight 
as  is  filtered  of  its  chemical  power  through 
a  sheet  of  yellow  glass,  a  glass  plate  is  care- 
fully flowed  with  collodion.  (See  No.  3149.) 
"When  the  plate  has  been  evenly  covered,  the 
excess  is  quickly  but  deliberately  returned  to 
the  bottle,  and  the  plate  gently  and  slowly 
swayed  from  side  to  side  until  the  collodion  is 
set,  or  when  the  surface  is  tacky  to  the  touch. 
It  is  then  placed  on  a  dipper,  and,  with  a 
steady,  continuous  motion,  immersed,  collo- 
dion side  upwards,  in  the  silver  bath.  (See 
No.  3150.)  If  the  plate  is  stopped  in  its  de- 
scent into  the  bath,  a  check  or  line  will  show 
across  its  face.  In  3  to  5  minutes,  depending 
upon  temperature,  etc.,  the  plate  is  coated, 
or,  in  other  words,  the  chemicals  in  the  collo- 
dion have  united  with  the  nitrate  of  silver, 
forming  the  sensitive  surface  or  coating,  If 
not  coated  sufficiently  the  surface  will  appear 
greasy;  in  this  case  the  plate  must  be  returned 
to  the  bath  until  the  film  appears  perfectly 
smooth.  "While  this  is  being  done  it  is  sup- 
posed that  the  operator  has  adjusted  the 
camera  upon  the  object  to  be  photographed 
by  focussing  his  lens.  This  is  clone  by  turn- 
ing the  lens  in  and  out,  or  from  and  towards 
the  ground  glass  of  the  camera,  until  the 
point  is  ascertained  which  gives  the  sharpest 
image  upon  the  ground  glass.  All  being 
ready,  the  operator  returns  to  the  dark  room 
for  his  sensitive  plate.  This  is  placed  in  a 
"holder,"  and  the  ground  glass  being  re- 
moved, the  holder  is  substituted  in  its  place. 
The  slide  or  cover  to  the  holder  is  now  with- 
drawn and  the  sensitive  plate  exposed  to  the 
action  of  the  image  of  light  thrown  upon  it  by 


288 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


the  lens.  After  an  exposure  of  15  to  60  sec- 
onds, depending  so  much  upon  the  intensity 
of  the  light  that  it  can  only  be  ascertained  by 
experience,  the  slide  is  replaced  in  the  holder 
and  the  plate  taken  to  the  dark  room  for  de- 
velopment. 

3144.  To  Develop  a  Negative.      This 
is  done  by  removing  the  plate  from  the  hold- 
er, and,  holding  the  plate  in  a  horizontal  po- 

•sition,  flowing  it  with  the  developing  solu- 
tion. (See  No.  3151.)  If  properly  timed  or 
exposed,  the  image  begins  to  appear.  When 
the  details  of  the  drapery,  if  a  portrait,  ap- 
pear and  the  solution  seems  to  have  lost  its 
power,  the  plate  is  thoroughly  washed  under 
a  stream  of  clean  water.  If  the  image  is  suf- 
ficiently strong  and  vigorous,  it  is  "  cleared" 
by  placing  the  plate  in  the  fixing  bath,  and 
that  portion  of  the  film  not  acted  upon  by  the 
light  is  dissolved  away,  leaving  the  image 
upon  the  glass.  After  a  thorough  washing 
in  water,  the  plate  is  put  in  a  rack  to  dry, 
after  which  it  is  slightly  warmed  and  var- 
nished. 

3145.  To  Varnish  a  Negative.    The 
varnish  (see  No.  3153)  is  flowed  on  and  off' 
precisely  as  with  the  collodion.     (See  No. 
3143.)     It  should  be  again  slightly  wanned 
to  prevent  the  varnish  from  chilling  or  bloom- 
ing.    When  dry,  which  will  be  in  5  to  10 
minutes,  the  negative  is  ready  for  use  as  de- 
scribed in  Nos.  3135,  <fcc.,  using  the  negative 
instead  of  the  leaf.     Should  the  image  have 
evidence  of  full  exposure  by  the  existence  of 
all  the  proper  detail,  and  yet  want  vigor  or 
intensity,  this  may  be  imparted,  before  var- 
nishing, by  re-development. 

3146.  To   He-develop   a   Negative. 
This  is  done  by  pouring  upon  the  plate  about 
1  ounce  of  the  pyrogallic  acid  solution  to 
which  has  been  added  5  or  6  drops  of  the  sil- 
ver solution  designated  for  that  purpose.     (See 
No.  3152.) 

3147.  Glass  for  Photography.      For 
portraiture   and   ordinary    landscape    photo- 
graphy, the  best  qualities  of  picture  or  win- 
dow glass  will  suffice.    There  is  an  article 
sold  by  dealers    in  photographic  materials, 
known  as  photographic    or  negative   glass, 
which  is  selected  for  the  purpose  and  cut  into 
the  regular  sizes  used  in  the  art,  viz.,  stereo- 
scopic, "quarter"  size,   "half"   size,  "four- 
four"  <fcc.,  the  latter  being  6iX&J  inches  and 
the  other  sizes  fractional  parts,  as  their  names 
suggest.    For  microscopic  and  scientific  ex- 
periments, plate  glass  would  be  preferable. 
A  quality  known  as  "  three  quarter  white " 
plate,  and  only  of  the  thickness  of  ordinary 
single  thick  window  glass,  has  all  the  requi- 
sites for  exact  photography.    "When  it  is  pro- 
posed to  print  photographs  upon  glass,  for 
magic  lanterns  or  transparencies,  plate  glass  is 
absolutely  essential. 

3148.  To  Prepare  Glass  for  Photo- 
graphy.    All  new  glass  should  be  placed  for 
a  few  minutes  in  a  strong  solution  of  com- 
mercial nitric  acid  (say  1  ounce  nitric  acid  to 
3  ounces  water),  and  then  thoroughly  washed 
in  clean  water.    While  wet,  pour  upon  the 
glass  a  solution  consisting  of  white  of  egg,  1 
ounce ;   water,  20  ounces ;   drain  off  into  a 
separate  bottle,  or  clean,  filter,  and  set  up  in  a 
rack  to  dry.    The  albumen  and  water  solution, 
before  using,  should  be  very  thoroughly  beaten 


together.  After  the  froth  has  subsided,  filter 
the  solution  through  a  clean  sponge,  two  or 
three  thicknesses  of  linen,  or,  still  better,  fil- 
tering paper.  The  solution  above  named  will 
coat  more  plates  than  an  amateur  would  be 
likely  to  use.  Use  fresh  eggs  and  a  newly 
made  solution  whenever  coating  plates.  The 
plates  so  prepared  will  keep  indefinitely. 

3149.  Collodion  for  Photography. 
Collodion  is  the  vehicle  by  which  the  photo- 
graphic chemicals  are  united  upon  the  surfaco 
of  the  glass  and  the  sensitive  coating  pro- 
duced. It  is  made  by  dissolving  in  equal  of 
nearly  equal  proportions  of  sulphuric  ethet 
and  alcohol,  gun  cotton  or  pyroxylino  together 
with  certain  salts  of  potassium,  cadmium, 
ammonium,  &c.,  in  proportions  named  in  the 
formulae.  Many  formulae  are  published  for 
this  article  to  which  great  value  is  attached, 
some  supposing  that  to  its  peculiar  composi- 
tion belong  the  principal  causes  of  failure  01 
success.  This  is  only  in  a  degree  true.  In- 
ferior or  carelessly  prepared  chemicals  used  in 
any  stage  of  the  process  impair  results.  The 
writer  has  fixed  as  a  general  principle  in  the 
preparation  of  collodion  the  proportion  of  1 
grain  of  the  exciting  salts  (in  each  ounce  of 
collodion),  to  every  10  grains  of  silver  in  the 
bath.  To  illustrate :  If  the  silver  bath  solu- 
tion is  at  50°,  or,  more  definitely,  50  grains  of 
silver  to  each  ounce  of  water,  we  would  make 
the  collodion  so  as  to  contain  in  each  ounce 
of  collodion  5  grains  of  the  various  salts  of 
cadmium,  ammonium,  etc.;  or  another  way  of 
putting  it,  the  bath  should  be  ten  times  as 
strong  as  the  collodion.  The  sensitizing  salts 
should  be  selected  with  a  special  reference  to 
the  peculiarities  of  the  light  or  subjects.  It 
can  be  made  under  one  formula  to  cover 
almost  all  emergencies ;  yet  special  kinds  of 
work  for  extremes  of  light  or  shadow  can  be 
improved  by  varying  the  combinations  of  the 
exciting  or  sensitizing  salts.  For  portraiture 
in  a  room  of  evenly  diffused  light  the  iodide 
of  cadmium  as  the  principal  excitant  gives 
softness  and  delicacy  to  the  image.  Thus : 

I.  Take  of  sulphuric  ether,  1  ounce;  95  per 
cent,  alcohol,  1  ounce ;  gun  cotton,  6  grains ; 
iodide  of  cadmium,  4  grains ;  bromide  of  cad- 
mium, 2  grains. 

II.  Sulphuric   ether,    1   ounce ;    alcohol,   1 
ounce ;  gun  cotton,  6  grains ;  iodide  of  cad- 
mium, 3-J  grains;   bromide  of  potassium.  2-J- 
grains. 

These  two  formula?  give  the  utmost  deli- 
cacy and  transparency  to  the  shadows,  and 
work  with  rapidity,  when  preserving  their 
proper  relations  to  the  silver  bath  solution,  of 
which  we  speak  in  the  proper  place.  If  more 
brightness  is  desired  to  the  image,  instead  of 
the  iodide  of  cadmium  put  the  fame  quantity 
of  iodide  of  ammonium.  If  still  greater  con- 
trasts arc  required,  use  iodide  of  potassium  in 
place  of  cither  the  cadmium  or  potassium. 
The  latter  is  favorable  for  copying  engravings, 
maps,  plans,  <tc.,  in  which  strong  contrasts 
of  white  and  black  are  desirable.  It  is  well 
to  prepare  from  all  these  formula;  and  then 
modify  results  by  mixiug  them  together  as 
the  subjects  or  light  may  demand.  Farther 
combinations  may  be  suggested ;  under  a 
feeble  light,  or  where  there  are  large  masses  of 
shadow,  reduce  the  amount  of  the  iodide  Fait 
one  grain  and  increase  the  bromide  one  grain. 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


289 


IN  COMBINING  THE  INGREDIENTS,  measure  j  with  normal  collodion  of  the  usual  deserip- 
out  the  required  quantity  of  alcohol,  and  to  tion,  and  when  the  film  has  set  perfectly,  but 
it  add  the  gun  cotton  and  such  of  the  exciting  has  not  become  completely  dry,  the  pictures, 
salts  as  dissolve  in  alcohol,  and  lastly  the  I  which  have  previously  been  trimmed  and 
ether.  Shake  until  all  are  thoroughly  dis-  finished,  are  dipped  rapidly  into  alcohol,  and 


solved,  and  put  aside  over  night  to  settle 
When  clear,  decant  into  the  flowing  or  coating 
bottle  for  use.  Such  of  the  excitants  as  do 
not  dissolve  in  alcohol  should  be  dissolved  in 
as  small  a  quantity  of  water  as  is  possible  and 
added  to  the  alcohol,  &c.,  a  little  at  a  time,  and 
quickly  shaken. 

3150.  Silver  Bath.  Make  a  solution  in 
the  proportion  of  GO  grains  nitrate  of  silver  to 
1  ounce  water.  Test  the  solution  with  litmus 
paper,  and  if  slightly  alkaline,  or  neutral,  add 
nitric  acid  to  produce  a  faint  red  reaction  to 
the  paper.  The  best  method  is  to  add  a  few 
drops  of  chemically  pure  nitric  acid  to  an 
ounce  of  water,  and  add  this  solution  to  the 
silver  bath  a  very  few  drops  at  a  time.  Then 
coat  a  plate  with  collodion  and  let  it  remain 
in  the  bath  all  night.  The  freshly  made  col- 
lodion can  be  used  for  this  purpose,  and  thus 
both  collodion  and  silver  solution  or  bath  be 
made  ready  for  work  at  the  same  time. 

3151.  Developing  Solution.  This 
may  be  made  in  stock  solution  of  the  simple 


applied  without  delay  to  the  plates.  The 
prints  are  pressed  and  rubbed  down  with 
smooth  writing  paper,  and  the  operation  of 
mounting  is  proceeded  with  as  soon  as  the 
backs  of  the  pictures  have  become  white;  or, 
in  other  words,  as  soon  as  the  alcohol  has 
again  evaporated.  The  cardboard  should  be 
allowed  to  remain  in  water  for  at  least  half  an 
hour  previously  to  its  being  employed  for 
mounting.  The  more  rapidly  the  pictures  are 
applied  and  pressed  upon  the  collodion  sur- 
face, the  more  beautiful  will  be  the  finished 
result. 

3156.  Photographic  Impressions 
With  Fuchsine.  A  piece  of  linen  goods 
colored  with  fuchsine,  and  dried,  was  exposed 
to  the  light  under  a  photographic  negative, 
when  the  image  of  the  plate  became  visible 
on  the  goods,  the  picture  looking  greyish  and 
faded  where  the  lights  were  strongest.  Still 
the  picture  was  rather  weak,  and  the  goods 
were  soaked  for  2  days  in  a  bath  of  sulphate  of 
copper,  when  the  picture  was  found  to  be 


sulphate  of  iron  and  water,  and  then  reduced  |  more  developed.     After  several  rinsings  in 


in  strength  and  made  ready  for  use  each  day. 
For  the  stock  solution  take  water,  16  ounces ; 
sulphate  of  iron,  4  ounces.  Dissolve  and  fil- 
ter. "When  wanted  for  use,  take  stock  solu- 
tion, 1  ounce ;  water,  4  ounces ;  acetic  acid 


(No.  8),  i  ounce.    The  addition  of  about  £  tapioca  paper,  which  is  very  useful  for  copy- 
ing   photographs    by    artificial     light,    200 


ounce  alcohol  to  the  above  formula  often  faci- 
litates the  smooth  flowing  of  the  solution  on 
the  plate.  It  is  particularly  essential  when 
the  bath  has  been  in  long  use  and  is  "satu- 
rated" with  ether  and  alcohol  from  the  plates. 
3152.  Re-developing  Solution,  for 
adding  vigor  and  intensity  to  the  negative,  is 


made  of  water,  1  ounce ; 
grain ;  citric  acid,  1  grain. 


pyrogallic  acid,  1 
Pour  into  a  small 


beaker  or  cupping  glass  about  1  ounce  of  this 
solution,  and  add,  by  means  of  a  pipette,  5  or 
6  drops  of  a  solution  of  20  grains  nitrate  of 
silver  dissolved  in  1  ounce  water.  Imme- 
diately flow  this  solution  over  the  plate,  occa- 
sionally returning  the  solution  to  the  little 
beaker  glass.  As  soon  as  the  solution  begins 
to  assume  a  wine  color,  it  is  acting  with  vigor 
on  the  negative  and  should  be  closely  watched, 
that  the  negative  does  not  become  too  intense. 
When  sufficiently  dense,  throw  away  the  solu- 
tion and  thoroughly  wash  both  the  negative 
and  the  glass.  The  latter  should  always  bo 
kept  perfectly  clean  and  free  from  any  deposit 
from  the  re-developing  solutions. 

3153.  Negative  Varnish  of  excellent 
quality  can  always  be  secured  at  the  dealers 
in  photographic  materials.    In  an  emergency 
common  shellac  varnish,  somewhat  thinned 
down  with  alcohol,  and  filtered  through  cotton, 
will  answer  the  purpose.     (See  No.  2935.) 

3154.  The  Causes  of  Failure  would 
almost  require  a  chapter  by  themselves;  a  long 
experience  convinces  us  that  nine  out  of  every 
ten  failures  occur  from  a  want  of  care,  the 
presence  of  dirt,  negligence.     One  cannot  be 
over-nice,  careful  or  cleanly — the  best  results 
always  rewarding  the  most  painstaking. 

3155.  To  Enamel  Cameo  Pictures. 
Ordinary  well  polished  glass  plates  are  coated 


water,  and  two  days'  exposure  on  the  grass, 
the  rest  of  the  goods  were  bleached  white, 
leaving  the  picture  of  a  pure  violet  tint  on  a 
white  background. 

3157.      Tapioca    Paper.      To    prepare 


grammes  (6J  Troy  ounces)  of  tapioca  are 
soaked  for  2  days  in  an  equal  weight  of  wa- 
ter ;  10  litres  (about  21  pints)  of  water  are 
added,  and  afterwards,  for  every  litre  (quart) 
of  liquid,  10  grammes  (154  grains)  iodide  of 
potassium,  30  grammes  (463  grains)  chloride  of 
potassium,  1  gramme  (15£  grains)  bromide  of 
potassium,  are  dissolved,  and  the  whole 
boiled  for  10  minutes,  allowed  to  stand  for  a 
day,  and  decanted  and  filtered  through  fine 
linen.  The  paper  is  immersed,  12  or  20  sheets 
at  a  time — or  can  be  floated  upon  it — for  15 
to  20  minutes  ;  it  is  then  hung  up  to  dry  in  a 
dark  room.  If  it  has  assumed  a  dark  color, 
that  is  of  no  consequence,  as  it  disappears  in 
the  silver  bath.  This  is  to  be  prepared  in  the 
proportion  of  1  ounce  nitrate  of  silver,  50  to 
60  grains  of  citric  acid  in  30  ounces  of  water. 
The  time  of  exposure  varies  from  10  seconds 
to  25  minutes,  according  to  the  picture  to  be 
copied  and  the  actinic  force  of  the  light. 

3158.  To  Recover  Gold  and  Silver 
from  Photographic  Solutions.  The 
silver  and  gold  waste  that  result  from  photo- 
graphic operations  are  be^t  collected  in  a 
large  bottle  or  jar,  together  with  anything 
else  that  might  contain  either  of  the  two 
metals.  "When  the  bottle  is  nearly  full,  pour 
a  little  hydrochloric  acid  and  a  solution  of 
green  sulphate  of  iron  (copperas)  into  it, 
and  let  it  stand  on  a  warm  place  until  the 
supernatant  liquid  appears  perfectly  clear. 
Add  then  a  few  drops  more  of  the  hydrochloric 
acid  and  iron  solution,  and  observe  whether  a 
fresh  precipitate  forms  or  not.  In  the  latter 
case,  draw  the  clear  liquid  off  by  means  of 
a  syphon,  and  reserve  the  residue.  If  the 
bottle  has  become  partially  filled  in  course  of 


29O 


PHOTOGEAPHY. 


time  with  insoluble  chloride  of  silver  and 
metallic  gold,  place  the  residue  on  a  filter, 
wash  it  with  very  dilute  acid,  and,  lastly, 
with  water.  After  drying,  it  is  to  be  mixed 
with  several  times  its  weight  of  dry  carbonate 
of  soda,  the  whole  conveyed  to  a  crucible,  and 
the  latter  heated  to  a  bright  red  heat,  and 
kept  there  for  about  10  minutes.  After  taking 
the  crucible  out  of  the  fire,  and  allowing  it  to 
grow  cold,  it  is  broken,  the  button  of  the 
alloy  of  gold  and  silver  cleaned,  and  heated  in 
a  suitable  vessel  with  dilute  nitric  acid,  which 
will  dissolve  all  the  silver,  as  nitrate  of  silver, 
and  leave  the  gold  in  a  finely  divided  state. 
This  is  dissolved  by  nitro-hydrochloric  acid 
(aqua  regia).  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say 
that,  for  photographic  purposes,  both  solutions 
must  be  evaporated  in  a  water-bath  until  the 
excess  of  acid  has  been  volatilized,  when  they 
may  be  diluted  with  a  sufficient  amount  of 
water,  and  used.  (See  No.  3166.) 

3159.  Simple  Method   of  Copying 
Drawings,  Etc.     Silvered   albumen  paper, 
after  being  washed,   may    be    conveniently 
used  for  copying  negatives  as  well  as  posi- 
tives.     It    keeps    for  weeks,   and    becomes 
sensitive  to  light  only  after  exposure  to  the 
vapors  of  aqua  ammonia,  technically  termed 
smoking  with  ammonia.    Dr.  H.  Yogel  has 
greatly  simplified  the  latter  process  by  substi- 
tuting for  the  liquid  ammonia  the  powder  of 
carbonate  of  ammonia.    He  thoroughly  im- 
pregnates a  piece  of  felt  or  cloth  with  this 
powder,  and  lays  it  under  the  silvered  sheet, 
separated  from  it  by  a  piece  of  blotting-paper. 
He  places  the  silvered  paper,  with  the  sub- 
stratum of  carbonate  of  ammonia  and    the 
drawing  on  top,  between  two  plates  of  glass, 
and,  exposing  it  to  the  light  of  the  window, 
obtains  a  copy  quite  distinct  in  all  its  details. 
The  copy  obtained  is,  of  course,  in  white  lines 
upon  black  ground.     Such  photographs  re- 
quire to  be  treated  with  soda  when  intended 
for  long  preservation. 

3160.  Lea's    Solution  for  Cleaning 
Photographic    Glasses.      "Water,  1  pint; 
sulphuric  acid,  k  ounce ;   bichromate  potash, 
J    ounce.      The  glass    plates,  varnished    or 
otherwise,  are  left,  say  10  or  12  hours,  or  as 
much  longer  as  desired,  in  this  solution,  and 
then  rinsed  in  clean  water,   and  wiped  or 
rubbed  dry  with  soft  white  paper.     This  pre- 
paration is  by  Mr.  Carey  Lea,  of  Philadelphia, 
and  is  said  to  be  the  best  in  use.     It  quickly 
removes  silver  stains  from  the  skin  without 
any  of  the  attendant  dangers  of  the  cyanide 
of  potassium. 

3161.  "Wenderoth's     Photographic 
Varnish.     Nearly  all  photographic  varnishes 
reduce  the  intensity  of  the  negative.    Mr.  F. 
A.  Wenderoth,  of  Philadelphia,  states  that  if 
a  thin  solution  of1  gum-arabic  is  applied  to  the 
negative  after  fixing  and  before  drying,  the 
varnish  will  not  affect  the  intensity.     This  is 
a  very  simple  and  useful  remedy.     Mr.  "Wen- 
deroth  also  states  that  he  has  long  practiced 
the  covering  of  photographic    paper   prints 
upon  both  sides  with  collodion  varnish,  and 
finds  it  a  complete  preservative  of  the  picture. 
Nearly  all  photographs  will  fade  away  in  a 
few  years  unless  thus  protected. 

3162.  Collodion  Varnish  for  Photo- 
graphic   Prints.      A    very  effective    and 
agreeable  polish  is  communicated  to  card  or 


cabinet  prints,  etc.,  simply  by  coating  them 
with  a  glutinous  plain  collodion,  made  as 
follows  :  Alcohol,  3  ounces ;  ether,  4  ounces  ; 
pyroxyliue,  42  grains.  Dissolve  and  filter  in 
the  i\sual  manner.  The  prints  are  first  cut 
to  the  proper  size  and  floated  on  the  reverse 
side  upon  clean  water  until  they  lie  perfectly 
flat ;  then  take  one  print  at  a  time  and  place 
it  on  a  piece  of  glass  of  the  same  size  as  itself, 
moist  side  downwards ;  it  easily  adheres  to 
the  glass.  Let  the  excess  of  water  drain  off, 
and  remove  all  moisture  from  the  picture 
surface ;  now  coat  it  with  the  collodion  and 
let  it  drain  in  the  usual  way,  then  dry  it  be- 
fore the  fire  or  in  any  manner  which  is  most 
convenient.  This  polish  is  not  so  flagrant  on 
the  one  hand  as  the  so-called  enamel  surface, 
nor  so  dead  as  an  ordinary  albumen  print  that 
has  undergone  all  the  operations  up  to  the 
mounting. 

3163.  Preservation  of  Photographs. 
H.  Cooper,  Jr.,  of  England,  gives  the  follow- 
ing formula  for  a  preservative  varnish  which 
is  stated  to  be  an  entire  protection  against 
fading :  1  drachm  gum  damar  dissolved  in  1 
ounce  benzole.  1  drachm  paraffine,  dissolved 
in  1  ounce  benzole.  Mix  4  parts  of  the 
paraffine  solution  with  1  part  of  the  damar 
solution.  Photographic  prints  covered  with 
this  varnish  are  impermeable  to  water.  A 
solution  of  the  paraffine  only  will  do  ;  but  it 
is  better  with  the  gum  damar. 

3164.  Everlasting  Photographs  on 
Enamel.       First-class    photographs,   either 
negatives    or   positives,  may  be    taken    on 
Duchemin's   enamel   (see  No.  2402)   without 
collodion,    by  using   bitumen,   or  citrate   of 
iron,  or  perchloride  of  iron  and  tartaric  acid, 
or  bichromate,  or  any  other  salt.    A'  good 
solution  for  this  purpose  is,  water,  100  parts 
by  weight ;    gum,  4  parts :   honey,  1  part ; 
pulverized    bichromate    of   potash,   3    parts 
Filter  the  liquid,  spread  it  over  the  enamel, 
and  let  it  rest,  after  which,  expose  it  to  the 
camera.      Develop    the    image  by  brushing 
over  it  the  following  powder :  Oxide  of  cobalt, 
180  parts  by  weight ;  black  oxide  of  iron,  90 
parts;    red  lead,  100  parts;   sand,  30  parts. 
Decompose  the  bichromate  by  immersion  in  a 
bath  formed  of  water,  100  parts  by  weight ; 
hydrochloric  acid,  5  parts.     Wash  it  in  clean 
water  and  dry  it ;  and  lastly,  vitrefy  the  proof 
on  a  clean  piece  of  cast  iron,  the  surface  of 
which  has  been    previously  chalked.      One 
minute  will  suffice  for  indelibly  fixing   and 
glazing  the  photograph,  which  must  be  care- 
fully and  slowly  allowed  to   cool.      Photo- 
graphs on  enamel  of  any  size,  taken  in  this 
manner,  are  perfectly  unalterable  under  all 
atmospheric  conditions,  and  may  consequently 
and  aptly  be  called  everlasting  photographs. 

3165.  Searing's    Process  for  Photo- 
graphing   on    Wood     for    Engraving. 
The  block  on  which  the  picture  is  to  be  made 
is  first  dampened  with  water,  then  whitened 
with  enamel  rubbed  from  the  surface  of  good 
enameled    visiting    cards.      Rub  gently,  re- 
moving only  the   enamel,  after  which  it  is 
brushed  smooth  with  a  moderately  stiff  brush, 
from  right  to  left  and  up  and  down,  making  a 
smooth,  even,  and  very  thin  surface.     Allow 
this  to  dry,  after  which   it  is  flowed  with  a 
solution  of  albumen,  made  with  the  white  of 
1  egg  and  16  ounces  of  water,  dried  by  heat 


PHOTOGRAPHY. 


291 


Now  coafl  and 


or  allowed  to  dry  spontaneously, 
it  with  another  albumen  solution  made  as 
follows:  "White  of  1  egg:  water,  4  ounces; 
chloride  of  ammonia,  40  grains.  Beat  the 
whole  to  a  thick  froth.  Allow  to  subside, 
then  decant  or  filter  through  a  fine  sponge 
placed  in  a  glass  funnel.  Pour  a  sufficient 
quantity  on  one  corner  of  the  block  to  cover 
it,  when  spread  around  with  the  aid  of  a  £  or 
£  glass. (using  the  edge).  Allow  the  surplus 
solution  to  drain  back  into  the  bottle.  Dry 
this  by  a  gentle  heat.  Next  flow  on,  in  the 
dark  room,  solution  No.  3,  prepared  as  fol- 
lows: Ether,  1  ounce;  alcohol,  1  ounce; 
gun-cotton,  8  grains ;  nitrate  of  silver,  30 
grains ;  dissolve  in  as  small  a  quantity  of  wa- 
ter as  possible,  and  allow  to  settle  for  a  few 
days,  protected  from  the  light.  Again  dry 
the  block  by  gentle  heat.  It  is  now  ready  for 
exposure  under  the  negative.  A  porcelain 
printing-frame,  or  any  other  suitable  method, 
may  be  used  to  print  it.  After  printing, 
solution  No.  3  is  removed  from  the  surface  of 
the  block  by  dissolving  in  ether  and  alcohol, 
assisted  by  rubbing  gently  with  a  soft  sponge. 
The  picture  can  now  be  toned  and  fixed  in 
the  ordinary  way,  or  fixed  and  toned  at  one 
operation,  by  the  hypo  and  gold  bath.  After 
being  allowed  to  dry,  it  is  ready  for  the 
engraver. 

3166.  To  Recover  Silver  from  Photo- 
graphic Waste.     To  obtain  the  silver  from 
a  photographic  bath,  or  from  the  rejected 
photographs    and    clippings,   is  a  most  im- 
portant measure  of  economy  in  the  art.     The 
bath   should   bo  filtered,   and  a  solution  of 
common  salt  added ;  this  precipitates  chloride 
of  silver,  which  is  to  be  collected  on  a  filter, 
dried,  and  washed;    then  the  metallic  silver 
may  be   obtained  from  it  by  the  action  of 
metallic  zinc,  a  strip  of  which  being  placed  in 
the    pulpy    mass,    will    combine    with    the 
chloride,    and  leave  the   silver  in  a  spongy 
mass  of  a  gray  color ;  after  washing,  this  may 
be  dissolved  in  nitric  acid  and  crystallized. 
Another  process  is  to  mix  tho  chloride  with 
nitrate  of  potassa  and  fuse  in  a  crucible — the 
silver  is  thus  obtained  in  a  button.      The 
papers  must  be  incinerated,  the  ashes  collect- 
ed  and   treated  with  nitric   acid   and  heat; 
diluted  with  water,  and  filtered ;    it  is  now 
an  impure  solution  of  silver,  to  be  treated  in 
the  same  way  as  the  bath.     (See  No.  3158.) 

3167.  To  Clean  off  Collodion  Pic- 
tures.    A  tuft  of  cotton  dipped  in  methylic 
alcohol,  and  rubbed  over  tho  surface  of  the 
picture,  will  remove  it  entirely,  whether  var- 
nished or  not. 

3168.  Paper  for  Photography.     The 
paper  used  for  photography  may  be  the  finest 
satin   post  paper,   of  uniform    texture,   free 
from   the  maker's  mark,  specks,  and  all  im- 
perfections.    The  papers  must  be  prepared  by 
candle-light,  and  kept  in  tho  dark  till  used. 

3169.  Simple  Nitrated  Paper.     This 
is  merely  paper  brushed  over  with  a  strong 
solution   of  nitrate  of  silver.      In  brushing 
over  the  paper  it  must  not  be  crossed.    Its 
sensitiveness  is  increased  by  using  spirits  of 
wine    instead    of  water.      This   paper  only 
requires  washing  in  water  to  fix  the  drawing. 

3170.  Muriated  Paper.     The  paper  is 
first    soaked    in    solution  of  common    salt, 
pressed  with  a  linen  cloth  or  blotting-paper, 


dried.  It  is  then  brushed  over  on  one 
side  (which  should  be  marked  near  the  edge) 
with  the  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver,  and 
dried  at  the  fire.  The  stronger  the  solution, 
the  more  sensitive  the  paper.  If  the  barytic 
solution  (see  No.  3181)  be  used  instead  of 
common  salt,  richer  shades  of  color  are  ob- 
tained. A  solution  of  10  grains  sal  ammoniac 
in  1  ounce  water  gives  a  very  sensitive  paper. 
A  due  proportion  must  be  observed  in  the 
silver  and  salt  solutions,  as  follows : 

Sensitive  paper  for  the  camera,  use  50 
grains  common  salt  to  1  ounce  water ;  and 
120  grains  nitrate  of  silver  to  1  ounce  water. 
Or:  60  grains  of  the  nitrate  with  40  grains 
muriate  of  ammonia,  and  4  ounces  water. 
Or:  100  grains  nitrate  with  the  barytic  solu- 
tion. (See  No.  3181.) 

Less  sensitive,  for  copying  engravings, 
botanical  and  entomological  specimens,  <fec. 
The  salt  solution  to  contain  25  grains  salt  to 
1  ounce  water.  The  silver  solution  90  grains 
in  1  ounce  water. 

Forcopying  lace-work,  feathers,  patterns,  &c. 
The  salt  solution,  20  grains ;  the  silver  solu- 
tion, 40  grains  to  1  ounce.  To  fix  the  draw- 
ing on  these  papers,  they  must  be  first  washed 
in  lukewarm  water,  then  dipped  twice  in 
solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  (1  ounce  to  1 
pint),  then  in  pure  water,  and  dried. 

3171.  Iodized  Paper.     Brush  over  the 
paper  on  one  side  (which  should  be  marked) 
with  strong  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  (100 
grains  to  1  ounce);  then  dip  it  in  solution  of 
iodide  of  potassium  (25  grains  to  1  ounce) ; 
wash  it  in  distilled  water,  drain,  and  dry  it. 

3172.  Bromide  Paper.     Soak  the  paper 
in  solution  of  bromide  oi  potassium  (40  grains 
to  1  ounce) ;  then  brush  it  over  with  strong 
solution  of  nitrate  of  silver,  and  dry  in  the 
dark. 

3173.  Chromatype    Paper.      Simple 
chromatype  paper  is    prepared    as  follows : 
Soak  the  paper  in  the  simple  solution  (see  No. 
3182),  and  dry  it  at  a  brisk  fire.    To  fix  the 
drawing,  careful  immersion  in  warm  water  is 
all  that  is  required.    •  It  is  not  sufficiently 
sensitive  for  the  camera. 

For  COMPOUND  CHROMATYPE  PAPER. 
"Wash  the  paper  with  the  compound  solution 
(see  No.  3182),  and  dry  it.  After  the  paper 
has  been  exposed  to  the  sun  with  the  article 
to  be  copied  superposed  upon  it,  it  is  washed 
over  in  the  dark  with  a  solution  of  nitrate  of 
silver  of  moderate  strength.  A  vivid  picture 
makes  its  appearance,  which  is  sufficiently 
fixed  by  washing  in  pure  water.  For  copying 
engravings,  &c.  Another  method  is  to  brush 
writing  paper  over  with  a  solution  of  1  drachm 
of  sulphate  of  copper  in  1  ounce  of  water; 
and  when  dry,  with  a  strong  but  not  saturated 
solution  of  bichromate  of  potash. 

3174.  Cyanotype   Paper.     Brash  the 
paper  over  with  a  solution  of  amrnonio-citrate 
of  iron.     Expose  the  paper  in  the  usual  way, 
then  wash  it  over  with  a  solution  of  ferro- 
cyanide  of  potassium. 

3175.  Crysotype  Paper.     "Wash  the 
paper  with  solution  of  arumonio-citrate  of 
iron,  dry  it,  and  afterwards  brush  it  over  with 
a  solution  of  ferrocyanide  of  potassium.     Dry 
it  in  a  dark  room.     The  image  is  brought  out 
by  brushing  it  over  with  a  neutral  solution  of 
gold  or  of  silver. 


292 


METALS. 


3176.  Calotype  Paper.     The  paper  is 
saturated  in   1   ounce  water,   containing  20 
grains  iodide  of  potassium,  and  dried.     Then 
made  sensitive  by  soaking  in  1  ounce  distilled 
water  containing  20  grains  nitrate  of  silver 
and  i  drachm  glacial  acetic  acid,  and  dried  in 
a  dark  room. 

3177.  Instantaneous  Positive  Paper. 
Mix  6  drachms  of   a  saturated  solution  of 
bichloride  of  mercury  with  1  pint  distilled  wa- 
ter.    Float  the  paper  on  this  solution  in  a 
flat  dish.     Dry  it ;  take  into  a  dark  place  lit 
by  a  candle  with  a  yellow  glass,  and  render  it 
sensitive  by  a  solution  of  38  grains  nitrate  of 
silver  to  1  ounce  water.     To  print,  expose  to 
a  perpendicular  light  from  2  to  10  seconds  in 
summer,   about    1    minute  in  winter;    then 
immediately  cover  with  a  black  cloth.    The 
image,  at  first  very  feeble,  is  developed  by 
this   solution ;    sulphate  of  iron,  15  grains ; 
glacial  acetic  acid,  25  grains ;  distilled  water, 
1  ounce.      The  deepening  of  tint  must  be 
watched,  and  arrested  at  the  proper  moment. 
Then  wash,  and  fix  with  hyposulphite. 

3178.  Albumenized  Paper  for  Posi- 
tive Printing.     "White  of  egg,  and  water, 
equal  parts ;  iodide  of  potassium  or  chloride 
of  sodium,  5  grains  to  1  ounce  water  (or  bro- 
mide of  potassium,  20  grains).    Coat  the  paper 
with  this  solution.      Dry.    Immerse  in  the 
dark  in  bath  of  120  grains  nitrate  of  silver  to 
1  ounce  water.    Dry  again.     This  is  exposed 
with  the  negative  over  it,  for  10  to  15  minutes. 

3179.  Prepared  Wax   Paper.    Make 
a  strong  size  by  digesting  25  parts  gelatine, 
50  of  linseed,  and  150  of  rice  flour,  in  2000  to 
3000  parts  hot  water.    Filter  through  a  cloth. 
Take  of  this  size,  when  cold,  1000  parts  by 
weight,  and  dissolve  in  it  sugar  of  milk,  50 
parts:    iodide  of  potassium,  35;   bromide  of 
potassium,  5  parts. 

3180.  Artificial  Ivory  for  Photo- 
graphers. Sheets  or  tablets  of  gelatine  or 
glue  are  immersed  in  a  solution  of  alumina. 
"When  entirely  penetrated  by  the  alumina,  the 
slabs  are  to  be  removed,  dried,  and  polished 
like  ivory.  (Mayall.) 

3181.  Barytic  Photographic  Solution. 
Dissolve  35   grains  chloride  of  barium  in  2 
ounces  distilled  water. 

3182.  Chromate  Photographic  Solu- 
tions.    Simple  chromatc  solution  is   a  sat- 
urated solution  of  bichromate  of  potash ;   a 
little  sulphate  of  indigo  being  sometimes  add- 
ed to  vary  the  color. 

The  compound  chromate  solution  consists 
of  10  grains  bichromate  of  potash,  and  20 
grains  sulphate  of  copper,  dissolved  in  1  ounce 
distilled  water. 

3183.  Hydriodate  of  Iron  and  Bary- 
tes  Photographic  Solution.     Hydriodate 
of  barytes,  40  grains;  water,  1  ounce;  pure 
sulphate  of  iron,  5  grams;  mix,  filter,  add  a 

'  drop  or  two  diluted  sulphuric  acid,  and  when 
settled  decant  the  clear  liquor  for  use. 

3184.  Hardwich's  Gold  Toning  Bath 
for  Positive  Printing.     Pure  chloride  of 
gold,  1  grain;   hyposulphite  of  soda,  1  to  3 
grains;  hydrochloric  acid,  4  minims;  water,  4 
ounces. 

3185.  May  all's  Method  of  Cleaning 
Photographic  Glasses.     Shake  up  together 
30  parts  alcohol,  10  parts  strong  liquid  am- 
monia, 40  parts  water,  and  30  parts  fine  Tri- 


poli. The  plates  are  to  be  rubbed  hard  and 
evenly  with  balls  of  cotton-wool  dipped  in 
the  mixture.  "When  dry,  rub  again  with  a 
clean  ball  of  cotton,  and  dust  off  the  back 
and  edges  with  a  clean  hog's-hair  brash. 


Metals.  Metals  are  elementary  or 
undecompounded  bodies,  which  are 
distinguished  by  their  weight,  lustre,  fusibility, 
power  of  conducting  heat,  electricity,  &c. 
(see  Nos.  3349  to  3357  inclusive),  and  the 
numerous  compounds  which  they  furnish  by 
combination  with  one  another,  and  with  other 
bodies.  "When  their  solutions  are  decomposed 
by  a  galvanic  current,  the  metals  always  ap- 
pear at  the  electro-negative  surface,  and  are 
hence  termed  electro-positive  bodies. 

3187.  Assaying.  The  method  of  de- 
termining the  quantity  of  pure  gold  and  silver 
in  the  alloys  of  these  metals.  -This  art  re- 
quires great  skill  and  experience  in  its  per- 
formance; and,  from  the  costliness  of  the 
precious  metals,  is  of  the  utmost  importance. 
A  downward  draught  furnace  of  any  shape 
and  size  may  be  employed,  provided  it  will 
afford  a  sufficient  heat,  and  allow  the  intro- 
duction of  the  muffle.  The  muffle  is  a  pot 
made  of  clay,  and  furnished  with  an  opening 
at  its  end,  to  admit  the  introduction  of  the 
cupels,  and  to  allow  of  inspection,  of  the  pro- 
cess. It  is  placed  on  the  muffle-plate,  by 
which  it  is  introduced  into  the  furnace.  The 
cupel  is  a  sort  of  shallow  crucible,  made  of 
bone  ashes  or  burnt  bones.  At  the  British 
mint  the  cupels  are  made  of  the  calcined  cores 
of  ox-horns.  The  powder  is  slightly  moisten- 
ed with  water,  and  a  circular  steel  mould  is 
filled  therewith,  and  after  being  pressed  down 
tight,  is  finished  off  with  a  rammer,  having  a 
convex  face  of  polished  steel,  which  is  struck 
forcibly  with  a  mallet,  until  the  mass  becomes 
sufficiently  hard  and  adherent.  The  cupel  is 
then  carefully  removed,  and  exposed  in  the 
air  to  dry,  which  usually  takes  from  14  to  21 
days.  The  muffle,  with  the  cupels  properly 
arranged,  being  placed  in  tho  furnace,  the  lat- 
ter is  filled  up  with  charcoal,  and  lighted  at 
the  top  by  placing  a  few  pieces,  heated  to 
whiteness,  on  last.  "When  the  cupels  have 
been  exposed  for  half  an  hour,  and  have  be- 
come white  by  heat,  the  lead  is  put  into  thorn 
by  means  of  a  pair  of  tongs,  and  as  soon  as 
this  becomes  thoroughly  red  and  circulating, 
as  it  is  called,  the  metal  to  be  assayed,  wrap- 
ped in  a  small  piece  of  paper,  is  added,  and 
the  fire  kept  up  strongly  until  the  metal  enters 
the  lead,  and  circulates  well,  when  the  heat 
may  be  slightly  diminished,  and  so  regulated 
that  the  assay  shall  appear  convex  and  ardent, 
while  the  cupel  is  less  red — that  the  undula- 
tions shall  circulate  in  all  directions,  and  that 
the  middle  of  the  metal  shall  appear  smooth, 
surrounded  with  a  small  circle  of  litharge, 
which  is  being  continually  absorbed  by  the 
cupel.  This  treatment  must  be  continued 
until  the  metal  becomes  bright  and  shining, 
or  is  t-aid  to  "lighten ;"  after  which  certain 
prismatic  colors,  or  rainbow  hues,  suddenly 
flash  across  the  globules,  and  undulate  and 
cross  each  other,  and  the  latter  metal  soon 
after  appears  very  brilliant  and  clear,  and  at 
length  becomes  fixed  and  solid.  This  is  called 


GOLD. 


293 


the  "brightening,"  and  shows  that  the  separa- 
tion is  ended.  In  conducting  this  process,  all 
the  materials  used  must  be  accurately  weigh- 
ed, especially  the  weight  of  the  alloy  before 
cupellation,  and  the  resulting  button  of  pure 
metal.  The  difference  gives  the  quantity  of 
alloy.  The  preceding  general  description  of 
the  process  of  cupellation  will  render  the  fol- 
lowing articles  intelligible,  without  again  en- 
tering into  the  minutiae  of  the  operation.  An 
assay  is  thought  to  be  good  when  the  bead  is 
of  a  round  form,  with  its  upper  surface  bril- 
liant, its  lower  one  granular  and  dead- white, 
and  when  it  separates  readily  from  the  cupel. 
"When  the  surface  of  the  bead  is  dull  and  flat, 
it  shows  that  too  much  heat  has  been  em- 
ployed ;  and  if  the  metal  be  silver,  some  may 
have  been  lost  in  the  process,  by  fuming  or 
absorption.  "When  the  bead  is  spongy,  and 
of  various  colors,  and  scales  of  litharge  still 
remain  on  the  cupel,  and  the  metal  adheres 
strongly  to  the  latter,  too  little  heat  has  been 
used,  and  the  button  still  retains  some  lead. 
To  remedy  this,  the  heat  should  be  raised,  and 
a  little  powdered  charcoal,  or  a  few  small 
pieces  of  paper,  thrown  into  the  cupel,  until 
the  metal  again  begins  to  circulate  freely.  It 
is  necessary  that  the  lead  employed  in  the 
process  of  cupellation  should  be  perfectly 
pure.  It  ought,  therefore,  to  bo  procured  by 
reducing  refined  litharge.  (Cooley.) 

3188.  Puscher's  Solution  for  Coloring 
Metals.  This  is  a  new  method  of  giving 
metals  a  durable  colored  coating,  and  can  be 
executed  quickly  and  cheaply.  To  prepare 
the  solution  dissolve  1£  ounces  hyposulphite 
of  soda  in  1  pound  water,  and  add  1  h  ounces 
acetate  of  lead  dissolved  in  k  pound  of  water. 
"When  this  clear  solution  is  heated  to  190°  to 
210°  Fahr.,  it  decomposes  slowly,  and  precip- 
itates sulphide  of  lead  in  brown  flocks.  If 
metal  is  now  immersed  in  it  a  part  of  the  sul- 
phide of  lead  is  deposited  thereon,  and  accord- 
ing to  the  length  of  time  and  consequent 
thickness  of  the  deposited  sulphide  of  lead, 
the  various  and  beautiful  lustre  colors  are  pro- 
duced. In  5  minutes  there  may  be  imparted 
to  brass  articles  a  color  varying  from  a  beau- 
tiful gold  to  a  copper  red ;  then  carmine  red ; 
then  dark,  then  light  aniline  blue,  to  a  blue 
white,  like  sulphide  of  lead;  and  at  last  a 
reddish  white,  according  to  the  length  of  time 
they  remain  in  the  solution  used.  The  colors 
possess  the  most  beautiful  lustre,  and  if  the 
articles  to  be  colored  have  been  previously 
thoroughly  cleaned  by  means  of  acids  and 
alkalies,  they  adhere  so  firmly  that  they  may 
be  operated  upon  by  the  polishing  steel.  To 
produce  an  even  coloring,  the  articles  to  be 
colored  must  be  evenly  heated. 

Iron  treated  with  this  solution  takes  a  steel 
blue  color;  zinc,  a  brown  color;  in  the  case 
of  copper  objects  the  first  gold  color  does  not 
appear ;  lead  and  zinc  are  entirely  indifferent. 

If,  instead  of  the  acetate  of  lead,  an  equal 
weight  of  sulphuric  acid  be  added  to  the  hypo- 
sulphite of  soda,  and  the  process  earned  on 
as  before,  the  brass  is  covered  with  a  very 
beautiful  red,  which  is  followed  by  a  green, 
and  changes  finally  to  a  splendid  brown  with 
green  and  red  iris-glitter ;  this  last  is  a  very 
durable  coating,  and  may  find  special  atten- 
tion in  manufactures.  (See  No.  3313.) 

Yery  beautiful  niarbleized  designs  can  be 


produced  by  using  a  lead  solution  thickened 
with  gum  tragacanth  on  brass  which  has 
been  heated  to  210°  Fahr.,  and  afterwards 
treated  by  the  usual  solution  of  sulphide  of 
lead.  The  solution  may  be  used  several 
times,  and  is  not  liable  to  spontaneous  change. 


Gold..  The  most  marked  properties  of 
metallic  gold  are  its  ductility,  malleabil- 
ity, and  insolubility  in  all  menstrua,  except 
aqua  regia  and  aqueous  chlorine,  and  its  slight 
affinity  for  oxygen.  Native  gold  has  a  spe- 
cific gravity  of  13.3  to  17.7  ;  pure  gold,  about 
19.3;  its  greatest  density  is  19.5.  Its  fu- 
sing point  is  2016°  Fahr.  It  is  characterized 
by  its  yellow  color,  its  insolubility  in  nitric 
acid,  and  ready  solution  in  nitromuriatic  acid 
(aqua  regia),  forming  a  yellow  liquid  that 
stains  the  skin  purple. 

3190.  Assay  of  Gold  by  the  Use  of 
Touch-Stones.     "When  it  is  desired  to  as- 
certain the  fineness  of  small  quantities  of 
gold,  as  in   jewelry,  <fcc.,  touch-needles  and 
stones  are  employed.     The  former  are  made 
in  sets,  containing  gold  of  different  fineness 
and  differently  alloyed  with  copper  and  sil- 
ver.    Pieces  of  black  pottery  form  excellent 
touch-stones.    The  mode  of  using  them  is  to 
mark  the  stone  with  the  sample  under  exam- 
ination, and  to  compare  its  appearance,  hard 
ness,  <fcc.,  with  that  produced  by  one  or  more 
of  the  needles.    "When  the  two  are  similar, 
the  quality  is  considered   to  be  the  same. 
They  are  then  further  examined  by  moisten- 
ing the  stroke  with  aquafortis  when  red  hot, 
when  the  appearances  resulting  from  oxida 
tion,  etc.,  differ  according  to  the  nature  and 
quantity  of  the  alloy. 

3191.  Assay  of  Gold  by  Cupellation. 
This  process  is  divided  into  five  operations. 

Cupellation.  Either  6  or  12  grains  of  the 
alloy  is  the  weight  usually  taken  for  the  assay, 
to  which  is  added  16  parts  of  lead  for  every  1 
part  of  copper  that  it  is  presumed  to  contain, 
though  considerably  more  lead  may  be  used 
when  the  sample  does  not  contain  any  silver ; 
but  if  the  reverse  be  the  case,  an  excess  of 
lead  would  tend  to  the  loss  of  the  latter 
metal,  which  ought  not  to  be  separated  until 
the  operation  of  parting.  When  silver  is 
present  an  additional  allowance  of  lead,  equal 
to  i*a  of  its  weight,  is  made  on  that  account. 
"When,  however,  the  quantity  of  silver  is 
small,  or  is  not  required  to  be  estimated,  it 
becomes  of  little  consequence  what  weight  of 
lead  is  employed,  so  long  as  enough  be  used 
to  carry  off  the  base  metals,  fit  the  same  time 
that  the  quantity  is  not  too  large  for  the 
cupel.  The  sample  is  then  submitted  to  cu- 
pellation. This  process  does  not  require  so 
much  care  for  gold  as  silver,  as  none  of  this 
metal  is  absorbed  by  the  cupel,  or  lost  by 
evaporation,  and  i.t  will  safely  bear  the  high- 
st  heat  of  the  furnace  without  injury.  In 
other  respects  the  operation  may  be  conduct- 
ed in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  for  silver. 
(See  No.  3206.) 

Quartation.  After  gold  has  passed  thp 
cupel,  it  may  still  retain  either  of  the  other 
perfect  metals,  particularly  silver.  To  re- 
move the  latter  it  undergoes  the  operations 
of  quartation  and  parting.  Quartatiou  is 


294, 


GOLD. 


performed  by  adding  3  parts  of  silver  to  one 
of  the  cupelled  sample,  and  fusing  them  to- 
gether, by  which  the  gold  is  reduced  to  one 
fourth  of  the  mass,  or  even  less;  hence  the 
name.  In  this  state  nitric  acid  will  dissolve 
out  the  silver,  which  brings  us  to  the  next 
operation.  In  many  cases  the  operation  of 
quartation  is  performed  conjointly  with  that 
of  cupellation. 

Parting.  The  alloy  of  gold  and  silver 
formed  by  quartation  is  next  hammered  or 
rolled  out  into  a  thin  strip  or  leaf,  curled  up 
into  a  spiral  form,  and  submitted  to  the  ac- 
tion of  nitric  acid,  specific  gravity  1.3,  dilu- 
ted with  half  its  weight  of  water ;  this  being 
poured  off,  another  quantity  of  acid,  of  about 
1.26,  and  undiluted,  may  be  employed.  In 
each  case  the  acid  should  be  boiled  upon  the 
alloy  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  In  the 
first  case  the  quantity  of  fluid  should  be  about 
2£  ounces,  and  in  the  second  li  ounces.  The 
second  part  of  the  operation  of  parting  is 
called  the  reprise.  If  the  acid  be  used  too 
strong  it  leaves  the  gold  in  a  state  of  powder, 
otherwise  the  metal  preserves  its  form 
throughout  the  process  of  parting.  It  is  next 
carefully  collected,  washed,  and  dried. 

Annealing.  The  sample  of  pure  gold  has 
now  only  to  be  annealed,  which  is  done  by 
putting  it  into  a  small  porous  crucible,  and 
heating  it  to  redness  in  the  muffle. 

Weighing.  The  pure  gold  is  next  accurate- 
ly weighed.  This  weight  doubled  (if  12 
grains  are  under  assay),  or  quadrupled  (if  6 
grains),  gives  the  number  of  carats  fine  of  the 
alloy  examined,  without  calculation.  The 
loss  of  weight  by  cupellation  gives  the 
amount  of  copper  in  the  sample;  that  after 
parting,  the  amount  of  silver,  deducting,  of 
course,  the  weight  of  silver  used  in  the  pro- 
cess, which  is  called  the  witness.  "When 
the  sample  contains  but  very  little  gold,  the 
dry  method  of  assaying  cannot  be  depended 
on,  and  chemical  analysis  must  be  had  re- 
course to.  (Cooley.) 

3192.  Assay  of  Gold  by   Chemical 
Analysis.     The  richness  of  gold  in  any  sub- 
stance,  whether  liquid    or    solid,  especially 
where  the  quantity  is  small,  is  most  easily 
obtained  by  chemical  analysis.    The  gold  is 
thrown  down  from  its  sohition  by  adding  a 
solution  of  protosulphate  of  iron ;  the  precip- 
itate, after  being  washed,  dried  and  gently 
heated,  may  be  weighed  as  pure  gold. 

If  100  grains  of  the  substance  or  liquid 
under  test  be  taken  for  examination,  the 
weight  in  grains  of  the  dried  precipitate  will 
give  the  percentage  of  gold  contained  in  the 
sample. 

3193.  To    Obtain    Gold   Chemically 
Pure.     Dissolve  gold  in  nitromuriatic  acid 
(a  mixture  of  1  part  nitric  acid  with  2  parts 
muriatic  acid,  and  called  aquaregia);  by  add- 
ing to  the  gold  solution  a  solution  of  proto- 
sulphate of  iron,  the  pure  gold  is  precipitated 
in  the  form  of  a  brown  powder,  which  should 
be  thoroughly  washed  to  free  it  from  acid, 
and  then  dried.    In  this  form  it  is  ready  to 
mix  by  fusion  with  other  metals ;  or  the  pow- 
der can  be  reduced  to  solid  metallic  form  by 
melting  in  a  crucible,  with  a  charcoal  fire, 
sprinkling  occasionally  into  the  crucible    a 
little  saltpetre  and  potash  as  a  flux.     The 
gold  will  form  a  button  at  the  bottom. 


3194.  Grain  Gold.      Cupelled  gold,  1 
part ;  silver,  3  parts ;  melt  and  pour  in  a  small 
stream  into   water;   dissolve   out  the   silver 
with  nitric  acid,  and  heat  the  grains  to  red- 
ness.    Used  to  make  preparations  of  gold. 

3195.  Liquid    Gold.      Agitate    ether 
with  a  solution  of  terchloride  of  gold  for  some 
time,  allow  it  to  repose,  and  decant  the  su- 
pernatant portion.  •  Naphtha  and  essential 
oils  possess  the  same  property  as   ether,  of 
taking  gold  from  its   solutions.     This  liquid 
was  formerly  held  in  great  esteem  as  a  cor- 
dial medicine.     It  is  now  only  employed  for 
writing  on  steel,   gilding,    &c.     As  it  dries, 
it  leaves  a  coating  of  pure  gold.      (See  No. 
3585.) 

3196.  To  Make  Watch  Hands  Bed. 
Mix  to  a  paste  over  a  lamp,  1  ounce  carmine, 
1  ounce  chloride  of  silver,  and  k  ounce  tinners' 
japan.     Put  some  of  the  paste  on  the  hands, 
and  lay  them  face  upwards  on  a  sheet  of  cop- 
per, holding  it  over  a  spirit  lamp  until  the  de- 
sired color  appears  on  them. 

3197.  French  Method  for  Coloring 
Gold.     A  solution  is  made  of  2  parts  nitre, 
1  part  Roman  alum,  and  1  of  sea  salt.     The 
jewels  or  articles  of  gold  are  kept  in  the  solu- 
tion at  a  boiling  point  for  from  15  to  25  min- 
utes ;  and  then  washed  in  water.    The  surface 
of  the  gold  is  dull,  but  perfectly  uniform,  and 
ready  for  burnishing. 

3198.  To    Color    Gold.      Take    1  part 
salt,  1  part  alum,  and  2  parts  saltpetre ;  each 
material  to  be  well  pounded  separately  in  a 
•mortar;  put  them  into  an  iron  pot  with  J 
pint  water,  and  heat  slowly  over  a  fire:  boil 
gently  and  stir  with  an  iron  rod  until  it  rises. 
It  is  then  ready  for  the  reception  of  the  ar- 
ticles to  be  colored,  which  must  be  not  less 
than  18  carat  fine.     They  are  suspended  in 
the  color  by  18  carat  wire,  and  kept  in  motion 
till  the  liquid  begins  to  sink,  then  taken  out 
and  dipped  in  aquafortis  pickle.      The  color 
liquid  will  rise  again,  and  then  another  dip, 
and  sometimes  two,  may  be  necessary  to  give 
the  articles  the  proper  color.     This  process  of 
coloring  is  no  more  than  taking  from  the  sur- 
face the  inferior  metals,  leaving  a  thin  coating 
of  pure  gold ;  its  application  should  not  be 
too   long  continued,   as  it  also    dissolves   a 
small  portion  of  the  gold. 

3199.  Gold  Coloring  Solution.     Take 
1  ounce  nitrate  of  soda,  and  i  ounce  chloride 
of  sodium,  and  dissolve  in  a  slight  excess  of 
warm  water,  afterwards  adding  to  the  solu- 
tion   about   5    drachms    hydrochloric    acid. 
The  solution  should  be  kept  boiling  while  the 
work  is  in  it. 

3200.  To  Clean  Gold  after  it  is 
Soldered.  Put  it  through  the  same  process 
as  silver  (see  No.  3222),  but,  instead  of  alum- 
water,  boil  it  in  wine  and  sal-ammoniac. 

3201.  To  Restore  the  Color  of  Gold 
after  Soldering.      Boil  the  gold,  after  sol- 
dering, in  diluted  oil  of  vitriol ;  rinse  in  clean 
water,  polish  with  Tripoli  mixed  in  oil  (sweet 
oil  is  best),  wash  and  gloss  with  crocus  on  a 
clean  cloth. 

3202.  To   Clean   Gold.      Dissolve    a 
little  muriate  of  ammonia  in  urine;  boil  your 
soiled  gold  therein,  and  it  will  become  clean 
and  brilliant. 

3203.  To    Clean   Gold    Ornaments. 
Gold    ornaments    may    also    be    thoroughly 


SILVEE. 


295 


cleaned  by  immersion  for  a  few  seconds  in  a 
weak  solution  of  ammonia.     Then  wash  with 
soap  and  water. 
3201.       Polishing   Powder  for   Gold 

Articles.  Dr.  \V.  Hofrnan  has  analyzed  a 
polishing  powder  sold  by  gold  -workers  in 
Germany,  which  always  commands  a  very 
high  price,  and  hence,  it  may  be  inferred,  is 
well  adapted  for  the  purpose.  He  found  it  to 
be  a  very  simple  composition,  being,  a  mix- 
ture of  about  70  per  cent,  sesquioxide  of  iron 
(iron  rust)  and  30  per  cent,  sal-ammoniac. 
To  prepare  it,  protochloride  of  iron,  obtained 
by  dissolving  iron  in  hydrochloric  acid,  is 
treated  with  liquid  ammonia  until  a  precipi- 
tate is  no  longer  formed.  The  precipitate  is 
collected  on  a  filter,  and,  without  washing,  is 
dried  at  such  a  temperature  that  the  adhering 
sal-ammoniac  shall  not  be  volatilized.  The 
protoxide  of  iron  precipitate  at  first  becomes 
charged  with  sesquioxide. 


SilVGI*.  This  metal  has  a  very  white 
color,  a  high  degree  of  lustre,  is  exceed- 
ingly malleable  and  ductile,  and  the  best  con- 
ductor of  heat  and  electricity  known.  It  is 
procured  from  its  ores  chiefly  by  amalgama- 
tion and  cupellation.  Its  specific  gravity  is 
10.474,  and  melting-point  1873°  Fahr.,  or 
bright  redness.  It  is  soluble  in  nitric  acid, 
and  in  sulphuric  acid  by  the  aid  of  heat.  Its 
surface  is  rapidly  tarnished  by  sulphuretted 
hydrogen,  and  by  the  fumes  of  sulphur. 

3203.  Assay  of  Silver  by  Cupellation. 
The  assay  pound  (usually  12  or  20  grains  for 
silver)  of  the  alloy  for  examination  is  accu- 
rately weighed,  and  then  wrapped  in  a  small 
piece  of  paper  ready  to  undergo  the  process 
of  cupellation.  (See  No.  3191.)  The  quan- 
tity of  lead  used  is  not  uniform,  but  depends 
on  the  nature  of  the  alloy.  It  should  be  16 
times  the  weight  of  the  copper  presumed  to 
be  present  in  the  sample.  This,  however, 
cannot  bo  accurately  ascertained,  though  an 
experienced  assayer  is  generally  able  to  guess 
very  nearly  the  amount.  If  too  much  lead 
be  used,  the  button  obtained  by  cupellation 
will  be  too  small,  owing  to  some  of  the  silver 
being  absorbed  by  the  cupel ;  and  if  too  little 
be  used,  the  button  will  come  out  too  large, 
from  still  containing  some  copper.  The  im- 
portance of  justly  proportioning  the  lead  to 
the  quantity  of  copper  present  in  the  alloy, 
cannot  bo  too  much  insisted  on.  (Cooley), 

3207.  Assay  of  Silver  by  Chemical 
Analysis.  Dissolve  10  grains  of  the  alloy 
in  100  grains  of  nitric  acid,  specific  gravity 
1.23,  by  the  aid  of  heat;  the  solution  being 
made  in  a  tall  stoppered  glass  tube,  furnished 
with  a  foot;  then  place  it  in  a  very  delicate 
balance,  which  must  be  brought  into  an  exact 
state  of  equilibrium,  and  add  the  test  solution 
(see  No.  3203)  gradually  and  cautiously,  until 
the  whole  of  the  silver  bo  thrown  down ;  but 
the  utmost  care  must  be  taken  not  to  exceed 
this  point.  The  number  of  grains  now  re- 
quired to  restore  the  equilibrium  of  the  scales 
give^  the  exact  quantity  of  pure  silver  present 
in  1000  parts  of  the  sample.  The  addition  of 
th3  test  liquor  to  the  solution  requires  the 
utmost  exactness.  After  each  addition  the 
stopper  should  be  placed  in  the  tube,  and  the 


latter  violently  agitated  for  a  short  time,  when 
the  liquor  will  rapidly  clear  and  enable  it  to 
be  seen  when  the  operation  is  concluded.  AVe 
must  then,  as  a  check,  add  a  small  quantity 
of  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  to  the  liquor 
in  the  tube,  after  having  first  carefully  taken 
the  weight.  If  too  much  of  the  test  liquor 
has  been  added,  this  will  produce  a  fresh  pre- 
cipitate, and  the  assay  cannot  then  be  de- 
pended on.  Instead  of  weighing  the  quantity 
of  test  liquor  used,  a  tube  graduated  into 
100  parts,  and  holding  1000  grains,  may  bo 
used  instead,  every  division  of  which  required 
to  throw  down  the  silver,  will  represent  the 
Tl0th  of  a  grain.  The  tube  being  filled  to  the 
0,  is  ready  for  use,  and  from  being  graduated 
downward  the  quantity  poured  out  may  at 
once  bo  read  oif.  Generally  speaking,  how- 
ever, measuring  does  not  admit  of  the  same 
accuracy  as  weighing.  The  termination  of 
the  operation  is  clearly  marked,  when,  on 
adding  a  minute  quantity  of  the  test  liquor 
to  the  silver  solution,  no  cloudiness  occurs. 

3208.  Test  Solution  for  Assaying  Sil- 
ver.    Dissolve  54£  grains  pure  sea-salt  (see 
No.  3209)  in  22  ounces  320f  grains  (avoirdu- 
pois) distilled  water.     Filter  and  keep  in  a 
stoppered  bottle  for  use. 

3209.  Pure  Sea-Salt.      Boil  together 
for  a  few  minutes,  in  a  glass  vessel,  a  solution 
of  salt  with  a  little  pure  bicarbonate  of  soda ; 
filter;  add  muriatic  acid  until  the  liquor  be 
neutral  to  litmus  and  turmeric  paper ;  then 
evaporate  and  crystallize. 

3210.  To  Extract  Silver  from  Lead. 
This  is  easily  done  in  a  small  way  by  melting 
the  mixed  metals  by  a  strong  heat  in  the  open 
air..    The  lead  will  be  converted  into  litharge, 
and  the  silver  will  sink  to  the  bottom  of  the 
crucible.     On  a  large  scale,  the  silver  is  ex- 
tracted from  the  lead  by  the  oxidation  of  tho 
lead  into  a  reverberatory  furnace  of  a  particu- 
lar construction.     A  shallow  vessel,  called  a 
cupel,  is  filled  with  ashes,  well  packed  and 
pounded  down,  and  a  cavity  cut  out  for  tho 
reception  of  the  nozzle  of  a  bellows,  through 
which  air  is  forcibly  driven.     "When  the  fire  is 
lighted  and  the  lead  is  in  a  state  of  fusion 
from  tho  reverberation  of  the  flame,  the  blast 
from  the  bellows  is  made  to  play  forcibly  on 
the  surface,  and  m  a  short  time  a  crust  of 
oxide  of  lead  or  litharge  is  formed  and  driven 
off  to  the  side  of  the  cupel  opposite^  to  the 
mouth  of  the  bellows,  where  a  shallow  aper- 
ture is  made  for  it  to  pass  over;  another  crust 
of  litharge  is  formed  and  driven  off,  and  this 
is  repeated  until  nearly  all  the  lead  has  been 
scorified   and    blown  aside.      The  complete 
separation  of  the  lead  is  indicated  by  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  brilliant  lustre  on  the  convex 
surface  of  the  melted  mass  in  the  cupel,  which 
is  occasioned  by  tho  removal  of  the  last  crust 
of  litharge  which  covered  the  silver.     If  the 
silver  thus  abstracted  is  not  sufficiently  pure, 
it  is  further  refined  in  a  reverberatory  furnace, 
being  placed  in  a  cupel  lined  with  bone  ashes 
and  exposed  to  an  intense  heat,  so  that  the 
lead  which  escaped    oxidation  by  the  first 
process  is  converted    into    litharge,   and    is 
absorbed  by  the  ashes  of  the  cupel. 

3211.  Test  for  Metallic  Silver.    The 
compounds  of  silver,  mixed  with  carbonate  of 
soda,  and  exposed  on  charcoal  to  the  inner 
flame  of  a  blow-pipe,  afford  white,  brilliant, 


296 


SILVER. 


and  ductile  metallic  globules,  without  any 
incmstation  of  the  charcoal.  (See  also  As- 
saying.) 

3212.  To  Obtain  Pure  Silver.  Pure 
silver  is  obtained  by  placing  a  copper  rod  in  a 
solution  of  nitrate  of  silver,  digesting  the 
precipitate  in  caustic  ammonia,  and  washing 
with  water;  or  by  boiling  recently  precipitated 
and  still  moist  chloride  of  silver  in  a  bright 
iron  vessel  along  wi  th  water.  ( See  No.  3536. ) 
3213.  Solvent  for  Silver.  Kitro- 
sulphuric  acid.  Dissolve  1  part  nitre  in  10 
parts  oil  of  vitriol.  Used  for  dissolving  the 
silver  from  plated  goods,  &c.  It  dissolves 
silver  at  a  temperature  below  200°,  and 
scarcely  acts  upon  copper,  lead,  and  iron,  un- 
less diluted.  (See  Nos.  3716,  3720,  and  3721.) 
The  silver  is  precipitated  from  the  solution, 
after  moderately  diluting  it,  by  common  salt, 
and  the  chloride  reduced  as  directed  in  Kos. 
3214  and  3215. 

3214.  To  Purify  and  Reduce  Silver. 
Silver,  as  used  in  'the  arts  and  coinage,  is  al- 
loyed with  a  portion  of  copper.     To  purify  it, 
dissolve  the  metal  in  nitric  acid  slightly  dilu- 
ted, and  add  common  salt,  which  throws  down 
the  whole  of  the  silver  in  the  form  of  chloride. 
To  reduce  it  into  a  metallic-  state  several 
methods  are  used.    The  chloride  must  be  re- 
peatedly washed  with    distilled  water,   and 
placed  in  a  zinc  cup  ;  a  little  diluted  sulphuric 
acid  being  added,  the  chloride  is  soon  reduced. 
The  silver,  when  thoroughly  washed,  is  quite 
pure.    In  the  absence  of  a  zinc  cup,  a  porce- 
lain cup  containing  a  zinc  plate  may  be  used. 
The  process  is  expedited  by  warming  the  cup. 
(See  No.  3536.) 

3215.  To  Purify  and  Reduce  Silver. 
Proceed  as  above,  and  digest   the  washed 
chloride    -frith    pure    copper  and  -ammonia. 
The  quantity  of  ammonia  need  not  be  suffi- 
cient to  dissolve  the  chloride.      Leave  the 
mixture  for  a  day,  then  wash  the  silver  thor- 
oughly.     Or:    Boil  the  washed  and    moist 
chloride  in  solution  of  pure  potash,  adding  a 
little  sugar ;  when  washed  it  is  quite  pure. 

3216.  Peale's  Method  of  Obtaining 
Pure   Silver   from   its   Solutions.      By 
adding  in  excess,  a  saturated  solution  of  com- 
mon salt  to  the  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver, 
the  metal  is  thrown  down,  as  an  insoluble 
salt,  the  chloride  of  silver.    The  precipitate 
must  then  be  carefully  washed  until  it  is  en- 
tirely freed  from  the  presence  of  nitric  acid. 
Granulated  zinc  must  then  be  added  to  the 
chloride,  and  stirred  through  the  mass.     The 
finer  the  zinc  has  been  granulated,  the  more 
rapid  will  be  the  reduction.     Dilute  sulphuric 
acid  must  also  be  added,  and  the  whole  stirred 
until  the  reduction  is  complete,  which  will 
bo  known  by  the  entire  disappearance  of  the 
white  chloride,  and  its  conversion  into  a  grey 
powder.    A  new  set  of  affinities  takes  place 
with  great  rapidity  in  this  combination,  and 
the  chlorine  is  liberated  from  the  silver,  which 
takes  its  metallic  form,  as  above  stated,  in  the 
appearance  of  a    grey  powder.      The  zinc, 
having  been  added  in  excess,  must  now  be 
removed  by  the  addition  of  dilute  sulphuric 
acid  ;  after  all  action  has  ceased,  the  solution 
of  zinc  must  be  decanted,  or  drawn  off  with  a 
syphon,  and  the  silver  washed  until  free  from 
acidulous  matter,  after  which  it  may  be  dried 
by  pressure,  or  the  simple  application  of  heat 


in  a  pan  over  the  fire,  when  it  will  be  ready 
for  melting,  with  the  usual  fluxes,  or  re-solu- 
tion with  nitric  acid.  This  process  is  rapid 
and  easy;  is  not  subject  to  loss;  it  will  yield, 
in  the  terms  of  trade,  pure  silver,  of  a  quality 
from  994  to  998  thousandths  fine,  and  is  there- 
fore well  adapted  to  the  preparation  of  pure 
nitrate  of  silver  for  the  use  of  photographers 
and  all  others  who  need  a  reliable  article. 

3217.  Silver  Dust.     Take  silver,  dis- 
solve it  in  slightly  diluted  nitric   acid,  and 
precipitate  it  with   slips  of  bright  copper; 
wash  the  powder  in  spirits,  and  dry  it.     Or: 
An  exceedingly  fine  silver  dust  may  be  ob- 
tained by  boiling  recently  precipitated  chloride 
of  silver  with  water  acid'ulated  with  sulphuric 
acid,  and  zinc. 

3218.  To  Frost  Polished  Silver.     To 
produce  a  frosted  surface  on  polished  silver, 
use  cyanide  of  potassium  with  a  brush.     The 
silver  should  not  be  handled  during  the  pro- 
cess, but  held  with  pliers  made   of   lance- 
wood  or  boxwood.      The  proportion   should 
be  1  ounce  dissolved  in  %  pint  of  water.     It  is 
very  poisonous. 

3219.  To    Oxidize    Silver.      A    very 
beautiful  effect  is  produced  upon  the  surface 
of  silver  articles,  technically  termed  oxidizing, 
which  gives  the  surface  an  appearance  of  pol- 
ished steel.    This  can  be  easily  effected  by 
taking  a  little  chloride  of  platinum,  prepared 
as  described  in  the  next  receipt,  heating  the 
solution  and  applying  it  to  the  silver  when  an 
oxidized  surface  is  required,  and  allowing  the 
solution  to  dry  upon  the  silver.     The  darkness 
of  the  color  produced  varies  according  to  the 
strength  of  the  platinum  solution,   from  a 
light  steel  gray  to  nearly  black.     The  effect  of 
this  process,  when  combined  with  what  is 
termed  dead  work,  is  very  pretty,  and  may  be 
easily  applied  to  medals,  giving  scope  for  the 
exercise  of  taste.     The  high  appreciation  in 
which  ornaments  in  oxidized  silver  are  now 
held,  render  a  notice  of  the  process  followed 
interesting.     There  are  two  distinct  shades  in 
use — one  produced  by  chloride,  which  has  a 
brownish  tint,   and  the   other    by    sulphur, 
which  has  a  blueish-black  tint.     To  produce 
the  former,  it  is  only  necessary  to  wash  the 
article  with  a  solution  of  sal-ammoniac ;   a 
much  more  beautiful  tint  may,  however,  be 
obtained  by  employing  a  solution  composed 
of  equal  parts  of  sulphate  of  copper  and  sal- 
ammoniac  in  vinegar.    The  fine  black  tint 
may  be  produced  by  a  slightly  warm  solution 
of  sulphuret  of  potassium  or  sodium.     (Dr. 
Ellsner.) 

3220.  To    Prepare    Nitro-Muriate 
(Chloride)  of  Platinum.    The  nitro-muriate 
of  platinum  is  easily  prepared :  Take  1  part 
nitric  acid,  and  2  parts  hydrochloric  (muriatic) 
acid ;  mix  together  and  add  a  little  platinum ; 
keep  the  whole  at  or  near  a  boiling  heat ;  the 
metal  is  then  dissolved,  forming  the  solution 
required. 

3221.  To  Make  a  Silver  Tree.     Dis- 
solve 20  grains  nitrate  of  silver  in  1  fluid  ounce 
of  water  in  a  phial,  and  add  £  drachm  pure 
mercury.     Arrange  the  zinc  as  for  the  lead 
tree.     Very  brilliant  and  beautiful. 

3222.  To  Clean  Silver  after  it  is  Sol- 
dered.    Make  it  just  red  hot,  and  let  it  cool; 
then  boil  it  in  alum  water,  in   an   earthen 
vessel,  and  it  will  be  as  clean  as  when  new. 


SILVER 


297 


3223.  Belgian  Burnishing  Powder.       3229.    Plate  Cleaning  Powder.     For 

A  burnishing  powder  in  use  in  Belgium  is  j  cleaning  silver  and  plated  articles,  <fcc.  Mix  J 
.composed  of  |  pound  fine  chalk,  3  ounces  pound  jeweler's  rouge  with  £  pound  .prepared 
pipe  clay,  2  ounces  white  lead,  f  ounce  mag-  chalk.  Or :  i  pound  levigated  putty  powder, 
nesia  (carbonate),  and  the  same  quantity  of  k  pound  burnt  hartshorn,  1  pound  prepared 
jeweler's  rouge.  chalk,  and  1  ounce  rose-pink. 

3224.  To  Protect  Silver-Ware  from  j     3230.    To  Clean  Silver.     To  clean  sil- 
Tarnishing.     The  loss  of  silver  which  re- 1  ver,  mix  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  ammonia   in  a 
suits  from  the  impregnation  of  our  atmosphere   quart  of^hot  soap-suds.     Put  in  the   silver- 


with  sulphur  compounds,  especially  where 
gas  is  burned,  is  very  great.  Silversmiths 
may  thank  one  of  their  confraternity — Mr. 
Strolberger,  of  Munich — for  a  happy  thought. 
He  seems  to  have  tried  various  plans  to  save 
his  silver,  if  possible.  He  covered  his  goods 
with  a  clear  white  varnish,  but  found  that  it 
soon  turned  yellow  in  the  window,  and  spoiled 
the  look  of  his  wares.  Then  he  tried  water- 
glass  (solution  of  silicate  of  potash),  but  this 
did  not  answer.  He  tried  some  other  solu- 
tions, to  no  purpose ;  but  at  last  he  hit  upon 
the  expedient  of  coating  his  goods  over  with 
a  thin  coating  of  collodion,  which  he  found 
to  answer  periectly.  No  more  loss  of  silver, 
and  no  longer  incessant  labor  in  keeping  it 
clean.  The  plan  he  adopts  is  this :  He  first 
warms  the  articles  to  be  coated,  and  then 
paints  them  over  carefully  with  a  thinnish 
collodion  diluted  with  alcohol,  using  a  wide 
soft  brush  for  the  purpose.  Generally,  he 
eays,  it  is  not  advisable  to  do  them  over  more 
than  once.  Silver  goods,  he  tells  us,  protected 
in  this  way,  have  been  exposed  in  his  window 
more  than  a  year,  and  are  as  bright  as  ever, 
while  others  unprotected  have  become  perfect- 
ly black  in  a  few  months. 

3225.  To  Prevent  Coins  and  Small 
Ornaments  from  Tarnishing.  All  orna- 
ments, whether  gold  or  silver,  can  be  kept 
from  tarnishing  if  they  are  carefully  covered 
from  the  air  in  box- wood  sawdust,  which  will 
also  dry  them  after  being  washed.  The  tarnish 
on  silver-ware  is  most  often  due  to  sulphur. 
A  gentleman  who  wears  a  silver  watch  finds 
that  it  is  tarnished  from  the  sulphur  fumes  of 
the  rubber  ring  which  holds  together  his  ferry 
tickets.  Sulphur  fumes  enough  get  into  the 
air  to  account  for  all  ordinary  cases  of  tar- 


nishing. 
3226.     To  Clean  Silver. 


Immerse  for 


half  an  hour  the  silver  article  into  a  solution 
made  of  1  gallon  water,  1  pound  hyposulphite 
of  soda,  8  ounces  muriate  of  ammonia.  4  oun- 
ces liquid  ammonia,  and  4  ounces  cyanide  of 
potassium;  but,  as  the  latter  substance  is 
poisonous,  it  can  be  dispensed  with  if  neces- 
sary. The  article,  being  taken  out  of  the 
solution,  is  washed,  and  rubbed  with  a  wash 
leather. 

3227.  To  Clean  Silver  Plate.    Fill  a 
large   saucepan  with  water;    put  into  it  1 
ounce  carbonate  of  potash  and  i  pound  whi- 
ting.    Now  put  in  all  the  spoons,  forks,  and 
small  plate,  and  boil  them  for  20  minutes ; 
after  which  take  the  saucepan  off  the  fire  and 
allow  the  liquor  to  become  cold ;  then  take 
each  piece  out  and  polish  with  soft  leather. 
A  soft  brush  must  be  used  to  clean  the  em- 
bossed and  engraved  parts. 

3228.  Plate   Boiling  Powder.      Mix 
equal  parts  of  cream  of  tartar,  common  salt, 
and  alum.     A  little  of  this  powder,  added  to 
the  water  in  which  silver-plate  is  boiled,  gives 
to  it  a  silvery  whiteness. 


ware  and  wash  it,  using  an  old  nail-brush  or 
tooth-brush  for  the  purpose. 

3231.  To  Clean  Silver  and  Silver 
Plated  Articles.  Boil  1  ounce  finely  pow- 
dered and  calcined  hartshorn  in  1  quart  water, 
and  while  on  the  fire,  insert  the  articles,  as 
many  as  the  vessel  will  hold ;  leaye  them  in 
a  short  time,  then  take  them  out,  and  dry 
them  over  a  fire ;  when  all  the  articles  have 
been  thus  treated,  piit  into  the  solution  clean 
woolen  rags ;  when  they  are  saturated,  hang 
them  up  to  dry.  These  will  be  excellent  for 
polishing  the  silver,  as  well  as  for  cleaning 
brass  door-knobs,  &c. 

3232.  To    Preserve    the    Polish    on 
Silver.     "Wash  it  twice  a  week  (if  in  daily 
use)  with  soft  soap  and  hot  water,  and  polish 
with  Canton  flannel.     (See  next  receipt.) 

3233.  To  Clean  Silver  Ornaments. 
Boil  them  in   soft  soap  and  water  for  five 
minutes ;  then  put  them  in  a  basin  with  the 
same  hot  soap  and  water,  and  scrub  them 
gently  with  a  very  soft  brush  while  hot ;  then 
rinse  and  dry  with  a  linen  rag.     Heat  a  piece 
of  common  unglazed  earthenware,  or  a  piece 
of  brick  or  tile  in  the  fire ;  take   it  off,  and 
place  the  ornaments  upon  it  for  the  purpose 
of  drying  them,  and  causing  every  particle  of 
moisture    to    evaporate;     as    the    moisture, 
which  otherwise  would  remain  on  the  silver, 
will  cause  it  to  tarnish,  or  assume  a  greenish 
hue. 

3234.  To  Clean  Silver.  Moisten 
some  finely  powdered  whiting  or  Paris  white 
with  spirits  of  hartshorn,  rub  the  silver  into 
it,  let  it  dry,  then  rub  it  off  with  a  soft  cloth 
and  polish  it  with  chamois  leather.  Some 
kinds  of  silver  soap  keep  silver  looking  nicely, 
but  many  of  them  are  chemical  compounds 
that  injure  the  silver. 

3235.  To  Clean  Silver  Plate.     Whit- 
ing finely   powdered  and  moistened  with  a 
little  sweet  oil  is  excellent  to   clean  silver. 
Let  the  mixture  dry  on,  then  rub  it  off  with  a 
soft  linen    cloth    and    polish   with   chamois 
leather.     This  gives  silver  a  beautiful  white 
appearance,  and  if  well  done  the  silver  will 
keep  clean  a  long  time. 

3236.  To  Remove   Ink  Stains  from 
Silver.      The   tops   and    other    portions    of 
silver  inkstands  frequently    become    deeply 
discolored  with  ink,  which  is  difficult  to  re- 
move by  ordinary  means.     It  may,  however, 
be  completely  eradicated  by  making  a  little 
chloride  of  lime  into  a  paste  with  water,  and 
rubbing  it  upon  the  stains. 

3237.  To  Remove  Dark  Stains  from 
Silver.     A  certain  remedy  for  the  most  in- 
veterate stains  that  are  sometimes  to  be  seen 
on  teaspoons  and  other  silver  ware,  is  to  pour 
a  little  sulphuric  acid  into  a  saucer,  wet  with 
it  a  soft  linen  rag,  and  rub  it  on  the  blackened 
silver  till  the  stain  disappears.      Then   coat 
the  articles  with  whiting  finely  powdered  and 
sifted,  and  mixed  with  whiskey  or  spirits  of 


298 


COPPER. 


wine.  'When  the  whiting  has  dried  on,  and 
rested  a  quarter  of  an  hour  or  more,  wipe  it 
with  a  silk  handkerchief,  and  polish  with  a 
soft  buckskin. 

3238.  To  Remove  Egg  Stains  from 
Spoons.     To  remove  the  stains  on  spoons, 
caused  by  using  them  for  boiled  eggs,  take  a 
little  common  salt  moist  between  the  thumb 
and  finger,  and  briskly  rub  the  stain,  which 
will  soon  disappear.     Then  wash. 

3239.  To  Clean  Gold,  Silver,  and  Cop- 
per Coin  for  Numismatic    Collections. 
Make  a  weak  solution  of  cyanide  of  potassium 
and  bathe  the  coin  in  it  for  2  or  3  seconds,  then 
immediately  wash  it  with  a  very  fine  brush,  in 
soap-suds ;  .rinse  in  clean  cold  water,  and  dry 
in  boxwood  saw  dust.     This  receipt  is  partic- 
ularly good  for  fine  proof  corns.     Be  careful 
not  to  let  the   coins  remain  in  the  solution 
longer  than  the  time  specified,  otherwise  they 
may  have  a  frosted  appearance.     (See  No. 
2167.)    As  the  cyanide  of  potassium  is  a  very 
deadly  poison,  great  care  must  be  taken  by 
the  operator  not  to  use  it  unless  his  hands  are 
entirely  free  from  scratches.     This  solution 
may  also  be  used  for  cleaning  fine  copper 
coins,  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  use  the 
mixture  that  has  previously  been  employed 
for  cleaning  silver,  or  a  coating  of  the  latter 
metal  may  be  the  consequence.     (See  Nos. 
3224  and  3225.) 

Silver  coins  are  often  covered  with  a  dense 
green  oxide.  To  remove  this  they  should  be 
steeped  for  10  minutes  in  a  solution  of  am- 
monia, then  immersed  in  water  and  wiped 
with  a  soft  towel ;  if  necessary,  a  fresh 
quantity  of  the  solution  may  be  applied. 
Copper  coin  may  be  cleaned  by  immersing  in 
pure  sweet  oil  and  wiping  dry  with  a  soft 
rag. 


Copper.  This  metal  is  found  in  the 
metallic  state,  and  in  combination  with 
oxygen,  sulphur,  acids,  and  other  minerals, 
and  in  the  organic  kingdom,  in  the  ashes  of 
plants,  and  in  the  blood  of  animals.  The 
copper  of  commerce  is  principally  prepared 
from  copper  pyrites,  a  mixed  sulphuret  of 
iron  and  copper,  found  in  Cornwall  and  other 
parts  of  the  world.  Copper  is  only  prepared 
from  its  ores  on  the  large  scale.  The  copper 
pyrites  are  first  roasted,  and  then  smelted,  by 
which  process  coarse  metal  is  produced ;  this 
is  again  submitted  to  calcination  and  smelt- 
ing, when  fine  metal  is  obtained.  It  after- 
wards undergoes  the  process  of  refining  and 
toughening.  This  metal  is  malleable  and 
ductile.  It  has  a  specific  gravity  of  8.8  to 
8.9,  fuses  at  about  2000°  Pahr.,  and  volatilizes 
at  higher  temperatures.  It  is  easily  soluble 
in  nitric  acid,  and  is  attacked  more  or  less 
rapidly  by  acids  in  general.  It  forms  numer- 
ous compounds,  all  of  which  are  more  or  less 
poisonous.  Exposure  to  a  damp  atmosphere 
produces  on  its  surface  a  green  colored  oxide, 
known  as  verdigris.  Copper  may  be  readily 
alloyed  with  other  metals,  except  iron  and 
lead,  with  which  it  unites  with  difficulty. 

3241.  Test  for  the  Quantity  of  Copper 
in  a  Compound.  The  quantity  of  copper 
present  in  any  compound  may  be  estimated 
by  throwing  it  down  from  its  solution  by  pure 


potassa,  after  which  it  must  be  carefully 
collected,  washed,  dried,  ignited,  and  weighed. 
This  will  give  the  quantity  of  the  oxide  from 
which  its  equivalent  of  metallic  copper  may 
be  calculated;  every  5  parts  of  the  former 
being  nearly  equal  to  4  of  the  latter;  or,  more 
accurately,  every  39.7  parts  are  equal  to  31.7 
of  pure  metallic  copper.  Copper  may  also  be 
precipitated  at  once  in  the  metallic  state,  by 
immersing  a  piece  of  polished  steel  into  the 
solution ;  but  this  method  will  not  give  very 
accurate  results. 

3242.  To  Separate   Lead  from  Cop- 
per.    Copper  may  be  separated  from  lead  by 
adding  sulphuric  acid  to  the  nitric  solution, 
and    evaporating    to    dryness,    when    water 
digested  on  the  residuum  will  dissolve  out 
the  sulphate  of  copper,  but  leave  the  sulphate 
of  lead  behind.     From  this  solution  the  oxide 
of  copper  may  be  thrown  down  as  before. 

3243.  To  Separate  Zinc  from  Copper. 
Copper  may  be  separated  from  zinc  by  sul- 
phuretted hydrogen,  which  will  throw  down  a 
sulphuret  of  copper,  which  may  be  dissolved 
in  nitric  acid,  and  treated  as  in  last  receipt. 

3244.  To  Separate  Tin  from  Copper. 
Digest  in  nitric  acid  ;  the  copper  will  be  dis- 
solved, but  the  tin  will  remain  in  an  insoluble 
peroxide. 

3245.  To  Separate  Silver  from  Cop- 
per.    Digest,  in  a  state  of  filings  or  powder, 
in  a  solution  of  chloride  of  zinc,  which  dis- 
solves the  copper  and  leaves  the  silver  un- 
changed. 

3246.  To  Separate  Copper  from  its 
Alloys.     Copper  may  be  separated  in  abso- 
lute purity  from  antimony,  arsenic,  bismuth, 
lead,  iron,  <fcc.,  as  it  exists  in  bell-metal,  brass, 
bronze,    and    other    commercial    alloys,    by 
fusing,  for  about  half  an  hour,  in  a  crucible, 
10  parts  of  the  metal  with  1  part  each  of  cop- 
per scales  (black  oxide),   and  bottle  glass. 
The  pure  copper  is  found  at  the  bottom  of 
the  crucible,  whilst  the  other  metals  or  impuri- 
ties are  either  volatilized  or  dissolved  in  the 
flux. 

3247.  Copper    in  Fine  Powder.     A 
solution  of  sulphate  of  copper  is  heated  to  the 
boiling-point,  and  precipitated  with  sublima- 
ted zinc.   (See  No.  30.)    The  precipitated  cop- 
per is  then  separated  from  the  adherent  zinc 
by  diluted  sulphuric  acid,  and  dried  by  expo- 
sure to  a  moderate  temperature. 

3248.  Reduction  of  Copper  in  Fine 
Powder.     M.  Schiff  gives  the  following  pro- 
cess for  obtaining  copper  in  a  state  of  fine 
division:  A  saturated  solution  of  sulphate  of 
copper,  together  with  some  crystals  of  the 
salt,  are  introduced  into  a  bottle  or  flask,  and 
agitated  with  some  granulated    zinc.      The 
zinc  displaces  the  copper  from  its  solution, 
fresh  sulphate  dissolving  as  the  action  goes 
on,  until  the  whole  is   exhausted.     Heat  is 
disengaged  during  the  operation.     The  pre- 
cipitated copper  must  be  washed  and  dried 
as  rapidly  as  possible,  to  prevent  oxidation. 

3249.v  Feather-Shot  Copper.  Melted 
copper,  poured  in  a  small  stream  into  cold 
water.  It  forms  small  pieces,  with  a  feathered 
edge,  hence  the  name.  It  is  used  to  make 
solution  of  copper. 

3250.  Welding  Copper.  A  compound 
of  358  parts  phosphate  of  soda  and  124  parts 
boracic  acid  is  prepared^  and  is  used  when  the 


LEAD. 


299 


metal  is  at  a  dull  red  heat ;  the  heat  is  then 
increased  till  the  metal  becomes  of  a  cherry 
red  color,  and  the  latter  is  at  once  hammered. 
A  hammer  of  wood  is  recommended  for  this 
purpose,  as  the  metal  is  liable  to  soften  at  a 
high  heat;  and  the  hammer  should  be  used 
cautiously.  All  scale  and  carbonaceous  mat- 
ter must  be  removed  from  the  surface  of  the 
copper,  as  the  success  of  the  welding  depends 
on  the  formation  of  an  easily  fusible  phosphate 
of  copper,  which  would  be  reduced  to  a  phos- 
phide by  the  presence  of  carbon. 

3251.  To   Prevent   the  Corrosion  of 
Copper    and    Other    Metals.      The   best 
means  of  preventing  corrosion  of  metals  is  to 
dip  the  articles  first  into  a  very  dilute  nitric 
acid,  immerse  them  afterwards  in  linseed  oil, 
and  allow  the  excess  of  oil  to  drain  off.     By 
this  process  metals  are  effectually  prevented 
from  rust  or  oxidation. 

3252.  To  Clean  Coppers  and  Tins. 
These  are  cleaned  with  a  mixture  of  rotten 
stone,  soft  soap,  and  oil  of  turpentine,  mixed 
to  the  consistency  of  stiff  putty.     The  stone 
should  be  powdered  very  fine  and  sifted ;  and 
a    quantity  of  the    mixture  may  be  made 
sufficient    to    last  for  a    long    while.     The 
articles  should  first  be  washed  with  hot  wa- 
ter, to  remove  grease.     Then  a  little  of  the 
above  mixture,  mixed  with  water,  should  be 
rubbed  over  the  metal ;  then  rub  off  briskly, 
with  dry  clean  rag  or  leather,  and  a  beautiful 
polish  will  be  obtained.     When  tins  are  much 
blackened  by  the  fire  they  should  be  scoured 
with  soap,  water,  and  fine  sand. 


L68LQ.  Lead  is  only  prepared  on  the 
large  scale.  It  is  usually  extracted  from 
galena,  a  natural  sulphuret  of  lead,  by  roast- 
ing the  ore  in  a  reverberatory  furnace,  and 
afterwards  smelting  it  along  with  coal  and 
lime.  Its  specific  gravity,  in  a  state  of  abso- 
lute purity,  is  11.38  to  11.44,  but  ordinary 
lead  seldom  exceeds  11.35.  It  melts  at  about 
612°  Fahr.,  and  when  very  slowly  cooled, 
crystallizes  in  octohedrons.  It  is  malleable 
and  ductile,  but  devoid  of  elasticity.  Lead  is 
not  dissolved  by  muriatic,  sulphuric,  or  the 
vegetable  acids,  unless  by  free  contact  with 
air,  and  then  very  slowly:  but  nitric  acid 
rapidly  oxidizes  it,  forming  a  solution  of  ni- 
trate of  lead.  Pure  water,  put  into  a  leaden 
vessel,  and  exposed  to  the  air,  soon  corrodes 
it,  and  dissolves  the  newly-formed  oxide  ;  but 
river  and  spring  water  exert  no  such  influ- 
ence, the  carbonates  and  sulphates  in  such 
water  destroying  its  solvent  power.  Lead 
may  be  alloyed  with  most  metals,  except 
those  which  differ  greatly  from  it  in  specific 
gravity  and  melting  point.  It  has  a  strong 
affinity  for  gold  and  silver,  and  is  therefore 
employed  to  separate  those  metals,  by  cupel- 
latiou,  from  other  metals  and  minerals. 

3254.  Cautions  on  the  Use  of  Lead 
for  Cisterns,  &c.  Ordinary  water,  which 
abounds  in  mineral  salts,  may  be  safely  kept 
in  leaden  cisterns ;  but  distilled  and  rain 
water,  and  water  that  contains  scarcely  any 
saline  matter,  speedily  corrode,  and  dissolve 
a  portion  of  lead,  when  kept  in  vessels  of  that 


metal.  When,  however,  leaden  cisterns  have 
iron  or  zinc  fastenings  or  braces,  a  galvanic 
action  is  set  up,  the  preservative  power  of 
saline  matter  ceases,  and  the  water  speedily 
becomes  contaminated  with  lead.  Water  con- 
taining free  carbonic  acid  also  acts  on  lead; 
and  this  is  the  reason  why  the  water  of  some ; 
springs,  kept  in  leaden  cisterns,  or  raised  by 
leaden  pumps,  possesses  unwholesome  proper- 
ties. Free  carbonic  acid  is  evolved  during  the 
fermentation  or  decay  of  vegetable  matter, 
and  hence  "the  propriety  of  preventing  the 
leaves  of  trees  falling  into  water-cisterns 
formed  of  lead. 

3255.  To  Test  the  Richness  of  Lead 
Ores.    Lead  ores,  or  galena,  may  be  tested  in 
different  ways.     The  wet  way  is  as  follows : 
Digest  100  grains  of  the  ore  in  sufficient  nitric 
acid  diluted  with  a  little  water,  apply  heat  to 
expel  any  excess  of  acid,  and  largely  dilute 
the  remainder  with  distilled  water.     Next 
add   dilute  hydrochloric    acid,   by  drops,  as 
long  as  it  occasions  a  precipitate,  and  filter 
the  whole,   after  being  moderately   heated, 
upon  a  small  paper  filter.     Treat  the  filtered 
liquid  with  a  stream  of  sulphuretted  hydro- 
gen; collect  the  black   precipitate,    wash  it, 
and  digest  it  in  strong  nitric  acid ;  when  en- 
tirely  dissolved,  precipitate    the    lead    with 
sulphuric  acid  dropped  in  it,  evaporate  the 
precipitate  to  dryuess,  the  excess  of  sulphu- 
ric acid  being  expelled  by  a  rather  strong  heat 
applied  towards  the    end.      The    dry   mass 
should  be  washed,  dried,  and  exposed  to  slight 
ignition  in  a  porcelain  crucible.    The  resulting 
dry  sulphate  is  equal  to  .68  per  cent,  of  its 
weight  in  lead. 

3256.  To   Find    the   Percentage    of 
Lead  in  Lead  Ores.     This  can  be  done  by 
applying  the  test  in  the  wet  way  (see  No. 
3255),  and  multiplying  the  weight  of  the  pro- 
duct obtained  in  grains  by  .68.     It  may  also 
be  found  in  the  dry  way,  as  follows  :  Plunge 
a  conical  wrought  iron  crucible  into  a  blast 
furnace,  raised  to  as  high  a  heat  as  possible  ; 
when  the  crucible  has  become  of  a  dull  red 
heat,   introduce  into  it   1000    grains   galena 
(lead   ore)   reduced  to  powder,   and    stir    it 
gently  with  a  piece  of  stiff  iron  wire  flattened 
at  the  end.     This  wire  must  never  be  suffered 
to  get  red  hot.   To  prevent  the  ore  from  adher- 
ing, after  3  or  4  minutes,  cover  up  the  cruci- 
ble; and  when  at  a  full  cherry-red  heat,  add  2 
or  3  spoonfuls  of  reducing  flux  (see  No.  3464), 
and  bring  to  a  full  white  heat;  in  12  to  15 
minutes,     after    having    scraped    down    the 
scoria,   etc.,  from  the  sides  of  the   crucible, 
into  the  melted  mass,  the  crucible  should  be 
removed  from  the  fire,  and  the  contents  tilted 
into   a  small  brass  mould,  observing  to  run 
out  the  metal  free  from  scoria,  by  raking  the 
latter  back  with  a  piece  of  green  wood.     The 
scoria  is  then  reheated  in  the  crucible  with  i 
spoonful  of  flux,  and  this   second  reduction 
added  to  the  first.     The  weight  in  grains  of 
the  metal  obtained,  divided  by  10,  gives  the 
percentage  of  metallic  lead  in  the  sample  of 
ore. 

3257.  To  Make  a  Lead  Tree.   Dissolve 
1  ounce  sugar  of  lead  (acetate  of  lead)  in  1J 
pints  distilled  water;    add   a  few  drops    of 
acetic  acid;  place  the  liquid  in  a  clear  white 
glass  bottle  and  suspend  a  piece  of  zinc  in  it 
by  means  of  a  fine  thread  secured  to  the  cork. 


3OO 


IE  ON. 


Iron.  Iron  is  only  prepared  on  the 
large  scale.  It  is  obtained  by  smelting 
the  ore  along  with  coke  and  a  flux  (either 
limestone  or  clay).  The  crude  iron  thus  ob- 
tained is  run  into  moulds,  and  then  consti- 
tutes cast  iron  or  pig  iron.  By  the  subse- 
quent process  of  refining,  (puddling,  welding,) 
it  is  converted  into  soft  iron  or  wrought  iron. 
The  properties  and  uses  of  iron  are  too  well 
known  to  require  description.  Its  applica- 
tions in  almost  every  branch  of  human  indus- 
try are  almost  infinite.  It  is  remarkably 
ductile,  and  possesses  great  tenacity,  but  it  is 
less  malleable  than  many  of  the  other  metals. 
Its  specific  gravity  is  7.788,  and  melts  at 
about  2700°  Fahr.  It  is  the  hardest  of  all  of 
the  malleable  and  ductile  metals,  and  when 
.  combined  with  carbon  or  silica  (steel),  ad- 
mits of  being  tempered  to  almost  any  degree 
of  hardness  or  elasticity.  Metallic  iron  is 
distinguished  by  being  attracted  by  the  mag- 
net; by  being  dissolved  by  dilute  muriatic 
and  sulphuric  acids,  with  solution  of  hydro- 
gen gas,  recognized  by  its  inflammability;  and 
the  solution  exhibits  the  usual  reactions  of 
protoxide  of  iron.  (Cooley.)  Iron  does  not 
alloy  easily  with  other  metals,  principally  on 
account  of  its  high  melting  point.  It  is  easily 
attacked  by  acids,  and  requires  protection 
from  the  air,  to  prevent  oxidization  or  rust- 
ing. 

3259.  To  Estimate  the  Percentage  of 
Iron  in  Ores.     Prepare  a  crucible  of  refrac- 
tory clay  by  pressing  into  it  successive  layers 
of  moistened  powdered  charcoal  until  full  and 
solid;    clear  out  a  cavity  by  removing  the 
central  portion.      Take    200    grains    of  the 
powdered  ore,   and  mix  it  with    the    same 
weight  of  dry  slacked  lime,  and  50  grains  char- 
coal ;  if  necessary  a  litte  carbonate  of  soda 
may  be  used  with  very  refractory  ores;  in- 
troduce this  mixtiire  into  the  crucible  and 
lute  it  up.   Expose  the  crucible  to  a  moderate 
heat  until  the  contents  of  the  crucible  are 
dry,  then  apply,   and  maintain  for  half  an 
hour  the  full  heat  of  a  blast  furnace.    Then 
remove  the  crucible,  tap  it  steadily  on  the 
edge  of  the  furnace,  so  as  to  bring  the  metal- 
lic portion  of  its  contents  together  at  the  bot- 
tom;   and,   when    cool,   break    the    crucible 
open.    The  iron  will  be  found  in  a  clean  but- 
ton at  the  bottom  of  the  slag.     Clean  the  iron 
with  a  scratch  brush,  and  weigh  it.   Its  weight, 
divided  by  2,  will  give  the  percentage  of  rich- 
ness of  the  ore  under  examination. 

3260.  To  Distinguish  Wrought  and 
Cast  Iron  from  Steel.     Eisner  produces  a 
bright  surface  by  polishing  or  filing,  and  ap- 
plies a  drop  of  nitric  acid,  which  is  allowed 
to  remain  there  for  one  or  two  minutes,  and 
is   then  washed  off  with   water.     The   spot 
will  then  look  a  pale  ashy  gray  on  wrought 
iron,  a  brownish  black  on  steel,  a  deep  black 
on  cast  iron.     It  is  the  carbon  present  in  va- 
rious proportions  which  produces  the  differ- 
ence in  appearance. 

3261.  To  Impart  to  Cast    Iron  the 
Appearance  of  Bronze.     The  article  to  be 
so  treated  is  first  cleaned  with  great  care,  and 
then  coated  with  a  uniform  film  of  some  veg- 
etable oil ;  this  done,  it  is  exposed  in  a  fur- 
nace  to  the   action  of  a  high  temperature, 
which,  however,  must  not  be  strong  enough 


to  carbonize  the  oil.  In  this  way  the  cast 
iron  absorbs  oxygen  at  the  moment  the  oil  is 
decomposed,  and  there  is  formed  at  the  sur- 
face a  thin  coat  of  brown  oxide,  which  ad- 
heres very  strongly  to  the  metal,  and  will 
admit  of  a  high  polish,  giving  it  quite  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  finest  bronze. 

3262.  Brown  Tint  for  Iron  and  Steel. 
Dissolve  in  4  parts  of  water,  2  parts  crystal- 
lized chloride  of  iron,  2  parts  chloride  of  anti- 
mony, and  1  part   gallic  acid,  and  apply  the 
solution  with  a  sponge  or  cloth  to  the.  article, 
and  dry  it  in  the  air.   Repeat  this  any  number 
of  times  according  the  depth  of  color  which 
it  is  desired  to  produce.     Wash  with  water, 
and  dry,  and  finally  rub  the  articles  over  with 
boiled  linseed  oil.    The  metal  thus  receives 
a  brown    tint    and    resists    moisture.      The 
chloride  of  antimony  should  be  as  little  acid 
as  possible. 

3263.  To   Blue  Gun  Barrels.     Apply 
nitric  acid  and  let  it  eat  into  the  iron  a  little ; 
then  the  latter  will  be  covered  with 'a   thin 
film  of  oxide.     Clean  the  barrel,  oil,  and  bur- 
nish. 

3264.  To  Ornament  Gun  Barrels.     A 
very  pretty  appearance  is  given  to  gun  bar- 
rels by  treating  them  with  dilute  nitric  acid 
and  vinegar,  to  which  has  been  added  sul- 
phate of  copper.    The  metallic  copper  is  de- 
posited   irregularly    over    the    iron    surface. 
Wash,  oil,  and  rub  well  with  a  hard  brush. 

3265.  Iron  Filings.     The  only  way  to 
obtain  them  pure,  is  to  act  on  a  piece  of  soft 
iron  with  a  file. 

3266.  To  Remove  Bust  from  Iron. 
We  have  never  seen  any  iron  so  badly  scaled 
or  incrusted  with  oxide,  that  it  could  not*  be 
cleaned  with  a  solution  of  1  part  sulphuric 
acid  in  10  parts  water.   Paradoxical  as  it  may 
seem,  strong  sulphuric  acid  will  not  attack 
iron  with  anything  like  the  energy  of  a  solu- 
tion of  the  same.     On  withdrawing  the  arti- 
cles from  the  acid   solution  they   should  be 
dipped  in  a  bath  of  hot  lime  water,  and  held 
there  till  they  become  so  heated  that  they 
will  dry  immediately  when  taken  out.    Then, 
if  they  are  rubbed  with  dry  bran  or  sawdust, 
there  will  be  an  almost  chemically  clean  sur- 
face left,  to  which  zinc  will  adhere  readily. 

3267.  To  Keep  Polished  Iron  Work 
Bright.     Common  resin  melted  with  a  little 
galhpoli  oil  and  spirits  of  turpentine  has  been 
found  to  answer  very  well  for  preserving  pol- 
ished   iron  work    bright.       The   proportions 
should  be  such  .is  to  form  a  coating  which 
will  adhere  firmly,  not  chip  off,  and  yet  admit 
of  being    easily  detached   by  cautious    scra- 
ping. 

3268.  To  Protect  Iron  from  Oxidiza- 
tion.    Among  the  many  processes  and  pre- 
parations for  preserving  iron  from  the  action 
of   the    atmosphere,   the  following    will    be 
found  the  most  efficient  in   all   cases  where 
gatvanization    is    impracticable ;    and,    being 
unaffected  by  sea  water,  it  is  especially  appli- 
cable to  the  bottoms  of  iron  ships,  and  marine' 
work  generally :  Sulphur,  17  pounds ;  caustio 
potash  lye  of  36°  Baume,  5  pounds ;  and  cop- 
per filings,  1  pound.     To  be  heated  until  the 
copper  and  sulphur  dissolve.   Heat,  in  another 
vessel,   tallow,  750  pounds,    and   turpentine, 
150  pounds,  until  the  tallow  is  liquefied.    Thw 
compositions  are  to  be    mixed    and  stirred 


STEEL. 


301 


together  while  hot,  and  may  be  laid  on  to  the 
iron,  in  the  same  way  as  paint. 

3269.  To  Protect  Iron  from   Bust. 
A  mastic  or  covering  for  this  purpose,  propos- 
pd  by  M.  Zeni,  is  as  follows:   Mix  80  parts 
pounded  brick,  passed  through  a  silk  sieve, 
with  20  parts  litharge;   the  whole  is  then 
rubbed  up  by  the  muller  with  linseed  oil,  so 
as  to  form  a'thick  paint,  which  may  be  diluted 
with  spirits  of  turpentine.     Before  it  is  ap- 
plied the  iron  should  be  well  cleaned.    From 
an  experience  of  2  years  upon  locks  exposed 
to  the  air,  and  watered  daily  with  salt  water, 
after  being  covered  with  2  coats  of  this  mastic, 
the  good  effects  of  it  have  been  thoroughly 
proved. 

3270.  To  Prevent  the  Decay  of  Iron 
Bailings.     Every  one  must  have  noticed  the 
destructive  combination   of  lead    and    iron, 
from  railings  being  fixed  in  stone  with  the 
former  metal.    The  reason  for  this  is,  that 
the  oxygen  of  the  atmosphere  keeps  up  a 
galvanic    action    between    the    two  metals. 
This  waste  may  be  prevented  by  substituting 
zinc  for  lead,  in  which  case  the  galvanic  influ- 
ence would  be  inverted;   the  whole  of  its 
action  would  fall  on  the  zinc;  the  one  remain- 
ing uninjured,  the  other  nearly  so.     Paint 
formed  of  the  oxide  of  zinc,  for  the  same 
reason  preserves  iron  exposed  to  the  atmo- 
sphere infinitely  better  than  the  ordinary  paint 
composed  of  the  oxide  of  lead. 

3271.  To  Scour  Cast  Iron,  Zinc,  or 
Brass.     Cast  iron,  zinc,  and  brass  surfaces 
can  bo  scoured  with  great  economy  of  labor, 
time  and  material,  by  using  either  glycerine, 
steariue,  naphthaline,  or  creosote,  mixed  with 
dilute  sulphuric  acid. 

3272.  To  Clean  Steel  and  Iron.    Make 
1  ounce  soft  soap  and  2  ounces  emery  into  a 
paste ;  rub  it  on  the  article  with  wash-leather 
and  it  will  have  a  brilliant  polish.     Kerosene 
oil  will  also  clean  steel. 


Ste6l.  The  addition  of  a  small  quan- 
tity of  carbon  greatly  increases  the  hard- 
ness and  tenacity  ot  iron,  and  converts  it  into 
steel.  The  amount  of  carbon  to  be  added, 
should  be  just  that  which  will  produce  the 
maximum  of  hardness  and  toughness,  without 
rendering  it  brittle;  ordinary  steel  contains 
about  1  per  cent,  of  carbon ;  hard  steel  1.6  to 
1.7  per  cent.  The  percentage  of  carbon  in 
English  steel  is  estimated  by  Berthier  to  be 
1.87.  It  melts  at  about  2500°  Fahr. 

3274.  To  Convert  Iron  into  Steel. 
This  is  usually  done  by  the  process  of  cement- 
ation, producing  what  is  termed  blistered 
steel.  At  the  bottom  of  a  trough  about  2  feet 
square  and  14  feet  long,  usually  formed  of 
fire  clay,  is  placed  a  layer,  about  2  inches 
thick,  of  a  cement  composed  of  10  parts  char- 
coal and  1  part  ashes  and  common  salt;  upon 
this  is  laid  a  tier  of  thin  iron  bars  about  $ 
inch  apart;  between  and  over  them,  a  layer 
of  cement  is  spread,  then  a  second  row  of  bars, 
and  so  on,  alternately,  until  the  trough  is 
nearly  full ;  lastly  a  layer  of  cement  covered 
with  moist  sand  and  a  close  cover  of  fire-tiles, 
so  as  to  exclude  the  air.  The  trough  is  ex- 
posed to  the  heat  of  a  coal  fire,  until  a  full 


red  heat,  about  2000°  Fahr.,  is  obtained  and 
kept  up  steadily  for  about  7  days.  A  hole  is 
left  in  the  end  of  the  trough,  to  allow  of  a  bar 
being  drawn  out  for  examination.  "When  a 
bar,  on  being  withdrawn  and  broken,  has  ac- 
quired a  crystalline  texture,  the  metal  is  al- 
lowed to  cool  down  gradually,  some  days 
being  allowed  for  this,  and  the  charge,  when 
cool,  withdrawn  from  the  trough.  The  bars 
will  be  found  covered  with  large  blisters, 
hence  the  name  of  the  process,  and  increased 
about  rJtf  in  weight.  The  steel  is  now  suffi- 
ciently good  for  files  and  coarser  tools,  but 
for  finer  instruments,  several  varieties  of  finer 
steel  are  required.  (Makins). 

3275.  To  Make  Shear-Steel.    This  is 
produced  by  cutting  up  bars  of  blistered  steel, 
into  lengths  of  30  inches,  and  binding  them 
in  bundles  of  8  or  9  by  a  ring  of  steel,  a  rod 
being  fixed  for  a  handle.    These  are  brought 
to  a  welding  heat,  and  welded  together  under 
a  tilt  hammer.    The  binding  ring  is  then  re- 
moved;   and,   after   reheating,   the  mass  is 
forged  solid,  and  extended  into  a  bar.    In 
cases  where  this  operation  is  repeated,  the 
steel  is  called  double-shear  steel.    (Makins. ) 

3276.  To  Make  Cast-Steel.     Cast-steel 
is  the  best  variety  for  all  fine  cutting  tools. 
This  is  a  mixture  of  scraps  of  different  va- 
rieties of  blistered  steel,  collected  together  in  a 
good  refractory  clay  crucible ;   upon  this  a 
cover  is  luted,  and  it  is  exposed  to  an  intense 
heat  in  a  blast  furnace  for  3  or  4  hours.    The 
contents  are  then  run  into  moulds.    After 
being  subjected  to  the  blows  of  a  tilt-hammer, 
the  cast  steel  is  ready  for  use.     (Makins). 

3277.  Steel  Made  from  Iron  Scraps. 
Take  iron  scraps  in  small  pieces,  put  40  pounds 
in  a  crucible,  with  8  ounces  charcoal,  and  4 
ounces  black  oxide  of  manganese ;  expose  the 
whole  li  hours  to  a  high  heat,  and  run  into 
moulds. 

3278.  To  Blue  Steel.     The  mode  em- 
ployed in  blueing  steel  is  merely  to  subject  it 
to  heat.     The  dark  blue  is  produced  at  a  tem- 
perature of  600°,  the  full  blue  at  500°,  and  the 
blue  at  550°.    The  steel  must  be  finely  polish- 
ed on  its  surface,  and  then  exposed  to  a  uni- 
form degree  of  heat.     Accordingly,  there  are 
three  ways  of  coloring :  first,  by  a  flame  pro- 
ducing no  soot,  as  spirit  of  wine ;  secondly, 
by  a  hot  plate  of  iron ;  and  thirdly,  by  wood 
ashes.    As  a  very  regular  degree  of  heat  ia 
necessary,  wood  ashes  for  fine  work  bear  the 
preference.    The  work  must  be  covered  over 
with  them,  and  carefully  watched ;  when  the 
color  is  sufficiently  heightened,  the  work  is 
perfect.     This  color  is  occasionally  taken  off 
.with  a  very  dilute  muriatic  acid. 

3279.  'To  Blue  Small  Steel  Articles. 
Make  a  box  of  sheet  iron,  fill  it  with  sand, 
and  subject  it  to  a  great  heat.     The  articles 
to  be  blued  must  be  finished  and  well  polished. 
Immerse  the  articles  in  the  sand,  keeping 
watch  of  them  until  they  are  of  the  right 
color,  when  they  should  be  taken  out,  and  im- 
mersed in  oil. 

3280.  To  Make  Edge-Tools  from 
Cast-Steel  and  Iron.  This  method  consists 
in  fixing  a  clean  piece  of  wrought  iron,  brought 
to  a  welding  heat,  in  the  centre  of  a  mould, 
and  then  pouring  in  melted  steel,  so  as  entirely 
to  envelop  the  iron;  and  then  forging  the 
mass  into  the  shape  required. 


302 


STEEL. 


3281.  To  Remove  Scale  from  Steel. 
Scale  may  be  removed  from  steel  articles  by 
pickling  in  water  with  a  little  sulphuric  acid 
in  it,  and  when  the  scale  is  loosened,  brushing 
with  sand  and  a  stiff  brush. 

3282.  To  Restore  Burnt  Cast-Steel. 
Take  li  pounds  borax,  J  pound  sal-ammoniac, 
i  pound  prussiate  of  potash,  1  ounce  resin. 
Pound  the  above  fine,  add  a  gill  each  of  water 
and  alcohol.     Put  in  an  iron  kettle,  and  boil 
until  it  becomes  a  paste.     Do  not  boil  too 
long,  or  it  will  become  hard  on  cooling. 

3283.  To  Anneal  Steel.  For  a  small  quan- 
tity. Heat  the  steel  to  a  cherry  red  in  a  char- 
coal fire,  then  bury  it  in  sawdust,  in  an  iron 
boz,  covering  the  sawdust  with  ashes.  Let 
it  stay  until  cold.  For  a  larger  quantity,  and 
when  it  is  required  to  be  very  soft,  pack  the 
steel  with  cast-iron  (lathe  or  planer)  chips  in 
an  iron  box,  as  follows :  Having  at  least  i  or 
£  inch  in  depth  of  chips  in  the  bottom  of  box, 
put  in  a  layer  of  steel,  then  more  chips  to  fill 
spaces  between  the  steel,  and  also  the  i  or  f 
inch  space  between  the  sides  of  box  and  steel, 
then  more  steel ;  and,  lastly,  at  least  1  inch 
in  depth  of  chips,  well  rammed  down  on  top 
of  the  steel.  Heat  to  and  keep  at  a  red  heat 
for  from  2  to  4  hours.  Do  not  disturb  the  box 
until  cold. 

3284.  Engraving  Mixture  for  "Wri- 
ting on  Steel.     Sulphate  of  copper,  1  ounce ; 
sal-ammoniac,  i  ounce ;  pulverize  separately, 
adding  a  little  vermilion  to  color  it,  and  mix 
with  Ik  ounces  vinegar.     Rub  the  steel  with 
soft  soap  and  write  with  a  clean  hard  pen, 
without  a  slit,  dipped  in  the  mixture. 

3285.  Tempering  Tools.     The  steel  is 
generally  first  hardened  by  heating  it  to  a 
cherry  red,  and  then  plunging  it  into  cold  wa- 
ter.   Afterward  the  temper  is  drawn  by  mod- 
erately heating  the  steel  again.    Different  de- 
grees of  hardness  are  required  for  different 
purposes. 

For  very  pale  straw  color,  430°,  for  lancets. 

A  shade  of  darker  yellow,  450°,  for  razors 
and  surgical  instruments. 

Darker  straw  yellow,  470°,  for  pen-knives. 

Still  darker  yellow,  490°,  chisel  for  cutting 
iron. 

Brown  yellow,  500°,  axes  and  plane-irons. 

Yellow,  slightly  tinged  with  purple,  520°, 
table-knives  and  watch-springs. 

3286.  To  Temper  Drills.     Heat  the 
best  steel  to  a  cherry  red,  and  hammer  until 
nearly  cold,  forming  the  end. in  tp  the  requisite 
flattened  shape,  then  heat  it  again  to  a  cherry 
red,  and  plunge  it  into  a  lump  of  resin  or  into 
quicksilver.    A  solution  of  cyanide    of  po- 
tassium in  rain  water  is  sometimes  used  for  the 
tempering  plunge  bath,  but  it  is  not  as  good  as 
quicksilver  or  resin. 

3287.  To  Temper  Gravers.      These 
may  be  tempered  in  the  same  way  as  drills ; 
or  the  red  hot  instrument  may  be  pressed 
into  a  piece  of  lead,  in  which  a  hole  about  £ 
an  inch  deep  has  been  cut  to  receive  the 
graver;    the  lead  melting    around  and    en- 
closing it  will  give  it  an  excellent  temper. 

3288.  To  Temper  Spiral   Springs. 
Heat  to  a  cherry  red  in  a  charcoal  fire,  and 
harden  in  oil.     To  temper,  blaze  off  the  oil  3 
times,  the  same  as  for  flat  springs. 

3289.  To  Temper  Old  Files.  Grind 
out  the  cuttings  on  one  side,  until  a  bright 


surface  is  obtained ;  then  damp  the  surface 
with  a  little  oil,  and  lay  the  file  on  a  piece  of 
red-hot  iron,  bright  side  upwards.  In  about 
a  minute  the  bright  surface  will  begin  to  turn 
yellow;  and  when  the  yellow  has  deepened 
to  about  the  color  of  straw,  plunge  in  cold 
water. 

3290.  To  Make  Polished  Steel  Straw 
Color  or  Blue.      The  surface  of  polished 
steel   acquires   a  pale   straw    color    at  460° 
Fahr.,  and  a  uniform  deep  blue  at  580°  Fahr. 

3291.  To  Temper  Mill  Picks.     After 
working  the  steel  carefully,  prepare  a  bath 
of  lead  heated  to  the  boiling  point,  which  will 
be  indicated  by  a  slight  agitation  of  the  sur- 
face.   In  it  place  the  end  of  tine  pick  to  the 
depth  of  li  inches,  until  heated  to  the  tem- 
perature of  the  lead,  then  plunge  immediately 
in  clear  cold  water.     The  temper  will  be  just 
right,  if  the  bath  is  at  the  temperature  re- 
quired.   The  principal  requisities  in  making 
mill  picks  are:  First,  get  good  steel.     Second, 
work  it  at  a  low  heat;  most  blacksmiths  in- 
jure steel  by  overheating.     Third,   heat   for 
tempering  without  direct  exposure  to  the  fire. 
The  lead  bath  acts  merely  as  protection  against 
the  heat,  which  is  almost  always  too  great  to 
temper  well. 

3292.  Bath  for  Hardening  Mill  Picks. 
Take  2  gallons  rain  water,  1  ounce   corrosive 
sublimate,  1  of  sal-ammoniac,  1  of  saltpetre, 
1^  pints  rock  salt.    The  picks  should  be  heat- 
ed to  a  cherry  red,  and  cooled  in  the  bath. 
The  salt  gives  hardness,  and  the  other  ingre- 
dients toughness  to  the  steel ;  and  they  will 
not  break,  if  they  are  left  without  drawing  the 
temper. 

329.3.  Composition  for  Tempering 
Cast-Steel  Mill  Picks.  To  3  gallons  of 
water,  add  3  ounces  each  nitric  acid,  spirits  of 
hartshorn,  sulphate  of  zinc,  sal-ammoniac, 
and  alum;  6  ounces  salt,  with  a  double  hand- 
ful of  hoof-parings ;  the  steel  to  be  heated  a 
dark  cherry  red.  It  must  be  kept  corked 
tight  to  prevent  evaporation. 

3294.  Tempering  Steel.     Mr.   N.    P. 
Ames,  late  of  Chicopee,  Mass.,  after  expend- 
ing much  time  and  money  in  experiments, 
found  that  the  most  successful  means  of  tem- 
pering swords  and  cutlasses  that  would  stand 
the  United  States  Government  test,  was  by 
heating  in  a  charcoal  fire,  hardening  in  pure 
spring  water,   and  drawing   the    temper    in 
charcoal  flame.     (See  No.  3285.) 

3295.  To  Straighten  Hardened  Steel. 
To  straighten  a  piece  of  steel  already  harden- 
ed and  tempered,  heat  it  lightly,  not  enough 
to  draw  the  temper,  and  you  may  straighten 
it  on  an  anvil  with  a  hammer,  if  really  not 
dead  cold.    It  is  best,  however,  to  straighten 
it  between  the  centres  of  a  lathe,  if  a  turned 
article,  or  on  a  block  of  wood  with  a  mallet. 
"Warm,  it  yields  readily  to  the  blows  of  the 
mallet,  but  cold,  it  would  break  like  glass. 

3296.  To  Restore  the  Power  of 
Horseshoe  Magnets.  To  restore  horseshoe 
magnets  that  have  lost  their  power  from  dis- 
use, proceed  as  with  new  ones.  Place  the 
poles  of  the  magnet  to  be  charged,  against 
the  poles  of  another,  making  opposite  poles 
meet.  Then  draw  a  piece  of  soft  iron,  placed 
at  right  angles  upon  the  magnet  to  be  charged, 
from  the  poles  to  the  bend.  Do  this  a  number 
of  times  on  each  side  of  the  magnet.  If  the 


STEEL. 


SOS 


magnet  is  of  good  steel,  this  produces  a  max- 
imum power.  It  is  the  method  of  Jacobi, 
and  is  considered  one  of  the  best. 

3297.  Case-Hardening  is  the  operation 
of  giving  a  surface  of  steel  to  pieces  of  iron, 
by  which  they  are  rendered  capable  of  receiv- 
ing great  external  hardness,  while  the  interior 
portion   retains   all    the    toughness  of   good 
wrought-iron.     This  is  accomplished  by  heat- 
ing the  iron  in  contact  with  animal  carbon,  in 
close  vessels.     George  Edo  says: — The  articles 
intended  to  be  case-hardened  are  put  into  the 
box  with  animal  carbon,  and  the  box  made 
air-tight  by  luting  it  with  clay.     They  are 
then  placed  in  the  fire  and  kept  at  a  light  red 
heat  for  any  length  of  time,  according  to  the 
depth  required.     In  half  an  hcrur  after  the 
box  and  its  contents  have  been  heated  quite 
through,  the  hardness  will  scarcely  be  the 
thickness  of  a  half  dime;  in  an  hour,  double; 
and  so  forth,  till  the  desired  depth  is  acquired. 
The  box  is  then  taken  from  the  fire,  and  the 
contents  emptied  into  pure  cold  water.     They 
can  then  be  taken  out  of  the  water  and  dried 
(to  keep  them  from  rusting),  by  riddling  them 
in  a  sieve  with  some  dry  saw-dust ;  and  they 
are  then  ready  for  polishing.     Case-hardening 
is  a  superficial  conversion  of  iron  into  steel. 
It  is  not  always  merely  for  economy  that  iron 
is  case-hardened,  but  for  a  multitude  of  things 
it  is  preferable  to  steel,  and  answers  the  pur- 
pose better.     Delicate  articles,  to  keep  from 
blistering  while  heating,  may  be  dipped  into 
a  powder  of  burnt  leather,  or  bones,  or  other 
coaly  animal  matter. 

3298.  To  Case-Harden  with  Charcoal. 
The  goods,  finished  in  every  respect  but  pol- 
ishing, are  put  into  an  iron  box,  and  covered 
with   animal  or  vegetable  charcoal,  and  ce- 
mented at  a  red  heat,  for  a  period  varying 
with  the  size  and  description  of  the  articles 
operated  on. 

3299.  Moxon's  Method  of  Case-Hard- 
ening.    Cow's  horn  or  hoof  is  to  be  baked 
or  thoroughly  dried,  and  pulverized,  in  order 
that  more  may  bo  got  into  the  box  with  the 
articles.     Or  bones  reduced  to  dust  answer  the 
same  purpose.     To  this  add  an  equal  quantity 
of  bay  salt;  mix  them  with  stale  chamber- 
lye,  or  white  wine  vinegar;   cover  the  iron 
with  this  mixture,  and  bed  it  in  the  same  in 
loam,  or  enclose  it  in  an  iron  box ;  lay  it  on 
the  hearth  of  the  forge  to  dry  and  harden ; 
then  put  it  into  the  fire,  and  blow  till  the 
lump  has  a  blood-red   heat,  and  no  higher, 
lest  the  mixture  be  burnt  too  much.    Take 
the  iron  out,  and  immerse  it  in  water. 

3300.  To  Case-Harden.     Make  a  paste 
with  a  concentrated  solution  of  prussiate  of 
potash  and  loam,  and  coat  the  iron  therewith ; 
then  expose  it  to  a  strong  red  heat,  and  when 
it  has  fallen  to  a  dull  red,  plunge  the  whole 
into  cold  water. 

330 1 .  To  Case-Harden  Polished  Iron. 
The  iron,  previously  polished  and  finished,  is 
to  be  heated  to  a  bright  red  and  rubbed  or 
sprinkled  over  with  prussiate  of  potash.     As 
soon  as  the  prussiate  appears  to  be  decompos- 
ed and  dissipated,  plunge  the  article  into  cold 
water.     "WTien  the  process  of  case-hardening 
has  been  well  conducted,  the  surface  of  the 
metal  proves  sufficiently  hard  to  resist  a  file. 
The  last  two  plans  are  a  great  improvement 
upon  the  common  method.     By  the  applica- 


tion of  the  prussiate,  as  in  the  last  receipt, 
any  part  of  a  piece  of  iron  may  be  case-hard- 
ened, without  interfering  with  the  rest. 

3302.  Improved  Process  of  Harden- 
ing Steel.     Articles  manufactured  of  steel 
for  the  purposes  of  cutting,  are,  almost  with- 
out an  exception,  taken  from  the  forger  to  the 
hardener  without   undergoing   any   interme- 
diate process ;   and  such  is  the  accustomed 
routine,  that  the  mischief  arising  has  escaped 
observation.     The  act  of  forging  produces  a 
strong  scale  or  coating,  which  is  spread  over 
the  whole  of  the  blade ;  this  scale  or  coating 
is  unequal  in  substance,  varying  in  proportion 
to  the  degree  of  heat  communicated  to  the 
steel  in  forging ;  it  is  almost  impenetrable  to 
the  action  of  water  when  immersed  for  the 
purpose  of  hardening.     Hence  it  is  that  dif- 
ferent degrees  of  hardness  prevail  in  nearly 
every  razor  manufactured ;  this  is  evidently  a 
positive  defect;  and  so  long  as  it  continues  to 
exist,  great  difference  of  temper  must  exist 
likewise.      Instead,   therefore,   of  hardening 
the  blade  from  the  anvil,  let  it  be  passed  im- 
mediately from  the  hands  of  the  forger  to  the 
grinder ;  a  slight  application  of  the  stone  will 
remove  the  whole  of  the  scale  or  coating,  and 
the  razor  will  then  be  properly  prepared  to 
undergo  the  operation  of  hardening  with  ad- 
vantage.   It  is  plain  that  steel  in  this  state 
heats  in  the  fire  with  greater  regularity,  and 
that,  when  immersed,  becomes  equally  hard 
from  one  extremity  to  the  other.     To  this  may 
be  added,  that,  as  the  lowest  possible  heat  at 
which  steel  becomes  hard  is  indubitably  the 
best,   the  mode  here  recommended  will  be 
found  the  only  one  by  which  the  process  of 
hardening  can  be  effected  with  a  less  portion 
of  fire  than  is,  or  can  be,  required  in  any  other 
way.    These  observations  are  decisive,  and 
will,  in  all  probability,  tend  to  establish  in 
general  use  what  cannot  but  be  regarded  as  a 
very  important  improvement  in  the  manufac- 
turing of  edge  steel  instruments. 

3303.  To  Case-Harden  Small  Articles 
of  Iron.     Fuse  together,  in  an  iron  vessel 
or  crucible,  1  part  prussiate  of  potash  and  10 
parts  common  salt,  and  allow  the  article  to 
remain  in  the  liquid  30  minutes,  then  put  them 
in  cold  water  and  they  will  be  case-hardened. 

3304.  To  Clean  a  Shot  Gun.     Wrap 
clean  tow  around  the  cleaning  rod;  then  take 
a  bucket  of  tepid  water — soap-suds  if  procura- 
ble— and  run  the  rod  up  and  down  the  barrel 
briskly  until  the  water  is  quite  black.     Change 
the  water  until  it  runs  quite  clear  through 
the.  nipple;    pour    clean  tepid   water  down 
the  barrel,  and  rub  dry  with  fresh  clean  tow ; 
run  a  little  sweet  oil  on  tow  down  the  barrel 
for  use.     To  clean  the  stock,  rub  it  with  lin- 
seed oil.      If  boiling  hot  water  is  used  the 
barrel  will  dry  sooner,  and  no  fear  need  be 
apprehended  of  its  injuring  the  temper  of  a 
fine  gun.     Some  sportsmen  use  boiling  vine- 
gar, but  we  cannot  recommend  this  method. 
The  reason  hot  water  does  not  injure  the  gun, 
is  that  boiling  water  is  only  212°  Fahr.,  and 
the  gun  was  heated  to  450°  to   give  it  its 
proper  temper. 

3305.  Grease  for  Anointing  Gun- 
Barrels  on  the  Sea-Shore.     It  is  said  that 
an  ointment  made  of  corrosive  sublimate  and 
lard  will  prove  an  effectual  protection  against 
the  rusting  of  gun-barrels  on  the  sea-shore. 


ZINC— TIN. 


3306.  To  Protect  Polished  Steel  (fl 
from  Rust.  Nothing  is  equal  to  pure 
paraffme  for  preserving  the  polished  surface 
of  iron  and  steel  from  oxidation.  The  par- 
affine  should  be  warmed,  rubbed  on,  and 
then  wiped  off  with  a  woolen  rag.  It  will 
not  change  the  color,  whether  bright  or  blue, 
and  will  protect  the  surface  better  than  any 
varnish. 

3307.  To    Protect    Polished  Metal 
from  Rust.     Take  10  pounds  gutta-percha, 
20  pounds  mutton  suet,  30  pounds  beef  suet, 
2  gallons  neats'  foot  oil,  and  1  gallon  rape  oil. 
Melt  together  until  thoroughly  dissolved  and 
mixed,  and  color  with  a  small  portion  of  rose 
pink ;  oil  of  thyme  or  other  perfuming  matter 
may  be  added.    When  cold  the  composition 
is  to  be  rubbed  on  the  surface  of  bright  steel, 
iron,  brass,  or  other  metal,  requiring  protec- 
tion from  rust. 

3308.  To  Remove  Rust  from  Steel. 
Rust  may  bo  removed  from  steel  by  immers- 
ing the  article  in  kerosene  oil  for  a  few  days. 
The  rust  will  become  so  much  loosened  that 
it  may  easily  be  rubbed  off.     By  this  simple 
method  badly  rusted  knives  and  forks  may  be 
made  to  present  a  tolerable  appearance,  but 
for  new  goods  there  is  no  way  to  remove  rust 
from  metal  but  by  getting  below  it,  or  renew- 
ing the  surface.     Where  it  is  not  deep-seated, 
emery  paper  will  do,  but  if  long  standing  the 
goods  must  be  refinished. 

3309.  New  Mode  of  Removing  Rust. 
Plunge  the  article  in  a  bath  of  1  pint  hydro- 
chloric (muriatic)  acid  diluted  with  1  quart 
water.     Leave  it  there  24  hours;  then  take  it 
out  and  rub  well  with  a  scrubbing-brush.    The 
oxide  will  come  off  like  dirt  under  the  action 
of  soap.     Should  any  still  remain,  as  is  likely, 
in  the  corroded  parts,  return  the  metal  to  the 
bath  for  a  few  hours  more,  and  repeat  the 
scrubbing.     The  metal  will  present  the  ap- 
pearance of  dull  lead.    It  must  then  be  well 
washed  in  plain  water  several    times,   and 
thoroughly  dried  before  a   fire.      Lastly,   a 
little  rubbing  with  oil  and  fine  emery  powder 
will  restore  the  polish.     Should  oil  or  grease 
have  mingled  with  the  rust,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  remove  it  by  a  hot  solution  of  soda 
before  submitting  the  metal  to  the  acid.    This 
last  attacks  the  rust  alone,  without  injuring 
the  steel ;  but  the  washing  in  plain  water  is 
all-important,  as,  after  the  process,  the  metal 
will  absorb  oxygen  from  the  atmosphere  freely 
if  any  trace  of  the  acid  be  allowed  to  remain. 


Z1HC.  Zinc  is  a  blueish  white  metal, 
having  a  specific  gravity  of  6.8  to  7.2 ; 
tough  when  cold,  ductile  and  malleable  at 
from  250°  to  300°  Fahr.,  brittle  and  easily 
pulverized  at  500°;  fuses  at  773°,  and  sub- 
limes unchanged  at  a  white  heat,  in  close 
vessels.  It  is  scarcely  affected  by  exposure 
to  air  and  moisture  ;  hence  its  general  use  in 
the  arts  for  the  manufacture  of  vessels  of 
capacity,  tubing,  &c.,  that  require  lightness 
aud  durability.  Acids,  even  diluted,  attack 
zinc  rapidly.  It  is  also  soluble  in  caustic 
alkalies.  Heated  to  whiteness,  941°  Fahr., 
in  contact  with  the  air,  it  burns  with  great 
brilliancy,  and  is  converted  into  oxide, 


owers  of  zinc).  It  is  very  soluble  in  dilute 
sulphuric  and  muriatic  acid,  with  the  evolu- 
tion of  hydrogen  gas.  The  salts  of  zinc  are 
colorless. 

Commercial  zinc  is  never  pure,  and  is  ob- 
tained from  the  native  sulphuret  (zinc  blende) 
or  carbonate  (calamine),  by  roasting  those . 
ores,  and  distilling  them  along  with  carbon- 
aceous matter  in  a  covered  earthen  crucible, 
having  its  bottom  connected  with  an  iron 
tube  which  terminates  over  a  vessel  of  water 
situated  beneath  the  furnace.  The  first  por- 
tion that  passes  over  contains  cadmium  and 
arsenic,  and  is  indicated  by  what  is  technically 
called  the  brown  blaze;  but  when  the  metallic 
vapor  begins  to  burn  with  a  blueish  white 
flame,  or  the  Hue  blaze  commences,  the 
volatilized  metal  is  collected.  Zinc  may  be 
alloyed  with  most  of  the  metals.  ( Cooley. ) 

3311.  Purification  of  Zinc.     Granulate 
zinc  by  melting,  and  pouring  it,  while  very 
hot,  into  a  deep  vessel  filled  with  water.    Place 
the  granulated  zinc  in  a  Hessian  crucible,  in 
alternate  layers,  with  one-fourth  its  weight 
of  nitre,  with  an  excess  of  nitre  at  the  top. 
Cover  the  crucible,  and  secure  the  lid ;  then 
apply  heat.    "When  deflagration  takes  place, 
remove  from  the  fire,  separate  the  dross,  and 
run  the  zinc  into  an  ingot  mould.     It  is  quite 
free  from  arsenic. 

3312.  To  Granulate  Zinc.     Granulated 
zinc  is  obtained  by  pouring  the  molten  metal 
into  a  warm  mortar  and  triturating  vigorously, 
with  an  iron  pestle,  until  it  solidifies.     (See 
No.  3311.) 

3313.  To  Color  Metals.     Make  a  .solu- 
tion of  4  ounces  hyposulphite  of  soda  in  1J 
pints  of  water,  and  add  a  solution  of  1  ouu«e 
acetate  of  lead  in  the  same  quantity  of  water. 
Articles  to  be  colored  are  placed  in  the  mix- 
ture, which  is  then  gradually  heated  to  a 
boiling  point.     The  effect  of  this  solution  is 
to  give  iron  the  effect  of  blue  steel,  zinc  be- 
comes bronze,  and  copper  or  brass  becomes 
successively  yellowish  red,  scarlet,  deep  blue, 
blueish  white,  and  finally  white  with  a  tinge 
of  rose.     This  solution  has  no  effect  on  lead 
or  tin.    By  replacing  the  acetate  of  lead  in 
the   solution  with  sulphate  of  copper,  brass 
becomes  of  a  fine  rosy  tint,  then  green,  and 
finally,  of  an  iridescent  brown  color.     Zinc 
does  not  color  in  this  solution,  it  throws  down 
a  precipitate  of  brown  sulphuret  of  copper ; 
but  if  boiled  in  a  solution  containing   both 
lead  and  copper,  it  becomes  covered  with  a 
black  crust,  which  may  be  improved  by  a  thin 
coating  of  wax.     (See  No.  3188.) 


Till.  This  metal  approaches  silver  in 
whiteness  and  lustre.  When  pure,  it 
is  very  malleable ;  is  harder,  than  lead ;  melts 
at  442°  Fahr.,  and  volatilizes  at  a  white  heat. 
Its  specific  gravity  is  7.29  to  7.31.  This  met- 
al is  decomposed  by  nitric,  sulphuric,  and 
muriatic  acids;  and  may  be  combined  and 
alloyed  with  most  of  the  useful  metals.  Tin 
occurs  in  nature  in  the  state  of  the  oxide,  and 
sometimes  as  sulphuret  (tin  pyrites.)  In 
Cornwall,  England,  it  is  found  under  the  name 
of  tin- stone,  associated  with  copper  ore,  in 
the  slate  or  granite  rocks  ;  and  as  an  alluvial 


deposit  (stream  tin)  in  the  beds  of  rivers. 
A  pure  article  of  tin  comes  from  Banca.  The 
metal  is  obtained  from  the  ore,  first  reduced 
to  powder  in  stamping  mills,  washed  to  re- 
move earthy  matter,  and  then  roasted  to 
expel  arsenic  and  sulphur ;  it  is  then  deoxi- 
dized or  reduced  by  smelting  with  about  £  its 
weight  of  powdered  culm  (a  kind  of  coal 
found  in  "Wales),  and  a  little  slacked  lime ;  it 
is  next  refined  by  liquation  (see  No.  21),  fol- 
lowed by  a  second  smelting  of  the  purer  por- 
tion ;  it  is  then,  while  in  a  state  of  fusion, 
stirred  with  billets  of  green  wood,  allowed  to 
settle,  and  cast  into  moulds.  The  product  is 
termed  refined  or  block-tin.  Tin  produces  a 
peculiar  crackling  noise  when  bent ;  in  this 
manner  pure  tin  foil  may  be  distinguished 
from  the  so-called  tin  foil  in  general  use, 
which  consists  of  lead  with  a  tin  surface  only. 

3315.  Tests  for  the  Purity  of  Tin. 
It  is  almost  entirely  dissolved  by  hydrochloric 
acid,  yielding  a  colorless  solution  of  muriate 
(chloride)   of  tin.      If   it    contains  arsenic, 
brownish-black  flocks  will  be  separated  dur- 
ing the  solution,  and  arseniuretted  hydrogen 
evolved.     The  presence  of  other  metals  in  tin 
may  be  detected  by  treating  the  muriate  of 
tin  solution  with  nitric  acid,  specific  gravity 
1.16,  first  in  the  cold,  and  afterwards  with 
heat,  until  all  the  tin  is  precipitated  in  an 
insoluble  peroxide ;   the  decanted  acid  solu- 
tion from  pure  tin  leaves  no  residuum  on 
evaporation.      If  there  be  a  residuum,  and 
dilution  with  water  occasions  a  heavy  white 
precipitate,   the  tin  contained  bismuth.    If, 
after  dilution,  the  addition  of  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  ammonia  or  of  soda  produces  a 
white  precipitate,  the  tin  contained  lead.    If 
red  prussiate  of  potash  gives  a  blue  precipitate, 
it  contained  iron;    and  if  the  clear  liquid 
leaves  a  residuum  on  evaporation,  it  contained 
copper. 

3316.  Grain  Tin.     This  is  made  from 
block  tin.     The  blocks  are  heated  until  they 
become  brittle,  and  then  allowed  to  fall  from 
a  considerable  height,  by  which  they  are  bro- 
ken into   small  fragments,  which  constitute 
grain  tin,  or  tin  in  tears. 

3317.  Tin  Powder  or  Filings.    Melt 
grain  tin  (see  No.  3316)  in  an  iron  vessel,  pour 
it  in  an  earthen-ware  mortar  heated  a  little 
above  its  melting  point,  and  triturate  brisk- 
ly as  the  metal  cools ;  lastly,  sift  the  product, 
and  repeat  the  process  with  what  remains  in 
the  sieve.     Powdered  tin  is  also  prepared  by 
filing  and  rasping. 

3318.  Powdered  Tin.      Take  Cornish 
grain  tin ;  melt  it,  and  pour  it  into  a  wooden 
box,  well  rubbed  on  the  inside  with  whiting 
or  chalk  ;  close  the  cover,  and  continue  shak- 
ing it  violently  until  the  tin  is  reduced  to 
powder ;  then  wash  it  in  clean  water,   and 
dry  it  immediately. 

3319.  To  Make  Feathered  Tin.    The 
object  of  feathering  is  to  bring  the  tin  into  a 
state  of  minute  subdivision,  which  permits  it 
to  be  much  more  rapidly  dissolved  in  acids. 
Procure  an  iron  ladle  having  a  capacity  of 
about  12  fluid  ounces,  and  a  wooden  or  stone- 
ware vessel  containing  2  or  3  gallons  of  cold 
water.     About  1  pound  of  pure  bar  tin,  free 
from  lead,  is  to  be  cut  into  pieces  of  about  2 
inches  in  length,   and  melted  in  the  ladle. 
"When  melted,  pour  the  tin  in  a  very  small 


NICKEL.  3Q5 

stream,  from  a  height  of  about  3  feet,  into  the 
cold  water.  The  ladle  should  be  moved 
around  in  a  small  circle,  when  pouring,  for  if 
the  whole  of  the  melted  tin  strikes  the  water 
at  one  point,  it  will  cool  in  lumps,  and  re- 
quire remelting.  The  feathered  tin  is  to  be 
preserved  in  wooden  boxes,  the  bottoms  of 
which  are  perforated  with  small  holes;  or, 
what  is  better,  kept  in  unglazed  stoneware 
flower-pots.  Solutions  of  tin  containing  iron 
or  copper,  or  their  salts,  are  unfit  for  dyeing 
bright  reds.  (See  Nos.  107,  ^-c.) 

3320.  Moire  Metallique,  or  Crystal- 
lized Tin.     A  method  of  ornamenting  the 
surface  of  tin  plate  by  acids.     The  plates  are 
washed  with  an  alkaline  solution,   then  in 
water,  heated,  and  sponged  or  sprinkled  with 
the  acid    solution.      The    appearance  varies 
with  the  degree  of  heat  and  the  nature  and 
strength  of  the  acids  employed.     The  plates, 
after  the  application  of  the  acids,  are  plunged 
into  water,   slightly   acidulated,    dried,    and 
covered  with  white  or  colored  varnishes.    The 
following  are  some  of  the  acid  mixtures  used : 
nitre-muriatic  acid,  in  different  degrees  of  di- 
lution ;  sulphuric  acid,  with  5  parts  of  water, 
1  part  of  sulphuric  acid,  2  of  muriatic  acid, 
and  8  of  water;  a  strong  solution  of  nitric 
acid;  1  part  nitric  acid,  2  sulphuric,  and  18 
of  water.    A  solution  of  potash  is  also  used. 

3321.  Frosted  Tin.    A  frosted  appear- 
ance may  be  given  to  sheet  tin  by  a  wash  of 
bichloride  of  tin. 

3322.  To  Make  a  Tin  Tree.     Dissolve 
3  drachms  muriate  (chloride)  of  tin  in  1  pint 
distilled  water,  adding  10  or  15  drops  nitric 
acid ;  and  suspend  a  small  rod  of  clean  zinc  in 
a  phial  containing  the  above  solution. 


Nickel.  A  white,  hard,  malleable, 
magnetic  metal,  capable  of  receiving 
the  lustre  of  silver.  Its  specific  gravity,  when 
hammered,  is  about  8.82.  Nickel  is  very  in- 
fusible. Muriatic  and  sulphuric  acid  act  on 
it  with  difficulty  unless  mixed  with  nitric 
acid,  but  it  is  freely  soluble  in  the  latter. 
Nickel  does  not  oxidize  or  tarnish  at  the  or- 
dinary temperature.  It  alloys  well  with  cop- 
per, tin,  zinc,  etc.  It  is  obtained  as  Tollows : 
Roast  the  powdered  ore  first  by  itself  and 
then  with  charcoal  powder,  till  all  the  arsenic 
is  expelled,  and  a  garlic  odor  ceases  to  be 
evolved ;  mix  the  residuum  with  3  parts  sulphur 
and  1  part  potash ;  melt  in  a  crucible  with  a 
gentle  heat,  cool,  edulcorate  with  water,  dis- 
solve in  sulphuric  acid  mixed  with  a  little 
nitric  acid,  precipitate  with  carbonate  of  pot- 
ash, wash,  dry,  mix  the  precipitate  with 
powdered  charcoal,  and  reduce  it  by  heat. 
For  chemical  purposes  pure  nickel  is  best  ob- 
tained by  moderately  heating  its  oxalate  in 
a  covered  crucible,  lined  with  charcoal.  The 
salts  of  nickel  in  the  anhydrous  state  are  for 
the  most  part  yellow ;  when  hydrated,  green, 
and  furnishing  pale  green  solutions.  Nickel 
is  found  present  in  meteoric  iron,  and  is 
strongly  magnetic,  but  loses  this  property 
when  heated  to  350°  Fahr.  It  is  chiefly 
employed  in  the  manufacture  of  German  sil- 
ver. Sulphate  of  nickel  is  used  medicinally, 
with  soothing  and  soporific  effects. 


306 


HER  C  UB  T—AL  UMIN  UM. 


Merciiry  or  Quicksilver 
This  is  a  neavy  liquid  metal,  possess 
ing  a  nearly  silver- white  color,  and  a  brillian 
metallic  lustre.  The  principal  sources  of  thi 
metal  at  the  present  time  are  the  mines  of  Idria 
in  Carniola,  and  Almaden  in  Spain,  where  i 
exists  under  the  form  of  cinnabar,  from  which 
the  pure  metal  is  obtained  by  distilling  tha 
ore  with  lime  or  iron  filings  in  iron  retorts,  by 
which  the  sulphur  it  contains  is  seized  ant 
retained,  while  the  mercury  rises  in  the  stat( 
of  vapor,  and  is  condensed  in  suitable  receiv 
ers.  Its  specific  gravity,  when  pure,  i 
13.5;  it  solidifies  at  —39°  (39°  below  zero. 
Fahr.,  and  when  solid  is  ductile,  malleable 
and  tenacious  ;  boils  at  662°  Fahr.,  but  vol- 
atilizes slowly  at  the  ordinary  temperature 
of  the  atmosphere,  and  when  mixed  with 
water  at  from  140°  to  160°,  it  is  volatilized  in 
considerable  quantities.  It  unites  with  oxy- 
gen, forming  two  oxides;  and  with  chlorine 
forming  calomel  and  corrosive  sublimate:, 
with  the  metals  it  forms  amalgams,  combin- 
ing, however,  with  difficulty  with  iron,  nickel, 
platinum,  and  some  other  less  importanl 
metals.  Its  oxides  form  salts  with  the  acids. 
The  only  acids  that  act  on  metallic  mercury 
are  the  sulphuric  and  nitric ;  but  for  this  pur- 
pose the  former  must  be  heated. 

3325.  Test  for  the  Purity  of  Mercury. 
Metallic  mercury  may  be  known  by  its  vola- 
tility; and  when,  in  a  finely  divided  or  pul- 
verulent state,  by  the  microscope,  or  by  stain- 
ing a  piece  of  copper  white  when  rubbed  on 
it,  or  when  heated  beneath  it.    It  is  totally 
dissipated  by  heat,  and  dissolved  by  diluted 
nitric  acid,  but  is  insoluble  in  boiling  muriatic 
acid.    The  acid  poured  off,   and  allowed  to 
cool,  is  neither  colored,  nor  yields  a  precipi 
tate  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen.    A  globule 
moved  about  on  a  sheet  of  paper  yields  no 
trail ;  pure  sulphuric  acid  agitated  with  it  (in 
the  cold)  evaporates  when  heated,  without 
leaving  any  residuum. 

3326.  To  Purify  Mercury.    Mercury, 
as  imported,  is  usually  very  pure.    It  may  be 
prepared  for  medical  purposes  by  putting  6 
parts  into  a  retort  and  distilling  off  4  parts. 
The  whole  of  the  mercury  may,  however,  be 
safely  drawn  over.     The  product  is  to  be  agi- 
tated and  boiled  with  2  fluid  drachms  hydro- 
chloric acid  and  1  fluid  ounce  water  for  each 
pound  of  the  metal;  then  washed  with  pure 
water,  and  dried  by  heat.    A  strong  earthen- 
ware or  iron  retort,  with  a  low  neck  or  tube 
dipping  into  a  basin  of  water,  may  be  used  for 
this  purpose. 

3327.  To  Purify  Mercury.     One  of  the 

quickest  and  best  means  of  purifying  mercury 
is  to  agitate  it  with  a  concentrated  solution  of 
nitrate  of  mercury,  at  a  heat  of  104°  Fahr., 
then  wash  it  with  distilled  water,  and  dry 
by  passing  several  times  through  clean,  dry 
chamois  leather. 

3328.  To  Purify  Mercury.    Distill  equal 
parts  of  mercury  and  iron  filings  in  an  iron 
retort,  into  a  vessel  containing  water. 

3329.  To  Purify  Mercury.     The  fol- 
lowing simple  method  of  purifying  quicksilver 
is  bv  Dr.  Miller :  Put  the  quicksilver  into  a 
bottle    capable    of   containing   4    times    its 
quantity,  add  a  little  powdered  loaf  sugar, 
and  stopper  the  bottle;  shake  it  vigorously 


for  a  few  minutes,  then  open  the  bottle  and 
blow  fresh  air  into  it  with  a  pair  of  bellows. 
Eepeat  this  3  or  4  times,  and  filter  the  mix- 
ture through  a  cone  of  smooth  writing  paper 
having  its  apex  pierced  with  a  fine  pin.  The 
sugar  is  left  behind  in  the  filter  with  the 
oxides  of  any  other  metals  present,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  mercury  in  a  state  of  minute 
division. 


This  is  the  metallic 
base  of  alumina,  which  is  the  plastic 
principle  of  certain  kinds  of  clay.    The  color 
of  aluminum  is  white,  inclining  to  blue ;  it  is 
very  malleable,  and  ductile.    Its  specific  grav- 
ity is  only  about  2.60 ;  its  melting  point  not 
less  than  1000°  Fahr.     It  is  the  most  sonorous 
of  _  all  metals.     It  is  thus  obtained: — Make  a 
thick  paste  of  alumina,  powdered  charcoal, 
sugar,  and  oil,  and  heat  it  in  a  covered  cruci- 
ble until  all  the  organic  matter  is  destroyed ; 
then  transfer  the  product  to  a  porcelain  tube, 
and  connect  the  one  end  with  another  tube 
containing  dried  chloride  of  calcium,  and  the 
other  end  with  a  small  tubulated  receiver. 
Then  expose  the  porcelain  tube  to  the  heat  of 
a  small  oblong  furnace,  and,  having  connected 
the  chloride  of  calcium  tube  with  a  vessel  dis- 
engaging chlorine,  pass  the  gas  through  the 
apparatus,  at  the  same  time  raising  the  heat  of 
the  tube  to  redness.     In  1  or  2  hours,  or  as 
soon  as  the  tube  becomes  choked,  the  whole 
must  be  allowed  to  cool,  and  taken  to  pieces, 
and  the    sesquichloride    of  aluminum    thus 
formed  collected.     Then  place  9  or  10  pieces 
of  potassium,  of  about  the  size  of  peas,  in  a 
platina  crucible,   and    upon  them  an  equal 
number  of  similar  pieces  of  the  sesquichloride 
of  alumina,  formed  as  above;  the  cover  is  now 
to  be  put  on  and  secured  in  its  place  with  a 
wire,  and  the  heat  of  a  spirit  lamp  cautiously 
applied,  until  the  spontaneous  incandescence 
or  the  matter  ceases.    "When  cold,  throw  the 
crucible  into  a  large  vessel  of  cold  water,  agi- 
tate and  collect  the  gray  powder  deposited, 
and  again  wash  it  well  and  dry  it.     This  gray 
powder  consists  of  small  metallic  scales,  re- 
sembling platina.    It  is  not  acted  on  by  cold 
water,  but  is  dissolved  by  the  alkalies  and 
some  of  the  acids.    Heated  to  redness,   it 
catches  fire  and  burns  with  great  rapidity  in 
;he  air,  and  in  oxygen  gas,  with  intense  bril- 
iancy.    The  powder,  blown  upon  the  flame 
of  a  candle,  displays  an  immense  number  of 
inflamed  points  of  great  splendor. 

3331.  TS  Polish  Aluminum.  The 
iubstances  generally  employed  for  polishing 
aluminum  are  of  no  utility.  Mouray  recom- 
mends the  use  of  an  emulsion  of  equal  parts 
of  rum  and  olive  oil,  made  by  shaking  these 
iquids  together  in  a  bottle.  When  the  bur- 
nishing stone  is  used,  the  peculiar  black  streaks 
irst  appearing  should  not  cause  vexation, 
since  they  do  not  injure  the  metal  in  the  least, 
and  may  be  removed  with  a  woolen  rag.  The 
objects  in  question  may  also  be  brightened  in 
)otash  lye,  in  which  case,  however,  care  must 
>e  taken  not  to  make  use  of  too  strong  a  lye. 
?or  cleaning  purposes,  benzole  has  been  found 
>est.  Objects  of  aluminum  can  be  electro- 
)lated  without  the  least  difficulty,  and  Mouray 
ucceeded  in  imparting  to  them  a  bright,  white 


PLATINUM— ANTIMONY. 


307 


lustre  in  passing  them  successively  through  a 
weak  bath  of  hydrofluoric  acid  and  aqua  fortis. 
The  effect  thus  obtained  is  said  to  be  really 
surprising. 

3332.  To  Frost  Aluminum.  The 
metal  is  piunged  into  a  solution  of  caustic 
potash.  The  surface,  becoming  frosted,  does 
not  tarnish  on  exposure  to  the  air. 


PlatinilHl  —  also  called  platina — is 
the  heaviest  substance  but  one  (see  No. 
47)  known,  having  a  specific  gravity  of  fully 
21,  which  may  be  raised  to  about  21.5  by 
hammering.  It  is  whiter  than  iron,  harder 
than  silver,  infusible  in  the  hottest  furnace, 
and  melts  only  before  the  compound  blow- 
pipe at  a  heat  of  about  3080°  Fahr.  On  this 
account  it  is  valuable  for  making  capsules 
&c.,  intended  to  resist  strong  heat.  Platinum 
undergoes  no  change  by  exposure  to  air  and 
moisture,  or  the  strongest  heat  of  a  smith's 
forge,  and  is  not  attacked  by  any  of  the  pure 
acids,  but  is  dissolved  by  chlorine  and  nitro- 
muriatic  acid  (aqua  regia),  though  with  more 
difficulty  than  gold.  Spongy  and  powdered 
platinum  possess  the  remarkable  property  of 
causing  the  union  of  oxygen  and  hydrogen 
gases.  It  is  chiefly  imported  from  South 
America,  but  is  also  found  in  the  Ural  Moun- 
tains of  Russia,  in  Ceylon,  and  a  few  other 
places.  Platinum,  when  alloyed  with  silver, 
is  soluble  in  nitric  acid ;  the  pure  metal  is  dis- 
solved by  aqua  regia,  and  is  more  or  less  at- 
tacked by  caustic  alkali,  nitre,  phosphorus, 
&c.,  with  heat.  Platinum  is  precipitated  from 
its  solutions  by  deoxidizing  substances  under 
the  form  of  a  black  powder,  which  has  the 
power  of  absorbing  oxygen,  and  again  impart- 
ing it  to  combustible  substances,  and  thus 
causing  their  oxidation.  In  this  way  alcohol 
and  pyroxilic  spirit  may  be  converted  into 
acetic  and  formic  acids,  &c.  (See  No.  1741, 
also  A cetic  Acid. )  ( Cooley. ) 

3334.  To  Purify  Platinum.     The  na- 
tive alloy  (crude  platinum)  is  acted  upon,  as 
far  as  possible,  with  nitro-muriatic  acid,  con- 
taining an  excess  of  muriatic  acid,  and  slight- 
ly diluted  with  water.    The  solution  is  preci- 
pitated   by    the    addition  of  sal-ammoniac, 
which  throws  down  nearly  the  whole  of  the 
platinum  in  the  state  of  an  ammonio-chloride, 
which  is  washed  with  a  little  cold  water, 
dried,  and  heated  to  redness ;  the  product  is 
spongy  metallic  platinum.     This  is  made  into 
a  thin  uniform  paste  with  water,  pressed  in  a 
brass  mould,  to  squeeze  out  the  water  and 
render  the  mass  sufficiently  solid  to  bear  hand- 
ling.    It  is  then  dried,  carefully  heated  to 
whiteness,   and  hammered  or  pressed  in  the 
heated  state ;  after  this  treatment  it  may  be 
rolled  into  plates  or  worked  into  any  desired 
shape.     (Cooley). 

3335.  Platinated  Asbestos.     Dip  as- 
bestos in  a  solution  of  chloride  of  platinum, 
and  heat  it  to  redness.    It  causes  the  inflam- 
mation of  hydrogen  in  the  same  manner  as 
sponge  platinum. 

3336.  Spongy  Platinum.  Dissolve 
separately  crude  bichloride  of  platinum,  and 
hydrochlorate  of  ammonia  in  proof  spirit; 
add  the  one  solution  to  the  other  as  long  as  a 


precipitate  falls;  this  is  collected,  and,  while 
still  moist,  formed  into  little  balls  or  pieces, 
which  are  then  dried,  and  gradually  heated  to 
redness. 

3337.  Spongy  Platinum.  Dissolve 
platinum,  by  the  aid  of  heat,  in  a  mixture  of 
three  parts  nitric  and  5  parts  muriatic  acid, 
avoiding  great  excess  of  acid.  To  this  solu- 
tion add  a  strong  solution  of  muriate  of  am- 
monia; collect  the  resulting  precipitate  on  a 
filter,  and,  when  nearly  dry,  form  it  into  a 
mass  of  the  shape  desired  for  the  sponge. 
Heat  this  to  whiteness  on  charcoal,  with  a 
blow-pipe  or  otherwise,  and  the  platinum  re- 
mains in  the  spongy  state.  Its  characteristic 
properties  may  be  restored,  when  lost,  by 
simply  heating  it  to  redness. 

3338.  Platinum-Black.  Platina  Mohr. 
This  is  platinum  in  a  finely  divided  state,  and 
is  obtained  thus : — Add  to  a  solution  of  bi- 
chloride of  platinum,  an  excess  of  carbonate 
of  soda,  and  a  quantity  of  sugar.  Boil  until 
the  precipitate  which  forms  becomes,  after  a 
little  while,  perfectly  black,  and  the  superna- 
tant liquid  colorless ;  filter  the  powder,  wash, 
and  dry  it  by  a  gentle  heat.  Another  method 
is  by  melting  platina  ore  with  twice  its  weight 
of  zinc,  powdering,  digesting  first  in  dilute  sul- 
phuric acid,  and  next  in  dilute  nitric  acid,  to 
remove  the  zinc,  assisting  the  action  of  the 
menstruum  by  heat;  it  is  then  digested  in 
potash  lye,  and  lastly  in  pure  water,  after 
which  it  is  carefully  dried.  Platinum-black 
possesses  the  property  of  condensing  gases, 
more  especially  oxygen,  into  its  pores,  and 
afterwards  yielding  it  to  various  oxidizable 
substances.  If  some  of  it  be  mixed  with  al- 
cohol into  a  paste,  and  spread  on  a  watch 
glass,  pure  acetic  acid  is  given  off,  and  affords 
a  ready  means  of  diffusing  the  odor  of  vinegar 
in  an  apartment.  (See  No.  1741.) 


This  is  a  bluish-white, 
lustrous,  semi-crystalline,  extremely 
brittle  metal,  of  about  6.7  specific  gravity; 
imparts  brittleness  to  alloys ;  inflammable  at 
high  temperature ;  melts  just  under  redness, 
810°  Fahr.,  fumes,  boils,  and  volatilizes  at  a 
white  heat,  and  when  suddenly  exposed  to 
the  air,  inflames  and  is  converted  into  teroxide 
of  antimony,  which  is  deposited  in  beautiful 
crystals.  Antimony  dissolves  in  hot  hy- 
drochloric acid,  forming  terchloride  of  anti- 
mony ;  nitric  acid  converts  it  into  antimonio 
acid.  This  metal  is  obtained  principally  from 
France  and  Germany.  Gold,  when  exposed 
to  the  vapors  of  antimony,  loses  its  ductility 
and  malleability,  and  becomes  as  brittle  as 
antimony  itself. 

3340.  Tests  for  Antimony.  An  acid 
solution  of  antimony  gives,  in  combination 
with  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  an  orange-red 
precipitate,  sparingly  soluble  in  ammonia, 
but  readily  soluble  in  pure  potassa  and  alka- 
line sulphurets.  Hydrosulphuret  of  ammonia 
throws  down  from  the  acid  solution  an 
orange-red  precipitate,  readily  soluble  in  ex- 
cess of  the  precipitant,  if  the  latter  contain 
sulphur  in  excess ;  and  the  liquor  containing 
the  re-dissolved  precipitate  gives  a  yellow  or 
orange-yellow  precipitate  on  the  addition  of 


308 


BISMUTH— ALLOTS. 


an  acid.  Ammonia,  and  potassa,  and  their 
carbonates  (excepting  in  solutions  of  tartar 
emetic)  give  a  bulky  white  precipitate ;  that 
from  ammonia  being  insoluble  in  excess  of  the 
precipitant;  that  from  potassa  readily  so; 
while  those  from  the  carbonate  are  only  solu- 
ble on  the  application  of  heat. 

3341.  To   Estimate  the  Purity   of 
Antimony.      Treat     pulverized    antimony 
•with  nitric  acid ;  this  oxidizes  the  antimony, 
and  leaves  it  in  an  insoluble  state,  whilst  it 
dissolves  the  other  metals.     Collect  the  oxide 
on  a  filter,  wash,   dry,  ignite,  and  weigh  it. 
This  weight,  multiplied  by  .843,  gives  the 
weight  of  pure  metal  in  the  sample  examined. 
If  this  has  been  previously  weighed,  the  per- 
centage of  pure  metal  is  easily  arrived  at. 

3342.  To  Obtain  Metallic  Antimony. 
Mix  together  16  parts  sulphuret  of  antimony 
and  6  parts  cream  of  tartar,  both  in  powder ; 
put  the  mixture,  in  small  quantities  at  a  time, 
into  a  vessel  heated  to  redness;  when  reaction 
ceases,  fuse  the  mass,  and,  after  15  minutes, 
pour  it  out  and  separate  the  metal  from  the 
slag.    The  product  is  nearly  pure. 

Or :  Equal  parts  of  protoxide  of  antimony 
and  bitartrate  of  potassa  (cream  of  tartar) ; 
mix  and  fuse  as  above,  and  pour  the  metal 
into  small  conical  moulds. 

Or :  8  parts  sulphuret  of  antimony,  6  parts 
cream  of  tartar,  and  3  parts  nitre.  Treated  as 
above. 

Or :  2  parts  sulphuret  of  antimony  and  1 
part  iron  filings ;  calcine  at  a  strong  heat  in  a 
covered  crucible. 

3343.  To  Obtain  Commercial  Anti- 
mony.    Fuse  together  100  parts  sulphuret  of 
antimony,  40  parts  metallic  iron,  and  10  parts 
dry  crude  sulphate  of  soda.    This  produces 
from  60  to  65  parts  of  antimony,  besides  the 
scorise  or  ash,  which  is  also  valuable. 


acid ;  add  caustic  potash  in  excess,  and  the 
xides  of  bismuth  and  lead  will  be  precipitated, 
rat  the  lead  oxide  will  be  at  once  re-dissolved 
>y  the  alkali.  The  oxide  of  bismuth  can  then 
>e  separated  by  filtration,  washed,  and  igni- 
ed.  (Makins.)  » 


B ism. Tltll.  This  metal  is  principal- 
ly prepared  in  Germany,  and,  as  im- 
ported, generally  contains  both  arsenic  and 
copper.  It  is  a  crystalline  metal,  very  brittle, 
of  a  reddish  white  color ;  melts  at  about  500° 
Pahr.,  volatilizes  at  a  strong  heat,  and  the 
fumes  form  crystalline  scales  (flowers  of  bis- 
muth). It  burns  when  strongly  heated  in 
the  air,  and  has  a  specific  gravity  of  about 
9.8.  The  addition  of  bismuth  to  other  metals 
lowers  their  melting  point  in  an  extraordi- 
nary manner,  making  it  a  useful  ingredient  in 
the  composition  of  type-metal  and  solders 
(-See  No.  3499,  etc.) 

3345.  To  Purify  Bismuth.     Dissolve 
crude  bismuth  in  nitric  acid,  and  concentrate 
the  solution  by  evaporation.     Then  pour  the 
clear  solution  into  a  large  bulk  of  distillec 

r  water,  and  a  white  powder  (sub-nitrate  of  bis 
muth)  will  be  precipitated.  Collect  the  precip 
itate  and  digest  it  for  a  time  in  a  little  caustic 
potash,  to  dissolve  away  any  arsenious  acids 
that  may  be  present ;  next  wash  and  dry  the 
sub-nitrate ;  heat  it  with  about  -^  its  weigh 
of  charcoal  in  an  earthen  crucible,  and  thi 
pure  bismuth  will  be  found  at  the  bottom  o 
the  crucible.  (Makins.) 

3346.  To    Separate   Bismuth   from 
Lead.     Dissolve  the  mixed  metal  in  nitric 


Combinations  of  the  metals 
with  each  other  obtained  by  fusion. 
"When  mercury  is  one  of  the  component  metals, 
the  compound  is  termed  an  amalgam.     (See 
No.   3532.)    Most  of  the  metals  unite  with 
each  other  by  fusion  or  amalgamation,  and 
acquire  new  properties.    Thus :  copper  alloy- 
ed with  zinc,  becomes  brass,  and  possesses  a 
different  density,  hardness,  and  color  to  either 
of  its  constituents.    No  general  rules  for  the 
manufacture  of  alloys  applicable  to  each  can 
>e  given;  but  it  may  be  remarked  that,  in 
uniting  metals  differing  greatly  in  their  melt- 
ng  points,  the  least  fusible  should  be  melted 
first,  and  the  others  added,  one  at  a  time,  in 
iheir  order   of  fusibility,   the    most    fusible 
metal  being  the  last  to  be  added ;  also  that, 
Before  the  addition  of  each  succeeding  metal, 
the  temperature  of  the  already,  fused  mass 
should  be  reduced  to  the  lowest  point  at  which 
t  will  remain  fluid,  or  as  near  as  possible  to 
;he  fusing  point  of  the  metal  to  be  next  intro- 
duced, so  that  it  may  not  evaporate  or  be 
oxidized,  and  thus  cause  the  compound  to  bo 
mperfect.    This  is  a  general  rule,  to  be  ap- 
plied in  most  cases;  but  there  are  exceptions. 
For    instance:    gold  will  easily   dissolve  in 
melted  tin;   and  platinum  in  many  mefals. 
[f  platinum  were  first  melted,  and  zinc,  for 
instance,  added,  the  temperature  necessary  to 
obtain  the  fusion  of  platinum  would  be  suffi- 
cient to  volatilize  the  zinc.     The  mixture  is 
usually  effected  under  a  flux,  or  some  material 
that  will  prevent  evaporation  and  exposure  to 
the  atmosphere.     Thus :  in  melting  lead  and 
tin  together,  in  forming  solder,  resin  or  tallow 
is  thrown  upon  the  surface ;  in  tinning  cop- 
per, the  surface  is  rubbed  with  sal-ammoniac ; 
and  in   combining    some    metals,   powdered 
charcoal  is  used  for  the  same  purpose.     (See 
No.  3470.)    As  we  have  already  said,  most  of 
the  alloys  are  prepared  by  simply  fusing  the 
metals  together;  but  if  there  be  a  considerable 
difference  in  their  specific  gravities,  the  heav- 
ier very  generally  subsides,  and  the  lower 
part  of  the  mass  thus  differs  in  composition 
from  the  upper.     This  may  be  in  a  great 
measure  prevented  by  agitating  the  alloy  till 
it  solidifies,  but  this  is  not  always  convenient. 
Thus,  in  stereotype  plates,  which  are  cast  ver- 
tically, the  upper  side  usually  contains  more 
antimony  than  the  other.     Asa  general  rule, 
the    substances  (elements)  of  nature  unite 
together  in  fixed  and  definite  atomic  propor- 
tions, thereby  forming  new  compounds.    Met- 
als unite  with  non-metallic  bodies,  and  obey 
the  same    general   law;    but  metals,   when 
united  with  metals,  appear  to  form  an  excep- 
tion, though  much  doubt  exists  on  the  subject. 
They  seem  to  mix  in  any  proportion,  and  are 
thereby  modified,  possessing  thereafter  prop- 
erties which  fit  them  for  many  purposes  in 
commerce  and  art.     These  compounds,  being 
considered  at  present  non-chemical  bodies,  are 


ALLOYS. 


309 


classed  together  under  the  French  term  of  al- 
loys. Alloys  are  generally  more  fusible  than 
the  least  fusible  of  the  component  metals ; 
but  are  often  harder  and  more  brittle  than  the 


hardest  and  most  brittle  of  the  component 
metals.  With  some  exceptions,  the  ductility 
and  tenacity  of  an  alloy  is  less  than  that  of  its 
inetals. 


3348.  Table  of  the  Principal  Alloys  of  Copper.  This  table  of  the  alloys  of  copper 
is  from  Dr.  Ure.  The  bronze  for  statues  is  the  composition  used  by  Keller  Brothers,  the 
celebrated  brass  founders. 


Copper. 

Zinc. 

Tin. 

Nickel. 

Antimony 

Lead. 

87.000 

13.000 

97.000 

3.000 

Bronze  for  statues       ................ 

91.400 

5.530 

1.700 

1.370 

for  medals              ............ 

90.000 

10.000 

for  cannon           .  ........... 

90.000 

10.000 

78.000 

22.000 

for  gilding          ........  ...... 

82.257 

17.481 

0.238 

0024 

80.000 

16.500 

2.500 

1000 

Speculum  metal  .................... 

66.000 

34.000 

Brass  for  sheet        ...  .............. 

84.700 

15.300 

Gilding  metal  ....  

73.730 

26.270 

Prince's  metal     ..................... 

75.000 

25.000 

n           <t 

50.000 

50.000 

Dutch  metal  .  

84.700 

15.300 

English  wire               ..  ....  

70.290 

29.260 

0.170 

0280 

Mosaic  gold  ...  ... 

66.000 

34.000 

Gun  metal  for  bearings,  stocks,  &c  
Muntz's  metal      ......  ............. 

90.300 
60.000 

9.670 
40.000 

0.030 

Good  yellow  brass  

66.000 

34.000 

Babbitt's  metal  for  bushing  

8.300 

83.400 

8.300 

Bell  metal  for  large  bells        .   -  

.80.000 

20.000 

Britannia  metal  

1.000 

2.000 

81.000 

16.000 

Nickel  silver,  English  

60.000 

17.800 

22.200 

"          "      Parisian  ......     ....  

50.000 

13.600 

19.300 

German  silver  ..  ....  

50.000 

25.000 

25.000 

Pinchbeck  

80.200 

20.000 

3349.  Properties   of   Metals.      The 
metals  form  part  of  the  elements  of  nature, 
are  undecompounded  bodies,  and  distinguish- 
ed from  the  other  elements  by  their  lustre, 
weight,  <fcc. 

3350.  Table  Showing,  in  their  Order, 
the  Comparative  Properties  of  Metals. 


Order  of   Malle- 

Order of        ( 

Drder  of  Brittle- 

ability. 

Ductility. 

ness. 

Gold, 

Gold, 

Antimony, 

Silver, 

Silver, 

Arsenic, 

Copper, 

Platinum, 

Bismuth, 

Tin, 

Iron, 

Chromium, 

Cadmium, 

Copper, 

Cobalt, 

Platinum, 

Zinc, 

Manganese, 

Lead, 

Tin, 

Molybdenum, 

Zinc, 

Lead, 

Tellurium, 

Iron, 

Nickel, 

Titanium. 

Nickel, 

Palladium, 

Tungsten, 

Palladium, 

Cadmium, 

Uranium, 

Potassium, 

Khodium, 

Order  of  Heat  Order  of  Elec- 

Order  of  Tenacity. 

Conducting 

trical  Conduct- 

Power. 

ing  Power. 

Iron,        1,000 

Gold, 

Copper, 

Copper,      550 
Platinum,  494 

Platinum, 
Silver, 

Gold, 
Silver, 

Silver,        349 

Copper, 

Zinc, 

Gold,          273 

Iron, 

Platinum. 

Zinc,          199 

Zinc, 

Iron, 

Tin,              63 

Tin, 

Tin, 

Lead,           50 

Lead, 

Lead, 

Mercury, 

Potassium. 

3351.  Lustre  is  so  characteristic  as  to 
have  formed  the  common  expression  "me- 
tallic lustre." 

3352.  Weight  is  also  a  rough  distinguish- 
ing characteristic. 

3353.  Fusibility  is  a  property  common 
to  all  metals.    Before  some  metals  are  ren- 
dered fluid  by  heat,  they  become  pasty ;  such 
is  an  indication  of  malleability.    The  follow- 
ing table  gives  the  degrees  (Fahr.)  of  heat  at 
which  metals  fuse : 

Tin 442° 

Bismuth 497° 

Lead 612° 

Zinc 773° 

Antimony 810° 

Silver. 1,873° 

Copper 1,990° 

Gold 2,010° 

Iron  ( Cast) 2,78G° 

Nickel 2,800°  (about) 

Manganese 3,000°  (about) 

3354.  Malleability,  or  the  property  of 
being  beaten  out  into  thin  plates  without 
cracking  or  breaking,  is  common  to  several 
metals. 

3355.  Ductility  is  also  a  property  found 
in  some  metals.    It  is  allied  to  malleability,  • 
and  often  confounded  with  it.    It  is  the  prop- 
erty of  being  drawn  into  wire. 

3356.  Tenacity,  or  the  resistance    of 
being  pulled  asunder  by  the  force  of  tension, 
varies  exceedingly  in  metals. 

3357.  Brittleness,  resulting  from  hard- 
ness, is  a  property  also  met  with ;  and  where 
the  brittleness  is  not  extreme,  hardness  is  in 
favor  where  subjected  to  compression. 


31O 


ALLOTS. 


3358.  How  to  Make  Brass.     This  use- 
ful alloy  of  copper  and  zinc  is  now  generally 
made  by  plunging  the  copper  in  slips  into  the 
zinc  melted  in  the  usual  manner.    The  former 
metal  rapidly  combines  with  the  fluid  mass, 
and  the  addition  is  continued  until  an  alloy  is 
formed  somewhat  difficult  of  fusion,  when  the 
remainder  of  the  copper  is  at  once  added. 
The  brass  thus  formed  is  broken  into  pieces 
and  remelted  under  charcoal,  and  a  proper  ad- 
dition of  either  zinc  or  copper  made  to  bring 
it  up  to  the  color  and  quality  desired.     Small 
quantities  of  brass  may  be  made  by  melting 
the  copper  and  zinc  separately,  pouring  them 
together  and  stirring  vigorously.     (See  Cop- 
per Flux,  No.  3470.)    It  is  then  poured  into 
moulds  of  granite.    Before  being  submitted 
to   the  rolling   press  for  reduction  to  thin 
plates,  it  has  to  undergo  the  operation  of 
annealing.    lu  the  receipts  which  follow,  it 
•will  be  seen  that  the  larger  the  proportion  of 
copper,  the  darker  the  color,  the  greater  the 
density,  and,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  tough- 
ness, of  the  alloy.     Zinc  lessens  the  weight 
and  color.    Tin  gives  it  hardness  and  grain, 
and  lead  toughens  it  and  renders  it  fitter  for 
working.    An  application  of  these  principles 
will  serve  as  a    guide  for  the  metals  and 
proportions  to  be  used  to  produce  a  brass  of 
any  description  required. 

3359.  Fine    Light    Yellow   Brass. 
Melt  together  2  parts  copper  and  1  part  zinc. 

3360.  Bright  Yellow  Malleable 
Brass.  Melt  together  7  parts  copper  and 
3  parts  zinc. 

3361.  Deep  Yellow  Malleable  Brass. 
Melt  together  £  parts  copper  and  1  part  zinc. 

3362.  Brass  Malleable  whilst  Hot. 
Melt  together  3  parts  copper  and  2  parts  zinc. 

3363.  Bed  Brass.  Melt  together  5 
parts  copper  and  1  part  zinc.  As  much  as  10 
parts  of  copper  to  1  part  zinc  may  be  used, 
the  color  being  a  deeper  red  for  every  addi- 
tional part  of  copper  employed. 

3364.  Brass  for  Buttons.      Copper,  8 
parts,  and  zinc  5  parts.     This  is  the  Birming- 
ham platin. 

3365.  Pale  Brass  for   Buttons,   &c. 
Melt  together  16  parts  fine  light  yellow  brass 
(see  No.  3359),  2  parts  zinc,  and  1  part  tin. 

3366.  Common  Pale  Brass.    Melt  to- 
gether 25  parts  copper,  20  parts  zinc,  3  parts 
lead,  and  2  parts  tin. 

3367.  Fine  Pale  Brass  for  Castings. 
Melt  together  15  parts  copper,  9  parts  zinc 
and  4  parts  tin.     This  is  rather  brittle. 

3368.  Dark  Brass  for  Castings.    Melt 
together  90  parts  copper,  7  parts  zinc,  2  parts 
tin,  and  1  part  lead.    The  color  will  be  stil 
deeper  by  using  2  parts  less  of  zinc,  and  1  part 
more  each  of  copper  and  tin. 

3369.  Pale  Brass  for  Gilding.    Melt 
together  copper,  64  parts;  32  parts  zinc,  3 
parts  lead,  and  1  part  tin. 

3370.  Bed  Brass  for   Gilding.    Melt 
together  82  parts  copper,  18  parts  zinc,  3  parti 
tin,  and  1  part  lead. 

3371.  Brass  for  Solder.    Melt  together 
12  parts  fine  yellow  brass  (see  No.  3359),  6 
parts  zinc,  and  1  part  tin.    Used  for  ordinary 
brazing. 

3372.  Pale  Brass  for  Turning.    Mel 
together  98  parts  fine  brass  (see  No.  3359) 
and  2  parts  lead. 


3373.  Bed  Brass  for  Turning.     Melt 
;ogether  65  parts  copper,  33  parts  zinc,  2  parts 
ead. 

3374.  Bed  Brass  for  Wire.     Melt  to- 
gether 72  parts  copper  and    28  parts  zinc, 
n'operly  annealed. 

3375.  Pale  Brass  for  Wire.    Melt  to- 
jether  64  parts  copper,  34  parts  zinc,  and  2 
mrts  lead. 

3376.  To  Make  Brass  which   Ex- 
pands by  Heat  Equally  with  Iron.    It  is 
lifficult  to  make  a  permanent  joint  between  f 
jrass  and  iron,  on  account  of  their  unequal ' 
3xpansion  by  heat.     In  a  recent  issue  of  the 
ournal  of  "  Applied  Chemistry,"  a  new  alloy 
.s  given,  for  which  the  inventor  claims  an  ex- 
pansion by  heat  so  nearly  similar  to  that  of 
.ron,  as  to  allow  of  a  union  between  them, 
which,  for  all  practical  purposes,  is  perma- 
nent.     This  consists  of  a  mixture  of  79  parts 

opper,  15  parts  zinc,  and  6  parts  tin. 

3377.  To   Harden    Brass.      Brass    is 
tempered  or  hardened  by  rolling  or  hammer- 
ing ;  consequently,  if  any  object  is  to  be  made 
of  tempered  brass,   the  hardening  must  be 
done    before  working   it   into    the    required 

ihapc. 

3378.  To  Soften  Brass.    Heat  it  to  a 
cherry  red,  and  plunge  it  into  water. 

3379.  To  Cover  Brass  with  Beautiful 
Lustre  Colors.     Dissolve  1  ounce  cream  of 
tartar  in  1  quart  boiling  water ;  then  add  k 
ounce  protochloride  of  tin  dissolved  in  4  oun- 
ces cold  water.     Next  heat  the  whole  to  boil- 
ing,  and  decant  the  clear  solution  from  a 
trifling  precipitate,  and  pour,  under  continual 
stirring,  into  a  solution  of  3  ounces  hyposul- 
phate  of  soda  in  -J  pint  water,  then  heat  again 
to  boiling,  and  filter  from  the  separated  sul- 
phur.   This  solution  produces  on  brass  the 
various  lustre  colors,  depending  on  the  length 
of  time  during  which  the  articles  are  allowed 
to  remain  in  it.      The  colors  at  first  will  be 
light  to  dark  gold  yellow,  passing  through  all 
the  tints  of  red  to  an  iridescent  brown.    A 
similar  series  of  colors  is  produced  by  sulphide 
of  copper  and  lead,  which,  however,  are  not 
remarkable  for  their  stability;  whether  this 
defect  will  be  obviated  by  the  use  of  the  tin 
solution,  experience  and  time  alone  can  show. 

3380.  To  Put  a  Black  Finish  on  Brass 
Instruments.     Make  a  strong  solution  of 
nitrate  of  silver  in  one  dish,  and  of  nitrate  of 
copper*in  another.     Mix  the  two  together, 
and  plunge  the  brass  in  it.    Now  heat  the 
brass  evenly  till  the  required  degree  of  dead 
blackness  is  obtained.     This  is  the  method  of 
producing  the  beautiful  dead  black  so  much 
admired  in  optical  instruments,   and  which 
was  so  long  kept  a  secret  by  the  French. 

3381.  To  Frost  Watch  Movements. 
Mix  together  1  ounce  each  muriatic  acid,  ni- 
tric acid,  and  common  salt ;  immerse  the  arti- 
cle, as  far  as  it  is  to  be  frosted,  in  the  mixture 
for  a  short  time;  then  immerse  it,  so  as  just 
to  cover  it,  in  sour  beer,  and  scour  it  under 
the  beer  with  a  brush  made  of  fine  brass  wire 
(a  scratch  brush);  wash  it  in  water,  and  after- 
wards in  alcohol.     The  surface  is  then  ready 
to  gild  or  silver-plate  if  desired. 

3382.  To  Color  Brass.     Although  no 
alloy  presents  a  more  agreeable   appearance 
to  the  eye  than  brass  when  it  is  in  a  high 
state  of  polish,  yet  the  facility  with  which  it 


ALLOTS. 


311 


tarnishes  has  rendered  it  necessary  to  color  or 
bronze  it,  especially  in  those  instances  where 
its  use  exposes  it  to  the  liability  of  being  fre- 
quently handled.  The  following  receipts  are 
from  a  reliable  German  source,  and  are  said 
to  possess  a  high  degree  of  permanence.  (See 
Nos.  3771,  rf-c.) 

3383.  To  Give  Brass  an  Orange  Tint. 
An  orange  tint,  inclining  to  gold,  is  produced 
by  first  polishing  the  brass  and  then  plunging 
it  for  a  few  seconds  into  a  neutral  solution  ol 
crystallized  acetate  of  copper,  care  being  taken 
that  the   solution  is  completely  destitute   of 
all  free  acid,  and  possesses  a  warm  tempera- 
ture. 

3384.  To   Color  Brass  Grey-Green. 
Dipped  into  a  bath  of  copper,  the  brass  being 
first  polished,  as  in  last  receipt,  the  resulting 
tint  is  a  grayish  green. 

3385.  To  Color  Brass  Violet.    A  beau- 
tiful violet  is  obtained  by  immersing  the  pol- 
ished brass  for  a  single  instant  in  a  solution  of 
chloride  of  antimony,  and  rubbing  it  with  a 
stick  covered  with  cotton.    The  temperature 
of  the  brass  at  the  time  the  operation  is  in 
progress  has  a  great  influence  upon  the  beauty 
and  delicacy  of  the  tint;  in  this  instance  it 
should  be  heated  to  a  degree  so  as  just  to  be 
tolerable  to  the  touch. 

3386.  To  Give  Brass  a  Moire  Ap- 
pearance.    A  moire  appearance,  vastly  su- 
perior to  that  usually  seen,  is  produced  by 
boiling  the  object  in  a  solutibn  of  sulphate  of 
copper.      According  to  the  proportions  ob- 
served between  the  zinc  and  the  copper  in  the 
composition  of  the  brass,  so  will  the  tints  ob- 
tained vary.     In  many  instances  it  requires 
the  employment  of  a  slight  degree  of  friction, 
with  a  resinous  or  waxy  varnish,  to  bring  out 
the  wavy  appearance  characteristic  of  moire", 
which   is   also   singularly  enhanced  by  drop- 
ping a  few  iron  nails  into  the  bath. 

3387.  Black  Lacquer  for  Brass. 
There  are  two  methods  of  procuring  a  black 
lacquer  upon  the  surface  of  brass.  The  one 
usually  employed  for  optical  and  scientific 
instruments  consists  in  first  polishing  the 
object  with  Tripoli,  then  washing  it  with  a 
mixture  composed  of  1  part  nitrate  of  tin  and 
2  parts  chloride  of  gold,  and,  after  allowing 
this  wash  to  remain  for  nearly  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  wiping  it  off  with  a  linen  cloth. 
An  excess  of  acid  increases  the  intensity  of 
the  tint. 

By  another  method  copper  turnings  are  dis- 
solved in  nitric  acid  until  the  acid  is  saturated : 
the.  objects  are  cleaned,  immersed  in  the  solu- 
tion, and  subsequently  heated  moderately 
over  a  charcoal  fire.  This  process  must  be 
repeated  in  order  to  produce  a  black  color,  as 
the  first  trial  only  gires  a  deep  green,  and 
the  finishing  touch  is  to  polish  with  olive  oil. 

3388.  To  Give  Brass  an  English 
Look.  Much  pains  are  taken  to  give  brass 
objects  an  English  look.  For  this  purpose 
they  are  first  heated  to  redness,  and  then  dip- 
ped in  a  weak  solution  of  sulphuric  acid. 
Afterwards  they  are  immersed  in  dilute  nitric 
acid,  thoroughly  washed  in  water,  and  dried 
in  sawdust.  To  effect  a  uniformity  in  the 
color  they  are  plunged  into  a  bath  consisting 
of  2  parts  nitric  acid  and  1  part  rain  water, 
where  they  are  suffered  to  remain  for  several 
minutes.  Should  the  color  not  be  free  from 


spots  and  patches,  the  operation    must  be 
repeated  until  the  desired  effect  is  produced. 

3389.  To  Clean  Brass.     Brass  and  cop- 
per are  best  cleaned  with  sweet  oil  and  Tripoli, 
powdered   bath-brick,   rotten   stone,   or    red 
brick-dust,  rubbed  on  with  flannel  and  polish- 
ed with  leather.    Vitriol  and  muriatic  acid 
make  brass  and  copper  very  bright,  but  they 
very  soon  tarnish,  and  consequently  require 
more  frequent  cleaning.   A  strong  lye  of  roche- 
aluni  and  water  will  also  improve  brass.    A 
solution  of  oxalio  acid  rubbed  over  tarnished 
brass  with  a  cotton  rag,  soon  removes  the 
tarnish,  rendering  the  metal  bright.     The  acid 
must  be  washed  off  with  water,  and  the  brass 
rubbed  with  whitening  in  powder  and  soft 
leather.    When  acids  are  employed  for  re- 
moving the  oxide  from  brass,  the  metal  must 
be  thoroughly  washed  afterwards,  or  it  will 
tarnish  in  a  few  minutes  after  being  exposed 
to  the  air. 

3390.  To    Give   a  Golden   Color   to 
Brass.      A  mixture  of  muriatic    acid  and 
alum  dissolved  in  water  imparts  a  golden 
color  to  brass  articles  that  are  steeped  in  it  for 
a  few  seconds. 

3391.  Paste  to  Clean   Brass.     Soft 
soap,  2  ounces;  rotten-stone,  4  ounces;  beat 
them  to  a  paste.     Or:   Rotten  stone  made 
into  a  paste  with  sweet  oil.  •  Or:  Eotten-stone, 
4  ounces;  oxalic  acid,  1  ounce;  sweet  oil,  Ik 
ounces ;  turpentine  enough  to  make  a  paste.. 
The  first  and  last  are  best  applied  with  a  little 
water.    The  second,  with  a  little  spirits  of 
turpentine,  or  sweet  oil.    Both  require  fric- 
tion with  soft  leather. 

3392.  To  Clean  Brass  Inlaid  Work. 
Mix  Tripoli  and  linseed  oil,  and  dip  into  it  a 
rubber  made  of  a  piece  of  an  old  hat,  with 
which  polish  the  work  and  rub  off  with  clean 
soft  leather.     If  the  wood  be  ebony  or  rose- 
wood, polish  it  with  a  little  finely  powdered 
elder  ashes ;  or  make  a  paste  of  rotten-stone, 
a  little  starch,   sweet  oil,   and  oxalic  acid, 
mixed  with  water.  The  ornaments  of  a  French 
clock  are,  however,  best  cleaned  with  bread- 
crumb, carefully  rubbed,  so  as  not  to  spoil 
the  wood-work.     Ormolu  candlesticks,  lamps, 
and  branches,  may  be  cleaned  with  soap  and 
water.    They  will  bear  more  cleaning  than 
lacquered  articles,  which  are  spoiled  by  fre- 
quent rubbing,  or  by  acids  or  strong  alkalies. 

3393.  Solutions    to    Clean    Brass. 
Finely    powdered    sal-ammoniac;,   water    to 
moisten.     Or :  Roche  alum,  1  part ;  water,  16 
parts.    Mix.     The  articles  to  be  cleaned  must 
be  made  warm,  then  rubbed  with  either  of  the 
above  mixtures  and  finished  with  fine  Tripoli. 
This  process  will  give  them  the  brilliancy  of 
gold. 

3394.  Solution   for    Cleaning    Brass 
Chains.      Mix  together  1  ounce  sulphuric 
acid,  J  ounce  nitric  acid,  \  drachm  saltpetre, 
and  1  ounce  rain  water,  and  allow  the  solu- 
tion to  repose  a  few  hours.    Pass  the  article 
to  be  cleaned  rapidly  through  the  solution, 
and  immediately  wash  it  thoroughly  with  rain 
water.     Dry  in  sawdust.     This  process  will 
make  old  and  discolored  chains  look  as  good 
as  new. 

3395.  To  Clean  Very  Dirty  Brass. 
Rub  some  bichromate  of  potassa  fine,  pour 
over  it  about  twice  the  bulk  of  sulphuric  acid, 
and  mix  this  with  an  equal  quantity  of  water. 


312 


ALLOTS. 


"Wash  immediately  in  plenty  of  water,  wipe 
it,  and  rub  perfectly  dry,  and  polish  with  pow- 


By    this 
be    made 


method    the 


immediately 


dered  rotten-stone, 
dirtiest  brass  may 
bright, 

3396.  To  Give  Brass  Ornaments  a 
Fine  Color.  Brass  ornaments,  when  not 
gilt  or  lacquered,  may  be  cleansed,  and  a  fine 
color  given  to  them,  by  two  simple  processes. 
The  first  is  to  beat  sal-ammoniac  into  a  fine 
powder,  then  to  moisten  it  with  soft  water, 
rubbing  it  on  the  ornaments,  which  must  be 
afterwards  rubbed  dry  with  bran  and  whiting. 
The  second  is  to  wash  the  brass  work  with 
roche  alum  boiled  to  a  strong  lye,  in  the 
proportion  of  1  ounce  to  1  pint;  when  dry, 
it  must  be  rubbed  with  fine  Tripoli.  Either  of 
these  processes  will  give  to  brass  the  brilliancy 


of  gold. 
3397. 


Counterfeit  Gold.    Fuse  together 


8  parts  platinum,  5  parts  pure  copper,  2  parts 
pure  zinc,  4  parts  tin,  and  3  parts  pure  lead, 
using  saltpetre,  sal-ammoniac,  and  powdered 
charcoal  as  fluxes.  This  compound  metal 
strongly  resembles  gold  in  appearance,  and 
resists  many  of  the  tests  used  for  gold. 

3398.    Hard  Gold.     A  mixture  of  7  parts 
gold  and  1  part  copper  appears  to  afford  the 


maximum  of  hardness. 
3399.    Coin  Gold. 


Melt  together  with 


saltpetre  and  sal-ammoniac,  22  grains  pure 
"  pure  copper.     The  later 
oyed  with  2  grains  of 
a  mixture  of  1  part  silver  and  2  parts  copper. 


gold  with  2  grains  of  pure  copp 
American  coin  is  alloyed  wit 


nearly  equal  silver  in  whiteness  and  suscepti- 
bility of  receiving  a  high  polish,  while  they 
surpass  it  in  hardness  and  durability.  The 
mixture  of  the  metals  is  effected  in  the  same 
way  as  is  given  for  making  alloy*.  (See  No. 
3347.)  The  receipts  here  given  are  from  the 
highest  authorities,  or  are  the  results  of 
actual  analysis  of  the  finest  commercial  sam- 


ples. 
341O. 


German  Silver  for  Boiling. 


Nickel  and  zinc,  each  1  part  ;  copper,  2  parts. 
Yery  fine.  Or:  nickel,  25  parts;  zinc,  20 
parts  ;  copper,  60  parts.  Used  for  rolling. 

3411.  German  Silver  for  Castings. 
Nickel  and  zinc,  each  20  parts;    copper,  60 
parts;  lead,  3  parts.     For  castings.     Or,  to 
either  of  the  above  add  2  to  3  per  cent,  of  white 
sheet  iron. 

3412.  Genuine  German  Silver.     Cop- 


parts; zinc,  25i 
This   resembles    the 


per,  40^-  parts;   nickel, 

parts;    iron,   2k  parts. 

genuine  German  silver  made  from   the  ore 

of  Hildburghausen,  as  well  as  Pakfong,   as 

analyzed  by  Dr.  Fyfe,  and  is  equal  to  the  best 

Chinese  sample. 

3413.  Pelouze's  German  Silver. 
Equal  parts  of  copper  and  nickel.  Said  to  be 
superior  to  any  of  the  alloys  containing  zinc. 
2  parts  of  copper  to  1  part  of  nickel  make  the 
alloy  more  malleable,  though  not  so  white. 

3414.  Chinese  White  Copper.     This 
consists  of  30  parts  copper,  36  parts  nickel, 
and  34  parts  zinc. 

3415.  Pakfong,   or   White    Copper 


The  copper  used  for  alloying  gold  must  be  I  from  China.     This  is  composed  of  41  parts 


pure,  otherwise  the  mixture  will  be  brittle. 

3400.  To  Make  Eighteen  Carat  Gold. 
Pure  gold,  18  parts,  is  alloyed  with  4  parts 
pure  copper  and  2  parts  silver.      Or:    194 
parts  com  gold,  3  parts  copper,  and  Ik  parts 
silver. 

3401.  To  Make  Sixteen  Carat  Gold. 
Sixteen  parts  pure  gold  are  mixed  with  5k 
parts  copper,  and  24  parts  silver.     Or:   17 
parts  corn  gold,  5  parts  copper,  and  2  parts 
silver. 

3402.  To  Make  Twelve  Carat  Gold. 
Coin  gold,  75  parts ;  further  alloyed  with  40 
parts  copper,  and  22  parts  silver,  make  a  com- 
bination of  good  appearance,  which  stands 
acid  tests  well. 

3403.  To  Make  Four  Carat  Gold.    A 
good  useful  metal  for  cheap  rings,  &c.,  which 
will  not  blacken  the  finger,  is  made  by  mix- 
ing 4  parts  gold  with  2  parts  silver,  and  18 


parts  copper. 
3404.     To  Make 


Green  Gold.      Pure 


gold,  19  parts,  and  5  parts  pure  silver,  com- 
bine to  form  an  alloy  of  a  beautiful  green 
shade,  very  effective  for  foliated  designs  in 

Pivots  for  Artificial  Teeth. 
An  alloy  of  platinum  and  silver  is  used  for 
this  purpose. 

3406.      Chaudet's  Springs  for  Arti- 
ficial Teeth.     Equal  parts  of  copper,  silver, 


jewelry. 
3405. 


and  palladium. 
3407.    Hard  Silver. 


An  alloy  of  5  parts 


silver  and  1  part  copper  forms  the  hardest  alloy 


of  these  metals. 
3408.    French  Coin  Silver. 


This  con- 


sists of  9  parts  silver  and  1  part  copper. 

3409.    German  Silver.     This  is  a  well- 
known  alloy,   the  finer    varieties  of  which 


copper,  32  parts  nickel,  2£  parts  iron,  and  ! 
parts  zinc.  The  Chinese  Pakfong  is  said  to 
be  prepared  from  native  ore.  It  is  silvery 
white,  takes  a  high  polish,  very  sonorous, 
malleable  both  cold  and  at  a  dull  red  heat, 
and  may  be  rolled  into  leaves  or  drawn  into 
wire. 

3416.  White  Spoon  Metal.      This  is 
the   alloy   sold  as   German  plate.      Melt  to- 
gether 55   parts  copper,  24  parts  nickel,  16 
parts  zinc,  3  parts  tin,  and  2  parts  iron.     This 
is  a  useful  alloy. 

3417.  Britannia  Metal.     Plate  brass,  4 
ounces ;  tin,   4   ounces ;   when  fused    add    4 
ounces  each  of  bismuth  and  antimony.     This 
composition  is  added  at  discretion  to  melted 
tin. 

3418.  To    Clean    Britannia    Ware. 
Britannia  ware  should  be  first  washed  with  a 
woolen  cloth  and  sweet  oil,  then  washed  in 
water  and  suds,  and  rubbed  with  soft  leather 
and  whiting.       Thus  treated,  it  will  retain  its 
beauty  to  the  last.     Britannia  ware  may  also 
be  cleaned  in  the  same  way  as  copper,  in  No. 
3252. 

3419.  Type  Metal.    Lead,  3  parts ;  anti- 
mony, 1  part ;  melted  together.     Small  types 
are  usually  made  of  a  harder  composition  than 
large  ones.    A  good  stereotype  metal  is  said 
to  be  made  of  lead,  9  parts ;  antimony,  2  parts ; 
bismuth,  1   part.     This   alloy  expands   as  it 
cools,  and  consequently  brings  out  a  fine  im- 
pression. 

3420.  Bismuth  and  Lead.       Lead,  2 
parts  to  bismuth,  1  part,  gives  an  alloy  which 
dilates  powerfully   at  the   time    of   cooling. 
This  property  makes  it  extremely  suitable  to 
all  castings  in  which  the  greatest  sharpness 
and  finish  are  desirable. 


ALLOTS. 


313 


3421.  Tin  and  Zinc.     Tin  and  zinc,  of 
each  1  part,  i.s  almost  as  tenacious  as  brass, 
and  ineics  at  900°  Fahrenheit. 

3422.  Pewter.   Tin,  100  parts ;  antimony, 
8  parts  ;  copper,  4  parts  ;  and  bismuth,  1  part, 
constitute  the    compound    commonly  called 
pewter. 

3423.  Alloys  of  Steel.    Steel  is  success- 
fully alloyed  with  other  metals,  improving  its 
qualities  for  some  purposes.    -^  part  of  silver 
adds  immensely  to  the  hardness  of  steel,  and 
yet  increases  its  tenacity,     -rftr  Part  °f  plati- 
num, though  not  forming  so  hard  an  alloy  as 
the  silver  and  steel,  gives  a  very  great  degree 
of  toughness.      Rhodium,  palladium,  iridium, 
and  osmium  make  steel  very  hard,  but  their 
use,  from  their  cost,  is  confined  mainly  to  the 
experimental  laboratory.      Platinum,  in    its 
malleable  state,  may  be  cut  •with  a  knife ;  but 
with  steel  it  forms  an  alloy  not  to  be  touched 
with  a  file. 

3424.  Iron,  Copper,  and  Zinc.    An  al- 
loy consisting  of  10  parts  cast  iron,  10  copper, 
and  80  zinc,  does  not  adhere  to  the  mould  in 
casting,  and  it  is  of  a  beautiful  lustre  when 
filed  and  polished.    The  least  fusible  metals 
are  melted  first,  and  the  zinc  last,  in  making 
it. 

3425.  Ormolu,  or  Mosaic  Gold.     Cop- 
per and  zinc,  equal  parts ;  melt  together  at  the 
lowest  possible  temperature  at  which  copper 
will  fuse,  and  stir  so  as  to  produce  a  perfect 
admixture  of  the  metals ;  then  add  gradually, 
small  portions  of  zinc  at  a  time,  until  the  alloy 
acquires  the  proper  color,  which  is  perfectly 
white,  while  in  the  melted  state.     It  must 
then  be  at  once  cast  into  figured  moulds. 
This  alloy  should  contain  from  52  to  55  per 
cent,  of  zinc. 

3426.  White  Metal.     Lead,  10  ounces ; 
bismuth,  6  ounces;  and  antimony,  4  drachms; 
or,  2  pounds  antimony,  8  ounces  brass,  and  10 
ounces  tin. 

3427.  French  Alloy  for   Forks  and 
Spoons.      This  is  a  beautiful  white  metal, 
very  hard,  and  taking   a  fine  polish.     It  is 
composed  of  69.8  parts  of  copper,  19.8  parts 
nickel,  5.5  of  zinc,  and  4.7  of  cadmium. 

3428.  French  Silver.    The  new  French 
silver  is  apparently  an  improvement  on  the 
old-fashioned  German  silver,  and  it  is  stated  to 
be  applicable  to  all  the  purposes  to  which  or- 
dinary commercial  silver  is  applicable.     It  is 
composed  of  copper,  56  per  cent.,  nickel,  40.64, 
tungsten,  2.0,  aluminum,  0.56.     It  is  a  white, 
ductile,  malleable,  tenacious,  sonorous  alloy; 
its  specific  gravity  is  nine-tenths  that  of  sil- 
ver, its  metallic  lustre  superior  to  that  of  sil- 
ver, and  its  fusibility  less,  probably  on  account 
of  the  tungsten  it  contains. 

3429.  The  Alloys  of  Aluminum.     Wo 
have  to  distinguish  between  alloys  in  which 
the  aluminum  predominates  and  such  ones  in 
which  the  other  metals  outweigh  the  latter. 
Those  impart  to  the  aluminum  new  proper- 
ties.    Iron  and  copper  do  not  act  injuriously 
if  the  admixture  is  not  considerable.     In  re- 
gard to  toughness,  the  union  of  7  per  cent,  of 
iron  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  pure 
aluminum.     Both  metals  easily  combine  with 
each   other.     Commercial  aluminum    mostly 
contains    iron;    it    remains   ductile  with   as 
much  as  10  per  cent,   of  copper,  and  when 
containing  only  half   as    much,  it  may  be 


worked  still  easier.  If  alloyed  with  small 
quantities  of  zinc,  tin,  gold,  or  silver,  the 
metal  is  rendered  hard  and  more  brilliant,  but 
remains  ductile.  Especially  recommended  is 
the  alloy  consisting  of  97  per  cent,  of  alum- 
inum, and  3  per  cent  of  zinc.  The  alloy  with 
7  per  cent,  of  tin  can  be  worked  well,  but  does 
not  take  a  very  fine  polish,  and  cannot  be 
cast,  since  a  more  fusible  alloy  with  a  large 
proportion  of  tin  is  separated.  Aluminum 
and  lead  do  not  unite.  The  composition  with 
3  per  cent,  of  silver  and  97  of  aluminum  pos- 
sesses a  beautiful  color,  and  in  equal  parts 
they  yield  an  alloy  of  the  hardness  of  bronze. 
The  union  of  99  per  cent,  of  aluminum  and  1 
of  gold  is,  though  hard,  still  ductile ;  its  color 
is  that  of  green  gold.  'With  10  per  cent,  of 
gold,  the  composition  is  rendered  crystalline. 
In  combining  aluminum  with  copper,  the  lat- 
ter must  be  melted  first,  and  the  former  added 
gradually  in  small  portions  at  a  time.  A  com- 
bination of  10  parts  aluminum  and  90  parts 
copper  produces  a  fine  aluminum  bronze, 
which,  however,  is  brittle  after  the  first  mix- 
ing ;  it  increases  in  strength  and  tenacity  only 
after  successive  fusions,  but  with  the  loss, 
each  time,  of  a  little  aluminum.  This  bronze 
may  be  forged  at  a  dull  red  heat  without  pre- 
senting flaws  or  cracks.  Like  copper,  it  is 
rendered  more  ductile  by  being  heated  and 
plunged  into  cold  water. 

3430.  Copper    and   Aluminum    for 
Journals.       The  most  important    alloy    of 
aluminum  is  that  composed  of  90  per  cent,  of 
copper  and  10  per  cent,  of  aluminum.    It  pos- 
sesses a  pale  gold  color,  a  hardness  surpassing 
that  of  bronze,  is  susceptible  ,of  taking  a  fine 
polish,  and  is  easier  forged  than  soft  iron. 
This  alloy  has  found  a  ready  market,  and,  if 
less  costly,   would  replace  red    and    yellow 
brass.    Its  hardness  and  tenacity  render  it 
peculiarly  adapted  for  the  journals  and  bear- 
ings of  machinery.     Christofle,  of  Paris,  who 
uses   it  for  a  journal  for  a  polishing  disk, 
found  that  it  lasted  six  times  longer  than  or- 
dinary journals — that  is,  18  months.     There 
were  2200  revolutions  made  per  minute.     It 
is  further  stated,  on  good  authority,  that  a 
journal  of  this  new  bronze,  which  was  em- 
ployed for  the  axle  of  a  sewing  machine,  mak- 
ing 240  revolutions  per  minute,  did  excellent 
service  for  1  year  without  indicating  the  least 
deficiency.     Journals  of  ordinary  bronze  do 
not,  as  is  well  known,  last  over  5  months. 
"When  more  than  10  per  cent,  of  aluminum 
enters  into  the  composition  of  the  bronze,  the 
alloy  gradually  becomes  weaker  and  less  mal- 
leable, and  at  length  so  brittle  that  it  is  easily 
pounded  in  a  mortar. 

3431.  Oroide,  or  Artificial  Gold.    This 
material  is  manufactured  largely  in  the  United 
States  into  imitation  jewelry  and  other  arti- 
cles, scarcely  distinguishable  from  gold,  ex- 
cept by  the  inferior  gravity ;  and  it  is  a  mat- 
ter of  surprise  to  almost  any  one  to  learn  that 
it  does  not  contain  a  single  grain  of  the  pre- 
cious metal.   It  is  made  by  taking  100  parts  of 
pure  copper,  17  of  pure  tin,  6  of  magnesia,  9 
of  tartar  of  commerce,  3.6  of  sal-ammoniac, 
and  1.6  of  unslacked  lime.    The  copper  is  first 
melted,  and  the  other  substances  (excepting 
the  tin)  added,  a  little  at  a  time,  and  the 
whole  well  stirred  for  30  minutes,  so  as  to 
produce  a  perfect  mixture,  when  the  tin  is 


ALLOYS. 


thrown  in  and  stirred  round  until  melted. 
The  crucible  is  then  covered,  and  the  fusion 
kept  up  for  25  minutes,  and  the  scum  taken 
off,  when  the  substance  is  ready  for  use.  It 
is  malleable  and  ductile,  and  can  be  worked 
in  any  form,  even  into  leaves  like  gold.  The 
alloy  may  also  be  made  by  substituting  gran- 
ulated zinc  for  tin,  but  it  will  not  retain  its 
brilliancy  so  long  as  when  tin  is  employed. 

3432.  Talmi  Gold.     A  beautiful  gold- 
colored  alloy,   sold  under  the  above  name, 
gives,  on  analysis:  copper,  86.4;  zinc,  12.2; 
tin,  1.1 ;  iron,  0.3.    The  presence  of  the  iron 
was  probably  accidental. 

3433.  Yellow  Dipping   Metal.    Melt 
together  2  parts  brass,  1  part  copper,  with  a 
little  old  brass,  and  Jounce  tin  to  every  pound 
of  copper.     This  alloy  is  almost  of  the  color, 
etc.,  of  gold  coin. 

3434.  Alloy  of  the    Standard  Mea- 
sure used  by  Government.     This  is  com- 
posed of  copper,  576  parts  ;   tip,  59 ;   yellow 
brass  (22  copper  to  1  of  zinc),  48  parts. 

3435.  Dentists'  Tin  Alloys  for  Moulds. 
The  gold  plates  on  which  artificial  teeth  are 
fastened,  are  fashioned  to  fit  exactly  to  the 
mouth  by  being  hammered  between  a  mould 
and  die,  cast  from  a  plaster  model  of  the 
mouth.    The  plaster  model  is  obtained  from 
a  mould  of  wax,  pressed  while  soft  into  the 
cavities  of  the  mouth,  and  allowed  to  harden. 
Duplicate  moulds  and  dies  are  necessary,  at 
different  stages  of  the  hammering,  in  order  to 
obtain  a  perfectly  fitting  plate.    The  neces- 
sary characteristics  of  the  metals  used  for  the 
moulds  and  dies  are  fusibility,  hardness,  or 
toughness,  and,fespecially  for  the  moulds,  a 
freedom    from    shrinkage    in  cooling.      The 
metal  usually  employed  for  the  dies  consists 
of  8  parts  tin,  1  part  lead,  and  1  part  bismuth. 
This  compound  is  much  harder  than  tin,  melts 
at  a  lower  heat,  shrinks  little,  or  practically 
none,  in  casting;  is  tough  and  strong.     It 
melts  at  about  330°  Fahr.    Although  gener- 
ally a  harder  and  less  fusible  metal  is  used 
for  the  first  swaging,  this  alloy  is  particularly 
convenient  for  taking  duplicate  dies  for  finish- 
ing.   Its  tenacity  adapts  it  for  cases  of  partial 
sets  representing  the  teeth.     The  mould  or 
counter-die  metal  is  made  by  adding  to  1  part 
of  this  mixture  6  parts  of  lead.    The  result  is 
harder  than  lead,  and  does  not  yield  like  it 
under  the  blow^  presenting  a  resistance  suffi- 
cient to  drive  the  plate  up  well  against  the 
die.    Its  shrinkage  is  but  slight ;  it  melts  at 
from  450°   to  460°.     It  is  designed  for  use 
when  the  dipping  process  is  resorted  to.     This 
consists  in  pouring  the  melted  metal  into  an 
appropriately  shaped  vessel  or  mould,  and 
pressing  the  plaster  model  into  the    metal 
before  the  moment  of  congelation.    If  used  at 
the  point  of  congelation,  the  plaster  cast  may 
be  employed  without  previous  baking ;  other- 
wise it  should  be  baked  to  expel  its  water  of 
crystallization. 

3436.  Hard  Tin  Alloys  for  Dentists' 
Moulds.  The  following  formula  affords  a 
highly  useful  alloy,  where  toughness  as  well 
as  hardness  is  essential :  tin,  16  parts ;  anti- 
mony, 1  part;  zinc,  1  part.  This  alloy  is 
much  harder  than  the  preceding  die  metal, 
and  equals  it  in  tenacity,  being  suited  for  any 
kind  of  die ;  it  requires  a  higher  temperature 
to  melt  it,  but  it  melts  sooner  than  tin,  or 


than  the  mould-metal  mentioned  in  the  pre- 
ceding receipt,  from  a  matrix  of  which  a  die 
may  be  taken  by  it  with  safety.  It  affords, 
in  sand,  a  perfect  die,  does  not  shrink,  and, 
whether  poured  into  a  sand  or  metal  mould, 
comes  out  with  a  smooth,  bright  face.  It  is 
the  best  combination  of  these  three  metals 
for  the  purpose.  But  when  dies  are  made  of 
it  from  sand  moulds,  and  a  more  fusible  metal 
is  needed  for  taking  counter-dies  or  moulds 
from  them,  it  may  be  had  by  a  combination 
of  5  parts  lead,  2  bismuth,  and  1  tin ;  or,  5 
parts  lead,  3  to  4  bismuth,  and  1  tin  afford 
a  still  more  fusible  compound,  although  harder. 
3437.  Copper  Alloys  for  Dentists' 
Moulds.  A  very  hard  and  most  valuable 
alloy  for  general  use  may  be  had  by  a  mixture 
of  tin,  12  parts ;  antimony,  2  parts ;  copper, 

1  part.     It  is  not  much  inferior  to  zinc  in 
hardness,  casts  without  sensible  shrinkage, 
and  makes  a  perfect  and  very  handsome  die, 
bright  and  smooth.     It  is  less  fusible  than  the 
hard  tin  die  metal  in  last  receipt,  but  may  be 
used  for  taking  dies  from  the  mould-metal 
mentioned  in  ifo.  3435;   but,  as  it  melts  at 
nearly  the   same  temperature,  this  requires 
care.    It  will  be  found  of  value  in  connection 
with  lead  moulds  made  by  dipping.     (See  No. 
3435.)    It  is  rather  brittle  for  dies  for  partial 
sets  representing  the  teeth,  as  these  are  liable 
to  break  on  removing  from  the  matrix;  but  it 
is  abundantly  strong  enough  for  swaging  pur- 
poses.   In  combining  these  metals    (which 
may  be  done  in  an  ordinary  charcoal  furnace, 
as  it  is  by  no  means  necessary  to  raise  the 
heat  to  the  melting  point  of  copper),  place 
the  copper  in  a  crucible  and  bring  it  to  a  red 
heat,   then  pour  in  the  tin  and  antimony, 
melted,  and  cover  the  whole  with  charcoal 
dust,  to  prevent  oxidation.     The  copper  will 
soon  liquefy,  or  dissolve,  as  it  were,  combining 
perfectly  with  the  other  metals,  without  fur- 
ther elevation   of  temperature.      To    guard 
better    against    volatilization    of    antimony, 
which  takes  place  at  a  high  red  heat,  it  is 
well  enough  to  add  to  the  copper  but  half  the 
tin  at  first,  and  when  these  are  combined,  add 
the  antimony,  and  then  the  remaining  tin. 
This  also  enables  one  to  conduct  the  second 
melting  in  a  larger  crucible,  or,  indeed,  in  an 
iron  ladle.     It  is  best  to  let  the  melted  mass 
cool  down  some,  before  pouring  it  from  the 
crucible,  as,  if  poured  out  at  too  high  a  heat, 
the   alloy  oxidizes.     A  larger  proportion  of 
antimony  and  zinc  increases  the  hardness  of 
the  metal,  but  with  a  tendency  to  imperfect 
castings.     If  tin  be  used  in  larger  quantit}T, 
the  alloy  is,  of  course,  softer,  and  it  shrinks 
when  cast.     The  relative  proportion  of  zinc 
and  antimony,  in  respect  to  each  other,  may 
be  somewhat  varied,  without  material  modi- 
fication of  the  qualities  of  the  compound ;  but, 
for  the  best  results,  the  sum  of  these  two  met- 
als should  hold  to  the  quantity  of  tin  em- 
ployed the  ratio  of  about  1  to  8.     For  fluidity, 
an  excess  of  antimony  over  copper  appears  to 
be  requisite.     For  non-shrinkage,   the  joint 
amount  of  antimony  and  copper  should  be  to 
the  quantity  of  tin  as  about  1  to  4;  as,  for 
example,  8  parts  tin,  1   antimony,  1  copper; 
or,  10  tin,  l|-  antimony,  1  copper ;  or,  12  tin, 

2  antimony,  1  copper.     For  taking  counter- 
dies  or  moulds  from  dies  of  the  last  named 
alloys,  a  suitable  metal,  fusible  at  about  380° 


ALLOYS. 


315 


Fahr.,  is  had  by  a  mixture  of  3  parts  lead,  1 
part  bismuth,  and  not  over  -pin  part  tin.  It 
is  wonderful  how  small  a  quantity  of  tin 
serves  to  improve  the  alloys  of  lead  and  bis- 
muth, giving  them  a  white,  clear  lustre, 
preventing  oxidation,  promoting  fusibility — in 
short,  producing  almost  a  new  metal. 

3438.  Cadinium  Alloys  for  Dentists' 
Moulds.  By  the  use  of  cadmium  we  may 
produce  still  harder  alloys  than  any  of  the 
preceding,  possessing  in  an  equal  degree  eveVy 


other  desirable  quality. 
1  part  of  antimony,  1 


Thus,  10  parts  of  tin, 
of  copper,  and  1  of 

cadmium,  produce  a  compound  which  has 
about  the  hardness  of  zinc :  it  casts  perfectly, 
and  is  nearly  all  that  could  be  desired,  •  except 
that,  like  the  copper  die  metals,  it  is  rather 
brittle  for  certain  castings.  (See  No.  3437.) 
Substituted  for  copper  in  these  connections, 
cadmium  appears  to  confer  greater  hardness 
and  toughness,  and,  up  to  a  certain  point,  pro- 
motes fusibility.  9  parts  of  tin,  1  part  of  an- 
timony, and  1  part  cadmium,  furnish  a  very 


of  tin  have  been  added,  the  heat  should  be 
reduced  to  a  dull  red,  to  prevent  oxidation ; 
then  add  the  remainder  of  the  metal  as  above. 
Tn  melting  the  composition,  it  is  better  to 
keep  a  small  quantity  of  powdered  charcoal 
on  the  surface  of  the  metal.  The  above  com- 
position is  called  hardening.  For  lining  the 
boxes,  take  1  pound  of  tnis  hardening  and 
melt  it  with  2  pounds  of  Banca  tin,  which 
produces  the  lining  metal  for  use.  Thus,  the 
proportions  for  lining  metal  are  4  pounds 
copper,  8  pounds  regulus  of  antimony,  and  96 
pounds  Banca  tin. 

3446.  Gongs  and  Cymbals.  The  secret 
method  employed  by  the  Chinese  /or  working 
the  hard  brittle  bronze  used  for  making  gongs 
and  cymbals,  seems  to  be  solved  by  the  fact 
that  the  bronze  of  which  these  instruments  are 
made,  consisting  of  copper  alloyed  with  about 
20  per  cent,  of  tin,  and  almost  as  brittle  as 
glass  at  ordinary  temperatures,  becomes  as 
malleable  as  soft  iron,  if  worked  at  a  dull  red 
heat.  This  discovery  was  recently  made  in 

the 


hard  and  tough  metal  of  a  compact,  homo-   Paris,   by  M.M.  Julien  and  Champion, 
geneous  structure,  which  casts  without  .shrink-  \  result  of  experiments  at  the  Paris  Mint. 


age,  forming  a  perfect  die  with  a  smooth, 


bright  face, 
point  of  tin. 


It  melts  at  about  the  melting 
In  the  employment  of  cadmium, 


care  must  be  taken  not  to  subject  it  to  a  heat 
high  enough  to  volatilize  it.  To  avoid  this 
danger,  it  is  best  to  unite  the  other  metals 
first,  and  then  add  the  cadmium  at  a  heat 
barely  sufficient  to  melt  it.  The  great  objec- 
tion to  this  metal  is  its  expensiveness. 

3439.  Alloy  of  Nickel  and  Copper. 
A  mixture  of  1  part  nickel  and  2  parts  copper 
produces   a  grayish-white  metal,  tenacious, 
ductile,  and  moderately  fusible. 

3440.  Alloys  of  "Platinum  and  Cop- 
per.    A  compound  of  1  part  platinum  and  4 
parts  copper  is  of  a  yellow-pink  color,  hard, 
ductile,  and  susceptible  of  a  fine  polish. 

An  alloy  of  3  parts  platinum  and  2  parts 
copper  is  nearly  white,  very  hard,  and  brittle. 

3441.  French  Bell  Metal.     The  metal 
used  in  France  for  hand-bells,  clock  bells  <fcc., 
is  made   of  55  to  GO  parts  copper,  30  to  40 
parts  tin,  and  10  to  15  parts  zinc. 

3442.  Bed  Tombac.     Put  into  a  cruci- 
ble 5£   pounds   copper;    when  fused  add   £ 
pound  zinc  ;  these  metals  will  combine,  form- 
ing an  alloy  of  a  reddish  color,  but  possessing 
more   lustre  than  copper,   and  also   greater 
durability. 

3443.  White  Tombac.     When  copper 
is  combined  with  arsenic,  by  melting  them 
together  in  a  close  crucible,  and  covering  the 
surface  with  common  salt,  to  prevent  oxida- 
tion, a  white  brittle  alloy  is  formed. 

3444.  Speculum  Metal  for  Tele- 
scopes. Melt  7  pounds  of  copper,  and  when 
fused  add  3  pounds  zinc  and  4  pounds  tin. 
These  metals  will  combine  to  form  a  beautiful 
alloy  of  great  lustre,  and  of  a  light  yellow 
color,  fitted  to  be  made  into  specula  for  tele- 
scopes. Mr.  Mudge  used  only  copper  and 
grain  tin,  in  the  proportion  of  2  pounds  of 
the  former  to  14^  ounces  of  the  latter. 

3445.  Babbitt's  Anti- Attrition  Metal. 
Melt  4  pounds  copper,  add  by  de'grees  12 
pounds  best  quality  Banca  tin,  8  pounds 
regulus  of  antimony,  and  12  pounds  more  tin 
while  the  composition  is  in  a  melted  state. 
After  the  copper  is  melted  and  4  or  5  pounds  j  of  copper,  4  of  zinc,  and  1  of  tin,  has  ."been 


3447.  Phosphorus  Bronzes.     A  great 
advance  has  lately  been  made  in  the  con- 
struction of  bronzes,  by  the  addition  of  a  small 
percentage  of  phosphorus,  although  the  pre- 
cise function  of  this  substance  has  not  been 
hitherto  well  understood.    According  to  Levi 
and  Kunzel,  however,  one  cause  of  the  in- 
feriority in  bronze  consists  in  the  constant 
presence  of  traces  of  tin  in  the  state  of  an 
oxide,  which  acts  mechanically  by  separating 
the  molecules  of  the  alloy,  thus  interposing 
a  substance  which  in  itself  has  no  tenacity. 
The    addition    of    phosphorus    reduces    this 
oxide,  and  renders  the  alloy  much  more  per- 
fect, improving  its  color,  its  tenacity,  and  all 
its  physical    properties.      The    grain  of   its 
fracture  resembles    more  that  of  steel,   its 
elasticity  is  much  augmented,  and  its  resist- 
ance    to    pressure     sometimes    more    than 
doubled.    Its  durability  is  greater,  and,  when 
melted,  it  is  of  greater  fluidity,  and  fills  the 
mould  iu  its  finest  details. 

3448.  Fontainemoreau's    Bronzes. 
There  is  a  kind  of  bronze  known  as  Fontaine- 
moreau's bronze,  in  which  zinc  predominates. 
It  is  said  to  answer  well  for  chill  moulding, 
that  is,  'for  pouring  in  metal  moulds,  by  which 
method  it   is  rendered    very  homogeneous. 
The  crystalline  nature  of  the  zinc  is  entirely 
changed  by  the  addition  of  a  small  proportion 
of  copper,  iron,  &c.    The  alloy  is  hard,  close- 
grained,  and  resembles  steel.    Moreover,  it  is 
easier  to  file  than  either  zinc  or  copper.     The 
following  table  presents  the  proportions  in 
use : 


Zinc. 

Copper. 

Cast  Iron. 

Lead. 

90 

8 

1 

1 

91 

8 

0 

1 

92 

8 

0 

0 

92 

7 

1 

0 

97 

2* 

i 

0 

97 

3                  0 

0 

99  £ 

0 

^ 

0 

99 

1 

o 

0 

3449.    TJse  of  Petroleum  in  Turning 

Metals.     A  bronze  composed  of  seven  parts 

316 


FLUXES. 


found  to  be  so  hard  as  to  be  difficult  to  work, 
and  yet  of  considerable  value  in  certain  ways 
when  worked.  Tarious  methods  have  been 
attempted,  aiming  at  effecting  a  ready  work- 
ing of  this  alloy,  and  M.  Bechstein  has  recent- 
ly, by  soaking  the  alloy  in  petroleum,  attained 
this  desirable  end. 

3450.  To  Clean  Bronze.     It  was  ob- 
served in  Berlin  that  those  parts  of  a  bronze 
statue  which  were    much    handled    by  the 
public  retained  a  good  surface,  and  this  led  to 
the  conclusion  that  fat  had  something  to  do 
with  it.    An  experiment  was  therefore  tried 
for  some  years  with  four  bronzes.     One,  says 
our  authority — Chambers'  Journal — was  coat- 
ed every  day  with  oil,  and  wiped  with  a  cloth ; 
another  was  washed  every  day  with  water; 
the    third  was    similarly  washed,   but    was 
oiled  twice  a  year;  and  the  fourth  was  left 
untouched.      The  first    looked    beautifully; 
the  third,  which  had  been  oiled  twice  a  year, 
was  passable ;  the  second  looked  dead ;  and 
the  fourth  was  dull  and  black. 

3451.  Engestroom   Tutania.      Melt 
together  4   parts  copper,  8  parts  regulus  of 
antimony,  and  1  part  bismuth.     "WTien  added 
to  100  parts  of  tin,  this  compound  will  be 
ready  for  use. 

3452.  Tutenag.     Melt  together  8  parts 
of  copper,   5  parts  of  zinc,  and  3   parts  of 
nickel. 

3453.  Kustitien's  Metal  for  Tinning. 
To  1  pound  of  malleable  iron,  at  a  white 
heat,  add  5  ounces  regulus  of  antimony,  and 
24  pounds  of  the  purest  Molucca  tin.     This 
alloy  polishes  without  the  blue  tint,  and  is 
free  from  lead  or  arsenic. 

3454.  Expansion  Metal.   Melt  together 
9  parts  of  lead,  2  parts  of  antimony,  and  1 
part  bismuth. 

3455.  Fluid  Alloy  of  Sodium  and 
Potassium.     If  4  parts  sodium  are  mixed 
with  2£  potassium,  the  alloy  will  have  exactly 
the  appearance  and  consistency  of  mercury, 
remaining  liquid  at  the  ordinary  temperature 
of  the  air. 

3456.  Fusible    Alloys.      Bismuth,   8 
parts;   lead,  5  parts;    tin,  3  parts;   melt  to- 
gether.   Melts  below  212°  Fahr.      Or:  Bis- 
muth, 2  parts;    lead,  5  parts;  tin,  3  parts. 
Melts  in  boiling  water.     Or :  Lead,  3  parts ; 
tin,  2  parts ;    bismuth,  5  parts ;   mix.     Melts 
at  197°  Fahr.    The  above  are  used  to  make 
toy-spoons,  to    surprise    children    by    their 
melting  in  hot  tea  or  coffee;    and  to  form 
pencils  for  writing  on  asses'  skin,  or  paper 
prepared  by  rubbing  burnt  hartshorn  into  it. 
The  last  may  be  employed  as  an  anatomical 
injection,  by  adding  (after  removing  it  from 
the  fire),  1  part  quicksilver  (warm).     Liquid 
at  172°;  solid  at  140°  Fahr. 

3457.  Wood's  Patent  Fusible  Metal 
melts  between  150°  and  160°  Fahr.    It  con- 
sists of  3  parts  cadmium,  4  tin,  8  lead,  and  15 
bismuth.    It  has  a  brilliant  metallic  lustre, 
and  does  not  tarnish  readily. 

3458.  The  Most  Fusible  Alloy. 
There  is  an  alloy  of  bismuth,  tin,  and  lead, 
which,  from  its  very  low  melting  point,  is  called 
fusible  metal.  (See  No.  3457).  Dr.  YonHauer 
has  found,  however,  that  the  addition  of 
cadmium  to  the  alloys  of  the  above  mentioned 
metals  reduces  their  melting  point  still  lower. 
An  alloy  of  4  volumes  cadmium,  with  5 


volumes  each  tin,  lead,  and  bismuth,  is  quite 
liquid  at  150°  Fahr.  In  parts  by  weight,  the 
above  would  be  224  parts  cadmium,  517i 
lead,  295  tin,  and  1050  bismuth.  (See  No. 
52).  An  alloy  of  3  volumes  of  cadmium 
with  4  each  of  tin,  lead,  and  bismuth,  fuses  at 
153^°  Fahr,  and  an  alloy  of  1  equivalent  of 
cadmium  with  two  equivalents  each  of  these 
three  other  metals,  at  155^°,  which  is  also 
the  fusing  point  of  an  alloy  of  1  part  each  of  all 
the  four  metals.  Dr.  von  Hauer  made  these 
alloys  by  fusing  their  ingredients  in  a  covered 
porcelain  crucible  at  the  lowest  practicable 
temperature.  They  all  become  pasty  at  lower 
temperatures  than  those  given  above;  the 
temperatures  quoted  are  those  at  which  the 
alloys  are  perfectly  fluid.  It  should  be  added 
that,  unfortunately,  all  these  alloys  very 
rapidly  oxidize  when  placed  in  water. 

3459.     Table  of  Alloys  of  Tin  and 
Lead  and  their  Melting  Heats. 


Tin. 

Lead. 

Bismuth. 

Fahr. 

1 

25 

0 

558° 

1 

10 

0 

541 

1 

5 

0 

511 

1 

3 

0 

482 

1 

2 

0 

441 

1 

1 

0 

370 

H 

1 

0 

334 

2 

1 

0 

340 

3 

n 

0 

356 

4 

i 

0 

365 

5 

i 

0 

378 

6 

i 

0 

381 

4 

4 

1 

320 

3 

3 

1 

310 

2 

2 

1 

292   • 

1 

1 

1 

254 

1 

2 

2 

236 

5 

3 

3 

202 

3 

5 

8 

197 

This  term  is  applied  to  sub- 
stances  of  easy  fusibility,  which  are 
added  to  others  more  refractory,  to  promote 
their  fusion.  Various  fluxes  are  given  in 
other  portions  of  this  work  (see  Soldering  and 
Enamels'),  but  the  principal  fluxes  are  the  fol- 
lowing : 

3461.  Black  Flux.     Cream  of  tartar,  2 
parts;  nitre,  1  part;  powder,  mix,  and  defla- 
grate by  small  quantities  at  a  time,  in  a  red 
hot  crucible.    This  is    merely  carbonate    of 
potash,  mixed  with  charcoal  in  a  finely-divi- 
ded state.    It  is  used  for  smelting  metallic 
ores,  and  exercises  a  reducing  action,  as  well 
as  promoting  the  fusion.     (See  No.  11.) 

3462.  White,    or    Cornish   Refining 
Flux.    Cream  of  tartar  and  nitre,  equal  parts; 
deflagrate  as  last. 

3463.  Morveau's    Reducing     Flux. 
Powdered  glass  (free  from    lead),   8  parts ; 
calcined  borax  and  charcoal,  each  1  part ;  all 
in  fine  powder,  and  triturated  together  thor- 
oughly.    Used  as  black  flux.    (See  No.  3461.) 

3464.  Flux  for  Reducing  Lead  Ore. 
Take  6  parts  red  argol,  4  parts  nitre,  2  parts 
borax,   and  1  part  fluorspar;  pulverize  well 
and  mix  thoroughly. 


SOLDERING   AND    WELDING. 


317 


3465.  Cornish  Reducing  Flux.    Crude 
tartar,  10  parts;  nitre,  4  parts;  borax,  3  parts. 
Mix  as  the  last. 

3466.  Crude  Flux.     Same  as  Hack  flux, 
(see    No.   3461),   omitting    the    deflagration. 
TTsed  for  reducing.     (See  No.  26.) 

3467.  Liebig's    Flux.      Carbonate    of 
soda  (dry,  see  No.  2065),  and  cyanide  of  po- 
tassium, 1  part  each.    Used  for  reducing  ar- 
senious  acid. 

3468.  Fresenius'  Flux.     Carbonate  of 
potassa  (dry),  (see  No.  2065),  3  parts;  cya- 
nide of  potassium,  1  part.     For  the  arsenical 
compounds. 

3469.  Christison's  Flux  for  Arsenic. 
Carbonate  of    soda,   (crystallized),   8  parts; 
charcoal  (in  fine  powder),  1  part ;  mixture  is 
gradually  to  be  heated  to  redness. 

3470.  Flux    for    Copper.     Sal-enixum 
(the  refuse  from  aquafortis),  to  be  obtained 
at  most  of  the  chemical  works  at  a  trifling 
cost,  is  strongly  recommended  by  Larkin  as  a 
general  flux  for  copper  foundings,  particular- 
ly where  large  masses  of  copper  have  to  be 
melted    prior    to    adding  the  tin  and   zinc. 
Nothing  is  equal   to   it.      This,  with  char- 
coal, surpasses  everything  else. 

3471.  Various  Fluxes.     Borax,  tartar, 
nitre,  sal-ammoniac,  common  salt,  limestone, 
glass,  fluorspar,  resin,  and  several  other  sub- 
stances are  used  as  fluxes  in  fusing  metals, 
and  soldering.     On  the  large  scale  crude  tar- 
tar is  employed.     (See  No.  3472.) 


Ooldering  and  Welding. 

k-J  Soldering  is  the  art  of  uniting  the  sur- 
faces of  metals  by  partial  fusion,  and  the  in- 
sertion of  an  alloy  between  the  edges,  which 
is  called  solder,  it  being  more  fusible  than  the 
metals  which  it  unites.  Solders  are  distin- 

fuished  as  hard  and  soft,  according  to  their 
ifficulty  of  fusion.  Hard  solders  usually 
melt  only  at  a  red  heat,  but  soft  solders  fuse 
at  lower  temperatures.  In  order  to  join  me- 
tals, it  is  obvious  that  a  solder  must  be  used 
that  melts  at  a  lower  temperature  than  the 
metals  to  be  joined ;  but  it  may  also  be  ne- 
cessary that  it  approach  as  nearly  as  possible 
to  them  in  point  of  hardness ;  and  occasional- 
ly, as  is  especially  the  case  with  jewelry, 
similarity  of  color  is  an  object.  The  heat 
requisite  for  soldering  small  articles,  such  as 
jewelry,  etc.,  is  usually  obtained  by  employ- 
ing a  common  blowpipe ;  as  by  its  use  a  sud- 
den heat  may  be  concentrated  on  a  small 
point.  Where  a  larger  surface  has  to  be 
heated,  the  flame  of  a  spirit  lamp  is  used. 
For  brazing,  or  uniting  larger  objects  with 
hard  solder,  a  furnace,  or,  if  necessary,  a  forge, 
may  be  employed.  In  working  tin  plates, 
the  solder  is  applied  and  fused  by  n  heated 
copper  tool  called  a  soldering-iron.  The  sur- 
faces of  parts  to  be  joined  by  soldering  must 
be  perfectly  clean;  and  in  order  to  ensure 
this,  as  well  as  to  counteract  the  oxidization 
which  most  metals  undergo  when  heated,  a 
flux  is  used  (see  No.  3479),  which  neutralizes 
or  removes  these  otherwise  serious  impedi- 
ments, securing  a  firm  joint. 

3473.  To  Make  Soldering  Fluid  for 
Soft  Solder.  Into  muriatic  acid  put  small 
pieces  of  zinc  until  all  bubbling  ceases ;  some 


add  1  ounce  sal-ammoniac  to  each  pound  of 
the  liquid. 

3474.  Neutral  Soldering  Fluid.    Dis- 
solve zinc  in  muriatic  acid  as  above,  then 
warm  the  solution  and  add  sufficient  oxide  or 
carbonate  of  tin  in  powder  to  neutralize  it. 
This  prevents  the  fluid  from  corroding  the 
seams. 

3475.  Soldering    Liquid.      Soldering 
liquid  is  made  by  taking  hydrochloric  acid, 
J   pint ;    granulated  tin,   1£   ounce ;  dissolve 
and  add  some  common  solder  and  hydrochlo- 
rate  of  ammonia. 

3476.  Flux  for  Soldering.     For  com- 
mon purposes  powdered  resin  is    generally 
used.      Stearic  acid,  obtained  from  the  candle 
factories,  makes  a  good  flux  for  fine  tin  work. 

3477.  Flux   for    Soldering   Iron   or 
Steel.      Dissolve  chloride  of  zinc  in  alcohol. 

3478.  Flux  for  Soldering  Steel.    This 
answers  perfectly  when  the  fracture  is  an  old 
one.    To  a  saturated  solution  of  zinc  in  1 
pint  muriatic  acid,  add  4  ounces  pulverized 
sal-ammoniac ;  boil  it  for  10  minutes ;  put  it, 
when  cold,  in  a  well  corked  bottle.    The  boil- 
ing must  be  done  in  a  copper  vessel. 

3479.  Soft  Soldering.    The  solder  is  an 
alloy  of  2  parts  tin  to  1  part  lead,  fusible  at 
340C  Fahr.;  or,  for  cheapness,  the  proportion 
is  sometimes  3  to  2,  fusible  at  334°.     This 
substance  is  applied  with  a  hot  copper  tool 
called  a  soldering-iron,  or  by  blowpipe  flame. 
Heat,  however,  causes  the  edges  of  the  metal 
to  oxidize;    therefore  the  edges  are  covered 
with  a  substance  having  a  strong  attraction 
for  oxygen,  and  disposing  the  metal  to  unite 
to  the  solder  at  a  low  temperature.    Such 
substances  are  called  fluxes,  and  are  chiefly 
borax,  resin,  sal-ammoniac,  muriate  of  zinc, 
Venice  turpentine,  tallow,  or  oil. 

3480.  Flux  for  Soldering  Brass.     For 
brass  or  other  similar  alloy,  resin,  sal-ammo- 
niac, and  muriate  of  zinc  are  the  proper  fluxes. 
Should  the  work  be  heavy  and  thick,  the  sol- 
dering requires  to  be  done  over  a  charcoal 
fire  in  order  to  keep  the  tool  heated  within 
proper  limits.    It  is  as  well  to  tin  the  surfaces 
before  soldering;   in  some  cases  simply  dip- 
ping into  a  pot  of  melted  solder  effects  the 
purpose,  but  the  dip  must  be  done  instantly 
to  be  effective. 

3481.  Flux  for  Soldering  Zinc.     Zinc 
is  difficult  to  solder,  from  the  fact  that  it  is 
apt  to  withdraw  the  tin  from  the  soldering 
bolt,  zinc  and  copper  having  a  stronger  affin- 
ity for  each  other  than  tin  and  copper.     The 
proper  flux  is  muriate  of  zinc,  made  by  dis- 
solving small  bits  of  zinc  or  zinc  drops  in 
muriatic   acid  mixed  with  an  equal   bulk  of 
water. 

3482.  Flux    for    Soldering    Tin    and 
Lead.     Tin  and  lead  require  resin  or  oil  as 
the  flux. 

3483.  Flux  for    Soldering   Pewter. 
Pewter  requires  a  flux  of  oil,  and  may,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  soldering-iron  process,  bo  solder- 
ed by  a  current  of  heated  air. 

3484.  Flux  for  Soldering  Britannia 
Metal.    Britannia  metal  should  nave  muriate 
of  zinc  for  a  flux,  and  be  soldered  by  the 
blowpipe. 

3485.  To  Solder  Iron.   Iron  requires  the 
surfaces  to  be  tinned  over  before  being  sol- 
dered; the  method  is  given  in  No.  3515. 


318 


SOLDERING    AND    WELDING. 


3486.  To  Soft  Solder  Small  Articles. 

Join  together  the  parts  to  be  soldered,  first 
moistening  them  with  soldering  fluid  (see  No. 
3473),  lay  a  small  piece  of  solder  over  the 
joint  and  apply  heat,  either  over  a  spirit 
flame,  or  by  means  of  the  blowpipe,  as  the 
case  may  be.  The  heat  should  be  withdrawn 
at  the  moment  of  fusion,  otherwise  the  solder 
may  become  brittle. 

3487.  To  Soft  Solder   Smooth    Sur- 
faces.    "Where  two  smooth  surfaces  are  to  be 
joined,   moisten  the   surfaces  with   soldering 
fluid  (see  No.  3473),  and  lay  a  piece  of  tin  foil 
between  them,  press  them  together  closely, 
and  apply  heat  sufficient  to  fuse  the  tin  foil. 

3488.  Hard   Soldering   or   Brazing. 
The  alloy  used  in  hard  soldering  is  generally 
made  of  equal  parts  of  copper  and  zinc ;  much 
of  the  zinc,  however,  is  lost  in  the  process,  so 
that  the  real  proportion  is  not  equal  parts. 
The  alloy  is  heated  over  a  charcoal  fire,  and 
broken  to  granulations  in  an  iron  mortar.    A 
different  proportion  is  used  for  soldering  cop- 
per and  iron,  viz. :  3  zinc  to  1  copper.     The 
commercial  name  is  "spelter  solder." 

3489.  Flux  for  Spelter  Solder.     The 
flux  employed   for  spelter  solder    is  borax, 
which  can  either  be  used  separately,  or  mixed, 
by  rubbing  to  a  cream,  or  mixed  with  the 
solder  in  a  very  little  water. 

3490.  To   Hard    Solder.     When  the 
work  is  cleaned,  bound,  fluxed,  and  speltered, 
the  whole  is  subjected  to  a  clear  charcoal  or 
coke  fire ;  or,  what  is  now  becoming  far  more 
general,  convenient,  cleanly,  and  manageable, 
a  bellows  blowpipe.     The  air  passes  from  a 
bellows  propelled    by  the  foot    through    A 
(See  Engraving.)    The  gas  passes  through  B, 


and  the  flame  can  be  directed  to  any  point, 
on  account  of  its  being  hinged  at  C  C.  The 
flame  can  be  extended  by  using  several  stands, 
or  by  constructing  several  burners  on  one 
stand.  The  heat  is  much  greater  than  from 
charcoal,  can  be  regulated  at  pleasure,  and 
kept  at  the  same  temperature  for  any  given 
time.  In  the  process  of  hard  soldering,  the 
water  should  be  driven  off  by  gentle  neat ; 
the  fusion  of  the  flux  soon  follows ;  a  glassy 
substance  appears  after  the  froth,  which,  in 
its  turn,  is  replaced  by  the  alloy  in  red  liquid 


form ;  the  blue  flame  from  the  ignited  zino 
informs  the  operator  that  the  solder  now  fuses, 
so  that,  as  soon  as  the  work  is  flushed  with 
solder,  it  must  be  withdrawn,  allowed  to  set, 
and  cooled  in  water. 

3491.  To  Make  Sclder.     The  mixture 
of  the  metals  is  performed  by  melting  them 
together  in  the  same  manner  as  for  alloys 
(see  No.  3347),  with  the  aid  of  a  flux.     The 
metals  employed  should  be  pure,  especially 
silver,  as  silver  coin  makes  the  solder  too 
hard. 

3492.  Solder  for  Gold.     Take  12  parts 
pure  gold,  2  parts  pure  silver,  and  2  parts 
copper. 

3493.'  Solder  for  Silver.  Take  5  parts 
pure  silver — not  silver  coin— 6  parts  brass, 
and  2  parts  zinc.  Or,  2  parts  silver,  1  part 
common  pins.  This  is  an  easy  flowing  solder. 
Use  a  gas  jet  to  solder  with. 

3494.  Hard  Solder.     Take  2  parts  cop- 
per and  1  part  zinc.     Or,  equal  parts  of  copper 
and  zinc.     (See  No.  3488.) 

3495.  Solder    for    Silver.      Take   19 
parts  fine  silver,  1  part  copper,  and  10  parts 
brass. 

3496.  Silver  Solder.     Melt  together  34 
parts,  by  weight,  silver  coin,  and  5  parts  cop- 
per ;  after  cooling  a  little,  drop  into  the  mix- 
ture 4  parts  zinc,  then  heat  again. 

3497.  Fine  Silver  Solder.    Melt  in  a 
clean  crucible,  19  parts  pure  silver,  10  parts 
brass,  and  1  part  copper ;  add  a  small  piece  of 
borax  as  a  flux. 

3498.  Solder   for    Copper.     Same    as 
hard  soldering.     (See  No.  3488.) 

3499.  Solder  for  Tin.     Take  4  parts 
pewter,  1  part  tin,  and  1  part  bismuth.     Use 
powdered  resin  when  soldering. 

3500.  Fine  Soft  Solder.     Take  2  parts 
tin  and  1  part  lead.     Used  for  soldering  tin 
plates,  and  tinning  copper.    Add  resin  as  a 
flux  when  melting. 

3501.  Very  Soft  Solder.     Equal  parts 
of  tin,  lead,  and  bismuth. 

3502.  Solder   for   Pewter.      Take   2 
parts  tin,  1  part  each  of  lead  and  bismuth. 

3503.  Glaziers'  Solder.    Take  3  parts 
lead  and  1  part  tin.     This  melts  at  500°  Fahr. 

3504.  Solder  Fusible  in  Boiling  "Wa- 
ter.    Take  1  part  tin,  1  part  lead,  and  2  parts 
bismuth. 

3505.  Plumbers'  Solder.     Take  1  part 
bismuth,  5  parts  lead,  and  3  parts  tin. 

3506.  Solder  for  Lead.     Take  2  parts 
lead  and  1  part  tin.     This  is  good,  if,  when  a 
small  quantity  is  poured  on  a  table,  little 
bright  spots  rise  as  it  cools.     "When  soldering 
with  this,  use  powdered  resin. 

3507.  Brass    Solder.     Take    12    parts 
brass,  6  parts  zinc,  and  1  part  tin. 

3508.  Strong  Brass  Solder.     Take  3 
parts  brass  and  1  part  zinc. 

3509.  To  Solder  Fine  Brass  Work. 
Wet  the  parts  with  a  strong  solution  of  sal- 
ammoniac,  apply  tin  foil  between  them,  and 
heat  no  more  than  is  necessary  to  fuse  the 
tin. 

3510.  To  Solder  Iron.      Apply  good 
tough  brass  (see  No.  3358)  with  borax  mixed 
with  water  to  the  consistence  of  cream.     (See 
No.  3488.) 

3511.  Solder  for  Joining  Steel.    This  is 
better  than  the  usual  brass  solder,  for  uniting 


SOLDERING    AND    WELDING. 


319 


cast-steel,  &c.,  as  it  fuses  at  a  lower  tempera- 
ture; and,  being  whiter  in  appearance,  renders 
the  seams  less  observable.  Take  19  parts,  by 
weight,  fine  silver ;  1  part  copper,  and  2  parts 
brass ;  melt  them  under  a  coat  of  charcoal 
dust. 

3512.  Brass  Solder  for  Brazing  Iron 
or  Steel.     Thin  plates  of  brass  are  to  be 
melted  between  the  pieces  that  are  to  be  join- 
ed.    If  the  work  be  very  fine — as  when  two 
leaves  of  a  broken  saw  are  to  be   brazed 
together — cover  it  with  pulverized  borax,  dis- 
solved in  water,  that  it  may  incorporate  with 
some  brass  powder  which  is  added  to  it ;  the 
piece  must  be  then  exposed  to  the  fire  with- 
out touching  the  coals,  and  heatdfl  till  the 
brass  is  seen  to  run. 

3513.  To   Solder  Ferrules  for    Tool 
Handles,  &c.     Take  the  ferrule,  lap  round 
the  jointing  a  small  piece  of  brass  wire,  then 
just  wet  the  ferrule,  scatter  ground  borax  on 
the  joining,  put  it  on  the  end  of  a  wire,  and 
hold  it  in  the  fire  till  the  brass  fuses.    It  will 
fill  up  the  joining,  and  form  a  perfect  solder. 
It  may  afterwards  be  turned  in  the  lathe. 

3514.  To  Tin  Iron  for  Soldering,  &c. 
Drop   zinc   shavings    into    muriatic    (nydro- 
chloric)  acid,  until  it  will  dissolve  no  more; 
then  add  J  its  bulk  of  soft  water.    Iron,  how- 
ever rusty,  will  be  cleansed  by  this  solution, 
and  receive  from  it  a  sufficient  coating  of 
zinc  for  solder  to  adhere  to.     (See  No.  3642.) 

3515.  To  Solder  Grey  Cast-Iron. 
First  dip  the  castings  in  alcohol,  after  which, 
sprinkle  muriate  of  ammonia  (sal-ammoniac) 
over  the  surface  to  be  soldered.  Then  hold 
the  casting  over  a  charcoal  fire  till  the  sal- 
ammoniac  begins  to  smoke,  then  dip  it  into 
melted  tin  (not  solder).  This  prepares  the 
metal  for  soldering,  which  can  then  be  done 
in  the  ordinary  way. 

3516.  Solder  for  Iron.     Fuse  together 
67  parts  copper  and  33  parts  zinc.     Or :    60 
parts  copper  and  40  parts  zinc. 

3517.  Hard    Solder   for  Copper   or 
Brass.     Take  13  parts  copper  and  1  part  zinc. 
Or :  7  copper,  3  zinc  and  2  tin. 

3518.  Solder  for  Brass  in  General. 
Take  4  parts  of  scraps  of  the  metal  to  be  sol- 
dered, and  1  part  zinc. 

3519.  To   Make  Solder-Drops.    Melt 
the  solder,  and  pour  it  in  a  steady  stream  of 
about  -J-  inch  in  diameter,  from  a  height  of  2 
or  3  inches,  into  cold  water ;  taking  care  that 
the  solder,  at  the  time  of  pouring,  is  no  hotter 
than  is  just  necessary  for  fluidity. 

3520.  Aluminum     Solder.      Mouray 
employs  five  different  solders,  being  different 
proportions   of  zinc,   copper,  and  aluminum. 
The  copper  is  melted  first,  the  aluminum  is 
then  added  in  3  or  4  portions ;  when  the  whole 
is  melted,  it  is  stirred  with  an  iron  rod.     The 
crucible  is  then  withdrawn  from  the  fire,  the 
zinc  gradually  stirred  into  the  mass,  and  the 
whole  poured  into  ingot  shaped  moulds,  pre- 
viously wiped  out  with  benzine.     The  parts 
given  in    the    following  proportions  are  by 
weight. 

1. — 80  parts  zinc,    8  parts  copper,  12  parts  aluminum. 
2.— 85     "        "        6    "  "9      " 

3.— 88     "        »        5     "  "7      " 

4.— 90     "        "        4    "  "6      " 

5 94     "        "        2    ••  "4      •• 

3521.  To    Solder   Aluminum.      The 
selection  of  either  of  the  above   solders  de- 


pends upon  the  nature  of  the  object.  In 
order  to  quicken  its  fusion  on  the  metal,  a 
mixture  of  3  parts  balsam  of  copaiba  and  1 
part  Venice  turpentine  is  made  use  of;  other- 
wise the  operation  is  performed  in  exactly  the 
same  manner  as  in  the  brazing  of  other  met- 
als. The  aluminum  solder  is  spread  without 
delay  on  the  previously  heated  surfaces  to  be 
fastened  together.  In  heating,  the  blue  gas( 
flame  or  the  turpentine  blast  lamp  is  em-' 
ployed.  The  more  and  oftener  the  solder  is 
spread  over  the  surface,  the  better  it  is. 

3522.  Aluminum  Solder.     If  soft  sol- 
der is  fused  with  one-half,  one-fourth,  or  one^ 
eighth  of  its  weight  of  zinc  amalgam  (to  be 
made  by  dissolving  zinc  in  mercury,  see  No. 
3539),  a  more  or  less  hard  and  easily-fusible 
solder  is  obtained,   which  may  be  used  to 
solder  aluminum  to  itself  or  to  other  metals. 

3523.  Welding  Powder  for  Iron  and 
Steel.     For  welding  iron  and  steel  a  compo- 
sition has  lately  been  patented  in  Belgium, 
consisting  of  iron  filings,  40  parts ;  borax,  20 
parts ;  balsam  of  copaiba,  or  some  other  resin- 
ous oil,  -2 ;  and  sal-ammoniac,  3  parts.   They 
are  mixed,  heated,  and  pulverized.    The  pro- 
cess of  welding  is  much  the  same  as  usual. 
The  surfaces  to  be  welded  are  powdered  with 
the    composition,   and    then    brought    to    a 
cherry-red  heat,  at  which  the  powder  melts, 
when  the  portions  to  be  united  are  taken  from 
the  fire  and  joined.   If  the  pieces  to  be  welded 
are  too  large  to  be  both  introduced  at  the  same 
time  into  the  forge,  one  can  be  first  heated 
with  the  welding  powder    to    a   cherry-red 
heat,  and  the  others  afterwards  to  a  white 
heat,  after  which  the  welding  may  be  effected. 

3524.  "Welding  Composition  for  Cast 
Steel.     Take  borax,  10  parts ;  sal-ammoniac, 
1  part ;  grind  or  pound  them  roughly  together, 
then  fuse  them  in  a  metal  pot  over  a  clear  fire, 
taking  care  to  continue  the  heat  until  all 
spume    has    disappeared   from    the    surface. 
When  the  liquid  appears  clear,  the  composi- 
tion is  ready  to  be  poured  out  to  cool  and  con- 
crete;   afterwards,   being  ground  to    a  fine 
powder,  it  is  ready  for  use.    To  use  this  com- 
position,   the    steel    to    be  welded   is    first 
raised  to  a  bright  yellow  heat,  it  is  then  dip- 
ped among  the  welding  powder,  and  again 
placed  in  the  fire,  until  it  attains  the  same 
degree  of  heat  as  before;  it  is  then  ready  to  be 
placed  under  the  hammer. 

3525.  Welding  Powder.     For  iron  or 
steel,  or  both  together,  calcine  and  pulverize 
together  100  parts  iron  or  steel  filings,  10  sal- 
ammoniac,  6  borax,  5  balsam  copaiba.     One 
of  the  pieces  is  to  be  heated  red,  carefully 
cleaned  of  scale,  the  composition  is  to  be 
spread  upon  it,  and  the  other  piece  applied 
at  a  white  heat  and  welded  with  the  hammer. 

3526.  Welding  Composition.      Fuse 
borax  with  ~fa  its  weight  saT-ammouiac,  cool, 
pulverize,  and  mix  with  an  equal  weight  of 
quicklime,  when  it  is  to  be  sprinkled  on  the 
red  hot  iron  and  the  latter  replaced  in  the 
fire. 

3527.  Welding  Composition.    Take  15 
parts  borax,  2  of  sal-ammoniac,  and  2  of  prus- 
siate  of  potash.     Being  dissolved  in  water,  the 
water  should  be  gradually  evaporated  at  a  low 
temperature. 

3528.  Welding  Composition.    Mix  10 
parts  borax  with  1  part  sal-ammoniac;  fuse 


320 


AMALGAMS. 


the  mixture,  and  pour  it  on  an  iron  plate. 
When  cold,  pulverize  it,  and  mix  it  with  an 
equal  weight  of  quicklime,  sprinkle  it  on  iron 
heated  to  redness,  and  replace  it  in  the  fire. 
It  may  be  welded  below  the  usual  heat. 

3529.  Compound  for  Welding  Steel. 
The  following  composition  is  said  to  be  su- 
perior   to    borax    for    welding    steel.       Mix 
coarsely  powdered  borax  with  a  thin  paste  of 
Prussian  blue;  then  let  it  dry.     The  combi- 
nation seems  to  be  a  rational  one. 

3530.  Antimonoid.    A  welding  powder, 
named  antimonoid,  has  been  in  use  for  some 
time  past  in  Germany,  and  found  to  be  of 
great  efficiency.    The"  formula  for  its  prepara- 
tion has,  until  lately,  been  kept  a  secret;  it 
consists  of   4  parts  iron    turnings,   3    parts 
borax,  2  parts  borate  of  iron,  and  1  of  water. 
3531.    Fluxes  for  Soldering  and  "Weld- 
ing. 

For  Iron  or  steel Borax  or  sal-ammoniac. 

Tinned  iron Resin  or  chloride  of  zinc. 

Copper  and  brass Sal-ammoniac  or  chloride 

Zinc Chloride  of  zinc,  [of  zinc. 

Lead Tallow  or  resin. 

Lead  and  tin  pipes Resin  and  sweet  oil. 


Amalgams.  Substances  formed 
by  mixing  quicksilver  with  another 
metal.  Alloys  containing  quicksilver.  Mer- 
cury unites  with  most  of  the  metals  by  mere 
contact,  forming  amalgams.  These  are  em- 
ployed for  various  purposes  in  the  arts,  as 
silvering,  gilding,  coating  mirrors,  «fec. 

3533.  Amalgam  of  Gold  for  Gilding 
Brass,  Copper,  &c.     Place  one  part  grain 
or  leaf  gold  in  a  small  iron  saucepan  or  ladle, 
perfectly  clean,  then  add  8  parts  mercury,  and 
apply  a'gentle  heat,  when  the  gold  will  dis- 
solve;   agitate  the  mixture  for  one  minute 
with  a  smooth  iron  stirrer,  and  pour  it  out  on 
a  clean  plate  or  stone  slab.    When  cold  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

3534.  To  Gild  with  Gold  Amalgam. 
For  gilding  brass,  copper,  <fec.    The  metal  to 
be  gilded  is  first  rubbed  over  with  a  solution 
of  nitrate  of  mercury,  and  then  covered  with 
a  very  thin  film  of  the  amalgam.     On  heat 
being  applied,  the  mercury  volatilizes,  leaving 
the  gold  behind.    A  much  less  proportion  of 
gold  is  often  employed  than  the  above,  where 
a  very  thin  and  cheap  gilding  is  required,  as, 
by  increasing  the  quantity  of  the  mercury,  the 
precious  metal  may  be  extended  over  a  much 
larger  surface.     (See  No.  3394.) 

3535.  Amalgam  of  Silver  for  Silver- 
ing Metals.     Prepare  in  the  same  way  as 
amalgam  of  gold,  but  substitute  silver  instead 
of  gold.     (See  No.  3533.) 

3536.  To  Obtain  Pure  Silver  in 
Powder.  The  best  process  to  obtain  pure 
silver  in  powder,  is  by  adding  copper  to  a 
dilute  solution  of  silver  in  nitric  acid,  until  all 
action  ceases.  The  silver  is  precipitated  in  a 
fine  powder.  Before  using  the  silver  powder 
to  prepare  amalgam,  it  must  be  thoroughly 
washed  until  the  water  ceases  to  have  any 
acid  taste,  or  litmus  paper  is  unchanged  by 
it.  (See  Nos.  3212,  ^-c.)  The  silver  In  this 
form,  besides  being  necessarily  purer,  amal- 
gamates more  readily  with  the  quicksilver. 

3537.  To  Make  a  Solution  of  Silver. 
Dissolve  a  silver  coin  in  slightly  diluted  nitric 


acid.     Mexican  coin  is  preferable,  because  it 
is  purer.     (See  .Yo.  3213.) 

3538.  Amalgam   for   Silvering  the 
Insides     of     Convex     Mirrors,     Glass 
Globes,  &c.    Lead  and  tin,  of  each  2  ounces ; 
bismuth,  2  ounces ;  mercury,  4  ounces.     Add 
the  mercury  to  the  rest  in  a  melted  state  and 
remove  from  the  fire ;  mix  well  with  an  iron 
rod.    This  amalgam  melts  at  a  low  heat,  and 
is  employed  for  silvering  the  insides  of  hollow 
glass  vessels,   globes,    convex    mirrors,    <fec. 
The   glass,   being  well  cleaned,  is  carefully 
warmed,  and  the  amalgam,  rendered  fluid  by 
heat,  is  then  poured  in,  and  the  vessel  turned 
round  and  round,  so  that  the  metal  may  be 
brought  !n  contact  with  every  part  of  the 
glass  which  it  is  desired  to  cover.     At  a  cer- 
tain temperature  this   amalgam  readily  ad- 
heres to  glass.     (See  Nos.  3545,  and  3614.) 

3539.  To  Make  Zinc  Amalgam  for 
Electrical  Machines.     Melt  2  ounces  zinc 
in  a  ladle,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  stir  into 
it  5  ounces  mercury  previously  heated.     Stir 
till  cold,  and  then  powder  it.     Keep  it  in  a 
tightly  corked  bottle. 

3540.  Improved  Electric  Amalgam. 
It  is  well  known  that  a  deposit  of  moisture 
greatly  interferes  with  the  action  of  electrical 
machines,  experiments  often  wholly  failing 
from  this    cause,   especially  in    the    winter 
season.     Mr.  F.  Dietlen,  of  Klagenfurt,   has 
devised  a  method  by  which  he  obviates  this 
difficulty,  consisting  simply  in  a  modification 
of  the  amalgamation  of  the  rubber  cushion. 
For  this  purpose  he  pours  petroleum  over 
zinc  filings,  and  adds  an  equal  quantity  of 
mercury  (though  an  excess  of  mercury  facili- 
tates the    process).     The    mixture   is    then 
brought,  by  working  together  in  a  mortar,  to 
the  condition  of  a  homogeneous  paste,  and 
pressed  between  a  double  cloth.    A  soft  mass 
is  thus  obtained,  which,  however,  soon  hard- 
ens; but  which,  being  finely  pulverized  and 
mixed  with  a  proper  quantity  of  grease,   is 
spread  upon  the  rubber  cushion.     This  makes 
the  surface  quite  glossy,  and,  when  the  glass 
disk  has  previously  been  wiped  with  a  piece 
of  cotton  slightly  impregnated  with  petroleum 
or  benzine,  will    develop  electricity  abund- 
antly, even  in    damp    localities  where    the 
usual  arrangement  fans. 

3541.  Boettger's     Amalgam     for 
Electrical    Machines.       Boettger    recom- 
mends a  mixture  of  2  parts  (by  weight)  of 
pure  zinc,  while  melted,  to  be  mixed  with  1 
part  of  mercury.    This  should    be  kept  in 
pieces  in  a  well-stoppered  flask,  and  is  said  to 
be  superior  to  the  amalgam  made  of  2  parts 
mercury,  1  zinc,  and  1  tin. 

3542.  Tin  Amalgam.      Amalgam  of 
tin  forms  readily  by  introducing   the  solid 
metal  into  the  mercury.    In  this  way  hexag- 
onal   crystalline  formations    have  been   ob- 
served ;  there  is  always  a  decided  contraction 
in  bulk.     The  hard  amalgam  of  tin  obtained 
by  passing  the  liquid  amalgam  through  fine 
leather,  then  drying,  and  afterwards  rubbing 
under  water,  forms  one  of  the  plastic  cements 
for  filling  teeth.     (See  No.  3553).     It  hardens 
within  a  few  days,  and  is,  besides,  used  for 
hermetically  closing  glass  tubes.     Mixed  with 
a  little  silver  amalgam  it  is  a  less  plastic  mass 
and  requires  a  little  more  mercury,  but  it 
hardens  much  sooner. 


AMALGAMS. 


321 


3543.  Copper     Amalgam.       Copper 
amalgam  is  best  obtained  by  first  precipitat- 
ing metallic  copper  in  a  fine  state  of  division 
from  a  solution  of  3  ounces  of  blue  vitriol  in  a 
quart  of  water  mixed  with  an  ounce  of  oil  of 
vitriol,  by    means    of  clean  wrought  iron ; 
then,  after  washing  it  thoroughly  with  hot 
water,  moistening  the  powder  with  a  solution 
of  proto-nitrate  of  mercury,  and  finally  in- 
corporating it  under  water  in  a  mortar  with 
the    required    quantity    of  mercury.      This 
amalgam,  like  the  hard  amalgam  of  tin,  has 
the  property  of  being  softened  and  rendered 
plastic  by  mere  trituration  with  a   pestle. 
The  proportions  are  generally  3  parts  of  cop- 
per to  7  of  mercury. 

3544.  Tin  and  Cadmium  Amalgam. 
Similar  properties  to  tin  and  copper  amalgams 
belong  to  the  compound  amalgam  of  tin.  and 
cadmium,  which  are  fused  together  in  the 
proportion  of  2  to  1  and  mixed  with  wanned 
mercury  in  excess,  which  latter  is  removed 
by  pressure  when  cold.     (See  No.  3549.) 

3545.  Amalgam  for  Silvering  Glass 
Ornaments.      The  silver  coating  of   glass 
beads  and  thoso  large  sized  glass  ornaments 
now  in  fashion,  is  produced  by  shaking  within 
them  an  amalgam  composed  of  8  parts  bis- 
muth, 5  of  lead,  3  of  tin,  and  from  7  to  9 
parts  of  mercury.     (See  No.  3538.)     A  mix 
turo  of  2  parts  each  tin  and  bismuth  and  1  of 
mercury,  when  powdered,  is  used  for  painting 
as  imitation  silver  bronzes. 

3546.  Amalgams   of    the  Alkaline 
Metals.      The    amalgams    of  the    alkaline 
metals  are  remarkable  for    their   hardness, 
though  the  metals    sodium  and    potassium 
themselves    are    quite  soft  at  the  ordinary 
temperature.      One  per  cent,  of  sodium  in 
mercury    produces    an    amalgam    which    is 
liquid,  but  still  quite  thick,  and  i  per  cent, 
of  potassium  renders  the  mercury  still  more 
so.    A  very  hard  compound  is  that  consisting 
of  200  parts  of  mercury,  10  of  potassium,  and 
1  of  sodium.     By  means  of  the  alkaline  amal- 
gams, most  other  mercurial  alloys  may  be 
produced,  by  introducing  them  into  the  solu- 
tion of  other  metals.    Zinc  amalgam  is  like- 
wise used  for  the  purpose. 

3547.  Amalgam  of  Fusible   Metal. 
Fusible  metal  forms  an  amalgam  with  ^  of 
its  weight  of  mercury,  which  fuses  far  below 
the  boiling  point  of  water;  cadmium  increases 
the  fusibility  still  more.     A  mixed  amalgam 
for  injecting  anatomical  preparations,  which  is 
hard  at  ordinary  temperature,  but  becomes 
soft  at  150°,  and  fuses  at  176°  Fahr.,  consists 
of  20  parts  of  bismuth,  12  of  lead,  7  of  tin, 
and  4  of  mercury.     (See  Nos.  3456,  ^-c.) 

3548.  Amalgam  for  Varnishing 
Plaster  Casts.  Melt  together  1  part  each 
tin  and  bismuth,  and  stir  in  thoroughly  1  part 
mercury.  When  cool,  pound  the  amalgam 
with  white  of  egg,  forming  a  metallic  paint 
which  may  be  laid  on  with  a  brush. 

3549.  Evans'  Tooth  Amalgam.  Take 
of  pure  grain  tin,  2  parts;  cadmium  and 
bees'  wax,  of  each  1  part ;  melt  them  together 
in  a  porcelain  crucible  at  a  heat  not  exceed- 
ing 600°  Fahr.,  and  cast  the  alloy  so  as  to 
form  a  small  ingot,  which,  when  cold,  must 
be  reduced  to  filings.  For  use,  a  small 
quantity  of  these  filings  is  formed  into  an 
amalgam  with  quicksilver,  the  excess  of  the 


latter  is  squeezed  out  through  a  piece  of 
chamois  leather,  and  the  amalgam  at  once 
applied  to  the  tooth.  (See  No.  3550.)  This 
cement  is  recommended  by  Mr.  Evans  as  very 
durable  and  unobjectionable.  Its  color  is 
intermediate  between  that  of  silver  and  tin, 
but  it  is  said  not  to  darken  so  readily  as  the 
simple  amalgams  of  those  metals.  (See  No. 
3544.) 

3550.  Dentists'  Amalgam,  or   Gold 
Stopping.     The  dentists,  in  preparing  and 
using  this,  commonly  proceed  as  follows  :  A 
little  pure  grain-gold  is  heated  in  a  bright 
iron    ladle    (or    capsule),   and  enough  pure 
mercury  added  to  render  it  of  a  doughy  con- 
sistence at  the  temperature  of  hot  water. 
When  it  has  become  cold,  the  excess  of  mer- 
cury, if  any,  is  removed  by  pressure  in  a  piece 
of  chamois  leather.    In  using  it,  a  little  of 
the  amalgam,   as    hot  as  can  be  borne,  is 
kneaded  in  the  hand,  and  at  once  pressed 
into  the  cavity  of  the  tooth,  where  it  gradual- 
ly hardens.    It  is  an  excellent  and   durable 
stopping,  and  is,  perhaps,   preferable  to  all 
others,  except  the  diamond  tooth  cement  (see 
Index)  for  filling  up  cracks  and  cavities  in  the 
enamel,  particularly  of  the  front  teeth,  on 
account  of  its  color  and  the  ease  of  its  appli- 
cation. 

3551.  Dentists'  A-ma.1gfl.Tn   of  Silver 
is  used  in  the  same  way  as  the  last ;  but  its 
color  is  less  natural,  and  is  apt  to  be  blackened 
by  the  sulphur  in  the  secretions  of  the  mouth 
and  the  food.     (See  No.  3535.) 

3552.  Dentists'  Amalgams  of  Tin 
and  Zinc  are  also  employed  as  tooth  cement, 
but  are  inferior  in  color  to,  darken  sooner, 
and    possess    less  durability,   than   that    of 
silver. 

3553.  Alloy  for  Filling  Teeth.     An 
alloy,  which  is  sold  in  commerce  in  the  shape 
of  large,  almost  white   filings,  shows  upon 
analysis  the  following  composition :  Tin,  611 ; 
silver,  388;    copper,   1.    The  alloy  is  to  bo 
amalgamated  before  use  by  warming  it  in  a 
spoon  with  a  little  mercury.    The  combina- 
tion takes  place  rapidly,  and  the  amalgam, 
while  still  warm,  is  pressed  in  a  piece  of  soft 
leather,  whereby  the  excess  of  mercury  is  re- 
moved.   It  is  now  far  preferable  to  the  cele- 
brated copper  amalgam,  as  it  retains  its  white 
color  in  the  mouth,  while  the  other  turns 
dark.    The  hardness  is  a  little  less  th.au  that 
of  the  copper  amalgam.     (See  No.  3542.) 

3554.  To  Becover  the  Silver  Alloy 
from    Dentists'    Amalgam.      The    silver 
alloy  may  be  easily  obtained  from  scraps  of 
dentists'  "amalgam  in  the  following  manner: 
Provide  2  crucibles  of  different  sizes,  so  that 
the  smaller  one,  inverted,  will  rest  a  little  way 
within  the  larger.    Make  a  hole,  about  i  inch 
in  diameter,  in  the  bottom  of  the  smalle^  to 
provide    a   vent   for   the  mercurial  vapors. 
Place  the  pieces  of  amalgam  in  the  larger 
crucible,  invert  the  smaller  one  into  it,  Into 
them,  and  fasten  them  firmly  together  with 
steel  wire.    Place  the  whole,  as  soon  as  the 
luting  is  dry,  into  a  blast  furnace,  and  in  a 
short  time  the  mercury  will  all  have  passed 
off  in  vapor,  when  the  crucible  may  be  set 
aside  to  cool,  and  the  alloy  will  be  found  in  a 
button  at  the  bottom.    As  some  portion  of 
the  tin  in  the  alloy  has  been  lost  in  the  opera- 
tion, the  button  should  be  remelted  in  a  clean 


322 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


open  crucible,  with  the  addition  of  a  little 
pure  tin.  This  will  now  be  ready  to  make 
again  into  amalgam  as  occasion  requires. 

3555.  B.uhmkorf's  Amalgamating 
Fluid.  Dissolve  by  heat  2  parts  by  weight 
of  mercury  in  1  part  aqua  regia;  when  dis- 
solved, add  10  parts  hydrochloric  acid.  A 
worn-out  zinc  will  be  amalgamated  in  a  few 
seconds  by  immersion  in  this  fluid. 


,  Silvering,  &c. 

ln  this  department  we  give  processes  for 
gilding  and  silvering  wood,  metals,  paper,  and 
glass ;  together  with  a  number  of  receipts  for 
coating  various  metals  with  other  metallic 
deposits. 

3557.  Implements  for  Gilding   on 
Wood.    A  sufficient  quantity  of  leaf-gold, 
which  is  of  two  sorts — deep  gold,  and  pale,  or 
lemon  gold.     The  former  is  the  best ;  the  lat- 
ter very  useful,  and  may  occasionally  be  intro- 
duced for  variety  or  effect. 

A  gilder's  cushion;  an  oblong  piece  of 
wood,  covered  with  rough  calf-skin,  stuffed 
with  flannel  several  times  doubled,  with  a 
border  of  parchment,  about  4  inches  deep  at 
one  end,  to  prevent  the  air  blowing  the  leaves 
about  when  placed  on  the  cushion. 

A  gilding  knife,  with  a  straight  and  very 
smooth  edge,  sharp  enough  to  cut  the  gold, 
but  not  sufficiently  so  to  cut  the  cushion.  It 
must  be  perfectly  clean,  or  the  gold  leaf  will 
adhere  to  it. 

Several  camel's-hair  pencils  of  assorted  sizes; 
and  tips,  made  of  a  few  long  camel's  hairs  put 
between  two  cards,  in  the  same  manner  as 
hairs  are  put  into  tin  cases  for  brushes,  thus 
making  a  flat  brush  with  a  very  few  hairs. 

A  burnisher,  which  is  a  crooked  piece  of 
agate  set  in  a  long  wooden  handle. 

3558.  Burnished  Gilding.     This  style 
of  gilding  is  adapted  for  fine  work,  such  as 
picture   frames    and    other  fancy  furniture. 
We  shall  endeavor  to  give  the  necessary  in- 
structions, in  the  following  receipts,  to  those 
who  wish  to  undertake  this  kind  of  work, 
and  with  care  and  practice  they  may  perform 
the  operation  successfully. 

3559.  To  Make  Size  for  Preparing 
Picture  Frames  and  Other  Wood  Work 
for  Gilding.     To  i  pound  parchment  shav- 
ings, or  cuttings  of  white  leather,  afld  3  quarts 
water,  and  boil  it  in  a  proper  vessel  till  re- 
duced to  nearly  half  the  quantity;  then  take  it 
off  the  fire,  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve.    Be 
careful,  in  the  boiling,  to  keep  it  well  stirred, 
and  do  not  let  it  burn. 

3560.  To  Prepare  or  Whiten  Picture 
Frames  or  Wood  Work.     First,  with  the 
above  size  alone,  and  boiling-hot,  go  over  the 
frames  in  every  part:  then  mix  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  whiting  with  size,  to  the  consist- 
ency of  thick  cream,  with  which  go  over  every 
part  of   the  frame  6  or  7   times,   carefully 
letting  each  coat  dry  before  proceeding  with 
the  next;  this  will  produce  a  white  ground, 
nearly  or  quite  ^  inch  in  thickness.    The  size 
must  not  be  too  thick,  and,  when  mixed  with 
the  whiting,  should  not  be  put  on  as  hot  as 
the  first  coat  is  by  itself.    It  will  be  better 
to  separate  the  dirty  or  coarse  parts  of  the 
whiting  by  straining  it  through  a  sieve. 


3561.  To  Clean  and  Polish  Frames. 

"When  the  prepared  frames  are  quite  dry, 
clean  arid  polish  them.  To  do  this,  wet  a 
small  piece  at  a  time,  and,  with  a  smooth,  fine 
piece  of  cloth,  dipped  in  water,  rub  the  part 
till  all  the  inequalities  are  removed ,  and  for 
those  parts  where  the  fingers  will  not  enter, 
as  the  mouldings,  <fec.,  wind  the  wet  cloth 
round  a  piece  of  wood,  and  by  this  means 
make  the  surface  all  equally  smooth  and 
even.  Where  there  is  carved  work,  &c.,  it 
will  sometimes  be  necessary  to  bring  the 
mouldings  to  their  original  sharpness  by 
means  of  chisels,  gouges,  &c.,  as  the  prepara- 
tion will  be  apt  to  fill  up  all  the  finer  parts  of 
the  work,  which  must  be  thus  restored.  It  is 
sometimes  the  practice,  after  polishing,  to  go 
over  the  work  once  with  fine  yellow  or  Roman 
ochre. 

3562.  To  Make  Gold  Size  for  Frames. 
Grind  fine  sal-ammoniac  well  with  a  muller 
and  stone;   scrape  into  it  a  little  beef-suet, 
and  grind  all  well  together ;  after  which  mix 
in  with  a  pallet    knife   a    small  proportion 
of  parchment  size  with  a  double  proportion  of 
water. 

3563.  Gold  Size  for  Picture  Frames. 
Grind  a  lump  of  tobacco  pipe  clay  into  a  very 
stiff  paste  with  thin  size;  add  a  small  quantity 
of  red  ochre  and  fine  black  lead,  ground  very 
fine,  and  temper  the  whole  with  a  small  piece 
of  tallow. 

3564.  To  Prepare  Picture  Frames  for 
Gilding.     Take  a  small  cup  or  pipkin,  into 
which  put  as  much  gold  size  as  you  judge  suf- 
ficient for  the  work  in  hand ;  add  parchment 
size  till  it  will  just  flow  from  the  brush;  when 
quite  hot,  pass  over  your  work  with  ar  very 
soft  brush,  taking  care  not  to  put  the  first 
coat  too  thick ;  let  it  dry,  and  repeat  it  two 
or  three  times  more,  and,  when  quite  dry, 
brush  the  whole  with  a  stiff  brush,  to  remove 
any  roughness.     The  work  is  now  ready  for 
applying    the    gold.      The    parchment    size 
should  be  of  such  a  consistence,  when  cold, 
as  the  common  jelly  sold  in  the  stores ;  for  if 
too  thick  it  will  be  apt  to  chip,  and  if  too  thin 
it  will  not  have  sufficient  body. 

3565.  To  Apply  Gold  Leaf  to  Picture 
Frames  and  Other  Wood  Work.     This  is 
the  most  difficult  part  of  the  operation,  and 
requires  some  practice ;  but,  with  a  little  cau- 
tion and  attention,  it  may  be  easily  perform- 
ed.    Turn  the  gold  out  of  the  book  onto  the 
cushion,  a  leaf  at  a  time ;  then,  passing  tho 
gilding-knife  under  a  leaf,  bring  it  into  a  con- 
venient part  of  the  cushion  for  cutting  it  into 
the  size  of  the  pieces  required ;  breathe  gently 
on  tho  centre  of  the  leaf,  and  it  will  lay  fiat 
on  the  cushion  ;  then  cut  it  to  the  proper  sizo 
by  sawing  it  gently  with  the  knife  till  divided. 
Place  the  work  in  -a  position  nearly  horizon- 
tal, and,  with  a  long-haired  camcl's-hair  pencil 
dipped  in  water  (or  with  a  small  quantity  of 
brandy  in  the  water),  go  over  as  much  of  it  as 
the  piece  of  gold  is  to  coyer;  then  take  up 
the    gold  from    the    cushion  with  the   tip ; 
drawing  it  over  the  forehead  or  cheek  will 
damp  it  sufficiently  to  adhere  to  the  gold, 
which  must  then  carefully  be  transferred  to 
its  place  on  the  work,  and,  gently  breathing 
on  it,  it  will  adhere;  but  take  care  that  tho 
part  to  which  it  is  applied  is  sufficiently  wet ; 
indeed,  it  must  be  floating,  or  the  gold  will 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


323 


be  apt  to  crack.  Proceed  in  this  manner  by  a 
little  at  a  time,  and  do  not  attempt  to  cover 
too  much  at  once.  Be  careful,  in  proceeding 
with  the  work,  if  any  flaws  or  cracks  appear, 
to  take  a  corresponding  piece  of  gold,  and  ap- 


with  putty  powder,  till  it  is  smooth  as  glass. 
It  must  then  be  varnished  over  with  fine  lac 
varnish  several  times,  applying  a  slight  degree 
of  heat  after  each  coat.  This  may  be  done 
by  holding  a  hot  iron  near  it  till  the  varnish 


ply  it  immediately ;  sometimes,  also,  it  will  has  flowed  smooth  and  even  over  the  surface. 


be  necessary,  when  the  gold  does  not  appear 
to  adhere  sufficiently,  to  draw  a  pencil  quite 
filled  with  water  close  to  the  edge  of  the  gold, 
so  that  the  water  may  run  underneath  it. 

3566.  To  Burnish    Gold.     "When    the 
work  is  covered  with  gold,  set  it  by  to  dry ; 
it  will  be  ready  to  burnish  in  about  eight  or 
ten    hours;    but    this   will    depend    on    the 
warmth  of  the  room  or  state    of  the    air. 
"When  it  is  ready,  those  parts  which  are  to  be 
burnished  must  be  dusted  with  a  soft  brush, 
and,  wiping  the  burnisher  with  a  piece  of  soft 
wash-leather  (quite    dry),   begin  to  burnish 
about  an  inch  or  two  in  length  at  a  time,  tak- 
ing care  not  to    lean  too  hard,  but  with  a 
gentle  and  quick  motion  apply  the  tool  till  it 
is  equally  bright  all  over. 

3567.  Matting,  or  Dead  Gold. 


Those 


parts  of  the  work  which  look  dull  from  not 
being  burnished,  are  now  to  be  matted,  that 
is,  are  to  be  made  to  look  like  dead  gold ;  for 
if  left  in  its  natural  state  it  will  have  a  shi- 
ning appearance,  which  must  be  thus  rectified. 
Grind  some  vermilion,  or  yellow  ochre,  very 
fine,  and  mix  a  very  small  portion  either  with 
the  parchment  size  or  with  the  white  of  an 
egg,  and  with  a  very  soft  brush  lay  it  even 
and  smooth  on  the  parts  intended  to  look 
dull ;  if  well  done,  it  will  add  greatly  to  the 
beauty  of  the  work.  The  work  must  be  well 
cleared  of  superfluous  gold,  by  means  of  a  soft 
brush  (a  hat  brush  answers  the  purpose  well), 
previous  to  burnishing  or  matting. 

3568.  To  Finish  Gilding.     It  is  now 
only  necessary  to  touch  the  parts  in  the  hol- 
lows with  a  composition  made  by  -grinding 
vermilion,  gamboge,  and  red  lead,  very  fine, 
with  oil  of  turpentine,  and  applying  it  care- 
fully with  a  small  brush  in  the  parts  required, 
and  inserting  suitable  bits  of  gold  leaf  with  a 
camel's-hair  brush.     Sometimes  the  finishing 
is  done  by  means  of  shell-gold,  which  is  the 
best  method ;  it  should  be  diluted  with  gum- 
arabic,  and  applied  with  a  small  brush. 

3569.  To  Make  Shell- Gold.    Take  any 
quantity  of  leaf- gold,   and   grind  it,  with   a 
small  portion  of  honey,  to  a  fine  powder ;  add 
a  little  gum-arabic  and  sugar  candy,  with  a 
little  water,  and  mix  it  well  together ;  put  it 
in  a  shell  to  dry  until  wanted. 

3570.  Oil  Gilding  is  that  which  is  de- 
signed for  out-door  work,  to  stand  the  weather 
and  wash,  and  is  performed  with  oil  and  var- 
nish.    Where   the  object  is   to  give   a  high 
finish,  paint  the  work  with  a  color  composed 
of  the  finest  white  lead  and  yellow  ochre,  in 
such  proportions  that  the  color  shall  be  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  color  of  the  gold  to  be 
employed,  mixed  with  oil  (not  boiled),  and 
turpentine,    till  of   the    consistence   of   thin 
paint ;  this  to  be  laid  on  evenly,  and  allowed 
to  dry  thoroughly,  then  repeat  it  for  5  or  even 
more  coats,  till  it  is  perceived  that  the  grain 
or  roughness  of  the  object  to  be  gilt  is  entire- 
ly hidden.     When  the  last  coat  is  dry  it  must 
be  rubbed  perfectly  smooth,  first  with  pumice 
stone,   and  finished  with  a  piece  of  woolen 
cloth  and  finely  pounded  pumice ;  and  lastly, 


When  the  last  coat  of  varnish  is  quite  hard  it 
must  be  polished ;  this  is  done  by  putting  on 
a  horse-hair  glove,  and  rubbing  the  surface 
with  this  first,  then  with  Tripoli,  applied  with 
a  piece  of  wet  woolen  cloth ;  and  lastly,  by 
wet  putty  powder,  first  applied  with  woolen 
cloth,  then  with  the  bare  hand,  till  it  is  as 
bright  as  glass.  It  must  then  be  varnished 
over  with  a  thin  coat  (the  thinner  the  better) 
of  gold  size,  and  when  sufficiently  dry  the 
gold  is  to  be  applied,  beginning  at  the  part 
that  is  dryest.  When  gilt,  it  is  to  be  allowed 
to  remain  for  two  or  three  days,  and  then 
brushed  over  lightly  with  a  camel's-hair  brush 
to  remove  superfluous  gold.  It  is  next  to  be 
varnished  with  spirit  varnish,  applying  heat 
as  before,  then  varnished  with  copal  varnish 
two  or  three  times,  allowing  it  to  become 
perfectly  hard  between  each  coat ;  after  the 
last  coat  of  varnish  it  is  finished  by  polishing, 
first  with  Tripoli,  applied  with  a  soft  cloth  and 
water,  and  then  with  the  bare  hand  and  a  lit- 
tle oil,  and  wiped  dry. 

3571.  Oil  Size  for  Gilding.     Grind  cal- 
cined red  ochre  with  the  best  and  oldest  dry- 
ing oil,  and  mix  with  it  a  little  oil  of  turpen- 
tine when  used.     When  the  work  is  to  bo 
gilded,  first  give  it  a  coat  of  parchment  size ; 
then  apply  the  above  size  where  requisite, 
either  in  patterns  or  letters,  and  let  it  remain, 
till,  by  touching  it  with  the  finger,  it  feels 
just  sticky;  then  apply  the  gold  leaf,  and  dab 
it  on  with  a  piece  ol  cotton ;  in  about  an  hour 
wash  off  the  superfluous  gold  with   sponge 
and  water,    and  when  dry,  varnish  it  with 
copal  varnish. 

3572.  Water  Size.      Water    size  (for 
burnished  gilding)  is  parchment  size  ground 
with  yellow  ochre. 

3573.  To  Prevent  the  Adhesion  of 
Gold  Leaf.      Painters   and   decorators  will 
find  the  following  plan  a  good  one  to  simplify 
a  most  troublesome  part  of  their  work :  A 
small  piece    of  ball    liquorice,   dissolved  in 
water,  applied  with  a  flat  camel's-hair  brush 
to  the  place  intended  to  be  left  ungilt,  will 
prevent  the  leaf  adhering.     The  solution  must 
be  weak.     Made  thick  and  gummy,  it  is  very 
useful  to  protect  ornamental  parts  of  work 
that  is  to  bo  repainted. 

3574.  To  Gild  the  Edges  of  Books 
and  Paper.     The  gold  applied  to  the  edges 
of  books,  <fcc.,  is  in  the  same  state  as  for  va- 
rious  ornamental   purposes,   namely,    an  ex- 
tremely thin  leaf.     Before  the  case  or  cover 
of  the  book  is  quite  finished,  the  volume  is 
struck  forcibly  against  the  back,  so  as  to  make 
the  fore-edge  flat  instead  of  concave.    It  is 
then  placed  in  a  press,  with  the  exposed  edge 
uppermost.      The    edge    is    scraped    smooth 
with  a  piece  of  steel,  and  is  coated  with  a 
mixture  of  red  chalk  and  water.     The  gold  is 
blown  out  from  small  books,  and  spread  on  a 
leather  cushion,  where  it  is  cut  to  the  proper 
size  by  a  smooth-edged  knife.    A  camel's-hair 
pencil  is  dipped  into  white  of  egg  mixed  with 
water,  and  with  this  the  partially  dry  edge  of 
the  book  is  moistened  ;  the  gold  is  then  taken 


324: 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


up  on  a  tip  brush,  and  applied  to  the  moist- 
ened edge,  to  which  it  instantly  adheres. 
"When  all  the  three  edges  have  been  gilt  in 
this  way,  and  allowed  to  remain  a  very  few 
minutes,  take  a  burnisher  formed  of  a  very 
smooth  piece  of  hard  stone  (usually  blood- 
stone), and  rub  the  gold  very  forcibly, 
which  gives  the  gold  a  high  degree  of  polish. 

3575.  Gilding1  on  Glass.     Mix  powder- 
ed gold  (see  No.  2617)  with  thick  gum-arabic 
and  powdered  borax.     "With  this  trace  the  de- 
sign on  the  glass,  and  then  bake  it  in  a  hot 
oven.    Thus  the  gum  is  burnt,  and  the  borax 
is  vitrified,  at  the  same  time  the  gold  is  fixed 
on  the  glass. 

Monograms  and  names  may  thus  be  gilded 
on  glass  or  china. 

3576.  To  Gild  with   Dutch   Metal. 
The  imitation  of  gold  or  silver  leaf  known  as 
Dutch  metal  is  much  used  for  common  pur- 
poses.   The  article  to  be  gilded  is  prepared 
with  a  coating  of  oil  size,  on  which  the  metal 
is  laid.    The  sizing  is  not  allowed   to  dry 
quite  so  long  as  for  gold  or  silver  leaf;  the 
metal  being  laid  on  as  soon  as  the  size  has  set 
sufficiently  not  to  smear.    Metal  is  not  han- 
dled with  a  gilding  cushion  and  tip ;  but  the 
books,  with  the  metal  in  them,  are  cut  into 
pieces  of  the  requisite  shape,  with  a  pair  of 
shears  or  scissors,  and  the  metal  leaf  laid  on 
the  sizing  direct  from  the  portions  of  the 
book ;  after  which  it  is  pressed  close  by  means 
of  a  roller  covered  with  flannel,  and  finally 
brushed  over  the  same  as  gold  leaf,   being 
careful  to  brush  with  and  not  against  the 
overlap.  "White  Dutch  metal,  nicely  managed, 
and  flowed  over  with  shellac  spirit  varnish 
(colored  with  gamboge),  makes  a  very  good, 
cheap,  and  durable  substitute  for  gold  leaf. 

3577.  Grecian  Gilding.    Dissolve  equal 
parts  of  sal-ammoniac  and  corrosive  subli- 
mate in  nitric  acid,  and  a  solution  of  gold  is 
to  be  made  with  the  above  mixture  as  a  sol- 
vent; after  slight  concentration,  the  liquid  is 
applied  to  the  surface  of  silver,  which  im- 
mediately becomes  black,  but,  on  being  heat- 
ed, exhibits  a  rich  gilded  surface. 

3578.  Japanners'  Gilding.     The   sur- 
face is  covered  with  oil  size  thinned  with 
spirits  of  turpentine,   and  gold  in    powder 
(sec  No.  2517)  is  gently  dabbed  on  with  a  puff 
of  wash-leather.     This  gives  the  appearance 
of  frosted  gold.    A  coating  of  varnish  is  next 
given,  followed  by  a  gentle  heat  in  the  stove. 

3579.  Leaf  Gilding.  This  term  is 
commonly  applied  to  the  gilding  of  paper, 
vellum,  <fcc.,  by  applying  leaf  gold  to  the 
surface  previously  prepared  with  a  coating  of 
gum  water,  size,  or  white  of  egg.  It  may  be 
burnished  with  an  agate. 

3580.  To  Make  Oil  Gold  Size.     This 
is  usually  made  from  the   sediment  which 
collects  at  the  bottom  of  the  pot  or  dish  m 

'  which  painters  wash  their  brushes,  thoroughly 
ground  and  stained. 

3581.  Oil  Gilding.     The  surface  is  pre- 
pared or  primed  with  a  coat  of  white  lead 
in  drying  oil ;  then  follow  2,  3,  or  4  coats  of 
calcined  white  lead  ground  in  linseed  oil  and 
turpentine,  with  an  interval  of  at  least  24 
hours  between    each  coat,   which  must    be 
carefully  smoothed  off  with  pumice-stone  or 
shave  grass.     The  gold  size  (see  No.  3580)  is 
next  applied.    "When  the  gold  size  coat  is 


sufficiently  dry,  the  gold  leaf  is  applied  and 
pressed  on  with  a  wad  or  soft  brush.  After 
a  few  days  for  hardening,  a  coat  of  spirit  var- 
nish is  applied,  and  the  surface  passed  cautious- 
ly and  evenly  over  a  chafing  dish  of  charcoal. 
For  indoor  work,  it  is  finished  off  with  a  coat 
of  pale  oil  varnish. 

3582.  To  Gild  Poliphed  Metal.  Pol- 
ished silver,  copper,  brass,  <fec.,  may  be  gild- 
ed by  the  direct  application  of  gold  leaf  to 
the  surface  heated  to  a  bluish  tint,  pressing 
it  on  gently  and  carefully  with  the  burnisher. 
This  process  is  repeated  until  the  proper 
thickness  and  tone  is  attained.  Then  it  is 
polished  with  the  burnisher  and  colored  at  the 
stove. 

3583.  Gold  Tracing  on  Metal. 
"Writing  or  any  device  in  gold  may  be  made 
on  polished  steel  or  iron,  by  tracing  on  the 
surface  with  a  camel-hair  pencil,  using  an 
ethereal  solution  of  gold.  The  ether  evaporat- 
ing leaves  a  coating  of  gold,  which  may  then 
be  polished.  (See  No.  3585.) 

3584.  Water  Gilding.      This  process 
involves  several  distinct  operations,  and  can 
only  be  performed  successfully  by  those  who 
have  learned  the  art  practically. 

3585.  Ethereal  Solution  of  Gold  for 
Gilding  on   Steel.      This  process  answers 
equally  well  for  either  gold  or  platina.    Dis- 
solve any  quantity  of  gold  or  platina  in  nitro- 
muriatic  acid  (aqua  regia),  until  no  further 
effervescence  is  occasioned  by  the  application 

._. ,  of  heat.  (See  No.  3588.)  Evaporate  the 
the  solution  of  gold  or  platina,  thus  formed,  to 
dryness,  in  a  gentle  heat  (it  will  then  be  freed 
from  all  excess  of  acid,  which  is  essential), 
and  redissolve  the  dry  mass  in  as  little  .water 
as  possible;  next  take  a  separating  funnel 
or  pipette  (see  No.  0000),  fill  it  about  one- 
fourth  with  the  liquid,  and  the  other  three 
parts  must  be  filled  with  the  very  best  sul- 
phuric ether.  If  this  be  rightly  managed,  the 
two  liquids  will  not  mix.  Then  place  the 
tube  in  a  horizontal  position,  and  gently  turn 
it  round  with  the  finger  and  thumb.  The 
ether  will  very  soon  be  impregnated  with  the 
gold  or  platina,  which  may  be  known  by  its 
changing" its  color;  replace  it  in  a  perpendicu- 
lar position,  and  let  it  rest  for  24  hours, 
having  first  stopped  up  the  upper  orifice  frith 
a  cork.  The  liquid  will  then  be  divided  into 
two  parts — the  darkest  coloring  being  under- 
neath. To  separate  them,  take  out  the  cork 
and  let  the  dark  liquid  flow  put ;  when  it  has 
disappeared,  stop  the  tube  immediately  with 
the  cork,  and  what  remains  in  the  tube  is  fit 
for  use,  and  may  be  called  gilding  liquid. 
Let  it  be  put  into  a  bottle,  and  tightly  corked. 
The  muriate  of  gold  or  platiua,  formed  by 
digesting  these  metals  in  nitro-muriatic  acid, 
must  be  entirely  free  from  all  excess  of  acid, 
because  it  will  otherwise  act  too  forcibly  on 
the  steel,  and  cause  the  coating  of  gold  to 
peel  off.  Pure  gold  must  be  employed ;  the 
ether  must  not  be  shaken  with  the  muriate  of 
gold,  as  is  advised  by  some,  for  it  will  then 
be  sure  to  contain  acid ;  but  if  the  two 
liquids  be  brought  continually  into  contact  by 
the  motion  described,  the  affinity  between 
ether  and  gold  is  so  strong  as  to  overcome  the 
obstacle  of  gravity,  and  it  will  hold  the  gold 
in  solution.  The  ethereal  solution  may  also 
be  concentrated  by  gentle  evaporation. 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


3586.  To  Gild  Steel.     Pour  some  of 
the  ethereal  solution  of  gold  into  a  wine-glass, 
and  dip  into  it  the  blade  of  a  new  penknife, 
lancet,  or  razor;    withdraw  the  instrument, 
and  allow  the  ether  to  evaporate ;  the  blade 
will  then  be  found  covered  witk  a  beautiful 
coat  of  gold.     The  blade  may  be  moistened 
with  a  clean  rag,  or  a  small  piece  of  very  dry 
sponge  dipped  into  the  ether,  and  the  same 
effect  will  be  produced.     (See  No.  3585.) 

3587.  Elkington's  Patent,  or  Anglo- 
German  Gilding.     The  articles,  after  being 
perfectly  cleaned  from  scale  or  grease,  and 
receiving  a  proper  face,  are  to  be  suspended 
on  wires,  dipped  into  the  gilding  liquid  (see 
No.  3588)  boiling  hot,  and  moved  about  there- 
in, when,  in  from  a  few  seconds  to  a  minute, 
depending  on  the  newness  and   strength   of 
the  liquid,  the  requisite  coating  of  gold  will 
be  deposited  on  them.    By  a  little  practice 
the  time  to  withdraw  the  articles  is  readily 
known ;    the  duration  of  the  immersion  re- 
quired to  produce  any  given  effect  gradually 
increases    as    the    liquid    weakens    by   use. 
"When  properly  gilded,  the  articles  are  with- 
drawn from  the  solution  of  gold,  washed  in 
clean  water,  and  dried ;  after  which  they  un- 
dergo the  usual  operation  of  coloring,  <fcc.     A 
dead  appearance  is  produced  by  the  applica- 
tion to  the  articles  of  a  weak  solution  of 
nitrate  of  mercury  previously  to  the  immer- 
sion ;  or  the  deadening  may  be  given  by  ap- 
plying a  solution  of  the  nitrate  to  the  gilded 
surface  and  then  expelling  the  mercury  by 
heat. 

3588.  Elkington's    Patent    Gilding 
Liquid.     Fine  gold,  5  ounces  (troy);  uitro- 
muriatic  acid  (aqua  regia),  52  ounces  (avoir- 
dupois) ;    dissolve  by  heat,  and  continue  the 
heat  until  red  or  yellow  vapors  cease  to  be 
evolved ;  decant  the  clear  liquid  into  a  suita- 
ble vessel;    add  distilled  water,  4  gallons; 
pure  bicarbonate  of  potassa,  20  pounds ;  and 
boil  for  2  hours.     The  nitro-muriatic  acid  is 
made  with  pure  nitric  acid  (specific  gravity 
1.45),  21  ounces;  pure  muriatic  acid  (specific 
gravity  1.15),  17  ounces;  and  distilled  water, 
14  ounces. 

3589.  Gilding  by  Immersion.     Dis- 
solve teroxide  or  terchloride  of  gold  in  a  solu- 
tion of  pyrophosphate  of  soda,  and  dip  the 
article  to  be  gilt  in  it. 

3590.  Gilding  and  Silvering  by 
Amalgams.  For  these  processes  see  Nos. 
3532  to  3538. 

3591.  Gold  Plating    Powder.     Wash 
thoroughly  J  ounce  chloride  of  gold;   then 
add  it  to  a  solution  of  2  ounces  cyanide  of 
potassium  in  a    pint  of  clean    rain  water; 
shake  well,  and  let  it  stand  until  the  chloride 
is  dissolved.     Add  1  pound  prepared  Spanish 
whiting,  expose  to  the  air  till  dry,  and  then 
put  away  in  a  tight  vessel  for  use. 

3592.  To  Apply  Gold  Plating  Pow- 
der.    Make  some  gold  plating  powder  into  a 
paste  with  water,  and  rub  it  on  the  surface  of 
•the  article  with  a  piece  of  chamois  skin  or 
cotton    flannel.      The   surface  of  the   article 
should  be  thoroughly  cleansed  before  apply- 
ing the  platiug  powder. 

3593.  Gilding    Paste.      Metallic  sur- 
faces are  gilt  by  rubbing  on  the  following 
mixture  :    Terchloride  of  gold,  36  parts  ;  dis- 
solve in  pure  water,  36  parts,  and  mix  with 


a  solution  of  cyanide  of  potassium,  60  parts, 
in  nure  water,  "80  parts ;  shake  well,  and  set 
by  for  15  minutes,  then  filter.  This  liquid  is 
thickened  with  a  powder  composed  of  pre- 
pared chalk,  100  parts;  cream  of  tartar,  5 
parts. 

3594.  Fire  Gilding.     This  was  exten- 
sively done  before  the  discovery  of  the  art  of 
electroplating.      Many  a  piece  of  beautiful 
workmanship  has  come  down  to  us  from  an- 
cient Home  and  Greece,  gilded,  and  probably 
in  the  same  way  as  we  do  it  now,  under  the 
name  of  fire-gilding.     It  requires  more  gold, 
the  coating  being  thicker,  and  is  therefore  more 
expensive ;  but  it  will  last  longer,  and  is  the 
more  convenient  way  for  gilding  coins  and 
small  articles.      Clean  the    silver  piece,  by 
means  of  a  brush  and  a  little  ammonia  water, 
until  the  surface  is  evenly  bright  and  shows 
no  tarnish.    Take  a  small  piece  of  gold  and 
dissolve  it  in  about  4  times  its  volume  of  me- 
tallic mercury,  which  will  in  a  short  time  be 
accomplished  and  an  amalgam  formed.     (See 
Nos.  3533  and  3534.)  Put  a  little  of  this  amal- 
gam on  a  piece  of  dry  cloth,  and  rub  the  sil- 
ver piece  with  it  on  all  sides;  then  place  it  on 
a  clean  stone  in  a  furnace,  and  heat  to  the 
beginning  of  redness.    After  cooling  it  must 
be  cleaned  again  with  a  brush  and  a  little 
cream  of  tartar,  when  it  will  be  found  beauti- 
fully and  lastingly  gilded. 

3595.  To  Remove  the  Gilding  from 
Old  China.     The  following  method  id  recom- 
mended for  removing  the  remains  of  gilding 
from  old  china :  Take  soft  water,  8  parts  by 
measure ;  nitric  acid,  8  parts ;  common  salt,  4 
parts;  sal-ammoniac,  1  part.     Let  it  boil,  put 
the  china  into  it,  and  rub  with  a  stiff  brush. 

3596.  Wernicke's  Method  of  Gilding 
Glass.     The  following  are  the  ingredients  re- 
quired :   1st.      Solution  of  gold.    Pure  gold, 
free  from  silver,  is  dissolved  in  aqua  regia,  the 
solution  evaporated,  and  the  residue  taken  up 
with  water,   so  that  120  cubic   centimeters 
(1  gill)   contain  1   gramme   (15.4   grains)  of 
gold.     2d.  Solution  of  sodic  hydrate  (which 
need  not  be  absolutely  pure)  of  1.06  specific 
gravity.     3d.   Keduciug  liquid.    50  grammes 
(771^  grains)  sulphuric  acid  (monohydrate), 
40  grammes  (G17  grains)  alcohol,  35  grammes 
(53D  grains)  water,  and  50  grammes  powdered 
manganic    peroxide,    are    distilled    into    50 
grammes  of  water  until  the  bulk  of  the  latter 
is  doubled — 10  grammes   (154   grains)  cane- 
sugar,  inverted  by  dissolving  in  70  cubic  cen- 
timeters (-£$  gill)  water,  and  belling  with  k 
gramme,    (7-J-   grains)  nitric  acid  ot  specific 
gravity  1.34.     The  distilled  liquid,  the  invert- 
ed sugar,  and  100  cubic  centimeters  (T%  gill) 
alcohol  are  mixed  together,  and  the  mixture 
diluted  to  500  cubic  centimeters  (l-jV  pints). 
In  using  these  solutions,  1  volume  of  the  sodic 
hydrate  solution  is  mixed  with  4  volumes  of 
the  gold  solution,  and  to  this  mixture  is  added 
from   1.35  to   1.30  volume   of  the  reducing 
liquid.     The  object  to  be  gilded  is  placed  on 
the  top  of  the  solution,  having  the  surface  in- 
tended   to    be    coated    turned    downwards. 
The  temperature  of  the  bath  should  be  below 
140°  Fahr. 

3597.  Boettger's  Method  of  Gilding 
Glass.      Boettger  has  modified  Wernicke's 
process  for  throwing  down  gold  on  glass  as 
follows:   He  prepares  the  soda  solution  by 


326 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


dissolving  6  grammes  (92^  grains)  caustic 
soda  in  100  cubic  centimeters  (ffa  gill)  water; 
the  reducing  fluid,  to  be  made  when  washed, 
by  dissolving  2  grammes  (31  grains)  common 
starch-sugar  (glucose)  in  24  grammes  (370 
grains)  distilled  water,  and  adding  24  cubic 
centimeters  (£  gill)  alcohol  of  80  per  cent.,  24 
cubic  centimeters  aldehyde  of  .870  specific 
gravity  :  neutral  solution  of  chloride  of  gold, 
1  gramme  (15.4  grains)  of  gold  in  1,200  cubic 
centimeters  (2£  pints)  water.  Four  volumes 
of  the  gold  solution  are  mixed  in  a  suitable 
vessel  with  one  volume  soda  solution  and  1.16 
volumes  of  the  reducing  liquid,  and  the  liquid 
rapidly  poured  into  the  hollow  glass  globe  to 
be  plated.  Five  minutes  is  sufficient  to  insure 
the  deposit  of  a  thin  film  of  gold,  but  it  is  bet- 
ter to  allow  more  time.  Flat  plates  of  glass 
can  be  laid  upon  the  surface  of  the  liquid,  as 
in  the  silvering  process ;  the  surfaces  of  the 
glass  should  be  carefully  cleaned  with  soda 
and  alcohol,  and  not  with  acids.  The  greater 
part  of  the  gold  is  thrown  down  in  flocculi, 
and  can  be  recovered  for  subsequent  use — the 
amount  deposited  upon  the  glass  being  very 
small.  The  mirrors  are  to  be  well  washed 
and  dried  in  the  air.  "Where  the  baths  are 
heated,  the  deposition  of  gold  takes  place 
more  rapidly,  but  not  so  fine ;  it  is  better  to 
keep  the  temperature  below  140°  Fahr,  and 
to  allow  the  metal  coating  to  form  slowly. 
3598.  Upton's  Gold  Detergent. 
Quicklime,  1  ounce ;  sprinkle  with  a  little  hot 
water  to  slack  it,  then  gradually  add  1  pint 
boiling  water,  so  as  to  form  a  milk ;  dissolve  2 
ounces pearlash  in  1-J- pints  boiling  water;  mix 
the  two  solutions,  cover  up,  agitate  occasion- 
ally for  an  hour,  allow  it  to  settle,  decant  the 
clear,  put  it  into  fiat  half-pint  bottles,  and 
cork  them  down  well.  It  is  used  to  clean 
gilding,  &c.,  either  alone  or  diluted  with 
water.  It  is  applied  with  a  soft  sponge,  and 
then  washed  off  with  clean  water.  It  is  es- 
sentially a  weak  solution  of  potassa,  and  may 
be  extemporaneously  prepared  by  diluting 
liquor  of  potassa  with  about  5  times  its  volume 
of  water. 

3599.  Gruene's  Method  of  Gilding 
and  Silvering  Silk.  By  a  formula  publish- 
ed by  Gruene,  for  silvering  or  gilding  silk,  the 
silk  is  to  be  soaked  with  a  5  per  cent,  solu- 
tion of  iodide  of  potassium,  and  dried ;  then 
(in  non-actinic  light,  see  No.  3140),  dipped  in 
a  5  per  cent,  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver,  con- 
taining a  few  drops  of  nitric  acid,  and  well 
drained;  next  exposed  for  a  few  minutes  to 
sunlight,  and  then  dipped  in  a  2  per  cent,  so- 
lution of  sulphate  of  iron.  It  immediately  be- 
comes gray,  from  reduction  of  metallic  silver, 
and,  after  washing  and  drying,  only  requires 
burnishing  in  order  to  acquire  the  metallic 
lustre.  By  repeating  this  treatment,  varied, 
however,  by  adding  a  little  free  iodine  to  the 
solution  of  iodide  of  potassium,  the  silver  do- 
posit  becomes  stronger.  By  laying  the  silver- 
ed silk  in  a  very  weak  solution  of  chloride  of 
gold,  the  silver  becomes  chloride,  and  gold  is 
deposited ;  and  by  then  removing  the  chloride 
of  silver  by  a  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda, 
washing,  drying,  and  burnishing,  the  appear- 
ance of  gilding  is  produced,  if  the  deposit  of 
metal  be  sufficiently  thick.  The  purest  chem- 
icals must  bo  used  in  all  gilding  processes,  in 
order  to  secure  satisfactory  results. 


3600.  Silvering'  Powder.     Employed 
for  silver  coating  dial  plates,  statuettes,  and 
other  articles  of  copper,  and  covering  the  worn 
parts  of  plated  goods,  previously  well  cleaned, 
by  friction.    They  are  made  into  a  paste  with 
a  little  water,  for  use. 

3601.  To  Make    Silvering  Powder. 
Kub  together  to  a  fine  powder  20  grains  fine 
silver  dust  (see  No.  3217),  30  grains  alum,  1 
drachm  common  salt,  and  3  drachms  cream  of 
tartar ;  35  grains  of  nitrate  of  silver  may  be 
substituted  for  the  silver  dust.     Or :  Dissolve 
chloride  of  silver  in  a  solution  of  hyposulphite 
of  soda,  and  make  into  a  paste  with  levigated 
burnt  hartshorn  or  bone  dust ;  dry  and  pow- 
der it.     Or:  mix  1  ounce  silver  dust,  4  ounces 
each  of  common  salt  and  sal-ammoniac,  and 
J  ounce  corrosive  sublimate.   In  using  the  last, 
copper  utensils  are  previously  boiled  with  tar- 
tar and  alum,  and  rubbed  with  this  paste, 
then    made    red-hot,    afterwards     polished. 
Lastly :    A  good  silvering    powder  may   be 
made  as  follows :  dissolve  chloride  of  silver  in 
a  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda,  and  mix 
this  with  prepared  hartshorn  or  other  suitable 
powder. 

3602.  Novargent.     This  is  said  to  con- 
sist of  a  solution  of  fresh  precipitate  chloride 
of  silver  in  hyposulphite  of  soda  (or,  accord- 
ing to  the  Pharmaceutical  Journal,  of  oxide 
of   silver    in  cyanide   of   potassium),   mixed 
with  prepared  chalk. 

3603.  Silvering  Paste.     Nitrate  of  sil- 
ver, 1  part;  cyanide  of  potassium  (Liebig's),  3 
parts ;  water  sufficient  to  form  a  thick  paste. 
Apply  it  with  a  rag.    A  bath  for  the  same 
purpose  is  made  by  dissolving  100  parts  of 
sulphite  of  soda,  and  15  of  nitrate  of  silver, 
in  water,  and  dipping  the  article  to  be  silvered 
into  it. 

3604.  Silvering  Solution.     Prepare  a 
solution  of  1  part  cyanide  of  potassium  in  6 
parts  water ;  add  it  to  a  concentrated  aqueous 
solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  (free  from  acid) 
until  the  precipitate  is  redissolved.     Mix  this 
solution  with  fine  chalk,  and  apply  after  pre- 
vious cleaning  of  the  objects. 

3605.  Non-poisonous  Silvering  Fluid. 
Nitrate  of  silver,  80  parts;  dissolve  in  distilled 
water,  36  parts;  add  sal-ammoniac,  40  parts; 
hyposulphite  of  soda,  160  parts;  and  lastly, 
whiting,  160  parts.     Apply  in  the  usual  way. 

3606.  Silver  Plating  Fluid.     Dissolve 
1  ounce  crystals  of  nitrate  of  silver  in  12  oun- 
ces soft  water.     Then  dissolve  in  the  water  2 
ounces   cyanide    of   potassium.      Shake    the 
whole  together  and  let  it  stand  till  it  becomes 
clear.     Have  ready  some  half-ounce  phials, 
and  fill  them  half  full  of  Paris  white,  or  fine 
whiting,  and  then  fill  up  the  bottles  with  the 
liquid,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.      The  whiting 
docs  not  increase  the  coating  power ;  it  only 
helps  to  clean  the  articles,  and  to  save  the  sil- 
ver fluid  by  half  filling  the  bottles.     This  is 
the  preparation  commonly  vended  by  ped- 
dlers. 

3607.  Silver  Solution   for   Plating* 
Copper,  Brass,  and  German  Silver.     Cut 
into  small  pieces  a  twenty-five    cent  piece, 
and  put  it  into  an  earthen  vessel  with  £  ounce 
nitric  acid.     Put  the  vessel  into  warm  water, 
uncovered,  until  it  dissolves.     Add  i  gill  of 
water  and  1  tea-spoonful  of  fine  salt,  and  let  it 
settle.    Drain  off  and  repeat,  adding  water  to 


,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


327 


the  sediment  until  the  acid  taste  is  all  out  of 
the  water.  Add  finally  about  1  pint  of  \vater 
to  the  sediment,  and  4  scruples  cyanide  of  po- 
tassium. Put  into  the  solution  a  piece  of 
zinc  about  2  inches  long,  1  wide,  and  -J-  in 
thickness.  After  cleaning,  immerse  the  article 
to  be  plated  in  the  solution  about  half  a  min- 
ute, letting  it  rest  on  the  zinc.  "Wipe  off  with 
a  dry  cloth  and  repeat  once.  Polish  with 
buckskin.  The  thickness  of  plate  can  be  in- 
creased by  repeating. 

3608.  Silvering  Hooks  and  Eyes.  A 
patent  has  been  granted  in  Bavaria,  for  the 
following  method  of  silvering  hooks  and  eyes 
made  of  iron  ware.  The  articles,  are  suspend- 
ed in  dilute  sulphuric  acid  until  the  iron 
shows  a  clean  bright  surface.  After  rinsing 
in  pure  water,  they  are  placed  in  a  bath  of  a 
mixed  solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  sulphate  of 
copper  and  cyanide  of  potassium,  and  there 
remain  until  they  receive  a  bright  coating  of 
brass.  Lastly,  they  are  transferred  to  a  bath 
of  nitrate  of  "silver,  cyanide  of  potassium  and 
sulphate  of  soda,  in  which  they  quickly  receive 
a  coating  of  silver. 

3609.  To  Plate  Common  Copper 
Buttons.  Mix  2  ounces  chloride  of  silver,  1 
ounce  corrosive  sublimate,  3  pounds  table  salt, 
and  3  pounds  sulphate  of  zinc,  with  water,  into 
a  paste.  The  buttons  are  cleaned,  smeared 
over  with  the  mixture,  and  exposed  to  a  mod- 
erate degree  of  heat,  which  is  afterwards  raised 
nearly  to  redness,  to  expel  the  mercury  which 
has  united  with  the  silver  from  the  corrosive 
sublimate.  The  silvered  surface  is  then 
cleaned  and  burnished. 

3610.  Simple  Process  for  Silvering1. 
This  is  an  improved  process  for  silvering  cop- 
per, brass,  and  other  alloys,  by  means  of  a  so- 
lution of  silver  in  cyanide  of  potassium;  the 
diiference  from  the  usual  method  consists  in 
the  use  of  zinc-filings,  with  which  the  objects 
are  coated ;  when  the  silvering  solution  is  ap- 
plied,  an  immediate  deposition  of   a  much 
more  durable  character  taking  place.      The 
filings  are  easily  removed  by  rinsing  in  water, 
and  may  be  used  repeatedly  for  the  same  pur- 
pose.    Metallic  iron  may  be  coated  with  cop- 
per in  the  same  manner,  by  substituting  for 
the  silver  a  solution  of  copper  in  cyanide;  and 
over  this  copper  deposit  a  coating  of  silver 
may  be  applied. 

3611.  Cold    Silvering.      Mix    1    part 
chloride  of  silver  with  3  parts  pearlash,  Ik 
parts  common  salt,  and  1  part  whiting,  and 
rub   the   mixture  on  the  surface  of  brass  or 
copper  (previously  well  cleansed),  by  means 
of  a  piece  of  soft  leather  or  a  cork  moistened 
with  water  and  dipped  into  the  powder.     1 
part  precipitated  silver  powder,  mixed  with  2 
parts  each  cream  of  tartar  and  common  salt, 
may  also  be  used  in  the  same  way.     When 
properly  silvered,  the   metal  should  be  well 
washed  in  hot  water  slightly  alkalized,  and 
then  wiped  dry. 

3612.  Spencer's  Method  of  Silvering 
Wood.     The  first  operation  is  to  take  strong 
alcohol  or  spirits  of  turpentine  in  a  glass  ves- 
sel, and  add  to  it  a  piece  of  phosphorus  (a 
common  corked  phial  will  answer  the  pur- 
pose); the  vessel  must  now  be  placed  in  hot 
water  for  a  few  minutes,  and  occasionally 
shaken ;  by  this  means  the  alcohol  will  take 
about  3  per  cent,  of  its  bulk  of  phosphorus. 


N"ext  procure  a  weak  solution  of  nitrate  of 
silver,  place  it  in  a  flat  dish  or  saucer;  the  face 
of  the  wood  must  now  be  dipped  in  this  solu- 
tion, and  let  it  remain  a  few  minutes  to  allow 
capillary  attraction  to  draw  it  into  the  wood. 
This  operation  being  performed,  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  solution  of  phosphorus  must  be 
placed  in  a  capsule  or  watch-glass,  and  this 
placed  on  a  sand-bath,  that  it  may  gradually 
evaporate.  The  wood  must  now  be  held  with 
its  surface  over  the  vapor,  and  an  immediate 
change  takes  place ;  the  nitrate  of  silver  is  de- 
composed, and  gives  place  to  metallic  silver. 
"When  the  material  to  be  acted  on  is  not  very 
large,  fasten  it  to  the  top  of  a  bell-glass  re- 
ceiver with  a  bit  of  pitch  or  cement,  and  place 
this  over  the  capsule  on  the  sand-bath ;  the 
phosphorus  vapor  is  by  this  means  equally 
diffused,  and  not  dissipated.  A  solution  of 
phosphorus  in  sulphuric  ether  also  answers; 
and  a  solution  of  gold  (chloride)  may  be  used. 
This  elegant  process,  as  applied  to  wood  and 
those  substances  which  may  be  wetted  with 
the  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver,  answers  per- 
fectly; but  it  is  obviously  limited  in  its  appli- 
cation to  those  substances  which  will  absorb 
an  aqueous  solution. 

3613.  Silvering  Glass.  Two  distinct 
methods  are  adopted  for  this  purpose.  The 
one  falsely  called  silvering,  consists  of  the  ap- 
plication of  a  layer  of  an  amalgam  of  tin,  or 
similar  alloy,  to  the  surface  of  the  glass  (see 
No.  3614),  the  other  is  a  coating  of  real  sil- 
ver, precipitated  from  a  solution  of  that  metal. 
(See  Nos.  3615,  <?-c.) 

3614.  To  Silver  Looking-Glasses. 
This  is  usually  done  by  coating  the  glass  with 
an  amalgam.  For  this  purpose  a  large,  per- 
fectly flat  stone  table  is  provided ;  upon  it  is 
evenly  spread  a  sheet  of  tin  foil  without  crack 
or  flaw;  this  is  covered  uniformly  to  the' 
depth  of  -J-  inch  with  clean  mercury.  The 
plate  of  glass,  perfectly  cleansed  from  all 
grease  and  impurity,  is  floated  on  to  the  mer- 
cury carefully,  so  as  to  exclude  all  air  bubbles. 
It  is  then  pressed  down  by  loading  it  with 
weights  in  order  to  press  out  all  the  mercury 
which  remains  fluid,  which  is  received  in  a 
gutter  around  the  stone.  After  about  24 
hours  it  is  raised  gently  upon  its  edge,  and  in 
a  few  weeks  it  is  ready  to  frame.  It  is  said 
to  be  desirable  to  have  the  lower  end  of  the 
glass,  from  which  the  mercury  was  drained, 
at  the  bottom  of  the  frame.  To  convex  and 
concave  mirrors  the  amalgamated  foil  is  ap- 
plied by  means  of  accurately  fitting  plaster 
moulds.  The  interior  of  globes  is  silvered  by 
introducing  a  liquid  'amalgam,  and  turning 
about  the  globe  till  every  part  is  covered 
with  it,  (See  Nos.  3538  and  3545.) 

3615.  To  Silver  Glass.  An  easy  and 
economical  process.  Mix  90  parts  by  measure 
of  a  solution  of  Rochelle  salts  at  1.50  specific 
gravity,  with  900  parts  distilled  water,  and 
boil  them  in  a  flask ;  drop  in  carefully  20  parts 
of  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  specific  grav- 
ity 1.18,  and  boil  again.  This  solution  can 
be  bottled  and  kept  for  any  length  of  time. 
Another  fluid  has  to  be  prepared  by  adding 
ammonia  to  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver 
until  the  precipitate  is  entirely  dissolved ;  fil- 
tering and  diluting  1  part  of  it  with  100  parts 
of  water.  For  use,  put  equal  parts  of  the  two 
preparations  in  a  suitable  vessel,  clean  the 


328 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


glass  well  (see  No.  3621),  and  immerse  it  in 
the  mixture  until  sufficiently  coated.  The 
coating  of  silver  should  be  protected  -with  a 
coat  of  lac  varnish. 

3616.  Drayton's  Process  for  Silvering 
Glass.     Mr.  Drayton  mixes  1  ounce  nitrate 
of  silver,  3  ounces  water,  1  ounce  liquid  am- 
monia, and  3  ounces  spirit  of  wine,  and  filters 
the  solution  after  it  has  stood  3  or  4  hours. 
To  every  ounce  of  the  solution  he  adds  £ 
ounce  sugar  (grape  sugar  if  possible),  dissolv- 
ed in  equal  quantities  of  water  and  alcohol. 
The  surface  to  be  silvered  is  covered  with  this 
liquid  at  a  temperature  of  160°  Fahr.,  main- 
tained till  the  deposition  of  silver  is  complete. 
When  quite  dry,  the  coated  surface  is  covered 
with  mastic  varnish.     Other  substances  be- 
sides sugar  occasion  the  deposition  of  silver 
from  the  ammoniacal  solution ;  as  oil  of  cas- 
sia, oil  of  cloves,  and  oth*er  essential  oils,  al- 
dehyde, <fec.    Unger  recommends  a  strong  al- 
coholic solution  of  tannin.     He  had  accident- 
ally mixed  in  a  dish  a  small  quantity  of  a 
thick  alcoholic   solution   of  tannin  with   an 
equally  small  quantity  of  a  strong  solution  of 
nitrate  of  silver ;  and  in  the  course  of  a  short 
time  he  found  the  dish  coated  with  a  thin, 
brilliant,  and  uniform  layer  of  metallic  silver. 
He  directly  repeated  the  experiment,  and  met 
with  the  same  result  again  and  again.     He 
next  proceeded  to  evaporate  the  liquid  to  dry- 
ness  by  placing  the  dish  on  the  surface  of 
•warm  sand.    As  soon  as  it  was  completely 
dry,  the  coating  was  found  to  be  so  fast  on 
the  porcelain  that  it  required  the  point  of  a 
sharp  penknife  to  scrape  it  off.     He  also  suc- 
ceeded in  producing  a  brilliant  metallic  coat- 
ing from  a  saturated  solution  of  sulphate  of 
copper  by  the  same  solution  of  tannin. 

3617.  Pettijean's  Process  of  Silver- 
ing Glass.     Two  solutions  are  to  be  pre- 
pared.   The  first  is  composed  of  26k  drachms 
nitrate   of    silver  and   2  ounces    aqua  am- 
monia, dissolved  in  1  pint  of  distilled  water. 
After  filtration  this  liquor  is  diluted  with  16 
times  its  volume  of  distilled  water,  and,  drop 
by  drop,  a  solution  of  116J  grains  of  tartaric 
acid  is  added. 

The  second  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner, 
but  with  a  double  quantity  of  tartaric  acid. 
As  these  solutions  are  rapidly  reduced,  pre- 
pare in  the  morning  the  liquors  to  be  used 
during  the  day.  Before  silvering,  the  glass  is 
perfectly  cleaned,  first  with  chalk  and  a  fine 
cloth,  then  with  a  bung  and  a  little  of  the 
first  solution.  It  is  then  rubbed  dry  with  a 
piece  of  chamois  leather.  (See  No.  3621.) 
The  glass,  laid  horizontally  upon  a  table  of 
cast  iron,  at  a  perfect  level,  is  heated  (by 
means  of  a  cast  iron  water- bath  beneath)  to 
113°  Fahr.,  an  India-rubber  roller  dipped  in 
distilled  water  is  next  passed  over  its  surface, 
and  then  its  surface  is  covered  with  K"o.  1 
solution.  The  deposit  of  silver  commences 
in  about  10  minutes,  and  is  completed  in 
about  15  minutes  afterwards.  The  glass  is 
then  tilted  up  so  as  to  allow  the  liquor  to  run 
off,  and  rinsed  with  water  rather  more  than 
lukewarm  to  carry  away  the  non-adherent 
powder.  It  is  then  restored  to  its  horizontal 
position  and  covered  with  solution  No.  2. 
In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  the  deposit  is  com- 
pleted. The  next  thing  is  to  wash  the  plate 
as  before,  and  dry  it,  after  which  it  only  re- 


mains to  polish  and  burnish  the  film  of  silver 
deposited,  in  order  to  make  it  perfectly 
smooth,  and  give  closeness  to  the  grain.  To 
cover  a  three-feet  square  of  glass  requires  5 
pints  of  liquor.  The  deposit  is,  therefore, 
about  1^  drachms  to  every  9  square  feet.  To 
preserve  the  coating  of  silver  from  sulphura- 
tion  and  rubbing,  it  is  covered  with  a  paint 
made  with  1  pound  of  lead  pigment,  1-j- 
ounces  of  drying  oil,  and  5i  ounces  of  spirits 
of  turpentine.  Liebig  has  produced  the  same 
result  by  depositing  on  the  silver  a  coating  of 
galvano-plastic  copper,  but  the  advantages 
resulting  from  the  greatest  solidity  of  the 
deposit  scarcely  compensate  for  the  practical 
inconveniences  of  the  process. 

3618.  To  Silver  Specula  and  Other 
Glass    Surfaces.     Make  a  solution  of  am- 
rnonio-nitrate   of  silver,   of   the   strength  of 
three  grains  to  the  ounce.     Eender  it  very 
slightly  turbid  by  excess  of  nitrate  of  silver, 
and  then  filter  it.     Just  before  using,  add  to 
each  ounce  of  the  foregoing  solution  2£  grains 
of    Rochello    salts.      Having    scrupulously 
cleaned    the  glass  intended    to  be  silvered 
(see  No.  3621),  place  it  in  a  convenient  vessel 
about  one  inch  from  the  bottom,  supported 
on  three  little   cones  of  white   wax.      The 
glass  plate  may  be  suspended;    but  in  that 
case  there  is  more  difficulty  in  avoiding  vibra- 
tion, the  absence  of  which  is  essential  to 
success.     Expose  to  a  northern  light,  or  any 
other  subdued  light,  and  in  about  two  hours 
the    deposit  'of    silver  will    be    sufficiently 
thick.     It  must  now  be   carefully  removed, 
washed,  and  dried.     When  the  surface  next 
the  glass  is  to  be  used  as  the  reflector,  the 
glass  side  should  be  cleaned  by  nitric  acid  if 
the  state  of  its  surface,  after  the  silvering,  so 
require ;  and  the  silvered  side  should  receive 
a  protecting  coating  of  a  good  tough  black 
varnish. 

3619.  Liebig's  Process  for  Silvering 
Glass    Mirrors.     The  process  of  silvering 
glass   generally  rests    on    the    reduction    of 
metallic  silver  from  a  solution  by  means  of 
glucose  or  some  other  organic  substance.     By 
Liebig's  method  the  deposit  of  silver  is  pro- 
duced by  the  action  of  a  mixture  consisting  of 
GO  parts  by  measure  of  a  silver  solution,  and 
10  parts  of  a  reducing  solution,  this  latter 
previously  diluted  with  250  to  300  pails  wa- 
ter.    The  components  of  the  silver  solution 
are:  140  parts  of  a  solution  containing  10  per 
cent,  of  nitrate  of  silver ;  100  parts  cf  a  solu- 
tion of  nitrate  of  ammonia  (free  from  chlorine) 
of  1.115  specific  gravity  (or  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  ammonia  of  specific  gravity  1.105- 
1.106;)  lastly,  750  parts  of  caustic  soda  lye  of 
specific  gravity  1.050.      In  case  sulphate  of 
ammonia  is  used,  its  solution  must  bo  added 
to  the  silver  solution,  not  as  in  the  case  of 
nitrate.     The  reducing  solution  consists  of  1 
part  by  measure  of  sugar,  liquor  and  1  part 
of  copper  liquor.    ' 

The  sugar  liquor  is  prepared  by  dissolving 
50  grammes  (771  i  grains)  white  sugar  in  wa- 
ter to  a  thin  syrup,  kept  for  1  hour  at  a  boil- 
ing heat  with  3/tf  grammes  (48  grains)  tartaric 
acid  ;  the  solution  is  then  diluted  to  measure 
500  cubic  centimeters  (I  fa  pints). 

The  copper  liquor  consists  of  a  solution  of 
2-fW'T  grammes  (44  grains)  dry  tartrate  of 
copper  in  water,  by  the  aid  of  a  caustic  soda 


GILDING,    SILVERING.    ETC. 


329 


solution  added  by  drops  until  the  blue  salt  is 
dissolved;  the  whole  is  then  diluted  with 
•water  to  measure  500  cubic  centimeters  (l-j^ 
pints). 

The  glasses  to  be  silvered,  if  for  mirrors, 
are  placed  upright  on  their  edge  in  the  silver- 
ing tank  and  held  together  in  pairs  by  clamps; 
when  for  optical  purposes,  they  are  held  in  a 
horizontal  position,  just  touching  the  surface 
of  the  fluid.  In  cold  seasons  the  temperature 
must  be  kept  at  68°  to  84°  Fahr.  The 
quantity  of  silver  necessary  for  a  square  yard 
of  surface  is  from  46  to  54  grains. 

3620.  Bird's   Process   for   Silvering 
Mirrors  or  Specula.     The  mirror  or  specu- 
lum to  be  silvered  is  first  cleaned  (see  No. 
3621),  and  then  suspended,  face  downwards, 
in  a  silver  bath  prepared  thus:   A  large  flat 
shallow  vessel  of  glass  or  porcelain  is  provided, 
to  contain  the  solution.     750  grains  nitrate  of 
silver  are  dissolved  in  6  ounces  distilled  wa- 
ter, and  to  this  is  added  pure  liquid  ammonia, 
drop  by  drop,  until  the  precipitate  which  is 
thrown  down  is  redissolved.    2  ounces  caustic 
potash  are  dissolved  in  50  ounces,  bv  measure, 
of  rain  water;  and  15  ounces  of  this  solution 
are  added  to  the  ammoniacal  solution,  when 
a  brown-black  precipitate  will  be  produced. 
Ammonia  is  again  added,  drop  by  drop,  until 
this  precipitate  is  just  redissolved ;    and  29 
ounces  of  distilled  water  are  then  added  to 
the  whole.     To  this  mixture  is  again  added, 
drop   by  drop,   stirring  with   a  glass  rod, .a 
strong  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver,  until  a 
precipitate,  which  does  not  redissolve,  begins 
to  be  formed.     Previous  to  immersing  the 
speculum,   1  part,   by  weight,  of  powdered 
milk  sugar  to  10  parts,  by  measure,  of  distilled 
water,  must  be  prepared  in  a  separate  vessel, 
and  filtered  until  a  clear  solution  is  obtained. 
Then,  to  10  parts,  by  measure,  of  the  silvering 
solution,  must  be  added  1  part,  by  measure,  of 
the    milk    sugar    solution,   and,    finally,  50 
ounces   of   the   compound   solution  will    be 
sufficient  to  silver  a  speculum  9  inches  in  dia- 
meter.    To  facilitate  'the  suspending,  a  circu- 
lar block  of  wood  is  very  firmly  cemented  to 
the  back  of  the  speculum  with  marine  glue  or 
pitch,  and  three  pins  inserted  at  equal  dis- 
tances round  the  margin,  to  which  strings 
may  be  fastened.     On  lowering  it  into  the 
bath,  care  must  be  taken  that  no  air  bubbles 
intervene,  that  the  speculum  be  not  deeper  in 
the  liquid  than  half  its  thickness,  and  that  a 
depth  of  2  inches,  at  least,  intervene  between 
the  face  of  the  speculum  and  the  bottom  of 
the  vessel.     In  10  minutes  after  immersion  a 
metallic  film   will   be   seen  forming  on  the 
glass,  and  in  an  hour  or  two  a  compact  silver 
coating  will  be  laid  over  the  whole  surface. 
The  speculum  should  remain  in  the  bath  for 
4  hours,  by  which  time  the  process  is  com- 
pleted ;  it  is  then  carefully  removed,  copious- 
ly washed  with  distilled  water,  and  placed  on 
its  edge  to  dry.     It  is  then'ready  for  polishing. 
(See  No.  362'2.) 

3621.  To  Clean  the  Surface  of  Glass 
for  Silvering.     As  the  success  of  the  silver- 
ing process  depends  greatly  on  the  glass  sur- 
face being  made  chemically  clean  previous  to 
immersion  in  the  bath,  the  utmost  pains  must 
be  taken  to  accomplish  this  object.    The  sur- 
face is  first  covered  with  thick  whiting  cream, 
free  from  grit,  which,  when  dry,  ia  rubbed  off 


with  the  purest  cotton  wool.  The  surface  is 
then  wetted  entirely  with  dilute  nitric  acid, 
and  afterwards  thoroughly  washed  with  dis- 
tilled water  poured  over  it ;  and,  last  of  all, 
the  piece  of  coated  glass  is  suspended  in  a 
flat  vessel  containing  alcohol,  where  it  re- 
mains until  the  bath  is  ready  to  receive  it. 

3622.  To  Polish  a-  Silvered  Surface 
on  Glass.     To  accomplish  this,  rub  the  sur- 
face gently,  first  with  a  clean  pad  of  fine  cot- 
ton wool,  and  afterwards  with  a  similar  pad 
covered  over  with  cotton  velvet,  which  has 
been  charged  with  fine  rouge.    The  surface 
will,  under  this  treatment,  acquire  a  polish  of 
intense  brilliancy,  quite  free  from  any  scratches. 

3623.  To  Silver  Glass  for  the  Reflec- 
tors of  Telescopes.     The  solutions  employ- 
ed are  four  in  number,  and  they  require  some 
cai'e  in  their  first  preparation ;  but  once  made 
they  are  always  ready,  and  can  be  used  with 
great  rapidity  and  certainty  for  depositing  a 
lustrous,   mirror-like  surface  of  silver  on  a 
piece  of  glass  of  any  desired  shape  or  curva- 
ture:— 

Solution  No.  1  is  prepared  by  dissolving  1 
part,  by  weight,  of  nitrate  of  silver,  in  10  parts 
of  distilled  water. 

Solution  No.  2  consists  of  an  aqueous  solu- 
tion of.  pure  ammonia,  having  a  density  of 
13.3°  Baume'. 

Solution  No.  3  consists  of  4  parts  of  pure 
caustic  soda  in  100  of  distilled  water. 

Solution  No.  4  is  made  by  dissolving  12£ 
parts  of  the  best  white  loaf  sugar  in  100  parts 
distilled  water.  To  this  add  1  part,  by  mea- 
sure, of  nitric  acid,  boil  for  20  minutes,  in 
order  to  invert  or  alter  the  molecular  arrange- 
ment of  the  particles  of  the  sugar,  and  then 
add  water  to  increase  the  volume  to  500  parts 
by  measure,  and  finally  add  50  parts  alcohol. 

These  solutions  will  remain  unchanged  for 
a  long  time.  When  required  for  use,  prepare 
a  silvering  liquid  by  pouring  into  a  flask  12 
parts,  by  measure,  of  the  silver  solution,  No. 
1 ;  8  parts,  by  measure,  of  the  ammoniacal  so- 
lution, No.  2 ;  then  20  parts  of  the  soda  solu- 
tion, No.  3;  and,  lastly,  add  60  parts  of  distill- 
ed water,  in  order  to  make  up  the  volume  to 
100.  If  the  proportions  have  been  properly 
observed,  the  liquid  so  prepared  will  be  per- 
fectly clear,  but  will  be  rendered  turbid  by  the 
smallest  addition  of  nitrate  of  silver  solution. 
It  must  be  allowed  to  remain  without  disturb- 
ance for  24  hours,  to  permit  the  floating  par- 
ticles to  settle.  The  clear  liquid  decanted 
from  the  sediment  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 
The  surface  of  the  glass  which  has  to  be 
silvered  must  be  well  cleaned  with  a  tuft  of 
cotton  and  a  few  drops  of  nitric  acid,  and  then 
washed  with  distilled  water.  (See  No.  3621.) 
Drain  it,  and  support  it  on  the  surface  of  the 
silvering  bath,  which  is  composed  of  the  above 
described  silvering  liquid,  with  the  addition  of 
Tff  or  iV  its  volume  of  the  sugar  solution, 
No.  4.  The  surface  to  be  silvered,  should,  by 
preference,  bo  at  the  upper  part  of  the  liquid, 
so  that  the  silver  may  be  deposited  on  it  from 
below  upward.  There  are  two  advantages  in 
this — first,  the  deposit  is  finer  and  more  even: 
and,  second,  there  is  no  danger  of  floating 
particles  of  dust  settling  on  the  surface.  It 
is,  however,  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that 
silver  will  be  deposited  upon  every  part  of  the 
glass  which  is  under  the  surface  of  the  liquid, 


330 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


as  well  as  upon  the  sides  and  bottom '  of  the  j  put  in  a  closely   stoppered  bottle  until  the 
vessel ;  so  that,  as  a  matter  of  economy,  as  moment  of  using. 


little  as  possible  of  the  back  of  the  glass 
should  be  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  liquid. 
The  action  seems  to  be  more  rapid  in  the 
light  than  in  darkness.  Under  the  influence 
of  diffused  light  the  liquid  becomes  yellow, 
then  brown,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  whole 
of  the  exposed  surface  of  the  glass  will  be 
covered  with  a  fine  deposit  of  silver.  In 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  the  thickness  of 
the  metallic  coating  will  be  Sufficient  to  bear 
the  subsequent  operations  without  injury ;  it 
must  then  be  washed  with  plenty  of  water, 
and  rested  by  one  corner  on  several  thick- 
nesses of  blotting-paper  to  dry  spontaneously. 
The  surface  will  now  be  covered  with  a  thin 
whitish  veil,  which  may  be  readily  removed 
by  gentle  friction  with  chamois  leather;  it 
may  afterwards  be  polished  with  jewelers' 
rouge,  when  a  perfectly  brilliant  surface  will 
be  produced.  (See  No.  3622.) 

3624.  To  Repair   the  Silvering   of 
Looking-Glasses.     The  repairing  of  the  sil- 
vering on  the  backs  of  looking-glasses  has 
hitherto    been    considered    a   very    difficult 
operation.    A  new  and  very  simple  method, 
however,  has  been  described  before  the  Poly- 
technic Society  of  Leipsic.    It  is  as  follows  : 
Clean  the  bare  portion  of  the  glass  by  rubbing 
it  gently  with  fine  cotton,  taking  care  to  re- 
move any  trace  of  dust  and  grease.     If  this 
cleaning  be  not  done  very  carefully,  defects 
will  appear  around  the  place  repaired.     "With 
the  point  of  your  knife  cut  upon  the  back  of 
another  looking-glass  around  a  portion  of  the 
silvering  of  the   required  form,  but   a  little 
larger.    Upon  it  place  a  small  drop  of  mer- 
cury ;  a  drop  the  size  of  a  pin's  head  will  be 
sufficient  for  a  surface  equal  to  the  size  of  the 
nail.     The  mercury  spreads  immediately,  pen- 
etrates the  amalgam  to  where  it  was  cut  off 
with  the  knife,  and  the  required  piece  may 
now  be  lifted  and  removed  to  the  place  to  be 
repaired.    This  is  the  most  difficult  part  of  the 
operation.     Then  press  lightly  the  renewed 
portion  with  cotton ;  it  hardens  almost  imme- 
diately, and  the  glass  presents  the  same  ap- 
pearance as  a  new  one. 

3625.  To  Repair  a  Damaged  Mirror. 
Pour  upon  a  sheet  of  tin  foil  about  3  drachms 
of  quicksilver  to  the  square  foot  of  foil.    Rub 
smartly  with  a  piece  of  buckskin  until  the  foil 
becomes  brilliant.    Lay  the  glass  upon  a  flat 
table,  face  downwards ;  place  the  foil  upon 
the  damaged  portion  of  the  glass ;  lay  a  sheet 
of  paper  over  the  foil,  and  place  upon  it  a 
block  of  wood  or  a  piece  of  marble  with  a 
perfectly  flat  surface;  put  upon  it  sufficient 
weight  to  press  it  down  tight ;  let  it  remain 
in  this  position  a  few  hours.    The  foil  will 
adhere  to  the  glass. 

3626.  Process  for  Silvering  Animal, 
Vegetable,  or  Mineral  Substances.    This 
process  is  founded  upon  the  electro-chemical 
action  exercised  by  certain  liquors  in  which 
the  objects  to  be  silvered  are  plunged.    The 
method  of  preparing  these  liquors  is  as  fol- 
lows: 

Liquor  No.  1. — Take  2  parts  by  weight  of 
caustic  lime,  5  of  sugar  of  milk  or  grape 
sugar,  2  of  gallic  acid,  and  make  of  them  a 
mixture  in  650  parts  of  distilled  water ;  filter, 
protect  from  the  air  as  much  as  possible,  and 


Liquor  No.  2.  —  Dissolve  20  parts  nitrate  of 
silver  in  20  parts  solution  of  ammonia,  and 
add  to  this  solution  650  parts  distilled  water. 
When  it  is  intended  to  operate,  the  two  pre- 
ceding liquors  are  mixed  in  equal  quantities, 
and,  after  having  been  well  agitated,  filtered. 
As  the  solution  of  ammonia  of  commerce  has 
not  always  the  same  degree  of  concentration, 
it  would  be  better,  perhaps,  to  dissolve  the 
nitrate  of  silver  destined  for  the  liquor  No.  2, 
first  in  distilled  water,  then  mix  the  solution 
with  liquor  No.  1,  and  then  add  ammonia  in 
quantity  only  just  sufficient  to  entirely  clear 
the  mixture.  The  deposition  of  silver  can  be 
accelerated  by  the  employment  of  heat;  in 
this  case,  the  temperature  depends  upon  the 
nature  of  the  objects  to  be  submitted  to  the 
operation.  The  method  of  employing  the 
above  liquors  in  silvering  the  surfaces  of  dif- 
ferent materials  is  given  in  the  following  six 
receipts: 

3627.  To  Silver  Silk,  Woolen,  Cotton, 
Etc.     When  it  is  intended  to  silver    silk, 
woolen,  cotton,  etc.,  commence  by  washing 
the  substance  clean  ;  this  clone,  immerse  it  for 
a  moment  in  the  saturated  solution  of  gallic 
acid;    then  withdraw  it  to  plunge   it  for  a 
second  in  another  solution  composed  of  20 
parts  nitrate  of  silver  to  1000  parts  distilled 
water.     These  alternate  immersions  are  con- 
tinued, until  the  substance  from  being  dark 
becomes  of  a  brilliant  tint;   after  that  it  is 
plunged  in  a  bath  composed  of  a  mixture  of 
the  two  liquors,  Nos.  1  and  2.     (See  No.  3626.) 
When  it  is  completely  silvered,  it  is  withdrawn 
and  boiled  in  a  solution  of  salt  of  tartar  (car- 
bonate of  potassa)in  water,  and  there  remains 
nothing  more  to  be  done  but  a  last  washiug 
and  drying. 

3628.  To  Silver  Bone,  Horn,  Paper, 
Etc.     Bone,  horn,  wood,  paper,  etc.,  are  sil- 
vered in  the  same  way  (see  No.  3627)  with 
this  difference,  however,  that,  in  the  place  of 
the  alternate  immersions  above  indicated,  the 
objects  to  be  silvered  are  operated  upon  with 
a  brush  or  pencil  dipped  alternately  in  the 
gallic  acid  solution  and  in  that  of  nitrate  of 
silver.     The  silvered  surfaces  are  then  washed 
with  distilled  water,  dried  by  free  air  and 
heat. 

3629.  To  Silver  Leather.     For  leather 
tanned  with  sumach,  in  the  place  of  nitrate  of 
silver  (see  No.  3627)  the  chloride  mixed  with  a 
few  drops  of  rosemary  oil  may  be  employed 
with    advantage.      The    silvered    surface    is 
then  washed  and  dried  as  directed  in  last  re- 
ceipt. 

3630.  To  Silver  Stucco  and  Pottery. 
Stucco  and  pottery  may  be  silvered  by  the 
same  process  as  No.  3628,  but  before  being 
submitted  to   the  operation   they  should  be 
covered  with  a  coat  of  stearine  or  varnish. 

3631.  To  Silver  Glass,   Crystal,  or 
Porcelain.     To  silver  glass,  crj-stal,  or  porce- 
lain, commence  by  washing  thoroughly  (see 
No.  3621)  the  object  with  distilled  water,  and 
with  alcohol,  and  then  operate  as  has  been 
said  with  the  mixture.     (See  No.  3626.)     Ob- 
jects with  a  plane  surface  should  be  placed  in 
a  horizontal  position,  and  the  liquor  poured 


upon  them.     (See  Nos.   3618, 


When 


mirrors  are  to  be  silvered,  the  plates  of  glass 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


331 


may  be  disposed  in  a  vertical  position ;  place 
them  two  and  two  face  against  face,  in  troughs 
of  gutta  perch  a,  taking  care  to  prevent  all 
contact  with  the  sides ;  then  fill  with  the  li- 
quid. Precipitation  of  silver  commences  in  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  and  at  the  end  of  a  few 
hours  the  operation  is  finished.  "When  dry, 
coat  the  silvered  surface  with  varnish. 

3632.  To  Silver  the  Metals.     Com- 
mence by  cleansing  them  with  nitric  acid; 
rub  them  afterwards  with  a  mixture  of  cyan- 
ide of  potassium  and  powdered  silver ;  then, 
after  washing  with  water,  they  are  plunged 
alternately  into  the  liquors  Nos.  1  and  2  (see 
No.  3626),  until  they  appear  sufficiently  sil- 
vered.    If  working  with  iron,  it  should  be 
first  immersed  in  a  solution  of  sulphate  of 
copper.     The  process    which  has    been  de- 
scribed presents  above  all  others  the  advan- 
tage of  very  solid  results,  and  of  employing 
chemical  agents  of  low  price. 

3633.  To  Coat   Copper  Plates  with 
Brass.     Expose  the  plates,  heated  sufficient- 
ly, to   the  fumes  of  zinc.    Zinc  boils  and  is 
vaporized  by  heating  it  to  a  white  heat. 

3634.  To  Coat  the  Inside  of  Copper 
Vessels  with  Brass.     Dissolve  1  part  zinc 
amalgam  (see  No.  3539)  in  2  parts  muriatic 
acid  ;  add  1  part  argol  (crude  tartar),  and  add 
sufficient  water  to  fill  the  vessel ;  then  boil  it 
in  the  vessel. 

3635.  To  Deposit  Copper  upon  Cast 
Iron.       The    pieces    of  cast  iron  are  first 
placed  in   a  bath  made   of  50  parts  hydro- 
chloric  acid,    specific  gravity    1.105,   and    1 
part  nitric  acid ;  next,  in  a  second  bath,  com- 
posed  of  10  parts  nitric   acid,   10  parts    of 
chloride  of  copper,  dissolved  in  80  parts  of  the 
same  hydrochloric  acid  as  just  alluded  to. 
The  objects  are  rubbed  with  a  woolen  rag  and 
a  soft  brush,  next  washed  with  water,  and 
again  immersed  until  the  desired  thickness  of 
copper  is  deposited.    "When  it  is  desired  to 
give  the  appearance  of  bronze,  the  copper  sur- 
face is  rubbed  with  a  mixture  of  4  parts  sal- 
ammoniac  and  1  part  each  oxalic  and  acetic 
acids  dissolved  in  30  parts  water. 

3636.  Graeger's  Process  for  Covering 
Iron  and  Steel  with  Copper  without  a 
Battery.     The  objects  are  first  well  cleaned, 
and  then  painted  over  with  a  solution    of 
protochloride  of  tin,  and  immediately  after- 
ward with  an  ammoniacal  solution  of  sulphate 
of  copper.     The  layer  of  copper  thus  produced 
adheres  so  firmly  to  the  iron  or  steel,  that  the 
different  objects  can  be  rubbed  and  polished 
with  fine  chalk  without  injuring  the  deposit. 
The    tin    solution  is  prepared  with    1  part 
crystallized  chloride  of  tin,  2  parts  water,  and 
2  parts  hydrochloric  acid.     The  copper  solu- 
tion, with  1  part  sulphate  of  copper,  16  parts 
water,  adding  ammonia   sufficient  to   rcdis- 
solve  the  precipitate  first  thrown  down  by  it. 
Zinc  and  galvanized  iron  can  bo  treated,  ac- 
cording to  Boettger,  directly  by  the  copper 
solution,   without  using  the  tin  salt.     The 
above  process  may  be  found  useful  by  gilders, 
and  for  various  ornamental  purposes. 

3637.  Weil's   Process   for    Coating 
Iron  with  Copper.     This  process  yields  a 
coating  of   copper  of  great  brightness  and 
strong    cohesion.      The    object,  whether    of 
cast  or  wrought  iron,  is  freed  from  rust  by 
immersion  for  from  5  to  10  minutes  in  water 


containing  2  per  cent,  of  muriatic  acid,  and 
subsequent  scrubbing  for  ±  hour  with  a  wire 
brush  and  sand,  then  washing  in  water  until 
all  traces  of  acid  are  removed.  It  is  then 
covered  with  zinc  wire  in  spiral  turns  of 
about  6  inches  from  each  other,  which  also 
serves  as  a  means  of  suspension.  The  bath 
consists  of  a  solution  of  8  parts  caustic  soda 
in  100  parts  water,  of  which  11  quarts  are 
mixed  with  50  ounces  Eochelle  salts  and  12£ 
ounces  sulphate  of  copper,  making  a  liquid  of 
a  density  equal  to  19°  Baum6.  It  retains  its 
activity  as  long  as  the  copper  is  kept  replaced, 
and  deposition  from  it  proceeds  with  great 
regularity.  The  material  of  the  vessel  is 
best  when  made  of  wood,  lined  with  gutta- 
percha,  and  covered  with  a  wooden  lid.  When 
the  coating  is  of  sufficient  thickness,  the  ob- 
ject is  removed  from  the  bath,  first  washed 
with  water  slightly  acidified  with  sulphuric 
acid,  and  then  with  pure  water  until  the  dis- 
appearance of  all  traces  of  acid ;  after  this  it 
passes  into  a  drying  room  heated  to  132° 
Pahr.  The  bronzing,  when  required,  is  ob- 
tained by  a  bath  of  sulphide  of  sodium,  or  by 
means  of  the  same  bath  as  above,  somewhat 
modified,  that  is,  by  increasing  the  proportion 
of  copper  to  a  threefold,  in  which  case  the 
bath  no  longer  deposits  copper,  but,  to  all  ap- 
pearances, bronze.  By  reducing  the  points  of 
contact  between  the  iron  and  wire,  though 
retaining  the  spiral  turns  at  uniform  distances, 
the  deposit  gradually  assumes  a  number  of 
colors  in  the  following  series,  viz.:  orange, 
silver-white,  pale  yellow,  golden  yellow,  car- 
mine, green,  brown,  and  dark  bronze.  As  soon 
as  the  desired  color  is  attained,  the  object  is 
washed  in  warm  water,  and  again  dried  at  132°. 
Between  each  subsequent  change  of  color  is  an 
interval  of  about  5  minutes.  The  reaction  is 
more  decided  when  the  alkaline  reaction  of 
the  bath  is  stronger.  For  indoor  work  or 
ornaments  the  time  of  immersion  may  vary 
from  3  to  72  hours;  .  for  outdoor  objects  a 
much  longer  time  would  be  necessary. 

3638.  To  Tin  Iron  Pots  and  other 
Domestic  Articles.     The  articles  are  clean- 
ed with  sand,  and,  if  necessary,  with  acid,  and 
put  then  in  a  bath,  prepared  with  1   ounce 
cream  of  tartar,  1  ounce  tin  salt  (protochloride 
of  tin),  id  quarts  water.     This  bath  must  be 
kept  at  a  temperature  of  190°  Fahr.,  in  a 
stoneware  or  wooden  tank.     Bits  of  metallic 
zinc  are  put  into  and  between  the  different 
pieces.     When  the  coat  of  tin  is  considered 
thick   enough,  the  articles  are  taken  out  of 
the  fluid,  washed  with  water,  and  dried. 

3639.  To  Tin  by  the  Moist  Way. 
Make  a  solution  of  1  part  protochloride  of 
tin  in  10  parts  water,  to  which  add  a  solution 
of  2  parts  of  caustic  soda  in  20  parts  water; 
the  mixture  becomes  turbid,  but  this  does  not 
affect  the  tinning  operation,  which  is  effected 
by  heating  the  objects  to  be  tinned  in  this 
fluid,  care  being  taken,  at  the  same  time,  to 
place  in  the  liquid  a  piece  of  perforated  block 
tin  plate,  and  to  stir  up  the  fluid  during,  the 
tinning  with  a  rod  of  zinc. 

3640.  To  Tin  Iron  Without  the  Aid 
of  Heat.     To  105  quarts  water  are  added  Gg 
pounds  rye  meal ;  this  mixture  is  boiled  for 
30  minutes,  and  next  filtered  through  cloth ; 
to  the  clear  but  thickish  liquid  are  added  233 
pounds  pyrophosphate  of  soda,  37|  pounds 


332 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


protochloride  of  tin  in  crystals  (so-called  tin 
salt),  147-J-  pounds  neutral  protochloride  of 
tin,  3i  to  4  ounces  sulphuric  acid ;  this  liquid 
is  placed  in  well  made  wooden  troughs,  and 
serves  more  specially  for  the  tinning  of  iron 
and  steel  wire  (previously  polished)  for  the 
use  of  carding  machines.  When,  instead  of 
the  two  salts  of  tin  just  named,  cyanide  of 
silver  and  cyanide  of  potassium  are  taken,  the 
iron  is  perfectly  silvered. 

3641.  To  Cleanse  Iron  for  Tinning. 
The  metal  must  be  cleansed  by  immersion  in 
an  acid  solution ;  for  new  metal,  this  solution 
should  be  sulphuric  acid  and  water,  but  for 
old  metal,  muriatic  acid  and  water;    next 
scour  with  sand,  and  cleanse  well  with  water. 

3642.  To  Tin  Iron.     First  cleanse  as 
above,  then  heat  the  article  just  hot  enough 
to  melt  the  tin,  rub  the  surface  over  with  a 
piece  of  sal-ammoniac,  and  sprinkle  some  of 
the  sal-ammoniac  in  powder  over  it ;  then  ap- 
ply the  tin  and  wipe  it  over  evenly  with  a 
piece  of  tow. 

3643.  Cold   Tinning.     Rub  pure  tin- 
foil and  quicksilver  together  until  the  amal- 
gam becomes  soft  and  fusible,  clean  the  sur- 
face to  be  tinned  with  spirits  of  salt  (hydro- 
chloric acid),  and,  while  moist,  rub  the  amal- 
gam on,  and  then  evaporate  the  quicksilver 
by  heat. 

3644.  Stolba's   Method  of  Tinning 
Copper,  Brass,  and  Iron  in  the  Cold,  and 
without   Apparatus.      The  object    to  be 
coated  with  tin  must  be  entirely  free  from 
oxide  or  rust.     It  must  be  carefully  cleaned, 
and  care  be  taken  that  no  grease  spots  arc 
left ;  it  makes  no  difference  whether  the  ob- 
ject be  cleaned  mechanically  or  chemically. 
Two  preparations  are  requisite  for  the  purpose 
of  tinning.  Zinc  powder — the  best  is  that  pre- 
pared artificially  by  melting  zinc  and  pouring 
it  into  an  iron  mortar.     (See  No.  3312.)    It 
can  be   easily  pulverized  immediately   after 
solidification;   it  should  be  about  as  fine  as 
writing  sand.    A  solution  of  protocliloride  of 
tin,  containing  5  to  10  per  cent.,  to  which  as 
much  pulverized  cream  of  tartar  must    be 
added  as  will  go  on  the  point  of  a  knife. 

The  object  to  be  tinned  is  moistened  with 
the  tin  solution,  after  which  it  is  rubbed  hard 
with  the  zino  powder.  The  tinning  appears 
at  once.  The  tin  salt  is  decomposed  by  the 
zinc,  metallic  tin  being  deposited.  "When  the 
object  tinned  is  polished  brass  or  copper,  it 
appears  as  beautiful  as  if  silvered,  and  retains 
its  lustre  for  a  long  time.  This  method  may 
be  used  in  a  laboratory  to  preserve  iron, 
steel,  and  copper  apparatus  from  rust;  and 
would  become  of  great  importance  if  the  tin- 
ning could  be  made  as  thick  as  in  the  dry 
way,  but  this  has  not  as  yet  been  accom- 
plished. 

3645.  To  Tin   Copper   Tubes.     W. 
"Wollweber  recommends  for  still-worms  cop- 
per tubes  tinned  inside  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  To  a  solution  of  Kochelle  salts  a  solution 
of  salts  of  tin  is  added ;  a  precipitate  of  stan- 
nous  tartrate  is  formed,  which  is  washed  and 
then  dissolved  in  caustic  lye.    The  copper 
tube,  which  has  first  been  rinsed  with  sul- 
phuric acid  and  then  washed,  is  then  filled 
with  the  alkaline  solution,  warmed  a  little, 
and  touched  with  a  tin  rod,  which  causes  the 
deposition  of  a  coat  of  metallic  tin. 


3646.  To  Tin  a  Worn  Copper  Kettle. 

A  thick  coating  may  be  obtained  by  preparing 
a  tinning  solution  of  zinc  dissolved  in  muri- 
atic acid,  making  the  solution  as  thick  or 
heavily  charged  with  zinc  as  possible,  adding 
a  little  sal-ammoniac.  Clean  the  inside  of 
the  kettle,  place  it  in  a  charcoal  fire  until  a 
piece  of  block  tin  placed  inside  melts,  then 
rub  the  melted  tin  with  some  of  the  tinning 
solution,  quickly  on  the  copper  surface,  by 
means  of  a  ball  of  oakum  and  a  little  pow- 
dered resin;  the  tin  will  readily  adhere. 
"Wrought  iron  and  steel  may  be  tinned  in  the 
same  manner. 

3647.  To  Tin  a  Copper  Vessel.    Boil 
the  copper  vessel  with  a  solution  of  stannate 
of  potassa  mixed  with  tin  borings,  or  boil 
with  tin  filings  and  caustic  alkali  or  cream  of 
tartar.    In  a  few  minutes  a  layer  of  pure  tin 
will  be  firmly  attached. 

3648.  To  Tin  Cast  Copper  or  Brass. 
Make  a  saturated  solution  of  oxide  of  tin  (tin 
putty),  in  potash  lye ;    add  to   the  solution 
some  tin  filings  or  shavings ;  make  it  as  hot 
as  possible;  then  introduce  the  brass  or  cop- 
per and  it  will  be  tinned  in  a  few  seconds. 

3649.  To  Galvanize  Iron.     The  differ- 
ence between  galvanized  plates,  so-called,  and 
"sheet-tin,"  is,  that  the  latter  is  sheet-iron 
covered  with  a  thin  coating  of  block-tin,  while 
the  former  is  sheet-iron  covered  with  a  thin 
coating  of  zinc.     To  effect  the  latter  result, 
the  iron  plates  are  first  immersed  in  a  cleans- 
ing bath  of  equal  parts  of  sulphuric  or  muri- 
atic acid  and  water,  used  warm.     (Sec  No. 
3266.)     They  are  then  scrubbed  with  emery 
or  sand,  to  clean  them  thoroughly  and  detach 
all  scales,  if  any  are  left ;  after  which  they  are 
immersed  in  a  preparing  bath  of  equal  parts 
of  saturated  solutions  of  chloride  of  zinc  and 
chloride  of  ammonium,  from  which  bath  they 
are  directly  transferred  to  the  fluid  metallic 
bath,  consisting  of  20  chemical  equivalents  of 
zinc  to   1   of  mercury ;    or,   by  weight,  640 
pounds  of  zinc  to  10G  of  mercury,  to  which 
are  added  from  5  to  6  ounces  of  sodium.     As 
soon  as  the  iron  has  attained  the  temperature 
of   this  hot  fluid  bath,   which  is  only  680° 
Fahr.,  it  may  bo  removed,  aud  will  then  be 
found  thoroughly  coated  with    zinc.      Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  leave  the  plates  too  long 
immersed  in  this  bath,   as    its    affinity  for 
iron  is  such  that  they  may  become  dissolved. 
This  is  the  case  with  thin  plates  of  wrought- 
iron,  which,  even  when  i  inch  thick,  may  be 
dissolved  in  a  few  seconds.     It  is  safe,  there- 
fore, to  let  the  bath  previously  act  on  some 
wrought-iron,  so  that  it  dissolves  a  portion  of 
it,  in  order  to  satisfy  its  inconveniently  great 
affinity  for  this  metal. 

3650.  To   Zinc   or   Galvanize  Grey 
Iron  Castings.     Cleanse  the  articles  in  an 
ordinary  chafing  mill,  which  consists  of  a 
barrel  revolving  on  its  axis  containing  sand ; 
when  the  sand  is  all  removed,  take  them  out 
and  heat  one  by  one,  plunging,  while  hot,  in  a 
liquid  composed  as  follows :  10  pounds  hydro- 
chloric acid,  and  sufficient  sheet  zinc  to  make 
a  saturated    solution.     (See   No.   3473.)     In 
making  this  solution,  when  the  evolution  of 
gas  has  ceased,  add  muriate,  or  preferably 
sulphate  of  ammonia,   1   pound,   and   let  it 
stand  until  dissolved.     The  castings   should 
be  so  hot  that  when  dipped  into  this  solution, 


GILDING,    SILVERING,    ETC. 


333 


and  instantly  removed,  they  -will  immediately 
dry,  leaving  the  surface  crystallized  like 
frost-work  on  a  window  pane.  Next  plunge 
them  while  hot,  but  perfectly  dry,  into  a  bath 
of  melted  zinc,  previously  skimming  the  oxide 
on  the  surface  away,  and  throwing  thereon  a 
small  amount  of  powdered  sal-ammoniac. 
If  the  articles  arc  very  small,  inclose  them  in 
a  wrought-iron  basket  on  a  pole,  and  lower 
them  into  the  metal.  'When  this  is  done, 
shake  off  the  superfluous  metal,  and  cast  them 
into  a  vessel  of  water  to  prevent  them  from 
adhering  when  the  zinc  solidifies. 

3651.  To  Zinc  Copper  or  Brass  Ves- 
sels.    Boil  the  vessel  in  a  solution  of  chloride 
of  zinc,  adding  a  quantity  of  zinc  turnings  to 
the  solution. 

3652.  Boettger's  Process  for  Coating 
Copper  and  Brass  with.  Zinc  by  a  Wet 
Process.     Place  zinc  in  grains  or  powder  in 
a  non-metallic  vessel,  and  cover  the  zinc  with 
a    concentrated    solution    of   sal-ammoniac ; 
warm  to  ebullition,  and  introduce  into  the 
mixture  the  objects  of  copper  or  of  brass 
which  it  is  desired  to  coat,  after  having  pro- 
perly cleansed  them.    After  a  few  minutes, 
the  object  will  bo  covered  with  a  brilliant, 
firmly  adhering  deposit  of  zinc.  (See  No.  3312. ) 

3653.  To   Coat   Copper   with   Zinc. 
To  granulate  the  zinc,  a  clean  surface  of  cop- 
per may  bo  coated  with  zinc  by  placing  the 
two  metals  in  contact  in  a  solution  of  caustic 
soda  or  potash.    (See  Fig.  I.,  No.  3665.)    In 
the  cold  the  deposit  of  zinc  takes  place  slowly, 
but  at  100°  it  is  effected  rapidly. 

3654.  Purcher's  Method  of  Coating 
Zinc  with  Iron.     Dissolve  5  ounces  pure 
sulphate  of  iron,  and  3  ounces  sal-ammoniac, 
in  5  pounds  of  boiling  water,  and  immediately 
immerse  the  objects  to  bo  treated.     After  from 
1  or  2  minutes  the  loose  black  deposit  is  re- 
moved by  brushing  it  off  with  water.    The 
principal  effect  of  this  operation  is  a  perfect 
cleaning  of  the  surface.     The  immersion  in 
the  hot  iron  solution  is  then  repeated,  with 
the  difference  that  the  objects,  wheii  taken  out, 
are  heated,  without  rinsing,  over  a  pan  of  live 
coals  as  long  as  the  ammoniacal  vapors  arc 
evolved.      "When,   after  several  immersions, 
the  coating  is  considered  thick  enough,  it  is 
polished  by  brushing,  and  will  ever  afterward 
be  a  perfect  protection  against  oxidation.     It 
imparts  a  fine  black  lustre  to  the  coated  sur- 
faces. 

3655.  Process  for  Covering  Articles 
of  Zinc  with  Copper  or  Brass  by  One 
Immersion.     To  give  zinc  a  coat  of  copper 
or  brass  for  the  purpose  of  a  subsequent  sil- 
vering or  gilding,  the  following  solutions  arc 
used :  For  copper  alone,  a  solution  of  sulphate 
of  copper,  saturated  at  the  common  tempera- 
ture, is  mixed  with  a  solution  of  cyanide  of 
potassium,  adding  as  much  of  the  latter  as  is 
necessary  to  redissolve  the  precipitate  thrown 
down  at  first.     The  prussic   acid  disengaged 
during  this  operation  must  be  carried  off  by 
a  draught  or  flue.    When  the  mixture  is  clear, 
-fo  or  £  of  its  volume  of  water  of  ammonia  is 
added,  and  then  diluted  with  water  to  a  den- 
sity of  8°  Baum6.   For  brass,  sulphate  of  cop- 
per and  sulphate  of  zinc  are  used  in  equal  pro- 
portion, and  prepared  as  before.    2  parts  sul- 
phate of  zinc  and  1  of  sulphate  of  copper  give 
a  bright  brass  coating.     Previous  to  their  dip- 


ping, the  articles  of  zinc  are  rubbed  off  thor- 
oughly with  finely-powdered  pumice-stone 
and  rinsed  in  water,  after  which  they  are 
placed  in  the  bath  and  remain  there  for  24 
hours.  After  that  time  they  are  again 
rinsed  in  water  and  simply  wiped  off.  The 
copper  or  brass  covering  has  a  very  bright 
look,  as  if  polished,  and  adheres  perfectly. 
The  thickness  of  the  coat  may  be  increased 
afterwards  by  the  aid  of  a  battery. 

3656.  Dullo's  Method  of  "Platinizing 
Glass.      This    is  recommended    to   prevent 
fusing  cf  the  thin  end  of  a  glass  tube  used 
for  a  blowpipe.     In  drawing  out  the  end  of 
the  tube,  leave  the  diameter  slightly  larger 
than  is  necessary ;  then  roughen  the  narrow 
end  with  a  file.       Dip  in  a  solution  of  bi- 
chloride of  platinum,  containing  5  per  cent,  of 
the  metal;  remove  excess  of  the  drop,  and 
heat  cautiously  till  the  glass  acquires  a  me- 
tallic appearance.    Repeat  this  4  or  5  times. 

3657.  Boettger's  Method  of  Platiniz- 
ing Glass.     Pour  rosemary  oil  upon  the  dry 
chloride  of  platinum  in  a  porcelain  dish,  and 
knead  it  well  until  all  parts  are  moistened; 
then  rub  this  up  with  5  times  its  weight  of 
lavender  oil,  and  leave  the  liquid  a  short  time 
to  clarify.    The  objects  to  be  platinized  are  to 
be  thinly  coated  with  the  above  preparation 
and  afterwards  heated  for  a  few  minutes  in  a 
muffle  or  over  a  Bunsen  burner. 

3658.  Platinising   Copper,    Yellow 
Metal,  and  Brass.     In  order  to  obtain  a 
platinizing  fluid  capable  of  platinizing  copper, 
yellow  metal,  and  brass,  add  to  a  moderately 
concentrated  solution  of  chloride  of  platinum, 
finely  powdered  carbonate  of  soda,  until  effer- 
vescence ceases ;  next  some  glucose,  and  after- 
wards just  so  much  common  salt  as  will  cause 
a  whitish-colored  precipitate.     When  it  is  de- 
sired to  apply  this  mixture  for  platinizing,  the 
objects  to  bo  treated  are  placed  in  a  vessel 
made  of  zinc  and  perforated  with  holes ;  the 
vessel  is  then  placed,  with  its  contents,  for  a 
few  seconds  in  the  mixture  thus  described, 
which,  just  previous  to  using,  should  be  heat- 
ed to  140°  Fahr.     On  being  removed  from  the 
zinc  vessel,  the  objects  are  to  bo  washed  with 
water  and  dried  in  sawdust. 

3659.  Stolba's   Method   of    Nickel 
Plating.      Into  the    plating  vessel — which 
may  bo  of  porcelain,  but  preferably  of  copper 
— i3  placed  a  concentrated  solution  of  chlonde 
of  zinc,  which  is  then  diluted  with  from  1  to  2 
volumes  of  water,  and  heated  to  boiling.     If 
any  precipitate  separates,  it  is  to  bo  redissolv- 
ed  by  adding  a  faw  drops  of  hydrochloric  acid. 
As  much  powdered  zinc  as  can  be  taken  on 
the  point  of  a  knife  is  thrown  in,  by  which 
the  vessel  becomes  covered  internally  with  a 
coating  of  zinc.    The  nickel  salt — for  which 
purpose  cither  the  chloride  or  sulphate  may 
be  used — is  then  added  until  the  liquid  is  dis- 
tinctly green ;  and  tho  articles  to  be  plated, 
previously  thoroughly  cleaned,  are  introduced, 
together  with  some    zinc   fragments.      Tho 
boiling  is  continued  for  15  minutes,  when  tho 
coating  of  nickel  1.3  completed,  and  the  process 
is  finished.  Tho  articles  are  well  washed  with 
water  and  cleaned  with  chalk.    If  a  thicker 
coating  be  desired,  the  operation  may  be  re- 
peated.    Professor  Stolba  found  that  copper 
vessels  thus  plated  were  scarcely  tarnished 
after  several  months'  use  in  the  laboratory. 


334, 


ELECTEOTYPING. 


EleCtrOtyplng.  This  is  a  pro- 
cess for  depositing  a  coating  of  metal 
on  objects,  metallic  or  otherwise,  by  the 
agency  of  a  current  of  galvanic  electricity. 
Before  entering  into  any  description  of  the 
methods  employed,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
give  some  indispensable  preliminary  direc- 
tions, in  order  that  the  whole  matter  may  be 
more  clearly  understood.  The  matter  is  main- 
ly derived  from  the  4th  edition  of  Napier's 
Manual  of  Electro-Metallurgy. 

3661.  Solution  of  Copper  for  Electro- 
typing.     Crush  fine  sulphate  of  copper  in 
crystals,  and  expose  to  the  air  for  some  time. 
This  oxidizes  any  iron  that  may  be  present. 
Stir  the  sulphate  of  copper  into  pure  cold 
water,  until  the  water  will  dissolve  no  more ; 
then  let  it  settle,  and  decant  the  clear  solu- 
tion ;  add  to  it  about  one-fourth  its  quantity 
of  water,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

3662.  To  Amalgamate  Zinc.   Immerse 
a  plate  or  strip  of  zinc  of  the  required  size  in 
diluted  sulphuric  acid,  for  a  few  moments ; 
then  rub  quicksilver  over  the  surface.    When- 
ever the  surface  of  the  amalgamated  zinc  em- 
ployed   in  a  battery  begins  to  blacken  and 
lose  its  quicksilver  coating,  the  zinc  must  be 
taken  out  of  the  acid  cell  and  amalgamated 
again. 

3663.  To  Keep  the  Zinc  Plates  of  a 
Smee's   Battery  Constantly  Amalgam- 
ated.    The  trouole  of  renewing  the  coating 
of  amalgam  on  the  zinc  plates  may  be  obvia- 
ted by  a  very  simple  contrivance.     Cover  the 
bottom  of  the  cell  with  quicksilver,  and  let 
the  zinc  plates  be  long  enough  to  dip  into  it. 
The  silver  plate  must  bo  a  little  shorter  than 
the  zinc  plates,  so  that  it  will  not  touch  the 
mercury.     By  this  arangement  the  zinc  plates 
draw  up  the  mercury  as  fast  as  it  is  worn  off 
by  the  action  of  the  acid. 

3664.  Decomposing  Cell.     This    is    a 
vessel  of  suitable  shape  and  dimensions,  con- 
taining the  plating  or  electrotyping  solution ; 
and  is  usually  furnished  with  appliances  over 
it  for  suspending  and  sustaining  in  their  pro- 
per position  the  negative  electrodes  or  arti- 
cles to  receive  the  metallic  coating,  and  their 
corresponding  positive  electrodes,  or  plates  of 
metal,  which  serve  to  complete  the  electric 
circuit,  and  whoso  decomposition  serves   to 
keep  up  the  strength  of  the  solution.     The 
positive  electrode  must  always  be  of  the  same 
metal  as  that  which  the  solution  contains. 

3665 .  The  Principles  of  the  Galvanic 
Battery  Explained.     If  a  piece  of  ordinary 
metallic  zinc  be  put  into  dilute  sulphuric  acid, 
it  is  speedily  acted  upon  by  the  acid,  and 
hydrogen  gas  is  at  the  same  time   evolved 
from  its  surface.    If  the  zinc  be  taken  out, 
and  a  little  mercury  be  rubbed  over  its  sur- 
face, an  amalgamation  takes  place  between  the 
two  metals,  and  the  plate  becomes  of  a  beauti- 
ful bright  silver  appearance.     If  the  zinc  thus 
amalgamated  be  again  put  into  the  dilute  acid, 
there  is  no  action,  for  the  mercury  retains  the 
zinc  with  sufficient  force  to  protect  it  from  the 
acid.     If  a  piece  of  copper  be  immersed  along 
with  the  zinc,  and  the  two  metals  be  made  to 
touch  each  other,  a  particular  influence  is  in- 
duced among  the  three  elements,  zinc,  copper, 
and  acid ;  and  the  acid  again  acts  upon  the 
zinc  as  if  no  mercury  was  upon  it,  but  the 
hydrogen  is  now  seen  to  escape  from  the  sur- 


face of  the  copper ;  this  action  will  go  on  as 
long  as  the  two  metals  are  kept  in  contact. 
Or  if,  instead  of  causing  the  two  metals  to 
touch,  a  wire  be  attached  to  each,  and  their 
opposite  ends  are  placed  in  a  little  dilute  acid 
in  another  vessel,  the  same  action  will  take 
place  between  the  zinc  and  copper  as  when 
they  were  in  contact;  but  in  this  instance, 
the  ends  of  the  two  wires  which  dip  into  the 
vessel  containing  acid  will  undergo  a  change ; 
the  one  attached  to  the  zinc  will  give  off 
a  quantity  of  hydrogen  gas,  while  the  one 
attached  to  the  copper,  supposing  it  to  be 
also  copper,  will  rapidly  dissolve. 

Figure  1.  Eepresents  the  zinc  and  copper, 
placed  in  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  brought  into 
contact ;  in  this  experiment,  gas  will  be  seen 
escaping  from  the  copper. 


Mg.2. 


Fig.  3. 


Figure  2.  Zinc  and  copper,  placed  in  dilute 
acid,  and  wires  attached,  which,  when  con- 
nected, will  exhibit  the  same  effects  as  in  the 
first  case. 

Figure  3.  Shows  the  wires  connected  by 
means  of  a  liquid,  such  as  acid  and  water, 
sulphate  of  copper,  etc.,  contained  in  a  wine- 
glass. 

The  copper  and  zinc,  c  and  z,  with  the  acid 
in  the  first  vessel,  figure  3,  constitute  a  battery 
of  one  pair.  The  wine-glass  in  which  the 
wires  are  placed,  is  termed  the  decomposing 
cell  (see  jYo.  3GG4),  and  is  the  receptacle  or 
vessel  in  which  the  process  of  electroplating 
is  effected.  The  above  description  will  give 
a  tolerably  clear  idea  of  the  principles  of  a 
simple  galvanic  battery.  Different  kinds  of 
batteries  are  only  different  modifications  or 
applications  of  the  same  principles,  and  have 
each  their  special  excellence;  but  for  electro- 
plating, Smee's  battery  is  the  one  usually 
adopted. 

3666.  To   Construct   a  Cheap   Gal- 
vanic Battery.     Take  a  gallon  stone  jar, 
and  place  a  sheet-zinc  cylinder  therein,  and 
inside  that  a  porous  cup  (a  porous  flower-pot 
with  a  cork  fitted  in  the  hole  will  answer 
after  a  fashion).    Inside  the  porous  cup  place 
a  piece  of  sheet  copper.     Use  a  solution  of 
common  salt  next  the  zinc,  and  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  copper  next  the  copper  in  the 
porous  cup,  if  a  strong  current  be   desired. 
The  liquids  inside  and  outside  the  porous  cup 
should  stand  at  the  same  level.    Dilute  sul- 
phuric acid  (1  part  acid  to  10  water)  makes  a 
very  constant,  but  weaker  current. 

3667.  Description  of  a  Smee's  Bat- 
tery.    This   apparatus  consists   of  a  vessel 
containing  a  mixture  of  about  15  or  20  (Mor- 
fit  gives  only  7)  parts  water  to  1   part  sul- 
phuric acid,  provided  with  a  strip  of  baked 
and  varnished  wood,  long  enough  to    stand 
across  the  edge   of  the  vessel,  and    grooved 
lengthways  underneath,  to  receive  the  edge  of 


ELECTROTYPING. 


a  silver  plate,  to  which  a  short  wire  is  at- 
tauiied  and  connected  through  a  hole  in  the 
wood  with  a  screw  cap  on  the  upper  side  of 
the  wood.  Two  plates  of  zinc  are  arranged, 
one  on  each  side  of  the  strip  of  wood,  and 
secured  by  a  screw  clamp,  the  upper  part  of 
which  is  also  fitted  with  a  screw  cap.  The 
object  of  the  screw  caps  is  to  receive  and 
secure  the  wires  connecting  with  the  decom- 
posing cell.  The  zinc  plates  must  first  be 
coated  with  amalgam  {see  No.  3662,  also  No. 
3663) ;  and  the  silver  plate  must  be  covered 
with  a  coating  of  platina. 
(See  No.  3670.)  The  ar- 
rangement of  the  parts 
will  be  seen  in  the  cut. 
"When  two  or  more  cells 
are  used  in  combination, 
forming  a  compound  bat- 
tery, the  silver  plate  of 
the  first  cell  is  connected 
by  a  wire  with  the  zinc 
plates  of  the  second ;  the 
silver  plate  of  the  second 
cell  is  connected  with  the 
zinc  of  the  third  cell;  the 
silver  of  the  third  with 
the  zinc  of  the  fourth, 
and  so  on  through  any  number  of  cells. 
The  two  wires  connecting  the  battery  with 
the  decomposing  trough  are  attached,  one  to 
the  zinc  plates  of  the  first  cell,  and  the  other 
to  the  silver  plate  of  the  last  cell.  In  fact, 
the  zinc  pole  of  the  first,  and  silver  pole  of  the 
last  cell,  really  constitute  the  battery,  the  in- 
termediate cells  each  furnishing  an  additional 
quota,  as  it  were,  of  intensity,  to  the  galvanic 
current. 

The  wire  connected  with  the  zinc  (or  posi- 
tive') plates  is  called  the  negative  pole  or 
cathode ;  and  the  wire  connected  to  the 
silver  (or  negative)  plate  is  called  the  positive 
pole  or  anode.  The  material  used  for  con- 
necting wires  is  usually  copper,  and  should  be 
clean  and  bright,  and  in  order  to  insure  per- 
fection of  contact,  the  ends  of  the  wire  may 
be  amalgamated  by  dipping,  first  in  a  solu- 
tion of  nitrate  of  mercury,  and  then  in  metal- 
lic mercury. 

3668.  Improved  Liquid  for  the  Gal- 
vanic Battery.     Mr.  Yictor  Barjon's  new 
battery  liquid  is  made  by  mixing  a  solution 
of  bichromate  of  potash  with  a  little  lime, 
and  with  sulphuric  acid.     He  puts  2  pounds 
bichromate  of  potash  into  a  gallon  of  boiling 
water,  and  lets  the  solution  cool  down  to  68°, 
and  adds  2  ounces  of  lime.     After  stirring,  he 
adds  sulphuric  acid  until  the  gravity  reaches 
35°  Baume".     Then,  having  stirred  the  whole, 
he  lets  it  stand  for  24  hours,  when  it  is  ready 
for  use. 

3669.  Electrotyping  by  the  Single 
Cell    Process.      This  is  an    adaptation  of 
Daniell's  cell  to  the  purposes  of  electrotyping, 
and  dispenses  with  any  separate  decomposing 
cell ;  in  fact  it  is  a  galvanic  battery  and  a  de- 
composing cell  combined  in  one,  and  is  useful, 
for  small  objects,  from  its  simplicity.     About 
J-  fill  a  large  jar  (a  preserve  jar  without  any 
neck  is  best),  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of 
copper  (see  No.  3661) ;  insert  in  this  a  small 
tubular    porous  vessel   of   about    the  same 
height  as  the  jar  (these  porous  tubes  can  be 
found  at  any  store  where  chemical  apparatus 


is  sold),  and  pour  into  it  a  mixture  of  21  parts 
water  and  1  part  sulphuric  acid,  until  the 
diluted  acid  in  the  porous  tube  stands  at  the 
same  level  as  the  sulphate  of  copper  solution 
outside  it.  To  one  end  of  a  piece  of  copper 
wire  fasten  a  strip  of  amalgamated  zinc  (see 
No.  3662),  which  is  to  be  inserted  in  the 
porous  tube ;  to  the  other  end  of  the  wire 
attach  the  object  to  be  eleotrotyped,  properly 
prepared  (see  No.  3689),  and  place  it  in  the 
copper  solution,  with  its  face  parallel  to  the 
zinc  plate,  and  about  J  an  inch  from  the  side 
of  the  porous  tube.  In  about  24  hours  the 
deposit  of  copper  will  be  of  about  the  thick- 
ness of  a  card,  and  may  be  taken  off.  "When 
not  in  use,  the  zinc  should  be  taken  out, 
washed  and  dried ;  and  when  in  use  must  on 
no  account  touch  the  bottom  or  any  other 
part  of  the  porous  tube.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
give  the  wire  one  twist  round  a  stick  of  wood, 
laid  across  the  top  of  the  tube,  so  as  to  sus- 
pend and  support  the  zinc.  A  few  crystals  of 
sulphate  of  copper,  enclosed  in  a  piece  of 
lawn  or  net,  should  be  hung  from  the  edge  of 
the  vessel  just  below  the  surface  of  the  copper 
solution,  to  replace  the  copper  that  deposits 
on  the  object  being  electrotyped,  and  prevent 
the  solution  from  becoming  weaker. 

3670.  To  Coat  Silver  with  Platina. 
This  is  effected  by  the  one  cell  process,  sub- 
stituting for  the  sulphate  of  copper  solution, 
water  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid,  and  con- 
taining a  little  chloride  of  platinum.    The 
silver  is  first  roughened  on  the  surface  by  ap- 
plying strong  nitric  acid,  and  washed ;  it  is 
then  attached  to  the  end  of  the  wire  leading 
from  the  zinc  plate  in  the  porous  cell,  and  im- 
mersed in  the  platinum  solution  exactly  as  if 
it  were  a  medal  to  be  electrotyped,  until  the 
surface  is  covered  with  a  dark  and  granular 
deposit. 

3671.  Electrotyping  with  a  Battery. 
For  this  purpose  a  Smee's  battery  (see  No. 
3667)  is  usually  employed,  in  connection  with 
a  decomposing  cell.     (See  No.  3664.)    As  the 
method  for  electrotyping,   or    coating  with 
copper,  is  substantially  the  same  as  for  other 
metals,  a  description  of  the  first  will  suffice. 
The  decomposing  cell  being  charged  with  a 
solution  of  sulphate  of  copper  (see  No.  3661), 
the  object,  duly  prepared  (see  No.  3689),  to  be 
electrotyped,  is  properly  secured  in  position, 
and  connected  with  the  cathode  or  wire  lead- 
ing from  the  zinc  plates  of  the  battery.     To 
the  anode   or  wire  leading  from  the   silver 
plate,   a  positive  electrode,   consisting  of  a 
piece  of  the  same  metal  as  the  solution  con- 
tains (in  this  case,  copper),  is  attached,  and 
immersed  in  the  solution,  face  to  face  with 
the  object  to  be  electrotyped ;  as  the  copper 
from  the  solution  is  precipitated  on  the  ob- 
ject, the  piece  of  copper  is  dissolved,  and  thus 
keeps  up  the  strength  of  the  solution.    Any 
number  of  objects  may  be  electrotyped  in  the 
same  decomposing  cell,  provided  that  each  is 
connected  with  the  zinc  pole  of  the  .battery, 
and  hangs  facing  a  positive  electrode.     The 
usual  arrangement  for  this  purpose  consists  of 
a  water-tight    trough  of    suitable  size  and 
shape  (usually  oblong),  to  contain  the  copper 
or  other  metallic  solution,  and  is  provided 
with  metal  bars,  long  enough  to  reach  the 
length  of  the  trough  and  rest  on  the  upper 
edge    at   each   end;    the    bars  rest  on    dry 


336 


ELECTROTYPING. 


varnished  blocks  of  -wood,  and  are  laid  pa- 
rallel to  each  other  at  a  distance  of  3  or  more 
inches  apart,  according  as  the  space  between 
them  is  required.  Plates  of  copper  of  nearly 
the  same  length  as  the  trough  are  suspended 
from  the  bars,  and  submerged  in  the  solution 
parallel  with  them.  These  bars,  and  conse- 
quently the  copper  plates  (which  constitute 
continuous  positive  electrodes)  are  connected 
with  copper  wire  or  ribbons  to  the  anode,  or 
silver  pole  of  the  battery.  Alternately  be- 
tween these  bars,  other  bars  are  placed,  exact- 
ly similarly  arranged,  but  having  small  pro- 
jections or  buttons  on  one  of  their  sides,  to 
which  the  objects  to  be  electrotyped  are 
secured  by  a  wire,  and  suspended  in  the  solu- 
tion, face  to  face  with  its  corresponding  cop- 
per plate.  These  latter  bars  are  connnected 
with  the  cathode  or  zinc  pole  of  the  battery. 
It  will  thus  be  evident  that  each  contiguous 
pair  of  bars  are  mutually  positive  and  nega- 
tive electrodes,  and  the  objects  on  the  one 
must  closely  face  the  copper  plate  on  the 
other.  The  accompanying  cut  will  give  some 
idea  of  the  arrangement  of  one  pair  of  bars. 

B  B  is  the  bar  connected  by  the  wire  S 
with  the  silver  pole  of  the  battery,  and  sup- 
porting a  plate  of  copper  suspended  in  the 
trough.  In  the  cut,  the  copper  is  supposed 
to  be  transparent,  in  order  that  the  objects  to 


be  electrotyped,  suspended  from  the  bar  A  A, 
may  be  visible ;  they  are  supposed  to  be  be- 
hind and  closely  facing  the  copper  plate. 
The  bar  A  A  is  connected  by  the  wire  Z  to 
the  zinc  pole  of  the  battery. 

3672.  To  Obtain  a  Copper  Mould  of 
a  Coin.  A  fine  copper  wire  must  be  put 
round  the  edge  of  the  coin  and  fastened  by 
twisting.  Then  cover  the  back  part,  and  the 
wire,  upon  which  the  deposit  is  not  required, 
with  bees'  wax  or  tallow,  or,  what  is  better, 
imbed  the  back  of  the  coin  in  gutta  percha. 


the  surface  moistened  with  sweet  oil,  by  a 
camel's-hair  pencil,  and  then  cleaned  off  by  a 
silk  cloth,  till  the  surface  appears  dry ;  or,  in- 
stead of  oil,  the  surface  may  be  brushed  over 
with  black  lead,  which  will  impart  to  it  a 
bronze  appearance.  The  use  of  the  oil  or 
black  lead  is  to  prevent  the  deposit  adhering 
to  the  face  of  the  coin.  The  coin  is  now  ready 
to  bo  subjected  to  the  single  cell  process  (see 
No.  3G69J,  by  which  means  a  perfect  counter- 
part or  mould  of  the  coin  is  obtained.  This 
mould  may  next  be  treated  exactly  as  de- 
scribed for  obtaining  it  from  the  original  coin, 
.and  the  deposit  from  it  will  be  a  fac-simile 


of  one  side  of  the  coin.  With  care,  any  num- 
ber of  duplicates  may  be  taken  from  this 
mould,  if  it  be  properly  coated. 

3673.  Coating  for  Copper   Moulds. 
Take  a  gill  of  rectified  spirits  of  turpentine, 
and  add  to  it  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary 
pea  of  bees'  wax.  "When  this  is  dissolved,  wet 
over  the  surface  of  the  mould  with  it,  and 
then  allow  it  to  dry :  the  mould  is  then  ready 
to  put  into  the  solution.     Medals  taken  from 
moulds  so  prepared  retain  their  beautifully 
bright  color  for  a  long  time.     But  when  fine 
line  engravings  are  to  be  coated,  the  little 
wax  dissolved  in  the  turpentine  may  be  ob- 
jectionable;  so  also  is  black  lead,  for  both 
have  a  tendency  to  fill  up  the  fine  lines.     In 
this  case,  let  the  turpentine  wash  be  wiped 
off  with  a  silk  handkerchief,  instead  of  drying 
it ;   but  for  ordinary  medals  this   objection 
will  scarcely  apply. 

3674.  Preparation  of  Wax  for  Taking 
Moulds.  Whether  the  bees'  wax  have  stearinc 
in  it  or  not,  it  is  best  to  prepare  it  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:    Put  some  common  virgin 
wax  into  an  earthenware  pot  or  pipkin,  and 
place  it  over  a  slow  fire ;  and  when  it  is  all 
melted,  stir  into  it  a  little  white  lead  (flako 
white),  or  black  lead  (plumbago),  say  about  1 
ounce  white  lead  to  the  pound  of  wax ;  this 
mixture  tends  to  prevent    the  mould  from 
cracking  in  the  cooling,  and  from  floating  in 
the  solution ;  the  mixture  should  be  re-melted 
two  or  three  times  before  using  it  for  the  first 
time.     Resin    has    been  recommended  as  a 

i  mixture  with  wax ;  mixtures  of  which,  in 
various  proportions,  have  been  used  with  suc- 
cess ;  but  when  often  used,  decomposition  or 
some  change  takes  place,  which  makes,  the 
mixture  granular  and  flexible,  rendering  it 
less  useful  for  taking  moulds.  When  resin  is 
used,  the  mixture,  when  first  melted,  should 
be  boiled,  or  nearly  so,  and  kept  at  that  heat 
until  effervescence  ceases;  it  is  then  to  be 
poured  out  upon  a  flat  plate  to  cool,  after 
which  it  may  be  used  as  described. 

3675.  To  Take  Moulds  in  Wax.     The 
medal  to  be   copied   must   be  brushed   over 
with  a  little  sweet  oil :  a  soft  brush,  called  a 
painter's  sash  tool,  suits  this  purpose  well : 
care  must  be  taken  to  brush  the  oil  well  into 
all  parts  of  the  medal,  after  which  the  super- 
fluous oil  must  be  wiped  off  with  a  piece  of 
cotton  or  cotton  wool.    If  the  medal  has  a 
bright  polished  surface,  very  little   oil  is  re- 
quired, but  if  the  surface  be  matted  or  dead, 
it  requires  more  care  with  the  oil.     A  slip  of 
card-board  or  tin  is  now  bound  round  the 
edge  of  the  medal,  the  edge   of  which   slip 
should  rise  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  higher 
than  the  highest  part  on  the  face    of  the 
medal.    This  done,  hold  the  medal  with  its 
rim  a  little  sloping,  then  pour  the  wax  in  the 
lowest  portion,  and  gently  bring  it  level,  so 
that  the  melted  wax  may  •gradually  flow  over ; 
this  will  prevent  the  formation  of  air-bubbles. 
Care  must  be  taken  not  to  pour  the  wax  on 
too  hot,  as  that  is  one  gjeat  cause  of  failure  in 
getting  good  moulds ;  it  should  be  poured  on 
just  as  it  is  beginning  to  set  in  the  dish.    As 
soon  as  the  composition  poured  on  the  medal 
is  set  (becomes  solid),  undo  the  rim,  for  if  it 
was  allowed  to  remain  on  till  the  wax  became 
perfectly  cool,  the  wax  would  adhere  to  it, 
and  would  be  liable  to  crack  from  shrinking. 


ELECTROTTPING. 


337 


Pnt  the  medal  and  wax  in  a  cool  place,  and 
in  about  an  hour  the  two  will  separate  easily. 
When  they  adhere,  the  cause  is  either  that 
too  little  oil  has  been  used,  or  that  the  wax 


3678.  To  Take  Moulds  of  Plaster 
from  Plaster  Models.  When  a  plaster 
mould  is  to  be  taken,  the  face  of  the  model  is 
prepared  differently  to  that  described,  in  order 
to  prevent  the  adhesion  of  the  two  plasters 


The  best  substance  for  this  purpose  is  a  mix- 


was  poured  on  too  hot. 
3676.      To  Take  "Wax  Moulds  from  .     , 

Plaster.  If  the  object  from  which  the  mould  |  ture  of  soft  soap  and  tallow,  universally  used 
is  to  be  taken,  which  we  assume  to  be  a  j  by  potters  for  preparing  their  moulds,  and 
medal,  be  composed  of  plaster  of  Paris,  and  called  by  them  lacquer.  It  is  prepared  in  the 
the  mould  is  to  be  taken  in  wax,  the  first  following  manner :  k  pound  soft  soap  is  put 
operation  is  to  prepare  the  plaster  medal,  into  3  pints  clean  water,  which  are  set  on  a 

mf_  i       ?ii      i? j          •!       -L i~    .. — A      \* —      ,   "•  **  al *- •*--*-! 1 -xi ! 


Some  boiled  linseed  oil,  such  as  is  used  by 
house  painters,  is  to  be  laid  over  the  surface 
of  the  medal  with  a  camePs-hair  pencil,  and 
continued  until  it  is  perfectly  saturated,  which 
is  known  by  the  plaster  ceasing  to  absorb 
any  more  of  the  oil.  This  operation  succeeds 
best  when  the  medal  is  heated  a  little.  The 
medal  should  now  be  laid  aside  till  the  oil 
completely  dries,  when  the  plaster  will  be 
found  to  be  quite  hard,  and  haying  the  ap- 
pearance of  polished  marble;  it  is,  conse- 
quently, fit  to  be  used  for  taking  the  wax 
mould,"  which  is  done  in  the  same  manner  as 
we  have  described  for  taking  a  wax  mould 
from  a  metallic  medal.  (See  No.  3675.) 
Many  prefer  saturating  the  medal  with  wa- 
ter. This  is  best  done  by  placing  the  medal 
back  down  in  the  water,  but  not  allowing  it 
to  flow  over  the  face  ;  the  water  rises,  by  capil- 
lary attraction,  to  the  surface  of  the  medal, 
rendering  the  face  damp  without  being  wet. 
The  rim  being  now  tied  on  the  plaster  medal, 
the  melted  wax  is  poured  upon  it.  This 
method  is  equally  good,  but  liability  to  fail- 
ures is  much  greater,  caused  generally  by  the 
wax  being  too  hot.  The  plaster  medal  may 
be  saturated  with  skimmed  milk  and  then 
dried ;  by  repeating  this  twice,  the  plaster  as- 
sumes on  the  surface  an  appearance  like  mar- 
ble, and  may  be  used  for  taking  wax  moulds. 
3677.  To  Take  Moulds  in  Plaster. 
If  a  plaster  of  Paris  mould  is  to  be  taken  from 
the  metallic  medal,  the  preparation  of  the 
medal  is  the  same  as  described  in  No.  3676 ; 
and  when  so  prepared  with  the  rim  of  card- 
board or  tin,  get  a  basin  with  as  much  water 
in  it  as  will  be  sufficient  to  make  a  proper 
sized  mould  (a  very  little  experience  will 
enable  the  operator  to  know  this),  then  take 
the  finest  plaster  of  Paris  and  sprinkle  it  into 
the  water,  stirring  it  till  the  mixture  becomes 
of  the  consistence  of  thick  cream  ;  then  pour 
a  small  portion  upon  the  face  of  the  medal, 
and,  with  a  brush  similar  to  that  used  for  oil- 
ing it,  gently  brush  the  plaster  into  every 
part  of  the  surface,  which  will  prevent  the 
formation  of  air-bubbles;  then  pour  on  the 
remainder  of  the  plaster  till  it  rises  to  the 
edge  of  the  rim :  if  the  plaster  is  good,  it  will 
be  ready  for  taking  off  in  an  hour.  The 
mould  is  then  to  be  placed  before  a  fire,  or  in 
an  oven,  until  quite  dry,  after  which  it  is  to 
be  placed,  back  downwards,  in  a  shallow  ves- 
sel containing  melted  wax,  not  of  sufficient 
depth  to  flow  over  the  face  of  the  mould,  al- 
lowing the  whole  to  remain  over  a  slow  fire 
until  the  wax  has  penetrated  the  plaster,  and 
appears  upon  the  face.  Having  removed  it  to 
a  cool  place  to  harden,  it  will  soon  be  ready 
for  electrotyping.  Glycerine  affords  an  ex- 
cellent coating  for  the  interior  of  plaster 


moulds,   to    prevent  the  melted  wax 
adhering  to  the  inside  of  the  mould. 


from 


clear  fire,  and  kept  in  agitation  by  stirring ; 
when  the  mixture  begins  to  boil,  add  from  1 
to  1|  ounces  tallow,  and  keep  boiling  till  it  is 
reduced  in  bulk  to  about  2  pints,  when  it  is 
ready  for  use.  The  surface  of  the  medal 
must  be  washed  over  with  this  lacquer,  allow- 
ing it  to  absorb  as  much  as  it  can,  when  it 
assumes  the  appearance  of  polished  marble ; 
it  is  now  prepared  with  a  nm  of  paper,  and 
the  mould  taken  as  directed  for  taking  plaster 
moulds.  (See  No.  3677.)  "When  hardened, 
they  will  separate  easily.  "Wetting  the  p]  aster 
model  with  a  solution  of  soap  before  taking 
the  cast  will  do,  or,  if  the  plaster  model  has 
been  saturated  with  oil  or  milk,  it  has  only  to 
be  moistened  with  sweet  oil  the  same  as  a 
metal  model. 

3679.  To  Take  Moulds  of  Fusible 
Alloy  from  Plaster  Models.     If  a  mould 
of  fusible  metal  be  required  from  a  plaster 
model,  the  plaster  may  be  saturated  either 
with  boiled  oil  (see  No.  3676),  or  the  soap 
and  tallow  lacquer  (see  No.  3678),   and  the 
mould  taken  in  the  same  manner  as  from  a 
metallic  medal.     (See  No.  3677.) 

3680.  Copper  Moulds  from  Plaster. 
Many   electro-metallurgists    prefer   taking  a 
mould  in  copper  when  the  medal  is  of  plaster 
of  Paris.     This  is  done  by  the  electrotype 
process  (see  No.  3671);  the  plaster  model  is 
saturated  with    wax  over    a    slow    fire,   as 
already  detailed,  and  then  prepared  for  taking 
an  electrotype  in  the  usual  manner    (See  No. 
3672,  ^-c.)    "We  need  hardly  mention  that  the 
model  in  this  case  is  destroyed ;    but,  not- 
withstanding, in  the  case  of  plaster  models, 
to  take  a  copper  mould  is  the  most  preferable, 
as  it  may  be  repaired  in  case  of  slight  defect, 
and  it  may  be  used  over  and  over  again  with- 
out deterioration.    "When  an  electrotype  is 
required  of  a  model  that  is  undercut,  or  of  a 
bust  or  figure,   the  process  which  we  have 
described  will  not  answer,  as  the  mould  can- 
not separate  from  the  model.    In  such  cir- 
cumstances the  general  method  of  proceeding 
is  to  part  the  mould  in  separate  pieces,  and 
then  join  these  together.     The  material  used 
for  this  purpose  is  plaster  of  Paris.      The 
operation,  however,  to  be  well  done,  requires 
a  person  of  considerable  experience. 

3681.  To   Take   Moulds  in   Gutta-. 
Percha.      Gutta-percha,  as  a   material    for 
moulding,  serves  the  purpose  most  admirably. 
The  method  adopted  for  taking  moulds  is  to 
heat  the  gutta-percha  in  boiling  water,  or  in  a 
chamber  heated  to  the  temperature  of  boiling 
water,  which  makes  it  soft  and  pliable.    The 
medal  is  fitted  with  a  metallic  nm,  or  placed 
in  the  bottom  of  a  metal  saucer  with  a  cylin- 
drical rim  a  little  larger  than  the  medal ;  the 
medal  being  placed  back  down,  a  quantity  of 
gutta-percha  is  pressed  into  the  saucer,  and  as 
much  added  as  will  cause  it  to  stand  above 


338 


ELECT HOTYPING. 


the  edge  of  the  rim.  It  is  now  placed  in  a 
common  copying-press  and  kept  under  pres- 
sure until  it  is  quite  cold  and  hard.  The  im- 
pressions taken  this  way  are  generally  very 
fine.  When  the  medal  is  not  deep  cut  a  less 
pressure  may  suffice,  but  when  the  pressure 
is  too  little  the  impression  Trill  be  blunt. 
Gutta-percha  takes  a  coating  of  black  lead 
readily,  and  the  deposit  goes  over  it  easily. 
A  mixture  of  gutta-percha  and  marine  glue 
has  been  recommended  for  moulds  as  superior 
to  gutta-percha  alone.  This  method  of  mould- 
ing by  pressure  is  adopted,  in  principle,  by 
printers,  for  making  electrotype  plates  from 
type  and  engravings,  employing  sheets  of 
prepared  wax,  at  a  temperature  which  gives 
it  the  proper  consistency. 

3682.  To  Mould  the  Face  of  a  Person 
in  Wax.     Take  1  pound  new  wax,  J  pound 
resin,  melt  them  at  a  slow  fire,  let  them  cool 
till  you  can  endure  some  of  it  on  your  hand 
without  burning  it;    then,  having  oiled  the 
face  with  olive  oil,  and  covered  the  hair  of 
the  eye-lids  and  eye-brows  with  paste,  with  a 
brush  nimbly  cover  the  face  about  the  thick- 
ness of  a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  being  careful  not 
to  stop  the  nostrils,  and  that  the  person  does 
not  close  his  eyes  firmly  enough  to  wrinkle 
his  face,  because  that  will  render  the  face  de- 
formed.     Take    the    wax    ofi7    gently,    and 
strengthen  it  with  clay  on  the  back,  that  it 
may  not  give  way.    After  this  manner  you 
may  cast  all  sorts  of  faces;  laughing,  weeping, 
or  wry  faces ;  also  fruits  or  anything  else,  di- 
viding the  mould  into  two  pieces  with  a  warm 
knife ;  then  fortify  them  with  clay  and  join 
them  together. 

3683.  To  Mould  Figures   in  Paste. 
Take  the  crumbs  of  a  new  drawn  white  loaf, 
mould  it  until  it  becomes  as  close  as  wax, 
and  very  pliable ;  beat  it,  and  roll  it  with  a 
rolling-pin,  as  fine  and  as  far  as  it  will  go ; 
then  apply  it  to  the  figure  to  be  moulded;  dry 
it  in  a  stove,  and  it  will  be  very  hard ;  and  to 
preserve  it  from  vermin,  you  may  mix  a  little 
powder  of  aloes  with  it. 

3684.  Composition  for  Taking  Moulds 
of  Medals,  &c.     Melt  together  equal  parts 
of  spermaceti,  stearine  or  hard  tallow,  and 
white  wax.     Or :  Mix  together  by  melting,  £ 
pound  black  resin,  i  pound  hard  tallow,  and 
6  ounces  bees'  wax.     This  last  is  more  adapted 
for  coarse  work,  such  as  architectural  orna- 
ments, <fcc.,  and  is  poured  on  the  object  to  be 
copied  (previously  oiled)  in  a  melted  state. 
Articles    in  plaster  of   Paris  must  be  first 
soaked  in  water,  observing  that  none  remains 
on  the  surface  so  as  to  interfere  with  the  de- 
sign. 

3685.  To  Make  and  Use  Elastic 
Moulding.  The  process  patented  by  Mr. 
Parks  for  taking  a  mould  of  any  kind  of  model 
in  one  piece,  is  excellently  adapted  for  the 
electrotypist.  The  material  is  composed  of 
glue  and  molasses.  12  pounds  glue  are  steeped 
for  several  hours  in  as  much  water  as  will 
moisten  it  thoroughly;  this  is  put  into  a  me- 
tallic vessel,  which  is  placed  in  a  hot  bath  of 
boiling  water.  When  the  glue  falls  into  a 
fluid  state,  3  pounds  of  molasses  are  added, 
and  the  whole  is  well  mixed  by  stirring. 
Suppose,  now,  that  the  mould  of  a  small  bust 
is  wanted,  a  cylindrical  vessel  is  chosen  so 
deep  that  the  bust  may  stand  in  it  an  inch  or 


so  under  the  edge.  The  inside  of  this  vessel 
is  oiled,  a  piece  of  stout  paper  is  pasted  on 
the  bottom  of  the  bust  to  prevent  the  fluid 
mixture  from  going  inside,  and  if  it  is  com- 
posed of  plaster,  sa»d  is  put  inside  to  prevent 
it  from  floating.  It  is  next  completely 
drenched  in  oil  and  placed  upright  in  the  ves- 
sel. This  done,  the  melted  mixture  of  glue 
and  molasses  is  poured  in  till  the  bust  is  sub- 
merged to  the  depth  of  an  inch.  The  whole 
must  stand  for  at  least  24  hours,  till  it  is  per- 
fectly cool  throughout — after  which  it  is  taken 
out  by  inverting  the  vessel  upon  a  table,  when, 
of  course,  the  bottom  of  the  bust  is  presented 
bare.  The  mould  is  now  cut  by  means  of  a 
sharp  knife,  from  the  bottom  up  the  back  of 
the  bust  to  the  front  of  the  head.  It  is  next 
held  open  by  the  operator,  when  an  assistant 
lifts  out  the  bust  and  the  mould  is  allowed  to 
re-close.  A  piece  of  brown  paper  is  tied  round 
it  to  keep  it  firm.  The  operator  has  now  a 
complete  mould  of  the  bust  in  one  piece;  but 
he  cannot  treat  it  like  wax  moulds,  as  its  sub- 
stance is  soluble  in  water,  and  would  be  de- 
stroyed if  put  into  the  solution.  A  mixture 
of  wax  and  resin,  with  occasionally  a  littlo 
suet,  is  melted  and  allowed  to  stand  till  it  is 
on  the  point  of  setting,  when  it  is  poured 
carefully  into  the  mould  and  left  to  cool.  The 
mould  is  then  untied  and  opened  up  as  before ; 
the  wax  bust  is  taken  out,  and  the  mould 
may  be  tied  up  for  other  casts.  Besides  wax 
and  resin,  there  are  several  other  mixtures 
used' — deer's  fat  is  preferable  to  common  suet, 
stearine,  etc.  The  object  is  to  get  a  mixture 
that  takes  a  good  cast  and  becomes  solid  at  a 
heat  less  than  that  which  would  melt  the 
mould. 

3686.  To  Take  Moulds  of  Figures. 
If  the  model  or  figure  be  composed  of  plaster 
of  Paris,  a  mould  is  often  taken  in  copper  by 
deposition.     The  figure  is  saturated  with  wax 
(see  No.  3688),  and  copper  deposited  upon  it 
sufficiently  thick  to  bear  handling  without 
damage  when  taken  from  the  model.     The 
figure  with  the  copper  deposit  is  carefully 
sawn  in  two,  and  then  boiled  in  water,  by 
which  the  plaster  is  softened  and  easily  sepa- 
rated from  the  copper,  which  now  serves  as 
the  mould  in  which  the  deposit  is  to  be  made. 
It  is  prepared  in  the  same  way  as  we  have  de- 
scribed for  depositing  in  copper  moulds.     (See 
No.  3672.)    When  the  deposit  is  made  suffi- 
ciently thick,  the  copper  mould  is  peeled  off, 
and  the  two  halves  of  the  figure  soldered  to- 
gether.   The  copper  moulds  which  are  de- 
posited upon  the  wax  models  taken  in  the 
elastic  moulding  are  often  treated  in  the  same 
manner;   but  more   generally   these  moulds 
are  used  for  depositing  silver  or  gold  into 
them,  to  obtain  fac-similes  of  the  object  in 
these  metals,  in  which  case  the  copper  moulds 
are  dissolved  off"  by  acids. 

3687.  To  Coat  Figures  with  Copper. 
When  plaster  busts  or  figures  are  wanted  in 
copper,  the  usual  way  is  to  prepare  the  figure 
with  wax  (see  No.  3688)  and  to  coat  it  over 
with  a  thin  deposit  of  copper,  letting  the  cop- 
per remain.     Some  operators,  when  it  can  be 
done,  remove  the  plaster  and  wash  over  the 
inside  with  an  alloy  of  tin  and  lead  melted. 
In  this  case  the  copper  must  previously  be 
cleaned  by  washing  first  in  a  solution  of  pot- 
ash, and  then  with  chloride  of  zinc.     The  lat- 


ELECTROTYPING. 


339 


ter  mode  will  cause  the  alloy  to  adhere  to  the 
copper  and  giro  it  strength.  In  either  of 
these  cases  the  deposit  must  not  bo  very  thick, 
or  it  will  throw  the  figures  out  of  proportion, 
such  as  the  features  of  a  bust,  etc.  Any 
slight  roughness  of  deposit  may  bo  easily 
smoothed  down  by  means  of  fine  emery  or 
glass  paper.  (Sec  No.  1935.) 

3688.  To  Prepare  a  Plaster  Cast  for 
Electrotyping.  First  dry  the  plaster  cast 
in  the  oven  thoroughly,  then  get  equal  parts 
of  bees'  wax  and  common  resin,  melt  them 
together,  and  boil  the  cast  until  it  will  not 
absorb  any  more ;  when  cold,  get  some  good 
black  lead  and  cover  the  cast  entirely,  not 
#hick,  but  a  bright  surface.  (Sec  No.  3G89.) 
3889.  To  Prepare  Non-Metallic 
Moulds  to  Receive  Deposit.  "Were  any 
of  the  plaster  or  wax  moulds,  described  above, 
attached  to  the  zinc  and  immersed  in  the  cop- 
per solution  in  the  same  manner  as  described 
iu  N"o.  3369,  no  deposit  would  bo  obtained, 
because  neither  the  plaster  nor  the  wax  is  a 
conductor  of  electricity.  Some  substance 
must  now  be  applied  to  the  surface  in  order 
to  give  it  conducting  power.  There  are  seve- 
ral ways  of  communicating  this  property,  but 
the  best  and  most  simple  for  the  articles  iinder 
consideration  is  to  apply  common  black  lead 
(carburet  of  iron)  in  tho  following  manner: 
A  copper  wire  is  put  round  the  edge  of  the 
medal,  or,  if  wax  moulds  are  used,  a  thin  slip 
of  copper  may  be  inserted  into  the  edgo  of 
the  mould — or,  being  slightly  heated  and  laid 
upon  tho  back,  the  two  will  adhere.  A  fine 
brush  is  now  taken  (a  small  hat  brush  is  very 
suitable)  and  dipped  into  fine  black  lead,  and 
brushed  over  the  surface  of  tho  metal.  The 
brushing  is  to  be  continued  until  all  the  face 
round  to  the  wire  upon  tho  edge,  or  slip  of 
copper  forming  connection,  has  a  complete 
metallic  lustre.  A  bright  polish  is  neces- 
sary to  obtain  a  quick  and  good  deposit. 
In  brushing  on  the  black  lead,  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  allow  any  to  go  upon  the 
back  or  beyond  tho  copper  connection,  or  the 
deposit  will  follow  it,  and  so  cause  a  loss  of 
copper,  and  make  the  mould  more  difficult  to 
separate  from  tho  deposit;  being,  as  it  were, 
incased.  "When  the  face  of  tho  mould  is 
properly  black-leaded,  tho  copper  wire  con- 
nected with  it  is  attached  to  tho  zinc  plate  in 
tho  porous  cell,  and  the  mould  immersed  in 
the  copper  solution ;  the  deposit  will  immedi- 
ately begin  upon  the  copper  connection,  and 
will  soon  spread  over  every  part,  completely 
covering  the  black-lead  surface.  "When  the 
deposit  is  considered  sufficiently  thick  for  re- 
moving— which,  in  ordinary  circumstances, 
will  require  from  1  to  3  days — the  medal  is 
taken  out  of  tho  solution,  and  washed  in  cold 
water,  and  tho  connection  is  taken  off.  If 
the  deposit  has  not  gone  far  over  tho  edgo  of 
the  mould,  the  two  may  bo  separated  by  a 
gentle  pull ;  if  otherwise,  the  superfluous 
deposit  must  be  eased  off,  and  if  care  be  taken 
the  wax  may  bo  fit  to  use  over  again;  but 
when  the  mould  is  plaster  of  Paris,  however 
well  it  may  be  saturated  with  wax,  it  is  sel- 
dom in  a  condition  to  use  again.  If  the 
plaster  mould  be  large  and  thick,  it  is  advisa- 
ble to  coat  the  back  with  wax  or  tallow, 
which  is  done  by  brushing  it  over  with  either 
substance  in  a  melted  state ;  the  mould,  being 


cold,  will  not  absorb  the  wax  or  tallow ;  hence 
it  may  be  recovered  again.  Tho  sulphate  of 
copper  possesses  so  penetrating  a  quality  that 
if  tho  slightest  imperfection  occurs  in  tho 
saturation  of  tho  mould  by  wax,  tho  solution 
will  penetrate  through  it,  and  the  copper 
will  be  deposited  upon  the  face  of  the  object 
adhering  to  tho  plaster,  giving  to  the  metal 
a  rough,  matted  appearance,  and  seriously  in- 
juring it. 

8699.  To  Use  Metal  Moulds.  The 
mould  in  fusible  alloy  does  not  require  to  bo 
black-leaded,  but  the  surface  to  be  electro- 
typed  must  be  prepared  with  turpentine,  &c., 
(see  No.  3673),  and  the  back  and  edgo  must 
bo  protected  by  a  coating  of  wax  or  other 
non-conducting  material ;  it  may  bo  connect- 
ed with  tho  zinc  pole  by  putting  a  wire  round 
its  edgo  previous  to  laying  on  the  non-con- 
ducting substance,  such  as  tallow  or  wax, 
which  should  also  cover  the  wire.  Or  a  slip 
of  copper  or  wire  may  be  laid  upon  the  back, 
and  fastened  by  a  drop  or  two  of  sealing-wax; 
the  back  is  then  coated,  but  care  must  be 
taken  that  tho  wax  does  not  get  between  tho 
connection  and  the  medal,  which  will  prevent 
deposit.  Tho  deposit  on  this  mould  goes  on 
instantaneously.  "When  sufficiently  thick,  it 
may  bo  taken  off  in  the  same  manner  as  from 
the  wax  mould.  These  moulds  may  be  used 
several  times,  if  care  be  taken  not  to  heat 
them,  as  they  easily  melt.  The  medals  ob- 
tained from  metallic  moulds  prepared  with 
the  turpentine  solution  have  a  bright  surface, 
which  is  not  liable  to  change  easily,  but  if  tho 
mould  has  been  prepared  with  oil  or  composed 
of  wax  or  plaster,  the  metal  will  either  bo 
dark,  or  will  very  easily  tarnish.  For  tho 
means  of  preserving  them  by  bronzing  see 
Nos.  3771,  $c. 

3691.  Precautions  on   Putting  the 
Moulds    into    a    Solution.      In    putting 
moulds  into  the  copper  solution,  tho  operator 
is  often  annoyed  by  small  globules  of  air  ad- 
hering to  tho  surface,  which  either  prevent 
the  deposit  taking  place  upon  these  parts,  or, 
when  they  are  very  minute,  permit  tho  de- 
posit   to    grow    over    them — causing    small 
hollows  in  the  mould,  which  give  a  very  ugly 
appearance  to  the  face  of  tho  medal.      To 
obviate  this,  give  tho  mould,  when  newly  put 
into  the  solution,  two  or  three  shakes,  or  give 
tho  wire  attached  to  it,  while  tho  mould  is  in 
the  solution,  a  smart  tap  with  a  key  or  knife, 
or  anything  convenient;  but  the  most  certain 
means  wo  havo  tried,  is  to  moisten  tho  sur- 
face with  alcohol  just  previous  to  putting  it 
into  the  copper  solution.    A  little  practice  in 
these  manipulations  will    soon    enable    the 
operator  to  avoid  these  annoyances. 

3692.  Electrotyping  on  Large  Ob- 
jects.    When  busts  or  figures,  whether  of 
wax  or  plaster  of  Paris,  are  to  bo  coated  with 
copper,  with  no  other  conducting  surface  than 
black-lead,  it  is  attended  with  considerable 
difficulty  to  the  inexperienced  electrotyper. 
Tho  deposit  grows  over  all  the  prominent 
parts,  leaving  hollow  places,  such  as  armpits, 
neck,  etc.,  without  any  deposit;    and  when 
once  missed,  it  requires  3onsiderable  manage- 
ment to  get  these  parts  coated,  as  the  coated 
parts  give  a  sufficient  passage  for  the  current 
of  electricity.     It  is  recommended  by  some 
electrotypists  to  take  out  tho  bust,  and  coat 


340 


ELECTROPLATING. 


the  parts  deposited  upon  the  wax,  to  prevent 
any  further  deposit  on  them ;  but  this  practice 
is  not  good,  especially  with  plaster  of  Paris, 
for  an  electrotype  ought  never  to  be  taken 
out  till  finished.  Sometimes  the  resistance 
of  the  hollow  parts  is  occasioned  by  the  solu- 
tion becoming  exhausted  from  its  position  in 
regard  to  the  positive  pole.  In  this  case  a 
change  of  position  effects  a  remedy.  It  may 
be  remarked  that  when  a  bust  or  any  large 
surface  having  hollow  parts  upon  it,  is  to  be 
electrotyped,  as  many  copper  connections  as 
possible  ought  to  be  made  between  these 
parts  and  the  zinc  of  the  battery.  Let  the 
connections  with  the  hollow  parts  be  made 
with  the  finest  wire  which  can  be  had, 
and  let  the  zinc  plate  in  the  cell  have  a 
large  surface  compared  to  the  surface  of  the 
figure,  and  the  battery  be  of  considerable  in- 
tensity; if  attention  is  paid  to  these  condi- 
tions, the  most  intricate  figures  and  busts 
may  be  covered  over  in  a  few  hours.  Care 
has  to  be  observed  in  taking  off  the  connec- 
tions from  the  deposit,  or  the  operator  may 
tear  off  a  portion  of  the  deposit ;  if  the  wires 
used  are  fine,  they  should  be  cut  off  close  to 
the  deposited  surface. 

3693.  To  Coat  Busts  and  Figures. 
Busts    and    figures,   and  other   complicated 
works  of  art,  which  cannot  be  perfectly  coated 
with  black-lead,  may  be  covered  by  a  film  of 
silver  or  gold,  which  serves  as  a  conducting 
medium  to  the  copper.    This  is  effected  by  a 
solution  of  phosphorus  in  sulphuret  of  carbon. 
The  solution  ot  phosphorus  is  prepared  by 
adding  to  each  pound  of  that  substance  15 
pounds  bisulphuret  of  carbon,  and  then  thor- 
oughly agitating  the  mixture ;   this  solution 
is  applicable  to  various  uses,  and,  amongst 
others,  to  obtaining  deposits  of  metal  upon 
non-metallic  substances,  either  by  combining 
it  with  the  substances  on  which  it  is  to  be 
deposited,  as  in  the  case  of  wax,  or  by  coating 
the  surface  thereof.    Any  of  the  known  pre- 
parations of  wax  may  be  treated  in  this  way, 
but  the  one  preferred  is  composed  of  from  (; 
to  8  ounces  of  the  solution,  5  pounds  wax,  and 
5  pounds  deer's  fat,  melted  together  at  a  low 
heat,  on  account  of  the  inflammable  nature  o1 
the  phosphorus.    The  composition  thus  ob- 
tained is  acted  upon  by  an  electrotyping  solu- 
tion as  readily  as  if  it  were  coated  with  the 
black-lead. 

3694.  To  Gild  or  Silver-Plate  Flow- 
ers, &c.     If  the  solution  of  phosphorus  (see 
No.  3693)  is  to  be  applied  to  the  surface  of  the 
article,  an  addition  is  made  to  it  of  1  pounc 
wax  or  tallow,  1  pint  spirits  of  turpentine, 
and  2  ounces  pure  India-rubber  (dissolved 
with  1  pound  asphalt,  in  bisulphuret  of  car- 
bon), for  every  pound  phosphorus  contained 
in  the  solution.    The  wax  and  tallow  being 
first  melted,  the  solution  of  India-rubber  anc 

'  asphalt  is  stirred  in ;  then  the  turpentine,  anc 
after  that  the  solution  of  phosphorus  is  added 
The  solution  prepared  in  this  manner  is  ap 
plied  to  the  surfaces  of  non-metallic  sub 
stances,  such  as  wood,  flowers,  etc.,  by  im 
mersion  or  brushing ;  the  article  is  then  im 
mersed  in  a  dilute  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver 
or  chloride  of  gold ;  in  a  few  minutes  the  sur 
face  is  covered  with  a  fine  film  of  metal 
sufficient  to  ensure  a  deposit  of  any  requirec 
thickness  on  the  article  being  connected  with 


any  of  the  electrical  apparatus  at  present  em- 
)loyed  for  coating  articles  with  metal.     The 
solution  intended  to  be  used  is  prepared  by 
dissolving  4  ounces  silver  in  nitric  acid,  and 
afterwards  diluting  the  same  with  12  gallons 
water ;  the  gold  solution  is  formed  by  dissolv- 
ng  1  ounce  gold  in  nitre-muriatic  acid  (aqua 
regia),  and  then  diluting  it  with  10  gallons 
water.    The  solutions  of  silver  and  gold,  pre- 
pared as  above,  will  last  for  a  long  time,  and 
serve  for  a  great  many  articles.    When  it  is 
convenient  it  is  best  to  use  both  solutions. 
The  connecting  wire  should  first  be  attached 
;o  the  article  to  be  coated,  before  being  dipped 
into  the  phosphorus  solution,  but  connected 
at  such  parts  as  will  not  hurt  the  appearancdp 
of  the  object  by  leaving  a  mark  when  it  is 
taken  off.     Care  should  be  taken  not  to  touch 
the  article  with  the  hands  after  it  is  dipped 
into  the  solution.     The  object  supported  by 
the  connections  is  immersed  in  the  phosphorus 
solution,  where  it  remains  for  two  or  three 
minutes.     "When  taken  out  it  is  dipped  into 
the  silver  solution,  and,  as  soon  as  the  surface 
becomes  black,  having  the  appearance  of  a 
piece  of  black  china,  it  is  to  be  dipped  several 
times  in  distilled  water,  and  then  immersed 
in  the  solution  of  gold  about  three  minutes ; 
the  surface  takes  a  bronze  tinge  by  the  re- 
duction of  the   gold.     It  is  next  washed  in 
distilled  water  by  merely  dipping,   not   by 
throwing  water  upon  it.     The  wire  connection 
is  now  attached  to  the  zinc  of  the  battery, 
and  then  the  article  put  into  the  copper  solu- 
tion, and  in  a  few  minutes  the  article  is  coated 
over  with  a  deposit  of  copper.     A  thin  cppper 
surface  may  thus  be  given  to  small  busts  or 
figures  without  sensibly  distorting  the  features. 
3695.     Electrotyping  on  "Wood.     Dip 
the  wood  in  melted  wax,  then  brush  over 
with  black-lead  until  polished ;  insert  a  wire  of 
copper,  and  see  that  it  is  also  covered  with  the 
plumbago,  and  in  contact  with  that  already 
on  the  wood;  now  attach  to  the  pole  of  the 
battery,  and  immerse  in  the  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  copper.     The  battery  should  not  be 
too  strong. 


The  foregoing 
•  J  matter  refers  to  electrotyping,  that  is, 
copper-coating,  by  galvanism.  Electroplating, 
or  coating  with  silver,  is  conducted  in  a  simi- 
lar manner  to  electrotyping  as  far  as  general 
principles  and  manipulation  are  concerned, 
but  differs  in  the  solutions  used,  as  well  as  in 
the  preparation  of  the  objects  to  be  electro- 
plated. 

3697.  To  Prepare  Cyanide  of  Silver. 
First  dissolve  1  ounce  pure  silver  in  2  ounces 
nitric  acid  and  2  ounpcs  hot  water,  after 
which  further  dilute  with  1  quart  hot  water. 
The  propriety  of  diluting  the  nitrate  of  silver 
before  precipitating  by  the  cyanide  of  po- 
tassium arises  from  the  fact  that  the  salts  of 
potash  and  soda  (such  as  the  nitrates,  chlor- 
ides, and  sulphates),  when  in  strong  solution, 
dissolve  small  quantities  of  the  silver  salt, 
and  thus  cause  a  loss,  which  is  prevented  by 
previous  dilution  with  water.  The  nitric  r.cid 
used  must  be  free  from  hydrochloric  (muri- 
atic) acid;  to  a  small  quantity  of  the  acid  add 
a  few  drops  of  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  •, 


ELECTEOPLA TING. 


if  it  gives  a  milky  white  precipitate,  it  con- 
tains muriatic  acid,  and  should  be  rejected. 
Then  dissolve  5  ounces  cyanide  of  potassium 
in  1  quart  water.  Add  this  by  degrees  to  the 
silver  solution  until  the  whole  of  the  silver  it 
precipitated,  which  may  be  tested  thus  :  Stir 
the  mixture  and  allow  it  to  settle ;  then  drop 
into  the  clear  liquid  a  very  smaH  quantity  of 
the  second  preparation,  from  the  end  of  a  glass 
rod ;  if  the  clear  liquid  is  rendered  turbid,  it 
is  a  proof  that  the  whole  of  the  silver  is  not 
separated ;  but  if  the  liquid  remains  un- 
changed, it  shows  that  the  silver  is  entirely 
separated.  The  clear  liquid  is  then  to  be 
poured  off,  and  the  precipitate,  which  is  cyan- 
ide of  silver,  washed  at  least  4  times  in  hot 
water,  dried  and  bottled  for  use.  The  use 
and  handling  of  cyanide  of  potassium  requires 
great  caution,  as  11  grains  of  it  are  sufficient 
to  kill  a  grown  person.  The  fumes  thrown 
off  while  dissolving  the  silver  in  nitric  acid 
are  also  highly  deleterious,  and  must  not  be 
inhaled ;  it  is  better,  therefore,  not  to  dissolve 
silver  in  a  close  room. 

3698.  To  Make  Silver  Solution.    The 
solution  of  silver  used  for  plating  consists  of 
cyanide  of  silver  dissolved  in  potassium,  add- 
ing a  solution  of  cyanide  of  potassium  to  the 
cyanide  of  silver  until  it  is  all  dissolved.    The 
resulting  solution  constitutes  the  cyanide  of 
potassium  and  silver,  and  forms  the  plating 
solution.     It  ought  to  be  filtered  previous  to 
using,  as  there  is  always  formed  a  black  sedi- 
ment, composed  of  iron,  silver,  and  cyanogen, 
which,  if  left  in  the  solution,  would  fall  upon 
the  surface  of  the  article  receiving  the  deposit, 
and  make  it  rough.     The  sediment,  however, 
must  not  be  thrown  away,  as  it  contains  sil- 
ver.    The  cyanide  of  potassium,  used  to  dis- 
solve the  cyanide  of  silver,  may  be  so  diluted 
that  the  plating  solution,  when  formed,  shall 
contain  1  ounce  of  silver  in  the  gallon ;  of 
course  the  proportion  of  silver  may  be  larger 
or  smaller,  but  that  given  is  best  for  plating. 
In  dissolving  100  ounces  of  silver,  the  follow- 
ing proportions  of  each  ingredient  are  those 
which  have  been  found  in  practice  to  be  the 
best.     Take  7  pounds  of  the  best  nitric  acid, 
and  61  ounces  of  cyanide  of  potassium,  of  the 
average  quality;  this  quantity  will  precipitate 
the  100  ounces  of  silver  dissolved  in  the  acid 
solution.     After  this  is  washed,  take  62  oun- 
ces more  of  cyanide  of  potassium,  the  solution 
of  which  will  dissolve  the  precipitate;   this 
being  done,  the  plating  solution  is  then  form- 
ed.     Of  course  these  proportions  will  \iary 
according  to  the  difference  in  the  quality  of 
the  materials ;  but  they  will  serve  to  give  an 
idea  of  the  cost  of  the  silver  solution  prepared 
in  this  manner. 

3699.  To  Dissolve  Cyanide  of  Silver 
in  Yellow  Prussiate  of  Potash.     Dissolve 
the  cyanide  of  silver  by  yellow  prussiato  of 
potash  (ferrocyanido  of  potassium),  3  pounds 
of  which  are  required  to  dissolve  1  ounce  of 
silver.     This  forms  an  excellent  plating  solu- 
tion, and  yields  a  beautiful  surface  of  silver. 
It  must  have  a  weak  battery  power,  and  con- 
sequently the  silver  is  very  soft.     The  posi- 
tive electrode  does  not  dissolve  in  this  solution ; 
there  is  formed  upon  its  surface  a  white  scaly 
crust,  which  drops  off  and  falls  to  the  bottom; 
and  the  solution  soon  becomes  exhausted  of 
silver,  and  will  need  to  be  renewed. 


3700.  Solution  Made  with  Oxide  of 
Silver.     A  good  silver  solution  for  electro- 
plating white  metal  and  brass  is  made  by  dis- 
solving 1  part  oxide  of  silver  in  8  parts  cyanide 
of  potassium  and  64  parts  warm  water.     Ox- 
ide of  silver  is  made  by  precipitating  a  solu- 
tion of  the  nitrate  by  a  dissolved  alkali  like 
potassa  or  baryta. 

3701.  To  Make    Silver  Solution  by 
the    Battery.       The    best    and    cheapest 
method  of  making  up  the  silver  solution  is  by 
the  battery,  which  saves  all  expense  of  acids 
and  the  labor  of  precipitation.     To  prepare  a 
silver  solution  which  is  intended  to  have  an 
ounce  of  silver  to  the  gallon,  dissolve  123 
ounces  cyanide  of  potassium  in  100  gallons 
water;    get  one  or  two  flat  porous  vessels, 
submerge  them  in  this  solution  to  within  half 
an  inch  of  the  rim,  and  fill  them  to  the  same 
height  with  the  solution ;    in  these  porous 
vessels  place  small  plates  or  sheets  of  iron  or 
copper,  and  connect  them  with  the  zinc  pole 
of  a  battery;    in  the  solution  outside    the 
shallow  vessels  place  a  sheet  or  sheets  of 
silver  connected  with  the  silver  pole  of  the 
battery.     This  arrangement  being  made  at 
night,    a,nd  the    power    employed    being    a 
Smee's  .battery  of  6  cells,  the  zincs  7  inches 
square,   it  will    be   found    in    the   morning 
that  there  will  bo  dissolved  60  to  80  ounces 
of  silver  from  the  sheets.     The  solution  is  now 
ready  for  use;    and  by  observing  that  the 
articles  to  be  plated  have  less  surface  than 
the  silver  plate  forming  the  positive  electrode, 
for  the  first  two  days,  the  solution  will  then 
have  the  proper  quantity  of  silver  in  it.     Oc- 
casionally a    little    silver    is  found    in    the 
porous  cell;  it  is  therefore  not  advisable  to 
throw  away  the  solution  in  them  without 
first  testing  it  for  silver,  which  is  done  by 
adding  a  little  muriatic  acid  to  it.     The  ama- 
teur electrotypist  may,  from  this  description, 
make-up  a  small  quantity  of  solution  for  sil- 
vering his  medals  or  figures.     For  example,  a 
half-ounce  of  silver  to  the  gallon  of  solution 
will  do  very  well;  a  small  quantity  may  bo 
prepared  in  little  more  than  an  hour.     As  the 
cyanide  of  potassium  dissolves  silver  without 
the  aid  of  a  battery,  a  plating  liquor  may  be 
formed  by  merely  allowing  a  piece  of  silver  to 
steep  in  this  solution  for  a  few  days ;  but  this 
is  tedious  and  uncertain,  although  for  small 
operations,  arid  where  porous  vessels  are  not 
convenient,  it  will  serve  the  purpose. 

3702.  To  Recover  Silver  from  Solu- 
tion.     When  a  silver  solution  gets   out   of 
order,   and  cannot  bo  rendered   fit  for  use 
again,  the  silver  may  bo  recovered  by  adding 
to  the  solution  any  acid  that  will  neutralize 
the  alkali;  if  nitric  or  sulphuric  acid  be  used, 
the  silver  precipitates  as  cyanide,  but  if  hydro- 
chloric acid  be  used,  the"  silver  will  be  pre- 
cipitated as   a  chloride;    in  cither  case   the 
solution  should  be  diluted,  or  a  portion  of  the 
precipitate  will  bo  redissolved.     The  precipi- 
tate is  allowed  to  deposit,  the  clear  liquor  de- 
canted, and  the  vessel  filled  with  water  to 
wash  the  precipitate,  which  is  afterwards  col- 
lected upon  a  filter  and  dried,  and  then  mixed 
with  twice  its  weight  cf  carbonate  of  potash, 
and  fused  in  a  Hessian  crucible  for  15  min- 
utes, or  until  the  fused  fluid  ceases  to  ef 
fervesce.      On  removing    the    crucible,   and 
pouring  the  whole  into  an  iron  ladle,  when 


342 


ELECTROPLATING. 


cool  the  silver  will  bo  found  in  the  metallic 
state  at  the  bottom  of  the  ladle.  In  these 
operations,  when  pouring  the  acid  into  the 
cyanide  solution,  great  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  inhale  the  fumes  given  off,  which  are 
very  abundant  and  poisonous.  The  operation 
should  bo  done  in  the  open  air,  and  even  then 
it  is  bad.  Instead  of  throwing  down  the 
silver  by  an  acid,  it  is  better  to  evaporate  the 
solution  to  dryness,  and  to  fuse  the  product 
as  described  ;  in  which  case  the  cyanide  is  an 
excellent  reducing  flux,  requiring  no  addition 
of  carbonate  of  potash,  and  saves  the  necessity 
of  evolving  poisonous  fumes. 

3703.  Test  for  Free  Cyanide  of  Po- 
tassium, in  Solutions.     If  wo  dissolve  a 
small  quantity  of  sulphate  of  copper  and  add 
to  it  an  excess  of  ammonia,  there  is  produced 
a  deep  blue  color.    Cyanide  of  potassium  will 
destroy  the  blue  color,  in  a  nxed  chemical 
proportion.     To  obtain  this  proportion,  take 
ten  grains  of  pure  cyanide  of  potassium  amd 
dissolve  in  water ;  then  take  a  certain  quan- 
tity, say  100  grains,  of  sulphate  of  copper,  and 
convert  it  into  ammoniuret,  the  whole  meas- 
uring a  given  quantity,  and  pour  from  an 
alkalimeter  this  blue  liquor  into  the  cyanide 
of  potassium  till  it  ceases  to  destroy  the  color, 
then  mark  the  number  of  graduations  required, 
and  that  amount  of  copper  solution  will  rep- 
resent 10  grains  cyanide  of  potassium  —  a 
quantitative  test  will  thus  be  got  for  the  full 
cyanide  of  potassium  in  the  solution,   and 
should  bo  used  as  follows :  Say  that  the  color 
of  GO  graduations  of  the  blue  solution  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  10  grains  of  cyanide  of  potas- 
sium ;  then,  to  test  the  quantity  of  free  cyanide 
of  potassium  in  the  plating  solution,  take  60 
graduations  of  the  blue  liquor  in  any  conve- 
nient vessel,  and  add  to  it  from  an  alkalimeter 
the  plating  solution,  till  the  color  of  the  blue 
liquor  is  destroyed,  then  note  the  quantity 
which  contains  10  grains  free  cyanide,  from 
which  the  quantity  in  the  whole  solution  may 
be  calculated. 

3704.  Test  for  the  Quantity  of  Free 
Cyanide  of  Potassium,  in  Solutions.    It 
has  been  already  mentioned  that  the  cyanide 
of  silver,  as  it  forms  upon  the  surface  of  the 
silver  plate,  is  dissolved  by  the  cyanide  of 
potassium.     This  renders  it  necessary  to  have 
always  in  the  solution  free  cyanide  of  po- 
tassium.   "Were  we  to  use  the  pure  crystalline 
salt  of  cyanide  of  potassium  and  silver,  dis- 
solved in  water,  without  any  free  cyanide  of 
potassium,  we  should  not  obtain  a  deposit  be- 
yond a  momentary  blush,  as  the  silver  plate 
or  electrode  would  get  an  instantaneous  coat- 
ing of  cyanide  of  silver,  and  this  not  being 
dissolved,   the    current    would    stop.       The 
quantity  of  free  cyanide  of  potassium  required 
in    the    solution    varies    according    to    the 
amount  of  silver  that  is  present,   and    the 
rapidity  of  the  deposition.    If  there  be  too 
little  of  it,  the  deposit  will  go  on  slowly ;  if 
there  be  too  much,  the  silver  plate  will  be  dis- 
solved in  greater  proportion  than  the  quantity 
deposited,  and  the  solution  will  consequently 
get  stronger.     The  proportion  we  have  found 
best  is  about  half  by  weight  of  free  cyanide  of 
potassium  to  the  quantity  of  silver  in  solu- 
tion;  thus,  if  the  solution  contains  2  ounces 
of  silver  to  the  gallon,  it  should  have  1  ounce 
of  free  cyanide  of  potassium  per  gallon.    This 


is  known  by  taking  some  nitrate  of  silver, 
dissolving  it  in  distilled  water  and  placing  it 
in  a  common  alkalimeter  (see  No.  82),  gradu- 
ated into  100  parts.  The  proportion  of  the 
nitrate  of  silver  in  the  solution  is  to  be  such 
that  every  two  graduations  of  the  solution 
should  contain  1  grain.  A  given  quantity  of 
tho  plating  solution  is  now  taken — say  1 
ounce  by  measure,  and  the  test  solution  of 
nitrate  of  silver  is  added  to  it  by  degrees,  so 
long  as  the  precipitate  formed  is  redissolved. 
When  this  ceases  tho  number  of  graduations 
is  then  noted,  and  tho  following  equation 
gives  the  quantity  of  free  cyanide.  Every 
175  nitrate  of  silver  are  equal  to  130  cyaiiido 
of  potassium  in  solution.  Suppose  20  gradu- 
ations were  taken,  equal  to  10  grains  nitrate 
of  silver,  then  175  :  130  : :  10  :  7.4  grains  free 
cyanide  of  potassium.  This,  multiplied  by 
160,  tho  number  of  fluid  ounces  per  gallon, 
will  make  about  2i  ounces.  We  have  taken 
2  graduations  to  1  grain  of  nitrate  of  silver, 
that  tho  solution  may  be  considerably  dilute 
and  less  liable  to  error.  The  following  table 
is  calculated  at  a  half  grain  nitrate  of  silver  to 
the  graduation,  and  will  be  a  guide  to  the 
student  or  workman.  The  quantity  of  solu- 
tion tested  is  1  ounce  by  measure. 


Number  of 
graduations  used. 

Frcocyanido  per  gallon. 

oz. 

dwt. 

gr- 

1 

0 

2 

13 

2 

0 

5 

3 

3 

0 

7 

16 

4 

0 

10 

6 

5 

0 

12 

19 

6 

0 

15 

9 

7 

0 

17 

22 

8 

1 

0 

13 

9 

1 

3 

1 

10 

1 

5 

12 

11 

1 

8 

5 

12 

1 

10 

19 

13 

1 

13 

8 

14 

1 

15 

22 

15 

1 

18 

11 

16 

2 

1 

2 

17 

a 

3 

14 

18 

2 

6 

2 

19 

2 

8 

11 

20 

2 

11 

0 

3705.  To  Cleanse  Articles  for  Electro- 
plating. Articles  that  are  to  be  plated  are 
first  boiled  in  an  alkaline  lye,  to  free  them  from 
grease,  then  washed  from  the  ]yc,  and  dipped 
into  dilute  nitric  acid,  which  removes  any 
oxide  that  may  be  formed  upon  the  surface ; 
they  arc  afterwards  brushed  over  with  a  bard 
brush  and  fine  sand.  (See  No.  3381.)  The 
alkaline  lye  should  be  in  a  caustic  state,  which 
is  easily  effected  by  boiling  tho  carbonated 
alkali  with  slacked  lime,  until,  on  the  addition 
of  a  little  acid  to  a  small  drop  of  the  solution, 
no  effervescence  occurs.  (See  No.  101.)  The 
lime  is  then  allowed  to  settle,  and  the  clear 
liquor  is  fit  for  use.  The  lye  should  have 
about  ^  pound  soda-ash,  or  pearl-ash,  to  the 
gallon  of  water.  The  nitric  acid,  into  which 
the  article  is  dipped,  may  be  diluted  to  nuch 
an  extent  that  it  will  merely  act  upon  the 
metal.  Any  old  acid  will  do  for  this  purpose. 
In  large  factories  the  acid  used  for  dipping 


ELECTROPLA TING. 


343 


before  plating  is  generally    afterwards  em- 
ployed for  the  above  purpose  of  cleaning. 

3706.  To  Prepare  Articles  for  the 
Decomposing  Cell.  The  article  being  thor- 
oughly cleaned  and  dried,  has  a  copper  wire 
attached  to  it,  either  by  twisting  it  round  the 
article  or  putting  it  through  any  open  part  of 
it,  to  maintain  it  in  suspension.  It  is  then 
dipped  into  nitric  acid  as  quickly  as  possible, 
and  washed  through  water,  and  then  immersed 
in  the  decomposing  cell  containing  silver  solu- 
tion, suspending  it  by  the  wire  which  con- 
nects with  the  zinc  pole  of  the  battery.  The 
nitric  acid  generally  used  and  found  best  for 
dipping  has  a  specific  gravity  1.518,  and  con- 
tains 10  per  cent,  sulphuric  acid.  The  article 
is  instantaneously  coated  with  silver,  and 
ought  to  be  taken  out  after  a  few  seconds  and 
well  brushed.  On  a  largo  scale,  brushes  of 
brass  wire  attached  to  a  lathe  are  used  for  this 
purpose ;  but  a  hard  hair  brush  with  a  little 
fine  sand  will  do  for  small  work.  This  brush- 
ing is  used  in  case  any  particle  of  foreign 
matter  may  be  still  on  the  surface.  It  is  then 
replaced  in  the  solution,  and  in  the  course  of 
a  few  hours  a  coating  of  the  thickness  of 
tissue  paper  is  deposited  on  it,  having  the 
beautiful  matted  appearance  of  dead  silver. 
Any  thickness  of  silver  may  be  given  to  a 
plate  by  continuing  the  operation  a  proper 
length  of  time.  1J  to  li  ounces  of  silver  to 
the  square  foot  of  surface  will  give  an  excel- 
lent plate  about  the  thickness  of  ordinary 
writing  paper.  "We  may  remark  that,  in  de- 
positing silver  from  the  solution,  a  weak 
battery  may  be  used ;  though  when  the  bat- 
tery is  weak  the  silver  deposited  is  soft,  but  if 
used  as  strong  as  the  solution  will  allow,  the 
silver  will  be  equal  in  hardness  to  rolled  or 
hammered  silver.  If  the  battery  is  stronger 
than  the  solution  will  stand,  or  the  article 
very  small  compared  to  the  size  of  the  plate 
of  silver  forming  the  positive  electrode,  the 
silver  will  be  deposited  as  a  powder.  Gas 
should  never  be  seen  escaping  from  either 
pole;  and  the  surface  of  the  article  should 
always  correspond  as  nearly  as  possible  with 
that  of  the  positive  electrode,  otherwise  the 
deposit  runs  the  risk  of  not  being  good;  it 
requires  more  care,  and  the  solution  is  apt  to 
be  altered  in  strength,  because  if  the  positive 
electrode  be  large  compared  with  the  negative, 
the  solution  will  become  stronger  in  silver, 
while  if  smaller  in  proportion  the  solution 
will  become  exhausted  of  silver. 

3707.  To  Silver-plate  Large  Articles 
(such  as  those  plated  in  factories),  it  is  not 
always  sufficient  to  dip  them  in  nitric  acid; 
wash  and  immerse  them  iu  the  solution,  in 
order  to  effect  a  perfect  adhesion  of  the  two 
metals.  To  secure  this,  a  small  portion  of 
quicksilver  is  dissolved  in  nitric  acid,  and  a 
little  of  this  solution  is  added  to  water,  in 
sufficient  quantity  to  enable  it  to  give  a  white 
silvery  tint  to  a  piece  of  copper  when  dipped 
into  it;  the  article  then,  whether  made  of 
copper,  brass,  or  German  silver,  after  being 
dipped  in  the  nitric  acid  and  washed,  is  dip- 
ped into  the  nitrate  of  mercury  solution  till 
the  surface  is  white;  it  is  then  well  washed 
by  plunging  it  into  two  separate  vessels  con- 
taining clean  water,  and  finally  put  into  the 
plating  solution.  This  secures  perfect  adhe- 
sion of  the  metals.  One  ounce  of  quicksilver 


thus  dissolved  will  do  for  a  long  time,  though 
the  liquor  is  used  every  day.  When  the 
mercury  in  this  solution  is  exhausted,  it  is 
liable  to  turn  the  article  black  upon  being 
dipped  into  it;  this  must  be  avoided,  as  in 
that  case  it  also  causes  the  deposited  metal  to 
strip  off. 

3708.  To  Preserve  the  Dead,  Matted 
Appearance  of  Silver  after  Electropla- 
ting.    If  it  is  desired  to  preserve  the  surface 
in  this  condition,  the  article  must  be  taken 
out  of  the  electroplating  solution,  care  being 
taken  not  to  touch  it  by  the  hand,  and  im- 
mersed in  boiling  distilled  water  for  a  few 
minutes.   On  being  withdrawn,  sufficient  heat 
has  been  imparted  to  the  metal  to  dry  it  in- 
stantly.    If  it  is  a  medal,  it  ought  to  be  put 
in  an  air-tight  frame  immediately,   or  if  a 
figure,  it  may  be  at  once  placed  under  a  glass 
shade,  as  a  very  few  days'  exposure  to  the  air 
tarnishes  it,  by  the  formation  of  snlphuret  of 
silver,  especially  in  a  room  where  there  is  fire 
or  gas. 

3709.  To  Remove  the  Chalky  Ap- 
pearance of  Silver  after. Plating.     When 
articles   are   taken  out  of  the  electroplating 
solution  they  are  swilled  in  water,  and  then 
put  into  boiling  water.     They  are  afterwards 
put  into  hot  sawdust,  which  dries  them  per- 
fectly.    Their  color  is  chalk-white.     They  are 
generally    weighed    before    being     scratch- 
brushed  ;    that  is,   brushed    with    fine    wire 
brushes  (see  Nos.  3381  and  3706),  and  old  ale, 
beer,  or  water  containing  in  solution  a  little 
gum,  glue,  or  sugar,  but  the  amateur  may 
use  a  hard  hair  brush.     It  may  be  afterwards 
burnished  according  to  the  usual  method  of 
burnishing,  by  rubbing  the  surface  with  con- 
siderable pressure  with  polished  steel  or  the 
mineral  termed  bloodstone.     Although    this 
operation  does  not  displace  any  of  the  silver, 
still,  in  taking  off 'the  chalky  appearance, 
there  is  a  slight  loss  of  weight.    The  appear- 
ance after  scratching  is  that  of  bright  metallic 
silver. 

3710.  To  Increase  the  Brightness  of 
the  Deposit.     A  little  sulphuret  of  carbon 
added   to   the  plating  solution  prevents  the 
chalky  appearance,  and  gives  the  deposit  the 
appearance  of  metallic  silver;   the  reaction 
which  takes  place  in  this  mixture  is  not  yet 
understood.    The  best  method  of  applying  the 
sulphuret  of  carbon  is  to  put  one  or  two  oun- 

es  into  a  largo  bottle,  then  fill  it  with  strong 
silver  solution  having  an  excess  of  cyanide  of 
potassium,  and  let  it  repose  for  several  days, 
shaking  it  occasionally.  '  A  little  of  this  sil- 
ver solution  is  added,  as  required,  to  this  pla- 
ting solution,  which  will  givo  the  articles  plated 
the  same  appearance  as  if  scratched.  It  is 
also  found  that  the  presence  of  sulphuret  of 
carbon  prevents  the  solution  from  going  out 
of  order ;  indeed,  we  have  seen  a  solution  that 
lias  been  constantly  working  from  two  to 
three  years,  while,  generally,  they  were  sub- 
ject to  go  out  of  order  for  a  time,  in  less  than 
one  year — although,  after  standing  a  time, 
they  would  recover — but  these  are  curious  re- 
actions not  yet  investigated. 

3711.  To  Insure  Success  in  the  Elec- 
troplating Process.      Iu    order  to  insure 
success  iu  silver-plating  upon  metals  and  me- 
tallic  alloys,  two  solutions  of  silver  are  re- 
quisite ;  the  first,  to  whiten  or  fix  the  silver 


34=4= 


ELECTROPLATING. 


to  such  metals  as  iron,  steel,  britannia  metal, 
and  German  silver ;  the  second,  to  finish  the 
work,  as  any  amount  of  pure  silver  can  be  de- 
posited from  the  second  solution. 

3712.  First,  or  Whitening  Solution. 
Dissolve  2£  troy  pounds  cyanide  of  potassium, 
8  ounces  carbonate  of  soda,  and  5  ounces 
cyanide  of  silver  in  1  gallon  rain  or  distilled 
water.     This  solution  should  be  used  with  a 
compound  battery  of  3  to  10  pairs,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  work  to  be  platad.     The  use 
of  this  solution  will  insure  the  adhesion  of  sil- 
ver to  all  kinds  of  brass,  bronze,  type  metal, 
&c.,  without  employing  mercury,  the  frequent 
use  of  which  is  injurious  to  the  health  of  the 
operator. 

3713.  Second,  or  Finishing  Solution. 
Dissolve  4£  troy  ounces  cyanide  of  potassium, 
and  H  ounces  cyanide  of  silver,  in  1  gallon 
rain  or  distilled  water.     This  solution  should 
be  used  with  one  large  cell  of  Smee's  battery, 
observing  that  the  silver  plate  is  placed  as 
near  the  surface  of  the  articles  to  be  plated  as 
possible. 

3714.  Boettger>s  Test  for  the  Silver 
on  Silver-Plated  Metals.     The  test  fluid 
consists  of  a  saturated  solution  of  bichromate 
of  potassa  in  nitric  acid,  specific  gravity  1.2. 
Any  dirt  or  varnish  having  been  removed  by 
strong  alcohol  from  the  metallic  surface  to  be 
tested,  a  drop  of  the  test  fluid  is  applied  to  it 
by  means  of  a  glass  rod,  and  immediately 
afterwards  washed  off  with  some  cold  water. 
If  pure  silver  is  present  (as  regards  silver 
coins,  these  are  left  in  contact  with  the  test 
fluid  for  a  greater  length  of  time),  there  will 
appear    clearly    a    blood-red    colored    mark 
(chromate  of  silver).     Upon  German  silver 
the  test  liquid  appears  brown,  but  after  wash- 
ing with  water  the  blood-red  colored  mark 
does  not  appear ;  the  so-called  britannia-metal 
is  colored  black ;  on  platinum  no  action  is  vis- 
ible ;  metallic  surfaces  coated  with  an  amal- 
gam of  mercury  yield  a  reddish  speck,  which, 
however,  is  entirely  washed  off  by  water;  on 
lead  and  bismuth  the  test  liquid  forms  a  yel- 
low-colored   precipitate;    zinc    and    tin    are 
both  strongly  acted  upon  by  this  test  liquid, 
which,  as  regards  the  former  metal,  is  en- 
tirely removed  by  water,   while,   as  regards 
the  latter,  the  test  liquid  is  colored  brown- 
ish, and  addition  of  water  produces  a  yellow 
precipitate  which  somewhat  adheres  to  the 
tin. 

3715.  Plating  on  Iron  or  Steel.    Take 
2  quarts  rain  water,  dissolve  2  pounds  cyanide 
of  potassium,  and  filter.     In  order  to  plate 
steel  or  iron,  dip  it  into  pure  sulphuric  acid 
for  one  minute,  then  clean  with  pumice  stone, 
and  brush;  rinse,  and  hang  in  solution  of 
cyanide  of  potassium  for  three  minutes,  or 
until  it  becomes  white;  then  hang  in  silver 
solution  until  plated  heavv  enough.    (See  No. 
3698.) 

3716.  Taking  Silver  from    Copper, 
Etc.    First  by  stripping  or  dissolving  it  off; 
this  is  done  by  putting  into  a  stoneware  or 
copper  pan  some  strong  sulphuric  acid  (vit- 
riol), to  which  a  little  nitrate  of  potassa  is 
added;  the  article  is  laid  into  this  solution, 
which  will  dissolve  the  silver  without  materi- 
ally affecting  the  copper ;  nitrate  of  potassa 
is  added  by  degrees,  as  occasion  requires ;  and 
if  the  action  is  slow  a  little  heat  is  applied  to 


the  vessel.  The  silver  being  removed,  the 
article  is  well  washed  and  then  passed  through 
the  potash  solution,  and  finished  for  plating. 
When  the  sulphuric  acid  becomes  saturated 
with  silver  it  is  diluted,  and  the  sSver  is  pre- 
cipitated by  a  solution  of  common  salt ;  the 
chloride  of  silver  formed  is  collected  and  fused 
in  a  crucible  with  carbonate  of  potash,  when 
the  silver  is.  obtained  in  a  metallic  state,  as  a 
knob  or  button.  The  crucible  should  not  be 
over  two-thirds  full,  and  should  be  kept  in  fu- 
sion till  effervescence  ceases.  The  crucible  is 
then  removed  from  the  fire,  and,  when  cool,  it 
is  broken.  (See  No.  3702.)  The  article  thus 
stripped  by  acids  often  shows  a  little  rough- 
ness, not  from  the  effects  of  the  acid,  but  be- 
cause the  copper  under  the  silver  has  not 
been  polished ;  it  is  therefore  a  necessary 
practice  in  the  electroplating  factories  to  pol- 
ish the  articles  before  plating.  This  is  done 
by  means  of  a  circular  brush,  more  or  less 
hard  as  required,  fixed  upon  a  lathe,  and  a  thin 
paste  made  of  oil  and  pumice-stone  ground  as 
fine  as  flour.  By  this  process  the  surface  of 
any  article  can  be  smoothed  and  polished ; 
but  a  little  experience  is  required  to  ensure 
success,  and  enable  the  operator  to  polish  the 
surface  equally  without  leaving  brush  marks. 
After  this  the  article  must  be  cleaned  in  pot- 
ash before  it  is  plated. 

3717.  To  Recover  Silver  from  Copper. 
Instead  of  stripping  off  the  silver  by  means 
of  acid,  as  in  No.  3716,  it  is  a  more  common 
and  preferable  mode  to  brush  off  the  silver 
by  the  operation  just  described.     In  this  case 
the  brushings  must  be  collected,  dried,. and 
burned;   this  may  be  done  in  an  iron   pan. 
keeping  it  at  a  red  heat  until  all  carbonaceous 
matters  are  consumed  ;  the  remainder  is  fused 
with  carbonate  of  soda  or  potash,  when  the 
silver  is  obtained,  in  combination  with  a  little 
copper. 

3718.  Cyanide  of  Silver  and  Potas- 
sium,   its    Decomposition    During    the 
Plating  Process.     The  silver  salt  in  the 
plating  solution  is  a  true  double  salt,  being, 
as  already  described,  a  compound  of  1  equi- 
valent of  cyanide  of  silver,  and  1  of  cj-am'de  of 
potassium — two  distinct  salts.     In  the  decom- 
position of  the  silver  solution  by  the  electric 
current,  the  former,  cyanide  of  silver,  is  alone 
affected:    the  silver  is    deposited,   and    the 
cyanogen  passes  to  the  positive  plate  or  elec- 
trode.    The  cyanide  of  potassium  is  therefore 
set  at  liberty  upon  the  surface  of  the  article 
receiving  the  silver  deposit,  and  its  solution, 
being  specifically  lighter  than  the    general 
mass  of  the  plating  solution,  rise#  to  the  top ; 
this  causes  a  current  to  take  place  along  the 
face  of  the  article  being  plated.     If  the  article 
has  a  fiat  surface,  suppose  that  of  a  waiter  or 
tray,  upon  which  a  prominence  exists,  as  a 
mounting  round  the  edge,  it  will  cause  lines 
and    ridges    from    the    bottom  to  the    top. 
Newly  formed  solutions  are  most  subject  to 
produce  this  annoyance. 

3719.  Dead   Silvering   for   Medals. 
The  perfect  smoothness  whicn  a  medal  gene- 
rally possesses  on  the  surface,  renders  it  very 
difficult  to   obtain  a   coating  of  dead  silver 
upon  it,   having    the   beautiful    silky   lustre 
which  characterizes  that  kind  of  work,  except 
by  giving  it  a  very  thick  coating  of  silver, 
which  takes  away  the  sharpness  of  the  im- 


ELECTRO-GILDING. 


345 


pression.  This  dead  appearance  can  be  easily 
obtained  by  putting  the  medal,  previous  to 
silvering,  in  a  solution  of  copper,  and  deposit- 
ing upon  it,  by  means  of  a  weak  current,  a 
mere  blush  of  copper,  which  gives  the  face  of 
the  medal  that  beautiful  crystalline  richness 
that  deposited  copper  is  known  to  give.  The 
medal  is  then  to  be  washed  from  the  copper 
solution,  and  immediately  to  i>e  put  into  the 
silver  solution.  A  very  slight  coating  of  sil- 
ver will  suffice  to  give  the  dead  frosty  lustre  so 
much  admired,  and  in  general  so  difficult  to 
obtftin. 

3720.  To  Recover  Silver  from    Old 
Plated  Goods.     Oil  of  vitriol,  together  with 
5  per  cent,  of  nitrate  of  soda,  is  heated  in  a 
cast-iron  boiler,  or  a  stoneware  pan,  to  212° 
Fahr.     The  silver-plated  clippings  are  placed 
in  a  sheet-iron  bucket  or  cullender,  which  is 
fastened  to  a  pulley  that  it  may  be  moved 
about  in  the  acid.    As  soon  as  the  silver  is 
removed,  the  cullender  is  raised,  allowed  to 
drain,  then  immersed  in  cold  water  and  emp- 
tied, to  be  again  used  in  the  same  manner. 
When  the  acid  bath  is  fresh,  the  desilvering 
proceeds  very  rapidly,  and  even  with  heavy 
plated  ware  takes  but  a  few  minutes;  with 
the  gradual  saturation  of  the  bath  more  time 
is  required,  and  it  is  readily  perceived  when 
the  acid  must  be  renewed.    The  small  amount 
of  acid  solution  adhering  to  the  copper,  pre- 
cipitates its  silver  when  brought  into  the  wa- 
ter.     To   obtain  its  complete  removal,   the 
clippings,  when  raised  from  the  desilveriug 
bath,  and  before  immersion  in  water,  may  be 
dipped  into  a  second  bath  prepared  in  the 
same  manner,  which  is  afterwards  to  be  used 
in  place  of  the  first.     The  saturated  bath,  on 
cooling,  congeals  to  a  crystalline  semi-fluid 
mass  of  sulphate  of  copper  and  of  soda.     The 
silver  is  removed  by  chloride  of  sodium  (com- 
mon salt)  which  is  added  in  small  portions  at 
a  time,  while  the  solution  is  yet  warm.     The 
chloride   of  silver  separates  readily,   and  is 
washed  and  reduced  in  the  usual  manner.    The 
acid  solution  contains  but  a  very  small  por- 
tion of  copper,  hardly  enough  to  pay  for  re- 
covering. 

3721.  To  Recover  Silver  from  Cop- 
per.    This  process  is  applied  to  recover  the 
silver  from  the  plated  metal,  which  has  been 
rolled  down  for  buttons,  toys,  etc.,  without 
destroying  any  large  portion  of  the  copper. 
For  this  purpose,  a  dissolving  solution  is  com- 
posed of  3   pounds  oil  of  vitriol,  1£  ounces 
nitre,  and  1  pound  water.     The  plated  metal 
is  boiled  in  it  till  the  silver  is  dissolved,  and 
then  the  silver  is  recovered  by  throwing  com- 
mon salt  into  the  solution.    (See  No.  3214.) 

3722.  Test  Fluid  for    Silver-Plated 
Goods.     For  this  purpose  a  testing  fluid  is 
prepared  by  adding  pure  nitric  acid  to  pow- 
dered red  chromate  of  potash,  and  mixing  them 
in  such  a  manner  that  a  part  of  the  latter 
remains  in  suspension,  the  whole  being  kept 
well  stirred  during  the  mixing.     Equal  parts 
by  weight  of  each  may  be  taken.    The  nitric 
must  be  quite  free  from  hydrochloric  acid,  and 
have  the  proper  degree  of  concentration,  be- 
ing neither  too  fuming  nor  too  dilute ;    it 
should  have  a  specific  gravity  between  1.20 
and  1.25.     When  the  mixture  has  been  pre- 
pared for  a  few  hours,  and  been  stirred  several 
times,  the  reddish-colored  .liquid  is  poured  off 


from  the  residue  and  kept  in  a  stoppered 
bottle. 
3723.      To  Test  Silver-Plated  Goods. 

The  ordinary  and  very  accurate  method  of 
testing  of  silver  is  founded  upon  the  insolu- 
bility of  chloride  of  silver  in  dilute  acids  and 
in  water.  This  otherwise  satisfactory  test  is, 
however,  difficult  to  carry  out  when  an  article 
is  very  thinly  plated.  A  drop  of  the  test 
liquid  (see  last  receipt)  is  then  brought  in 
contact  with  the  metal  to  be  tested,  and  im- 
mediately washed  off  again  with  water.  If 
a  visible  blood-red  spot  remains,  silver  is 
present.  This  method  requires  only  the  fol- 
lowing precautions:  The  metallic  surface 
must  have  been  quite  cleansed  from  grease  or 
varnish  with  spirits  of  wine — water  must  be 
poured  over  the  treated  surface  before  judging 
of  the  color,  as  that  of  the  testing  fluid  is 
altered  by  the  metal,  and  the  red  precipitate 
is  not  distinctly  visible  until  the  colored 
liquid  has  been  washed  off.  The  red  spot  can 
afterwards  be  very  easily  removed  with  the 
finger.  By  this  method  the  slightest  trace  of 
silver  in  an  alloy  may  be  ascertained.  "When 
an  article  is  suspected  to  be  only  thinly  plated, 
a  very  minute  drop  of  the  testing  fluid  should 
be  used.  With  no  other  metal  or  alloy  does 
this  red  spot,  so  characteristic  of  silver,  ap- 
pear; in  some  cases  the  testing  fluid  only 
corrodes  the  surface  of  the  metal,  whilst  in 
others  colored  precipitates  are  formed,  which, 
however,  cannot  be  confounded  with  those  of 
silver.  German  silver  brought  into  contact 
with  the  testing  fluid  affords  no  red  spot  after 
being  washed.  The  spot  will,  however,  have 
been  strongly  corroded.  Britannia  metal 
yields  a  black  spot;  zinc  is  strongly  corroded; 
platinum  is  not  attacked ;  lead  gives  a  yellow 
precipitate;  tin  is  strongly  affected  by  the 
fluid ;  when  the  brownish-colored  testing 
fluid  is  washed  off,  a  yellow  precipitate  is  per- 
ceived, which  adheres  tightly  to  the  metal ; 
copper  is  strongly  attacked,  a  tarnished  sur- 
face of  this  metal  is  brightened  by  the  action 
of  the  acid. 


EleCtrO-Gilding.  The  opera- 
tion of  gilding,  or  covering  other  met- 
als with  a  coating  of  gold  by  the  battery,  is 
performed  in  the  same  manner  as  electro- 
plating, with  the  exception  of  a  few  practical 
modifications. 

3725.  To  Prepare  Chloride  of  Gold. 
Dissolve  1  part  gold  in  3  parts  nitro-hydro- 
chloric   acid   (aqua  regia) ;    evaporate    until 
vapors  of  chlorine  begin'  to  be  disengaged, 
then   set  the  solution    aside    to  crystallize. 
Aqua  regia  consists  of  1  part  nitric  acid  and 
2  parts  (both  by  measure)  muriatic  (hydro- 
chloric) acid. 

If  aqua  ammonia  be  added  to  a  solution  of 
gold  in  aqua  regia,  it  precipitates  a  reddish- 
yellow  deposit,  which  may  be  collected, 
washed,  and  dried.  This  is  the  ammoniuret 
of  gold,  and  must  be  handled  and  prepared 
with  great  caution,  it  being  the  fulminate  of 
gold. 

3726.  To  Prepare  a  Solution  of  Gold. 
Add  a  solution  of  cyanide  of  potassium  to  a 
solution  of  chloride   of  gold  (see  No.  3725) 
until  all  the  precipitate  is  redissolved ;   but 
this  gives  chloride  of  potassium  in  the  solu- 


346 


ELECTRO-GILDING. 


tion,  -which  is  not  good.  In  the  preparation 
of  the  solution  by  this  means  there  are  some 
interesting  reactions.  As  the  chloride  of 
gold  has  always  an  excess  of  acid,  the  addi- 
tion of  cyanide  of  potassium  causes  violent 
effervescence,  and  no  precipitate  of  gold  takes 
place  until  all  the  free  acid  is  neutralized, 
•which  causes  a  considerable  loss  to  the 
cyanide  of  potassium.  There  is  always 
formed  in  this  deposition  a  quantity  of  am- 
monia and  carbonic  acid,  from  the  deposition 
of  the  cyanato  of  potash  ;  and  if  the  chloride 
of  gold  bo  recently  prepared,  and  hot,  there  is 
often  formed  some  aurate  of  ammonia  (ful- 
minate of  gold),  which  precipitates  with  the 
cyanide  of  gold.  "Were  this  precipitate  to  be 
collected  and  dried,  it  would  explode  when 
slightly  heated.  By  previously  diluting  the 
chloride  of  gold,  or  using  it  cold,  this  com- 
pound is  not  formed.  After  the  free  acid 
is  neutralized  by  the  potash,  further  addition 
of  the  cyanide  of  potassium  precipitates  the 
gold  as  cyanide  of  gold,  having  a  light  yellow 
color;  but  as  this  is  slightly  soluble  in  am- 
monia and  some  of  the  alkaline  salts,  it  is  not 
advisable  to  wash  the  precipitate,  lest  there 
be  a  loss  of  gold.  Cyanide  of  potassium  is 
generally  added  until  the  precipitate  is  redis- 
solved ;  consequently  much  impurity  is  formed 
in  the  solution,  namely,  nitrate  and  carbonate 
of  potash  with  chloride  of  potassium  and 
ammonia.  Notwithstanding,  this  solution 
works  very  well  for  a  short  time,  and  it  is 
very  good  for  operations  on  a  small  scale. 

3727.  To  Prepare  Cyanide  of  Gold. 
Dissolve  1  ounce  of  fine  gold  in  28  penny- 
weights nitric  acid  and  2  ounces  muriatic 
acid,  and  add  1  quart  hot  water.     Precipitate 
with  the  second  preparation  used  for  cyanide 
of  silver  (see  No.  3697),  and  proceed  in  the 
same  manner. 

3728.  To  Prepare  a  Solution  of  Gold. 
Dissolve  4  troy  ounces  cyanide  of  potassium 
and  1  ounce  cyanide  of  gold  in  1  gallon  rain 
or  distilled  water.     This  solution  is  to  be  used 

"•it  about,  00^  Fahr.,  with  a  battery  of  at  least 
two  cells.  Gold  can  be  deposited,  of  various 
shades  to  suit  the  taste,  by  adding  to  the  gold 
solution  a  small  quantity  of  the  cyanides  of 
silver,  copper,  or  zinc,  and  a  few  drops  of 
hydrosulphnret  of  ammonia. 

3729.  To  Prepare  a  Gold  Solution 
by  the  Battery  Process.      To  prepare  a 
gallon  of  gold  solution,   dissolve  4  ounces 
cyanide  of  potassium  in  1  gallon  water,  and 
heat  the  solution  to  1CO°  Fahr. ;  now  take  a 
small  porous  cell  and  fill  it  with  this  cyanide 
solution,  and  place  it  inside  the  gallon  of  solu- 
tion ;  into  this  cell  is  put  a  small  plate  of  iron 
or  copper,  and  attached  by  a  wire  to  the  zinc 
polo  of  a  battery.     A  piece  of  gold  is  placed 
into  the  largo  solution,  facing  the  plate  in  the 

Eorous  cell,  and  attached  to  the  silver  of  the 
attery.  The  whole  is  allowed  to  remain  in 
action  until  the  gold,  which  is  to  be  taken  out 
from  time  to  tirno  and  weighed,  has  lost  the 
quantity  required  in  solution.  By  this  means 
a  solution  of  any  strength  can  bo  made,  ac- 
cording to  the  time  allowed.  The  solution  in 
the  porous  cell,  unless  the  action  has  con- 
tinued long,  will  have  no  gold,  and  may  be 
thrown  away.  Half  an  hour  will  suffice  for  a 
small  quantity  of  solution — of  course  any 
quantity  of  solution  may  be  made  up  by  the 


same  means.  For  all  the  operations  of  gilding 
by  the  cyanide  solution,  it  must  be  heated  to 
at  least  130°  Fahr.  The  articles  to  be  gilt 
are  cleaned  in  the  way  described  for  silver 
(see  No.  3705),  but  are  not  dipped  into  nitric 
acid  previous  to  being  put  into  the  gold  solu- 
tion. 3  or  four  minutes  is  sufficient  time  to 
gild  any  small  article.  After  the  articles  are 
cleaned  and  dried  they  are  weighed,  and, 
when  gilt,  they  are  weighed  again;  thus 
the  quantity  of  gold  deposited  is  ascer- 
tained. Any  convenient  means  may  be 
adopted  for  heating  the  solution.  The  'one 
generally  adopted  h  to  put  a  stoneware  pan 
containing  the  solution  into  an  iron  or  tin- 
plate  vessel  filled  with  water,  which  is  kept 
at  the  boiling  point  either  by  being  placed 
upon  a  hot  plate  or  over  gas.  The  hotter  the 
solution  the  less  battery  power  is  required. 
Generally  a  battery  of  3  or  4  cells  is  used  for 
gilding,  and  the  solution  is  kept  at  130°  to 
150°  Fahr.  But  1  cell  will  answer  if  the  solu- 
is  heated  to  200°. 

3730.  Process  of  Electro-Gilding. 
The  process  of  gilding  is  generally  performed 
upon  silver  articles.  The  method  of  proceed- 
ing is  as  follows :  When  the  articles  are 
cleaned  as  described  in  No.  3705,  they  are 
weighed,  and  well  scratched  with  wire  brush- 
es, which  cleanse  away  any  tarnish  from  the 
surface,  and  prevents  the  formation  of  air- 
bubbles.  They  are  then  kept  m  clean  water 
until  it  is  convenient  to  immerse  them  in  the 
gold  solution.  One  immersion  is  then  given, 
which  merely  imparts  a  blush  of  gold ;  they 
are  taken  out  and  again  brushed ;  they-  are 
then  put  back  into  the  solution  and  kept 
there  for  3  or  4  minutes,  which  will  be  suffi- 
cient if  the  solution  and  battery  are  in  good 
condition ;  but  the  length  of  time  necessarily 
depends  on  these  two  conditions,  which  must 
be  studied  and  regulated  by  the  operator. 

3731.  To  Electro-Gild  Iron,  Tin,  and 
Lead.     Iron,  tin,  and  lead  are  very  difficult 
to  gild  direct ;  they  therefore  generally  have 
a  thin  coating  of  copper  deposited  upon  them 
by  the  cyanide  of  copper  solution  (see  Nos. 
3754  and  3755),  tmd  immediately  put  into  the 
gilding  solution. 

3732.  Conditions  Required  in  Electro- 
Gilding1.      The    gilding    solution    generally 
contains  from  one-half  to  an  ounce  of  gold  in 
the  gallon,   but  for  covering  small   articles, 
such  as  medals,  for  tinging  daguerreotypes, 
gilding  rings,  thimbles,  etc.,  a  weaker  solution 
will  do.     The  solution  should  be   sufficient 
in  quantity  to .  gild  the  articles  at   once,  so 
that  it  should  not  have  to  be  done  bit  by  bit; 
for  when  there  is  a  part  in  tho  solution  and  a 
part  out,  there  will  generally  be  a  line  mark 
at  the  point  touching  tho  surface  of  the  solu- 
tion.    Tho  rapidity  with  which  metals   are 
acted  upon  at  tho  surface  line  cf  tho  solution 
is  remarkable.    If  tho  positive  electrode  is 
not  wholly  immersed  in  the  solution,  it  will, 
in  a  short  time,  bq  cut  through  at  the  surface 
of  the  water,  a:3  if  cut  by  a  knife.     This  is 
also  the  case  in  silver,  copper,  and  other  solu- 
tions. 

3733.  To  Maintain  the  Strength  of 
the  Gold  Solution.     As  the  gold  solution 
evaporates  by  being  hot,  distilled  water  must 
from   time    to  time    be    added.     The   water 
should  always  be  added  when  the  operation 


ELECTRO-GILDING. 


34=7 


of  gilding  is  over,  not  when  it  is  about  to  be 
commenced,  or  the  solution  will  not  give  so 
satisfactory  a  result.  "When  the  gilding  opera- 
tion is  continued  successively  for  several  days, 
the  water  should  be  added  at  night.  To  ob- 
tain a  deposit  of  a  good  color,  much  depends 
upon  the  state  of  the  solution  and  battery ;  it 
is  therefore  necessary  that  strict  attention  be 
paid  to  these,  and  the  more  so  as  the  gold  so- 
lution is  very  liable  to  change  if  the  size  of 
the  article  receiving  the  deposit  is  not  the 
same  as  that  of  the  positive  electrode  plate. 
The  result  of  a  series  of  observations  and  ex- 
periments, continued  daily  throughout  a 
period  of  nine  months,  showed  that  in  five 
instances  only  the  deposit  was  exactly  equal 
to  the  quantity  dissolved  from  the  positive 
plate.  In  many  cases  the  difference  did  not 
exceed  3  per  cent.,  though  occasionally  it  rose 
to  50  per  cent.  The  average  difference,  how- 
ever, was  25  per  cent.  In  some  cases  double 
the  quantity  dissolved  was  deposited,  in 
others  the  reverse  occurred — both  resulting 
from  alterations  made  in  the  respective  pro- 
cesses ;  for  in  these  experiments,  the  state  of 
tb,e  solution  and  the  relative  sizes  of  the  neg- 
ative and  positive  electrodes  were  varied,  as 
far  as  practicable.  The  most  simple  method 
of  keeping  a  constant  register  of  the  state  of 
the  solution  is  to  weigh  the  gold  electrode 
before  putting  it  into  the  solution ;  and,  when 
taking  it  out,  to  compare  the  loss  with  the 
amount  deposited.  A  little  allowance,  how- 
ever, must  be  made  for  small  portions  of 
metal  dissolved  in  the  solution,  from  the  arti- 
cles that  are  gilt,  which,  when  gilding  is  per- 
formed daily,  is  considerable  in  a  year.  A 
constant  control  can  thus  be  exercised  over 
the  solution,  to  which  there  will  have  to  be 
added  from  time  to  time  a  little  cyanide  of 
potassium,  a  simple  test  of  requirement  being 
that  the  gold  positive  electrode  should  always 
come  out  clean,  for  if  it  has  a  film  or  crust  it 
is  a  certain  indication  that  the  solution  is  de- 
ficient of  cyanide  of  potassium.  Care  must 
be  taken  to  distinguish  this  crust,  which  is 
occasionally  dark-green  or  black,  from  a  black 
appearance,  which  the  gold  electrode  will  take 
when  very  small  in  comparison  to  the  article 
being  gilt,  and  which  is  caused  by  the  ten- 
dency to  evolve  gas.  In  this  case  an  addition 
of  cyanide  of  potassium  would  increase  the 
evil.  The  black  appearance  from  the  ten- 
dency to  the  escape  of  gas  has  a  slimy  ap- 
pearance. This  generally  takes  place  when 
the  solution  is  nearly  exhausted  of  gold,  of 
which  fact  this  appearance,  taken  conjointly 
with  the  relative  sizes  of  the  electrodes,  is  a 
sure  guide. 

3734.  To  Regulate  the  Color  of  the 
Gilding1.  The  gold  upon  the  gilt  article,  on 
coming  out  of  the  solution,  should  be  of  a  dark 
yellow  color,  approaching  to  brown;  but  this, 
when  scratched  (sec  No.  3709),  will  yield  a 
beautifully  rich  deep  gold.  If  the  color  is 
blackish  it  ought  not  to  bo  finished,  for  it  will 
never  either  brush  or  burnish  a  good  color. 
If  the  batteiy  is  too  strong,  and  gas  is  given 
off  from  the  article,  the  color  will  be  black ; 
if  the  solution  is  too  cold,  or  the  battery 
rather  weak,  the  gold  will  be  light-colored ; 
so  that  every  variety  of  shade  may  be  impart- 
ed. A  very  rich  dead  gold  may  be  made  by 
adding  ammoniuret  of  gold  (see  No.  3725)  to 


the  solution  just  as  the  articles  are  being  put 
in ;  or,  what  is  better,  add  some  sulphuret  of 
carbon  in  the  same  way  as  for  silver  solutions 
(see  No.  3710),  which  affects  the  color  and 
appearance  of  the  gold  in  the  same  way  as  it 
does  the  silver. 

3735.  To  Improve  the  Color  of  Gild- 
ing1. A  defective  colored  gilding  may  be  im- 
proved by  the  help  of  the  following  mixture: 
3  parts  nitrate  of  potassa  (saltpetre),  IB  parts 
alum,  1|  parts  sulphate  of  zinc,  and  1£  parts 
common  salt,  are  put  into  a  small  quantity  of 
water,  to  form  a  sort  of  paste,  which  is  put 
upon  the  articles  to  be  colored;  these  are 
then  placed  upon  an  iron  plate  over  a  clear 
fire,  so  that  they  will  attain  nearly  to  a  black 
heat,  when  they  are  suddenly  plunged  into 
cold  water.  This  gives  them  a  beautiful  high 
color.  Different  hues  may  be  had  by  a  varia- 
tion in  the  mixture. 

3736.  To  Electro-gild  with  Bed 
Gold.  Gold  having  the  red  color  of  14  carat 
gold  may  be  deposited  by  the  battery  in  the 
following  manner:  Prepare  a  solution  of 
cyanide  of  copper  by  adding  cyanide  of  potas- 
sium to  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper  until 
the  precipitate  at  first  thrown  down  is  redis- 
solved.  Add  to  this  a  solution  of  cyanide  of 
gold  (see  No.  3727)  in  sufficient  quantity  to 
give,  on  trial,  the  desired  color  of  gold  de- 
posit. "When  using  this  solution,  the  positive 
electrode  plate  should  be  of  gold  of  the  same 
color  as  that  desired  to  be  deposited. 

3737.  Practical  Suggestions  in  Elec- 

j  tro-gilding.  According  to  the  amount  of 
'  gold  deposited,  so  will  be  its  durability.  A 
few  grains  will  serve  to  give  a  gold  color  to  a 
very  large  surface,  but  it  will  not  last.  This 
proves,  however,  that  the  process  may  be 
used  for  the  most  inferior  quality  of  gilding. 
Gold  thinly  laid  upon  silver  will  be  of  a  light 
color,  because  of  the  property  of  gold  to 
transmit  light.  The  solution  for  gilding  sil- 
ver should  be  made  very  hot,  but  for  copper 
it  should  be  at  its  minimum  heat.  A 
mere  blush  may  be  sufficient  for  articles  not 
subjected  to  wear;  but  on  watch  cases,  pencil 
cases,  chains,  and  the  like,  a  good  coating 
should  bo  given.  An  ordinary  sized  watch 
case  should  have  from  20  grains  to  a  penny- 
weight ;  a  mere  coloring  will  be  sufficient  for 
the  inside,  but  the  outside  should  have  as 
much  as  possible.  A  watch  case  thus  gilt, 
for  ordinary  wear,  will  last  five  or  six  years 
without  becoming  bare.  Small  silver  chains 
should  have  12  grains ;  pencil  cases  of  ordin- 
ary size  should  have  from  three  to  five  grains ; 
a  thimble  from  1  to  2  grains.  These  sugges- 
tions will  serve  as  a  guide  to  amateur  gilders, 
many  of  whom,  having  imparted  only  a  color 
to  their  pencil  cases,  feel  disappointed  upon 
seeing  them  speedily  become  bare;  hence 
arises  much  of  the  obloquy  thrown  upon  the 
process. 

3738.  To  Deposit  Copper,  Silver,  or 
Gold  by  the  Battery  on  Paper  and  other 
Fibrous  Material.     The  whole  question  is 
to  make  the  paper  a  good  conductor  of  elec- 
tricity   without  coating  it  with  a  material 
which  may  peel  off.     One  of  the  best  methods 
is  to  take  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver,  pour 
in  liquid  ammonia  till  the  precipitate  at  first 
formed  is  entirely  dissolved  again,  and  place 
the  paper,  silk,  or  muslin  for  one  or  two  hours 


34,3 


ELECTRO-GILDING. 


in  this  solution.  After  taking  it  out  and  dry- 
ing well,  it  is  exposed  to  a  current  of  hydrogen 
gas,  by  which  operation  the  silver  is  reduced 
to  a  metallic  state,  and  the  material  becomes 
so  good  a  conductor  of  electricity  that  it  may 
be  electroplated  with  copper,  silver,  or  gold,  in 
the  usual  manner. 

3739.  To   Dissolve  Gold   from   Gilt 
Articles.      Before  regilding  articles  which 
are  partly  covered  with   gold,  or  when  the 
gilding  is  imperfect,  and  the  articles  require 
regilding,  the  gold  should  be  removed  from 
them  by  putting  them  into  strong  nitric  acid ; 
and  when  the  articles  have  been  placed  in  the 
acid,  by  adding  some  common  salt,  not  in  so- 
lution, but  in  crystals.     By  this  method  gold 
may  be  dissolved  from  any  metal,  even  from 
iron,  without  injuring  it  in  the  least.     After 
coming  out  of  the  acid,  the  articles  must  be 
polished.     The  best  method,  however,  is  to 
brash  off  the  gold  as  described  for  silver  (see 
No.  3706),  which  gives  the  polish  at  the  same 
time. 

3740.  To  Recover  Gold  from  its  Acid 
Solution.     When  the  acid  has  become  satu- 
rated by  the  gold  that  has  been  dissolved  in  it, 
or  when  it  ceases  to  dissolve  the  gold  rapidly, 
it  is  diluted  with  several  times  its  bulk  of 
water,  and  then  soda  or  potash  added  till  the 
greater  portion  of  the  acid  is  neutralized.    A 
solution  of  sulphate  of  iron  (copperas)  is  then 
added,  so  long  as  a  precipitate  is  formed ; 
when  this  settles  down  it  is  carefully  collected 
upon  a  paper  filter,  washed  and  "dried,  and 
then  fused  in  a  crucible  with  a  little  borax  and 
common  salt,  when  the  gold  is  found  as  a 
button  at  the  bottom  of  the  crucible.     "When 
the  gold  is  brushed  off,  the  brushings  are 
burned  at  a  red  heat,  and  the  residue  fused 
with  carbonate  of  soda  and  a  little  borax ;  in 
this  case,  the  gold  will  not  be  pure,  and  will 
have  to  be  refined. 

3741.  To  Separate  Gold   from   Gilt 
Copper  or  Silver.     Take  a  solution  of  borax 
in    water,   apply    to    the    gilt    surface,   and 
sprinkle  over  it  some  finely  powdered  sul- 
phur; make  the  article  red  hot,  and  quench  it 
in  water;  then  scrape  off  the  gold,  and  re- 
cover it  by  means  of  lead.     (See  No.  3191.) 

3742.  To   Becover   Gold   from   Gilt 
Articles.     Gold  may  be  stripped  from  arti- 
cles that  have  been  gilt  by  placing  them  in 
strong  nitric  acid,  in  which  some  salt  has 
been  previously  dissolved.    "When  a  number 
of  articles  have  been  stripped  in  the  solution, 
it  begins  to  work  slowly,  and  it  is  time  then  to 
abandon  it,  and  use  a  new  one.    The  gold  may 
then  be  recovered  from  the  old  solution,  by 
evaporating  it  to  dryness,  and  fusing  the  resi- 
duum with  a  small  piece  of  soda  or  potash, 
the  gold  being  fused  into  a  button.     The  addi- 
tion of  a  little  saltpetre  will  tend  to  make  the 
refining  process  more  complete.     As  there  is 
Borne  trouble  connected  with  this  process,  it  is 
scarcely  worth   adopting  where   very   small 
quantities  of  gold  are  concerned.     In  such  a 
case  it  is  a  better  plan  to  suspend  the  article, 
from  which  the  gold  is  to  be  removed,  in  the 
gilding  bath,  in  the  place  of  the  anode,  when 
gilding  another  article. 

3743.  Electro-Gilding  Without  a 
Battery.  Dissolve  9  parts  terchloride  of 
gold  in  1000  to  2000  parts  pure  water ;  then 
add  360  parts  bicarbonate  of  potassa,  and  boil 


for  two  hours.  The  metallic  article,  if  not 
copper,  is  covered  with  a  film  of  copper  sim- 
ultaneously with  its  being  immersed  into  the 
boiling  gilding  liquor,  by  placing  a  piece  of 
sheet-copper  along  with  it.  As  soon  as  a  de- 
posit of  copper  is  observed,  the  piece  of  cop- 
per is  taken  out,  and  the  liquor  continued 
boiling  until  a  deep  yellow  color  is  obtained. 
The  article  is  then  taken  out,  washed  off  with 
water,  and  rubbed  with  a  metallic  brush. 
"When  the  liquor  has  again  become  clear  by 
settling  and  decanting,  it  is  again  heated  to 
boiling,  the  article  immersed,  while  the  piece 
of  copper  is  moved  about  in  the  fluid  without 
touching  the  other.  The  same  operation  may 
be  renewed  ad  libitum,  until  the  desired  thick- 
ness of  gold  is  obtained. 

3744.  Plating  and  Gilding  Without 
a  Battery.     "Watts  gives  the  following  very 
useful  solution  of  silver  or  gold  for  plating  or 
gilding  without  the  aid  of  a  battery  :  Take  1 
ounce  nitrate  of  silver,  dissolved  in  1  quart 
distilled  or  rain   water.     "When  thoroughly 
dissolved,  throw  in  a  few  crystals  of  hypo- 
sulphite of  soda,  which  will  at  first  form  a 
brown  precipitate,  but  which  eventually  be- 
comes redissolved  if  sufficient  hyposulphite 
has  been  employed.     A  slight  excess  of  this 
salt  must,  however,  be  added.     The  solution 
thus  formed  may  be  used  for  coating  small 
articles  of  steel,  brass,  or  German  silver,  by 
simply  dipping  a  sponge  in  the  solution  and 
rubbing  it  over  the  surface  of  the  article  to  be 
coated ;  the  silver  becomes  so  firmly  attached 
to  the  steel  (when  the  solution  has  been  care- 
fully made)  that  it  is  removed  with  considera- 
ble difficulty.    A  solution  of  gold  may  be  made 
in  the  same  way,  and  applied  as  described. 
A  concentrated  solution  of  either  gold  or  sil- 
ver, thus  made,  may  be  used  for  coating  parts 
of  articles  which  have  stripped  or  blistered, 
by  applying  it  with  a  camel-hair  pencil  to  the 
part,  and  touching  the  spot  at  the  same  time 
with  a  thin  clean  strip  of  zinc. 

3745.  To  Distinguish  Gold  from  its 
Imitations.     The  ordinary  method  of  test- 
ing gold  by  the  touchstone  is  founded  upon 
the  insolubility  of  this  metal  in  nitric  acid.    If 
a  mark  be  made  on  the  touchstone  with  the 
article  under  examination,  the  gold  is  not  dis- 
solved by  this  acid,  whereas  golden  colored 
alloys  of  inferior  value  are  dissolved  and  dis- 
appear immediately.     "When  articles  are  very 
thinly  gilded,  tbs   detection  of  the   gold   in 
this  manner  is  uncertain,  in  which  case  the 
following  method  may  bo  used  with  advan- 
tage.    (See  No.  3190.) 

3746.  Test   Fluid  for    Gilded  Arti- 
cles.    A  little  carbonate  of  copper  is  put  into 
a  test-tube,    and  to  this  is   added,   drop   by 
drop,   pure  hydrochloric   acid,   till    the   blue 
powder  has  dissolved  to  a  clear  green  fluid, 
occasionally  warming  it  over  a  spirit  lamp. 
This  concentrated  solution  of  chloride  of  cop- 
per is  diluted  for    use  with   from  10   to  11 
times  its  volume  of  distilled  water. 

3747.  To  Test  Gilded  Articles.-   Be- 
fore testing,  the  metallic  surface  must  be  well 
cleaned.    This    can  be   done   effectually  by 
brushing  it  for  a  minute  or  two  with  a  little 
spirits  of  wine,  or,  better,  with  absolute   al- 
cohol.    The  surface  having  dried,  a  little  of 
the  testing  fluid  (see  last  receipt)  is  dropped 
on  and  allowed  to  remain  in  contact  for  about 


ELECTROPLATING    WITH   VARIOUS   METALS. 


a  minute.  The  fluid  is  then  removed  by 
means  of  a  small  pipette,  and  the  surface  of 
the  metal  completely  dried  -with  bibulous 
paper ;  if  no  dark  spot  be  then  visible,  the  ar- 
ticle is  coated  with  pure  gold.  If  the  metallic 
surface  is  but  lightly  gilded,  a  very  slight 
blackening  is  sometimes  remarked,  which 
may  throw  a  doubt  upon  the  result.  In  such 
a  case,  to  make  quite  certain,  a  little  of  the 
surface  may  be  scraped  off,  and  then  the  test- 
ing fluid  again  applied.  If  a  dark  spot  is  then 
perceived,  the  article  may  be  considered  as 
very  thinly  gilded. 


T^lectroplating  with.  Va- 

-J--JriO11S  MetalS.  The  following 
receipts  furnish  the  means  of  coating  objects 
with  tin,  zinc,  brass,  German  silver,  and  other 
metals. 

3749.  To  Electroplate  Copper,  Brass, 
or    German    Silver,    with     Aluminum, 
take  equal  measures  of  sulphuric  acid  and 
water,  or  take  1  measure  each  sulphuric  and 
hydrochloric  acids  and  2  measures  water ;  add 
to  the  water  a  small  quantity  of  pipe-clay,  in 
the  proportion  of  5  or  10  grains  by  weight  to 
every  ounce  by  measure  of  water  (or  k  ounce 
to  the  pint).  Rub  the  clay  with  the  water  until 
the  two  are  perfectly  mixed,  then  add  the  acid 
to  the  clay  solution,  and  boil  the  mixture  in  a 
covered  glass  vessel  1  hour.    Allow  the  liquid 
to  settle,  take  the  clear,  supernatant  solution, 
while  hot,  and  immerse  in  it  an  earthen  por- 
ous cell,  containing  a  mixture  of  one  measure 
of  sulphuric  acid  and  ten  measures  of  water, 
together  with  a  rod  or  plate  of  amalgamated 
zinc;  take  a  small  Smee's  battery  of  3  or  4 
cells,  and  connect  its  positive  pole  by  a  wire 
with   the  piece   of  zinc  in  the  porous  cell. 
Having  perfectly  cleaned  the  surface  of  the 
article  to  be  coated,  connect  it  by  a  wire  with 
the  negative  pole  of  the  battery,  and  immerse 
it    in    the    hot    clay   solution;    immediately 
abundance  of   gas  will  be  evolved  from  the 
whole  of  the  immersed  surface  of  the  article, 
and  in  a  few  minutes,  if  the  size  of  the  article 
is  adapted  to  the  quantity  of  the  current  of 
electricity  passing  through  it,  a  fine  white  de- 
posit of  aluminum  will  appear  all  over  the 
surface.     It  may  then  be  taken  out,  washed 
quickly  in  clean  water,  and  wiped  dry,  and 
polished  ;  but  if  a  thicker  coating  is  required, 
it    must   be    taken    out   when    the    deposit 
becomes  dull  in  appearance,  washed,  dried, 
polished,  find  reimmersed;  and  this  must  be 
repeated  at  intervals,  as  often  as  it  becomes 
dull,  until  the  required  thickness  is  obtained. 
"With  small  articles  it  is  not  absolutely  neces- 
sary that  a  separate  battery  be  employed,  as 
the  article  to  be  coated  may  be  connected,  as 
in  the  one  cell  method  (see  No.  3669),  by  a 
wire  with  the  piece  of  zinc  in  the  porous  cell, 
and  immersed  in  the  outer  liquid,  when  it  will 
receive  a  deposit,  but  more  slowly  than  when 
a  battery  is  employed. 

3750.  To  Electroplate  with  Tin.    Tin 
is  easily  deposited  from  a  solution  of  proto- 
chloride  of  tin.     If  the  two  poles  or  electrodes 
be  kept  about  2  inches  apart,  a  most  beautiful 
phenomenon  may  be  observed.     The  decom- 
position of  the  solution  is  so   rapid  that  it 


shoots  .out  from  the  negative  electrode  like 
feelers,  towards  the  positive,  which  it  reaches 
in  a  few  seconds.  The  space  between  the 
poles  seems  like  a  mass  of  crystallized  threads, 
and  the  electric  current  passes  through  them 
without  affecting  further  decomposition.  So 
tender  are  these  metallic  threads  that  when 
lifted  out  of  the  solution  they  fall  upon  the 
plate  like  cobweb.  Seen  through  a  glass  they 
exhibit  a  beautiful  crystalline  structure.  Tin 
may  also  be  deposited  from  its  solution  in 
caustic  potash  or  soda. 

3751.  Galvanic   Tinning.      M.   Mais- 
trasse-Dupr6,  it  appears,  had  been   commis- 
sioned by  the  French  government  to  apply, 
by  galvanic  means,  tin  upon  divers   objects 
which  had  been  made  of  so-called  galvanized 
iron — that  is,  iron  covered  with  zinc.     To  this 
purpose  he  applied  galvanic  elements  made  of 
copper  and  zinc  plates,  the  length  of  which  is 
48  inches,  the  width  28  inches,  placed  in  a 
leaden  trough  and  separated  and  isolated  by 
means  of  wooden    partitions.     The    copper 
sheet  was  immersed  in  a  mixture  of  equal 
parts  of  acetate  of  lead  and  common  salt,  and 
the  zinc  element  was  placed  in  weak  sulphuric 
acid,  specific  gravity  1.060.     This  battery  re- 
mains in  constant  action  and  working  order 
for  8  days,  at  an  outlay  of  only  2  francs. 
When  the   objects    which    are    galvanically 
tinned  are  afterwards  heated  to  the  melting 
point  of  tin,  the  goodness  and  durability  of 
hot-tinned  materials  is  thus  obtained.     Copper 
thus    tinned   (galvanically),   and   afterwards 
heated,   is   superficially   converted  into   bell 
metal,  while  the  method  of  tinning  galvan- 
ically has  the  great  advantage  over  the  old 
method,  that  it  can  be  applied  to  objects  to 
which  the  method  of  tinning  in  ordinary  use 
is  not  applicable. 

3752.  To  Electroplate  with   Brass. 
Brass  can  be  deposited  when  the  solution  is 
composed  of  1  part  sulphate  of  copper  in  4 
parts  hot  water,  8  parts  sulphate  of  zinc  in  16 
parts  of  hot  water,  18  parts  cyanide  of  potas- 
sium in  36  parts  of  hot  water.     These  are 
mixed,  and  250  parts  of  water  added.     Instead 
of  a  copper  positive  electrode  plate,  one  of 
brass  is  necessary ;  the  solution  is  required  to 
be  kept  nearly  boiling,  and  a  powerful  battery 
to  be  used. 

3753.  To  Prepare  Cyanides  of  Cop- 
per and  Zinc.     For  copper,  dissolve  1  ounce 
of  sulphate  of  copper  in  1  pint  of  hot  water. 
For  zinc,  dissolve  1  ounce  of  the  sulphate  of 
zinc  in  1  pint  of  hot  water,  and  proceed  the 
same  as  for  cyanide  of  silver.     (See  No.  3697.) 

3754.  Cyanide    Solution   of   Copper 
or  Zinc.     Dissolve  8  ounces  (troy)'  cyanide 
of  potassium,  and  3  ounces  cyanide  of  copper 
or  zinc  in  1  gallon  of  rain  or  distilled  water. 
They  should   be  used  at  about  160°  Fahr.; 
with  a  compound  battery  of  3  to  12  cells. 

3755.  Cyanide  Solution  of  Copper. 
To   prepare  copper    solutions    by  means   of 
cyanide  of  potassium,  for  covering  iron  and 
other  positive  metals,  there  are  several  meth- 
ods, but  the  method  adopted  in  manufacturing 
purposes  is  as  follows :  To  a  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  copper,  add  a  solution  of  ferrocyanide 
of  potassium  (yellow  prussiate  of  potassa), 
so  long  as  a  precipitate  continues  to  be  form- 
ed ;  this  is  allowed  to  settle,  and,  the  clear 
liquor  being  decanted,  the  vessel  is  filled  with 


350 


ELECTROPLATING    WITH    VARIOUS   METALS. 


water,  and  when  the  precipitate  settles,  the 
liquor  is  again  decanted,  and  these  -washings 
are  repeated  until  the  sulphate  of  potash  is 
•washed  quite  out.  This  is  known  by  adding 
a  little  chloride  of  barium  to  a  small  quantity 
of  the  washings ;  if  no  white  precipitate  is 
formed  by  this  test,  the  precipitate  is  suffi- 
ciently washed.  A  solution  of  cyanide  of 
potassium  is  now  added  to  this  precipitate 
until  it  is  dissolved,  during  which  process  the 
solution  becomes  warm  by  the  chemical  reac- 
tion that  takes  place.  The  solution  is  filtered, 
and  allowed  to  repose  all  night.  If  the  solu- 
tion of  cyanide  of  potassium  that  is  used  is 
strong,  the  greater  portion  of  the  ferrocj'anide 
of  potassium  crystallizes  in  the  solution,  and 
may  be  collected  and  preserved  for  use  again. 
If  the  solution  of  cyanide  of  potassium  used 
to  dissolve  the  precipitate  is  dilute,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  condense  the  liqnor  by  evapora- 
tion, to  obtain  the  yellow  prussiate  in  crys- 
tals ;  the  remaining  solution  is  the  coppering 
solution.  Should  it  not  be  convenient  to 
separate  the  yellow  prussiate  by  crystalliza- 
tion, the  presence  of  that  salt  in  the  solution 
docs  not  interfere  with  its  power  of  depositing 
copper. 

3756.  To  Prepare  Iron  for  Coating 
with  Copper.     When  it  is  required  to  cover 
an  iron  article  with  copper,  it  is  first  steeped 
in  hot  caustic  potash  or  soda,  to  remove  any 
grease  or  oil.     Being  washed  from  that,  it 
is  placed  for  a  short  time  in  dilute  sulplraric 
acid,  consisting  of  about  1  part  of  acid  to  1G 
parts  water,  which  removes  any  oxide  that  may 
exist.    It  is  then  washed  in  water,  and  scoured 
with  sand  till  the  surface  is  perfectly  clean, 
and  finally  attached  to  the  battery,  and  im- 
mersed in  the  cyanide  solution.      (See  No. 
3755.)    All  this  must  be  done  with  dispatch, 
so  as  to  prevent  the  iron  combining  with 
oxygen.     An  immersion  of  five  minutes'  dura- 
tion in  the  cyanide  solution  is  sufficient  to 
deposit  upon  the  iron  a  film  of  copper.     But 
it  is  necessary  to  the  complete  protection  of 
the  iron,  that  it  should  have  a  tolerably  thick 
coating ;  and,  as  the  cyanide  process  is  expen- 
sive, it  is  preferable,  when  the  iron  has  re- 
ceived a  film  of  copper  by  the  cyanide  solu- 
tion, to  take  it  out,  wash  it  in  water,  and 
attach  it  to  a  single  cell  or  weak  battery,  and 
put  it  into  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper, 
if  there  is  any  part  not  sufficiently  covered 
with  copper  by  the  cyanide  solution,  the  sul- 
phate will  make  these  parts  of  a  dark  color, 
which  a  touch  of   the  finger  will  remove. 
"When  such  is  the  case,  the  article  must  be 
taken  out,  scoured,  and  put  again  into  the 
cyanide  solution  till  perfectly  covered.     A 
little  practice  will  render  this  very  easy.     The 
sulphate  solution,  when  used  for  covering  iron, 
should  be  prepared  by  adding  to  it  by  degrees 
a  little  caustic  soda,  so  long  as  the  precipitate 
formed    is  redissolved.      This  neutralizes    a 
great  portion  of  the  sulphuric  acid,  and  thus 
the  iron  is  not  so  readily  acted  upon. 

3757.  To  Coat  Iron  with  Zinc.    In 
covering  iron  with  zinc,  the  precautions  ne- 
cessary for  copper  are  not  required;  zinc  being 
the  positive  metal,  acids  have    a    stronger 
affinity  for  it  than  for  iron,  and  therefore  an 
acid  solution  may  be  used.     The  solution  gen- 
erally used  is  the  sulphate,  used  in  the  same 
way  as  sulphate  of  copper.    (See  No.  3661.) 


3758.      Test    for   Galvanized    Iron. 

TVhen  zinc  is  deposited  on  iron  by  galvanic 
agency,  it  should  form  a  chemical  combination 
with  the  iron,  and  not  be  merely  attached 
thereto.  It  is  proposed  by  Mr.  T.  Bruce 
"Wan-en,  of  England,  to  use  this  fact  for  prac- 
tically testing  the  efficiency  of  the  galvanrza- 
tion.  If  mercury  be  poured  over  the  surface, 
the  zinc  that  is  only  locally  attached  will 
form  an  amalgam  with  the  mercury.  Mr. 
"Wan-en  also  uses  this  as  a  quantitative  test,  to 
verify  the  amount  of  zinc  in  combination  with 
the  iron. 

3759.  To  Make  a  Cyanide  Solution 
of  Brass.  Dissolve  1  pound  (troy)  cyanide 
of  potassium,  2  ounces  cyanide  of  copper,  and 
1  ounce  cyanide  of  zinc,  in  1  gallon  rain  or 
distilled  water ;  then  add  2  ounces  muriate  of 
ammonia.  This  solution  is  to  be  used  at 
160°  Fahr.  on  smooth  work,  with  a  compound 
battery  of  3  to  12  cells. 

3  760.  Electroplating  with  Platinum. 
This  metal  has  never  tyet  been  successfully 
deposited  as  a  protecting  coating  to  other 
metals.  A  solution  may  be  made  by  dissolv- 
ing it  in  a  mixture  of  nitric  and  muriatic 
acids,  the  same  as  is  employed  in  dissolving 
gold ;  but  heat  must  be  applied.  The  solu- 
tion is  then  evaporated  to  dryness,  and  to  the 
remaining  mass  is  added  a  solution  of  cyanide 
of  potassium ;  next,  it  must  be  slightly  heated 
for  a  short  time,  and  then  filtered.  This  solu- 
tion, evaporated,  yields  beautiful  crystals  of 
cyanide  of  platinum  and  potassium  ;  but  it  is 
unnecessary  to  crystallize  the  salt.  A  very 
weak  batteiy  power  is  required  to  deposrt  the 
metal;  the  solution  should  be  heated  to  100°. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  to  obtain  a  fine 
metallic  deposit ;  indeed,  the  operator  may 
not  succeed  once  in  twenty  times  in  getting 
more  than  a  mere  coloring  of  metal  over  the 
surface,  and  that  not  very  adhesive.  The 
causes  of  the  difficulty  arc  probably  these  : 
the  platinum  used  as  an  electrode  is  not  acted 
upon ;  the  quantity  of  salt  in  solution  is  very 
little;  it  requires  a  particular  battery  strength 
to  give  a  good  deposit,  and  the  slightest 
strength  beyond  this  gives  a  black  deposit; 
so  that,  were  the  proper  relations  obtained, 
whenever  there  is  any  deposit,  the  relations 
of  battery  and  solution  are  changed,  and  the 
black  pulverulent  deposit  follows. 

3761.  Electroplating  with  Palladium. 
Palladium  is  a  metal  very  easily  deposited. 
The   solution  is  prepared   by  dissolving  the 
metal  in  nitro-muriatic  acid,  and  evaporating 
the  solution  nearly  to  dryness ;  then  adding 
cyanide  of  potassium  till  the  whole  is  dis- 
solved; the  solution  is  then  filtered  and  ready 
for  use.     The  cyanide  of  potassium   holds  a 
large  quantity  of  this  metal  in  solution,  and 
the  electrode  is  acted  upon  while  the  deposit 
is  proceeding.      Articles  covered   with    this 
metal  assume  the  appearance  of  the  metal ; 
but  so  far  as  wo  are  aware,  it  has  not  j'et 
been  applied  to  any  practical  purpose.    It 
requires  rather  a  thick    deposit  to    protect 
metals   from   the   action  of  acids,  which  is, 
probably,  the  only  use  it  can  be  applied  to. 

3762.  Electroplating    with    Nickel. 
Nickel  is  very  easily  deposited,  and  may  be 
prepared  for  this  purpose  by  dissolving  it  in 
nitric  acid,  then  adding  cyanide  of  potassium 
to  precipitate  the  metal ;  after  which  the  pre- 


ELECTROPLATING    WITH   VAEIOUS   METALS. 


351 


cipitate  is  washed  and  dissolved  by  the  ad- 
dition of  more  cyanide  of  potassium.  Or  the 
nitrate  solution  may  be  precipitated  by  car- 
bonate of  potash ;  this  should  be  well  washed, 
and  then  dissolved  in  cyanide  of  potassium;  a 
proportion  of  carbonate  of  potash  will  be  in 
the  solution,  which  has  not  been  found  to  be 
detrimental.  The  metal  is  very  easily  depos- 
ited ;  it  yields  a  color  approaching  to  silver, 
which  is  not  liable  to  tarnish  on  exposure  to 
the  air.  A  coating  of  this  metal  would  be 
very  useful  for  covering  common  work,  such 
as  gasaliers,  and  other  gas-fittings,  and  even 
common  plate.  The  great  difficulty  experi- 
enced is  to  obtain  a  positive  electrode :  the 
metal  is  very  difficult  to  fuse,  and  so  brittle 
that  we  have  never  been  able  to  obtain  either 
a  plate  or  a  sheet  of  it.  Could  this  difficulty 
be  easily  overcome,  the  application  of  nickel 
to  the  coating  of  other  metals  would'  be  ex- 
tensive, and  the  property  of  not  being  liable 
to  tarnish  would  make  it  eminently  useful  for 
all  general  purposes. 

3763.  Nagel's  Method  of  Electroplat- 
ing with  Nickel.  A  process  devised  by  Mr. 
Nagol,  of  Hamburg,  for  coating  iron,  steel, 
and  other  oxidizable  metals  with  an  electro 
deposit  of  nickel  or  cobalt,  consists  in  taking 
4  parts,  by  weight,  of  pure  sulphate  of  the 
protoxide  of  nickel  by  crystallization,  and  2 
parts,  by  weight,  of  pure  ammonia,  so  as  to 
form  a  double  salt,  which  is  then  dissolved  in 
60  parts  of  distilled  water,  and  12  parts  of  am- 
moniacal  solution  of  the  specific  gravity  of 
,  .903  added.  The  electro  deposit  is  effected 
by  an  ordinary  galvanic  current,  using  a 
platinum  positive  pole,  4&e^j»ol»t'~~ 


-iee*-Faar.  The  strength  of 
the  galvanic  current  is  regulated  according  to 
the  number  of  objects  to  be  coated. 

3764.  To  Protect  Steel  from  Rusting. 
It  has  been  found  by  experiment  that  au  elec- 
tro-deposited coating  of  nickel  protects  the 
surface  of  polished  steel  completely  from  rust. 
Swords,  knives,  and  other  articles  of   steel 
liable  to  exposure,  may  be  coated  with  nickel 
without  materially  altering  the  color  of  the 
metal. 

3765.  To  Protect  Copper  and  Brass. 
Copper  and  brass  are  equally  well  protected 
by  nickel  (see  No.  3764),  but,  of  course,  with 
change  of  color  on  the  surface.     The  nickel 
facing,   when  buruished,  has  a  whiter  color 
than  polished  steel,  but  not  as  white  as  silver, 
being  nearer  in  appearance  to  platinum. 

3766.  Nagel's  Method  of  Electroplat- 
ing Metal  with  Cobalt.     For  coating  with 
cobalt,  13d  parts,  by  weight,  of  pure  sulphate 
of  cobalt,  are  combined  with  69  parts  of  pure 
ammonia,  to  form  a  double  salt,  which  is  then 
dissolved  in  1000  parts  of  distilled  water,  and 
120  parts  of  amrnouiacal  solution,  of  the  same 
specific  gravity  as   before,  are  added.    The 
process  of  deposition  with  cobalt  is  the  same 
as  with  nickel.     (See  No.  3763.) 

3767.  To  Electroplate  with  Silicium. 
In  the  following  manner,  a  coating  of  silicium 
can  be  obtained  direct  from  silica :  Take  the 
following  proportions :  £  o'once,  by  measure, 
of   hydrofluoric  acid,    £    ounce    hydrochloric 
acid,  and  40  or  50  grains  either  of  precipitated 
silica,  or  of  fine  white  sand  (the  former  dis- 
solves most  freely),  and  boil  the  whole  together 
for  a  few  minutes,  until  no  more  silica  is  dis- 


solved.  Use  this  solution  exactly  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  clay  solution  (see  No.  3767), 
and  a  fine  white  deposit  of  metallic  silicium. 
will  be  obtained,  provided  that  the  size  of  the 
article  is  adapted  to  the  quantity  of  the  elec- 
tric current.  Common  red  sand,  or,  indeed, 
any  kind  of  silicious  stone,  finely  powdered, 
may  be  used  in  place  of  the  white  sand,  and 
with  equal  success,  if  it  be  previously  boiled 
in  hydrochloric  acid,  to  remove  the  red  oxido 
of  iron  or  other  impurities.  In  depositing 
both  aluminum  and  silicium,  it  is  necessary  to 
well  saturate  the  acid  with  the  solid  ingre- 
dients by  boiling,  otherwise  very  little  deposit 
of  metal  will  be  obtained. 

3768.  To  Prepare  a  Brass  Solution. 
For  each  gallon  of  water  used  to  make  the  so- 
lution, take  1  pound  carbonate  of  ammonia,  1 
pound  cyanide  of  potassium,  2  ounces  cyanide 
of  copper,  and  1  ounce  cyanide  of  zinc.     This 
constitutes  the  solution  for  the  decomposing 
cell.   It  may  bo  prepared,  also,  from  the  above 
proportions   of   carbonate   of   ammonia    and 
cyanide  of  potassium,  by  immersing  in  it  a 
large  sheet  of  brass  of  the  desired   quality, 
ana  making  it  the  anode  or  positive  electrode 
of  a  powerful  galvanic  battery  or  magneto- 
electric  machine ;  and  making  a  small  piece  of 
metal  the  cathode  or  negative  electrode,  from 
which  hydrogen  must  be  freely  evolved.   This 
operation  is  continued  till .  the  solution  has 
taken  up  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  bras",  to 
produce  a  regnline  deposit. 

3769.  To  Electroplate  with  Brass. 
The  solution  (see  No.  3768)  may  be  used  cold ; 
but  it  is  desirable,  in  many  cases,  to  heat  it 
(according  to  the  nature  of  the  articles  to 
be    deposited    upon)    to    212°    Fahr.      For 
wrought  or  fancy  work,   about  150°  Fahr. 
will  give  excellent  results.     The  galvanic  bat- 
tery, or  magneto-electric  machine,  must  be 
capable  of  evolving  hydrogen  freely  from  the 
cathode  or  negative  electrode,  or  article  at- 
tached thereto.   It  is  preferred  to  have  a  large 
anode  or  positive  electrode,  as  this  favors  tho 
evolution  of  hydrogen.    The  article  or  articles 
treated  as  before  described  will  immediately 
become  coated  with  brass.     By  continuing 
the  process,  any  desired  thickness  may  be  ob- 
tained.    Should  the  copper  have  a  tendency 
to  come  down  in  a  greater  proportion  than  is 
desired,  which  may  be  known  by  the  deposit 
assuming  too  red  an  appearance,  it  is  correct- 
ed by  the  addition  of  carbonate  of  ammonia, 
or  by  a  reduction  of  temperature,  when  the 
solution  is  heated.     Should  the  zinc  have  a 
tendency  to  come  down  in  too  great  a  propor- 
tion, which  may  be  seen  by  the  deposit  being 
too  pale  in  its  appearance,  this  is  corrected  by 
the  addition  of  cyanide  of  potassium  or  by  an 
increase  of  temperature. 

3770.  To  Electroplate  with  German 
Silver.    The  alloy,  German  silver,  is  deposit- 
ed by  means  of  a  solution  consisting  of  car- 
bonate of  ammonia  and  cyanide  of  potassium 
(in  the  proportions  given  above  for  the  brass), 
and  cyanides  or  other  compounds  of  nickel, 
copper,  and  zinc,  in  the  requisite  proportions 
to  constitute  German  silver.     It  is,  however, 
preferred  to  make  the  solution  by  means  of 
the     galvanic    battery    or     magneto-electric 
machine,  as  above  described  for  brass.   Should 
the  copper  of  the  German  silver  come  down 
in  too  great  a  proportion,  this  is  corrected  by 


352 


BEONZING, 


adding  carbonate  of  ammonia,  which  brings 
down  the  zinc  more  freely ;  and  should  it  be 
necessary  to  bring  down  the  copper  in  greater 
quantity,  cyanide  of  potassium  is  added — 
such  treatment  being  similar  to  that  of  the 
brass  before  described. 


Bronzing.  This  is  the  process 
of  giving  a  bronze-like  or  an  antique 
metallic  appearance  to  the  surface  of  copper, 
brass,  and  other  metals.  This  is  generally 
effected  by  the  action  of  some  substance 
which  combines  with  and  changes  the  nature 
of  the  surface  of  the  metal.  The  application 
of  powdered  bronzing  substances,  made  to 
adhere  by  sizing,  <tc.,  to  the  surface  of  other 
material  than  metal,  such  as  wood,  plaster, 
«fec.,  is  termed  surface  bronzing.  (See  Nos. 
3382,  <fc.) 

3772.  Brown   Bronzes  for   Medals, 
&C.     Take  a  wine-glass  of  water,  and  add  to 
it  4  or  5  drops  nitric  acid ;  with  this  solution 
wet  the  medal  (which  ought  to  have  been 
previously  well  cleaned  from  oil  or  grease) 
and  then  allow  it  to  dry ;   when  dry  impart 
to  it  a  gradual  and  equable  heat,  by  which 
the  surface  will  be  darkened  in  proportion  to 
the  heat  applied. 

3773.  Bronzing  with.  Crocus.     Make 
a  thin  paste  of  crocus  and  water;    lay  this 
paste  on  the  face  of  the  medal,  which  must 
then  be  put  into  an  oven,  or  laid  on  an  iron 
plate  over  a  slow  fire ;  when  the  paste  is  per- 
fectly reduced  to  powder,  brush  it  off  and  lay 
on  another  coating ;  at  the  same  time  quicken 
the  fire,  taking  care  that  the  additional  heat 
is  uniform ;  as  soon  as  the  second  application 
of  paste  is  thoroughly  dried,  brush  it  off. 
The    medal    being    now   effectually  secured 
from  grease,  which  often  occasions  failures  in 
bronzing,  coat  it  a  third  time,  but  add  to  the 
strength  of  the  fire,  and  sustain  the  heat  for 
a  considerable  time ;  a  little  experience  will 
soon  finable  the  operator  to  decide  when  the 
medal  may  be  withdrawn ;  the  third  coating 
being  removed,   the   surface  will    present  a 
beautiful  brown  bronze.      If  the  bronze  is 
deemed  too  light  the  process  can  be  repeated. 

3774.  Bronzing    with    Black-Lead. 
After  the  medal  has  been  well  cleaned  from 
wax  or    grease,   by  washing    it  in  a  little 
caustic  alkali,   brush  some   black-lead  over 
the  face  of  it,  and  then  heat  it  in  the  same 
way  as  described  in  ISTo.  3773  for  crocus ;  or  a 
thin  paste  of  black-lead  may  be  used,  and  the 
processes  already  referred  to  be  repeated  until 
the  desired  brown  tint  is  obtained.     In  this 
kind  of  bronze  a  little  hematitic  iron  ore, 
which  has  an  unctuous  feel,  may  be  brushed 
over  the  face   of   the  bronze,   by  which    a 
beautiful  lustre  is  imparted  to  it,  and  a  con- 
siderable variety  in  the  shade   may  be  ob- 
tained.   In  the  brown  bronzes  the  copper  is 
slightly  oxidized  on  the  surface. 

3775.  Plumbago  Bronze.    This  bronze 
is  obtained  by  brushing  the  surface  of  the 
medal  with  plumbago,  then  placing  it  on  a 
clear  fire  till  it  is  made  too  hot  to  be  touched, 
and  applying  a  plate  brush  so  soon  as  it  ceases 
to  be  hot  enough  to  burn  the  brush.     A  few 
strokes  of  the  brush  will    produce   a  dark 


brown  polish,  approaching  black,  but  entirely 
distinct  from  the  well  known  appearance  of 
black-lead.  If  the  same  operation  is  per- 
formed on  a  medal  that  has  been  kept  some 
days,  or  upon  one  that  has  been  polished,  a 
different,  but  very  brilliant  tint  is  produced. 
The  color  is  between  red  and  brown.  The 
richness  of  color  thus  produced  is  by  many 
preferred  to  the  true  dark  brown. 

3776.  Chinese  Bronze.     Take  2  ounces 
each  verdigris  and  vermilion  ;  5  ounces  each 
alum  and  sal-ammoniac,  all  in  fine  powder, 
and  sufficient  vinegar  to  make  a  paste ;  then 
spread  it  over  the  surface  of  the  copper,  pre- 
viously well  cleaned   and  brightened ;    uni- 
formly warm  the  article  by  the  fire,  and  after- 
wards well  wash  and  dry  it,  when,  if  the  tint 
be  not  deep  enough,  the  process  may  be  re- 
peated.    The  addition  of  a  little  sulphate  of 
copper'  inclines    the    color    to    a    chestnut 
brown;    and  a  little   borax    to   a  yellowish 
brown.     Much  employed  by  the  Chinese  for 
copper  tea-urns. 

3777.  Carbonate    of    Iron    Bronze. 
Beautiful  tints  arc  produced  by  using  plate- 
powder  or  rouge.     After  moistening  with  wa- 
ter, it  is  applied  and  treated  in  precisely  the 
same  manner  as  the  plumbago.     (See  No. 
3775.) 

3778.  Black   Bronzes.     A  very  dark 
colored  bronze  may  be  obtained  by  using  a 
little  sulphuretted  alkali  (sulphuret   of  am- 
monia is   best).     The  face  of  the  medal  is 
washed  over  with  the  solution,  which  should 
be  dilute,  and  the  medal   dried  at  a  gentle 
heat,  and  afterwards  polished  wh-h  ft  hard 
hair  brush.      Sulphuretted   hydrogen   gas   is 
sometimes  employed  to  give  this  black  bronze, 
but  the  effect  of  it  is  not  so  good,  and  the  gas 
is  very  deleterious  when  breathed.     In  these 
bronzes  the  surface  of  the  copper  is  converted 
into  a  sulphuret. 

3779.  German  Method  of  Bronzing 
Brass  Black.      There  are  two  methods  of 
procuring  a  black  lacquer  upon  the  surface  of 
brass.     The  one  which  is  that  usually  em- 
ployed for  optical  and  scientific  instruments, 
consists  in  first   polishing  the    object  with 
Tripoli,  then  washing  it  with  a  mixture  com- 
posed of  1  part  nitrate   of  tin   and  2  parts 
chloride  of  gold,  and,  after  allowing  this  wash 
to  remain  on  for  about   12  or   15  minutes, 
wiping  it  off  with  a  linen  cloth.     An  excess 
of  acid  increases  the  intensity  of  the  tint.     In 
the  other  method,  copper  turnings   are   dis- 
solved iu  nitric  acid  until  the  acid  is  satura- 
ted ;  the  objects  are  immersed  in  the  solution, 
cleaned,  and  subsequently  Seated  moderately 
over  a  charcoal  fire.     This  process  must  be 
repeated  in  order  to  produce  a  black  color,  as 
the  first  trial  only  gives  a  deep  green ;  when 
the   desired   color  is   attained,    the   finishing 
touch  is  given  by  polishing  with  olive  oil. 

3780.  Black  Bronzes.     Many  metallic 
solutions,   such   as   weak   acid    solutions    of 
platinum,    gold,   palladium,    antimony,   etc., 
will   impart  a  dark  color   to  the  surface  of 
medals  when  they  are  dipped  into  them.     The 
medal,  after  being  dipped  into  the  metallic  so- 
lution, is  to  be  well  washed  and  brushed.     In 
such  bronzes  the  metals  contained  in  the  so- 
lution are  precipitated  upon  the  face  of  the 
copper  medal,  which  effect    is   accompanied 
by  a  partial  solution  of  the  copper. 


BRONZING. 


353 


3781.  Green  Bronzes  for  Figures 
and  Busts.  Green  bronzes  require  a  little 
more  time  than  those  already  described. 
They  depend  upon  the  formation  of  an 
acetate,  carbonate,  or  other  green  salt  of  cop- 
per upon  the  surface  of  the  medal.  Steeping 
for  some  days  in  a  strong  solution  of  common 
salt  will  give  a  partial  bronzing  which  is  very 
beautiful,  and,  if  washed  in  water  and  allowed 
to  dry  slowly,  is  very  permanent.  Sal  am- 
moniac may 'bo  substituted  for  common  salt. 
Even  a  strong  solution  of  sugar,  alone,  or 
with  a  little  acetic  or  oxalic  acid,  will  produce 
a  green  bronze ;  so  also  will  exposure  to  the 
fumes  of  dilute  acetic  acid,  to  weak  fumes 
of  hydrochloric  acid,  and  to  several  other 
vapors.  A  dilute  solution  of  ammonia  al- 
lowed to  dry  upon  the  copper  surface  will 
leave  a  green  tint,  but  not  very  permanent. 

3782.  Bronzing  with  Bleaching 
Powder.  Electrotypes  may  be  bronzed 
green,  having  the  appearance  of  ancient 
bronze,  by  a  very  simple  process.  Take  a 
small  portion  of  bleaching  powder  (chloride  of 
lime),  place  it  in  the  bottom  of  a  dry  vessel, 
and  suspend  the  medal  over  it,  and  cover  the 
vessel ;  in  a  short  time  the  medal  will  acquire 
a  green  coating,  the  depth  of  which  may  be 
regulated  by  the  quantity  of  bleaching  pow- 
der used,  or  the  time  that  the  medal  is 
suspended  in  its  fumes ;  of  course,  any  sort  of 
vessel,  or  any  means  by  which  the  electro- 
type may  be  exposed  to  the  furnes  of  the 
powder,  will  answer  the  purpose;  a  few 
grains  of  the  powder  is  all  that  is  required. 
According  as  the  medal  is  clean  or  tarnished, 
dry  or  wet,  when  suspended,  different  tints, 
with  different  degrees  of  adhesion,  will  be  ob- 
tained. 

3783.  Fine  Green  Bronze.  Dissolve 
2  ounces  verdigris  and  1  ounce  sal-ammoniac 
in  1  pint  vinegar,  and  dilute  the  mixture 
with  water  until  it  tastes  but  slightly  metallic, 
when  it  must 'bo  boiled  for  a  few  minutes, 
and  filtered  for  use.  Copper  medals,  &c.,  pre- 
viously thoroughly  cleaned  from  grease  and 
dirt,  are  to  bo  steeped  in  the  liquor  at  the 
boiling  point,  until  the  desired  effect  is  pro- 
duced. Care  must  bo  taken  not  to  keep  them 
in  the  solution  too  long.  "When  taken  out, 
they  should  be  carefully  washed  in  hot  water, 
and  well  dried.  Gives  an  antique  appearance. 
3784.  To  Bronze  Brass  Orange, 
Greenish  Grey  and  Violet  Tint.  An 
orange  tint,  inclining  to  gold,  is  produced  by 
first  polishing  the  brass,  and  then  plunging  it 
for  a  few  seconds  into  a  neutral  solution  of 
crystallized  acetate  of  copper,  care  being 
taken  that  the  solution  is  completely  destitute 
of  all  free  acid,  and  possesses  a  warm  temper- 
ature. Dipped  into  a  bath  of  copper,  the 
resulting  tint  is  a  greyish  green,  while  a  beau- 
tiful violet  is  obtained  by  immersing  it  for  a 
single  instant  in  a  solution  of  chloride  of  an- 
timony, and  rubbing  it  with  a  stick  covered 
with  cotton.  The  temperature  of  the  brass 
at  the  time  the  operation  is  ia  progress  has  a 
great  influence  upon  tho  beauty  and  delicacy 
of  the  tint ;  in  the  last  instance  it  should  be 
heated  to  a  degree  so  as  just  to  bo  tolerable  to 
the  touch. 

3785.  Moire  Bronze.  A  moire  appear- 
ance, vastly  superior  to  that  usually  seen,  is 
produced  by  boiling  tho  object  in  a  solution 


of  sulphate  of  copper.  According  to  the  pro- 
portions observed  between  the  zinc  and  tho 
copper  in  the  composition  of  the  brass  article, 
so  will  the  tints  obtained  vary.  In  many  in- 
stances it  requires  the  employment  of  a  slight 
degree  of  friction  with  a  resinous  or  waxy 
varnish,  to  bring  out  the  wavy  appearance 
characteristic  of  moire,  which  is  also  singular- 
ly enhanced  by  dropping  a  few  iron  nails  into 
the  bath. 

3786.  French   Bronze.     An    eminent 
Parisian  sculptor  makes  use  of  a  mixture  of 
£  ounce  sal-ammoniac,  k  ounce  common  salt, 
1  ounce  spirits  of  hartshorn,  and  1  imperial 
quart  of  vinegar.    A  good  result  will  also  be 
obtained  by  substituting  an  additional  &  ounce 
sal-ammoniac,  instead  of  the  spirits  of  harts- 
horn.   The  piece  of  metal,  being  well  cleaned, 
is  to  be  rubbed  with  one  of  these  solutions, 
and  then  dried  by  friction  with  a  clean  brush. 
If  tho  hue  be  found  too  pale  at  the  end  of  2 
or  3  days,  the  operation  may  be  repeated.     It 
is  found  to  be  more  advantageous  to  operate 
in  the  sunshine  than  in  the  shade. 

3787.  To  Bronze  Copper  with  Sul- 
phur.    When  objects  made  of  copper  are 
immersed  in  melted  sulphur  mixed  with  lamp- 
black, the  objects  so  treated  obtain  the  ap- 
pearance of  bronze,  and  can  be  polished  with- 
out losing  that  aspect. 

3788.  Antique   Bronze.      Dissolve    1 
ounce  sal-ammoniac,  3  ounces  cream  of  tar- 
tar, and  6  ounces  common  salt,  in  1  pint  hot 
water ;  then  add  2  ounces  nitrate  of  copper, 
dissolved  in  i  pint  water;  mix  well,  and  apply 
it  repeatedly  to  the  article,  placed  in  a  damp 
situation,  by  means  of  a  b'rush  moistened 
therewith.     This  produces    a  very    antique 
effect. 

3789.  Antique  Bronze.    Hub  the  medal 
with  a  solution  of  sulphuret  of  potassium, 
then  dry.     This  produces  the  appearance  of 
antique  bronze  very  exactly. 

3790.  Bronzing  Liquids  for  Tin  Cast- 
ings.     Wash  them  over,   after  being  well 
cleaned  and  wiped,  with  a  solution  of  1  part 
sulphate  of  iron,  and  1  part  sulphate  of  cop- 
per, in  20  parts  water ;  afterwards  with  a  so- 
lution of  4  parts  verdigris  in  11  of  distilled 
yinegar ;  leave  for  an  hour  to  dry,  and  then 
polish  with  a  soft  brush  and  crocus. 

3791.  To  Bronze  Iron  Castings. 
Iron  castings  may  be  bronzed  by  thorough 
cleaning  (see  No.  3G41)  and  subsequent  im- 
mersion in  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper, 
when  they  acquire  a  coat  of  the  latter  metal. 
They  must  be  then  washed  in  water. 

3792.  Surface  Bronzing.     This  term  is 
applied  to  tho  process  of  imparting  to  tho 
surfaces  of  figures  of  wood,  plaster  of  Paris, 
<fec.,  a  metallic  appearance.    This  is  done  by 
first  giving  them  a  coat  of  oil  or  sizo  varnish, 
and  when  this  is  nearly  dry,  applying  with  a 
dabbcr  of  cotton  or  a  camel-hair  pencil,  any 
of  tho  metallic  bronze  powders ;  or  the  pow- 
der may  bo  placed  in  a  little  bag  of  muslin, 
and  dusted  over  the  surface,  and  afterwards 
finished  off  with  a  wad  of  linen.    Tho  surface 
must  be  afterwards  varnished. 

3793.  To   Bronze   Paper.     Paper   is 
bronzed  by  mixing  the  powders  up  with  a 
little  gum  and  water,' and  afterwards  burnish- 
ing.  The  paper  used  should  contain  sufficient 
sizing  not  to  absorb  the  gum. 


354:  BRONZING. 

3794.  Beautiful  Bed  Bronze  Powder. 

Mix  together  sulphate  of  copper,  100  parts ; 
carbonate  of  soda,  60  parts ;  apply  heat  until 
they  unite  into  a  mass,  then  cool,  powder,  and 
add  copper  filings,  15  parts;  well  mix,  and 
keep  them  at  a  white  heat  for  20  minutes, 
then  cool,  powder,  wash  thoroughly  with 
water,  and  dry. 

3795.  Gold  Colored  Bronze  Powder. 
Yerdigris,  8  ounces ;  .tutty  powder,  4  ounces ; 
borax  and  nitre,  each  2  ounces ;  bichloride  of 
mercury,  J  ounce;  make  them  into  a  paste 
with  oil,  and  fuse  them  together.     Used  in 
japanning  as  a  gold  color.     Or :  Grind  Dutch 
foil  or  pure  gold  leaf  to  an  impalpable  powder. 
(See  Nos.  2491  and  2517.) 

3796.  Silver  White  Bronze  Powder. 
Melt  together  1  ounce  each  bismuth  and  tin, 
then  add  1  ounce  running  quicksilver;  cool 
and  powder. 

3797.  Graham's  Quick  Bronzing  Li- 
quids.  The  following  19  receipts  are  prepara- 
tions for  bronzing  brass,  copper,  and  zinc,  by 
simple  immersion.      Their  action  is  imme- 
diate. 

3798.  Black  or  Brown  Bronzing  for 
Brass,    Copper,     or    Zinc.      Dissolvo    5 
drachms  nitrate  of  iron  in  1  pint  water.   Or :  5 
drachms  perchloride  of  iron  in  1  pint  water. 
A  black  may  also  be  obtained  from  10  ounces 
muriate  of  arsenic  in  2  pints  permuriate  of 
iron,  and  1  pint  water. 

3799.  Brown  or  Red  Bronzing  for 
Brass.    "Dissolve  16  drachms  nitrate  of  iron, 
and  16  drachms  hyposulphite  of  soda,  in  1  pint 
water.    Or :  1  drachm  nitric  acid  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  nitrate  of  iron. 

3800.  Bed-Brown  Bronzing  for  Brass. 
Dissolve  1  ounce  nitrate  of  copper,  and  1 
ounce  oxalic  acid,  in  1  pint  water,  brought 
to  the  boil,  and  then  cooled.  Or:  1  pint 
solution  of  ferrocyanide  .of  potassium  and  3 
drachms  nitric  acid.  This  latter  is  slow  in 
action,  taking  an  hour  to  produce  good  re- 
sults. 

3801.  Dark  Brown  Bronzing  for 
Brass.  Mix  1  ounce  cyanide  of  potassium, 
and  4  drachms  nitric  acid,  with  1  pint  water. 

3802.  Bed  Bronzing  for  Brass.    Mix 
30  grains  tersulphite  of  arsenic,  6  drachms  so- 
lution of  pearl  ash,  and  1  pint  water. 

3803.  Orange  Bronzing  for  Brass. 
Mix  1  drachm  potash  solution  of  sulphur  with 

1  pint  water. 

3804.  Olive    Green    Bronzing    for 
Brass.     Dissolvo  1  pint  permuriate  of  iron,  in 

2  pints  water. 

3805.  Slate-Colored    Bronzing    for 
Brass.     Dissolve  2  drachms  sulphocyanide 
of  potassium,  and  5  drachms  perchloride  of 
iron,  in  1  pint  water. 

3806.  Blue  Bronzing  for  Brass.    Mix 
20  drachms  hyposulphite  of  soda  with  1  pint 
water. 

3807.  Steel-Grey  Bronzing  for  Brass, 
or  Copper.     Mix  1  ounce  muriate  of  arsenic 
with  1  pint  water,  and  use  at  a  heat  not  less 
than  180°  Fahr. 

3808.  Dark  Drab  Bronzing  for  Cop- 
per.    This  is  prepared  by  adding  2  drachms 
sulphocyanide  of  potassium  to  the  mixture 
given  in  No.  3807.    Or :  mix  1  ounce  sulphate 
of  copper,  1  ounce  hyposulphite  of  soda,  2 
drachms  hydrochloric  acid,  and  1  pint  water. 


3809.  Bright  Bed  Bronzing  for  Cop- 
per.    Mix  2  drachms  sulphide  of  antimony, 
and  1  ounce  pearlash,  in  1  pint  water. 

3810.  Dark  Bed  Bronzing  for  Cop- 
per.   Dissolve  1  drachm  sulphur,  and  1  ounce 
pearlash,  in  1  pint  water. 

3811.  Dark  Grey  Bronzing  for  Zinc. 
Mix   1   drachm  protochloride  of  tin,    and   1 
drachm  sulphocyanide  of  potassium,  with  1 
pint  water.     Or :  Dissolve  1  drachm  each  sul- 
phate of  copper  and  muriate  of  iron,  in  2  pints 
water.    A  similar  effect  may  be  obtained  by 
mixing  muriate  of  lead  with  water  to  the  con- 
sistency of  cream. 

3812.  Green-Grey  Bronzing  for  Zinc. 
Dissolve  i  drachm  muriate  of  iron  in  1  pint 
water. 

3813.  Bed  Bronzing  for  Zinc.      Use 
garancine  (madder-red)  infusion  boiling  hot. 

3814.  Copper-Colored  Bronzing  for 
Zinc.     Agitate  the  articles  in  a  solution  of  8 
drachms  sulphate  of  copper,  and  8  drachms 
hyposulphite  of  soda,  in  1  pint  water. 

3815.  Copper-Colored  Bronzing  for 
Zinc  Plates.     Make  a  solution  of  4  drachms 
sulphate  of  copper,  and  4  drachms  pearlash,  in 

pint  water.  Immerse  the  zinc  plate  in  it, 
connected  at  one  end  with  a  plate  of  copper, 
as  represented  in  Fig.  I,  No.  3665.  This,  it 
will  be  seen,  induces  a  galvanic  current,  and 
is  electroplating  on  a  small  scale. 

3816.  Purple  Bronzing  for  Zinc.    Im- 
merse in  a  boiling  infusion  of  logwood. 

3817.  Larkin's  Bronzing  Fluids  for 
Alloys  of  a  Silvery-Grey    Color.      Mr. 
Larkin  states  that,  for  the  purpose  of  render- 
ing alloys  which  are  of  a  silvery-grey  color, 
perfectly  suitable  as  substitutes  for  copper, 
bronze,   brass,   and  other  metals,   the  color 
proper  to  tho  metals  which  they  are  intended 
to  substitute  is  imparted  to  them  by  means 
of    any    solution    of   copper.       The    hydro- 
chlorate  of  copper  is  found  to  answer  best, 
and  is  employed  as  directed  in'the  five  follow- 
ing receipts. 

3818.  Directions  for  Using  Larkin's 
Bronzing  Fluids.     In  cither  of  these  meth- 
ods of  coloring,  a  solution  of  sal-ammoniac 
may  be  substituted  for  the  liquid  ammonia. 
The  quantities  of  each  ingredient  have  not 
been  stated,  as  these  depend  upon  the  nature 
of  the  alloy,  the  shade  or  hue  desired,  and  the 
durability  required.     The  bluish-bronze  color 
may  be  superaddcd  to  the  red  or  copper  color, 
whereby  a  beautiful  light  color  is  produced  on 
the  prominent  parts  of  the  article  bronzed,  or  on 
the  parts  from  which  the  blackish-bronze  color 
may  have  been  nibbed  off.     These  new  alloys 
may  be  used  as  substitutes  for  various  metals 
now  in  general  use,  such  as  iron,  lead,  tin,  or 
copper,  in  pipes  and  tubes;  and  bronze,  brass, 
and  copper,  in  machinery  and  manufactories, 
as  well  as  for  most  of  tho  other  purposes  for 
which  more  expensive  metals  are  employed. 

3819.  Blackish  Bronze  Coloring. 
For  giving  silvery-grey  alloys  a  blackish- 
bronze  color,  they  are  treated  with  a  solution 
of  hydrochlorate  of  copper  diluted  with  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  water,  and  a  small  quan- 
tity of  nitric  acid  may  be  added. 

3820.  Lead  or  Copper  Coloring.  To 
impart  a  lead  or  copper  color,  add  to  the  so- 
lution of  hydrochlorate  of  copper,  liquid  am- 
monia and  a  little  acetic  acid.  The  salt 


CHEMICAL   MANIPULATIONS. 


355 


of  copper  may  be  dissolved  in  the  liquid  am- 
monia. 

3821.  Antique  Bronze  Coloring.  To 
impart  a  brass  or  antique  bronze  color,  either 
of  the  three  following  means  may  be  adopt- 
ed : — A  solution  of  copper,  with  some  acetic 
acid.  Or : — The  means  before  described  for 
copper  color,  with  a  largo  proportion  of  liquid 
ammonia.  Or  : — "Water  acidulated  with  nitric 
acid,  by  which  beautiful  bluish  shades  may 
be  produced.  It  must  be  observed,  however, 
this  last  process  can  only  be  properly  employ- 
ed on  the  alloys  which  contain  a  portion  of 


copper. 
3822. 


Drab  Bronze  for  Brass.     Brass 


obtains  a  very  beautiful  drab  bronze  by  being 
worked  in  moulders'  damp  sand  for  a  short 
time  and  brushed  up. 
3823.  To  Make 
Plaster  Casts,  &c. 


Bronze  Powder  for 

To  a  solution  of  soda- 


soap  in  linseed  oil,  cleared  by  straining,  add 
a  mixture  of  4  pints  sulphate  of  copper  solu- 
tion, and  1  pint  sulphate  of  iron  solution, 
which  precipitates  a  metallic  soap  of  a  pecu- 
liar bronza  hue;  wash  with  cold  water,  strain, 
and  dry  to  powder. 

3824.  To  Bronze  Plaster  Casts,  &c. 
The  powdered  soap  of  the  last  receipt  is  thus 
applied  :  Boil  3  pounds  pure  linseed  oil  with 
12  ounces   finely  powdered  litharge;   strain 
through  a  coarse  canvas  cloth,  and  allow  to 
stand  until  clear ;  15  ounces  of  this  soap  var- 
nish, mixed   with   12  ounces  metallic    soap 
powder  (see  last  receipt],  and  5  ounces  fine 
white  wax,  are  to  be  melted  together  at  a 
gentle  heat  in  a  porcelain  basin,  by  means  of 
a  water-bath,  and  allowed  to  remain  for  a 
time  in  a  melted  state  to  expel  any  moisture 
that  it  may  contain ;  it  is  then  applied  with  a 
brush  to  the  surface  of  the  plaster  previously 
heated  to  200°  Pahr.,  being  careful  to  lay  it 
on  smoothly,  and  without  filling  up  any  small 
indentations  of  the  plaster  design.     Place  it 
for  a  few  days  in  a  cool  place;  and,  as  soon 
as  the  smell  of  the  soap  varnish  has  gone  off, 
rub  the  surface  over  with  cotton  wool,  or  fine 
linen  rag,  and  variegated  with  a  few  streaks 
of  metal  powder  or  shell  gold.     Small  ob- 
jects may  be  dipped  in  the  melted  mixture, 
and  exposed  to  the  heat  of  a  fire  till  thor- 
oughly penetrated  and  evenly  coated  with  it. 

3825.  To  Make  Bronzing  for  Wood. 
Grind  separately  to  a  fine  powder,  Prussian 
blue,  chrome  yellow,  raw  umber,  lampblack, 
and  clay,  and  mix  in  such  proportions  as  will 
produce  a  desired  dark  green  hue ;  then  mix 
with  moderately  strong  glue  size. 

3826.  To  Bronze  Wood.     First    coat 
the  clean   wood  with  a  mixture  of  size  and 
lampblack  ;  then  apply  two  coats  of  the  green 
colored  sizing  in  the  last  receipt;  and  lastly 
with  bronza  powcLer,  such  as  powdered  Dutch 
foil,  mosaic  gold,  &c.,  laid  on  with  a  brush. 
Finish  with  a  thin  solution  of  Castile  soap ; 
and,  when  dry,  rub  with  a  soft  woolen  cloth. 

3827.  To    Bronze    Porcelain,   Stone- 
ware, and  Composition  Picture  Frames. 
A  bronzing  process,   applicable  to  porcelain, 
stoneware,  and  composition  picture  and  look- 
ing-glass frames  is  performed  as  follows  :  The 
articles  are  first  done  over  with  a  thin  solution 
of  water-glass   (see  No.  2816)  by  the  aid  of  a 
soft  brush.     Bronze  powder  is  then  dusted  on, 


by  a  few  gentle  taps.  The  article  is  next 
heated,  to  dry  the  silicate,  and  the  bronze  be- 
comes firmly  attached.  Probably,  in  the  caso 
of  porcelain,  biscuit,  or  stoneware,  some 
chemical  union  of  the  silicate  will  take  piace, 
but  in  other  cases  the  water-glass  will  only 
tend  to  make  the  bronze  powder  adhere 
to  the  surface.  After  the  heating,  the  bronze 
may  be  polished  or  burnished  with  agate 


Browning  for    Gun    Barrels. 


: :  Mix  equal  parts  of  butter  of  antimony 
sweet  oil,  and  apply  the  mixture  to  the 


tools. 
3828. 

Mix  1  ounce  each  aqua-fortis  and  sweet  spirits 
of  nitre;  4  ounces  powdered  blue  vitriol;  2 
ounces  tincture  of  iron,  and  water,  1£  pints; 
agitate  until  dissolved. 

Or:  Blue  vitriol  and  sweet  spirits  of  nitre, 
of  each  1  ounce;  water,  1  pint;  dissolve  as 
last. 

Or 
and 
iron  previously  warmed. 

3829.  To  Brown  Gun  Barrels.  The 
gun  barrel  to  be  browned  must  be  first  pol- 
ished and  then  rubbed  with  whiting  to  remove 
all  oily  matter.  Its  two  ends  should  be  stop- 
ped with  wooden  rods,  which  serve  as  handles, 
and  the  touch-hole  filled  with  wax.  Then  rub 
on  the  solution  (see  last  receipt)  with  a  linen 
rag  or  sponge  till  the  whole  surface  is  equally 
moistened.  Let  it  remain  till  the  next  day, 
then  rub  it  off  with  a  stiff  brush.  The  liquid 
may  be  again  applied  until  a  proper  color  is 
produced.  When  this  is  the  case,  wash  in 
pearlash  water,  and  afterwards  in  clean  water, 
and  then  polish,  either  with  the  burnisher  or 
with  bees'  wax ;  or  apply  a  coat  of  shellac 
varnish.  (See  No.  2954.) 


Manipulations. 

Some  of  the  "operations  employed  in 
the  preparation  and  use  of  chemicals  have  al- 
ready been  given  at  the  commencement  of  this 
book  (see  No.  1);  but,  as  the  work  progressed, 
it  was  deemed  advisable,  for  the  pake  of 
greater  precision,  to  add  further  directions  for 
special  manipulations,  and  descriptions  of  in- 
dispensable apparatus. 

3831.  Separating  Funnels.  These  are 
glass  funnels  furnished  with  a  stop-cock,  and 
are  used  for  separating  mixed  fluids  of  differ- 
ent densities.  The  mixed  liquid  is  poured  in- 


Fig.l. 


Fig.  2. 


to  the  funnel,  and,  after  sufficient  time  haa 
been  allowed  for  the  heavier  liquid  to  settle, 
it  can  be  drawn  off  by  opening  the  stop-cock, 


and  any  excess  not  adherent  is  knocked  off!  closing  it  immediately  after  the  heavy  liquid 


356 


CHEMICAL   MANIPULATIONS. 


has  passed.  Fig.  1  represents  a  separating 
funnel,  such  as  is  used  for  ordinary  purposes ; 
but  for  separating  a  mixed  liquid  containing 
ether  or  other  volatile  fluid,  a  funnel,  closed 
•with  a  stopper  similar  in  construction  to  Fig. 
2,  is  employed  to  prevent  evaporation  while 
the  heavier  liquid  is  settling.  For  very  small 
quantities  a  pipette  (see  No.  3832)  is  the  best 
instrument. 

3832.  Pipettes.  These  are  glass  instru- 
ments used  for  measuring  liquids  in  drops, 
and  so  constructed  that  the  flow  of  the  liquid 
from  them  is  under  the  complete  control  of 
the  operator.  They  may  be  made  in 
any  form  which  may  be  suggested  to 
adapt  them  to  special  purposes;  but 
pipettes  for  general  use  are  usually 
constructed  as  follows :  Fig.  1  is  an 
ordinary  pipette,  and  consists  of  a  small 
cylinder  of  glass  with  an  upper  and 
lower  tube,  the  lower  end  terminating 
in  a  fine  orifice  for  the  discharge  of 
the  fluid,  and  the  upper  end  adapted 
for  the  finger  or  thumb,  by  which  the 
outward  flow  can  be  instantly  arrested. 
This  is  filled  by  the  suction  of  the 
mouth.  Fig.  2  is  made  on  the  same 
principle,  having  a  fine  orifice  (6),  and 
a  thumb-hole  (a),  but  fitted  with  a 
mouth  and  stopper  on  the  upper  side, 
for  convenience  of  filling,  or  insert-  j^g  j 
ing  a  measured  quantity  of  liquid.  The 
lower  side  being  flat,  to  allow  of  the  instru- 
ment being  laid  down  without  risk  of  waste 
of  contents. 


Fig.  2. 

A  pipette  affords  also  a  ready  means  of 
separating  two  liquids,  too  small  in  quanti- 
ty to  allow  of  separation  by  decantation  or 
other  methods  usually  employed.  To  this 
end,  the  upper  or  lower  stratum  of  the  mixed 
liquids  (oil  and  water,  for  instance),  may  be 
drawn  by  the  mouth  into  the  pipette ;  or  the 
whole  may  be  sucked  into  the  pipette,  and 
the  lower  stratum  allowed  to  flow  out. 

Graduated  pipettes  of  various  forms,  espe- 
cially useful  in  acidimetry,  <fcc.,  will  bo  found 
described  in  No.  82.  These  instruments  are 
also  useful,  and  in  many  cases  indispensable, 
in  conducting  delicate  tests. 

3833.  Goniometer.  An  instrument 
used  for  measuring  the  angles  of  cr3Tstals. 
The  only  accurate  and  simple  instrument  of 
this  kind  is  the  reflective  goniometer  invented 
by  Dr.  Wollaston. 

,  3834.  To  Filter  Vegetable  Juices. 
These  should  be  allowed  to  deposit  their  lecu- 
Ipus  matter  before  filtration.  The  supernatant 
liquid  will  often  be  found  quite  clear ;  when 
this  is  not  the  case,  filtration  will  be  necessary 
through  coarse  filtering  paper.  (See  No.  17.) 
Some  vegetable  juices  can  bo  made  clear 
Bimply  by  heating  them  to  180°  to  200°  Fahr., 
by  which  their  albumen  becomes  coagulated. 

Others  admit  of  clarification  in  the  same 
manner  as  syrups.  (See  No.  1357.)  Many  of 
these,  again,  such  as  hemlock,  henbane,  aco- 


nite, <fcc.,  are  greatly  injured  by  heat,  and 
must  be  filtered  or  decanted  after  repose. 

3835.  To  Filter  Vegetable  Infusions. 
In  many  instances   vegetable   infusions  and 
decoctions  may  be  clarified  by  defecation  and 
decautatiou  of  the  clear  liquid.     A  convenient 
method  of  straining,  when  that  is  necessary, 
is  by  securing  the  corners  of  a  square  piece  of 
flannel  to  a  frame,  which  can  be  laid  over  the 
mouth  of  a  pan ;    or  by  laying  the  flannel 
across  the  mouth  of  a  coarse  hair-sieve.     Con- 
centrated   infusions    and    decoctions,   being 
usually  weak  tinctures,    may  be  filtered  as 
tinctures.      (See  No.  17.)    Yiscid  vegetable 
solutions  may  be  clarified  (see  No.  1357);  or 
may  be  made  to  filter  rapidly  by  the  addition 
of  acetic,  sulphuric,  or  other  strong  acid. 

3836.  To  Filter   Corrosive  Liquids. 
Strong  acids,  <fec.,  are  filtered  through  pow- 
dered glass  or  siliceous  sand,  supported  on 
pebbles  in  the  throat  of  a  glass  funnel,  or 
through  asbestos  placed  in  the  .same  manner. 

3837.  To  Filter  Precipitates.    When 
filtration  is  employed  to  separate  precipitated 
matter  from  the  solution  in  which  it  is  sus- 
pended, the  filtering  medium  should  be  such 
that  the  powder  may  be  easily  reclaimed  from 
it  with  as  little  loss  as  possible.     Linen  or 
smooth  bibulous  paper  are  the  best  for  this 
purpose.     A  camel-hair  pencil  should  be  used, 
if  needed,  in  preference  to  a  knife,  to  remove 
adhering  powder  from  a  filter,  and  the  pre- 
cipitate should  be  first  washed    down    the 
sides  of  the  filter  by  a  small  stream  of  water, 
so  as  to  collect  the  most  of  it  to  one  spot  at 
the  bottom. 

The  first  runnings  in  filtration  should  al- 
ways be  returned  to  the  filter. 

3838.  Bunsen's   Method   of   Rapid 
Filtration.     A  great  deal  of  time  is  frequent- 
ly lost  in  washing  precipitates,  by  having  to 
wait  for  the  liquid  to  pass  through  a  filter. 
Bunseu's  improvement  consists  in  fixing  the 
filtering  funnel  air-tight,  by  means  of  a  per- 
forated cork  in  the  neck  of  a  bottle  which 
has  an  opening  connected  with  the  receiver 
of  an  air-pump.     By  exhausting  the  air  in  the 
bottle,  the  liquid  will  run  faster  through  the 
filter  in  propertion  to  the  diminution  of  the 
pressure  in  the  bottle.     Comparative  experi- 
ments, some  made  according  to  the  old,  and 
others  according  to  the  new  method,  showing 
that  the  filtration,  washing,  and  drying  of  a 
precipitate,  which  took  7  hours  by  the  old 
plan,  could  be  performed,  by  filtration  into 
an  exhausted  bottle,  in  13  minutes. 

3839.  Filtering  Powders.     In  many 
cases  a  liquid  will  not  readily  become  trans- 
parent by  simply  passing  through  the  filter ; 
hence  has  arisen  the  use  of  filtering  powders, 
substances  which  rapidly  choke  up  the  pores 
of  the  media  in  a  sufficient  degree  to  make 
the  fluid  pass  clear.     These  powders  should 
not  be  in  too  fine  a  state  of  division,  nor  used 
in  largo  quantities,  as  they  then  wholly  choke 
up  the  filter,  and  absorb  a  largo  quantity  of 
the    liquid.      For    some    liquids    these  sub- 
stances   are   employed    for    the    purpose    of 
decoloring  or  whitening  them.     In  such  cases, 
it  is  preferable  first  to  pass  the  fluid  through 
a  layer  of  the  substance  in  coarse  powder, 
from  which  it  will  run  but  slightly  contami- 
nated into  the  filters :  or,  if  the  substance  be 
mixed  with  the  whole  body  of  the  liquid,  to 


CHEMICAL   MANIPULATIONS. 


357 


pass  it  through  some  coarser  medium,  to  re- 
move the  cruder  portion,  before  allowing  it  to 
run  into  the  filter.  Fuller's  earth,  pipe  clay, 
or  potter's  clay,  washed,  dried  without  heat, 
and  reduced  to  coarse  powder,  aro  used  to 
filter  and  bleach  oils. 

Fullers  earth  or  clay,  1  part,  and  2  parts 
fine  silicious  sand,  first  separately  washed  and 
drained,  then  mixed  together  and  dried,  con- 
stitutes a  filtering  powder  well  adapted  for 
glutinous  oils. 

Granulated  animal  charcoal,  sifted  and 
fanned  free  from  dust,  is  used  to  filter  and 
bleach  syrups  and  vegetable  solutions. 

Carbonate  of  magnesia  and  powdered  glass, 
or  pumice  stone,  aro  used  for  filtering  weak 
alcoholic  solutions  of  essential  oils,  and  in  the 
preparation  of  perfumed  waters.  (See  Nos. 
976,  1029,  10SO,  and  1081.) 

3840.  Self-Feeding  Filter.  It  is  usu- 
ally a  matter  of  more  or  less  importance  in 
filtration,  that  the  filter  should  be  kept  full. 
To  effect  this  requires  unremitting  attention, 
which,  when  the  filtration  occupies  a  consid- 


erable time,  is  at  least  tedious.  By  the  use 
of  a  simple  apparatus,  this  is  avoided,  and 
filtration  will  continue,  without  any  personal 
attention,  until  tho  operation  i;;  complete.  A 
bottle  or  jar,  of  sufficient  capacity  to  contain 
the  liquid  to  bo  filtered,  ia  placed  in  a  conve- 
nient position,  above  tho  level  of  tho  filter 
(see  illustration);  through  the  cork,  which 
must  fit  air-tirjht,  aro  inserted  two  bent  tubes ; 
one  end  of  tho  tube  &  niuct  reach  nearly  to 
the  bottom  of  tho  jar,  the  other  end  descend- 
ing deep  into  tho  filter;  tho  tube  a  terminates 
at  one  end  ju<;t  below  tho  cork  of  tho  jar,  the 
outer  cud  being  adjusted  in  tho  filter  at  the 
height  which  it  i.3  desired  that  tho  liquid  shall 
be  kept  at  in  tho  filter.  Tho  apparatus  is  set 
in  working  order  by  racking  tho  liquid  into 
the  tube  6,  so  as  to  £".1  it.  Tho  liquid  will 
continue  to  flow  until  it.3  surface  in  tho  filter 
rises  sufficiently  to  reach  to  and  close  tho  end 
of  the  tube  a,  cutting  off'  tho  ingress  of  air 
into  the  bottle,  and  thus  stopping  the  farther 
flow,  until,  by  tho  falling  of  tho  filtrate  into 
the  vessel  placed  to  receive  it,  tho  liquid  in 


the  filter  again  sinks  below  the  tube  a,  and 
allows  the  flow  to  be  resumed  until  again, 
stopped  as  before.  (See  No.  17,  Fig.  G.) 

3841.  Chemical  Washing.    When  pre- 
cipitation takes  place,  the  deposit  requires  to 
undergo  edulcoration,  or  cleansing  from  tho 
liquid  from  which  it  was  precipitated.    "With 
heavy  and  bulky  precipitates,  this  is  dono  by 
repeated  washing,  and,  after  the  deposit  has 
again  settled,  dccautation  of  tho  supernatant 
liquid  (see  No.  3847);  but  when  the  powder 
is  light,  and  separates  with  less  facility  from 
tho  liquid,  tho  washing  is  better  performed  by 
a  continuous  stream  of  water  passing  through 
a  filter  on  which  tho  precipitate  has  been  pre- 
viously collected.     The  apparatus  employed 
for  a  self-feeding  filter  (see  No.  3840)  is  ad- 
mirably adapted  for  this  purpose.    Lixiviation, 
or  the  separation  of  soluble  matter  from  an 
insoluble  powder,  can  bo  performed  in  the 
same  way.    (See  Nos.  14,  23,  and  32.) 

3842.  Chemical  Drying.     In  order  to 
deprive  chemical  substances  of  water  or  moist- 
ure, tho  simplest  means  is  evaporation.     This 
may  be  performed  either  by  merely  exposure 
in  open  shallow  vessels  to  the  natural  action  of 
a  dry  atmosphere,  called  spontaneous  evapora- 
tion; or  by  tho  application  of  heat,  either  di- 
rectly or  by  a  water-bath,  &c.  (see  No.  1£) ; 
this  is  not  always  advisable  or  necessary,  as 
some  substances  undergo  change  by  heat,  and 
must  be  dried  by  other  means.    By  enclosing 
the  substance  to  bo  dried  in  a  box  or  drying- 
chamber  in  which  is  placed  an  open  vessel 
containing  strong  sulphuric  acid  or  chlorido 
of  calcium,  the  strong  affinity  for  water  that 
these  substances  possess*  keeps  tho  air  per- 
fectly dry,  and  absorbs  the  moisture  from  it  as 
fast  as  the  water  evaporates  from  tho  material 
which  is  being  dried.     The  water  of  crystal- 
line bodies  is  usually  driven  out  by  exposing 
the  crystals  in  a  capsule  or  evaporating  dish 
to  heat,  only  just  sufficient  being  applied  to 
effect  the  purpose.     Some  crystals  part  with 
their  water  of  crystallization  spontaneously 
by  exposure  to  tho  air,  crumbling  into  pow- 
der; such  crystals  aro  called  efflorescent,  to 
distinguish  them  from  those  deliquescent  crys- 
talline bodies  which  spontaneously  liquefy  or 
dissolve  in  their  own  water  of  crystallization. 
Others  will  yield  their  water  in  an  artificially 
dried  atmosphere,   as  above    stated;    while 
many  have  sufficient  affinity  for  water  to  re- 
tain it  until  driven  off  by  heat,  more  or  less 
intense.     Crystalline  substances  which  have 
been  deprived  of  tho  water  of  crystallization, 
that  is,  have  undergone  desiccation,  aro  said 
to  bo  dry. 

3843.  Decarbonization.   This  operation 
is  performed  on  cast  iron,  to  convert  it  into 
steel  or  soft  iron.     Tho  articles  to  bo  decar- 
bonized aro  packed  in  finely-powdered  hema- 
tite, or  native  oxide  of  iron,  to  which  iron 
filings  aro  often  added,  and  exposed  for  some 
time  to  a  strong  red  heat,  by  which  the  excess 
of  carbon  is  abstracted  or  burnt  out.    Tho 
process  somewhat   resembles    annealing    or 
cementation. 

3844.  Decoloration.     Tho  blanching  or 
loss  of  tho  natural  color  of  any  substance. 
Syrups,   and    many    animal,   vegetable,   and 
saline  solutions,  are  decolored  or  whitened  by 
agitation   with   animal  charcoal,  and   subse- 
quent subsidence  or  filtration.    Many  fluids 


ACIDS. 


rapidly  lose  their  natural  color  by  exposure 
to  light,  especially  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun. 
In  this  way,  castor,  nut,  poppy,  and  several 
other  oils  are  whitened.  Fish  oils  are  par- 
tially deodorized  and  decolored  by  filtration 
through  animal  charcoal.  (See  No.  3839.) 
By  the  joint  action  of  light,  air,  and  moisture, 
cottons  and  linens  are  commonly  bleached. 
The  peculiar  way  in  which  light  produces 
this  effect  has  never  been  satisfactorily  ex- 
plained. The  decoloration  of  textile  fabrics 
and  solid  bodies,  generally,  is  called  bleach- 
ing. 

3845.  Defecation.     In   chemistry,  the 
separation  of  a  liquid  from  its  Ices,  dregs,  or 
impurities.      This  is  usually  performed    by 
subsidence  and  decantation,  and  is  commonly 
applied  to  the  purification  of  saline  solutions, 
on  the  large  scale,  in  preference  to  filtration, 
than  which  it  is  both  more  expeditious  and 
inexpensive. 

3846.  Neutralization.     The  admixture 
of  an  alkali  or  base  with  an  acid  in  such  pro- 
portions that  neither  shall  predominate.    A 
neutral  compound  neither  turns  turmeric  pa- 
per brown,  nor  litmus  paper  red.     The 'term 
saturation  is  also  applied  to  complete  neutral- 
ization (see  No.  27) ;  but  saturation  has  two 
distinct  meanings;  chemically,  it  denotes  that 
a  given  alkali  has  been  neutralized  completely 
by  an  acid,  or  vice  versa.    Pharmaceutically, 
it  implies  that  a  given  solvent  is  charged  to 
its  utmost  capacity  with  an  active  ingredient; 
this  point  is,  however,  so  difficult  to  determine, 
that  the  term  is  scarcely  ever  applied  accu- 
rately. 

3847.  Edulcoration.     The  affusion  of 
water  on  any  substance  for  the  purpose  of 
removing  the  portion  soluble  in  that  fluid. 
Edulcoration  is  usually  performed  by  agitating 
or  triturating  the  article  with  water,  and  re- 
moving the  latter  after  subsidence,  by  decan- 
tation or  filtration.    It  is  the  method  com- 
monly adopted  to  purify  precipitates  and  other 
powders  which  are  insoluble  m  water. 

3848.  Rectification.    A  second  distilla- 
tion of  a  fluid,  for  the  purpose  of  rendering  it 
purer.     In  rectifying  alcohol  containing  wa- 
ter, the  distillation  is  conducted  at  a  tempera- 
ture high  enough  to  evaporate  the  alcohol  and 
cause  it  to  distill  over  into  the  receiver,  but 
not  high  enough  to  boil  the  water,  the  greater 
part  of  which,  therefore,  remains  behind  in 
the  body  of  the  still.     It  is  difficult  to  obtain 
an   anhydrous    product  without    employing 
some  agent  having  a  strong  affinity  for  water. 

3849.  Calcination.     The  separation  or 
expulsion,   by  heat,   of   volatile  from   fixed 
matter.     By  this  means  crystalline  salts  arc 
obtained  in  a  dry  or  anhydrous  form,  by  de- 
priving them  of  their  water  of  crystallization ; 
in  this  particular,  the  process  is  similar  to 
desiccation.     (See  No.   12.)     Calcination  is 
also  employed  for  tho  ignition  of  silica,  &c., 
in  order  to  render  it  more  easily  reducible  to 
fragments  or  powder. 

The  operation  of  calcining  is  conducted  on 
tho  small  scale  in  platinum  spoons  or  cruci- 
bles, and  heat  applied  by  tho  flame  of  a  spirit 
lamp,  or  other  appropriate  means.  'When 
large  quantities  of  matter  are  calcined,  metal 
or  earthenware  crucibles  and  tho  heat  of  a 
furnace  are  employed.  Charcoal  is  thus  ob- 
tained from  wood,  bone-black  from  bones,  <fec. 


3850.  Ignition.    The  heating  of  a  sub- 
stance to  redness.    It  is  especially  resorted 
to  for  the  calcination  of  a  substance  at  a 
high  degree  of  heat.     (See  No.  3849.) 

3851.  To  Bend  Glass  Tubes.     Small 
glass  tubes  may  be  bent  over  the  flame  of  a 
spirit  lamp ;  for  larger  tubes,  the  heat  of  a 
blow-pipe    flame    is    necessary.      The    tube 
should  be  heated  to  a  dull  red  about  an  inch 
either  way  beyond  the  point  of  curvature,  by 
revolving  it  in  the  flamo;  as  soon,  as  the  glass 
begins  to  yield,  bend  tho  tube  very  gradually 
until  curved  as  desired.     Stopping'  one  end  of 
tho  tube,  and  blowing  into  the  other  while 
bending  it,  will  prevent  wrinkling  or  collaps- 
ing at  the  point  of  curvature.     It  requires 
some  tact  to  bend  a  tube, with  an  even  curve 
and  without  collapsing  its   sides;    and  it  is 
recommended  by  an  experienced  chemist  to 
use  a  Bunsen  burner,  having  the  extremity 
flattened  out  so  as  to  give  a  short  and  thin, 
but  broad  flame,  something  like  the  flame  of 
an  ordinary  gas  burner.     Tho  tube  is  placed 
in  this  flame  and  turned  around  until  a  good 
heat  is  given  to  the  tube;  it  is  then  withdrawn 
from  the  flame  and  bent,  when  it  does  so  with 
a  perfect  curve  and  no  collapse  on  the  sides  of 
the  tube.     Of  course  this  is  only  intended  for 
the  smaller  tubes,  but  a  tube  of  one-third  of 
an  inch  and  more  can  be  thus  bent  very 
readily. 

3852.  To  Find  the  Dry  Weight  of  a 
Pulp  or  Moist  Precipitate.     Pulps  or  pre- 
cipitates, such  as  the  metallic  colors,  chrome 
yellow,  white  lead,  <fcc.,  are  of  different  con- 
sistence at  the  top  from  what  they  are  at  or 
near  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  in  which  they 
are  contained ;  and  the  actual  weight  of  the 
precipitate  in  the  dry  state  can  therefore  not 
be  arrived  at  by  merely  taking  a  sample  from 
top  or  bottom,  but,  in  most  cases,  only  guessed 
at.    "When,  however,  the  specific  gravity  of 
such  a  precipitate  in  its  dry  state  is  known,  as 
well  as  that  of  the  surrounding  liquid,  the 
operation    of    obtaining    the     accurate     dry 
weight  of  the  same  while  in  pulp  can  be  re- 
duced to  the  simple  manipulation  of  weighing 
it  in  a  vessel.    Find  the  weight  of  a  vessel 
full  of  the  pulp ;  then  weigh  the  same  vessel 
full  of  tho  same  liquid  that  tho  pulp  is  moist- 
ened with,  aud  note  down  the  difference  be- 
tween the  weights.     Next  divide  this  differ- 
ence of  weight  by  the  difference  between  the 
specific  gravities  of  the  pulp  and  the  liquid  ; 
lastly  add  this  quotient  to  the  difference  of 
weight  already  noted  down,  and  the  sum  will 
be  the  dry  weight  of  tho  pulp. 


An  acid  in  chemistry  is  any 
electro-negative  compound,  capable  of 
combining  in  definite  proportions  with  bases 
to  form  salts.  Most  of  the  liquid  acids  pos- 
sess a  sour  taste,  and  redden  litmus  paper. 
Tho  acids  have  been  variously  classed  by  dif- 
ferent writers,  as  into  organic  and  inorganic  ; 
metallic  and  non-metallic;  oxygen  acids,  hy- 
drogen acids,  and  acids  destitute  of  cither  of 
these  elements;  the  names  being  applied  ac- 
cording to  tho  kingdom  of  nature,  or  class  of 
bodies  to  which  the  radical  belonged,  or  after 
tho  clement  which  was  presumed  to  be  the 


A  CTDS. 


359 


acidifying  principle.  Acids  are  in  various  j 
forms ;  some  are  gaseous,  as  carbonic  acid ; ! 
some  are  liquid,  as  nitric  and  acetic  acid; 
others  are  solid,  as  citric  and  oxalic  acid ; 
others  again  under  peculiar  conditions  assume 
more  than  one  of  these  forms.  Acids,  which 
are  soluble  or  liquid,  are  corrosive,  and  more 
or  less  poisonous  when  concentrated.  They 
change  vegetable  blues  to  red  and  neutralize 
the  effects  of  alkalies  on  vegetable  blues  and 
yellows.  Most  of  the  acids  are  soluble  in 
water  in  all  proportions ;  they  neutralize  the 
alkalies,  effervesce  with  the  carbonates,  and 
combine  with  the  bases  generally,  forming 
compounds  called  salts.  The  methods  for  es- 
timating the  strength  or  neutralizing  power 
of  acids,  as  well  as  the  strength  of  their  so- 
lutions, will  be  found  under  ACIDIMETRY,  No. 
78.  The  names  of  the  acids  end  either  in 
-icor  -ous;  the  former  being  given  to  that  con- 
taining the  larger  portion  of  the  electro-nega- 
tive element,  or  oxygen,  and  the  latter  to 
that  containing  the  smaller  quantity. '  As 
sulphuric  acid,  an  acid  of  sulphur,  containing 
3  atoms  of  oxygen;  sulphurous  acid,  another 
sulphur  acid,  containing  only  2  atoms  of  oxy- 
gen. "When  a  base  forms  more  than  2  acid 
compounds  with  oxygen,  the  Greek  preposi- 
tion hypo  is  added  to  that  containing  the 
smaller  portion,  as  hyposulphuric  and  hypo- 
sulphurous  acids.  The  prepositions  per,  hyper, 
and  the  syllable  ox;/  are  also  prefixed  to  the 
names  of  acids  when  it  is  intended  to  denote 
an  increase  of  oxygen,  as  hypernitrous  acid, 
perchloric  acid,  oxymuriatic  acid,  <fec.  The 
prefix  hydro  to  the  name  of  an  acid  denotes 
that  the  acid  combination  is  with  hydrogen, 
and  not  with  oxygen.  All  tho  strong  liquid 
acids  should  be  kept  in  glass  bottles,  furnished 
with  perfectly  tight  ground-glass  stoppers; 
glass  vessels  should  be  used  in  measuring 
them,  and  they  should  be  dispensed  in  stop- 
pered vials.  Fluoric  acid  must  be  kept  in  a 
bottle  made  of  lead,  silver,  platinum,  or  pure 
gutta-percha,  as  it  acts  readily  on  glass.  In 
the  combination  of  acids  with  bases  to  form 
salts,  distinctive  terminations  are  employed  to 
denote  the  kind  of  acid  present.  The  name 
of  a  salt  of  an  acid  ending  in  -ic,  terminates  in 
-ate  ;  thus,  sulphate  of  soda,  formed  from  sul- 
phuric acid  and  soda.  The  name  of  a  salt  of 
an  acid  ending  in  -oit-s,  terminates  in  -ite  ;  as 
sulphite  of  lime,  formed  from  sulphurous  acid 
and  lime.  The  names  of  compounds  formed 
by  the  union  of  non-metallic  elements,  and 
certain  other  bodies,  with  the  metals  or  with 
each  other,  terminate  in  -ide  or  -urct ;  thus, 
sulphide  or  sulphuret  of  silver,  formed  of  sil- 
ver aud  sulphur.  (Cooley.)  In  accordance 
with  the  scope  of  this  work  it  has  been  found 
advisable  to  omit  a  number  of  acids,  both 
simple  aud  compound,  of  limited  practical 
use  ;  the  selection  being  confined  to  acids  of 
more  general  utility  and  adaptation  to  practi- 
cal purposes. 

3854.  Sulphuric  Acid.  This  is  a  color- 
less, odorless  acid,  and  highly  corrosive 
liquid,  formed  by  the  union  of  1  equivalent  of 
sulphur  and  3  of  oxygen.  It  is  immediately 
colored  by  contact  with  organic  matter.  It 
attracts  water  so  rapidly  from  the  atmosphere, 
when  freely  exposed  to  it,  as  to  absorb  j 
its  weight  in  24  hours;  and,  under  continued 
exposure,  will  absorb  6  times  its  weight. 


When  4  parts  water  arc  suddenly  mixed  with 

1  part  sulphuric  acid,  the  temperature  of  the 
mixture  rises  to  about  300°  Fahr.    Whilst  4 
parts  pounded  ice  mixed  with   1   part  acid, 
sinks  the  thermometer  to  some  degrees  below- 
zero.     Sulphuric  acid  boils  and  distills  over  at 
620°  Fahr.,  and  freezes  at  about  20°  below 
zero.      The  salts   formed    by  the    union*  of 
sulphuric  acid  with  a  base  are  called  SUL- 
PHATES. 

3855.  To   Obtain   Commercial   Sul- 
phuric Acid.     This  is  commonly  called  oil 
of  vitriol,  aud  has  a  specific  gravity  not  less 
than  1.840,  nor  more  than  1.845.     It  was  first 
obtained  by  the  distillation  of  green  vitriol 
(sulphate  of  iron),  but  it  is  now  made  by  bring- 
ing tho  fumes  of  sulphurous  acid  (see  No. 
3865)  into  contact  with  those  evolved  from  a 
mixture  of  nitre  and  oil  of  vitriol,  so  that  the 
former  becomes  oxidized  at  the  expense  of  the 
latter.     This  process  is  conducted  in  a  series 
of  leaden  chambers,  having  a  little  water  on 
the  floor,  to  absorb  the  acid,  and  so  arranged 
as  to  prevent  the  loss  of  gas.     As  soon  as  the 
water  is  found  to  have  acquired  a  specific 
gravity  of  1.350  to  1.450,  it  is  drawn  off,  and 
concentrated  (see  No.  8)  in  leaden  boilers  to 
a  density  of  1.G59  to  1.700;  after  which  it  ia 
further  concentrated  in  green  glass  or  platinum 
retorts  until  the  specific  gravity  reaches  1.842 
to  1.844.    "When  cold,  the  clear  acid  is  put 
into  carboys  (large  globular  bottles  of  green 
glass)  packed  securely  with  straw  in  strong 
wooden  cases,  the  neck  being  left  exposed 
for  convenience  in  obtaining  the  acid  without 
unpacking. 

3856.  Anhydrous    Sulphuric    Acid. 
Anhydrous  or  dry  sulphuric  acid  is  obtai-ned 
by  heating  ISTordhausen  acid  (see  No.  3858)  in 
a  glass  retort  connected  with  a  well-cooled 
receiver. 

It  is  also  prepared  in  the  following  manner: 

2  parts  strongest  oil  of  vitriol  are  gradually 
added  to  3  parts  anhydrous  phosphoric  acid, 
contained  in  retort  surrounded  by  a  freezing 
mixture ;    when  the  compound  has  become 
brown,  the  retort  is  removed  from  the  freezing 
bath  and  connected  with  a  receiver  which 
takes  its  place  in  the  freezing  mixture;    a 
gentle  heat  is   applied  to  the  retort,  when 
white  vapors  pass  over  and  condense  in  the 
receiver  under  the  form   of   beautiful  silky 
crystals.     The  product  equals  in  weight  that 
of  the  phosphorus  originally  employed.     The 
addition  of  a  few  drops  of  water  to  these 
crystals    produces    a    dangerous    explosion. 
They  deliquesce  rapidly  and  fuino  in  the  air ; 
introduced  into  water,  they  hiss  like  red-hot 
iron.     They  melt  at  66°  Fahr.,  and  boil  at 
about  1050°,  and  do  not  redden  dry  litmus 
paper. 

3857.  Dilute  Sulphuric  Acid.     The 
officinal  strength  of  this   acid,  according  to 
the  IT.  S.  Pharmacopeia,  is  thus  obtained : 
Take    2    troy    ounces    sulphuric  acid ;    add 
gradually  to  it  14  fluid  ounces  distilled  water; 
filter  through  paper,  and  pass  sufficient  dis- 
tilled water  through  tho  filter  to  make  the 
diluted  acid  measure  1  pint.    The  specific 
gravity  of  this  mixture  is  1.082.     The  officinal 
strength    of   the    British    Pharmacopoeia   is 
somewhat  greater;   sufficient  distilled  water 
is  added  to  1350  grains  sulphuric  acid,  so  that, 
after  it  has  been  shaken  and  cooled  down  to 


360 


ACIDS. 


The 


60°  Fahr.,  it  measures  1  imperial  pint, 
specific  gravity  of  this  is  1.094. 

3858.  Nordhausen  Sulphuric  Acid. 
This  is  also  known  as  fuming  sulphuric  acid. 
It  is  a  brown,  oily  liquid,  which  fumes  in  the 
air,  is  intensely  corrosive,  and  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  about  1.900,  and  is  chiefly  used  for 
dissolving  indigo.     It  is  prepared  by  distilling 
calcined  sulphate  of  iron  (green  vitriol)  in  an 
earthen  retort. 

3859.  Table  Showing  the  Percentage 
of  Liquid  and  Dry  Sulphuric  Acid  in 
Dilute  Acid  at  Different  Densities. 


Liquid. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Dry. 

Liquid. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Dry. 

100 

1.8485 

81.54 

50 

1.3884 

40.77 

99 

1.8475 

80.72 

49 

1.3788 

39.95 

98 

1.8460 

79.90 

48 

1.3697 

39.14 

97 

1.8439 

79.09 

47 

1.3612 

38.32 

96 

1.8410 

78.28 

46 

1.3530 

37.51 

95 

1.8376 

77.46 

45 

1.3440 

36.69 

94 

1.8336 

76.65 

44 

1.3345 

35.88 

93 

1.8290 

75.83 

43 

1.3255 

35.06 

92 

1.8233 

75.02 

42 

1.3165 

34.25 

91 

1.8179 

74.20 

41 

1.3080 

33.43 

90 

1.8115 

73.39 

40 

1.2999 

32.61 

89 

1.8043 

72.57 

39 

1.2913 

31.80 

88 

1.7962 

71.75 

38 

1.2826 

30.98 

87 

1.7870 

70.94 

37 

1.2740 

30.17 

86 

1.7774 

70.12 

36 

1.2654 

29.35 

85 

1.7G73 

69.31 

35 

1.2572 

28.54 

84 

1.7570 

68.49 

34 

1.2490 

27.72 

83 

1.7465 

67.68 

33 

1.2409 

26.91 

82 

1.7360 

66.86 

32 

1.2334 

26.09 

81 

1.7245 

66.05 

31 

1.22GO 

25.28 

80 

1.7120 

G5.23 

•  30 

1.2184 

24.46 

79 

1.6993 

64.42 

29 

1.2108 

23.65 

78 

1.G870 

63.GO 

28 

1.2032 

22.83 

77 

1.6750 

62.78 

27 

1.1956 

22.01 

76 

1.6630 

61.97 

26 

1.1876 

21.20 

75 

1.6520 

61.15 

25 

1.1792 

20.38 

74 

1.6415 

G0.34 

24 

1.1706 

19.57 

73 

1.6321 

59.52 

23 

1.1G26 

18.75 

72 

1.G204 

58.71 

22 

1.1549 

17.94 

71 

1.6090 

57.89 

21 

1.1480 

17.12 

70 

1.5975 

57.08 

20 

1.1410 

16.31 

69 

1.5868 

5G.2G 

19 

1.1330 

15.49 

68 

1.5760 

55.45 

18 

1.1246 

14.68 

67 

1.5648 

54.63 

17 

1.11G5 

13.86 

66 

1.5503 

53.82 

16 

1.1090 

13.05 

65 

1.5390 

53.00 

15 

1.1019 

12.23 

64 

1.5280 

52.18 

14 

1.0953 

11.60 

63 

1.5170 

51.37 

13 

1.0887 

10.41 

62 

1.5066 

50.55 

12 

1.0809 

9.78 

61 

1.49GO 

49.74 

11 

1.0743 

8.97 

60 

1.48GO 

48.92 

10 

1.0682 

8.15 

59 

1.4760 

48.11 

9 

1.0614 

7.34 

58 

1.4G60 

47.29 

8 

1.0544 

G.52 

57 

1.4560 

46.48 

7 

1.0477 

5.71 

56 

1.44GO 

45.66 

6 

1.0405 

4.89 

55 

1.4360 

44.85 

5 

1.0336 

4.08 

54 

1.4265 

44.03 

4 

1.0268 

3.2G 

53 

1.4170 

43.22 

3 

1.0206 

2.44G 

52 

1.4073 

42.40 

2 

1.0140 

1.63 

51 

1.3977 

41,58 

1 

1.0074 

0.8154 

3860.  To  Purify  Oil  of  Vitriol.  Com- 
mercial sulphuric  acid  frequently  contains 
nitrous  acid,  arsenic,  and  saline  matter. 
These  impurities  must  be  removed  iu  order  to 
obtain  the  acid  in  any  high  degree  of  purity. 

Nitrous  acid  is  removed  by  adding  about 
li  grains  sugar  to  each  fluid  ounce  of  the 


sulphuric  acid,  heated  to  neariy  its  boiling 
point,  and  continuing  the  heat  until  the  dark 
color  at  first  produced  disappears,  when  it 
should  bo  distilled.  Another  method  is  by 
adding  £  to  i  of  1  per  cent,  of  sulphate  of 
ammonia  to  the  acid,  and  heating  to  ebullition 
for  a  few  minutes.  In  this  way  tho  most 
impure  acid  may  be  rendered  absolutely  free 
from  nitric  acid  and  nitrous  oxide. 

Arsenic  can  be  got  rid  of  by  adding  a  littlo 
sulphuret  of  barium,  or  of  copper  foil,  to  the 
acid,  agitating  the  mixture  well,  and,  after 
repose,  decanting  or  distilling  it. 

Saline  matter  may  be  removed  by  simply 
redistilling  (rectification.)  The  distillation 
is  best  conducted  on  the  small  scale,  in  a 
glass  retort  containing  a  few  platinum  chips, 
heated  by  a  sand-bath  or  gas  flame,  rejecting 
the  first  $  fluid  ounce  that  comes  over. 

3861.  Test  for  Nitric  Acid  in    Sul- 
phuric Acid.      Place  iu  a  -watch  glass  a 
small  portion  pure  and  concentrated  sulphuric 
acid  at  a  density  of  1.84;  then  pour,  drop  by 
drop,  half  the  quantity  of  a  solution  of  sulphate 
of  aniline,  prepared    by  mixing  commercial 
aniline  with  diluted  sulphuric  acid.     A  glass 
rod  is  dipped  in  the  liquid  to  bo  tested,  and 
then  stirred  in  the  contents  of  the  watch 
glass ;   from  time  to  time  the  experimenter 
should  blow  slowly  on  the  agitated  liquid; 
if  the  liquid  thus  stirred  contains  traces  of 
nitric  acid,  circular  lines  of  a  deep  red  are 
soon  visible,  coloring  the  whole  liquid  to  a 
pink.     On  adding  a  very  small   quantity  of 
nitric  acid  to  the  mixture,  the  liquid  becomes 
of  a  carmine  color ;    the  addition  of  a  single 
drop  of  very  dilute  nitric   acid  renders  the 
liquid  a  deep  red,  and  afterwards  a  dead  red. 

3862.  To  Remove  Nitric  Acid  from 
Sulphuric    Acid.      Diluted  sulphuric  acid 
may  be   deprived   of  any  small   quantity  of 
nitric  acid  it  may  contain,  by  shaking  it  up 
for  a  few  minutes   with   a  little   powdered 
(freshly  burned)    charcoal,    and    afterwards 
filtering  it.     This  will  not  answer  for  concen- 
trated sulphuric  acid ;  nitric  acid  is  separated 
from  it  with  great  difficulty,  and  only  by  very 
protracted  methods. 

3863.  To  Decolorize  Sulphuric  Acid. 
Acid  which  has  become  brown  by  exposure 
may  be  decolorized  by  heating  it  gently ;  the 
carbon  of  the  organic  substances  is  thus  con- 
verted into  carbonic  acid. 

3864.  Sulphurous  Acid.     This  acid  is 
used  to  bleach  silks,  woolens,   <tc.,  (see  No. 
171G),  and  to  remove  vegetable   stains   and 
iron-moulds  from  linen.     For  these  purposes 
it  is   prepared  from   sawdust,  or  any   other 
refuse  carbonaceous  matter.     The  salts  formed 
by  tho  combination  of  sulphurous  acid  with  a 
base  are  called  SULPHITES.     (See  Nos.  1717 
and  1718.) 

3865.  To   Obtain  Sulphurous  Acid. 
In  the  gaseous  form  this  acid  is  freely  evolved 
by  burning  sulphur  in  air  or  in  dry  oxygen. 
It  is  also   given  off  during  the  digestion  of 
metals  in  hot  sulphuric  acid.     "When  charcoal, 
wood,  or  cork  chips,  or  sawdust  are  digested 
iu  hot  sulphuric  acid,  a  mixture  of  sulphurous 
and  carbonic  acids  is  obtained,  which  is  used 
for  bleaching  and  cleansing  purposes. 

3866.  Pure     Gaseous     Sulphurous 
Acid.     This  is  evolved  during  the  action  of 
sulphuric    acid  on  mercury  or  clippings  of 


ACIDS. 


copper.     It  is  also  obtained  pure  by 
in  a  glass  retort,  a  mixture  of  100  parts  black 
oxide  of  manganese,  and  12  or  14  parts  sul- 
phur.   The  gas  evolved  should  be  collected  in 
a  receiver  over  mercury. 

3867.  Sulphurous  Acid  Solution. 
The  gas  obtained  according  to  the  last  method 
is  to  be  passed  through  water,  which  is  capa- 
disi- 


ble  of  dissolving  or  absorbing  30  times  its 
bulk  of  the  gas.  To  avoid  waste  in  preparing 
the  solution,  the  xtnabsorbed  gas  which  es- 
capes from  the  water  is  usually  again  passed 
through  water,  and  the  same  arrangement  re- 
peated through  a  series  of  vessels  of  water  so 
long  as  any  gas  escapes  undissolved. 

3868.  Pure    Sulphurous    Acid.      In 
order  to  prepare  sulphurous   acid  from  sul- 
phuric acid  aud  charcoal,  it  is  better  to  em- 
ploy an  acid  of  .74  per  cent.,  or  1.825  specific 
gravity.     If  we  take  a  stronger  acid,  a  part  of 
it  is  entirely  deoxidized  to  sulphur,  and  if 
weaker  acid  be  employed,  sulphuretted  hy- 
drogen is  evolved.     To  obtain  absolutely  pure 
sulphurous  acid,  it  is  well  to  put  sulphite  of 
lead  and  coarse  charcoal  in  the  wash  bottle. 
With  these  precautions,  it  is  possible  to  ob- 
tain   pure    sulphurous    acid  from  sulphuric 
acid  and  charcoal. 

3869.  Pure  Liquid  Sulphurous  Acid. 
This  can  only  be  obtained  bypassing  the  pure 
dry  gas  through  a  glass  tube  surrounded  by  a 
powerful     freezing    mixture.      The    specific 
gravity   of  the  pure  liquid  gas  is  1.45;    its 
boiling  point  is  14°  Fahr.,  and  causes  intense 
cold  by  its  evaporation. 

3870.  Hydrosulphuric  Acid,  also 
Called  Sulphuretted  Hydrogen.  When 
sulphur  acts  upon  paraffino  at  a  temperature  a 
little  above  the  melting  point  of  sulphur,  hy- 
drosulphuric  acid  gas  is  evolved  in  large 
quantities,  and  this  method  may  be  advan- 
tageously used  for  its  generation  in  the  la- 
boratory. A  flask,  holding  about  a  pound  of 
the  material,  is  fitted  with  a  tube  bent  at 
right  angles,  about  \  inch  bore  and  12  to  18 
inches  long,  containing  cotton  wool,  and  to 
this  is  attached  the  small  tube  for  precipita- 
tion. The  production  of  gas  may  be  stopped 
by  removing  the  heat.  Heavy  parafBne  oil, 
stearic  acid,  or  suet,  may  be  used  as  a  substi- 
tute for  parafSne. 

3871.  Nitro-Sulphuric  Acid.   Dissolve 

1  part  nitre  in  9  parts  sulphuric  acid.     This  is 
used  to  separate  the  silver  from  the  copper 
and    solder  of  old   plated   goods.     At  about 
200°   Fahr.    it  readily   dissolves   silver,    but 
scarcely  acts  on  copper,  lead,  or  tin,  unless 
diluted,  or  assisted  by  a  much  higher  tempera- 
ture. 

3872.  Nitric  Acid.    There  are  five  com- 
pounds of  nitrogen  and  oxygen.     The  union 
of  1  equivalent  of  nitrogen  with  1  of  oxygen 
produces  nitrous  oxide,  or  laughing  gas;  with 

2  oxygen,  nitric   oxide;  with  3   oxygen,  ni- 
trous acid;  with  4  oxygen,  hyponitric  acid; 
and  with  5  equivalents  of  oxygen,  nitric  acid. 
Pure  liquid  nitric  acid  is  colorless,  highly  cor- 
rosive, and  possesses  powerful  acid  properties. 
It  is  employed  in  assaying,  to  dye  silk  and 
woolens  yellow,  and  to  form  various  salts.   In 
medicine,  it  is  used  as  a  caustic,  &c.    The 
officinal  strength  of  nitric  acid  of  the  U.  S. 
and    British    pharmacopoeias    has  a  specific 
gravity  of   1.42,   and    boils    at   250°    Fahr. 


heating  Nitric  acid  of  less  density  than  1.42  parts 
with  water  and  becomes  stronger  at  lower 
temperatures;  but  acid  of  higher  specific 
gravity  is  weakened  by  exposure  to  heat.  It 
freezes  when  exposed  to  extreme  cold.  It 
rapidly  oxidizes  the  metals,  and  unites  with 
them  and  the  other  bases,  forming  salts 
called  NITRATES.  Two  strengths  of  this  acid 
occur  in  the  arts,  known  as  double  and  sin- 
gle aqua-fortis.  Double  aqua-fortis  has  usually 
a  specific  gravity  of  1.36,  and  single,  or  ordin- 


ary aqua-fortis  (.29,  Both  are  frequently  sold 
at  lower  strengths.  This  can  easily  be  ascer- 
tained by  acidimetry.  (See  No.  78.) 

3873.  To  Obtain  Nitric  Acid.    The 
usual  method  adopted  for  obtaining  this  acid 
is  to  add  to  nitrate  of  potassa  in  coarse  pow- 
der, contained  in    a  glass  retort,   an  equal 
weight    of  strong  sulphuric  acid,  poured  in 
through  a  funnel,  so  as  not  to  wet  the  neck  of 
the  retort.    The  materials  should  not  exceed 
two-thirds  of  the  capacity  of  the  retort.    A 
moderate  heat  is  at  first  applied,  increasing  as 
the  materials  begin  to  thicken.     Red  vapors 
will  at  first  arise  and  pass  over  into  the  re- 
ceiver; these  will  disappear  in  the  course  of 
the  distillation,  but    subsequently  renewed, 
showing  that  the  process  is  completed.    The 
pale  yellow  acid  thus  obtained  may  be  ren- 
dered colorless,  if  desired,  by  heating  it  gently 
in  a  retort. 

3874.  To  Purify  Nitric   Acid.    The 
nitric  acid  of  commerce  frequently  contains 
chlorine,  muriatic  and  sulphuric  acids,  and 
sometimes  iodine,  from  which  it  may  be  puri- 
fied by  the  addition  of  a  little  nitrate  of  sil- 
ver, as  long  as  it  produces  any  cloudiness,  and, 
after  repose,  decanting  the  clear  acid,  and 
rectifying  it  at  a  heat  under  212°  Fahr.    A 
perfectly  colorless  product  may  be  obtained, 
by  introducing  a  small  portion  of  pure  black 
oxide  of  manganese  into  the  retort.     Nitric 
acid  may  also  be  purified  by  rectification  at  a 
gentle  heat,   rejecting  the    first  liquid   that 
comes  over,  receiving  the  middle  portion  as 
genuine  acid,  and  leaving  a  residuum  in  the 
retort.    Another  method  is  to  agitate  it  with 
a  little  red-lead  before  rectification. 

3875.  Tests  for  Nitric  Acid.     It  stains 
the  skin  yellow.     "When  mixed  with  a  little 
muriatic  acid  or  sal-ammoniac,  it  acquires  the 
power  of  dissolving  gold  leaf.     When  mixed 
with  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  and  poured  on  a 
few  fragments  of  zinc  or  iron  in  a  tube,  the 
evolved  gas  burns  with    a    greenish   white 
flame.     Substitute  alcohol  for  zinc  in  the  last 
test.    Morphia,  brucia,  and  strychnia  give  it 
a  red  color,  which  is  heightened  by  ammonia 
in  excess.     When  placed  in  a  tube,  and  a  so- 
lution of  protosulphate  of  iron  cautiously  add- 
ed, a  dark  color  is  developed  at  the  line  of 
junction,  which  is  distinctly  visible  when  only 
¥Toinr  Part  °f  nitric  acid  is  present.     When 
mixed  with  a  weak  solution  of  sulphate  of  in- 
digo, and  heated,  the  color  is  destroyed. 

3876.  Dilute  Nitric  Acid.     Mix  3  troy 
ounces  nitric  acid  specific  gravity  1.42  in  a 
glass  vessel  with  sufficient  distilled  water  to 
make  the  dilute   acid  measure   1  pint.     The 
specific  gravity  of  officinal  dilute  nitric  acid  is 
1.068,  IT.  S.  Dis. 

3877.  Fuming;  Nitric  Acid.     The  red 
fuming  nitrous  or  nitric  acid  of  commerce  is 
simply  nitric  acid  loaded  with  nitrous  or  hy- 


362 


ACIDS. 


ponitric  acid.  It  may  be  thus  prepared :  Put 
into  an  iron  or  stoneware  pot,  nitre  or  nitrate 
of  soda,  add  rather  more  than  half  its  weight 
of  strong  sulphuric  acid,  and  lute  on  a  stone- 
ware head.  The  vapor  is  conducted  into  a 
series  of  two-necked  stoneware  vessels,  con- 
taining each  &  of  their  capacity  of  water. 
The  acid  is  usually  obtained  of  the  density  of 
about  1.45.  It  is  colored  with  nitrous  acid 
gas,  forming  what  is  commonly,  but  improp- 
erly, termed  nitrous  acid.  By  gently  heating 
the  colored  acid  in  a  retort,  the  nitrous  acid  is 
driven  off,  and  the  acid  remains  nearly 
colorless,  usually  of  the  density  of  1.38  to 
1.42. 

3878.  Tire's  Table  of  Percentage  of 
Nitric  Acid.  This  table  is  useful  for  finding 
the  strength  of  dilute  acids. 


Specific 
Gravity. 

Liq. 
Acid 
in  100. 

Dry  Acid 
in  100. 

Specific 
Gravity. 

Liq. 
Acid 
in  100. 

Dry  Acid 
in  100. 

1.5000 

100 

79.700 

1.2947 

50 

39.850 

1.4980 

99 

78.903 

1.2887 

49 

39.053 

1.4960 

98 

78.106 

1.2826 

48 

38.256 

1.4940 

97 

77.309 

1.2765 

47 

37.459 

1.4910 

96 

76.512 

1.2705 

46 

36.662 

1.4880 

95 

75.715 

1.2644 

45 

35.865 

1.4850 

94 

74.918 

1.2583 

44 

35.068 

1.4820 

93 

74.121 

1.2523 

43 

34.271 

1.4790 

92 

73.324 

1.2462 

42 

33.474 

1.4760 

91 

72.527 

1.2402 

41 

32.677 

1.4730 

90 

71.730 

1.2341 

40 

31.880 

1.4700 

89 

70.933 

1.2277 

39 

31.083 

1.4670 

88 

70.136 

1.2212 

38 

30.286 

1.4640 

87 

69.339 

1.2148 

37 

29.489 

1.4600 

86 

68.542 

1.2084 

36 

28.692 

1.4570 

85 

67.745 

1.2019 

35 

27.895 

1.4530 

84 

66.948 

1.1958 

34 

27.098 

1.4500 

83 

66.155 

1.1895 

33 

26.301 

1.4460 

82 

65.354 

1.1833 

32 

25.504 

1.4424 

81 

64.557 

1.1770 

31 

24.707 

1.4385 

80 

63.760 

1.1709 

30 

23.900 

1.4346 

79 

62.963 

1.1648 

29 

23.113 

1.4306 

78 

62.166 

1.1587 

28 

22.316 

1.4269 

77 

61.369 

1.1526 

27 

21.519 

1.4228 

76 

60.572 

1.1465 

26 

20.722 

1.4189 

75 

59.755 

1.1403 

25 

19.925 

1.4147 

74 

58.978 

1.1345 

24 

19.128 

1.4107 

73 

58.181 

1.1286 

23 

18.331 

1.4065 

72 

57.384 

1.1227 

22 

17.534 

1.4023 

71 

56.587 

1.1168 

21 

16.737 

1.3978 

70 

55.790 

1.1109 

20 

15.940 

1.3945 

69 

54.993 

1.1051 

19 

15.143 

1.3882 

68 

54.196 

1.0993 

18 

14.346 

1.3833 

67 

53.399 

1.0935 

17 

13.549 

1.3783 

66 

52.602 

1.0878 

16 

12.752 

1.3732 

65 

51.805 

1.0821 

15 

11.955 

1.3681 

64 

51.068 

1.0764 

14 

11.158 

1.3630 

63 

50.211 

1.0708 

13 

10.361 

1.3579 

62 

49.414 

1.0651 

12 

9.564 

1.3529 

61 

48.617 

1.0595 

11 

8.767 

1.3477 

60 

47.820 

1.0540 

10 

7.970 

1.3427 

59 

47.023 

1.0485 

9 

7.173 

1.3376 

58 

46.226 

1.0430 

8 

6.376 

1.3323 

57 

45.429 

1.0375 

7 

5.579 

1.3270 

56 

44.632 

1.0320 

6 

4.782 

1.3216 

55 

43.835 

1.0267 

5 

3.985 

1.3163 

54 

43.03B 

1.0212 

4 

3.  188 

1.3110 

53 

42.241 

1.0159 

3 

2.391 

1.3056 

52 

41.444 

1.0106 

2 

1.594 

1.3001 

51 

40.647 

1.0053 

1 

0.797 

3879.   Nitre-Muriatic  Acid.   Aqua 

regia.  This  is  used  in  the  arts,  chiefly  as  a 

solvent  for  gold.  By  the  mutual  action  of 
nitric  and  muriatic  acids  a  compound  of 
chlorine,  nitrogen,  and  oxygen  is  formed. 
The  best  proportions  and  strength  of  the  acids 
are  variously  stated.  Colorless  nitric  acid 
must  be  used.  Elkington  employs  21  parts 
of  nitric  acid,  specific  gravity  1.45;  17  parts 
of  muriatic  acid  1.15  specific  gravity;  and  14 
parts  of  water.  This  dissolves  5  parts  of 
gold.  (See  No.  3588.)  According  to  Cooley 
this  acid  is  prepared  by  mixing  1  part  by 
measure  nitric  acid  and  2  parts  hydrochloric 
acid.  The  mixture  should  be  kept  in  a  bottle 
in  a  cold  and  dark  place.  (See  No.  3193.) 
"With  a  base,  this  compound  acid  forms  a 

NITRO-MURIATE. 

3880.  Dyer's  Aqua-Fortis.     Another 
mixture    of   nitric    and    hydrochloric    acids, 
known  as  Dyer's  aqua-fortis,  is  used  by  dyers, 
as  it  dissolves  tin  without  oxidizing  it.     Mix 
10  pounds  colorless  nitric  acid,  specific  gravity 
1.17,  with  1  pound  hydrochloric  acid  1.19. 

3881.  Dilute   Nitrp-Muriatic    Acid. 
Mix  \\  troy  ounces  nitric  acid,  and  2n  troy 
ounces  muriatic  acid  in  a  pint  bottle.     Shake 
occasionally  during  24  hours,  and  add  dis- 
tilled water  to  make  up  to  1  pint.     Keep  in  a 
cool  place,  protected  from  the  light.     (  U.  S. 
Ph. ) 

3882.  Muriatic  or  Hydrochloric  Acid. 
Pure  muriatic  acid  is  a  colorless  invisible  gas, 
having  a  pungent  odor  and  an  acid  taste,  and 
fuming  on  coming  into  contact  with  air.    It  is 
irrespirable  and  uninflammable.    Its  specific 
gravity  is  1.2695.     Under  a  pressure  of  40 
atmospheres  it  is  liquid.     "Water  at  40°  Pahr. 
absorbs  480  times  its  volume  of  this  gas,  and 
acquires  the   specific   gravity    1.2109.      One 
cubic  inch  of  water  at  69°  Fahr.  absorbs  418 
cubic  inches,  and  the  specific  gravity  becomes 
1.1958.     The  aqueous  solution  of  the  gas  con- 
stitutes the  liquid  form  of   the   acid.     The 
combinations  of  muriatic  acid  with  a  base  are 

MURIATES,  or  IIYDROCHLORATES. 

3883.  To  Obtain  Muriatic  Acid.     The 

acid  solution  in  water  is  thus  obtained :  In- 
troduce 48  ounces  (avoirdupois)  dried  chloride 
of  sodium  into  a  fia.sk  capable  of  containing 
an  imperial  gallon.  Pour  44  fluid  ounces  sul- 
phuric acid  slowly  into  32  fluid  ounces  water; 
and,  when  cool,  add  the  mixture  to  the  chlor- 
ide of  sodium  in  the  flask.  Connect  the  flask, 
by  corks  and  a  glass  tube,  with  a  three-necked 
wash-bottle,  furnished  with  a  safety  tube,  and 
containing  4  ounces  water.  Apply  heat  to 
the  flask,  conduct  the  disengaged  gas  through 
the  wash-bottle,  and  thence,  by  means  of  a 
glass  tube,  into  another  bottle  containing  £0 
fluid  ounces  distilled  water,  the  end  of  the 
tube  dipping  about  4  inch  below  the  surface. 
Continue  the  process  until  the  product  mea- 
sures 66  fluid  ounces,  or'  till  the  liquid  has 
acquired  a  specific  gravity  of  1.16.  The  bot- 
tle must  be  kept  cool  during  the  process. 

The  muriatic  acid  of  commerce  is  now 
chiefly  obtained  from  the  manufacturers  of  car- 
bonate of  soda,  who  procure  it  as  a  secondary 
product.  "When,  however,  it  is  directly  pre- 
pared from  sea-salt,  an  iron  or  stoneware 
boiler,  set  in  brickwork  over  an  open  fire, 
furnished  with  a  stoneware  head,  and  con- 
nected with  a  series  of  capacious  double- 
necked  stoneware  bottles,  usually  constitutes 
the  distillatory  and  condensing  apparatus. 


ACIDS. 


363 


3884.  Gregory's  Method  of  Obtain- 
ing Pure  Muriatic  Acid.  Put  into  a  ma- 
trass 6  parts,  by  weight,  of  purified  salt,  and 
10  ounces  oil  of  vitriol  previously  diluted 
with  4  of  water,  and  cooled.  Fix  in  the  ma- 
trass a  tube  twice  bent  at  right  angles  and 
having  a  bulb  blown  on  the  descending  limb. 
Into  a  bottle  surrounded  with  ice  and  water 
introduce  distilled  water  equal  in  weight  to 
the  salt  employed,  and  let  the  bent  tube  dip-J- 
of  an  inch  into  the  water.  Apply  a  gentle 
heat  of  a  sand-bath  to  the  matrass  as  long  as 
In  about  2  hours  the  opera- 


acid  conies  over. 
3886. 


tion  will  be  finished.  The  water  is  increased 
§•  in  bulk,  and  converted  into  hydrochloric 
acid  of  1.14  or  1.15  specific  gravity.  To  pro- 
cure it  of  1.21  specific  gravity,  employ  part 
of  this  acid  during  the  first  half  of  a  similar 
operation,  and  it  will  be  speedily  saturated. 
Phillips  says  a  perfectly  colorless  acid  may  be 
obtained  from  the  commercial  sulphuric  acid 
and  common  salt. 

3885.  Dilute  Muriatic  Acid.  Mix  4 
troy  ounces  muriatic  acid  with  sufficient  dis- 
tilled water  to  make  a  pint.  The  specific  grav- 
ity of  the  diluted  acid  is  1.038.  ( U.  S.  Ph.) 


Ure's  Table  of  Percentage  of  Chlorine  and  Muriatic  Acid  Gas  in  Liquid 
Muriatic  Acid. 


Acid 
of  1.20 
in  100. 

Specific 
Gravity. 

Chlorine 

Muriatic 
Gas. 

j  Acid 
of  1.20 
in  100. 

Specific 
Gravity. 

Chlorine 

Muriatic 
Gas. 

Acid 
of  1.20 
in  100. 

Specific 
Gravity. 

Chlorine 

Muriatic 
Gas. 

100 

1.2000 

39.675 

40.777 

66 

1.1328 

26.186 

26.913 

32 

1.0637 

12.697 

13.049 

99 

1.1982 

39.278 

40.369 

65 

1.1308 

25.789 

26.505 

31 

1.0617 

12.300 

12.641 

98 

1.1964 

38.882 

39.961 

64 

1.1287 

25.392 

26.098 

30 

1.0597 

11.903 

12.233 

97 

1.1946 

38.485 

39.554 

63 

1.1267 

24.996 

25.690 

29 

1.0577 

11.506 

11.825 

98 

1.1928 

38.089 

39.146 

62 

1.1247 

24.599 

25.282 

28 

1.0557 

11.109 

11.418 

95 

1.1910 

37.692 

38.738 

61 

1.1226 

24.202 

24.874 

27 

1.0537 

10.712 

11.010 

94 

1.1893 

37.296 

38.330 

60 

1.1206 

23.805 

24.466 

26 

1.0517 

10.316 

10.602 

93 

1.1875 

36.900 

37.923 

59 

1.1185 

23.408 

24.058 

25 

1.0497 

9.919 

10.194 

92 

1.1857 

36.503 

37.516 

58 

1.1164 

23.012 

23.650 

24 

1.0477 

9.522 

9.786 

91 

1.1846 

36.107 

37.108 

57 

1.1143 

22.615 

23.242 

23 

1.0457 

9.126 

9.379 

90 

1.1822 

35.707 

36.700 

56 

1.1123 

22.218 

22.834 

22 

1.0437 

8.729 

8.971 

89 

1.1802 

35.310 

36.292 

55 

1.1102 

21.822 

22.426 

21 

1.0417 

8.332 

8.563 

88 

1.1782 

34.913 

35.884 

54 

1.1082 

21.425 

22.019 

20 

1.0397 

7.935 

8.155 

87 

1.1762 

34.517 

35.476 

53 

1.10G1 

21.028 

21.611 

19 

1.0377 

7.538 

7.747 

86 

1.1741 

34.121 

35.068 

52 

1.1041 

20.632 

21.203 

18 

1.0357 

7.141 

7.340 

85 

1.1721 

33.724 

34.660 

51 

1.1020 

20.235 

20.796 

17 

1.0337 

6.745 

6.932 

84 

1.1701 

33.328 

34.252 

50 

1.1000 

19.837 

20.388 

16 

1.0318 

6.348 

6.524 

83 

1.1681 

32.931 

33.845 

49 

1.0980 

19.440 

19.980 

15 

1.0298 

5.951 

6.116 

82 

1.1661 

32.535 

33.437 

48 

1.0960 

19.044 

19.572 

14 

1.0279 

5.554 

5.709 

81 

1.1641 

32.136 

33.029 

47 

1.0939 

18.647 

19.165 

13 

1.0259 

5.158 

5.301 

80 

1.1620 

31.746 

32.621 

46 

1.0919 

18.250 

18.757 

12 

1.0239 

4.762 

4.893 

79 

1.1599 

31.343 

32.213 

45 

1.0899 

17.854 

18.349 

11 

1.0220 

4.365 

4.486 

78 

1.1578 

30.946 

31.805 

44 

1.0879 

17.457 

17.941 

10 

1.0200 

3.968 

4.078 

77 

1.1557 

30.550 

31.398 

43 

1.0859 

17.060 

17.534 

9 

1.0180 

3.571 

3.670 

76 

1.1536 

30.153 

30.990 

42 

1.0838 

16.664 

17.126 

8 

1.0160 

3.174 

3.262 

75 

1.1515 

29.755 

30.582 

41 

1.0818 

16.267 

16.718 

7 

1.0140 

2.778 

2.854 

74 

1.1494 

29.361 

30.174 

40 

1.0798 

15.870 

16.310 

6 

1.0120 

2.381 

2.447 

73 

1.1473 

28.964 

29.767 

39 

1.0778 

15.474 

15.902 

5 

1.0100 

1.984 

2.039 

72 

1.1452 

28.567 

29.359 

38 

1-0758 

15.077 

15.494 

4 

1.0080 

1.588 

1.631 

71 

1.1431 

28.171 

28.951 

37 

1.0738 

14.680 

15.087 

3 

1.0060 

1.191 

1.224 

70 

1.1410 

27.772 

28.544 

36 

1.0718 

14.284 

14.679 

2 

1.0040 

0.795 

0.816 

69 

1.1389 

27.376 

28.136 

35 

1.0397 

13.887 

14.271 

1 

1.0020 

0.397 

0.408 

63  1.1369 

26.979 

27.728 

34 

1.0677 

13.490 

13.863 

67  1.1349 

26.583 

27.321 

33 

1.0657 

13.094 

13.456 

3837.  Tests  for  Muriatic  Acid.  When 
a  glass  rod,  dipped  in  liquor  of  ammonia,  is 
held  near  it,  it  gives  off  white  fumes.  "With 
nitrate  of  silver  it  gives  a  white,  cloudy  preci- 
pitate, insoluble  in  nitric  acid,  freely  soluble 
m  liquor  of  ammonia,  and  blackened  by  ex- 
posure to  the  light. 

3888.  To  Purify  Muriatic  Acid. 
Commercial  muriatic  acid  may  be  purified  by 
diluting  it  with  an  equal  weight  of  water, 
gently  heating  it  in  a  retort,  and  receiving  the 
evolved  gas  into  a  fresh  quantity  of  pure  wa- 
ter. Iodine  and  arsenic  may  be  removed  by 
agitating  it  for  a  few  minutes  with  some  small 
pieces  of  bright  copper  foil  previously  to  recti- 
fication. 

3889.  Acetic  Acid.  This  is  the  well- 
known  acid  principle  of  vinegar.  It  is  one  of 
the  common  products  of  fermentation,  of  the 
oxygenation  of  alcohol,  and  of  the  destructive 


distillation  of  wood  and  other  vegetable  mat- 
ter. The  officinal  strength  of  acetic  acid 
adopted  by  the  tJ.  S.  Pharmacopeia  has  a 
specific  gravity  of  1.047.  Special  methods 
for  testing  the  strength  of  acetic  acid  are  given 
under  Acetimetry,  No  69.  "With  bases  this 
acid  forms  ACETATES. 

Commercial  acetic  acid  is  principally  manu- 
factured on  the  Large  scale  from  acetate  of 
soda,  which  yields  a  sufficiently  strong  and 
pure  acid  for  commercial  purposes,  without 
the  trouble  of  rectification.  In  this  process, 
shallow  copper  vessels  formed  without  rivets 
or  solder  in  those  parts  exposed  to  the  action 
of  the  acid,  are  employed  for  the  purpose  of 
the  distillation.  A  coil  of  drawn  copper  pipe, 
heated  by  steam,  having  a  pressure  of  30  to 
35  pounds  to  the  inch,  traverses  the  bottom  of 
the  apparatus.  The  refrigeratory  consists  of 
well  cooled  earthenware  vessels,  and  the 


364 


ACIDS, 


adopter  or  pipe  connecting  the  still  -with  the  {  of  sulphuric  acid  and  water,  and,  -when  cold 
receivers  is  also  of  the  same  materials.     Stills  pour  it  on  the  acetate  and  sulphate,  previously 


of  earthenware  are  also  frequently  employed, 
and  even  worms  and  condensers  of  silver  are 
sometimes  used.  The  crystalline  acetate  of 
soda  is  placed  in  the  still,  and  35  to  36  parts 
of  strong  oil  of  vitriol  are  added  to  every  100 
parts  or  the  acetate  of  soda,  and  the  whole 
stirred  together  with  a  wooden  spatula.  The 
head  of  the  still  is  then  luted  on  and  the  dis- 
tillation commenced.  This  produces  an  acid 
of  a  specific  gravity  of  about  1.050,  and,  after 
being  agitated  with  a  little  animal  charcoal, 
and  passed  through  a  prepared  muslin  filter, 
is  ready  for  sale.  Some  manufacturers  add  a 
little  acetic  ether  to  it.  By  this  process  4 
pounds  of  acetic  acid  of  the  strength  above 
mentioned  is  obtained  for  every  3  pounds  of 
the  acetate  of  soda  employed.  (See  No. 
1741.) 

3890.  Dilute  Acetic  Acid.  The  TJ.  S. 
Pharmacopoeia  directs  1  pint  acetic  acid  to  be 
mixed  with  7  pints  distilled  water,  producing 
an  acid  of  specific  gravity  1.00(5 ;  100  grains  of 
dilute  acetic  acid  saturate  7.6  grains  bicarbon- 


ate of  potassa. 
3891.      To 


Obtain   Pure    Glacial    or 


Hydrated  Acetic  Acid.  Place  30  parts 
dry  and  finely  powdered  pure  acetate  of  soda 
in  a  capacious  retort,  and  pour  on  it  97  parts 
pure  sulphuric  acid.  The  heat  developed  by 
the  action  of  the  ingredients  will  cause  one- 
eighth  of  the  acetic  acid  to  pass  over.  The 
retort  may  then  be  placed  in  a  sand  bath  until 
the  contents  become  quite  liquid.  The  pro- 
duct, carefully  rectified,  yields  2  parts  of  pure 
acid  containing  only  20  per  cent,  of  water. 
By  exposing  the  latter  portion,  which  comes 
over  in  a  closed  vessel,  to  a  temperature  below 
40°  Fahr.,  crystals  of  hydrated  (glacial)  acetic 
acid  will  be  deposited.  The  liquid  portion 
being  then  poured  off,  the  crystals  are  again 
melted  and  re-crystallized  by  cooling.  These 
last  crystals,  separated  from  the  liquid,  are 
perfectly  pure. 

3892.  To  Obtain  Glacial  or  Hydrated 
Acetic  Acid  Without  Distillation.    The 
acid  may  also  be  obtained  without  resorting  to 
distillation,  thus:  Place  100  parts  powdered 
acetate  of  soda  (pure  commercial)  in  a  hard- 
glazed  stoneware  or  glass  pan ;  pour  35  or  36 
parts  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  gradually 
into  the  pan,  so  that  the  acid  may  flow  under 
the  powder,  and  as  little  heat  as  possible  be 
generated  by  the  operation.    In  furtherance  of 
this  necessary  end,  the  process  is  best  conduct- 
ed in  a  cool  apartment,  and  the  pan  kept 
well  cooled.     The  whole  must  now  be  covered 
and  allowed  to  stand  for  some  hours,  when 
crystalline  grains  of  sulphate  of  soda  will  be 
found  covering  the  inside  of  the  vessel,  and 
hydrated  acetic  acid,  partly  liquid  and  partly 
in  crystals,  in  the  upper  portion.     The  tem- 
perature must  then  be  raised  just  sufficiently 
to  liquefy  the  crystals  of  acetic  acid,  the  fluid 
poured  off,  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  pure 
acetate    of  lime    added    gradually/  until    it 
yields  no  trace  of  sulphuric  acid  on  evap- 
oration.   After  repose  it  may  be  decanted  for 
use. 

3893.  To  Obtain  Pure  Acetic  Acid. 
Triturate  together  10  parts  crystallized  neutral 
acetate  of  lead,  and  3  parts  effloresced  (dry) 
sulphate  of  soda;  mix  together  2i  parts  each 


placed  in  a  retort;  then  distill  to  dryness  in 
a  sand  bath.  The  acid  that  comes  over  in 
the  distillation  by  this  process  is  very  pure,  and 
may  be  used  as'  a  test  acid  for  chemical  an- 
alyses. 

3894.  To  Obtain  Anhydrous  Acetic 
Acid.  This  is  acetic  acid  free  from  water, 
as  it  exists  in  dry  acetates.  Mix,  in  a  gla^s 
retort,  well-fused  acetate  of  potassa  with  half 
its  weight  of  chloride  of  benzoyle ;  apply  a 
gentle  heat,  collect  the  liquid  that  distills 
over,  and  rectify  it  carefully.  Hot  water  add- 
ed to  this  resolves  it  into  hydrated  or  glacial 
acetic  acid. 

3895.  Camphorated  Acetic  Acid. 
Pulverize  1  ounce  camphor  in  1  fluid  drachm 
rectified  spirit,  and  dissolve  in  10  fluid  ounces 
strong  acetic  acid.  This  is  fragrant  and  re- 
freshing, and  used  as  an  embrocation  in  rheu- 
matism and  neuralgia,  and  as  a  fumigation  in 
fever,  <fcc. 

3896.  To  Obtain  Strong  Acetic  Acid 
from  Vinegar.     Expose  the  vinegar  to  the 
action  of  a  freezing  mixture,  or  place  in  the 
air  in  very  cold  weather ;  the  water  separates 
and  becomes  ice,  and  the  strong  acid  remain- 
ing fluid  may  be  drained  from  it.     (See  No. 
1749.) 

3897.  Mohr's  Table  of  the   Specific 
Gravity   of    Acetic    Acid    at    Various 
strengths.     The  following  table,  drawn  up 
by  M.  Mohr,  exhibits  the  specific  gravity  of 
acetic  acid  of  almost  every  strength. 


Per  cent, 
of  Glacial 
Acid. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Per  cent, 
of  Glacial 
Acid. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Per  cent, 
of  Glacial 
Acid. 

Sp.  Gr. 

100 

1.0635 

67 

1.069 

34 

1.045 

99 

1.0635 

66 

1.069 

33 

1.044 

98 

1.067 

65 

1.068 

32 

1.0424 

97 

1.0680 

64 

1.068 

31 

1.041 

96 

1.009 

63 

1.068 

30 

1.040 

95 

1.070 

62 

1.067 

29 

1.039 

94 

1.0706 

61 

1.067 

28 

1.038 

93 

1.0708 

CO 

1.067 

27 

1.036 

92 

1.0716 

59 

1.066 

26 

1.035 

91 

1.0721 

58 

1.086 

25 

1.034 

90 

1.0730 

57 

1.065 

24 

1.033 

89 

1.0730 

56 

1.064 

23 

1.032 

88 

1.0730 

55 

1.064 

22 

1.031 

87 

1.0730 

54 

1.033 

21 

1.029 

86 

1.0730 

53 

1.063 

20 

1027 

85 

1.0730 

52 

1.062 

19 

1.026 

84 

1.0730 

51 

1.061 

18 

1.025 

83 

1.0730 

50 

1.060 

17 

1.024 

82 

1.0730 

49 

1.059 

16 

1.023 

81 

1.0732 

48 

1.058 

15 

1.022 

80 

1.0735 

47 

1.056 

14 

1.020 

79 

1.0732 

46 

1.055 

13 

1.018 

78 

1.0732 

45 

1.055 

12 

1.017 

77 

1.073 

44 

1.054 

11 

1.016 

76 

1.072 

43 

1.053 

10 

1.015 

75 

1.072 

42 

1.052 

9 

1.013 

74 

1.072 

41 

1.0515 

8 

1.012 

73 

1.071 

40 

1.0513 

7 

1.010 

72 

1.071 

39 

1.050 

6 

1.C08 

71 

1.071 

38 

1.049 

5 

1.C067 

70 

1.070 

37 

1.048 

4 

1.C065 

69 

1.070 

36 

1.047 

3 

1.C04 

68 

1.070 

35 

1.046 

2 

1.002 

1 

1.001 

ACIDS. 


365 


3898.  To  Concentrate  Acetic  Acid. 

Acid  containing  20  per  cent,  of  water  may  be 
deprived  of  a  good  deal  of  its  superfluous 
water  by  standing  over  dry  sulphate  of  soda. 
It  may  then  be  used  either  with  or  without 
distillation.  Acetic  acid  of  ordinary  strength 
may  be  concentrated  to  any  degree  of  rectifi- 
cation once  or  oftener  from  dry  acetate  of  po- 
tassa  or  soda,  rejecting  the  first  and  last  por- 
tions that  come  over.  The  same  acetate  may 
be  used  repeatedly.  The  heat  em  ployed  must 
not  exceed  500-  to  570°  Fahr.  Pure  hydrated 
acetic  acid  liquefies  above  62°  Fahr.;  at  50°  to 
55°  it  crystallizes  in  brilliant,  colorless,  trans- 
parent needles  and  plates;  at  40°  it  is  a  crys- 
talline solid.  Free  acetic  acid  reddens  litmus 
paper,  and  may  bo  recognized  by  its  odor  and 
volatility. 

3899.  Tests  for  the  Purity  of  Acetic 
Acid.     By  heat  it  escapes  entirely  in  vapor. 
Either  nitrate  of  silver  or  chloride  of  barium 
being  added  to  it,  will  produce  uo  precipitate. 
"When  a  thin  plate  of  silver  is  digested  in  it, 
and  hydrochloric  acid  subsequently  dropped 
in,  no  precipitate  is  formed.     Its  color  is  un- 
changed by  the  addition  of  hydrosulphuric 
acid,  or  ammonia,  or  by  ferrocyanido  of  potas- 
sium added  after  the  ammonia.     Tho  presence 
of  sulphuric  acid  is  indicated  by  a  white  pre- 
cipitate being  formed  on  the  addition  of  a  lit- 
tle peroxide  of  lead. 

3900.  Oxalic  Acid.     This  consists   of 
colorless  crystals,  possessing  considerable  vol- 
atility, and  a  strong,  sour  taste;  when  ex- 
posed to  a  very  dry  atmosphere  they  effloresce 
slightly.     Oxalic  acid  sublimes  at  180°  Fahr., 
and  melts  at  280° ;  is  soluble  in  about  nine 
times  its  weight  of  cold,  and  in  its  own  weight 
of  boiling  water;  soluble  also,  but  in  a  less 
degree,  in  alcohol.     It  has  a  strong  affinity 
for  lime,  and  is  therefore  a  good  test  for  its 
presence,  by  yielding  a  precipitate  insoluble 
in  excess  of  the  acid.     With  the  bases,  oxalic 
acid  forms  OXALATES. 

3901.  To    Obtain  Oxalic  Acid.    Lie- 
big  proposes :    Nitric  acid   (specific  gravity 
1.42),   5   parts;   water,   10  parts;    mix,   add 
sugar,  or  preferably  potato  starch,  1  part,  and 
digest  by  a  gentle  heat  as  long  as  gaseous 
products  are  evolved  ;  evaporate  and  crystal- 
lize, dry  the  crystals,  redissolvo  in  the  small- 
est possible   quantity  of  boiling  water,   and 
crystallize;  12  parts    of  potato   starch   yield 
5  of  acid.     The  mother  water,   treated  with 
more   nitric    acid,   and    again   warmed,   will 
yield   a  second  crop   of   crystals ;    and    this 
should    be   repeated   till  the   solution  is   ex- 
hausted. 

Schlesiuger  gives  the  following  method : 
Sugar  4  parts  (dried  at  257°  Fahr.);  nitric 
acid  (specific  gravity  1.38)  33  parts;  the  mix- 
ture, as  soon  as  the  evolution  of  gas  ceases,  is 
to  be  boiled  down  to  one-sixth  its  original 
volume,  and  allowed  to  crystallize.  The 
whole  process  may  be  executed  in  2  hours, 
and  yields  of  beautifully  crystallized  oxalic 
acid  from  56  to  60  per  cent,  of  the  sugar  em- 
ployed. 

On  the  large  scale,  the  first  part  of  the  pro- 
cess is  usually  conducted  in  salt-glazed  stone- 
ware pipkins,  about  two-thirds  filled  and  set 
in  a  water-bath ;  but  on  the  small  scale  a 
glass  retort  or  capsule  may  be  used.  The 
evaporation  should  be  preferably  conducted 


by  steam.  The  evolved  nitrous  vapors  are 
usually  allowed  to  escape,  but  if  conveyed 
into  a  chamber  filled  with  cold  damp  air,  and 
containing  a  little  water,  they  will  absorb 
oxygen,  and  be  recondensed  into  fuming 
nitric  acid.  In  England  an  equivalent  pro- 
portion of  molasses  is  usually  substituted  for 
sugar.  Another  process  consists  in  first  con- 
verting potato  fecula  into  grape  sugar  with 
sulphuric  acid,  and  then  decomposing  tho 
sugar  thus  obtained  by  nitric  acid,  in  tho 
usual  way.  Dr.  Ure  recommends  the  use  of 
a  little  sulphuric  acid  along  with  the  nitrio 
acid,  which,  he  says,  contributes  to  increase 
the  product;  15  pounds  of  sugar  yielding 
fully  17  pounds  of  crystallized  oxalic  acid. 

3902.  Dale's  Process  for  Obtaining 
Oxalic  Acid.    At  present  much  of  the  oxalic 
acid  of  commerce  is  obtained  by  heating  saw- 
dust with  a  mixture  of  2  parts  caustic  soda 
with  1  part  caustic  potassa.  A  watery  solution 
of  the  mixed  alkalies  is  evaporated  to  specific 
gravity  1.35,   and  then  mixed  with  sawdust 
to  a  paste.    This  is  heated  on  iron  plates  to 
400°  Fahr.,  and  kept  at  that  temperature  for  1 
or  2  hours,  with  constant  stilling ;  the  heat  is 
continued  until  the  mass  is  quite  dry,  but  not 
charred.    It  now  contains  28  to  30  per  cent, 
of  oxalic  acid  combined  with  the  alkalies.    By 
washing  the  powder  on  a  filter  with  a  solution 
of  carbonate  of  soda,  all  traces  of  potassa  are 
washed  out.     Tho  oxalate  of  soda  is  convert- 
ed, by  heated   milk  of  lime,  into   oxalate  of 
lime,   and  the  resulting  oxalate  of  lime  is 
treated  with  sulphuric  acid,  leaving  a  solu- 
tion of  oxalic  acid  ready  to  be  evaporated  into 
crystals.      Two  pounds  of  sawdust  yield  1 
pound  oxalic  acid. 

3903.  Chemically  Pure  Oxalic  Acid. 
Chemically  pure  oxalic  acid  is  best  prepared 
by  precipitating  a  solution  of  binoxalate  of 
potash  with  acetate  of  lead,  washing  tho  pre- 
cipitate with  water,  and  decomposing  it,  while 
still  moist,  with  dilute  sulphuric  acid  or  sul- 
phuretted hydrogen.      Filter  and  evaporate 
gently,  so  that  crystals  may  form  as  it  cools. 

3904.  To    Distinguish    Oxalic  Acid 
from  Epsom  Salts.     Oxalic  acid  has  occa- 
sionally been  mistaken  for  Epsom  salts,  with 
fatal  results.   They  may  be  easily  distinguish- 
ed.    Epsom  salts  taste  extremely  bitter  and 
nauseous;  oxalic  acid  tastes  extremely  sour. 
It  is  pafer  to  taste  a  weak  solution  in  apply- 
ing this  test.    Epsoni  salts,  dissolved  in  water 
and  mixed  with  carbonate  of  soda,  or  carbo- 
nate of  potash,  turn  milky,  and,  after  a  time,  a 
white  sediment  subsides;  oxalic  acid,  mixed 
with  carbonate  of  soda  or  carbonate  of  potash, 
effervesces,  and  the  liquid,  in  a  few  seconds, 
becomes  transparent. 

3905.  Gallic  Acid.     When  pure,  gallic 
acid  forms  small,  feathery,  and  nearly  color- 
less crystals,  which  have    a  beautiful  silky 
lustre.     Commercial  gallic  acid  has  usually  a 
palo  yellow  color,  soluble  in  both  water  and 
alcohol.     Its  aqueous  solution  decomposes  by 
exposure  to  the  air.     It  blackens  the  salts  of 
iron.     Dissolved  in  hot  oil  of  vitriol,  it  forms 
a  deep,  rich,  red  solution,  which,  when  thrown 
into  water,  drops  the  gallic  acid,  deprived  of 
some  of  its  water.     Gallic  acid  forms  GAL- 
LATES  with  the  bases. 

3906.  To  Obtain  Gallic  Acid.    Mix  36 
troy  ounces  nut-gall,  in  fine  powder,  with  suf- 


366 


ACIDS. 


ficient  distilled  water  to  make  a  thin  paste ; 
expose  the  mixture  to  the  air  in  a  shallow 
glass  or  porcelain  vessel,  in  a  warm  place,  for 
a  month,  occasionally  stirring  with  a  glass 
rod,  and  adding  sufficient  distilled  water  to 
preserve  the  original  consistence.  Then  press 
out  the  water,  boil  the  residue  in  8  pints  dis- 
tilled water  for  a  few  minutes,  and  filter  while 
hot  through  purified  animal  charcoal.  (See 
No.  1752).  Set  aside  to  crystallize,  and  dry 
the  crystals  on  bibulous  paper.  If  not  suffi- 
ciently free  from  color,  dissolve  the  crystals 
in  boiling  distilled  water,  filter  through  a 
fresh  portion  of  the  charcoal,  and  crystallize 
again.  (U.  S.  Ph.) 

3907.  To  Obtain  Gallic  Acid  from 
Tannin.     Add  a  strong  aqueous  solution  of 
tanuio  acid  (tannin)  to  sulphuric  acid,  as  long 
as  a  precipitate  falls;    collect  the    powder, 
wash,  and  dissolve  it  by  the  aid  of  heat  in 
diluted  sulphuric  acid;  boil  for  a  few  min- 
utes, cool,  and  collect  the  crystals  of  gallic 
acid  which  will  form  in  considerable  quantity. 

3908.  To    Distinguish    Gallic   Acid 
from  Tannic  Acid.     Gallic  acid  does  not 
affect  solutions  of  gelatine,  the  protosalts  of 
iron,  or. the  salts  of  the  alkaloids;  but  it  pro- 
duces a  black  precipitate  with  the  sesquisalts 
of  iron,  which  disappears  when  the  liquid  is 
heated. 

3909.  Pyrogallic  Acid.     This  acid,  is 
formed  in  white,  shining  scales,  inodorous, 
very  bitter;  soluble  in  water,  alcohol,   and 
ether ;  fusible  at  239°  Fahr.,  and  subliming  at 
410°.    When  quite  pure,  it  has  no  action  on 
litmus  paper.      It  is  used  in  photography. 
A  solution  of  the  crude  acid  mixed  with  a 
little  alcohol  imparts  a  fine  brown  color  to 
the  hair,  but  stains  the  skin  also. 

3910.  To   Obtain   Pyrogallic   Acid. 
It  may  be  prepared  by  heating  gallic  acid 
(previously  dried  at   212°  Fahr.)  in  a  glass 
retort,  by  means  of  a  chloride  of  zinc  bath,  to 
410°,  when  the  pure  acid  sublimes,  and  forms 
in  crystals  on  the  neck  of  the  retort,  and  in 
the    receiver,    which    should    be    kept   well 
cooled. 

3911.  Tannic  Acid?  also  called  Tannin. 
Pure  tannic  acid  is  solid,  uncrystallizable, 
white,  or  slightly  yellow ;  strongly  astringent, 
but  without  bitterness ;  very  soluble  in  wa- 
ter, less  so  in  alcohol  and  ether,  and  insoluble 
in  fixed  or  volatile  oils.    Its  solution  reddens 
litmus.     "With  the  bases  tannic  acid  forms 

TANNATES. 

Among  the  incoinpatibles  of  tannin  are  the 
alkaloids  of  opium,  and  it  is  altogether  una- 
voidable that  if  solutions  of  them  are  brought 
together,  a  precipitate  will  form  of  tannates  ; 
also,  if  the  preparation  of  opium  contain 
siffron,  as  in  acetum  opii  and  Sydeuham's 
laudanum,  this  will  cause  a  further  precipita- 
tion of  the  extractive  of  saflfron.  (See  No. 
3908.) 

3912.  To  Obtain  Tannic  Acid.     Ex- 
pose nut-gall  in  fine  powder  to  a  damp  atmo- 
sphere for  24  hours,  then  mix  it  with  suffi- 
cient ether,  previously  washed  with  water,  to 
form  a  soft  paste.     Set  this  aside,   closely 
covered,  for  G  hours ;  then  envelope  it  quickly 
in  a  close  canvas  cloth,  and  obtain  the  liquid 
portion  by  pressing  powerfully  between  tinned 
plates.     Reduce  the  resulting  cake  to  powder, 
mix  it  with  sufficient  ethe-  shaken  with  -rV 


its  bulk  of  water,  to  form  again  a  soft  paste, 
and  express  as  before.  Mix  the  liquids,  and 
evaporate  spontaneously  to  a  syrupy  consist- 
ence; then  spread  it  on  glass  or  tinned 
plates,  and  dry  quickly  in  a  drying  closet. 
Put  the  dry  residue  in  a  well-stopped  bottle. 

3913.  Carbonic  Acid.     An  acid  com- 
pound, formed  by  the  union  of  carbon  with 
oxygen,   sometimes  called   choke-damp.      A 
colorless  gas  possessing  a  pungent  odor  and 
acidulous  taste,  rapidly  absorbed  by  water, 
forming  liquid  carbonic  acid.     The  agreeable 
pungency  of  ale,  beer,  porter,  wine,  &c.,  is  in 
a  great  measure  owing  to  the  presence  of 
carbonic  acid,  which  they  lose  on  exposure  to 
the  air,   and    then    become  fiat  and    stale. 
Spring  and  well  water  contain  carbonic  acid, 
and  water  that  has  been  boiled  has  an  insipid 
taste,  from  its  absence.     Under  a  pressure  of 
36    atmospheres    at    32°    Fahr.   it    becomes 
fluid,  and  on  the  pressure  being  removed, 
congeal?-,  from  the  cold  produced  by  its  rapid 
evaporation.     It  has  been  estimated  that  the 
temperature  falls  to  180°  in  this  experiment. 
Carbonic  acid  gas  is  destructive  to  life,  and 
extinguishes  combustion.  An  atmosphere  con- 
taining more  than  its  natural  quantity  (about 
•nj\nj),  is  unfit  for  respiration.    The  air  of  wells, 
cellars,  brewers'  vats,  &c.,  is  frequently  con- 
taminated with  this  gas  (choke-damp) ;  hence 
the  necessity  of  the  old  plan  of  letting  down 
a  burning  candle  before  venturing  in.     If  the 
candle  will  not  burn,  man  cannot  breathe 
there.    "With  the  bases,  this  acid  forms  CAR- 
BONATES. 

3914.  To    Obtain    Carbonic    Aoid. 
Dilute  muriatic  acid  with  4  limes  its  weight 
of  water,  then  pour  it  upon  fragments  of 
marble,  previously  placed  in  a  tubulated  re- 
tort.     Carbonic    acid    gas    will    be    rapidly 
evolved,  and  may  either  be  collected  in  the 
mercurial  pneumatic  trough,    or   applied   to 
immediate  use.     "When  wanted  perfectly  dry, 
it  must  be  passed  over  dried  chloride  of  cal- 
cium, or  through  concentrated  oil  of  vitriol. 
This  is  the  most  convenient  way  of  procuring 
the  gas  on  the  small  scale,  or  in  the  labora- 
tory.    Or:  Dilute  oil  of  vitriol  with  3  or  4 
times  its  weight  of  water,  then  pour  it  on 
whiting  placed  in  a  suitable  vessel,  and  apply 
agitation.     This  is  the  plan  adopted  on  the 
large  scale  by  the  soda  water  makers.     (See 
No.  718.) 

3915.  Tests  for  Carbonic   Acid.    It 
reddens  litmus  paper,  extinguishes  the  flame 
of  a  burning  taper,  and  forms  a  white  pre- 
cipitate in  aqueous    solutions   of   lime    and 
baryta,  which  is  soluble  in  acetic  acid.     By 
the  last  test,  a  very  small  quantity  of  this 
gas  may  be  easily  detected  in  the  atmosphere 
of  rooms,  <fec. 

3916.  Carbolic  Acid,  also  called 
Phenol,  Phonic  acid,  and  hydrate  of  Plicnyle. 
It  consists  of  long,  colorless  prismatic  crys- 
tals, which  melt  at  about  90°  Fahr.  into  an 
oily  liquid  resembling  creosote.  The  ciystals 
deliquesce  in  moist  air,  forming  a  sort  of 
hydrate,  which  boils  at  370°  and  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  1.0G5.  Heated  with  ammonia,  it 
yields  aniline  and  water ;  and  nitric  acid  con- 
verts it  into  picric  acid.  Commercial  creosote 
consists  principally  of  hydrated  carbolic  acid, 
but  is  easily  distinguishable  from  it,  as  carbolic 
acid  coagulates  collodion,  creosote  does  not. 


A  CIDS. 


367 


It  has  come  into  prominent  notice  as  an  effi- 
cient disinfectant. 

3917.  To  Obtain  Carbolic  Acid.  This 
is  obtained  from  that  portion  of  coal-tar 
which  distills  over  between  300°  and  400° 
Fahr.;  this,  when  mixed  with  a  hot  concen- 
trated solution  of  hydrate  of  potassa,  is  re- 
solved, on  the  addition  of  water,  into  a  light 
oil  and  a  heavier  alkaline  liquid.  By  separat- 
ing the  latter,  and  neutralizing  it  with 
muriatic  acid,  impure  carbolic  acid  will  float 
on  tbe  surface  in  the  form  of  a  light  oil.  If 
this  be  distilled  from  dried  chloride  of  cal- 
cium to  separate  the  water,  and  the  distillate 
be  exposed  to  a  low  temperature,  carbolic 
acid  congeals  in  a  colorless  deliquescent  crys- 
talline mass,  which  may  be  separated  from 
the  liquid  by  pressure  in  bibulous  paper.  At 
95°  Fahr.  the  crystals  melt  and  constitute  the 
liquid  carbolic  acid.  The  introduction  of  a 
crystal  of  carbolic  acid  into  the  acid  to  be 
congealed,  greatly  facilitates  its  crystalliza- 


tion. 
3918. 


Tests  for  the  Purity  of  Carbolic 


Acid.  If  it  becomes  browu  under  the  in- 
fluence of  light  and  air  it  is  impure. 

Put  1  fluid  drachm  of  the  liquid  acid  in  a 
bottle  with  ^  pint  warm  water,  and  shake  oc- 
casionally for  half  an  hour;  the  amount  of 
oily  residue  will  indicate  the  measure  of  adul- 
teration. 

Mix  1  part  caustic  soda  with  10  parts  of  the 
acid,  and  shake  them  well  together.  Any 
uudissolved  residue  is  impurity. 

3919.  To  Remove  the  Odor  from  Car- 
bolic Acid.  It  may  be  interesting  to  know 
of  a  method  which  will  entirely  remove  this 
odor,  substituting  for  it  a  delicate  trace  of 
gerauium  leaves,  which  may,  perhaps,  be  im- 
proved upon  by  adding  a  few  drops  of  that 
oil.  The  process,  as  recently  published  by 
Professor  Church,  consists  in  pouring  1  pound 
of  the  best  carbolic  acid  of  commerce  (the 
white  crystallized)  into  2  gallons  cold  distilled 
water,  taking  care  not  to  permit  the  whole  of 
the  acid  to  enter  into  solution.  "With  a  good 
sample,  if,  after  shaking  repeatedly  at  inter- 
vals, between  2  and  3  ounces  of  the  acid  re- 
main at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  used,  this 
will  be  a  sufficient  residue  to  hold  and  contain 
all  the  impurities ;  with  bad  samples,  less  wa- 
ter must  be  used,  and  more  acid.  The  watery 
solution  is  to  be  syphoned  off,  and  filtered,  if 
necessary,  through  fine  filtering  paper,  till 
perfectly  clear.  It  is  then  placed  in  a  tall 
cylinder,  and  pure  powdered  common  salt 
added,  with  constant  agitation,  till  it  no  longer 
dissolves.  On  standing  for  a  time,  the  greater 
part  of  the  carbolic  acid  will  be  found  floating 
as  a  yellow  oily  layer  on  the  top  of  the  saline 
liquor,  and  merely  requires  to  be  removed  to 
be  ready  for  use.  As  it  contains  5  per  cent, 
or  more  of  water,  it  does  not  generally  crys- 
tallize, but  it  may  be  made  to  do  so  by  distill- 
ing it  from  a  little  lime.  The  portion  col- 
lected has,  at  ordinary  temperatures,  and  up 
t.)  333°  Fahr.,  scarcely  any  odor  save  a  faint 
one  resembling  that  of  geranium  leaves.  The 
additio'.i  of  about  4  drops  per  fluid  ounce  of 
the  French  oil  of  geranium  will  still  further 
mask  the  slight  odor  of  the  acid,  and  has  an 


additional  advantage 
crystallized  product. 


of  liquefying  the  pure 
The  pure  acid  may  be 


a  gargle,  or  in  25  parts  of  water  for  painting 
the  throat,  or  in  50  parts  for  the  carbolic 
spray.  By  this  process  it  becomes  sufficiently 
deodorized  for  toilet  purposes. 

3920.  Phosphoric  Acid.     This  acid,  in 
its  pure  or  anhydrous  state,  can  only  be  ob- 
tained by  the  direct  combination  of  its  ele- 
ments, phosphorus  and  oxygen,  1  equivalent 
of  phosphorus  combining  with  5  of  oxygen. 
It  consists  of  a  white,  flaky,  extremely  deli- 
quescent powder,    which,   when    fused    and 
cooled,  assumes  a  vitreous  appearance.     It  is 
capable  of  assuming  three  separate  conditions 
in  combination  with  water  as  a  base;   the 
union  of  1  equivalent  of  anhydrous  acid  with 
1  equivalent  of  water  produces  monobasic  or 
glacial  phosphoric  acid,  called  also  metaphos- 
phoric  acid ;  1  equivalent  of  anhydrous  acid, 
with  2  of  water,  gives  bibasic  or  pyrophos- 
plioric  acid;  1  of  anhydrous  acid  with  3  of 
water  forms    tribasic,   or  commercial  phos- 
phoric acid.     This  last  is  the  common  form  of 
the  acid.     These  three  forms  of  the  acid  are 
not  pure  phosphoric  acid  in  different  degrees 
of  dilution,  as  they  have  distinguishing  char- 
acteristics.    Monobasic  phosphoric  acid  coa- 
gulates albumen,  and  gives  white  gelatinous 
uncrystallizable  precipitates  with  the  soluble 
salts  of  baryta,  lime,  and  silver;  the  bibasic 
does  not  coagulate  albumen,  and  makes,  when 
neutralized  only,   a  white    precipitate   with 
nitrate  of  silver ;  the  tribasic  does  not  affect 
albumen,  and,  when  neutralized,  throws  down 
a  yellow  precipitate  (phosphate  of  silver)  from 
nitrate  of  silver.     Tribasic  phosphoric  acid 
is  the  usual  form   under  which  phosphoric 
acid  combines  with  the  bases  to  form  PHOS- 
PHATES. 

3921.  To  Obtain  Phosphoric    Acid. 
This  is  obtained  by  heating  nitric  acid  in  a 
tubulated  retort  connected  with  a  receiver; 
small  fragments  of  phosphorus  are  dropped 
into  the  acid,  singly  and  at  intervals.    As 
soon  as  the  phosphorus  is  dissolved,  the  heat 
is  increased,  and  the  undecomposed  acid  dis- 
tilled off.     The  residuum  is  then  evaporated 
to  a  syrupy  consistence,  and  forms  the  phos- 
phoric  acid  of  commerce. 

3922.  To  Obtain  Hydrated  or  Glacial 
Phosphoric    Acid.     Phosphoric  acid    (see 
last  receipt)  is  gradually  heated  to  redness  in 
a  platinum  crucible,  and  the  glacial  acid  ob- 
tained   by    evaporation.     Solid   hydrated  or 
glacial  phosphoric  acid  contains  89  per  cent. 

It  is 
sub- 
stance, very  soluble  in  water,  yielding  a  solu- 
tion exhibiting  powerful  acid  properties.  Its 
concentrated  solution  has  nearly  the  samo 
properties  as  the  solid  acid ;  its  dilute  solution 
is  not  poisonous,  and  does  not  precipitate 
albumen.  (Coolcy.) 

3923.  Anhydrous  Phosphoric  Acid. 
This  is  evolved  by  burning  phosphorus  in  a 
stream  of  dry  air,  or  under  a  bell-jar,  copious- 
ly supplied  with  dry  air.     The  product  is 
anhydrous  phosphoric  acid  in  snow-like  flakes. 
These  must  be  collected  immediately,  and  put 
into  a  warm,  dry,  well-stoppered  bottle.    A 
few  seconds'  exposure  to  the  air  causes  the 
anhydrous  acid  to  deliquesce  into   a  syrupy 
liquid,  its  attraction  for  water  being  intense. 
Its  anhydrous  state  cannot  be  restored  after 


of  real  acid,  and  11  per  cent,  of  water, 
a   highly    deliquescent,   glassy-looking 


dissolved  in  230  parts  of  water,  and  used  as  I  deliquescence  or  solution. 


368 


ACIDS. 


3924.  Dilute  Phosphoric  Acid.     Mix 

5  troy  ounces  nitric  acid  with  ^  piut  distilled 
water  in  a  porcelain  capsule  of  the  capacity 
of  2  pints;  add  6  drachms  phosphorus  and 
invert  over  it  a  glass-  funnel  of  such  dimen- 
sions that  its  rini  may  rest  on  the  inside  of 
the  capsule,  near  the  surface  of  the  liquid. 
Place  the  capsule  on  a  sand-bath,  and  apply 
a  moderate  heat  until  the  phosphorus  is  dis- 
solved, and  red  vapors  cease  to  rise.  If  the 
reaction  becomes  too  violent,  add  a  little  dis- 
tilled water ;  and  if  the  red  vapors  cease  to 
be  evolved  before  the  phosphorus  is  all  dis- 
solved, gradually  add  nitric  acid  (diluted  as 
before)  until  the  solution  is  effected.  Remove 
the  funnel,  continue  the  heat  until  the  excess 
of  nitric  acid  is  driven  off,  and  a  syrupy  liquid, 
free  from  odor  and  weighing  2  troy  ounces, 
remains.  Mix  this,  when  cold,  with  sufficient 
distilled  water  to  measure  20  fluid  ounces,  and 
filter  through  paper. 

Or:  Dissolve  1  troy  ounce  glacial  phos- 
phoric acid  in  3  fluid  ounces  distilled  water ; 
add  40  grains  nitric  acid,  boil  to  a  syrupy  li- 
quid, free  from  the  odor  of  nitric  acid,  add  dis- 
tilled water  to  make  np  to  12£  fluid  ounces, 
and  filter. 

3925.  Tests  for  the  Purity  of  Phos- 
phoric  Acid.     The  TJ.    S.    Pharmacopeia 
directs  that  an  aqueous  solution  of  the  acid 
should  yield  no  precipitate  with  sulphuretted 
hydrogen,  showing  the  absence  of  metals ;  it 
should  cause  a  white  precipitate  with  chloride 
of  barium,  soluble  in  excess  of  acid;   and, 
with  an  excess  of  ammonia,  should  cause  only 
a  slight  turbidness,  proving  the  almost  total 
absence  of  earthy  salts.     If  the    presence 
of  arsenic  is  denoted  by  the  tests  for  that 
metal,  it  may  be  separated  by  boiling  with 
muriatic  acid,  so  as  to  convert  the  arsenic 
into  a  volatile  chloride,  which  would  escape 
with  vapors  of  the  muriatic  acid. 

3926.  Test  for  the  Presence  of  Phos- 
phoric Acid.     Hydrochloric  acid  is  added  to 
the  solution  to  acid  reaction,  and  afterwards 
1  or  2  drops  of  a  concentrated  solution  of  ses- 
quichloride  of  iron;  a  solution  of  acetate  of 
potassa  is  next  added  in  excess,  when  a  floc- 
culent  white  precipitate  (sesqui-phosphate  of 
iron)  will  bo  found  if  phosphoric  acid  was 
present  in  any  form  or  combination  in  the 
original  liquor.    Arsenious  acid,  if  present, 
should  be  removed  by  sulphuretted  hydrogen 
before  applyiug  the  test.     (Cooley.) 

3927.  Phosphorous  Acid.   This  is  pre- 
pared by  burning  phosphorus  under  a  bell- 
glass    with  a   very    limited    supply  of   air. 
White  and  pulverulent.    It  is  a  powerful  de- 
oxidizing agent.    With  the  bases  it  unites  to 
form  PHOSPHITES. 

3928.  Hypophosphoric  Acid.  A 
name  erroneously  given  oy  M.  Dulong  to  a 
mixture  of  phosphoric  and  phosphorous  acids. 
(Cooley.) 

3929.  Tartaric  Acid.  Tartaric  acid 
forms  inodorous,  sour,  scarcely  transparent 
prisms,  soluble  in  2  parts  of  water  at  GO0, 
and  its  own  weight  of  boiling  water.  It 
contains  about  9g  of  combined  water,  fuses  at 
220°  Fahr.,  boils  at  280° ;  and,  at  about  400°, 
after  losing  i  of  its  water,  is  converted  into 
tartralic  acid.  "With  the  bases  it  forms  salts 
called  TARTRATES.  Tartaric  acid  is  chiefly  em- 
ployed in  calico  printing,  and  in  medicine,  as 


a  substitute  for  citric  acid  and  lemon  juice, 
for  the  preparation  of  cooling  drinks  and  saline 
draughts. 

3930.  To  Obtain  Tartaric  Acid.     On 
the  small  scale  it  is  prepared  as  follows :  Dis- 
solve 4  pounds  cream  of  tartar  in  2  gallons 
boiling  water;    add   gradually   12   ounces  7 
drachms  chalk ;  and,  when  the  effervescence 
ceases,  add  another  like  portion  of  chalk,  dis- 
solved in  2GA  fluid  ounces  muriatic  acid,  dilu- 
ted with  4  pints  water ;  collect  the  precipitated 
tartrate  of  lime,  and  well  wash  it  with  water, 
then  boil  it  for  15  minutes  in  8  pints  1  fluid 
ounce  dilute  sulphuric  acid;  next  filter,  evap- 
orate to  the  density  1.38,  and  set  it  aside  to 
crystallize.     The  crystals  must  be  dissolved 
and  crystallized  a  second  and  a  third  time. 

On  the  largo  scale,  the  decomposition  of  the 
tartar  is  usually  effected  in  a  copper  boiler, 
and  that  of  the  tartrate  of  lime  in  a  leaden 
cistern.  This  part  of  the  process  is  often  per- 
formed by  mere  digestion  for  a  few  days,  with- 
out the  application  of  heat.  Leaden  or  stone- 
ware vessels  are  used  as  crystallizers.  Good 
cream  of  tartar  requires  26  per  cant,  of  chalk,- 
and  28.5  per  cent,  of  dry  chloride  of  calcium 
for  its  perfect  decomposition.  Dry  tartrate  of 
lime  requires  75  per  cent,  of  oil  of  vitriol  to 
liberate  the  whole  of  the  tartaric  acid.  A 
very  slight  excess  of  sulphuric  acid  may  be 
advantageously  employed.  Some  manufac- 
turers bleach  the  colored  solution  of  the  first 
crystals  by  treating  it  with  animal  charcoal ; 
but  for  this  purpose  the  latter  substance 
should  be  first  purified  by  digesting  it  in  mu- 
riatic acid,  and  afterwards  by  edulcorating  it 
with  water,  and  exposing  it  to  a  dull  red' heat 
in  a  covered  vessel.  The  general  manage- 
ment of  this  manufacture  resembles  that  of 
citric  acid.  (Cooley.) 

3931.  To   Detect   Tartaric   Acid  in 
Citric  Acid.     Citric  acid  is  sometimes  adul- 
terated with  tartaric  acid.     This  is  readily  de- 
tected by  adding  a  solution  of  carbonate  of 
potassa  to  a  solution  of  the  suspected  acid ;  if 
tartaric  acid  be  present,  a  crystalline  precipit- 
ate of  bitartate  of  potassa  (cream  of  tartar) 
will  bo  found.    A  more  delicate  test  is  to  di- 
gest the  suspected  acid  with  hydrated  sesqui- 
oxide  of  iron  in  a  test  tube,  and  afterwards  to 
raise  the  heat  slowly  to  the  boiling  point ;  al- 
lowing the  excess  of  oxide  to  subside,  decant 
the  clear  liquid,  and  evaporate  it  to  a  syrupy 
consistence.    If  the  citnc  acid  was  pure,  the 
liquid  remains  clear  and  of  a  fine  red  color; 
the  presence  of  only  1  per  cent,  of  tartaric 
acid  renders  it  cloudy,  and  deposits  tartrate  of 
the  sesquioxidc.     (  U.  S.  Dis. ) 

3932.  Citric  Acid.     This  is  an  agree- 
able acid,  cooling  and  antiseptic ;  20  grains  of 
citric  acid  are  equivalent  to  5  fluid  drachms 
lemon  juice.    "When  used  for  making  saline 
draughts,  it  is  preferable  to  use  bicarbonate  of 
potassa  as  the  neutralizing  alkali.    Their  re- 
spective saturating  equivalents  will  be  found 
in  lu>s.  80  and  81.     "With  the  bases  it  forms 

CITRATES. 

3933.  To  Prepare  Citric  Acid.     Add 

4;j  ounces  chalk  by  degrees  to  4  pints  lemon 
juice,  heated,  and  mix;  set  by,  that  the  pow- 
der may  precipitate ;  afterwards  pour  oft'  the 
supernatant  liquor.  "Wash  the  precipitated 
citrate  of  lime  frequently  with  warm  water; 
then  pour  upon  it  27£  fluid  ounces  diluted  sul- 


ACIDS. 


369 


phuric  acid  and  2  pints  distilled  "water,  and 
boil  for  15  minutes ;  press  the  liquor  strongly 
through  a  linen  cloth,  and  filter  it.  Evapor- 
ate the  filtered  liquor  with  a  gentle  heat,  and 
set  it  aside  that  crystals  may  lorni.  To  obtain 
the  crystals  pure,  dissolve  them  in  water  a 
second  and  a  third  time ;  filter  each  solution, 
evaporate,  and  set  it  apart  to  crystallize.  The 
preparation  of  citric  acid  has  become  an  im- 
portant branch  of  chemical  manufacture,  from 
the  large  consumption  of  this  article  in  va- 
rious operations  in  the  arts.  In  conducting 
this  process  some  little  expertness  and  care 
are  necessary  to  ensure  success.  The  chalk 
employed  should  be  dry,  and  in  fine  powder, 
and  be  added  to  the  juice  until  it  be  perfectly 
neutralized,  and  the  quantity  consumed  must 
be  exactly  noted.  The  precipitated  citrate  of 
lime  should  be  well  washed  with  water,  and 
the  sulphuric  acid  diluted  with  6  or  8  times 
its  weight  of  water,  poured  upon  it  while  still 
warm,  and  thoroughly  mixed  with  it.  The 
agitation  must  be  occasionally  renewed  for  8  or 
10  hours,  when  the  dilute  citric  acid  must  be 
poured  off,  and  the  residuum  of  sulphate  of 
lime  thoroughly  washed  with  warm  water, 
and  the  washings  added  to  the  dilute  acid. 
The  latter  must  then  be  poured  off  from  the 
impurities  that  may  have  been  deposited,  and 
evaporated  in  a  leaden  boiler,  over  the  naked 
fire,  until  it  acquires  a  specific  gravity  of  1.13, 
when  the  process  must  be  continued  at  a 
lower  temperature  until  a  pellicle  appears 
upon  the  surface,  This  part  of  the  process 
requires  great  attention  and  judgment,  as,  if 
not  properly  conducted,  the  whole  batch  may 
be  carbonized  and  spoiled.  At  this  point  the 
evaporation  must  be  stopped,  and  the  concen- 
trated solution  emptied  into  warm  and 'clean 
crystallizing  vessels,  set  in  a  dry  apartment, 
where  the  thermometer  does  not  fall  below 
temperate.  At  the  end  of  4  days  the  crystals 
will  be  ready  to  remove  from  the  pans,  when 
they  must  be  well  drained,  redissolved  in  as 
little  water  possible,  and,  after  being  allowed 
to  stand  for  a  few  hours  to  deposit  impurities, 
again  evaporated  and  crystallized.  When  the 
process  has  been  well  managed,  the  acid  of 
the  second  crystallization  will  usually  be  suffi- 
ciently pure ;  but  if  this  be  not  the  case,  a 
third,  or  even  a  fourth  crystallization  must  bo 
had  recourse  to.  The  mother  liquors  from 
the  several  pans  are  collected  together,  and, 
by  evaporation,  yield  a  second  or  third  crop 
of  crystals  obtained  by  evaporation  as  before. 
Citric  acid  crystallizes  with  great  case,  but  in 
some  cases,  where  all  the  citrate  of  lime  has 
not  undergone  decomposition  by  the  sul- 
phuric acid,  a  little  of  that  salt  is  taken  up 
by  the  free  citric  acid,  and  materially  ob- 
structs the  crystallization.  This  is  best 
avoided  by  exactly  apportioning  the  quantity 
of  the  sulphuric  acid  to  that  of  the  chalk 
used,  always  remembering  that  it  requires  a 
quantity  of  liquid  sulphuric  acid,  containing 
exactly  40  parts  of  dry  acid,  to  decompose  50 
parts  of  carbonate  of  lime.  Commercial  sul- 
phuric acid  is  usually  of  the  specific  gravity 
of  1.845;  it  will  therefore  take  exactly  49 
pounds  of  this  acid  for  50  pounds  of  chalk. 
In  practice  it  is  found  that  a  very  slight  ex- 
cess of  sulphuric  acid  is  better  than  leaving 
any  citrate  of  lime  undecomposed.  The  first 
crop  of  crystals  is  called  "  brown  citric  acid/' 


and  is  much  used  by  the  calico  printers. 
Sometimes  a  little  nitric  acid  is  added  to  the 
solution  of  the  colored  crystals,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  whitening  them,  but  in  this  way  a 
minute  quantity  of  oxalic  acid  is  formed. 
Good  lemon  juice  yields  fully  5  per  cent,  of 
lemon  acid,  or  2  gallons  yield  about  1  pound 
of  crystals.  If  the  imported  citrate  of  lime 
be  used,  a  given  quantity  must  be  heated  to 
redness,  and  then  weighed,  when  the  percent- 
age of  lime  present  will  be  ascertained; 
every  28  pounds  of  which  will  require  49 
pounds  of  sulphuric  acid  of  1.845  (or  a  corres- 
ponding quantity  containing  exactly  40  parts 
of  dry  acid)  for  its  complete  decomposition. 

3934.  Tests  for  the  Purity  of  Citric 
Acid.     "WTien  pure,  it  does  not  yield  a  crys- 
talline precipitate  when  added  in  excess  to  a 
solution  of  carbonate  of  potassa ;  such  a  pre- 
cipitate indicates  the  presence  of  tartaric  acid. 
It  is  entirely  soluble  in  water,  and  what  is 
thrown  down  by  acetate  of  lead  from  this  so- 
lution, is  entirely  soluble  in  dilute  nitric  acid. 
N"o  salt  of  potassa,  except  the  tartrate,  yields 
a  precipitate  with  the  aqueous  solution.     It  is 
entirely  decomposed  by  heat ;  added  sparingly 
to  cold  lime  water,  it  does  not  render  it  tur- 
bid, and  when  a  few  drops  of  a  solution  of 
citric  acid  are  added  to  lime  water,  a  clear 
liquid  results,  which,  when  heated,  deposits  a 
white  powder,  soluble   in  acids  without  ef- 
fervescence. 

3935.  Arsenious   Acid.     This  is  the 
arsenic  or  white  arsenic  of  commerce,  im- 
ported chiefly  from  Germany,  also  manufac- 
tured in  quantity  in  Cornwall,  England.    It 
consists  or  large,  glassy,  colorless  or  yellowish- 
white,  semi-transparent  cakes  or  porcelain- 
like  masses,  which  soon  become  opaque  on 
their  exterior,   and    sometimes    friable    and 
pulverulent.       The    transparent    arsenic   is 
found  to  be  more  than  three  times  as  soluble 
in  water  at  55°  Fahr.  than  the  opaque.    In 
taste  it  is  slightly  sweetish,  with  a  slight 
acidity  and  astringency,  not  perceived  until 
some  minutes  after  being  swallowed,  hence 
its  dangerous  character  as  a  poison.     Crude 
arsenic  is  obtained,  as  a  collateral  product, 
during  the  smelting'  of  cobalt  ores.      Pure 
arsenic    is    obtained  from  the    crude,   by  a 
second  sublimation  in  cast-iron  vessels.    The 
arsenic,  as  imported,  has  usually  been  thus 
purified;  and,  unless  otherwise  adulterated, j 
is  sufficiently  pure  for  general  purposes.    It , 
is  sometimes  kept  in  fine  powder,  and  in  this 
state  is  occasionally  found  adulterated  with 
powdered  lime  or  chalk ;  it  is,  therefore,  bet- 
ter to  purchase  it  in  the  lump.     The  salts  of 
arsenious  acid  are  called  ARSENITES. 

3936.  Self -Detecting  Arsenious 
Acid.  By  adding  a  small  quantity  of  any  of 
the  following  substances  to  ordinary  white 
arsenic,  the  mixture  changes  color  when 
mixed  with  liquids.  This  is  proposed  as  a 
method  of  preventing  mistake  in  the  use  of 
this  poisonous  article. 

The  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  a  mix- 
ture of  dry  calomel  and  quicklime  to  the 
arsenic  turns  black  when  mixed  with  a  liquid. 

A  mixture  of  thoroughly  dry  sulphate  of 
iron  and  ferrocyanido  of  potassium  turns  it 
blue. 

Dry  sulphate  of  iron  and  dry  sulphate  of 
soda  turns  green. 


370 


ACIDS. 


3937.  Tests  for  the  Presence  of  Ar- 
senious    Acid.     A  weak  solution  of  ani- 
monio-acetate  of  copper  added  to  a  solution 
of   white    arsenic    (arsenious   acid)    throws 
down  a  grass  green  precipitate  of  arsenite  of 
copper  (Scheele's   green)       This  precipitate, 
after  being  washed,  is  soluble  in  nitric  acid, 
and  in  ammonia;    is  turned  a  brownish-red 
by    a   solution    of    sulphuretted    hydrogen, 
blood-red  by  ferrocyanide  of  potassium,  and 
yellow  by  nitrate  of  silver. 

Arsenious  acid  in  solution  throws  down  a 
yellow  precipitate  of  arsenite  of  silver  from 
a  solution  of  ammonio-nitrate  of  silver. 

There  arc  a  number  of  delicate  tests  em- 
ployed for  detecting  the  presence  of  arsenic 
m  organic  matter,  such  as  the  contents  of 
the  stomach  or  other  viscera,  all  more  or  less 
involving  the  preparation  of  the  matter  before 
applying  the  tests,  and  requiring  the  manipu- 
lation of  an  experienced  analytical  chemist. 
A  very  susceptible  test,  and  recommended  by 
Cooley  for  its  simplicity,  is  as  follows :  A  so- 
lution of  the  suspected  matter  is  strongly 
acidulated  with  muriatic  acid  in  the  pro- 
portion of  1  part  muriatic  acid  to  from  5  to  9 
parts  of  the  solution;  this  is  boiled  in  a 
porcelain  or  glass  vessel  containing  bright 
and  clean  metallic  copper  in  the  form  of 
sheet,  gauze,  or  wire.  In  about  15  minutes,  if 
the  solution  be  weak,  or  less,  if  strong, 
presence  of  arsenic  will  be  noted  by  the 
characteristic  iron-gray  film  of  arsenic  de- 
posited on  the  surface  of  the  copper.  The 
copper,  having  been  carefully  washed  and 
dned,  may  bo  cut  into  small  pieces  and  heated 
in  a  test  tube  over  a  spirit  lamp,  when  the 
metallic  arsenic  is  volatilized,  and  will  be  con- 
densed either  in  metallic  form  or  in  crystals 
of  arsenious  acid.  This  is  known  as  Eensch's 
test 

3938.  Arsenic  Acid.     An  acid  formed 
by  the  combination  of  metallic  arsenic  with 
oxygen.      It  is    sour,   reddens    litmus,   and 
forms  salts  with  the  bases,  which  arc  termed 
ARSENIATES.     By  careful  evaporation  it  may 
be  obtained  under  the  form  of  small  grains, 
but  usually  has  the  consistence  of  syrup,  be- 
ing very  deliquescent. 

3939.  To  Obtain  Arsenic  Acid.    Pour 
6  parts  of  strong  nitric  acid  on  1  part  of  white 
arsenic  (arsenious  acid)  in  a  glass  vessel,  and 
distill  until  the  solution  acquires  the  consist- 
ence  of   a    syrup,   then    transfer  it  into  a 
platina  crucible,  and  expose  it  for  some  time 
to  a  faint  dull  red  heat,  to  expel  the  nitric 
acid.    The  addition  of  a  little  muriatic  acid 
facilitates  the  process. 

3940.  Tests  for  the  Presenfce  of  Ar- 
senic Acid.     Sulphuretted  hydrogen  gives 
a  yellow  precipitate  ;   nitrate  of  silver  adde(3 
to  the  solution  of  an  arseniate  gives  a  pre- 
cipitate of  a  brick  red  color ;  nitrate  of  lead 
gives  a  white  one,  and  the  salts  of  copper  a 
uluish  colored  one.     Pure  lump  sugar  dis- 
solved in  an  aqueous  solution  of  arsenic  acid, 
becomes  in  a  few  hours  of  a  reddish  color,  anc 
afterwards    of   a  magnificent    purple.      For 
some  test  purposes  it  will  be  advisable  to  adc 
sulphurous  acid  to  the  suspected  liquor,  anc 
boil  it  for  a  short  time,  when  the  arsenic  acid 
will  be  reduced  to  arsenious  acid,  in  which 
stato  it  will  be  susceptible  of  more  delicate 
tests.     (See  No.  3937.) 


3941.  Manganesic    Acid — also  called 
'crmanganic  acid — may  be  obtained  by  mix- 
ug  8  parts  of  binoxide  of  manganese  with  7 
>arts  of  chlorate  of  potassa,  both  in  fine  pow- 
ler,  adding  10  parts  of  hydrate  of  potassa, 

dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  evap- 
irating  to  dryness,  powdering,  exposing  the 
>owder  to  a  low  red  heat  in  a  platinum  cruci- 
)le,  dissolving  the  mass  in  a  large  quantity  of 
water,  decanting,  evaporating,  and  crystalliz- 
ng.  These  crystals  are  permanganate  of  po- 
tassa, from  which  the  acid  may  be  obtained 
by  conversion  into  permanganate  of  baryta, 
and  by  careful  decomposition  by  dilute  sul- 
phuric acid.  (Gregory.)  It  has  a  fine  red 
lolor,  bleaches,  and  is  rapidly  decomposed  by 
organic  matter.  It  unites  with  some  of  the 
jases  to  form  PERMANGANATES. 

3942.  Benzoic    Acid.      This   is    also 
called  flowers  of  benzoin  or  benjamin.    It  has 
;he  form  of  white  crystalline  needles  of  a 
silky  lustre,   possessing  an  agreeable   odor. 
Benzoic  acid  fuses  at  230°  Fahr.,  is  volatile 
when  heated,  dissolves  sparingly  in  cold  wa- 
ter, with  less  difficulty  in  boiling  water,  and 
very  freely  in  alcohol.     Its  salts  are   called 

BENZOATES. 

3943.  To  Obtain  Benzoic  Acid.     Put 
oarsely  triturated  benzoin  into  an  iron  pot 

with  a  flat  bottom,  whose  diameter  is  from  8 
to  9  inches;  the  benzoin  forming  therein  a 
layer  of  from  1  to  2  inches  in  depth.  The 
open  end  of  the  pot  is  then  to  be  covered  with 
a  sheet  of  soft  and  loose  blotting-paper,  which 
must  bo  attached  to  the  rim  with  paste.  A 
cone,  formed  with  strong  and  thick  .paper, 
(cartridge  paper),  is  then  to  be  capped  over 
the  top  of  the  pot,  including  the  blotting 
paper;  and  this  is  also  to  be  attached  with 
paste  and  string.  The  apparatus,  thus  pre- 
pared, should  then  bo  placed  on  the  sand- 
bath,  and  exposed  from  4  to  6  hours  to  a 
gentle  heat.  After  this  lapse  of  time,  it  may 
be  removed  from  the  sand-bath,  inverted,  and 
the  string  detached,  when  beautiful  white 
needles,  of  a  silky  lustre,  possessing  the 
agreeable  odor  of  benzoic  acid,  will  bo  found 
in  the  paper  cone. 

3944.  To  Obtain  Anhydrous  Benzoic 
Acid.     Add  oxychloride  of  phosphorus  to  an 
excess  of  beuzoate  of  soda ;  agitate  together, 
and  wash  the  mixture  with  boiling  water. 
The  anhydrous    benzoic  acid    sinks    like    a 
heavy  oil,  and  crystallizes  on  cooling. 

3945.  Chromic  Acid.     This  consists  of 
acicular  crystals  of  a  crimson-red  color  and 
an  acid  metallic  taste,  deliquescent,  and  very 
soluble  in  water,  forming  an  orange-yellow 
solution.      With  the  bases  this  acid  forms 
CHROMATES.     Chromate  of  lead  forms    the 
pigment  known  as  chrome-yellow. 

3946.  To  Obtain  Chromic  Acid.    Take 
10  measures  of  a  saturated  cold  solution  of 
bichromate  of  potassa,  mix  with  it  15  mea- 
sures sulphuric  acid,  and  allow  the  mixture  to 
cool.    The  chromic  acid  is  deposited  in  crys- 
tals, which,  after  decanting  the  mother  liquid, 
are  placed  on  a  tile  to  drain,  covered  with  a 
bell  glass. 

3947.  Hydrocyanic  Acid.    This  is  also 
called  prussic  acid,  and  consists   of  a  thin, 
colorless,  and  volatile  liquid,  having  a  strong 
odor  of  peach  kernels.     It  boils  at  79°  Fahr. 
and  solidifies   at  45°;  its   specific  gravity  is 


A  CIDS. 


371 


.7058.  It  constitutes  one  of  the  most  deadly 
poisons  known.  Its  salts  are  HYDROCYAN- 
ATES  and  METALLIC  CYANIDES.  Prussic  acid, 
even  when  dilute,  is  very  liable  to  sponta- 
neous decomposition,  and  this  speedily-  occurs 
when  it  is  exposed  to  the  light.  To  promote 
its  preservation,  it  is  usual  to  surround  the 
bottles  containing  it  with  thick  purple  paper, 
and  to  keep  them  inverted  in  an  obscure  sit- 
uation. The  addition  of  a  very  small  quan- 
tity of  muriatic  acid  renders  it  much  less 
liable  to  change,  and  is  generally  made  by 
manufacturers  for  that  purpose. 

3948.  To  Obtain  Anhydrous  Prussic 
Acid.     Pure  crystallized  ferrocyanide  of  po- 
tassium, 15  parts ;  water  and  sulphuric  acid. 
of  each  9  parts ;  distill  in  a  glass  retort  into  a 
well-cooled  receiver,   containing  chloride   of 
calcium  in  coarse  fragments,  5  parts;   stop 
the  process  as  soon  as  the  chloride  in  the  re- 
ceiver is  perfectly  covered  by  the  distilled 
fluid,  and  decant  the  acid  into  a  bottle  fur- 
nished with  a  good  stopper.    Keep  it  in  the 
dark,  with  the  bottle  inverted. 

3949.  Dilute  Prussic    Acid.     Mix  41 
grains  muriatic  acid  with  1  fluid  ounce  dis- 
tilled water,  add  50|  grains  cyanide  of  silver, 
and  shake  together  in  a  well  stopped  phial. 
When  the  precipitate  has  subsided,  pour  off  the 
clear  dilute  acid  and  keep  for  use.     (See  No. 
3947.)     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

3950.  Tests  for  the  Presence  of  Prus- 
sic Acid.     It  is  distinguished  by  a  strong 
odor  of  bitter  almonds. 

Neutralized  by  potash,  and  tested  with  a 
solution  of  sulphate  or  tincture  of  iron,  it 
gives  a  blue  precipitate,  or  one  turning  blue 
on  the  addition  of  dilute  sulphuric  or  muriatic 
acid.  This  test  may  be  applied  by  spreading 
a  single  drop  of  solution  of  potassa  over  the 
bottom  of  a  white  saucer  or  porcelain  capsule, 
and  inverting  it  over  another  vessel  of  the 
same  size  containing  the  matter  under  exam- 
ination. After  2  to  5  minutes  remove  the 
upper  capsule ;  add  to  the  potassa  upon  it,  a 
single  drop  of  a  solution  of  sulphate  or  tinc- 
ture of  iron,  and  expose  it  to  the  air  for  a  few 
seconds.  Next  add  1  or  2  drops  of  dilute 
sulphuric  acid,  when  a  blue  color  will  bo  de- 
veloped if  hydrocyanic  acid  is  present  in  the 
matter  tested. 

Nitrate  of  silver  gives  a  white  clotty  pre- 
cipitate, soluble  in  boiling  nitric  acid;  and 
which,  when  dried  and  heated  in  a  test  tube, 
evolves  fumes  of  cyanogen,  which  burn  with 
a  violet  or  bluish  colored  flame.  A  watch 
glass,  moistened  with  this  test  and  inverted 
over  matter  containing  hydrocyanic  acid,  be- 
comes opaque  and  white  from  the  formation 
of  cyanide  of  silver. 

Liebig's  test  is  considered  the  most  delicate. 
Moisten  a  watch- gkiss  or  porcelain  capsule 
with  1  or  2  drops  of  yellow  hydrosulphuret  of 
ammonia ;  invert  it  over  the  matter  as  before, 
and  after  a  few  miuutes  dry  it  with  a  gentle 
heat.  A  glass  rod  dipped  in  a  solution  of  a 
persalt  or  sesquisalt  of  iron,  drawn  over  the 
glass,  will  form  a  blood-red  streak  if  the 
smallest  quantity  of  hydrocyanic  acid  is  pres- 
ent. (Coolei/.) 

3951.  Test  for  the  Strength  of  Prus- 
sic Acid.  For  estimating  the  strength  of 
the  commercial  acid  the  following  plan,  pro- 
posed by  Dr.  Ure,  will  be  found  very  exact ! 


and  convenient.  To  100  grains,  or  any  other 
convenient  quantity  of  the  acid  contained  in 
a  small  phial,  add  in  succession,  small  quan- 
tities of  the  peroxide  of  mercury  in  fine 
powder,  till  it  ceases  to  bo  dissolved  on  agita- 
tion. The  weight  of  the  red  precipitate  taken 
up  being  divided  by  4,  gives  a  quotient  repre- 
senting the  quantity  of  real  prussic  acid 
present.  By  weighing  out  beforehand,  on  a 
piece  of  paper  or  a  watch-glass,  40  or  50  grains 
of  the  peroxide,  the  residual  weight  of  it 
shows  at  once  the  quantity  expended.  The 
operation  may  be  always  completed  in  five 
minutes,  for  the  red  precipitate  dissolves  as 
rapidly  in  the  dilute  prussic  acid,  with  the  aid 
of  slight  agitation,  as  sugar  dissolves  in  wa- 
ter. Should  the  presence  of  muriatic  acid  be 
suspected,  then  the  difference  in  the  volatility 
of  prussiate  and  muriate  of  ammonia  may  be 
had  recourse  to  with  advantage;  the  former 
exhaling  at  a  very  gentle  heat,  the  latter  re- 
quiring a  subliming  temperature  of  about 
300°  Fahr.  After  adding  ammonia  in  slight 
excess  to  the  prussic  acid,  if  we  evaporate  to 
dryness  at  a  heat  of  212°,  wo  may  infer  from 
the  residuary  sal-ammoniac  the  quantity  of 
muriatic  acid  present.  Every  grain  of  sal- 
ammoniac  corresponds  to  .6822  grains  of  mu- 
riatic acid. 

3952.  Cyanic  Acid.     A  compound    of 
cyanogen  and    oxygen    only    known  in  its 
hydrated  state  in  combination  with  1  equiva- 
lent of  water.     It  combines  with  bases  to 
form  CYANATES.     "When  in  contact  with  wa- 
ter for  a  few  hours  it  suffers  decomposition, 
and  is  converted  into  bicarbonate  of  ammonia. 
It  cannot  be  preserved  for  any  length  of  time, 
as  it  soon  passes  spontaneously  into  a  white, 
opaque,  solid  mass,  to  which  the  name  of 
cyamelide  has  been  given,  which  may  be  re- 
converted into  cyanic  acid  by  distillation.     It 
reddens  litmus  strongly. 

3953.  To  Obtain  Cyanic  Acid.     Distill 
dry  cyanuric  acid,  or  cyamelide,  in  a  retort, 
and  collect  the  product  in  a  well-cooled  re- 
ceiver.     It  is  also  formed  when  cyanogen 
is    transmitted    over   carbonate    of    potassa 
heated  to  redness ;  a  cyanate  of  potassa  re- 
sults. 

Or :  Pass  a  current  of  sulphuretted  hydro- 
gen gas  through  water  in  which  cyanate  of 
silver  is  diffused.  The  sulphuretted  hydro- 
gen must  not  be  passed  so  long  as  to  decom- 
pose all  the  cyanate  of  silver;  for  then  the 
cyanic  acid  is  converted  into  other  products 
by  the  excess  of  the  sulphuretted  hydrogen. 
3954.  Hydroferridcyanic  Acid. 
This  is  sometimes  written  liydroferricyanic 
acid,  and  is  a  compound  of  ferridcyanogen 
and  hydrogen.  With  the  oxides  of  metals 
this  acid  forms  FERRIDCYANIDES  ;  the  ferrid- 
cyanide  of  potassium  is  the  red  prussiate  of 
potash  used  in  the  arts. 

3955.  To  Obtain  Hydroferridcyanic 
Acid.  Prepared  by  decomposing  recently 
precipitated  ferridcyanide  of  lead  by  sul- 
phuretted by  hydrogen,  or  by  sulphuric  acid 
carefully  added.  A  yellow  solution  is  thus 
obtained,  which  yields  a  deep  brown  powder 
when  evaporated  by  heat,  or  yellow  Crystals 
by  spontaneous  evaporation. 

3956.  Hydroferrocyanic  Acid.  A 
peculiar  compound  of  cyanogen,  hydrogen, 
and  iron,  discovered  by  M.  Po'rret,  and  called 


It  consists  of 
white  crystal*,  soluble  in 


Arid.    It  maybe 

mfliuVsolutiou 

out  of  contact  with  tbe 
muriatic  add  added  in  excuw.  Themix- 
tur«  is  th«u  agitated  with  afittfe  ether,  which 
tcparatot  the  add;  the  latter  is  collected  by 
iteration,  and  dried. 

I  Lactic  Acid.  This  is  a  limpid. 
fiquid,  colorless  or  of  a  paw  wine 
color,  with  a  slight  odor  and  very  sour  taste, 
R  is  feund  m  sour  milk,  and  coma  other  ani- 
malftaH^  and  msev««al  vegetable  jukes.  **K 
penally  in  that  of  beet-root.  It  unites  with 
U^tefenaiACTAtm. 

To  Ofctam  Lactic  Arid. 

of 


3M4.  Perchloric  Acid.  A  eotatfes* 
Kqttid  oT  about  IM  speeifi*  gravity,  whieh 
fumes  sfichtly  in  tk*  air,  attract  moisture* 
and  distills  unchanged  at  about  39F  Fahr. 
With  bases  it  forms  pntcauv 


396S.  To  Obtain  Perchloric  Arid. 
To  finely  powdered  perchlorate  of  potass* 
n  a  retort,,  add  about  £  its  weight 
^j  sulphuric  add,  previously  diluted 
an  equal  weight  of  water.  At  about 
vapors  of  pwhlonci  add  pass 
ov^er  and  condense  in  the  receiver.  (tVMwy.) 
US*  organic  matter  should  be  used  as  a  lute 
forthejointsofthei 


balk; 


. 

aod  filter,  and  On*  satwate  it 
Tbk  coBTHta  tb«  krtic 


Kfiltend  anla  aad]»e- 
cnttated  bToxafie  Mid,  vbidkfbravs  dowu 
•oahteof  Inteand  »tsfn»  tbe  hetia  and. 
cal  is  agam  fiitercd,  and  tbe  filtrate 
of  a  solatia*  of  netfe  and,  containing 


Sext  nnautaata  tha  solution  to  a 
,  and  treat  it  with  alcohol, 

and  and  precipitates   all  tbe 
The  solution  bfinalrr  filtered 
and  the  lactic  and  obtained  pura  by  d» 

affthe  alcohol    (F.&XK*,) 

•  •••i**       ••» .  _    »  _».»       *riiK  « 


strictly  fcudri. 

of  hydrogen  and  tnorine.    Its 


name  time  at  a  low  beat, 
it  is  converted  into  ptarmmuKe  or  Jf*m*ri€ 
•na;  and  when  quickly  distilled,  it  yields 
«K»*  while  fumark  add  isj  ~' 


s."    The  wefl  known  mineral.  jUwr- 
*rm*,  is  a  ftaoude  cf  calcium.    Fluoric  and 
readily  dissolves  glass  and  sttka,  hence  it  is 
t  lead,  saver,  platinum,,  or 


it  a  a* 

in 

exposed  to  tbe  air.  and 
u 

fhwr-gaarwith  twice  its  weight  ofotfof  vitriol 
m  a  leaden,  or  better,  a  liver  alembic,  the 
pipe  of  whkh  fits  into  a  bottle  of  the 
matt-rial,  •iiwnilai  with  lee.  But  as  it  is 
ly  reauired  in  a  diluted  state,  water 
ia  weight  to  the  spar  may  be  put  into 
the  receiver.  Grant  care  must  be  taken,  as 
the  arid,  both  in  3a  gnawua  and  Bquid  farm, 


Chloric  Arid.    This  is  a  yellow 
ish  fiquid,  tmnltiug  fike  nitric  add;  it  eete 
fire  to  paper  or  other  dry  organic  matter.    It 
BacouqMandofn^knnttanil«xyg«n,and  in 

908SL    To  Obtain  Ghloric  Arid.    Bn- 
aatro  cttoeate  of  baryta  in  16  times  its  weigh 
of  water;  thmattdiratesciphnrieadd  until 
all  the  baryta  be  precipitated  as  sulphate. 

"I  by 


eraputatian  to  a  tbia,  ofly  onmamtanf  < , 


Bquid  add  with  oU  of  vitriol  at 
a  gentle  heat,  crystals  of  perchloric  arid  will 
be  deposited  on  the  neek  of  the  retort  and  in 
the  receiver.  These  crystals  fuse  at  113? 
and  are  very  dehquescent.  (Jtoatik.) 
ft.  Butyric  Acid.  A  thin,  colorless, 
Squid,  soluble  la  water  and  alcohol; 
fie  gravity  .963;  boils  at  SB^Puhr.  It 
maybe  procured  from  thebutyrate  of  mag- 
aesm  by  adding  a  little  sulphuric  add  in  quan- 
tity not  quite  snffident  to  decompose  the  whole 
of  the  butyrate  used;  filter  and  distill  the 
dear  liquor,  when  the  product  will  be  butyric 
and,  from  which,  the  water  may  be  removed 
b£  chloride  of  calcium.  It  forms  teferafe* 
nth  some  of  the  bases,  f  »Sw  .«•.  lCJ*.i 
3907.  Malic  Arid.  Mafic  and  it  rery 
soluble  in  water,  sfightry  defiquescent,  has  a 
pleasant  acidulous  taste,  and,  when  neutral- 


•Me  add,  MAIXJLTCS.  Take  the  juke  of  the 


fruit  of  the  mountain  ash,  inunediatety  after 
it  baa  tanned  red,  but  still  unripe;  heat  it  to 
the  boiling  point,  skim,  filter,  nearly  neu- 
•e  with  ammonia,  and  predpitate  with 
a  solution  of  1  part  of  acetate  of  lead  to  every 
irts  of  juke;  filter,  and  again  predpitate 
nitrate  of  lead;  allow  the  whole  to  stand 
until  it  forms  a  mass  of  crystals,  then  well 
wvh.  dry.  powder,  suspend  in  water,  and  de- 
nse by  a  current  of  sulphuretted  hydro- 
gen; again  filter,  nentrafixe  with  ammonia, 
decolor  with  animal  charcoal,  a  second  time 
predpitate  with  nitrate  of  lead,  and  decom- 
the  resulting  nitrate  cf  lead  fay  nlphur- 
lastiy,  filter,  evaporate  and 
tadtfcr.)  Mr.  Everett 
of  the  leafstalks  of  , 
as  a  source  of  mafic  add.  One 

of  this  juke  contains 
grs.  of  dry  mafic  and.  The  stalks  snoura 
be  peeled  before  preeang  out  the  juke,  as  the 
cuticle  contains  much  color.  Everett's  pro- 
eossis  as  follows:  Meutrafiae  with  hydrate  of 
fin*,  boil,  filter,  precipitate  with  nitrate  of 
tend,  aUov  it  to  stand  for  a  few  hours,  boil, 
cool,  filter,  decompose  the  precipitate  with 
sulphuric  add.  avoiding  excess,  throw  down 
the  excess  of  lead  from  tbe  supernatant  por- 
tion with  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  evaporate, 
and  erystalfiae.  Mafic  add  is  also  obtained 
from  the  juke  of  apples  and  several  other 
sorts  of  fruit. 


ALKALIES 


3968.     lod:.-.  A.rl/1     I 


I  9*j gen, 

ItH 


lofiod- 

with  the 
very  soluble  in 
i  with  inflammable  bod- 
ies fike  the  nitrates  and  chlorates, 

9009.    To   Obtain  IbdJe  Acid,    Bis- 
solve  iodate  of 
••denote  excess,  boa  for 
the  ssintion  aside  to  erystaffiie. 

Or:  Iodine,!  part 
ted)  nitric  acid,  4  parts;  BOX,  awl  apply  a 
'    beatnntfltbVeolorofthe     ~ 

•     :~--^ 


, 

the  rasidunm  in  the  open  air  at  » 
of  about  SiP   Fahr.    When,  by  attracting 
meisfame,  ft  has  acquired  the  r  oueisf  fur  e  of  « 


•Trap,  pot  it  into  a  place 

tme-js  higher  and  the  air  drier,  when/in  a 


Put 


few  dars,  rery  fine  white  crystals  of 
boidal  shape  win  form, 

Mr.  JL  CoonelFi  method  is  as  foDows 
50  grains  of  iodine  into  a  large,  tall 
addl  ounce  of  faring  nitric  add,  boO, 
as  flie  *^''w  sublimes  and  eondensas  on  the 
of  the  flask,  continually  wash  it 
with  the  add.    Continue  this 
i  of  the  iodine  rents 
:    -.-  :;-.-:   - -.-.   .-..-.-...    : 
dish,  and  eraporate  to 
and  again  evaporate  titt  afi  the  mtrous  add  is 

3970.  Hydriodie  Acid.    Thsisi 
pound  of  iodine  and  hydrogen.    In  gs 
form  it  is  colorless,  fumes  m  the  air,  i 
rery  soluble  in  water.    In  liquid  form, 
strong,  it  is  rety  fiaMe  to  change,  and 
be  kept  in  wefl  stoppered  bottles.    In 
nation  with  bases  it  forms  HTDDOOATES. 

be  easily  formed  by 
j  the  add  wnh  tbeoxidesorhydn 
of  the  bases,  or  mute  economically,  by  act 
on  the  bases  in  water,  with  iodine.  When  the 
hydriodates  are  deprired  of  their  water,  they 
are  true  uwnns;  that  is, 
tions  with  iodine.  (See  3T0.  £5l) 

3971.  To  Obtain    Hydriodie 
a  little 


„. 
by  driodie  •adwffl  be  erotod, 

—    ~~       — 


wai  he  formed. 

in  a  retort,  9 
,  when 


:  acid  wfll  he  evolred. 
3972.     Dilute  Hydriodie  Acid. 
1  troy  ounce  iodine  in  fine  powder.    Mix  90 

r: -  "-•    ' :'  "._  .-     .-.-i--.   ~  '.:.  ' 
tflled  water  in  a  tall 
bottle,  and  pass  into 
P^fit^»  »fiA  f*m  n»fil  tt»m  color  of  the 
entirely  dimpptsn,  and  a  turbid  liquid  re- 
mains,   tfext,  jsaduallr  add  the 


the 


.:   :.     :.:    :.-i 

eobrless,  and  decant  it  into  a 

ichitmust  nearly  fin ;  boO  it  un- 
to m  off  the  odor  of  hydmnm- 
fhprie  arid,  and  filter  thrnnch 


I:--.:  .- 


- 


bring  the  filtered  liquid  to  6 
JEeep  it  in  a  weD-stoppend  bottle. 

BLJ 


±\_  thepropertrof  msjludiiii 
«Mmtam«  with  them  m  fixed 

low  tormerie  paper  brown. 
aflraBrs  ara  soda,  potassa, 

first  has  heencaued  the 

the  regetable,  and  tike  und  the 

alkali;  bet  time  distinetion  is  now 

Sooa  and  notnssa  hare  also  been 

fixed  alkafea,  from  their  pi  imimi  an  lathe 

fire.    The  alkanes  are  i 


second 


The  salts  of  the  alkafies,  both 
bonated,  are  generally  fieety 
The  methods  for  ascertamms;  thei 

f  and  their  sohrtiont  wit  be 
Alkafimetry,  Vo.  83L 
3974.    Potanrnv     Pare  potash  (n 
Mash  of  commerce,  which  is  an  im**: 
mate  of  pursasaX  is  tibe  oride  of 
ttoeevrs  in  two  forms,  mmkpanms  and  Iw- 

term  potmA  •pplin  to  the 


3975. 
puM* 

CIH  lustre,  an 
hmni   nm 
obtained  bythei 
hotdtTair.       ^ 

89Ff&.  Hydrate  of  Potauan*  Hydxated 
or  eamfHe  pottm,  when  perfectly  pure,  m 
white,  soHdJjnpysomhjte  inV«ter  anaia  at 
cohoL  rery  defiauescent*  and  eorjmsire.  To 
•tamper 
feumWi 

Pour  Om 
cold,  put  it 


374 


ALKALIES. 


3981.  Ammonia.     Pure  ammonia  is  an 
incondensable  colorless  gas,  possessing  great 
pungency  and  acridness,  and  powerful  alka- 
fine^properties.     "Water  readily  absorbs  about 
500  times  its  volume  of  this  substance,  and  in 
this    state    forms    strong    liquid    ammonia, 
which,  when  much  more  dilute,  is  popularly 
known  as  spirits  of  hartshorn,  or  water  of 
ammonia.     As  usually  met  with  in  the  form 
of  a  semi-crystalline  whitish  mass,  commonly 
called  smelling  salts,  it  is  combined  with  car- 
bonic acid  and  water,  forming  a  sesquicar- 
bonate  of  this  base.    According  to  the  theory 
of  Berzelius,  ammonia  should  be  the  oxide  of 
ammonium,    a    supposed   but    undiscovered 
metal.    Its  presence  can  always  be  detected 
by  its  pungent  odor. 

3982.  To  Obtain  Ammonia.     Mix  un- 
slacked  lime  with  an  equal  weight  of  sal-am- 
moniac, both  dry  and  in  fine  powder ;  intro- 
duce the  mixture  into  a  glass  retort,  and  join 
the  beak  by  a  collar  of  India-rubber  to  a  glass 
tube  about  18  inches  long,  which  must  lie 
horizontally,  and  have  its  beak  beut  up  ready 
to  be  placed  under  a  glass  jar,  on  the  shelf  of 
a  mercurial  pneumatic  trough.     Heat  being 
applied  by  means  of  a  spirit-lamp,  and  the  air 
contained  in  the  apparatus  having  been  ex- 
pelled, the    gas  may  be  collected  for   use. 
Ammonia  cannot  be  dried  by  means  of  chlo- 
ride of  calcium. 

3983.  Litbia.     This  is  the  oxide  of  lith- 
ium ;  is  caustic,  alkaline,  and  sparingly  solu- 
ble in  water.     One  of  its  most  remarkable 
properties  is  its  power  of  corroding  platinum. 
In  the  form  of  the  hydrate  it  is  white  and 
translucent,  does  not  deliquesce,  but  absorbs 
carbonic  acid  and  becomes  opaque.     It  is  to 
be  obtained  from  various  minerals,  and  is  also 
found  in  some  mineral  waters ;  among  which 
is  that  of  the  Gettysburg  spring.     Pure  lithia 
may  be  obtained  by  decomposing  sulphate  of 
lithia  by  acetate  of  baryta,  and  by  expelling 
the  acetic  acid  from  the  filtered  solution  by 
heat. 

3984.  Tests  for  Lithia.    It  colors  the 
flame  of  alcohol  containing  it  a  carmine  red. 
It  is  distinguished  from  potassa  and  soda  by 
its  phosphate  and  carbonate  being  only  spar- 
ingly soluble  in  water;  from  baryta,  strontia, 
and  lime,  by  forming  cry stallizable  and  soluble 
salts  with  sulphuric  or  oxalic  acid ;  and  from 
magnesia,  by  the  solution  of  its  carbonate  ex- 
hibiting an  alkaline  reaction. 

3985.  Baryta.     This  alkaline  earth   is 
the  oxide  of  barium,  and  is  found  abundantly 
in  the  form  of  native  sulphate  and  carbonate 
of  baryta.     "With  the  acids  it  forms    salts 
which  are  all  more  or  less  white ;  except  the 
Bulphate,  they  are  soluble  in  water,  or  in 
dilute  muriatic  acid,  and  are  extremely  poi- 
sonous. 

3986.  To  Obtain  Pure  Baryta.    Ignite 
pure  crystallized  nitrate  of  baryta  in  a  capa- 
cious   porcelain    crucible,   until    red    vapors 
cease  to  be  evolved.     This  forms  a  grayish 
white  mass  or  powder,  which,  on  the,  addition 
of  water,  slacks  like  lime,  but  with  the  evolu- 
tion of  more  heat. 

3987.  To  Obtain  Hydrated  Baryta. 
It  may  be  precipitated  from  a  solution   of 
either  nitrate  or  chloride  of  barium,  by  adding 
to  it  a  solution  of  pure  potassa  or  soda,  col- 
lecting and  drying  the  precipitate. 


It  is  obtained  in  crystals,  by  boiling  a 
strong  solution  of  sulphuret  01  barium  with 
successive  portions  of  black  oxide  (protoxide) 
of  copper,  until  it  ceases  to  give  a  black  pre- 
cipitate with  a  salt  of  lead.  The  liquid,  after 
filtration,  yields  crystals  of  hydrate  of  baryta 
on  cooling. 

3988.  Test  for  Baryta.    Its  solutions 
give  an  immediate    clear  white  precipitate 
with  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  which  is  insoluble 
in  both  acids  and  alkalies. 

3989.  Strontia.     An  alkaline  earth,  the 
oxide  of  a  metal  called  strontium.     It  greatly 
resembles  baryta.      Hydrate  of   strontia   is 
freely  soluble  in  boiling  water,  and  the  satura- 
ted solution  deposits  crystals  on  co'oling.    The 
solution  exhibits  an  alkaline  reaction,  and, 
like  baryta,  is  precipitated  white  by  sulphuric 
acid  and  the  alkaline  sulphates  and  carbon- 
ates.    It  is  distinguished  from  baryta  by  its 
inferior  solubility  and  by  its  soluble  salts  giv- 
ing a  red  tinge  to  flame,  while  the  salts  of 
baryta  impart  a  yellow  tinge.    The  salts  of 
strontia  may  all  be  prepared  by  dissolving  the 
native  carbonate  in  the  respective  acids.     The 
nitrate  is  the  only  one  met  with  in  com- 
merce, and  is  employed  to  form  colored  fire- 
works. 

3990.  Magnesia.      An  alkaline    earth, 
the  oxide  of  the  metal  magnesium,  in  the  form 
of  a  very  light,  white,  odorless  and  tasteless 
powder,  almost  insoluble  in  cold  and  boiling 
water.     It  slowly  absorbs  carbonic  acid  from 
the  atmosphere.     "With  the  acids  it  forms 
salts,  most  of  which  may  be  made  by  tho 
direct  solution  of  the  earth,  or  its  hydrajte  or 
carbonate.     It  dissolves  in  hydrochloric  acid 
without  effervescence.     Neither  bicarbonate 
of  potassa  nor  chloride   of  barium  throws 
down  anything  from  the  solution.     It  turns 
turmeric  paper  brown  when  moistened. 

3991.  To  Obtain  Magnesia.    Export 
carbonate  of  magnesia  iu  a  crucible  to  a  full 
red  heat  for  2  hours,  or  till  the  powder  sus- 
pended in  water  does  not  effervesce  on  tho 
addition  of  muriatic  acid.     On  the  large  scale, 
covered  crucibles,  made  of  porous  earthen- 
ware, ai'e  employed  as  the  containing  vessels, 
and  tho  heat  is  applied  by  placing  them  ill  a 
sort  of  furnace  or  oven  heated  with  coke. 

3992.  Test  for  Magnesia.     Magnesia 
is  precipitated  as  a  bulky  white  hydrate,  by 
pure  alkalies;  and  as  a  bulky  white  carbonate, 
by  the  carbonates  of  potassa  and  soda.     Both 
the  above  precipitates  dissolve  in  nitric  and 
muriatic  acid,  forming  salts  which  are  very 
deliquescent,  and  soluble  in  alcohol. 

Solutions  of  magnesian  salts  are  not  preci- 
pitated by  the  alkaline  sulphates  or  sulphuric 
acid,  nor,  when  very  dilute,  by  oxalate  of 
ammonia.  By  these  tests  it  may  be  distin- 
guished and  separated  .from  lime.  These 
tests  distinguish  it  from  the  other  earths,  and 
its  insolubility  in  alkaline  solutions  marks  its 
difference  from  alumina. 

3993.  Lime.     A  highly  acrid,  alkaline 
and  caustic  earth,  less  insoluble  in  cold  than 
in  hot  water.     It  is  the  oxide  of  calcium. 
When  heated  to  a  high  degree,  it  becomes  in- 
tensely luminous,  and  is  well  known  in  use  as 
the  calcium  light. 

3994.  To  Obtain  Lime.   Lime,  or  quick- 
lime, is   obtained  by   exposing  limestone,  or 
chalk,  which  are  carbonates  of  lime,  to  a  red 


ALKALOIDS. 


heat.  Shell-lime  is  got  in  the  same  manner 
from  the  shells  of  the  oyster  and  other  shell- 
fish. "When  sprinkled  with  water,  heat  is  gen- 
erated, and  the  lime,  combining  with  the  water, 
crumbles  down  into  a  powder,  which  is  hy- 
drate of  lime,  or  slacked  lime. 

3995.  Tests  for  Lime.  The  alkaline 
carbonates,  phosphates,  oxalates,  and  sul- 
phates, occasion  white  precipitates  in  solutions 
of  lime.  The  precipitates  occasioned  by  the 
first  three  tests  are  soluble  in  dilute  nitric  or 
muriatic  acid ;  that  by  the  last  is  insoluble  in 
those  menstrua,  but  soluble  in  solution  of 
salt,  and  not  reprecipitated  by  dilute  sulphuric 
acid. 

Oxalate  of  ammonia  or  potassa  is  the  most 
delicate  test  of  lime.  If  the  substance  under 
examination  be  a  solid,  dissolve  it  in  muriatic 
acid,  filter,  evaporate  to  dryness,  redissolve 
in  water,  and  test  as  above.  All  the  soluble 
salts  of  lime  tinge  the  flame  of  alcohol  of  an 
orange  color,  but  this  may  be  confounded 
with  the  color  produced  by  the  salts  of 
strontia. 


Substances  of  a  vegeta- 
^t*.  ble  origin,  analogous  to  the  alkaline 
bases,  iu  which  the  medicinal  activity  of  the 
plants  iii  which  they  are  found  appear  to  re- 
side. ( Cooleij. )  Among  the  natural  organic 
bases,  or  alkaloids,  the  following  are  the 
principal,  as  enumerated  by  Professor  Fownes. 

3997.  Morphine  or  Morphia.    This  is 
the  chief   active   principle   of   opium.     The 
morphia  of  commerce  is  a  white  crystalline 
powder;    but  when   crystallized  in   alcohol, 
forms    brilliant,   prismatic,   transparent,   and 
colorless  crystals,  which  turn  nitric  acid  red. 
In  powder,    unlike   strychnine,  it  is  fusible 
without  decomposition,  and  strongly  decom- 
poses iodic   acid.    It  is  insoluble  in  ether, 
scarcely  soluble  in  water,  and  freely  soluble 
in  alcohol.     Potassa  and  ammonia  precipi- 
tate morphia  from  the  solutions  of  its  salts. 

3998.  To   Find   the   Percentage  of 
Morphia  in  Opium.     An  excellent  process 
for  ascertaining   the   quality  of  opium  is  to 
boil  au  infusion  of  100  grains  opium  with  25 
grains  quicklime,  made  into  a  milk  with  wa- 
ter; to  filter  while  hot,  saturate  with  a  dilute 
hydrochloric    acid,    and    to    precipitate    the 
morphia  by   ammonia.     After  expelling  any 
excess  of  ammonia  by  heat,  the  precipitate  is 
collected,  dried,  and  weighed;  the  weight  in 
grains  will  nearly  represent  the  percentage  of 
morphia  in  the  opium. 

3999.  Narcotine.     An    alkaloid  found 
in  the  insoluble  portion  of  opium,  and  forms 
small,  colorless,  brilliant  crystals,  which  give 
to  nitric  acid  an  orange  tint. 

4000.  Codeine,   or  Codeia.     Obtained 
from  hydrochlorate  of  morphia,  in  colorless, 
transparent,  eight-sided  crystals,  which  do  not 
color  nitric  acid  red. 

4001.  Thebaine,   or  Paramorphine. 
This  is  also  obtained  from  opium  iu  colorless 
needles  like  those  of  narcotine.     It  does  not 
color  nitric  acid  red,  and  is  much  less  soluble 
in  water  thau  codeine. 

4002.  Cinchonine,  or  Cinchonia.    This 
is  the  active  principle  of  Peruvian  bark,  con- 
tained in  the  largest  quantity  in  the  pale  bark. 
It  crystallizes  in  small,  brilliant,  transparent, 


375 


four-sided  prisms,  insoluble  in  ether.  Cin- 
chonicine  and  tinchonidine  aro  other  varie- 
ties of  this  alkaloid. 

4003.  Quinine,  or  Quinia.  This  is  also 
obtained  from  Peruvian  bark,  being  found 
in  largest  quantity  in  the  yellow  variety  of 
the  bark.  It  crystallizes  in  small  white  nee- 
dles. It  may  be  distinguished  from  cinchonine 
by  the  form  of  its  crystals,  and  its  solubility 
in  ether. 

4004.  Quinoidine,  or  Amorphous  Quinine, 
is  a  yellow  or  brown  resinous  mass,  identical 
in  composition  with  quinine.     Quinicine  and 
quinidinc  are  also  varieties  of  quinine.     (See 
Nos.  4025,  <fc.) 

4005.  Strychnine,  or  Strychnia.   This 
is  an  alkaloid  contained  in  nux  vomica,  and 
some  other  vegetable  substances.     Crystal- 
lizes in  small,  brilliant,  eight-sided  crystals, 
insoluble  in  absolute  alcohol,   and    slightly 
soluble  in  water.     It  suffers  decomposition 
on  fusing,   and   does    not    decompose    iodic 
acid ;  it  may  be  thus  distinguished  from  mor- 
phine. 

4006.  Brucine,    or    Brucia.      Is    ob- 
tained from  the  same  sources  as  strychnine, 
and  resembles  it  in  many  respects,  but  is 
readily  soluble  in  all  strengths  of  alcohol,  and 
insoluble  in  water.    Brucine  turns  nitric  acid 
red,  which  becomes  violet  on  the  addition  of 
protochloride  of  tin. 

4007.  Veratrine,  or   Veratria.     The 
alkaloid  principle  of  cevadilla  seeds,  and  of 
white  hellebore.    "When  pure,  it  is  a  white 
powder ;  but  as  usually  met  with,  the  powder 
is  yellowish  or  greenish-white,  insoluble  in 
water. 

4008.  Colchicine.     Extracted  from  the 
seeds  of  the  common  meadow  saffron ;  has 
similar  properties  to  veratrine,  but  is  crystal- 
line, and  soluble  in  water. 

4009.  Harmaline.     A  substance  form- 
ing   yellowish    prismatic    crystals,   obtained 
from  the  Peganum  Harmala,  a  plant  abound- 
ing in    southern   Eussia.      By    oxidation  it 
yields  Harmine,  a  fine  red  dye-stuff,  also  pos- 
sessing basic  properties. 

4010.  Theine,  or  Caffeine.     This  is  an 
alkaloid  principle  extracted  from  tea,  coffee, 
Paraguay  tea,  <fec.     It  forms  in  tufts  of  white 
silky  needles. 

4011.  Theobromine.     A  white  crystal- 
line powder  obtained    from  the    cacao-nuts 
from  which  chocolate  is  prepared.     Its  proper- 
ties are  somewhat  similar  to  theine. 

4012.  Xanthine.      A    white   powder, 
which  may  be  obtained  from  guanine,  which 
it  resembles  in  its  properties.    It  dissolves 
easily  in  ammonia  or  potash. 

4013.  Creatine.     This    alkaloid,   called 
by  some  Icreatine,  is  a  crystallizable  substance 
obtained  from  the  juice  of  the  muscular  fibre 
of  animals.    It  forms  brilliant,  colorless  pris- 
matic crystals.     Creatine  is  a  neutral  body 
combining  with  neither  acids  nor  alkalies. 
By  the  action  of  strong  acids  it  is  converted 
into    creatinine,    a   powerful    organic    base, 
with  a  strong  alkaline  reaction,  and  forming 
crystallizable  salts  with  acids.    Creatine,  treat- 
ed by  boiling  with  a  solution  of  baryta,  pro- 
duces Sarcosine. 

4014.  Sarcine.     This  base  is  a  constitu- 
ent of   the   flesh  of   animals.     It  forms   in 
delicate  white  microscopic  needles,   soluble 


376 


ALKALOIDS. 


with  difficulty  iu  cold  "water,  easily  in  boiling 
water.  It  is  obtained  from  the  same  source 
as  creatine.  (See  No.  4013.) 

4015.  Guanine.     A  base  obtained  from 
guano.    It  is  a  colorless,  crystalline  powder, 
insoluble  in  water,  alcohol,  ether  or  ammonia. 
By  treating  guanine  with  muriatic  acid  and 
chlorate  of  potassium,  guanidine  is  obtained 
in  colorless  crystals,  readily  soluble  in  water 
and  alcohol. 

Guanine,  Sarcine,  and  Xanthine  greatly  re- 
semble one  another. 

4016.  Berberine.    An  alkaloid  crystal- 
lizing in  fine  yellow  needles  slightly  soluble 
in  water,  extracted  from  Barberry  root. 

4017.  Pipeline.     An  alcoholic  extract 
of  pepper  forming  colorless  or  yellowish  crys- 
tals.   Insoluble  in  water. 

4018.  Conine,  or  Conia.   An  alkaloid  ex- 
tract of  hemlock,  in  the  form  of  a  volatile, 
oily  liquid.    It  evolves  an  odor  of  hemlock 
on  being  moistened  with  a  solution  of  po- 
tassa. 

4019.  Nicotine,   or  Nicotia.    This  is 
also  a  volatile,  oily,  acrid  liquid,  soluble  in 
water,   ether,   alcohol,   and    oils.     Nicotine, 
moistened  with  a  solution  of  potassa,  evolves 
a  strong  odor  of  tobacco. 

4020.  Sparteine.    An  alkaloid  obtained 
from    broom,    also    a  volatile,    oily    liquid. 
Conine,  nicotine,  and  sparteine  are  similar  in 
character,   being  very  poisonous,   possessing 
strong  alkaline  reaction,  and  forming  crystal- 
liable  salts  with  the  acids. 

4021.  Salicine.      A  white,   crystalline 
substance,  found  in  the  bark  and  leaves  of 
several  kinds  of  poplar  and  willow ;  but  most 
abundantly  in  the  white  willow  and  the  as- 
pen.   It  is  obtained  by  the  careful  evapora- 
tion of  an  infusion  in  cold  water. 

4022.  To  Obtain  Alkaloids.     Some  of 
these  substances  require  special  processes  for 
extracting  them  from  the  substances  in  which 
they  are  found,  but  the  following  methods 
will  apply  for  general  purposes : 

"When  the  base  is  insoluble  in  water,  non- 
volatile, and  existing  in  the  plant  in  an  insol- 
uble form.  Boil  or  macerate  the  bruised 
plant  in  water  acidulated  with  muriatic  acid, 
niter,  neutralize  the  acid  with  an  alkali,  (am- 
monia, lime,  or  magnesia),  and  collect  the 
precipitate,  which  must  be  purified  by  reso- 
lution in  dilute  acid,  digestion  with  tiuimal 
charcoal,  and  subsequent  crystallization  or 
precipitation  by  an  alkali ;  or  the  first  precip- 
itate may  bo  purified  by  dissolving  it  repeat- 
edly in  alcohol. 

When  the  base  is  insoluble  in  water,  and 
non-volatile,  but  existing  in  the  plant  in  a 
soluble  state.  Boil  or  macerate  in  hot  water 
as  before ;  filter  and  precipitate  by  adding  an 
alkali ;  purify  as  last. 

When  the  base  is  soluble  in  water,  and 
non-volatile.  Make  an  infusion  with  a  dilute 
acid  (muriatic);  concentrate  by  a  gentle 
heat ;  treat  the  liquor  with  potassa  and 
ether  (conjointly) ;  decant  and  evaporate. 

When  the  base  is  both  soluble  iu  water  and 
volatile.  The  vegetable  or  its  extract  may 
be  mixed  with  potassa  and  distilled;  the 
product,  neutralized  with  oxalic  or  sulphuric 
acid,  carefully  evaporated  to  dryuess,  and 
digested  in  alcohol,  and  this  solution  agitated 
with  potassa  and  ether;  the  ethereal  solu- 


tion thus  formed,  if  carefully  evaporated, 
leaves  the  base  nearly  pure.  It  may  be 
further  purified  by  cautious  distillation. 

4023.  Tests  for  Distinguishing  Al- 
kaloids.    Perchloride  of  gold  is  a  decisive 
test  of  certain  vegetable  alkalies.     The  follow- 
ing are  the  colors  of  the  precipitates  which  it 
produces  with  the  salts  of  the  annexed  alkalies 
dissolved    in    water ;    quinine,    buff-colored ; 
cinchonine,    sulphur-yellow;    morphine,    yel- 
low, then  bluish,   and  lastly,  violet;  in  this 
last  state  the  gold  is  reduced,  and  the  precip- 
itate is  insoluble  in  water,  alcohol,  the  caustic 
alkalies,  aud  sulphuric,  nitric,  or  hydrochloric 
acids;  brucine,  milk,  coffee,  and  then  choco- 
late-brown ;  strychnine,  canary -yellow ;  rara- 
trine,   slightly    greenish-yellow.      All    these 
precipitates,  with  the   exception  mentioned, 
are  very  soluble  in  alcohol,  insoluble  in  ether, 
and  slightly  soluble  in  water.    Among  the 
reactions  of  chloride  of  gold,  there  are  two 
which    appear    to  be   especially  important: 
they  are  those  which   occur  with  morphine 
and  brucine;  these  are  sufficiently  marked  to 
prevent  these  alkalies  from  being  mistaken  for 
each  other,  and  also  yield  pretty  good  char- 
acteristics   for    distinguishing   brucine    from 
strychnine. 

4024.  Alkaloids  Detected  by  Picric 
Acid.     Eager  has  found  that  this  acid  pre- 
cipitates various  alkaloids  from   their  solu- 
tions, such  as  brucine,  strychnine,  veratrine, 
quinine,  cinchonine,    and   some    alkaloids  of 
opiurn.    Morphine  and  atropine,  however,  are 
precipitated  only  from  neutral  and  concentra- 
ted solutions,   and  the  precipitate  dissolves 
pretty  easily  in  water.     Glucosides,  casein, 
and  pseudo-morphine  resist  the  action  of  the 
picric  acid. 

4025.  Quinometry.      The   method  of 
estimating  the  quantity  of  quinine  in  cinchona 
bark  and  the  salts  obtained  from   it.  •    The 
following  tests  give  very  accurate  results  in 
examining  the  bark ;  and  the  salts  are  tested 
in  the  same  way,  but  the  result  is  not  quite 
so  accurate,  as  it  includes  any  quinidinc  (sec 
No.  4028)  that  may  be  present  in  the  quinine ; 
and  makes,  therefore,  the  apparent  richness 
of    the    sample    greater    than    it  really    is. 
(Cooley.) 

4026.  Test  for  the  Strength  of  Qui- 
nine.  Make  a  decoction  of  100  grains  of  bark 
in  2  fluid  ounces  distilled  water ;  filter,  and 
precipitate  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  a  con- 
centrated solution  of  carbonate  of  soda.    Heat 
the  fluid  until  the  precipitate  is   dissolved ; 
and  when  cold,  dry  aud  weigh  it.     It  should 
weigh  2  grains  or  more,  and  dissolve  entirely 
in  a  solution  of  oxalic  acid.     To  render  the 
result  strictly  accurate,  the   bark  should  be 
exhausted  with  ether,  and   the   mixed  solu- 
tions evaporated.     Salts,  of  quinine  may  be 
tested  in  the  Fame  manner.     (Cooley.) 

4027.  Test   for  the    Percentage   of 
Quinine  in  Bark,  &c.     Exhaust  100  grains 
of  bark  with  acidulated  water;  filter  the  so- 
lution, and  render  it  alkaline  with  liquor  of 
potassa;  next    agitate   it  with   about  $  its 
volume  of  chloroform,  and  allow  it  to  repose 
a  short  time ;  the  chloroform,  ho-lding  the  al- 
kaloid in  solution,  sinks  to  the  bottom  of  the 
vessel  in  a  distinct  stratum,  from  which  the 
supernataut  liquid  must  be  separated  by  de- 
cantation ;  the  chloroformic  solution,  either 


GAS. 


377 


at  once  or  after  being  washed  with  a  little 
cold  water,  is  allowed  to  evaporate,  and  the 
weight  of  the  residuum  in  grains  gives  the 
percentage  of  richness  of  the  sample.  Ether 
may  be  used  instead  of  chloroform,  but  the 
ethereal  solution  will  form  the  upper  stratum 
instead  of  the  lower.  This  test  is  also  appli- 
cable to  the  salts  of  quinine,  but  with  restric- 
tions referred  to  in  Ko.  4025.  (Rcbourdain.) 

4028.  Quinidine.     An  alkaloid  found  in 
quinia  which  has  been  prepared  by  precipita- 
tion.     It  is  distinguished  from  quinine  by 
not  striking  a  green  color  when  treated  with 
chlorine    followed  by  ammonia,   as  quinine 
does.     In  medicinal  character  its  powers  are 
comparatively  feeble.     It  is  present  in  nearly 
all    the    ordinary    sulphate    (disulphate)    of 
quinine  as  sold,  either  through  careless  pre- 
paration or  wilful  adulteration,  and  is  not  de- 
tected by,  and  consequently  included  in,  the 
results   of  the  usual  tests  for  quinine.     (See 
Nos.  4025,   ^-c.)     Cinchonine  is  another  fee- 
bler alkaloid  also  found  in  quinia. 

4029.  Tire's  Test  for  the  Presence 
of  ftuinidine  or  Cinchonine  in  Quinine. 
This  test  is  applicable  to  quinine  salts  gener- 
ally, but  more  especially  refers   to  the   sul- 
phate (disulphate)  of  quinine.   Place  10  grains 
of  the  salt  into  a  strong  test  tube,  furnished 
with  a  tightly-fitting  cork ;  add  10  drops  of  a 
miKturo  of  1  part  sulphuric  acid  and  5  parts 
water,  and  15  drops  water,  accelerating  so- 
lution by  a  gentle  heat.    When  dissolved  and 
entirely  cooled,  add  60  drops  officinal  sul- 
phuric   ether  with  20   drops  spirits  of  am- 
monia,  close  the  test  tube  with  the  thumb, 
and  shake  it  well ;  cork  the  tube  closely  and 
shake  gently  from  time  to  time,  so  that  the 
bubbles  of  air  may  readily  enter  the  layer  of 
ether.     If  the  salt  be  free  from,  or  contain  no 
greater  proportion  than  10  per  cent,  of  quini- 
dine,  it  will  be  entirely  dissolved;  while  on 
the  surface  of  contact  between  the  two  strata 
of  fluid,  the  mechanical  impurities  only  will 
be  separated.     Prom  this  it  appears  that  10 
grains   of  the  salt  may  contain  1  grain  of 
quiuidiue,  and  still  a  complete  solution  take 
place ;    but,  in  this  case,  the  quinidine  will 
shortly  begin  to  crystallize  in  a  layer  of  ether. 
If  more   than   10  per  cent,  of  quinidine  be 
present,  there  will  be  found  an  insoluble  pre- 
cipitate between  the  strata  of  the  fluid.     If 
this  be  quinidine,  it  will  be  dissolved  by  the 
addition    of    ether,    while    Cinchonine    (see 
No.  4002)  will  be  unaffected. 


Gas.  A  general  term  applied  to  all 
aeriform  or  permanently  elastic  fluids, 
excepting  the  compound  of  oxygen  and  nitro- 
gen constituting  the  atmosphere,  which  is 
distinguished  from  the  other  gaseous  bodies 
by  the  name  of  air.  (Sec  No.  4072.)  Gases 
for  chemical  purposes  arc  usually  generated 
in  a  bottle  of  glass  or  other  appropriate  ma- 
terial ;  or,  where  the  application  of  heat  is 
necessary,  in  a  retort.  A  connecting  tube  of 
convenient  shape  is  fitted  air-tight  into  the 
neck  or  beak  of  the  generating  vessels, 
through  which  the  gas  is  led  into  receiving 
vessels.  These  are  usually  bottles,  with  ac- 
curately fitting  stoppers. 


4031.  Pne.umatic  Trough.     A  vessel 
j  or  tank  nearly  filled   with  water,   provided 

with  a  shelf  placed  1  or  2  inches  below  the 
surface.  The  receiving  bottles  are  first  im- 
mersed in  and  filled  with  the  water  and  then 
!  placed  neck  downwards  on  the  shelf,  which 
is  furnished  with  holes  to  allow  of  the  passage 
of  the  gas  into  the  receivers  from  the  connect- 
ing tube,  the  end  of  which  is  brought  imme- 
diately under  one  of  the  holes.  For  gases 
which  are  easily  absorbed  by  water,  mercury 
or  some  other  fluid  is  necessary  in  place  of 
the  water.  As  the  gas  ascends  into  the  re- 
ceiving bottle,  the  water  is  displaced ;  when 
full,  and  the  gas  begins  to  escape,  the  bottle 
should  be  closed  with  a  greased  stopper,  and 
removed  from  the  trough. 

4032.  To  Find  the  Weight  of  a  Gas. 
Multiply  the  specific  gravity  of  the  gas  by 
309£  (the  weight  in  grains  of  1000  cubic  inches 
of  air),  the  product  will  be  the  weight  of  1000 
cubic  inches  of  the  gas. 

4033.  To  Prevent  the  Escape  of  Gas 
from  India-Rubber  Tubing.     India-rub- 
ber tubing  is  slightly  permeable  to  gas.     The 
amount  which  escapes  through  the  walls  of 
the  tube  is  very  small ;  but  it  may  be  advis- 
able sometimes  to  render  an  escape  impossi- 
ble.    This  can  be  done  by  giving  the  tubing  a 
thin  coating  of  a  varnish  made  by  dissolving 
1*  parts  molasses  and  2  parts  gum-arabic  in 
7  parts  of  white  wine  and  3£  parts  strong  al- 
cohol.    The  molasses  and  gum  must  first  be 
dissolved  in  the  white  wine,  and  the  alcohol 
must  be  aclded  very  slowly,  constantly  stir- 
ring the  mixture,  or  the  gum  will  be  thrown 
down. 

4034.  Oxygen.      An  elementary   gas, 
colorless,  tasteless,  odorless,  and  incombusti- 
ble, having  a  specific  gravity  of  about  1.057. 
Oxygen  enters  largely  into  the  composition  of 
all  nature ;  being  a  constituent  part  of  the  at- 
mosphere (see  No.  4072),  upon  which  it  confers 
the  power  of  supporting  life  and  combustion ; 
and  water,  present  more  or  less  through  the 
whole  world,  contains  about  88  per  cent,  by 
weight,  or  33  per  cent,  by  volume,  of  oxygen ; 
it  constitutes  also  a  portion  of  the  majority 
of  the  mineral  bodies  that  form  the  bulk  of 
our  globe.    It  is  a  powerful  supporter  of  com- 
bustion, and  its  presence  is  essential  to  the 
existence  of  animal  and  vegetable  life.     Oxy- 
gen unites  with  certain  other  bodies  in  fixed 
proportions  to  form  a  class  of  acids  distin- 
guished as   oxygen  acids  or  oxacids.    (See 
No.  3853.) 

4035.  To  Obtain  Oxygen  Gas.    Heat 
in  a  retort  or  flask,  finely  powdered  chlorate 
of  potassa,  mixed  with  about  one-fourth  its 
weight  of  black  oxide  of  manganese.     The 
gas  must  be  collected  by  attaching  a  tube  to 
the  flask,  and  passed  into  a  receiving  bottle 
in  a  pneumatic  trough.     (See  No.  4031.) 

Or :  Take  chloride  of  potassa,  or  red  oxide 
of  mercury,  expose  it  to  the  heat  of  a  spirit- 
lamp,  in  a  suitable  vessel,  and  collect  the 
gas. 

4036.  Oxygen  Gas  from  Bleaching 
Powder.     Oxygen  gas  can  be  readily  pre- 
pared  by   boiling  bleaching  powder   (hypo- 
chlorite  of  lime)  and  nitrate  of  cobalt  in  a 
flask.    Make  a  clear  solution  of  the  powder  in 
water,  put  it  into  any  convenient  flask  pro- 
vided with  a  perforated  cork  and  tube,  and 


378 


GAS. 


pour  in  a  few  drops  of  a  solution  of  nitrate  or 
chloride  of  cobalt,  and  set  it  to  boil.  The 
gas,  as  it  is  evolved,  is  collected  in  a  receiving 
bottle.  (See  No.  4031.) 

4037.  To  Obtain   Oxygen  "Without 
Heat.     According  to  M.   Boettger,   oxygen 
can  be  obtained  in  a  very  pure  state  by  em- 
ploying binoxide  of  barium  and  peroxide  of 
lead.     Take  equal  parts  of  these  substances 
and  pour  on  •weak  nitric  acid;  the  reaction 
commences  immediately,  and  the  gas  can  be 
collected  as  usual  over  cold  water.     (See  No. 
4031.) 

4038.  Pure  Oxygen  for  Inhalation. 
Eliot  recommends  for  the  preparation  of  oxy- 
gen gas,  to  be  used  in  medicine,  the  employ- 
ment of  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  peroxide 
of  barium  and  peroxide  of  lead.    By  pouring 
dilute  nitric  acid  upon  these  salts,  there  is  a 
violent  effervescence  and  a  copious  evolution 
of  pure  oxygen  gas.     For  greater  security, 
the  gas  may  be  afterwards  washed  in  water. 
As  very  little  heat  is  necessary,  the  operation 
can  be  performed  in  any  stout  bottle,  thus 
dispensing  with  the  usual  retorts.     For  great 
purity,  the  first  portion  of  gas  that  evolves 
should  be  allowed  to  escape,  as  it  contains 
the  air  which  was  in  the  apparatus. 

4039.  To  Obtain  Oxygen  on  the 
Large  Scale.  Nitre  is  exposed  to  a  dull  red 
heat  in  an  iron  retort  or  gun  barrel ;  1  pound 
of  nitre  thus  yields  about  1200  cubic  inches 
of  oxygen,  slightly  contaminated  with  nitro- 
gen. (Ure.) 

4040.  Tests  for  Oxygen.     It  is  distin- 
guished from  other  gases  by  yielding  nothing 
but  pure  water  when  mixed  with  twice  its 
volume  of  hydrogen  and  exploded,  or  when  a 
jet  of  hydrogen  is  burned  in  it.    A  recently 
extinguished  taper,  with  the  wick  still  red 
hot,  instantly  inflames  when  plunged  into 
this  gas.    A  small  spiral  piece  of  iron  wire, 
ignited  at  the  point  and  suddenly   plunged 
into  a  jar  of  oxygen,  bums  with  great  bril- 
liancy and  rapidity. 

4041.  Hydrogen.    A  gaseous  element, 
colorless,   combustible,   and  the   lightest    of 
ponderable  bodies,  its  specific  gravity  being 
only  .06935.     It  is  a  constituent  part  (about 
12  per  cent,  by  weight,  and  67  per  cent,  by 
volume)  of  water.    According  to  Dumas,  "it 
is  a  gaseous  metal,  as  mercury  is  a  liquid  met- 
al." It  forms  an  ingredient  in  all  bodies  that 
possess  the  power  of  burning  with  flame ;  it 
burns  with  a  pale  blue  flame,  and,  in  combi- 
nation with  carbon,  constitutes  the  illuminat- 
ing gas    in  general  use.      In  contact  with 
spongy  platinum  it  inflames  spontaneously ; 
and,  from  its  extreme  lightness,  is  the  best 
means  employed  for  inflating  balloons.    It  is 
one  of  the  most  useful  elements  in  the  ma- 
terial world.      Hydrogen  forms,  with  other 
bodies,  a  class  of  acids  called  hydrogen  acids 
or  hydracids.     (See  No.  3853.) 

4042.  To    Obtain    Hydrogen    Gas. 
Hydrogen  gas  is  readily  procured  by  pouring 
on  fragments   of  zinc,   in  a  glass  bottle,    or 
flask  with  a  bent  tube,  or  retort,  some  diluted 
sulphuric  acid  (  1  measure  of  strong  acid  to  5 
of  water).     It  may  be  collected  over  water. 
If  zinc  be  not  at  hand,  fine  iron  wire,  or  the 
turnings  or  filings  of  iron,  may  be  substituted 
for  it.     To  procure  gas   of  great  purity,  dis- 
tilled zinc  must  be  used,  and  it  is  advisable  to 


lass  the  gas  first  through  alcohol,  and  then 
;hrough  a  concentrated  solution  of  pure  po- 
;assa.  Care  must  be  taken  that  all  the  air  has 
jeen  driven  out  of  each  vessel  before  any 
ight  is  applied,  or  an  explosion  will  ensue. 

4043.  Cheap  Method    of  Obtaining 
Hydrogen.    Take  quicklime,  slack  it,  let  it 

ool  and  crumble  into  a  dry  hydrate ;  then 
mix  it  with  charcoal,  coke,  or  peat,  and  heat 
in  a  retort.  The  hydrate  of  lime  (slacked  lime) 
nves  up  the  water  that  was  used  in  slacking 
t,  and  becomes  quicklime.  The  water  is  de- 
iomposed  into  hydrogen  and  carbonic  acid,  and 
;hese  two  gases  can  be  separated  by  passing 
them  through  water,  or  the  carbonic  acid  may 
be  economized  by  employing  it  in  the  manu- 
facture of  bicarbonates.  The  quicklime  can 
be  again  slacked  and  used  as  often  as  required. 

4044.  Hydrogen  Gas  for  Balloons. 
For  this  purpose  hydrogen  may  be  obtained 
by  pouring  slightly  diluted  muriatic  acid  upon 
an  equal  weight  of  zinc,  in  a  covered  vessel 
having  a  small  tap  or  stop-cock  in  the  top  for 
filling  the  balloons.     The  vessel  should  be 
made  of  lead,  to  prevent  corrosion. 

4045 .  To  Estimate  the  Buoyant  Pow- 
er of  Balloons.     It  will  take  about  12  cu- 
bic feet  of  the  hydrogen  gas,  used  for  infla- 
ting balloons  to  balance  or  suspend  1  pound 
in  the  air.    The,  rule  used  for  balloons  is  as 
follows:     The  specific  gravity  of  the  gas  com- 
pared with  the  air  is   .0693 ;    1  cubic  foot  of 
air  weighs  527.04  grains,  the  cubic  foot  of  gas 
weighs  36.93  grains ;  and  therefore  there  are 
527.04-36.93=490.11  grains  difference  between 
the  air  and  gas,  in  one  cubic  foot.      Multiply 
this  difference  by  the  number  of  cubic  feet  in 
the  balloon,  and  divide  by  7,000.     This  will 
give  the  capacity  or  buoyancy  of  the  balloon, 
in  pounds ;  then  subtract  the  weight  of  the 
balloon  and  car. 

4046.  For  Obtaining   Hydrogen  in 
Quantities.     Place  iron  wire  in  a  gun- bar- 
rel, or  a  porcelain  tube,  open  at  both  ends,  to 
one    of  which    attach  a  retort    containing 
water,  and  to  the  other  a  bent  tube,  connect- 
ed with  a  pneumatic  trough.     The  gun-barrel 
must  now  be  heated  to  redness,  and  the  water 
in  the  retort  brought  into  a  state  of   brisk 
ebullition,  when  the  vapor  will  be  decompos- 
ed, the  oxygen  being  absorbed  by  the  iron, 
and  the  hydrogen  escaping  into  the  gas  re- 
ceiver.    The  gas  evolved  may  be  purified,  if 
desired,  by  passing  it  through  alcohol,    <fec. 
(  See  No.  4042.) 

4047.  Tests  For  Hydrogen.     Hydro- 
gen is  recognized  by  its  combustibility  ;  by  the 
pale  color  of  its  flame ;  by  producing  water 
only  when  burnt  in  air  or  oxygen ;  by  extin- 
guishing the  flame  of  other  bodies ;  and  by 
exploding  when  mixed  with  half  its  weight  of 
oxygen  and  fired.     (  Coole.y.) 

4048.  Carburetted  Hydrogen.     There 
are  two  leading  gaseous  compounds  of  carbon 
and  hydrogen,  known  as   carburetted  hjTdro- 
gen,  and  distinguished  as  light  and  heavy. 

The  light  carburetted  hydrogen  is  often  abun- 
dantly disengaged  in  coal  mines,  and  called 
methane,  and  fire  damp.  It  consists  of  2 
equivalents  of  hydrogen  and  1  of  carbon,  and 
burns  with  a  yellowish  flame.  This  gas  also 
escapes  in  bubbles  from  the  mud  on  the  bot- 
tom of  stagnant  pools,  combined  with  car- 
bonic acid,  from  which  it  may  be  freed  by 


GAS. 


379 


passing  through  milk  of  lime,  or  a  solution 
of  caustic  potassa.  (  Cooley. )  It  has  a  spe- 
cific gravity  of  about  .559.  (  Foivnes.) 

Heavy  carburetted  hydrogen  is  a  combina- 
tion of  2  equivalents  of  carbon  and  2  of  hydro- 
gen (  4  carbon  and  4  hydrogen — Booth ),  and 
burns  with  a  white  luminous  flame ;  it  is  a 
little  lighter  than  air,  having  a  specific  gravity 
of  .981.  It  is  also  called  Ethine. 

4049.  To  Obtain  Light  Carburetted 
Hydrogen.      When  2  parts  crystallized  ace- 
tate of  soda,  2  parts  dry  hydrate  of  potassa, 
and  3  parts  powdered  quicklime,  are  strongly 
heated  in  a  flask  or  retort,  this  gas  is  abund- 
antly evolved,   and    may  be  collected  over 
water.     (See  No.  4031.) 

4050.  To  Obtain  Heavy  Carburetted 
Hydrogen.     Heavy  carburetted  hydrogen  is 
prepared  by  heating  in  a  retort  1  part  of  alco- 
hol with  6  or  7  of  oil  of  vitriol  until  it  black- 
ens, and  conducting  the  mixed  gases  through 
milk  of  lime,   which  retains  the  sulphurous 
acid ;  and  afterwards  through  oil  of  vitriol, 
which  absorbs  water,  ether,  and  alcohol.    This 
may  also  be  prepared  by  passing  the  vapor 
of  boiling  alcohol  through  a  mixture  of  10 
parts  oil  of  vitriol  and  3  parts  water,  heated 
to  ebullition  (320°  to  330°  Fahr.),  and  purify- 
ing the  vapor  as  before. 

4051.  Olefiant  Gas.     A  name  given  to 
heavy  carburetted  hydrogen,  arising  from  its 
producing,  in  combination  with  chlorine,  an 
oily -looking  liquid.     It  is  the  presence  of  this 
gas  which   gives  the  illuminating  power  to 
coal-gas,   which  is   a  combination  of  light, 
heavy,  and  other  hydrocarbons. 

4052.  Sulphuretted   Hydrogen.      A 
compound  of  hydrogen  and  sulphur ;  a  color- 
less gas,  possessing  a  powerful  odor  of  rotten 
eggs ;  specific  gravity  1.171 ;  it  is  absorbed  by 
water,  forming  liquid   sulphuretted  hydrogen, 
or  hydrosulphuric  acid.     It  is  a  powerful  poi- 
son.    Being  considerably  denser  than  air,  it 
may  be  poured  from  its  generating  bottle  into 
cavities,  a  scheme  successfully  employed  by 
M.  Thenard  to  destory  rats  in  their  holes,  a 
method  equally  applicable  to  other  vermin. 
It  forms  saline  compounds  with  the  alkalies, 
and  the  earths  termed  HYDROSULPHATES  or 
HYDROSTTLPHURETS,  and  it  precipitates  metallic 
sulphurets  from  solutions  of  most  of  the  niet- 
als ;  hence  its  value  as  a  test.     Air  containing 
Tnr&orr  part  of   pure  hydrogen  will   sensibly 
blacken   a  piece   of  white   paper,  moistened 
with  a  solution  of  acetate   of  lead.     Sulphu- 
retted hydrogen  is  the  active  ingredient  in  the 
sulphurous  mineral  waters. 

4053.  To  Obtain  Sulphuretted  Hy- 
drogen.    Mix  together  2  parts  of  iron  filings 
with  1  of  sulphur  into  a  thin  pap  with  water, 
and  heat  it  gently  in  an  iron  vessel.     Combi- 
nation takes  place    with  the   evolution    of 
heat  forming  sulphuret  of  iron.      Cover  it  till 
cold.    On  this  compound,  contained  in  a  glass 
bottle,  or  other   suitable   apparatus,  pour  sul- 
phuric acid  previously  diluted  with  7  parts  of 
water.      If  more  acid  bo  afterwards  required, 
dilute  the  strong  acid  with  only  4  of  water. 
The  resulting  gas  is  absorbed  by  water,  and 
is    therefore    collected,    in    preference,   over 
mercury.    This  is  the  plan  commonly  adopted 
in  the  laboratory. 

To  obtain  it  pure,  mix  1  part  finely  powder- 
ed tersulphuret  of  antimony,  and  5  parts 


strong  muriatic  acid,  in  a  small  glass  retort  or 
flask :  apply  the  heat  of  a  spirit  lamp,  and- 
collect  the  gas  over  mercury.  (See  JVo.  4031.) 

4054.  Tests  for  Sulphuretted    Hy- 
drogen.    Sulphuretted  hydrogen  may  be  re- 
cognized by  the  odor,  and  by  its   blackening 
moist  carbonate  of  lead,  and  tarnishing  sil- 
ver, and  also  by  its  precipitating  arsenious 
acid  yellow,   tartar  emetic  orange,  and   the 
salts  of  lead  black. 

4055.  Phosphuretted  Hydrogen.  This 
is  a  gaseous  combination  of  phosphorus  and 
hydrogen;  colorless,  very  fetid,  slightly  solu- 
ble in  water,  and  burns  with  a  white  flame. 
It  has  a  specific  gravity  of  1.24. 

4056.  To  Obtain  Phosphuretted  Hy- 
drogen.    The  pure  gas  may  be  evolved  by 
gently  heating  hydrated  phosphorus  acid  in  a 
small  retort,  and  collecting  it  by  a  pneumatic 
trough.    (See  No  4031.) 

The  spontaneously  inflammable  variety  of 
this  gas  is  made  by  boiling  phosphorus  with 
solution  of  potash  in  a  small  retort,  the  beak 
of  which  is  kept  under  water  :  as  each  bubble 
of  gas  rises  from  the  water,  it  inflames,  and 
forms  a  ring  of  white  smoke,  which  dilates  as 
it  ascends.  The  spontaneous  inflammability 
of  the  gas,  when  mixed  with  atmospheric  air 
or  oxygen,  renders  caution  necessary  in  its 
preparation. 

4057.  Nitrogen  or  Azote.      An  ele- 
mentary gaseous  body.     Pure  nitrogen  is  a 
colorless,  odorless,  tasteless  gas,  neither  com- 
bustible nor  capable  of  supporting  combustion 
or  respiration.    It  is  neutral  to  test  paper, 
does  not  affect  lime  water,  and  is  only  slightly 
absorbed  by  pure  water.    Liebig  places  its 
specific  gravity  at  0.9722,  Berzelius  at  0.976. 

4058.  Tests  for  Nitrogen.     It  is  rec- 
ognized by  its  purely  negative  qualities,  and 
by  its  forming  nitric  acid  when  mixed  with 
oxygen,  and   exposed  to   the  electric   spark ; 
or  when   a  jet  of  hydrogen  is  burnt  in  the 
mixed  gases.     (Cooley.) 

4059.  To  Obtain  Nitrogen.     Atmos- 
pheric air  may  be  made  to  yield  an  unlimited 
supply  of  nitrogen,  by  exposing  it  to  the  ac- 
tion of  substances  which  combine  with  its 
oxygen.     By  burning  a  small  piece  of  phos- 
phorus, placed  on  a  capsule  floating  on  the 
water  in  a  pneumatic  trough,  under  aT  large 
bell-glass,  and  allowing  it  to  stand  over  the 
water  a  few  hours,  nearly  pure  nitrogen  is  ob- 
tained, which  may  be  further  purified  by  agi- 
tating it  with  solution  of  pure  potassa.     It 
may  be  dried  by  passing  it  through  concentra- 
ted oil  of  vitriol. 

Nitrogen  may  be  evolved  by  passing  chlor- 
ine gas  into  a  solution  of  pure  ammonia,  and 
drying,  as  before,  through  sulphuric  acid. 

Another  plan,  well  recommended,  is  to 
heat  bichromate  of  ammonia  in  a  retort. 
The  evolved  nitrogen  ia  deprived  of  all  aque- 
ous vapor  by  sulphuric  acid  as  above,  or  by 
letting  it  stand  over  fused  chloride  of  cal- 
cium. 

4060.  Protoxide  of  Nitrogen.      This 
gas  is  also  called  nitrous  oxide,  and  u  largely 
used  by  inhalation,  under  the  name  of  laugh- 
ing gas,  to  produce  insensibility  to  pain.     It 
is  colorless,  possesses   an  agreeable  odor,  and 
a  sweetish  taste.      At  45°  Fahr.,  and  under  a 
pressure  of  £0   atmospheres,   it  is  liquid.     Its 
specific  gravity  J3  1.5241 ;  it  supports  combus- 


380 


GAS. 


tion,  and  is  absorbed  by  water.  Its  most  re- 
markable property  is  its  action  on  the  system 
when  inspired.  A  few  deep  inspirations  are 
usually  succeeded  by  a  pleasing  state  of  ex- 
citement, and  a  strong  propensity  to  laughter 
and  muscular  exertion,  which  soon  subside, 
without  being  followed  by  languor  or  depres- 
sion. Its  effects,  however,  vary  with  different 
constitutions. 

4061.  To  Prepare  Laughing1  Gas. 
Evaporate  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  ammonia 
until  a  drop  of  the  fused  mass  placed  on  a 
cold  plate  instantly  solidifies ;  cool,  break  the 
lump  into  pieces,  and  place  it  in  a  stoppered 
bottle.  For  use,  a  portion  is  introduced  into 
a  glass  retort,  and  heat  applied  by  means  of  a 
spirit  lamp.  As  soon  as  the  heat  reaches  480° 
Fahr.,  protoxide  of  nitrogen  is  evolved,  and 
may  bo  collected  in  bladders,  gas  bags,  a  gaso- 
meter, or  in  the  pneumatic  trough  over  warm 
water.  (See  No.  4031.)  Should  white  fumes 
appear  within  the  retort  after  the  evolution  of 
the  gas  has  commenced,  the  heat  should  bo 
lowered,  as,  when  heated  to  about  G00°,  ni- 
trate of  ammonia  explodes  with  violence. 
Nitrous  oxide  may  also  be  made  in  the  same 
way  from  crystallized  nitrate  of  ammonia,  or 
by  exposing  nitric  oxide  for  some  days  over 
iron  filings,  but  it  requires  great  care  in  its 
preparation. 

4062.  Test  for  Pure  Laughing  Gas. 
"When  pure,  it  is  colorless,  has  an  agreeable 
odor,  and  does  not  affect  a  solution  ol  nitrate 
of  silver. 

4063.  Carbonic    Acid.      An    invisible 
acidulous   gas,   formed    by  the  union    cf   1 
equivalent  cf  carbon  with  2  of  oxygen,  having 
a  specific  gravity  of  1.524,  and  highly  soluble 
in  water.     Its  general    properties    and  the 
methods  of  obtaining  it  will  bo  found  in  Nos. 
3193,  &c.     The  application  cf  this  gas  to  the 
purposes  cf  wine-making,  &c.,   is  given  in 
No.  718.    The  methods  for  obtaining  carbonic 
acid  pas  arc  given  in  N"o.  3914. 

4064.  Carbonic    Oxide.      A  colorless, 
neutral  gas,  formed  cf  equal  equivalents  of 
carbon  and  oxygen,  and  has  a  specific  gravity 
of  .913.     It  burns  with  a  pale  blue  flame, 
and  is   even  more   poisonous  than  carbonic 
acid. 

4065.  To    Obtain    Carbonic    Oxide. 
Carbonic  oxide  may  be  obtained  irora  carbonic 
acid  gas  by  passing  the  latter  over  fragments 
of  charcoal  heated  to  redness  in  a  tube  cf  por- 
celain cr  iron. 

Also,  by  treating  binoxalato  cf  potassa 
with  5  or  G  times  its  weight  cf  oil  cf  vitriol 
in  a  glass  retort,  at  a  gentle  heat. 

Equal  weights  cf  chalk  (or  carbonate  of 
soda)  and  iron  filings  (or  charcoal),  strongly 
heated  in  an  iron  retort  or  gun  barrel,  will 
evolve  the  gas  rapidly. 

"Whichever  way  the  gas  io  evolved,  it  must 
be  passed  first  through  a  caustic  alkaline  so- 
lution or  milk  of  lirno,  to  deprive  it  of  car- 
bonic acid,  and  next  over  dried  chloride  of 
calcium,  to  deprive  it  of  moisture.  It  maybe 
collected  either  over  mercury  or  water,  as  the 
latter  absorbs  but  very  little. 

4066.  Sulphurous    Acid.      This  is  a 
gaseous  combination  of  1  equivalent  cf  sulphur 
and  2  of  oxygen,  having  a  specific  gravity  of 
1.45,  and  very  soluble  "in  water,  which  will 
absorb  30  times  its  volume  of  the  gas.     Its 


properties,  preparation,  and  application  to  the 
arts,  will  be  found  in  N" os.  3864,  &c. 

4067.  Ammonia.      A    highly  pungent 
gas  formed  by  the  union  of  1  equivalent  of 
nitrogen  with  three  of  hydrogen.     Its  specific 
gravity  is  .589.     (See  Nos.  3981,  <f  c. )     Double 
salts  of  ammonia  are  sometimes  called  AM- 
MONIURETS.     Thus,  sulphate  or  nitrate  of  cop- 
per precipitated  in  solution  by  ammonia,  and 
the  precipitate  redissolved  by  an  excess  of 
ammonia,   may    be    called    ammoniurets    of 
copper,  but  more  correctly  ammonio-sulphate, 
or  ammonio-nitrate  of  copper. 

4068.  Hydrochloric  Acid.     A  gaseous 
acid  formed  of  equal  equivalents  of  hydrogen 
and  chlorine.     (See  Nos.  3882,  <fc.) 

4069.  Chlorine.     An    elementary    gas, 
of  a  yellowish  green  color,  a  pungent,  suffo- 
cating odor,  and  an  astringent  taste.    Its  spe- 
cific gravity  is  2.47.     Under  a  pressure  of  4 
atmospheres  it  condenses  into  a  yellow  limpid 
liquid.     Its  most  remarkable  properties  are  its 
power  of  destroying  almost  all  animal  and 
vegetable  color,  and  the  putrid  odor  of  decom- 
posing organic  matter.     It  has  a  very  strong 
attraction  for  metals.    "With  bases  chlorine 
forms  CHLORIDES  or  CHLORTJRETS.     (See  No. 
3853.) 

4070.  To  Obtain  Chlorine.     This  gas 
is  obtained,  for  laboratory  use,  &c.,  by  mixing 
together  in  a  glass  flask  or  retort,   strong 
muriatic  acid  with  half  of  its  weight  cf  finely- 
powdered  peroxide  of  manganese.     Or :  Pour 
common  muriatic  acid,  diluted  with  an  equal 
weight  of   water,    upon  half   its  weight  of 
chloride  cf  lime.     Chlorine  gas  is  immediately 
evolved  even  in  the  cold,  but  much  more 
rapidly  on  the  application  cf  a  gentle  heat. 
This  gas  must  bo  collected  in  clean  dry  bot- 
tles by  displacement.     The  tube  conducting 
the  gas  must  reach  to  the  bottom  of  the  bot- 
tle, when  the  chlorine,  being  heavier  than  the 
air,  will  displace  the  latter,  without  mixing 
with  it.     The  bottle  is  known  to  bo  full  by 
the   gas  overflowing   the    mouth,    which    is 
easily  perceived  by  its  green  color.     The  bot- 
tle must  now  be  closed  up  with  an  accurately 
fitting  stopper,   previously  greased,   and  an 
empty  one  put  ia  its  place,  which  is  subse- 
quently treated  in  like  manner.     To  free  the 
gas  entirely  from  muriatic   acid,  it  may  bo 
passed  through  water;  and  to  render  it  dry, 
it  may  bo  passed  over  dry  chloride  cf  calcium. 
Chlorine  gas  may  also  bo  collected  over  a 
saturated   solution   cf   common   salt  in    the 
pneumatic  trough,  if  the  presence  cf  moist- 
ure be  no  objection.     (See  JVo.  40C1.) 

4071.  Tests  for  Chlorine.     This  gas  is 
readily  distinguished  frcin  other  gases  by  its 
color,   odor,   and  bleaching   properties.      Its 
aqueous  solution  dissolves  gold  leaf,  and  in- 
stantly blackens  a  piece  cf  silver  plunged  into 
it.     It  rapidly  destroys  the  color  of  iodide  of 
starch,  solution  of  indigo,  litmus,  and  turmeric. 
A  simple  method  of  detecting  free  chlorine  is 
to  hold  a  rod,  dipped  in  water  of  ammonia, 
over  it,  when  white  fumes  of  sal-ammoniac 
will  be  formed ;  this,  coupled  with  the  prop- 
erty of  bleaching  colors,  may,  in  most  cases, 
bo  taken  as  evidence  of  the  presence  of  this 
substance. 

4072.  Air.  The  air  or  atmosphere 
which  surrounds  the  earth  is  a  mixture  (not, 
combination — Foicnes)  of  77  parts  by  weight 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


381 


(or  79.19  parts  by  measure)  of  nitrogen,  and 
23  parts  by  weight  (or  20.81  by  measure)  of 
oxygen.  It  usually  contains  also  a  variable 
amount  of  moisture,  a  very  small  proportion 
of  carbonic  acid,  a  trace  of  ammonia,  and 
sometimes  of  carburetted  hydrogen;  these 
last  are  found  incidentally  iu  the  air,  in  a 
variable  degree.  It  is  the  standard  in  the 
comparative  or  specific  gravity  of  gaseous 
bodies.  (Sec  No.  47.)  At  60°  Fahr.,  and 
with  the  barometer  at  30  inches,  100  cubic 
inches  of  air  weigh  30.935  grains ;  and  water 
(the  standard  of  specific  gravity  for  fluids) 
weighs  just  816  times  as  much  as  air. 

4073.  Tests  for  Pure  Air.  A  simple 
method  of  ascertaining  the  presence  of  im- 
purity (carbonic  acid)  in  the  atmosphere,  is  to 
nearly  fill  a  glass  tumbler  with  limewater,  and 
to  place  it  in  any  convenient  position,  as  on 
the  mantelpiece  of  a  room.  The  rapidity 
with  which  a  pellicle  forms  on  its  surface,  or 
the  water  becomes  cloudy,  corresponds  to  the 
amount  of  the  carbonic  acid  present  in  the 
atmosphere  that  surrounds  it. 

A  little  moist  carbonate  of  lead  put  on  a 
plate  or  saucer,  and  exposed  in  the  same  way, 
will  turn  black,  should  any  sulphuretted  hy- 
drogen be  contained  in  the  air.  This  is  a  very 
delicate  test  for  that  destructive  gas. 


Miscellaneous  Chemi- 
cals. It  is  proposed,  in  this  place, 
to  give  a  concise  description  of  the  chemical 
compounds  referred  to  in  the  various  depart- 
ments of  this  book.  A  complete  list  of  chem- 
icals would  not  bo  necessary  for  the  scope  of 
the  work,  which  is  a  purely  practical  one ; 
such  information  only  is  therefore  given  as  is 
deemed  necessary  to  render  the  whole  thor- 
oughly intelligible,  and  as  complete  as  possi- 
ble. A  considerable  number  of  them  are  in- 
serted, for  the  sake  of  clearness,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  process  or  special  purpose  for 
which  their  use  is  directed.  These  will  be 
found  in  their  proper  place  by  reference  to  the 
INDEX. 

4075.  Chloride  of  Gold.  Gold  unites 
with  chlorine  under  two  different  proportions, 
and  are  distinguished  as  the  protochloridc  and 
the  terchloride  of  gold. 

The  terchloride  of  gold,  or  auric  chloride, 
consists  of  3  equivalents  of  chlorine  and  1  of 
gold,  and  is  obtained  by  dissolving  1  part  gold 
in  3  parts  nitro-muriatic  acid  (aqua-regia) ; 
evaporate  until  vapors  of  chlorine  begin  to 
be  disengaged,  and  then  set  the  solution 
aside  to  crystallize.  It  forms  orange-red 
crystalline  needles,  or  ruby-red  prism'atic  crys- 
tals; is  deliquescent,  and  soluble  in  water, 
ether.,  and  alcohol,  forming  a  deep  yellow  solu- 
tion. (Cooley.) 

The  protochloridc  of  gold,  or  aurous  chlor- 
ide, consists  of  1  equivalent  each  of  chlorine 
and  gold,  and  is  obtained  by  evaporating  the 
terchloride  to  dryness  and  exposing  it  to  a 
heat  of  4CO°  (440°  Fownes)  Fahr.,  until 
chlorine  ceases  to  be  evolved.  It  forms  a 
yellowish-white  mass,  insoluble  in  water;  but 
it  is  decomposed  by  water,  slowly  when  cold, 
and  rapidly  by  the  aid  of  heat,  into  metallic 
gold  and  terchloride  of  gold.  (Cooley.) 


4076.  Tests  for  the  Presence  of  Gold 
in  Solutions.      Protosulphate  of  iron  gives 
a  brown  precipitate,  which  acquires  a  metal- 
lic lustre  when  rubbed. 

Proto'chloride  of  tin  (preferably  containing 
a  little  perchloride)  gives  a  violet,  purple,  or 
blackish  precipitate,  insoluble  in  muriatic 
acid. 

Sulphuretted  hydrogen  and  hydrosulphuret 
of  ammonia  give  a  black  precipitate,  insoluble 
in  simple  acids. 

Ammonia  gives  a  reddish-yellow  precipitate 
(fulminating  gold)  with  tolerably  concentrated 
solutions,  either  at  once,  or  on  boiling  the  li- 
quid. 

Liquor  of  potassa  gives,  with  neutral  solu- 
tions of  gold,  a  similar  precipitate  to  that 
formed  by  ammonia,  insoluble  in  excess. 

4077.  Fused  Nitrate  of  Silver.    Take 
3  ounces  refined  silver,  2  fluid  ounces  nitric 
acid,  and  5  fluid  ounces  distilled  water ;  mix 
in  a  glass  flask  and  apply  a  gentle  heat  until 
the  metal  is  dissolved.     Transfer  the  solution 
to  a  porcelain  capsule  or  crucible,  decanting 
it  off  a  heavy  black  powder  which  appears  at 
the  bottom  of  the  flask ;  evaporate  the  solu- 
tion to  dryness ;  raise  the  heat,  in  a  dark  room, 
until  the  mass  liquefies,  then  pour  it  into 
hinged  brass  or  iron  moulds  furnished  with 
cylindrical  cavities  of  the  size  of  a  goose-quill. 
Keep  the  product,  which  is  Lunar  Caustic, 
or  fused  nitrate  of  silver,  in  well  stopped 
bottles,  impervious  to  the  light. 

Crystallized  (or  crystals  of)  Nitrate  of  Sil- 
ver is  obtained  by  dissolving  grain  silver 
(see  No.  3217)  in  nitric  acid  diluted  with  twice 
its  weight  of  water ;  evaporating  the  solu- 
tion until  it  will  crystallize  on  cooling  very 
slowly.  (See  No.  3213.) 

4078.  Oxide    of  Silver.      Dissolve  2 
parts  nitrate  of  silver,  and  1  part  hydrate  of 
potassa,   each  separately,  in  distilled  water; 
mix  the  solution,  and,  after  frequent  agitation 
during  an  hour,  collect  and  wash  the  precipi- 
tate, and  dry  it  by  a  gentle  heat  iu  the  shade. 
This  is  more  strictly  the  protoxide  of  silver, 
and  is  in  the  form  of  a  pale  brown  powder. 

4079.  To  Reduce  Solid  Silver  from 
its  Chloride.     Mix  together  the  dry  chloride 
of  silver  iu  J  its  weight  of  powdered  black 
resin;  heat  moderately  in  a  crucible  until  the 
flame  ceases  to  have  a  greenish  blue  color ; 
then  increase  the  heat  suddenly  until  the  sil- 
ver fuses  into  a  button  at  the  bottom  of  the 
crucible.      Some  parties  recommend  an  ad- 
dition of  a  little  powdered  calcined  borax, 
sprinkled  on  the  surface  before  increasing  the 
heat.     (See  No.  3214.) 

4080.  To  Prepare  Nitrate  of  Silver 
from   an  Alloy  of  Silver  and  Copper. 
Palm's  method.    "When  it  is  desired  to  pre- 
pare nitrate  of  silver  from  silver  containing 
copper — coins  for  example — filter  the  nitric 
acid  solution,  dissolve  the  alloy  in  nitric  acid, 
evaporate  it  nearly  to  the  consistence  of  oil, 
not  to  dryness,  and  add  to  a  part  of  this  con- 
centrated metallic  solution,  £  part  of  nitric 
acid  free  from  chlorine.     The  silver  salt  pre- 
cipitates in  the  form  of  crystals  and  the  cop- 
per remains  in  the  solution.     Wash  the  pre- 
cipitate 2  or  3  times  with  concentrated  nitric 
acid,  and  evaporate  to  dryness.     The  more 
concentrated  the  nitric  acid,  the  more  com- 
pletely is  the  silver  salt  precipitated ;  an  acid 


382 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


of  1 .250  specific  gravity  is  sufficient,  however, 
to  separate  completely  the  two  metals.  (See 
No.  3216.) 

4081.  Sulphate  of  Silver.     Prepared 
by  dissolving  silver  in  sulphuric  acid  contain- 
ing one-tenth  of  nitric  acid ;  or  by  precipita- 
ting a  solution  of  the  nitrate  by  another  of 
sulphate  of  soda.     It  dissolves  in  80  parts  of 
hot  water,  and  falls  in  small  needles  as  the  so- 
lution cools.    ( Cooley).     According  to  Fownes 
it  dissolves  in  88  parts  boiling  water. 

4082.  Sulphuret  of  Silver.    A  greyish- 
black  substance  prepared  by  passing  sulphu- 
retted hydrogen  gas  through  a  solution  of  ni- 
trate of  silver.    It  may  also  be  obtained  by 
melting  sulphur  and  silver  together. 

4083.  Tests  for  Silver  in  Solution. 
Silver  is    entirely   soluble  in  diluted  nitric 
acid.    This  solution,  treated  with  an  excess 
of  muriate  of  soda,  gives  a  white  precipitate 
entirely  soluble  in  ammonia  water,  and  a  fluid 
which  is  not  aifected  by  sulphuretted  hydro- 
gen.    The  nitric  solution  of  silver  also  gives 
a  white  curdy  precipitate  (chloride  of  silver) 
with  muriatic  acid,   soluble  in  ammonia  and 
insoluble  in  nitric  acid,  and  blackened  by  ex- 
posure to  light.     It  gives  white  precipitates 
with  solutions  of  the  alkaline  carbonates,  oxa- 
lates,  and  prussiates.    It  gives  yellow  preci- 
pitates with  the  alkaline  arsenites  and  phos- 
phates.   "With  the  arseniates,  red  precipitates. 
"With  the  fixed  alkalies,  brown  precipitates. 
"With  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  a  black  powder. 
With  phosphorus  and  metallic  copper  or  zinc, 
A  precipitate  consisting  of  pure  silver. 

4084.  Chloride   of  Platinum.     The 
commercial  chloride  of  platinum  is  the  bi- 
chloride, formed  by  dissolving  platinum  in 
nitro-muriatic  acid  (aqua-regia),  and  evapo- 
rating the  solution  to  dryness  at  a  gentle  heat. 
It  is  reddish-brown,  deliquescent,  and  very 
soluble   in    water    and   in    alcohol,   yielding 
orange-colored  solutions.     ( Cooley. )    (See  No. 
3220.) 

4085.  Protochloride   of    Platinum. 
This  is  formed  by  exposing  the  dried  and  pow- 
dered bichloride  (see  No.  4084)  for  some  time 
to  a  temperature  of  450°  Fahr.    It  is  a  green- 
ish-grey, powder,  insoluble  in  water,  but  sol- 
uble in  muriatic  acid. 

4086.  Ammonio-Chloride  of  Plati- 
num.   A  solution  of  sal-ammoniac  is  added 
to  a  strong  solution  of  bichloride  of  platinum 
(see  No  4084),  avoiding  excess;  the  precipitate 
is  collected  on  a  filter,  washed  with  a  little 
weak  alcohol,  and  dried  at  a  heat  not  exceed- 
ing 180°  Fahr.    It  consists  of  minute,  trans- 
parent, yellow  crystals,  very  feebly  soluble 
in  water,  less  so  in  dilute  alcohol,  and  in- 
soluble in  acids.     By  heating  to  redness,  it  is 
converted  into   spongy  platinum.     (See  No. 
3336.) 

4087.  Tests  for  Solutions  of  Plati- 
num.    Sulphuretted  hydrogen  throws  down 
from  neutral  and  acid  solutions  of  platinum, 
a  blackish-brown  precipitate,  which  is  only 
formed  after  a  time  in  the  cold,  but  imme- 
diately on  heating  the  liquid.     Sal-ammoniac 
and  chloride  of  potassium  give  yellow  crys- 
talline precipitates,   insoluble  in    acids,   but 
soluble  in  excess  of  the  precipitant,  upon  the 
application  of  heat,  and  decomposable  by  heat, 
with  production  of  spongy  platinum.     Am- 
monia and  potassa  also  give  similar  precipi- 


tates in  solutions  previously  acidulated  with 
hydrochloric  acid.     (Cooley}. 

4088.  Subacetate  of  Copper.    A  green 
or  bluish-green  powder,  better  known  as  ver- 
digris.    This  may  be  made  by  spreading  the 
marc  of  grapes,   or  pieces  of  cloth  dipped  in 
crude   acetic   acid,   upon    plates    of   copper, 
with  exposure  to  the  air  for  several  weeks. 
(Fownes.) 

4089.  Binacetate  of  Copper.     Verdi- 
gris, dissolved  in  vinegar  with  the  aid  of  heat, 
forms  dark  green  or  blue  crystals  of  binacetate 
of  copper.     This  is  the  commercial  acetate  of 
copper. 

4090.  Ammonio-Sulphate  of  Copper. 
A  dark  blue  pulverulent  substance,  formed  by 
nibbing  together  1  ounce  sulphate  of  coppper 
and   \   ounce    sesquicarbonate   of   ammonia, 
until  carbonic  acid  ceases  to  be  evolved ;  then 
drying  the  product,  wrapped  in  bibulous  paper, 
in  the  air. 

4091.  Nitrate  of  Copper.     This  con- 
sists of  deep  blue,  very  deliquescent  crystals, 
obtained  by  dissolving  pure  copper  in  dilute 
nitric  acid.     (See  No.  97.) 

4092.  Protoxide  of  Copper— also 
known  as  Made  oxide  of  copper — may  be 
formed  by  calcining  metallic  copper,  nitrate 
of  copper,  or  the  hydrate,  thrown  down  from 
solutions  of  the  salts  of  copper  by  means  of 
pure  potassa.  This  preparation  was  formerly 
called  the  deutoxide  of  copper.  It  is  not 
changed  by  heat,  but  readily  gives  out  its 
oxygen  when  heated  with  combustible  mat- 
ter; hence  its  general  use  in  organic  analysis 
for  supplying  oxygen.  It  communicates  a 
beautiful  green  color  to  glass  and  enamels. 

4093.  Sulphite  of  Copper.     To  a  con- 
centrated solution  of  bisulphite  of  potash  add 
a  cold  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper,  filter, 
and  heat  gently. 

4094.  Suboxide  of  Copper.     This   is 
the  red  oxide  of  copper,  obtained  by  heating 
together  in  a  covered  crucible  4  parts  copper 
filings,  and   5  parts  black   oxide  of  copper. 
(See  No.  4092.)     Or:  Mix  100  parts  sulphate 
of  copper  with  57  parts  carbonate  of  soda, 
(both  in  crystals),  and  fuse  them  at  a  gentle 
heat;  cool,  pulverize,  add  25  parts  fine  copper 
filings,  ram  the  mixture  into  a  crucible,  cover 
it  over,  and  expose  it  for  20  minutes  to  a  white 
heat.    It  consists  of  a  superb  red  powder 
with  a  metallic  lustre.    It  is  used  as  a  pig- 
ment and  a  bronze,  and  as  a  stain  for  glass 
and  enamel,  to  which  it  gives  a  rich  red  color. 
Heat  converts  it  into  the  black  oxide.     "With 
ammonia  it  forms  a  colorless  solution,  which 
rapidly  becomes  blue  from  the  action  of  the 
air.     (Cooley.) 

4095.  Peroxide  of  Copper.    An  oxide 
formed  by  the  action  of  peroxide  of  hydrogen 
water  on  the  hydrated  black  oxide. 

4096.  Sulphate  of  Copper.     The  blue 
vitriol  of  commerce  is  obtained  from  the  na- 
tive sulphuret  of  copper    (copper  pyrites). 
Pure  sulphate  of  copper  is  made  by  the  direct 
solution  of  the  metal,  or  preferably,   of  its 
oxide  or  carbonate,  in  sulphuric  acid.     It  con- 
sists of  fine  blue  crystals,  slightly  efflorescent 
in  the  air.     By  heat  it  loses  its  water  of  crys- 
tallization and  crumbles  into  a  white  powder. 
(See  No.  120.) 

4097.  Chloride  of  Copper.     Dissolve 
black  oxide  of  copper  in  muriatic  acid ;  evap- 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


383 


orate  and  crystallize.  It  forms  green,  deli- 
quescent crystals,  soluble  in  alcohol,  the  flame 
of  which  if  turns  green ;  exposed  to  a  heat 
ander  400°  Fahr.  it  becomes  anhydrous,  as- 
suming the  form  of  a  yellow  powder. 

4098.  Ferrocyanide  of  Copper.     Call- 
ed also  Prussiate  of  Copper.     Precipitate  a 
solution  of  a  salt  of  copper  (sulphate  of  cop- 
per, for  instance,)   with  another  of  yellow 
prussiate  of  potash  ;  collect  the  powder,  wash 
it  with  water,  and  dry.     Has  a  beautiful  red- 
dish-brown color,  and  is  sometimes  used  as  a 
pigment. 

4099.  Tests  for  Copper  Solutions.  The 
solutions  of  copper  possess  a  blue  or  green 
color,  which  they  retain,  even  when  considera- 
bly diluted  with  water. 

"With  caustic  potassa  they  givo  a  light  blue 
bulky  precipitate,  turning  blackish-brown  or 
black  on  boiling  the  liquid. 

Ammonia  and  carbonate  of  ammonia  pro- 
duce a  bluish- white  precipitate,  soluble  in 
excess  of  ammonia,  yielding  a  rich  deep  blue 
solution. 

The  carbonates  of  potassa  give  a  similar 
precipitate  to  the  last,  but  insoluble  in  excess 
of  the  precipitate. 

FeiTocyanide  of  potassium  gives  a  reddish- 
brown  precipitate.  Sulphuretted  hydrogen 
and  hydrosulphuret  of  ammonia  give  a  black- 
ish-brown or  black  one. 

A  polished  rod  of  iron,  on  inmersion  in  an 
acidulated  solution,  quickly  becomes  coated 
with  metallic  copper. 

4100.  Delicate    Test  for    Iron  and 
Copper.     The  alcohol  tincture  of  logwood 
will  produce  a  blue  or  bluish-black  tint  in 
water  which  has  been  run  through  iron  or 
copper  pipes,  when  neither  tincture  of  galls, 
sulphocyanide,  nor  the  ferrid  and  ferrocyan- 
ides  of  potassium  show  any  reaction. 

4101.  Acetate  of  Lead.     Acetate  of 
lead  should  be  completely  soluble  in  distilled 
water,  and  when  the  lead  is  exactly  precipi- 
tated with  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  or  by  sulphu- 
retted hydrogen,  the  clear  supernatant  liquid 
should  be  wholly  volatilized  by  heat  without 
residue.     Sulphuric  acid  poured  on  acetate  of 
lead  evolves  acetic  vapors.     Acetate  of  lead 
is  powerfully  astringent.     Take  4  pounds  2 
ounces  oxide  of  lead  (litharge),  acetic  acid 
(specific  gravity  1.048),  and  distilled  water,  of 
each  4  pints ;  mix  the  fluids,  add  the  oxide, 
dissolved  by  a  gantle  heat,  strain,  evaporate, 
and  crystallize.      On  the  largo  scale  it  is  usu- 
ally prepared  by  gradually  sprinkling  oxide  of 
lead  into  strong  vinegar,  heated  in  a  copper 
boiler  rendered  negative-electric  by  having  a 
large  flat  piece  of  leat  soldered  within  it,  con- 
stant stirring  being  employed  until  the  acid  is 
saturated,   when    the    mother    liquors  of  a 
former    process  ma3r  be  added,    the  whole 
heated  to  the  boiling  point,  allowed  to  settle 
till  cold,  decanted,  evaporated  to  about  the 
specific  gravity  1.236  or  1.2G7,  and  then  run 
into  salt-glazed  stoneware  vessels  to  crystal- 
lize.   The  best  proportions  are,  finely  pow- 
dered litharge  13  parts,  and  acetic  acid  speci- 
fic gravity  1.0482  to  1.0484,  23  parts.     These 
ingredients  should  produce  about  38i  parts  of 
crystallized  sugar  of  lead.     A  very  slight  ex- 
cess of  acid  should  be  preserved  in  the  liquid 
during  the  boiling  and  crystallization,  to  pre- 
vent   the  formation    of   any  basic    acetate, 


which  would  impede  the  formation  of  regular 
crystals. 

4102.  Chloride  of  Lead.      This  is  a 
white  crystalline  powder,  called  also  muriate 
of  lead.     Precipitate  a  solution  of  19  ounces 
acetate  of  lead  in  3  pints  boiling  distilled 
water,  with  a  solution  of  6  ounces  chloride  of 
sodium  in  1  pint  boiling  water ;  when  cold, 
wash  and  dry  the  precipitate.    It  may  bo  ob- 
tained in  brilliant  colorless  needle-shaped  crys- 
tals, by  dissolving  finely  powdered  litharge 
in  boiling  dilute  hydrochloric   acid.      Filter 
while  hot,  and  the  crystals  form  on  cooling. 

4103.  Iodide  of  Lead.    Acetato  of  lead, 
9  ounces;  water,  G  pints;  dissolve;  iodide  of 
potassium  (pure),  7  ounces ;  water,  2  pints ;  dis- 
solve.    Add  the  latter  solution  to  the  former, 
wash  and  dry  the  precipitate,  and  keep  it  from 
the  light.     Or :    Iodide  of  potassium  and  ni- 
tate  of  lead,  of  each  1  ounce ;  dissolve  each 
separately  in  £  pint  of  water,  mix,  collect  the 
precipitate  in  a  muslin  or  linen  filter,  and  wash 
it  with  water ;  then  boil  it  in  3  gallons  water, 
soured  with  pyrolignepus  (acetic)  acid,  3-  fluid 
ounces ;  let  the  solution  settle  (still  keeping 
the  liquid  near  the  boiling  point),  and  decant 
the  clear ;  as  the  water  cools,  the  iodide  will 
subside  in  brilliant  golden  yellow  lamellae,  or 
minute  crystals. 

The  latter  is  the  best  process,  as  any  ad- 
hering oxide  of  lead  is  dissolved  out  by  the 
acid.  (Coolcy). 

4104.  Chromate  of  Lead.    To  a  fil- 
tered solution  of  acetate  or  nitrate  of  load, 
add  a  filtered  sohition  of  chromate  of  potassa, 
as  long  as  a  precipitate  forms,  which  is  col- 
lected, washed  with  water,  and  dried.    This 
forms  chrome-yellow.  (See  No.  2705.) 

4105.  Bichromate  of  Lead.     Boil  pure 
carbonate  of  lead  with  chromato  of  potassa  in 
excess,  until  it  assumes  a  proper  red  color; 
then  wash  it  with  pure  water,  and  dry  it  in 
the  shade.    This  is  the  pigment  known  as 
chrome-red.   (Sec  No.  2706.) 

4106.  Litharge.     Litharge  is  an  oxide 
of  lead  prepared  by  scraping  off  the  dross  that 
forms  on  the  surface  of  melted  lead  exposed 
to  a  current  of  air  (dross  of  lead),  and  heating 
it  to  a  full  red,  to  melt  out  any  undecornposed 
metal.     The  fused  oxide  in  cooling  forms  a 
yellow  or  reddish  semi-crystalline  mass,  which 
readily  separates    into  scales;    these,   when 
ground,  constitute  the  powdered  litharge  of 
commerce.    Litharge  is  also  prepared  by  ex- 
posing red  lead  to  a  heat  sufficiently  high  to 
iuso  it,  and  English  litharge  is  obtained  as  a 
secondary  product  by  liquefaction,  from  ar- 
gentiferous lead  ore.     The  litharge  of  com- 
merce is  distinguished  by  its  color  into  lith- 
arge of  gold,  which  is  dark  colored  and  im- 
pure, and  litharge  of  silver,  which  is  purer, 
and  p_aler  colored,     the  dark  color  of  the  for- 
mer is  chiefly  owing  to  the  presence  cf  red 
lead.    In  grinding  litharge,  about  1  pound  of 
olive  oil  is  usually  added  to  each  1  cwt.,  to 
prevent  dust.    Litharge  is  employed  in  phar- 
macy, to  make  plasters  and  several    other 
preparations  of  lead ;  by  painters  as  a  dryer 
for  oils,  and  for  various  other  purposes  in  the 
arts. 

4107.  Nitrate  of  Lead.    Litharge,  4i 
ounces;  diluted  nitric  acid,  1  pint;  dissolve 
by  a  gentle  heat,  and  set  the  solution  aside  to 
crystallize.     Employed  as  external  application 


384, 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


in  cutaneous  affections,  &c.  A  very  weak  so- 
lution is  an  excellent  remedy  for  chapped 
hands,  &c. 

4108.  Tests  for  the  Presence  of  Lead 
in  its  Solutions.     The  presence  of  lead  in 
solutions  may  be  recognized  by  the  effects 
produced  by  the  following  reagents : 

The  addition  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen, 
hydrosulphurot  of  ammonia,  or  the  alkaline 
Bulphurets,  to  a  solution  containing  lead,  give 
black  precipitates,  insoluble  in  cold  dilute 
acids,  alkalies,  alkaline  sulphurets,  and  cyanide 
of  potassium. 

Caustic  potassa  or  soda  gives  a  white  pre- 
cipitate, soluble  in  excess  of  the  precipitant. 

Ammonia  throws  down  a  white  precipitate, 
insoluble  in  excess,  from  all  the  solutions  of 
lead  salts,  except  that  of  the  acetate. 

Dilute  sulphuric  acid,  in  excess,  also  solu- 
tions of  the  sulphates,  give  a  white  precipitate, 
insoluble  in  dilute  nitric  acid,  but  soluble  in  a 
solution-  of  potassa. 

Chromate  of  potassa  gives  a  yellow  precip- 
itate,-whose  soluble  qualities  are  the  same  as 
that  from  sulphuric  acid  last  mentioned. 

Iodide  of  potassium  gives  a  yellow  precipi- 
tate, soluble  in  acetic  acid,  a  solution  of  po- 
tassa, alcohol,  and  boiling  water;  from  boiling 
water  it  is  deposited  in  small,  brilliant,  gold- 
en-yellow scales,  as  the  liquid  cools.  (See 
also  Nos.  2694,  <tc.) 

4109.  To  Prepare  Chloride  of  Zinc. 
Dilute  1  pint  hydrochloric  acid  with  1  quart 
water,  add  to  it  7  ounces  zinc  in  small  pieces ; 
when  the  effervescence  is  nearly  finished,  ap- 
ply heat  until  bubbles  cease  to  be  evolved; 
decant  the  clear  and  evaporate  to  dryness. 
Fuse  the  product  in  a  lightly  covered  crucible, 
by  a  red  heat ;  pour  it  out  on  a  flat,  smooth 
stone,  and,  when  cold,  break  it  into  small 
pieces,  and  preserve  it  in    a  well-stoppered 
bottle. 

4110.  Ammonio-Chloride  of  Zinc. 
By  dissolving  68  parts  chloride  of  zinc  and 
54  parts  sal-ammoniac,  a  crystallizable  salt 
is  formed,  which  dissolves  oxides  of  copper 
and  of  iron,  and  is  useful  in  tinning  or  zincing 
thcso  metals. 

4111.  Chloride  of  Zinc.     Dissolve  2| 
troy  ounces  zinc  in  small  pieces,  in  sufficient 
muriatic  acid;    strain  the  solution,  add  60 
grains  nitric  acid,  and  evaporate  to  dryness. 
Dissolve  the  mass  in  5  fluid  ounces  water,  add 
60  grains  chalk,  and  let  the  mixture  stand  for 
24  hours;  then  filter,  and  evaporate  to  dry- 
ness.    Lastly,  fuse  the  dry  mass,  pour  it  out 
on  a  flat  stone,  and,  when  it  has  congealed, 
break  the  mass  in  pieces  and  keep  in  a  well- 
stoppered  bottle.     (U.  S.  Disp.) 

41 12.  Precipitated  Carbonate  of  Zinc. 
Take  12  troy  ounces  each  sulphate  of  zinc 
and  carbonate  of  soda ;  dissolve  each  separate- 
ly in  4  pints  water;  mix  the  solutions  and  let 
the  powder  subside ;  pour  off  the  liquid,  wash 
the  precipitate  with  hot  water  until  the  wash- 
ings are  nearly  tasteless,  and  dry  with  a  gen- 
tle heat.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4113.  Tutty  Powder.      Impure  oxide 
of  zinc.    It  is  a  substance  which  collects  in 
the  chimneys  of  the  furnaces  in  which  the 
ores  of  zinc  are  smelted. 

4114.  To  Prepare  Pure  Sulphate  of 
Zinc.     Mix  4  ounces  laminated  or  granulated 
Bine  with  3  fluid  ounces  oil  of  vitriol,  and  1 


pint  water,  in  a  porcelain  capsule,  and  when 
gas  ceases  to  be  evolved,  boil  for  10  minutes, 
filter  through  muslin,  and  evaporate  to  dry- 
ness  ;  next  dissolve  it  in  1  pint  water,  agitate 
this  solution  frequently  during  6  hours  with  $ 
ounce  prepared  chalk,  and  niter  it;  add  to 
the  filtered  solution  1  fluid  draclrtn  each  com- 
mercial nitric  acid  and  dilute  sulphuric  acid  ; 
evaporate  the  mixture  until  a  pellicle  forms 
on  the  surface,  and  set  it  aside  to  crystallize  ; 
dry  the  crystals  on  bibulous  paper  without 
heat,  and  preserve  them  in  a  bottle.  The 
mother  liquor  will  yield  more  crystals  by 
further  evaporation.  This  substance  is  als 
known  as  tvhite  vitriol. 

4115.  Cyanide  of  Zinc.   Add  a  solution 
of  cyanide  ol  potassium  to  a  solution  of  pure 
sulphate  of  zinc;  wash  and  dry  the  precip- 
itate. 

4116.  Flowers   of  Zinc.     This  is  ob- 
tained by  the  rapid  combustion  of  zinc  in  a 
deep  crucible,  placed  sideways  in  a  furnace, 
so  that  the  flowers  (oxide  of  zinc)  may  be  col- 
lected as  they  form. 

4117.  Oxide  of  Zinc.    Place  carbonate 
of  zinc  in  a  covered  clay  crucible,  and  expose 
to  a  very  low  red  heat,  until  a  portion  taken 
from  the  centre  of  the  mass  ceases  to  effer- 
vesce on  being  dropped  into  dilute  sulphuric 
acid.      This    is  the    commercial  zinc-white. 


4118.    Tests  for  the  Solutions  of  Zinc. 

The  solutions  of  zinc  are  precipitated  white  by 
the  pure  alkalies  and  carbonate  of  ammonia, 
but  are  completely  redissolved  by  excess  of 
the  precipitant.  The  carbonates  of  petassa 
and  soda  give  a  permanent  white  precipitate 
of  carbonate  of  zinc.  Hydrosulphuret  of 
ammonia  also  gives  a  white  precipitate,  and 
so  does  sulphuretted  hydrogen  when  the  solu- 
tion is  quite  neutral.  Prussiate  of  potash 
gives  a  gelatinous  white,  or  bluish-white  pre- 
cipitate. 

4119.  Protoxide  of  Tin.  Usually 
termed  oxide  of  tin.  Precipitate  a  solution 
of  protochlorido  of  tin  with  carbonate  of  po- 
tassa,  wash  and  dry  the  powder  at  a  heat 
under  166°  Fahr.,  with  as  little  exposure  to 
the  air  as  possible.  It  is  a  white  or  greyish- 
white  powder,  soluble  in  acids  and  in  the 
pure  fixed  alkalies.  If  it  be  heated  in  an  atmo- 
sphere cf  carbonic  acid  it  loses  its  water  and 
changes  to  a  dense  black  powder,  which  is 
anhydrous  protoxide.  (Coolcy.) 

4120.  Sesquioxide   of  Tin.     A  grey, 
slimy  precipitate,   soluble  in  muriatic  acid, 
and  in  ammonia,  obtained  by  mixing  fresh, 
moist  hydratcd  peroxide  of  iron  with  a  solu- 
tion   of    the   neutral    protochloride    of  tin. 
(Fuchs). 

4121.  Binoxide  or  Peroxide  of  Tin. 
Obtained  by  adding  potassa,  or  an  alkaline 
carbonate,  to  a  solution  of  pcrchloride  of  tin. 
This  substance  is  also  known  as  Stannic  acid; 
hence,  its  compounds  with  alkalies  are  some- 
times called  GTAK^ATES.  It  is  soluble  in  acids, 
and  in  pure  alkalies.    If  grain  tin  be  heated 
in  a  test  tube  with  nitric  acid,  the  tin  is  con- 
verted, with  evolution  of  yellow  fumes,  into  a 
white  powder,  peroxide   of  tin.     The   nitric 
acid  will  convert  the  tin  into  an  oxide,  but  it 
cannot  combine  with    the    oxide   produced. 
(Stockhardt.)     From    this    it   appears    that 
nitrate  of  tin  is  a  misnomer. 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


385 


4122.  Tin  or  Polishers'  Putty.    Melt 
tin  with  rather  more  thau  an  equal  quantity 
of  lead,  then  rapidly  raise  the  heat  till  the 
mixture  is  red  hot;    the  tin  will  then    be 
thrown  off  in  dross,  which  should  be  removed 
as  it  forms.     This  dross  is  the  peroxide  of  tin, 
or  tin  putty ;  the  dross  may  be  calcined  until 
it   becomes    whitish,   and  then   reduced  to 
powder. 

4123.  Protochloride  of  Tin.     Muriate 
of  tin  is  obtained  by  distilling  a  mixture  of 
chloride  of  mercury  and  tin  in  fine  powder. 
It  is  grey,  solid,  resin-like,  fusible,  and  volatile. 
(  Coolei/. ) 

4124.  Perchloride  of  Tin.     Called  also 
Bichloride  and  Permuriate  of  Tin.     The  pure 
bichloride  is  obtained  by  heating  the  proto- 
chloride  in  chlorine  gas,  or  by  distilling  a 
mixture  of  8  parts  of  grain  tin  with  24  parts 
of  corrosive  sublimate,  when  a  very  volatile, 
colorless  liquid  comes  over,  which  was  form- 
erly called  Libavius1  fuming  liquor.     A  solu- 
tion of  the  bichloride  or  permuriate  of  tin  is 
obtained   by  dissolving  tin  in  nitromuriatic 
acid.     This  solution  is  much  used  by  dyers, 
under  the  name  of   Spirits  of  Tin,   Dyers' 
Spirits,   &c.    (See  Nos.   107,  <fc.)    For  this 
purpose,  the  acid  is  best  made  by  mixing  2 
parts   of  muriatic  acid  with  1  part  each  of 
nitric  acid  and  water,  all  by  measure.     (Lie- 
big).     The  tin  should  be  added  by  degrees, 
one  portion  being  allowed  to  dissolve  before 
adding  another ;   as,  without  this  precaution, 
the  action  is  apt  to  become  violent,  the  tem- 
perature rise,  and  peroxide  of  tin  to  bo  depos- 
ited.    (See  No.  108.)    A  process  which  has 
been  highly  recommended,  is  to  prepare  a 
simple  solution  of  the  protochloride,  and  to 
convert  it  into  the  bichloride,  either  by  the 
addition  of  nitric  acid  and  a  gentle  heat,  or 
by  passing  chlorine  through  it. 

4125.  Tests   for   the    Salts  of   Tin. 
The  salts  of  tin  are  characterized  by  the  fol- 
lowing general  properties:  Ferroprussiate  of 
potash  gives  a  white  precipitate.    Hydrosul- 
phuret  of  potash,   a  brown-black  with  the 
protoxide,  and  a  golden-yellow  with  the  per- 
oxide.    Galls  do  not  affect  the  solutions  of 
these  salts.     Corrosive  sublimate  occasions  a 
black  precipitate  with  the  protoxide  salts ;  a 
white   with  the  peroxide.    A  plate  of  lead 
frequently  throws  down  metallic  tin,  or  its 
oxide,  from  the  saline  solutions.     Chloride  of 
gold  gives,  with  the  protoxide  solutions,  the 
purple  precipitate    of  Cassius.    Chloride    of 
platinum  occasions  an  orange  precipitate  with 
the  protoxide  salts.     (Cooley.)    • 

4126.  Ethiops  of  Antimony.      Trit- 
urate together  3  parts  sulphuret  cf  antimony, 
and  2  parts  black  sulphuret  of  mercury. 

4127.  Flowers  of  Antimony.     Throw 
powdered  sulphuret  of  antimony,  by  spoon- 
fuls, into  an  ignited  tubulated  retort  that  has 
a  short  and  very  wide  neck,  until  as  many 
flowers  collect  in  the  receiver  as  are  required. 

The  argentine  flowers  are  thus  prepared: 
Keep  metallic  antimony  melted  in  a  vessel, 
freely  exposed  to  the  air,  and  furnished  with 
a  cool  place  for  the  flowers  to  rest  upon ;  col- 
lect the  flowers  as  deposited.  According  to 
Berzelius,  these  are  sesquioxide  of  mercury. 

4128.  Liver  of  Antimony.  Melt 
together  1  part  sulphuret  of  antimony, 
and  2  parts  dry  carbonate  of  soda  (or 


potash),  and  heat  until  it  acquires  a  proper 
color;  then  cool  and  powder  it.  Crocus  of 
antimony  is  sometimes  sold  for  the  above,  but 
the  latter  is  prepared  by  deflagrating  equal 
parts  of  antimony  and  saltpetre  (nitrate  of 
potassa),  a  small  portion  at  a  time,  and  the 
fused  mass,  separated  from  the  dross,  reduced 
to  fine  powder.  (Cooley.) 

4129.  Potassio-Tartrate  of  Anti- 
mony. Commercial  Tartar  Emetic.  Take  2 
troy  ounces  oxide  of  antimony,  and  2i  troy 
ounces  bitartrate  of  potassa,  both  in  very  fine 
powder;  mix  them  together,  and  add  them 
to  18  fluid  ounces  boiling  distilled  water  in  a 
glass  vessel.  Boil-for  1  hour,  filter  while  hot, 
and  set  aside  to  crystallize.  Dry  the  crystals, 
and  keep  in  a  well-stoppered  bottle.  By 
further  evaporation  the  mother-water  will 
yield  more  crystals,  which  should  be  purified 
by  a  second  crystallization.  (  U.  S.  Ph. ) 

4130.  Oxide  of  Antimony.    Insert  4 
troy  ounces  sulphuret  of  antimony  in  very 
fine  powder  into  a  quart  flask ;  add  18  troy 
ounces  muriatic  acid,  and  digest  in  a  sand- 
b'ath  until  effervescence  ceases.   Then  remove 
the  bath  and  add  600  grains  nitric  acid,  and 
when  nitrous  fumes  cease  to  be  given  off,  and 
the  liquid  has  grown  cold,  add  it  to  £  pint 
water,  and  filter.     Pour  the  filtrate  gradually 
into  12  pints  water,  constantly  stirring,  and 
wash  the  precipitate  twice  by  decantation, 
using  each  time  spirits  water;  drain  it  through 
muslin,  and  then  wash  it  with  water  until  tie 
washings  cease  to    have  an    acid    reaction. 
Add  li  fluid  ounces  water  of  ammonia,  and, 
after  standing  2    hours,  filter  through  wet 
muslin,  and  wash  with  distilled  water  as  long 
as  the  washings  form  a  precipitate  with  nitrate 
of  silver.     Then  dry  with  a  gentle  heat  on 
bibulous  paper.     (U.   S.  Ph.)     A  greyish- 
white  powder,  insoluble  in  water,  soluble  in 
muriatic  and  tartaric  acids. 

4131.  Butter  of  Antimony.     The  li- 
quid   chloride    of    antimony,    commercially 
known  by  this  name,  is  usually  made  by  dis- 
solving crude  or  roasted  black  antimony  in 
muriatic  acid  with  the  addition  of  a  little 
nitric  acid.     It  usually  contains  pernitrate  of 
iron. 

4132.  Sulphuret  of  Antimony.    The 
black  sulphuret  (tcrsulphuret)  of  antimony  is 
prepared  from  commercial  sulphuret  of  anti- 
mony or  by  elutriation,  in  the  same  manner 
as  directed  for  prepared  chalk.  (See  No'.  1292.) 
The  commercial  sidphuret  is  obtained  from 
the  native  gray  antimony  ore  by  fusion ;  this 
separates  the  sulphuret  from  the  less  fusible 
earthy  matter;   it  is  then  run  into  cakes. 
(Cooley.) 

Mixtures  of  an  acidulated  menstruum  or  sy- 
rup with  a  sulphuret  cf  antimonj^,  are  apt  to 
disengage  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  when  there 
is  much  of  them,  if  kept  in  a  warm  room. 
The  rule  should  bo  to  prepare  as  small  a 
quantity  as  possible,  and  to  keep  the  bottle 
cool.  (Eymael.) 

4133.  Penta-Sulphuret  of  Antimony. 
Called  also  golden   sulphuret  of  antimony. 
Boil  together  for  some  hours  72  parts  tersul- 
phuret  of  antimony,  68  parts  dry  carbonate  of 
soda,  52  parts  fresh  hydrate  .of  lime,  and  13 
parts  sulphur ;  filter,  evaporate,  and  crystal- 
lize.   Redissolve  the  crystals  (Schlippe's  salt), 
add  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  collect  the  goldea 


386 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


floculent  precipitate,  wash  it  with,  cold  dis- 
tilled water,  and  diy  with  a  gentle  heat. 
(Liebig.) 

4134.  Nitrate  of  Bismuth.    The  neu- 
tral nitrate  is  made  from  2  ounces  pure  bis- 
muth   broken  into  fragments,   dissolved  by 
heat  in  6  ounces  nitric  acid,  adding  more  acid, 
if  necessary,  to  effect  entire  solution.    Add  to 
the  solution  half  its  volume  of  distilled  water, 
filter  through  powdered  glass,  and  crystallize 
by  evaporation.     (Cooley.) 

4135.  Subnitrate  of  Bismuth.    This 
\3  also  called  trisnitrate  of  bismuth,  magistery 
of  bismuth,  and  pearl  white.    It  is  insoluble  in 
water,  but  freely  soluble  in  nitric  acid.    Dis- 
solve 2  ounces  bismuth  in  3  fluid  ounces  ni- 
tric acid,  previously  diluted  with  2  fluid  oun- 
ces distilled  water;    then  add  3  quarts  cold 
water,  and  allow  the  white  precipitate  to  sub- 
eide.      Afterwards  decant  the    clear  liquor, 
wash  the  powder,  and  dry  it  by  a  gentle  heat. 
(Br.  Ph.) 

4136.  Oxide  of  Bismuth.    The  anhy- 
drous oxide  is  made  by  exposing  the  nitrate 
or  subnitrate  to  gentle  ignition  in  a  crucible. 
This  is  a  straw-yellow  colored  powder.    The 
hydrated  oxide  is  a  rich-looking  white  pow- 
der, obtained  thus:  Dissolve  2  pounds  bis- 
muth in  2J  pounds  nitric  acid,  and  drop  it 
gradually  into  a  solution  of  3  pounds  carbon- 
ate of  potassa  in  twice  it  weight  of  water, 
rendered  caustic  by  previous  treatment  with 
quicklime  (see  No.  101);  wash  the  precipitate 
well  with  cold  water. 

4137.  Tests  for  the  Salts  of  Bismuth. 
Tin,  copper,  iron,  and  zinc  throw  down  bis- 
muth from  its  solutions  in  the  metallic  state. 
If  a  salt  of  bismuth  bo  heated  with  carbonate 
of  soda  by  the  flame  of  a  blowpipe,  a  bead  of 
the  metal,  surrounded  by  a  crust  of  yellow 
oxide,  is  obtained.      The  brittleness  of  the 
bead  under  the  hammer  distinguishes  it  from 
lead.     The  salts  of  bismuth  are  mostly  devoid 
of  color ;  some  are  soluble,  others  insoluble. 
The  soluble  salts  redden  litmus  paper ;  and, 
when  the  solution  contains  but  little  free  acid, 
and  is  largely  diluted  with  water,  a  subsalt, 
more  or  less  soluble,  is  deposited.    This  pro- 
perty of  forming  subsalts  is  very  characteristic. 
(Makins.) 

4138. 

S reparation  is  usually  known  as"  calomel. 
oil,  by  means  of  a  sand-bath,  24  troy  ounces 
mercury  with  30  troy  ounces  sulphuric  acid, 
until  a  dry  white  mass  is  left.  Kub  this, 
when  cold,  with  24  ounces  mercury  in  an 
earthenware  mortar  until  thoroughly  mixed ; 
add  18  troy  ounces  chloride  of  sodium,  tritu- 
rate until  the  globules  of  mercury  cease  to 
appear,  and  sublime  the  mixture.  Reduce 
the  sublimate  to  a  very  fine  powder  and  wash 
it  with  boiling  distilled  water  until  the  wash- 
ings afford  no  precipitate  with  water  of  am- 
monia, and  dry  it.  ( U.  8.  Ph.) 

4139.  Bichloride  of  Mercury.  The 
corrosive  sublimate  of  the  drug  stores.  Boil 
24  troy  ounces  mercury  in  36  troy  ounces  sul- 
phuric acid,  by  means  of  a  sand-bath.  When 
cold,  rub  the  dry  white  mass  with  18  troy 
ounces  chloride  of  sodium  in  an  earthenware 
mortar;  then  sublime  with  a  gentle  heat. 


Chloride  of  Mercury.     This 


( U.  S.  Ph.) 
4140.    White  Precipitate. 


This  is  the 


ammonio-ckloride  of  mercury,  and  is  prepared 


by  dissolving,  with  heat,  6  ounces  bichloride 
of  mercury  (corrosive  sublimate)  in  3  quarts 
distilled  water;  when  cool,  add  8  fluid  oun- 
ces liquor  of  ammonia,  frequently  shaking  it. 
"Wash  the  precipitate  with  water,  and  dry  it. 
It  is  used  to  make  an  ointment  for  skin  dis- 
eases ;  also  to  destroy  small  vermin. 

4141.  Red  Precipitate.    lied  oxide  or 
binoxide  of  mercury  is  now  used  in  medicine 
as  an  escharotic,  also  to  induce  salivation. 
Dissolve  4  ounces  bichloride   of  mercury  in 
6  pints  water ;  add  28  fluid  ounces  liquor  of 
ammonia;   wash  the  precipitate  in  distilled 
water,  and  dry  by  a  gentle  heat. 

4142.  Chloride  of  Mercury  and  Am- 
monia.    This  is  obtained  by  triturating  to- 
gether  equal  parts  of  bichloride  of  mercury 
and  sal-ammoniac.    This  addition  of  sal-am- 
moniac renders  the  corrosive  sublimate  more 
soluble  in  water,  for  use  in  lotions  and  injec- 
tions. 

4143.  Black  Precipitate.     Protoxide 
of  mercury  is  obtained  by  agitating  together 
1  ounce  calomel  with  1  gallon  lime-water;  de- 
canting the  clear  liquid  after  subsidence,  and 
washing  the  sediment  with  distilled  water, 
after  which  it  is  dried  on  bibulous  paper. 

4144.  Protonitrate  of  Mercury.    Mix 
together   in  a  wide-bottomed    glass  vessel, 
equal  parts  of  quicksilver  and    nitric    acid 
(specific  gravity  1.32);  after  digestion  for  24 
hours  in  a  cool  place,  remove  the  crystals  that 
have  formed,  wash  them  with  a  little  nitric 
acid,  drain  them,  and  keep  from  the  air  in  a 
stoppered  bottle.     (Paris  Codex.) 

4145.  Tests  for  the  Salts  of  Mercury. 
The  salts  of  mercury  are  all  volatilized  at  a 
dull  red  heat — give  a  white  precipitate  with 
prussiate  of  potash,  a  black  one   with  sul- 
phuretted hydrogen  and  hydrosulphurets,  an 
orange-yellow  one  with  gallic  acid,  and  with 
a  plate  of  polished  copper,   a  white  coat  of 
metallic  mercury. 

Solutions  of  the  protosalts  of  mercury  yield 
a  grey  or  black  precipitate  with  alkalies,  a 
yellowish  or  greenish-yellow  one  with  iodide 
of  potassium,  a  white  one  with  muriate  of 
soda. 

Solutions  of  the  persalts  of  mercury  yield 
with  caustic  alkalies,  yellowish  or  red  preci- 
pitates; with  alkaline  carbonates,  a  brick-red 
one ;  with  iodide  of  potassium,  a  scarlet  one. 

4146.  Sulphate  of  Iron.     Commercial 
sulphate  of  iron  is  known  also  as  Copperas, 
Green  Vitriol,  Shoemakers'  Slack,  &c.    For 
medicinal  purposes  it  requires  some  prepara- 
tion :    Mix  1  fluid  ounce  sulphuric  acid  with 
4  pints  water ;  add  4  pounds  commercial  sul- 
phate of  iron,  and  1  ounce  iron  wire ;  digest 
with  heat  and  occasional  agitation  until  the 
sulphate  is  dissolved ;  strain  while  hot,  and 
set  aside  so  that  crystals  may  form ;  evaporate 
the  mother-liquor  for  more  crystals,  and  dry 
the  whole.     (Cooley.) 

4147.  Sulphuret   of   Iron.      Mix  to- 
gether 4  parts  sublimed  sulphur,  and  7  parts 
iron  filings.   Heat  in  a  crucible  in  a  common 
fire  till  the  mixture  begins  to  glow ;  then  re- 
move the  crucible  from  the  fire,  and  cover  it 
up  until  the  reaction  is  at  an  end  and  the 
whole  has  become  cold. 

4148.  Bisulphuret  of  Iron.      This  is 
found  in  large  quantities  in  mineral  form,  and 
is  known  as  Iron  pyrites.    It  may  also  be  ob- 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


387 


tained  by  projecting  a  mixture  of  5  parts  sul- 
phur, and  4  parts  iron  filings,  into  a  red-hot 
crucible,  excluding  the  air  as  much  as  possi- 
ble. It  melts  easily,  and  takes  sharp  casts, 
and  may  be  colored  red  with  vermilion. 

4149.  Hydrated    Protosulphuret    of 
Iron.     This  is  a  black,  insoluble  substance, 
rapidly  decomposed  by  exposure  to  the  air.    A 
neutral  solution  of  protosulphate  of  iron  made 
with  recently  boiled  or  distilled  water,  is  pre- 
cipitated  by  adding  a  solution  of  hydrosul- 
phuret of  ammonia,  or  of  sulphuret  of  potas- 
sium.     Collect  the  precipitate  on   a   filter, 
wash  it  as  quickly  as  possible  with  recently 
boiled  water,   squeeze  in  a  linen  cloth,  and 
preserve  in  its  pasty  state  under  water. 

This  preparation  of  iron  is  proposed  by 
Mialhe  as  an  antidote  to  the  salts  of  arsenic, 
antimony,  bismuth,  lead,  mercury,  &c.,  and 
to  arsenious  acid,  more  especially  to  white 
arsenic  and  corrosive  sublimate.  On  contact 
with  the  latter  substance  it  is  instantly  con- 
verted into  protochloride  of  iron  and  sul- 
phuret of  mercury,  two  comparatively  inert 
substances. 

4150.  Hydrated    Persulphuret    of 
Iron.     Prepared  by  adding,  very  gradually, 
a  diluted  solution  of  sulphured  cf  potassium,  or 
of  hydrosulphuret  of  ammonia,  to  a  neutral 
solution  of  persulphate  of  iron,  collecting,  &c., 
the  precipitate,  in  the  same  way  as  in  hydra- 
ted  protosulphuret  of  iron.     Bouchardat  and 
Sandras   recommend  this  persulphurct  as   a 
substitute   for  the  protosulphuret,  to  which, 
they  say,  it  is  preferable. 

4151.  Protoxide  of  Iron.     Dry  protox- 
ide of  iron  is  a  black  powder ;  in  its  hydrated 
state  it  is  white,  and  when  exposed  to  the  air 
rapidly  absorbs  oxygen,  assuming  first  a  grey- 
ish-green   color,   and    then    a  brownish-red, 
which  u  much  brightened  by  exposure  to  a 
red  heat,  at  the  same  time  that  its  solubility 
in  acids  is  considerably  lessened.     The  salts  of 
protoxide  of  iron  have  a  greenish  color,  but 
yield  nearly  colorless  solutions,  except  when 
concentrated.     The  white  hydrate  b  precipi- 
tated from  solutions  of  the  protosalts  of  iron 
by  the  pure  alkalies.     (Coolcy.) 

4152.  Tests  for  Solutions  of  the  Salts 
of  Protoxide  of  Iron.      When  acidulated 
they  are  not  precipitated  by  sulphuretted  hy- 
drogan ;    even  neutral  solutions  with  weak 
acids  are   incompletely  precipitated;   whilst 
alkaline  solutions  are  precipitated  of  a  black 
color. 

Neutral  solutions  arc  precipitated  black  by 
hydrosulphuret  of  ammonia. 

Ammonia  and  potassa  give  a  greenish- white 
precipitate,  gradually  becoming  green,  and 
then  brown  ia  the  air.  The  presence  of  amrno- 
niacal  salts  interferes  with  these  tests. 

Perrocyanidc  of  potassium  (yellow  prussiate 
of  potash)  gives  a  nearly  white  precipitate, 
becoming  gradually  blue  in  the  ah",  and  im- 
mediately so  on  the  addition  of  a  little  weak 
nitric  acid  or  chlorine  water. 

Ferridcyanido  of  potassium  (red  prussiate 
of  potash,  produces  a  rich  deep  blue  precipi- 
tate, insoluble  in  muriatic  acid.  In  highly 
dilute  solutions  the  effect  is  only  a  deep  blu- 
ish-green coloration. 

Aurochloride  of  sodium  gives  a  purple  pre- 
cipitate ;  and  phosphate  of  soda  a  blue  one. 

Cochineal  freed  from  fat  by  ether,  and  then 


digested  in  water  (or  very  weak  spirit), gives 
a  solution  which  is  colored  violet  by  the  pro- 
tosalts of  iron. 

4153.  Anhydrous    Sosquiqxide    of 
Iron.     A  pure  anhydrous  sesquioxide  is  ob- 
tained by  precipitating  a  solution  of  sesqui- 
sulphate  or  sesquichloride  of  iron  with  am- 
monia in  excess,  and  washing,  drying,  and 
igniting  the  resulting  hydrated  peroxide. 

4154.  Jewelers'  Rouge.      The    best 
jewelers'  rouge  is  prepared  by  calcining  the 
precipitated  peroxide  of  iron  (see  No.  4153) 
until  it  becomes   scarlet.     The  rust  of  iron 
contains  some  combined  water,  and  is  more 
soluble  than  the  oxide  prepared  by  calcina- 
tion ;  but  it  is  less  soluble  than  that  recently 
precipitated  from  its  solution  in  an  acid.    This 
is  also  called   Colcothar,  Crocus,  or  Crocus 
Mortis. 

4155.  Hydrated  Sesquioxide  of  Iron. 
Take  4  ounces  sulphate  of  iron;  3£  fluid  oun- 
ces oil  of  vitriol ;  water,  1  quart ;  mix,  dis- 
solve, and  boil,  then  gradually  add  9  fluid 
drachms  nitric  acid;    stirring  well  and  boil- 
ing for  a  minute  or  two  after  each  addition, 
until  the  liquor  yields  a  yellowish-brown  pre- 
cipitate with  ammonia,  when  it  must  be  fil- 
tered and  precipitated  with  3£  ounces  strong 
liquor  of  ammonia,  rapidly  added  and  well 
mixed  in;    collect,  wash  well    with  water, 
drain  on  a  calico  filter,  and  dry  at  a  heat  not 
exceeding  180°  Fahr.     When  intended  as  an 
antidote  for  arsenic  it  should  not  be  dried,  but 
kept  in  the  moist    or  gelatinous  state.     It 
should  be  kept  in  a  well-stoppered  bottle  filled 
with  recently  distilled  or  boned  water.     This 
preparation  is  also  called  hydrated  peroxide  of 
iron. 

4156.  Peroxide  of  Iron.     Peroxide,  or 
sesquioxido  of  iron,  is  a  brownish-red  powder, 
known  as  the  red  oxide  or  rust  of  iron ;  in  its 
hydrated  form  it  ia  very  soluble  in  acids,  but 
less  so  when  anhydrous.    The  salts  of  perox- 
ide of  iron  have  for  the  most  part  a  reddish- 
yellow  color,  and  redden  blue  litmus  paper. 
(Cooley.) 

4157.  Tests  for  the  Solutions  of  the 
Salts  of  Peroxide  of  Iron.     Sulphuretted 
hydrogen  throws  down  a  black  precipitate 
from  alkaline  solutions. 

Hydrosulphuret  of  ammonia  does  the  same 
with  neutral  solutions;  in  very  dilute  solu- 
tions the  precipitate  is  blackish-green;  the 
precipitate  in  both  cases  being  soluble  in 
muriatic  and  acetic  acids. 

Ammonia  and  potassa  produce  bulky  red- 
dish-brown precipitates  insoluble  in  excess  of 
the  precipitant. 

Ferrocyanide  of  potassium  (yellow  prussiate 
of  potash)  gives  a  rich  blue  precipitate,  in- 
soluble in  muriatic  acid,  and  readily  decom- 
posed by  potassa. 

Ferridcyanide  of  potassium  (red  prussiate 
of  potash)  deepens  the  color,  but  does  not 
give  a  blue  precipitate,  as  it  does  with  the 
protoxide.  (Sec  No.  4152.) 

Sulphocyanide  of  potassium  gives  an  in- 
tense ruby-red  color  to  neutral  or  acid  solu- 
tions ;  this  is  the  most  sensitive  test  known. 

Meconic  acid  and  the  meconiates  also  give  a 
red  color. 

A  tincture  or  infusion  of  galls  strikes  a 
black  color;  and  phosphate  of  soda  throws 
down  a  white  precipitate. 


388 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


4158.  To   Obtain   Pure   Oxalate   of 
Iron.     Togel  recommends  the  precipitation 
of  a  solution  of  an  ordinary  protosulphato  of 
iron  by  oxalic  acid.    The  filtered  solutions 
exclude  all  insoluble  matter,  and  the  precipi- 
tated oxalate  needs  but  sufficient  washing  and 
drying  to  obtain  the  oxalate  ef  iron  in  a  state 
of 'purity  and  of  constant  composition.     This 
ealt  gently  heated,  -with  exposure  to  the  air, 
takes  fire,  or  may  be  kindled,  and  then  con- 
tinues to  burn  until  the  whole  becomes  con- 
verted into  impalpable  peroxide  of  iron.    This 
cheap,  rapid,  and  perfect  method  of  obtaining 
a  perfect  oxide  of  iron,  free  from  all  grit  and 
eminently  fitted  for  all  the  finer  polishing 
purposes,  had  led  to  the  use  of  this  article  for 
polishing  the  finest  optical  glasses.  By  heating 
the  product  to  a  higher  temperature,  a  much 
harder    substance    may  be   obtained,  useful 
rather  for  grinding  than  for  polishing  pur- 
poses.     By  adding  salts  of  alumina,   chro- 
mium and  other  similar  salts  to  the  iron  solu- 
tion, wo  may  obtain  in  the  final  result — using 
sufficient  heat — products  nearly,  if  net  quite, 
equal  to  emery,  and  of  extraordinary  fine- 
ness. 

4159.  Acetate  of  Iron.    Dissolve   20 
ounces  sulphate  of  iron  in  7  ounces  strong 
sulphuric  acid,  and  heat  in  a  porcelain  dish 
nearly  to  boiling.    Then  add  gradually    10 
ounces  strong  nitric  acid;  and,  when  action 
ceases,  while  still  hot,  add  sufficient  ammonia 
to  precipitate  all  the    iron  as    sesquioxidc. 
Collect  this  on  a  linen  cloth,  and  wash  with 
water  until  the  washings   taste    no    longer 
saline.    While  still  moist,  put  the  sesquioxide 
into  a  bottle  with  sufficient  strong  acetic  acid 
to  dissolve  it. 

Twenty  ounces  of  sulphate  of  iron  contain 
4  ounces  iron;  hence,  if  sufficient  water  bo 
added  to  make  the  acetate  up  to  CO  ounces,  the 
solution  of  acetate  of  iron  thus  obtained 
will  contain  8  per  cent,  of  iron. 

4160.  Citrate   of  Iron.    This    salt  is 
easily  formed  by  digesting  iron  filings  or  wire 
with  citric  acid,  and  evaporating  the  solution 
as  quickly  as  possible  out  of  contact  with  the 
air.    It  presents  the  appearance  of  a  white 
powder,  nearly  insoluble  in  water,  and  rapidly 
passing  to  a  higher  state  of  oxidation  by  ex- 
posure to  the  air.     Its  taste  is  highly  metallic. 
It  is  usually  administered  in  the  form  cf  pills, 
mixed  with  gum  or  syrup,  to  prevent  prema- 
ture decomposition. 

4161.  Iodide  of  Iron.     Mix  together  6 
ounces  iodine,  2  ounces  iron  filings,  and  4h 
pints  water ;  boil  in  a  sand-bath  until  the  li- 
quid turns  to  a  pale  green,  filter,  wash  the 
residue  with  a  little  water,  and  evaporate  the 
mixed  liquors  in  an  iron  vessel,  at  212°,  to 
dryness,  and  immediately  put  the  iodide  into 
well-stoppered  bottles.    A  great  deal  has  been 
written  and  said  about  the  preparation  of 
iodide  cf  iron,  but  there  is  in  reality  very 
little  difficulty  in  the  process.    As  soon  as 
iodine  and  iron  arc  mixed  together  under  wa- 
ter, much  heat  is  evolved,  and  if  too  much 
water  bo  not  used,  the  combination  is  soon 
completed,  and  the  liquor  merely  requires  to 
bo  evaporated  to  dryness,  out  of  contact  with 
the  air,  at  a  heat  not  exceeding  212°.     This  is 
most  cheaply  and  easily  performed  by  em- 
ploying a  glass  flask,  with  a  thin  broad  bot- 
tom and  narrow  mouth,  by  which  means  the 


evolved  steam  will  exclude  air  from  the  vessel. 
The  whole  of  the  uncombined  water  may  be 
known  to  be  evaporated  when  vapor  ceases 
to  condense  on  a  piece  of  cold  glass  held  over 
the  mouth  of  the  flask ;  a  piece  of  moistened 
starch  paper  occasionally  applied  in  the  same 
way  will  indicate  whether  free  iodine  be 
evolved;  should  such  be  the  case,  the  heat 
should  bo  immediately  lessened.  "When  the 
evaporation  is  completed,  the  mouth  of  the 
flask  should  be  stopped  up  by  laying  a  piece 
cf  sheet  India-rubber  on  it,  and  over  that  a 
flat  weight;  the  flask  must  be  then  removed, 
and,  when  cold,  broken  to  pieces,  the  iodide 
weighed,  and  put  into  dry  and  warm  stoppered 
wide-mouthed  glass  phials,  which  must  be 
immediately  closed,  tied  over  with  bladder, 
and  the  stoppers  dipped  into  melted  wax. 

4162.  Ammonio  -  Citrate  of  Iron. 
Take  12^  ounces  carbonate  of  soda,  and  12 
ounces  sulphate  of  iron ;  dissolve  each  sepa- 
rately in  C  pints  boiling  distilled  water.  Mix 
the  solutions  whilo  hot,  and  allow  the  precip- 
itate to  subside.  Decant  the  liquor,  and,  after 
washing  the  precipitate  frequently  with 
water,  drain  it.  Then  add  to  it  6  ounces 
citric  acid  in  powder,  and  dissolve  the  mix- 
ture by  a  gentle  heat.  "When  cool,  add  9  fluid 
ounces  liquor  of  ammonia  of  specific  gravity 
.960.  It  must  then  be  filtered,  gently  evap- 
orated to  the  consistence  of  syrup,  and  spread 
verv  thinly  on  warm  sheets  of  glass  to  dry, 
which  it  will  rapidly  do,  if  exposed  in  an  atmo- 
sphere of  warm  dry  air,  and  may  then  be  easily 
detached  from  the  glass,  in  thin  scales  of 
great  brilliancy  and  beauty.  Only  a  gentle 
heat  must  be  employed,  not  exceeding  that  of 
a  water-bath.  This  is  the  method  cf  produc- 
ing those  beautiful  transparent  ruby-colored 
scales  which  are  so  much  admired.  It  must 
be  kept  in  well-stopped  bottles. 

4163.  Saccharine  Carbonate  of  Iron. 
A  sweet-tasted  greenish  mass  or  po'wder.     It 
is  one  cf  the  best  of  the  chalybeates  in  doses 
of  5  to  10  grains.      "When  pure  it  should  be 
easily  soluble  in  hydrochloric  acid  with  brisk 
effervescence.      Take  4  ounces  sulphate   of 
iron,  and  4J  ounces  carbonate  of  soda;  dis- 
solve each  separately  in.  1  quart  boiling  water. 
Mix  the  solutions  while  hot ;  and,  after  allow- 
ing time  for  subsidence,  collect  the  precipitate, 
wash  it  frequently  with  water,  and    drain. 
Then    add  2  ounces  sugar    previously  dis- 
solved in  2  fluid  ounces  water,  evaporate  over 
a  water-bath  to  dryness,  and  keep  in  a  well- 
stopped  bottle. 

4164.  Carburet  of  Iron.    Plumbago,  or 
black-lead,  ia  the  native  carburet  cf  iron.     To 
purify  it  for  chemical  use,  heat  it  to  redness 
with  caustic  potassa  in  a  covered  crucible, 
then  wash  it  well  with  water,  boil  it  in  nitric 
acid  and  in  nitre-muriatic  acid  (aqua  regia) ; 
again  wash  ifc  ill   water,  dry  it,-  and  expose 
at  a,  white  heat  to  a  stream  cf  dry  chlorine 
gas.    Lastly,  wash  it  with  water  and  again 
heat  it  to  dull  redness.     (Dumas.) 

4165.  Chloride  of  Iron.    The  muriate 
or  protocliloridc  cf  iron  is  obtained  by  dissolv- 
ing iron  filings  or  scales  in  hydrochloric  acid, 
and  crystallizing  by   evaporation.     It  forma 
soluble     green    crystals,   and    is    sometimes 
called  liydrated  cliloridc  of  iron.     The  above 
is  not  quite  pure,  but  to  obtain  a  pure  white 
crystalline  protochloride,  transmit  dry  hydro- 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


389 


chloric  acid  gas  over  iron  heated  to  redness 
This  is  volatile  at  a  high  temperature.  (See 
No.  117.) 

4166.  Pel-chloride  of  Iron.    The  per- 
muriate  or  sesquichloride  of  iron  is  obtained 
by  dissolving  sesquioxide  or  rust  of  iron  in 
hydrochloric  acid,  evaporating  to  the  consist- 
ence  of  syrup,   and  crystallizing.     It  forms 
red  crystals,  not  quite  pure.    The  pure  per- 
chloride  is  formed  by  passing  chlorine  over 
heated  iron.   This  is  soluble  in  •water,  alcohol, 
and  ether,  very  deliquescent  and  corrosive, 
and  is  dissipated  by  a  heat  a  little  above 
212°   Fahr.      (Cooley.)    Perchloride  of  iron 
should  not  be  given  in  mixtures  containing 
medicated  syrups  or  gum-arabic,   since  the 
latter,   as  •well  as  all  substances  containing 
tannin,  which  is  the  case  with  those  syrups, 
are  incompatible  •with  ferric  salts.     The  pro- 
per menstruum  is  simple  sugared  water;  it 
is  also  necessary  to  keep  these  mixtures  from 
the  light,  on  account  of  the  chemical  reduc- 
tion produced  by  the  latter.     (Eymael.) 

4167.  Ferrocyanide  of  Iron.    This  is 
pure  Prussian  blue.    Dissolve  9  troy  ounces 
ferrocyanide  of  potassium  in  2  pints  water, 
and  add  it  gradually,  -with  stirring,  to  1  pint 
of  the  solution  of  tersulphate  of  iron  previous- 
ly diluted  with  1  pint  water.     Filter  the  mix- 
ture, and  wash  the  precipitate  on  tho  filter 
with  boiling  water  until  tho  washings  pass 
nearly  tasteless.     Lastly  dry  it  and  rub  it 
into  powder.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4168.  Solution  of  Tersulphate  of 
Iron.  Take  2^  troy  ounces  sulphuric  acid, 
and  If  troy  ounces  nitric  acid ;  mix  them  with 
i  pint  water  in  a  largo  capsule,  heat  to  the 
boiling  point,  and  add  12  troy  ounces  sulphate 
of  iron  in  coarse  powder,  3  ounces  at  a  time, 
stirring  after  each  addition  till  effervescence 
ceases.  Continue  tho  heat  until  tho  solution 
acquires  a  reddish-brown  color,  and  is  free 
from  nitrous  odor.  "When,  nearly  cold  add 
water  to  make  it  up  to  li  pints.  ( U.  S.  Ph.) 

4169.  Ferridcyanide  of  Iron.     This  is 
better  known  as  Turnbull's   Prussian  blue. 
(See  No.  2674.) 

4170.  Tannate  of  Iron.     Dissolve   1 
part  of  tannin  in  150  of  boiling  water ;  add  9 
parts  hydrated  sesquioxide  of  iron,  freshly 
precipitated,  washed,  and  dried  in  tho  water- 
bath;    evaporate  gently  to  one  half;   filter, 
then  add  1  part  sugar,  evaporate  to  dryness, 
and  keep  in  a  close  vessel.   Or :  1  part  sesqui- 
oxide of  iron  and  2  of  tannic  acid  evaporated 
to  dryness  with  3  part:?  alcohol. 

4171.  Nitrate  of  Iron.     Tho  protoni- 
trate  of  iron  is  obtained  by  dissolving  proto- 
sulphuret  of  iron  in  dilute  nitric  acid  in  the 
cold,   and  evaporating  the  solution  in  a  vac- 
uum.     It  forms  small  green  crystals,   very 
soluble,  and  liable  to  oxidation. 

4172.  _Pernitrate  of  Iron.      A    deep 
red   liquid '  formed  by  digesting  nitric   acid 
diluted  with  about  half  its  weight  of  water 
on  the  sesquioxide  of  iron.    It  is  also  prepared 
from  the  metal.     (See  No.  116.) 

4173.  Oxide   of  Manganese.     There 
are,  according  to  Cooley,  seven  distinct  com- 
pounds of  oxygen  and  manganese,  but  the 
only  one  directly  employed  in  the  arts  is  the 
black  oxide  (Mnoxide  or  deutoxide)  of  man- 
ganese.   It  is  a  very  plentiful  mineral  produc- 
tion, and  is  found  in  great  abundance  in  many 


parts  of  Europe.  The  manganese  of  com- 
merce is  prepared  by  washing,  to  remove  the 
earthy  matter,  and  grinding  in  mills.  The 
blackest  samples  are  esteemed  the  best.  It  is 
chiefly  used  to  supply  oxygen  gas,  and  in  the 
manufacture  of  glass  and  chlorine ;  in  dye- 
ing, and  to  form  the  salts  of  manganese. 

4174.  Chloride  of  Nickel.    Neutralize 
muriatic  acid  with  oxide  (protoxide)  of  nickel, 
and  evaporate  gently ;  small  green  crystals  of 
chloride  (muriate)  of  nickel.     If  these  crystals 
are  pure,  they  are  rendered  yellow  and  anhy- 
drous by  heat ;  if  cobalt  be  present  the  salt 
retains  a  green  tint. 

4175.  Protoxide  of  Nickel.     The  pro- 
toxide  (oxide)  of  nickel  is  obtained  in  an 
anhydrous  form  by  heating  oxalate  of  nickel 
to  redness  in  an  open  vessel.     The  hydrated 
oxide  is  an  ash-grey  powder  formed  by  pre- 
cipitating the  oxalate  of  nickel  with  caustic 
potassa. 

4176.  Peroxide     of     Nickel.      The 
peroxide  (sesquioxide)  is  obtained  by  pass- 
ing chlorine  through  water  holding  the  hy- 
drated oxide  in  suspension. 

4177.  Sulphate  of  Nickel.     By  neu- 
tralizing the  protoxide  of  nickel  with  dilute 
sulphuric  acid,   green  prismatic    crystals  of 
sulphate  of  nickel  are  obtained. 

4178.  Oxalate  of  Nickel.    This  is  a 
pale  bluish-green  precipitate  formed  by  adding 
a  strong  solution  of  oxalic  acid  to  a  like  solu- 
tion of  sulphate  of  nickel. 

41 79.  Tests  for  Solutions  of  the  Salts 
of  Nickel.     Caustic  alkalies  give  a  pale-green 
precipitate,  insoluble  in  excess  of  the  precipi- 
tant, but  soluble  in  a  solution  of  carbonate  of 
ammonia,    yielding    a    greenish-blue    liquid. 
Ferrocyanide  of  potassium  gives  a  greenish- 
white    precipitate.      Sulphuretted    hydrogen 
occasions  no  change  in  solutions  of  nickel 
containing  free  mineral  acid ;  but  with  alka- 
line solutions  gives  a  black  precipitate. 

4180.  Acetate  of  Potassa.  Mix  together 
26  fluid  ounces  acetic  acid  with  12  fluid  ounces 
distilled  water;    add   gradually  1  pound  or 
more,   until  saturation,  of  carbonate  of  po- 
tassa ;  filter,  and  evaporate,  by  a  sand-bath,  to 
dryuess. 

4181.  Carbonate  of  Potassa.    This  is 
also  known  under  the  name  Salt  of  Tartar, 
and  Salt  of  Wormwood.    The  crude  carbonate 
is  obtained  by  lixiviating  (see  No.  23)  wood 
ashes,   evaporating  the  solution  to  dryness, 
and  fusing  in  iron  pots    for  several  hours. 
This  constitutes  the  potash  of  commerce. 

Another  method  ofpreparation  is  to  transfer 
tho  product  of  the  first  evaporation  to  an  oven 
furnace  so  constructed  that  the  flamo  is 
made  to  play  over  the  alkaline  mass,  kept 
constantly  stirred  with  an  iron  rod.  The 
ignition  13  continued  until  the  impurities  are 
burned  out,  and  tho  mass  becomes  of  a  blu- 
ish-white ;  this  is  commercial  pearlash.  Tho 
TJ.  S.  Pharmacoposia  directs,  for  general  pur- 
poses, tho  impure  carbonate  to  be  dissolved 
in  water,  filtered,  and  evaporated  until  it  ' 
thickens,  and  then  granulated  in  the  manner 
directed  for  tho  pure  carbonate. 

4182.  Pure  Carbonate  of  Potassa. 
Put  12  troy  ounces  bicarbonate  of  potassa,  in 
coarse  powder,  into  a  large  iron  crucible ;  heat 
gradually  until  the  water  of  crystallization  is 
driven  off,  then  raise  the  heat  to  redness  and 


390 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


maintain  it  at  that  heat  for  30  minutes.  When 
cool,  dissolve  it  in  distilled  water,  filter,  and 
evaporate  over  a  gentle  fire  until  it  thickens, 
then  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  stir  it  con- 
stantly with  an  iron  spatula  until  it  granu- 
lates. (U.S.  Ph.) 

4183.  Bicarbonate  of  Potassa.     Dis- 
solve 48  ounces  carbonate  of  potassa  in  10 
pints  distilled  water ;  pass  carbonic  acid  gas 
through  the  solution  to  saturation  (the  gas 
may  be  evolved  from  chalk  by  diluted  oil  oi 
vitriol).     Filter,  and  evaporate,  that  crystals 
may  form,  at  a  heat  not  exceeding  160°  Fahr. ; 
decant  the  clear,  and  dry  the  crystals.     (  U. 
S.  Ph.) 

4184.  Chlorate  of  Potassa.    Transmit 
chlorine  gas  through  a  moderately  strong  and 
warm  solution  of  pure  caustic  potassa,  or  its 
carbonate,  until  the  alkali  be  completely  neu- 
tralized, then  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  gently 
evaporate  until  a  pellicle  forms  on  the  surface, 
and  set  it  aside,  where  it  will  cool  very  slowly. 
Crystals  of  the  chlorate  will  form  as  the  liquor 
cools,  and  must  be  collected,  carefully  washed 
with  a  little  ice-cold  water,  and  purified  by 
re-solution  and  crystallization;   the  product 
is  pure  chlorate  of  potassa.      The  mother 
liquor,  which  contains  much  chloride  potas- 
sium,  by  evaporation  will  yield  more  crys- 
tals, less  pure  than  the  former,  or  it  may  be 
saved  for  a  future  operation.    This  salt  crys- 
tallizes in  four   and  six-sided  pearly  scales; 
dissolves  in  16  parts  of  water  at  60°,  and  in 
2k  parts  at  212°.    At  about  450°  it  undergoes 
the  igneous  fusion,  and  on  increasing  the  heat 
almost  to  redness,   effervescence  ensues,  and 
fully  39  per  cent,  of  pure  oxygen  gas  is  given 
off  and  the  residue  becomes  changed  into  chlo- 
ride of  potassium.      "When  mixed  with  in- 
flammable substances,  and  triturated,  heated, 
or  subjected  to  a  smart  blow,  it  explodes  with 
great  violence.      It    also    fulminates    when 
thrown  into  strong  acids.     (See  No.   2124.) 
(Cooley.) 

4185.  Perchlorate  of  Potassa.      To 
concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  gently  warmed 
in  an  open  vessel,  add,  in  small  portions  at  a 
time,  an  equal  weight  of  well-dried  and  finely 
powered  chloride  of  potassa.     The  bisulphate 
of  potassa  formed,  is  washed  off  with  a  little 
cold  water,  and  the  remaining  perchloride  of 
potassa  dissolved  in  boiling  water  and  crys- 
tallized. 

4186.  Chromate    of   Potassa.     The 
yellow  chromate  of  potash  of  commerce  is 
only  prepared  on  the  large  scale  from  the 
crude  chrome  ore,  and  is  the  common  source 
of  nearly  all  the  other  compounds  of  chromium. 
The  ore,  freed  as  much  as  possible  from  its  im- 
purities, is  ground  to  powder  in  a  mill,  and 
mixed  with  i  or  £  of  its  weight  of  bruised 
nitre,  and  in  this  state  exposed  to  a  powerful 
heat  for  several  hours,  on  the  hearth  of  a 
reverberatory  furnace,  during  which  time  it  i:3 
frequently  stirred  up  with  iron  rods.     The 
calcined  matter  is  next  raked  out  and  lixi- 
viated with  hot  water.     A  beautiful  yellow- 
colored  solution  results,  which  is  evaporated 
briskly  over  a  naked  fire,  when  the  chromate 
of  potash  falls  down  under  the  form  of  a  gran- 
ular yellow  salt,  which  is  removed  from  time 
to  time  with  a  ladle,  and  thrown  into  a  wooden 
vessel,  furnished  with  a  bottom  full  of  holes, 
called  the  draining-box,  where  it  is  left  to 


drain  and  dry.  In  this  state  it  forms  the 
commercial  chromate  of  potash.  By  a  second 
solution  and  crystallization,  it  may  be  obtained 
in  larger  and  more  regular  crystals.  ( Cooley. ) 

4187.  Bichromate  of  Potassa.     The 
red  chromate  of  potash  is  obtained  from  a 
concentrated  solution  of  the  yellow  chromate, 
by  adding  sulphuric  (or,  still  better,  acetic) 
acid  in  quantity  equal  to  half  that  required 
for  the  neutralization  of  the  salt.     (See  No. 
83.)  The  liquid  is  then  concentrated  by  evapo- 
ration, and  slowly  cooled,  so  that  crystals  may 
form. 

4188.  Substitute  for  Bichromate  of 
Potassa.     One  of  the  German  scientific  jour- 
nals calls  attention  to  the  fact  that  for  many 
purposes,  such  as    for    dyeing  wool    black, 
Glauber's  salt  and  sulphuric  acid  can  be  eco- 
nomically substituted  for  bichromate  of  po- 
tassa.    It  gives  the  following  recipe  for  dyeing 
100  pounds  of  loose  wool — namely,  6  pounds 
sulphate  of  soda,  2  pounds  sulphuric  acid,  and 
2  Bounds  sulphate  of  copper,  which  are  to  be 
boiled  together  for  an  hour,  and  colored  with 
40  to  50  pounds  logwood,  and  1  pound  sul- 
phate of  copper,  and  finally  colored  black  by 
means  of  a  little  sulphate  o'f  iron.     The  black 
thus  obtained  is  pronounced  to  be  beautiful, 
cheap,  and  easily  spun,  remaining  loose  and 
soft. 

4189.  Nitrite  of  Potassa.     It  is  ob- 
tained mixed  with  a  little  nitre  and  potash  by 
heating   nitre    to    redness.      To  purify    the 
residuum,  dissolve  it  in   boiling  water,   set 
aside  for  24  hours,  pour  off  the  liquid  from 
the  deposited  nitre,  neutralize  the  free  alkali 
with  acetic  acid,  and  add  twice  its  volume  of 
alcohol.     In  a  few  hours  more,  nitre  crystalli- 
zes, and  the  liquid  separates  into  two  layers ; 
the  upper  is  alcoholic  solution  of  acetate  of 
potash,   the  lower  is  solution  of  nitrate  of 
potash,  which  may  be  evaporated  to  dryness, 
or  kept  in  solution.     (Bcasley.) 

Or,  pass  nitrous  acid  gas,  formed  by  acting: 
on  1  part  of  starch  with  10  of  nitric  acid, 
through  a  solution  of  caustic  potash,  specific' 
gravity  1.38,  until  it  becomes  acid  ;  then  add' 
a  little  caustic  potash,  so  as  to  render  it  dis- 
tinctly alkaline.  It  may  then  be  kept  in  the 
liquid  form,  or  evaporated  to  dryness.  (  Cor  en- 
winder.  ) 

4190.  Permanganate     of    Potassa. 
This  consists  of  slender,   prismatic   crystals,, 
of  a  dark-purple  color,  inodorous,  and  of  a- 
sweetish,  astringent  taste.     It  is  a  powerful 
disinfectant,   and  oxidizing  agent,   from  the 
'acility  with  which  it  parts  with  its  oxygen, 
tt  has  been  found  useful  in  medicine  in  various 
ways,  and  forms  an  excellent,  though  unstable 
lair  dye.     (See  No.  1211.)    It  may  be  ob- 
tained   by    mixing    8    parts   of   peroxide   of 
manganese  with  7  parts  chlorate  of  potassa, 
joth  in  fine  powder,  adding  10  parts  of  hydrate 
of  potassa,  dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of 
water,   evaporating    to    dryness,   powdering, 
exposing  the  powder  to  a  low  red  heat  in 
a  plantinum  crucible,  dissolving  the  mass  in  a 

arge  quantity  of  water,  decanting,  evapora- 
ting, and  crystallizing.  These  crystals  are  per- 
manganate of  potassa.  The  PERMANGANATES 
or  basic  compounds  of  permanganic  (manga- 
nesic)  acid  are  all  marked  "by  their  rapid 
decomposition  when  in  contact  with  organic 
matter.  (Cooley.) 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


391 


4191.  Tests   for    Permanganate   of 
Potassa.      A    very    dilute    solution   has    a 
rose-color,  free  from  green  tinge,  and  is  in- 
stantly decolorized    by  arsenite  of  potassa, 
with  the  formation  of  a  brown  precipitate. 
( U.  S.  Ph.)    Dissolve  44   grains   granulated 
sulphate   of  iron  in  2  fluid  drachms  dilute 
sulphuric  acid ;  the  solution  should  completely 
decolorize  5  grains  of  the  permanganate  dis- 
solved in  water.     (Br.  Ph.) 

4192.  Hydrate   of  Potassa.    This   is 
also  known  under  the  name  of  caustic  potash. 
Liquor  of  potassa,  1  gallon ;  evaporate  in  a 
clean  iron  vessel  over  the  fire  until  the  ebulli- 
tion  being  finished,  the  hydrate   of  potassa 
liquefies ;  pour  this  into  proper  moulds.     A 
pale  greyish  or  bluish  solid,  very  soluble  in 
water    and    alcohol..  It    should    be    totally 
soluble  in   alcohol.     Its   solution   should  be 
scarcely  affected  by  the  nitrates  of  baryta  and 
silver.    It  is  chiefly  used  as  a  caustic,  and  in 
chemistry.     (Cooley.) 

4193.  Potassa  with  Lime.    Rub  to- 
gether, in  a  warm  mortar,  1  ounce  each  of 
hydrate  of  potassa  and  quicklime,  and  keep 
the  powder  from  the  air  in  a  well- stopped 
bottle.    This  is  a  caustic,  but  less  manageable 
than  either  nitrate  of  silver  (lunar  caustic.) 
or  hydrate  of  potassa  (caustic  potash.) 

4194.  Nitrate  of  Potassa.    Called  also 
nitre  and  saltpetre.     This  salt  is  spontaneously 
generated  in  the  soil,  owing  to  the  action  of 
the  atmosphere,  and  crystallizes  upon  its  sur- 
face in  various  parts  of  the  world,  especially 
in  the  East  Indies.    It  is  also  produced  artifi- 
cially by  exposing  a  mixture  of  calcareous 
soil  and   animal  matter  to  the   atmosphere, 
when  nitrate  of  lime  is  slowly  formed,  and  is 
extracted  by  lixiviation.    The  liquid  is  then 
decomposed  by  adding  carbonate  of  potash, 
by  which  carbonate  of  lime  is  precipitated 
and  nitrate  of  potash  remains  in  solution. 

4195.  To  Purify  Nitre.     Nitre  or  salt- 
petre is  purified  for  medicinal  use  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner :  Dissolve  4  pounds  commercial 
nitre  in  1  quart  boiling  distilled  water ;  with- 
draw the  heat,  and  stir  constantly  as  it  cools. 
The  minute  crystals,  thus  obtained,  are  to  be 
drained,  and  washed  in  a  glass  or  earthenware 
percolator,  with  cold  distilled  water,  until  the 
washings  cease  to  give  a  precipitate  with  a  so- 
lution of  nitrate  of  silver.     The  contents  of 
the  percolator  are  then  to  be  withdrawn  and 
dried  in  an  oven.     (Cooley.) 

4196.  Tartrate  of  Potassa.     Dissolve 
8  ounces    carbonate  of  potash    in  2  quarts 
distilled  water ;  whilst  boiling  hot,  add  gradu- 
ally 1  pound,  more  or  less,  of  bitartrate  of 
potassa    (cream  of   tartar)    in  fine   powder, 
until  the   solution  is    neutralized,   or  ceases 
to  change   the  color  of  either  blue   or   red- 
dened litmus  paper.     Filter  through  muslin, 
and  evaporate  until  a  pellicle  forms  on  the 
surface ;  then  set  it  aside  to  crystallize.    After 
12  hours,   collect  the  crystals,  dry  them  on 
bibulous  paper,  and  keep  preserved  from  the 
air. 

4197.  Bitartrate  of  Potassa.     This  is 
well  known  under  the  name  of  cream  of  tar- 
tar, and  is  found  deposited  as  a  crust  on  the 
sides  of  the  casks  and  vats  used  for  the  fer- 
mentation of  grape  juice.     The  deposit  from 
white  wine  is  white  tartar;    that  from  red 
wine  is  red  tartar,  or  argol.    It  is  purified  by 


boiling  it  in  water,  and  crystallizing;  it  is 
then  again  dissolved  in  boiling  water,  and 
decolorized  with  charcoal  (see  No.  1729),  an'l 
aluminous  clay ;  the  resulting  clear  liquid  is 
allowed  to  cool  slowly,  forming  crystals  of 
the  cream  of  tartar  of  commerce. 

4198.  Bromide  of  Potassium.    Put  1 
troy  ounce  iron  filings  into  1J  pints  distilled 
water;   add  2  troy  ounces  bromine,  stirring 
frequently  during  30  minutes;  heat  gently 
until  the  liquid  assumes  a  greenish  color,  and 
add  gradually  2£  troy  ounces  pure  carbonate 
of  potassa  (previously  dissolved  in  1}  pints 
distilled  water),  until  it  ceases  to  produce  a 
precipitate;  continue  the  heat  for  30  minutes, 
then  filter.     Wash  the  precipitate  with  1  pint 
boiling  distilled  water,  and  filter.    Mix  the 
filtered  liquids,  and  crystallize  by  evaporation. 
Dry  the  crystals  on  bibulous  paper  and  keep 
them  in  a  well-stoppered  bottle.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4199.  Chloride  of  Potassium.     This  is 
obtained  from  the  mother  liquor  after  making 
chlorate  of  potassa  (see  No.  4184),  by  evap- 
orating it  to  dryness,  and  heating  it  to  a  dull 
redness ;  it  is  then  dissolved  in  water,  puri- 
fied by  defecation  and  crystallized  by  evap- 
oration. 

4200.  Ferridcyanide  of  Potassium. 
This  is  the  red  prussiate  of  potash,  and  is  ob- 
tained from  a  solution  of  1  part  ferrocyanide 
of  potassium  in  16  parts  cold  water,  by  pass- 
ing chlorine  gas  slowly  through  it,  with  con- 
stant agitation,  until  the  liquid  appears  of  a 
reddish  green  color,  and  ceases  to  give  a  blue 
precipitate,  or  even  a  blue  tinge,  to  a  solution 
of  a  sesquisalt  of  iron,  an  excess  of  chlorine 
being  carefully  avoided.    The  liquor  is  then 
evaporated  till  a  pellicle  forms  on  the  surface, 
filtered  while  hot,  and  set  aside  to  cool ;  the 
crystals  are  again  dissolved  and  crystallized. 
( Cooley. ) 

4201.  Ferrocyanide  of  Potassium. 
This  yellow  prussiate  of  potash  is  the  prus- 
siate of  potash  of  commerce.  It  is  obtained 
by  exposing  10  parts  potash  or  pearlash ;  10 
parts  coke,  cinders,  or  coal ;  and  5  parts  iron 
turnings,  all  in  coarse  powder,  to  a  full  red 
heat  in  an  open  crucible,  stirring  occasionally 
until  small  jets  of  purple  flame  are  no  longer 
seen.  "When  cool,  the  soluble  matter  is  dis- 
solved out  of  it,  the  solution  filtered,  evapo- 
rated, and  crystallized.  The  crystals  ob- 
tained are  redissolved  in  hot  water  and  cooled 
very  slowly,  forming  large  yellow  crystals  of 
the  ferrocyanide  of  potassium  of  commerce. 
In  order  to  obtain  a  pure  article,  fuse  efflo- 
resced commercial  prussiate  of  potash  in  a 
glass  vessel,  dissolve  the  fused  mass  in  water, 
neutralize  any  excess  of  alkali  with  acetic 
acid,  and  precipitate  the  salt  with  strong  al- 
cohol ;  wash  the  precipitate  with  a  little  weak 
alcohol,  redissolve  it  in  water,  and  crystallize. 
(Cooley.) 

4202.  Cyanide  (Cyanuret)  of  Potas- 
sium. Mix  thoroughly  8  ounces  of  dry  ferro- 
cyanide of  potassium  and  3  ounces  dry  car- 
bonate of  potassa ;  throw  the  mixture  into  a 
deep  red-hot  earthen  crucible,  the  heat  being 
sustained  until  effervescence  ceases,  and  the 
fluid  portion  of  the  mass  becomes  colorless; 
after  a  few  minutes'  rest,  to  allow  the  contents 
to  settle,  the  clear  portion  is  poured  from  the 
heavy  black  sediment  at  the  bottom  on  a 
clean  marble  slab ;  and,  while  yet  warm,  bro- 


392 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


ken  up  and  placed  in  •well-closed  bottles. 
When  pure,  this  salt  is  colorless  and  odorless, 
its  crystals  are  cubic  or  octahedral,  and  are 
anhydrous.  If  it  effervesces  with  acids,  it 
contains-  carbonate  of  potassa.  If  it  be  yellow, 
it  contains  iron.  (Liebig.) 

4203.  Iodide  of  Potassium.     This  im- 
portant medicinal  compound  is  obtained  in 
various    ways.     The    United    States    Phar- 
macopoeia   gives  the    following  formula  for 
its  preparation :   To  6  troy  ounces  potassa, 
dissolved  in  3  pints  boiling  distilled  water, 
add  gradually  finely  powdered  iodine,  stirr- 
ing after  each  addition  until  the  solution  be- 
comes colorless,  and  continue  the  addition 
until  the  liquid  remains  slightly  colored  from 
excess  of  iodine.     (This  will  require  about  16 
troy  ounces  of  iodine.)    Evaporate  the  solu- 
tion to  dryness,  stirring  in  2  troy  ounces  fine- 
ly powdered  charcoal  towards  the  close  of  the 
operation,  so  that  it  may  be  intimately  mixed 
with  the  dried  salt.    Rub  this  to  powder,  and 
heat  it  to  dull  redness  in  an  iron  crucible, 
maintaining  that  temperature  for  15  minutes. 
After  it  has  cooled,  dissolve  out  the  saline 
matter  with  distilled  water,  filter  the  solution, 
evaporate,  and  set  it  aside  to  crystallize.    An 
additional  quantity  of  crystals  may  bo  ob- 
tained from  the  mother  water  by  further  eva- 
poration. 

A  solution  of  iodide  of  potassium  keeps 
decidedly  better  when  there  is  neither  plain 
nor  aromatic  syrup  or  sugar  in  it.  "W"hen 
gargles  of  honey  of  roses,  with  alum  and 
water,  have  a  black  color,  though  that  of 
honey  be  of  the  proper  shade,  this  is  owing  to 
the  presence  of  iron  iu  the  alum,  which  is  by 
no  means  a  rare  occurrence. 

4204.  Sulphuret  of  Potassium.     Rub 
together  1  ounce  sublimed  sulphur,  and  2 
ounces  dry  carbonate  of  potassa;    heat    it 
gradually  in  a  covered  crucible  until  it  ceases 
to  swell  and  is  completely  melted.     Pour  the 
liquid  on  to  a  marble  slab,  and,  when  cold, 
break  the  mass  into  pieces,  and  keep  in  well- 
stopped  bottle  of  green  glass.     ( U.  8.  Ph. ) 

4205.  Sulphocyanide  of  Potassium. 
Take  3  parts  cyanide  of  potassium,  and  1  part 
sulphur ;  digest  them  for  some  time  in  6  parts 
water,  then  add  3  parts  more  water;  filter, 
evaporate,  and    crystallize.      It  forms  long, 
slender,    colorless  prisms,   which  arc  anhy- 
drous, deliquescent,  and  fusible;   very  solu- 
ble in  water  and  in  alcohol,  and  not  poison- 
ous. 

4206.  Acetate  of  Soda.     This  is  pre- 
pared from  carbonate  of  soda,  by  the  same 
method-  directed  for  acetate  of  potassa  (sec 
No.  4180),  except  that  the  resulting  solution 
is  evaporated  to  a  pellicle,  and  set  aside  to 
crystallize. 

4207.  Sulphate  9f  Soda.     Also  called 
Glauber's  salt.     This  is  usually  obtained  by 
dissolving  2  pounds  of  the  chloride  of  sodium 
left  after  the  distillation  of  muriatic  acid  (see 
No.  3883)  in  1  quart  of  boiling  water ;  the  so- 
lution is  next  neutralized  with  carbonate  of 
lime  evaporated,  and  crystallized.     It  is  sol- 
uble in  cold  water,  its  solubility  decreasing 
as  the  temperature  of  the  water  is  raised; 
insoluble  in  alcohol,  and  fuses  when  heated. 

4208.  Carbonate  of  Soda.     The    car- 
bonate of  soda  of  commerce  is  either  pre- 
pared by  lixiviating  the  ashes  of  sea- weed,  or 


from  sulphate  of  soda.  The  ashes  of  marine 
plants  have  been  long  an  article  of  commerce, 
under  the  names  of  barilla,  barilla  ashes,  kelp, 
blanquette,  &c.,  but  the  carbonate  made  from 
them  is  of  a  very  impure  description.  That 
made  from  the  siilphate  is  much  purer,  and, 
when  the  process  is  well  managed,  merely 
contains  a  trace  of  sulphuric  acid.  The  sul- 
phate of  soda  is  mixed  with  an  equal  weight 
of  chalk  and  about  half  its  weight  of  coal, 
each  being  previously  ground  to  powder,  and 
the  mixture  is  exposed  to  a  great  heat  in  a  re- 
verberatory  furnace,  and  during  the  calcina- 
tion is  frequently  stirred  with  a  long  iron  rod. 
The  dark  grey  product  usually  contains  about 
22  or  23  per  cent,  of  carbonate  of  soda.  This 
is  now  lixiviated  with  tepid  water,  and  the 
solution,  after  defecation,  evaporated  to  dry- 
ness,  mixed  with  a  little  sawdust,  and  roasted 
in  a  reverberatory  furnace  at  a  heat  not  ex- 
ceeding 700°  Fahr.,  until  all  the  sulphur  is 
expelled.  The  product  now  receives  the 
name  of  soda-ash,  or  soda-salt,  and  contains 
about  C0$  of  alkali.  It  may  bo  purified  by 
solution  in  water,  defecation,  evaporation, 
and  crystallization ;  it  then  becomes  commer- 
cial crystallized  carbonate  of  soda,  consisting 
of  large  transparent  crystals,  which  effloresce 
by  exposure  to  the  air,  crumbling  into  a 
white  dry  powder.  The  carbonate  used  in 
medicine  is  prepared  from  the  commercial 
crystals  by  dissolving,  filtering,  and  careful 
crystallization. 

4209.  Bicarbonate  of  Soda.    This  may 
be  prepared  from  a  solution  of  carbonate  of 
soda  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  for  bicar- 
bonate of  potassa.     (See  No.  4183.)    Tile  U. 
S.  Pharmacopoeia  directs  carbonate  of  soda  in 
small  pieces  to  be  enclosed  in  a  box  (having 
an  air-tight  lid,  and  an  inner  bottom  perfora- 
ted with  holes),  and  thus  subjected,  until  sat- 
urated,  to   a    stream  of   carbonic  acid    gas 
previously  passed  through  water. 

Cooley  recommends  the  following  process  : 
Mix  together  1  part  carbonate  of  soda  with 
2  parts  dried  carbonate  of  soda,  both  in  pow- 
der, and  surround  them  with  an  atmosphere 
of  carbonic  acid  pas,  under  pressure.  Let  the 
action  go  on  till  no  more  gas  is  absorbed, 
which  will  generally  occupy  10  to  14  hours, 
according  to  the  pressure  employed,  then  re- 
move the  salt  and  dry  it  at  a  heat  not  above 
120°  Fahr. 

4210.  Phosphate  of   Soda.      Mix    10 
pounds  powdered  bone  ashes  with   44  fluid 
ounces  sulphuric  acid ;  add  gradually  6  pints 
water,  and  digest  for  3  days,  replacing  the 
water  which  evaporates;   then   add  6  pints 
boiling  water,  strain  through  linen,  and  wash 
the  residue  on  the  filter  with  boiling  water. 
Mix  the  liquors,  and,  after  defecation,  decant 
and  evaporate  to  6  pints ;  let  the  impurities 
again  settle,  and  neutralize   the   clear  fluid, 
heated  to  boiling,  with  a  solution  of  carbonate 
of  soda  in  slight  excess ;  crystals  will  be  de- 
posited as  the  solution  cools,  and  by  suc- 
cessively evaporating,  adding  a  little  soda  to 
the  mother  liquor  till  it  is  feebly  alkaline,  and 
cooling,    more    crystals    may    be     obtained. 
Keep  it  in  closed  vessels.     (Ed.  Ph.) 

4211.  Hyposulphite  of   Soda.     Mix 
together  1  pound  dried  carbonate  of  soda  and 
10  ounces  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  slowly  heat 
the  powder  in  a  porcelain  dish  until  the  sul- 


MISCELLANEOUS   CHEMICALS. 


393 


phur  melts ;  stir  freely,  to  expose  it  to  the  at- 
mosphere, until  the  incandescence  flags,  then 
dissolve  the  mass  in  water,  and  immediately 
boil  the  filtered  liquid  with  some  flowers  of 
sulphur ;  lastly,  carefully  concentrate  the  so- 
lution for  crystallization.  ( Coolcy. ) 

It  may  also  be  prepare!  by  dissolving  8  parts 
carbonate  of  soda  in  16  parts  water;  add  1 
part  sublimed  sulphur,  and  pass  sulphurous 
acid  gas,  in  excess,  into  the  solution ;  boil  the 
liquid  in  a  glass  matrass  for  a  few  minutes, 
filter,  gently  evaporate  the  filtrate  to  -J-  its 
volume,  and  set  it  aside  in  a  cool  place  to  crys- 
tallize. (Paris  Codex.) 

4212.  Tungstate  of  Soda.  This  is 
formed  by  dissolving  tungstic  acid  in  a  con- 
centrated solution  of  pure  soda.  Tungstic 
acid  is  a  yellow  powder  obtained  by  digesting 
native  tungstate  of  lime,  finely  powdered,  in 
nitric  acid.  It  forms  TXJNGSTATES  with  metals 
and  bases. 

4213.  Potassio-Tartrate  of  Soda. 
Known  in  commerce  as  Seignettc's  or  Eochclle 
salt.  Dissolve  12  ounces  carbonate  of  soda 
in  2  quarts  boiling  water ;  add  gradually  16 
ounces  bitartrate  of  potassa  in  fine  powder. 
Strain,  evaporate  to  a  pellicle  or  crust  (see  No. 
9),  and  set  it  aside  to  crystallize.  The  mother 
liquor  may  be  further  evaporated  for  a  second 
supply  of  crystals.  (Coolcy.)  Tho  U.  S. 
Pharmacopoeia  adopts  the  same  method,  but 
directs  5  pints  of  boiling  water  to  be  used. 

4214.  Bromide   of   Sodium.     This   is 
now  employed  to  a  great  extent  instead  of 
bromide  of  potassium;  it  is  more  active  than 
the  latter,  is  more  quickly  absorbed,  and  more 
regularly  eliminated.    To  prepare  it  pure  and 
in  large   quantities  the  following  method  is 
recommended :  Bromide  of  ammonium  is  de- 
composed by  an  equivalent  quantity  of  caustic 
or  carbonate  of  soda,  which,  of  course,  must 
be  free  from  sulphuric  and  hydrochloric  acids. 
The  solution  yields,  after  evaporation,  small 
cubes  of  anhydrous  bromide  of  sodium. 

4215.  Chloride  of  Sodium.    This  is  a 
muriate  of  soda,  or  common  table  salt,  and  is 
largely  obtained  by  the  evaporation  of  sea 
water,  or  from  the  water  of  salt  springs.     It 
dissolves  in  about  2i  parts  of  water  at  GO0 
Fahr.;  u  insoluble  in  pure  alcohol;  fuses  at  a 
red  heat;  and  at  a  higher  temperature  becomes 
volatile. 

4216.  Iodide  of  Sodium.     This  is  ob- 
tained from  soda  in  the  same  manner  as  iodide 
of  potassium.     (See  No.  4203.) 

4217.  Nitro-Prusside  of  Sodium.    To 
213  parts  of  powdered  ferroprussiate  of  potash, 
in  a  porceliain  basin,  add  4CO  parts  of  nitric 
acid  of  1.42  density  (or  337£  parts  at  1.50). 
adding  all  the  acid  at  once.    "When  dissolved, 
transfer  to  a  bolt-head,  and  digest  in  a  water- 
bath  until  the  solution  precipitates   salts  of 
protoxide  of  iron  cf  a  slato  color.     Neutral- 
ize, when  cold,  with  a  cold  solution  cf  car- 
bonate of  soda;  theii  boil,  and  separate  the 
precipitate  by  filtration.    Evaporate  the  liquid 
again,  filter,  and  allow  the  nitrates  of  potash 
and  soda  to  crystallize  out.     Evaporate  the 
liquid  again,  and  remove  the  prismatic  crys- 
tals of    nitro-prussido   as  they  form.     They 
may  be  dissolved  in  water  and  recrystallized 
by  cooling. 

4218.  Acetate  of  Ammonia.    Mix  to- 
gether equal  parts  of  sal-ammoniac  and  ace- 


tate of  potassa,  and  distill ;  binacetate  of 
ammonia  passes  over  into  the  receiver,  as  an 
oily  liquid,  which,  on  cooling,  forms  a  radiated 
crystalline  mass.  By  passing  dry  aminoniacal 
gas  into  this  salt,  melted  by  a  gentle  heat,  it 
is  transformed  into  the  neutral  acetate,  and 
becomes  solid  and  inodorous. 

Or :  By  saturating  strong  acetic  acid  with 
ammonia,  and  evaporating  over  sulphuric  acid 
in  vacuo,  crystals  of  acetate  of  ammonia  may 
be  obtained.  Tery  soluble  both  in  alcohol 
and  water,  and  very  deliquescent. 

4219.  Carbonate  of  Ammonia.    The 
Neutral    Carbonate  is    prepared  by  mixing 
equal  parts  sal-ammoniac,  powdered  and  well 
dried,  and  dried  carbonate  of  soda,  and  sub- 
liming, by  a  gradually  increased  heat,  from 
an  earthen  retort  into  a  refrigerated  receiver. 

4220.  Sesquicarbonate  of  Ammonia. 
This  is  the  commercial  carbonate  of  ammo- 
nia, and  is  prepared  as  follows;     Sal-ammo- 
niac, or  pure  commercial  sulphate  of  ammo- 
nia, and  chalk,  equal  parts,  both  dry  and  in 
powder.    Mix  and  sublime  from  an  iron  pot, 
into  a  long  earthen  or  leaden  receiver,  well 
cooled.     The  receiver  is  usually  fitted  with  a 
moveable  lead  cover,  secured  by  a  water-joint, 
and  has  an  open  lead  pipe  in  the  bottom,  to 
allow  the  liquid  products  of  the  distillation  to 
drain  off  into  a  second  receiver.    "When  made 
of  the  impure  sulphate  of  ammonia,  it  must 
be  re-sublimed  in  iron  pots,  furnished  with 
leaden  heads  kept  cool.    A  little  water  is 
commonly  introduced  into  the  subliming  pots, 
to  render  the  product  translucent.     The  heat 
is  usually  applied  by  means  of  a  common 
furnace,  but  a  steam  or  water  bath  is  prefera- 
ble, as  the  temperature  required  for  this  pur- 
pose does  not  exceed  200°  Fahr. 

4221.  Bicarbonate  of  Ammonia.    Tho 
commercial  carbonate  reduced  to  fine  powder, 
and  exposed  to  the  air  for  24  hours,  becomes 
a   bicarbonate   spontaneously.      It  can  also 
be  obtained  bypassing  a  stream  of  carbonic 
acid  gas  through  a  solution  of  the  sesquicar- 
bonate  until  saturated,  and  drying  the  crystals 
which  form  without  heat. 

4222.  Muriate  of  Ammonia.      Also 
called  sal-ammoniac  and  hydrochloratc  of  am- 
monia.   This  substance  was  formerly  prepared 
in  Egypt  by  the  sublimation  of  the  soot  from 
camels'  dung,  which  yields  from  $  to  J  its 
weight.     The  sal-ammoniac  of  commerce  is 
now  wholly  prepared  at  the  great  chemical 
works,  and  never  by  the  small  consumer,  by 
whom  it  is  merely  occasionally  refined  or 
purified.    The  crude  ammoniacal  salt  of  the 
gas-works  is  placed  in  iron  pots,  lined  with 
clay,  and  a  leaden  dome  or  head  adapted,  and 
heat  applied  until  the  whole  has  sublimed. 
"When  the  crude  salt  is  a  sulphate,  it  is  mixed 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  muriate  of  soda 
before  sublimation,  and  the  sal-ammoniac  is 
formed  by  the  double  decomposition  of  the 
ingredients.      The  preparation  of  sal-ammo- 
niac from  bone-spirit  salt  is  nearly  similar. 
The  sal-ammoniac  of  commerce  is  found  under 
the  form  of  large  hemispherical,  cup-like  cakes 
or  masses,  having  a  semi-crystalline  texture, 
and    varying    in  weight  from    100  to  1000 
pounds.     It  forms  a  clear  and  colorless  solu- 
tion with  water,   and  wholly   volatilizes  by 
heat.     Mixed  with  lime  or  caustic  potassa,  it 
evolves   the  pungent  odor  of   ammonia;  it 


394= 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


gives  a  white  curdy  precipitate  "with  nitrate  of 
silver.  The  sal-ainrnoniac  of  commerce  is 
generally  sufficiently  pure  for  all  the  purposes 
of  the  arts,  but  when  wanted  of  greater  purity, 
it  may  be  broken  into  pieces  and  re-sublimed 
from  "an  earthenware  vessel  into  a  large  re- 
ceiver of  earthenware  or  glass,  in  which  state 
it  is  known  as  "flowers  of  sal-ammoniac," 
from  being  in  fine  powder.  Chemically  pure 
hydrochlorate  of  ammonia  may  be  prepared 
by  adding  the  pure  carbonate  of  ammonia 
to  dilute  hydrochloric  acid  until  saturated. 
(Cooley.) 

4223.  Sulphate  of  Ammonia.     The 
commercial  sulpnate  is  obtained  by  saturating 
with  weak  oil    of  vitriol  the    ammoniacal 
liquor  of  the  gas-works,  or  bone-spirit.    For 
medicinal  purposes  it  is  prepared  by  satura- 
ting dilute  sulphuric  acid  with  sesquicarbon- 
ate  of  ammonia  in  slight  excess ;  it  is  then 
filtered,  evaporated  by  a  gentle  heat,  and  crys- 
tallized. 

4224.  Murexide.    This  is  ik.&  purpurate 
of  ammonia,  and  consists  of  iridescent  crys- 
tals, which  reflect  a  beautiful  green  color,  but 
transmit  an  equally  fine  reddish-purple  color. 
It  is    obtained    from    alloxan,  a    substance 
formed  by  the  action  of  nitric  acid  on  uric 
acid. 

4225.  Iodide  of  Ammonium.    Place 
a  portion  of  iodine  in  a  flask  with  a  little  wa- 
ter ;  add  to  it  a  solution  of  hydrosulphuret  of 
ammonia,  until  the    mixture    loses  its   red 
color,  and  is  turbid  from  the  separation  of 
sulphur;  by  shaking  the  flask,  the  most  of 
the  sulphur  will  form  into  a  mass.    Pour  off 
the  liquid,  and  boil  it  until  all  odor  of  sul- 
phuretted hydrogen  and  of  ammonia  is  lost. 
Then  filter  it,  and  evaporate  it,  constantly 
stirring,  over  a  flame,  until  it  becomes  pasty, 
and  then  in  a  water-bath  until  it  forms  a  dry 
salt.     (U.  S.  Dis.) 

4226.  Sulphocyanide  of  Ammonium. 
Saturate  2  parts  of  common  water  of  ammo- 
nia (specific  gravity  0.950)  with  sulphuretted 
hydrogen ;  and  add  (5  parts  of  the  same  am- 
monia.   To  this  mixture  add  2  parts  of  sul- 
phur, and  the  product  of  the  distillation  of  6 
parts  of  prussiato  of  potash,  3  of  sulphuric 
acid,  and  18  of  water.     Digest  till  the  sulphur 
is  no  longer  acted  on,  and  the  liquid  becomes 
yellow.     Boil  the  liquid  till  it  becomes  color- 
less, filter,  evaporate,  and  crystallize. 

4227.  Bromide  of  Ammonium.    For 
the  preparation  of  bromide  of  ammonium, 
bromine  is  added  very  gradually  to  diluted 
ammonia.      The  ensuing  reaction    produces 
much  heat,  which  may  cause  ammonia  and 
bromine  to  volatilize  with  the  escaping  nitro- 
gen.   The  combination,  therefore,  is  effected 
'm  a  "Wolffe's  apparatus,  which  will  condense 
and  retain  both  perfectly.    The  evaporation 
of  the  fluid  is  also  best  done  in  an  iron  retort 
connected  with  a  stoneware  receiver,  in  which 
ammonia  and  some  bromide  of  ammonium  are 
condensed. 

4228.  Sulphuret  of  Ammonium. 
Usually  called  hydrosulphuret  of  ammonia. 
This  is  prepared  from  strong  liquor  of  ammo- 
nia, by  saturating  it  with  sulphuretted  hydro- 
gen gas,  and  then  adding  a  second  portion  of 
liquor  of  ammonia,  equal  in  strength  and 
quantity  to  that  first  used.  Keep  it  in  well- 
stoppered  bottles.  (See  No.  1203.) 


4229.  Manganate   of   Baryta.     The 

manganate  of  baryta,  and  of  other  alkalies, 
is  formed  by  igniting  the  nitrate  of  the  alka- 
lies with  peroxide  of  manganese,  with  excess 
of  air,  and  dissolving  in  water.  (Booth.) 

4230.  Nitrate  of  Baryta.     It  is  pre- 
pared in  the  same  manner    as    muriate   of 
baryta  (see  No.  4234),  substituting  pure  nitric 
acid  for  the  muriatic  acid. 

4231.  Sulphate    of    Baryta.       This 
occurs  as  a  native  mineral,  and  is  white,  if 
pure.     It  occasionally  contains  iron,  which 
may  be  removed  by  washing  first  with  dilute 
sulphuric  acid,  and  afterwards  with  pure  wa- 
ter.    (See  No.  2697.) 

4232.  Acetate    of    Baryta.      Dilute 
acetic    acid   neutralized    with    carbonate    of 
baryta,  and  evaporated  to  form  crystals. 

4233.  Carbonate  of  Baryta.    A  heavy 
white  powder  found  in  the  crude  state  abun- 
dantly in  nature,   and  sufficiently  pure  for 
general  purposes.     The  pure  carbonate  may 
be  precipitated  from  a  solution  of  chloride  of 
barium  by  the  addition  of  any  pure  alkaline 
carbonate,  washing  and  drying  the  product. 
(Cooley.) 

4234.  Chloride    of    Barium.      Also 
called  Muriate  of  Baryta.    Mix  gradually  10 
ounces  carbonate  of  baryta  in  small  pieces, 
with  -J-  pint  muriatic  acid  diluted  with  1  quart 
distilled  water;    evaporate  to  a  pellicle  or 
crust  (see  No.  9),  and  set  aside  to  crystallize. 

4235.    Protoxide  of  Barium.     This  is 
the  oxide  of  barium  or  baryta.     (See   No. 


4236.  Peroxide  of  Barium.     The  per- 
oxide or  binoxide  is  prepared  from  pure  baryta, 
heated  to  a  full  rod  heat  in  a  porcelain  tube,  and 
exposed  to  a  stream  of  pure  dry  oxygen  gas. 
Instead  of  baryta,  its  nitrate  may  be  used, 
but  the  nitrous  fumes  must  be  'allowed  to 
pass  off  entirely  before  applying  the  oxygen. 

4237.  Sulphuret  of  Barium.     Calcine 
and  reduce  to  powder  2  pounds  sulphate  of 
baryta,  mix  it  with  4  ounces  finely  powdered 
charcoal  ;  submit  the  mixture  for  3  hours  to 
a  low  white  heat  in  a  covered  crucible.    When 
cool,  powder,  and  boil  for  5  minutes  in  5 
pints  water;    decant  the  clear,   and   repeat 
the  operation  with  3  pints  more  water  ;  unite 
the  liquors,  and  crystallize  by  cooling. 

4238.  Carbonate  of  Lithia.     Precipi- 
tate a  solution  of  sulphate  of  lithia,  by  a 
strong  solution  of  sesquicarbonate  of  ammo- 
nia; collect  tho  precipitate,  drain  and  press  it, 
wash  it  with  a  little  rectified  spirit,  and  dry  it. 
Dissolve  in  boiling  water,  and  crystallize  by 
slow  evaporation. 

4239.  Sulphate    of    Lithia.      Finely 
powdered  petalite,  1  part  ;  fluorspar,  2  parts  ; 
mix,  add  oil  of  vitriol,  10  parts,  and  heat  the 
mixture  as  long  as  acid  vapors  are  evolved. 
The  residuum  must  bo  dissolved  in  pure  water 
of   ammonia,  boiled,    filtered,    the    solution 
evaporated  to  dryness,   and    tho    dry   mass 
heated  to  redness.     The  matter  left  is  pure 
sulphate  of  lithia.     (Bcrzelius.) 

Petalite  or  Spondumene  is  a  mineral  found 
in  various  parts  of  Europe,  also  in  Massa- 
chusetts and  Connecticut.  (Sooth.) 

4240.  Carbonate  of  Magnesia.    There 
are  two  simple  carbonates  or  magnesia,  the 
heavy  and  the  light. 

The  heavy  carbonate  is  prepared  from  a 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


395 


saturated  solution  of  sulphate  of  magnesia,  1 
part  by  measure;  water,  3  parts;  heat  to  the 
boiling  point,  then  add  cold  saturated  solu- 
tion of  carbonate  of  soda,  1  part;  boil,  with 
constant  agitation,  till  effervescence  ceases, 
then  add  boiling  water,  100  parts,  agitate  well, 
decant  off  the  clear  liquid,  drain,  and  wash  the 
precipitate  with  hot  water,  in  a  linen  cloth, 
and  finish  the  drying  by  heating  it  in  an  iron 
pot. 

The  light  carbonate  is  obtained  from  4 
pounds  sulphate  of  magnesia,  and  4  pounds 
9  ounces  carbonate  of  soda,  each  separately 
dissolved  in  2  gallons  water.  Mix  and  boil 
the  liquors,  constantly  stirring  for  15  minutes ; 
after  subsidence,  decant  the  clear,  wash  the 
precipitate  with  boiling  water,  and  dry  it. 
The  carbonate  of  magnesia  of  commerce  is 
usually  made  up  into  cakes  or  dice,  while 
drying,  or  is  permitted  to  drain  and  dry  in 
masses,  which  are  then  cut  into  shapes  with 
a  thin  knife.  It  is  powdered  by  rubbing  it 
through  a  wire  sieve.  (Cooley.) 

4241.  Sulphate  of  Magnesia.    This  is 
the  well-known   Epsom  salts  of  commerce, 
called  after  the  saline  springs  of  Epsom,  in 
England,  from  the  waters  of  which  it  was 
originally    obtained.     It  is  prepared  on  the 
large  scale  from  Dolomite,  or  magnesian  lime- 
stone.     Heat    the    mineral    with    sufficient 
dilute  sulphuric  acid  to  convert  all  its  car- 
bonate into  sulphate  of  lime,  wash  out  all 
the   sulphate  ot  magnesia  with  hot  water, 
and,    after    defecation,   evaporate   and  crys- 
tallize. 

Or,  from  bittern.  Boil  the  residual  liquor, 
or  mother-water  of  sea-salt,  for  some  hours, 
skim,  and  decant  the  clear,  then  concentrate 
by  evaporation,  and  run  the  solution  into 
wooden  coolers;  in  1  or  2  days  \  part  of 
Epsom  salts  will  have  crystallized  out.  This 
is  called  singles.  By  re-solution  in  water, 
and  re-crystallization,  doubles,  or  Epsom  salts, 
fit  for  the  market,  are  obtained. 

4242.  Sulphuret  of  Magnesia.    The 
sulphide,  or  sulphuret,  is  prepared  by  fusing 
together,  in  a  covered  crucible,  5  parts  cal- 
cined magnesia  and  4  parts  sulphur. 

4243.  Chloride  of  Magnesium.    Dis- 
solve magnesia  in  muriatic  acid,  evaporate  to 
dryness,  add  an  equal  weight  of  muriate  of 
ammonia,  project  the  mixture  into  a  red  hot 
platinum  crucible,  and  continue  the  heat  until 
tranquil   fusion  is    attained.     Pour  out    the 
fused  mass  on  to  a  clean  stone ;  and,  when 
solid,  break  it  into  pieces,  and  transfer  to  a 
warm,  dry  bottle.     (Cooley.) 

Or:  Dissolve  magnesia  in  muriatic  acid; 
evaporate  to  a  specific  gravity  of  1.384;  and 
put  it,  while  hot,  into  a  wide-mouthed  flask 
to  crystallize.  (Paris  Codex.)  This  chloride 
of  magnesium  is  also  called  hydrochlorate  or 
muriate  of  magnesia. 

4244.  Acetate   of  Lime.      Neutralize 
acetic  acid  with  prepared  chalk  (see  No.  1292), 
filter  the  solution,  evaporate  by  a  gentle  heat, 
and  allow  to  crystallize. 

4245.  Chloride  of  Lime — called  also 
hypochlorite  and  oxymnriate  of  lime,  bleaching 
powder,  and  chlorinated   lime — is  seldom,  if 
ever,  made  on  the  small  scale,  as  it  can  be 
purchased  of  the  large  manufacturer  of  better 
quality  and  cheaper  than  it  could  possibly  be 
made  by  the  druggist.     On  the  large  scale  the 


chlorine  is  generated  in  leaden  vessels,  heated 
by  steam,  and  the  gas,  after  passing  through 
water,  is  conveyed  by  a  leaden  tube  into  an 
apartment  built  of  silicious  sandstone,  and  ar- 
ranged with  shelves  or  trays,  containing 
fresh-slacked  lime,  placed  one  above  another 
about  an  inch  asunder.  The  process  must  be 
continued  for  4  days  to  produce  a  good  article 
of  chloride  of  lime.  During  this  time  the 
lime  is  occasionally  agitated  by  means  of  iron 
rakes,  the  handles  of  which  pass  through 
boxes  of  lime  placed  in  the  walls  of  the  cham- 
ber, which  act  as  valves. 

4246.  Chloride  of   Calcium.     Known 
also  as  muriate  of  lime.    From  the  strong  af- 
finity this  salt  has  for  water,  it  is  much  used 
for    drying  gases  and    absorbing  the  water 
from  ethereal  and   oily  liquids,  in    organic 
analyses.    For  this  purpose  it  is  used  in  the 
dry  state.      In  its    hydrous  or    crystallized 
form,  it  is  much  used  in  the  preparation  of 
freezing  mixtures  with  snow.     In  this  case, 
the  evaporation  need  only  be  conducted  so  far 
that  the  whole  becomes  a  solid  mass  on  re- 
moval from  the  fire.     For  both  this  and  the 
last-mentioned  use  it  is  reduced  to  powder. 
It  is  also  much  used  as  a  test  for  sulphuric 
acid,  with  which  it  produces  a  white  precipi- 
tate insoluble  in  nitric  acid ;  in  the  rectifica- 
tion of  alcohol,  and  for  forming  a  water-bath 
with  a  high  boiling  point.    As  a  medicine,  it 
has  been  given  in  some  scrofulous  and  gland- 
ular diseases,  and  has    also  been  used  as  a 
bath  in  the  same  cases. 

4247.  To  Prepare  Chloride  of  Cal- 
cium.    To  hydrochloric  acid,  diluted  with  an 
equal  weight  of  water,  add  powdered  chalk 
or  white  marble,  in  small  fragments,  until  ef- 
fervescence entirely  ceases,  and  the  liquid  no 
longer  reddens  litmus  paper.     Filter,  evapo- 
rate to  one-half,  and  set  it  aside  to  crystallize. 
Then  collect  the  crystals,  dry  them  by  pres- 
sure between  bibulous  paper,  and  keep  in  a 
stoppered    bottle.      The    mother-liquid    will 
yield  more  crystals  by  further  evaporation. 

4248.  Hyposulphite  of  Lime.     Slack 
5  ounces  lime  with  enough  water  to  make  4 
pints,  boil  up  with  10  ounces  of  flowers  of  sul- 
phur, and  pass  into  the  solution  sulphurous 
acid  gas  (free  from  carbonic  acid)  until  it  has 
become  colorless.    Then  filter  and  evaporate 
to  crystallization,  at  a  temperature  not  exceed- 
ing 140°  Fahrenheit.    Another  way  to  prepare 
this  salt  is  to  mix  44  ounces  (by  weight)  of  a 
solution  of  fused  chloride  of  calcium  of  1.238 
specific  gravity,  with  a  warm  solution  of  25 
ounces  hyposulphite   of   soda  in  30   ounces 
water ;  evaporate  to  38  ounces,  and  pour  off, 
while  warm,  from  the  crystals  of  chloride  of 
sodium ;  then  allow  to  crystallize,  and  purify 
the  crystals  by  re-solution. 

4249.  Cobalt.     A  metal  found  in  ores 
associated  with  arsenic  and  other  metals ;  also 
present  in  meteoric  iron.    It  is  white,  brittle, 
and  does  not  change  in  the  air ;  has  a  high 
melting   point,    and    is    strongly    magnetic. 
Specific  gravity  8.5.     (Cooley.) 

4250.  Nitrate  of  Cobalt.     This  may  be 
obtained    by  dissolving    metallic    cobalt    in 
nitric  acid,  and  collecting  the  crystals.   These 
crystals  are  ready  soluble  in  water ;  of  a  red 
color;    deliquescent,   and    melt    below  212° 
Fahr.     At  a  higher  heat,  nitrous  fumes  are 
given   off,   and  peroxide  of  cobalt  remains. 


396 


MISCELLANEOUS   CHEMICALS. 


4251.  Chloride  of  Cobalt.     Dissolve 
carbonate  of  cobalt  iu  muriatic  acid  ;  the  so- 
lution deposits  rose-colored  crystals  on  stand- 
ing,  -which   contain  water.     By  evaporating 
the  solution,  anhydrous  blue  crystals  of  the 
chloride  are  obtained.     (Coolcy.) 

4252.  Carbonate  of  Cobalt.    This  is 
precipitated  from  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  co- 
balt, by  carbonate  of  potassa,  producing  a 
pale  peach-colored  powder,  soluble  in  acids. 
(  Cooley. ) 

4253.  Acetate  of  Cobalt.'   The  acetate 
is  obtained  by  dissolving  carbonate  of  cobalt 
in  acetic  acid.   Acetate  of  cobalt  forms  a  sym- 
pathetic ink.     (See  No.  2540.) 

4254.  Manganese.      A    hard,    brittle, 
greyish-white    metal,    very    easily    oxidized, 
fuses  with  difficulty,  unaffected  by  cold  water, 
but  dissolving  freely  in  dilute  sulphuric  acid, 
evolving  hydrogen  gas.      It   has  a  specific 
gravity  of  8.013.    It  is  obtained  by  calci- 
nation in  a  crucible,  at  a  strong  heat,  of  10 
parts  by  weight  of  an  oxide  of  manganese, 
made  into  a  paste  with  oil,  and  combined  with 
1  part  calcined  borax. 

4255.  Peroxide  of  Manganese.    The 
"black  oxide  is  the  only  oxide  of  manganese  that 
is  directly  employed  in  the  arts.    It  is  a  plen- 
tiful mineral  production  in  a  crude  state ;  and 
is  purified  by  grinding  the  native  mineral  or 
pyrolusite  in  mills,  and  removing  the  earthy 


matter  by  washing. 

esteemed  the  best. 

4256.    Alum. 


The  blackest  samples  are 
The  alum  of  commerce  is 


4260.  Butyrine.    An  oily  fluid  obtained 
from  butter.     Keep  clarified  butter  in  a  por- 
celain vessel,  at  a  heat  of  66°,  for  some  days ; 
carefully  collect  the  oily  portion  which  sepa- 
rates, and  agitate  it  with  an  equal  weight  of 
absolute  alcohol  for  24  hours,  then  pour  off 
the  clear  and  evaporate,  treat  the  oily  residu- 
um with  a  little  carbonate  of  magnesia  to  re- 
move any  free  acid,  and  wash  off  the  butyrate 
of  magnesia  thus   formed  with  water ;   next 
heat  the  remaining  fatty  matter  in  .alcohol, 
filter,  and  evciporate,  to  obtain  the  butyrine. 

4261.  Bromine.    A  dark  reddish-colored 
liquid,  having   an  odor  resembling  chlorine. 
It  freezes  at  — 4°,boils  at  about  135°  Fahr.,  is 
very  soluble  in  ether,  less  so  in  alcohol,  and 
only  slightly  so  in  water.      "With  hydrogen  it 
forms  hydrobromic  acid,  and,  with  the  bases, 
compounds   called  BROMIDES  or  HVDROBRO- 
MATES.  It  is  obtained  as  follows :  A  current  of 
chlorine  is  passed  through  the  uncrystallizable 
residuum  of  sea-water,   called  bittern,  which 
then  assumes  an  orange  tint,  in  consequence 
of  bromine  being  set  free  from  its  combinations; 
sulphuric  ether  is  then  agitated  with  it,  and 
the  mixture  allowed  to  stand  until  the  ethereal 
portion,  holding  the  bromine  in  solution,  floats 
upon  the  surface.     -By  decanting,  and  evap- 
orating the  ether,  a  crude  bromine  may  be 
obtained  at  once.     To  get  it  pure,  the  ethereal 
solution  iscarefully  decanted,  and  agitated  with 
a  solution  of  potassa,  by  which  means  bro- 
mide of  potassium  and  bromate  of  potash  are 
formed.    The  whole  is  next  evaporated  to  dry- 


a  sulphate  of  alumina  and  potassa,  obtained  by  i  ness,  and  submitted  to  a  dull  red  heat;  the 


lixiviation  (see  No.  23)  from  crude  alum  ore, 
or  scliist.  It  is  obtained  in  large  crystals, 
slightly  efflorescent.  It  is  applied  in  the  arts 
to  a  great  variety  of  purposes.  "When  deprived 
of  its  water  of  crystallization  by  heat,  it  be- 
comes burnt  or  dried  alum.  Pure  red  or  roche 
alum  was  originally  imported  from  Italy,  where 
it  is  found  in  a  native  state.  This  has  a  red- 
dish tinge,  which  extends  more  or  less  through 


the  crystals. 
4257.     Hydrate  of  Alumina. 


Dissolve 


alum  in  G  times  its  weight  of  boiling  water, 
add  a  solution  of  carbonate  of  potassa,  in 
Blight  excess,  agitate  the  mixture  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  then  allow  it  to  repose.  After 
a  time,  pour  the  clear  supernatant  liquor  from 
the  precipitate  or  sediment,  and  wash  the 
latter  three  or  four  times  with  tepid  distilled 
or  soft  water.  Next  collect  the  precipitate 
on  a  fine  calico  filter,  and  again  wash  it  with 
tepid  water.  "When  it  has  drained,  press  it 
between  bibulous  paper,  and,  lastly,  dry  it 
either  without  heat,  or  at  a  temperature  not 
higher  than  120°  to  130°  Fahr.  The  product 
is  a  soft  white  powder.  (Cooley.) 

4258.  Acetate  of  Alumina.  Add  a  solu- 
tion of  acetate  of  baryta  to  another  of  sul- 
phate of  alumina,  and  filter.     Or,  add  5  parts 
alum  to  6  parts  sugar  of  lead,  each  being  first 
dissolved  separately  in  hot  water,  and  allowed 
to  cool  before  mixing ;  decant  the  clear  liquor. 
The  pure  acetate  is  made  from  pure  hydrate 
of  alumina,  by  digesting  it  in  cold,  strong 
acetic  acid,  until  the  latter  is  saturated.    By 
spontaneous    evaporation    long    transparent 
crystals  form. 

4259.  Sulphate  of  Alumina.    Saturate 
dilute  sulphuric  acid  with  hydrate  of  alumina ; 
evaporate  and  crystallize. 


residuum  is  then  powdered,  mixed  with  pure 
peroxide  of  manganese,  and  placed  in  a  reto'rt; 
sulphuric  acid,  diluted  with  half  its  weight  of 
water,  is  now  poured  in.  Eed  vapors  imme- 
diately arise,  and  condense  into  drops  of  bro- 
mine, and  are  collected  by  plunging  the  neck 
of  the  retort  to  the  bottom  of  a  small  receiver 
containing  cold  water.  The  bromine  forms  a 
stratum  beneath  the  water,  and  may  be  col- 
lected nnd  further  purified  by  distillation  from 
dry  chloride  of  calcium.  (Cooley.) 

4262.  Iodide  of  Cadmuim.      This  is 
prepared  by  mixing  iodine  and  cadmuim  filings 
in  a  moist  state.     This  is  freely  soluble  in 
water  or  alcohol,  and  may  be  crystallized  by 
evaporation    from   ether    solution,    in  large 
white  transparent  crystals.     (  U.  S.  Disp.} 

4263.  Bromide  of  Cadmium.     This  is 
made  from  cadmium  filings  and  bromine,  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  iodide  of  cadmium 
from  iodine.    It  consists  of  long,  white,  efflo- 
rescent, crystalline  needles. 

4264.  'Hydriodate  of  Quinine.    To  a 
concentrated  solution  of  neutral  sulphate  of 
quinine,  add,   drop  by  drop,  a  concentrated 
solution  of  iodide  of  potassium;  dry  the  preci- 
pitate in  the  shade;  or,  heat  the  liquid  nearly 
to  the  boiling  point,  and  allow  it  to  crystal- 
lize. 

4265.  Sulphate  of  Quinine.    This  is 
the  disulphate  of  quinia.     Boil  ^8  troy  ounces 
coarsely  powdered    yellow  cinchona,    in  13 
pints  of  water  containing  1£  troy  ounces  mu- 
riatic acid,  and  strain  through  muslin.    Boil 
the  residue  twice  successively  with  the  same 
quantity  of  water  and  acid  as  before,   and 
strain.    Mix  the  decoctions,  and,  while  the 
liquid  is  hot,  gradually  add  5  troy   ounces 
finely  powdered  lime,  previously  mixed  with 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


397 


2  pints  of  water,  stirring  constantly  until  the 
quinia  is  completely  precipitated.  Wash  the 
precipitate  with  distilled  water;  and,  having 
pressed,  dried,  and  powdered  it,  digest  it  in 
boiling  alcohol.  Pour  off  the  liquid,  and 
repeat  the  digestion  several  times  until  the 
alcohol  is  no  longer  rendered  bitter.  Mix  the 
liquids,  and  distill  off  the  alcohol  until  a  brown 
viscid  mass  remains.  Transfer  it  to  a  suitable 
vessel,  and  pour  upon  it  4  pints  distilled 
water ;  and,  having  heated  the  mixture  to  the 
boiling  point,  add  as  much  sulphuric  acid  as 
may  be  necessary  to  dissolve  the  quinia. 
Then  add  1£  troy  ounces  animal  charcoal,  boil 
for  2  minutes,  filter  while  hot,  and  set  it  aside 
to  crystallize.  Should  the  liquid  before  filtra- 
tion bo  entirely  neutral,  acidulate  it  very 
slightly  with  sulphuric  acid ;  should  it,  on  the 
contrary,  change  the  color  of  litmus  paper  to 
a  bright  red,  add  more  charcoal.  Separate 
the  crystals  from  the  liquid,  dissolve  them 
in  boiling  distilled  water  slightly  acidulated 
with  sulphuric  acid,  add  a  little  animal  char- 
coal, filter  the  solution,  d"nd  set  it  aside  to 
crystallize.  Lastly  dry  the  crystals  on  bibu- 
lous paper  with  a  gentle  heat,  and  keep  them 
in  a  well- stopped  bottle.  The  mother- water 
may  be  made  to  yield  an  additional  quantity 
of  sulphate  of  quinia  by  precipitating  the 
quinia  with  water  of  ammonia,  and  treating 
the  precipitate  with  distilled  water,  sulphuric 
acid,  and  animal  charcoal,  as  before.  (U.  8. 
Ph.)  "When  pure  it  forms  light,  delicate, 
white  needles.  It  is  entirely  soluble  iu  hot 
water,  and  more  readily  so  when  an  acid  is 
present.  Precipitated  by  ammonia,  the  re- 
siduary liquid,  after  evaporation,  should  not 
taste  of  sugar.  By  a  gentle  heat  it  loses  8  or 
10  per  cent,  of  water.  It  is  wholly  consumed 
by  heat.  If  chlorine  bo  first  added,  and  then 
ammonia,  it  becomes  green.  A  solution  of  10 
grains  in  1  fluid  ounce  distilled  water,  and  2 
or  3  drops  of  sulphuric  acid,  if  decomposed  by 
a  solution  of  \  ounce  carbonate  of  soda,  in 
two  waters,  and  heated  till  the  precipitate 
shrinks  and  fuses,  yields  on  cooling  a  solid 
mass,  which,  when  dry,  weighs  7.4  grains, 
and  in  powder  dissolves  entirely  in  a  solution 
of  oxalic  acid. 

4266.  Tests  for  the  Purity  of  Sul- 
phate of  Quinine.  This  salt  is  frequently 
adulterated  with  starch,  magnesia,  gum, 
sugar,  <fec.  The  first  three  remain  undissolved 
when  the  salt  is  digested  in  spirit ;  the  fourth 
is  dissolved  out  by  cold  water,  and  the  last 
may  be  detected  by  precipitating  the  quinine 
by  liquor  of  potassa,  and  dissolving  the  pre- 
cipitate in  boiling  alcohol;  cinchona  crystal- 
lizes out  as  the  solution  cools,  but  the  qui- 
nine remains  iu  the  mother  liquor.  (Coolcy.) 

Dr.  Stonelen  proposes  a  test  for  the  presence 
of  salicino  in  sulphate  of  quinine.  He  em- 
ploys three  kinds  of  sulphuric  acid — viz. :  the 
fuming,  pure  concentrated  acid,  free  from 
arsenic  and  nitric  acid;  ordinary  concentrated 
sulphuric  acid  of  commerce,  containing  a 
trace  of  nitric  acid;  and,  lastly,  sulphuric 
acid,  to  which,  purposely,  nitric  acid  had  been 
added.  "Watch  glasses  having  been  placed  on 
a  sheet  of  white  paper,  and  a  drop  or  two  of 
the  acids  above  referred  to  (each  in  a  separate 
glass)  having  been  poured  therein,  a  few  crys- 
tals of  sulphate  of  quinine  are  put  on  the 
acid;  if  pure,  there  is  no  coloration;  but,  even 


with  1  per  cent,  of  salicine,  the  two  first- 
named  acids  cause  a  distinct  red  coloration, 
which  does  not  ensue  with  the  acid  containing 
nitric  acid.  This  latter  acid  is  not  even  col- 
ored by  pure  salicine. 

4267.  Acetate    of    Morphia.      The 
acetate  of  morphia  of  commerce  is  usually  in 
the  form  of  a  whitish  powder,  and  is  prepared 
by  the  mere  evaporation  of  the  solution  to 
dryness  by  a  gentle  heat.     During  the  process 
a  portion  of  the  acetic  acid  is  dissipated,  and 
hence  this  preparation  is  seldom    perfectly 
soluble  in  water,  unless  it  be  slightly  acidula- 
ted with  acetic  acid.     It  is  prepared  by  dis- 
solving G  drachms  morphia  in  3  fluid  drachms 
acetic  acid  specific  gravity  1.048,  diluted  with 
4  fluid    ounces    distilled    water;    evaporate 
gently,  and  crystallize.     100  measures  of  a 
solution  of  10  grains  in  i  fluid  ounce  water, 
and  5  minims  of  acetic  acid,  heated  to  212°, 
and  decomposed  by  a  very  slight  excess  of 
ammonia,  yield  by  agitation  a  precipitate, 
which,  in  24  hours,  occupies  15|  measures  o£ 
the  liquid. 

4268.  Opium.     The  juice  obtained    by 
cutting  the  unripe  fruit  of  the  white  poppy, 
and  hardened  by  exposure  to  the  air.     It 
yields  several  alkaloids,  tho  principal  of  which 
is  morphine.    The   best  opium,  comes  from 
Smyrna,  in  Turkey.     Sometimes    the   com- 
mercial   article   is    found    adulterated    with 
various  substances  in  order  to  increase  its 
weight. 

4269.  To  Test  the  Strength  of  Opium. 
Take  25  grains  quicklime  made  into  a  milk 
with  water,  boil  in  this  100  grains  opium,  and 
filter  the  solution  while  hot;   saturate  the 
filtrate  with  dilute    hydrochloric    acid,   and 
then  precipitate  tho  morphia  by  the  addition 
of  liquor  of  ammonia,  any  excess  of  the  latter 
being  expelled  by  heat.     Collect  tho  precipi- 
tate, dry,  and  weigh  it ;  tho  weight  in  grama 
will  represent  the  percentage  of  morphia  in 
the  sample  of  opium  tested.     (CouerZc.) 

4270.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Opium. 
Macerate  100  grains  opium  for  24  hours  in  2 
fluid  ounces  water;   filter  and  express  tho 
residue ;  then  precipitate  with  a  solution  of  -J 
ounce  carbonate  of  soda  in  2  fluid  ounces  cold 
water;   gently  heat  tho  precipitate  until  it 
fuses,   then  cool  and  weigh  it.     It  should 
weigh  at  least  10  grains;   and,  when  pow- 
dered,  bo  entirely  soluble  in  a  solution  of 
oxalic  acid. 

4271.  Chloroform.     A  thin,  .colorless 
liquid,  of  agre'eable  ethereal  odor,  and  sweetish 
but  slightly  acrid  taste.    Its  specific  gravity 
(water    standard)  is  1.49,   and  the    specific 
gravity  of  its  vapor  (air  standard)  is  4.2.     It 
kindles  with  difficulty,  burning  with  a  green- 
ish flame,   and  gives  a  dull,  sinoky-j'cllow 
color  to  tho  flame  of  alcohol.     It  occupies  a 
prominent  place  among  the  ancesthetics  (sub- 
stances used  to  produce  insensibility  to  pain 
by  inhaling  them),  but  has  in  later  times 
been,   to    a   certain    extent,   superseded    by 
nitrous  oxide.     (See  No.  40GO.)     Externally 
applied,  it  is  refrigerant,  soothing,  and  allays 
pam.    It  neither  reddens  nor  bleaches  litmus 
paper. 

4272.  To  Obtain  Chloroform.    This  is 
prepared  on  the  largo  scale,  by  mixing,  in  a 
capacious  retort  or  still,  4  pounds  chloride  of 
lime,  12  pounds  water,  and  12  fluid  ounces 


398 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


rectified  alcohol ;  distill  cautiously  as  long  as 
a  dense  liquid  is  produced,  which  sinks  in  and 
separates  from  the  water  with  which  it  passes 
over.  Separate  the  lower  stratum  of  chloro- 
form from  the  water,  agitate  it  with  a  little 
sulphuric  acid,  and  distill  it  by  the  heat  of 
a  water-bath  from  carbonate  of  baryta. 
(Dumas.) 

4273.  To  Obtain  Pure    Chloroform. 
Place  in  a  capacious  still  3  gallons  water  and 
30  fluid  ounces  rectified  spirfy  and  raise  the 
temperature  to  100°  Fahr.    Add  10  pounds 
chlorinated  lime  (slacked  lime  saturated  with 
chlorine  gas),   and  5  pounds  slacked   lime, 
mixing  thoroughly.    Apply  heat,  which  must 
be  withdrawn  as  soon  as  distillation  has  com- 
menced, and  distill  50  ounces ;  agitate  it  with 
$  gallon  water,  and  allow  the  crude  chloroform 
to  settle.     Separate  and  wash  the  chloroform 
with  3  fluid  ounces  distilled  water,  repeating 
this  operation  3  times,  each  time  with  fresh 
distilled  water.     Next  agitate  the  chloroform 

•  for  5  minutes  with  an  equal  volume  of  sul- 
phuric acid ;  when  settled,  transfer  the  upper 
stratum  to  a  flask  containing 2  ounces  chloride 
of  calcium  in  small  pieces,  and  i  ounce  per- 
fectly dry  slacked  lime.  Agitate  thoroughly, 
and,  after  an  hour,  distill  the  pure  chloroform 
over  a  water-bath.  Keep  in  a  well-stoppered 
bottle,  in  a  cool  place.  The  U.  S.  Dispensato- 
ry has  transferred  this  from  the  British  Phar- 
macopoaia,  consequently  avoirdupois  weight 
and  Imperial  measure  are  adopted. 

4274.  To  Purify  Commercial  Chloro- 
form.     To     102    troy    ounces    commercial 
chloroform  add  17  troy  ounces  sulphuric  acid, 
occasionally  shaking  during  24  hours.     Sepa- 
rate the  lighter  liquid  and  mix  it  with  6  fluid 
drachms  stronger  alcohol.     Then  add  2  troy 
ounces  carbonate  of  potassa,  previously  heat- 
ed to  redness,  and  rubbed  into  powder  while 
warm.     Agitate  thoroughly  and  distill  to  dry- 
ness.     Keep  the  distilled  liquid  in  well-stop- 
ped bottles.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4275.  Tests  for  the  Purity  of  Chloro- 
form.    Its   specific    gravity   should  not    be 
less  than  1.490,  nor  more  than  1.494;   and 
should  boil  at    140°  Fahr.    When  dropped 
into  water,  it  sinks  in  transparent  globules 
without  milkiness.     When  mixed  in  a  bottle 
with  an  equal  bulk  of  sulphuric  acid,  it  should 
produce  no  warmth ;  and  after  standing  for  24 
hours,  neither  liquid  should  be  discolored,  or, 
at  most,  a  faint  yellow  tinge  imparted  to  the 
lower  or  acid  stratum;    moro  discoloration 
than  this  would  denote  the  presence  of  em- 
pyreumatic  oily  matter.    "When  evaporated 
on  a  porcelain  plate,  it  leaves  behind  a  slight- 
ly aromatic  odor,  but  free  from  pungency. 

4276.  Chloral.      Chloral  is  an  oily  li- 
quid, possessing  an  ethereal  smell ;  it  is  solu- 
ble in  alcohol,  ether,  and  water,  but  its  solu- 
tion in  the  latter  rapidly  changes  into  a  semi- 
solid  crystalline  mass  of  hydrate  of  chloral, 
soluble  in  a  larger  quantity  of  water.    Chloral 
boils  at  202°,  and  has  a  specific  gravity  of 
1.502. 

4277.  To  Obtain  Chloral.     Place  an- 
hydrous alcohol  in  a  tubulated  retort,  and 
pass  dry  chlorine  gas  through  it,  at  first  in 
the  cold,  but  afterwards  with  the  application 
of  a  gentle  heat.    As  soon  as  the  chlorine 
passes  undecomposed  through  the  liquor  at 
the  boiling  temperature,  the  process  is  com- 


plete. On  cooling,  the  liquid  in  the  retort 
solidifies,  forming  a  crystalline  mass  of  hydra- 
ted  chloral.  This  must  be  melted  by  gentle 
heat,  and  agitated  with  thrice  its  volume  of 
oil  of  vitriol,  when,  on  increasing  the  heat  a 
little,  an  oily  stratum  of  impure  chloral  will 
rise  to  the  surface.  This  must  be  removed, 
boiled  for  some  time,  to  drive  off'  some  free 
hydrochloric  acid  and  alcohol,  and  next  dis- 
tilled with  an  equal  volume  of  oil  of  vitriol ; 
lastly,  it  must  be  rectified  from  finely-pow- 
dered quicklime,  stopping  the  process  as  soon 
as  the  surface  of  the  lime  becomes  dry.  The 
chlorine  is  best  introduced  by  a  tube  inserted 
into  the  tubulature  of  the  retort,  and  a  long 
tube,  bent  upwards,  should  be  connected  with 
the  beak  to  convey  away  the  hydrochloric 
acid  gas  extricated,  and  to  allow  the  volatil- 
ized alcohol  and  chloral  to  condense  and  flow 
back  into  the  retort. 

4278.  To  Purify  Hydrate  of  Chloral. 
There  is  perhaps  scarcely  a  liquid  in  which 
chloral  hydrate  is  insoluble  at  ordinary  tem- 
perature; four  parts  of  it  dissolve  gradually 
in  one  part  of  water,  the  solution  crystallizes 
at  32°  Fahr.,  but  not  in  well-formed  crystals. 
Alcohol  and  ether  dissolve  it  to  such  an  ex- 
tent that  it  likewise  does  not  crystallize  well 
on  evaporating  these  solvents ;  absolute  al- 
cohol must  be  excluded,  because  it  combines 
with  chloral.  Chloroform  and  benzole  are 
well  adapted  for  recrystallization,  but  the 
first  is  too  dear,  and  the  last  cannot  be  entire- 
ly removed  from  the  crystals.  The  same 
holds  good  for  most  other  liquid  solvents,  but 
uniformly  satisfactory  results  are  obtained 
with  bisulphide  of  carbon ;  45  parts  of  it  dis- 
solve at  60°  to  65°  Fahr.,  but  1  part  chloral 
hydrate;  it  precipitates  ethereal  and  alcoholic 
solutions  of  the  latter.  But  at  temperatures 
below  the  boiling  of  bisulphide  of  carbon,  4 
to  5  parts  of  it  are  sufficient  for  dissolving  1 
part  chloral  hydrate.  If  allowed  to  cool 
slowly,  beautiful  crystals,  often  an  inch  in 
length,  are  obtained,  easily  collected,  and 
readily  freed  from  the  last  traces  of  the  sol- 
vent by  exposing  them  in  thin  layers  to  the 
air.  (Fliickiger.) 

4279.  Sulphuric  Ether — also  called 
oxide  of  ethyl — is  a  colorless,  transparent, 
very  limpid  fluid,  having  a  penetrating  and 
agreeable  smell  and  a  burning  taste. 

4280.  To  Obtain  Sulphuric  Ether. 
Put  2  pounds  rectified  spirit  into  a  glass  re- 
tort, and  add  2  pounds  sulphuric  acid ;  place 
the  retort  on  a  sand-bath,  and  apply  heat  so 
that  the  liquor  may  boil  as  quickly  as  possi- 
ble, and  the  ether  pass  into  a  receiver  cooled 
by  ice  or  water;  continue  to  distill  until  a 
heavier  fluid  begins  to  pass  over ;  then  lower 
the  heat,  add  another  pound  of  spirit,  and 
distill  as  before.  Mix  the  distilled  liquors  to- 

? ether,  pour  off  the  supernatant  portion,  add 
ounce  carbonate  of  potassa  (previously  igni- 
ted), and  agitate  occasionally  for  one  hour; 
finally,  distill  the  ether  from  a  large  retort, 
and  keep  it  in  a  well-stoppered  bottle.  This 
ether  should  have  a  specific  gravity  of  .750. 

It  is  recommended  to  mix  only  a  portion  of 
the  alcohol  at  first  with  the  acid,  and  as  soon 
as  it  reaches  boiling  point  (about  280°  Fahr.), 
add  the  remainder  only  fast  enough  to  re- 
place the  fluid  as  it  distills  over ;  also  not  to 
allow  the  heat  to  exceed  286°. 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


399 


Another  method  is,  to  heat  the  sulphuric 
acid  to  280°,  and  then  introduce  the  alcohol 
in  a  fine  stream,  by  means  of  a  tube  with  a 
fine  lower  orifice,  introduced  through  a  cork 
fitted  to  the  mouth  of  the  retort;  a  ther- 
mometer being  adjusted  in  a  similar  manner, 
BO  that  its  bulb  is  immersed  in  the  contents 
of  the  retort.  By  this  means  the  danger  of  the 
heat  rising  above  236°  is  obviated. 

4281.  Stronger  Ether.    Officinal  JEther 
Fortior.  Take  3  pints  each  of  ether  and  water ; 
shake  them  thoroughly  together  in  a  bottle ; 
and,  when  the  water  has  subsided,  separate 
the  ether  from  it,  and  agitate  it  well  with  1 
troy  ounce  each  of  chloride  of  calcium  and 
lime,  both  in  fine  powder.     After  standing  for 
24  hours,  decant  the  ether  into  a  retort,  with 
a  Liebig's  condenser,  connected  with  a  receiver 
surrounded  by  ice-cold  water,  and  distill 
pints  stronger  ether,  which  should  be  of  a 
specific  gravity  not  exceeding  .728. 

4282.  To  Purify  Ether.    Ordinary  ether 
is  purified  by  first  agitating  it  with  2  or  3  times 
its  volume  of  distilled  water  containing  a  few 
grains  of  carbonate  of  potassa,  or  a  few  drops 
of  milk  of  lime ;  and,  after  decantation,  again 
agitated  with  a  like  quantity  of  water  only. 
This  may  be  used  for  inhalations.    The  washed 
ether  is  afterwards  digested  on  chloride  of  cal- 
cium to  deprive  it  of  retained  moisture. 

4283.  Cautions  About  Ether.     The 
vapor  of  ether  is  very  inflammable,  and  when 
mixed  with  atmospheric  air  it  forms  a  vio- 
lently explosive    mixture.      The    density  of 

,  this  vapor  is  2.586,  that  of  air  being  1,  hence 
it  rapidly  sinks,  and  frequently  accumulates 
in  the  lower  parts  of  buildings,  especially  cel- 
lars which  are  badly  ventilated.  Every  crack, 
every  joint  in  the  floors  of  rooms,  the  space 
bene'ath  doors,  <fec.,  offer  a  road  for  the  pass- 
age of  this  vapor,  which,  though  invisible,  as 
surely  runs  out  of  every  orifice,  and  finds  its 
level,  as  a  stream  of  water  would  do.  The 
only  remedy  is  thorough  ventilation.  Many 
serious  accidents  have  arisen  from  this  cause ; 
a  light  carried  where  such  vapor  is  present 
causes  an  explosion. 

4284.  Ozone  Ether.     By  agitating  ether 
in  a  flask  with  binoxide  of  barium,   adding 
gradually    perfectly    pure    and    very    dilute 
hydrochloric  acid,   occasionally  cooling  and 
subsequently  allowing    the  ether    to  settle, 
we  obtain  a  liquid  which  has  been  recom- 
mended   as    a    disinfecting,    bleaching,    and 
cleansing  agent,  and  as  a  test  for  chromic 
acid,  which  it  instantly  turns  indigo  blue. 
According  to  Boettger,  this  does  not  contain 
ozone,   but  binoxide  of  hydrogen,   which  is 
equivalent  to  it. 

4285.  Tests  for  the  Purity  of  Ether. 
Pure  ether  should  be  neutral  to  test  paper; 
vaporke  totally  when  exposed  to  the  air ; 
when  shaken  in  a  graduated  tube  with  half  its 
volume  of  a  concentrated  solution  of  chloride 
of  calcium,  its  volume  should  not  be  lessened ; 
water  should  dissolve  only  -rV  its  volume  of 
ether,  and  remain  transparent.    Dry  carbon- 
ate of  potassa  or  tannin  shaken  with  ether  in 
a  test-tube  will  become  moist  or  form  a  syrupy 
solution,  in  case  any  water  is  present.    The 
presence  of  alcohol  is  shown  by  shaking  the 
ether  with  water,  its  solubility  in  water  being 
the  greater  in  direct  proportion  to  the  quan- 
tity of  alcohol  which  it  contains. 


Spec.  Grav. 

Per  cent. 

Spec.  Grav. 

Per  cent. 

0.7198 

100 

.7673 

65 

.7246 

95 

.7636 

60 

.7293 

90 

.7701 

55 

.7343 

85 

.7772 

50 

.7397 

80 

.7840 

45 

.7455 

75 

.7880 

40 

.7514 

70 

4286.  To  Find  the  Percentage  of 
Ether  in  a  Mixture  of  Ether  and  Al- 
cohol. By  ascertaining  the  specific  gravity 
at  60°  Fahr.  of  a  mixture  of  ether  and  alcohol, 
the  following  table  will  give  the  percentage 
of  absolute  ether  contained  in  the  mixture  : 

TABLE  OF  PERCENTAGE  OP  ETHER. 


4287.  Nitric  Ether.    Take  50  parts  nitric 
acid,  specific  gravity  1.375,  dissolve  in  it  2  or 
3  parts  nitrate  of  urea,  and  add  50  parts  alco- 
hol.   Distill  until  $  of  the  whole  has  passed 
over ;  agitate  the  distillate  with  a  little  water 
to  separate  the  ether,  and  preserve  the  heavier 
portion.     It  has  a  specific  gravity  of  1.112; 
its  vapor  is  explosive  when  strongly  heated, 
consequently  great  care  is  necessary  in  the 
distillation,  to  keep  the  heat  down  to  the  low- 
est working  point,  and  to  distill  only  small 
quantities  at  a  time.   ( Millon. )    ( See  directions 
for  Sulphuric  Ether,  in  No.  4280.) 

4288.  Nitrous  Ether.     Nitrous  or  hypo- 
nitrous  ether  has  a  pale  yellow  color,  boils  at 
62°  Fahr. ;  at  60°  its  specific  gravity  is  .947  ; 
it  is  very  volatile.    Take  starch,  1  part ;  nitric 
acid,  specific  gravity  1.30,  10  parts ;  alcohol  of 
85  per  cent.,  2  parts ;  water,  1  part ;  introduce 
the  starch  and  acid  into  a  capacious  retort 
connected  with  a  wide  tube  2  or  3  feet  long, 
bent  at  right  angles,  and  terminating  near  the 
bottom  of  a  two-necked  bottle,  containing  the 
alcohol  and  water  mixed  together,  and  sur- 
rounded with  a  freezing  mixture  or  very  cold 
water.    The  other  neck  of  the  bottle  must  be 
connected  by  a  wide  and  long  glass  tube,  with 
a  good  refrigerator  or  condenser.     The  heat  of 
a  water-bath  must  be  cautiously  applied  to 
the  retort,  when  pure  hyponitrous  acid  will  be 
set  free,  and,  passing  into  the  alcohol,  will  form 
hyponitrite  of  oxide  of  ethyl  (ether),  which 
will  distill  in  a  gentle  stream.    The  tube  con- 
necting the  retort  and  bottle  must  be  cooled 
by  means  of  a  rag  or  moist  paper,  wetted  from 
time  to  time  with  ice-cold  water ;  for  if  the 
tube  and  the  alcohol  be  not  carefully  cooled, 
the  latter  becomes  spontaneously  hot,   and 
boils  violently,  when  the  product  is  vitiated. 
This  process  is  very  productive  and  economi- 
cal,  and  yields    perfectly  pure    hyponitrous 
ether.     (Licbig.) 

4289.  Sweet  Spirit  of  Nitre.    This  is 
an  alcoholic  solution  of  nitrous  ether.    The 
mixture  should  have,  according  to  the  U.  S. 
Pharmacopoeia,  a  specific  gravity  of  .837.    It 
becomes  acid  by  age. 

4290.  Hydrochloric  Ether.     This  is 
the  chloride  of  ethyl,   and  is  distilled  in  a 
retort,  from  rectified  spirit  of  wine  saturated 
with  dry  hydrochloric  acid    gas.     (Thenard 
directs  equal  volumes  of  concentrated  hydro- 
chloric acid  and  absolute  alcohol.)     The  re- 
tort is  connected  with  a  "Wolffe's  apparatus, 
the  first  bottle  of  which  should  be  two-thirds 
full  of  tepid  water  (70U  to  75°  Fahr.),  and  the 


4rOO 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


remainder  surrounded  with  salt  and  ice.  To 
render  it  perfectly  anhydrous,  it  must  be 
digested  on  a  few  fragments  of  fused  chloride 
of  calcium.  (Cooley.) 

4291.  Acetic  Ether.     This  is  a  color- 
less fluid,  and  bears  a  considerable  resem- 
blance to    sulphuric   ether,   of  which  it   is 
strictly  an  acetate.    Liebig  assigns  it  a  speci- 
fic gravity  of  .89  at  60°  Fahr.,  dissolving  in  7 
times  its  bulk  of  water ;  lire  gives  it  a  specific 
gravity  of  .866  at  45°,  dissolving  in  8  parts 
water.      It  is   decomposed  by  alkalies  and 
strong  acids.      (Cooley.)     It  is  also   called 
acetate  of  ethyl. 

4292.  To  Obtain  Acetic  Ether.    Mix 
together  3  parts  acetate  of  potassa  (or  an 
equivalent  quantity  of  acetate  of  soda  (see  No. 
80),  3  parts  85  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  2  parts 
strongest  oil  of  vitriol.      Distill  them  in  a 
glass  retort  or  earthenware  still,  connected 
with  a  well-cooled  receiver ;  agitate  the  pro- 
duct with  a  little  water,  to  remove  undecom- 
posed  alcohol,  then  digest  it  with  a  little  chalk, 
to  remove  acidity,  and  afterwards  with  fused 
chloride  of  calcium,  to  absorb  water.    Lastly, 
rectify  by  a  gentle  heat.    (Fownes.) 

4293.  To   Prepare   Butyric   Ether. 
This  is  the  pine-apple  oil  of  commerce ;  and, 
largely  diluted  with  rectified  spirit,  is  the 
pine-apple  essence  used  for  flavoring.    It  is 
prepared  from  crude  butyric  acid  saponified 
with  caustic  potassa,  and  the  resulting  soap 
distilled  along  with  alcohol  and  oil  of  vitriol. 
It  is  sparingly  soluble  in  water,  very  soluble 
in  alcohol ;  boils  at  230°.    It  is  also  called 
butyrate  of  ethyl. 

4294.  Benzole  Ether.    A  colorless  oily 
liquid,  slightly  heavier  than  water,  aromatic 
in  taste  and  odor.    It  boils  at  410°  Fahr.    It 
is  prepared  as  follows:  Take  4  parts  90  per 
cent,  alcohol,  2  parts  crystallized  benzoic  acid, 
and  1  part  concentrated  muriatic  acid ;  distill 
them  together,  and,  as  soon  as  the  product 
turns  milky  when  mixed  with  water,  change 
the  receiver  and  collect  the  subsequent  distil- 
late ;  add  water  to  it,  decant  the  ether  from 
the  surface  of  the  water,  and  boil  it  with 
water  and  a  little  oxide  of  lead  (to  separate 
the  benzoic  acid) ;  lastly,  free  it  from  water 
by  allowing   it   to    stand    over    chloride  of 
calcium.    Benzoic  ether  is  also  called  benzo- 
ate  of  ethyl. 

4295.  Formic  Ether — also  called  for- 
miate  of  ethyl,  is  a  limpid,  aromatic  fluid, 
lighter  than  water;  soluble  in  10  parts  of 
that  fluid ;  has  a  specific  gravity  of  .915,  and 
boils  at  130°  Fahr.    To  obtain  it,  mix  in  a 
retort,  with  a  well-cooled  receiver,  7  parts 
dry  formiate  of  soda,  10  parts  oil  of  vitriol, 
and  6  parts  90  per  cent,  alcohol.    The  greater 
part  will  distill  over  by  the  heat  spontaneous- 
ly developed,  after  which  the  heat  of  a  water- 
bath  may  be  applied.     Purify  it  by  agitation, 
first  with  milk  of  lime,  and  afterwards  with 
chloride  of  calcium.     ( Cooley. ) 

4296.  (Enanthic  Ether— named  also 
cenanthylate  of  ethyl,   and  pelargonic  ether 
(see  No.  1471) — is  colorless,  and  has  a  power- 
ful intoxicating  vinous    odor.      Its    specific 
gravity  is  .862,  and  boils  at  480°  Fahr.     It  is 
obtained  towards  the  end  of  the  distillation 
of  fermented  liquors,   especially  wines,   and 
purified  by  agitation  with  a  weak  solution  of 
carbonate  of  potassa.     (Cooley.)    This  ether 


has  the  odor  of  quince,  and  dissolved  in  a  due 
proportion  of  alcohol,  forms  quince  essence. 

4297.  Chloric  Ether.     This  is  synony- 
mous with    chloroform.      Medicinal    chloric 
ether  consists  of  1  part  chloroform  in  8  parts 
rectified  spirit. 

4298.  Ethyl.     This  is  a   colorless,  in- 
flammable gas,  of  a  specific  gravity  a  little 
over  2  (air  standard).      Under  a  pressure  of 
2J  atmospheres,  at  37.5  Fahr.,  it  assumes  the 
form  of  a  colorless  ethereal  liquid.     It  forms 
the  basis  of  ether,  which  is  oxide  of  ethyl; 
and  of  alcohol,  which  is  the  hydrated  oxide 
of  ethyl ;  its  usefulness  lays  chiefly  in  its  com- 
pounds with  acids.    The  following  are  the 
principal  ones  in  use,  and  will  serve  as  a  guide 
for  the  preparation  of  most  of  the  others. 

4299.  Acetate  of  Ethyl.   Heat  together 
in  a  retort,  3  parts  acetate  of  potassium,  3 
parts  strong  alcohol,  and  2  parts  oil'  of  vitriol. 
The  distilled  product  is  mixed  with  water  to 
separate  the  alcohol;  digested  first  with  a 
little    chalk,     and    afterwards    with    fused 
chloride  of  calcium;    lastly,  it  is  rectified. 
A  fragrant,  limpid  liquid,  having  a  density  of 
.890,  and  boiling  at  165°  Fahr.     (Fownes.) 

4300.  Valerianate   of  Ethyl.      Pass 
dry  hydrochloric  acid  gas  through  an  alcoholic 
solution  of  valerianic  acid.   Its  odor  resembles 
butyric  ether. 

4301.  Amyl.     This  is  the  basis  of  the 
fusel  oil    compounds;    fusel    oil    being    the 
oxide  of  amyl.      It  is  a  colorless,   ethereal 
liquid,  boiling  at  311°  Fahr.    Like  ethyl,  its 
acid  compounds  are  most  used.      (See  No. 
1440.) 

4302.  Acetate  of  Amyl.    Mix  together 
1  part  fusel  oil  and  2  parts  dry  acetate  of  po- 
tassa (potassium — Fownes) ;  add  1  part  con- 
centrated sulphuric  acid,  and  distill.    Purify 
the  distillate  by  washing  it  with  a  dilute  solu- 
tion of  potassa,  and  again  distill  it  from  dry 
chloride  of  calcium.      (Cooley.)    Acetate  of 
amyl,  diluted  with  alcohol,  forms  the  essence 
of  Jargonelle  or  Bergamo  t  pear. 

4303.  Valerianate    of  Amyl.     Mix 
carefully  4   parts  fusel  oil  with  4  parts  sul- 
phuric acid ;  when  cold,  add  5  parts  valerianic 
acid.    "Warm  the  mixture  for  a  few  minutes 
in  a  water-bath,  then  mix  it  with  a  little 
water,  which  causes  the  ether  to  separate. 
Purify  this  by  washing  it  with  water,  and  a 
weak  solution  of  carbonate  of  soda.    An  al- 
coholic solution  of  valerianate  of  amyl  consti- 
tutes apple  essence. 

4304.  Methyl.     This  is  the  basis  of  me- 
thylic  alcohol  or    pyroxylic    spirit,   forming 
compounds  with  the  acids,  analogous  to  those 
of  ethyl. 

4305.  Valerianic  Acid.      A    volatile, 
fatty  acid,  obtained  by  distilling  valerian  root 
along  with  water,    and    Acting  on  the  pro- 
duct with  caustic    potassa,   when  valerian- 
ate  of  potassa  is  formed,  and  a  volatile  oil  is 
separated;   by  evaporating  to  dryness,    the 
latter  is    dissipated,   and    the  dry  mixture, 
treated  with  dilute  sulphuric  acid  and  distilled, 
yields  an  aqueous  solution  of  valerianic  acid. 
By  careful  redistillation  it  may  be  deprived 
of  water.    Valerianic  acid  may  also  be  pro- 
duced artificially,  by  heating  fused  potassa 
along  with  the  oil  of  potato,  or  com  spirit, 
when  valerianate  of  potassa  is  obtained,  the 
acid  of  which  is  identical  in  all  respects  with 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


•4O1 


that  obtained  from  the  root  of  valerian. 
(Liebig.)  It  is  colorless,  limpid,  oleaginous; 
boils  at  270°  Fahr.;  soluble  in  alcohol  and 
ether,  and  in  30  parts  of  water ;  smells  strongly 
of  valerian ;  with  the  bases  it  forms  salts 
called  VALERI  ANATES,  most  of  which  are  solu- 
ble. 

4306.  Succinic  acid.     This  is  obtained 
by  mixing  coarsely  powdered  amber  with  an 
equal  weight  of  sand,  and  distilling  it  by  a 
gradually  increased  heat ;  the  product  is  puri- 
fied by  pressing  it  between  bibulous  paper,  to 
remove  the  oil,  and  then  subliming  it.    It 
forms  colorless,  inodorous  crystalline  scales, 
soluble  in  5  parts  cold  or  2i  parts  boiling 
water ;  is  fusible  and  volatile  without  decom- 
position.   (  Cooley. ) 

4307.  Aldehyd-Ammonia.     Take  sul- 
phuric acid,  6  parts ;  water,  4  parts ;  alcohol  of 
80  per  cent.,  4  parts ;  peroxide  of  manganese 
in  fine  powder,  6  parts.    Dilute  the  acid  with 
the  water,  then  carefully  add  the  alcohol,  and 
next  the  manganese ;  agitate  and  distill  with 
a  gentle  heat,  from  a  spacious  retort  into  a 
receiver  surrounded  with  ice,  and  connected 
with  the  former  perfectly  air-tight.    "When  6 
parts  have   distilled,    re-distill    this  portion 
from  its  own  weight  of  dried  chloride  of  cal- 
cuim  until  3  parts  have  come  over,   which 
must  be  again  rectified  in  the  same  manner, 
until  1  i  parts  of  liquid  are  obtained  in  the 
receiver.    This  liquid  must  then  be  mixed 
with  an  equal  bulk  of  ether,  and  the  mixture 
saturated  with  dry  ammoniacal  gas ;  brilliant 
colorless  prismatic  crystals  will  form,  which, 
after  washing  with  ether  and  drying,  are  pure 
aldehyd-ammonia.    It  smells  like  turpentine ; 
melts  at  160°  Fahr. ;  volatilizes,  unchanged, 
at  212°;  decomposed  by  exposure  to  the  air; 
soluble  in  most  menstrua  except  ether. 

4308.  Aldehyde.      Dissolve    8    parts 
aldehyd-ammonia  in  8  parts  water ;  place  the 
solution  in  a  retort,  and  add  7  parts  sulphuric 
acid,  diluted  with  about  half  its  weight  of 
water ;  then  distill  as  directed  in  last  receipt. 
Rectify  the  product  twice  from  its  own  weight 
of  dried  muriate  of  lime,  at  a  heat  not  exceed- 
ing 86°  Fahr.     It  is  an  ethereous  liquid,  boil- 
ing at  72° ;  neutral,  inflammable,  mixed  with 
water,  alcohol,  and  ether;  decomposed  by  ex- 
posure to  the  air,  into  liquid  acetic  acid; 
spoils  by  age. 

4309.  Sulphuret  of  Carbon.     A  color- 
less, pungent,  fetid  liquid,  exceedingly  vola- 
tile and  combustible.     It  exceeds  all  substan- 
ces in  refractive  power.     In  dispersive  power 
it  exceeds  all  fluid  substances  except  oil  of 
cassia.     It  produces  intense  cold  by  its  evapo- 
ration.    A  spirit  thermometer,  having  its  bulb 
covered  with  cotton,  if  dipped  into  this  fluid 
and  suspended  in  the  air,  rapidly  sinks  from 
60°  to  0°,  and  if  put  into  the  receiver  of  an 
air-pump  it  will  fall  to  — 81°.     Mercury  may 
be  readily  frozen  in  this  way. 

4310.  To  Prepare  Sulphuret  of  Car- 
bon.    Heat  together  in  a  close  vessel  5  parts 
bisulphuret  of  iron,   and  1  part  well  dried 
charcoal ;  or  transmit  the  vapor  of  sulphur 
over  fragments  of  charcoal  heated  to  redness 
in  a  porcelain  tube.     In  either  case  the  result- 
ing compound  should  be  carried  off  as  soon  as 
formed,   by  means  of  a  glass  tube  plunged 
into  pounded  ice,  beneath  which  it  will  col- 
lect.    It  may  be  afterwards  freed  from  adher- 


[  ing  moisture  and  sulphur  by  distilling  it  at  a 
low  temperature  from  chloride  of  calcium. 

4311.  Bisulphide  or  Bisulphuret  of 
Carbon.     This  is  used  in  the  arts  as  a  sol- 
vent for  India-rubber,  gutta  percha,  &c.     To 
procure  it,  Mulder  recommends  the  following 
process  as  the  most  convenient.     Provide  an 
iron  bottle  (a  quicksilver  bottle  answers  very 
well),  and  make  a  second  opening  into  it.    To 
one  opening  adapt  a  copper  tube  bent  twice 
at  right  angles;  and  to  the  other  a  straight 
tube  dipping  into  the  bottle.     Having  nearly 
filled  the  bottle  with  pieces  of  charcoal  (re- 
cently heated  to  redness),  and  having  screwed 
on  the  bent  and  straight  tubes,  place  the 
bottle  in  a  furnace,  closing  the  mouth  of  the 
latter  with  a  stone  or  clay  cover  in  two  pieces, 
hollowed  in  the  centre  so  as  to  fit  the  upper 
part  of  the  bottle,  and  defend  it  from  the 
action  of  the  fire.     Connect  the  curved  tube 
with  a  "Wolffe's  bottle  half-filled  with  water, 
and  placed  in  a  freezing  mixture ;  and  when 
the  iron  bottle  is  sufficiently  heated,  introduce 
by  the  straight  tube  fragments  of  sulphur, 
and  immediately  close  the  mouth  of  the  tube 
with  a  plug.    The  bisulphuret,  as  it  comes 
over,  falls  to  the  bottom  of  the  water.    Sepa- 
rate it  from  the  water,  and  distill  over  dry 
chloride  of  calcium. 

4312.  Terpine.     Leave  oil  of  turpentine 
for  a  long  time  in  contact  with  a  mixture  of 
nitric  acid  and  alcohol.     Crystals  of  terpine 
form.     By  boiling  an  aqueous  solution  of  ter- 
pine with  a  small  quantity  of  sulphuric  or 
other  acid,  terpinole  is  formed,  and  may  be 
separated  by  distillation.    It  has  the  odor  of 
hyacinths. 

4313.  Sugar  Resin.   Mix  16  parts  strong 
sulphuric  acid  with  8  of  the  strongest  nitric 
acid ;  when  cooled  to  70°  Fahr.,  stir  in  1  part 
of  finely-powdered  sugar.    In  a  few  seconds, 
when    the    sugar   has    become   pasty,    take 
it  out  of  the  acid  and  plunge  it  into  cold 
water.      Add  more  sugar  to  the  acid,  and 
proceed  as  before.    "Wash  the  resinous  matter 
carefully,  and  dissolve  it  in  alcohol  or  ether. 
Evaporate  the  solution  with  a  gentle  heat. 
It  is  very  combustible.    Its  solution  may  be 
used  to  render  gunpowder,  lucifer  matches, 
<fec.,  waterproof. 

4314.  Aluminized  Charcoal.    This  is 
recommended  by  Dr.  Stenhouse  as  a  cheap 
and  very  efficient  decolorizing  agent.    Dis- 
solve in  water  54  parts  of  the  sulphate  of 
alumina  of  commerce,  and  mix  with  92£  parts 
of  finely  powdered  wood  charcoal.    "When  the 
charcoal  is  saturated,  evaporate  to  dryness, 
and  heat  to  redness  in  covered  Hessian  cruci- 
bles till  the  water  and  acid  are  dissipated. 
The  charcoal  contains  just  7-J  per  cent,  of 
anhydrous  alumina. 

4315.  Styrol.     Mix  20  parts  of  storax 
with  7  of  carbonate  of  soda,  and  put  them 
into  a  retort  with  water,  and  apply  heat.    A 
limpid  fluid  distills,  which  becomes,  when 
heated  to  a  certain  point,  a  transparent  solid. 

4316.  Turpentine.     An  oleo-resin  flow- 
ing from  the  trunk,  after  removing  the  bark 
of  the  pitch  or  swamp  pine.    It  is  viscid, 
transparent,  and  of  the  consistence  of  honey. 

4317.  Oil  of  Turpentine.  Oil  or 
spirits  of  turpentine  is  obtained  by  distilling 
crude  turpentine  along  with  water.  The  re< 
mainder  left  in  the  still  after  distillation  is 


402 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


resin.  It  congeals  at  14°,  arid  boils  at  312° 
Fahr. ;  its  specific  gravity  is  about  870°.  It 
is  very  inflammable,  and  becomes  resinous  by 
exposure  to  the  air.  When  purified,  by 
redistilling  with  3  or  4  times  its  volume  of 
water,  it  produces  the  camphene  of  com- 
merce. 

4318.  Venice  Turpentine.    A  liquid 
resin  which  exudes  from  the  larch  tree.      The 
Venice  turpentine  usually  met  with  is  a  fac- 
titious article  composed  of  2  gallons  oil  of 
turpentine  added  to  48  pounds  melted  black 
resin.    (Cooley.) 

4319.  To  Purify  Turpentine.    How- 
ever carefully  the  oil  of  turpentine  may  have 
been  distilled,  it  always  leaves,  after  evapora- 
tion, a  disagreeable  odor,  firmly  adhering  to 
the  goods  that  have  been  treated  with  it. 
The  same  is  the  case  with  benzine  and  the 
lighter    petroleum  oils.      This    may  be   ob- 
viated, according  to  Bremer,  by  distillation 
over  tannin.      Articles  treated  with   oil   of 
turpentine    that   has    been  distilled  in  this 
way,  are  heated  to  150°  Fahr.,  when  they 
lose  every  trace  of  odor.    Bremer  adds  that 
this  preparation  is  less  inflammable,  cheaper, 
and  more  agreeable  to  the  workman  than  ben- 
zine. 

4320.  Benzine.     This  is  the  name  given 
in  the  United  States  to  one  of  the  products 
distilled  from  petroleum,  having  a  specific 
gravity  of  about  .73,  or  65°  of  Baume's  light 
hydrometer.     (See  No.  1527.)    It  has  not  yet 
been  frozen,  and  is  dangerously  volatile  at 
all  temperatures.     (See  No.  346.)      Benzine 
scarcely    attacks    asphaltum    or  pitch,    and 
cannot  (like  benzole),  be  converted  by  nitric 
acid  into  nitro-benzole.    It  is  consequently 
useless  for  the  preparation  of  aniline.    Ben- 
zine consists  of  about  84  per  cent,  carbon  and 
16  per  cent,  hydrogen.     (See  No.  440.) 

4321.  Benzole.     In  1825,  Faraday  dis- 
covered a  peculiar  liquid  which  was  deposited 
by  condensation  by  ordinary  coal-gas,   and 
gave  it  the  name  of  bicarburet  of  hydrogen. 
Some  years  afterwards  Mitscherlich,  of  Berlin, 
obtained  the  same  liquid  from  benzoic  acid, 
and  proposed  for  it  the  name  of  benzine. 
Faraday  objected  to  this  name,  as  too  similar 
to  the  distinctive  names  of  the  alkaloids,  as 
strychnine,  morphine,  &c.,  and  decided  to  call 
it  benzole.    The  French,  however,  adhered  to 
Mitseherlich'a  name,  and  continue  to  call  it 
benzine,  causing    considerable  confusion;   as 
benzole,   from,  coal-tar,  is  a  different  liquid 
from  benzine,  obtained  from  petroleum.    (See 
No.  1527.)    Benzole  has  a  specific  gravity  of 
.85,  and  freezes  at  37°  Fahr;  it  dissolves  as- 
phaltum or  pitch  rapidly,  is  volatile  at  all 
temperatures,  but  less  so  than  benzine.    Ben- 
zole can  be  converted  by  nitric  acid  into  nitro- 
benzole,  and,  by  further  treatment,  into  ani- 
line.     (See  No.  2552.)      It  contains   about 
92.5  per  cent,  of  carbon,  and  7.5  per  cent,  of 
hydrogen. 

4322.  Nitro-Benzole.  A  yellowish, 
oily  fluid,  insoluble  in  water;  boils  at  415° 
Fahr.,  and  has  a  specific  gravity  of  1.209; 
known  also  as  essence  of  mirbane.  The 
method  of  preparing  it  is  as  follows :  Place  10 
parts  fuming  nitric  acid  in  a  tubulated  retort 
capable  of  holding  3  times  the  quantity ;  ap- 
ply heat  sufficient  to  produce  gentle  ebullition. 
Insert  a  glass  tube  through  the  upper  neck  of 


the  retort,  and  through  it  introduce  by  de- 
grees, a  drop  at  a  time,  benzole  (not  benzine, 
see  No.  4321),  so  long  as  nitrous  vapors  are 
evolved ;  the  liquid  which  passes  into  the  re- 
ceiver being  poured  back  from  time  to  time 
into  the  retort.  When  the  red  vapors  have 
ceased  to  rise,  distill  off  the  excess  of  benzole, 
if  any,  from  the  acid.  Then  pour  the  contents 
remaining  in  the  retort  into  120  to  150  parts 
cold  water,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  few  days, 
when  the  nitro-benzole  will  be  found  separa- 
ted at  the  lower  part  of  the  vessel.  Pecant 
the  upper  stratum  of  acid,  wash  the  nitro- 
benzole  with  water,  and  keep  it  in  stoppered 
bottles.  This  substance  is  used  as  &  factitious 
oil  of  bitter  almonds,  being,  although  poison- 
ous, far  less  so  than  the  prussic  acid  of  which 
the  real  article  consists.  (Hager.) 

4323.  Urea.      A  crystalline,  colorless, 
transparent  substance,  consisting  of  cyanate 
of  ammonia.    Fresh  urine,  gently  evaporated 
to  the  consistence  of  a  syrup,  is  to  be  treated 
with  its  own  volume  of  nitric  acid  at  24  deg. ; 
the  mixture  is  to  be  shaken  and  immersed  in 
an  ice-bath  to  solidify  the  crystals  of  nitrate 
of  urea;    these   are    washed    with    ice-cold 
water,  drained,  and  pressed  between  sheets  of 
blotting  paper.    When  they  are  thus  separa- 
ted from  foreign  matters,  they  are  to  be  dis- 
solved in  water  to  which  subcarbonate  of  pot- 
ash is  added,  whereby  the  nitric  acid  is  taken 
up,  and  the  urea  set  at  liberty.     This  new 
liquor  is  evaporated  at  a  gentle  heat,  nearly 
to  dryness ;  the  residue  is  treated  with  pure 
alcohol,  which  only  dissolves  the  urea ;  the  so- 
lution is  concentrated,  and  the  urea  crystal- 
fees.     (  Tlienard. ) 

Or:  Mix  28  parts  of  perfectly  dry  ferro- 
cyanide  of  potassium  with  14  parts  of  black 
oxide  of  manganese,  both  pure  and  in  fine 
powder;  then  place  them  on  a  smooth  iron 
plate,  and  heat  them  to  a  dull  red,  over  a 
charcoal  fire.  When  the  mass  begins  to  burn, 
it  must  be  frequently  stirred ;  after  which 
cool  and  dissolve  in  cold  water,  filter,  an&  add 
20J  parts  of  dry  sulphate  of  ammonia,  and 
decant  the  clear  from  the  precipitated  sul- 
phate of  potassa.  Concentrate  at  a  heat  be- 
low 212°,  again  decant,  evaporate  to  dryness, 
and  digest  in  boiling  alcohol  of  80g ;  crystals 
of  urea  will  be  deposited  as  the  solution  cools. 
(Liebig.) 

4324.  Nitrate  of  TJrea.     This  may  be 
prepared  as  in  last  receipt  from  urea ;  or  by 
saturating  the  artificial  urea  (Liebig's  prepa- 
ration) with  nitric  acid. 

4325.  Stearine.     The  solid  portion  of 
fats  which  is  insoluble  in  cold  alcohol.     Pure 
strained  mutton  suet  is  melted  in  a  glass  flask 
with  7  or  8  times  its  weight  of  ether,  and  the 
solution  allowed  to  cool ;  the  soft  pasty  mass 
is  then  transferred  to  a  cloth,  and  is  strongly 
pressed,  as  rapidly  as  possible,  to  avoid  evap- 
oration; the  solid  portion  is  then  dissolved 
again  in  ether,  and  the  solution  allowed  to 
crystallize.     The  product  is  nearly  pure. 

4326.  Iodine.      A    chemical    element 
found  both   in    the  animal,   vegetablet  and 
mineral    kingdoms,  but    exists  in    greatest 
abundance  in    sea-weed.      It   is  principally 
manufactured  from  the  mother-waters  of  kelp. 
Iodine  is  usually  met  with  under  the  form  of 
semi-crystalline    lumps,    having  a    metallic 
lustre,  or  friable  scales,  somewhat  resembling 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


4:03 


gunpowder.  It  has  a  greyish-black  color,  a 
hot,  acrid  taste,  and  a  disagreeable  odor  not 
much  unlike  that  of  chlorine.  It  fuses  at 
225°  Fahr.,  volatilizes  slowly  at  ordinary  tem- 
peratures, boils  at  347°,  and  when  mixed  with 
water  rapidly  rises  along  with  its  vapor  at 
212°.  It  dissolves  in  7000  parts  of  water,  and 
freely  in  alcohol  and  ether.  It  may  be  crys- 
tallized in  large  rhomboidal  plates,  by  expos- 
ing to  the  air  a  solution  of  it  in  hydriodic  acid. 
Iodine,  like  chlorine,  has  an  extensive  range 
of  affinity ;  with  the  salifiable  bases  it  forms 
compounds  termed  IODIDES,  IODTTRETS,  or  HY- 
DRIODATES  ;  and  it  destroys  vegetable  colors. 

4327.  To  Obtain  Iodine.  Saturate  the 
residual  liquor  of  the  manufacture  of  soap 
from  kelp  (or  other  iodine  lye)  of  a  specific 
gravity  of  1.374,  heated  to  230°  Fahr.,  with 
sulphuric  acid  diluted  with  half  its  weight 
of  water ;  cool,  decant  the  clear,  strain,  and 
to  every  12  fluid  ounces  add  1000  grains  of 
black  oxide  of  manganese,  in  powder;  put 
the  mixture  into  a  glass  globe,  or  matrass 
with  a  wide  neck,  over  which  invert  another 
glass  globe,  and  apply  heat  with  a  charcoal 
fire ;  iodine  will  sublime  very  copiously,  and 
condense  in  the  upper  vessel,  which,  as  soon 
as  warm,  should  be  replaced  by  another ;  and 
the  two  globes  thus  applied  in  succession  as 
long  as  violet  vapor  arises.  It  may  be 
washed  out  of  the  globes  with  a  little  cold  wa- 
ter. A  thin  disc  of  wood,  having  a  hole  in  its 
centre,  should  be  placed  over  the  shoulder  of 
the  matrass,  to  prevent  the  heat  from  acting 
on  the  globular  receiver.  On  the  large  scale, 
a  leaden  still  may  be  employed,  and  receivers 
of  stoneware  economically  substituted  for 
glass  ones.  The  top  of  the  leaden  still  is  usu- 
ally furnished  with  a  moveable  stopper,  bv 
which  the  process  may  be  watched,  and  addi- 
tions of  manganese  or  sulphuric  acid  made,  if 
required.  The  addition  of  the  sulphuric  acid 
should  be  made  in  a  wooden  or  stoneware 
basin  or  trough.  To  render  the  iodine  pure, 
it  should  be  dried  as  much  as  possible,  and 
then  resublimed  in  a  glass  or  stoneware  ves- 
sel. (Urc.) 

Or :  Extract  all  the  soluble  part  of  kelp  by 
water,  and  crystallize  the  soda  by  evapora- 
tion ;  to  the  mother-lye  add  oil  of  vitriol  in 
excess,  and  boil  the  liquid,  then  strain  it  to 
separate  some  sulphur,  and  mix  the  filtered 
liquor  with  as  much  manganese  as  there  was 
oil  of  vitriol :  on  applying  heat,  the  iodine 
sublimes  in  the  form  of  greyish-black  scales, 
with  a  metallic  lustre.  The  boiling  is  con- 
ducted in  a  leaden  vessel ;  and  a  cylindrical 
leaden  still  with  a  very  short  head,  and  con- 
nected with  2  or  3  large  globular  glass  rceiv- 
ers,  is  used  for  the  subliming  apparatus.  Care 
must  be  taken  to  watch  the  process,  and  pre- 
vent the  neck  of  the  still  becoming  choked 
with  condensed  iodine.  ( Coolcy. ) 

4328.  To   Dissolve    Iodine   in   Cod 
Liver  Oil.     To  effect  this  it  is  best  to  tritu- 
rate the  iodine  with  half  its  weight  of  iodide 
of  potassium,  and  to  add  gradually  the  oil  so 
as  to  form  a  uniform  mixture.     After  standing 
for  a  few  hours  all  the  iodide  will  be  found  at 
the  bottom  of  the  flask,  leaving  the  iodine  in 
perfect  solution,  the  oil  having  but  little  of 
its  taste.     (Eymael.) 

4329.  Tests   for  Iodine.     Free  iodine 
may  be    recognized    by  —  The  violet   color 


of  its  vapor. — Striking  a  blue  color  with 
starch ;  this  test  is  so  delicate  that  water 
containing  only  TtreWrr  Par^  °f  iodine  acquires 
a  perceptible  blue  tinge  on  the  addition  of 
starch. — Nitrate  of  silver  causes  a  white  pre- 
cipitate in  solutions  containing  iodine. — It 
strikes  a  blue  color  with  opium  and  narceine. 
Iodine  in  combination,  as  it  exists  in  iodic 
acid  and  the  iodates,  does  not  strike  a  blue 
color  with  starch,  without  the  addition  of 
some  deoxydizing  agent,  as  sulphurous  acid 
or  morphia;  and  as  it  exists  in  the  iodides, 
not  uutil  the  base  is  saturated  with  an  acid 
(as  the  sulphuric  or  nitric),  when  iodine  being 
set  free,  immediately  reacts  upon  the  starch. 
An  excess  of  either  acid  or  alkali  destroys  the 
action  of  the  test.  By  mixing  the  liquid  con- 
taining the  iodine  with  the  starch  and  sul- 
phuric acid,  and  lightly  pouring  thereon  a 
small  quantity  of  aqueous  chlorine,  a  very 
visible  blue  zone  will  be  developed  at  the  line 
of  contact.  (Balard.)  Solutions  containing 
iodates  yield,  with  nitrate  of  silver,  a  white 
precipitate,  soluble  in  ammonia ;  the  iodides, 
under  the  same  circumstances,  give  a  pale 
yellowish  precipitate  with  nitrate  of  silver, 
scarcely  soluble  in  ammonia ;  a  bright  yellow 
one  with  acetate  of  lead ;  and  a  scarlet  one 
with  bichloride  of  mercury.  The  iodates 
deflagrate  when  thrown  on  burning  coals, 
but  the  iodides  do  not.  The  iodates  may 
also  be  tested  as  iodides,  by  first  heating 
them  to  redness,  by  which  they  lose  their 
oxygen,  and  are  converted  into  iodides. 

4330.  Kelp.    The  alkaline  ashes  obtained 
by  burning  various  kinds  of  sea- weed. 

4331.  Galipot.     A  French  term  for  thai, 
portion  of  turpentine  which  concretes  on  the 
trunk  of  the  tree  when  wounded,  and  is  re- 
moved during  the  winter. 

4332.  Phosphorus.     Phosphorus  is  a 
pale  yellow,  semi-transparent,  and  highly  com- 
bustible solid;   specific  gravity  1.77  (water 
standard) ;  melts  at  108°  Fahr.,  and  unites 
with   oxygen,   forming  acids,   and  with  the 
metals,  forming  PHOSPHIDES  or  PHOSPHURETS. 
It  is  soluble  in  ether,  naphtha,  and  the  oils. 
From  its  great  inflammability  it  can  only  be 
safely  kept  under  water.    In  commerce  it  is 
always  packed  in  tin  cylinders,  soldered  air- 
tight.    It  is  a  powerful  corrosive  poison.  The 
specific   gravity  of   its  vapor    is  4.327    (air 
standard). 

4333.  To  Obtain  Phosphorus.  Ground 
bone-ash,  12  parts;  water,  24  parts;  mix  to  a 
pap  in  a  large  tub,  and  add  in  a  slender  stream 
(still  stirring)  oil  of  vitriol,  8  parts ;  work  well 
together,  adding  more  water  if  required ;  in 
24  hours  thin  with  water,  agitate  well,  and,  if 
convenient,  heat  the  mixture  in  a  leaden  pan, 
and  as  soon  as  the  paste  has  lost  its  granular 
character,  transfer  it  into  a  series  of  tall  casks ; 
largely  dilute  with  water,  and,  after  settling, 
decant  the  clear  portion;   wash  the  residue 
well  with  water,  mix  the  clear  liquids,  and 
evaporate  in  a  copper  or  lead  pan,  till  the 
calcareous  deposit  (gypsum)  becomes  consid- 
erable, then  cool,  decant  the  clear,  and  drain 
the  sediment  on  a  filter ;  evaporate  the  clear 
liquid  to  the  consistence  of  honey  (say  to  4 
parts),  add  1  part  of  powdered  charcoal,  and 
evaporate  to  dryness  in  an  iron  pot,  or  till  the 
bottom  of  the  latter  becomes  red  hot ;  the  dry 
mixture,  when  cold,  is  put  into  earthen  retorts 


4,04, 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


well  covered  with  luting  and  properly  dried, 
and  heat  is  applied  sideways  rather  than  at 
the  bottom,  by  means  of  an  air  furnace.  The 
beak  of  the  retort  is  connected  with  a  copper 
tube,  the  other  end  of  which  is  made  to  dip 
about  i  inch  beneath  the  surface  of  lukewarm 
water  placed  in  a  trough  or  wide-mouthed 
bottle.  The  distilled  product  is  purified  by 
squeezing  it  through  chamois  leather  under 
warm  water,  and  is  then  moulded  for  sale  by 
melting  it  iinder  water  heated  to  about  145° 
Fahr.,  plunging  the  wider  end  of  a  slightly 
tapering  but  straight  glass  tube  into  the 
water,  sucking  this  up  to  the  top  of  the  glass, 
so  as  to  warm  and  wet  it,  next  immersing  the 
end  into  the  liquid  phosphorus,  and  sucking  it 
up  to  any  desired  height.  The  bottom  of  the 
tube  being  now  closed  with  the  finger,  it  is 
withdrawn,  and  transferred  to  a  pan  of  cold 
water  to  congeal  the  phosphorus,  which  will 
then  commonly  fall  out,  or  may  be  easily  ex- 
pelled by  pressure  with  a  piece  of  wire.  Keep 
it  in  places  where  neither  light  nor  heat  has 
access,  in  phials  filled  with  cold  water  which 
has  been  boiled,  to  expel  all  air,  and  enclose 
the  phials  in  opaque  cases. 

4334.  Baldwin's  Phosphorus.     Heat 
nitrate  of  lime  till  it  melts ;  keep  it  fused  for 
10  minutes,  and  pour  it  into  a  heated  iron 
ladle.    When  cool,  break  it  into  pieces,  and 
keep  it  in  a  closely-stoppered  bottle.    After 
exposure  to  the  sun's  rays,  it  emits  a  white 
light  in  the  dark. 

4335.  Canton's  Phosphorus.    Put  cal- 


test  tube  by  the  heat  of  hot  water,  or  add  a 
larger  quantity  to  some  oil  of  lavender,  in 
which  it  will  dissolve  spontaneously.  Keep 
in  a  close  phial. 

4340.  Pyrophorus.      This   is    a  term 
given  to  substances  which  inflate  spontane- 
ously when  exposed  to  the  air.    "When  a  small 
quantity  of  any  of  the  powders  given  below 
is  exposed  to  the  air,  it  rapidly  becomes  hot 
and  inflames.     Their  action  is  quicker  in  a 
damp  atmosphere,  or  by  the  moisture  of  the 
breath. 

4341.  Homberg's    Pyrophorus.     Stir 
equal  parts  of  alum  and  brown  sugar  (or  3 
parts  alum  and  1  part  wheat  flour)  in  an 
iron  ladle  over  the  fire  until  dry ;  then  put  it 
into  an  earthen  or  coated  glass  phial,  and  keep 
it  at  a  red  heat  so  long  as  flame  is  emitted ; 
it  must  then  be  carefully  stopped  up  and 
cooled. 

4342.  Hare's  Pyrophorus.   Lampblack, 
3  parts;  burnt  alum,  4  parts;   carbonate  of 
potash,  8  parts ;  as  above. 

4343.  Gray    Lussac's    Pyrophorus. 
Sulphate  of  potash,  9  parts ;  calcined  lamp- 
black, 5  parts ;  as  last. 

4344.  Goebel's    Pyrophorus.      Heat 
tartrate  of  lead  red  hot  in  a  glass  tube,  and 
then  hermetically  seal  it. 

4345.  Dextrine   or    Starch    Gum. 
Heat  4  gallons  water  in  a  water-bath  to  be- 
tween 77°  and  86°  Fahr.;   stir  in  li  or  2 
pounds  finely  ground  malt ;  raise  the  temper- 
ature to  140°,  add  10  pounds  potato  or  other 


cined  oyster  shells  in  layers,  alternately  with  starch ;  mix  all  thoroughly,  raise  the  heat  to 


sulphur,  and  heat  strongly  in  a  covered  cruci- 
ble for  an  hour.  This  is  also  luminous  in  the 
dark  after  exposure  to  the  sun. 

4336.  Phosphorus    Bottles.     Put   12 
grains  phosphorus  with  i  ounce  olive  oil  in 
a  1  ounce  phial ;  and  place  it,  loosely  corked,  in 
a  basin  of  hot  water ;  as  soon  as  the  phospho- 
rus is  melted,  remove  the  phial,  cork  it  se- 
curely, and  agitate  it  until  nearly  cold.     On 
being  uncorked  it  emits  sufficient  light  in  the 
dark  to  see  the  time  by  a  watch,  and  will 
retain  this  property  for  some  years  if  not  too 
frequently  employed. 

4337.  To  Coat  Phosphorus  with  Cop- 
per.     Dr.    Siewert,   of    Halle,    suggests    a 
method  by  which  the  sticks  can  be  kept,  even 
in  the  light,  without  undergoing  deteriora- 
tion.   For  this  purpose,  he  takes  advantage 
of  the  well-known  property  of  phosphorus  to 
reduce  some  metals  from  their  solutions.    The 
sticks  of  phosphorus  are  put  into  a  cold  satu- 
rated   solution    of  the  sulphate  of  copper. 
Presently  they  become  coated  with  a  deposit 
of  metallic  copper,  and  in  this  state  resemble 
copper  rods.     They  can  now  be  removed  to  a 
bottle  containing  water,  and  will  keep  for 
years.    When  a  stick  is  wanted  for  any  pur- 
pose, on  removing  the  metallic  film,  and  scra- 
ping" off  a  black  deposit  underneath  it,  the 
phosphorus  will  be  found  to  have  retained  its 
translucency,  as  if  it  had  been  freshly  cast. 

4338.  To   Reduce   Phosphorus    to 
Powder.     Melt  the  phosphorus  in  a  phial 
containing  some  fresh  urine,  or  a  solution  of 
pure  urea,  by  the  heat  of  hot  water,  and  agi- 
tate until    cold.      Rectified    spirit    may    be 
used  instead  of  urine  or  urea.    (Sec  No.  1899.) 

4339.  Phosphorescent  Oil.     Dissolve 
1  grain  phosphorus  in  1  ounce  olive  oil  in  a 


r :  Mix  500  parts  potato  starch  with  1500 
s  of  cold  distilled  water  and  8  parts  of 


158°,  and  keep  it  between  that  and  167C  for 
20  or  30  minutes.  When  the  liquor  becomes 
thin,  instantly  raise  the  heat  to  the  boiling 
point,  to  prevent  the  formation  of  sugar. 
Strain  the  liquor,  and  evaporate  it  to  dryness, 
as  the  dextrine  will  not  keep  long  in  a 'liquid 
form.  Another  method  is  to  boil  solution  of 
starch  with  a  few  drops  of  sulphuric  acid,  fil- 
ter the  solution,  and  add  alcohol  to  throw 
down  the  dextrine. 

Or: 
parts 

pure  oxalic  acid;  place  this  mixture  in  a  suit- 
able vessel  on  a  water-bath,  and  heat  until  a 
small  sample  tested  with  iodine  solution  does 
not  produce  the  reaction  of  starch.  "When 
this  is  found  to  be  the  case,  immediately  re- 
move the  vessel  from  the  water-bath,  and 
neutralize  the  liquid  with  pure  carbonate  of 
lime.  After  having  been  left  standing  for  a 
couple  of  days  the  liquor  is  filtered,  and  the 
clear  filtrate  evaporated  upon  a  water-bath 
until  the  mass  has  become  quite  a  pa.*tc, 
which  is  removed  by  a  spatula,  and,  having 
been  made  into  a  thin  cake,  is  placed  upon 
paper  and  further  dried  in  a  warm  place ;  2*0 
parts  of  pure  dextrine  are  thus  obtained.  (See 
No.  2925.) 

4346.  Albumen.      A  substance  which 
enters  largely  into  the  composition  of  animal 
bodies.     It  is  scarcely  soluble  in  water,  but 
dissolves  readily  by  adding  to  the  water  a 
small    portion    of   caustic   soda    or  potassa. 
White  of  egg  is  a  solution  of  albumen. 

4347.  To  Make  Albumen.      Expose 
the  strained  white  of  egg,  or  the  serum  of 
bullock's  blood  in  a  thin  stratum,  to  a  current 
of  dry  air,  until  it  hardens  into  a  solid  trans- 
parent substance. 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


4:05 


Or :  Agitate  strained  -white  of  egg  with  10 
or  12  times  its  bulk  of  alcohol,  and  collect 
the  flocculent  precipitate  on  a  muslin  filter. 
Dry  it  at  a  temperature  not  over  120°  Fahr. 

4348.  Tests  for  Albumen.    A  solution 
of  bichloride  i>f  mercury  dropped  into  a  fluid 
containing  albumen,  occasions  a  white  preci- 
pitate.   Tannin  or  tincture  of  galls  gives  a 
yellow,  pitchy  precipitate. 

4349.  Sulphur.     Sulphur  or  brimstone 
is  usually  of  a  pale  yellow  color ;  melts  to  a 
clear,  thin  fluid,  and  volatile  at  about  232° 
Fahr.,  when  it  inflames  spontaneously  in  the 
open  air,  and  burns  with  a  bluish  flame.    It 
is  insoluble  in  water  and  in  alcohol ;  soluble  in 
turpentine  and  fat  oils,  and  freely  so  in  bisul- 
phuret  of  carbon  and  hot  liquor  of  potassa. 
"With  oxygen  it  forms  sulphuric  and  sulphur- 
ous acids,  and  with  the  metals  it  combines  as 
SULPHURETS  or  SULPHIDES.  Its  specific  gravity 
is  from  1.982  to  2.045  (water  standard).     The 
specific  gravity  of  its    vapor  is  6.648   (air 
standard). 

4350.  Amorphous    or    Brown    Sul- 
phur.    Prepared  Irom  sublimed  sulphur  by 
melting  it,  increasing  the  heat  to  320°  Fahr., 
and  continuing  it  at  that  temperature  for  about 
30  minutes,  or  until  it  becomes  brown  and 
viscid ;  it  is  then  poured  into  water.     It  is 
now  ductile  like  wax,  may  be  easily  moulded, 
and  when  cooled  does  not  again  become  fluid 
below  600°  Fahr. 

4351.  Precipitated    Sulphur.      Sub- 
limed sulphur,  1  part;  dry  slacked  lime,  2  parts; 
water,  25  parts ;  boil  for  2  or  3  hours,  dilute 
with  25  parts  more  water,  filter,  precipitate 
by  muriatic  acid,  and  drain ;  well  wash,  and 
dry  the  precipitate.     Resembles  sublimed  sul- 
phur in  its  general  properties,  but  is  much 
paler,  and  in  a  finer  state  of  division. 

4352.  To  Purify  Precipitated   Sul- 
phur.    The  precipitated  sulphur  of  the  shops 
contains  about  two-thirds  of  its  weight  of  sul- 
phate of  lime  (plaster  of  Paris),  owing  to  the 
substitution  of  sulphuric  for  muriatic  acid  in 
its  preparation.     This  fraud  is  detected  by 
heating  a  little  of  the  suspected  sample  in  an 
iron  spoon   or  shovel,  when  the   sulphur  is 
volatilized,   and   leaves  behind  the  sulphate 
of  lime,  which,  when  mixed  with  water  and 
gently  dried,  gives  "the  amount  of  the  adul- 
teration.    A  still  simpler  plan  is  to  dissolve 
out  the  sulphur  with  a  little  hot  oil  of  turpen- 
tine or  liquor  of  potassa. 

4353.  Roll   Sulphur.     Crude  sulphur, 
purified     by  melting  and    skimming   it,    is 
poured   into   cylindrical  moulds.       Common 
roll  sulphur  freqiiently  contains  from  3  to  7 
per  cent,  of  yellow  arsenic. 

4354.  Sublimed  Sulphur.     Sometimes 
called   Flowers  of  Sulphur.     This  is  prepared 
by  subliming  sulphur  in  iron  vessels.     For 
medical   purposes    it  is  well    washed    with 
water  and  dried  by  a  gentle  heat.     (Cooley.) 
An  aqueous  solution  of  pure  anhydrous  car- 
bonate of  soda  will  dissolve  an  appreciable 
quantity  of  flowers  of  sulphur,   by  digesting 
for  10  hours  at  212°  Fahr.     (Pole.) 

4355.  Sulphur  Vivum.     Crude  native 
sulphur,  or  blach  sulphur,  is  of  a  grey  or  mouse- 
colored  powder.      The  same  names  are  given 
to  the  residuum  in  the  subliming  pots,  after 
the  preparation  of  flowers  of  sulphur ;  it  gen- 
erally contains  arsenic. 


4356.  Tersulphuret  of  Arsenic.     The 

tersulphuret  or  tcrsulphide  of  arsenic  is  a  fine 
golden  yellow  substance  in  lumps  or  powder. 
It  is  found,  ready  formed,  m  nature,  or  is  pre- 
pared artificially  by  sublimation  from  arseni- 
ous  acid  and  sulphur.  The  artificial  sul- 
phuret,  King's  Yellow,  often  contains  80  to  90 
per  cent,  of  white  arsenic. 

4357.  Camphor.     The  camphor  of  com- 
merce is  a  natural  production.     It  is  princi- 
pally extracted  from  the  laurel  camphor  tree, 
but  it  is  also  found  in  several  other  members 
of  the  vegetable  kingdom.   It  is  a  white,  semi- 
crystalline    solid,   very  volatile  at  common 
temperatures ;  soluble  in  alcohol,  ether,  oils, 
and  acetic  acid,  and  slightly  but  sufficiently 
so  in  water  to  impart  its  characteristic  smell 
and  taste.    The  Chinese  and  Japanese  extract 
the  camphor  by  cutting  the  wood  into  small 
pieces,  and  boiling  it  with  water  in  iron  ves- 
sels— which  are  covered  with  large    earthen 
capitals  or  domes — lined    with    rice    straw. 
As  the  water  boils,  the  camphor  is  volatilized 
along  with  the  steam,  and  condenses  on  the 
straw,  under  the  form  of  greyish  granulations. 
In  this  state  it  is  collected  and  transported  to 
Europe,  when  it  undergoes  the  process  of  re- 
fining into  white  camphor.    To  refine  it,  100 
parts  of  crude  camphor  are  mixed  with  2 
parts  each  of  quicklime  and  animal  charcoal, 
and  placed  in  a  thin  globular   glass  vessel 
sunk  in  a  sand-bath.     The  heat  is  then  cau- 
tiously applied,  and  the  vessel  gradually  and 
carefully  raised  out  of  the  sand  as  the  sub- 
limation goes  on.    When  this  is  completed, 
the  whole  is  allowed  to  cool.     If  the  process 
be  conducted  too  slowly,  or  at  a  heat  under 
375°  Fahr.,  the  product  will  be  flaky,  and  con- 
sequently unsaleable,   without  remelting  or 
subliming. 

4358.  To  Pulverize  Camphor.     Cam- 
phor may  be  beaten  in  a  mortar  for  some 
time,  without  being  reduced  to  powder,  but 
if  it  be  first  broken  with  the  pestle,  and  then 
sprinkled  with  a  few  drops  of  spirit  of  wine, 
it  may  be   readily  pulverized.      By  adding 
water  to  an  alcoholic  or  ethereal  solution  of 
camphor,  it  is  precipitated  under  the  form  of 
an  impalpable  powder  of  exquisite  whiteness, 
which  may  be  collected  and  spontaneously 
dried  on  a  filter;  the  addition  of  a  minute 
quantity  of  carbonate  of  magnesia  to    the 
water  (say  1  drachm  for  each  16  ounces  of 
camphor),  before  mixing  it  with  the  camphor 
solution,  will  prevent  the  powdered  camphor 
from  hardening  again  after  drying. 

4359.  Glycerine.    This  is  a  sweet,  syrupy 
liquid,  formed  during  the  saponification  of  oils 
and  fats.    Its  various  uses  will  be  found  em- 
bodied in  their  respective  receipts. 

4360.  To  Obtain   Commercial   Gly- 
cerine.    The  sweet  stearine   liquor  of  the 
stearine  manufacturers  is  used  for  this  pur- 
pose.   The  lime  contained  in  it  is  precipitated 
by  a  stream  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  or  by  a  solu- 
tion of  carbonate  of  soda,  carefully  avoiding 
adding  the  latter  in  excess ;  the  liquor  thus 
obtained  is  then  boiled  a  little,  filtered,  and 
evaporated  to  a  syrupy  consistence.     Glycer- 
ine is  also  obtained  from  the  water  and  wash- 
ings left  in  the  manufacture  of  lead  or  litharge 
plaster,   by  mixing  them  together,  filtering, 
and  submitting  them    to    the   action    of  a 
stream  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  which  pre- 


406 


MISCELLANEOUS    CHEMICALS. 


cipitates  the  lead;  the  clear  liquid,  after 
settling,  is  decanted,  filtered,  and  evapora- 
ted to  the  consistence  of  syrup,  in  a  -water- 
bath. 

4361.  Solvent  Power  of  Glycerine. 
Klever  gives  the  following  parts  of  various 
chemicals  soluble  in  100  parts  glycerine. 

PABTS. 

Arsenious  acid 20 

Arsenic  acid 20 

Benzoic  acid 10 

Boracicacid 10 

Oxalicacid 15 

Tannicacid 50 

Alum 40 

Carbonate  of  ammonia 20 

Muriate  of  ammonia 20 

Tartrate  of  antimony  and  potassa 5.50 

Atropia 3 

Sulphate  of  atropia 33 

Chloride  of  barium 10 

Brucia 2.25 

Sulphide  of  calcium 5 

Quinine 50 

Sulphate  of  quinine 6.70 

Tannate   of  quinia 25 

Acetate  of  copper 10 

Sulphate  of  copper 30 

Tartrate  of  iron  and  potassa 8 

Lactate  of  iron 16 

Sulphate  of  iron 25 

Corrosive  sublimate 7.50 

Cyanide  of  mercury 27 

Iodine 1.90 

Morphia 45 

Acetate  of  morphia 20 

Muriate  of  morphia 20 

Phosphorus 20 

Acetate  of  lead 20 

Arseniate  of  potassa 50 

Chlorate  of  potassa 3.50 

Bromide  of  potassium 25 

Cyanide  of  potassium 32 

Iodide  of  potassium 40 

Arseniate  of  soda 50 

Bicarbonate  of  soda 8 

Borate  of  soda 60 

Carbonate  of  soda 98 

Chlorate  of  soda 20 

Sulphur 10 

Strychnia 25 

Nitrate  of  strychnia 4 

Sulphate  of  strychnia 22.50 

Urea 50 

Veratria 1 

Chloride  of  zinc 50 

Iodide  of  zinc 40 

Sulphate  of  zinc 35 

4362.  To  Purify  Glycerine.     Commer- 
cial glycerine  is  rendered  pure  by  diluting  it 
with  water ;  it  is  then  decolored  with  a  little 
animal  charcoal  (see  No.  1729),  filtered,  and 
evaporated  to  the  consistence  of  a  thin  syrup, 
after  which  it  is   further    evaporated    in  a 
vacuum,  or  over  sulphuric  acid,  until  it  ac- 
quires a  specific  gravity  of  1.265. 

4363.  To  Purify  Glycerine.    Bottles 
sent  out  from  wholesale  and  manufacturing 
houses,  labeled,    "Pure  Glycerine,"  do  not 
always  contain   what    their   labels    declare. 
Some  samples  called  pure  are  rich  in  lead, 
others  contain  chlorine,  most  are  diluted  with 
water,  and  the  best  is  generally  acid.     It  is 
necessary,  therefore,  to  purify  even  the  best 


samples  by  digesting  them  for  several  days 
with  powdered  chalk,  allowing  the  latter  to 
subside,  and  decanting.  (Schacht.) 

4364.  Tests  for  the  Purity  of  Glycer- 
ine.    Pure  glycerine  has  a  neutral  reaction, 
and  on  evaporation  in  a  porcelain  dish  leaves 
only  a  very  slight  carbonaceous  crust,  while 
the  impure  has  a  much  greater  percentage  of 
coaly  matter.    The  pure  article  does  not  be- 
come brown  when  treated,  drop  by  drop,  with 
concentrated  sulphuric  acid,  even  after  several 
hours ;  the  impure  becomes  brown  even  when 
but    slightly    adulterated.      Pure    glycerine, 
treated  with  pure  nitric  acid  and  a  solution  of 
nitrate  of  silver,   does  not  become  cloudy, 
while  the  impure  exhibits  a  decidedly  milky 
appearance.     Sometimes   the  impure  article 
becomes  blackened  with  the  sulphide  of  am- 
monium.    Oxalatc  of  ammonia  produces  a 
black  clouding ;  lime-water  sometimes  causes 
a  milky  discoloration.     Pure  glycerine,  how- 
ever, constantly  remains  perfectly  uncolored, 
and  clear  as  water,  the  impure  becoming  col- 
ored to  a  greater  or  less  extent.    If  a  few 
drops  are  rubbed  between  the  fingers,  pure 
glycerine  causes  no  fatty  smell ;  the  contrary 
is,,  the  case  with  the  impure,  especially  if  a  few 
drops  of  dilute  sulphuric  acid  be  introduced. 
(Roller.)    (See  No.  1151.) 

4365.  Gelatine.     Animal  jelly  obtained 
by  heat  from  the  organic  tissue  of  the  bones, 
tendons,  and  ligaments,  the  cellular  tissue,  the 
skin,  and  the  serous  membranes  in  contact 
with  water.     Glue  and  size  are  coarse  varie- 
ties of  this  substance,  prepared  from  hoofs, 
hides,  skins,  <fec.;  and  isinglass  is  a  purer  .kind, 
prepared  from  the  air-bladders  and  some  other 
membranes  of  fish.    Gelatine  is  insoluble  in 
cold  water,  but  dissolves  with  greater  or  less 
readiness  on  the  application  of  heat,  forming 
a  tremulous  and  transparent  jelly  on  cool- 
ing.    It  is  insoluble  in  alcohol  or  ether,  and 
is  decomposed  by  strong  alkali  or  acid. 

4366.  To  Obtain  Gelatine  from  Bones. 
The  bones  of  good  meat  form  most  excellent 
materials  for  making  soups  and  gravies,  as  is 
well  known  to  every  good  cook.     In  France, 
soup  is  extensively  made  by  dissolving  bruised 
bones  in  a  steam  heat  of  2  or  3  days'  continu- 
ance, and  also  by  dissolving  out  the  earthy 
part  by  digestion  in  weak  muriatic  acid,  when 
a  lump  of  gelatine  is  obtained,  which,  after 
being  well  washed  with  water,  will  dissolve 
by  boiling,  and  is  equal  to  isinglass  for  all  the 
purposes  of  making  soups  find  jellies.     Proust 
has  recommended  the  following  process  for 
making  bone    gelatines :     Crash    the    bones 
small,  then  boil  them  for  15  minutes  in  a  ket- 
tle of  water,  cool,  and  skim  the  fat  off,  which 
is  fit  for  all  common  purposes.     The  bones 
are  then  ground,  and  boiled  in  8  to  10  times 
their  weight  of  water,  of.  which  that  already 
used  must  form  a  part,  until  evaporated  to 
one-half,  when  a  very  nutritious  jelly  is  ob- 
tained.    A  copper  vessel  should  not  be  used, 
as  the  jelly  acts  upon  this  metal.     An  iron 
digester  is  the  most  suitable.     The  bones  of 
boiled  meat  are  nearly  as  productive  as  those 
of  fresh  meat,  but  roasted  meat  bones  scarcely 
afford  any  jelly. 

4367.  Bone  Gelatine.     The  bones  are 
boiled  to  remove  the  fat,  then  digested  in  di- 
luted muriatic  acid  till  the  earthy  matter  of 
the  bone  is  dissolved.    The  gelatine,  which 


TESTS    OR    REAGENTS. 


407 


retains  the  form  of  the  bone,  is  washed  in  a 
stream  of  water,  plunged  in  hot  water,  and 
again  in  cold,  to  remove  all  remains  of  acid, 
and  sometimes  put  into  a  solution  of  carbonate 
of  soda.  "When  well  washed,  it  is  dried  on 
open  baskets  or  nets.  By  steeping  the  raw 
gelatine  in  cold  water,  dissolving  it  in  boiling 
water,  evaporating  the  jelly,  and  cutting  it 
into  tablets,  it  may  be  dried  and  preserved  in 
that  form. 

4368.  Nelson's  Patent  Gelatine.    This 
is  made  from  cuttings  of  the  hides  of  cattle, 
and  skins  of  calves.     These,  freed  from  hair, 
flesh,  fat,  <fcc.,  are  washed  and  scoured,  then 
macerated  for  10  days  in  a  lye  of  caustic  soda, 
and  afterwards  placed  in  covered  vessels  at  a 
temperature  of  60°  to  70°  Pahr.  until  they 
become  tender ;  then  washed  from  the  alkali, 
exposed  to  the  vapor  of  burning  sulphur  until 
they  become  sensibly  acid,  dissolved  in  earthen 
vessels    heated  to  150°,   strained,  put    jpto 
settling  vessels  heated  to  100°  or  120°  for 
nine  hours,  the   clear  liquor  drawn  off  and 
poured  on  the  cooling  slabs  to  the  depth  of  £ 
an  inch.     When   cold,   the   jelly    is  cut   in 
pieces,  washed  till  free  from  acid,  redissolved 
at  85°,  poured  on  slabs,  cut  up,  and  dried  on 
nets. 

4369.  Gelatine  Wafers.    Dissolve  fine 
glue  or  isinglass  in  water,  so  that  the  solution, 
when  cold,  may  be  consistent.    Pour  it  hot 
on  a  plate  of  glass  (previously  warmed  with 
steam  and  slightly  greased),  fitted  in  a  metal- 
lic frame  whose  edges  are  just  as  high  as  the 
wafers  should  be  thick.    Lay  on  the  surface  a 
Becond  glass  plate,  also  hot  and  greased,  so  as 
to  touch   every  point  of  the  gelatine  while 
resting  on  the  edges  of  the  frame.    By  its 
pressure  the  thin  cake  is  rendered  uniform. 
When  the  glass  plates  have  cooled,  the  gela- 
tine will  be  solid,  and  may  be  removed.     It  is 
cut  into  discs  of  different  sizes  by  means  of 
proper  punches. 

4370.  Tests  for  Gelatine.     Gelatine 
dissolved  in  water  is  recognized  by  forming  a 
jelly  on  cooling ;  it  is  precipitated  by  alcohol; 
corrosive  sublimate  throws  down  a  whitish, 
flocculent  precipitate;   a  solution  of  tannin, 
or  an  infusion  of  galls,  gives  a  curdy,  yellow- 
ish-white precipitate,  which,  on  being  stirred, 
coheres  into  an  elastic  mass,  insoluble  in  wa- 
ter, and,  when  dry,  assumes  the  appearance  of 
over-tanned  leather. 

4371.  Asbestos.     A  natural  substance, 
resembling  flax,  capable  of  withstanding  un- 
changed  a  considerable  degree   of  heat;    it 
may,  therefore,  be  cleansed  or  purified  by  fire. 
It  is  also  called  Amianthus. 


TestS  Or  Reagents.  These  are 
substances  employed  to  determine  the 
name  or  character  of  any  other  substance,  or 
to  detect  its  presence  in  compounds.  They 
are  used  in  both  the  solid  and  fluid  state ; 
generally  the  latter,  when  they  are  known 
as  liquid  tests.  Their  application  as  reagents 
is  called  testing.  .  For  this  purpose  they  are 
commonly  added  drop  by  drop  to  the  liquid 
to  be  tested,  contained  in  a  test-tube  or  test- 
glass.  A  simple  way  of  employing  them  is  to 
place  a  few  drops  or  a  small  portion  of  the 


liquid  or  substance  for  examination  on  a  slip 
of  common  white  glass,  and  to  add  to  them  a 
drop  of  the  test  liquid.  By  placing  the  glass 
over  a  sheet  of  white  paper,  the  effect  will  be 
rendered  more  perceptible. 

A  number  of  tests,  not  included  here,  refer- 
ring to  substances  which  hold  a  prominent 
place  in  some  special  process,  have  been  in- 
troduced in  immediate  connection  with  the 
description  of  those  substances,  and  will  be 
found  in  the  index  under  the  head  of  the  arti- 
cle to  be  tested. 

4373.  Test  for  Chicory  in  Coffee. 
Place  a  spoonful  of  ground  coffee  gently  on 
the  surface  of  a  glass  of  cold  water.  The 
pure  coffee  will  float  for  some  time,  and 
scarcely  color  the  water ;  the  chicory,  if  any 
be  present,  rapidly  absorbs  the  water  and  sinks 
to  the  bottom,  communicating  a  deep  reddish- 
brown  tint  as  it  falls. 

Or  a  spoonful  of  ground  coffee  may  be 
placed  in  a  small  bottle  of  cold  water,  and 
shaken  for  a  moment ;  if  the  sample  of  coffee 
is  pure,  it  will  rise  to  the  surface  and  hardly 
tinge  the  water,  whilst  if  the  coffee  is  adul- 
terated with  chicory,  the  latter  will  fall  to 
the  bottom  and  color  the  water  as  before.  A 
similar  coloration  of  the  water  will  be  pro- 
duced, however,  if  the  coffee  be  adulterated 
with  burnt  sugar,  which  is  the  basis  of  the  so- 
called  "coffee  essences  or  extracts." 

.4374.  To  Test  Tea.  Pure  China  tea  ia 
not  turned  black  by  being  put  into  water  im- 
pregnated with  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas, 
nor  does  it  tinge  spirit  of  hartshorn  blue. 
The  infusion  is  amber-colored,  and  is  not 
reddened  by  adding  a  few  drops  of  oil  of  vitriol 
to  it. 

4375.  To  Detect  Copper  in  Liquids. 
Spirit  of  hartshorn  turns  them  blue.     There- 
fore tea  has  not  been  dried  on  copper  if  an 
infusion  of  it  is  not  turned  blue  by  this  mix- 
ture.      Cider,   being    passed    through  brass 
pots,  is  detected  by  this  experiment. 

4376.  To  Detect  Watered  Milk.    The 
cheapest  and  easiest  method  of  adulterating 
milk  is  by  adding  water,  and  we  may  readily 
ascertain  the  exact  extent  of  adulteration  by 
the  following  plan.    If  a  glass  tube,  divided 
into  100  parts,  be  filled  with  milk  and  left 
standing  ior  24  hours,  the  cream  will  rise  to 
the  upper  part  of  the  tube,  and  occupy  from 
11  to  13  divisions,  if  the  milk  is  genuine. 

4377.  To  Detect  Chalk  in  Milk.    Di- 
lute the  milk  with  water ;  the  chalk,  if  there  be 
any,  will  settle  to  the  bottom  in  an  hour  or 
two ;  put  to  the  sediment  an  acid,  vinegar  for 
instance,  and  if  effervescence  take  place  it  is 
chalk. 

4378.  To  Detect  Mineral  Substances 
in  Flour.     The  presence  of  a  mineral  adul- 
teration of  flour  or  meal  may  bo  readily  de- 
tected.    A  small  quantity   of  the  suspected 
flour  is  shaken  up  in  a  glass  tube  with  chloro- 
form.    All  mineral  adulterations  will  collect 
at  the  bottom,  while  the  flour  will  float  on 
the  liquid. 

4379.  How  to  Know  Good  Flour. 
"When  flour  is  genuine  or  of  the  best  kind,  it 
holds  together  in  a  mass  when  squeezed  by  the 
hand,  and  shows  the  impressions  of  the  fin- 
gers, and  even  of  the  marks  of  the  skin,  much 
longer  than  when  it  is  bad  or  adulterated; 
and  the  dough  made  with  it  is  very  gluey, 


4:08 


TESTS    OR    REAGENTS. 


ductile,  and  elastic,  easy  to  be  kneaded ;  and 
may  be  flattened  and  drawn  in  every  direc- 
tion without  breaking. 

4380.  To    Detect    Adulterations    in 
Sugar.     Sugar  is  largely  adulterated.     Pure 
cane  and  beet  sugars  may  be  known  by  their 
solutions  bending  the  luminous  rays  in  cir- 
cumpolarization  to  the  right,  whereas  grape 
and  fecula  sugars  bend  it  to  the  left.     Pure 
cane  sugar  boiled  in  a  solution  of  caustic  po- 
tassa  remains  colorless,  but  if  starch  sugar  is 
present  the  liquid  turns  brown.      A  filtered 
solution  of  33  grains  cane  or  beet  sugar  in  1 
ounce  water,  mixed  with  3  grains  pure  caustic 
potassa,  and  then  agitated  with  li  grains  sul- 
phate of  copper  in  a  close  vessel,  remains 
clear,  even  after  the  lapse  of  several  days; 
but  if  starch  sugar  is  present,  a  red  precipi- 
tate is  formed  after  some  time,  and  if  present 
in  considerable  quantity,  the  copper  will  be 
•wholly  converted  into  oxide  within  24  hours; 
the  solution  first  turns  blue  or  green,  and  then 
entirely  loses  its  color.     Of  late  years  moist 
sugar  has  been  largely  adulterated  with  the 
sweet  waste  liquor  (solution  of  glycerine,)  of 
the  stearine  manufactories;    but  this  fraud 
may  be  detected  by  its  inferior  sweetness, 
and  by  its  moist  and  dirty  appearance. 

4381.  Test  for  Starch.     The  old  and 
familiar  test  for  starch  is  the  blue  color  which 
free  iodine  produces  when  brought  in  contact 
with  it ;  but  this  is  not  the  only  reagent  J>y 
means  of  which  we  can  detect  the  presence  of 
starch  in  combination  with    similar  bodies. 
Bromine  is    nearly  as  good  as  iodine,   and 
tannin  is  said,  in  some  instances,  to  be  better. 
A  solution  of  50  grains  tannin  in  \  pint  dis- 
tilled water  will  answer  for  making  the  test. 
A  drop  of  this  tannin  solution  will  cause  a 
precipitate  in  extremely  dilute  solutions  of 
starch;     the     precipitate     dissolves     when 
warmed  and    reappears  when    the    solution 
cools ;  and  where  the  starch  paste  is  old,  the 
reaction  is  said   to  be   more  sensitive    than 
that  of  iodine. 

4382.  To  Test  Arrow-Boot.     Genuine 
arrow-root  is  odorless  and  tasteless,  and  pro- 
duces a  sort  of  crackling  noise  when  pressed 
or  rubbed,  and  emits  no  peculiar  odor  when 
mixed  with  muriatic  acid.     Stirred  up  in  a 
mortar  with  double  its  weight  of  a  mixture  of 
equal  parts  of  aqua-fortis  -and  water,  it  does 
not  become  gelatinous  and  adhesive  in  less 
than  15  minutes. 

4383.  To  Detect  Arsenic  in  Colored 
Paper.     Take  a  fragment  of  the  paper  and 
put  it  into  a  solution  of  ammonia.     If  arsenic 
be  present  the  liquid  will  assume  a  bluish 
color.    In  case  a  further  test  is  required,  pour 
a  little  of  the  ammoniacal  solution  on  crystals 
of  nitrate  of  silver,  and  arsenic,  if  present, 
will  show  itself  by  leaving  a  yellow  deposit 
on  the  crystals.   As  arsenic  is  used  in  coloring 
all  qualities  of  paper,  from  the  cheapest  to 
the  costliest,  a  knowledge  of  this  test  will  be 
of  service.  v 

4384.  To  Detect  Gum  Arabic  in  Gum 
Tragacanth.     Make  the  gum  into  a  clear 
mucilage,  and  filter  carefully ;  pour  strong  al- 
cohol upon  it,  and  if  it  retains  its  solubility 
and  transparency,  no  gum  arabic  is  present, 
but  if  it  becomes  opaque,  or  deposits  a  pow- 
der at  the  bottom,  it  contains  gum  arabic  or 
some  similar  substance. 


4385.  To  Test  Slates.     The  test  of  a 
superior  slate  is  its  ability  to  remain  unbro- 
ken, after  being  made  red  hot  in  a  furnace 
and  suddenly  immersed  in  cold  water  while 
at  that  heat. 

4386.  To  Test  Silver  or  Gold.     For 
testing  gold  or  silver,  slightly  wet  the  metal 
and  rub  gently  with  lunar  caustic.    If  gen- 
uine gold  or  silver  the  mark  will  be  faint ;  but 
if  an  inferior  metal  it  will  be  quite  black. 

4387.  To  Test  Mushrooms,     The  fol- 
lowing are  said  to  be  tests  of  the  wholesome- 
ness  of  mushrooms :  Sprinkle  a  little  salt  on 
the  spongy  part  or  gills  of  the  sample  to  be 
tried :  if  they  turn  yellow,  they  are  poison- 
ous ;  if  black,  they  are  wholesome. 

False  mushrooms  have  a  warty  cap,  or  else 
fragments  of  membrane  adhering  to  the  upper 
surface ;  are  heavy,  and  emerge  from  a  vulva 
or  bag ;  they  grow  in  tufts  or  clusters  in 
wqpds,  on  the  stumps  of  trees,  &c. ;  whereas 
the  true  mushrooms  grow  in  pastures. 

False  mushrooms  have  an  astringent, 
styptic,  and  disagreeable  taste;  when  cut 
they  turn  blue ;  they  are  moist  on  the  surface, 
and  are  generally  of  a  rose  or  orange  color. 

The  gills  of  the  true  mushroom  are  of  a 
pinky  red,  changing  to  a  liver  color ;  the  flesh 
is  white ;  the  stem  is  white,  solid,  and  cylin- 
drical. 

Introduce  a  silver  spoon,  or  an  onion,  into 
a  vessel  in  which  mushrooms  are  seething ;  if, 
on  taking  either  of  them  out,  they  assume  a 
dark,  discolored  appearance,  the  circumstance 
denotes  the  presence  of  poison  existing  among 
them;  if,  on  the  other  hand,  the  metal  or 
onion,  on  being  withdrawn  from  the  liquor, 
wears  its  natural  appearance,  the  fruit  may 
be  regarded  as  genuine,  and  of  the  right 
sort. 

Eub  the  upper  skin  with  a  gold  ring  or  any 
piece  of  gold  :  the  part  rubbed  will  turn  yel- 
low if  it  is  a  poisonous  fungus. 

4388.  To    Test    the   Hardness    of 
Water.     Hard  water  contains  more  or  less 
carbonate  of  lime ;  the  presence  of  this  sub- 
stance in  waters  is  tested  thus  :  Soap,  or  a  so- 
lution of  soap  in  proof  spirit,  mixes  easily  and 
perfectly  withjn<re  water,  but  is  curdled  and 
precipitated  in  water  containing  carbonates, 
chlorides,  or  sulphates.     The  degree  of  hard- 
ness of  water  depends  on  the  amount  of  car- 
bonate of  lime  held  in  it  in  solution,  and  is 
ascertained  as  follows :    Dissolve  1  drachm 
finest  white  soap  in  1  pint  proof  spirit ;  so  ad- 
just the  strength  (if  not  already  so)  that  ex- 
actly 32  measures  are  required  to  be  added  to 
100  measures  of  the    standard    solution   of 
chloride   of  calcium  (see  No.  4786),  before  a 
lather  can  be  produced.    Every  measure  of 
this  test  solution  of  soap  and  alcohol,  which  is 
required  to  produce  the  same  effect  on  100 
measures  of  a  sample  of  hard  water,  represents 
^  grain  of  carbonate  of  lime  or  -J°  of  hardness ; 
2  measures  equal  1°  of  hardness  or  1  grain  of 
carbonate  per  gallon,  &c. 

4389.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Borax. 
Its  strength  is  best  ascertained  by  the  quanti- 
ty of  sulphuric  acid  required  to  neutralize  a 
given  weight  of   borax.    (See  Alkalimetry.) 
The  impurities  in  borax  are  common  salt  and 
alum,  which  are  mixed  with  it  to  lower  the 
value. 

Common  salt  may  be  detected  by  a  solution 


TESTS    OR    REAGENTS. 


409 


of  the  borax  in  hot  water  yielding  with  nitrate 
of  silver  a  curdy  white  precipitate  which  is 
soluble  in  ammonia;  this  must  be  distin- 
guished from  the  white  pulverulent  precipitate 
of  borate  of  silver  which  will  be  thrown  down 
from  pure  borax. 

The  presence  of  alum  is  determined  by 
addition  of  ammonia  water  to  a  solution  of 
the  borax  giving  a  bulky  white  precipitate. 

4390.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Musk. 
Musk  is  often  largely  adulterated  with  dried 
blood,  the  presence  of  which  may  be  detected 
by  the  inferiority  of  the  .odor;  by  an  assay 
for  the  iron  contained  in  the  blood ;  or  by 
microscopic    examination.       The    ashes    left 
after  burning  pure  musk  are  neither  red  nor 
yellow,  but  grey,  and  should  not  exceed  6  per 
cent,  of  the  amount  burned. 

4391.  To  Test  the  Purity  of  Amber- 
gris.    From  the  high  price  of  the  genuine 
ambergris,  it  is  very  frequently  adulterated. 
When  quite  pure  and  of  the  best  quality  it  is 
nearly  wholly  soluble    in  hot    alcohol    and 
ether,  and  yields  about  85  per  cent,  of  the 
odorous    principle    (ambrehie).      It   is    also 
easily  punctured  with  a  heated  needle,  and  on 
withdrawing  it  not  only  should  the  odor  be 
immediately  evolved,  but  the  needle  should 
come  out  clean,  without  anything  adhering 
to  it. 

4392.  To    Test   Diamonds.     If  you 
have  a  doubtful  stone,  put  it  into  a  leaden  or 
platinum  cup,  with  some  powdered  fluor-spar 
and  a  little  oil  of  vitriol;   warm  the  vessel 
over  some  lighted  charcoal,  in  a  fireplace,  or 
wherever  there  is  a  strong  draught  to  carry 
away  the  noxious  vapors  that  will  be  copi- 
ously   evolved.      "WTien    these    vapors  have 
ceased  rising  let  the  whole  cool,  and  then  stir 
the  mixture  with  a  glass  rod  to  fish  out  the 
diamond.     If  you  find  it  intact  it  is  a  genuine 
stone ;  but  if  it  is  false  it  will  be  corroded  by 
the  hydrofluoric  acid  that  has  been  generated 
around  it.    A  small  paste  diamond  would  dis- 
appear altogether  under  the  treatment.     This 
test  is  given  by  Massimo  Levi,  an  Italian 
chemist. 

4393.  Test  for  the  Presence  of  Blood. 
Gunning  has  discovered  in  acetate  of  zinc  a 
reagent  that  precipitates  the  slightest  traces 
of  the  coloring  matter  of  blood  from  solutions, 
even  where  the  liquids  are  so  dilute  as  to  be 
colorless.     Blood  washed  from  the  hands  in  a 
pail  of  water  can  readily  be  detected  in  this 
way.       The    flocculent    precipitate    thrown 
down  by  acetate  of  zinc  must  be  washed  by 
decautation,  and  finally  collected  on  a  watch- 
glass,  and  allowed  to  dry,  when  the  micro- 
scope will  readily  reveal  crystals  if  any  blood 
be  present.     (Sec  No.  6415.) 

4394.  Test  for  the  Presence  of  a  Free 
Acid.     Dissolve  chloride  of  silver  in  just  suf- 
ficient ammonia  to  make  a  clear  solution.     If 
a  little  of  the  test  be  added  to  ordinary  sprirfg 
water,  the  carbonic  acid  present  in  the  latter 
will  neutralize  the  ammonia  and  precipitate 
the   chloride.     The  above  forms  a  good  lec- 
ture experiment,  the  test  being  a  very  delicate 
one. 

4395.  Permanganate  of  Potassa  as  a 
Test  for   Organic  Matter.     As  a  test  for 
organic  matter  in  air  and  water,  its  accuracy 
has  been  called  in  question,  on  the  ground 
that  it  does  not  attack  all  kinds  of  organic 


matter  with  equal  facility — some,  as  starch, 
resisting  its  action  for  a  long  time.  It  must 
be  admitted,  however,  that  it  is,  at  present, 
the  only  practical  test  that  we  have,  and  cer- 
tainly shows  very  rapidly  and  clearly  the 
presence  of  hurtful  organic  matter  in  water 
or  in  air.  It  can  be  applied  by  any  one,  it 
being  only  necessary  to  use  a  weak  solution ; 
the  disappearance  of  the  color  indicates  the 
presence  of  organic  matter.  In  time  of  epi- 
demics, such  as  cholera  or  dysentery,  this 
test  might  be  of  much  value  in  singling  out 
the  contaminated  from  the  pure  water.  It  is, 
perhaps,  well  also  to  recall  the  fact  that  this 
test  forms  the  readiest  means  of  purifying 
foul  water. 

4396.  Trommer's  Test  for  the  Pres- 
ence of  Sugar  in  Urine.     Put  some  of  the 
suspected  urine  into  a  large  test-tube,  and 
add  a  few  drops  of  solution  of  sulphate  of 
copper,  then  sufficient  solution  of  potash  to 
render  it  strongly  alkaline.    If  sugar  be  pres- 
ent, the  precipitated  oxide  redissolves  into  a 
blue  liquid,  and  on  boiling  red  oxide  of  copper 
is  precipitated.    "White  merino  that  has  been 
wet  with  a  solution  of  bichloride  of  tin  is  said 
to  form  a  ready  test  for  sugar  in  urine,  &c. 
A  portion  wet  with  the  suspected  liquor,  and 
exposed  to  260°  to  300°  of  heat,   becomes 
blackened  if  sugar  is  present. 

4397.  Quantitative  Test  for  Sugar  in 
TJrine.     Dissolve  400  grains  pure  crystallized 
sulphate  of  copper  in  1600  grains  of  distilled 
water;   add  this  gradually  to  a  solution  of 
1600  grains  neutral  tartrate  of  potash  in  a 
little  water  mixed  with  6000  or  7000  grains 
solution  of  caustic  soda  of  1.12  specific  grav- 
ity.    Add  water  to  make  up  the  whole  11,544 
grain  measures.      1000   grain  measures    are 
equivalent  to  5  grains  of  grape  sugar. 

4398.  Pettenkofer's  Test  for  Bile  in 
Urine,  &c.     Put  a  small  quantity  of  the  sus- 
pected liquid  into  a  test-tube,  and  add  to  it, 
drop  by  drop,  strong  sulphuric  acid  till  it  be- 
comes warm,   taking  care  not  to  raise  the 
temperature  above    122°  Pahr.      Then    add 
from  2  to  5  drops  of  syrup,  made  with  5  parts 
sugar  to  4  of  water,  and  shake  the  mixture. 
If  the  liquid  contain  bile,  a  violet  coloration 
is  observed.    Acetic  acid,  and  those  substan- 
ces which  are  converted  into  sugar  by  sul- 
phuric acid,  may  be  substituted  for  sugar. 

4399.  To  Detect  Sulphur  in  Coal-Gas. 
The  presence  of  sulphur  in  coal-gas  can  be 
proved    in    the    following    simple    manner  : 
Let  a  platinum  basin  be  filled  with   a  pint 
of  water,  and  the  basin  be  heated  over  a 
spirit  lamp  until  all  the  liquid  has  evaporated ; 
the  basin  will  be  found  to  be  coated  on  the 
outside,  where  it  has  been  struck  by  the  flame, 
with  a  dirty,  greasy  looking  substance,  which, 
on  being  washed  off  with  pure  distilled  water, 
and  tested,  proves  to  be  sulphuric  acid.    The 
glass  chimneys  used  with  Argand  gas-burners 
soon  become  coated  over  internally  with  a 
white  substance,  which,  on  being  washed  off 
with  distilled  water,  will  be  found  to  be,  on 
testing,    sulphate   of   ammonia.      The    glass 
panes  of  a  room  wherein  gas  is  burned  for 
a  few  evenings  consecutively,  will,  when  rub- 
bed with  the  fingers  of  a  clean  hand,  impart 
to  it  a  substance  which,  on  the  hand  being 
rinsed  in  distilled  water,  will  yield  a  precipi 
tate  of  sulphate,  of  baryta  with  chloride  o/. 


4rlO 


TEST  PAPERS. 


barium,  and  a  brick-red  precipitate  with  po- 
tassio-iodide  of  mercury. 

4400.  Test  for  Benzole.     For    distin- 
guishing genuine  benzole,  or  that  made  of 
coal  tar,  from  that  prepared  from  petroleum. 
Brandberg  recommends  us  to  place  a  small 
piece  of  pitch  in  a  testing  tube,  and  pour 
over  it  some  of  the  substance  to  be  examined. 
The   genuine  will  immediately  dissolve  the 
pitch  to  a  tar-like  mass,  while  that  derived 
from  petroleum  will  scarcely  be  colored.     (See 
Nos.  4320  and  4321.) 

4401.  To  Detect  Cotton   in  Linen. 
Unravel  a  piece  of  the  fabric,  both  warp  and 
weft,  and  plunge  it  into  a  solution  of  aniline 
and  fuchsine.      This  will  dye  the  whole  red. 
Take  it  out,  wash  it,  and  while  moist  dip  into 
ammonia ;  the  cotton  threads  will  lose  their 
color,  while  the  linen  will  remain  red.  (See 
No  296,  <fc.) 

4402.  Hahnemann's  Test  for  Lead  in 
Wine.     Take  1  ounce  quick-lime,  1$  ounces 
flowers  of  sulphur;  heat  in  a  covered  crucible 
for  5  or  6  minutes;  take  2  drachms  of  this 
compound  Cwhich  is  sulphuret  of  lime),    2 
drachms    tartaric    acid;    powder,  mix,   and 
Bhake  in  a  stoppered  bottle  with  a  pint  of 
water ;  let  it  settle,  pour  off  the  clear  liquid, 
and  add  li  ounces  tartaric  acid.    The  above 
test  will  throw  down  the  least  quantity   of 
lead  from  wines,  as  a  very  sensible  black  pre- 
cipitate. 

4403.  Paris  Test  for  Lead  in  Wine. 
Expose  equal  parts  of  sulphur  and  powdered 
oyster  shells  to  a  white  heat  for  15  minutes, 
and,  when  cold,  add  an  equal  quantity  of 
cream  of  tartar ;   these  are  to  be  put  into  a 
strong  bottle,  with  common  water,  to  boil  for 
an  hour,  and  the  solution  is  afterwards  to  be 
decanted  into  ounce  phials,  adding  20  drops 
muriatic  acid  to  each.     Both  the  above  tests 
will  throw  down  the  least  quantity  of  lead  from 
wines,  as  a  very  senible  black  precipitate. 
As  iron  might  be  accidentally  contained  in 
the  wine,  the  muriatic  acid  is  added,  to  pre- 
vent the  precipitation  of  that  metal.     This 
acts  in  the  same  manner  as  Hahnemann's  test. 
(See  No.  4402.) 

4404.  To     Distinguish    Artificially 
Colored  Wines.      As  the  real  coloring  mat- 
ter of  wine  is  of  difficult  solubility  in  water 
free  from  tartaric  acid,   Blume  proposes  to 
make  this  fact  of  practical  use  in  testing  the 
purity  of  wine.    A  crumb  of  bread  saturated 
in  the  supposed  wine  is  placed  in  a  plate  of 
water ;  if  artificially  colored,  the  water  soon 
partakes  of  the  color;  but  if  natural,  a  slight 
opalescence  only  will  be  perceptible  after  a 
quarter  of  an  hour. 

4405.  To  Detect  Logwood  in  Wine. 
M.  Lapeyrnere,  having  observed  that  b.83rna- 
tine,  the  coloring  principle  of  logwood,  gives 
a  sky-blue  color  in  the  presence  of  salts  of 
copper,  proposes  the  following  test  for  log- 
wood in  wines:     Paper  is  saturated  with   a 
strong  solution  of  neutral  acetate  of  copper, 
and  dried.     A  strip  of  this  is  dipped  into  the 
suspected  liquor,  and,  after  removal,  the  ad- 
hering drops  are  made  to  move  to  and  fro 
over  the  paper,  which  is  finally  to  bo  care- 
fully dried.  If  the  wine  contain  logwood,  the 
paper  will  assume   a  violet-blue  color;   but 
if  the  wine  possess  its  natural  coloring  mat- 
ter the  paper  will  have  a  grey  tint. 


4406.  To  Detect  Artificial  Coloring 
in  Wine.     TJse,  as  test  liquid,  a  solution  of 
potash  and  a  solution  of  liquid  ammonia  and 
potash. 

If  the  wine  is  colored  by  the  coloring 
matter  of  the  grape,  potash  changes  the  red 
color  to  a  bottle  green  or  brownish-green ;  am- 
monia changes  the  color  to  brownish-green  or 
greenish-brown;  a  solution  of  alum  to  which 
some  potash  has  been  added  gives  a  dirty 
grey  precipitate. 

If  the  wine  is  artificially  colored,  potash 
gives  the  following  colored  precipitates : 
Dwarf  elder,  mulberry,  or  beet  root  give  a 
violet  precipitate ;  pokeweed  berries,  a  yellow; 
Indian  wood,  a  violet  red;  pernambuco,  a 
red ;  litmus,  a  violet  blue  ;  orchil  or  cudbear, 
a  dirty  lees  color. 

Or :  Pour  into  the  wine  to  be  tested  a  so- 
lution of  alum,  and  precipitate  the  alumina  it 
contains,  by  adding  potash,  and  the  precipi- 
tates will  have  the  same  characteristic  colors 
as  above. 

4407.  Test  for  Bum.     Dr.  Wiederbold 
proposes  the  following  method  for  distinguish- 
ing between    true  rum    and  the    factitious 
liquid  sold  under  this  name :     Mix  a  little  of 
the  rum  to  bo  tested  with  about  a  third  of  its 
bulk  of  sulphuric  acid,  and  allow  the  mixture 
to  stand.    If  the  rum  is  genuine  its  peculiar 
odor  remains  after  the  liquid  has  cooled,  and 
even  after  24  hours'  contact  may  still  be  dis- 
tinguished.   If,  on  the  contrary,  the  rum  is 
not    genuine,  contact    with    sulphuric    acid 
promptly  and  entirely  deprives  it  of  all  its 
aroma. 


Test  Papers.  These  consist  of 
paper  which  has  been  wetted  thorough- 
ly and  uniformly  with  a  solution  of  some  ap- 
propriate substance,  dried  and  cut  into  conve- 
nient strips,  and  is  used  to  test,  by  its  change 
of  color,  the  presence  of  some  other  substance 
known  to  produce  that  change.  This  is 
effected  by  dipping  a  strip  of  the  proper 
test  paper  into,  or  wetting  it  with,  the  liquor 
to  be  tested,  and  the  effect  noted. 

4409.  Brazil-wood  Test  Paper.    Made 
by  preparing  the  paper  with  a  decoction  of 
Brazil-wood.    Alkalies  turn  it  purple  or  violet ; 
strong  acids,  red. 

4410.  Buckthorn  Test  Paper.     From 
a  decoction  of  the   berries;   is  reddened  by 
acids. 

441 1 .  Cherry-juice  Test  Paper.    From 
the  juice  of  cherries  ;  has  the  r.anio  properties 
as  buckthorn  paper. 

4412.  Dahlia  Test  Paper.     Made  from 
an  infusion  of  the  petals  of  the  violet  dahlia 
(georgina  purpurea);  alkalies  turn  it  green; 
acids,   red ;    strong  caustic   alkalies    turn   it 
yellow.     This  is  a  very  delicate  test  paper. 
The  juice  of  elderberries  will  make  a  similar 
test  paper. 

4413.  Indigo  Test  Paper.      From  a 
solution  of  indigo  ;  loses  its  color  in  contact 
with  chlorine. 

4414.  Iodide  of  Potassium  Test 
Paper.  From  a  solutian  of  it  in  distilled 
water ;  turned  blue  by  an  acidulated  solution 
of  starch. 


FACTITIOUS   MINERAL    WATERS. 


4,11 


4415.  Starch  and  Iodine  Test  Paper. 
Prepared  by  mixing  starch  paste  with  iodide 
of  potassium  ;  turned  blue  by  chlorine,  ozone, 
and  the  mineral  acids,  and  by  the  air  contain- 
ing them. 

4416.  Lead  Test  Paper.     From  a  solu- 
tion of  either  acetate  or  diacetate  of  lead; 
used  as  a  test  for  sulphuretted  hydrogen  and 
hydrosulphuret  of  ammonia,  which  turn  it 
black. 

4417.  Blue  Litmus  Test  Paper.    Trit- 
urate  1   ounce  litmus  in   a  wedgwood-ware 
mortar  with  3  or  4  fluid  ounces  boiling  water ; 
put  the  mixture  into  a  flask,  and  add  more 
boiling  water  until  the  liquid  measures  fully 
•J-  pint ;  agitate  it  frequently  until  cold,  then 
filter  it ;  divide  the  filtered  fluid  into  2  equal 
portions,  stir  one  portion  with  a  glass  rod 
dipped  into  very  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  repeat- 
ing this  until  the  liquid  begins  to  be  very 
slightly  tinged  red,  then  add  the  other  portion 
and  mix  them  thoroughly.     Prepare  the  paper 
with  this  infusion.     Acids  turn  it  red ;  alka- 
lies, green.     The  neutral  salts  of  most  of  the 
heavy  metallic  oxides  redden  this  as  well  as 
the  other  blue  test  papers  that  are  affected  by 
acids. 

4418.  Red  Litmus  Paper.    Treat  the 
whole  of  a  blue  infusion,  made  as  above,  with 
the  rod  dipped  in  dilute  sulphuric  acid  until 
it   turns    distinctly  red.    Alkalies,    alkaline 
earths,  and  their  sulphurets,  restore  its  blue 
color;    alkaline  carbonates  and  the  soluble 
borates  produce  the  same  effect.  Red  litmus 
paper  may  also  be  made  by  holding  a  strip 
of  the  blue  litmus  paper  over  a  jar  into  which 
2  or  3  drops  of  muriatic  (hydrochloric)  acid 
have  been  thrown. 

4419.  Mallow  Test  Paper.     From  an 
infusion  of  the  purple  flowers  of  tho  common 
mallow. 

4420.  Manganese  Test  Paper.    From 
a  solution  of  sulphate  of  manganese ;  turns 
black  by  contact  with  ozone. 

4421.  Rhubarb  Test  Paper.     From  a 
strong  infusion  of  the  powdered  root ;  alkalies 
turn  it  brown,  but  boracic  acid  and  its  salts 
do  not  affect  it. 

4422.  Rose  Test  Paper.     Made  with  a 
strong  infusion  of  the  petals  of  the  red  rose ; 
alkalies  turn  it  a  bright  green. 

4423.  Starch   Test  Paper.      From  a 
cold  decoction  of  starch ;  free  iodine  turns  it 
blue. 

4424.  Sulphate  of  Iron  Test  Paper. 
Made  with  a  solution  of  tho  protosulphato ; 
as  a  test  for  hydrocyanic  acid  and  the  soluble 
cyanides. 

4425.  Turmeric   Test   Paper.      Pre- 
pared with  a  decoction  of  2  ounces  turmeric 
to  1  pint  water ;  is  turned  brown  by  alkalies, 
and  by  boracic  acid  and  the  soluble  borates. 

4426.  Cabbage  Test  Paper.    Make  a 
strong  infusion  of  red  cabbage  leaves,  strain 
it,  and  evaporate  it  by  a  gentle  heat  till  con- 
siderably reduced.     Then  dip  tho  paper  in  it 
and  dry  it  in  tho  air.     (This  paper  is  of  a 
greyish  color ;  alkalies  change  it  to  green, 
acids  to  red.     It  is  a  very  delicate  test;  if 
rendered  slightly  green  by  an  alkali,  carbonic 
acid  will  restore  the  color.) 

4427.  Alkanet  Test  Paper.     The  red 
principle  of  the  alkanet  root  (Anchusa  tinc- 
toria,  L.)  is,  as  is  well  known,  a  most  sensi- 


tive reagent  for  alkalies  and  acids ;  it  is  used 
for  the  preparation  of  test  paper,  and  is  pre- 
pared like  litmus  paper,  by  saturating  un- 
sized paper  with  a  solution  of  the  alkanet  red. 
This  is  obtained  by  extracting  dry  alkanet 
root  with  ether ;  the  filtered  liquid  is  ready 
for  use.  The  blue  paper  may  be  obtained 
from  the  red  one  by  dipping  it  in  an  aqueous 
solution  of  carbonate  of  soda  of  specific  grav- 
ity 1.5.  A  paper,  answering  for  both  alka- 
line and  acid  test,  may  bo  prepared  by 
dividing  tho  ethereal  solution  of  alkanet  red 
into  two  equal  parts ;  to  one  is  added,  drop 
by  drop,  a  watery  solution  of  carbonate  of 
soda,  until  tho  red  just  has  changed  to  a  dis- 
tinct blue  hue ;  then  both  liquids  are  mixed 
and  used  for  the  preparation  of  the  paper. 
This,  when  dried,  has  to  be  kept  in  tightly 
closed  bottles. 

4428.  Test  Paper  from  Hollyhock 
Flowers.     Some  years  ago  Prof.  Aiken,  of 
the  University  of  Maryland,  proposed  paper 
stained  with  an  infusion  of  the  petals,  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  litmus  paper.     His  althrea  paper  is 
purplish-blue  when  dry;  acids  impart  a  car- 
mine hue,  which  is  turned  to  bluish-green  by 
alkalies,  the  neutral  tint  being  purplish-blue ;  it 
is  superior  in  intensity  of  reaction  to  turmeric, 
and  quite  equal  to  litmus,  and  is  not  affected 
by  light,  as  is  the  case  with  the  latter.    Tho 
alkaline  reaction  is  produced  in  natural  or 
atmospheric  waters ;  and  the  presence  of  ni- 
trites, which  change  the  red  paper  to  purple, 
is  indicated  in  greater  dilution  than  with  io- 
dide starch. 

4429.  Ozonometer.     This    name    has 
been  given  to  paper  prepared  with  a  mixed 
solution  of  starch  and  iodide  of  potassium. 
It  is  white,  but  is  turned  blue  by  ozonized  air 
when  exposed  to  it  in  a  slightly  moistened 
state.      This  test  is  sufficiently  delicate  to 
detect  the   presence  of  ozone  in  the  atmo- 
sphere. 


"ppactitious  Mineral  Wa- 

-*-  terS.  These  are  the  imitations  of 
different  celebrated  springs,  whose  waters 
have  more  or  less  medicinal  properties ;  they 
are  prepared  by  adding  to  pure  water  the  in- 
gredients which  the  original  spring  water  is 
found,  by  chemical  analysis,  to  contain.  Un- 
der this  class  are  also  included  tho  ordinary 
aerated  or  carbonated  waters,  which  are  known 
as  soda  waters.  The  majority,  whether  plain 
or  medical,  are  charged  with  carbonic  acid  gas 
by  the  powerful  apparatus  employed  by  man- 
ufacturers of  soda  waters  (see  No.  718) ;  the 
gas  being  evolved  by  the  action  of  weak  sul- 

ghuric  acid  on  marble  chalk,  whiting,  &c. 
ome  few  obtain  their  carbonic  acid  gas  by 
the  action  of  an  acid  and  an  alkali  introduced 
into  tho  bottle,  and  instantly  corked.  Tho 
quantity  of  gas  introduced  is  usually  abouf,  5 
times  tho  volume  of  the  liquid.  In  making 
chalybeate  and  sulphuretted  water,  the  water 
should  be  previously  boiled,  to  expel  all  air 
from  it. 

4431.  Simple  Aerated  Water.  Car- 
bonic acid  gas  water.  Water  charged  with 
five  or  more  volumes  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  by 
means  of  a  suitable  apparatus.  (See  No.  718.) 


FACTITIOUS   MINERAL    WATERS. 


4432.  Alkaline     Aerated    Waters. 

Aerated  soda  and  potash  waters  should  be 
made  by  dissolving  1  drachm  of  the  carbon- 
ated alkali  in  each  pint  of  water,  and  charging 
it  strongly  with  carbonic  acid  gas.  The  soda 
water  usually  offered  for  sale  contains  little 
or  no  soda. 

4433.  Aerated    Magnesia    "Water. 
This  is  a  solution  of  magnesia  of  various 
strengths,  charged  with  carbonic  acid  gas  in 
the  same  manner  as  other  aerated  waters. 

4434.  Murray's  Fluid  Magnesia  may 
be  thus  made:    To  a  boiling  solution  of  16 
ounces  sulphate  of  magnesia  in  6  pints  water, 
add  a  solution  of  19  ounces  crystallized  car- 
bonate of  soda  in  the  same  quantity  of  water; 
boil  the  mixture  till  gas  ceases  to  escape,  stir- 
ring constantly;  then  set  it  aside  to  settle; 
pour  off  the  liquid,  and  wash  the  precipitate 
on  a  cotton  or  linen  cloth,  with  warm  water, 
till  the  latter  passes  tasteless.    Mix  the  pre- 
cipitate, without  drying  it,  with  a  gallon  of 
water,  and  force  carbonic  acid  gas  into  it 
under  strong  pressure,  till  a  complete  solution 
is  effected.     The  Eau  Magnesienne  of  the 
French  Codex  is  about  a  third  of  this  strength; 
and  some  fluid  magnesias  prepared  in  this 
country  are  not  much  stronger.     Dinneford's 
preparation  is  similar  to  the  above. 

4435.  Carbonated  Lime- Water — Car- 
rara Water.     Lime-water  (prepared   from 
lime  made  by  calcining  Carrara  marble)  is 
supersaturated,  by  strong  pressure,  with  car- 
bonic acid,  so  that  the  carbonate  of  lime  at  _ 

first  thrown  down  is  redissolved.    It  contains  ounces 
8  grains  carbonate  of  lime  in  10  fluid  ounces 
water. 

4436.  Aerated  Lithia  Water.    This 
may  be  conveniently  made  from  the  fresh  pre- 
cipitated carbonate,  dissolved  in  carbonated 
water,   as  directed  for  fluid  magnesia.    Its 
antacid  and  antilithic  properties   are    found 
useful. 

4437.  Baden  Water.     Muriate  of  mag- 
nesia, 2  grains ;  muriate  of  lime,  40  grains ; 
muriate  of  iron,  ±  grain  (or  3  minims  of  the 
tincture);  muriate  of  soda,   30  grains;   sul- 
phate of  soda,  10  grains;  carbonate  of  soda, 
1  grain ;  water,  1  pint ;  carbonic  acid  gas,  5 
volumes. 

4438.  Carlsbad   Water.     Dissolve   8 
grains  of  muriate  of  lime,  1  drop  of  tincture 
of  sesquichloride  of  iron,  50  grains  of  sulphate 
of  soda,  60   grains  of  carbonate  of  soda,   8 
grains  of  muriate  of  soda,  in  one  pound  of 
water. 

4439.  Carlsbad   Water.     Muriate   of 
lime,  8  grains ;  tincture  of  muriate  of  iron,  1 
drop ;  sulphate  of  soda,  50  grains ;  carbonate 
of  soda,  60  grains;  muriate  of  soda,  8  grains; 
carbonated  water,  1  pint. 

4440.  Congress    Water.     Take  com- 
mon salt,  7£  ounces;   hydrate  of  soda,  23 
grains;  bicarbonate  of  soda,  20  grains;  and 
calcined  magnesia,  1  ounce.    Add  the  above 
ingredients  to  10  gallons  of  water,  and  charge 
with  gas. 

4441.  Eger  Water.     Carbonate  of  soda, 
5  grains ;  sulphate  of  soda,  4  scruples ;  muri- 
ate of  soda,  10  grains ;  sulphate  of  magnesia, 
3  grains;  muriate  of  lime,  5  grains;  carbonated 
water,  1  pint. 

Or  it  may  be  made  without  apparatus  thus: 
Bicarbonate  of  soda,  30  grains;  muriate  of 


soda,  8  grains ;  sulphate  of  magnesia,  3  grains; 
water,  1  pint ;  dissolve  and  add  1  scruple  dry 
bisulphate  of  soda,  and  close  the  bottle  imme- 
diately. 

4442.  Ems  Water.     Carbonate  of  soda, 
2  scruples ;  sulphate  of  potash,  1  grain ;  sul- 
phate of  magnesia,  5  grains;  muriate  of  soda, 
10  grains ;  muriate  of  lime,  3  grains ;  carbon- 
ated water,  1  pint. 

4443.  Kissingen  Water.    Mix  together 
bicarbonate  of  soda,  1  drachm;  carbonate  of 
lime,   8   scruples;   precipitated  carbonate   of 
iron,   2   scruples;    common   salt,   8    ounces; 
muriate   of  ammonia,  4   grains;   sulphate  of 
soda,   8  scruples;    sulphate  of  magnesia,  2 
ounces ;  phosphate  of  soda,  13  grains ;  phos- 
phate of  lime,  8  scruples.     Add  water,  £  gal- 
lon.    Let  it  stand  half  a  day,  filter,  add  car- 
bonate of  magnesia,  10  scruples,  and  10  gallons 
water.     Lastly,  charge  with  gas  by  means  of 
the  usual  apparatus.     (See  No.  718.) 

4411.  Marienbad  Water.  Carbonate 
of  soda,  2  scruples;  sulphate  of  soda,  96  grains; 
sulphate  of  magnesia,  8  grains;  muriate  of 
soda,  15  grains ;  muriate  of  lime,  10  grains ; 
carbonated  water,  1  pint. 

Or,  bicarbonate  of  soda,  50  grams ;  sulphate 
of  soda,  1  drachm;  muriate  of  soda,  15  grains; 
sulphate  of  magnesia,  10  grains ;  dissolve  in 
1  pint  water,  add  25  grains  dry  bisulphate  of 
soda,  and  cork  immediately. 

4445.  Marienbad  Purging  Salts.  Bi- 
carbonate of  soda,  5  ounces;  dried  sulphate 
of  soda,  12  ounces ;  dry  muriate  of  soda,  1£ 
ounces ;  sulphate  of  magnesia,  dried,  2  oun- 
ces; dried  bisulphate  of  soda,  2£  ounces. 
Mix  the  salts,  previously  dried,  separately, 
and  keep  them  carefully  from  the  air. 

4446.  Pullna   Water.      Sulphate    of 
soda,   4  drachms;    sulphate  of  magnesia,  4 
drachms ;  muriate  of  lime,  15  grains ;  muriate 
of  magnesia  (dry),  1  scruple;  muriate  of  soda, 
1   scruple;   bicarbonate   of  soda,    10   grains; 
water  slightly  carbonated,    1   pint.     One '  of 
the  most  active  of  the  purgative  saline  wa- 
ters, and  deserving  of  wider  popularity. 

It  may  be  prepared  without  apparatus  aa 
follows :  Bicarbonate  of  soda,  50  grains ;  sul- 
phate of  magnesia,  4  drachms;  sulphate  of 
soda,  3  drachms ;  muriate  of  soda,  1  scruple ; 
dissolve  in  1  pint  of  water;  add,  lastly,  2 
scruples  bisulphate  of  soda,  and  close  the  bot- 
tle immediately. 

4447.  Salts  for  Making  Pullna  Wa- 
ter.    Dry  bicarbonate  of  soda,  1  ounce ;   sul- 
phate of  soda,  2  ounces;  sulphate  of  magnesia, ' 
1£  ounces;  muriate  of  soda,  2  drachms;  tar- 
taric  acid,  f  ounce  (or  rather,  bisulphate  of 
soda,  1  ounce).     All  the  ingredients  must  be 
previously  dried. 

4448.  Pyrmont  Water.     Carbonate  of 
lime,  12  grains;  crystallized  carbonate  of  soda, 
31  grains;   sulphate  of  soda  in  crystals,  7J 
grains ;  sulphate  of  lime,  14  grains ;  sulphate 
of  magnesia,  20  grains ;   sulphate  of  iron,  2 
grains ;  chloride  of  sodium,  2  grains ;  chloride 
of  magnesium,  4  grains;  chloride  of  mangan- 
ese, -Ja  grain ;  water,  2  pints ;  carbonic  acid, 
5  volumes.    Dissolve  the  sulphate  of  iron  in 
part  of  the  water ;  dissolve  the  other  soluble 
salts  in  the  remainder  of  the  water,  add  the 
insoluble  salts  to  the  solution,  and  charge  it 
with  the  carbonic  acid.    Mix  the  two  solutions 
in  a  bottle,  and  cork  it  immediately. 


FACTITIOUS   MINERAL   WATERS. 


4=13 


4449  Seidlitz  Water.  This  is  usually 
imitated  by  strongly  aerating  a  solution  of  2 
drachms  sulphate  of  magnesia  in  1  pint  of 
water.  It  is  also  made  with  4,  G,  and  8 
drachms  of  the  salts  to  1  pint  of  water,  ac- 
cording to  the  strength  required. 

4450.  Seidlitz  Powders.    The  common 
Seidlitz  powders  do  not  resemble  the  water. 
A  closer  imitation  would  be  made  by  using 
effloresced  sulphate  of  magnesia  instead  of 
the  potassio-tartrate  of  soda.    A  still  more 
exact  compound  will  be  the  following:  Efflor- 
esced sulphate  of  magnesia,  2  ounces ;  bicar- 
bonate of  soda,   |  ounce;   dry  bisulphate  of 
soda,  4-  ounce  ;  mix,  and  keep  in  a  close  bot- 
tle. 

4451.  Seidlitz  Powders.     Mix.  together 
thoroughly  1  troy  ounce  bicarbonate  of  soda, 
and  3  troy  ounces  Rochelle  salt,  both  in  fine 
powder,  and  divide  into  12  equal  parts.    Di- 
vide 420  grains  tartaric  acid  also  into  12  equal 
parts.     Put  up  the  parts,  severally,  of  the 
mixture  and  of  the  acid  in  separate  papers, 
each  kind  of  a  distinctive  color.     ( U.  S.  Ph.} 
The  alkaline  mixture  is  usually  put  up  in 
blue,  and  the  acid  in  white  papers. 

4452.  Seidschutz  Water.    Sulphate  of 
magnesia,  3  drachms;  muriate  of  lime,  nitrate 
of  lime,  bicarbonate  of  soda,  of  each  8  grains ; 
sulphate  of  potash,  5  grains ;  aerated  water,  1 
pint. 

4453.  Seltzer  or  Selters  Water.    The 
seltzer  water,  as  commonly  sold,  is  prepared 
as  follows :  Prepare  a  solution  of  fused  chlor- 
ide of  calcium,  1  part  in  9  of  water  (specific 
gravity  should  be  1.088  to  1.089) ;  a  solution 
of  calcined  carbonate  of  soda,  1  part  in  10  of 
water  (specific  gravity  1.105) ;  a  solution  of 
chloride  of  magnesium,  by  dissolving  calcined 
magnesia  at  the  rate  of  20  grains  in  dilute 
hydrochloric  acid  to  make  1  fluid  ounce  of 
saturation    (specific    gravity    1.08G);    lastly, 
a  solution  of  dry  sulphate  of  soda  in  10  parts 
water  (specific  gravity  1.092).     These  solu- 
tions are  mixed  with  water  in  the  following 
proportions  :  Solution  of  carbonate  of  soda, 
1000  grains ;  solution  of  chloride  of  calcium, 
200  grains ;    solution  of  chloride  of  magne- 
sium, 150  grains ;  solution  of  sulphate  of  soda, 
20  grains ;  added  to  250  to  300  ounces  (troy) 
of  water,  afterwards  to  be  charged  with  car- 
bonic acid. 

4454.  Seltzer  Water.     Muriate  of  lime 
and  muriate  of  magnesia,  of- each  4  grains; 
dissolve  these  in  a  small  quantity  of  water, 
and  add  it  to  a  similar  solution  of  8  graiuy 
bicarbonate  of  soda,  20  grains  muriate  of  soda, 
and  2  grains  phosphate  of  soda ;  mix,  and  add 
&  solution  of  J  of  a  grain  sulphate  of  iron; 
put  the  mixed  solution  into  a  20-ouuce  bottle, 
and  fill  up  with  aerated  water.     An  imitation 
of  seltzer  water  is  also  made  by  putting  into 
a  stone   seltzer  bottle,   filled  with  water,  2 
drachuas  bicarbonate  of  soda  and  2  drachms 
citric  acid  in  crystals,  corking  the  bottle  im- 
mediately. 

4455.  Vichy  Water.     Sulphate  of  po- 
tassa,  2  drachms ;  sulphate  of  soda,  4  scruples; 
phosphate  of  soda,  25  grains ;  common  salt,  6 
drachms ;  bicarbonate  of  soda,  5J  ounces ;  car- 
bonate  of  ammonia,    10   grains.    Mix.     Add 
water,  ^  gallon.     Let  it  stand  half  a  day; 
filter,  add  10  gallons  water,  and  charge  with 
gas. 


4456.  Vichy  Water.     Bicarbonate  of 
soda,  1  drachm ;  muriate  of  soda,  2  grains ; 
sulphate  of  soda,  8  grains ;  sulphate  of  mag- 
nesia, 3  grains ;  tincture  of  muriate  of  iron,  2 
drops;  aerated  water,   1  pint.    Dorvault  di- 
rects  75  grains  of  bicarbonate   of   soda,   4 
grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  £  grain  sulphate 
of  iron,  10  grains  sulphate  of  soda,  and  3 
grains  sulphate  of  magnesia,  to  a  pint    of 
water.      By  adding  45   grains  (or    less)   of 
citric  acid,  an  effervescing  water  is  obtained. 

4457.  Vichy  Water.     Soubeiran,  rely- 
ing on  the  analysis  of  Longchamps,  imitates 
Vichy  water  by  the  following  combination : 
Bicarbonate  of  soda,  135  grains;  chloride  of 
sodium,  2£  grains;    crystallized  chloride  of 
calcium,   12   grains;    sulphate  of  soda,   11^ 
grains ;  sulphate  of  magnesia,  3f  grains ;  tar- 
trate  of  iron  and  potash  •&•  grain ;  water,  2-jV 
pints;  carbonic  acid,  305  cubic  inches  (10£ 
pints).     Dissolve  the  salts  of  soda  and  iron  in 
part  of  the  water,  dissolve  and  add  the  sul- 
phate of  magnesia,  and  then  the  chloride  of 
calcium    in    the    remaining  water.      Charge 
now  with  the  carbonic  acid  gas  under  pres- 
sure. 

4458.  Vichy  Salts.      Bicarbonate  of 
soda,  li  ounces;  muriate  of  soda,  15  grains; 
effloresced  sulphate  of  soda,  1  drachm ;  efflo- 
resced sulphate  of  magnesia,  1  scruple ;  dry 
tartarized  sulphate  of  iron,  1  grain;  dry  tar- 
taric acid,  1  ounce  (or  dry  bisulphate  of  soda); 
mix  the  powders,  previously  dried,  and  keep 
them  in  a  close  bottle. 

4459.  Sea- Water.     Muriate  of  soda,  4 
ounces ;  sulphate  of  soda,  2  ounces ;  muriate 
of  lime,  i  ounce;    muriate  of  magnesia,  1 
ounce;  iodide  of  potassium,  4  grains;  bromide 
of  potassium,  2  grains;  water,  1  gallon.    A 
common  substitute  for  sea- water  as  a  bath  is 
made  by  dissolving  5  or  6  ounces  of  common 
salt  in  a  gallon  of  water. 

4460.  Dry  Salt  to  Imitate  Sea- Wa- 
ter.    The  following  mixture  of  dry  salts  may 
be  kept  for  the  immediate  production  of  a 
good    imitation  of   sea-water.      Chloride    of 
sodium  (that  obtained  from  evaporating  sea- 
water  and  not  recrystallized,  in  preference), 
85  ounces;    effloresced  sulphate  of  soda,  15 
ounces ;  dry  muriate  of  lime,  4  ounces ;  dry 
muriate  of  magnesia,  16  ounces;  iodide  of  po- 
tassium, 2  drachms ;  bromide  of  potassium,  1 
grain.    Mix  and  keep  dry.     Put  5  or  6  ounces 
to  a  gallon  of  water. 

4461.  Balaruc  Water.  Muriate  of 
soda,  1  ounce;  muriate  of  lime.  1  ounce; 
muriate  of  magnesia,  £  ounce;  sulphate  of 
soda,  3  drachms;  bicarbonate  of  soda,  2 
drachms ;  bromide  of  potassium,  1  grain ; 
water,  1  gallon.  Chiefly  used  for  baths. 

4462.  Simple  Sulphuretted  Waters. 
Pass  sulphuretted  hydrogen  into  cold  water 
(previously  deprived  of  air  by  boiling,  and 
cooled  in  a  close  vessel),  till  it  ceases  to  be  ab- 
sorbed. 

4463.  Aix-la-Chapelle    Water.      Bi- 
carbonate of  soda,  12  grains ;  muriate  of  soda, 
25  grains ;  muriate  of  lime,  3  grains ;  sulphate 
of  soda,  8  grains ;  simple  sulphuretted  water, 
2k  ounces;    water    slightly  carbonated,  17 1 
ounces. 

4464.  Bareges  Water.  (Cauterets, 
Bagneres  de  Luchon,  Bonnes  St.  Sauveur, 
may  be  made  in  the  same  manner. )  Crystal- 


MEDICINAL    TINCTURES. 


lized  hydrosulphate  of  soda,  crystallized  car- 
bonate of  soda,  and  chloride  of  sodium,  of 
each  2k  grains ;  water  (free  from  air),  1  pint. 
A  stronger  solution  for  adding  to  baths  is  thus 
made :  Crystallized  hydrosulphate  of  soda, 
crystallized  carbonate  of  soda,  and  muriate  of 
soda,  of  each  2  ounces ;  water,  10  ounces ; 
dissolve.  To  be  added  to  a  common  bath  at 
the  time  of  using. 

4465.  Naples  "Water.     Crystallized  car- 
bonate of  soda,  15  grains ;  fluid  magnesia, 
1    ounce ;    simple    sulphuretted    water,    2 
ounces;    aerated  water,   16  ounces.     Intro- 
duce the  sulphuretted  water  into  the  bottle 
last. 

4466.  Harrogate  "Water.     Chloride  of 
sodium,    100    grains;    muriate    of   lime,    10 
grains ;   muriate  of  magnesia,   6  grains ;   bi- 
carbonate   of   soda,    2    grains ;     water,    l&J 
ounces.      Dissolve  and  add  simple   sulphu- 
retted water,  1£  ounces. 

4467.  Simple  Chalybeate  "Water. 
"Water,  freed  from  air  by  boiling,  1  pint; 
sulphate  of  iron,  i  grain. 

4468.  Aerated    Chalybeate   "Water. 
Sulphate  of  iron,  1  grain ;  carbonate  of  soda, 
4  grains ;  water,  deprived  of  air  and  charged 
with  carbonic  acid  gas,  1  pint.     Dr.  Pereira 
recommends  10  grams  each    of  sulphate  of 
iron  and  bicarbonate  of  soda  to  be  taken  in  a 
bottle  of  ordinary  soda-water.    This  is  equiv- 
alent to  4  grains  of  carbonate  of  iron. 

4469.  Brighton  Chalybeate.  Sulphate 
of  iron,  muriate  of  soda,  muriate  of  lime,  of 
each  2  grains ;   carbonate  of  soda,  3  grains ; 
carbonated  water,  1  pint. 

4470.  Bussang  Water.     Dissolve  from 

1  to  £  grain  of  sulphate  of  iron,  2  or  3  grains 
carbonate  of  soda,  1  grain  sulphate  of  magne- 
sia, and  1  of  muriate  of  soda,  in  a  pint  of 
aerated  water.     Forges,  Provins,  and  other 
similar  waters  can  be  imitated  in  the  same 
manner. 

4471.  Mont  d'Or  "Water.     Bicarbonate 
of  soda,  70  grains ;  sulphate  of  iron,  £  grain ; 
muriate  of  soda,  12  grains ;  sulphate  of  soda, 
£  grain;  muriate  of  lime,  4  grains;  muriate 
of  magnesia,  2  grains ;  aerated  water,  1  pint. 
(See  No.  4431.) 

4472.  Passy  Water.     Sulphate  of  iron, 

2  grains ;  muriate  of  soda,  3  grains ;  carbon- 
ate of  soda,  4  grains ;  muriate  of  magnesia,  2 
grains ;  aerated  water,  1  pint. 

4473.  Pyrmont  Water.     Sulphate  of 
magnesia,  20  grains ;  muriate  of  magnesia,  4 
grains ;  muriate  of  soda,  2  grains ;  bicarbon- 
ate of  soda,  16  grains;   sulphate  of  iron,  2 
grains  ;  Carrara  water,  1  pint.  (Sec  No.  4435.) 

4474.  Mialhe's   Aerated  Chalybeate 
Water.  Water,  1  pint ;  citric  acid,  1  drachm ; 
citrate  of  iron,  15  grains ;  dissolve,  and  add 
75  grains  bicarbonate  of  soda. 

4475.  Trousseau's  Martial  Aerated 
Water.     Potassio-tartrate  of  iron,  10  grains ; 
artificial  Seltzer  water,  1  pint. 

4476.  Bouchardat's  Gaseous  Purga- 
tive.    Phosphate  of  soda,  1^-  ounces  ;  carbon- 
ated water,  1  pint. 

4477.  Mialhe's  loduretted  Gaseous 
Water.     Iodide    of   potassium,    15    grains; 
bicarbonate    of   soda,    75    grains;    water,    1 

Eint;    dissolve,   and  add   sulphuric  acid  di- 
ated  with  its  weight  of  water,  75  grains. 
Cork  immediately. 


4478.  Dupasquier's  Gaseous  Water 
of  Iodide  of  Iron.  Solution  of  iodide  of 
iron  (containing  10  per  cent,  of  dry  iodide), 
30  grains ;  syrup  of  gam,  2£  ounces ;  aerated 
water,  17£  ounces. 


Medicinal  Tinctures. 
These  are  solutions  of  the  active 
principles  of  bodies,  obtained  by  digesting 
them  in  alcohol  more  or  less  dilute.  Ethereal 
tinctures  are  similar  solutions  prepared  with 
ether.  (SecNos.  35,  <fc.)  Where  percolation 
is  resorted  to  in  the  preparation  of  tinctures, 
the  directions  laid  down  in  No.  41  should  be 
carefully  followed  to  ensure  success. 

4480.  Tincture  of  Assafetida.     Mace- 
rate 4  troy   ounces  assafetida  in  2  pints  al- 
cohol for  2  weeks,  and  filter  through  paper. 
(U.  S.Ph.) 

4481.  Tincture    of    Aconite     Leaf. 
Take  4  troy  ounces  recently  dried  aconite  leaf 
in  fine  powder ;  moisten  with  2  fluid  ounces 
diluted  alcohol ;   pack  it   firmly  in  a  conical 
percolator,  and  gradually  pour  diluted  alcohol 
sufficient    to   displace  2    pints   of    tincture. 
(U.  S.Ph.) 

4482.  Tincture    of    Aconite    Boot. 
Take  12  troy  ounces  aconite  root  in  fine  pow- 
der;  moisten  with  6  fluid  ounces  alcohol; 
pack  it  firmly  in  a  cylindrical  precolator,  and 
gradually  pour  alcohol  upon  it  until  2  pints 
of  tincture  arc  obtained.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4483.  Tincture  of  Arnica.      Take  6 
troy  ounces  tincture  of  arnica ;  mix  1  i  pints 
alcohol  and  $  pint  water ;  moisten  the  arnica 
slightly  with    this    mixture,   and    braise    it 
thoroughly  in  a  mortar.     Then  pack  it  firmly 
in  a  cylindrical  percolator,  and  pour  upon  it 
first  the  remainder  of  the  mixture,  and  after- 
wards sufficient  diluted  alcohol  to  make  the 
tincture  measure  2  pints.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4484.  Tincture  of  Belladonna.    Moist- 
en 4  troy  ounces  recently   dried  belladonna 
leaf,  in  fine  powder,  with  2  fluid  ounces  dilu- 
ted alcohol ;  pack  it  firmly  in  a  conical  per- 
colator, and  gradually  pour  diluted   alcohol 
upon  it  until  2  pints  of  tincture  are  obtained. 
(  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4485.  Tincture  of  Hemp.      Dissolve 
360  grains  purified  extract  of  hemp  in  1  pint 
alcohol,   and  filter  through   paper.       ( U.  S. 
Ph.) 

4486.  Tincture  of  Capsicum.     Moist- 
en  1  troy  ounce   capsicum,  in  fine   powder, 
with  i  fluid  ounce  diluted  alcohol;  pack  it  in  a 
conical  percolator,  and  gradually  pour  diluted 
alcohol  upon  it  until  2  pints  of  tincture  are  ob- 
tained.    (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4487.  Tincture  of  Cinchona.     Moisten 
6  troy  ounces  yellow  cinchona,  in  moderately 
fine  powder,  with  2  fluid  ounces  diluted  alco- 
hol ;  pack  it  firmly  in  a  glass  percolator  and 
displace,  with  diluted  alcohol,  2  pints  of  tinc- 
ture.    (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4488.  Compound    Tincture  of  Cin- 
chona.    Take  4  troy  ounces  red  cinchona,  3 
troy  ounces  bitter   orange   peel,    6   drachms 
serpentaria  (Vinginia  snakeroot),  3  drachms 
red  saunders,  all  in  moderately  fine  powder ; 
and  3  drachms  saffron  in  moderately  coarse 
powder.      Mix  the  powders,  moisten  with  4 


MEDICINAL    TINCTURES. 


415 


fluid  ounces  diluted  alcohol,  pack  it  firmly  in 
'a  glass  percolator,  and  displace,  -with  diluted 
alcohol,  2£  pints  of  tincture.  (  U.  S.  Ph.} 

4489.  Tincture  of  Hemlock.     Moisten 
4  troy  ounces  recently  dried  hemlock,  in  fine 
powder,  with  2  fluid  ounces  diluted  alcohol ; 
pack  it  firmly  in  a  conical  percolator,   and 

fradually  pour  diluted  alcohol  upon  it  until 
pints  of  tincture  are  obtained.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4490.  Tincture  of  Digitalis.     Moisten 
4  troy   ounces  recently  dried   digitalis   (fox 
glove),  in  fine  powder,  with  2  fluid  ounces 
diluted   alcohol ;  pack  it  firmly  in  a  conical 
percolator,  and  displace,  with  diluted  alcohol, 
2  pints  of  tincture.     ( U.  S.  Ph.} 

4491.  Tincture  of  Iodine.     Dissolve  1 
ounce  iodine  in  1  pint  alcohol.     (  U.  S.  Ph. ) 
Tincture  of  iodine  may  be  readily  prepared 
by  placing  the  iodine  in  a  glass  funnel,  having 
previously  filled  the  neck  with  broken  glass, 
and    pouring    on    the    alcohol    as  it  passes 
through.     To  prevent  evaporation,  cover  the 
funnel  with  a  close-fitting  glass  top.     Spirits 
of  camphor  may  also  be  speedily  made  in  this 
way. 

4492.  Tincture  of  Turkey-Corn. 
Take  3  ounces  powdered  Turkey-corn  root 
(corydalis)  and  make  1  pint  tincture  by  mace- 
ration or  displacement  with  diluted  alcohol. 
(Am.  Dis.) 

4493.  Tincture   of  Yellow   Jasmine 
(Gelseminum).     Cut    into    small  pieces    8 
ounces  of  the  fresh  root  of  yellow  jasmine 
(gelseminum);  macerate  for  14  days  in  2  pints 

.  diluted  alcohol,  express  and  filter.    This  forms 
a  saturated  tincture.     (Am.  Dis.) 

4494.  Universal  Tincture.    Bruise  the 
following  ingredients  and  digest  for  several 
days  in  18  ounces  brandy :  10  drachms  aloes ; 
8  drachms  each  white  agaric,  rhubarb  root, 
zedoary  root,  gentian  root,  galanga  root,  gum 
myrrh,    and   molasses   electuary ;   2  drachms 
saffron,    and  4   ounces   sugar.     Express   and 
filter. 

4495.  Compound  Tincture  of  Black 
Pepper.     This  is  prepared    with    30    parts 
capsicums ;  40  parts  black  pepper ;  15  parts 
each    grains   of  paradise,   cinnamon,   ginger, 
and  calamus  ;  15  parts  by  measure  acetate  of 
potassa,  and  60  parts  alcohol. 

4496.  Tincture  of  American  Helle- 
bore.      Moisten   16   troy   ounces    American 
Hellebore   (veratrum  yiride),  in  moderately 
fine    powder,   with  4  fluid  ounces    alcohol. 
Pack   it   firmly  in  a  cylindrical    percolator, 
and  displace,  with  alcohol,  2  pints  of  tinc- 
ture.    (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4497.  Compound  Tincture  of  Dew- 
berry.     Take    4   ounces    Dewberry   (rabus 
trivialis)    root,    i    ounce    powdered    Aleppo 
galls,    3    drachms    powdered    cinnamon,    10 
grains   powdered  capsicum,  1  drachm  pow- 
dered cloves,  and  -J-  ounce  gum  kino.    Digest 
for  14  days  in  2  pints  best  brandy.     Filter,  and 
add  1  ounce  tincture  of  opium,  1  ounce  essence 
of  peppermint,  and  1  pint  white  sugar.     Dose, 
1  tea-spoonful  for  an  adult. 

4498.  Tincture  of  Skunk-Cabbage. 
Take  3  ounces  skunk-cabbage  root  in  powder, 
and  1  pint  diluted  alcohol.    Make  a  tincture 
by  maceration,  or  displace  1  pint  from  a  per- 
colator.    (Am.  Dis.) 

4499.  Tincture  of  Stramonium.   Make 
1  pint  of  tincture  from  2  ounces  bruised  stra- 


monium seed  and  diluted  alcohol.     ( Am.  Dis.) 

4500.  Tincture  of  Monesia.    Take  1 
part  extract  of  monesia,  6  parts  alcohol,  and 
14  parts  water.     Mix  and  filter.     (Am.  Dis.) 

4501.  Tincture  of  St.  John's  Wort. 
Macerate  for  14  days  5  ounces  blossoms  of  St. 
John's  wort,  in  1  pint  alcohol.     Express  and 
filter.     (Am.  Dis.) 

4502.  Compound  Tincture  of  Kino. 
Take  4  drachms  each  powdered  opium,  gum 
kino,  and  cochineal ;  3  drachms  each  camphor 
and  cloves ;  and  4  drachms  aromatic  spirits  of 
ammonia.     Macerate  in  4  pints  dilute  alcohol. 
Express  and  filter. 

4503.  Camphorated  Tincture  of  Soap. 
There  has  been  some  difficulty  in  preparing 
this  liniment  as  directed  in  the  dispensatory, 
on  account  of  its  coagulating.     The  following 
formula  makes  a  tincture  which  remains  fluid 
at  all  temperatures.     Take  4  ounces  castile 
soap,  2  ounces  camphor,  £  ounce  oil  of  rose- 
mary, 16  ounces  water,  and  20  ounces  95  per 
cent,  alcohol. 

4504.  Tincture  of  Chloride  of  Iron. 
Introduce  3  troy  ounces  of  iron  wire,  cut  into 
pieces,  into  a  flask  of  the  capacity  of  2  pints ; 
pour  upon  it  11  troy  ounces  muriatic  acid,  and 
allow  the  mixture  to  stand  until  effervescence 
has  ceased.     Then  heat  it  to  the  boiling  point, 
decant  the  liquid  from  the  undissolved  iron, 
filter  it  through  paper,  and,  having  rinsed  the 
flask  with  a  little  boiling  distilled  water,  add 
this  to  it  through  the  filter.     Pour  the  filtrate 
into  a  4-pint   capsule,   add  6£  troy  ounces 
muriatic  acid ;  and,  having  heated  the  mixture 
nearly  to  the  boiling  point,  add  li  troy  ounces 
nitric  acid.    "When  effervescence  has  ceased, 
drop  in  nitric  acid,  constantly  stirring,  until  it 
no  longer   produces  effervescence.      Lastly, 
when  the  liquid  is  cold,  add  sufficient  distilled 
water  to  make  it  measure  1  pint,  and  mix  it 
with  3  pints  alcohol.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4505.  Tincture  of  Guaiac.     Reduce  6 
troy  ounces  guaiac  to  a  moderately  coarse 
powder,  mix  it  with  an  equal  bulk  of  dry  sand, 
pack  the  mixture  moderately  in  a  conical  per- 
colator ;  and,  having  covered  it  with  a  layer 
of  sand,  gradually  pour  alcohol  upon  it  until 
2  pints  of  tincture  are  obtained.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4506.  Tincture  of  Black  Hellebore. 
Moisten  4  troy  ounces   black    hellebore    in 
moderately  fine  powder,  with  1  fluid  ounce 
diluted  alcohol.     Pack  it  in  a  cylindrical  per- 
colator, and  gradually  pour  diluted  alcohol 
upon  it  until  2  pints  of  tincture  are  obtained. 
(U.  S.  Ph.) 

4507.  Tincture  of  Mandrake  (Podo- 
phyllin).    Make  1  pint  of  tincture  from  3 
ounces  mandrake-root  in  powder,  with  alcohol, 
either  by  maceration   or  percolation.     (Am. 

4508.      Tincture    of    Queen's    Boot 
(Stillingia).     Take  3  ounces  queen's  root, 
bruised  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  make ' 
1  pint  with  diluted  alcohol,  either  by  macera- 
tion or  displacement.     (Am.  Dis.) 

4509.  Tincture  of  Leopard's    Bane 
(Arnica    Flowers).      Macerate    2    ounces 
arnica  flowers  in  1  pint  dilute  alcohol ;   or 
put  the  arnica-flowers  in  a  percolator,  and 
with  diluted  alcohol  displace  1  pint.     (Am. 
Dis.) 

4510.  Tincture  of  Hops.     Moisten   5 
troy  ounces  hops,  in  moderately  coarse  pow- 


4:16 


MEDICINAL    TINCTURES. 


der,  with  2  fluid  ounces  diluted  alcohol. 
Pack  it  very  firmly  in  a  cylindrical  percolator, 
and  displace,  with  diluted  alcohol,  2  pints  of 
tincture.  (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4511.  Tincture  of  Henbane.     Moisten 
4  troy  ounces  henbane  leaf,  in  fine  powder, 
with  2  fluid  ounces  diluted  alcohol.     Pack  it 
firmly  in  a  conical  percolator,  and  gradually 
pour  diluted  alcohol  upon  it  until  2  pints  of 

•tincture  are  obtained.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4512.  Tincture  of  Kino.      Reduce  6 
drachms  kino  to  fine  powder.     Mix  the  pow- 
dered kino  thoroughly  with  an  equal  bulk  of 
dry  sand ;  introduce  the  mixture  into  a  coni- 
cal glass  percolator,  and  displace  i  pint  of 
tincture,  using  a  menstruum  composed  of  2 
parts  alcohol  and  1  part  water.      (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4513.  Tincture  of  Lobelia.     Moisten  4 
troy  ounces  lobelia,  in  fine  powder,  with  2 
fluid  ounces  diluted  alcohol ;  pack  it  firmly 
in  a  conical  percolator,  and  displace,  with  di- 
luted alcohol,  2  pints  of  tincture.    ( U.  S.  Ph.) 

4514.  Tincture  of  Cimicifuga  Race- 
mosa  (Black  Cohosh,  or  Black  Snake- 
Root).     Black  cohosh  root,  in  fine  powder, 
4  troy  ounces ;  alcohol,  1  pint.    Make  1  pint 
of  tincture  by  maceration  or  displacement. 
(Am.  Dis.) 

4515.  Norwood's  Tincture  of  Vera- 
trum     Viride     (American    Hellebore). 
Macerate  8    ounces    of  the    recently  dried, 
coarsely  powdered  root,  in  16  ounces  of  al- 
cohol for  14  days ;  express  and  filter  through 
paper.     (Am.  Dis.) 

4516.  Tincture  of  Chiretta.     Macerate 
2i  ounces   (avoirdupois)  chiretta,  cut  small 
and  bruised,  in  15  Imperial  fluid  ounces  recti- 
fied spirit,  for  48  hours.    Then  transfer  to  a 
percolator,  pouring  on  5  additional  fluid  oun- 
ces rectified  spirit;  press  the  residuum,  and 
filter ;  lastly,  add  rectified  spirit  to  make  up 
to  1  Imperial  pint.     (B.  Ph.) 

4517.  Tincture    of  Ergot.      Take    5 
ounces  (avoirdupois)  ergot,  and  proceed  in 
the  same  manner  as  for  tincture  of  chiretta. 
(B.  Ph.) 

4518.  Tincture  of  Blue-Flag.    Macer- 
ate 3  ounces  powdered  blue-flag  in  1  pint  al- 
cohol ;  or,  make  1  pint  by  percolation.     (Am. 
Dis.) 

4519.  Tincture  of  Lupulin.     Pack  4 
troy  ounces  lupulin  in  a  narrow  cylindrical 
percolator,  and  gradually  pour  alcohol  upon 
it  until  2  pints  of  tincture  are  obtained.    (  U. 
S.  Ph.) 

4520.  Tincture  of  Nux  Vomica.     Di- 
gest with  a  gentle  heat,  8  troy  ounces  finely 
powdered  nux-vomica  in  1  pint  alcohol,  for 
24  hours  in  a  close  vessel.     Then  transfer  the 
mixture  to  a  cylindrical  percolator,  and  grad- 
ually pour  alcohol  upon  it  until  2  pints  of 
tincture  are  obtained.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4521.  Tincture  of  Tobacco.     Take  a 
convenient  quantity  of  the  expressed  juice  of 
fresh- gathered  tobacco  leaves;  mix  it  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  rectified  spirits,  and  filter 
the  mixture.    This  tincture,  diluted  with  half 
its  weight  of  spirits  of  nitric  ether,  is  a  speci- 
fic for  cramps  or  spasms  of  the  bladder.     For 
this  purpose  it  is  administered  in  doses  of  10 
to  20  drops,  at  intervals  of  about  2  hours. 

4522.  Tincture  of  Rhubarb.     Mix  to- 
gether 3  troy  ounces  rhubarb  in  moderately 
coarse  powder,  and  £  troy  ounce  cardamom 


in  moderately  fine  powder;  moisten  with  1 
fluid  ounce  diluted  alcohol,  pack  moderately" 
in  a  conical  percolator,  and  displace,  with  di- 
luted alcohol,  2  pints  of  tincture.  (  U.  S.  Ph.) 
4523.  Tincture  of  Rhubarb  .and 
Senna.  Eeduce  to  a  moderately  coarse  pow- 
der, 1  troy  ounce  rhubarb,  2  drachms  senna,  2 
drachms  red  saunders,  1  drachm  each  corian- 
der and  fennel,  k  drachm  each  saffron  and 
liquorice,  and  6  troy  ounces  raisins  deprived 
of  their  seeds.  Macerate  for  14  days  in  3 
pints  diluted  alcohol,  and  filter  through  paper. 
(U.  S.  Ph.) 

4524.  Tincture  of  Bloodroot.    Moisten 
troy    ounces    bloodroot    (sanguinaria),   in 

moderately  fine  powder,  with  1  fluid  ounce 
diluted  alcohol ;  pack  it  in  a  conical  percola- 
tor, and  displace,  with  diluted  alcohol,  2  pints 
of  tincture.  (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4525.  Tincture  of  Serpentaria.    Moist- 
en 4  troy  ounces  serpentaria  (Virginia  snake- 
root),  in  moderately  fine  powder,  in  I  fluid 
ounce  diluted  alcohol.     Pack  it  in  a  conical 
percolator,  and  gradually  pour  diluted  alcohol 
upon  it  until  2  pints  of  tincture  are  obtained. 
(U.  S.  Ph.) 

4526.  Tincture  of  Valerian.      This  is 
obtained  in  the  same  manner  as  the  tincture 
of  serpentaria.      (See  last  formula.)      (U.S. 
Ph.) 

4527.  Camphorated  Tincture  of  Opium. 
(Paregoric  Elixir).     This  is  a  camphorated 
tincture  of  opium.    Macerate  1  drachm  each 
powdered  opium  and  benzbic  acid,    1  fluid 
drachm  oil  of  anise,  2  ounces  clarified  honey, 
and  2  scruples  camphor,  in  2  pints  diluted 
alcohol  for  7  days,  and  filter  through  paper. 
(U.S.  Ph.) 

4528.  Gummings'  Quick  Method  of 
Making  Paregoric.  Take  pulverized  opium, 
1  drachm ;  camphor  gum,  2  scruples ;  benzoic 
acid,  1  drachm ;  oil  of  aniseed,  1  fluid  drachm ; 
clarified  honey,  2  ounces ;  hot  water  and  alco- 
hol, 1  pint  each.    Dissolve  the  camphor  and 
oil  of  aniseed  in  the  alcohol ;   triturate  the 
powdered  opium  in  a  mortar  with  some  of  the 
hot  water  for  about  10  minutes,  filter,  and 
pass  the  remaining  water  through  the  dregs. 
To  the  fluid  obtained  add  the  alcoholic  solu- 
tion of  oil  and  camphor,  and  dissolve  finally 
the  honey  and  benzoic  acid  in  the  mixture. 
By  passing  this  once  more  through  the  pul- 
verized opium,  the  latter  will  become  perfectly 
exhausted.     The  addition  of  10  grains  of  santal 
gives  the  preparation  a  beautiful  rich  tint. 

4529.  Tincture  of  Opium.     (Lauda- 
num).    Macerate  2£  ounces  opium,  in  mode- 
rately fine  powder,  in  1  pint  water  for  3  days, 
with  frequent  agitation.     Add  1  pint  alcohol, 
and  macerate  for  3  days  longer.     Percolate, 
and  displace  2  pints  tincture  by  adding  dilute 
alcohol  in  the  percolator.     (  U.  S.  Ph. ) 

4530.  Ammoniated  Tincture  of 
Opium.  Digest  6  drachms  benzoic  acid, 
6  drachms  hay  saffron,  4  drachms  sliced 
opium,  and  1  drachm  oil  of  aniseed,  in  1 
quart  spirit  of  ammonia  for  a  week,  and 
filter.  Stimulant,  an ti- spasmodic,  and  ano- 
dyne. Dose,  20  to  80  drops. 
'4531.  Squibb's  Compound  Tincture 
of  Opium.  This  mixture  is  composed  of 
tincture  of  opium,  tincture  of  capsicum, 
spirit  of  camphor,  each  1  fluid  ounce;  puri- 
fied chloroform,  3  fluid  drachms ;  and  a  suffi- 


MEDICINAL    TINCTURES. 


cient  quantity  of  stronger  alcohol  to  make  |  alcohol,  pack  it  moderately  in  a  conical  per- 
the  whole  measure  5    fluid  ounces.      Bach  colator,  and  displace,  with  alcohol,  2  pints  of 


fluid  drachm,  or  tea-spoonful,  contains  about 
100  drops,  consisting  of  12  minims  of  each  of 
the  first  three  ingredients,  and  4i  minims  or 
18  drops  of  chloroform.  Dose,  for  persons 
over  18  years  of  age,  a  tea-spoonful ;  2  to  6, 
ten  to  thirty  drops ;  infants,  one  to  ten  drops, 
according  to  age.  In  time  of  epidemic  cholera 
or  diarrhea,  when  any  person  has  two  move- 
ments of  the  bowels  more  than  natural  within 
the  twenty-four  hours,  the  second  one  should 
be  followed  by  a  dose  of  this  mixture;  the 
dose  to  be  repeated  after  every  movement 
that  follows.  If  the  movements  increase  in 
frequency  or  in  copiousness  after  the  second 
dose  of  the  medicine  has  been  taken,  a  physi- 
cian should  be  sent  for  at  once,  and  a  double 
dose  be  taken  after  each  movement,  until  he 
arrives.  Immediately  after  taking  the  first 
dose,  the  person  should  go  to  bed,  and  remain 
there  for  twelve  hours  after  the  diarrhea  has 
entirely  ceased. 

4532.  Compound  Tincture  of  Pellitory. 
Take  of  bruised  pellitory,  4  drachms ;  cam- 
phor, 3  drachms ;  oil  of  cloves,  2  drachms ; 
powdered  opium,  1  drachm;  rectified  spirit, 
6  fluid  ounces ;  digest  for  8  days.     The  pro- 
duct is  a  most  serviceable  form  of  toothache- 
drops. 

4533.  Ethereo-alcoholic  Tincture  of 
Pellitory  for  Tooth  and  Face-ache.    Take 
of  bruised  pellitory,  1  ounce ;   pure  ether,  2 
fluid  ounces ;  strongest  rectified  spirit,  3  fluid 


the  tincture.  This  tincture  may  also  be  pre- 
pared by  maceration  for  14  days  with  2  pints 
alcohol,  and  filtering  through  paper.  (  U.  S. 
Ph.) 

4539.  Tincture  of  Cantharides.   Moist- 
en 1  troy  ounce  cautharides,  in  fine  powder, 
with  i  fluid  ounce  diluted  alcohol;  pack  it  in 
a  conical  percolator,  and  displace,  with  dilu- 
ted alcohol,  2  pints  of  tincture.     (  U.  S.  Ph.  ) 

4540.  Tincture  of  Cardamom.    Moist- 
en 4  troy  ounces  cardamom,  in  fine  powder, 
with  2  fluid  ounces  diluted  alcohol  ;  pack  it 
firmly  in  a  cylindrical  percolator,   and  dis- 
place, with  diluted  alcohol,  2  pints  of  tincture. 


(U.  S.  Ph.) 
4541.    Tincture 


of  Castor.     Macerate 


2  troy  ounces  bruised  castor  for  7  days  in  2 
pints  alcohol;  express,  and  filter  through 
paper. 

4542.  Acetous  Tincture  of  Valerian. 
Valerian  root,  bruised,  4  ounces  ;  acetie  acid, 
li  ounces;  diluted  alcohol,  li  pints.      Digest 
for  10  days  in  a  closed  vessel,  and  then  filter. 
The  tincture,  as  thus  prepared,  is  of  a  beauti- 
ful red  color  with  the  predominating  smell  of 
the  valerian  —  taste  bitter  and  slightly  astring- 
ent; may  be  given  in  doses  of  a  dessert  spoon- 
ful every  3  hours. 

4543.  Dover's    Tincture.     Pulverized 
ipecacuanha  and  opium,  of  each  8  grains  ;  di- 
luted alcohol,  1  fluid  ounce.     Macerate  for  14 
days  and  filter  ;  or  macerate  6  hours  and  dis- 


ounces  ;  digest  them  together  in  a  stoppered  j  place  1  fluid  ounce  with  diluted  alcohol,    1 


bottle,  in  a  cool  place,  for  a  week,  with  fre- 
quent agitation,  then  express  the  tincture,  but 
avoid  filtration.  Some  persons  use  equal  parts 
of  ether  and  spirit,  but  the  product  does  not 
then  keep  so  well.  An  excellent  remedy  for 
tooth-ache  and  face-ache,  often  giving  almost 
immediate  relief  in  the  former  case. 

4534.  Decoction  of  Balm  of  Gilead. 
For  the  decoction,  simmer  1  ounce  of  the 
buds  in  a  quart  of  soft  water,  down  to  half  a 
pint.    Take  a  wine-glassful  or  more,  when  the 
cough  is  troublesome. 

4535.  Tincture  of  Balm  of  Gilead. 
Infuse  2  ounces  of  the  buds  in  a  quart  of 
good  rum,  and  4  ounces  of  sugar.     Digest  for 
4  days.    Take  2  or  3  tea-spoonfuls  at  a  time. 
It  greatly  relieves  cough,  pains  in  the  chest, 
and  other  pulmonary  affections.    The  tincture 
and  decoction  form  excellent    remedies  for 
cough,  asthma,  wheezing,  &c. 

4536.  Tincture  of  Prickly-ash  Ber- 
ries.    Macerate  8  ounces  prickly-ash  berries 
(Xanthoxylum)  for  14  days  in  2  pints  diluted 
alcohol ;  or,  displace  2  ounces  of  tincture  by 
percolation.     This  tincture  possesses  all  the 
virtues  of  the  berries.    In  cholera,  the  dose  is 
from  i  to  1  fluid  ounce,  repeated  as  often  as 
required ;  in  ordinary  cases  from  1  to  4  fluid 
drachms,  given  in  water.     (Am.  Dis.) 

4537.  Tincture  of  Aloes.     Take  1  troy 
ounce  socotrine  aloes  in  fine  powder,  and  3 
troy  ounces  liquorice;  macerate  for  14  days 
in  &  pint  alcohol  and  1 5  pints  distilled  water, 
anil  filter  through  paper.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4538.  Tincture  of  Aloes  and  Myrrh. 
Take  3  troy  ounces  each  socotrine  aloes  and 
myrrh,  both  in  moderately  fine  powder;   1 
troy  ounce  saffron  in  moderately  coarse  pow- 
der ;  mix  together,  moisten  with  2  fluid  ounces 


fluid  drachm ;  equivalent  to  10  grains  Do- 
ver's powder.  Used  in  combination  with  spirit 
of  Mindereras  effervescing  draught,  and  other 
anti-febrile  remedies  in  liquid  form. 

4544.  Sweet  Tincture  of  Bed  Bark 
(Cinchona).  Red  cinchona  bark,  in  fine  pow- 
der, 4  troy  ounces ;  strong  alcohol  and  syrup, 
sufficient  quantity ;  dilute  alcohol  (alcohol  3 
parts  to  1  part  water),   1£  fluid    drachms. 
Moisten  the  cinchona  with  the  dilute  alcohol, 
and  pack  in  a  glass  funnel,  in  the  neck  of 
which  sufficient  tow  (free  from  tar)  has  been 
placed,  to  act  as  a  filter;   cover  the  surface 
with  a  piece  of  perforated  paper,  and  pour  on 
alcohol  previously  mixed  with  an  equal  vol- 
ume of  syrup  until  it  has  reached  the  tow  and 
the  surface  of  the  powder  is  covered ;  cork  the 
neck  of  the  funnel  and  allow  it  to  macerate  48 
hours;  then  remove  the  cork  and  continue 
the  percolation  with  equal  parts  of  alcohol 
and  syrup,  mixed,  until  16  fluid  ounces  have 
been  obtained. 

4545.  Sweet  Tincture  of  Rhubarb. 
Take  of  rhubarb,  bruised,  and  liquorice  root, 
bruised,  of  each  2  ounces;  aniseed,  bruised, 
and  sugar,  of  each  1  ounce ;  diluted  alcohol, 
2  pints.    Macerate  for  14  days,  express,  and 


filter. 
4546. 


Aqueous  Tincture  of  Rhubarb: 


Take  of  alkaline  fluid  extract  of  rhubarb,  3 
fluid  ounces.  (See  No.  4591.)  Neutral  carbon- 
ate of  potassa,  240  grains;  cinnamon  water,  4 
troy  ounces;  dissolve  the  carbonate  in  the 
cinnamon  water ;  add  the  fluid  extract,  and 
then  sufficient  water  to  make  the  whole  weigh 
14  troy  ounces.  The  above  is  an  improve- 
ment on  the  preparation  in  the  Prussian  Ph., 
but  are  in  officinal  proportions,  and  yield  a 
strictly  officinal  result. 


4:18 


FLUID    EXTRACTS. 


4547.  Tincture  of  Catechu.     Take 
troy  ounces  catechu,  and  2  troy  ounces  cin- 
namon, both    in  moderately  coarse  powder. 
Mix,  and  moisten  with  1  fluid  ounce  diluted 
alcohol ;  pack  it  into  a  conical  glass  percola- 
tor, and  displace,  with  diluted  alcohol,  2  pints 
of  tincture.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4548.  Tincture  of  Cinnamon.    Mix  2 
measures  alcohol  with  1  of  water;  moisten  3 
troy  ounces  finely  powdered  cinnamon  with  1 
fluid  ounce  of  the  mixture ;  pack  it  in  a  coni- 
cal percolator,  and  displace  with  the  mixture 
2  pints  of  tincture.      (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4549.  Tincture  of  Colchicum.   Moist- 
en 4  troy  ounces  colchicum  seed,  in  moder- 
ately fine  powder,  with  1  fluid  ounce  diluted 
alcohol;  pack  it  in  a  cylindrical  percolator, 
and  displace,  with  diluted  alcohol,  2  pints  of 
the  tincture.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4550.  Tincture  of  Columbo.    moisten 
4  troy  ounces  columbo,  in  moderately  one 
powder,  and  percolate  2  pints  tincture  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  colchicum  in  last  formula. 
(U.  8.  Ph.) 

4551.  Tincture  of  Cubeb.    Percolate  2 
pints  tincture  from  4  troy  ounces  cubeb,  fol- 
lowing the  formula  laid  down  for  colchicum. 
(See  No.  4549. )    (U.S.  Ph. ) 

4552.  Tincture  of  Tar.     Macerate  2 
ounces  tar  in  16  ounces  alcohol,   until  dis- 
solved. 

4553.  Hamilton's  Tincture  of  Dog- 
Wood.     Bark  of  dogwood,  1  ounce ;  rectified 
spirit,  12  fluid  ounces;  mix,  macerate  for  14 
days,  and  filter. 

4554.  Tincture  of  Colocynth.      Colo- 
cynth,  8  parts ;  star  anise,  1  part ;  alcohol,  96 
parts.     Macerate  for  3  days,  and  filter.    Dose, 
15  to  20  drops. 

4555.  Compound  Tincture  of  Squills 
and  Benzoin.   This  is  also  known  as  Wedel's 
Elixir.    Take  of  squills,  orris  root,  and  ele- 
campane, each  25  drachms ;  liquorice  root,  2 
drachms ;  aniseed  and  myrrh,  of  each  4  scru- 
ples ;  saffron,  18  grains ;   dilute  alcohol,  22 
fluid  ounces.    Macerate  for  15  days,  express 
and  filter.     Dose,  40  to  60  drops,  in  catarrh, 
asthma,  <fec. 

4556.  "Wood's  Tincture  of  Kino.    Kino 
in  fine  powder,  1£  ounces;  alcohol  (.835),  8 
fluid  ounces ;  water,  4  fluid  ounces ;  glycerine, 
4  fluid  ounces.    Mix  the  alcohol,  water,  and 

flycerine  together,  and,  having  mixed  the 
ino  with  an  equal  bulk  of  clean  sand,  intro- 
duce in  a  percolator  and  pour  on  the  men- 
struum. This  menstruum  seems  to  thorough- 
ly exhaust  the  drug  of  its  astringent  principle, 
and  also  makes  a  nice-looking  preparation 
that  will  not  deteriorate  by  exposure. 

4557.  Compound  Tincture  of  Kino. 
This  is  made  in  the  same  way  as  other  tinc- 
tures (see  No.  35),  with  the  following  ingre- 
dients :  1  drachm  each  powdered  opium,  kino, 
and  cochineal ;  1^  drachms  each  camphor  and 
cloves ;  1  fluid  ounce  aromatic  spirit  of  am- 
monia, and  1  pint  alcohol. 

4558.  Tincture  of  Ginger.    Moisten  8 
troy  ounces  ginger,  in  fine  powder,  with  2 
fluid  ounces  alcohol ;  pack  it  firmly  in  a  cylin- 
drical percolator,  and  displace,  with  alcohol,  2 
pints  of  tincture.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4559.  Tincture  of  Jalap.     Mix  2  mea- 
sures alcohol  with  1  water;  moisten  6  troy 
ounces  jalap,  in  fine  powder,  with  2  fluid  oun- 


ces of  the  mixture ;  pack  it  moderately  in  a 
cylindrical  percolator,  and  displace  with  the 
mixture  2  pints  of  tincture.  (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4560.  Tincture  of  Myrrh.      Take  3 
troy  ounces  myrrh  in  moderately  coarse  pow- 
der ;  press  it  moderately  into  a  conical  perco- 
lator, and  displace  with  alcohol  2  pints  of 
tincture.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4561.  Tincture  of  Nutgall.     Moisten  4 
troy  ounces  nutgall,  in  moderately  fine  pow- 
der, with  1  fluid  ounce  diluted  alcohol;  pack 
it  in  a  glass  percolator,   and  displace,  with 
diluted  alcohol,  2  pints  tincture.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4562.  Tincture  of  Quassia.    Moisten  2 
troy  ounces  quassia,  in  moderately  fine  pow- 
der, with  1  fluid  ounce  diluted  alcohol ;  pack 
it  in  a  percolator  and  displace,  with  diluted 
alcohol,  2  pints  of  tincture.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4563.  Tincture  of  Bhatany.    Moisten 
6  troy  ounces  rhatany,   in  moderately  fine 
powder,  with  2  fluid  ounces  diluted  alcohol ; 
pack  it  in  a  cylindrical  glass  percolator,  and 
displace,  with  diluted  alcohol,  2  pints  of  tinc- 
ture.    (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4564.  Tincture  of  Squill.     Moisten  4 
troy  ounces  squill,  in  moderately  coarse  pow- 
der, with  1  fluid  ounce  diluted  alcohol;  pack 
it  in  a  conical  percolator,  and  displace,  with 
diluted  alcohol,  2  pints  tincture.     (  U.  S.  Ph. ) 

4565.  Tincture  of  Stramonium.    Take 
4  troy  ounces  stramonium  seed,  in  moderately 
fine  powder,  and  percolate  2  pints  of  tincture 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  squill  in  the  last 
formula.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4566.  Tincture  of  Tolu.     Macerate  3 
troy  ounces  balsam  of  tolu  in  2  pints  alcohol 
until  it  is  dissolved  ;  then  filter.    (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4567.  Compound  Tincture  of  Benzoin. 
Macerate  3  troy  ounces  benzoin,  •£  troy  ounce 
socotrine  aloes,  both  in  coarse  powder,  and  2 
troy  ounces  storax,  for  14  days  in  2  pints  alco- 
hol; filter  through  paper.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4568.  Compound  Tincture  of  Carda- 
mom.    Take  6  drachms  cardamom,  2  drachms 
caraway,  5  drachms  cinnamon,  1  drachm  coch- 
ineal, all  in  moderately  fine  powder ;  mix  to- 
gether, and  moisten  with  k  fluid  ounce  diluted 
alcohol ;  pack  it  in  a  cylindrical  percolator, 
and  displace,   with  diluted  alcohol,  6   fluid 
ounces  of  tincture.     Lastly  mix    this  with 
2    troy    ounces    clarified    honey,    and  filter 
through  paper.     ( U.  S.  Ph. ) 

4569.  Compound  Tincture  of  Gentian. 
Mix  together  2  troy  ounces  gentian,  1  troy 
ounce  bitter  orange  peel,  h  troy  ounce  carda- 
mom, all  in  fine  powder ;    moisten  with  1£ 
fluid  ounces  diluted  alcohol ;  pack  it  in  a  con- 
ical  percolator,    and    displace,   with  diluted 
alcohol,  2  pints  of  tincture.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4570.  Compound  Tincture  of  Iodine. 
Dissolve  -J  troy  ounce  iodine  and  1  of  iodide 
of  potassium  in  1  pint  alcohol.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 


Flllid  Extracts.  This  form  of 
medicinal  extracts  was  inte-oduced  into 
the  United  States  Pharmacopoeia  in  1850,  for 
the  first  time  as  a  distinct  class  of  prepara- 
tions. Their  distinctive  character  is  the  concen- 
tration of  the  active  ingredients  of  a  substance 
into  a  small  bulk  and  in  liquid  form.  Their 
advantages  consist  in  greater  convenience  of 
administration,  and  in  the  fact  that,  not  having 


FLUID    EXTRACTS. 


been  subjected  to  excessive  evaporation,  the 
active  principles  they  contain  are  less  liable 
to  have  suffered  injury  by  heat. -  The  main 
difficulty  lies  in  their  liquid  form  increasing 
the  liability  to  undergo  spontaneous  decom- 
position ;  this  is  counteracted  in  some  cases 
by  the  addition  of  sugar,  in  others  by  alcohol, 
and  in  others  again  by  a  mixture  of  both. 
Some  .fluid  extracts  have  a  tendency  to  de- 
posit matter  when  combined  with  sugar,  ren- 
dering the  extract  turbid  or  cloudy  in  appear- 
ance; instead  of  sugar,  Mr.  Alfred  B.  Taylor 
has  proposed  the  use  of  glycerine,  which, 
while  it  has  the  same  preservative  influence, 
possesses  the  property  of  dissolving  the  mat- 
ter which  would  be  deposited  by  the  use  of 
sugar.  Fluid  extracts  are  obtained  by  perco- 
lation, and  the  menstruum  used  is  alcohol  or 
alcohol  and  water,  the  proportions  of  each 
depending  on  the  nature  of  the  substance  to 
be  extracted.  The  price  of  alcohol  has  greatly 
increased  since  1860,  and  a  regard  to  economy 
has  probably,  in  some  cases,  induced  devia- 
tions in  officinal  preparations.  This  point 
will  probably  receive  -due  consideration  at 
the  next  revision  of  the  Pharmacopeia. 

4572.  Grahame's  Method  of  Perco- 
lation.    Professor  Grahame,  of  the  Maryland 
College  of  Pharmacy,  has  proposed  a  modifi- 
cation of  the  displacement  process  which  may 
be  thus  stated :     Reduce  the  substance,  by 
contusion,  to  a  powder  which  will  pass  through 
a  sieve  of  40  meshes  to  the  linear  inch  (if  of 
close  texture  a  sieve  of  60  meshes  is  to  be 
preferred) ;   now  add  just  sufficient   of   the 
menstruum  to  dampen  the  powder  without 
wholly  destroying  its  mobility ;  this  usually 
requires  about  one-fourth  as  much  menstruum 
as  of  the  powder.     Transfer  to  a  glass  funnel 
with  a  plug  of  cotton  in  the  neck,  and  pack  it 
with  little  or  much  pressure,  according  to  its 
tenacity  or  disposition  to  adhere  (more  firmly 
when  alcohol  or  ether  is  the  menstruum  than 
when  water  is  to  be  used) ;  if  the  particles  of 
the  moistened  powder  move  freely  on  each 
other,  the  packing  should  be  with  as  much 
force  as  a  glass  vessel  will  bear,  the  whole  of 
the  powder  being  introduced  at  once,   and 
packed  with  a  pestle  or  packing-stick.     The 
whole  quantity  of  the  menstruum  may  now 
be  poured  on,  or  to  the  capacity  of  the  funnel, 
and  the  process  allowed  to  proceed  to  comple- 
tion, without  in  any  case  repassing  the  first 
portions  of  the   liquid.     By  this  process,   if 
carefully  followed,  very  concentrated  solutions 
are  obtained.     Indeed,  most  of  the  fluid  ex- 
tracts may  be  completed  with  little  or  no 
evaporation. 

4573.  Procter's  Classified  Formula 
for  Making  Fluid  Extracts.     In  order  to 
obtain  as  great  a  uniformity  in  the  preparation 
of  fluid  extracts  as  the  nature  of  the  various 
drugs  would  permit,  the  following  practical 
classification   was    drawn    up    by    Professor 
William   Procter,  Jr.,  and  submitted  to  the 
American     Pharmaceutical    Association,    by 
whom  the  matter  had  been  entrusted  to  him 
for  investigation.      In    order    to    economize 
space,  we  give  it  in  a  somewhat  condensed 
form.      The  paramount  object  in  obtaining 
the  fluid  extract  of  a  drug,  is  to  extract,  as  far 
as  possible,  all  the  valuable  ingredients;  to 
condense   them    to    some   uniform  standard 
strength,   so    that,  for   instance,   each   fluid 


ounce  of  the  extract  should  contain  the  vir- 
tues of,  and  represent  1  ounce  of  the  drug; 
and  to  leave  the  fluid  in  the  best  possible  con- 
dition for  retaining  in  solution  the  active 
principles  of  the  drug.  The  process  of  perco- 
lation is  adopted,  as  best  adapted  to  effect  the 
desired  objects,  and  admitting  a  greater  de- 
gree of  accuracy  than  that  of  maceration. 
Glass  funnels  answer  a  good  purpose,  but 
cylindrical  percolators  may  be  employed.  In 
either  case,  if  the  powder  has  been  properly 
compacted,  the  menstruum,  when  added,  pass- 
es very  deliberately,  by  drops,  and  it  will  be 
found  that  the  proportion  of  the  percolate 
which  is  directed  to  be  reserved  will  contain 
nearly  all  of  the  most  valuable  parts  of  the 
drug.  In  this  way  the  action  of  the  heat  and 
air  is  entirely  prevented  on  the  most  import- 
ant part  of  the  extracted  matter,  and  where 
volatile  oils  are  concerned  this  fact  is  particu- 
larly important.  The  ingredients  are  first  re- 
duced to  a  powder;  and,  in  order  to  ensure 
the  required  result,  different  degrees  of  fine- 
ness are  recommended,  suitable  to  the  degree 
of  solubility  and  other  natural  peculiarities  of 
the  various  drugs  employed.  This  end  is  at- 
tained by  sifting  the  powder  through  sieves 
containing  a  certain  number  of  meshes  to  the 
linear  inch.  A  sieve  of  40  meshes  to  the  inch 
will  produce  a  powder  designated  as  No. 
40,  <fec. 

A  new  class  of  oleo-resinous  fluid  extracts 
has  been  suggested,  in  which  the  stronger 
aromatics  have  been  introduced,  such  as 
cloves,  cinnamon,  cardamom,  <fcc.,  and  which 
possess,  for  certain  uses,  very  desirable  advan- 
tages from  their  concentration.  The  number 
of  oleo-resins  has  been  considerably  increased, 
on  the  ground  that  they  represent  their  re- 
spective sources  more  completely  and  in 
smaller  bulks  than  in  any  other  form  of  fluid 
or  semi-fluid  extracts.  On  account  of  their 
superior  strength,  they  should  occupy  a  dis- 
tinct position  under  the  name  of  "  Olco-resins," 
to  distinguish  them  more  particularly  from  all 
those  preparations  which  go  by  the  name  of 
fluid  extracts. 

4574.  Class  No.  1,  of  Classified  Fluid 
Extracts.  The  following  substances  are  to 
be  reduced  to  a  powder  of  No.  60  degree  of 
fineness ;  with  the  exception  of  Buchu,  which 
should  be  in  No.  40  powder. 


Aconite  Leaves. 

Belladonna  Leaves. 

Buchu. 

Digitalis     (Fox  glove). 


Henbane  Leaves. 

Matico. 

Thorn-Apple  (Stramonium). 

Valerian. 


The  menstruum  employed  is  2  pints  alco- 
hol diluted  with  1  pint  water.  Moisten  16 
troy  ounces  of  the  powdered  drug  evenly  with 
4  fluid  ounces  of  the  diluted  alcohol ;  pack  it 
firmly  in  a  percolator,  cover  the  surface  of  the 
powder  with  a  disc  of  cloth  (muslin,  linen, 
lint,  or  any  insoluble  porous  tissue,  to  prevent 
the  disturbance  of  the  powder) ;  then  pour  on 
the  menstruum  gradually,  so  as  to  displace  3 
pints ;  reserve  the  first  12  fluid  ounces,  and 
evaporate  the  remainder  on  a  water-bath  at 
150°  Fahr.,  to  4  fluid  ounces ;  mix  this  with 
the  reserved  tincture ;  and,  after  standing  24 
hours,  filter  through  paper.  The  alcoholic 
strength  of  these  extracts  is  nearly  50  per 
cent. 

4575.  Class  No.  2,  of  Classified  Fluid 
Extracts.  The  drugs  included  under  this 


4:20 


FLUID    EXTRACTS. 


class  should  also  be  in  at  least  No.  60  pow- 
der. Ipecacuanha  and  jalap  may  be  reduced 
to  dust  with  advantage.  The  fluid  to  be 
used  is  alcohol  having  a  specific  gravity  of 
.835. 


Aconite  Root. 
Black  Snakeroot    (Cimici- 
fuga,  or  Black  Cohosh). 
Black  Hellebore. 
Ipecacuanha. 


Jalap. 

May-apple   Root     (Podo- 

phyllum  or  Maudrake). 

BloodRoot  (Sanguinaria). 

American  Hellebore  (Ver- 

atrumviride). 


Colchicum  Root. 

Columbo. 
Chiretta. 

Boneset    (Eupatorium). 


Moisten  16  troy  ounces  of  the  drug  with  6 
fluid  ounces  of  the  alcohol ;  displace  3  pints 
as  directed  in  class  1,  reserving  the  first  4 
pint  of  percolate ;  distill  the  remainder  until 
reduced  to  £  pint,  and,  while  hot,  mix  the  dis- 
tillate with  the  reserved  tincture.  After 
standing  24  hours,  filter  through  paper. 

4576.  Class  No.  3,  of  Classified  Fluid 
Extracts.     The  substances  included  under 
this  class  require  to  be  used  in  No.  50  pow- 
der ;  except  columbo,  No.  40 ;  and  squill,  on 
account  of  its  gummy  nature,  No.  30.    The 
extract  of  colchicum  deposits,  by  standing,  a 
whitish  sediment,  which  is  believed  to  be  in 
no  wise  connected  with  the  activity  of  the 
preparation ;  it  is  recommended  to  allow  this 
deposit  to  form  before  proceeding  to   filtra- 
tion.   Dilute  alcohol  is  employed  for  making 
these  extracts. 

Gentian. 
Squill  (Scilla). 
Seneka. 

Virginia  Snake  Root  (Ser- 
pentaria). 

Moisten  16  troy  ounces  of  the  substance 
with  4  fluid  ounces  dilute  alcohol,  percolate  3 
pints,  as  in  class  1,  reserving  the  first  12  fluid 
ounces,  evaporate  the  remainder  to  4  fluid 
ounces  by  a  water-bath  at  150°  Fahr. ;  mix 
with  the  reserved  tincture;  and,  after  24 
hours,  filter. 

4577.  Class    No.    4,    of   Classified 
Fluid  Extracts.     This  class  consists  of  sac- 
charine fluid  extracts,  the  sugar  being  intro- 
duced as   a  preservative  agent.     A  decided 
advantage  is  gained  by  adding  the  sugar  to 
the  extract  before  the  completion  of  the  evap- 
oration ;  in  some  cases  it  might  bo  better  to 
add  the  sugar  previous  to  any  evaporation. 
The  fluid  extracts  of  pipsissewa,  bittersweet, 
pomegranate,    pink-root,    and     sarsaparilla, 
fully  represent  the  several  drugs ;  and,  com- 
bined with  3  times  their  bulk  of  simiple  syrup, 
afford  syrups  of  the  ordinary  strength.     The 
menstruum  used  in  these  preparations  is  di- 
lute alcohol ;  and  the  drags  are  to  bo  reduced 
to  No.  50  powder,  except  galls,  which  should 
bo  No.  40. 

Yellow     Peruvian     Bark 
(Cinchona  Calisaya). 
Pipsissewa    (Chimaphila). 
Bittersweet    (Dulcamara). 
Galls. 
Crauesbill    (Geranium). 


Bark 


Pom  egranate-root 

(Granatum). 

Blackberry  Boot  (Rubus). 
SarsaparUla. 
Pink  Root  (Spigelia). 
Bearberry    Leaves     (Uva 

Ursi). 

Moisten  1C  troy  ounces  of  the  powdered  drug 
with  i  pint  dilute  alcohol ;  let  it  stand  30 
minutes,  then  percolate  as  directed  for  class  1, 
until  3  pints  have  passed  through  ;  evaporate 
at  a  moderate  heat  on  a  water-bath  to  1  pint ; 
add  10  ounces  sugar,  evaporate  to  1  pint,  and 
strain  while  hot. 

4578.  Class  No.  5,  of  Classified  Fluid 
Extracts.  The  extracts  obtained  by  this 
process  are  termed  acetic  fluid  extracts.  The 


Orris  Root,  (Iris   Floren- 

tina). 
Myrrh. 
Pellitory     Root    (Pyreth- 

rum). 

Allspice  (Pimento). 
Prickly    Ash    Bark  (Xan- 
thoxylum). 


acetic  acid  is  introduced  to  control  the  ten- 
dency to  decomposition,  caused  by  the  exist- 
ence, in  the  drugs  treated  in  this  manner,  of  a 
salt  consisting  of  an  alkaloid  and  an  organic 
acid.  The  fluid  used  is  a  mixture  of  i  fluid 
ounce  acetic  acid  and  3  pints  diluted  alcohol ; 
and  the  drugs  should  be  reduced  to  a  No.  60 
powder. 

Ergot.     Lobelia  Leaves.      Hemlock  (Conium). 

Moisten  16  troy  ounces  of  the  powder  with 
£pint  of  the  acetic  mixture;  pack  it  in  a  con- 
ical percolator,  and  displace  3  pints,  reserving 
the  first  12  fluid  ounces,  using  dilute  alcohol 
during  the  last  part  of  the  percolation.  Evap- 
orate the  latter  percolate  to  4  fluid  ounces, 
at  a  temperature  not  exceeding  150°  Fahr.; 
mix  this  with  the  reserved  tincture,  and  fil- 
ter through  paper. 

4579.  Class  No.  6,  of  Classified  Fluid 
Extracts.      Under  this  division  are  placed 
oleoresinous  fluid  extracts.      (See  No.  4573.) 
The  menstruum  employed  is  deodorized  alco- 
hol, and  the  drugs  are  used  in  No.  50  powder ; 
except  canella,  Ceylon  cinnamon,  elecampane, 
and  orris  root,  used  in  No.  60,  and  myrrh  in 
No.  30  powder. 

Capsicum. 

Canella. 

Cardamom. 

Cloves  (Caryophyllum). 

Ceylon  Cinnamon. 

Cubebs. 

Elecampane  (Inula). 

Lupulin. 

The  oleoresin  of  the  above  substances  are 
to  be  obtained  by  percolation,  and  distilling 
off  the  alcohol. 

This  process  of  obtaining  the  oleoresins  was 
modified  before  adoption  in  the  U.  S.  Ph!,  by 
substituting  ether  for  deodorized  alcohol  as 
the  menstruum  employed.  The  five  following 
oleoresins  are  officinal  preparations. 

4580.  Oleoresin  of  Capsicum.     Take 
12  troy  ounces  capsicum  in  fine  powder,  press 
it  firmly  in  a  cylindrical  percolator,  and  grad- 
ually pour  ether  on  it  sufficient  to  displace  24 
fluid  ounces.     Recover  from  this,  by  distilla- 
tion on  a  water-bath,  18  fluid  ounces  of  ether, 
and  expose  the  residue  in  a  capsule  until  the 
remaining  ether  has  evaporated ;  lastly,  re- 
move, by  straining,    the  fatty  matter  which 
separates  on  standing,  and  keep  the  oleoresin  in 
a  well  stopped  bottle.     (  U.  S.  Ph). 

4581.  Oleoresin  of  Cubebs.    Moderate- 
ly press  12  troy  ounces   cubebs   in  fine  pow- 
der into  a  cylindrical  percolator,  and   treat 
by  the  same  process  as  the  capsicum  in  the 
last  formula.     (  U.  S.  Ph). 

4582.  Oleoresin  of  Lupulin.     Press  12 
troy  ounces  lupulin  into  a  narrow  cylindrical 
percolator,   and  displace  with   ether  30  fluid 
ounces;  complete  the  process  by  distillation 
and  subsequent  evaporation  in  the  same  way 
as  for  capsicum.     (See  No.  4580.)      (U.   jS. 
Ph). 

4583.  Oleoresin    of   Black    Pepper. 
Treat  12  troy   ounces   black   pepper  in   fine 
powder,  by  ethereal  percolation  and  distilla- 
tion, in  the  same  manner  as  laid  down  in  No. 
4580 ;  expose  the  residue  after  distillation  in  a 
capsule,  until  the  remaining  ether  has  evap- 
orated and  the  deposition  of  piperin  in  cryr,- 
tals  has  ceased.     Lastly,  separate  the  oleoi  es- 
in  from  the  piperin  by  expression  through  a 
muslin  strainer,  and  keep  in  a  well -stopped 
bottle.     ( U.  S.  Ph). 


FLUID    EXTRACTS. 


4584.  Oleoresin  of  Ginger.     Take  12 
troy  ounces  ginger  in  line  powder,   press  it 
firmly  into  a  cylindrical  percolator,  and  pour 
upon  it  12  fluid  ounces  stronger  ether;  con- 
tinue the  percolation  with  alcohol  sufficient 
to  displace  12  fluid  ounces  in  all.     Recover 
from  this,  by  distillation  cm  a  water-bath,  9 
fluid  ounces  ether,  and  expose  the  residue  in 
a  capsule  until  the  volatile  part  has  evaporated. 
Lastly,  keep  the  oleoresin  in  a  well- stoppered 
battle.     (17.  S.  Ph.) 

4585.  Oleoresin  of  Male  Fern.     Pack 
closely  2  pounds  avoirdupois,  male  fern,  in 
coarse  powder  in  a  percolator ;  displace  with 
4  imperial  pints  ether,  or  until  it  passes  color- 
less.   Let  the  ether  evaporate  on  a  water- 
bath,  or  recover  it  by  distillation,  and  pre- 
serve the  oily  extract.     (Br.  Ph.)    This  prep- 
aration by  its  character  decidedly  belongs  to 
the  oleoresius ;  it  has  long  been  known  and 
much  used  in  Europe,  under  the  name  of  oil 
of  fern,  in  the  treatment  of  the  tapeworm. 
It  is  believed  to  have  all  the  vermifugal  pow- 
ers of  the  malo  fern,  and  may  be  given  in  •£ 
fluid  drachm  doses.     ( U.  S.  Dis.) 

4586.  Fluid  Extract  of  Rhubarb  and 
Potassa.     Grind  or  coarsely  bruise  2  pounds 
avoirdupois  best  India  rhubarb,  1  pound  cassia 
or  cinnamon,  and  1  pound  golden  seal ;  mace- 
rate for  24  hours  or  more  in  1  gallon  good 
French  brandy;  express  strongly,  and  add  1 
fluid   drachm 'oil   of   peppermint   previously 
dissolved  in  a  little  90    per    cent,   alcohol. 
Break  up  the  compressed  residue,  and  per- 
colate  with    warm    water    until   exhausted. 
Evaporate  this  solution  to  4  pints,  and,  while 
warm  (not  too  hot),  dissolve  in  it  2  pounds 
bicarbonate  of  potassa,  and  3  pounds  refined 
sugar ;  evaporate,  if  necessary,  to  the  quan- 
tity that  the  first  macerated  tincture  lacks  of 
1£  gallons.     Lastly  mix  the  two  together.    It 
is  used  for  the  same  purposes  as  the  compound 
powder  of  rhubarb,  2  fluid  drachms  of  the 
extract  being  equivalent  to  1  drachm  of  the 
powder.     (Am.  Dis.)    A  simple  alkaline  ex 
tract  of  rhubarb  is  given  in  No.  4591. 

4587.  Fluid    Extract    of   Stillingia. 
Cut  fresh  root  of  Stillingia,   16  troy  ounces, 
into  small  pieces ;    cover  with   alcohol,  and 
digest  for  24  hours.     Then  transfer  to  a  per- 
colator, and  pack  it  so  as  to  run  slowly ;  add 
alcohol    gradually,   returning    the  first  that 
passes  until  it  runs  clear.     Reserve  the  first 
12  fluid  ounces  percolated  ;  then  continue  the 
percolation,   with   diluted   alcohol,  until   the 
residuum  is  nearly  exhausted ;  add  8  ounces 
white  sugar  to  this  dilute  percolate,  and  evap- 
orate  by   moderate  heat  to  4  fluid   ounces. 
Add  to  this  the  reserved  tincture,  and  1  fluid 
drachm  oil  of  caraway,  and  make  1  pint  fluid 
extract.     The  dose  is  from  2  to  5  drops. 

4588.  Fluid  Extract  of  Yarrow. 
Take  of  yarrow  (the  recently  dried  herb) 
in  coarse  powder,  8  ounces ;  dilute  alcohol  (2 
parts  95  per  cent,  alcohol  and  1  part  water), 
a  sufficient  quantity.  Pour  over  the  powdered 
herb  4  ounces  of  the  diluted  alcohol,  and  work 
through  with  the  hands  until  thoroughly 
moistened ;  allow  it  to  stand  in  a  covered 
jar  for  24  hours.  Pack  closely  in  a  funnel  or 
other  displacer  and  proceed  to  displace  until 
24  fluid  ounces  are  obtained,  which,  if  per- 
formed with  proper  care,  will  exhaust  the 
herb,  as  tested,  by  tasting  the  droppings. 


The  resulting  liquid  should  be  exposed  in  a 
shallow  dish  (in  summer  to  a  draught  of  air 
under  an  open  window,  in  winter  on  a  shelf 
near  the  top  of  the  room),  and  allowed  to 
evaporate  spontaneously  until  it  measures  16 
fluid  ounces;  30  cr  40  grains  bicarbonate  of 
potassa  in  powder  may  then  be  added,  which 
retains  the  extractive  in  solution,  and  clears 
the  liquid  without  interfering  with  its  proper- 
ties. The*  evaporation  of  this  fluid  extract 
may  be  continued,  if  desired,  with  a  very  gen- 
tle heat  (in  a  water-bath)  until  reduced  to 
the  consistence  of  an  ordinary  extract.  The 
result  in  either  case,  fluid  or  solid,  possesses 
in  a  marked  degree  the  sensible  and  other  pro- 
perties of  the  herb,  each  tea-spoonful  repre- 
senting 30  grains  of  the  herb. 

4589.  Procter's  Fluid  Extract  of 
Wild  Cherry  Bark.  Take  of  wild  cherry 
bark,  24  ounces;  sweet  almonds,  3  ounces; 
and  pure  granulated  sugar,  36  ounces.  Mace- 
rate the  powdered  bark  in  2  pints  of  83  per 
cent,  alcohol  for  8  hours,  introduce  it  into  a 
percolator,  and  pour  alcohol  on  it  until  5 
pints  have  passed,  observing  to  regulate  the 
passage  of  the  liquid  by  a  cork  or  stop-cock. 
Introduce  the  tincture  into  a  capsule  (or  still, 
if  the  alcohol  is  to  be  regained),  and  evapo- 
rate it  to  a  syrupy  consistence;  add  i  pint 
water,  and  again  evaporate  until  all  the  alco- 
hol is  removed.  Beat  the  almonds,  without 
bleaching,  into  a  smooth  paste  with  a  little  of 
the  water,  and  then  sufficient  to  make  the 
emulsion  measure  1£  pints,  and  pour  it  into  a 
quart  bottle,  previously  containing  the  solu- 
tion of  the  extract  of  bark;  cork  it  securely 
and  agitate  occasionally  for  24  hours,  so  as  to 
give  time  for  the  decomposition  of  the  atuyg- 
daline.  The  mixture  is  then  to  be  quickly 
expressed  and  filtered  into  a  bottle  containing 
the  sugar.  "Water  should  be  added  to  the 
dregs  and  they  again  expressed  till  sufficient 
liquor  is  obtained  to  make  the  fluid  extract 
measure  3  pints.  The  proportion  of  sugar, 
though  less  than  that  in  syrup,  is  sufficient  to 
preserve  the  preparation,  aided  by  the  presence 
of  hydrocyanic  acid. 

4590.  Parrish's  Compound  Fluid  Ex- 
tract of  Buchu.  Take  of  buchu,  in  coarse 
powder,  12  ounces ;  alcohol,  3  pints ;  water,  6 
pints,  or  sufficient.  Treat  the  leaves  by  ma- 
ceration and  displacement,  first  with  a  por- 
tion of  the  alcohol,  and  then  with  the  remain- 
der mixed  with  the  water;  evaporate  the 
resulting  liquid  with  a  gentle  heat  to  3  pints, 
and  add  2^-  pounds  sugar.  Continue  the  heat 
till  it  is  dissolved,  and,  after  removing  from 
the  fire,  add  oil  of  cubebs,  oil  of  juniper,  of 
each  1  fluid  drachm  ;  spirit  of  nitric  ether,  12 
fluid  ounces,  previously  mixed.  Stir  to- 
gether. 

4591.  Alkaline  Fluid  Extract  of 
Rhubarb.  Take  of  fluid  extract  of  rhubarb 
(by  repercolation),  1  fluid  ounce;  neutral 
carbonate  of  potassa,  80  grains ;  water,  1  fluid 
ounce.  Dissolve  the  carbonate  in  the  water; 
to  this  add  the  fluid  extract,  and  let  the  mix- 
ture repose  6  to  12  hours ;  then  strain 
through  muslin,  and  filter,  if  desirable.  The 
alkaline  fluid  extract  of  rhubarb  can  bo  mixed 
with  water  in  any  proportion,  affording  a  per- 
fectly clear  and  transparent  liquid  of  a  deep 
red  color.  Another  alkaline  fluid  extract  of 
rhubarb  will  be  found  in  N"o.  4586. 


4=22 


FLUID   EXTRACTS. 


4592.  Moore's  Fluid  Estract  of  Cimi- 
cifuga    Bacemosa    (Black    Cohosh     or 
Black  Snakeroot.)    Take  of  ciruicifuga,  in 
No.  50  powder,  16  ounces,  troy;  alcohol  95 
per  cent.,  diluted  alcohol,  of  each  a  sufficient 
quantity.    Moisten  the  root  with  the  alcohol, 
pack  closely  in  the  displacer,  and  pour  on  al- 
cohol gradually  until    8    fluid  ounces  have 
passed  through,  which  reserve  in  a  covered 
vessel  to  prevent  evaporation,   then  proceed 
with  dilute    alcohol  until  the   root  is  thor- 
oughly exhausted.     Evaporate  over  a  water- 
bath  until  all  the  alcohol  is  driven  off;  set  it 
aside  to  cool,  that  the  resinous  portion  ex- 
tracted may  be  deposited,  which  separate  and 
add  to  the  alcoholic  portion  first  obtained; 
then  proceed  with  the  evaporation  until  re- 
duced to  8  fluid  ounces,  and  mix  the  two  pro- 
ducts ;  allow  it  to  stand  48  hours,  and  then 
filter.     (See  No.  4575.) 

4593.  Compound  Fluid  Extract  of 
Squills.     This  is  alcoholic,  in  which  3  parts 
alcohol  are  diluted  with  1  part  water.     Take 
of  squills  and  seneka,  each  16  ounces  troy,  re- 
duced to  a  moderately  coarse  powder.    Moist- 
en with  about  12  ounces  of  the  liquid,  and 
pack  firmly  in  a  conical  percolator ;  cover  the 
surface  with  a  cloth  and  pour  on  of  the  same 
menstruum  until  6  pints  have  slowly  passed, 
reserving  carefully  the  first  24  ounces.     Evap- 
orate the  remainder  in  a  water-bath  at  150° 
Fahr.,  until  reduced  to  8  fluid  ounces.     Mix 
it  with  the  reserved  tincture,  and,  after  stand- 
ing, with  occasional  agitation,  for  24  hours, 
filter,  dropping  sufficient  of  the  menstruum 
on  the  filter  to  make  the  whole  measure  2 
pints.    Hive  Syrup   may  now  be    prepared 
from  this  extract  by  taking :  compound  fluid 
extract  of  squills,  4  fluid  ounces ;  tartar  emet- 
ic, 24  grains ;  simple  syrup,  20  fluid  ounces ; 
hot  water,  £  fluid  ounce.     Dissolve  the  tartar 
emetic  in  the  water,  and  mix  with  the  other 
ingredients. 

4594.  Procter's   Fluid    Extract   of 
Hops.     Take  hops  in  coarse  powder,  16  troy 
ounces.    Mix  in  4  ounces  dilute  alcohol ;  pack 
it  in  a  conical  percolator,  cover  the  surface 
with  cloth,  and  add  dilute  alcohol  until  3  pints 
of  tincture  have  slowly  passed,  carefully  re- 
serving the  first  12  ounces.    Evaporate  the 
remainder  of  the  tincture  in  a  water-bath  still 
to  4  fluid  ounces,  mix  it  with  the  reserved 
tincture,  agitate  occasionally  during  24  hours, 
and  filter,  dropping  sufficient  dilute  alcohol 
on  the  filter  to  make  the  measure  of  a  pint. 

4595.  Procter's    Fluid    Extract    of 
Liquorice.      Take  of  Calabria  liquorice,   8 
troy  ounces ;  and  sugar  in  coarse  powder,  10 
troy  ounces.     Bruise  the  liquorice  till  it  is  re- 
duced to  pieces  the  size  of  a  pea,  enclose  it 
in  a  gauze  cloth,  suspend  it  in  a  pint  vessel, 
cover  it  with  cold  water,  let   it    stand  12 
hours  (if  in  summer  in  a  cool  place),  pour  off 
the  dense  solution,  renew  the  water,  and  again 
macerate  and  decant.     Mix  the  two  liquids, 
evaporate  to  12  fluid  ounces,  dissolve  in  it  the 
sugar,  and  again,  evaporate  until  the  measure 
of  1  pint  is  obtained. 

4596.  Grahaxne's  Fluid  Extract  of 
Burdock.     Take  of  burdock,  in  No.  50  pow- 
der,  16  ounces;    dilute    alcohol    (alcohol 
parts,  water  7  parts),  a   sufficient  quantity. 
Dampen  the  powder  with  the  menstruum  and 
pack  it  in  a  suitable  glass  displacer ;  having 


covered  the  surface  with  a  piece  of  muslin  or 
perforated  paper,  pour  on  the  menstruum, 
and  continue  the  percolation  to  exhaustion, 
reserving  li  ounces  of  the  first  runnings,  evap- 
orate the  remainder  over  a  water-bath  until 
reduced  to  9  fluid  ounces,  to  which  add  4 
ounces  sugar  and  dissolve.  Strain,  if  neces- 
sary, and  add  the  reserved  portion.  The  dose 
of  the  extract  is  one  tea-spoonful,  representing 
80  grains  of  the  root.  Burdock  is  one  of  the 
best  vegetable  alteratives,  or  blood  depurents, 
and  it  is  believed  that  this  fluid  extract  might 
be  advantageously  substituted  for  that  of  sar- 
saparilla,  as  a  more  efficient  and  reliable 
alterative,  or  at  least  as  a  valuable  addition 
to  it.  t 

4597.  Fluid  Extract  of  Chamomile. 
Take  of  fresh  chamomile  flowers,  1  pound; 
alcohol  of  specific  gravity  .871.     Moisten  the 
chamomile  in  coarse  powder,  with  the  alcohol, 
then  pack  in  a  percolator,  and  cover  with  the 
alcohol ;  digest  6  days,  and  draw  off  12  oun- 
ces, which  set  aside.     Continue  the  displace- 
ment with  diluted  alcohol,  until  it  is  freely 
exhausted  of  its  bitterness,  which  evaporate 
in  a  vacuum  to  4  fluid  ounces.    Mix  and  fiter. 
1  drachm  of  this  preparation  represents  60 
grains  of  chamomile  flowers,  which  is  usually 
given  in  doses  of  20  grains, 'as  a  tonic,  to  1 
drachm,  as  an  antiperiodic — making  the  dose 
for   like    cases   from   20  minims  to   1  fluid 
drachm. 

4598.  Fluid  Extract  of  Seneka.    The 
formula  for  making  this  extract  will  be  found 
in  No.  4576,  but  seneka  yields  its  active  prin- 
ciples so  easily  and  entirely,  that  an  extract 
of  it  may  be  obtained  of  standard  strength 
without  evaporation.     If  a  convenient  quan- 
tity of  seneka  in  No.   50  powder  be  divided 
into  3  equal  parts,  and  repercolated  with  85 
per  cent,  alcohol,  an  extract  will  be  obtained, 
each  fluid  ounce  of  which  will  represent    a 
troy  ounce  of  the  root. 

4599.  Fluid  Extract  of  Ipecacuanha. 
Moisten  16  troy  ounces  ipecacuanha  in  fine 
powder  with  6  fluid  ounces  alcohol ;  press  it 
firmly  into  a  conical  percolator,  and  displace  3 
pints  of  tincture,  or  until  the  ipecacuanha  is 
exhausted.     Distill  the  tincture  over  a  water- 
bath  until  the  residue  is  of  a  syrupy  consist- 
ence.     Mix  with  1   fluid  ounce  acetic  acid 
and  10  fluid  ounces  water;  boil  until  reduced 
to  -J-  pint,  and  the  resinous  matter  has  separa- 
ted.  Filter  when  cold,  and  add  water  through 
the  filter  to  make  the  filtrate  up  to  -J  pint. 
Mix  with  k  pint  alcohol.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

It  is  affirmed  that  syrup  made  from  extract 
prepared  according  to  the  above  formula  is 
apt  to  become  cloudy.  It  is  proposed  to 
avoid  this  result  by  dividing  ipecacuanha  in  ' 
No.  50  powder  into  3  parts,  and  obtaining 
the  extract  by  repercolation  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  seneka  in  No.  4598. 

4600.  Fluid  Extract  of  Sumach. 
Take  4  pints  76  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  1  pound 
of  the  recently  dried  bark  of  Khus  Glabrum 
(sumach)  in  coarse  powder.  Moisten  the 
powdered  bark  with  sufficient  alcohol  and  let 
it  macerate  for  24  hours,  then  percolate  with 
the  remainder  of  the  alcohol,  returning  tha 
first  that  passes  until  it  runs  clear.  Reserve 
the  first  4  clear  fluid  ounces  of  tincture,  evap- 
orate the  remainder  to  4  fluid  ounces,  and 
set  aside.  Then  percolate  the  residuum  near- 


MEDICINAL   ESSENCES. 


423 


ly  to  exhaustion  with  hot  water,  evaporate 
this  aqueous  solution  to  £  pint,  then  add  to 
it  4  ounces  white  sugar,  evaporate  to  8  fluid 
ounces,  and,  while  warm,  mix  it  with  the  re- 
served 8  ounces  of  tincture  to  make  1  pint  of 
fluid  extract.  ( Am.  Dis.) 

46pl.  Fluid  Extract  of  Scullcap. 
This  is  prepared  from  1  pound  of  the  dried 
leaves  of  scullcap  (scutellaria)  in  precisely 
the  same  manner  as  directed  for  fluid  extract 
of  sumach  in  preceding  receipt.  (Am.  Dis.) 

4602.  Fluid  Extract  of  Life-Root  is 
obtained  from  1  pound  recently  dried  life-root 
(senecio    aureus)    in   the    same    manner  as 
the  sumach  in  No.  4GOO.     (Am.  Dis.) 

4603.  Fluid  Extract  of  Senna   and 
Jalap.     Take  6  pints  76  per  cent,  alcohol. 
Mix  together  1   pound   senna  and  ^  pound 
jalap  root,  both  in  coarse  powder;   moisten 
them  with  some  of  the  alcohol,  and  macerate 
for  24  hours.    Transfer  to  a  percolator  and 
displace  with  the  remainder  of  the  alcohol ; 
reserve  the  first  6  fluid  ounces ;  evaporate  the 
remainder  to  6  fluid  ounces  and  set  also  aside. 
Nearly  exhaust  the  residuum  with   diluted 
alcohol  and  evaporate  it  to  12  fluid  ounces ; 
add  8  ounces  white  sugar;  again  evaporate 
to  12  fluid  ounces,  and,  while  warm,  add  6 
drachms  carbonate  of  potassa,  40  minims  oil 
of  cloves  dissolved  in  li  fluid  drachms  Hoff- 
man's anodyne,  and  the  12  ounces  reserved 
extract,  making  altogether  li  pints  fluid  ex- 
tract.    (Am.  Dis.) 

4604.  Fluid  Extract  of  Blessed  This- 
tle.     Take   16  troy    ounces  blessed  thistle 
(carduus    benedictus)    in    No.    40    powder, 
dampen  it  with  about  6  ounces  dilute  alcohol, 
and  pack  it  in  a  suitable  glass  percolator; 
having  covered  the  surface  with  a  piece  of 
muslin  or  a  layer  of  clean  sand  (which  is  more 
convenient),    displace    with    dilute    alcohol. 
"When  1  pint  of  liquid  shall  have  passed,  put 
it    aside  in  a  warm  place  for  spontaneous 
evaporation  until  reduced  to  10  fluid  ounces. 
Continue  the  percolation  with  diluted  alcohol 
until  2  more  pints  of  liquid  have  passed ;  to 
these  add  6  ounces  sugar  and  reduce  by  evap- 
oration over  a  water-bath  to  6  fluid  ounces, 
adding,  while  still  hot,  the  10  orihces  of  con- 
centrated tincture;   on  cooling,  the  mixture 
becomes  slightly  turbid,  but  by  the  addition 
of  a  few  drops  of  alcohol  the  resinous  matter 
is  redissolved,  making  a  dark  brown  fluid 
extract  which  may  be  filtered  if  necessary. 

4605.  Fluid   Extract   of  Cinchona. 
Take  cinchona  (calisaya)  in  powder,  8  troy 
ounces ;  simple  (officinal)  syrup,  4  fluid  oun- 
ces ;  glycerine,  4  fluid  ounces ;  alcohol,  -con- 
centrated and  diluted,  a  sufficient  quantity. 
Moisten  the  cinchona  with  6  fluid  ounces  of 
diluted  alcohol ;  allow  it  to  stand  in  a  covered 
jar  for  three  hours,  and  then  transfer  it  to  a 
cylindrical  percolator.     Pack  it  firmly,  and 
gradually  pour  upon  it  diluted  alcohol,  until 
12  fluid  ounces  of  the  tincture  have  been 
obtained.     Set  this   aside,  and  continue  the 
percolation  with  dilute  alcohol,  until  the  cin- 
chona is  thoroughly  exhausted.    To  the  last 
percolate  add  the  syrup  and  glycerine,  and 
evaporate  by  means  of  a  water-bath  to  about 
10  flui*d  ounces.      To  this  add  the  reserve 
tincture,  and  continue  the  evaporation  to  14 
fluid  ounces.     Remove  from  the  water-bath, 
and,  when  nearly  cold,  add  sufficient  alcohol  to 


make  the  whole  measure  16  fluid  ounces. 
Each  pint  of  the  fluid  extract  contains  nearly 
2£  ounces  of  alcohol.  (See  No.  4577.) 

4606.  Fluid  Extract  of  Pareira.    Di- 
gest for  24  hours  1  pound  pareira  root,  in 
coarse  powder,  in  1  pint  boiling  distilled  wa- 
ter ;  then  pack  it  in  a  percolator,  and  displace 
1  gallon,  or  until  the  pareira  root  is  exhausted. 
Evaporate  over  a  water-bath  to  13  fluid  oun- 
ces; when  cold  add  3  fluid  ounces  rectified 
spirit,  and  filter  through  paper.     This  is  the 
officinal  formula  of  the  British  Pharmacopoeia, 
consequently  avoirdupois  weight  and  imperial 
measure  are  to  be  used  in  preparing  it.     The 
dose  consists  of  1  to  2  fluid  drachms. 

4607.  Moore's  Fluid  Extract  of  Va- 
nilla.    Take  8  troy  ounces  vanilla,  and  an 
equal  weight  of  crushed  loaf  sugar.    Slit  the 
pods  from  end  to  end  with  a  knife ;  then  take 
them  in  small  bundles,  held  tightly  between 
the  fingers,  and  cut  them  transve'rsely  into 
very  small  pieces.     Of  these,  beat  small  por- 
tions at  a  time  in  an  iron  mortar,  with  a  little 
of  the  sugar,  until  reduced  to  a  damp  powder, 
which  must  be  rubbed  with  the  hand  through 
a  No.  20  sieve;   any  coarse  particles  which 
will  not  pass  through  the  sieve  must  be  re- 
turned to  the  mortar,  and,  with  fresh  portions 
of  vanilla  and  sugar,  again  treated  as  before. 
This  is  to  be  continued  until  the  whole  is  re- 
duced to  a  No.  20  powder.     This  is  then  to 
be  mixed  with  5  pints  of  a  mixture  of  3  parts 
alcohol  and  1  part  water,  and  the  whole  intro- 
duced into  a  1-gallon  stone  jug,  which  must  be 
tightly  corked.     The  jug  is  then  placed  in  a 
water-bath,  resting  upon  folds  of  paper,  and 
the  mixture  digested  for  2  hours  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  from  160°  to  170°  Fahr.     The  upper 
part  of  the  jug  must  be  kept  cool  (to  prevent 
the  undue  expansion  of  vapor),  by  wrapping 
around  it  a  towel  or  other  cloth  kept  saturated 
by  having  cold  water  squeezed  upon  it  from 
a  sponge  every  15  or  20  minutes.    The  jug 
should  also  be  removed  from  the  bath  after 
each  application  of  the  water,  and  its  contents 
well  shaken,  keeping  the  hand  upon  the  cork 
to  prevent  its  expulsion,  and  perhaps  conse- 
quent loss  of  material.    When  the  digestion 
has  been  completed,   and  the  mixture   has 
cooled,  it  is  to  be  expressed  through  muslin. 
Pack  the  residue,  previously  rubbed  with  the 
hands  to  a  uniform  condition,  firmly  in  a  glass 
funnel  prepared  for  percolation,  and  gradually 
pour  upon  it  first  the  expressed  liquid,  and 
when  this  has  all  disappeared  from  the  sur- 
face, continue  the  percolation  with  a  mixture 
of  3  parts  alcohol  and  1  part  water,  until  8 
pints  of  percolate  are  obtained. 


Medicinal  Essences.  The 
usual  rule  for  making  essences,  is  to 
mix  1  ounce  of  the  essential  oil  with  1  quart 
of  alcohol ;  although  much  is  sold  that  con- 
tains only  £  ounce,  and  even  i  ounce  of  the 
oil  to  the  quart.  A  strong  essence  would 
consist  of  1  ounce  of  oil  to  1  pint  of  alcohol ; 
from  10  to  30  drops  of  this  would  make  a 
dose. 

4609.  To  Color  Medicinal  Essences. 
Essence  of  peppermint  is  generally  colored 
with  tincture  of  turmeric ;  essence  of  cinna- 


4:24= 


MEDICINAL    ESSENCES. 


mon  with  tincture  of  red  sandal  wood ;  win- 
tergreen  with  tincture  of  kino.  The  best  way 
of  coloring  an  essence  is  to  steep  for  12  hours 
the  green  leaf  or  other  substance  from  which 
the  oil  is  made,  and  then  filter.  The  coloring 
is  merely  a  matter  of  appearance ;  the  essences 
are  just  as  good  without  it. 

4610.  Essence  of  Peppermint.      Oil 
of  peppermint,  1  ounce;  herb  peppermint,   £ 
ounce;   spirit  of  wine,  1  pint.    Digest  for  a 
week,  or  until  sufficiently  colored.     Palish- 
green,  and  very  strong  of  the  peppermint. 
Essence  of  peppermint  is  not  conceived  to  be 
good  by  the  ignorant  unless  it  has  a  pale  tint 
of  green,  which  they  presume  is  a  proof  of  its 
being  genuine.    The  most  harmless  way  is  to 
steep  a  little  of  the  green  peppermint  in  the 
spirit  for  this  purpose  (as  above),  or  if  this  is 
not  at  hand,  a  little  parsley  will  do  equally  as 
well,  and  in  fact  improve  the  flavor. 

4611.  Essence    of    Camphor,    also 
called  Liquor  of  Camphor;  Concentra- 
ted  Tincture   of  Camphor;    Camphor- 
Drops.     Dissolve  4£  drachms  (avoirdupois) 
clear  camphor,  in  1    imperial  pint  rectified 
spirit.    This  forms  the  ordinary  essence  of 
camphor  and  the  best  spirit  of  camphor  of  the 
stores.     Added  to  15  times  its  bulk  of  pure 
cold  water,  it  forms  (by  agitation)  a  transpa- 
rent solution  exactly  resembling  the  camphor- 
julep,  camphor-water,    or    camphor-mixture 
used  in  medicine,  and  which,  either  alone  or 
with  a  little  more  water,  forms  an  excellent 
wash  for  the  teeth  and  mouth,  as  noticed  else- 
where.   (See  No.  1335.) 

Dissolve  1  avoirdupois  ounce  camphor  in  10 
ounces  rectified  spirit.  This  forms  the  Con- 
centrated Essence  of  Camphor  of  the  druggists. 
10  or  12  drops  added  to  1  fluid  ounce  of  pure 
cold  water  form  the  transparent  camphor- 
julep  or  camphor-water  before  noticed. 

4612.  Essence  of  Coltsfoot.    Balsam 
of  tolu,  1  ounce  ;  compound  tincture  of  ben- 
zoin and  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  of  each  2 
ounces ;  dissolve. 

4813.  Essence  of  Cliamomile.  Es- 
sential oil  of  chamomile,  h  ounce  to  1  ounce  ; 
spirit  of  wine,  1  pint;  mix.  "White.  Or: 
Gentian  root,  sliced  or  bruised,  1  pound ;  dried 
orange  peel,  £  pound ;  spirit  of  wine,  1  gallon; 
essential  oil  of  chamomile,  5  ounces ;  macerate 
a  week.  Slightly  colored.  Some  persons 
use  k  pound  of  quassia  wood,  instead  of  the 
gentian  and  orange  peel.  Both  the  above  are 
stomachic  and  tonic. 

4614.  Essence  of  Spearmint.  1 
ounce  of  essential  oil  to  1  pint  of  spirit  of 
wine  tinged  green.  Process,  use,  and  dose, 
the  same  as  essence  of  peppermint.  (See 
No.  4G10.) 

4615.  Bitter  Essence.     Wormwood,  4 
parts;  gentian  root,  bitter  orange  peel,  and 
messed  thistle,   of  each  1  part;   alcohol,  45 
parts;  digest  for  a  week.    Dose,  h  drachm  to 
2  drachms,  combined  with  mixtures.     Tonic 
and  stomachic. 

4616.  Essence  of  Beef.    Chop  fine  1 
pound  lean  beef,  place  it  with  J  pint  of  water 
in  a  bottle  which  they  will  only  half  fill,  and 
agitate  violently  for  half  an  hour ;  then  throw 
the  whole  on  a  sieve,  and  receive  the  liquid 
in  a  jug.    Next,  boil  the  undissolved  portion 
in  1  pint  of  water  for  20  minutes ;  strain,  and 
mix  the  decoction  with  the  cold  infusion; 


evaporate  the  liquid  to  the  consistence  of 
thin  syrup,  adding  spice,  salt,  &c.,  to  suit  the 
taste,  and  pour  the  essence,  while  boiling  hot, 
into  bottles  (see  next  receipt),  or  jars,  or  (still 
better)  tin  cans,  which  must  be  closed  up  air- 
tight, and  kept  in  a  cool  place.  (See  No.  1634.) 

4617.  To   Fill   Glass   Bottles    with 
Boiling  Liquid.     If  boiling  liquid  be  poured 
into  cold  bottles,  there  is  a  groat  risk  of  the 
bottle  breaking,  involving  probably  the  loss 
of  the  contents.    To  prevent  this,'stand  the 
bottles  in  a  wide  pan  with  sufficient  cool 
water  to  reach  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  bot- 
tles ;  pour  sufficient  water  in  each  bottle  to 
prevent  it  floating,  and  then  let  the  water  in 
the  pan  be  brought  gradually  to  a  boil.    As 
each  bottle  is  to  be  filled,  take  it  out  of  the 
pan,  empty  the  water  out  of  it,  and  fill  it  im- 
mediately. 

4618.  Ellis's  Essence  of  Beef.     Take 
lean  beef,  sliced  thin,  sufficient  to  fill  the  body 
of  a  porter  bottle;  cork  it  loosely,  and  place  it 
in  a  pot  of  cold  water,  attaching  the  neck  by 
means  of  a  string  to  the  handle  of  the  pot ; 
boil  for  1|  or  2  hours,  then  decant  the  liquid 
and  skim  it.   This  can  be  seasoned  and  packed 
as  in  receipt  No.  4616. 

4619.  Concentrated  Essence  of  Gin- 
ger.   Unbleached,  well-bruised  Jamaica  gin- 
ger, 4  ounces;  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  1  pint; 
digest  for  2  weeks,  press  and  filter. 

4620.  Oxley's  Concentrated  Essence 
of  Jamaica  Ginger.  The  same  as  the  preced- 
ing, with  the  addition  of  a  very  small  quantity 
of  essence  of  cayenne. 

4621.  Very  Strong  Concentrated.  Es- 
sence  of    Ginger.       Bruised    unbleached 
Jamaica  ginger,  12  pounds ;  rectified  spirit  of 
wine, '2k  gallons;  digest  14  days,  press,  strain, 
and  reduce  the  essence  by  distillation  to  1 
gallon ;    cool  and  filter.      This   produces    a 
most  beautiful  article.    It  is  at  once  inexpen- 
sive and  easily  performed,  as  the  spirit  distill- 
ed off  may  be  used  with  advantage  for  pre- 
paring the  common  tincture  of  ginger,  and 
several  other  articles;  2  ounces  of  this  essence 
are  regarded  as  equivalent  to  3  ounces  of  the 
finest  ginger.    A  single  drop  swallowed  will 
almost  produce  suffocation. 

4622.  Concentrated  Essence  of  Gin- 
ger.    Ginger  and  animal  charcoal,  both  in 
coarse  powder,  equal  parts ;  add  enough  rec- 
tified  spirits  of  wine    to    perfectly  moisten 
them,  and  after  24  hours  put  the  mass  into  a 
percolator,  return  the  first  runnings  2  or  3 
times,  then  change  the  receiver,  and  pour  on 
spirit  gradually  as  required,  and  at  intervals, 
until  as  much  essence  is  obtained  as  there  was 
ginger  employed.     Quality  excellent.     The 
mass    remaining  in  the  percolator  may  be 
treated  with  fresh  spirit  until  exhausted,  and 
the  tincture  so  obtained  may  be  advantage- 
ously employed,  instead  of  spirit,  in  making 
more  essence  with  fresh  ginger.   The  last  por- 
tion of  spirit  in  the  mass  may  be  obtained  by 
adding  a  little  water.    (See  Percolation,  No. 
41.) 

4623.  Concentrated  Essence  of  Gua- 
iacum.     Guaiacurn  shavings,  from  which  the 
dust  has  been  sifted,  3  cwt.     Exhaust  the 
wood  by  boiling  with  water,  as  in  preparing 
an  extract,  using  as  little  of  that  fluid  as  is 
absolutely  necessary ;  evaporate  to  exactly 
If  gallons ;  let  it  stand  until  cold,  stirring  it 


MEDICATED    SYEUPS. 


4:25 


all  the  time  to  prevent  the  deposit  of  resinous 
matter;  put  the  whole  into  a  bottle;  add 
spirit  of  wine,  5  pints ;  agitate  repeatedly  for 
a  week,  then  allow  it  to  settle  for  7  or  8  days, 
and  decant  the  clear  into  another  bottle. 
This  preparation  is  frequently  substituted  for 
guaiacum  shavings  in  the  preparation  of  com- 
pound decoction  of  sarsaparilla.  1  pint  of 
this  essence  is  considered  equivalent  to  19 
pounds  of  guaiacum  in  substance. 

4624.  Essence  of  Quinine.  Take  dilute 
sulphate  of  quinine,  1  drachm  ;  rectified  spirit, 
1  fluid  ounce;  mix,  add  of  dilute  sulphuric 
acid  (specific  gravity  1.087  to  1.090),  i  fluid 
drachm  (or  less,  on  no  account  more),  and 
agitate  it  thoroughly  until  solution  is  com- 
plete. A  few  drops  added  to  water  form  an 
excellent  wash  for  foul,  spongy,  and  tender 
gums,  loose  teeth,  &c. ;  also  for  weak  hair. 


4629.  Easton's  Syrup  of  Phosphate 
of  Iron,  Quinine,  and  Strychnine.    Take 
of  phosphate  of  iron,  192  grains;  phosphate 
of  quinia,  or  quinia  prepared  as  directed  in  No. 
46'27,   96   grains;    strychnia  (in  crystals),   3 
grains ;  water,  7  fluid  drachms ;  syrupy  phos- 
phoric   acid   (specific    gravity    1.5),  9    fluid 
drachms;   syrup,  10   fluid  ounces.     Eub  the 
phosphate  of  iron  with  5  drachms  of  the  wa- 
ter in  a  glass  mortar,  dissolve  the  strychnia 
and  quinia  in  the  acid,  previously  mixed  with 
the  remaining  2  drachms  of  water ;  mix  and 
filter  into  the  syrup.     Each  fluid  drachm  con- 
tains 2  grains  of  phosphate  of  iron,  1  grain  of 
phosphate  of  quinine,  and  ^  part  of  a  grain 
of  strychnine. 

In  "this  formula  avoirdupois   weight    and 
Imperial  measure  are  adopted. 

4630.  Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron 
and  Strychnine  may  be  prepared  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  last,  omitting  the  phosphate  of 
quinine. 

4631.  Phosphate  of  Iron.     Dissolve  3 
ounces  sulphate  of  iron  in  2  pints  boiling  dis- 
tilled water,  dissolve  also  1  ounce  acetate  of 
soda  and  2£  ounces    phosphate  of  soda  in 
another  2  pints  boiling  distilled  water.      Mix 
the  2  solutions,  filter  the  precipitate  through 
muslin,  wash  it  with  hot  distilled  water  till 
the  washings  no  longer  form  a  precipitate 
with  chloride  of  barium.      Dry  at  a  heat  not 
exceeding  120°  Fahr.     (Br.  Ph). 

4632.  Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron. 
Phosphate  of  iron,  96  grains ;   water,  9   fluid 

s ;    syrupy  phosphoric   acid    (specific  i  drachms ;    syrupy   phosphoric   acid    (specific 
1.5),  5  fluid  drachms;  syrup,  10  fluid   gravity  1.5),  7  fluid  drachms;  syrup,  10  fluid 

ounces.  Kub  the  phosphate  of  iron  with  the 
water  in  a  glass  mortar,  add  the  phosphoric 
acid,  and  filter  the  mixture  into  the  syrup. 


Medicated  Syrups. 
is  a  concentrated  solution  o 


Syrup 

is  a  concentrated  "'solution  of  sugar  in 

watery  fluids.  If  made  with  pure  water,  it  is 
termed  syrup  or  simple  syrup.  "Where  the 
water  contains  one  or  more  medicinal  agents, 
it  is  called  medicated  syrup.  Full  informa- 
tion as  to  preparation,  &c.,  will  be  found  in 
Jfos.  1356,  <fcc. 

4626.     Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Zinc. 
Phosphate  of  zinc,  192  grains ;  water,  11  fluid 


drachms 

gravity 

ounces.     Kub  the  phosphate  with  the  water, 

add  the  acid,  and  filter  into  the  syrup.     Each 

fluid  drachm  contains  2  grains  of  zinc  phos- 


phate and  about  18  minims  of  dilute  phos- 
phoric acid.  In  this  formula,  avoirdupois 
weight  and  Imperial  measure  are  adopted. 

4627.  Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Quinine. 
Take  .of  phosphate  of  quinia,  96  grains ;  wa- 
ter, 13 i  fluid  drachms;  syrupy  phosphoric 
acid  (specific  gravity  1.5),  24  fluid  drachms; 
syrup,  10  fluid  drachms.  Mix  the  acid  with 
the  water,  add  the  quinia.  and  filter  into  the 
syrup.  Each  fluid  drachm  contains  1  grain 
of  *  phosphate  of  quinine  and  acid  equal  to 
about  10  minims  of  the  dilute  phosphoric 
acid. 

The  same  weight  of  quinia,  prepared  by 
precipitating  an  acidulated  solution  of  the 
disulphate  by  solution  of  ammonia,  collecting, 
washing,  and  drying  at  100°  Fahr.,  may  be 
used,  in  the  absence  of  the  phosphate.  In 
this  formula  avoirdupois  weight  and  Imperial 
measure  are  intended. 


As  thus  prepared,  it  contains  the  same  pro- 
portion of  iron,  about  2  minims  less  of  the 
dilute  acid  (25  instead  of  27),  and  rather  more 
sugar  than  when  prepared  according  to  the 
British  Pharmacopeia.  The  phosphate  of 
iron  is  made  by  the  Br.  Ph.  process,  and  dried 
at  a  temperature  not  exceeding  100°  Fahr. 
The  specimens  found  in  the  ordinary  course 
of  trade  are  not  readily  soluble  in  the  acid. 
This  want  of  solubility  is  believed  to  be  due 
to  the  length  of  time  they  have  been  kept 
before  sale,  as  the  best  results  have  been  ob- 
tained with  the  phosphate  only  a  few  days 
old.  In  this  formula  avoirdupois  weight  and 
Imperial  measure  are  adopted. 

4633.  Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Man- 
ganese may  be  prepared  in  a  similar  man- 
ner with  the  following  ingredients :  Phos- 
phate of  manganese,  96  grains  ;  water,  9  fluid 
drachms;  syrupy  phosphoric  acid  (specific 


4628.     Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron  gravity  1.5),  9  fluid  drachms;  syrup,  10  fluid 


with  Quinine.  Take  of  phosphate  of  iron 
192  grains ;  phosphate  of  quinia,  96  grains ; 
water,  7  fluid  drachms;  syrupy  phosphoric 
acid  (specific  gravity  1.5),  9  fluid  drachms; 
syrup,  10  fluid  ounces.  Rub  the  powders 
with  the  water,  add  the  acid,  and  filter  into 
the  syrup.  Each  fluid  drachm  contains  2 
grains' of  phosphate  of  iron  and  1  grain  of 
phosphate  of  quinine.  In  the  absence  of  the 
phosphate  of  quinia,  the  same  weight  of 
quinia  may  be  prepared  as  directed  in  No. 
4627. 

In  this  formula    avoirdupois  weight   and 
Imperial  measure  are  adopted. 


ounces.  Strength,  1  grain  phosphate  of  man- 
ganese, and  acid  equal  to  about  25  minims  of 
the  dilute  phosphoric  acid  in  each  fluid 
drachm.  The  phosphate  of  manganese  is 
made  in  the  same  manner  as  the  phosphate 
of  iron,  substituting  sulphate  of  manganese 
for  the  sulphate  of  iron.  In  this  formula 
avoirdupois  weight  and  Imperial  measure  are 
intended. 

4634.  Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron 
with  Manganese.  Phosphate  of  iron,  72 
grains ;  phosphate  of  manganese,  48  grains ; 
water,  8  fluid  drachms;  syrupy  phosphoric 
acid,  8  fluid  drachms ;  syrup,  10  fluid  ounces. 


MEDICATED    SYKUPS. 


Rub  the  powders  with  the  water,  add  the  acid, 
and  filter  into  the  syrup.  Each  fluid  drachm 
contains  f  grain  phosphate  of  iron,  -J-  grain 
phosphate  of  manganese,  and  acid  equal  to 
about  30  minims  of  the  dilute  phosphoric  acid, 
B.  Ph.  Avoirdupois  weight  and  Imperial 
measure  are  understood  in  the  above  formula. 

4635.  Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron 
and  Lime.     Take  of  phosphate  of  iron,  96 
grains;  phosphate  of  lime,  192  grains  ;  water, 
8    fluid  drachms;    syrupy  phosphoric   acid, 
(specific  gravity  1.5),  8  fluid  drachms ;  syrup, 
10  fluid  ounces.     Mix  the  powders  with  the 
water  in  a  glass  mortar,  add  the  acid,  and  filter 
into  the  syrup.     Each  fluid  drachm  contains 
1  grain  of  phosphate  of  iron,  2  grains  of  phos- 
phate of  lime,  and  an  amount  of  acid  equal  to 
about  30  minims  of  the  dilute  phosphoric  acid, 
B.  Ph.    The  phosphate  of  lime  is  made  by 
precipitation  from  solutions  of  chloride  of  cal- 
cium and  phosphate  of  soda,   and  dried  at 
100°  Fahr.,  and  should  not  be  kept  too  long 
before    use.      In    this    formula    avoirdupois 
weight  and  Imperial  measure  are  adopted. 

4636.  Dufand's  Syrup  of  Phosphate 
of  Lime.     Take  of  precipitated  phosphate  of 
lime,  128  grains ;  glacial  phosphoric  acid,  240 
grains;  sugar,  in  coarse  powder,  7i  ounces; 
distilled  water,  4  fluid  ounces ;    essence  of 
lemon,  12  drops.    Mix  the  phosphate  of  lime 
with  the  water  in  a  porcelain  capsule,  over  a 
spirit  or  gas  lamp,  or  in  a  sand-bath;  add 
gradually  the  phosphoric  acid  until  the  whole 
of  the  phosphate  of  lime  is  dissolved.   To  this 
solution  add  sufficient  water  to  compensate 
for  the  evaporation,  then  dissolve  the  sugar 
by  a  gentle  heat,  and,  when  perfectly  cold, 
add  the  essence  of  lemon.      The  syrup  ol 
phosphate  of  lime,  thus  prepared,  is  colorless, 
transparent,  of  an  acid  taste,  and  contains 
two  grains  of  the  phosphate  of  lime,    anc 
nearly  four  grains  of  phosphoric  acid  to  each 
tea-spoonful.    "WTien  diluted  it  forms  a  phos- 
phoric lemonade,  not  unpleasant  to  the  taste. 
Dose,  a  tea-spoonful. 

4637.  Wiegand's  Syrup  of  Phos- 
phate of  Lime.  Dissolve  1  ounce  precipita- 
ted phosphate  of  lime  in  1  fluid  ounce  water 
by  means  of  4  fluid  drachms  muriatic  acid 
filter,  and  add  6£  fluid  ounces  water;  then 
add  12  fluid  ounces  sugar,  and  strain.  Dose 
a  tea-spoonful.  This  preparation  is  not  so 
acid  as  Durand's,  which  is  thought  to  be  an 
advantage  in  some  cases. 

4638.     Syrup  of  Rhubarb.     The  offici 
nal  method  of  preparing  the  fluid  extract  o 
rhubarb  employed    for    the    syrnp    involves 
much  concentration  by  evaporation,  and  re 
suits  in  an  unsightly  preparation,  and  liabl< 
to  an  objectional  resinous  precipitation.    Bi 
a  modified  process  a  fluid  extract  of  rhubarb 
equal  to  the  officinal  in  strength,  is  first  ob 
tained  by  repercolating  rhubarb,  in  moderate 
ly  fine  powder,  with  a  mixture  of  3  parti 
officinal    alcohol    and  1    part  water.      Thi: 
menstruum    exhausts    rhubarb     completelj 
with  the    greatest  facility.      To    make    th 
syrup,  take  of  this  fluid  extract,  3  fluid  oun 
ces ;  sugar,  28  troy  ounces ;  water,  a  sufficien 
quantity.    Add  the  fluid  extract  to  12  fluic 
ounces  of  water,  filter,  make  up  the  filtrate  to 
the    measure    of  a   pint   by    adding    water 
through  the  filter,  and  dissolve  in  it  the  sugar 
with  the  aid  of  a  gentle  heat,   and   strain 


hrough  muslin.  The  result  is  splendid.  An 
jqual  product  is  obtained  by  mixing  the  offi- 
iinal  fluid  extract  with  water,  letting  it  re- 
ose  some  hours,  filtering,  and  then  complet- 
ng  as  above. 

4639.  Syrup  of  Rhubarb  and  Sen- 
la.       Digest    for    14    days  6  ounces    each 
)ruised  rhubarb  root  and  senna  leaves,  and 
.i  ounces  cardamom  seeds,  in  6  pints  dilute 

alcohol;  filter,  and  evaporate  to  3  pints. 
Mix  12  ounces  of  this  with  syrup  made  of  2 
)ounds  sugar  evaporated  to  1  k  pints,  and  mix 
vhile  hot.  This  produces  a  syrup  of  30° 
Baume",  which  will  not  ferment. 

4640.  Stewart's    Simple    Syrup    of 
Rhubarb.     Macerate  6  ounces  bruised  rhu- 
barb in  4  ounces  dilute   alcohol ;  press  and 
filter,  and  evaporate  to  2  pints.    Mix  8  fluid 
ounces  of  this  tincture  with  28  fluid  ounces 

iimple  syrup. 

4641.  Procter's  Compound  Syrup  of 
Hypophosphites.     Take  of  hypophosphite 
of  lime,  256  grains ;  hyposulphite  of  soda,  192 
strains;  hyposulphite  of  potassa,  128  grains ; 
hyposulphate  ot  iron  (recently  precipitated), 
96  grains  ;  white  sugar,  9  ounces  ;  extract  of 
vanilla,  k  ounce.    Dissolve  the  salts  of  lime, 
soda,  and  potassa,  in  six  ounces  of  water ;  put 
the  iron  salt  in  a  mortar  and  gradually  add  a 
solution  of  hypophosphorus  acid  till  it  is  dis- 
solved.    To  this  add  the  solution  of  the  other 
salts,  after  it  has  been  rendered  slightly  acid- 
ulous with  the  same  acid,  and  then  water,  till 
the  whole  measures  12  fluid  ounces.    Dissolve 
in  this  the  sugar,  with  heat,  and  flavor  with 
the  vanilla.    "Without  flavoring,  this  syrwp  is 
not  unpleasant. 

4642.  Hypophosphite  of  Iron.     Hy- 
pophosphite  of   iron  is   obtained   when   128 
grains  of  hypophosphite  of  soda,  dissolved  in 
2  ounces  of  water,  are  decomposed  with  a 
slight   excess   of  solution  of  persulphate   of 
iron,  and  the  white  precipitate  well  washed 
on  a  filter  with  water. 

4643.  Parrish's  Compound  Syrup  of 
Hypophosphites.     Take  of  hypophosphite 
of  lime,  1^  ounces ;  hypophosphite  of  soda,  £ 
ounce ;  hypophosphito  of  potassa,  i   ounce ; 
cane   sugar,    1   pound,  troy;    hot   water,  20 
fluid   ounces;   orange   water,  1   fluid   ounce. 
Make  a  solution  of  the  mixed  salts  in  the  hot 
water,  filter  through  paper,  dissolve  the  sugar 
in  the  solution  by  the  aid  of  heat;  strain,  and 
add  the  orange-flower  water.     Dose,  a  tea- 
spoonful,  containing  nearly  five  grains  of  the 
mixed  salts. 

4644.  Compound  Syrup  of  Phosphate 
of  Iron.     Dissolve  10  drachms  protosulphate 
of  iron  in  2  fluid  ounces  boiling  water;  also 
dissolve  12  drachms  phosphate  of  soda  in  4 
fluid  ounces  boiling  water  ;  mix  the  solutions 
and  wash  the  precipitated,  phosphate  of  iron 
till  the  washings  are  tasteless.     Dissolve  12 
drachms  phosphate  of  lime  in  4  fluid  ounces 
boiling  water  with  sufficient  muriatic  acid  to 
make  a  clear    solution,   precipitate   it  with 
water  of  ammonia,  and  wash  the  precipitate. 
To  these  two  precipitates  add  20  drachms 
glacial  phosphoric  acid  dissolved  in  water; 
when  clear  add  2  scruples  carbonate  of  soda, 
and  1  drachm  carbonate  of  potassa.     Next 
add  sufficient  muriatic  acid  to  dissolve  the 
precipitate ;   and  lastly  2  drachms  powdered 
cochineal  mixed  with  3  pounds  (troy)  sugar  ; 


MEDICATED    SYRUPS. 


4,27 


apply  heat,  and,  when  the  syrup  is  formed, 
strain.  It  is  a  question  whether  a  simple 
syrup  of  phosphate  of  iron  is  not  equally  effi- 
cacious with  Professor  Parrish's  more  compli- 
cated preparation  given  above,  and  known  as 
Parrish's  Chemical  Food.  Each  tea-spoonful 
contains  1  grain  phosphate  of  iron,  2i  grains 
phosphate  of  lime,  with  smaller  quantities 
of  the  alkaline  phosphates,  all  in  perfect  so- 
lution. 

4645.  Chemical  Food.      This  is  pre- 
pared by  the  same  formula  as  Professor  Par- 
rish's (see   No.  4644),  omitting  the  cochineal 
and  muriatic  acid,  and  with  this  modification 
was  adopted,  as  well  as  the  two  following 
receipts,  by  the  Newark  Pharmaceutical  As- 
sociation. 

4646.  Compound    Syrup   of  Hypo- 
phosphites  and  Iron.     Dissolve  256  grains 
each  of  the  hypophosphites  of  soda,  lime,  and 
potassa,   and    126    grains  hypophosphite    of 
iron,    in  12  ounces  water,  by  means  of  a 
water-bath.     Filter,  and  add  sufficient  water 
to  make  up   for  the .  evaporation.    Add   18 
ounces  sugar  by  gentle  heat,  to  make  21  fluid 
ounces  syrup.     Each  fluid  ounce  contains  12 
grains  each  of  the  hypophosphites  of  soda, 
lime,  and  potassa,  and  6  grains  hypophosphite 
of  iron.     (Newark  P.  A.) 

4647.  Compound  Syrup    of  Hypo- 
phosphites.     Prepared  by  the  same  formula 
as   the   last,    omitting  the    iron.       (Newark 
P.  A.) 

4648.  Aitken's  Syrup  of  Iron,  Quinia, 
and  Strychnia.     Dissolve  5  drachms  sul- 
phate of  iron  in  1  ounce  of  boiling  water,  and 
1  ounce  phosphate  of  soda  in  2  ounces  of  the 
same.     Mix  the  solutions  and  wash  the  pre- 
cipitates on  strainers  until  the  washings  are 
tasteless ;    dissolve  192    grains    sulphate    of 
quinia  with  sufficient  sulphuric  acid  in  2  oun- 
ces of  water,  precipitate  the  clear  solution  by 
a  very  slight  excess  of  water  of  ammonia,  col- 
lect and  carefully  wash   it.    Dissolve  both 
precipitates,  and  also  6  grains  strychnia,  in  14 
ounces  dilute  phosphoric  acid,  then  add  14 
ounces  white  sugar,  and  dissolve  the  whole 
without  heat.     This  syrup  contains  about  one 
grain    of   phosphate    of   strychnia   in    each 
drachm.     The  dose  might  therefore  be  about 
a  tea-spoonful  3  times  a  day.    It  is  perfectly 
miscible  with  water,  has  a   strongly  styptic 
and  chalybeate  taste,  and  an  after-taste  of 
quinia.     It  is  employed  mainly  as  a  prepara- 
tive to  the  use  of  cod-liver  oil,  and  in  certain 
cases  as  a  concomitant  to  this  food  substitute 
in  scrofulous  diseases,  in  cases  of  delicate 
children,  with  equal  parts  of  the  phosphatic 
syrup  known  as  chemical  food. 

4649.  Santonate  of  Soda.    Put  into  a 
flask,  2  ounces  santoninic  acid,  4  fluid  ounces 
pure  caustic  soda  lye,  and  12  fluid  ounces  dis- 
tilled water.     Heat  the  flask  in  a  sand-bath 
or  over  a  stove  to  70°  or  80°  Fahr.,  until  the 
santonine  solution  is  complete ;  which  usually 
requires    about   half  an  hour;  then  remove 
from  the  fire,  and,  when  cold,  it  is  convenient- 
ly evaporated. 

4650.  Syrup  of  Santonate  of  Soda. 
Roil  18  fluid  ounces  syrup  until  it  marks  32° 
Baura6 ;  let  it  cool  a  few  minutes,  then  add 
30  grains    santonate  of  soda  dissolved  in  1 
ounce    distilled  water.    You  obtain  18  fluid 
ounces  of  a  transparent  syrup,  without  a  bit- 


ter taste,  of  35°  when  cold.  Each  fluid 
ounce  contains  one  grain  of  santonine.  This 
syrup  is  an  excellent  vermifuge. 

4651.  Syrup  of  Ipecacuanha.    Mix  2 
fluid  ounces  officinal  fluid  extract  of  ipecacu- 
anha with  30 fluid  ounces  syrup.    ( U.  S.  Pli}. 
This  syrup  is  said  to  become  cloudy  occasion- 
ally, and  the  following  preparation  claims  to 
be  free  from  this  objection. 

Moisten  2  troy  ounces  ipecacuanha  with  1 
fluid  ounce  diluted  alcohol,  and  let  it  stand 
for  24  hours.  Then  transfer  it  to  a  conical 
percolator,  and  gradually  pour  upon  it  diluted 
alcohol  until  1  pint  of  tincture  has  passed. 
Evaporate  this  by  means  of  a  water-bath  to 
6  fluid  ounces,  add  10  fluid  ounces  warm  wa- 
ter, and,  having  rubbed  it  thoroughly  with  45 
grains  carbonate  of  magnesia,  in  a  mortar, 
filter,  and  add  sufficient  warm  water  through 
the  filter  to  make  the  filtrate  measure  1  pint ; 
then  add  29  troy  ounces  sugar,  and  dissolve  it 
with  the  aid  of  a  gentle  heat,  and,  having 
strained  the  hot  syrup,  add  sufficient  warm 
water,  through  the  strainer,  to  make  it  mea- 
sure 2  pints  when  cold. 

The  same  advantages  are  claimed  for  a 
syrup  made  in  the  following  manner : — To  2 
fluid  ounces  of  the  fluid  extract  made  by  re- 
percolation,  add  2  fluid  ounces  water  and 
heat  the  mixture  to  the  boiling  point ;  then 
add  12  fluid  ounces  water,  filter,  and  pour 
sufficient  water  through  the  filter  to  make  the 
liquid  measure  1  pint ;  in  this  dissolve  28  troy 
ounces  sugar  with  the  aid  of  heat,  and  strain 
through  muslin.  Both  preparations  will  be 
perfectly  clear,  beautiful,  and  identical  in 
strength  and  appearance,  the  latter  possessing 
the  natural  odor  and  taste  of  ipecacuanha  in 
an  eminent  degree. 

4652.  Compound  Syrup  of  Squills. 
Take  4  troy  ounces  squill  in  N"o.  30  powder, 
and  the  same  of  seneka  in  N~o.  50  powder, 
mix  them  together,  moisten  with  \  pint  di- 
luted alcohol,  and  allow  it  to  stand  for  an 
hour.    Then  transfer  it  to  a  conical  percola- 
tor and  pour  diluted  alcohol  upon  it  until  3 
pints  of  tincture  have  passed.     Boil  this  for 
a  few  minutes,  evaporate  it  by  means  of  a  wa- 
ter-bath to  1  pint,  add  6  fluid  ounces  of  boil- 
ing water,  rub  the  liquid  with  1  troy  ounce 
carbonate  of  mangnesia  in  a  mortar  till  thor- 
oughly mixed,  filter,  and.  add  through  the  fil- 
ter sufficient  warm  water  to  make  the  filtrate 
measure  22  fluid  ounces.     Dissolve  42  troy 
ounces    sugar  in    the    filtered    liquid,    and, 
having  heated  the  solution  to    the  boiling 
point,  strain  it  while  hot.     Then  dissolve  48 
grains  tartrate  of  antimony  and  potassa  in  the 
solution  while  still  hot,   aud  add  sufficient 
boiling  water,  through  the  strainer,  to  make 
it  measure  3  pints  when  cold.     Lastly,  mix 
the  whole  thoroughly  together.     The  above 
process  is  similar  to  that  laid  down  in  the  U. 
S.  Ph.,  except  in  the  addition  of  magnesia 
before  filtration,  this  being  considered  an  im- 
provement, as  the  gummy  nature  of  the  squills 
renders  filtration  unsatisfactory  without  it. 

This  syrup  may  also  be  prepared  from  the 
fluid  extracts  of  squill  and  of  seneka,  by  mix- 
ing 4  fluid  ounces  of  each,  evaporating  the 
mixture  by  means  of  a  sand-bath  to  a  syrupy 
consistence ;  triturating  this  with  the  carbonate 
of  magnesia,  and  proceeding  precisely  as  in 
the  above  formula. 


4,28 


MEDICATED    SYKUPS. 


4653.  Syrup  of  Ether.     The  combina- 
tion of  sulphuric  ether  with  simple  syrup,  as 
usually    prepared,    is    very    unsatisfactory, 
whether  for  use  alone,  or  mixed  with  other 
ingredients;  a  portion  of  the  ether  always 
separates  and  floats  on  the  surface  of  the  mix- 
ture, bringing  with  it  also  somo  impurities  of 
the  syrup.     In  pouring  out  a  portion  from 
the  bottle  containing  it,  the  floating  layer  of 
ether  and  scum  will  come  first,  unless  these 
be  again  mixed  in  by  agitating  the  bottle. 
The  following    improvement  is   taken  from 
the  Paris  Codex  :  Provide  a  bottle  which  has 
a  small  neck  inserted  in  the  side  close  to  the 
bottom  (see  illustration);  this,  as  well  as  the 
upper    neck,     should 

have  a  closely-fitting 

cork.  The  bottle  must 

be  of  a  size  to  contain 

1   pint   simple    syrup 

and  1  ounce  sulphuric 

ether.    Insert  these  in 

it  and  shake  well  3  or 

4  times  a  day  for  6 

days;   after  which,  if 

allowed  to  repose,   a 

thin  film  of  ether  will 

rise  and  float  on  the 

surface  of  the  syrup, 

separated  from  it  by  a 

layer  of  scum.     The 

syrup,  which  is  now  saturated  with  ether,  can 

be  drawn  through  the  lower  neck,  as  required; 

it  will  be  perfectly  free  from  impurity,  and 

no    further    separation    of   ether   will    take 

place. 

4654.  Compound    Syrup    of    Black 
Cohosh.     Macerate  2  ounces  black  cohosh 
(black  snake-root),  1  ounce  seneka  root,  i 
ounce  liquorice  root,  and  •£  ounce  ipecacuanha 
root   in  dilute  alcohol  for  24  hours ;    then 
transfer  to  a  percolator  and  run  through  two 
pints;  evaporate  the  excess  of  alcohol  by  a 
water-bath,  and  convert  into  a  syrup  with 
sufficient  quantity  of  sugar;  lastly,  treat  2 
ounces  wild  cherry  bark  with  half  a  pint 
of  cold  water,  which  add  to  the  syrup  pre- 
viously cooled. 

4655.  Compound    Syrup  of  Sarsa- 
parilla.    Reduce  the  following  to  moderately 
coarse    powder,    adopting    the    troy    ounce 
throughout :  24  ounces  sarsaparilla,  3  ounces 
guaiacum  wood,  2  ounces    each  pale  rose, 
senna,  and  liquorice  root.    Mix  with  3  pints 
diluted  alcohol,   and  allow  the  mixture   to 
stand  for  24  hours.     Transfer  to  a  cylindrical 
percolator,  and  displace  10  pints  with  diluted 
alcohol.      Evaporate  by  a  water-bath  to  4 
pints ;    filter,   and  add    96    ounces    coarsely 
powdered  sugar  by  the  aid  of  heat,  and  strain 
while  hot.    Lastly  take  5  minims  each  of  the 
oils  of  sassafras  and  anise ;  and  3  minims  oil 
of  gaultheria ;  rub  these  oils  with  a  small 
portion    of    the    solution,    and    mix    them 
thoroughly  with  the  remainder.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4656.  Scovill's  Compound  Syrup  of 
Sarsaparilla.      Take  8  ounces  each  sarsa- 
parilla, burdock  root  and  yellow  dock;  G  oun- 
ces stillingia  root  (queen's  root),  2  ounces 
turkey    pea,  4  ounces  false  bitter-sweet,  3 
ounces  dandelion  root,  3  ounces  juniper  ber- 
ries,  1   ounce  prickly-ash  berries,  2   ounces 
guaiacum  wood,  and  9  ounces  bamboo  briar 
root.     Coarsely  bruise  the  above  ingredients, 


and  moisten  them  with  alcohol.  Let  them 
stand  2  or  3  days,  then  put  them  in  a  steam 
displacement  apparatus,  and  pass  through  the 
vapor  of  3  pints  strong  alcohol.  Continue 
the  displacement  with  the  steam  of  water  till 
the  strength  is  exhausted ;  set  aside  the  3 
pints  of  tincture  which  first  passed,  and  evap- 
orate the  remaining  decoctions  to  1  quart; 
mix  this  with  the  tincture,  add  3  quarts 
sugar-house  syrup,  and,  when  cold,  add  1J 
ounces  iodide  of  potassium. 

4657.  Osborne's    Syrup.     This  is  one 
of  the  most  valuable  preparations  that  can  be 
made    for    children.      Simmer  11^  drachms 
each,  rhubarb  root,  anise  seed,  and  liquorice 
root,  in  45  ounces  boiling  water  over  a  slow 
fire  till  reduced  to  two-thirds.     Then  make  a 
syrup  with  4J  troy  pounds  white  sugar,  add 
2  •$§•  drachms  each  manna  and    compound 
tincture  of  opium  (paregoric),  and  225  grains 
salt  of  tartar.    In  warm  weather,  add  a  wine- 
glass of  French  brandy. 

4658.  Syrup  of  Seneka.     Evaporate  4 
fluid  ounces  of  the  fluid  extract  (see  No.  4598) 
by  means  of  a  sand  or  water-bath  to  a  syrupy 
liquid,  triturate  this  with  £  ounce  carbonate 
magnesia,  and  gradually  add  8  fluid  ounces 
of    water,    constantly    stirring;    filter,    and 
add  sufficient  water,  through   the  filter,  to 
make  the  liquid  measure  8  fluid  ounces,  then 
dissolve  in  it  16  troy  ounces  sugar,  with  the 
aid  of  heat,  and  strain  through  muslin  while 
hot.     The  product,  for  its  permanence  and 
elegant  appearance,  cannot  be  surpassed.     To 
prepare  this  syrup  directly  from  a  fluid  ex- 
tract by  merely  mixing  that  with  simple  syrup, 
would  render  the  preparation  uncommonly 
thin,  and  introduce  an  excessively  large  pro- 
portion of  alcohol,  which  would  be  an  un- 
questionable and  serious  objection. 

4659.  Compound  Chloroform  Syrup. 
This    formula   for    an    anodyne    containing 
chloroform  will  remain   combined  and  mix 
readily  with  either  spirit  or  water.     Macerate 
for  2  or  3  days  16  grains  resin  of  cannabis,  2 
grains  capsicum,  and  8  drops  oil  of  pepper- 
mint in  4  drachms  chloroform  and  li  drachms 
ether ;  filter  the  product.     To  about  1  ounce 
syrup  add  -J-  drachm  each  of  water  and  per- 
chloric acid,  and  dissolve  in  this  by  a  water- 
bath,  16  grains  muriate  of  morphia;   when 
cold   add  96  minims  Scheele's   hydrocyanic 
acid,  add  to  this  the  filtrate  first  made,  and 
syrup  sufficient  to  make  the  whole  up  to  4 
ounces. 

4660.  Syrup    of  Chloride  of   Iron. 
Place  in  a  flask  437 £  grains  sulphate  of  iron, 
5  grains  sulphate  of  soda  and  10  minims  di- 
lute sulphuric  acid  with  li  fluid  ounces  syrup 
previously  heated  to  nearly  boiling  point,  and 
continue  the  heat  until  a  ferrous  sulphate  so- 
lution is  effected.    In  another  flask  place  386 
grains  chloride  of  barium,  i  fluid  ounce  syrup, 
and  1  fluid  ounce  water,  and  apply  heat  until 
dissolved.      Pour  the  two  solutions  together 
and  mix  thoroughly  by  agitation  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  throw  the  whole  upon  a  paper 
filter  in  a  glass  funnel,  arranged   in  such  a 
manner  that  it  may  be  kept  hot.     "When  the 
ferrous  chloride  has  filtered  through,  test  a 
small  quantity  with  a  drop  of  solution  of  fer- 
rous sulphate ;  if  a  white  precipitate  occur.*,  a 
few  more  grains  of  sulphate  of  iron  must  be 
added  and  refiltered;  then  add  the   hydro. 


MEDICATED    SYEUPS. 


429 


chloric  acid  and  fill  into  4-ounce  vials  for 
further  use.  This  syrup  contains  the  same 
amount  of  metallic  iron,  minim  for  minim,  as 
the  tincture  of  chloride  of  iron  of  the  U.  S. 
Pharmacopoeia. 

4661.  Syrup    of  Lactate   of    Iron. 
Dissolve  1  drachin  lactate  of  iron  in  6  fluid 
ounces  boiling  water,  and  add  12  drachms 
sugar.     Dose,  2  to  4  tea-spoonfuls. 

4662.  Syrup  of  Bark  and  Chloride  of 
Iron.     Take  1  pint  of  the  saccharine  tinc- 
ture of  red  bark,  add  to  this  160  minims  each 
syrup  of  chloride    of  iron  and  hydrochloric 
acid.    This  contains  120  grains  of  red  bark 
and  10  drops  of  syrup  chloride  iron  to  eacli 
fluid  ounce.    If  it  be  desirable  to  mix  in  any 
other  proportion,  add  one  measure  of  hydro- 
chloric acid  for  each   measure  of  syrup  of 
chloride  of  iron.    This  is  a  deep  red,  clear 
tincture,    rather    pleasantly    bitter;    if  any 
doubt  exists  as  to  whether  it  has  blackened, 
add  dilute  alcohol  to  a  small  quantity,  until  it 
becomes  transparent  enough  to  observe   it 
thoroughly. 

4683.  Lahache's  Syrup  of  Iodide  of 
Potassium  and  Iron.  Take  of  iodide  of 
potassium,  308  grains;  iodide  of  iron  (in  so- 
lution 1  to  3),  230  grains ;  orange-flower 
water,  462  grains ;  simple  syrup  (concentra- 
ted), 33i  fluid  ounces ;  dissolve  the  iodide  of 
potassium  in  the  orange-flower  water,  add  the 
other  solution  and  incorporate  the  syrup. 
Preserve  it  cool  and  free  from  light. 

4664.  Syrup    of  Tannate   of  Iron. 
Citrate  of  iron,  2£  drachms  dissolved  in  1  ounce 
diluted  acetic  acid,  is  added  to  12  ounces  sim- 
ple syrup,  3  ounces  raspberry  syrup,  and  1 
drachm  extract  of  galls  rubbed  up  with  a  por- 
tion of  the  syrup. 

4665.  Phillip's  Syrup  of  Sesquichlor- 
ide  of  Iron.    Dissolve  286  grains  sesquioxide 
of  iron  in  1200  grains  hydrochloric  acid  and  2 
ounces  water.     Filter,   and  add    16  ounces 
simple  syrup.     Dose,  a  tea-spoonful. 

4666!  Syrup  of  Lactucarium.  Tritu- 
rate 1  troy  ounce  lactucarium  to  powder,  and 
heat  it  with  8  fluid  ounces  water  to  the  boiling 
point;  maintain  the  temperature  for  a  few 
moments,  then  strain  by  wringing  through 
muslin;  add  to  the  strained  liquid  gradually, 
and  with  constant  trituration,  120  grains  car- 
bonate of  magnesia;  filter  through  paper, 
pouring  sufficient  water  through  the  filter  to 
make  the  filtrate  measure  8  fluid  ounces,  in 
which  dissolve  14  troy  ounces  sugar  with 
heat,  and  strain  through  muslin.  This  makes 
an  excellent  syrup  and  of  fine  appearance. 

4887.  French  Syrup  of  Balsam  of 
Copaiba.  Triturate  2£  drachms  calcined 
magnesia  with  the  yolk  of  4  eggs;  thoroughly 
mix  with  this  5i  ounces  balsam  copaiba,  and 
add  104  ounces  simple  syrup.  This  prepara- 
tion keeps  well. 

4688.  French  Syrup  of  Santonin. 
Dissolve  55£  grains  santonin  in  a  little 
alcohol,  add  it  to  16  troy  ounces  boiling 
simple  syrup.  The  strength  of  the  syrup  will 
be  about  3  grains  to  the  ounce. 

4669.  Moore's  Syrup  of  Tar.  Take 
of  tar  (strained),  1  ounce  (troy);  pulverized 
sugar  (refined),  12  ounces;  carbonate  of  mag- 
nesia, 3  ounces,  rubbed  to  powder  on  a  sieve; 
alcohol,  2  fluid  ounces.  Mix  the  alcohol  with 
6  fluid  ounces  of  water,  rub  the  tar  in  a  mor- 


tar of  sufficient  capacity  with  1  ounce  of  the 
sugar,  and  then  with  the  carbonate  of  magne- 
sia, gradually  added,  until  the  whole  is  re- 
duced to  a  uniform,  pulverulent  mixture.  To 
this  gradually  add,  with  constant  trituration, 
which  should  be  continued  for  15  or  20  min- 
utes, 4  fluid  ounces  of  the  mixture  of  alcohol 
and  water;  then  strain  with  strong  expres- 
sion. Return  the  residue  to  the  mortar,  and 
again  triturate,  first  with  1  ounce  of  the  sugar 
and  then  with  the  remaining  4  fluid  ounces  of 
the  mixture  of  alcohol  and  water,  gradually 
added,  as  before ;  finally  strain  and  strongly- 
express,  and  then  reduce  the  dregs  by  tritura- 
tion to  a  smooth  and  uniform  condition,  and 
pack  firmly  in  a  glass  funnel  prepared  for 
percolation,  and  adjusted  to  the  neck  of  a 
graduated  bottle  containing  the  remainder  of 
the  sugar,  and  pour  upon  this  the  expressed 
liquid ;  and  when  it  has  all  disappeared  from 
the  surface,  continue  the  percolation  with 
water  until  the  whole  measures  1  pint.  Agi- 
tate occasionally,  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
and  strain  if  necessary.  Dose  from  a  dessert 
to  a  table-spoonful.  The  strained  tar,  such  as 
is  usually  sold  in  gallon  cans,  answers  well  for 
this  purpose,  but  when  it  is  not  at  hand  the 
crude  tar  may  be  dissolved  in  a  small  quan- 
tity of  ether,  and  strained,  and  the  ether 
allowed  to  evaporate  spontaneously. 

4670.  Syrup  of  Capsicum.    Take  of 
cayenne  pepper  m  fine  powder,  2  drachms ; 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  1  drachm;   sugar,  in 
coarse    powder,  14  ounces,   troy.    Rub    the 
cayenne  pepper  first  with  the  "carbonate  of 
mangnesia  and  sugar,  and  then  with  1  fluid 
ounce  of  alcohol,  and  slowly  pour  in  water 
until  6  fluid  ounces  have  been  added.     The 
whole  is  then  to  be  transferred  to  a  proper 
filter ;  and  when  the  liquor  has  ceased  to  pass, 
pour  on  water  until  9  fluid  ounces  of  filtered 
liquor  are  obtained.     To  this  add  the  remain- 
der of  the  sugar,  and  by  a  gentle  heat  form  a 
pint  of  syrup.    Made  in  this  manner  syrup  of 
capiscum  is  a  pungent  yellowish-brown  syrup, 
each  tea-spoonful  of  which  contains  nearly  2 
grains  of  cayenne  pepper 

4671.  Syrup  of  Valerianate  of  Am- 
monia.    Take   of   valeriauic  acid,  2    fluid 
drachms ;  dilute  alcohol,  i  fluid  ounce.     Sat- 
urate the  valerianic  acid  with  carbonate  of 
ammonia,  having  previously  mixed  it  with 
the  diluted    alcohol,    then    add    the    syrup 
sufficient  to  make   i  pint.       Dose,   a  fluid 
drachm  containing  2  grains  of  the  valerianate. 

4672.  Syrup  of  Stillingia  (Queen's 
Root).      Take  of  queen's  root,   3  pounds; 
prickly-ash  berries,  1£  pounds ;  refined  sugar, 
18    pounds.      Grind    and    mix    the    articles 
together;    place  the  whole    4i  pounds    in  a 
convenient    vessel,  cover  them    with    alco- 
hol of  76  per  cent.,  and  macerate  for  three 
days.     Then  transfer  the  whole  to  a  displace- 
ment apparatus,  and  gradually  add  alcohol 
until  5  pints  of  the  alcoholic  tincture  have 
been  obtained,  which  retain  and  set  aside. 
Then  continue  the  percolation  with  water 
until  the  liquor  passes  almost  tasteless,  add 
the  sugar  to  it,  and  evaporate  by  gentle  heat 
until  13  pints  are  obtained,  to  which  add  the 
reserved  5   pints  of  alcoholic  tincture,  and 
make  18  pints  of  syrup.     It  may  be  flavored 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  essence  of 
sassafras  if  required.     (Am.  Dis). 


4,30 


MEDICATED    SYEUPS. 


4673.  Compound  Syrup  of  Stillingia  the  syrup,  while  hot,  through  a  damp  cotton- 
Queen's  Root).  Take  queen's  root  and  flannel  bag.  This  forms  a  beautiful,  clear 
root  of  turkey  corn,  of  each  2  pounds ;  blue  :  syrup,  free  from,  turbidness,  possessing  a  de- 
flag-root,  elder  flowers,  and  pipsissewa  leaves,  !  coded  taste  of  the  balsam,  with  most  of  its 
of  each  1  pound ;  coriander  seed  and  prickly-  medicinal  virtues. 


ash  berries  of  each  -J-  pound.     Grind  and  mix 
the  articles    together;    place    the    whole    8 


4678.    Syrup  of  Chamomile.     Take  of 
fluid  extract  of  cnamomile,  4  ounces  ;  syrup, 


pounds  in  a  convenient  vessel,  cover  them  !  12  ounces.  Mix  with  the  syrup  moderately 
with  alcohol  of  76  per  cent.,  and  macerate  for  j  warm,  and  strain  through  flannel.  The  pre- 
three  days.  Then  convey  the  whole  to  a  i  paration  is  as  clear  as  that  made  from  the 
displacement  apparatus,  and  gradually  add  j  flowers,  with  the  convenience  of  being  made 
alcohol  until  4  pints  of  the  alcoholic  tincture  j  at  will.  The  dose  is  one-fourth  that  of  the 
have  been  obtained,  which  retain  and  set  i  fluid  extract,  or  from  2  to  4  drachms, 
aside.  Then  continue  the  percolation  with  i  4679.  Syrup  of  Hydrate  of  Chloral, 
water,  and  of  this  second  solution  reserve  so  j  Mix  together  2  scruples  hydrate  of  chloral,  1 
much  as  contains  a  sensible  amount  of  spirit,  !  drachm  water,  and  7  drachms  simple  syrup. 


and  distill  or  evaporate  the  alcohol  from  it. 
Continue  the  displacement  by  water  until  the 
solution  obtained  is  almost  tasteless,  and  boil 
down  this  weaker  infusion  until,  when  added 
to  the  second  solution  after  the  evaporation 
of  its  alcohol,  it  will  make  24  pints.  To 
these  two  solutions  combined,  add  24  pounds 
of  refined  sugar  and  dissolve  it  by  heat,  care- 
fully removing  any  scum  which  arises  as  it 
comes  to  the  point  of  boiling;  and  if  it  ex- 
ceeds 28  pints,  evaporate  to  that  point  with 
constant  stirring.  Then  remove  from  the 
fire,  and,  when  nearly  cold,  add  the  4  pints  of 
reserved  alcoholic  tincture,  and  make  4  gal- 
lons of  syrup,  each  pint  of  which  will  be 
equal  to  4  oxtnces  of  the  ingredients  in  medi- 
cinal virtue.  (Am.  Dis.) 
4674.  German  Syrup  of  Rhubarb. 


4680.  Syrup  of  Citric  Acid.       Dis- 
solve 60  grains  citric  acid  in  fine  powder  in 
sufficient  warm  or  hot  water,  and  add  the  so- 
lution to  16  fluid  ounces  syrup  containing  30 
minims  spirits  of  lemon,  shaking  them  all  to- 
gether until  thoroughly  mixed.     Syrup  made 
according  to  this  formula  has  a  better  appear- 
ance,  and  retains  its  brilliance    and   flavor 
longer  than  that  prepared  according   to  the 
U.  S.  Pharmacopoeia. 

4681.  Compound  Syrup  of  Hemlock. 
Bruise  well  2  ounces  each  of  water  hemlock 
(Phellandrium  aquaticum)  seeds,  queen's-root 
(stillingia  silvatica),  and  red  Peruvian  bark. 
Simmer  them  with  2  pints  boiling  water  for 
20  minutes;  and,   when  cold,    strain.     Then 
evaporate    to    1  pint,   add  2    pounds    white 
sugar,  dissolve  with  a  gentle  heat,  removing 


Take  of  alkaline  fluid  extract  of  rhubarb,  3  i  any  scum  that  may  arise,  and  strain  the  mix- 
fluid  ounces  (sec  No.  4591) ;  oil  of  cinnamon,   ture  while  hot.     Dose  :  1  to  3  drachms  3  or  4 


3  minims;  sugar,  36  troy  ounces.  Mix  the 
oil  of  cinnamon  with  the  fluid  extract,  then 
add  sufficient  water  to  make  the  whole  mix- 
ture weigh  20  troy  ounces;  in  this  dissolve 


times  daily. 

4682.  Cadet's  Compound  Syrup  of 
Ipecacuanha.  Mix  2  ounces  each  syrup  of 
ipecacuanha  and  syrup  of  poppies,  1  ounce 


the  sugar  with  the  aid  of  heat,  and  strain,  i  syrup   of  orange  flowers,  and  li  oxymel  of 
The  above  formula  for  syrup  of  rhubarb,  of !  squill.     2  tea-spoonfuls  constitute  a  dose  in 


the  Prussian  pharmacopoeia,  is  in  officinal  pro- 
portions, and  yields  a  strictly  officinal  result. 

4675.  Alkaline  Syrup  Rhubarb. 
Take  of  alkaline  fluid  extract  of  rhubarb,  6 
fluid  ounces  (see  No.  4591);  oil  of  cinnamon, 
3  minims;  sugar,  36  troy  ounces.  Mix  the 
oil  of  cinnamon  with  the  fluid  extract ;  then 
add  sufficient  water  to  make  the  whole  mix- 
ture weigh  20  troy  ounces;  in  this  dissolve 
the  sugar,  with  the  aid  of  heat,  and  strain. 

4676.  Syrup  of  Guaiac.  Decidedly 
the  most  agreeable  manner  of  administering 
guaiac  in  liquid  form,  so  far  as  tried,  is  that 
of  a  syrup  prepared  as  follows :  Take  of 
guaiac,  1  ounce ;  solution  of  potassa,  ^  fluid 
ounce ;  sugar,  14  ounces,  troy.  Macerate  the 
guaiac  in  the  solution  of  potassa  mixed  with 
2  fluid  ounces  of  water  for  2  or  3  days ;  then 

Eercolate  with  water  till  8   fluid   ounces  of 
quid  are  obtained,  in  which  dissolve   the 


Procter's  Syrup  of  Tolu.     Bal- 


sugar. 
4677. 

sam  of  tolu  and  carbonate"  of  magnesia,  of 
each,  ^  ounce ;  alcohol,  1  fluid  ounce ;  refined 
sugar,  2i  pounds.  Triturate  the  balsam  of 
tolu  and  carbonate  of  magnesia  together  with 
1  ounce  of  the  sugar,  gradually  adding  the 
alcohol,  and  then  water  enough  to  make  the 
whole  measure  12  fluid  ounces.  Filter,  add 
water  enough  to  make  1  pint  of  filtrate,  to 
which  add  the  rest  of  the  sugar,  and  dissolve 
by  a  very  gentle  heat.  If  required,  strain 


whooping-cough. 

4683.  Compound  Syrup  of  Yellow- 
dock.     Grind  and  mix  together  2  pounds  yel- 
low-dock root  (rum ex),  1  pound  bark  of  false 
bitter-sweet  root,  £  pound  American  ivy  bark, 
and  -J-  pound  figwort.     Cover  them  with  76  per 
cent,  alcohol,  and  let  them  stand  for  2  days. 
Then  displace  through  a  percolator  with  hot 
water  2  pints  extract,  which  reserve.     Con- 
tinue the  percolation  with  hot  water,  and  re- 
serve so  much  of  this  second  solution  as  con- 
tains a  sensible  amount  of  spirit,  distill  the 
alcohol  from  it,  and  set  it  also  aside.     Continue 
the  displacement  with  hot  water  until  near 
exhaustion,  and  boil  down  this  until,  when 
mixed  with  the  second  solution,  the  two  com- 
bined will  make  12  pints.     To  the  mixture  of 
these  two  add  16  pounds  refined  sugar ;   dis- 
solve by  heat,  carefully  removing  the  scum, 
evaporate  to  14  pints.    "WTien  nearly  cold  add 
the  2  pints  first  reserved  alcoholic  tincture, 
making  in  all  2  gallons   syrup.     Each   pint 
will  contain  the  virtue  of  4  ounces  of  the  ingre- 
dients.    (Am.  Dis.) 

4684.  Corvisart's  Syrup  of  Pepsine. 
Heat  15  parts  by  weight  of  syrup  of  cherries 
to  70°  or  75°  Fahr.;  mix  with  1  part  starchy 
pepsine,  and,  after  30  minutes,  filter. 

4685.  Goddard's    Aromatic    Black- 
berry Syrup.     Make  a  syrup  of  the  follow- 
ing ingredients :  2  pints  blackberry  juice,   1 
pound    sugar,    1    pint    brandy,    6    nutmegs 


OXTM  EL  —  ELIXIRS. 


431 


grated,  |  ounce  bruised  cinnamon,  2  drachms 
cloves,  and  2  drachms  allspice.  The  astrin- 
gent properties  of  blackberry  juice  adapt  it, 
particular/  in  combination  with  carminatives, 
to  the  treatment  of  bowel  complaints. 

4686.  Compound  Syrup  of  Assafoe- 
tida.     The  disagreeable  smell  and  taste  of 
assafcetida  prevents  to   a  great  extent    the 
general  use     of    this  valuable    drug.       Mr. 
Bambo,  in  the  Journal  of  Pharmacy,  proposes 
the   following  recipe,  which  unites  the  pro- 
perties of  assafoetida  with  those  of  wild  cherry, 
and  is  free  from  above  objections.     Take  1 
ounce  assafoetida  and  2  ounces  carbonate  of 
magnesia;  rub  these  together,  gradually  add- 
ing 1  pint  infusion  of  wild  cherry  bark,  and 
filter.     Transfer  the  filtrate  to  a  bottle,  and 
dissolve   in  it  by  agitation  24  ounces  white 
sugar.     This  preparation  resembles  the  syrup 
of  wild  cherry  in  appearance. 

4687.  Syrup  of  Milk.    Evaporate,  with 
constant  stirring,  6  pounds  of  skimmed  milk 
to  3  pounds;  add  4£  pounds  of  sugar;   dis- 
solve with  a  gentle  heat,  and  strain.     It  may 
be  flavored  with  the  addition  of  1  ounce  of 
cherry-laurel  water.     Milk  may  be  preserved 
by  first  heating  it,  and,  when  cold,  charging 
it  with  carbonic  acid  gas. 

4688.  Grimault's  Syrup    of    Horse- 
radish.    Hager  gives  the  following    direc- 
tions:  50  parts  each  of  fresh  scurvy-grass, 
buckbean,  and  watercress,  60  parts  of  horse- 
radish, 40  of  fresh  orange  berries,  are  infused 
with  3  parts  of  cinnamon  in  50  parts  white 
wine,  and,  after  a  day,  expressed;  250  parts 
sugar  are  dissolved  in  the  filtrate. 

4689.  Grimault's  lodinized  Syrup 
of  Horseradish.  This  contains  10  parts 
iodine,  and  5  parts  iodine  of  potassium,  in 
8000  parts  of  the  above  syrup  of  horseradish. 


Oxymel.  An  acidulous  syrup  made 
of  honey  and  vinegar.  The  ingredients 
in  an  oxymel  should  preferably  be  of  such 
character,  and  in  such  proportions,  as  to  pro- 
duce a  mixture  of  the  proper  consistence  with- 
out further  evaporation. 

4691.  Simple    Oxymel.      Liquefy  by 
heat  40  ounces  (avoirdupois)  clarified  honey, 
and  mix  it  with  5  imperial  fluid  ounces  each 
acetic  acid  and  distilled  water.     (Br.  Ph.) 

4692.  Oxymel  of   Squills.      Mix  to- 

§  ether  1  imperial  pint  vinegar  of  squills  and 
pounds  (avoirdupois)  clarified  honey.   Evap- 
orate in  a  water-bath  until  it  attains,  when 
cold,  a  specific  gravity  of  1.32.     (Br.  Ph.) 

4693.  Clarified  Honey.     Melt   a  con- 
venient quantity  of  honey  by  means  of  a  wa- 
ter-bath, and  then  remove  the  scum.     (  U.  S. 
Ph.) 

4694.  Honey   of  Hoses.     Moisten   2 
troy  ounces  red  rose,  in  moderately  fine  pow- 
der, with  %  fluid  ounce  diluted  alcohol ;  pack 
it  firmly   in  a  conical  glass  percolator,  and 
displace  6  fluid  drachms  with  diluted  alcohol. 
Reserve  this,  and  percolate  ij  pint  more;  evap- 
orate this   last  by  a  water-bath  to  10  fluid 
drachms,  add  the  reserved  liquid,  and  mix  with 
25  troy  ounces  clarified  honey.     (U.  S.  Ph.) 
Added  to  water,  it  makes  au  elegant  astrin- 
gent wash  and  gargle  for  foul  aud  tender  gums, 
sore  mouth,  sore  throat,  relaxed  uvula,  &c. 


4695.  Honey  of  Borax.     Mix  together 
60  grains  borate  of  soda  in  fine  powder  and  1 
troy  ounce  clarified  honey.     (U.  S.  Ph.)    A 
common  application  in  sore  gums,  mouth,  and 
lips,  in  thrush,  salivation,  <tc.;  also  for  sore 
nipples,  excoriations,  &c.,  a  little  being  ap- 
plied ou  the  tip  of  the  finger.     Diluted  with 
water  it  forms  an  excellent  skin  and  mouth 
wash  or  lotion. 

4696.  Honey  of  Violets.     Take  of  ex 
pressed  juice  of  violets  (clear),  1  fluid  ounce ; 
clarified  honey,  2  ounces ;  mix  without  heat 
in  a  glasi  vessel.     Used  chiefly  as  a  mouth 
wash,   to  perfume   the  breath,   as  honey  of 
roses. 


Elixirs.      A  tincture  with  more  than 
one  base;   or  a  compound  of  various 
medicinal  substances  held  in  solution  by  alco- 
hol in  some  form.     Under  elixirs  are  included 
medicated  wines,  mixtures,  <fec. 

4698.  Elixir  of  Calisaya  Bark:     Re- 
duce to  a  moderate  powder,  8  ounces  Calisaya 
bark ;  4  ounces  each  orange  peel,  cinnamon, 
and  coriander  seed ;  i  ounce  each  anise  seed, 
caraway  seed,  and  cardamoms.     Percolate  the 
above  ingredients  with  4  pints  alcohol  diluted 
with  12  pints  water,  and  add  2  pints  simple 
syrup. 

4699.  Ferro-phosphorated  Elixir  of 
Calisaya  Bark.     The  percolate  obtained  in 
the  last  receipt,  without  the  syrup,  should  be 
digested  with  fresh  hydrated  oxide  of  iron; 
this  is  obtained  from  the  solution  of  tincture 
of  chloride  of  iron  (prepared  according  to  the 
formula  of  the  U.  S.  Pharmacopoeia,  before 
the  alcohol  is  added),  8  ounces  of  which  solu- 
tion, precipitated  by  sufficient  ammonia,  fur- 
nish the  requisite  quantity  of  hydrated  oxide 
of  iron.     After  standing  for  12  to  24  hours, 
with  frequent  shaking,  test  a  small  quantity 
with  a  few  drops  of  tincture  of  iron;   if  it 
blackens  with  this  test,  more  hydrated  oxide 
must  be   added,  until  all  the   cincho-tannic 
acid    is    removed,    which    would    otherwise 
blacken  the  iron  salt  hereafter  to  be  added. 
When  the  oxide  of  iron  test  ceases  to  blacken, 
filter  the  mixture.     After  which  add  2  pints 
simple  syrup,  and  2  ounces  pyrophosphate  of 
iron  dissolved  in  the  least  possible  quantity 
of  water.     Lastly,  after  standing  for  12  hours, 
filter  the  whole.     This  produces  a  beautifully 
clear  and  pale  colored  ferro-phosphorate  of 
Calisaya  bark  of  an  agreeable  taste,  and  free 
from  all  blackness. 

4700.  Ferro-phosphorated  Elixir  of 
Calisaya  Bark  and  Bismuth.      This  pre- 
paration is  made  according  to  the  last  formula, 
with  the  addition  of  2  ounces  citrate  of  bis- 
muth, dissolved  in  a  sufficiency  of  equal  parts 
of  water  and  liquor  of  ammonia  at  a  gentle 
heat.     The  bismuth  solution  is  added  to  the 
elixir  at  the  same  time  as  the  pyrophosphatei 
of  iron,  and  the  mixture  filtered. 

4701.  Elixir  of  Calisaya  Bark  and 
Bismuth.      This  may    be  prepared  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  ferro-phosph orated  elixir 
(see  fro.  4669) ;  substituting,  in  the  place  of 
the  pyrophosphate  of  iron,  2  ounces  citrate  of 
bismuth,  dissolved  as  directed  in  No.  4700. 

4702.  Elixir  of  Peruvian  Bark  and 
Protoxide  of  Iron.    Take  4  ounces  Calisaya 
bark,  1  ounce  cinnamon,  1  drachm  caraway 


4:32 


ELIXIRS. 


seed,  and  6  ounces  orange  peel.  Reduce 
them  to  coarse  powder  and  percolate  with  1£ 
pints  each  of  alcohol  and  water.  N"ext  dis- 
solve 4  ounces  carbonate  of  iron  in  4  ounces 
muriatic  acid  and  2  ounces  nitric  acid ;  dilute 
the  solution  with  8  ounces  water,  and  filter ; 
precipitate  with  sufficient  liquor  of  ammonia, 
and  wash  the  precipitate.  Digest  the  wet 
precipitate  with  the  percolated  tincture  for  24 
hours,  with  occasional  shaking.  This  must 
then  be  tested  with  a  few  drops  of  tincture  of 
iron,  for  any  cincho-tannic  acid  that  may  be 
left.  (See  No.  4699.)  When  all  the  acid  has 
been  removed,  filter,  and  add  2i  pints  simple 
syrup,  and  caramel  to  color ;  lastly,  for  every 
fluid  ounce  add  3  grains  pure  crystallized  sul- 
phuret  of  iron.  /This  is  said  to  be  an  ex- 
cellent imitation  of  N"ichol's  preparation  cf 
Peruvian  bark. 

4703.  Squibb's  Liquor  of  Iodide  of 
Iron.     Take  of  iodine,  a  ounces ;  iron- wire, 
5  drachms;   sugar,   12  ounces.      Make    this 
sugar  into  syrup  by  boiling  it  up  with  8  fluid 
ounces  distilled  water,  and  filtering  through 
paper  into  a  flask  marked  at  the  point  up  to 
which  it  holds  20  fluid  ounces.    Meanwhile 
shake  the  iodine  and  iron  with  3  fluid  ounces 
water  in  a  small  flask  until  a  clear  green 
liquid  results.    Add  to  this  a  small  portion  of 
the  syrup,  and  filter  the  whole  through  a  new 
filter  into  the  syrup,  keeping  but  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  solution  in  the  filter  at  a  time. 
Drain,  but  do  not  wash  the  filter ;  and,  final- 
ly, add  to  the  liquid  in  the  bottle  enough  dis- 
tilled water    to  make  u^  20    fluid   ounces. 
Shake  it  well,  and  keep  it  in  small  bottles, 
filled  and  well  stoppered.  • 

4704.  Physic's  Bitter  Wine  of  Iron. 
Take  of  iron  filings,  3  ounces ;  ginger,  bruis- 
ed, gentian,  bruised,  each,  1  ounce;  orange- 
peel,  bruised,  i  ounce ;  strong  old  cider,    1 
pint.     Macerate  in  a  bottle  loosely  corked, 
for  2  weeks  or  longer,  then  express  and  filter 
for  use.    A  reaction  occurs  between  the  iron 
filings  and  the  acid  of  the  cider,  resulting  in 
the  formation  of  malate,  and  perhaps  some 
acetate  of  protoxide  of  iron,  with  the  evolu- 
tion of  hydrogen  gas,  which  swells  up  the  in- 
gredients, and  requires  that  the  maceration 
should  be  conducted  in  a  bottle  of  twice  the 
capacity  of  the  ingredients.     This  preparation 
has  a  dark,  almost  black  color,  very  bitter 
aromatic  taste,  and  is  a  good,  though  not 
an  elegant  chalybeate,  in  the  dose  of  a  tea- 
spoonful. 

4705.  Hubbell's  "Wine  of  Iron.     Take 
citrate    (of   magnetic    oxide)    of    iron,    128 
grains ;  precipitated  extract  of  Calisaya  bark, 
256  grains.     (See  next  receipt.)    White  wine 
(sherry),  1  pint;  curacoa  (the  best),  C£  fluid 
ounces.    Dissolve  the  precipitated  extract  of 
bark  in  the  wine  by  aid  of  a  sufficient  quanti- 
ty of  citric  acid,  then  add  the  citrate  of  iron, 
filter  the  solution,  and  add  to  it  the  curacoa, 
and  mit.    The  peculiarities  of  this  prepara- 
tion are,  that  it  consists  of  iron  and  cinchona, 
and  yet  is  free  from  any  inky  taste  or  appear- 
ance,   is   perfectly    transparent,    of  a    light 
brown  color  not  very  different  from  that  of 
sherry  wine,   and  a  bitter,  not  disagreeable 
taste.     The  label  claims  for  it  the  presence  of 
citrate  of  the  magnetic  oxide  of  iron,  as  the 
ferruginous  ingredient.     The  doso  of  this  pre- 
paration is  a  tea-spoonful. 


4706.  Hubbell's  Precipitated  Extract 
of  Calisaya  Bark.   The  precipitated  extract 
of  bark  employed  by  Mr.  Hubbell  is  not  the 
commercial  extract,  nor  yet  that  of  Wetherill, 
nor  of  Ellis,  but  is  made  by  himself,  by  a 
process  based  on  that  of  Mr.  Herring,  of  Lon- 
don, for  the  manufacture  of  quinine.      Any 
quantity  of  Calisaya  bark  is  treated  with  a  so- 
lution of  caustic  soda  (2  parts    to    100   of 
water),  until  it  has  removed  the  coloring  mat- 
ter, kinic  and  tannic  acids,   and  extractive 
matters.    The  residue  is  washed  with  water, 
dried,  and  extracted  with  alcohol  till  exhaust- 
ed, and  the  alcohol  distilled  off  so  as  to  obtain 
an    extract.      The    extract    consists    almost 
wholly  of  quinia  and  cinchonia,  and  is  free 
from  tannin,  and,  though  not  soluble  in  wine 
alone,  becomes  so  by  aid  of  citric  acid. 

4707.  Shinn's  Bitter  Wine  of  Iron. 
Take   of  sulphate  of  cinchona,  6   drachms; 
sulphate  of  quiuia,  2  drachms  ;  citrate  of  iron, 
4  ounces ;  citric  acid,  1  ounce ;  sherry  wine, 
4  pints;    alcohol,   1  pint;    orange   syrup,   1 
pint.    Dissolve  the  sulphates  and  citric  acid 
m  1£  pints  of  hot  water,  and  the  citrate  of 
iron  in  i  pint  of  the  same ;  mix  the  solutions, 
and  add  the  other  ingredients. 

4708.  Aromatic  Wine  of  Iron.     Di- 
gest 1  ounce  iron  filings  for  2  or  3  days  in  3 
fluid  ounces  lemon  juice ;  add  ^  ounce  each 
bruised  gentian  and  cinnamon,  and  16  ounces 
Rhenish  (or  sherry)  wine.    After  24  hours  de- 
cant and  filter.     Gentian  contains  no  tannin, 
and  will  not  blacken  the  iron  in  the  solution. 

4709.  To  Prevent  Sediment  in  Pre- 
parations of  Peruvian  Bark.     The  forma- 
tion of  a  sediment  in  this  and  other  simple 
preparations  of  Peruvian  bark  may  be  avoided 
by  displacing  or  digesting  its  powder  first 
with  a  solution  of  soda  which  will  extract  the 
tannin,  kinovin,   <fec. ;  after  washing  off  the 
last  traces  of  the  alkali  by  means  of  water, 
the  alcoholic  or  vinous  tincture  may  then  be 
prepared  as  usual,  and  will  remain  clear,  be- 
cause free  from  the  principles  extracted  by 
the  alkaline  solution.     The  alkaloids  of  the 
bark  do  not  dissolve  in  weak  mineral  alkalies. 

4710.  Cottereau's  Wine  of  Cinchonia 
is  made  as  follows :   Dissolve  24  grains  sul- 
phate of  cinchonia  in  2  pints  Madeira  wine, 
and  filter.     Dose,  1  to  4  ounces. 

4711.  Wine  of  Calisaya  Bark.    Di- 
gest 1  part  powdered  Peruvian  bark  in  12  parts 
white  wine  for  24  hours,  and  filter.    A  similar 
preparation  may  be  made  of  20  parts  of  red 
wine  and  1  part  extract  of  Peruvian  bark. 

4712.  Aromatic  Mixture  of  Iron. 
Take  Peruvian  bark  in  powder,  1  ounce ;  co- 
lumba  root  in  coarse  powder,  3  drachms; 
bruised  cloves,  2  drachms;  filings  of  iron, 
separated  by  a  magnet,  h  ounce ;  digest 
for  3  days  with  occasional  agitation  in  a 
covered  vessel,  with  as  much  peppermint 
water  as  will  give  12  ounces  of  a  filtered  pro- 
duct, and  then  add  compound  tincture  of  car- 
damoms, 3  fluid  ounces,  and  tincture  of 
orange  peel,  2  fluid  drachms.  This  mixture 
should  bo  kept  in  a  well-stoppered  bottle. 
Properties,  tonic,  and  valuable  in  various 
states  of  debility ;  dose  from  i  to  2  fluid 
ounces. 

4713.  Procter's  Rennet  Wine.  Take 
of  fresh  rennets  (about  3),  24  troy  ounces ; 
chloride  of  sodium,  3  ounces ;  alcohol,  6  fluid 


ELIXIRS. 


4,33 


ounces;  white  wine,  16  fluid  ounces.  "Wash 
the  rennets  in  water  until  perfectly  clean,  cut 
them  up,  and  macerate  them  for  14  days  with 
frequent  agitation  in  the  wine,  then  add  the 
alcohol,  and  filter  for  use.  Dose,  1  tea-spoon- 
ful immediately  after  eating. 

4714.  Wine  of  Wild  Cherry  Bark. 
Professor  Parrish  gives  the  following  formula 
in  his  "  Elements  of  Pharmacy."    Alcoholic 
extract  (from  24  ounces)  of  wild  cherry  bark, 
5J  ounces  ;  sweet  almonds,  3  ounces ;  water,  1 
pint;   and  cherry  wine,  2  pints.     Beat  the 
almonds  with  the  water  to  a  paste,  rub  down 
the  extract  with  i  pint  of  the  wine,  and  mix 
the  two  liquids  in  a  bottle  of  the  capacity  of 
3  pints,  stop  it  closely,  and  permit  it  to  stand 
for  3  days,  with   occasional  agitation;   then 
add  the  remainder  of  the  wine,  allow  it  to 
stand  a  week,  and  filter.     By  this  mode  of 
proceeding,   opportunity  is  afforded  for  the 
development  of  the  hydrocyanic  acid  before 
the  menstruum  is  made  so  alcoholic  as  to  re- 
tard the  reaction  which  favors  its  formation. 
Thus  made,  wine  of  wild  cherry    bark  is  a 
transparent,  wine-red  liquid,   having  an  as- 
tringent bitter-almond  taste  and  odor.     The 
dose  of  this  preparation  as  a  tonic  and  sedative 
is  a  tea-spoonful. 

471 5.  Ferrated  Wine  of  Wild  Cherry. 
Exhaust  12  ounces  bruised  wild  cherry  bark 
of  its  tonic  principles  with  alcohol,  and  care- 
fully evaporate  the  alcoholic  tincture  so  as  to 
expel  the  alcohol ;  add  G  ounces  water  and  -J- 
ounce  hydrated  sesquioxide   of  iron.    Mace- 
rate this  with  occasional  agitation  for  G  hours, 
and  filter  into  a  bottle  containing  an  emulsion 
of  2  ounces  sweet  almonds  in  G  ounces  water. 
"When  reaction  has  ceased,  filter  again,  and 
add   12  ounces   white   sugar,   and  for  every 
ounce  thus  prepared,  add  24  grains  citrate  of 
iron,  previously  dissolved  in  water  sufficient 
to  make  the  whole  fluid  extract  measure  24 
fluid  ounces.     The  addition  of  iron  to  the  bit- 
ter principle  and  hydrocyanic  acid  of  the  sim- 
ple extract  of  wild  cherry   should  render  it 
much  more  efficient  as  a  tonic,  and  greatly 
add  to  the  value  of  the  preparation. 

4716.  Ferrated  Elixir  of  Wild  Cherry. 
Take  of  fluid  extract  of  wild  cherry  bark,  4 
fluid  ounces ;  curacoa  cordial,  11  fluid  ouuces ; 
pyrophosphate   of  iron,   25G   grains ;   boiling 
water,  1  fluid  ounce.     Mix  the  fluid  extract 
with  the  curapoa  cordial.     Dissolve  the  pyro- 
phosphate of  iron  in  the   boiling  water,  and 
mix  all  together.  Dose,  a  tea-spoonful  3  times 
daily. 

4717.  Elixir  de  Garus.      Digest  2  parts 
by  weight  each  of  aloes  and  myrrh,  and  1  part 
Spanish  saffron,  in  24   parts  of  GO  per  cent, 
alcohol,   and  2    of   diluted    sulphuric    acid. 
Filter. 

Or :  Digest  for  some  hours  3  parts  by 
weight  each  of  aloes  and  myrrh,  and  2  parts 
each  of  nutmegs  and  cloves,  in  576  parts  rec- 
tified spirit  diluted  with  an  equal  weight  of 
water.  Then  add  864  parts  orange-flower 
syrup,  192  parts  orange-flower  water  and  2 
each  of  cochineal  and  Spanish  saffron.  Filter. 
Dose  of  either  of  the  above  preparations.  1 
tea-spoonful  3  or  4  times  a  day.  (Prussian 
Ph.) 

4718.  Elixir   of  Pepsine.     Dissolve  1 
part  by  weight  starchy  pepsine  in  8  parts  wa- 
ter ;  filter  tlie  solution,  and  add  3  parts  elixir 


of  garus  and  4  parts  syrup  of  cherries.  Dose, 
1,  2  or  3  table-spoonfuls  twice  during  the 
meals. 

4719.  Corvisart's  Elixir  of  Pepsine. 
Saturate   1  part   by  weight  starchy   pepsino 
with  15  parts  elixir  of  garus.     Macerate  fof 
half  an  hour  in  a  covered  vessel,   and  filter 
through  wetted  paper.    Dose,  1  table-spoonful 
before  or  during  meals. 

4720.  Mialhe's    Elixir  of    Pepsine. 
Macerate  1  part  by  weight  of  starchy  pepsiue, 
and  5  parts  sugar,  in  2  parts  proof  spirit,  9 
parts  white  wine,  and  4  parts  water,  until  the 
sugar  is  dissolved ;  then  filter.     Dose,  1  table- 
spoonful  before  or  during  meals.     This  has  aa 
agreeable  taste. 

4721.  French  Pepsine  Wine.     This  is 
prepared  by  macerating  starchy  pepsine  in  20 
times  its  weight  of  white  wine. 

4722.  Wine  of  Beef  and  Iron.    Dis- 
solve 1  ounce  Liebig's  extract  of  meat  in  4 
ounces  water  and  -J  drachm  bruised  allspice; 
after  standing  10  hours  add  16  ounces  sherry 
wine  and  2  ounces  syrup.     Then  dissolve  96 
grains  citrate  of  iron  in  2  ounces  water.     Mix, 
filter,  and  add  water  to  make  the  whole  24 
fluid  ounces.     Each  ounce  contains  1  ounce 
fresh  beef  and  4  grains  citrate  of  iron.    Dose, 
1  table- spoonful.     This  and  the  6  following 
formula)  have  been  adopted  by  the  Newark 
Pharmaceutical  Association. 

4723.  Nutritive  Wine.    This  is  pre- 
pared in  the  same  manner  as  the  last  receipt, 
omitting  the  citrate  of  iron.     (Neicark  P.  A.) 

4724.  Elixir  of  Pepsine,  Bismuth,  and 
Strychnia.      Triturate  256  grains  Hawley's 
pepsine  with  2  ounces  glycerine  in  4  ounces 
water;  dissolve  64  grains  citrate  of  bismuth,  2 
ounces  orange-flower  water,  and  add  to  the 
pepsine ;  then  add  2  ounces  deodorized  alcohol, 
4  ounces  orange-flower  water,  2  ounces  syrup, 
and  lastly  1  grain  strychnia  dissolved  in  a 
few  drops  acetic.     Each  fluid  ounce  contains : 
pepsine,  1G  grains;  citrate  of  bismuth,  4  grains ; 
strychnia,  ^  grain.     (Newark  P.  A.) 

4725.  Ferro-Phosphorated  Elixir  of 
Gentian.      Take  1  drachm  each  coriander 
and  mace ;  1  ounce  orange  peel,  1  ounce  gen- 
tian root.     Keduce  to  powder  and  percolate 
with  a  mixture  of  4  ounces  deodorized  alco- 
hol, 4  ounces  water,  and  2  ounces  orange- 
flower  water ;  displace  10  ounces,  dissolve  in 
it  256  grains  pyrophosphate  of  iron,   add  6 
ounces  syrup,  and  filter.     Each  fluid  ounce 
represents  16  grains   pyrophosphate  of  iron 
and  30  grains  gentian.     (Newark  P.  A.) 

4726.  Wine  of  Pepsine.     Triturate  160 
grains  Hawley's  pepsino  in  4  ounces  sherry 
wino    and   1   drachm  dilute  muriatic    acid; 
pour  this  on  a  filter  and  pass  12  ounces  more 
sherry  wine  through  it.     Each   fluid   ounce 
contains  10  grains  pepsine.     (Newark  P.  A.) 

4727.  Aromatic      Elixir.      Take    '4 
drachms  orange   peel,   2  drachms  coriander 
seed,  2a  drachms  angelica  seed,  and  1  drachm 
cochineal.     Pulverize  and  percolate  with  12 
ounces  deodorized  alcohol  and  10  ounces  wa- 
ter.    Add  5  ounces  glycerine  and  6  ounces 
syrup,  to  make  2  pints.    This  is  a  pleasant 
vehicle  for  administering  nauseous  remedies. 
(Newark  P.  A.) 

4728.  Elixir  of  Valerianate  of  Am- 
monia.    Dissolve  96  grains  valerianate  of 
ammonia  in  4  ounces  water,  and  add  it  to  a 


4,34 


ELIXIES. 


mixture  composed  of  6  drachms  syrup  of!  then  add  the  other  ingredients,  with  a  sufB- 
orange  peel,  2  drachms  tincture  of  prickly  •  cieut  quantity  of  caramel  to  impart  a  brown- 
ash,  and  i  ounce  each  of  fluid  extract  ofjish  shade  to  the  mixture,  and  filter  through 
vanilla  and  compound  tincture  of  cardamoms,  paper. 

Each  drachm  contains  2  grains  valerianate  of      4735.     McMunn's    Elixir    of    Opium. 

The  following  receipt  is  said  to  have  been 
found  among  the  effects  of  the  late  Dr.  Chil- 
ton :  Take  5  pounds  of  Turkey  opium,  cut  iu 
small  pieces  and  dried,  and  put  it  into  a  large 
strong  glass  jar  with  a  wide  mouth,  and  pour 
on  it  sulphuric  ether  enough  to  a  little  more 
than  cover  it;  then  stop  the  jar  tight  with  a 
glass  stopper,  to  prevent  its  evaporation ;  set  it 
away  in  a  cool  place,  and  stir  it  daily  with  a 


ammonia. 
4729. 


Elixir  of  Taraxacum.     Take  of 


taraxacum  root,  G  ounces  (or  fluid  extract  of 
taraxacum,  6  ounces) ;  liquorice  root,  1  ounce; 
simple  syrup,  2^  pints.  The  dry  ingredients 
must  be  reduced  to  a  suitable  degree  of  fine- 
ness for  percolation.  Moisten  the  powder 
with  6  ounces  alcohol  diluted  with  twice  its 
bulk  of  water,  then  pack  in  a  conical  perco- 
lator and  pour  on  of  the  alcohol  and  water 
mixture  until  6i  pints  are  obtained,  then  add 


the  syrup  and  mix  them. 
4730.      Chloroform 


Elixir.      Take    li 


ounces  each  chloroform,  tincture  of  opium, 
tincture  of  camphor,  and  aromatic  spirit  of 
ammonia;  20  drops  oil  of  cinnamon,  and  2 
ounces  brandy.  This  is  an  excellent  mixture 
for  colic.  Dose,  h  fluid  drachm. 

4731.  Mynsicht's  Elixir  of  Vitriol. 
This  elixir  is  also  known  by  the  name  of  acid 
aromatic  tincture.  Take  cinnamon,  2  ounces; 
lesser  cardamoms,  cloves,  galanga  root,  and 
ginger,  of  each  i  ounce ;  sulphuric  acid  (spe- 
cific gravity  1.845),  1  drachm;  rectified  spirit, 
(specific  gravity  .897  to  .900),  2  pounds.  Mix 
the  acid  and  spirit,  and  pour  them  on  the 
other  ingredients  reduced  to  a  coarse  powder; 
macerate  for  8  days  in  a  close  vessel,  with 
frequent  agitation,  then  press  it  out  and  strain. 


It  should  be  of  a  brownish-red  color.     (Prus-  owin 


sian  Ph.)  Another  formula  directs  as  follows: 
Take  sweet  flag  root,  and  galanga  root,  of 
each  1  ounce  ;  ginger,  cinnamon,  cloves,  and 
nutmeg,  of  each  3  drachms  ;  lemon  peel,  4 
drachms;  white  sugar,  3  ounces;  proof  spirit, 
2  pounds;  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  3  ounces. 
Macerate  for  6  days,  then  press  and  filter,  so 
as  to  make  27  ounces.  (Austrian  Ph.) 


Elixir  of  Valerianate  of  Am- 

Extract of    valerian,  2    scruples; 


4732. 
monia. 

fluid  extract  of  valerian,  2  fluid  drachms  ;  wa- 
ter, 7  fluid  ounces.  Dissolve  the  extract  in 
the  fluid  extract  and  water,  filter,  and  add 
valerianate  of  ammonia,  2  drachms  ;  orange- 
flower  water  and  simple  syrup,  of  each  \ 
fluid  ounce.  Dose,  a  tea-spoonful. 

4733.  Goddard's  Elixir  of  Valerianate 
of  Ammonia.     Yalerianic  acid  (from    the 
root),  6  fluid  drachms  ;  carbonic  acid  water,  8 
fluid  ounces;    red  Cura9oa  cordial,  20  fluid 
ounces  ;  orange-flower  water,  8  fluid  ounces  ; 
mucilage  of  gum-arabic,  2  fluid  ounces.     Sat- 
urate the  valerianic  acid  with  sufficient  car- 
bonate of  ammonia  diluted  with  the  carbonic 
acid  water,  then  add  it  to  the  flavoring  ingre- 
dients and  mucilage,  and  filter.     Dose,  a  tea- 
spoonful. 

4734.  Moore's  Elixir  of  Valerianate 
of  Ammonia.     Take  of  valerianic  acid,  1 
fluid  ounce  ;  distilled  water,  24  fluid  ounces  ; 
inodorous   alcohol,   12  fluid  ounces;    simple 
syrup,  12  fluid  ounces;  peach  water,  8  fluid 
ounces  ;  saturated  tincture  of  red  saunders,  4 
fluid  drachms;   saturated  tincture  of  recent 
orange  peel,  1  fluid  ounce  ;   oil  of  bitter  al- 
monds, 5  minims  ;  and  oil  of  sweet  orange,  20 
minims.      Mix  the  valerianic    acid  and  the 
distilled  water,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
carbonate  of  ammonia  to  saturate  the  acid  ; 


p 

stick,  so  that  all  the  lumps  may  be  broken. 
At  the  end  of  a  week  drain  off"  the  ether,  and 
again  pour  on  as  much  more,  and  repeat  stir- 
ring it  every  day  for  a  week  longer,  when  it 
may  be  drained  off'  as  before.  Then  stop  the 
jar  tight,  and  lay  it  down  on  its  side,  so  that 
all  the  ether  that  accumulates  near  its  mouth 
may  be  drained  off,  and  repeat  doing  so  until 
the  opium  is  all  dry.  Then  expose  it  to  the 
open  air  for  a  few  days.  The  sulphuric  ether 
extracts  from  the  opium  the  narcotine  which 
is  its  most  deleterious  principle,  and  also  de- 
prives it  of  its  peculiar  noxious  odor,  so  that 
the  elixir  will  not  smell  of  it  thereafter.  Now 
to  free  the  opium  of  the  smell  of  the  ether, 
and  to  extract  its  valuable  medicinal  principles, 
boil  it  in  water,  as  follows  :  Pour  into  a  tin 
boiler  4  gallons  pure  soft  water,  and  when  hot 
(but  not  boiling),  put  in  the  opium,  when  a 


great    ebullition   will  take    place, 


it  boi 


ing  to  the  evaporation  of  the  ether. 
>oil  10  or  12  minutes,  occasionally 


which   is 
Then  let 
stirring 


it,  so  that  the  lumps  of  opium  may  be  all 
broken  and  dissolved.  Then  set  it  away  till 
the  next  day,  when  it  should  be  strained 
through  a  cloth  strainer,  and  if  there  be  not 
4  gallons  of  the  solution,  pour  on  the  residue 
of  opium  boiling  water  enough  to  make  that 
quantity  when  it  is  strained  and  clear.  "When 
in  the  state  of  watery  solution,  it  is  better  to 
be  kept  in  stone  crocks  that  will  hold  about 
2  or  3  gallons  each,  and  in  a  cool  place ;  after 
standing  5  or  G  days  the  clear  solution  should 
be  carefully  dipped  off  into  a  large  tin  can. 
The  skimmings  and  dregs  should  be  strained, 
and  when  clear  put  with  the  other.  To  this  4 
gallons  of  watery  solution,  add  5|  gallons  al- 
cohol and  stir  the  mixture  thoroughly ;  then 
cover  the  can  tight,  so  as  to  prevent  evapora- 
tion. After  standing  a  few  days,  the  clear 
elixir  may  be  carefully  dipped  off  into  another 
can,  and  the  dregs  at  the  bottom  strained, 
and,  when  clear,  poured  into  the  other.  After 
standing  undisturbed  for  a  few  weeks  it  will 
be  fit  to  use.  It  will  be  equivalent  to  lauda- 
num, both  in  its  strength  and  the  size  of  its 
dose. 

4736.  Compound  Elixir  of  Taraxa- 
cum. As  prepared  by  Mr.  Candidus  for  Dr. 
Cochran,  of  Mobile.  Reduce  the  following 
ingredients  to  a  moderately  fine  powder :  6 
ounces  taraxacum  root,  4  ounces  wild  cherry 
bark,  1  ounce  gentian  root,  2  ounces  orange 
peel,  1  ounce  cinnamon,  1  ounce  coriander  seed, 
2  drachms  each  anise,  caraway  and  cardamom 
seeds,  and  1  ounce  liquorice  root.  Dilute  suffi- 
cient alcohol  with  twice  its  bulk  of  water,  ar.d 
moisten  the  powdered  ingredients  with  ft 
ounces  of  it,  pack  in  a  conical  percolator^  and 
displace  6£  pints  with  the  diluted  alcohol. 


ELIXIRS. 


435 


A 'in  to  this  2k  pints  simple  syrup.  Dose, 
from  |  to  1  ounce.  This  elixir  is  an  excellent 
vehicle  for  quinine,  the  taste  of  which  it  com- 
pletely destroys. 

4737.  Squibb's  Ammonio-PyTOphos- 
phate  of  Iron.     Take  of  pyrophosphate  of 
soda,  4  parts  by  weight;  solution  of  tersulphate 
of  iron,  8  parts;  citric  acid,  2f  parts;  water  of 
ammonia,  6|  parts.     Dissolve  the  pyrophos- 
phate of  soda  ( which  is  prepared  by  first  drying 
and  then  calcining  common  phosphate  of  soda) 
in  60  parts  water  by  means  of  heat ;  cool  the 
solution  to  50°  Fahr.  and  filter  it  into  a  bottle 
of  the  capacity  of  250  parts.     Then  add  the  so- 
lution of  tersulphate  of  iron  (see  No.  4816), 
shake  the  mixture  well,  fill  the  bottle  up  with 
water,  again  agitate  it,  and  set  it  aside  for  24 
hours  to  settle.     Decant  the  clear  liquid  from 
the  precipitate  by  means  of  a  syphon,  and  re- 
peat the  washing  and  decantation  twice.   Then 
pour  the  precipitate  upon  a  strainer,  drain  it 
for  24  hours  and  transfer  to  a  tarred  porcelain 
basin.     Upon  the  citric  acid,  contained  in  a 
suitable  vessel,  pour  the  solution  of  ammonia, 
a  little  at  a  time,  with  constant  stirring,  till 
the  crystals  are  dissolved  and  the  acid  accu- 
rately saturated.     Then  add  this  solution  to 
the  precipitate  in  the  basin,  and  apply  heat. 
Stir  the  mixture  constantly  till  perfectly  dis- 
solved, and  evaporate  the  solution  to  24  parts; 
then  filter  through  paper.     Finally  pour  the 
solution  upon  plates,  dry  the  salt  by  a  mod- 
erate heat,  and  keep  it  in  well-closed  bottles. 
The  yield  is  a  little  more  than  7£  parts.     The 
salt  is  deliquescent,  in  the  form  of  pale  yellow- 
ish green  scales. 

4738.  Ammonio-Ferric   Alum.     This 
elegant  styptic    remedy    has    recently    been 
much  prescribed,  especially  in  leucorrhoea;  it  is 
made  as  follows :  Take  of  crystallized  protosul- 
phate  of  iron,  8  ounces;  sulphuric  acid,  7  fluid 
drachms;  nitric  acid,  li  fluid  ounces;  sulphate 
of  ammonia,  18  drachms.     Boil  the  sulphate 
of  iron  in  2  pints  water  and  add  to  it  the  sul- 
phuric acid ;  when   dissolved,  add  the  nitric 
acid  gradually,    boiling  for  a  minute  or  two 
after  each  addition,  until  the  nitric  acid  ceases 
to  produce  a  black  color;   boil  violently,  to 
separate  deutoxide  of  nitrogen,  and  reduce 
the  liquid  to  about  one  half,  then  add  the  sul- 
phate of  ammonia  and  a  little  sulphuric  acid 
and  set  it  aside  to  crystallize.     "Wash  the  crys- 
tals thoroughly  in  a  little  cold  water  to  which 
a   small  portion  of  sulphuric  acid   has  been 
added.     This  salt   is  in  elegant  violet-tinted 
crystals.     Its  peculiar  merit  consists  in  its 
marked  astringency  without  the  stimulating 
properties  of  some  of  this  class  of  salts.    It 
is  easily  assimilated  when  taken  internally. 
Dose,  3  to  6   grains,   and   while  it  controls 
excessive   discharges,  is  often  useful  in  cor- 
recting their  cause.     Though  called  an  alum, 
this  salt  contains  no  alumina  ;  it  is  similar  to 
the    double    sulphate   of   potassa    and    iron, 
which    is    called    iron    alum,    but    is    more 
soluble. 

4739.  Concentrated  Infusion  of 
Roses.  Rose  petals  or  leaves,  3  pounds; 
boiling  water,  2  gallons  ;  infuse  2  hours,  with 
constant  agitation,  then  press  out  the  liquor 
in  a  very  clean  tincture  press,  strain  through 
flannel  or  a  hair  sieve,  add  diluted  sulphuric 
acid,  24  fluid  ounces,  agitate  well,  and  filter 
through  paper  supported  on  coarse  muslin; 


lastly,  add  6  pounds  finest  white  sugar  broken 
up  into  small  lumps,  but  perfectly  free  from 
dust  and  dirt.  When  dissolved,  put  the  in- 
fusion into  clean,  stoppered  green  glass  bot- 
tles, and  keep  it  from  the  light  in  a  cool  place. 
Product  very  superior. 

Or :  Take  rose  leaves,  acid,  and  cold  water, 
as  last,  mix,  and  infuse  for  48  hours  in  a 
clean,  covered,  earthenware  vessel,  then  press 
out  the  liquid  with  the  hands,  filter,  and  add 
the  sugar  as  before.  Product  very  tine,  and, 
keeps  well.  In  employing  the  first  formula, 
care  should  be  taken  that  the  utensils  be  per- 
fectly clean,  especially  the  press,  and  earthen- 
ware glazed  with  lead  should  be  avoided. 
The  pressing  should  also  be  conducted  as 
rapidly  as  possible,  to  avoid  the  color  being 
injured  by  the  iron,  though  clean  iron  does 
not  readily  injure  infusion  of  roses  before  the 
addition  of  the  acid.  Should  not  the  infusion 
filter  quite  clear  through  paper,  the  addition 
of  the  whites  of  2  or  3  eggs,  diluted  with  2  or 
3  ounces  of  water,  followed  by  violent  agita- 
tion of  the  liquid  for  a  few  minutes,  and  re- 
pose for  1  or  2  hours,  will  usually  render  it 
fine,  when  it  may  either  be  decanted  or  fil- 
tered should  it  reqxvire  it.  It  will  now  pass 
rapidly  through  ordinary  filtering  paper,  and 
at  once  ran  clear. 

4740.  Elixir  of  Vitriol.     Called    also 
aromatic  sulphuric  acid.    In  order  that  elixir 
of  vitriol  may  be  miscible  with  water  without 
precipitation,   aromatics  of  an  oleo-resinous 
nature  cannot  be  used.      Add    gradually  3 
troy  ounces  sulphuric  acid  to  £  pint  alcohol, 
and  pour  1  fluid  ounce  boiling  water  on  2 
drachms  red  rose  leaves ;  when  both  liquids 
have  become  cool,  add  1  fluid  ounce  fluid  ex- 
tract of  orange-peel,  and  add  alcohol  enough 
to  make  the  whole  up  to  18  fluid  ounces. 
Mix  and  filter.    Elixir  of  vitriol  thus  prepared 
has  a  pleasant  aromatic  odor  and  flavor,  and 
the  beautiful  red  color  of  the  rose  leaves, 
heightened  by  the  presence  of  the  acid.    It  is 
miscible  with  water  without  turbidity,  and  a 
specimen,  after  long  keeping,  has  deposited 
but  a  trace  of  sediment. 

4741.  Alcoholized   Sulphuric  Acid. 
To  3  parts  rectified  spirits,  add,  very  gradually, 
1  part  sulphuric  acid.    It  is  usually  colored 
by  letting  it  stand  over  a  little  cochineal. 
Its  properties  are  internally  refrigerant,  ex- 
ternally   caustic.      As    a   refrigerant,    it   is 
administered  in  doses  of  -J-  fluid  drachm  to  1 
pint  water. 

4742.  Cantharidal  Collodion.    Take  8 
troy    ounces    finely    powdered    cantharides, 
press  it  firmly  in  a  cylindrical  percolator,  and 
pour  on  it  1£  pints  stronger  ether.    When  15 
fluid  ounces  have  passed,  set  the  liquid  aside 
in  a  close  vessel,  and  continue  percolation 
with  stronger  alcohol  until  £  pint  more  liquid 
is  obtained.     Set  this  last  aside  to  evaporate 
spontaneously  until  reduced  to  1  fluid  ounce ; 
then  mix  it  with  the  reserved  liquid.    Next 
add  100  grains  dry  collodion  cotton  (see  next 
receipt),  and  agitate  until  dissolved.     ( U.  S. 
Ph.) 

4743.  To  Prepare  Gun  Cotton   for 
Collodion.     To  10  troy  ounces  nitrate  of  po- 
tassa, add  154  troy  ounces  sulphuric  acid,  and 
stir  until  uniformly  mixed.      When   cooled 
below  122°  Fahr.,  add  i  troy  ounce  cotton, 
freed  from  impurities,  stirring  with  a  glass 


4:36 


MEDICATED    WATERS. 


rod ;  cover  the  vessel  closely,  and,  after  stand- 
ing 24  hours,  transfer  the  cotton  to  a  larger 
vessel,  and  wash  it,  first  with  cold  water  until 
the  washings  cease  to  have  an  acid  taste,  and 
then  wash  with  boiling  water.  Press  it  as 
dry  as  possible  with  the  hand,  pack  it  tightly 
in  a  conical  percolator,  and  pour  on  it 
stronger  alcohol  until  the  remaining  water  is 
displaced.  Lastly,  press  it  as  dry  as  possible 
with  the  hand.  The  cotton  thus  prepared, 
and  dried  at  a  temperature  of  212°,  weighs 
336  grains. 

4744.  To  Prepare  Collodion.    Mix  21 
fluid  ounces  stronger  ether  with  6  fluid  oun- 
ces stronger  alcohol  in  a  suitable  bottle,  add 
the  quantity  of  moist  prepared  cotton  (as  pre- 
pared in  the  preceding  receipt),  and  shake 
occasionally  until  dissolved. 

4745.  Morphia  Collodion.    Collodion, 
30  parts;  muriate  of  morphia,  1  part.    Ap- 
plied to  the  affected  parts  in  obstinate  neu- 
ralgia. 

4746.  To   Administer    Hydrate    of 
Chloral.     Physicians  should  prescribe  only 
the  crystals,  and  should  be  very  certain  that 
thej-  are  pure.   The  taste  of  hydrate  of  chloral 
is  quite  unpleasant,   but  orange-juice   com- 
pletely covers  it,   and  so  does   peppermint 
water  or  essence  of  peppermint.     If  taken  in 
aqueous  solution,  let  the  patient  be  directed 
to  suck  the  juice  of  an  orange  immediately 
after  swallowing  the  dose,  or  mix  with  the 
solution  a  little  peppermint  water,  with  syrup 
of  tolu.    The  following  is  a  good  formula: 
Take  chloral  hydrate,  1  drachm ;  peppermint 
water,  \  ounce;  syrup  tolu,  4  ounce;  water, 
2  ounces.     Dose,  from  -J-  ounce  to  2  ounces,  as 
may  be  required.     The  mixture  should  not  be 
prepared  in  large  quantities,  nor  be  kept  for 
any  length  of  time. 

4747.  Improved  Formula  for  Chalk 
Mixture.     To  obviate  unpleasant  and  dan- 
gerous souring  of  chalk  mixture  as  commonly 
prepared,  glycerine  may  be  substituted  for  the 
sugar,   according  to  the   following  formula: 
Take  of  prepared  chalk  and  glycerine,  of  each 
|  ounce ;  pure  gum  acacia,  2  drachms ;  cinna- 
mon water  and  pure  water,  of  each  4  ounces. 
Rub  well  together  until  thoroughly  mixed. 
This  mixture  will  keep  during  a  whole  sum- 
mer.   The  glycerine  exerts  a  positively  sooth- 
ing effect  upon  the  bowels,  as  well  as  in  some 
degree  arresting  fermentation. 

4748.  Phosphorated  Ether.    Dissolve 
2  grains  phosphorus  in  ^  drachm  oil  of  pepper- 
mint ;  when  dissolved  add  sulphuric  ether,  \ 
fluid  ounce ;  mix  well.     Dose,  2  to  6  drops. 
This  was  recommended  by  Augustin  in  epi- 
lepsy, paralysis,  and  other  like  nervous  affec- 
tions. 

4749.  Compound    Spirit    of    Ether. 
This  preparation  is  known  by  the  name  of 
Hoffmann's  Anodyne,  and  consists  of  £  pint 
ether,   1   pint  alcohol,   and  G  fluid  drachms 
ethereal  oil. 

4750.  Moore's  Extract  of  Black  Co- 
hosh.      Moisten  black   cohosh    root   (black 
snake-root,  or  cimicifuga  racemosa)  in  No.  SO 
powder,  with  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  pack 
closely  in  a  displacer ;  add  gradually  more  of 
the  alcohol  until  the  resinous  portion  is  ex- 
hausted ;  evaporate  the   alcoholic  portion  to 
dryness,   powder    the  product    and    pass    it 
through  a  fine  sieve.     Proceed  to  displace 


with  diluted  alcohol  (1  part  alcohol  to'  2  of 
water)  until  the  root  is  perfectly  exhausted, 
evaporate  the  resulting  product  over  a  water- 
bath  until  it  is  of  nearly  the  required  consist- 
ence of  a  good  extract,  then  mix  the  pow- 
dered resinous  portion,  while  the  fluid  is  still 
warm,  and  stir  constantly  until  cold.  In  this 
way  the  resin  is  intimately  and  smoothly 
mixed  with  the  extractive  portion ;  is  much 
more  readily  rubbed  down  with  aqueous  solu- 
tions, and  contains  all  the  active  ingredients 
of  the  root ;  but,  however  carefully  prepared, 
change  of  temperature  is  liable  to  separate  the 
resin  more  or  less  from  the  extract. 

4751.  Procter's  Alcoholic  Extract  of 
Arnica.      Take  arnica  flowers,    12  ounces, 
troy;  alcohol,  3  pints;  water,  1   pint.     Mix 
the  alcohol  and  water,  and  pour  2  pints  of  the 
mixture    over  the   arnica,   previously   finely 
bruised.    Allow  it  to  stand  for  48  hours,  pack 
it  firmly  in  a  percolator,  and  pour  on  the  re- 
mainder of  the  mixture  until  3  pints  are  ob- 
tained.    Evaporate  this  tincture  in  a  water- 
bath  (or  still)  till  reduced  to  a  soft  resinous 
extract. 

4752.  Medicated  Oils.     These  are  pre- 
pared by  infusion  or  decoction.     The  bruised 
ingredients  are  either  simply  digested  in  2  to 
4  times  their  weight  of  olive  oil  for  some 
days,  or  they  are  gently  boiled  in  it  until 
they  become  dry  and  crisp,  care  being  taken 
that  the  heat  towards  the  end  of  the  process 
is  not  greater  than  that  of  boiling  water.    As 
soon  as  either  process  is  complete,  the  oil  is 
allowed  to  drain  from  the  ingredients,  which 
may  be,  if  necessary,  submitted  to  the  action 
of  a  press.    The  product  is  usually  strained 
through  flannel  or  a  hair  sieve  while   still 
warm,  and,  after  standing  a  week  or  10  days 
to  settle,  the  clear  portion  is  decanted  from 
the  dregs.   Green  plants  are  usually  employed 
for  this  purpose,  but  in  many  cases  the  dried 
plants,  reduced  to  powder,  and  digested  for  6 
or  8  hours  in  the  oil  at  the  heat  of  hot  water, 
with  frequent  agitation,  yield  a  much  more 
valuable  product.     These  oils  are  nearly  all 
employed  as  external  applications  only. 

The  oil  is  obtained  from  the  following,  in 
the  green  state :  Balsam  apple,  the  seeds 
first  taken  out;  belladonna  leaves;  elder 
flowers;  fox  glove  leaves;  garden  night- 
shade leaves  ;  fox  glove  leaves ;  garlic ;  hem- 
lock leaves ;  henbane  leaves ;  juniper  berries, 
crushed ;  white  lilies ;  poison  oak  leaves ; 
roses,  the  petals  of  the  flowers ;  fresh  rue ;  St. 
John's  wort  flowers ;  fresh  tobacco  leaves. 

Others  are  used  dry,  and  reduced  to  pow- 
der, such  as:  Cantharides  (Spanish  flies);  cap- 
sicums; dried  chamomile  flowers;  fenugreek 
seeds;  marsh-mallow  root;  mudar  bark; 
opium ;  pellitory  root ;  black  pepper,  <fec. 


Medicated  Waters.  These 
are  aqueous  solutions  of  different  sub- 
stances for  medicinal  and  other  purposes. 
The  methods  of  preparing  them  generally 
require  special  arrangements  to  dissolve  the 
oils,  <frc..  otherwise  insoluble  in  water.  (See 
No.  1070,  <fe.) 

4754.     Camphor  Water.     Pulverize  120 
grains  camphor  iu  a  mortar  with  40  minims 


SOLUTIONS. 


4:37 


alcohol;  triturate  it  first  with  £  troy  ounce 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  then  with  2  pints  dis- 
tilled water,  added  gradually.  Filter  through 
paper.  (U.  S.  Ph.) 

4755.  Bitter  Almond  Water.  Rub  16 
minims  oil  of  bitter  almonds  with  1  drachm 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  adding  2  pints  wa- 
ter gradually.  Filter  through  paper.  (  U.  S. 
Ph.) 

4756.  Cinnamon    "Water.      Treat    k 
fluid  drachm  oil  of  cinnamon  in  the  same 
manner  as  in  the  last  receipt.    Or,  by  distilling 
18  troy  ounces  coarsely  powdered  cinnamon 
in  16  pints  water,  preserving  only  the  first  8 
pints  of  the  distillate.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4757.  Fennel    Water.     Treat    h    fluid 
draahin  oil  of  fennel  in  the  same  way  as  last 
receipt.     Or,   by   distillation   from  fennel  in 
coarse  powder.     (  U.  S.  Ph.) 

4758.  Peppermint  Water.     Same    as 
last,  using  3  fluid  drachm  oil  of  peppermint, 
or  13  troy  ounces  peppermint.     (  U.  S.  Pit.) 

4759.  Spearmint   Water.      Same    as 
last,  from  oil  of  spearmint. 

4760.  Lime   Water.     Take  of  lime,  2 
ounces ;  distilled  water,  2  quarts.    Slack  the 
lime  with  a  little  of  the  water ;  pour  on  the 
remainder  of  the   water  and  stir  -  them  to- 
gether;  then  immediately  cover  the  vessel 
and  let  it  rest  for  4  hours.    Keep  the  solution, 
with  the  undissolved  lime,  in  glass-stoppered 
bottles,  and  when  wanted  for  use,  pour  off 
the  clear  liquor.     It  ij  an  anti-acid  tonic,  kills 
worms,  and  frees  the  bowels  from  slimy  and 
morbific  matter.     It  promotes  digestion;  it  is 
valuable  in  looseness,  scrofula,  diabetes,  and 
whites.     Mixed  with  a  decoction  of  Peruvian 
bark,  it  wonderfully  strengthens  the  debilita- 
ted, and  those  threatened  with  atrophy. 

4761.  Lobelia  Water.     Lobelia  leaves 
and  capsules,    or   powder,  1   ounce ;   boiling 
water,  4  pint;  brandy,  J  pint.     Infuse  a  week 
Good  for  sore  and  inflamed  eyes,  erysipelas, 
ringworms,  &c. 

4762.  Fever  Drink.      The  juice  of  a 
lemon ;  cream  of  tartar,  1  tea-spoonful ;  wa- 
ter, 1  pint.     Sweeten  with  loaf  sugar.     "When 
the  patient  is  thirsty,  let  him  drink  freely. 

4763.  Saline    Mixture.      Take    fresh 
lemon  juice,  1 5  ounces;  carbonate  of  potassa, 
1  drachm ;  white  sugar,  3  drachms ;  pure  wa- 
ter,  12   ounces;    essence   of  peppermint,   30 
drops.     Mix.     A  tea-cupful  to  be  taken  often 
in  inflammatory  fevers  and  sore  throat. 

4764.  Tar  Water.    Take  of  tar,  2  pints; 
water,  1  gallon.     Mix,  by  stirring  them  with 
a  wooden  rod  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and, 
after  the  tar  has  subsided,  strain  the  liquor, 
and  keep  it  in  well-corked-phials.     Tar-water 
should  have  the  color  of  white  wine,  and  an 
empyreumatic  taste.     It  is  frequently  used 
as  a  remedy  in  chronic  bronchitis.     It  acts  as 
a  stimulant,  raising  the  pulse  and  increasing 
the  discharge   by  the  skin  and  kidneys.     It 
may  be  drunk  to  the  extent  of  a  pint  or  two 
in  the  course  of  a  day. 

4765.  Tar  Water.     M.  Magnes  Lahens 
suggests  a  method  of  preparing  this  water, 
which   is   more   expeditious   and   convenieni 
than  the  plan  commonly  followed.     He  mixes 
the  tar   with   sand,   previously  washed   anc 
dried,  throws  the  mixture  into  a  percolator, 
and  shakes  the  instrument  gently  to  secure 
proper  adjustment  of  the  mixture.    Water  i 


;hen  poured  on,  the  first  part  of  the  filtrate  is 
rejected,  and  the  latter  portion  is  kept  for  use. 
Be  uses  £  ounce  tar  and  26  ounces  of  sand  to 
obtain  2  pints  of  the  medicated  water,  which 
orresponds  in  strength  with  that  of  the  Paris 
codex. 

4766.  Camphor  Water.     Take  J  ounce 
of  camphor  and  enclose  it  with  a  glass  marble 
in  a  muslin  bag;  put  this  into  a  wide-mouthed 
bottle,  such  a  one  as  is  used  for  preserved 
fruit.     Now  fill  up  the  bottle  with  water  that 
bas  boiled  a  few  minutes  and  has  been  allowed 
to  become  cold.     The  glass  marble  is  used  to 
keep  the  camphor   from  floating,  which  it 
otherwise  would  do.     After  about  3  days  tho 
water  will  become  saturated  with  the  camphor, 
and  may  bo  poured  off  as  required.    A  wine- 
glassful  is  a  dose.    It  is  very  useful  as  an 
anti-spasmodic  in  hysteric  and  nervous  affec- 
tions. 

4767.  Barley  Water.    Wash  away  with 
cold  water  all  extraneous  matter  from  2  oun- 
ces pearl  barley ;  then  boil  for  a  short  time  in 
J  pint  water,  throw  this  away,  and  boil  the 
parboiled  barley  in  4  pints  water  down  to  2 
pints,  and  strain. 

4768.  Distilled  Water.    Take  10  gal- 
lons of  spring  water;   distill  it,  rejecting  the 
first  quart  that  comes  over,  and  preserving 
the  next  8  gallons  of  the  remainder. 


SollltiOIlS.    In  pharmacy,  a  solution 
consists  of  water    in  which  a  certain 
fixed  quantity  of   a  soluble  substance  has 
been  dissolved.     (Sec  No.  29). 

4770.  Solution  of  Acetate  of  Mor- 
phia.    Mix  4   drachms   acetate  of  morphia 
with  15  drops  acetic  acid,  1  pint  distilled  wa- 
ter, and  h  pint  proof  spirit.     Dose,  from  5  to 
20  drops." 

4771.  Solution  of  Sulphate  of  Mor- 
phia.    Dissolve  1  grain  sulphate  of  morphia 
in  1  fluid  ounce  distilled  water.     Dose,  1  tea- 
spoonful,  used  in  the  same  cases  as  opium 

4772.  Compound  Solution  of  Alum. 
Rub  together  1  ounce  each  alum  and  sulphate 
of  zinc;  dissolve  in  3  pints  boiling  water.     If 
necessary,    filter.      This    is    detergent    and 
astringent,  and  is  used  as  a  lotion  for  old  ulcers, 
excoriations  <fcc.;  and,  largely  diluted  with  wa- 
ter, as  an  eye-wash  and  injection. 

4773.  Solution  of  Ammonio-Nitrate 
of  Silver.      Dissolve  44  grains  pure  crystal- 
lized nitrate  of  silver  in  1  fluid  ounce  distilled 
water;  add  gradually  ammonia  water  until 
the  precipitate  at  first  thrown  down  is  very 
nearly,  but  not  entirely,   redissolved.     This 
solution  is  used  as  a  test  for  arsenious  acid, 
in  combination  with  which  it  forms  a  yellow 
precipitate,  arsenite  of  silver. 

4774.  Solution  of  Chloride  of  Bar- 
ium.    Dissolve  1  drachm  chloride  of  barium 
in  1  fluid  ounce  water,  and  filter  tho  solution. 
Dose,  5  drops,  gradually  increased  to  10  or  12 
drops,  2  or  3  times  a  day,  for  scrofula,  scir- 
rhous  affections,  and  worms.    Is  used  external- 
ly, largely  diluted,  as  a  lotion  in  scrofulous  oph- 
thalmia f  also  as  a  test  for  sulphuric  acid  and 
the  soluble  sulphates,  in  contact  with  which  it 
makes   a  heavy  white  precipitate,  insoluble 
in  either  hydrochloric  or  nitric  acid.      It  is 


438 


SOL  UTIONS. 


said  to  detect  the  presence  of  TtruTro-  part  of 
sulphuric  acid. 

4775.  Solution  of  Diacetate  of  Lead 
— sometimes  called  Extract  of  Lead.     Boil  27 
ounces  acetate  of  lead,  and  16  ounces  finely 
powdered  litharge,  in  3  quarts  water  for  i  an 
hour,  constantly  stirring;  then  add  sufficient 
distilled  water  to  make  up  3  quarts.    If  re- 
quired, filter,  and  keep  in  a  closed  vessel. 
This  solution  is  almost  the  same  in  strength 
and  preparation  as  the  solution  ofsubacetate 
of  lead  of  the  TJ.  S.  Pharmacopeia. 

4776.  Goulard's    Water  or    Lotion. 
Mix  Is  fluid  drachms  diacetate  of  lead  with  2 
fluid  drachms  proof  spirits  and  1  pint  distilled 
water.      This  lotion  is  sedative,  refrigerant, 
and  astringent.     This  is  the  dilute  solution  of 
diacetate  (or  subacetate)  of  lead. 

4777.  Donovan's  Arsenic  and  Mer- 
cury Solution.      Triturate  6  grains  finely 
powdered  pure  arsenic,  16  grains  pure  mer- 
cury, and  50 \    grains    pure  iodine,  with   \ 
fluid  drachm  alcohol,   until  dry ;  then  add 
gradually  8  fluid  ounces  water,  triturating 
constantly ;  heat  the  mixture  in  a  flask  until 
it  begins  to  boil,  and,  when  cold  and  filtered, 
add  sufficient  water  to  make  up  to  8  fluid 
ounces  6  fluid  drachms.     Dose  10  to  30  drops, 
2  or  3  times  a  day,  soon  after  a  meal,  for  scaly 
skin  diseases. 

4778.  Standard  Solution  of  Chloride 
of  Calcium.      Dissolve    carefully  2    grains 
pure  carbonate  of  lirno  in  a  little  pure  hydro- 
chloric acid;  evaporate  the  solution  to  dry- 
ness,  and  dissolve  the  residuum  in  1  pint  pure 
water.     This  forms  the  standard  solution  of 
16°  of  hardness.     1  measure  of  this  solution 
mixed  with  15  of  water  constitutes  a  solution 
of  1°  of  hardness ;  2  measures  of  it  with  14  of 
water  make  a  solution  of  2°  of  hardness  &c. 
This  solution  is  the  standard  used  in  testing 
the  hardness  of  water. 

4779.  Solution  of  Iodide   of  Potas- 
sium.    Dissolve  10   grains  iodide  of  potas- 
sium and  5   grains  iodine   in   1   pint  water. 
Dose,  2  to  6  grains  in  the  usual  case  where 
iodine  is  employed. 

4780.  Solution  of  Chloride   of  Cal- 
cium.    Dissolve  4  ounces  fused  (or  8  ounces 
crystallized)  chloride  of  calcium,  in  12  ounces 
wator,  and  filter.     Dose  from  10  drops  to  2 
drachms,   far    scrofulous    tumors,   &c.;    also 
used  as  a  tcvt  for  sulphuric  acid,  in  contact 
with  which  i  t  throws  down  a  white  precipi- 
tate insoluble  in  nitric  acid. 

4781.  Solution  of  Sulphate  of  Mor- 
phia.    Dissolve  16  grains  sulphate  of  mor- 
phia in  4  drops  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  1  fluid 
ounce   water,   and   1   fl»id   drachm  rectified 
spirit.     Dose,  5  to  10  drops. 

4782.  Solution  of  Nitrate  of  Baryta. 
Dissolve  4  grains    nitrate   of   baryta  in  80 
grains  water.    This  is  used  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  chloride  of  barium  (sec  No.  4774)  for 
testing  sulphuric  acid,  with  the  same  results. 

4783.  Solution  of  Nitrate  of  Silver. 
Dissolve  1  drachm  crystals  of  nitrate  of  silver 
in  1  fluid  ounce  distilled  water.    It  must  be 
protected  from  the  action  of  light.     This  is. 
employed  as  a  test  for  soluble  chlorides,  any 
of  which,  slightly  acidulated  with  nitric  acid, 
will  give  a  white,  curdy  precipitate   (chloride 
of  silver)  when  brought  m  contact  with  dilu- 
ted nitrate  of  silver. 


4784.  Liquor  of  Potassa;   Solution 
of  Potash;  Soft-Soap  Lye.     Take  1  gallon 
boiling 'distilled  water;  use  sufficient  of  this  to 
slack   8  ounces  recently  burnt  lime  in   an 
earthen  vessel ;  in  the  remainder  of  the  wa- 
ter dissolve  15  ounces  carbonate  of  potassa, 
and  add  the  slacked  lime.      Cork  the  mixture 
closely  in  a  vessel,  and  shake  it  frequently  un- 
til cold,  then  allow  it  to  settle  and  decant  the 
clear  liquid  into  clean,  well-stoppered  green- 
glass  bottles.     Liquor  of  potassa  is  antacid, 
diuretic,  and  resolvent.     In  indigestion,  acid 
eructations,  heartburn,  &c.,  it  may  be  taken 
with   great  benefit.     It  neutralizes  the  acid, 
and  counteracts  the  morbid  tendency  of  the 
stomach  to  acid  secretion.     Dose,  10  drops, 
gradually  increased  to  40.     It  is  powerfully 
poisonous,  and   should  be  greatly  diluted  in 
anything  not  acidulous.     When  pure,  it  does 
not  effervesce  with  acids,  nor  give  a  precipi- 
tate with  lime-water,    or  with  a  solution  of 
oxalate  of  ammonia.     (See  No.  101). 

4785.  Liquor  of  Soda;   Solution  of 
Soda ;  Soda  Lye ;   Hard-Soap  Lye ;  &c. 
The  proportions  are,  crystallized  caibonate  of 
soda,  32  ounces  (troy)  ;  recent  quicklime,   9 
ounces  (troy);  boiling  water,    1  gallon;  the 
lime  being  slacked  with  a  little  of  the  water. 
The  product  is  stated  to  have  specific  gravity 
1.081,   and  to  contain  about  5  per  cent,  of 
pure  caustic  soda.     The  process  by  which 
the  above  is  made  is  similar  to  that  noticed 
under  "  Liquor  of  Potassa."     The  test  of  its 
purity,  and  uses,  are  also  the  same.   (Sec  Nos. 
4784  and  102.) 

4786.  Solution  of  Chloride  of  Lime. 
This  solution,  usually  called  bleaching  liquor, 
is  prepared  of  1  part  chloride  of  lime  to  10 
parts  of  distilled  water   (both  by  weight). 
That  is,  2  ounces  to  the  pint,  or  1  pound  to 
the  gallon.     This  is  the  ordinary  strength  of 
that  of  the  shops;  but  in  that  which  is  sold 
as  Concentrated  Solution  of  Chloride  of  Lime, 
the  proportions  are   usually  3   parts  of  the 
chloride  to  20  of  water.     That  is,  1-J-  pounds 
per  gallon.     The   British    Pharmacopoeia  di- 
rects the  chloride  to  be  triturated   with  the 
water  iu  a  wedgwood-ware  or  porcelain  mor- 
tar, and  having  transferred  the  whole  to  a 
stoppered  bottle,  to  be  well  shaken,  several 
times,  for  the  space  of  3  hours  ;  lastly,  the 
solution  is  to  bo  filtered  through  muslin,  and 
preserved  in  a  stoppered  bottle.     The  specific 

gravity  of  that  of  the  Pharmacopoeia  is  1.035. 
n  the  large  scale,  the  ingredients  are  usually 
placed  in  a  carboy,  or  a  stone-ware  bottle, 
which  they  will  only  f  or  £  fill,  and,  after 
being  corked  or  bunged  close,  agitated  fre- 
quently for  a  day  or  two.  A  cork  or  bung 
of  bees'-wax  or  gutta-percha  should  be  used 
for  the  purpose,  unless  the  vessel  is  a  stop- 
pered one.  Alter  repose  for  2  or  3  days,  the 
clear  portion  is  decanted  through  a  funnel 
choked  with  crushed  glass  into  bottles.  The 
last  should  be  closely  corked  (preferably  stop- 
pered), and  kept  in  a  cool  and  dark  place. 
Nothing  metallic  should  be  allowed  to  conic 
in  contact  with  it.  (See  No.  104.)  A  better 
plan  of  filtering  the  above  is  as  follows  :  The 
neck  of  the  funnel  should  be  choked  with 
some  fragments  of  broken  glass,  over  which 
a  layer  of  smaller  ones  should  be  placed,  and, 
over  all,  a  thick  layer  of  coarsely  powdered 
This  is  all  the  filtration  necessary,  and 


SOLUTIONS. 


439 


is  much  superior  to  that  ordered  in  the  Phar- 
macopoeia, as  the  contact  with  the  muslin, 
and  the  longer  exposure,  weaken  the  solution. 
The  U.  S.  Pharmacopeia  directs  the  solution 
of  chloride  of  liine  to  be  prepared  by  mixing 
12  troy  ounces  muriatic  acid  with  3  pint  dis- 
tilled water ;  gradually  adding  6  troy  ounces 
marble  in  small  pieces.  Towards  the  close  of 
the  effervesence,  apply  a  gentle  heat,  and, 
Then  the  action  has  ceased,  pour  off  the 
c'iear  liquid,  and  evaporate  to  dryness.  Dis- 
so'.ve  the  residue  in  H  times  its  \veight  of 
distilled  water,  and  filter  through  paper. 

4787.  Solution  of  Chloride  of  Potash. 
This  solution  is  also  known  as  Javetle's  Bleach- 
ing Liquid  ;  Eau  do  Javelle,  &c.     This  is  best 
maae  by  passing  gaseous  chlorine  into  a  solu- 
tion of  1  part  of  carbonate  of  potash  in  10 
parts  of  water,  until  the  gas  ceases  to  be 
absorbed.     It  may  also  bo  made  by  adding 
a  solut'on  of  carbonate  of  potash  to  a  solution 
of  chloride  of  lime,  with  agitation,  as  long  as 
a  precipitate  forms ;  the  liquid  being  after- 
wards decanted  or  filtered.     These  processes 
are  precisely  similar  to  that  for  the  soda  solu- 
tion, an  squivalent  portion  of  carbonate  of 
potash  be.ng  used.     (Sec  No$.  4788,  tfc.) 

4788.  Solution  of  Chloride  of  Soda. 
Also  variously  called  Solution  of  Chlorinated 
Soda;    Sohtion  of  Ht/pochlorite  of  Soda; 
Labarraque's    Disinfecting    Fluid;    Eau  dc 
Labarraque.    Take  of  crystallized  carbonate 
of  soda,  12  ounces  avoirdupois ;  distilled  wa- 
ter,  1  Impe-ial    quart;    dissolve,   and    pass 
through    the  solution   the  chlorine  evolved 
from  a  mixtv.ro  of  common  salt,  4  ounces ; 
binoxide  of  n_anganese,  3  ounces ;  sulphuric 
acid,  2k  fluid  ounces,  previously  diluted  with 
3  fluid  ounces  water,  heated  in  a  retort  to- 
gether, and  the  gas  purified  by  passing  through 
a  wash  bottle  containing  5  ounces  water,  be- 
fore it  enters  the  soda  solution. 

4789.  Solution  of  Chloride  of  Soda. 
To  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime  (formed  of 
chloride  of  lime,   i  pound ;   water,  3  pints), 
add  a  solution  t.f  carbonate  of  soda  (formed 
of  carbonate  of  soda,  crystallized,  7  ounces ; 
water,  1  pint),  and,  after  agitation  for  about 
10  minutes,  decant  or  filter,  and  preserve  the 
filtrate  in  a  well-stoppered  bottle,  and  in  a 
cool  and  dark  place.     This  is  the  formula  of 
the  Dublin   Pharmacopoeia,  and   often  more 
convenient  than  tlie  preceding  one.     A  writer 
in  Boettger's  Jfotizblatt  recommends  that  in 
preparing  this  solution  from  chloride  of  lime, 
bicarbonate  of  soda  be  used  in  place  of  sal- 
soda.     There  is  no  question  but  that  the  pre- 
cipitate will  bo  much  less  bulky,  and  more  of 
the  liquid  will  be  recovered  in  a  concentrated 
form  by  decantation. 

4790.  Solution  of  Ammonio-Sul- 
phate  of  Copper.  Dissolve  1  drachm  of 
the  arnmonio-sulphate  in  1  pint  water,  and 
filter.  This  is  stimulant  and  detergent.  Ap- 
plied as  a  lotion  to  indolent  ulcers ;  and, 
largely  diluted,  to  remove  specks  on  the 
cornea.  Also  used  as  a  test  for  arsenical 
compounds,  with  which  it  throws  down  a 
green  precipitate. 

4791.  Solution  of  Indigo.  Place  a 
stone- ware  vessel  containing  8  parts  oil  of 
vitriol  iu  a  tub  of  very  cold  water ;  add  1  part 
fine  powdered  indigo  very  gradually,  to  pre- 
vent the  mixture  from  heating.  The  mixture 


should  be  stirred  occasionally  with  a  glass 
rod ;  and,  when  the  solution  is  complete, 
allow  it  to  repose  for  48  hours.  Then  dilute 
with  twice  its  weight  of  soft  water,  n elding 
this  also  very  gradually,  to  prevent  heating. 
This  precaution  is  necessary  to  prevent  partial 
decomposition  of  the  indigo,  which  would 
result  in  the  formation  of  sulphurous  acid 
and  indigo  green.  This  is  the  sulphate  of 
indigo  or  liquid  Vine  of  trade.  This  solution 
is  preferably  prepared  by  using  5  parts  fuming 
sulphuric  acid  instead  of  the  8  parts  oil  of 
vitriol.  (See  No.  98.) 

4792.  Solution  of  Carbonate  of  Am- 
monia.     This  is  prepared  by  dissolving  1 
part  sublimed  carbonate  of  ammonia  in  3 
parts  water,   and  adding  1  part    ammonia- 
water.    Used  in  chemical  analyses,  and  as 
a  very  delicate  test  for  the  presence  of  lime, 
from  a  solution  of  which  it  forms  a  white  pre- 
cipitate soluble  in  nitric  or  hydrochloric  acid. 

4793.  Solution  of  Sulphuretted  Hy- 
drogen.     Pass  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas 
through  cold  distilled  water,  recently  boiled, 
until  it  will  absorb  no  more.     Keep  in  small 
bottles  securely  stoppered. 

4794.  Solution  of  Santonin.     The  in- 
solubility of  santonin  in  water  impairs  its 
utility  as  a  vermifuge.    "Water,  cold  or  warm, 
takes  up  the  merest  trace.     Chloroform,  ab- 
solute alcohol,  the  strongest  acetic  acid,  tur- 
pentine, hot  olive  oil,  and  hot  glycerine,  are 
the  only  simple  fluids  that  dissolve  any  ap- 
preciable quantity.     But  it  separates  from  the 
oil  and  glycerine  on  cooling ;  and  water  add- 
ed to  the  other  solutions  produces  the  same 
result.    By  the  use  of  the  following  formula, 
however,  a  useful  and  effective  solution  may 
be  obtained.     Put  20  grains  bicarbonate   of 
soda  and  3  ounces  distilled  water  into  a  flask; 
keep  the  liquid  near  the  boiling  point  and 
add    12    grains    santonin,    finely   powdered, 
about  2  grains  at  a  time,  until  the  whole  has 
dissolved.     Solution  is  effected  in  about  half 
an  hour,  during  which  time  the  water  is  re- 
duced to  2  ounces,  or,  if  not,  may  bo  reduced 
to  that  bulk,  when  1  ounce  will  contain  a  full 
dose — 6  grains  of  santonin.     The  solution  is 
bright  and  permanent,.,  strongly  alkaline,  free 
from  odor  and  taste,  except  that  of  carbon- 
ate cf  soda.     Carefully  neutralized  with  acetic 
acid,  an  equally  bright  and  permanent  solu- 
tion is  formed.     Both  may  be  diluted  to  any 
extent,  with  hot  or  cold  water  without  impair- 
ing the  solution  of  santonin.      The  whole, 
or  nearly  the  whole,  of  the  santonin  is  pre- 
cipitated   in  its    original  form    of   colorless 
rectangular  plates,  with  bevelled  edges,  im- 
mediately by  mineral  acids,  and  after  some 
hours  by  excess  of  acetic  acid. 

4795.  Miscible  Copaiba.      Mix  trans- 
parent balsam  of  copaiba  with  half  its  volume 
of  strong  liquid  of  potassa  of  double  strength. 
Different   samples  often  require  slightly  dif- 
ferent quantities  of  the  solution  of  potassa;  it 
is  therefore  best  to  mix  them  gradually  and 
cautiously  together.     Should  the  mixture  bo 
opaque,  a  little  more  of  one  or  other  of  tho 
ingredients,  as  the  case  may  be,  will  render 
it  clear.     No  heat  should  be  used.     This  arti- 
cle is  miscible  with  water,   with  which   it 
forms  a  kind  of  milk ;   and,  from  containing 
all  the  volatile  oil  of  the  copaiba,  is  a  very 
valuable  preparation.      Its  activity  is    con- 


4:4:0 


SOLUTIONS. 


sidered  equal  to  the  balsam  itself,  and  is 
given  in  similar  doses. 

4796.  Solution  of  Permanganate  of 

Potassa.  M.  Leconte  prepares  this  solution 
in  the  following  manner :  Caustic  potassa,  6 
drachms;  chlorate  of  potassa,  5  drachms; 
binoxide  of  manganese,  5  drachms.  Dissolve 
the  caustic  potassa  and  the  chlorate  in  a  small 
quantity  of  water,  and  add  the  manganese ; 
get  rid  of  the  water  by  evaporation,  stir- 
ring constantly,  and  calcine  the  dry  mass  to  a 
dark  red  for  an  hour  in  an  untinned  iron  cup ; 
allow  to  cool,  and  add  a  quart  of  plain  water. 
Then  boil  for  5  minutes  in  a  china  capsule, 
and  you  will  obtain  a  fluid  of  a  slightly  pur- 
plish tint;  decant  the  solution,  and  wash  the 
residue  with  such  a  quantity  of  water  as  to 
make  altogether  2  quarts.  When  filtering  is 
thought  necessary,  the  liquid  should  be  pass- 
ed, not  through  paper,  but  through  very 
fine  sand.  For  dressing  foul  wounds,  or  for 
injection,  use  1  drachm  of  this  solution  to 
from  3  drachms  to  5  of  spring  water. 

4797.  Reveil's  Solution  of  Perman- 
ganate of  Potassa.     The  officinal  solution 
of  the  British  pharmacopoeia  consists  of  80 
grains  of  the  permanganate  dissolved  in  1  im- 
perial pint  distilled  water.     This  is  about  1 
part  by  weight  to  110  parts  water.    M.  Reveil 
recommends  a  standard  solution  of  10  parts 
permanganate  to  90  of  water,  so  that  the  so- 
lution contains  10  per  cent,  of  permanganate. 
This  latter  strength  is  endorsed  by  the  U.  S. 
Dispensatory,  which  also  recommends  extreme 
cleanliness  in  its  preparation  and  use,  and  of 
the  bottles  containing  it,  as  organic  matter 
more  or  less  neutralizes  its  disinfecting  and 
cleansing  powers.    The  same  authority  orders 
the  pencil  or  brush  used  for  its  application  to 
be  made  of  amianthus,  or  asbestos,  in  order  to 
ensure  its  fullest  effects.     (See  No.  1701.) 

4798.  Directions  for  Using  Perman- 
ganate of  Potassa.     Ecveil's  standard  so- 
lution (sec  No.  4797)  may  bo  used  at  its  full 
strength  for    dressing    cancerous    sores  and 
ulcers,  applied  with  a  pencil  made  of  asbestos, 
or  sprinkled  over  a  dressing  of  the  same  ma- 
terial.    For  simple  wounds  or  for  injections, 
J  fluid  ounce  of  the  solution  may  be  diluted 
•with  1  pint  of  water.  'For  gangrenous  wounds 
and  scrofulous  ulcers,  or  as  a,  gargle  in  un- 
healthy ulcers  of  the  mouth  and  throat,   1 
fluid  ounce  to  a  pint  of  water.     For  a  gargle 
in  croup  and  diphtheria,  or  as  a  wash  for  the 
hands  after  dissecting,  2  fluid  ounces  to  the 
pint.    A  dose  administered  internally  may 
consist  of  10  to  30  drops  of  the  standard  solu- 
tion.    (U.  S.  Disp.) 

4799.  Aceto-Carbolic  Solution.   Acet- 
ic   acid    (pyroligncous)   8°,   20  parts;    pure 
carbolic  acid,  5  parts  ;  water,  75  parts.    Mix 
the  two  acids  and  add  the  water.     The  acetic 
acid  favors  penetration  through  the  epidermis. 
For  tinea,  apply  the  liquid  once  a  day  over 
the  diseased  parts  by  means  of  a  brush.    For 
scabies,  sponge  all  the  parts.     Tho  clothes, 
&c.,  of  the  affected  individual  should  also  be 
treated  with  the  liquid.     (Lcmairc.) 

4800.  Solution  of  Carbolic  Acid   in 
"Water.     To  obtain  uniform  solution,  it  is 
better  to  slack  the  carbolic  acid  with  four 
times^its  bulk  of  hot  water,  and  then  to  add  a 
sufficiency  of  cold  water ;  or  the  carbolic  acid 
may  be  first    mingled  with  alcohol,   which 


causes  more  ready  solubilitj-,  before  the  addi- 
tion of  cold  water.  "Water  will  not  dissolve 
more  than  one-twentieth  of  its  bulk  of  carbolic 
acid. 

4801.  Frank's  Specific  Solution   of 
Copaiba.     Boil  2  parts  balsam  of  copaiba,  3 
parts  liquor  of  potassa,  and  7  parts  water  to- 
gether for  2  or  3  minutes ;  put  the  mixture 
into  a  separator,  and  let  it  stand  for  5  or  6 
days;    then  draw  it  off'  from  the  bottom, 
avoiding  the  upper  stratum  of  oil,  and  add  to 
the  clear  liquid  1  part  sweet  spirits  of  nitre, 
perfectly  free  from  acid ;  should  it  turn  milky, 
a  very  little  liquor  of  potassa  will  usually 
brighten  it;  but  if  it  does  not,  place  it  in  a 
clean  separator,  and  let  it  stand,  closely  cov- 
ered, for  a  few  days,  then  draw  it  off  from 
the  bottom  as  before,  and  it  will  bo  perfectly 
transparent. 

4802.  Mackenzie's  Solution  of  Ni- 
trate of  Silver.     This  is  used  for  sponging 
the  throat  and  fauces,  for  affections  <f  thoso 
parts.     Dissolve  20  grains  nitrate  of  /silver  in 
1  fluid  ounce  distilled  water. 

4803.  Solution  of  Hydrosulphuret  of 
Ammonia.    Saturate  strong  water  of  ammo- 
nia with  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  then  add 
a  second  portion  of  water  of  amm.mia,  equal 
to  that  first  used,  and  put  into  welt-stoppered 
bottles. 

4804.  Fowler's  Solution ;  Solution  of 
Arsenite  of  Potassa.     Boil  64  grains  ar- 
fienious  acid  (in  small  pieces),  and  64  grains 
bicarbonate  of  potassa,  in  12  fluid    ounces 
water,   until  the  acid  is  entirely  dissolved. 
"When  cold,   add    h  fluid    ount-e    compound 
spirit    of   lavender,    and    sufficient    distilled 
water  to  make  the  whole  mixture  measure  a 
pint.     (U.  S.  Pit.) 

4805.  Solution   of   Citrate  of  Mag- 
nesia.    Crystallized  citric  add,  o7  drachms ; 
water,  268  drachms;  carbonate  of  magnesia, 
22  drachms.     Dissolve  the  acid  in  the  water, 
and  mix  the  magnesia  with  it  under  constant 
stirring;    filter,   and  add   to  the  filtrate   so 
much  water  as  to  bring  tie  weight  of  the 
whole  to  40  ounces.     To  prepare  the  lemon- 
ado,   take     of   aromatized    .simple   syrup,   4 
ounces ;  pulverized  citric  acid,  48  grains ;  bi- 
carbonate of  soda,  64  grains.      Fill  into  bot- 
tles of  suitable  size,  add  water  and  so  much 
of  the  magnesia  solution  as  is  required,  and 
cork  and  tie  immediately.    Keep  in  a  cool 
place.     This   solution  contains  80   grains   of 
citrate  of  magnesia  to  the  ounce  of  fluid. 

4806.  Parisel's  Solution  of  Citrate  of 
Magnesia.     M.  Parisel  recommends  the  fol- 
lowing   method    of   preparing    this    article, 
which  ho  has  followed  during  two  years,  as 
being  both   simple  and    effectual :    Take  of 
powdered  and  well  dried  citric  acid,  20  parts 
by  weight;  carbonate  of  magnesia,  12  parts; 
mix  accurately,  and  enclose  the  powder  in  a 
slightly  warmed  and  well-dried  bottle,  which 
invist  be  kept  well   stopped.     The    mixture 
thus  made  is  rapidly  dissolved  in  three  times 
its  weight  of  water  at  the  ordinary  tempera- 
ture; and,  if  the  water  bo  pure,  the  solution 
in  a  few  minutes  becomes  perfectly  transpar- 
ent, without  any  precipitate.     The  isalt  pro- 
serves  its  solubility  for  a  long  time. 

4807.  Solution  of  Tartrate  of  Soda- 
Take  of  carbonate  of  soda,  If  pounds;  tartarin 
acid,    1J  pounds;  crushed   sugar,  2  pound*; 


LOTIONS. 


hot  water,  2  gallons.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  Ik 
gallons  of  the  water;  the  sugar  in  1  quart; 
and  the  acid  in  1  quart.  "When  all  have  dis- 
solved and  cooled  down,  add  the  acid  slowly 
to  the  soda  solution,  and  mix  with  the  sugar. 
Filter  into  strong  12-ounce  bottles,  to  each  of 
which  must  be  added  a  few  drops  of  strong 
essence  of  lemon,  arid  35  grains  of  bicarbonate 
of  soda.  Cork  immediately  and  tie  or  wire 
the  bottles;  will  keep  for  any  length  of  time. 
This  is  considered  a  good  substitute  for  solu- 
ton  of  citrate  of  magnesia. 

4808.  Solution  of  Citrate  of  Potassa. 
Take  of  citric  acid,  i  ounce,  troy  ;  bicarbonate 
of  potassa,  330   grains;  water,  £  pint.     Dis- 
solve the  acid  and  bicarbonate  in  the  water, 
and  strain  the  solution  through  muslin.  (  U.  S. 
Ph.) 

4809.  Effervescing  Citrate  of  Mag- 
nesia.     Take  of  citric  acid,  dried  and  pow- 
dered, 7  parts  ;  heavy  carbonate  of  magnesia, 
5  parts ;    mix,  and  preserve  in  well-corked 
bottles. 

4810.  Effervescing  Citrate  of  Mag- 
nesia.      Take    of   powdered  citric  acid,  *Z\ 
ounces ;  powdered  sugar,  8  ounces ;  mix  and 
triturate  to  a  fine  powder,  and  drive  off  the 
water  of  crystallization    by  the  heat    of  a 
water-bath.      Add  citrate  of  magnesia  (pre- 
pared by  fusion),  4  ounces;  oil  of  lemon,  10 
drops ;  and  mix  immediately ;   then  add  bi- 
carbonate of  soda,  3  ounces ;  and  again  tritu- 
rate until  the  whole  forms  a  fine  powder, 
which  must  be  preserved  in  well-stoppered 
bottles.     From  1  to  3  table-spoonfuls,  mixed 
in  a  tumbler  of  water,  furnishes  an  efferves- 
cing draught,  in  which  the  uudissolved  por- 
tion  is   so   nicely  suspended    that  it  can  be 
taken  without  inconvenience. 

4811.  Effervescing  Citrate  of  Mag- 
nesia.     Take  of  crystallized  citric  acid,  20 
grains;    carbonate    of  magnesia,   14   grains; 
mix  in  a  tumbler  of  cold  water  and  drink  the 
mixture  whilst  effervescing. 

48 1 2.  Solution  of  Citrate  of  Bismuth. 
Put  2  ounces  pure  sub-nitrate  of  bismuth  into 
a  porcelain  dish,  add  1450  grains  nitric  acid  of 
specific  gravity  1.44  ;  heat  over  a  spirit  lamp 
until  the  bismuth  is  dissolved ;  then  add  one 
fluid  ounce  water,  and  let  stand  until  cold; 
then  gradually  add  water,  constantly  stirring 
with  a  glass  rod,  until  a  further  addition  pro- 
duces milkiness,  or  until  the  whole  measures 
1£  pints.     Filter  and  set  aside. 

Next,  dissolve  3  ounces  citric  acid  in  lj 
pints  water,  and  exactly  neutralize  the  acid 
with  carbonate  of  soda  dissolved  iu  water.  It 
is  important  that  there  shall  be  no  excess  of 
soda,  as  the  resulting  citrate  of  bismuth  would 
be  contaminated  with  the  oxide  after  decom- 
position. Put  the  bismuth  solution  in  a  suit- 
able vessel,  and  add,  stirring  constantly  with 
a  glass  rod,  sufficient  of  the  solution  citrate 
soda  exactly  to  decompose ;  the  precise  quan- 
tity is  known  to  have  been  added,  when, 
after  placing  the  whole  upon  a  cloth  filter, 
the  washings,  after  having  been  suffered  to 
run  awhile  until  clear,  first,  fail  to  precipitate 
bismuth  when  dropped  into  water,  and,  sec- 
ond, show  no  precipitate  upon  the  addition  of 
a  few  drops  of  ternitrate  of  bismuth,  a  small 
quantity  of  which  should  be  reserved  for  this 
purpose.  When  the  liquid  portion  has  mostly 
passed,  pour  water  upon  the  filter  until  thor- 


oughly washed  from  nitrate  of  soda,  or  until 
the  water  passes  tasteless;  then,  after  drain- 
ing, transfer  to  bibulous  paper,  and  dry  by 
gentle  heat. 

~  4813.  Bartlett's  Preparation  of  Citrate 
of  Bismuth.  Dissolve  1  troy  ounce  sub- 
carbonate  of  bismuth  in  720  grains  nitric 
acid ;  after  effervescence  has  ceased,  gradual- 
ly introduce  1  £  fluid  ounces  distilled  water ; 
add  to  this  slowly,  and  with  constant  stirring, 
a  solution  of  GOO  grains  citrate  of  potassa  in  2 
pints  distilled  water.  Nitrate  of  potassa  and 
citrate  of  bismuth  are  formed;  the  latter,  being 
insoluble,  is  precipitated,  and,  being  thorough- 
ly washed  with  distilled  watei',  may  be  dried 
on  bibulous  paper  with  a  gentle  heat. 

4814.  Solution  of  Citrate  of  Bismuth 
and  Ammonia.     Rub  some  citrate  of  bis- 
muth with  sufficient  distilled  water  to  reduce 
it  to  a  uniform  pasty  consistence,  and  add 
cautiously,  with  constant  trituration,  strong 
water  of  ammonia  until  a  solution  is  obtained, 
observing  to  avoid  an  excess  of  ammonia. 
Filter  the   liquid  through    paper,   returning 
the  first  portions  that  pass,  should  they  be 
turbid. 

4815.  Solution  of  Citrate  of  Iron. 
Dilute   1   pint  of  solution  of  tersulphate  of 
iron  with  2  pints  distilled  water ;  precipitate 
with  water  of  ammonia  in  slight  excess,  con- 
stantly stirring.    Transfer  the  precipitate  to 
a  muslin  strainer,  and  wash  it  with  water 
until  the  washings  are  nearly  tasteless.   Drain 
it,  and  put  half  of  it  in  a  porcelain  capsule  on 
a  water-bath  heated  to  150°  Fahr.,  add  5| 
troy  ounces  citric  acid  in  coarse  powder,  and 
stir  until  the  precipitate  is  nearly  dissolved ; 
then  add  sufficient  of  the  reserved  precipitate 
to  fully  saturate  the  acid.    Lastly,  filter  the 
liquid,  evaporate  it  at  a  temperature  not  over 
150°  Fahr.,  until  it  measures  a  pint.     (  U.  S. 
Dis.} 

4816.  Styptic  Solution  of  Perchloride 
of  Iron.     Mix  together  12  fluid  ounces  mu- 
riatic acid  and  5  fluid  ounces  water ;  pour  the 
mixture,  a  small  portion  at  a  time,  on  2  oxm- 
ces  avoirdupois  of  iron  wire ;  aiding  the  com- 
plete solution  of  the  wire  by  a  gentle  heat. 
Add  6  fluid   drachms  nitric 'acid,  previously 
mixed  with  2  ounces  water;   and  evaporate 
the  whole  to  5  fluid  ounces.     Lastly,  add  wa- 
ter sufficient  to  make  the  whole  up  to  10  fluid 
ounces.     (  U.  S.  Dis.) 


LotiOIlS.  Solutions  of  medicinal 
tmbstances  in  water/  employed  for  ex- 
ternal application.  They  may  be  made  of 
any  soluble  medicaments  that  are  capable  of 
exerting  their  action  by  contact  with  the  skin. 
Lotions  have  been  divided  into  classes,  as 
sedative,  anodyne,  stimulant,  &c.  Sedative 
and  refrigerant  lotions  are  commonly  em- 
ployed to  allay  inflammation  ;  anodyne  and 
narcotic  lotions  to  relieve  pain ;  stimulant  lo- 
tions to  assist  the  ripening  of  tumors,  <fcc.; 
detergent  lotions  to  clean  foul  ulcers,  &c.; 
repellant  and  resolvent  lotions  to  disperse 
tumors,  remove  eruptions,  &c.  Lotions  are 
usually  applied  by  wetting  a  piece  of  linen 
with  them,  and  keeping  it  on  the  part  affected, 
;r  by  moistening  the  part  with  the  fingers 


442 


LOTIONS. 


previously  dipped  into  them.  Lotions  are 
more  agreeable  if  made  with  rose  water.  A 
number  of  these  preparations  are  here  given, 
and  others  will  be  found  by  referring  to  the 
index,  under  their  respective  headings. 

4818.  Lotion  of  Nitric  Acid.     Mix  to- 
gether 2  drachms  dilute  nitric  acid  and  1  pint 
water.     This  lotion  is  stimulating  and  cleans- 
ing.    It  is  very  useful  when  applied  to  foul 
and  foetid  ulcers;  it  is  likewise  of  considerable 
value  inulceration  of  the  bone  and  threatened 
inflammation.     It  was  the  favorite  lotion  of 
Sir  Astley  Cooper  in  cases  of  unhealthy  ul- 
cerations  requiring  the  application  of  a  stimu- 
lant. 

4819.  Anodyne  Lotion.     Crude  opium, 
2  drachms;   warm  water,  1   pint.     Eub  the 
opium  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  mortar  with  a 
little  of  the  warm  water,  then  pour  in  the  re- 
mainder of  the  water  and  mix  them  well. 
This  is  an  excellent  wash  for  painful  and  irri- 
table ulcers  and  swellings. 

4820.  Astringent    Lotion.     Sulphate 
of  zinc,  2  drachms ;  water,  1  pint ;  camphor- 
ated  spirit  of  wine,  2  drachms;   mixed  to- 
gether.   This  is  an  excellent  lotion  for  piles, 
used  night  and  morning. 

4821.  Compound  Alum  Lotion.   A  de- 
tergent and  astringent  lotion  for  old  ulcers, 
chilblains,  excoriations,  <tc.,  and,  largely  dilu- 
ted, as  an  eye-wash  and  injection.     Dissolve  1 
ounce  each  of  alum   and  sulphate  of  zinc 
in  3  pints  boiling  water ;  filter,  if  necessary. 

4822.  Camphorated  Lotion.    Diluted 
solution  of  diacetate  of  lead,  8  fluid  ounces ; 
spirit  of  camphor,  2  drachms ;  mix,  and  shake 
well.    Kefrigerant  and  anodyne.   Employed  in 
erysipelatous    inflammations,    bums,    contu- 
sions, sprains,  excoriations,  <fec. 

4823.  Spackman's   Lotion   for    In- 
flamed Parts.     Mix   1   drachm  tincture  of 
myrrh;   3   drachms  tincture  of  camphor;    1 
ounce  rectified  spirits  of  wine;    1   drachm 
Goulard's  extract;   1  ounce  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  morphia;  2  ounces  tincture  of  arnica, 
and  4  ounces  water. 

4824.  Lotion  of  Acetate  of  Lead. 
Dissolve  sugar  of  lead,  J  ounce  avoirdupois, 
in  distilled  or  soft  water,  1  Imperial  pint. 
Sometimes  'a  little  vinegar  is  added,  a  like 
quantity  of  water  being  omitted.    Used  in 
excoriations,  burns,  sprains,  contusions,  &c. ; 
also  as  an  occasional  cosmetic  wash  by  per- 
sons troubled  with  eruptions. 

4825.  Preventive  Lotions.     These  are 
washes  intended  to»  prevent  infection  from 
personal  contact  with  those  laboring  under 
contagious  diseases.     Most  of  the  nostrums 
of  this  character  'are  mere  weak  solutions  of 
chloride  of  lime,  corrosive  sublimate,  potassa, 
or  acetate  or  diacetato  of  lead.     (See   No. 
4830.) 

4826.  Lotion  of  Muriate  of  Ammonia. 
Dissolve   sal-ammoniac  in  coarse  powder,  1 
to  4  drachms  (avoirdupois),  in  water,  1  Im- 
perial pint.     A  useful  wash  in  itch,  old  ulcers, 
tender  feet,  sweaty  feet  and  hands,  swelled 
joints,  &c. 

4827.  Strong  Lotion  of  Hydrochlorate 
of  Ammonia.     Dissolve  sal-ammoniac,  1  to 
2  avoirdupois  ounces,  in  water,  1   Imperial 
pint.     In  bruises  and  contusions,  extravasa- 
tions,  glandular   swellings   and    indurations, 
chilblains,  &c.,  when  the  skin  is  not  broken. 


Tinegar  is  often  substituted  for  the  whole  or 
a  part  of  the  water,  and  sometimes  i  or  £ 
part  of  rectified  spirit,  or  some  brandy  or  rum 
is  added. 

4828.  Lotion  of  Muriatic  Acid.     Mix 
hydrochloric   acid   (specific   gravity   1.16),   1 
fluid  ounce,  with  water,  19  fluid  ounces.     For 
unbroken  chilblains.     Diluted  with  an  equal 
bulk  of  water,  it  forms  a  useful  lotion  in  lepra 
and  other  scaly  skin  diseases. 

4829.  Lotion  of  Nitrate  of   Silver. 
Dissolve  crystallized  nitrate  of  silver,  1  to  2 
drachms  avoirdupois;  concentrated  nitric  acid, 
20  drops;  in  distilled  water,  1  ounce.     Used 
as  a  liquid  caustic  to  destroy  corns  and  warts. 

4830.  Lotion  of   Chloride  of  Lime. 
Take  of  chloride  of  lime  (best,  fresh),  £  ounce 
avoirdupois  ;  pure  water,  1  Imperial   pint ; 
mix  in  a  bottle,  and  agitate,  occasionally,  for 
2  or  3  hours ;  after  repose,  filter  the  clear  por- 
tion through  a  piece  of  calico  that  has  been 
previously  moistened  with  water,  and  preserve 
the  filtrate  in  a  stoppered  bottle. 

4831.  Lotion  of  Chloride    of   Soda. 
As  the  last,  but  substituting  chloride  of  soda 
for  chloride  of  lime.     Or :  Take  of  chloride  of 
lime,  \  ounce  avoirdupois ;  water,  £  Imperial 
pint;  mix,  &c.,  as  before;  then  add  of  crys- 
tallized carbonate  of  soda,  3i  drachms;  pre- 
viously dissolved  in  water,  J  pint;  agitate  the 
whole  for  12  or  15  minutes,  and  filter,  &c.,  as 
before. 

4832.  Lotion  of  Chloride  of  Potassa. 
As  the  last,  but  substituting  3  drachms  dry 
carbonate   of   potassa  for  the    carbonate   of 
soda. 

4833.  Lotion  of  Prussic  Acid.     Mix 
medicinal  prussic  acid,   5  fluid  drachm,  with 
rectified   spirit,  1  fluid  ounce,   and  distilled 
water,  2  fluid  ounces ;  cover  the  bottle  with 
thick  purple  paper,  and  keep  it  in  the  shade. 
Recommended  by  Dr.  Elliotson  as  a  lotion  to 
moisten  the  face  both  before  and  after  shaving, 
as  being  very  soothing  to  an  irritable  skin.  It 
is  poisonous. 

4834.  Sulphuretted  Lotion.     Dissolve 
sulphuret  of  potassium,  1  drachm  avoirdupois, 
in  distilled  water,  1  pint  Imperial.     Used  to 
render  the  skin  soft,  white,  and  smooth,  par- 
ticularly when  there  is  a  tendency  to  slight 
eruptions  of  a  pustular  or  vesicular  character. 
The  addition  of  ^  to  1  ounce  of  glycerine  im- 
proves it  for  present  use. 

4835.  Carbolic  Acid  Lotion.     Dissolve 
5  grains  carbolic  acid  in  crystals,  in  1  ounce 
water.     As  a  lotion  for  foul  ulcers,  carbun- 
cles, scabies,  and  lepra. 

4836.  Carbolic  Acid  Lotion  for  Burns. 
Mix  1  drachm  liquid  carbolic  acid  with  3  oun- 
ces linseed  oil  and  3  ounces  lime-water. 

4837.  Lotion  of  Arnica  for  Bruises, 
Sprains,   Burns,    &c.     .Take    1   ounce    of 
arnica    flowers   dried,   and   put    them    in    a 
wide-mouthed    bottle ;     pour     just     enough 
scalding  water  over  them  to  moisten  them, 
and  afterwards  about  1  or  1£  pints  spirits  of 
wine.     In  case  of  a  bum  or  bruise,  &c.,  wet  a 
cloth  in  the  arnica  and  lay  it  on  the  part  af- 
fected.    Renew  the  application  occasionally, 
and  the  pain  will  soon  be  removed. 

4838.  Balm  of  Gilead  Lotion.     Balm- 
gilead  buds,  bottled  up  in  new  rum,  are  very 
healing  to  fresh  cuts  or  wounds.     An  excel- 
lent preparation  to  have  in  the  house. 


LINIMENTS. 


4:4:3 


4839.  Glycerine  Lotion  for  Irritation 
of  the  Skin.     Mix  1  ounce  of  glycerine  with 
1  pint  water.     It  allays  itching  and  removes 
dryness,  &c.,  in  various  skin  diseases.    With 
the  addition  of  2  or  3  drachms  of  borax,  it 
removes  chaps  from  the  lips,  hands,  and  nip- 
ples. 

4840.  Startin's  Glycerine  Lotion  to 
Allay  Irritation.     Take  5  drachm  trisnitrate 
of  bismuth  ;  1  fluid  drachm  tincture  of  fox- 

flove ;   1  fluid  drachm  dilute  nitric  acid ;    4 
rachrns  glycerine ;  and  &  fluid  ounces  rose- 
water.     To  allay  the  irritation  in  itch  and 
some  other  skin  diseases. 

4841.  Glycerine  Lotion  for  Burns, 
Scalds,    &c.      Take    1   ounce    glycerine,  2 
ounces  thick  mucilage  (gum-arabic  dissolved 
in   water),   and  7   ounces  lime   water.     For 
burns,  scalds,  chaps,  excoriations,  &c. 

4842.  Startin's  Glycerine  Lotion  for 
Bruises,   &c.      Triturate  together  1  ounce 
glycerine,    1   drachm   extract  of  belladonna, 
and  3  ounces  soap  liniment.     (See  No.  4869.) 
For  bruises,  sprains,  and  swelled  joints;  also 
gouty,  neuralgic,  and  rheumatic  pains. 

4843.  Evaporating  Lotions.      These 
lotions  are  soothing  and  refrigerant  if  allowed 
to  evaporate  by  free  exposure ;  and  stimulant, 
if  the  evaporation  is  prevented  by  covering 
the  part  with  the  hand,  or  a  piece  of  oiled 
silk.     They  are  useful  applications  in  nervous 
headaches,  restlessness,  irritability  of  the  skin, 
<fec.     Mix  1£  fluid  ounces  each  of  sulphuric 
ether,  rectified  spirit,  and  solution  of  acetate 
of  ammonia,  with  3£  fluid  ounces  rose-water. 
A  simple  evaporating  lotion  may  be  made 
with  1  part  rectified  spirit,  and  4  to  6  parts 
water. 

4844.  Camphorated  Evaporating 
Lotion.  Dissolve  k  drachm  camphor  in  4 
ounces  rectified  spirit  and  &  ounce  elder 
flowers ;  digest  24  hours  and  strain.  This 
is  a  good  calming  lotion. 

4845.  Tar  Lotion.    Quicklime,  6  ounces ; 
water,  48  ounces  ;  slack,  add  tar  4  ounces,  and 
boil  to  one  half.      This  liquid  consists  of  a 
solution  of  pyrolignite  of  lime   and  pyroge- 
nous  oil  and  resin.     It  may  be  advantageously 
employed  in  various  chronic   skin  diseases, 
especially  those  affecting  the  heads  of  chil- 
dren. 

4846.  Lotion  of  Galls.     Bruised  galls. 
2  drachms;  boiling  water,  1  pint;  infuse  an 
hour,  and  strain.     Astringent.     An  excellent 
application  to  sore  nipples,  or  to  strengthen 
them  before  suckling;  spirit  of  wine,  3  oun- 
ces, may  be  advantageously  added,  and  a  like 
portion  of  water  omitted. 

4847.  Mercurial    Lotion;    or  Black 
Wash.     Calomel,   1  drachm;  lime  water,  1 
pint ;  mix,  and  shako  well.      These  are  the 
usual  proportions.     The  bottle  should  be  well 
shaken  before  the  lotion  is  applied.      Black 
wash  is  a  favorite  application  to  all  kinds  oi 
syphilitic  sores. 

4848.  Yellow  Lotion  or  Wash,  Some- 
times called  Bed  Wash.     Corrosive  subli- 
mate (in  powder),  £  drachm  ;  lime  water, 
pint ;  mix,  and  shake  well.     It  should  be  well 
shaken  before  use.     A  common  application  to 
syphilitic  and  scrofulous  sores. 

4849.  Lotion  of  Belladonna.     Extract 
of  deadly  night-shade,  1  drachm ;  diluted  solu- 
tion of  diacetate  of  lead,  1  pint;    dissolve. 


Applied    to  tumors  and   glandular  enlarge- 
ments. 

4850.  Cazenaye's  Antipsoric  Lotion. 
Sulphuret  of  potassium,  1  drachm  ;  soft  soap 

re),  2  drachms  ;  water,  8  ounces ;  dissolve. 
An  excellent  remedy  for  the  itch.  It  leaves 
but  little  smell  behind,  and  does  not  soil  the 
[inen. 

4851.  Iodine  Lotion.     Tincture  of  io- 
dine, i  fluid  ounce;  iodide  of  iron,  12  grain;;; 
chloride  of  antimony,  i  ounce.     Mix  for  a 
wash.      It  is  a  remedy  for  corns.      Apply 
with  a  small  brush.     Or:   Iodine,  li  grains; 
spirits  of  wine,  3  tea-spoonfuls.    Dissolve,  and 
add  1  pint  of  water.    A  most  excellent  wash 
for  scrofulous  sores. 

4852.  Disinfecting    Lotion.      Liquor 
of  common  salt,  1  fluid  ounce  ;  water,  |  pint ; 
Or:  Chloride  of  lime,  3  drachms;  water,  1  pint; 
dissolve.      Both  are  good  washes    for   i'oul 
ulcers,  the  itch,   the  teeth,  to  sweeten  the 
breath    and '  remove    the  smell    of  tobacco 
smoke,  and  for  various  similar  purposes. 

4853.  Valuable  Lotion  for  Wounds, 
&c.     Camphor,    5  drachms,   cut  into   small 
pieces,  and  dissolved  in  half  a  pint  of  spirits  of 
wine  in  a  closely  corked  bottle ;  when  fully 
dissolved,  add  i  pint  of  ox-gall  and  60  drops 
of  laudanum.     Shake  it  well,  and  bottle  for 
use.    This  has  been  a  patent  medicine,  and 
is  very  efficacious  in  the  cure  of  fresh  wounds, 
cuts,  bruises,  swellings,  sores,  and  inflamed 
and  pained  parts. 

4854.  Lotion  for  Mange.      Corrosive 
sublimate,  J  ounce ;   spirits  ot   salt  (muriatic 
acid),    i  ounce ;   water,  1  quart.     Or :    Cor- 
rosive sublimate,  1  drachm;  sal-ammoniac,  $ 
ounce;   water,  1  pint  Or:    To  the  last  add 
strong  decoction  of  white  hellebore,  \  pint. 
Used  for  mange  in  horses,  cattle,  and  dogs, 
when  sulphur  ointment  fails. 

4855.  Lotion  for  Galls.     Vinegar  and 
spirit  of  wine,  of  each  4  ounces;  sugar  of  lead, 
\  ounce ;  water,  i  pint;  mix.     Or:    Soap  lini- 
ment   and  solution  of  acetate  of  ammonia, 
equal  parts.      Or :    Sal-ammoniac,  1  ounce  ; 
muriatic  acid,  3  drachma ;  water,  1  pint.    Used 
by  farriers  for  saddle-galls  or  warbles. 

4856.  Lotion  of  Chlorate  of  Potassa. 
— sometimes  called  Cosmetic  Solution  of  Po- 
tassa— for  bad  breath.      Dissolve  powdered 
chlorate  of  potassa,  &  ounce,    in  distilled  wa- 
ter, 12  ounces,    and  rose-water,   2&  ounces. 
Used  as  a  wash  in  foul  mouth,  gums,   <fcc., 
particularly  where  there  is  a  scorbutic  or  sy- 
philitic taint;    also  extensively  by  smokers, 
to  deodorize  the  breath.     Its  daily  use  is  said 
to  give  a  rich  healthy  hue  to  the  gums  and 
lips. 


BllimeiltS.  A  semi-fluid  oint- 
ment or  soapy  application  for  painful 
joints,  swellings,  burns,  &c.  The  term  is  also 
occasionally  extended  to  various  spirituous 
and  stimulating  external  applications.  "When 
they  are  of  a  thinner  consistency  they  arc- 
called  embrocations,  although  this  distinc- 
tion is  not  always  observed.  Liniments  aro 
generally  applied  by  friction  with  the  hand 
or  fingers,  or  with  some  substance,  such  as  a 
piece  of  flannel,  capable  of  producing  some 
amount  of  irritation  of  the  skin.  Sometimes 
a  piece  of  linen  rag  dipped  in  them  is  simply 


4:4:4: 


LINIMENTS. 


laid  on  the  part.  The  greater  number  of 
cerates  and  ointments  may  be  converted  into 
liniments  by  reducing  their  substance  with 
almond  or  olive  oil,,  or  oil  of  turpentine. 
Besides  those  here  given,  others  will  be 
found  in  the  index  under  their  proper  heads. 

4858.  Good  Samaritan,  or  Immediate 
Relief  from  Pain.     Take  2  quarts  of  95  per- 
cent, alcohol,   and  add  to  it  the  following 
articles :     Oils  of  sassafras,  hemlock,  spirits  of 
turpentine,  balsam  of  fir,  chloroform,  and  tinc- 
ture   of  catechu  and  guaiacum,   of  each  1 
ounce ;  oil  of  origanum,  2  ounces ;  oil  of  win- 
tergreen,  k  ounce,  and  gum  camphor,  £  ounce. 
The  above  is  a  noble  liniment,  and  may  be 
successfully  employed  in  rheumatism,  braises, 
neuralgia,  sprains,  headache,  burns,  and  spinal 
affections. 

4859.  Hemlock   Liniment.      Oil    of 
hemlock,    -J    ounce ;    camphor,   in    gum,    i 
ounce ;  opium,   J  ounce ;  spirits  of  wine,   1 
pint.    Mix.    It  is  a  first-rate,  rubefacient  in 
inflammatory  rheumatism,  gout,  quinsy,  in- 
flamed breast,  white  swellings,  <fec. 

4860.  Morphia  Liniment.      An    ex- 
cellent  anodyne,   which    often    allays    pain 
when  other  means  have  failed.      Put  3  grains 
pure  morphia  into  a  mortar  ;  add  gradually, 
during  trituration,  1  fluid  ounce  warm  oil  of 
almonds ;  when  the  morphia  is  dissolved,  add 
1  ounce  camphor  liniment.     (Sec  No.  4880). 

4861.  Magic    Liniment.     Alcohol,   1 
quart ;  gum  camphor,  4  ounces ;  turpentine,  2 
ounces;  oil  of  origanum,  2  ounces;  sweet  oil, 
1  ounce.    For  cuts  or  calks  in  horses  or  cattle 
in  winter  it  has  no  equal ;  but  it  must  be  ap- 
plied often.    For  human  flesh  use  twice  the 
amount  of  alcohol,  and  no  liniment  will  be 
found  superior  to  it. 

4862.  Spirits  of  Camphor.     The  gum 
resin  camphor  readily  dissolves  in  alcohol, 
forming  spirits  of  camphor.    About  2  ounces 
camphor  are  generally  dissolved  in  about  1 
pint  spirits.     It  is  used  as  an  external  appli- 
cation for  sprains,  local  pains,  and  stitches. 
It  is  applied  by  rubbing  with  the  hand  upon 
the  painful  part.     To  secure  the  full  benefit 
of  the  application,  the  part  should  be  after- 
wards covered  with  a  piece  of  flannel  of  suit- 
able   size,   more    or    less  wetted    with    the 
spirits,  and  the  whole  covered  with  oil  silk 
tor  the  purpose  of  restraining  evaporation. 

4863.  Camphorated   Oil.     This  is   a 
Camphor  liniment.     The  proportions  are  the 
same  as  in  the  preceding  formula,  substituting 
olive  oil  for  the  alcohol,  and  exposing  the  ma- 
terials to  a  moderate  heat.    As  an  external 
stimulaut  application  it  is  even  more  powerful 
than  the  spirits ;  and  to  obtain  its  full  influ- 
ence, the  part  treated  should  be  also  covered 
with  flannel  and  oil  silk.     It  forms  a  valuable 
liniment  in  chronic  rheumatism,   and  other 
painful  affections,  and  is  specially  valuable  as 
a  counter-irritant  in  sore  or  inflamed  throats, 
and  diseased  bowels. 

4864.  Arnica  Liniment.    Add  to  1  pint 
sweet  oil,  2  table-spoonfuls  tincture  of  arnica; 
or  the  leaves  may  be  heated  in  the  oil  over  a 
slow  fire.     Good  for  wounds,  stifi' joints,  rheu- 
matism, and  all  injuries. 

4865.  London  Liniment.     Take  chlo- 
roform, olive  oil,  and  aqua-ammonia,  of  each 
1  ounce ;  acetate  of  morphia,  10  grains.     Mix, 
and  use  as  other  liniments.     Very  valuable. 


4866.  Valuable  Embrocation.  Take 
•£  ounce  camphor,  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and 
dissolve  it  in  k  pint  spirits  of  wine  in  a  closely 
corked  bottle;  when  completely  dissolved, 
add  1  pint  ox-gall  (which  can  be  had  of  any 
butcher),  and  about  40  or  GO  drops  laudanum ; 
shake  it  well  and  bottle  it  for  use.  Apply  lint 
dipped  into  it. 

4867.  Hungarian  Counter-irritant 
Liniment.  Macerate  for  a  week  1  drachm 
powdered  cantharides,  1  drachm  sliced  garlic, 
4  drachms  each  camphor,  bruised  mustard 
seed,  and  black  pepper,  in  6  fluid  ounces 
strong  vinegar  and  12  fluid  ounces  rectified 
spirit ;  then  filter. 

4868.  Liniment  for  Wounds.  In  1 
quart  alcohol  dissolve  1  ounce  each  saltpetre 
and  gum  camphor,  and  1  table-spoonful  of 
salt.  "When  dissolved  the  liniment  is  ready 
for  use,  and  is  a  magical  remedy. 

4869.  Steer's    Opodeldoc,    or    Soap 
Liniment.     "White  castile  soap,  cut  small,  2 
jounds;  camphor,  5  ounces ;  oil  of  rosemary, 
[  ounce ;  oil  of  origanum,  2  ounces ;  rectified 
spirit,  1  gallon ;  dissolve  in  a  corked  bottle  by 
;he  heat  of  a  water-bath;  and  when  consider- 
ably cool,  strain,  then  add  liquor  of  ammonia, 
11  ounces;  immediately  put  it  in  bottles,  cork 

lose,  and  tie  over  with  bladder.  It  will  be 
very  fine,  solid  and  transparent,  when  cold. 

4870.  Liquid  Opodeldoc.     Take  2  oun- 
;es  castile  soap  shavings,  and  dissolve  it  in  1 

quart  alcohol,  with  gentle  heat,  then  add  1 
ounce  camphor,  i  ounce  oil  rosemary,  and  2 
ounces  spirits  hartshorn. 

4871.  Belladonna  Liniment  for  Skin 
Diseases.     Take  4  drachms  extract  of  bella- 
donna, 1  ounce  glycerine,  and  6  ounces  soap 
liniment.     (See  No.  48G9.)     For  rheumatism, 
neuralgia,  painful  swellings,  <fec. 

4872.  Black  Oils.     Best  alcohol,  tinc- 
ture of  arnica,  British  oil,  and  oil  of  tar,  of 
each  2  ounces;  and  slowly  add  sulphuric  acid, 
i   ounce.     Extensively  used  as  a  liniment, 

Sarticularly  in  cases  where  there  is  much  in- 
animation. 

4873.  Factitious  Oil  of  Spike.     Oil  of 
turpentine,  3  pints ;  oil  of  lavender,  1  pint ; 
mix.     Used  by  enamelers  to  mix  their  colors 
in.     Or :  Oil  of  turpentine,  1  gallon ;  Barba- 
does  tar,  4  ounces;  alkanct  root,  2  ounces; 
digest  a  week.     Used  as  a  liniment  for  horses. 

4874.  Liniment  of  Cantharides.    Pow- 
dered Spanish  flies,  1  drachm ;  oil  of  turpen- 
tine, 1  fluid  ounce ;  digest  2  hours  and  filter. 
Or:  Tincture  of  cantharides  and  soap  liniment 
(see  No.  48G9),  equal  parts;  mix.     Both  the 
above  are  irritant  and  stimulant,  but  should 
be  used  cautiously,  lest  they  produce  stran- 
gury. 

4875.  Hydrochloric  Acid  Liniment. 
Take  of  olive  oil,  £  Imperial  pint;  pure  sper- 
maceti   and     camphor,    of    each     5     ounce 
avoirdupois ;   balsam  of  Peru,  £  ounce ;  mix 
by  a  gentle  heat,  add  £  fluid  ounce  hydro- 
chloric acid,  and  stir  until   quite  cold.     An 
excellent  friction  for  chilblains  before  they 
break.     The  balsam  of  Peru  may  be  omitted 
if  the  cost  be  an  object. 

4876.  Compound  Chloroform    Lini- 
ment.    This  is   composed  of  1  ounce   each 
chloroform,  ether,  spirit  of  camphor,  and  laud- 
anum, and  |  ounce  tincture  of  cayenne  pepper. 
For  rheumatic  pains. 


LINIMENTS. 


4:4.5 


4877.  Petroleum  Liniment.    Mix  to- 
gether 1  ounce  petroleum.  £  ounce  camphor, 
and  ^  drachm  alcohol. 

4878.  Opium  Liniment.     Mix  2  ounces 
laudanum  with  6  ounces  soap  liniment.    (See 
No.  4869.)     It  constitutes  an  excellent  sooth- 
ing application  in  rheumatism,  sprains,  and 
'other  painful  affections. 

4879.  Belladonna  Liniment  for  Lead 
Colic.    Take  40  grains  extract  of  belladonna,  1 
drachm  rectified  ether,  and  2  fluid  ounces 
cherry-laurel  water.      As  a  friction  to   the 
abdomen  in  lead  colic. 

4880.  Compound  Camphor  Liniment, 
or  Essence  for  Headache.     Take  of  cam- 
phor, 2J  ounces  avoirdupois ;  oil  of  lavender, 

1  fluid  drachm ;  rectified  spirit,  15  fluid  oun- 
ces ;  dissolve,  then  add  of  liquor  of  ammonia 
(specific  gravity    .882-.880),  5  fluid  ounces, 
and  shake  them  until  mixed.   It  is  powerfully 
stimulant,    rubefacient,  and  counter-irritant. 
A  piece  of  folded  linen  wetted  with  it  applied 
to  the  part,  and  then  covered  with  a  towel, 
and  pressed  with  the  hand,  or  covered  with  a 
piece  of  oiled  silk,  will  generally  relieve  su- 
perficial pains. 

4881.  Liniment  Volatile,  or   Magic 
Pain  Killer.     Spirit  of  hartshorn,  1  ounce ; 
olive    oil,    1£    ounces ;     cayenne    pepper,    2 
drachms;    laudanum,   2  drachms;    1    table- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  2  of  brandy.     Shake  well 
in  a  bottle.     Rub  the  affected  part  with  it, 
apply  afterwards  a  rag  saturated  with  it.     It 
removes  pains  and  swellings.    It  is  a  magic 
remt'dv. 

4882.  Instantaneous    Pain    Killer. 
Another  and  even  more  instant  cure  of  pain 
is  made  as  follows :  Take  aqua-ammonia,  sul- 
phuric ether,  and  alcohol,  equal  parts,  and 
applv  over  the  pain. 

4883.  Chilblain    Liniment.     Take  1 
ounce  of  camphorated  spirit,  \  ounce  of  the 
liquor  of  subacetate  of  lead.     Mix  and  apply 
3  or  4  times  a  day.   This  is  Sir  Astley  Cooper's 
prescription,  and  a  very  efficacious  remedy 
for  chilblains. 

4884.  Rheumatic  Liniment.    Tincture 
of  cayenne,  oil  of  turpentine,  olive  oil,  hem- 
lock oil,  gum  camphor,  sassafras  oil,  tincture 
of  prickly  ash,  of   each  1  ounce ;  powdered 
capsicum,  or  cayenne,  1  ounce ;  spirit  of  wine, 

2  quarts ;    vinegar,    1    quart ;    ammonia,    1 
quart ;   add  2  ounces  gum  camphor.      Mix, 
put  in   a  vessel,   and    stir    occasionally  till 
mixed  and  dissolved.   This  is  a  magic  liniment, 
soon  giving  ease  in  rheumatic  pains,  gout, 
neuralgia,   sprains,   &c.,   &c.    It    seldom    or 
never  fails.      "Good   Samaritan"  is  also   an 
excellent  remedy  for  rheumatism.     (Sec  No. 
4858.)      Bathe    the    parts    affected    freely, 
and  wet  a  piece  of  flannel  and  bind  on  the 
parts. 

4885.  Good  Liniment  for  Rheumat- 
ics.    Take  1  gill  each  of  alcohol,  beefs  gall, 
spirits  of  turpentine  and  sweet  oil,  and  4  oun- 
ces gum  camphor.     Put  them  all  in  a  bottle 
and  shake  it  up  ;  use  it  2  or  3  times  a  day,  a 
tea-spoonful  at  a  time.     Apply  it  to  the  parts 
affected,  before    the  fire.     It  is  good,  also, 
for  frost-bites. 

4836.  Liniment  for  Old  Rheumatic 
Pains.  A  powerful  liniment  for  old  rheu- 
matic pains,  especially  when  affecting  the 
loins,  is  the  following :  Camphorated  oil  and 


spirits  of  turpentine,  of  each  2  parts ;  water 
of  ammonia,  1  part ;  laudanum,  1  part ;  to  be 
well  shaken  together. 

4887.  Gebhard's  Liniment  for  Sprains 
and  Bruises.      Mix  together  2  ounces  each 
oil  of  spike  and  British  oil ;  1  pint  tanner's 
oil ;  i  pint  spirits  of  turpentine ;  put  it  into 
an  iron  or  copper  kettle  placed  over  a  fire,  and 
carefully    stir    in    i    ounce    sulphuric    acid. 
"When  the  whole  becomes  quite  hot,  cool  and 
bottle.     This  is  an  excellent  liniment  for  all 
kinds  of  sprains  and  bruises,  and  for  horses  or 
cattle  it  cannot  be  surpassed. 

4888.  Stimulating'  Liniment.      Cay- 
enne,   li    ounces;     salt,    1    table-spoonful; 
spirits  of  wine,  2  ounces ;  camphor,  A  ounce  ; 
spirits   of   turpentine,   J  pint.      Bottle,   and 
shake  now  and  then  during  one  day.   Then  add 
^  pint  vinegar.    It  is  excellent  for  sponging 
the  body  in  cases  of  pain,  debility,  inflam- 
mation, rheumatism,  gout,  sore  throat,  numb- 
ness, neuralgia,  &c. 

4889.  Embrocation  for  Bruises.   Pour 
upon  2  ounces  carbonate  of  ammonia  (smell- 
ing salts)  as  much  distilled  vinegar  as  will 
dissolve  it,  then  add  1£  pints  common  recti- 
fied spirit,  and  shako  the  whole  together  in  a 
bottle.    It  is  a  good  remedy  for  sprains  and 
bruises. 

4890.  Cajeput    Liniment.      Mix    to- 
gether? ounces  soap  liniment  (see  No.  4869), 
^  ounce  camphor,  and  1  ounce  oil  of  cajeput. 

4891.  Caiitharid.es  Liniment  for  Chil- 
blains.     Mix  together  2   ounces  soap  lini- 
ment and  1  ounce  tincture  of  Spanish  flies. 
Apply  at  intervals  during  the  day. 

4892.  Compound  Mustard  Liniment. 
Take  of  oil  of  mustard,  1  fluid  drachm ;  ether- 
eal extract  of  mezereon,  40  grains;  camphor, 
120  grains;  castor-oil,  5  fluid  drachms;  alco- 
hol, 4  fluid  ounces;  dissolve  the  extract  of 
mezereon  and  camphor  in  the  alcohol,  and 
add  the  oil  of  mustard  and  castor-oil. 

4893.  Nerve   and    Bone   Liniment. 
Take   1   ounce  spirits  of  turpentine,   i   pint 
brandy,  and  1   gill  neat's-foot  oil.     Simmer 
over  a  fire  till  mixed ;  then  put  it  into  bottles 
for  use. 

4894.  Mustard  Oil  Ointment.     Crude 
mustard-seed   oil,  16  fluid  ounces;    ethereal 
oil  of  mustard,  30  drops;  water  of  ammonia,  4 
fluid  ounces,  or  a  sufficient  quantity  to  form 
into  a  soap.   Mix  and  bottle  in  broad-mouthed 
phials  containing  about  2  ounces. 

4895.  "Wonderful  Ointment.     The  fol- 
lowing liniment  is  good  for  all  sprains,  bruises, 
lameness,  <fec. :  Mix  together  2  ounces  oil  of 
spike;   2  ounces  origanum;  2  ounces  hem- 
lock; 2  ounces  wormwood;  4  ounces  sweet 
oil;  2  ounces   spirit  of  ammonia;  2  ounces 
gum  camphor;   2  ounces  spirits  turpentine. 
Add  1  quart  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  mix  well  to- 
gether,  and  bottle  tight.     This    is    an   un- 
cqualed  horse  liniment,  and,  by  omitting  the 
turpentine,   it  constitutes  one    of   the    best 
liniments    ever  made  for    human    ailments, 
such  as  rheumatism,  sprains,  <fcc. 

4896.  Horse  Embrocation.     Take  -j- 
ounce  each  of  oil  of   spike,  oil  of  monarda 
(horsemiut),  and  strong  ammonia  water;  £ 
ounce  acetate  of  opium,  1  ounce  chloroform, 
2  ounces  tincture  of  camphor,  1  ounce  oil  of 
origanum,   and    2    ounces    oil    of  camphor. 
This  is  said  to  be  an  excellent  preparation. 


PILLS. 


Pills.      This  form  of  medicine  is  par- 
ticularly adapted  for  administering  nau- 
seous substances,  and  such  as  operate  in  small 
doses.    Extracts  may  be  made  into  pills  either 
alone  or  with  the  addition  of  any  simple  pow-  i 
der,  as  that  of  liquorice,  to  increase  their  con- 
sistence.     Powders  are  usually    beaten    np 
with   syrup,  mucilage,  conserve  of  roses,  or 
extract  of  liquorice.     Castile  soap  is  frequent- 
ly used  for  substances  that  are  not  decomposed 
by  alkalies.     When  the  mixed  ingredients  are 
made  into  a  mass,  it  should  be  preserved  in  a 
bladder  placed  in  a  covered  stone  pot,  and 
occasionally  moistened  with  a  little  spirit,  or 
spirit  and  water,  to  prevent  it  getting  hard. 
In  all  cases  the  dry  ingredients  should  be  re- 
duced to  fine  powder,  and  the  whole  beaten 
into  a  uniform  mass  of  a  proper  consistenc 
for  rolling  into  pills.     This  is  effected  by  roll 
ing  it  on  a  slab  into  a  convenient  thickness 
and    dividing    into    pieces    of   the  requisitt 
weight,  lastly  rolling  them  between  the  thuml 
and  finger,  to  give  them  a  globular  form.    A 
pill  machine  is  usually  employed  for  dividing 
the  roll  and  shaping  the  pills.     In  ordinarj 
cases,  rolling  the  pills  in  carbonate  of  magne 
sia  or  powdered  starch  is  usually  adopted,  to 
prevent  them  sticking  together  while  moist 
For  other  pills  not  under  this  heading,  see 
Index. 

4898.  To  Sugar-coat  Pills.     To  sugar- 
coat,  place  the  pills  dry  and  smooth  in  a  rounc 
copper  pan  or  porcelain  dish.    In  another  pan 
dissolve  white  sugar  in  water  in  the  same  pro- 
portion as  for  making  simple  syrup;  and,  when 
dissolved,  slowly  evaporate  the  syrup  until  il 
feathers ;  that  is,  when  a  small  portion  taken 
out  with  a  ladle  and  drawn  up  between  two 
fingers  forms  a  thread.    The  pan  with  the 
pills  is  next  suspended  over  a  slow  fire,  a  lit- 
tle fine  flour  is  sprinkled  over  them,  and  imme- 
diately after  a  spoonful  of  the  syrup  is  poured 
on,  or  enough  to  cover.     The  pan  is  now  kept 
swinging  or  moving  over  the  fire,  care  being 
taken  not  to  burn  the  sugar  by  too  much 
heat,  until  it  is  reduced  to  a  fine  dust.    Then 
more  sugar  is  added,  and  the  swinging  and 
drying  continued  until  a  coat  of  sufficient 
thickness  is  obtained. 

4899.  To  Silver  or  Gild  Pills.    Pills 
are  gilded  and  silvered  by  rolling  them  be- 
tween the  fingers  slightly  moistened    with 
mucilage,  and  then  shaking  them  up  in  a 
small  gallipot  covered  with  a  piece  of  paper, 
along  with  a  little  gold  or  silver  leaf,  or  a  lit- 
tle powdered  gold  or  silver. 

4900.  Aloes  Pills.    Make  1  ounce  aloes 
and  1  ounce  soap  into  a  mass  with  water. 
Divide  into  240  pills. 

4901.  Aloes  and  Assafcetida  Pills. 
Take  k  ounce  each  powdered  aloes,  a^saftetida, 
and  soap,  made  into  a  mass  with  water.    Di- 
vide into  180  pills. 

4902.  Aloes  and  Myrrh  Pills.     Mix;  1 
ounce  aloes,    k  ounce  myrrh,   and  f  ounce 
saffron,  with  sufficient  syrup  to  make  a  mass. 
This  is  sufficient  for  240  pills. 

4903.  Assafcetida  Pills.     Mix  into  a 
mass  with  water  J  ounce  assafoatida  and  i 
ounce  soap.     Make  into  120  pills. 

4904.  Sulphate  of  Quinine  Pills.   Mix 
J  ounce  sulphate  of  quinine  with  1  drachm 
powdered  gum-arabic,  and  make  into  a  mass 


with  honey.    To  make  240  pills,  each  of  which 
will  contain  1  grain  of  quinine. 

4905.  Quinia  Pills  for  Chronic   In- 
termittent Fever.     Mix  20  grains  sulphate 
of  (juinia.  2   grains  powdered  opium,  and  5 
minims  oleo-resin  of  pepper,  with   sufficient 
syrup  of  gum-arabic  to  make  a  mass.     Make 
into  20  pills.     Dose,  2  pills  every  hour  in  the 
morning  of  an  expected  chill. 

4906.  Alterative  Pills.    Take  24  grains 
blue  mass,  3  grains  pulverized  opium,  and  3 
grains  powdered  ipecacuanha.     Make  into  24 
pills. 

4907.  Vegetable  Anti-bilious  Pills. 
Take  54  grains  pulverized  compound  extract 
of  colocynth,  and  6  grains  podophyllin  (ex- 
tract of  may-apple  or  mandrake  root).    Make 
into  24  pills. 

4908.  Anti-chill  Pills.     Take  20  grains 
chinoidine,  40  grains  ferrocyanuret  of  iron,  20 
grains  oil  of  black  pepper,  and  1  grain  arsenic. 
Make  up  into  20  pills. 

4909.  Aperient  Pills.'    Take  8  grains 
nux-vomica,    12  grains   extract   of  henbane, 
and  48  grains  compound  extract  of  colocynth. 
Make  into  24  pills. 

4910.  Diuretic  Pills.     Take  40  grains 
powdered  castile  soap,  40  grains  dry  carbonate 
of  soda,  and  20  drops  oil  of  juniper.     Make 
into  20  pills. 

4911.  Gonorrhea  Pills.    Take  48  grains 
powdered  cubcbs,  24   grains  solid  balsam  of 
cepaiba  (powdered),   12   grains   sulphate    of 
iron,  and  '36  grains  Yenice  turpentine.     Make 
into  24  pills. 

4912.      Mandrake    Mercurial    Pills. 
Take  6  grains  podophyllin  (extract  of  man- 
drake or  may  apple),  and  48  grains  blue  pill, 
ake  into^  pills. 

4913.  'Podophyllin,  Aloes,  and  Iron 
Pills.     Take  3  grains  podophyllin,  15  grains 
socotrine    aloes,    15   grains   extract   of   nux- 
vomica,  _  45  grains  dry  sulphate  of  iron,  l"0 
drops   oil  of  cloves,  and   sufficient  syrup  of 
gum-arabic  to  make  into  a  mass.     Divide  into 
30  pills,     Dose,  1  pill  immediately  before  each 
meal.    A  good  remedy  for  indigestion,  with 

lostiveness. 

4914.  Opium   Pills.      Mix  2    drachms 
opium  and  24  grains  soap  with  water,  to  make 
120  pills. 

4915.  Iodide  of  Iron  Pills.     Mix    1 
drachm   sulphate   of  iron,  4  scruples  iodide 
of  potassium,   10   grains  tragacanth,  and   J 
drachm  sugar  with  syrup.      Make  into    40 
pills. 

4916.  Compound  Iron  Pills.    Triturate 
.ogethcr  2  drachms  myrrh  and  1  drachm  car- 
bonate of  soda ;  then  add  1  drachm  sulphate 

>f  iron,  and  make  up  with  syrup  into  80  pills. 

4917.  Compound  Cathartic  Pills.  Take 
_  ounce  compound   extract  of  colocynth,   3 
drachms  extract  of  jalap,   3  drachms  mild 
chloride  of  mercury,  and  2  scruples  gamboge; 
mix  with  water  to  make  180  pills. 

4918.  Copaiba  Pills.      Mix  2  ounces 
copaiba  with  1  drachm  fresh  magnesia ;  set  it 

side  to  dry,  and,  when  the  mass  is  of  proper 
Consistency,  make  into  200  pills. 

4919.  Mercurial  Pills.    These  are  com- 
monly known  as  blue  pills.    Eub  1  ounce  mer- 
cury   with  1$  ounces    confection  of  roses; 
add  i  ounce  liquorice  root,  and  divide  into  480 


OINTMENTS,    SALVES,    AND    CERATES. 


4:4,7 


4920.  Calomel   Pills.      Mix    i    ounce 
mild  chloride  of  mercury  with  1  drachm  pow- 
dered gum-arabic.     Make  up  with  syrup,  into 
240  pills. 

4921.  Compound  Galbanum  Pills.    6 
drachms  myrrh,  and  2  drachms  assafoetida, 
mixed  with  sufficient  syrup.     Make  240  pills. 

4922.  Rhubarb  Pills.     Mix  3  drachms 
powdered  rhubarb  and  1  drachm  soap  with 
water  to  make  GO  pills. 

4923.  Compound  Rhubarb  Pills. 
Form  into  a  mass  with  sufficient  water,  1 
ounce  rhubarb,  6  drachms  aloes,  i  ounce 
myrrh,  and  i  fluid  drachm  oil  of  peppermint. 
Divide  into  240  pills. 

4924.  Compound  Pills  of  Squill.    Mix 

1  drachm  powdered  squill,  2  drachms  ammo- 
niac, and  2  drachms  ginger,  with  3  drachms 
soap.     Make  up  with  syrup  into  120  pills. 

4925.  Compound  Storax  Pills.     Take 
6  drachms  of  storax,  2  drachms  of  powdered 
opium,  and  2  drachms  of  saffron ;  work  up  to 
the  proper  consistency  of  a  pill  mass.    Dose, 
from  5  to  10  grains. 

4926.  Sulphur    Pills.     The    following 
formula  furnish  a  convenient  and  neat  method 
of   administering  sulphur  when  this   useful 
medicine  is  required  to  be  given  as  an  altera- 
tive in  chronic  rheumatism  and  certain  dis- 
eases of  the  skin :    Take  sulphur,  42  grains ; 
castile  soap,  18  grains.    Mix  and  divide  into  12 
pills.     1   to  3  pills  for  a  dose,  morning  and 
night.     Or :  Take  sulphur  and  acetate  of  po- 
tassa,  of  each  24  grains.     Make  up  with  suffi- 
cient confection  of  roses  into  12  pills.     1  or 

2  twice  a  day  in  scorbutic  and  scrofulous 
cases,  and  when  sulphur  generally  is  indicated. 

4927.  Sulphite   of   Soda   Pills.     Dr. 
Polli,  who  introduced  the   sulphites  to  the 
notice  of  the  medical  profession  in  certain 
blood    diseases,   recommends    the    following 
formula :  Take  powdered  sulphite  of  soda,  36 
grains;   powdered  ginger,  12  grains.    Make 
up  with  mucilage  into  12  pills.    Dose,  1  to  3 
soon  after  eating.    These  are  given  when  the 
stomach  is  foul,  and  the  food  ferments  and 
becomes  putrescent.    The  sulphite  of  magne- 
sia, Dr.  Polli  says,  is  better  for  this  purpose 
than  sulphite  of  soda.     Sulphur  obtained  by 
decomposing  precipitated  sulphide  of  copper, 
called  brotvn  sulphur,  is  stated  by  Dr.  J.  Han- 
non,   an  English   Physician,   to  be  a    most 
powerful  remedy  against  gout  and  rheuma- 
tism. 

4928.  Pepsine  and  Iron  Pills.    Mix 
together  2  drachms  34  grains  starchy  pepsine, 
and  half   that  weight  of  iodide   of  iron  in 
crystals,  with  sufficient  syrup  to  make  100 
pills.     Cover  them  with  2£  drachms  reduced 
iron,  and  finish  with  sugar-coating. 

4929.  Compound   Taraxacum   Pills. 
Take  -J  drachm  extract  of  taraxacum,  and  10 
grains  blue  pill.     Make  into  10  pills.     Dose,  1 
pill  three  times  a  day,  in  dropsy  with  disease 
of  the  liver. 

4930.  Pills  of  Iodide  of  Iron.     Mix  h 
troy  ounce  iodine  with  1  fluid  ounce  water  in 
a  thin  glass  bottle  ;  add  2  drachms  iron  wire 
in  small  pieces,  and  shake  together  until  a 
clear  green  solution  is  formed.     Mix  1  troy 
ounce  sugar,  i  troy  ounce  marshmallow,   1 
drachm    gum-arabic,  and  1   drachm  reduced 
iron,  all  in  fine  powder,  in  a  porcelain  capsule. 
Filter  upon  them,  through  a  small  filter,  first 


the  green  solution,  heated,  and  afterwards  2 
fluid  drachms  water.  Evaporate  over  a  water- 
bath  with  constant  stirring,  to  a  mass,  and 
divide  it  into  300  pills.  Dissolve  GO  grains 
balsam  of  tolu  in  1  fluid  drachm  ether,  shako 
the  pills  in  the  solution  until  uniformly  coated, 
and  place  them  on  a  plate,  occasionally  stir- 
ring them  until  dry.  Keep  in  a  well  stop- 
pered bottle.  (U.  S.  PJi.)  The  iodide  of  iron 
pills,  as  ordinarily  prepared,  crumble  by  time 
and  exposure ;  but,  made  according  to  the 
above  formula,  they  will  undergo  no  change. 
This  is  the  plan  proposed  by  Prof.  Procter  in 
imitation  of  Blancard's  Pills.  (U.  S.  Dis.) 


Ointments,  Salves,  and 
Cerates.  Ointments  are  unc- 
tuous preparations,  that  merely  differ  from 
cerates  in  consistence,  being  made  and  used 
in  a  similar  manner.  Their  solidity  should 
not  exceed  that  of  good  butter,  at  the  ordi- 
nary temperature  of  the  atmosphere.  When 
the  active  ingredients  are  pulverulent  substan- 
ces, nothing  can  be  more  suitable  to  form  the 
mass  of  the  ointment  than  good  lard,  free 
from  salt ;  but  when  they  are  fluid,  or  semi- 
fluid, prepared  suet,  or  a  mixture  of  suet  and 
lard,  will  be  necessary  to  give  a  proper  con- 
sistence to  the  compound;  in  some  few  in- 
stances wax  is  ordered  for  this  purpose. 
Glycerine  is  now  frequently  prescribed  in 
ointments,  and  is  difficult  to  mix.  Suppose 
it  be  ordered  with  zinc  ointment,  as  is  often 
the  case,  do  not  use  ready-made  zinc  ointment, 
but  weigh  the  proper  quantity  of  oxide,  rub 
the  glycerine  with  it,  and  then  add  the  lard. 
This  makes  a  good  smooth  ointment  which 
does  not;  separate.  Of  course,  the  same  plan 
can  be  adopted  svith  any  other  powder.  If 
there  be  no  powder,  melt  the  ointment,  but 
do  not  let  it  get  too  hot,  and  beat  the  glycer- 
ine in  and  stir  till  cold ;  it  then  mixes  much 
better ;  but  still,  if  there  be  a  large  proportion 
of  glycerine,  it  will  separate  after  a  time. 
(See  No.  5009,  ^-c.)  Unctuous  preparations 
may  be  prevented  from  getting  rancid,  by  dis- 
solving in  the  fat  a  little  gum-benzoin  or  ben- 
zoic  acid.  The  term  cerate  is  applied  to  those 
unguents  which  contain  wax.  A  number  of 
these  preparations  are  given  here,  and  others 
will  be  found,  by  referring  to  the  Index,  under 
their  respective  headings. 

4932.  Simple  Cerate.      Melt  together 
8  ounces  lard,  and  4  ounces  white  wax,  stir- 
ring constantly  until  cold.     (  U.  S.  Pli.) 

4933.  Spermaceti   Cerate.      Melt  to- 
gether 2  ounces  spermaceti,  8  ounces  white 
wax,  and  1  pint  warm  olive  oil,  and  stir  assi- 
duously until  cold.     This  is  used  as  a  soft 
cooling  dressing.     As  soon  as  the  materials 
are  melted,  they  should  be  moved  from  the 
fire,  strained  into  a  clean  vessel,  and  stirred 
until  cold.     To  facilitate  the  cooling,  the  ves- 
sel may  be  placed  in  cold  water  or  a  current 
of  cold  air.     This  will  render  the  product 
both  whiter  and  finer  than  when  allowed  to 
cool    by  itself.      The  operation  of  melting 
should  be  performed  in  a  water-bath.      On 
the  large  scale  lard  or  suet  is  substituted  for 
oil,  by  which  means  less  wax  is  required. 
The  following  is  a  good  form  where  a  cheap 


4,4:8 


OINTMENTS,    SALVES,    AND    CERATES. 


article  is  -wanted  :  Clarified  mutton  suet,  Si- 
pounds  ;  vrhito  wax  and  spermaceti,  of  each  4 
pounds.  As  above. 

4934.  Chilblain  Ointment.      Take  of 
gall-nuts,  in   very  fine    powder,   1    drachm 
avoirdnpcis ;     spermaceti    cerato    (see    No. 
4933),  7  drachms ;  mix,  add  pnro  glycerine, 
2  drachms,  and  rub  the  -whole  to  a  uniform 
mass.    An  excellent  application  to  obstinate 
broken  chilblains,  particularly  -when  used  as  a 
dressing.     "When  the  parts  are  very  painful,  1 
ounce  of  compound  ointment  of  galls  may  bo 
advantageously  substituted  for  the  galls  and 
cerato  ordered  above.     (Sec  No.  C003.) 

4935.  Family  Salve.     Take  the  root  of 
fellow  dock  and  dandelion,  equal  parts ;  add 
good  proportion  of  celandine  and  plantain. 
Extract  the  juices  by  steeping  or  pressing. 
Strain  carefully,  and  simmer  the  liquid  with 
sweet  crearn,   or  fresh  butter    and    mutton 
tallow,    or    sweet    oil    and    mutton    tallow. 
Simmer  together  until  no  appearance  of  the 
liquid  remains.    Before  it  is  quite  cold,  put 
it  into  boxes.    This  is  one  of  the  most  sooth- 
ing and  healing  preparations  for  burns,  scalds, 
cuts,  and  sores  of  every  every  description. 

4936.  Salve  for  All  Wounds.    Take  1 
pound  hog's  lard,  3  ounces  white  lead,  3  oun- 
ces red  lead,  3  ounces  bees'-wax,  2  ounces 
black  resin,  and  4  ounces  common  turpentine ; 
all  these  ingredients  must  bo  put  together  in 
a  pan,  and  boil  £  of  an  hour ;  the  turpentine 
to  be  put  in  just  before  it  is  done  enough,  and 
give  it  a  gentle  boil  afterwards.     This  is  an 
excellent  cure  for  burns,  sores,  or  ulcers,  as  it 
first  draws,  then  heals  afterwards ;  it  is  excel- 
lent fjr  all  wounds. 

4937.  Lard  Ointment.     Melt  2  pounds 
pure  lard,  add  3  fluid  ounces  rose-water,  and 
beat  them  well  together  while  hot.    When 
cold,   separate  the  congealed  fat   from  the 
wator.    This  is  simple  lard  ointment. 

4938.  Savine  Ointment.     Savine  tops, 
dried  and  in  fine  powder,  1  drachm ;  ointment 
of  white  wax  (?imple  ointment),  7  drachms; 
mix  by  trituration. 

4939.  Simple   Ointment   of  White 
Wax.      Olive  oil,   5i  fluid  ounces;    white 
•wax,  2  ounces ;  melted  together  and  stirred 
•while  cooling. 

4940.  Spermaceti  Ointment.      Melt 
together  5  ounces  spermaceti,    14  drachms 
•white  wax,  and  about  1  pint  olive  oil.     The 
article  commonly  sold   as  spermaceti    oint- 
ment is  composed  of  1  pound  spermaceti,  k 
pound  white  wax,  and  from  3  to  6  pounds 
pure  lard. 

4941.  Camphor  Ointment.     Camphor, 
finely  powdered,   1   ounce;   lard,  2  ounces. 
Mix.     It  is  designed  to  ripen  indolent  tumors. 

4942.  Compound  Iodine  Ointment. 
Mix  1  drachm  iodide  of  potassium  in  very 
fine  powder,  with  2  ounces  lard ;  then  add  i 
drachm  iodine   dissolved  in  1  fluid  drachm 
rectified  spirit. 

Fresh  lard  cannot  always  bo  got,  and  as 
^ng  as  simple  cerate  is  directed  to  be  made 
with  white  wax,  an  already  rancid  body,  it 
happens  very  often  that  an  ointment  of 
iodide  of  potassium  gets  yellow,  instead  of 
being  perfectly  white.  A  few  grains  of  hy- 
posulphite- of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  water, 
added  to  such  ointment,  will  havo  the  effect 
of  turning  it  snow-white. 


4943.  Compound  Belladonna   Oint- 
ment.    Mix  1  drachm  fresh  extract  of  bel- 
ladonna with  7  drachms  of  compound  iodine 
ointment.    (See    No.   4942.)     For  dispersing 
glandular  tumors,  &c.,  which  it  is  not  desira- 
ble to  mature. 

4944.  Ammoniacal  Ointment.     Melt 
1  ounce  each  of  suet  and  lard,  in  a  strong 
wide-mouthed  bottle;  add  2  ounces  liquor  of 
ammonia  of  specific  gravity  .923,   and  close 
the  bottle  immediately.    Then  mix,  by  sha- 
king the  bottle,   until  the  contents  harden. 
The  fat  should  not  bo  heated  any  more  than 
is  sufficient  to  melt  it,  to  prevent  unneces- 
sary loss  of  ammonia. 

4945.  Catechu  Ointment  for  Tropical 
Climates.     An  astringent  ointment  may  be 
prepared,  which  is  not  likely  to  become  soon 
rancid,  as  is  the  case  with  ointments  made 
with  fat.    Melt  4  ounces  resin  in  4  pint  olive 
oil ;  add  1  ounce  alum  and  3  ounces  catechu, 
both  finely  powdered. 

4946.  Stramonium  Ointment.     Mash 
bushel  of  green    stramonium,    or  jimson 

leaves,  to  a  pulp  (this  is  best  done  by  mash- 
ing a  few  leaves  at  a  time),  put  the  pulp  in 
an  iron  kettle  over  a  slow  fire.  Add  2| 
pounds  fresh  lard,  and  simmer  to  a  crisp. 
Strain  and  box  for  use.  Or:  Take  extract  of 
stramonium,  1  drachm;  lard,  1  ounce,  and  mix 
by  trituration.  This  ointment  is  excellent 
for  strengthening  broken  limbs  after  the 
bones  have  healed.  It  is  also  good  for  skin 
diseases,  painful  piles,  ulcers,  burns  and 
as  it  scalds.  It  is  probably  the  best  ointment  that 
can  be  kept  in  a  family  for  general  use.  . 

4947.  Mercurial   or    Citrine     Oint- 
ment.    Dissolve  by  gentle  heat,  4  ounces 
mercury  (quicksilver)  in  70  fluid  drachms  ni- 
tric acid  cf  specific  gravity  1.5;  add  the  liquid 
to  15  ounces  lard  and  32  fluid  ounces  olive 
oil ;  stir  together,  increasing  the  heat  until  tho 
mixture  froths.    Keep  it  in  air-tight  earthen- 
ware or  glass  vessels. 

4948.  Mild     Mercurial     Ointment. 
This  is  made  by  mixing  1  pound  mercurial 
ointment  with  2  pounds  lard. 

4949.  Magnetic  Adeps.     This  is  a  pre- 
pared fat  used  tor  making  mercurial  ointment, 
as  it  will  reduce  30  to  40  times  its  -weight  of 
quicksilver  to  salve.    It  is  made  by  pouring 
melted  lard,  in  a  small  stream,  into  cold  water, 
placing  the  thin  fragments  thus  obtained  in  a 
sieve  covered  with  paper,  or  other  suitable 
apparatus,  and  exposing  it  to  the  air  for  3  or 
4  months. 

4950.  Ointment  of  Iodide  of  Sulphur. 
Reduce  30  grains  iodide  of  sulphur  to  a  fine 
powder,  rub  it  with  a  small  portion  taken 
from  1  trey  ounce  lard,  then  add  the  remain- 
der of  tho   ounce    of  lard,    and  mix   them 
thoroughly.     (U.  S.  Ph.)  . 

4951.  Ointment  of  Borax.      This  is 
also  called  Pomade  de  Toscanic.       Take  of 
borax  in  very  fine  powder,  1  drachm   avoir- 
dupois; spermaceti  ointment,   1  ounce;  mix 
by  trituration.    lu  excoriations,  chaps,   <fec. 
It  also  forms  an  excellent  lip-salve.     A  drop 
of  neroli,  or  \  drop  of  otto  of  roses,  renders  it 
more  agreeable. 

4952.  Glycerinated      Ointment    of 
Borax.     To  the  borax  ointment,  as  prepared 
in  the  foregoing  receipt,  add  1  drachm  avoir- 
dupois   pure    glycerine,     using    a     slightly 


OINTMENTS,    SALVES,    AND    CERATES. 


44.9 


warmorl  mortar  for  the  mixture.    This  is  a 
very  ellective  ointment. 

4953.  Ointment  of  Creosote,  or  Creo- 
sote Pomade.     Take  of  creosote,   1    fluid 
drachm;  spermaceti  ointment  {see  No.  4940), 
1  ounce  avoirdupois  ;  triturate  them  together 
in  a  slightly  warmed  mortar  until  perfectly 
united,  and  subsequently  until  nearly  cold. 
It  is  used  as  a  dressing  for  scalds  and  burns, 
chilblains,  &c.     It  is  very  useful  in  ringworm 
and  some  other  skin  diseases ;  also  as  a  fric- 
tion in  facial  neuralgia  or  tic-douloureux. 

4954.  Ointment  for  the  Itch.      The 
usual  treatment   of  itch    has  been  noticed 
elsewhere,  and  various  lotions,  ointments  and 
pomades,  of  more  or  less  value  in  its  treat- 
ment, will  be  found  under  the  names  of  their 
leading  ingredients.     Here  are  two  additional 
formula} : 

4955.  French    Hospital    Itch  Oint- 
ment.    Take  of  chloride  of  lime,  1  drachm 
avoirdupois ;   rectified  spirit.  2  fluid  drachms; 
rub  them  together,  add  i  fluid  ounce  sweet- 
oil;   soft-soap,  2  ounces  ayiordupois;  oil  of 
lemon,  ^  fluid  drachm;  mix  perfectly,   and 
then  further  add  common  salt  and  sulphur,  of 
each    1   ounce.     Cheap,   very  effective,   and 
much  less  offensive  than  sulphur  ointment. 

4956.  Stavesacre  Ointment.    Melt  to- 
gether 1  ounce  powdered  stavesacre  (staphis- 
agria),  and  3  ounces  lard;  digest  for  3  or  4 
hours,  and   strain.      A    cleanly    remedy  for 
itch,  and  for  destroying  body  vermin. 

4957.  Ointment    for   Baker's    Itch. 
Mix  well  together!  ounce  ointment  of  nitrate 
of  mercury  (sec  No.  4947),  and  1  ounce  palm 
oil. 

4958.  Venice  Turpentine  Ointment. 
Yenice  turpentine,  2  ounces;  tar,   1  ounce; 
butter,  4  ounces.     Simmer  until  they  are  well 
mixed.      This  is  very  good  for  scald-head, 
ringworm,    &c.     First  wash  the  head  well 
with  soap   and  water,   and  then  apply  the 
ointment. 

4959.  Brown  Ointment.      Extract  of 
henbane,   1  drachm ;  yellow  wax,   i   ounce ; 
red  precipitate,  2  A  drachms;  pure  zinc,  pow- 
dered,   1J   drachms;   fresh   butter,  3  ounces. 
Melt  and  mix,  and  add  li  drachms  camphor 
dissolved  in  olive  oil.     This  ointment  is  good 
for  ringworm,    all  cutaneous   eruptions,   for 
ulcers,  sore  lips,  itch,  chronic  ophthalmia,  &c. 

4960.  Tar  Ointment.     Tar  and  mutton 
suet,  equal  parts ;  melt  together,  and  stir  till 
cold.     This  is  an  excellent  remedy  for  scald- 
head  and  ringworm. 

4961.  Tobacco  Ointment.    Fresh    to- 
bacco leaves,  chopped  small,  1  ounce ;  lard,  1 
pound;  boil  till  crisp,  and  strain  through  lime. 
U  sed  for  ringworm,  irritable  ulcers,  and  other 
diseases  of  the  skin.    It  should  be  used  with 
caution. 

4962.  Salt  Rheum  Ointment.     Mix  in 
an  earthen  vessel,  1  ounce  aqua-fortis,  with  1 
ounce   quicksilver;    when  effervescence  has 
ceased,  incorporate  with  it  1  pound  lard  and 
1  ounce    dissolved    hard    soap ;    then  work 
into    the    mixture   1   ounce  prepared   chalk 
and  i  table- spoonful  spirits  of  turpentine. 

4963.  Magnetic  Ointment.     Lard,  rai- 
sins cut  in  pieces,  and  fine-cut  tobacco,  equal 
weights ;   simmer  well  together,  then   strain 
and  press  out  all  from  the  dregs.    This  is  an 
excellent  ointment  for  salt-rheum  and  other 


skin  diseases.    It  is  also  good  for  piles,  bruis- 
es, and  cuts. 

4964.  Basilicon  Ointment.  Take  10 
ounces  resin,  4  ounces  yellow  wax,  and  16 
ounces  lard;  melt  them  together,  strain 
through  muslin,  and  stir  constantly  until 
cool.  This  is  the  resin  ointment  of  the  U.  S. 
Pharmacopoeia.  The  British  officinal  pre- 
paration contains  only  8  ounces  resin,  and 
substitutes  simple  ointment  for  the  lard. 

4965.  Yellow  Basilicon   Ointment. 
Yellow  wax,  8  ounces;    burgundy  pitch,   3 
ounces ;  Venice  turpentine,  4  ounces;  linseed 
oil,   10    ounces.      First   melt    the    resin,   to 
which  add  the  wax  and  the  burgundy  pitch. 
When  the  whole  is  melted,  remove  from  the 
fire,  and  slowly  put  in  the  oil,  stirring  well 
till  it  is  cold.   For  healing  cuts,  abscesses,  &c. 

4966.  Black    Basilicon    Ointment. 
Black  basilicon,    yellow    wax,    and    yellow 
resin,  10  ounces ;  common  pitch,  5  ounces. 
Melt  as  before,  and  add  10  ounces  linseed  oil 
when  taken  from  the  fire. 

4967.  Green    Basilicon    Ointment. 
Yellow  wax  and  yellow  resin,  of  each  3  oun- 
ces ;  Yenice  turpentine,  6  ounces ;  powdered 
verdigris,  1  ounce ;  lard,  6  ounces.    Melt  first 
the  resin,  <fcc.,  as  before.    Yery  efficacious  in 
healing  cuts,  abscesses,  and  local  affections 
of  any  kind. 

4968.  Saturnine  Cerate.      Powdered 
acetate  of  lead,  2  drachms ;  white  wax,  2  oun- 
ces ;  olive  oil,  £  pint.      Melt  the  wax  in  the 
oil,  and  add  gradually  the  acetate  of  lead, 
separately  rubbed  down  with  a  portion  of  the 
oil  reserved  for  that  purpose. 

4969.  Hemlock  Salve.     Hemlock  oint- 
ment,   12    ounces;     spermaceti,    2    ounces; 
white  wax,  3  ounces ;  melt  the  last  two,  then 
add  them  to  the  first,  softened  by  a  gentle 
heat.     Used  for  inveterate  cancerous,  scrofu- 
lous, and  other  sores. 

4970.  Green  Stick  Salve.   According  to 
the  American  Dispensatory,  this  is  prepared  by 
taking  white  gum  turpentine,  bayberry  wax, 
of  each  2  ounces ;  melt  together,  strain,  and 
stir  till  cold ;  adding  olive  oil  will  give  it  the 
consistence  of  an  ointment. 

4971.  Black,  or  Healing  Salve. 
Olive  oil,  1  pint;  common  resin,  i  ounce; 
bees'-wax,  \  ounce ;  Yenice  turpentine,  J 
ounce.  Melt,  raising  the  oil  nearly  to  the 
boiling  point ;  then  gradually  add  2  or  3  oun-< 
ces  powdered  red  lead  while  on  the  fire ;  do 
not  burn  it;  boil  slowly  till  it  becomes  a 
dark  brown ;  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  1 
drachm  powdered  camphor  when  it  is  nearly 
cold.  This  is  a  first-rate  healing  salve,  supe- 
rior to  most;  is  wonderful  in  burns,  scalds, 
scrofulous,  fistulous,  and  all  other  ulcers. 
Spread  on  linen,  and  renew  daily. 

4972.  Bed  Salve.     Red  salve,  1  pound ; 
bees'-wax  and  resin,  of  each  2  ounces ;  linseed 
and  sweet  oils,   of  each  3  table-spoonfuls; 
spirits  of  turpentine,  1  tea-spoonful ;  melt  all, 
except  the  first  and  last,  together,  then  stir 
in  the  lead  and  stir  until  cool,  adding  the 
turpentine.     Good  for  all  inflamed  sores. 

4973.  Green  Salve.     White  pine  tur- 
pentine and  lard,  \  pound  each;  honey  and 
bees'-wax,  £  pound  each ;    melt  all  together 
and  stir  in  k  ounce  of  very  finely  pulverized 
verdigris.     This  ointment  cannot  be  surpassed 
when  used  for  deep  wounds.     It  prevents 


450 


OINTMENTS,    SALVES,    AND    CERATES. 


Eroud  flesh  from  forming,  and  keeps  up  a 
ealthy  discharge. 

4974.  Green  Ointment.    Take  prepared 
Bubacetate  of  copper,  £  drachm;  ointment  of 
white  wax  {see  No.  4939),  7£  drachms.    Trit- 
urate the  subacetato  of  copper  with  the  oint- 
ment until   they  are  intimately  mixed.      A 
mild  caustic,  applied  to  venereal  ulcers  of  the 
mouth  and  tonsils,  and  to  the  ulcerated  sore 
throat  of  scarletina. 

4975.  Cod-JLiyer  Oil  Ointment.    Melt 
together  1  part  white  wax,  1  part  spermaceti, 
and  7    parts    pale    cod-liver  oil.      Used    for 
ophthalmia,  scrofulous  sores,  rheumatism,  stiff 
joints,  and  some  skin  diseases,  including  ring- 
worm.   Scented  with  oil  of  nutmeg  and  bal- 
sam of  Peru  it  forms  an  excellent  pomade  for 
strengthening  and  restoring  the  hair. 

4976.  Ointment  for  Old  Sores.    Ked 
precipitate,  4  ounce ;  sugar  of  lead,  4  ounce ; 
burnt  alum,  1  ounce;  white  vitriol,  J  ounce 
or  a  little  less ;  all  to  bo  very  finely  pulver- 
ized;   have    mutton    tallow  made  warm,   4 
pound;  stir  all  in,  and  stir  until  cool.     Good. 

4977.  Bitter-Sweet  Ointment.     Bark 
of  bitter-sweet  root,  2  ounces ;    cover  with 
spirits  of  wine,  and  add,  unsalted  butter,  8 
ounces.     Simmer  and  strain.    Excellent  for 
swelled  breasts,  tumors,  ulcers,  &c.     It  may 
be  applied  twice  a  day. 

4978.  Astringent   Ointment.     Tritu- 
rate 14  drachms  powdered  catechu  with  2 
fluid  drachms  boiling  water;  add,  gradually, 
1J  ounces  spermaceti  ointment,   continuing 
the  trituration  until  the  mass  concretes.   This 
is  an  excellent  dressing  for  sores  and  ulcers, 
especially  during  hot  weather. 

4979."  Neuralgia  Ointment.  Take  2 
drachms  each  of  cyanide  of  potassium,  and 
chloroform,  and  make  into  a  salve  with  1 
ounce  lard,  for  external  application. 

4980.  Ointment   of  Lead.    Take   of 
olive  oil,  4  pint;  white  wax,  2  ounces;  sugar 
of  lead,  3  drachms.     Let  the  sugar  of  lead, 
reduced  to  a  fine  powder,  be  nibbed  with 
some  of  the  oil,  and  added  to  the  other  in- 
gredients, previously  melted  together,  stirring 
them  till  quite  cold.    This  cooling  astringent 
ointment  may  be  used  in  all  cases  where  the 
intention  is  to  dry  and  skin  over  the  part,  in 
scalding,  &c. 

4981.  Zinc    Ointment.     Mix    1    ounce 
^oxide  of  zinc  and  6   ounces   lard.    This  is 
"astringent,    desiccative,    and    stimulant;    an 

excellent  and  useful  application  for  burns, 
excoriations,  and  skin  diseases  attended  by 
discharges. 

4982.  Chloroform  Ointment  for  Neu- 
ralgic   Pains.     Mix  1  drachm    chloroform 
with  1  ounce  spermaceti  ointment.     (See  No. 
4933.)     This    should    be    kept   in    a   wide- 
mouthed,  stoppered  phial. 

4983.  Belladonna  Anodyne  Oint- 
ment. Mix  3  drachms  fresh  and  good  extract 
of  belladonna,  4  drachm  powdered  opium, 
and  3  drachms  lard.  For  neuralgia,  <fcc.,  ap- 
ply with  friction  for  6  to  8  minutes. 

4984.  Aconitine  Ointment.  Aconitine, 
16  grains;  alcohol,  12  drops;  olive  oil,  4 
drachm ;  lard,  1  ounce.  Rub  the  aconitine 
with  the  spirit,  then  add  the  oil  by  drops,  and, 
after  it  is  thoroughly  mixed,  pour  in  the  lard 
rendered  nearly  liquid  by  heat ;  stir  well 
until  cold.  A  small  portion  is  applied  by  the 


tips  of  the  fingers  and  gentle  friction,  in  neu- 
ralgic and  rheumatic  affections,  &c. 

4985.  Ointment   for    Sore   Nipples. 
Glycerine,    rose-water,    and     tannin,    equal 
weights,  rubbed  together  into  an  ointment, 
is    very    highly   recommended    for    sore    or 

racked  nipples. 

4986.  Tannin    Ointment   for  Piles. 
Tannin,  2  drachms ;  water,  2  fluid  drachms ; 
triturate  together,  and  add  lard,  14  drachms. 
An  excellent  application  for  piles. 

4987.  Spackman's    Pile    Ointment. 
Mix  together  14  ounces  carbonate  of  load;  6 
grains  sulphate  of  morphia ;  1  ounce  stramo- 
nium ointment  (see  No.  4946) ;  and  sufficient 
olive  oil  to  make  into  a  salve. 

4988.  Ointment  for  Piles.     Triturate 
8  grains  morphia  in  1  ounce  melted  sperma- 
ceti ointment  (see  No.  4940),  until  the  mor- 
phia is  dissolved;    then  add  14  drachms  of 
galls  in  impalpable  powder,  12  to  15  drops  es- 
sential oil  of  almonds,  and  stir  until  the  mass 
is  cool. 

4989.  Pile  Salve.     Take  1  scruple  pow- 
dered opium,  2    scruples  flour  of  sulphur,  and 

1  ounce  of  simple  cerate.     (See  No.  4932.) 
Keep  the  affected  parts  well  anointed.    Be 
prudent  in  your  diet. 

4990.  Salve  for  Sore  Breasts.   Take  1 
pound  tobacco,  1  pound  spikenard,  4  pound 
of  cumfrey,  and  boil  them  in  3  quarts  cham- 
ber-lye till  almost  dry;  squeeze  out  the  juice, 
add  to  it  pitch  and  bees'-wax,  and  simmer  it 
over  a  moderate  heat  to  the  consistence  of 
salve.    Apply  it  to  the  part  affected. 

4991.  Iodide  of  Lead  Ointment.    An 
ointment  of  iodide  of  lead    composed"  of  4 
parts  iodide  of  lead,  4  parts  chloride  of  ammo- 
nium, and  50  of  lard,  is  either  of  a  yellow  or 
white  color,  according  to  the  manner  in  which 
these  ingredients  are  brought  together.   "When 
rubbed  together  dry,  the  color  of  the  mixture 
is  yellow ;  but  when  the  chloride  of  ammo- 
nium, in  order  to  facilitate  the  mixing,  is  first 
liquefied  in  a  small  quantity  of  water  before 
being  added  to  the  iodide  of  lead,  the  yellow 
color  of  the  latter  disappears,  owing  to  the 
formation  of  two  colorless  salts,  the  chloride 
of  lead  and  iodide  of  ammonium.     It  is  well 
in  cases  like  these  to  adhere  strictly  to  the 
directions  of  the  prescription.     (Eymael.) 

4992.  Ingall's   lodoform  Ointment. 
Dissolve  4  drachm  iodoform  in  sufficient  rec- 
tified alcohol,  and  make  into  an  ointment 
with  7£  drachms  lard.     lodoform  is  exten- 
sively and  successfully  used  in  the  treatment 
of  syphilitic  ulcers  and  rupia.     The  above 
formula  is  the  one  adopted  by  Dr.  Ingalls, 
attending  surgeon  of  the  Boston  city  hospital. 

4993.  Carbolic  Cerate.    Melt  together 
5  ounces  lard,  and  24  ounces  white  wax ;  add 
4  ounce  balsam  of  fir,  and  when  it  begins  to 
cool,  stir  in  4  ounce  carbolic  acid.     The  addi- 
tion of  balsam  fir  to  this  preparation  corrects 
the  disagreeable  odor  of  the  acid,  and  renders 
it  slightly  adhesive,  which  is  quite  desirable 
when  used  as  a  dressing  for  burns,  old  sores, 
&c.    (See  No.  4996.) 

4994.  Ointment  of  Tannate  of  Man- 
ganese.    Mix  3  grains  tannate  of  manganese 
with  1  troy  ounce  cold  cream.    {Sec  No.  1125.) 
This  is  a  good  application  for  bad  wounds. 

4995.  Tartar  Emetic  Ointment.    Take 

2  drachms  potassio-tartrate  of  antimony,  and 


OINTMENTS,    SALVES,    AND    CEEATES. 


rub  it  well  into  1  ounce  lard.  This  will  pro- 
duce an  eruption  on  the  skin  very  similar  to 
small-pox  in  appearance. 

4996.  Carbolic  Salve.     There  are  differ- 
ent formulae  recommended  for  this  salve,  con- 
taining different   amounts  of  carbolic   acid; 
the  character  of  the  disease  will  determine 
which  to  use.     The  carbolic  acid  employed  is 
the  crystallized  article,  sold  in  bottles,  and 
taken  out  by  warming  the  latter  in  hot  water, 
or  the  fluid  resulting  from  the  crystals,  which 
are  melted  in  warm  weather,  or  are  dissolved 
by  absorbing  a  little  water,  when  the  bottles 
are  not  perfectly  stoppered. 

I.  Take  carbolic  acid,  k  fluid  drachm,  and 
lard,  1  ounce.     Triturate  together  in  a  porce- 
lain mortar. 

II.  Take  carbolic  acid,  1  fluid  drachm,  and 
lard,  3  ounces.     Melt  the  lard  at  a  gentle  heat, 
add  the  carbolic  acid,  and  triturate  until  the 
mixture  is  cold. 

III.  Take  carbolic    acid,  1  fluid  drachm, 
and  ointment  of  white  wax  (see  No.  4939), 
7  drachms.     Prepare  as  No.  II.     (See  No. 
499:5.) 

4997.  Cerate  of  Sayine.      Moisten  3 
troy    ounces    savine    in    fine    powder    with 
ether;   pack  it  firmly  in  a  cylindrical  per- 
colator,   and    displace  with  ether  until  the 
percolate  passes  nearly  colorless.    Evaporate 

'  spontaneously  to  the  consistence  of  syrup, 
add  it  to  12  troy  ounces  resin  cerate  softened 
by  a  gentle  heat,  and  mix  thoroughly. 

4998.  Sulphur   Ointment.      Mix    to- 
gether 1  ounce  sublimed  sulphur  and  2  ounces 
lard. 

4999.  Itch  Ointment.      Washed  sul- 
phur, 1  i  ounces  ;  chloride  of  lime,  2  drachms ; 
hog's  lard,  4  ounces.    Mix  and  make  into  an 
ointment. 

5000.  Cucumber  Ointment.     Take  of 
oil  of  sweet  almonds,  7  fluid  ounces;  sper- 
maceti, 18  drachms  ;  white  wax,  5  drachms  ; 
glycerine,  1  fluid  ounce ;  green  cucumbers,  4 
pounds.     Cut  the  cucumbers  in  small  pieces, 
mash  them  in  a  wedgwood  mortar,  let  them 
macerate  in  their  own  liquor  for  12  hours, 
express   and    strain ;    melt  the  almond    oil, 
spermaceti,    and    wax    together,    by    means 
of   a    water-bath ;    add    to    it    the   strained 
liquor,  stirring  constantly  so  as  to  incorporate 
the  whole  together.     Set  aside  in  a  cool  place 
(an  ice-chest  preferred)  till  it  becomes  hard, 
then  beat  with  a  wooden  spoon,  so  as  to  sep- 
arate the   watery  portion  of  the  cucumbers 
from  the  ointment ;  pour  off  the  liquor  thus 
obtained,    and  mix  the  glycerine  with   the 
ointment  without  the  aid  of  heat,  by  work- 
ing it  with  the  hands  until  it  becomes  thor- 
oughly   incorporated.      Put    up    in    4-ounce 
jars,  cover  with  a  layer  of  rose-water,  and 
set  aside  in  a  cool  place. 

5001.  Foot-Rot  Ointment.     Lard  and 
Venice   turpentine,  4  ounces  of  each ;  melt 
and  add  1  ounce  blue  vitriol.     Good  for  cows 
or  sheep. 

5002.  Cracked  Hoof  Ointment.     Tar 
and  tallow,  equal  parts  melted  together. 

5003.  Compound  Resin  Cerate.     Melt 
together  12  tro_f  ounces  each  of  resin,  suet, 
and  yellow  wax ;  6  troy  ounces  turpentine, 
and  "7    troy    ounces    flax-seed    oil.      Strain 
through  muslin,  and  stir  constantly  till  cool. 
( U.  S.  Ph.)    This  preparation,  also  known  as 


Deshler's  Salve,  should  be  kept  well  protected 
from  the  air,  as  it  is  liable  to  become  tough 
by  exposure.  ( U.  S.  Dis. ) 

5004.  Egyptiacum  Salve.      Take  l.V 
ounces  verdigris,   1£  ounces    alum,  -J-  ounce 
sulphate  of  copper,  fa  ounce  corrosive  sub!; 
mate,  all  in  powder;    boil  over  a  slow  fir;; 
with  2i  ounces  vinegar  and  £  pound  honey 
until  of  a  proper  consistence.     Stir  up  well 
before  using. 

5005.  Egyptian  Ointment.     A  deter- 
gent application  for  foul  ulcers,  &c.     Mix  by 
heat  and  agitation,  10  parts  verdigris,  1  part 
calcined  ,alum,  14  parts  strong  vinegar,  and 
32  parts  thick  purified  honey. 

5006.  Compound  Gall  Ointment. 
Eub  together  6  drachms  very  finely  pow- 
dered gall-nuts,  li  drachms  powdered  opium, 
and  6  ounces  lard. 

5007.  German   Black    Salve.      Lard, 
24  parts ;  white  oxide  of  zinc  and  Peruvian 
balsam,   of  each  3  parts;  nitrate  of  silver, 
finely  pulverized,   1  part.    This  formula  is 
taken  from  the  Hamburg  Pharmacopoeia. 

5008.  To  Keep  Ointment  from  Be- 
coming Rancid.      About  2    per    cent,   of 
finely    powdered    gum    benzoin,    or    a   less 
quantity  of  benzoic    acid  dissolved    in  the 
fatty    matter    by  heat,   will  greatly  retard, 
if   not  wholly  prevent,   the   ointment  from 
turning  rancid. 

5009.  Schacht's  Glycerine  of  Starch, 
or  Plasma.     The  use  ol  fatty  matter  as  the 
vehicle  for  drugs  in  preparing  ointments  and 
cerates  is  sometimes  open  to  objection.     The 
remedies  introduced  are  frequently  insoluble 
in  fat,  which  consequently  acts  to  a  certain 
extent  in  defending  the  skin  from,  instead  of 
facilitating  the  perfect  action  of  the  remedy. 
Aqueous  remedies  are  difficult  to  mix  with 
fat  without  soap  or  some  otherwise  needless 
addition.     Another  strong  objection  is  the 
tendency  of  fatty  matter  to  become  rancid 
in  contact  with  the  skin.    Mr.  G.  F.  Schacht 
proposes   a  substitute   consisting  of  1   fluid 
ounce  pure   glycerine  and  70   grains   starch 
powder.     These  are  mixed  while  cold,  and 
then  gradually  heated  to  about  240°  Fahr., 
constantly  stirring ;  he  gives  this  preparation 
the  name  of  plasma.    This  constitutes  a  basis 
whose  consistence  is  good,  and  does  not  vary 
with  changes  of  temperature ;  it  is  soluble  in 
water,   and  may  consequently  be    removed 
from  tender  surfaces  with  the  greatest  ease ; 
it  dissolves  and  thoroughly  mingles  with  all 
materials  that  are  soluble  in  water,  and  there- 
fore presents  such  remedies  in  the  condition 
most  favorable  for  absorption ;  and,  lastly,  it 
is  not  liable  to  rancidity.    "With  plasma  sub- 
stituted for  fat,  may  be  produced  preparations 
corresponding  to  most  of  the  cerates  and  oint- 
ments of  the  Pharmacopoeia,  but  free  from 
the  special  objections  before  alluded  to.    The 
plasma  should  be  kept  in  a  closely  corked 
bottle.     The  following  plasmas  are  proposed 
by  Mr.  Schacht  as  improvements  on  the  corre- 
sponding ointments  of  the  Pharmacopoeia. 

5010.  Schacht's  C  antharides  Plasma. 
Evaporate  the  decoction  of  Spanish  flies  to  an 
extract,  and  mix  with  the  plasma,  using  the 
same  proportions  as  laid  down  for  cantharides 
ointment.     (See  No.  5017. ) 

5011.  Schacht's  Mercurial  Plasma. 
Mix  14  drachms  starch  with  6  fluid  ounces 


POULTICES. 


452 


glycerine,  gradually  adding  12  ounces  mercury, 
and  stirring  till  the  globules  disappear.  Then 
add  6  fluid  ounces  glycerine,  and  heat  to  240° 
Pahr.,  constantly  stirring. 

5012.  Schacht's  Glycerinated  Nitrate 
of  Mercury.     Take  1  drachm  terbasic  ni- 
trate of  mercury,  and  1  ounce  plasma. 

5013.  Schacht's  Glycerinated  Iodide 
of  Potassium.    Dissolve  2  drachms  iodide 
of  potassium  in  2  fluid  ounces    glycerine; 
add  140  grains  starch,  and  heat  to  240°  Fahr. 

5014.  Schacht's  Glycerinated  Petro- 
leum.    Rub  1   drachm  petroleum  with  70 
grains  starch  until  quite  smooth,  then  add 
gradually  1  fluid  ounce  glycerine. 

5015.  Glycerinated   Iodine.    This   is 
recommended  for  loss  of  voice,  and  is  com- 
posed of  16  grains  of  iodine  in  1  ounce  inodor- 
ous glycerine.     The  addition  of  starch  to  this 
is  not  advisable,  as  it  would  convert  the  iodine 
into  iodide  of  starch. 

5016.  Narcotic  Glycerole,  for  external 
use,  applied  on  lint.    Take  1  part  aqueous 
extract  of  opium,  4  parts  extract  of  bella- 
donna, and  60  parts  glycerine. 

5017.  Cantharides  Ointment.    Infuse 
for  12  hours  1  ounce  avoirdupois  of  canthar- 
ides  in  6  imperial  fluid  ounces  olive  oil  in  a 
covered  vessel.     Place  the  vessel  in  boiling 
water  for  15  minutes,  press  through  muslin, 
and  add  1  ounce  melted  yellow  wax,  stirring 
constantly  till  cool.    (Br.  Ph.) 


PO1lltiC6S.  External  applications, 
used  to  promote  suppuration,  allay  pain 
and  inflammation,  resolve  tumors,  &c.  They 
are  generally  prepared  with  substances  capa- 
ble of  absorbing  much  water,  and  assuming  a 
pulpy  consistence,  so  as  to  admit  of  their 
application  to  any  surface,  however  irregular. 
Their  curative  action  principally  depends  on 
the  liquids  with  which  they  are  moistened 
and  the  heat  retained  by  the  mass.  The  ad- 
dition of  a  little  lard,  olive  oil,  or,  still  better, 
glycerine,  to  a  poultice,  promotes  emollienl 
action  and  retards  hardening.  A  fold  or  two 
of  lint  dipped  in  hot  water,  either  simple  or 
medicated,  and  covered  with  a  thin  sheet  o: 
gutta-percha,  or  India-rubber  cloth,  to  prevenl 
evaporation,  may  often  be  conveniently  em- 
ployed instead  of  a  poultice.  Spongio-piline 
(see  No.  5039)  is  still  better  for  this  purpose 
than  lint.  The  following  are  the  principa 
poultices,  but  others  may  be  found  by  referring 
to  the  Index. 

5019.  Bread    Poultice.      Take    stale 
bread  in  pruinbs,  pour  boiling  water  over  it 
and  boil  till  soft,  stirring  it  well ;  then  take  ii 
from  the  fire,  and  gradually  stir  in  a  little 
glycerine  or  sweet  oil,  so  as  to  render  the 
poultice  pliable  when  applied. 

5020.  Slippery  Elm  Poultice.     Take 
a  sufficient   quantity   of  pulverized  slippery 
elm  bark ;  stir  it  in  hot  or  warm  milk  anc 
water,  to  the  consistence  of  a  poultice.    This 
is  a  most  efficacious  poultice;   is  of  almost 
universal  application,  and  removes  inflamma 
tion  sooner  than  any  other.     If  tincture  o 
myrrh  be  added,  it  is  valuable  in  boils,  ulcers 
carbuncles,  &c. 


5021.  Mustard  Poultice.     Take  equal 
>arts  of  ground  mustard  and  ground  flax-seed, 
ind    mix    them    thoroughly    together,   with 
>arely  enough  of  water  to  make  them  of  the 
hickness    of  common    paste.      To    prevent 

sticking,  a  little  glycerine  or  sweet  oil  is  to 
)e  added.  The  addition  of  bread  crumbs 
serves  to  diminish,  that  of  a  little  vinegar  to 
ncrease  the  irritating  power  of  the  mustard. 

5022.  Strong  Mustard  Poultice.    Mix 
the  best  English  ground  mustard  with  strong 
vinegar;    spread  it  on  a  piece   of  book  or 
tarleton  muslin,  to  prevent  its  adhesion  to  the 
skin.    Wet  the  part  first  with  vinegar,  and 
apply  the  poultice. 

5023.  Linseed  Poultice.     Take  of  lin- 
seefi,  powdered,  4  ounces ;  hot  water,  &  pint. 
Gradually  sprinkle  the  powder  into,  and  stir 
well  with  a  spoon.    This  is  good  and  conve- 
nient for  many  cases.    It  is  preferable  to  the 
bread  and  milk  poultice  so  much  in  use,  as  it 
is  not  so  liable  to  become  brittle  and  hard 
when  dry.    It  is  very  useful  in  carbuncle, 
obstinate  inflammation,  &c. 

5024.  Carrot  Poultice.     Take  of  boiled 
carrots,  bruised,  1  pound;  flour,  1  ounce;  liut- 
ter,    i  ounce.    Mix  them  with  a    sufficient 
quantity  of  hot  water  to  form  a  pulp.     This 
will  be  found  a  valuable  application  in  ulcera- 
ted sores  and  swellings,  scrofulous  sores  of  an 
irritable  kind,  and  many  other  inveterate  ul- 
cers. 

5025.  Poultice  for  Sprains  and  Bruis- 
es.    Carbonate  ammonia,  2  ounces ;  vinegar, 
2  pints ;  proof  spirits,  3  pints.    Mix  the  am- 
monia and  vinegar;  when  the  effervescence 
ceases,  add  the  spirit.    For  inflammation  of 
the  joints,  of  some  standing,  mix  with  ani- 
seed meal,  and  use  as  a  poultice  twice  a  day. 
It  is  also  valuable  for  sprains,  bruises,  and 
other  injuries. 

5026.  Charcoal  Poultice.   Linseed  meal, 
\  pound ;  charcoal  powder,  2  ounces ;  hot  wa- 
ter, sufficient  to  give  it  the  necessary  consist- 
ence.    Or:   Soak  2  ounces  bread  in   i  pint 
boiling  water;   add  to  this,  by  degrees,  10 
drachms   linseed   meal;    and,   afterwards,  2 
drachms  powdered  fresh  charcoal ;  then  sprin- 
kle 1  drachm  powdered  charcoal  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  poultice.     This  poultice  is  highly 
antiseptic ;  that  is  to  say,  it  has  great  power 
in  cleansing  ulcers  and  correcting  a  tendency 
to  mortification.    The  power  is  derived  from 
the  charcoal,  which  is  remarkable  for  its  puri- 
fying energy.     It  should  be  frequently  re- 
newed.   Dr.  Bird,  in  his  work  on  the  medical 
uses  of  charcoal,  gives  numerous  proofs  of  the 
efficacy  of  this  application.    Besides  purify- 
ing and  healing,  it  conteracts  the  offensive 
smell  arising  from  putrid  sores. 

5027.  Yeast  Poultice.     Take  of  milk, 
blood- warm,   1   pint;  'yeast,  1   gill.     Stir  in 
fine   slippery   elm  bark,  to  form  a  poultice. 
This  is  a  good  antiseptic  and  refrigerant  poul- 
tice.     Applied  to   gangrenous   ulcers,   it    is 
more  efficacious  than  any  others;  it  sooner 
arrests  mortification,  used  with  proper  auxili- 
aries.    It  is   also   very   serviceable  in  other 
species  of  inflammation. 

5028.  Indian  Turnip  Poultice.     Take 
of  the  tops  and   roots   of  Indian   turnip,  if 
green;  if  dry,  the  roots  only;  simmer  in  wa- 
ter, and  add  slippery  elm  bark  sufficient  to 
form  a  poultice.     This  poultice  is  used  in  the 


PLASTERS. 


453 


treatment  of  scrofula  with  the  best  effect.  It 
is  superior  to  every  other  poultice  in  scrofula, 
in  a  state  of  swelling  and  inflammation. 

5029.  Potato  Poultice.     Boil  the  com- 
mon potato,  mash  or  bruise  soft,  and  then  stir 
in  finely  pulverized  slippery  elm  bark.     This 
poultice  has  been  used  with  success  in  oph- 
thalmia (inflammation  of  the  eyes)  of  an  acute 
character,  when  other  means  have  failed. 

5030.  Goulard's  Poultice.     It  is  thus 
made:      Take   Ik  drachms    extract  of   lead 
(solution  of  acetate  of  lead) ;  rectified  spirit 
of  wine,  2  ounces ;  water,  12  ounces ;  bread- 
crumb, sufficient  to  make  the  whole  into  a 
proper  consistence.     This  poultice  is  an  excel- 
lent application  to  reduce  swelling  and  inflam- 
mation, and  to  allay  irritation. 

5031.  Lobelia  Poultice.     Linseed  meal, 
i  ounce ;   slippery   elm,  1   ounce ;  powdered 
lobelia,  li  ounces;  ginger,  1  ounce;  whiskey 
sufficient  to  make  it.     Good  for  all  inflamed 
parts,  as  the  side  in  pleurisy,  liver  complaints, 
rheumatism,  lumbago. 

5032.  Poultice  for  a  Fester.      Boil 
bread  in  lees  of  strong  beer ;  apply  the  poul- 
tice in  the  general  manner.     This  has  saved 
many  a  limb  from  amputation. 

5033.  Alum  Poultice.     Take  of  alum, 
in   fine   powder,  1  drachm  avoirdupois,   and 
the  white  of  2  eggs ;    shake  them  together 
until  they  coagulate.     Formerly  much  used 
in    broken    chilblains,    chaps,   sore    nipples, 
chronic  inflammation  of  the  eyes,  .<fcc.,  ap- 
plied on  linen,  and  covered  with  a  piece  of 
fine  muslin. 

5034.  Hemlock    Poultice.       Make    a 
poultice  of  4^  ounces   linseed  meal  in  \  pint 
boiling  water ;    spread  on  its  surface  1  ounce 
extract  of  hemlock  softened  with  a  little  hot 
water.     This  is  an  anodyne  application  for 
irritable   and  painful    cancerous,   scrofulous, 
and  syphilitic  sores,  tumors,  &c. 

5035.  Gout    Poultice.       Dissolve     6 
drachms  balm  of  Mecca  in  16  ounces  rectified 
spirit ;  next  digest  for  48  hours,  1  ounce  each 
of  red  cinchona  bark,  sarsaparilla,  and  sage, 
and   i  ounce  saffron,  in  32  ounces  rectified 
spirits ;  filter  this,  mix  it  with  the  solution  of 
balm  of  Mecca,  and  add  twice  their  weight  of 
lime-water.     Sprinkle  2  fluid  ounces  on  the 
surface  of  a  hot  linseed  meal  poultice,   large 
enough  to  surround  the  affected  part. 

5036.  Soap  Poultice.    Dissolve  1  ounce 
scraped  or  sliced  white  soap  in  j  pint  boiling 
water,  and  mix  with  sufficient  bread  to  make 
a    poultice.     This    is    good  for    scalds    and 
burns. 

5037.  Vinegar  Poultice.     Soak  bread 
in  vinegar  and  apply  cold;  for  bruises,   ex- 
travasations, black-eyes,  &c. 

5038.  Chlorinated     Poultice.       Mix 
gradually  4£  ounces  linseed  meal  with  G  fluid 
ounces  boiling  water ;  add  2  fluid  ounces  of  a 
solution  of  chlorinated  soda  (chloride  of  so- 
dium), applied  to  foul  ulcers,  &c. 

5039.  Spongio-piline.      This    is    the 
name  of  a  very  ingenious  contrivance,  recent- 
ly introduced   abroad,   which  may  bo  used 
either  as  a  poultice  or  as  a  means  of  fomenta- 
tion.    It  consists  of  wool  and  small  particles 
of  sponge,   apparently  felted    together,  and 
attached   to    a  skin  of  India-rubber.    It  is 
about  half  an  inch  in  thickness.     It  will  be 
found  of  great  value    and  convenience  for 


either  of  the  purposes  referred  to.  It  retains 
heat  for  a  considerable  time,  and  vinegar, 
laudanum,  camphor,  hartshorn,  etc.,  can  be, 
by  its  means,  placed  on  the  skin,  accompani- 
ed by  heat  and  moisture,  much  more  readily, 
and  with  greater  cleanliness,  than  by  means 
of  ordinary  poultices. 


Pl&SterS.  External  applications  that 
possess  sufficient  consistence  not  to 
adhere  to  the  fingers  when  cold,  but  which 
become  soft  and  adhesive  at  the  temperature 
of  the  human  body.  Plasters  are  chiefly 
composed  of  unctuous  substances  united  to 
metallic  oxides,  or  to  powders,  wax,  or  resin. 
They  are  usually  formed  whilst  warm,  into  -J- 
pound  rolls  about  8  or  9  inches  long,  and 
wrapped  in  paper.  "When  required  for  use,  a 
little  is  melted  off  the  roll  by  means  of  a 
heated  iron  spatula,  and  spread  upon  leather, 
linen,  or  silk.  The  less  adhesive  plasters, 
when  spread,  are  usually  surrounded  with  a 
margin  of  resin  plaster,  to  cause  them  to 
adhere.  In  the  preparation  of  plasters,  the 
heat  of  a  water-bath,  or  steam,  should  be 
alone  employed. 

5041.  To  Spread  Plasters.     In  spread- 
ing plasters  convenience  requires  and  neat- 
ness demands  an  uncoated  marginal  edge. 
This  is  usually  secured  by  pasting  strips  of 
paper  along  the  edges  of  the  skin  or  other 
material  used,  and  removing  them  after  the 
spreading  of  the   plaster  is   affected.     It  is 
just  here  that  a  practical  difficulty  frequently 
arises.     The  paper  edges  are  liable,  from  dry- 
ing of  the  paste,  to  adhere  so  strongly  that 
either  paper  or  skin  will  give  way  upon  an 
attempt  at  their  removal ;  the  application  of 
water  will  then  be  necessary  to  soften  the 
attachment,  and  the  final  results  may  be  ex- 
pected to  present  a  daubed  and  uncleanly 
aspect.     This     difficulty    may    be     entirely 
avoided   by  applying  to   the  paste  brush  a 
little  glycerine  before  the  adjustment  of  the 
marginal  strips.     (Ebert). 

5042.  To   Prevent    Plasters    from 
Adhering  to  Paper.     It  is  recommended 
to  dust  the  latter  over  with  powdered  Trench 
chalk.      If  a  piece  of  thin  paper,  moistened 
with  olive  oil  and  then  wiped  dry,  be  laid 
over  a  plaster,  it  will  prevent  adhesion  to  the 
wrapping  paper. 

5043.  Litharge,  Lead,  or  Diachylon 
Plaster.     Take  5  pounds  litharge  in  very 
fine  powder,  1  gallon  olive  oil,  and  1  quart 
water.    Or :  5  ounces  litharge,  12  fluid  ounces 
olive  oil,  and  8  fluid  ounces  water.      Unless 
the  oil  is  fully  2J-  times  the  weight  of  the 
litharge,  the  plaster  soon  gets  hard  and  non- 
adhesive.     Put  the  water  and  litharge  into  a 
perfectly  clean  and  well  polished  tinned  cop- 
per or  copper  pan,  mix  them  together  with  a 
spatula,   add  the  oil,  and  boil,  stirring  con- 
stantly until  the  plaster  is  sufficiently  hard 
when  thoroughly  cold.      This  process  usually 
occupies  from  4  to  5  hours.     The  operation 
may  be  completed  in  from  20  to  30  minutes 
by  adding  to  the  litharge  and  water  £  pint 
colorless  vinegar,  for  each  pouud  of  litharge 
employed,  previous  to  adding  the  oil. 

5044.  Mahy's  White  Lead  Plaster. 
Boil  together  1  pound  pure  carbonate  of  lead, 


PLASTEP.S. 


32  fluid  ounces  olive  oil,  and  sufficient  -water, 
constantly  stirring  until  perfectly  incorpora- 
ted ;  then  add  4  ounces  yellow  wax,  and  1| 
pounds  lead  plaster;  when  these  are  melted, 
and  the  mass  somewhat  cooled,  stir  in  9 
ounces  powdered  orris  root.  This  is  an  appli- 
cation much  used  for  inflamed  and  excoriated 
surfaces,  bed-sores,  burns,  &c. 

5045.  Deschamp's  Plaster.    Fasten  a 
piece  of  fine  muslin,  linen,  or  silk,  to  a  flat 
board ;    give    it    a  thin  coating  of  smooth, 
strained  flour  paste.    "When  dry,  apply  2  coats 
of   colorless    gelatine,   made  into   size  with 
warm  water.     This  is  said  to  be  superior  to 
the  ordinary  court  plaster. 

5046.  Adhesive  Resin  Plaster.    Eesin 
plaster,  spread  upon  muslin,  forms  the  well- 
known  Strapping  or  adhesive  plaster,  so  ex- 
tensively used  for   protecting  raw  surfaces, 
supporting   parts,  dressing  ulcers,  retaining 
the  lips  of  recent  cuts  and  wounds  in  contact, 
&c.    It  is  gently  stimulant,  and  is  thought  to 
assist  the  healing  process ;  it  is  also  employed 
as  a  basis  for  other  plasters.     Mix  by  a  mod- 
erate heat,    1    ounce    resin  with    5    ounces 
litharge  plaster.  (566^0.5043.)  Or:  4  ounces 
resin,   and  2  ounces  powdered  castile  soap, 
with  2  pounds  litharge  plaster. 

5047.  Cancer    Plaster.      "White    oak- 
bark,  4  ounces ;  bruise  it  well,  and  add  urine 
sufficient  to  cover  it.      Infuse  four  days,  boil 
it  till  it  becomes  as  thick  as  molasses.    Add 
2  ounces  honey  and  2  ounces    strained  tur- 
pentine gum.     To  make  this  plaster  caustic, 
add  2  drachms  white  vitriol.     Spread  on  soft 
leather  or  linen.      It  may  be  applied  to  all 
kinds  of  ulcers  and  white  swellings.    For  can- 
cers it  is  invaluable. 

5048.  Anodyne    Plaster.      Melt    an 
ounce  of  adhesive  plaster,  or  diachylon  (see 
No.  5043),  and,  whilst  cooling,  add  a  drachm 
of  powdered  opium,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
camphor,  previously    dissolved    in   a    small 
quantity    of  olive   oil.      Spread    on  leather. 
This  soon  relieves  an  acute  local  pain.     Or: 
Powdered  opium,  \  ounce ;  resin  of  the  spruce 
fir,  powdered,  3  ounces ;  lead  plaster,  1  pound. 
Melt  the  plaster  and  resin  together,  then  add 
the  opium  and  mix  the  whole.     Useful  for 
rheumatic  pains. 

5049.  Strengthening   Plaster.     Lith- 
arge plaster,  24  parts;  white  resin,  6  parts;  yel- 
low wax  and  olive  oil,  of  each  3  parts ;  red 
oxide  of  iron,  8  parts.      Let  the  oxide  be  rub- 
bed with  the  oil,  the  other  ingredients  added, 
melted,  and  mix  the  whole  well  together. 
This  is  an  excellent  plaster  for  relaxation  of 
the  muscles  and  weakness  of  the  joints  arising 
from  sprains  and  bruises.    The  plaster  spread 
over  leather  should  be  cut  into  strips  2  inches 
wide,  and  strapped  firmly  round  the  joints, 

5050.  Cough  Plaster.     Castile  soap,  1 
ounce ;  lead  plaster,  2  drachms ;  sal-ammoniac, 
1  drachm.     Melt  the  soap  and  lead  plaster  to- 
gether, and  add  the  ammoniac  when  the  mi  x- 
ture  is  nearly  cold.    This  plaster  must  be 
applied  to  the  chest  immediately  after  it  is 
spread,  and  must  be  renewed  every  24  hours. 
It  is  often  of  great  service  in  whooping-cough 
and  coughs  of  an  asthmatic  character. 

5051.  Resolvent    Plaster.      Purified 
ammoniac,   1   pound;    purified    mercury,    3 
ounces;  sulphuretted  oil,  1  fluid  drachm.     The 
mercury  must  be  rubbed  with  the  sulphuret- 


ted oil  till  the  globules  disappear,  and  the 
ammoniac,  previously  melted,  added  gradually, 
and  the  whole  mixed  together.  This  plaster 
has  great  efficacy  in  promoting  the  absorption 
of  glandular  swellings  and  indolent  tumors. 
It  is  of  much  use  also  as  an  application  to 
corns  and  bunions.  It  can  be  obtained  from 
the  apothecary,  and  is  usually  known  as  the 
plaster  of  ammoniac  and  mercury. 

5052.  Burgundy  Pitch  Plaster.    Melt 
together  2   pounds  strained  burgundy  pitch, 
1  pound  prepared  frankincense,  and  4  ounces 
each  yellow  resin  and  bees'-wax  :  add  2  fluid 
ounces  each  olive  oil  and  water,  and  1  ounce 
expressed  oil  of  nutmeg;  stir  constantly  until 
eAraporated  to  a  proper  consistence. 

5053.  Blister  or  Cantharides  Plas- 
ter.    Molt  together  7*  ounces   each  yellow 
wax  and  suet ;  6  ounces  lard,  and  3  ounces 
resin;  when  mixed,  remove  from  the  fire,  and, 
a  little  before  they  concrete,  sprinkle  in  and 
mix  thoroughly  1   pound  very  finely  pow- 
dered cantharides. 

5054.  Strong  Blistering,  or  Canthari- 
des Plaster.      Mix  at  a  heat  below  212° 
Fahr.,  4£  ounces  Venice  turpentine,   3  ounces 
each  of  burgundy  pitch   and   cantharides,    1 
ounce   bees'-wax,   4  ounce    finely  powdered 
verdigris,  and  2  drachms  each  of  powdered 
mustard  and  black  pepper. 

5055.  Warm  Plaster.     For  this  plas- 
ter, take  1  part  of  blistering  plaster,  and  of 
burgundy  pitch  14  parts  ;  mix  them  by  means 
of  a  moderate  heat.     This  plaster  is   stimu- 
lant, slightly  irritating  the  skin,  and  is  of  use 
in    ordinary   coughs    and    whooping-cough, 
sciatica,  and  other  local  pains.  * 

5056.  Homoeopathic  Mustard  Plas- 
ter.     For  chronic  inflammation,  colds,  sore 
throats,  inflammations  of  the  lungs,  liver,  and 
bowels,  sprains,  &c.     Take  1  part  by  measure 
of  mustard ;  5  parts  flour ;  and  5  of  Indian 
meal.    Mix  the  mustard  in  a  little  hot  water, 
and,  when  smooth,  add  about  2  parts  boiling 
water,  and  when  all  is  dissolved  stir  in  the 
flour,  and  then  the  meal,  thoroughly ;  adding 
more  boiling  water  if  necessary.     Spread  on  a 
thick  cloth  double  folded,  to  retain  heat  and 
moisture.     Cover  with  mosquito   netting,  or 
lace,   and    nothing    closer,   sew  around    the 
edges,  apply  to  the  painful  spot ;  fasten  with 
bandages,  and  wear  till  dry,  or  for  24  hours, 
and  then  put  on  a  fresh  one.     Continue  to 
renew  these  for  1  or  2  weeks.   When  the  skin 
becomes  too  tender,  add  1  more  spoonful  of 
flour  and  meal   each.     "When  these  plasters 
can  no  longer  be  borne,  use  powdered  ginger 
instead  of  mustard,  and  then  finish  with  plain 
Indian  meal  poultice  alone.     (Leggctt.) 

5057.  The    Best    Mustard    Plaster. 
Take  a  piece  of  waste  linen,  and,  if  crumpled, 
iron  it  smooth ;  or  paper  will  do.     Procure  a 
small  quantity  of  black   mustard   seed,  and 
bruise  it  to  a  coarse  powder,  in  a  pestle  and 
mortar  or  otherwise.     Spread  over  the  linen  a 
thin  solution  of  gum,  and  sprinkle  the  powder 
equally  over  it.     Dry  in  a  warm  place.   "When 
wanted,  plasters  may  be  cut  of  any  size  or 
shape ;  and  when  applied  should  be  momen- 
tarily dipped  in  tepid  water,  and  tied  over  the 
affected  part  with  a  bandage.     These  plasters 
are  more  simple,  cleanly,  and  effective  than 
the  ordinary  mustard  poultices.      This  pre- 
paration may    be  had  at    the  drug   stores, 


GARGLES. 


455 


made  in  3  different  strengths,  No.   1  being 
the  most  powerful. 

5058.  Court   Plaster.      This    plaster 
is  merely  a  kind  of  varnished  silk,  and  its 
manufacture  is  very  easy.     Bruise  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  isinglass,  and  let  it  soak  in  a  little 
warm  water  for  24  hours ;  expose  it  to  heat 
over  the  fire  till  the  greater  part  of  the  water 
is  dissipated,  and  supply  its  place  by  proof 
spirits  of  wine,  which  will  combine  with  the 
isinglass.     Strain  the  whole  through  a  piece 
of  open  linen,  taking  care  that  the  consistence 
of  the  mixture  shall  be  such  that,  when  cool, 
it  may  form   a  trembling  jelly.     Extend  a 
piece    of  black  or    flesh-colored  silk    on    a 
wooden  frame,  and  fix  it  in  that  position  by 
means  of  tacks  or  twine.    Then  apply  the 
isinglass  (after  it  has  been  rendered  liquid  by 
a  gentle  heat)  to  the  silk  with  a  brush  of  fine 
hair  (badgers'  is  the  best).     As  soon  as  this 
first  coating  is  dried,  which  will  not  be  long, 
apply  a  second;  and  afterwards,  if  the  article 
is  to  be  very  superior,  a  third.     When  the 
whole  is  dry,  cover  it  with  two  or  three  coat- 
ings of  the  balsam  of  Peru.      This  is  the 
genuine    court    plaster.      It  is   pliable,   and 
never  breaks,  which  is  far  from  being  the  case 
with  spurious  articles  sold  under  that  name. 

5059.  De  Rheims'  Healing   Paper. 
Make  a  strong  tincture  of  capsicum-pods  by 
steeping  them  for  several  days,  in  a  warm 
place,  in  twice  their  weight  of  rectified  spirits 
of  wine.     Dissolve  gum-arabic  in  water  to 
about  the  consistency  of  molasses.    Add  to 
this  an  equal  quantity  of  the  tincture,  stirring 
it  together  with  a  small  brush  or  a  large 
camei's-hair  pencil,  until  they  are  well  incor- 
porated.    The  mixture  will  be  cloudy  and 
opaque.     Take  sheets  of  silk  or  tissue-paper; 
give  them  with  the  brush  a  coat  of  the  mix- 
ture; let  them  dry,  and  then  give  another; 
let  that  dry,  and,  if  the  surface   is  shining, 
there  is    enough    of   the    peppered  gum ;  if 
not,   give  a  third  coat.     This  paper,  applied 
in  the  same  way  as  court  plaster  to  chil- 
blains that  are  not  broken,  and  burns  that 
are  not  blistered,  speedily  relieves  the  itching 
and  the  pain.      It  acts  like  a  charm,   and 
effects  a  rapid  cure.     The  same  with  cuts  and 
discolored  bruises.    It  likewise  allays  rheu- 
matic pains  in  the  joints.     Its  great  value  is 
that,  besides  acting  as  ordinary  sticking-plas- 
ter, it  abates  suffering  and  hastens  the  process 
of  healing. 

5060.  Cooley's    Corn    Plaster.     In    a 
piece  of  card,  cut  a  round  hole  the  size  of  the 
central  portion  of  the  corn ;  lay  the  card  on  a 
piece  of  adhesive  plaster,  and  warm  the  spot 
of  plaster  exposed  by  the  hole  in  the  card,  by 
holding  a  hot  iron  near  it  for  a  second  or 
two;  then  remove  the  card  and  sprinkle  some 
finely  powdered  nitrate  of  silver  on  the  warm 
spot  of  the  plaster.    "When  cold,  shake  off  the 
loose  powder,  and  apply  to  the  corn.     Two 
or  three  applications  seldom  fail  to  cure. 

5061.  Carbolic  Plaster.     Carbolic  gly- 
cerine,  34  parts  by  weight ;  prepared  chalk, 
94  parts.     Mix  well  by  kneading,  and  enclose 
in  closely-stoppered  jars. 

5062.  Irritating    Plaster.      Boil    to- 
gether 1  pound  tar,  J  ounce  burgundy  pitch, 
1  ounce  white  pine  turpentine,  and  2  ounces 
resin.      Finely    powder   1  ounce  each   man- 
drake root,  blood  root,  poke  root,  and  Indian 


turnip.  Stir  these  into  the  melted  tar,  &c., 
before  it  cools.  This  plaster,  spread  on  mus- 
lin and  renewed  daily,  will  raise  a  sore,  which 
is  to  be  wiped  with  a  dry  cloth,  to  remove 
matter,  <fec.  The  sore  must  not  be  wetted. 
This  is  a  powerful  counter-irritant,  for  re- 
moving internal  pains,  and  in  other  cases 
where  an  irritating  plaster  is  necessary. 


&I*gleS  are  simple  remedies  well 
adapted  to  domestic  practice  in  sore 
throats  of  various  kinds.  According  to  the 
nature  of  the  ingredients  of  which  they  are 
made,  they  allay  irritation  and  inflammation, 
invigorate  the  membrane  lining  the  mouth 
and  throat,  and  promote  suppuration.  The 
particular  purpose  for  which  they  are  required 
ought  to  l)e  kept  in  view  in  their  preparation. 

5064.  Potassa     Gargle     for     Sore 
Throat.     Strong  sage  tea,  1  pint ;  strained 
honey,  2  table-spoonfuls ;  chlorate  of  potassa, 
1  tea-spoonful ;  mix  and  use  as  often  as  ne- 
cessary, being  careful  to  shake  before  using. 
Also  poultice  the  throat  with  hops  and  warm 
vinegar.    Brewers'  yeast  substituted  for  the 
chlorate  of  potassa  makes  a  very  effectual 
gargle. 

5065.  Gargle  for  Sore  Throat.     Yery 
strong  sage  tea,  k  pint ;  strained  honey,  com- 
mon salt,  and  strong  vinegar,  of  each  2  table- 
spoonfuls  ;  cayenne  (pulverized),  1  rounding 
tea-spoonful ;  steeping  the  cayenne  with  the 
sage,  strain,  mix,  and  bottle  for  use,  gargling 
from  four  to  a  dozen  times  daily,  according  to 
the  severity  of  the  case. 

5066.  Carbolic  Acid  Gargle.    Used  as 
a  gargle  for  sore  throat,  attended  with  foul 
breath.  Take  2  grains  of  the  crystals  to  1  ounce 
of  water. 

5067.  Gargle  for  Ulcerated  Sore 
Throat.  Water,  ^  pint;  decoction  of  Peru- 
vian bark,  £  pint :  sulphate  of  zinc,  1  drachm. 
Mix. 

5068.  Gargle  for  Inflammation  of  the 
Throat.   Purified  nitre,  2  drachms;  barley 
water,  7  ounces ;  acetate  of  honey,  7  drachms ; 
mix  the  ingredients.     To  be  used  frequently. 

5069.  Gargle  for  General  Domestic 
TJse  in  Sore  Throat.  Take  3  tea-spoonfuls 
vinegar,  2  tea-spoonfuls  tincture  of  myrrh,  2 
of  honey,  a  glass  of  port  wine,  and  3  or  4  wine- 
glasses of  warm  water;  mix  all  these  ingredi- 
ents, and  the  gargle  is  ready  for  use.    A  de- 
coction of  the  leaves  of  the  black  currant 
may,  with  good  effect,  be  added  instead  of 
the  warm  water.     This  makes  both  a  pleasant 
and  most  useful  gargle. 

5070.  Mucilaginous  Gargle  for  In- 
flamed Throat.  Tincture  of  myrrh,  3 
drachin:; ;  mucilage  of  gum-arabic,  7  ounces. 
Mix.  This  gargle  is  of  use  in  defending  the 
parts  when  the  saliva  is  of  an  acrid  character. 

5071.  Gargle  for  Threatened  Mortifi- 
cation of  the  Throat.     Tincture  of  capsi- 
cum, 6  drachms ;  honey  of  roses,  3  drachms ; 
infusion  of  roses,  A  pint.     Mix.    Or  :  Tincture 
of  capsicum,  G  drachms ;  infusion  of  Peruvian 
bark,  5  ounces  ;  port  wine,  3  ounces.     Mix. 

5072.  Gargle  to  Promote  Suppura- 
tion.    Barley  water  and  infusion  of  linseed. 
This  gargle  is  to  be  used  warm.    It  must  be 


4,56 


CAUSTICS— EUBE  FA  CIE  NTS  —  BALSAMS. 


kept  in  view  that  this  mild  gargle  acts  by 
softening  the  parts  of  the  throat,  and  hasten- 
ing the  suppuration  by  its  heat;  and  it  is 
requisite,  therefore,  that  the  temperature  of 
the  gargle  be  kept  up. 

5073.  Carbolized  Gargle  for  Diphthe- 
ria, Tonsilitis,  &c.  Carbolic  acid,  '20  min- 
ims ;  acetic  acid,  £  drachm;  honey,  2  fluid 
ounces ;  tincture  of  myrrh,  2  fluid  drachms ; 
water,  6  fluid  ounces.  The  carbolic  and  acetic 
acids  to  be  well  shaken  together  before  the 
other  ingredients  are  added.  (Charles  Sedg- 


Subtances  that  corrode 
or  destroy  the  texture  of  the  skin  and 
organized  bodies.  Their  action  is  commonly 
called  burning.  The  principal  caustics  em- 
ployed by  surgeons  are  nitrate  of  silver, 
caustic  potassa,  sulphate  of  copper,  red  oxide 
of  mercury,  and  the  nitric  and  acetic  acids. 

5075.  Vegetable  Caustic.     Burn  oak 
or  beech  wood  to  ashes.    Make  a  lye  from 
them,  and  simmer  it  till  it  becomes  rather 
thicker  than  cream ;  the  evaporation  may  be 
continued  in  the  sun.    Spread  on  leather  when 
used.    It  is  valuable  in  cancers,  fistulas,  scrof- 
ulous and  indolent  ulcers,  where  there  is  proud 
flesh. 

5076.  Medicated  Lint.     Dissolve  20  to 
30  grains  nitrate  of  silver  in  1  fluid  ounce  dis- 
tilled water ;  saturate  \  ounce  of  dry  lint  with 
the  solution,  and  expose  it  in  a  saucer  to  the 
light  and  air  until  it  becomes  black  and  dry. 

5077.  Iodine  Paint;  Iodine  Caustic. 
Take  of  iodide  of  potassium,  \  ounce  avoirdu- 
pois; iodine,  J  ounce;  proof- spirit,  3  ounces; 
dissolve  by  agitation.      Used  as  a  paint  in 
cases  in  which  it  is  desired  to  apply  iodine,  in 
a  strong  form,  locally ;  also  as  a  caustic  for 
corns,  warts,  «fec.     (Soubeiran.)     The  tincture 
of  iodine  of  the  Pharmacopoeia  is,  however, 
more  generally  employed  ;  but  it  is  only  of 
about  one-third  the  strength  of  the  above. 

5078.  To  Prevent  Iodine  from  Stain- 
ing.    By  adding  a  few  drops  of  liquid  carbolic 
acid  to  the  iodine  tincture,  the  latter  will  not 
stain.     According  to  Dr.  Bogs,  of  the  Indian 
Service,  carbolic  acid  also  renders  the  efficacy 
of  tincture  of  iodine  more  certain.     He  re- 
commends the  following  formula,  whenever 
injections  of  the  latter  are  indicated:   Alco- 
holic tincture  of  iodine,  45  drops  ;  pure  liquid 
carbolic  acid,  6  drops ;   glycerine,  1  ounce ; 
distilled   water,   5  ounces.     In   blennorrhoea 
and  leucorrhoea,  this  mixture  is  said  to  be  su- 
perior to  tar-water. 

5079.  Caustic  for    Corns.      Take  oi 
liquid  terehloride  of  antimony  and  tincture  oJ 
iodine,  of  each  2  drachms  avoirdupois ;  prot- 
iodide  of  iron,  7  grains ;  mix,  and  preserve  it 
in  a  well-stoppered  phial.     Applied,  with  care. 
Two  to  four  applications  are  said  to  effect  a 
cure. 

5080.  Convenient   Vehicle    for  the 
Application  of  Nitrate  of  Silver.     At 
University  College   Hospital  (London)  they 
have  adopted  the  plan  of  dissolving  nitrate 
of  silver  in  nitrous  ether;   it  can  then  be 
spread  with  a  camel's-hair  brush  over  a  sur- 
face, and  the  ether  immediately  evaporates. 


RTlbefacientS.  Substances  or 
agents,  which,  when  applied  for  a  cer- 
tain time  to  the  skin,  occasion  a  redness  and 
ncrease  of  heat  without  blistering.  They 
act  as  counter-irritants.  Mustard  or  pow- 
dered ginger,  made  into  a  paste  with  water, 
lartshorn  and  oil,  and  ether  or  alcohol  (when 
,heir  evaporation  is  prevented),  are  among 
,his  class  of  remedies. 

5082.  Counter-irritants.      Substances 
applied  to  the  surface  of  the  body  to  establish 
a  secondary  morbid  action,  with  the  view  of 
relieving  one  already  existing.     Those  best 
mown  are  blisters,  mustard  poultices,  harts- 
lom  aud  oil,  and  liniment  of  ammonia. 

5083.  Blistering  Tissue.     These  blis- 
tering compositions  are  superior  to  the  com- 
mon cantharides  blisters,  from  their  greater 

leanliness,  efficiency,  and  case  of  application, 
and  their  being  less  liable  to  produce  excess- 
ive irritation. 

5084.  Strong  Blistering  Tissue. 
Powdered  cantharides  is  exhausted  with  sul- 
phuric ether  by  percolation  (see  No.  41),  and 
;ho  resulting  tincture  reduced  to  the  consist- 
:nce  of  molasses  by  distillation ;  the  extract 
is  then  mixed  with  twice  its  weight  of  yellow 
wax,  melted  by  a  very  gentle  heat,  and  spread 
on  waxed  cloth. 

5085.  Blistering    Tissue.      Digest    3 
drachms  powdered   cautharides  in    1   ounce 

ther  for  a  day  or  two;  decant  and  add  4 
drachms  sandarach,  2  drachms  mastic,  -J- 
drachm  turpentine,  and  10  or  12  drops  oil  of 
lavender ;  mix  and  spread  as  above. 

5086.  Blistering  Tissue.     Mix  2.  parts 
acetic    extract    of   cantharides,   and   1    part 
each  of  resin  cerate  and  bees'-wax;  use  as 
before. 

5087.  Blistering  Plaster.      Infuse    3 
drachms  powdered  cantharides  in    4  ounces 
acetic  ether  for  8  days ;  decant  and  evaporate 
as  in  'No.  C084;  then  add  4  drachms  resin, 
and  spread  on  court  plaster.    • 

5088.  Management  of  Blisters. 
Spread  the  plaster  thinly  on  paper,  or  linen, 
and  rub  over  it  a  few  drops  of  olive  oil.  In 
this  way  the  blister  acts  speedily,  and  with 
less  irritation  than  usual. 

5089.  To  Camphorate  Blisters.  M. 
Deschamps  d'Avallon  has  suggested,  when  it 
is  desirable  to  camphorate  a  blister,  it  may  be 
readily  accomplished  by  dropping  on  its  sur- 
face a  few  drops  of  a  saturated  solution  of 
camphor  in  chloroform,  made  by  adding 
2  parts  of  the  latter  to  4  of  the  former. 


B2llS8lHlS.  Balsams  are  semi-liquid 
resinous  substances,  having  for  the 
most  part  the  consistence  of  honey.  Some, 
however,  are  solid,  and  the  greater  number 
harden  by  exposure  to  the  air  and  age.  They 
are  generally  aromatic,  soluble  iu  alcohol, 
partly  soluble  in  ether,  and  not  at  all  so  in 
water.  Their  usual  constituents  are  resin 
and  benzoic  acid,  mixed  with  a  large  portion 
of  aromatic  essential  oil.  Some  of  the  sub- 
stances falsely  called  balsams  contain  no  ben- 
zoic acid,  as  the  balsam  of  copaiba,  &c. ;  and 
many  preparations,  from  the  presumption 
that  they  possess  balsamic  qualities,  have  also 
received  this  name. 


BALSAMS. 


4:57 


5001.  Friar's  Balsam,  or  Jesuit's 
Drops.  Take  gum  benzoin,  6  ounces; 
straiued  storax,  2  ounces;  pulverized  aloes 
and  inyrrh,  each  i  ounce;  balsam  Peru,  1 
ounce ;  balsam  tolu,  2  ounces ;  extract  of 
liquorice,  2  ounces ;  alcohol,  2  quarts.  Let  it 
stand  for  2  weeks,  with  occasional  agitation, 
and  filter  the  whole  through  paper.  A  good 
application  for  wounds  and  cuts ;  and  as  such 
was  very  effectual  in  the  hands  of  the  old 
friars.  Internally,  it  is  stimulant,  expector- 
ant, and  anti-spasmodic,  and  is  useful  in 
asthma,  catarrh,  consumption,  and  lan- 
guid circulation.  Dose,  k  a  drachm  on  loaf 
sugar. 

5092.  Balsam  of  Horehound.  Dis- 
solve 2  ounces  each  extract  of  horehound 
and  extract  of  liquorice,  in  i  pint  hot  water ; 
when  cold,  add  |  pint  paregoric,  6  ounces 
oxymel  of  squills,  2  ounces  tincture  of  ben- 
zoin, and  10  ounces  honey.  Mix  well  and 
strain  through  flannel.  Dose  for  an  adult,  5 
to  Ik  tea-spoonfuls,  accompanied  by  a  dose  or 


two  of  aperient  medicine. 
5093.     Balsam  of  Honey. 


Balsam  of 


tolu,  1  ounce;  gum  storax,  1  drachm;  puri- 
fied opium,  15  grains;  best  honey,  4  ounces; 
rectified  spirits  of  wine,  1  pint.  Digest  them 
together  for  a  week,  and  strain  the  liquor. 
This  prescription  is  of  great  use  in  colds  and 
habitual  coughs,  unaccompanied  by  feverish 
symptoms.  The  dose  is  from  1  'to  3  tea- 
spoonfuls  occasionally. 

5094.  Balsam  Riga.  Young  shoots  of 
fir  (collected  in  March),  2  pounds ;  rectified 
spirit  and  water,  of  each  5  pints.  Bruise  the 
fir-shoots  and  macerate  in  the  spirit  and  water 
for  3  or  4  days,  then  distill  1  gallon.  Or  :  Mix 
together  rectified  spirit,  8  ounces ;  oil  of  ju- 
niper and  compound  tincture  of  benzoin,  of 
each  1  ounce ;  agitate  well  and  filter.  Stim- 
ulant and  diuretic ;  also  used  for  sprains  and 


mix.     As  a  pectoral  in  coughs  and    colds. 
Dose,  1  tea-spoonful. 

5098.  Anodyne    Balsam.      Take    of 
white  soap,  1  ounce;    opium,  unprepared,  2 
drachms;  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  9  ounces; 
digest  them  together  by  a  gentle  heat  for  3 
days ;  then  strain  off  the  liquor,  and  add  to  it 
3  drachms  of  camphor.     This  balsam  is  of 
service  in  violent  sprains  and  rheumatic  com- 
plaints, when  not  attended  with  inflamma- 
tion.   It  must  bo  rubbed  with  a  warm  hand 
on  the  part  affected,  or  a  linen  rag  moistened 
with   it,  and  renewed  every  third   hour  till 
the  pain  abates. 

5099.  Balsam   of   Turpentine.    Melt 
by  a  gentle  heat  black  resin,  1  pound ;  remove 
the  vessel  from  the  fire  and  add  oil  of  turpen- 
tine, 1  pint. 

5100.  Canada    Balsam.     This  balsam 
is  the  product  of  the  Canadian  balsam  fir,  a 
tree  of  very  common  growth  in  Canada  and 
the  State  of  Maine.    When  fresh,  it  has  the 
consistence  of  thin  honey,  an  agreeable  odor, 
an  acid  taste,  and  a  pale  yellow  color,  nearly 
white.     It  should  be  perfectly  transparent, 
and  soluble  in  rectified  oil  of  turpentine,  with 
which  it  forms  a  beautiful  glassy  and  color- 
less varnish,  which  is  much  used  for  preparing 
a  semi-transparent  copying-paper.    A  facti- 
tious kind  is  sold,  but  is  wholly  deficient  of 
some  of  the  properties  of  the  genuine  balsam. 

5101.  Factitious  Canada  Balsam. 
Dissolve  3  pounds  of  clear  yellow  resin  in  1 
gallon  of  oil  of  turpentine ;  then  add  i  pint  of 
pale  linseed  oil,  and  -J-  ounce  each  of  essence 
of  lemon  and  oil  of  rosemary. 

5102.  Factitious   Balsam   of    Tolu. 
Dissolve  orange  shellac  and  gum  benzoin,  of 
each  1  pound,  in  coarse  powder ;  in  rectified 
spirit,  5  pounds  (in  a  close  vessel) ;  filter  and 
distill  off'  the  spirit  until  the  residuum  has  a 
proper  consistence,  then  add  a  few  drops  of 
the  oils  of  cassia  and  nutmeg,  dissolved  in  a 
little  essence  of  vanilla.     Or :  Take  of  balsam 
of  tolu,  4   ounces;  white  resin,   16  ounces; 
sheep's  suet,  1£  ounces,  or  sufficient  to  make 
it  soft  enough,  according  to  climate  or  season. 

5103.  To  Detect  Factitious  Balsam 
of  Tolu.     The  genuine  balsam  is   perfectly 
soluble  in  alcohol,  forming  a  transparent  so- 
lution. By  exposure  to  the  air  it  becomes  hard 
and  brittle.     It  is  frequently  adulterated,  in 
which  case  it  has  a  weaker  smell,  is  less  solu- 
ble in  alcohol,  and  the  tincture  formed  with 
that  fluid  is  opaque. 

5104.  Factitious  Balsam  of  Copaiba. 
Powdered  gum  benzoin,  4  ounces;  castor  oil, 
1  gallon;  yellow  resin,  3  pounds;  balsam  01 
Canada,  2  pounds ;  oil  of  juniper,  2  ounces ; 
oil  of  savine,  1  ounce ;  essences  of  orange  and 
lemon,  of  each  i  ounce.    Melt  the  resin,  then 
add  a  little  of  the  castor  oil  and  the  powdered 
benzoin,  and  withdraw  the  heat;  when  well 
mixed  add  the  remainder  of  the   castor  oil, 
and,   when  nearly  cold,   the  essences;   mix 
well,  and  filter  through  a  Canton  flannel  bag, 
adding  a  little  coarsely  powdered  charcoal. 

5105.  Imitation  Balsam  of  Copaiba. 
Balsam  of  Canada,  8  pounds ;  yellow  resin,  3 
pounds ;  castor  oil,  3  pounds ;  oil  of  juniper, 
J  ounce ;  essential  oil  of  almonds,  15  drops ; 
oil  of  savine,  20  drops.    As  above. 

tolu  and   compound  tincture   of  benzoin,  of      5106.     Reduced  Balsam  of  Copaiba. 
each   2  ounces ;    rectified    spirit,   4  ounces ;  I  Balsam  of  copaiba,  4  pounds ;   castor  oil,  3 


bruises. 
5095.     Glycerine  Balsam. 


This  is  de- 


signed to  whiten  and  soften  the  skin,. remove 
roughness,  chaps,  chilblains,  and  irritations 
from  common  causes.  Take  pure  white  wax, 
1  ounce;  spermaceti,  2  ounces;  oil  of  al- 
monds, 9  ounces.  Melt  together  by  a  moder- 
ate heat  in  a  glazed  earthenware  vessel,  and 
add  pure  glycerine,  3  ounces ;  balsam  of  Peru, 
i  ounce.  The  mixture  is  to  be  stirred  until 
nearly  cold,  and  then  poured  into  pots.  In- 


attar  of  rose  may  be  employed. 
5096.      Universal   Wound 


Balsam. 


Gum  benzoin,  in  powder,  6  ounces ;  balsam  of 
tolu,  in  powder,  3  ounces ;  gum  storax,  2 
ounces ;  frankincense,  in  powder,  2  ounces ; 
gum  vnyrrh,  in  powder,  2  ounces ;  socotrine 
aloes,  in  powder,  3  ounces ;  alcohol,  1  gallon. 
Mix  them  all  together  and  put  them  in  a 
digester,  and  give  them  a  gentle  heat  for  3  or 
4  days  ;  then  strain.  30  or  40  drops  on  a 
lump  of  sugar  may  be  taken  at  any  time,  for 
flatulency  or  pain  at  the  stomach  ;  and  in  old 
age,  where  nature  requires  stimulation.  This 
valuable  remedy  should  be  kept  in  every  fam- 
ily ready  for  use;  it  cannot  be  surpassed  as  an 
application  for  cuts  and  recent  wounds,  and  is 
equally  good  for  man  or  animals. 
5097.  Pectoral  Balsam.  Tincture  of 


4,58 


TONICS. 


pounds;  mis.  Or:  Balsam  of  copaiba,  7 
pounds ;  castor  oil,  4  pounds ;  yellow  resin,  2 
pounds.  Or:  Equal  parts  of  balsam  of  co- 
paiba and  balsam  of  Canada  mixed  together. 
Or :  To  the  last  add  2  pounds  of  Venice  tur- 
pentine. Or :  Balsams  of  Canada  and  copaiba, 
and  nut  or  castor  oil,  equal  parts.  Or:  Co- 
paiba, 7  pounds;  nut  oil,  3  pounds;  yellow 
resin,  2  pounds ;  balsam  of  Canada,  1  pound. 
The  above  are  the  forms  for  the  reduction  of 
copaiba  balsam,  that  have  from  time  to  time 
been  circulated  in  the  drug  trade.  For  the 
mode  of  distinguishing  such  compounds  from 
the  pure  balsam,  see  next  receipt. 

5107.  To  Detect  Factitious  or  Re- 
duced Balsam  Copaiba.  Chevallier  recom- 
mends the  following  test:  Place  a  drop  of  the 
balsam  on  a  piece  of  unsized  -paper,  and  heat 
it  until  all  the  essential  oil  be  expelled;  it 
should  then  form  a  semi-transparent,  well- 
defined  spot;  but  if  the  balsam  has  been 
adulterated  with  a  fat  oil,  it  will  be  surrounded 
by  an  oily  areola.  According  to  Blanche,  the 
pure  balsam,  when  shaken  with  liquid  ammo- 
nia specific  gravity  .965,  becomes  clear  and 
transparent  in  a  few  moments.  Vigne  says : 
2k  parts  pure  balsam  with  1  part  liquor  of 
ammonia,  form  a  transparent  mixture,  which 
may  be  heated  to  212°  without  becoming 
opaque.  Boiled  with  50  times  its  weight  of 
water  for  1  hour,  it  should  lose  at  least  half  its 
weight. 

Dr.  Hager  recommends  the  following  sim- 
ple mode  as  very  reliable  for  detecting  adulter- 
ation of  copaiba  balsam  with  turpentine  oil :  5 
or  6  drops  of  water  and  about  1  drachm  of  the 
balsam  are  mixed  in  a  small  porcelain  dish 
with  as  much  litharge  as  will  make  a  thin 
ointment.  This  mass,  at  the  common  sum- 
mer temperature,  exhales  the  characteristic 
odor  of  oil  of  turpentine,  even  if  the  balsam 
is  adulterated  with  only  10  per  cent,  of  the  oil. 

5108.  Factitious   Balsam   of  Peru. 
Balsam   of  tolu,  1   pound;   gum   benzoin, 
pounds ;    liquid  storax,   1    ounce;    sufficient 
rectified  spirit.    The  gum  benzoin  in  coarse 
powder  is  dissolved  in  a  little  of  the  spirit, 
and  then  mixed  up  with  the  balsam  of  tolu 
and  storax,  adding  as  much  spirit  as  is  neces- 
sary to  reduce  it  to  a  proper  consistence. 

5109.  Reduced    Balsam    of    Peru. 
Balsam  of  Peru,  3  pounds ;  balsam  of  tolu,  2 
pounds;  rectified  spirit  enough  to  reduce  it  to 
a  proper  consistence.     As  above.     Or:   Bal- 
sam of  Peru,  3  pounds;   gum  benzoin  dis- 
solved in  the  least  quantity  of  spirit  possible 
1  pound.     As  above. 

5110.  To   Detect  Factitious  or  Re- 
duced Balsam  of  Peru.     Genuine  balsam 
of  Peru  should  possess  the  following  charac- 
teristics:  It  should  have  a  consistence  anc 
appearance  resembling  molasses,  and  an  aro 
matic  odor  between  that  of  benzoin  and  va 
nilla.    It  should  be  entirely  soluble  in  alcohol 
It  should  undergo  no  diminution  in  volume 
when  agitated  with  water.     1000  parts  of  the 
balsam  should  saturate  exactly  75  grains  o' 
pure  crystallized  carbonate  of  soda.     Its  speci 
ric  gravity  should  not  bo  less  than  1.150,  no 
more  than  1.160. 

5111.  Factitious  Balm  of  Gilead 
Also  called  Baumc  dc  la  Mecquc.  Gun: 
benzoin,  1  pound ;  resin,  4  pounds ;  oil  lemon 
rosemary,  caraway,  of  each  4  ounces;  alcohol, 


efficient  quantity,  till  of  proper  consistence. 
)r :  4  ounces  gum  benzoin  may  be  dissolved 
jy  heat  in  1  pound  Canada  balsam,  and  to 
the  mixture,  when  cold,  J  ounce  each  of  the 
oils  of  rosemary,  lemon,  and  cassia,  added. 

5112.  Hoffmann's  Life  Balsam,  found 
n  Continental  Pharmacopoeias  under  the  name 
Mistura  oleoso-balsamica,  and  other  titles,  is 
>repared  as  follows :  Take  1  fluid  ounce  each 
)f  the  oils  of  lavender,  cloves,  cinnamon, 
thyme,  lemon  peel,  and  mace ;  3  fluid  ounces 
each  oil  of  berganiot  and  balsam  Peru ;  and  5 
nuts  alcohol.  The  oils  and  balsam  are  grad- 
ually added  to  the  alcohol,,  the  whole  well 
shaken  and  allowed  to  rest  for  a  few  days  in  a 
cool  place,  when  it  is  filtered  and  ready  for 
use.  Different  European  Pharmacopoeias  vary 
from  each  other  somewhat  in  the  proportion 
of  the  oils. 

5113.  Nervine   Balsam   or  Baume 
Nerval.     Expressed  oil  of  mace,   and  pre- 
pared ox-marrow,  of  each  4  ounces  melted 
together ;  oil  of  rosemary,  2  drachms ;  oil  of 
cloves,  1  drachm ;  camphor,  1  drachm ;  bal- 
sam of  tolu,  2  drachms;  the  last  two  dissolved 
in  rectified  spirit,  4  fluid  drachms;  and  the 
whole  stirred  till  cold. 

5114.  Balsam  of   Sulphur.     Boil   to- 
gether in  a  vessel,  tightly  covered,  1  part  flow- 
ers of  sulphur  and  4  parts  olive  oil,   until 
they  assume  the  consistence  of  a  thick  bal- 
sam.. 

5115.  Balm  of  Rakasiri.     Oil  of  rose- 
mary dissolved  in  common  gin. 

5116.  Balsam  de  Malta.    Gum  benzoin, 
2  ounces;  gum  aloes,  1  ounce;  alcohol,  2  pints. 
Mix. 


r^OHlCS.  Medicines  that  increase  the 
JL  tone  of  the  muscular  fibre,  and  impart 
vigor  to  the  system.  The  principal  mineral 
tonics  are  iron,  zinc,  copper,  silver,  arsenic, 
bismuth,  mercury,  and  the  mineral  acids.  The 
principal  vegetable  tonics  are  cinchona  or 
Peruvian  bark,  cinchonine,  quinine,  the  vege- 
table bitters,  and  some  of  the  aromatics.  Of 
the  above,  iron,  bark,  and  its  preparations,  and 
the  aromatic  bitters,  are  those  generally  em- 
ployed, and  which  prove  most  genial  to  the 
constitution. 

5118.  Stomachic  Elixir.     Pare  off  the 
thin  yellow  rinds  cf  6  large  oranges,  and  put 
them  in  a  quart  bottle  with  1  ounce  gentian 
root,  scraped  and  sliced,  and  £  drachm  cochi- 
neal.    Pour  over  these  ingredients  a  pint  of 
brandy ;  shake  the  bottle  well  several  times 
during  that  and  the  following  day;    let  it 
stand  2  days  more  to  settle,  and  clear  it  off 
into  bottles  for  use.     Take  1  or  2  tea-spoonfuls 
morning  and  afternoon,  in  a  glass  of  wine  or 
in  a  cup  of  tea.     This  elegant  preparation  is 
a  most  valuable  tonic. 

5119.  Stomachic  Elixir.    Gentian  root, 
2  ounces  ;  bitter  oranges,  sliced,  1  ounce;  Yir- 
ginia  snake-root,  £  ounce.    Bruise,  and  infuse 
for  4  days  in  1  pint  of  brandy ;  then  add  1 
pint  of  water.     A  wine-glassful  to  be  -taken 
occasionally.    Good  for  flatulency,  indigestion, 
want  of  appetite,  &c. 

5120.  Tonic   Infusion.     Gentian    root, 
sliced,   k  ounce;   dried   orange  peel,  bruit-ed, 
coriander  seeds,  bruised,  of  each   1  drachm ; 


ANODYNES  — DIAPHORETICS. 


4,59 


boiling  •water,  12  ounces.    Macerate  for  an 
hour  in  a  lightly  covered  vessel,  and  strain 
the  liquor.     This  infusion  is  often  most  bene- 
ficially employed  in  general  debility,  chronic 
fout,  indigestion,  and  other  ailments.    The 
ose  is  from  1  to  2  ounces  taken  3  or  4  times 
a  day. 

5121.  Infusion  of  Calumba.    Calumba 
root,  1  drachm ;  boiling  water,  £  pint.     Mace- 
rate for  4  hours  and  strain,  adding  afterwards 
£  ounce  of  spirit  of  cinnamon.     The  dose  is 
Ik  or  2  ounces.     It  is  an  excellent  tonic,  and 
is  held  in  high  esteem  by  many  eminent  phy- 
sicians, who  employ  it  in  the  latter  stage  of 
diarrhffia,  bilious  intermittent  fever,  and  puer- 
peral fever.     It  is  also  a  good  preparation  for 
allaying  the  nausea  and  vomiting  which  often 
accompany  pregnancy. 

5122.  Orange    Tonic.     Orange  peel,   1 
ounce ;  chamonnle  flowers,  1J  ounces,  and  a 
little  ginger.     Put  in  1  pint  of  boiling  water. 
Add   k  a   wine-glassful  of  brandy.     Take  a 
wine-glassful  at  a  time. 

5 1 23.  Spackman's  Tonic  and  Nervine 
Mixture.    Take  A  drachm  sulphate  of  quinine, 
6-?  grains    tannin,   1    ounce   ginger  syrup,   6 
drachms    fluid    extract    of  valerian,    and    2 
drachms  compound  tincture  of  cardamoms. 
Dose,  a  tea-spoonful  4  times  a  day. 

5124  Tonic  Aromatic  Mixture.  Di- 
gest in  a  cfose  vessel  for  3  days,  agitating 
frequently,  1  ounce  powdered  pale  cinchona 
bark,  3  drachms  powdered  caluinba  root,  2 
drachms  bruised  cloves,  and  k  ounce  iron 
filings  in  16  fluid  ounces  peppermint  water ; 
strain,  and  add  3  fluid  ounces  compound 
tincture  of  cardamoms,  and  3  fluid  drachms 
tincture  of  orange  peel.  Dose,  1  or  2  table- 
spoonfuls  or  more,  3  or  4  times  a  day. 

5125.  Tonic  Pills.     Extract  of  gentian, 
2  scruples  ;  sulphate  of  iron,  16  grains ;  sul- 
phate of  quinine,  10  grains.     Mix,  and  form 
into  pills.     Take  1  pill'three  times  a  day. 

5126.  Tonic  Tincture.     Peruvian  bark, 
bruised,   Ik  ounces;   orange  peel,  bruised,   1 
ounce ;  brandy,  or  proof  spirit,  1  pint.     Infuse 
10  days ;  shake  the  bottle  every  day.     Pour 
off  the  liquor,  and  strain.     Take  a  tea-spoon- 
ful in  a  wine-glassful  of  water  twice  a  day, 
when  you  feel  languid. 

5127.  Decoction  of  Red  or  Peruvian 
Bark.     Bruised  red  bark,  1  ounce ;  water,  1 
pint.     Boil  for  10  minutes  in  a  covered  vessel, 
and  strain  the  liquor  while  hot. 

5128.  Infusion  of  Red  or  Peruvian 
Bark.     Red  bark,  bruised,  1  ounce ;  boiling 
water,  1  pint.     Macerate  for  2  hours  in  a  cov- 
ered vessel,  and  strain.     This  is  of  great  use 
in  convalescence  from  acute  diseases.    It  con- 
tains a  considerable  amount  of  the  febrifuge 
and  strengthening  qualities  of  the  quinine. 

5129.  Dr.  Thompson's  Bitters.     Bal- 
inony  bark,  1  part ;  poplar  bark,  5  parts.     Boil 
in  water   sufficient    to   strain  24   gallons  of 
water  from  a  pound  of  the  bark,  to  which 
add  sugar,  3£  pounds  ;  nerve  powder,  2k  oun- 
ces; while  hot,  strain,  and  add  best  Malaga 
wine,  3&  gallons ;  tincture  of  meadow-fern,  1 
quart.      A   less   quantity  may  be  made  by 
observing  the  proper  proportions.    Dose,  from 
half  to  a  wine-glassful  twice  a  day.     These 
bitters  are  excellent.     They  are  sure  to  correct 
the  bile,  and  create  an  appetite  by  giving  tone 
to  the  digestive  powers. 


Medicines  which  allay 
pain.  Some  act  by  actually  assuaging 
pain ;  others  by  inducing  sleep ;  a  third  class 
give  ease  by  stupefying  the  senses,  or  lessen- 
ing the  susceptibility  to  pain.  Among  the 
principal  anodynes  are  opium,  morphia,  cam- 
phor, ether,  chloroform,  nitrous  oxide  or 
laughing  gas,  <fec. 

5131.  Anodyne  Powder.      Opium,    k 
ounce ;    camphor,    3    drachms ;    valerian,    1 
ounce;   cayenne  pepper,  1   ounce.     Put  the 
opium  and  camphor  into  a  close  bag;  place  it 
on  the  oven  top  to  harden.     Powder  and  mix. 
Take  J  tea-spoonful  at  a  time.     Most  valua- 
ble in  colic,  cramp,  and  severe  pains. 

5132.  Anodyne  Substitute  for  Opium. 
Take  2k  drachms  each  tincture  of  lupuline 
(hops),  and  tincture  of  henbane;  5  drachms 
camphor  water.     A  tea- spoonful  of  the  mix- 
ture may  be  given  every  2  hours  in  cases 
where  opium  cannot  be  administered. 

5133.  Anodyne  Cigars.     The  leaves  of 
the  belladonna  (deadly  nightshade),  4  parts, 
moistened  with  1  part  tincture  of  opium,  dried 
and  made  into  cigarettes  of  1  drachm  each ; 
or  the  leaves  alone,  without  the  addition  of 
opium,  form  an  effective  anodyne  in  trouble- 
some coughs,  tooth-ache,  sore  throat,  &c. 


Diaphoreti.CS.  Medicines  that 
increase  the  perspiration.  Those  that 
produce  this  effect  in  a  powerful  degree  are 
generally  called  sudorifics.  The  principal 
diaphoretics  are  warm  diluents,  as  gruel,  tea, 
barley-water,  &e. ;  salts  of  the  alkalies,  as  the 
citrates  of  potassa  and  soda,  acetate  and  car- 
bonate of  ammonia,  sal-ammoniac,  nitre,  &c. ; 
preparations  of  antimony,  as  tartar  emetic, 
antimonial  powder,  &c. ;  also  Dover's  powder, 
opium,  camphor,  ipecacuanha,  alcohol,  wine, 
&c.  The  use  of  diaphoretics  is  indicated  in 
most  diseases  accompanied  by  fever  and  a 
dry  skin. 

5135.  Balm  Tea.    Balm  leaves,  1  ounce ; 
fine  sugar,  1  spoonful ;  lemon  juice,  1  ounce ; 
infused  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water  for  20  min- 
utes.   This  forms  a  useful  drink  in  colds  or 
fevers.     Or  it  may  be  made  just  like  common 
tea,   without  the  lemon.      Let    the  patient 
drink  it  frequently,  especially  the  last  thing 
at  night,  and  keep  himself  warm  during  the 
perspiration. 

5136.  Herb  Drink  for  Fevers.  Infuse 

1  ounce  each  of  bairn,   elder-flowers,  marsh- 
mallow,  spearmint,  and  arnica-flowers,  with  -J- 
ounce  anise-seed,  in  boiling  water. 

5137.  Fever  Mixture.     Mix  2  scruples 
nitrate  of  potash  with  3  drachms  sweet  spirits 
of  nitre,  3  ounces  solution  of  acetate  of  am- 
monia,  4£    ounces    camphor   water,    and    2 
drachms  lemon  syrup.     Dose  for  an  adult, 

2  table-spoonfuls  every  4  hours.     Children  in 
proportion.  •  This  mixture  is  excellent  whero 
the  fever  affects  the  head. 

5138.  Infusion  to  Produce  Sweating. 
Infuse  1  ounce  pleurisy  root  for  30  minutes  in 
li  pints  water.    A  tea-spoonful  taken  warm 
as  often  as  the  stomach  will  bear  it. 

5139.  Boneset  Tea.    Infuse    1  ounce 
boneset  in  1  pint  boiling  water  for  30  minutes. 


4=60 


DIURETICS— ELECTUARIES. 


A  wine-glassful  as  hot  as  possible  every  half 
hour  will  produce  a  profuse  perspiration. 

5140.  Blessed    Thistle   Tea.      The 
leaves  of   the   blessed  thistle  prepared  and 
administered  in  the  same  "way  as  boneset  (see 
last  receipt),   but  not  sufficient  to  produce 
nausea,  "will  have  a  similar  effect. 

5141.  Febrifuge  Wine.     The  follow- 
ing mixture  is  highly  recommended  for  fever 
and  ague:  quinine,  25  grains;  water,   1  pint; 
Epsom  salts,  2  ounces;   brandy,  1  gill;    sul- 
phuric  acid,  12  drops ;  loaf  sugar,  2  ounces. 
Color  with  tincture  of  red  saunders.     Take  a 
wine-glassful  three  times  a  day. 

5142.  Sweating  Drops.     Take  of  cam- 
phor, saffron,  ipecacuanha,  opium,   and  Yir- 
ginia  snake-root,    i    ounce    each;    Holland 
gin,  li  pints ;  infuse  2  or  3  days.    A  wonder- 
fully efficacious  cure  for  fever  and  ague,  after 
suitable  evacuants.    Dr.  Beach  says  he  finds 
this  the  best  medicine  for  fever  and  ague  of 
any  with  which  he  is  acquainted.    In  two 
cases  this  tincture  removed  the  paroxysms 
where  other  remedies  failed. 

5143.  Spirit    of  Minder  erus,  or  So- 
lution of  Acetate  of  Ammonia.      Take  of 
diluted    acetic   acid,  2  pints;  carbonate   of 
ammonia,  in  powder,    a  sufficient  quantity. 
Add  the  carbonate  of  ammonia  gradually  to 
the  acid,  until  it  is  saturated.    This  is  a  valu- 
able diaphoretic,  and  is  much  employed   in 
fevers  and  inflammatory  diseases. 

5144.  Houseleek  for  Fevers.     It  is 
nsed  as  a  cooling  application  to  sores,  ulcers, 
&c.    The  juice  mixed  with  cream  is  good  for 
inflammation    of  the    eyes,   and    erysipelas. 
Taken  inwardly  it  is  good  for  fevers,  cooling 
them  down  wonderfully.     First  give  a  pur- 
gative to  cleanse  the  stomach  and  bowels; 
then  bruise  the  houseleek ;  adding  to  the  juice 
its  weight  in  fine  sugar  to  form  a  syrup.     A 
table-spoonful  every  2  hours.     Drink  balm  or 
catnip  tea.     This  receipt  is  worth  gold. 

5145.  Sudorific,  or  Fever   Powder. 
Crawley  root,  1  ounce  ;  lobelia  herb,  \  ounce  ; 
pleurisy  root,  1   ounce ;    skunk    cabbage,   ^ 
ounce.      Powder,   and  mix  them    together. 
Dose,  from  J   to  i    tea-spoonful    every    one 
hour  and  a  half  till  perspiration  is  produced. 
It  may  be  given  in  balm  or  common  tea.    In 
fevers,   inflammations,  influenza,   and  colds, 
this  powder  is  invaluable.     It  subdues  irrita- 
tion, corrects  the  pulse,  improves  respiration, 
and  promotes  sound  natural  sleep.    It  is  sure, 
if  properly  administered,  to  arrest  a  fever. 
Keep  it  in  a  bottle,  well  corked. 


Di"U.retiCS.  Medicines  which  pro- 
mote the  secretion  of  urine.  The  prin- 
cipal diuretics  are  aqueous  fluids,  which  act 
by  increasing  the  watery  portion  of  the  blood, 
and  certain  substances  which  promote  the 
secretion  of  urine,  by  stimulating  the  kid- 
neys. Among  the  former  may  be  classed 
nearly  all  aqueous  liquids,  as  most  of  them 
produce  diuresis,  if  the  skin  be  kept  cool. 
Among  the  latter  may  be  mentioned  the  ni- 
trate, acetate,  and  bitartrate  of  potassa ;  oils 
of  juniper,  turpentine,  cajeput,  and  copaiba ; 
dilute  spirit  and  sweet  spirits  of  nitre;  decoc- 
tion of  common  broom,  &c. 


5147.  Diuretic  Drops.       Tincture  of 
kino,  4  ounce ;  balsam  of  copaiba,  spirits  of 
turpentine,  of  each  1  ounce ;  sweet  spirits  of 
nitre,  2  ounces ;   queen   of  the  meadow,  1 
ounce.    Mix,  and  add  1  scruple  of  camphor. 
Take    nearly    a    tea-spoonful    in    mucilage. 
Most  valuable  for  scalding  urine,  inflamma- 
tion of  the  kidneys,  <fec. 

5148.  Diuretic     Infusion.       Parsley 
seeds,  i  ounce ;  cleavers,    £  ounce ;   burdock 
seeds,  £  ounce  ;  coolwort,  £  ounce ;  spearmint, 
^  ounce ;  juniper  berries,  £  ounce ;  linseed,  i 
ounce;    gum  arabic,   J  ounce.      Pour  upon 
these  2  quarts  boiling  water ;  infuse  2  or  3 
hours,  covering  the  vessel.     Strain,  and  add 
i  pint   of  best  gin,  4  ounces  of  honey,  and  3 
table-spoonfuls   of  slippery   elm.     This  is  a 
most  valuable  diuretic;  it  is  cooling,  allays 
all    urinary    affections,   gravel,    scalding    of 
urine,  and  causes  an  easy  and  sufficient  flow 
of  the  same. 

5149.  Diuretic  Pills.      Calcined  Mag- 
nesia, 1  drachm;  solidified  copaiba,  2  ounces; 
extract  of  cubebs,  1  ounce ;  oil  of  turpentine, 
4  drops ;  oil  of  juniper,  6  drops ;  form  into 
3-grain  pills.  Take  1  or  2  a  few  times  a  day. 
A  sovereign  remedy  for  diseases  of  the  kid- 
neys, bladder,  urethra,  gravel,  whites,  and  ve- 
nereal complaints. 

5150.  Buchu  Leaves.      They  are  diu- 
retic and  tonic,  and  a  most  valuable  remedy 
in  rheumatism,  irritable  bladder,  gravel,  stric- 
ture, <fec.    They  are  given  in  infusion  and 
tincture.     Infuse  ^  ounce  of  leaves  in  i  pint 
of  boiling  water,    for  3  or  4  hours.      A  wine- 
glassful  for  a  dose  2  or  3  times  a  day ;  or 
from  1  drachm  to  -J-  ounce  of  the  tincture.' 

5151.  Compound  Spirit  of  Juniper. 
Stimulant  and  diuretic,  administered  in  doses 
of  2  to  4  drachms.      This  spirit,  when  mixed 
with  2  or  3  times  its  weight  of  proof  spirit, 
makes  a  fair  imitation  of  Holland  gin.     Take 
15  ounces  bruised  juniper  berries,    2  ounces 
each  of  bruised  caraway  and  fennel,  1  gallon 
proof  spirit,  and  about  1  quart  water.     Distill 
1  gallon.     The    wholesale    preparation  is  a 
solution  of  2  drachms  oil  of  juniper,  J  drachm 
each  of  the  oils  of  caraway  and  sweet  fennel, 
in  5  quarts  proof  spirit.    If  not  clear,   filter 
through  magnesia. 


EleCtliarieS.  These  are  chiefly 
mixtures  of  vegetable  substances  com- 
bined with  syrup  or  honey,  so  as  to  be  of  a 
moderate  consistence,  neither  liquid  nor  solid. 
The  object  of  such  preparations  is  to  secure  a 
vehicle  by  which  medicines  may  be  adminis- 
tered, so  that  their  taste  may  be  covered 
by  the  mixture  with  which  they  are  com- 
bined. 

5153.  Aperient  Electuary.     Cream  of 
tartar,  1  ounce ;  milk  of  sulphur,  1  ounce ; 
sub-borate  of  soda,  2k  drachms;    syrup   of 
ginger,  of  sufficient  quantity  to  give  the  re- 
quired consistence.    The  dose  is  1  or  2  tea- 
spoonfuls  at  bedtime.     This  will  be  found  a 
mild  and  excellent  laxative,  and  often  is  of 
great  use  in  uterine  obstructions. 

5154.  Lenitive  Electuary.     The  mode 
of  preparing  this  electuary  is  the  following: 
Take  of  the  best  senna  leaves  reduced  to  a 


FOMENTATIONS  — ALTERATIVES  — EMETICS. 


fine  powder,  4  ounces;  pulp  of  prunes,  1 
pound ;  pulp  of  cassia,  J  pound  ;  pulp  of  tam- 
arinds, 3  ounces ;  molasses,  1$  pints  ;  essential 
oil  of  caraway,  2  drachms.  Boil  the  pulps 
with  the  molasses  to  the  consistence  of  honey, 
add  the  senna,  and  when  the  mixture  is 
pearly  cold,  add  the  oil  of  caraway,  and, 
lastly,  mix  the  compound  thoroughly.  This 
preparation  is  a  mild  aperient,  suited  to  consti- 
pation from  whatever  cause.  It  is  admir- 
ably suited  to  children  and  delicate  persons. 
United  with  an  equal  quantity  of  flowers  of 
sulphur,  it  is  an  admirable  remedy  for  piles. 
Dose,  from  1  to  3  tea-spoonfuls  at  bed-time. 


Fomentations,  in  domestic 
practice  hot  fomentations  are,  although 
a  simple,  yet  a  very  useful  remedy  for  allay- 
ing pain,  relieving  irritation,  relaxing  and 
removing  spasms,  and  inducing  not  only 
local,  but  even  general  perspiration.  Cloths 
dipped  in  very  hot  water,  wrung  out  and  in- 
stantly applied  on  the  seat  of  the  pain,  will  be 
frequently  of  very  great  service.  But  in 
some  cases  it  adds  to  the  efficacy  of  the  appli- 
cation to  employ  substances  possessing  medi- 
cal properties  in  addition  to  the  mere  applica- 
tion of  heat.  In  every  process  of  fomentation 
there  should  be  two  flannels,  each  ("say)  three 
yards  long,  with  the  ends  sewed  together,  to 
admit  of  the  boiling  water  being  wrung  out 
of  them,  and  the  one  flannel  should  be  got 
ready  whilst  the  other  is  applied. 

5156.  Anodyne  Fomentation.    White 
poppy    heads,   3    ounces;    elder    flowers,    k 
ounce ;  water,  3  pints.     Boil  until  the  liquor 
is  reduced  to  §•  of  its  original  quantity,  and 
strain  it;    2  or  3   tea-spoonfuls   tincture  of 
opium  or  laudanum,  and  30  drops  tincture  of 
cayenne,  may  in  some  cases  be  added  to  it. 
This  fomentation  relaxes  spasm,  and  relieves 
acute  pain. 

5157.  Fomentation  for  Ordinary  Oc- 
casions.    Dried  mallows,  1   ounce ;  chauio- 
mile   flowers,  dried,  k  ounce;  water,  1   pint. 
Boil  for  i  hour,  and  strain  the  liquor. 

5158.  Strengthening    Fomentation. 
Decoction    of   oak    bark,   2  pints;    alum,   3 
drachms.     Mix.     This  is  a  powerful  astrin- 
gent, and  often  of  great  use  when  applied 
to  weak  parts. 

5159.  Arnica  Fomentation.     Flowers 
of  arnica,   2   ounces ;    rue  leaves,   1   ounce ; 
boiling  water  sufficient  to  strain  6  fluid  oun- 
ces of  infusion  after  an  hour's  maceration  at 
nearly  boiling  temperature.     Used  in  contu- 
sions, especially  as  an  application  to  black 
eyes. 

5160.  Stimulating  Fomentation. 
Cayenne  pepper,  3  ounces ;  mustard  seed 
just  bruised,  2  ounces;  whiskey,  2  quarts. 
vSirnmer  all  together  a  few  minutes.  Excel- 
lent external  application  in  cholera,  paralysis, 
palsy,  rheumatism,  &c.  A  less  quantity 
may  be  made. 

Alteratives.    Medicines  which  effect 
.A\^  some  alteration  in  the  nature  or  the 
quality   of  the  vital  action,  and  occasion  a 
change  in  the  habit  or  constitution,  establish- 
ing the  healthy  functions  of  the  body  with- 


out producing  any  sensible  evacuation  by 
)erspiration,  vomiting,  or  purging.  The  pre- 
parations of  mercury  and  iodine,  when  pro- 
perly administered,  are  among  the  most 
isefnl  and  generally  employed  alteratives. 

5162.  Alterative  Pills.     Lobelia  seeds, 
2  drachms ;  mandrake,  2  drachms  ;  blue  flag, 
2  drachms ;  blood  root,  2  drachms ;  cayenne 
pepper,  1  drachm ;  gum  guiacum,  2  drachms ; 
extract  of  dandelion,  6  drachms ;  oil  of  pep- 
permint, 3  or  4  drops ;  simple  syrup  to  form 
'nto  pills.    Dose,  2  pills  twice  or  thrice  a  day. 
These  pills  are  of  great  service  in  bilious  and 
iver  complaints,  diseased  joints,   boils,  car- 
auncles,  cutaneous  eruptions,  scrofula,  syph- 
ilis, <fec. 

5163.  Alterative  Syrup.     Tincture  of 
cayenne,   J  ounce ;    tincture  of  lobelia  and 
tincture  of  myrrh,  of  each  2  ounces ;  molasses, 
i  pound.     Mfx.    A  tea-spoonful  2  or  3  times 
a  day.     Noted  for  its  effectual  cure  of  cuta- 
neous   sores,    boils,   indigestion,    and    some 
chronic  complaints. 

5164.  Dandelion  Alterative.    A  use- 
ful alterative  medicine,   especially  in    cases 
where  the  function  of  the  liver  is  at  fault. 
Dose,   fluid  extract  of  dandelion,  a  dessert- 
spoonful, twice  daily,  with  or  without  a  little 
water. 

5165.  Blood    Maker   and    Purifier. 
Mix  k  ounce  sulphate  of  manganese  with  1 
pint  water.      Dose,  a  wine-glassful  3  times  a 
day.    This  can  be  used  in  the  place  of  iron 
tonic,  or  in  connection  with  it. 

5166.  Pancoast's  Alterative  and 
Tonic  Pills.  1  scruple  extract  of  Ignatia 
amara  (the  bean  of  St.  Ignatius),  li  drachms 
bromide  of  potassa,  h  drachm  saccharine  car- 
bonate of  iron,  1  scruple  piperine,  and  1  scru- 
ple extract  of  henbane.  Make  into  60  pills, 
and  take  2,  fifteen  minutes  after  each  meal. 


Emeti.CS.  Medicines  which  induce  ' 
vomiting.  The  principal  emetics  are 
ipecacuanha  and  tartarized  antimony,  and 
their  preparations ;  and  the  sulphates  of  zinc 
and  copper.  Ipecacuanha  is  usually  adminis- 
tered in  substance  or  infused  in  wine.  The 
use  of  tartar  emetic  and  antimonial  wine  is 
generally  followed  by  nausea,  relaxation  of 
muscular  power  and  of  the  circulation.  Sul- 
phate of  zinc  acts  promptly  and  energetically, 
and  its  effects  cease  as  soon  as  ejected  from 
the  stomach ;  hence  it  is  employed  to  eject 
poison.  Sulphate  of  copper  is  more  violent 
and  disagreeable,  and  its  intense  metallic 
taste  is  a  great  objection  to  its  use.  The 
operation  of  emetics  is  powerfully  promoted 
by  drinking  copiously  of  diluents,  especially 
of  warm  or  tepid  water.  This  latter  is  itself 
an  emetic  when  taken  in  quantity.  Its  use 
prevents,  in  a  great  degree,  excessive  straining 
accompanying  vomiting. 

5168.  Emetic    Mixture.     Ipecacuanha 
wine,  k  ounce ;  water,  1  ounce ;  simple  syrup, 
i  ounce.     Mix.      For    a  child,   20    drops  or 
more,  every  quarter  of  an  hour  until  vomit- 
ing ensues.    An  adult  may  take  from  •£  to  1 
ounce. 

5169.  Eclectic  Emetic  Powder.    Ipe- 
cacuanha and  lobelia,  of  each  2  ounces ;  blood 


4,62 


PATENT  AND    PROPRIETARY  MEDICINES. 


root,  1  ounce.  Powder,  and  mix  well.  Take 
half  a  tea-spoonful  every  20  minutes  till  it 
operates. 

5170.  Simple  Emetic.  Half  a  glass  of 
•warm  water,  1  heaping  tea-spoonful  of  salt, 
and  another  of  mustard.  These  materials 
are  usually  to  be  had  at  a  moment's  notice, 
and  form  a  very  efficient  emetic. 


Patent  and  Proprietary 
Medicines.  The  following  re- 
ceipts embrace  a  variety  of  domestic,  popu- 
lar, and  proprietary  remedies,  and  include 
many  compounds  which,  without  being  pro- 
prietary, are  better  known  by  the  names  of 
the  practitioners  who  have  brought  them  into 
prominent  notice  than  by  any  other  title.  A 
variety  of  articles  not  included  in  this  place 
are  noticed  along  with  other  preparations  of 
the  class  to  which  they  belong,  or  under  the 
names  of  their  proprietors. 

5172.  Dolby's    Carminative.      Take 
oils  of  caraway,  fennel,  and  peppermint,  each 
10  drops  ;  rub  them  up  with  10  ounces  white 
sugar  aud  5  ounces  carbonate  or  lump  mag- 
nesia, then  add  1J  drachms  sal-tartar  and  2 
ounces  laudanum.     Mix  with  3£  pints  of  wa- 
ter. 

5173.  Kitchener's  Peristaltic  Persua- 
ders.       Turkey    rhubarb,     in     powder,     2 
drachms ;    oil  of  caraway,  10  drops ;    simple 
syrup,  1  drachm  by  weight;  mix,  and  divide 
into  40  pills.     Dose,  2,  3,  or  more.     From  2 
to  4  will  generally  produce  one  additional 
motion  within  12  hours.     The  best  time  to 
take  them  is  early  in  the  morning. 

5174.  Barclay's    Antibilious    Pills. 
Extract  of  colocynth,  2  drachms ;  extract  of 
jalap,  1  drachin ;  almond  soap,  li  drachms; 
guiacum,  3  drachms;  tartarized  antimony,  8 
grains ;   oil  of  juniper,  4  drops ;   oil  of  cara- 
way, 4  drops ;  oil  of  rosemary,  4  drops. 

5175.  Lee's  Antibilious  Pills.     Take 
pulverized  jalap,  aloes,  and  rhubarb,  each 
ounce ;  calomel,  3  drachms ;  pulverized  gam- 
boge, 1  drachm  ;  form  the  whole  into  a  mass 
with  shavings  of  castile  soap  and  syrup  ;  then 
make  into  pills. 

5176.  Dover's  Powder.     Ipecacuanha, 
in  powder,   1   drachm ;    powdered   opium,  1 
drachm;   powdered  saltpetre,  1  ounce.     All 
well  mixed.     Dose,  from  8  to  20  grains. 

The  TJ.  S.  Pharmacopoeia  directs  1  ounce 
sulphate  of  potassa  instead  of  the  saltpetre 
(nitrate  of  potassa) ;  in  other  respects  the 
formula  is  the  same  as  the  above. 

5177.  Thompson's    "Number  Six." 
Gum  myrrh,  1  pound  ;  golden  seal,  4  ounces ; 
put  these  into  a  jug,  shake  several  times  a 
day  for  8  days,  when  it  is  fit  for  use.     This  is 
a  stimulant  and  tonic. 

5 1 78.  Thompson's  Composition  Pow- 
der.     Take   bayberry,  8  ounces ;   ginger,  8 
ounces;    poplar  bark,  4  ounces;    white  oak 
bark,  4  ounces ;  cayenne  pepper,  3£  ounces ; 
cloves,  h  ounce.     Powder  and  mix  intimately. 
Dissolve  a  tea-spoonful  in  a  cup  of  boiling 
water,  sweetened.     Valuable  to  remove  colds, 
influenza,   fever,  relax,  pain  in  the  bowels, 
cold  extremities.     As  a  sudorific,  or  for  re- 


moving morbific  matter,  the  cause  of  disease, 
it  is  invaluable.  "When  taken,  the  patient 
should  go  to  bed,  and  make  use  of  any  of 
the  various  appliances  for  promoting  perspi- 
ration. 

5179.  Thompson's  Hot  Drops.  Gum 
myrrh,  2  ounces ;  cayenne  pepper,  l|  drachms ; 
spirit  of  wine.  1  pint.  Put  in  a  bottle,  and 
shake  several  times  a  day  for  a  week.  Tako 
a  tea-spoonful  or  more  in  a  little  warm  tea. 
It  is  a  fine  remedy  for  rheumatism.  It  will 
relieve  the  headache  by  taking  a  dose,  bathing 
the  head  with  it,  and  snuffing  it  up  the  nose. 
It  is  good  for  bruises,  sprains,  swollen  joints 
and  old  sores,  <fec.,  <tc. 

5180.  Anderson's  Scott's  Pills.     Bar- 
badoes  aloes,  24  ounces  ;  colocynth,  1  ounce  ; 
gamboge,  1  ounce ;  Spanish  soap,  4  ounces ; 
oil  of   anise,    £   ounce ;    water,   a    sufficient 
quantity.     To  be  made  into  3-grain  pills. 

5181.  Marshall  Hall's  Dinner  Pills. 
Take  of  powdered  Barbadoes  aloes,  soap,  and 
powdered  extract  of  liquorice,  of  each  equal 
parts.     Make  a  mass  with  molasses,  and  form 
into  pills  of  4  grains  'each. 

5182.  White's  Gout  Pills.     Take  of 
calomel,  powdered  socotrine  aloes,  powdered 
ipecacuanha,    and    acetic   extract  of   colchi- 
cum,  of  each  1  drachm.     Make  a  mass  with 
syrup,  and  form  into  60  pills. 

5183.  Abernethy's  Pills.      Take    of 
powdered   socotrine   aloes,   48  grains  ;   pow- 
dered   ipecacuanha,    20    grains ;    extract    of 
henbane,    48    grains ;     blue    pill    mass,     24 
grains.     Make  a  mass  with  water,  and  form 
into  24  pills. 

5184.  Triplex  Pills.      Take   of  pow- 
dered  socotriue   aloes,  2  ounces ;    powdered 
scammony,   1  ounce;  blue  pill  mass,  2  oun- 
ces ;    oil  of  caraway,  3  drachms.      Make  a 
mass  with  syrup,  and  form  into  pills  of  5 
grains  each. 

5185.  Peter's  Pills.     Aloes,  jalap,  gam- 
boge,  and  scammony,   of  each   2   drachms ; 
calomel,  1  drachm. 

5186.  Walter's  Indian  Vegetable 
Pills.  Socotriue  aloes,  1  pound ;  powdered 
gamboge,  6  ounces;  compound  extract  of 
colocynth,  castile  soap,  and  Aleppo  scam- 
mony, of  each  3  ounces  ;  extract  of  butter- 
nut, 2  ounces ;  African  cayenne,  i  ounce ; 
oil  of  cloves,  1  drachm.  Mix  and  make  into 
4-grain  pills. 

5187.  Becquerel's  Gout  Pills.      Mix 
together  106  grains  sulphate  of  quinine,  15| 
grains   extract  of  digitalis   (fox-glove),   and 
38£  grains   of  colchicum   seeds.     Make  into 
50  pills.     Dose,  from  1  to  3  daily  for  several 
days  in  succession. 

5188.  Health  Pills.  Pillsalutis.    Take 
2  drachms  socotrine  aloes,  1  drachm  extract 
of  henbane,  16  grains  extract  of  nux-vomica, 
and  10  grains  powdered  ipecacuanha.     Mix, 
and  make  into  60  pills. 

5189.  Leake's  Pill  of  Health.     Pitt 
salutaria.       Take     2    drachms     calomel,    2 
drachms  precipitated  sulphuret  of  antimony, 
\  ounce  powdered  gum  guiacum,  and  \  ounce 
molasses.     Mix,  and  make  into  240  pills. 

5190.  Thomas'  Colocynth  and  Man- 
drake Pills.     Take  k  drachm  compound  ex- 
tract of  colocynth,  and  3  grains  resin  of  podo- 
phyllin.     Mix,  and  make  into  12  pills.     Dose, 
2  at  bed-time. 


PATENT  AND    PROPRIETARY   MEDICINES. 


463 


5191.  Farrish's  Aloes  and  Mandrake 
Pills,     Take  24  grains  aloin,  12  grains  resin 
of  podophyllin,  and  4  minims  oleo-resin  of 
ginger.     Mix,  and  make  into  24  pills.     Dose, 
as  a  laxative,  1  pill ;  as  a  purgative,  2  or  3 
pills. 

5192.  Chirayta   Pills  and   Mixture. 
Dr.  Keece's  pills.      Extract  of  chirayta  (chi- 
retta),  2  drachms ;  dried  soda,  20  grains ;  gin- 
ger, 15  grains ;  mix,  and  divide  into  30  pills. 
Two  twice    a    day.      Mixture :    Infusion  of 
chirayta,  8   ounces ;  subcarbonate  of  soda,  1 
drachm ;  2  table-spoonfuls  3  times  a  day. 

5193.  Bateman's    Pectoral    Drops. 
Compound  spirit  of  aniseed,  16  fluid  ounces ; 
opium,  1  drachm  ;  camphor,  1  drachm ;  oil  of 
fennel,  20  drops  ;  cochineal,  2  drachms. 

Or :  Proof  spirit,  4  gallons ;  red  saunders,  2 
ounces ;  digest  24  hours,  filter,  and  add  pow- 
dered opium,  2  ounces ;  camphor,  2  ounces ; 
catechu,  2  ounces;  oil  of  aniseed,  4  fluid 
drachms;  digest  for  10  days.  (Philadelphia 
College  of  Pharmacy.)  The  old  wine  gallon  is 
here  intended. 

5194.  Glutton's    Febrifuge     Spirit. 
The  original  formula  is  :  oil  of  sulphur  by  the 
bell,   oil  of  vitriol  and  sea  salt,   of  each  1 
ounce ;  rectified  spirit,  3  ounces ;  mix,  digest 
for  a  month,  and  distill  to  dryness. 

5195.  Glutton's  Febrifuge  Tincture. 
Febrifuge    spirit,    8    fluid    ounces;    angelica 
root,  serpentary,  cardamom  seed,  of  each  1£ 
drachms;  digest  and  strain.    "Water  acidula- 
ted with  these,  and  sweetened  to  the  taste, 
forms  a  cooling  diuretic  and  diaphoretic  julep. 
Though  never   admitted   into    the  Pharma- 
copoeia, these  preparations  are  favorites  with 
some  practitioners. 

5196.  Lartigue's  Gout   Pills.     Com- 
pound extract  of  colocynth,  20   grains;    ex- 
tract   of   colchicum,   GO    grains ;    extract  of 
opium,  1  grain  ;  mix,  and  divide  into  18  pills. 
Dose,  one  or  more,  according  to  their  purga- 
tive effect. 

5197.  Baillie's    Pills.     Compound    ex- 
tract of   colocyuth,    Ik  drachms;  extract  of 
aloes,  li   drachms;  castile   soap,  i  drachm; 
oil  of  cloves,  15  drops.     Make  into  38  pills. 
3  at  bed-time  occasionally. 

5198.  Marseilles  Vinegar.    Also  call- 
ed vinalgre  de  quatre  voleurs,  or  thieves'  vine- 
gar.  Dried  tops  of  large  and  small  wormwood, 
rosemary,  sage,  mint,  rue,  lavender-flowers, 
of  each  2  ounces ;  calamus  root,  cinnamon, 
cloves,   nutmeg,    garlic,   of  each    J    ounce; 
camphor,  k  ounce;  concentrated  acetic  acid, 
2  ouuces ;  strong  vinegar,  8  pounds.     Mace- 
rate the   herbs,   &c.,   in  the  vinegar   for   2 
weeks,    strain,  press,  and  add  the   camphor 
dissolved  in  the  acetic  acid.    It  is  said  that 
this    medicated    vinegar    was    invented    by 
four  thieves  of  Marseilles,  who  successfully 
employed  it  as  a  disinfectant  during  a  visita- 
tion of  pestilence. 

5199.  Collier's  Wine  of  Guinine.  Take 
disulphato  of  quinine,  18  grains ;  citric  acid, 
15  grains  ;  sound  orange  wine,  1  bottle,  or  24 
fluid  ounces. 

5200.  Chlorodyne.      The  composition 
of  this  well  known  secret  remedy  has  excited 
much  attention  among  chemists ;  many  for- 
mulae have   been  published,  but  it  is  difficult 
to  determine  which  of  them  approaches  near- 
est to  the  chlorodyne  of  J.  Collis  Browne,  its 


originator.  There  can  be  no  doubt  about  tae 
three  important  ingredients,  chloroform,  mor- 
phia, and  hydrocyanic  acid,  nor  can  there  be 
about  oil  of  peppermint  and  molasses.  The 
question  is  whether  anything  else  exists  in 
the  compound.  Hitherto,  of  the  formulae ', 
which  have  been  published,  two — one  by  Dr. 
Ogden,  the  other  by  Mr.  Squire — have  at- 
tracted most  attention.  The  difference  be- 
tween these  lay  essentially  in  the  presence  of 
Indian  hemp  and  capsicum  as  indicated  by 
Ogden,  their  absence  in  the  formula  given  by 
Squire.  But  besides  this,  the  proportion  of 
morphia,  as  given  by  the  two  authorities, 
differed  greatly.  Mr.  Edward  Smith  has  re- 
cently investigated  the  question,  and  pub- 
lished the  result  in  the  London  Pharmaceuti- 
cal Journal.  He  puts  the  composition  of 
chlorodyne  as  follows :  Mix  together  4  fluid 
drachms  chloroform,  20  grains  muriate  of 
morphia,  2  fluid  drachms  rectified  ether,  8 
minims  oil  of  peppermint,  4  fluid  drachms  di- 
luted hydrocyanic  acid,  6  fluid  drachms 
tincture  of  capsicum,  1  fluid  ounce  acacia 
mixture,  and  add  4  fluid  ounces  molasses. 
This  does  not  give  as  dark  a  compound  as  the 
original,  because  the  latter  contains  caramel; 
but  as  this  has  no  medicinal  or  other  value, 
he  omits  it,  making  up  to  the  required 
volume  with  the  molasses.  Mr.  Smith  thinks 
there  is  no  Indian  hemp,  because  the  alcoholic 
extract  is  soluble  in  water ;  but  then  there  is 
capsicum,  as,  after  the  chlorofonn  and  ether 
(which  also  give  pungency  to  the  mixture) 
have  been  distilled  off,  the  substance  left 
behind  has  a  hot,  peppery  taste.  He  seems  to 
have  taken  much  pains  with  the  analysis. 

5201.  Ogden' s  Chlorodyne.     The  fol- 
lowing receipt  will  furnish  a  preparation  hav- 
ing the  pharmaceutical  properties  of  chloro- 
dyne, according  to  Dr.  Ogdeii :     To  8  grains 
muriate  of  morphia  and  £  fluid  drachm  water, 
add  20  drops  perchloric  acid  of  25°  Baume, 
and  heat  until  a  clear  solution  is  obtained ; 
then  add  £  fluid  ounce  molasses,  previously 
warmed  to  render  it  fluid ;  heat  the  mixture 
and  agitate  well.     TVhen  cold,  add  1£  fluid 
drachms    chloroform,    12  drops  hydrocyanic 
acid,  1  fluid  drachm  tincture  of  Indian  hemp, 
2  drops  oil  of  peppermint,  and  1  drop  oleo- 
resin  of  capsicum.     Mix  thoroughly. 

5202.  Groves'  Chlorodyne.     The  fol- 
lowing is  an  improvement  by  Mr.  Groves,  on 
the  receipt  of  Dr.  Ogden.    Take  chloroform,  4 
drachms;  ether,  1£  drachms;   oil  of  pepper- 
mint, 8  drops;  resin  of  Indian  hemp,  16  grains; 
capsicum,  2  grains ;  macerate  for  2  or  3  days, 
and  filter.      Then  dissolve  hydrochlorate  of 
morphia,  16  grains,  in  1  ounce  of  syrup ;  add 
perchloric  acid  and  water,  i   drachm  each, 
assisting  the  solution  by  a  water-bath ;  then, 
when  cold,  add  hydrocyanic  acid  (Scheelc's), 
96  drops.     Mix  the  solutions. 

5203.  Squire's  Chlorodyne.     Dissolve 
8  grains  muriate  of  morphia,  and  16  minims 
oil  of  peppermint,  in  4  ounces  rectified  spirit ; 
add  4  ounces  chloroform  and  1  ounce  ether ; 
next  dissolve  2£  ounces  extract  of  liquorice  in 
17 *  ounces  syrup,  and  add  4  ounces  molasses. 
Mix  these  2  solutions  together,  and  add  2 
ounces  prussic  acid. 

5204.  Chandler's  Chlorodyne.    Take 
8  grains  muriate  of  morphia,  i  drachm  fluid 
extract  of  cannabis  indica,   10  drops  oil  of 


4:64= 


PATENT  AND   PROPRIETARY  MEDICINES: 


peppermint,  15  drops  tincture  of  capsicum,  2 
drachms  chloroform,  and  1  ounce  each  of  98 
per  cent,  alcohol  and  pure  glycerine.  Dose, 
10  to  30  drops  in  a  wine-glass  of  water  every 
3  hours.  This  preparation  is  of  a  clear  green- 
ish color. 

5205.  Horsley's    Chlorodyne.      The 
following  formula  is  the  result  of  an  analysis 
made    by    Mr.    Horsley.      Burnt     sugar,    1 
drachm;  muriate  of  morphia,    i   grain;   dis- 
tilled water,  2  drachms ;  .oil  of  peppermint,  6 
minims;  dilute  prussic  acid,  5  minims;  tinc- 
ture of  capsicum,  7  minims ;  and  chloroform,  1 
drachm.    Mix.     It  must  be  observed  that  the 
water  is  perhaps  an  error,  as  it  will  not  mix 
with  the  chloroform,  which  will  be  found  on 
the  bottom  of  the  bottle. 

5206.  Chlorodyne.      Mix    together  i 
fluid  ounce  chloroform,  90  minims  sulphuric 
ether,   8  drops   oil  of   peppermint,   8  drops 
resin  of  Indian  hemp  (cannabis  Indica),  and 
2  drops  capsicum;  shake  the  mixture  occa- 
sionally and  allow  it  to  stand  for  a  few  days. 
Dissolve  16  grains  muriate  of  morphia,  by 
heat,  in  2  drachms  water ;  when  cold,  add  65 
minims  Scheele's  hydrocyanic  acid,  1  fluid 
drachm  perchloric  acid,  and  2  fluid  ounces 
molasses.     Add  this  gradually  to  the  first 
mixture,   and   then  add    sufficient  molasses 
to  make  the  whole  measure  4  fluid  ounces. 
Dose,  30  minims. 

5207.  Chlorodyne.      Mix  together    6 
fluid  drachms  chloroform,  1  fluid  drachm  chlo- 
ric ether,  i  fluid  drachm  tincture  of  cayenne 
pepper,  2  drops  oil  of  peppermint,  8  grains 
muriate  of  morphia,  24  drops  dilute  hydro- 
cyanic acid,  20  drops  perchloric  acid,  1  fluid 
drachm  tincture  of  Indian  hemp,  and  1  fluid 
drachm  molasses.    Dose,  20  drops,  as  a  sopo- 
rific ;  30  drops  to  1  fluid  drachm,  as  an  ano- 
dyne in  cholera    or  violent    paroxysms  of 
pain.     (Cooley.) 

5208.  Eau  M6dicinale  d'Husson.     It 
is  prepared,  according  to  Dr.  "Williams,  from 
the  juice  of  colchicum  flower  with  half  the 
quantity  of  brandy;  mix,  and,  after  standing 
a  few  days,  decant  into  small  bottles.     But  it 
was  more  probably  made  from  the  root,  ai 
prescribed  in  the  followiog  formulae : 

Dry  colchicum,  60  parts;  in  sherry,  125 
parts.  20  drops  for  a  dose.  (Paris  Codex.) 

4  ounces  of  the  fresh  root,  sliced,  macerated 
in  •}  pint  of  proof  spirit.  (  Want.) 

5209.  Bates'  Anodyne  Balsam.     Soap 
liniment,  2  parts ;  tincture  of  opium,  1  part. 

5210.  Delamott's  Golden  Drops.    Mu- 
riato  of  iron,   1   ounce;    spirit  of  sulphuric 
ether,  7  ounces ;  dissolve  and  expose  to  sun- 
shine in  a  closely-stopped  bottle  till  it  become 
divested  of  color. 

5211.  Gregory's    Powder.      Calcinec 
magnesia,  2|  ounces;  powdered  Turkey  rhu- 
barb,  1   ounce ;   powdered  ginger,   %  ounce, 
Mix.     The  above  is  Dr.   Gregory's  formula 
Some    receipts    add    powdered    chamoinile 
Rhubarb,  1  ounce;  ginger,  J  ounce;  powderet 
chamomile,    h  ounce;    magnesia,  2    ounces 
Mix.      Some  druggists  prepare  it  with  the 
heavy  carbonate  of  magnesia,  instead  of  the 
calcined.     (Sec  No.  5414.) 

5212.  Black    Draught.      Infusion    o 
senna,   10  drachms ;  sulphate  of  magnesia, 
drachms;    syrup  of  ginger,   1   drachm;   aro 
matic  spirit  of  ammonia,  20  drops. 


5213.  Standert's  Bed  Mixture.  Car- 
)onate  of  magnesia,  4  drachms;  powdered 
rhubarb,  2  drachms;  tincture  of  rhubarb,  li 
ounces ;  tincture  of  opium,  1  drachm ;  oil  oi 
aniseed,  24  drops ;  essence  of  peppermint,  30 
drops;  water,  li  pints;  mix.  A  popular 

emedy  for  bowel  complaints  in  the  west  of 
England. 

5214.      Graves'     Gout    Preventive. 
Orange  peel,  2 ounces;  rhubarb,  1  ounce;  hiera 

ticra,  2 'ounces;  brandy,  1  quart.  Digest  for 
a  week. 

5215.  Elixir  of  Bromide  of  Sodium. 
Prepare  this  like  elixir  of  bromide  of  potas- 
sium,  substituting  bromide    of  sodium    for 
jromide  of  potassium,  and  omitting  the  color. 

5216.  Bacher's  Tonic  Pills.     Alkaline 
xtract  of  black  hellebore,  2  drachms ;  extract 

of  myrrh,  2  drachms ;  powder  of  holy  this- 
tle, 1  drachm;  mix,  and  divide  into  4-grain 
pills. 

5217.  Dafiy's  Elixir.     This  is  similar 
to  the  compound  tincture  of  senna ;  but  dif- 
"erent  makers  have  their  peculiar  formulae. 
The  following  is  one  of  them.     Avoirdupois 
weight  seems  to  be  intended.     Senna  leaves, 

f  pounds;  jalap,  aniseed,  caraway  seed,  of 
:ach  20  ounces;  rectified  spirit,  18  pints; 
sugar,  5  pounds.  Infuse  the  senna  2  or  3 
times  in  sufficient  boiling  water  to  yield,  when 
strained  with  pressure,  4  gallons  in  the  whole. 
Add  to  this  the  tincture  made  with  jalap  and 
seeds  digested  with  the  spirit  for  a  week. 
Pour  off  the  clear  liquor  and  add  the  sugar 
and  brandy  coloring  if  required. 

5218.  McLean's  Neuralgic  Liniment. 
Mix  together  4  grains  extract  of  belladonna, 
6  fluid  ounces  ammonia  water,  i  fluid  ounce 
oil  of  turpentine,  i  fluid  ounce  olive  oil,  and 
2  fluid  ounces  tincture  of  opium.     Apply  dur- 
ing the  paroxysms. 

5219.  Hayes'  Pile  Liniment.     Melt  1 
pint  lard  to  the  consistence  of  honey ;  stir  in 
briskly  1  ounce  muriatic  acid  until  thoroughly 
incorporated;   and  add   1   ounce   tincture  of 
opium,   2   ounces   oil    of   turpentine,   and  2 
drachms  camphor. 

5220.  Graham's  Neuralgic  Liniment. 
Mix  together  1  fluid  ounce  chloroform,  2  fluid 
drachms  oil  of  cajcput,  In  ounces  camphor,  12 
grains  veratrine,  and  1£  fluid  ounces  tincture  of 
aconite  root. 

5221.  Mexican  Mustang  Liniment. 
Take  2  fluid  ounces  petroleum,  1  fluid  ounce 
ammonia  water,  and  1  fluid  drachm  brandy. 
Mix. 

5222.  Heyle's   Horse    Embrocation. 
Mix  together  1  ounce  oil  of  spike,  1  ounce 
ammonia  water,  2  ounces  oil  of  camphor,  i 
ounce   oil  of  origanum,  i  ounce  tincture  of 
opium,  1  ounce  spirits  of  turpentine,  and  2 
ounces  olive  oil. 

5223.  Barrell's  Indian  Liniment.    Al- 
cohol, 1  quart ;  tincture  of  capsicum,  1  ounce ; 
oils  of  origanum,  sassafras,  pennyroyal,  hem-* 
lock,  of  each  A  ounce,  and  mix. 

5224.  Allen's  Nerve  and  Bone  Lini- 
ment.    Take  oil  of  origanum,   oil  of  rose- 
mary, oil  of  amber,  oil  of  hemlock,  of  each  4 
ounces;     spirits    of    turpentine,    2    gallons; 
linseed   oil,  3   gallons.     Mix,  and  color  with 
anchusa  root. 

5225.  Glycerine    Jelly.     Used    as    an 
application  to  chaps  and  roughened  parts  of 


PATENT   AND    PROPRIETARY   MEDICINES. 


465 


the  skin.  It  may  be  made  of  pare  glycerine 
thickened  with  tragacanth  powder  and  scented 
with  otto  of  roses.  An  imitation  may  be  pre- 
pared in  the  folio  wing  manner:  Mix  \  drachm 
good  soft  soap  intimately  with  2  drachms 
purified  honey ;  gradually  add  5  ounces  pale 
olive  oil,  stirring  without  intermission  until 
all  is  taken  up.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to 
mix  in  the  oil  too  fast.  Finally  perfume  as 
desired. 

5226.  Glycerine  Paste.    A  stiff  glutin- 
ous compound,  recommended  by  Dr.  Tilt  as  a 
basis  for  plaster.    It  is  made  by  boiling  100 
or  150  grains  common  starch  in  1  ounce  of 
glycerine.    This  is  similar  to  Schacht's  plasma. 
(See  No.  5009.) 

5227.  King's    Cordial.     Dissolve  in   k 
pint  of  proof  spirits,  Ik  drachms  each  of  the 
oils  of  caraway  and  cinnamon;    extract  the 
stones  from  3  pounds  of  black  cherries,  and 
mash  the  fruit  in  a  pan;   grate  1  nutmeg; 
take  2  quarts   of  Madeira  wine,  2  quarts  of 
brandy,  and  1  gallon  of  syrup;  mix  all  to- 
gether, and  color  with  red  saunders  wood. 

5228.  Squire's  Elixir.    Opium,  1  ounce; 
camphor.  1  ounce;   spirit  of  aniseed  (com- 
pound), 4   pints ;   tincture  of  serpentaria,    1 
pint;    water,   4   pints;   tincture  of  ginger,  i 
ounce.    Some  receipts  add  a  little  aurum  mus- 
ivum. 

5229.  Ward's  Essence  for  the  Head- 
ache.    Spirit  of  wine,  2  pounds ;  roche  alum 
in  fine  powder,  2  ounces ;  camphor,  4  ounces ; 
essence  of  lemon,  i  ounce;   strong  water  of 
ammonia,   4  ounces;   stop  the  bottle  close, 
and  shake  it  daily  for  3  or  4  days. 

5230.  Henry's  Magnesia.     A  solution 
of  Epsom  salts  is  precipitated  by  one  of  car- 
bonate of  potash  in  the  cold ;  the  precipitate 
is  well  washed,  rose  water  being  used  for  the 
last  washing;  it  is  then  made  up  while  drying 
into  large  or  small  cubes. 

5231.  Hill's  Balsam  of  Honey.    Bal- 
sam of  tolu,  2  ounces;   styrax,  2  drachms; 
opium,  \  drachm;  honey,  8  ounces;  spirit  of 
wine,  32  fluid  ounces. 

5232.  Battley's  Senna  Powder.   Senna 
leaves  heated  until  they  become  light  in  color, 
reduced  to  powder,  and  mixed  with  some  fine- 
ly powdered  charcoal. 

5233.  Munro's  Cough    Medicine. 
drachms  paregoric  with  2  drachms  sulphuric 
ether    and   2    drachms  of   tincture  of   tolu. 
Dose,  1  tea-spoonful  in  some  warm  water. 

5234.  Griffin's  Tincture  for  Coughs. 
Oil  of  caraway  and  anise,  each  2  drachms; 
saffron,     |    ounce;    benzole    acid,   f   ounce; 
opium,  5  drachms ;  camphor,  4  ounce ;  spirit, 
6  ounces;  honey,  6  ounces.     When  mixed  and 
dissolved,  color  with  burnt  sugar. 

5235.  Derbyshire's  Patent  Embroca- 
tion for  Preventing  Sea-Sickness.    Boil 
2  ounces  opium,  2  drachms  extract  of  hen- 
bane, 10  grains  mace,  and  2  ounces  mottled 
soap,  in  3  pints  of  water  for  \  hour.     "When 
'cold,    add   1   quart   of  rectified  spirit  and  3 
drachms  spirit  of  ammonia. 

5236.  Papier  Fayard  et  Blayn.    This 

g reparation  is  now  made  officinal  in  the  Paris 
odex,  under  the  name  of  Papier  (lit  Chimique. 
Heat  200  parts  olive  oil  in  a  capacious  dish 
over  an  open  fire,  until  vapors  begin  to  be 
given  off.  Then  add  gradually,  with  stirring, 
100  parts  finely  powdered  minium  (red  lead). 


As  soon  as  the  first  effervescence  is  over, 
;ontinue  to  stir  and  heat  the  mixture  until  it 
aegins  again  to  effervesce.  Then  remove 
?rom  the  fire  and  stir  rapidly,  to  remove  the 
white  scum  on  the  surface,  and  at  once  add 
6  parts  white  wax.  This  is  applied  to  paper 
or  muslin  with  a  sponge  or  brush. 

Before  spreading  on  the  paper  or  muslin,  it 
must  have  been  prepared  a  week  earlier  with 
the  following  varnish,  to  make  it  impenetra- 
ble :  olive  oU,  100  parts,  and  garlic,  10  parts, 
are  heated  together  over  the  open  fire  until 
the  moisture  of  the  latter  is  dispelled  and 
they  turn  a  brown  color,  after  which  they  are 
strained.  To  this  mixture  are  added  80  parts 
oil  of  turpentine,  40  parts  subcarbonate  of 
iron,  and  15  parts  carbonate  of  lead  (white 
lead)  in  oil.  It  is  also  laid  on  with  a  brush 
or  sponge. 

5237.  Papier  Fayard.   Gout  paper.  Eu- 
phorbium,  3  drachms ;  cantharides,  6  drachms; 
powdered  and  digested  with  4  ounces  alcohol; 
and  3  drachms  Venice  turpentine  added  to 
the  strained  tincture.     Fine  paper  is  dipped 
into  it  and  dried  in  the  air.     Mohr  directs  4 
drachms  cantharides  and  1  drachm  euphor- 
bium  to  be  digested  in  5  ounces  of  highly 
rectified    spirit;    filter,  and  add    1^    ounces 
Venice  turpentine  previously  liquefied  with  2 
ounces  resin.    To  be  spread  on  the   paper 
while  warm. 

5238.  Papier  Epispastique  de  V6e. 
This  is  of  three  strengths,  distinguished  by 
the  colors  white,  green,  and  red.     The  com- 
position is  made  by  boiling  cantharides  for  an 
hour  with  water,  and  lard,  green  ointment,  or 
lard  colored  with  alkanet ;  adding  white  wax 
to  the  strained  fats,  and  spreading  on  paper, 
silk,  or  linen.    No.  1  is  made  with  10  ounces 
cantharides  to  4  pounds  of  lard ;  No.  2  of  1 
pound  flies  to  8  pounds  of  green  ointment ; 
and    No.   3  of    1J   pounds  to  8  pounds   of 
colored  lard ;  and  to  each  are  added  2  pounds 
of  white  wax. 

5239.  Bateman's     Itch     Ointment. 
Carbonate  of  potassa,  i  ounce ;  red  sulphuret 
of  mercury,  1  drachm ;  hog's  lard  and  flowers 
of  sulphur,   each    11   ounces;    bergamot,  30 
drops ;  rose  water,  1  ounce.     Mix  the  potassa 
and  powders  with  a  little  of  the  lard,  and  rub 
them  well  together ;  then  add  the  remainder 
of  the  lard,  previously  softened  by  heat,  after- 
wards add  the  rose  water,  gently  warmed. 
Stir  till  cold. 

5240.  Smith's  Itch  Ointment.    Flow- 
ers of  sulphur,  2  ounces  ;  sulphate  of  zinc,  2 
drachms ;    powdered  hellebore,   4   drachms ; 
soft  soap,  4  ounces ;  lard,  8  ounces.     Mix. 

5241.  Wiegand's  Tetter   Ointment. 
Powder  and  mix  2  drachms  submuriate  of 
mercury  (calomel)  with  1  drachm  acetate  of 
lead,  and  k  drachm  red  precipitate.    Make  42 
grains  of  the  above  powder  into  an  ointment 
with  2  drachms  of  lard  or  simple  cerate. 

5242.  Wiegand's  Tetter  Salve.    Take 
8  grains  of  the  powder  in  the  last  receipt, 
mix  with  20  drops  glycerine,  5  grains  pow- 
dered camphor,  \  ounce  simple  cerate,  and  2 
drops  oil  of  lemon. 

5243.  Bailey's  Itch  Ointment.    Sweet 
oil,  1  pound ;  suet,  1  pound ;  root  .alkanet,  2 
ounces.    Melt  and  macerate  until  sufficiently 
colored,  then  add  powdered  nitre,. 3  ounces; 
powdered  alum,  3  ounces ;  powdered  sulphate 


466 


PATENT  AND    PROPRIETARY   MEDICINES. 


of  zinc,  3  ounces;  powdered  vermilion,  to 
color;  oil  of  aniseed,  oil  of  spike,  and  oil  of 
origanum  to  perfume. 

5244.  Beddoe's  Pills,  for  gravel,   &c. 
Carbonate   of   soda,   dried   without    heat,    1 
drachm ;  soap,  4  scruples ;  oil  of  juniper,  10 
drops ;  syrup  of  ginger,  sufficient  quantity  for 
30  pills. 

5245.  Mathieu's  Vermifuge.    Tin  fil- 
ings, 1  ounce ;  fern  root,  £  ounce ;  worm-seed, 
i  ounce;  resinous  extract  of  jalap,  1  drachm; 
sulphate  of  potassa.  1  drachm ;  honey  to  form 
an  electuary.    A  tea-spoonful  every  3  hours 
for  2  days;    then  substitute  the  following: 
jalap,  2  scruples ;  sulphate  of  potassa,  2  scru- 
ples;   scammony,   1   scruple;    gamboge,    10 
grains;  made  into  an  electuary  with  honey, 
and  given  in  the  same  dose. 

5246.  Swaim's  Vermifuge.     "Worm- 
seed,  2  ounces;  valerian,  rhubarb,  pink-root, 
white  agaric,  of  each  H  ounces ;  boil  in  suffi- 
cient water  to  yield  3  quarts  of  decoction, 
and  add  to  it  30  drops  oil  of  tansy,  and  45 
drops  oil  of  cloves,  dissolved  in  a  quart  of 
rectified  spirits.    Dose,   1    table-spoonful  at 
night. 

5247.  Calvetti's    Manna  Lemonade. 
Dissolve  1  ounce  pure  mannite  in  10  ounces 
boiling  water,  and  add  sufficient  lemon  juice 
to  flavor.    To  be  drunk  cold  or  iced.    Man- 
nite is  a  peculiar  saccharine  principle  obtained 
in  crystalline  form  from  manna. 

5248.  Bond's  Compound  Mixture  ol 
Iron.     Take  1J  drachms  gum  myrrh  in  tears, 
6  drops  oil  of  wiutergreen,  2  drops  oil  of  nut- 
meg, 2  scruples  carbonate  of  potash,  1  ounce 
loaf  sugar,  £  drachm  sulphate  of  iron,  and  7 
ounces  distilled  water.     Rub  down  the  myrrh 
with  the  oils,  add  gradually  a  portion  of  the 
water,  making  a  milk  of  myrrh ;  then  add  the 
potash  and  sugar.    Dissolve  the  iron  in  the 
remainder  of  the  water,  and  mix  the  two  mix- 
tures by  trituration.    To  be  bottled  and  wel" 
corked  directly. 

5249.  Mialhe's  Syrup  for  Hoarseness. 
Take  15  parts  syrup  of  gum-arabic,  5  parts 
syrup  of  tolu,  5  parts  maiden-hair,   1  pan 
nitrate  of  potassa,  and  1  part  cherry-laure' 
water.    Dose,  a  table-spoonful  in  a  cup  o 
sweet  balm  tea,  in  short  draughts. 

5250.  Dewees'  Carminative.    Take  \ 
drachm    carbonate    of  magnesia,   1  drachm 
loaf  sugar,  GO  drops  tincture  of  assafsetida,  20 
drops  tincture  of  opium,  and  1  fluid  ounce 
water.     Dissolve  the  sugar  in  half  the  water 
add  this  to  the  tinctures  previously  mixed  ii 
the  bottle.     Rub  the  magnesia  with  the  re 
mainder  of  the  water ;  then  mix  together  th< 
two  preparations.     Direct  the  mixture  to  b< 
shaken  before  used. 

5251.  Golden  Tincture.    Take  3  part: 
sulphuric  ether,  2  parts  acetated  tincture  o 
opium,  and  1  part  compound  spirit  of  lav 
endcr. 

5252.  Golden    Tincture.      Sulphuri 
ether,  1  ounce;  laudanum,  1  ounce;  chloro 
form,  i  ounce ;  alcohol,  1  ounce.    Mix.    Thi 
preparation  is  extensively  used  by  the  German 
physicians.     Dose,  from  3  to  30  drops,  accord 
ing  to  circumstances.     It  makes  an  excellen 
local  application  in  neuralgia  and  other  pain 
ful  affections. 

5253.  Napoleon's     Pectoral     Pills 
Ipecacuanha,   30    grains  j    powdered    squills 


and  ammoniac,  of  each  40  grains;  mucilage 
o  mix ;  divide  into  24  pills.  It  is  said  that 
he  above  was  a  favorite  remedy  with  the  first 
Smperor  of  Prance  for  difficulty  of  breathing, 
Bronchitis,  and  various  affections  of  the 
rgans  of  respiration.  Dose,  2  pills  night  and 
morning. 

5254.  Gedding's  Piles  Ointment. 
Carbonate  of  lead,  4  drachms ;  sulphate  of 
morphia,  15  grains;  stramonium  ointment,  1 
ounce ;  olive  oil,  sufficient  to  make  into  an 
ointment. 

5255.  Ditchett's  Remedy  for  Piles. 
permaceti   ointment,   8    ounces;    powdered 
alls,  1  ounce;  powdered  opium,  1  drachm; 

solution  of  diacetate  of  lead,  1£  ounces.     Mix 
well. 

5256.  Brown's    Bronchial    Troches. 
Take  1  pound  pulverized  extract  of  liquorice, 
LJ  pounds  pulverized  sugar,  4  ounces  pulver- 
zed  cubebs,  4  ounces  pulverized  gum-arabic, 

and  1   ounce  pulverized  extract  of  conium 
(hemlock).    Mix. 

5257.  Roche's  Embrocation,  or 
Whooping  Cough  Liniment.  Olive  oil, 
8  ounces ;  oil  of  amber,  4  ounces ;  oil  of 
cloves,  a  sufficient  quantity  to  give  it  a  strong 
scent.  Mix.  Rubbed  on  the  chest  it  stimu- 
lates the  skin ;  it  is  useful  in  general  for  the 
coughs  of  children ;  in  whooping-cough,  how- 
ever, it  ought  not  to  be  used  for  the  first  ten 
days  of  the  disease.  This  liniment  is  under- 
stood to  be  the  same  as  the  celebrated  embro- 
cation of  Roche. 

5258.  Dupuytren's  Pills.  Take  120 
grains  powdered  guaiacum,  4  grains  corrosive 
chloride  of  mercury  (corrosive  sublimate), 
and  5  grains  powdered  opium ;  make  into  40 
pills. 

5259.  Anodyne  Necklaces.  Beads 
formed  of  the  root  of  henbane,  and  used  as 
necklaces,  to  allay  the  pain  of  teething. 

5260.  Digestive,  or  Live-long  Candy. 
Powdered  rhubarb,  60  grains ;  heavy  magne- 
sia, 1  ounce ;  bicarbonate  of  soda,  1  drachm ; 
finely-powdered  ginger,  20  grains ;  cinnamon 
powder,  15  grains;  powdered  white  sugar,  2 
ounces ;    mucilago  of   tragacanth,    sufficient 
quantity ;    beat    together    and    divide    into 
square,  flat  cakes  of  20  grains  each. 

5261.  Cholagogue.    Quinine,  20  grains ; 
Peruvian  bark,  1  ounce ;  rhubarb,  1  ounce ; 
sulphuric  acid,  15  or  20  drops,  or  1  scruple 
tartaric  acid;   brandy,   1   gill,  and  water  to 
make  1  pint.     Dose,  2  spoonfuls  every  2  hours 
in  absence  of  fever. 

5262.  Malone's  Mixture  for  a  Cough 
or  Cold.     Take  1  tea-cupful  of  flaxseed,  soak 
all  night.    In  the  morning  put  in  a  kettle  2 
quarts  water,  1  handful  of  liquorice  root  (split 
up),  i  pound  good  raisins  (cut  in  half).     Boil 
them  until  the  strength  is  thorough^  ex- 
tracted,  then  add  the  flaxseed,   which    has 
been  previously  soaked.    Let  all  boil  about 
half  an  hour  more,  watching  and   stirring, 
that  the  mixture  may  not  burn.     Then  strain 
and  add  lemon-juice  and  sugar  to  taste.  Take 
any  quantity,  cold,  through  the  day,  and  half 
a  thimbleful,  warm,  at  night.    The  above  is  a 
most  excellent  receipt. 

5263.  Chapman's  Copaiba  Mixture. 
Make  a  mixture  of  £  ounce  copaiba,  £  fluid 
ounce  sweet  spirits  of  nitre,  2  drachms  pow- 
dered acacia,  1  drachm  sugar,  4  fluid  ounces 


PATENT   AND    PROPRIETARY  MEDICINES. 


467 


distilled  water,  2  fluid  drachms  compound 
spirit  of  lavender,  and  1  fluid  drachm  tincture 
of  opium.  Dose,  a  table-spoonful  3  times  a 
day.  A  specific  remedy  for  gonorrhoea. 

5264.  Morton's    Copaiba    Mixture. 
Take  i  ounce  each  copaiba  and  powdered  cu- 
bebs,  2  drachms  each  acacia  and  sugar,  7  fluid 
ounces  water,  and  -j-  fluid  ounce  camphorated 
tincture  of  opium.     Make  into  a  mixture. 
Dose,  a  table-spoonful  every  3  hours.    An 
efficacious  remedy  for  obstinate  gonorrhoea. 

5265.  Jackson's    Pectoral    Syrup. 
Macerate    1    drachm    sassafras    pith  and    1 
ounce  acacia  in  1  pint  water  for  12  hours; 
add  21  ounces  sugar,  dissolve  the  sugar  in  it 
without  heat,  filter,  and  then  add  8  grains 
muriate  of  morphia.      Dose,  1   tea-spoonful 
every  3  hours. 

5266.  Ayer's  Wild  Cherry  Expecto- 
rant.    Mix  together  3  grains  acetate  of  mor- 
phia, 2  fluid  drachms  tincture  of  blood-root, 
3  fluid  drachms  each  antimonial  wine  and 
ipecacuanha  wine,  and  3  fluid  ounces  syrup 
of  wild  cherry  bark.     Dose,  1  tea-spoonful  in 
catarrh,  bronchitis,  and  influenza. 

5267.  Ayer's  Cherry  Pectoral.     The 
following  receipt  is  said  to  be  somewhat  near 
to,  if  not  exactly  identical  with  the  receipt  after 
which  this  well  known  article  is  compounded : 
Take  of  syrup  of  wild  cherry,  6  drachms ; 
syrup    of   squills,    3    drachms;    tincture    of 
blood-root,  2  drachms;  sweet  spirits  of  nitre, 
2    drachms ;    antimonial  wine,   3    drachms ; 
wine    of   ipecacuanha,    3    drachms ;    simple 
syrup,    1J   ounces;   acetate  of   morphine,   2 
grains.    Mix,  and  add  oil  of  bitter  almonds, 
2  drops ;  dissolved  in  alcohol,  1  drachm. 

5268.  Donovan's  Mixture  of  Cyanide 
of  Potassium.    Mix  together  1  grain  cya- 
nide of  potassium,  3j  fluid  ounces  distilled 
water,  and  £  fluid  ounce  lemon  syrup.     Dose, 
a  table-spoonful  every  2  hours.    Useful  to 
check  vomiting,   and  allay  cough ;   and,   in 
much  smaller  doses,  for  whooping  cough  in 
children. 

5269.  Renault's  Pectoral  Paste. 
Flowers  of  mallow,  flowers  of  cudweed, 
flowers  of  coltsfoot,  and  flowers  of  red 
P°PP.V>  1  ounce  of  each ;  boil  in  a  quart 
of  water,  strain,  then  add  30  ounces  of  gum- 
arabic,  20  ounces  of  white  sugar,  and  2 
drachms  tincture  of  tolu ;  dissolve,  strain, 
and  evaporate  to  the  proper  consistence. 

5270.  Dennis*  Patent  Anti-spasmod- 
ic Tincture.  Take  1  ounce  each  tincture 
of  scullcap,  valerian,  myrrh,  and  capsicum; 
2  ounces  tincture  of  lobelia;  a  little  soda; 
and  sufficient  water. 

5271.  Goitre  Jelly.  Better  known, 
perhaps,  under  the  French  name  GcUe  pour 
le  Goitre.  Dissolve  1  ounce  white  soap  in  2£ 
ounces  of  proof  spirit  by  a  gentle  heat ;  and 
add  to  it,  while  still  warm,  a  warm  solution  of 
5  drachms  iodido  of  potassium  in  2£  ounces 
proof  spirit.  A  few  drops  of  any  fragrant 
and  essential  oil  may  be  added. 

5272.  Mettauer's  Aperient  Solution. 
Take  of  socotrino  aloes,  2i  ounces;  super- 
carbonate  of  soda,  6  drachms;  water,  4  pints; 
compound  spirits  of  lavender,  2  ounces. 
After  digesting  14  days,  the  clear  liquor 
may  be  either  decanted  or  allowed  to  re- 
main. Age  is  said  to  improve  both  the  pow- 
ers and  taste  of  the  solution.  The  common 


dose  is  1  drachm,  which  may  be  increased,  if 
necessary,  to  an  ounce.  It  is  recommended  as 
a  valuable  remedy  in  most  forms  of  constipa- 
tion, taken  soon  after  meals. 

5273.  Coxe's  Hive   Syrup.      Put  1 
ounce  each  squills  and  Seneca  snake-root  into 
1  pint  water ;  boil  down  to  one-half  and  strain. 
Then  add  ^  pound  clarified  honey  containing 
12  grains  tartrate  of  antimony.      Dose  for  a 
child,  10  drops  to  1  tea-spoonful,  according  to 
age.     An  excellent  remedy  for  croup. 

5274.  Bateman's     Sulphur    "Wash. 
Break  1  ounce  sulphur,  and  pour  over  it  1 
quart  of  boiling  water;  allow  it  to  infuse  for 
12  or  14  hours,  and  apply  it  to  the  face  2 
or  3  times  a  day,  for  a  few  weeks.      This  ap- 
plication is  equally  useful  in  removing  that 
roughness  of  the  skin  which  generally  suc- 
ceeds pimples. 

5275.  Allcock's      Porous    Plaster. 
The  only  difference  between  this  plaster  and 
ordinary  adhesive  plasters  is,  that  rubber  is 
used  in  the  place  of  lead  plaster.     It  is  a  good 
addition,   and   very  generally  recognized  by 
makers  of  adhesive  plasters.      Take  rubber,  1 
pound ;  pitch,  i  pound ;  thus,  i  poimd  ;  and 
capsicum,  30  grains.     The  plaster,  as  offered 
for  sale,  is  spread  upon  muslin  or  linen,  in 
which  small  holes  have  been  punched  out, 
allowing  vent  for  perspiration,  and  affording 
increased  flexibility.     These  plasters  adhere 
very  firmly,  frequently  requiring  the  applica- 
tion  of  heat  (by  means  of  a  hot    towel  or 
warm  flat-iron),  for  their  removal.     The  skin 
may  be  cleansed  after  the  removal  of  tho 
plaster,  by  rubbing  with  sweet  oil,  until  the 
remains  of  the  plaster  are  dissolved ;  wiping 
it  off,  and  washing  with  warm  water  and  soap. 

5276.  Poor   Man's    Plaster.       Take 
bees'- wax,   1   ounce ;  tar,  3  ounces ;  resin,  3 
ounces.     To  be  melted  together  and  spread 
on  paper  or  muslin. 

5277.  Universal  Plaster.      A  plaster 
is  officinal  in  several  of  the  European  Phar- 
macopeias, under  different  names,  which  ap- 
pears to  be  identical  with  Keyser's  Universal 
Plaster,   which   is  sold  extensively  in  this 
country  as  a  nostrum.      The  following  is  the 
formula  of  the  Prussian  Pharmacopoeia:  Take 
of  red-lead,  in  ve^  fine  powder,  8  ounces ; 
olive  oil,  16  ounces.     Boil  them  in  a  proper 
vessel  with  constant  agitation  until  the  whole 
has  assumed  a    blackish-brown    color,  then 
add  yellow    wax,   4  ounces ;   and  after  this 
has  been  melted    and    well    mixed,    add    2 
drachms  camphor,  previously  dissolved  in  a 
little    olive  oil.      Pour  it   out  into  suitable 
boxes,  or  into  paper  capsules,  to  be  cut  into 
square  cakes  when  cold. 

5278.  Devil  Plaster.     Cases  of  severe 
wounds  are  said  to  have  healed  without  sup- 
puration after  17  or  more  days  by  the  use  of 
this  plaster.      It  has  also  been  successfully 
applied  to  fractures  and  tumors.    Take  15 
drachms  black  pitch,  15  drachms  dry  resin, 
2h  drachms  dried  earth-worms  in  powder,  8 
drachms  essential    oil  of  turpentine,    and   1 
scruple  crude  alum.    Mix  well.    This  plaster 
was  much  used  by  an  old  surgeon  of  Morello, 
and  by  his  sons,  for  the  cure  of  wounds  with- 
out the  loss  of  substance.   The  composition, 
which  they  kept  secret,  is  now  published  to 
the  world  by  M.  Escorihuela.    He  obtained 
the  secret  from  one  of  the  heirs. 


468 


PATENT  AND    PROPRIETARY  MEDICINES. 


5279.  "Wallace's  Pills.     Take  socotrine 
aloes,   scammony,  arid  soap,    all  in  powder, 
blue  mass  and  compound  extract  of  colocynth, 
1  scruple  each,  to  make  20  pills. 

5280.  Canada  Liniment.     Take  water 
of  ammonia,  olive  oil,  oil  of  turpentine,  and 
alcohol,  of  each  1  ounce ;  oil  of  peppermint,  i 
ounce.    Mix. 

5281.  St.    John   Long's    Liniment. 
"White  and  yolk  of  1  egg;  oil  of  turpentine,  6 
ounces ;  acetic  acid,  1  ounce ;   oil  of  lemon, 
12  drops ;  and  rose-water,  5  ounces.    Mix. 

5282.  Brodie's  Liniment.    Take  of  sul- 
phuric acid,  1  drachm;   olive  oil  and  oil  of 
turpentine,  of  each  1  ounce.    Add  the  acid 
gradually  to  the  olive  oil,  stirring  it  in  a  mor- 
tar ;  when  cool,  add  the  oil  of  turpentine  and 
mix. 

5283.  Good  Old  Samaritan  Liniment. 
Mix  together  2  gallons  alcohol,  12  ounces  oil 
origanum,  4  ounces  oil  hemlock,  and  2  oun- 
ces each  of  oil  of  cedar,  balsam  of  fir,  spear- 
mint,  balsam  of  life  (see  No.   5112),  oil  of 
sassafras,  oil  of  wintergreen,  spirits  of  turpen- 
tine, and  sulphuric  ether.     Mix. 

5284.  Physic's  Issue  Ointment. 
Powdered  cantharides,  ^  ounce ;  rose  water,  2 
fluid  ounces;  tartar  emetic,  15  grains.  Apply 
heat  and  evaporate  the  rose-water  one-half; 
strain,  and  add  olive  oil,  3  ounces;  white  wax, 
li  ounces;  spermaceti,  1  ounce.  Mix,  and 
apply  a  gentfo  heat  until  all  the  water  has 
been  driven  off.  When  the  manipulations 
have  been  conducted  with  care,  the  cerate  is 
light  in  color. 

5285.  Beach's  Black  Plaster  or  Heal- 
ing Salve.     Take  of  olive  oil,   3  quarts; 
common  resin,  3  ounces;  bees'-wax,  3  ounces. 
Melt  these  articles  together,  and  raise  the  oil 
almost  to  boiling  heat;  then  gradually  add  of 
pulverized  red  lead  2h  pounds,  if  in  the  sum- 
mer; if  in  the  winter,  J  pound  less.    In  a 
short  time  after  the  lead  is  taken  up  by  the 
oil,  and  the  mixture  becomes  brown  or  a  shi- 
ning black,  remove  from  the  fire,  and,  when 
nearly  cold,  add  i  ounce  pulverized  camphor. 

5286.  M'KenzLe's  Ointment.    Powder- 
ed sulphate  of  zinc,  4  ounces;  liquid  storax,  1 
ounce;  melted  lard,  16  ounces.    Mix  by  means 
of  heat  and  triturate  over  a  water-bath  for 
about  an  hour.    A  useful  application  for  tetter 
and  scald-head.    Apply  night  and  morning, 
first  washing  the  part  with  Castile  soap  and 
warm  water. 

5287.  Conklin's  Salve.     Take  resin,  12 
ounces ;  bees'-wax,  mutton  suet,  and  tallow, 
of  each  1  ounce.     Melt  together,  strain  the 
mixture  through  muslin,  and  work  into  rolls 
in  a  bath  of  cold  water. 

5288.  Newell's  Compound  Tar  Oint- 
ment.    Lard  and  mutton  suet,  of  each  12 
ounces;  tar,  6  ounces;  bees'-wax,  3  ounces; 
powdered  black  hellebore,  4  drachms;  melt 
and  strain,  then  add  flowers  of  sulphur,  4 
ounces.    Used  for  tetters,  salt  rheum,  itch,  <fcc. 

5289.  Turner's  Cerate.     Take  of  sweet 
oil,  2  pounds ;  yellow  wax,  carbonate  of  zinc, 
powdered,  of  each  1  pound.    Mix  at  a  low 
heat. 

5290.  Allison's  Tobacco  Ointment  for 
Gathered  Breasts.     Tobacco  leaves  (fresh 
and  sliced'),  10  ounces ;  dilute  acetic  acid,  4 
pints;  basilicon  ointment  (see  No.  4964),  13 
ounces.    Boil  the  tobacco  in  the  acid,  strain 


and  evaporate  the  decoction  over  a  warm  bath 
to  4  fluid  ounces;  add  this  to  the  basilicon 
ointment,  heated,  and  stir  the  whole  together 
until  cold.  Apply  spread  upon  linen  or  soft 
kid  skin. 

5291 .  Allison's  Acetated  Ointment  of 
Tobacco.     Tobacco  leaves,  sliced,  10  ounces ; 
cider  vinegar  (or  officinal  dilute  acetic  acid),  4 
pints;   basilicon  ointment  (see  No.  4964),  13 
ounces.     Boil  the  tobacco  in  vinegar  to  1  pint, 
strain,  reduce  in  a  water-bath  to  6  fluid  oun- 
ces, and  add  this  fluid  extract  to  the  melted 
ointment,  stirring  constantly  till  it  is  cool. 
A  fine  remedy  for  gathered  breasts. 

5292.  Parrish's  Compound  Ointment 
of  Tobacco.     Basilicon  ointment  (see  No. 
4964),  13  ounces  troy ;  powdered  camphor,  29 
drachms;   extract  of  belladonna,  2  ounces; 
fluid  extract  of  tobacco  (made  as  in  the  above 
formula),  6  ounces.    Dissolve  the  extract  of 
belladonna  in  the  fluid  extract  of  tobacco  and 
add  to  the  melted  ointment,  in  which^  the 
camphor  should  be  previously  dissolved.    Stir 
constantly  till  cool.    Dr.  Parrish  has  stated, 
in  the  New  Jersey  Medical  Keporter,  that  he 
uses  this  ointment  in  nearly  every  case  of 
mammary  abscess,  with  entire  satisfaction. 

5293.  Mege's  Rheumatic  Ointment. 
Take  160  parts  lard,  6  parts  each  of  the  ex- 
tracts of  opium,  belladonna,  and  cinchona,  7 
parts  ammonia  water. 

5294.  Mitchell's  Ointment  of  Three. 
Mix  together  equal  parts   of  tar  ointment, 
sulphur  ointment,  and  red  oxide  of  mercury 
ointment. 

5295.  Berthold's  Chilblain  Wash,  Boil 
for  15  minutes  1J  ounces  bruised  nut-galls  in 
i  pint  water,  and  strain.     Apply  to  the  chil- 
blains 2  or  3  times  a  day.     Tannic  acid  dis- 
solved in  glycerine  has  a  very  similar  effect, 
but  in  a  neater  form  for  application. 

5296.  Lapis  Divinus.   This  preparation, 
called  also  cuprum  aluminatum,  is  the  picrre 
divine  of  the  French  codex.     It  is  made  by 
mixing  in  powder,  3  ounces  each  of  sulphate 
of  copper,  nitrate  of  potassa,  and  alum ;  heat- 
ing the  mixture  in  a  crucible  so  as  to  produce 
watery  fusion;  then  mixing  in  1  drachm  pow- 
dered camphor ;  and  finally  pouring  out  the 
whole  on  an  oiled  stone  to  congeal.    The  mass, 
when  cold,  is  broken  into  pieces,  and  kept  in 
a  well-stopped  bottle.     "WTien  this  preparation 
is  used  as  an  eye  lotion,  a  filtered  solution  is 
made,  of  the  average  strength  of  30  grains  to 
a  pint  of  water. 

5297.  Lapis    Miraculosus.      Fuse  to- 
gether sulphate  of  copper,  3  parts;  sulphate 
of  iron,  6  parts;  verdigris  and  alum,  of  each  1 
part;  sal-ammoniac,  i  part.     It  is  used  for  ul- 
cers only. 

5298.  Biett's  Solution.     This  is  a  solu- 

i  tion  of  1  grain  of  arseniate  (not  arseuite)  of 
ammonia  in  1  troy  ounce  of  water.  It  is  not 
as  safe  a  preparation  as  either  Fowler's  or 

!  Pearson's  solution,  owing  to  the  ready  decora- 

'  position  of  the  ammonia  salt. 

5299.  Pearson's  Arsenical  Solution. 
This  is  an  aqueous  solution  of  arsenite  of  soda, 

;  containing  1  grain  of  the  salt  in  a  fluid 
!  ounce. 

5300.  Sampson's   New   York   Pills. 
The  li  grain  pills  consist  of  powdered  coca, 
25;  extract  of  coca,  30;  powdered  iron,  35 
parts. 


PATENT  AND    PEOPEIETAET   MEDICINES. 


469 


5301.  Oil  of  Stone.     Take  crude  Amer- 1 
lean   petroleum,   and    Barbadoes  petroleum, 
of  each  2  pints ;  oil  of  turpentine,  6  pints. 

5302.  Chelsea  Pensioner.    Take  pow- 
dered rhubarb,  2  drachms ;  creain  of  tartar,  1 
ounce ;  guaiacum,  1  drachm ;  sulphur,  2  oun- 
ces ;  1  nutmeg  grated  fine ;  clarified  honey, 
16  ounces.    Mix.    Dose,  2  tea-spoonfuls  night 
and  morning.    A  very  good  remedy  for  chronic 
rheumatism. 

5303.  Indian  Cathartic  Pills.    Keduce 
to  a  fine  powder,  1   ounce  each  aloes  and 
gamboge ;  J  ounce  each  mandrake,  blood-root, 
and   myrrh;    1£  drachms   camphor  {see  No. 
4358)   and   cayenne ;   with  4   ounces   ginger. 
Mix  thoroughly  and  make  into  ordinary-sized 
pills  with  thick  mucilage.     Dose,  2  to  4  pills. 

5304.  Turlington's  Balsam    is    much 
like  the  compound  tincture  of  benzoin  of  the 
Pharmacopoeia  of  the  TJ.  S.,  though  it  is  some- 
what more  complicated.     To   make  it,  take 
benzoin,  12  ounces;  liquid  storax,  4  ounces; 
balsam  of  Peru,  2  ounces ;  myrrh  and  aloes, 
each  1  ounce ;  balsam  of  tolu  and  extract  of 
liquorice,    each  4    ounces ;    angelica  root,    J 
ounce ;  alcohol,  8  pints.     Digest  for  10  days, 
and  strain. 

5305.  Thibault's  Balsam.  Myrrh, 
aloes,  and  dragon's  blood,  of  each  1  drachm ; 
flowers  of  Samt  John's  wort,  1  handful; 
spirit  of  wine,  |  pint;  Canada  balsam,  1 
ounce.  Digest  the  flowers  in  the  spirit  for  3 
days,  then  express  the  liquor  and  dissolve  the 
other  ingredients  therein.  To  heal  cuts  and 
wounds,  and  to  sto^  bleeding.  Internally 
diuretic,  in  doses  of  1  to  2  tea-spoonfuls; 
given  in  gonorrhoea. 

5306.  Locatelle's     Balsam.      Yellow 
resin,  olive  oil,  and  Venice  turpentine,  of  each 
1  pound ;  shavings  of  red  saunders  wood,  1 
ounce.      Boil  to  the   consistence  of  a  thin 
ointment,  and  strain. 

Or :  Yellow  wax,  4  ounces ;  olive  oil  and 
Venice  turpentine,  of  each  1  pound ;  alkanet 
root,  2  ounces ;  as  last.  Used  as  a  pectoral 
in  coughs  and  colds.  Dose,  £  to  1  tea-spoon- 
ful mixed  with  the  same  quantity  of  conserve 

5307.  Bell's  Gargle.      Take    of  pure 
borax,  2  drachms ;  yeast  and  honey,   of  each 
k  ounce ;  boiling  water,  7  ounces.     Mix. 

5308.  Mrs.  Wheeler's  Nursing  Syrup. 
Mix  together  35  ounces  sugar,  4  ounces  lime- 
water,  -j  ounce  aqueous  extract  of  podophyl- 
lin,  4  ounces  fluid  extract  of  poppy,  and  1 
drachm  oil  of  anise  in  2  ounces  rectified  spirit. 
The  aqueous  extract  of  podophyllin  is  of  the 
same  strength  as  the  ordinary  fluid  extracts, 
16  troy  ounces  to  the  pint.  The  above  syrup 
will  be  found  to  contain  about  2  drops  fluid 
extract  of  poppy  in  each  tea-spoonful. 

5309.  Mrs'.  Wheeler's  Worm  Confec- 
tion.    Triturate  to  a  fine  powder,  1  drachm 
mild   chloride   of   mercury  and   10   drachn*s 
sugar;   add  25  ounces  sugar  and  6  drachms 
santonin;  mix  all  together  and  make  into  360 
tablets.     Each  tablet  will  therefore  contain 
-£  grain  of  calomel  and  1  grain  santonin. 

5310.  Brodie's  Decoction  of  Pareira 
Brava.     Take  £  ounce  bruised  pareira  root, 
and  3  pints  boiling  water ;  boil  down  gently 
to  1  pint,  and   filter.     Dose,  1  wine-glassful 
every  2  hours.      An  excellent    remedy  for 
chronic  inflammation  of  the  bladder. 


5311.  Hufeland's    Diuretic    Drops. 

Take  £  fluid  drachm  oil  of  juniper,  and  3  fluid 
drachms  each  sweet  spirits  of  nitre  and 
tincture  of  digitalis.  Dose,  30  drops  every  3 
hours. 

5312.  Stephens' Infusion  of  Cayenne 
Pepper  and  Salt.     Macerate  |  ounce  pow- 
dered cayenne  pepper,  and  1  drachm  chloride 
of  sodium  (table  salt)  for  1  hour  in  8  fluid 
ounces  each  boiling  vinegar  and  boiling  water. 
Filter.     Dose,  1  table-spoonful  every  2  hours. 
This  has  been  administered  with  great  success 
in  malignant  scarlet  fever ;  used  both  inter- 
nally and  as  a  gargle. 

5313.  Magendie's  Acid   Solution   of 
Veratria.     Dissolve   1  grain  veratria   in  2 
fluid  ounces  distilled  water  and  5  drops  aro- 
matic sulphuric  acid.     Dose,  1  tea-spoonful, 
in  gouty  affections. 

5314.  Ryan's  Gleet  Powder.    Take  2 
scruples  powdered  ergot,  1  ounce  powdered 
cubebs,  £  drachm  powdered  cinnamon,  and  1 
drachm  sugar.    Make  into  8  powders.     Dose, 
1  powder  3  times  a  day,  for  leucorrhcea  and 
gleet. 

5315.  Channing's  Mixture.     Dissolve 
3£  grains  iodide  of  potassium  in  1  fluid  ounce 
distilled  water;  then  add  4i  grains  red  iodide 
of  mercury.    Dose,  from  2  to  5  drops,  in  cases 
of  secondary  symptoms,  and  obstinate  skin 
diseases. 

5316.  Thomas's  Cathartic  Pills. 
Take  J  drachm  compound  extract  of  colo- 
cynth,  and  3  grains  resin  of  podophyllin. 
Make  into  12  pills.  Dose,  1  or  2  at  bed-time. 
1  pill  acts  as  a  laxative;  3  as  a  free  pur- 
gative. 

5317.  Parrish's  Cathartic  Pills.  Take 
24  grains  aloin,  12  grains  resin  of  podophyllin, 
and  4  minims  oleo-resin  of  ginger.  Make 
into  24  pills.  Dose,  the  same  as  directed  in 
the  last  receipt. 

5318.  Becquerel's   Anti-Gout  Pills. 
Take  2  drachms  sulphate  of  quinine,  15  grains 
alcoholic  extract  of  digitalis,  and  2  scruples 
acetic   extract  of  colchicum.     Make  into  50 
pills.     Dose,  1  pill  every  3  hours. 

5319.  Butternut     Pills.      Take     £ 
drachm  extract  of  butternut,  1  scruple  pow- 
dered jalap  and  10  grains  soap.     Make  into 
15  pills.    Dose,  3  pills,  and,  if  these  do  not 
operate,   administer  2  more.      Butternut  is 
highly  recommended  as  a  cathartic  in  fevers, 
dysentery,  &c. 

5320.  Chapman's  Peristaltic  Persua- 
ders.     Take  1  drachm  powdered  rhubarb,  10 
grains  powdered  ipecacuanha,  and  10  drops 
oil  of  caraway.   Make  up  with  sufficient  pow- 
dered acacia  into  20  pills.     Dose,  2  pills  at 
bed-time,  in  obstinate  constipation. 

5321.  Composition  Powder.     Finely 
pulverize  2  pounds  bayberry  bark,   1  pound 
hemlock  bark,  1  pound  ginger,  2  ounces  cay- 
enne pepper,  and  2  ounces  cloves.    Mix  them 
together.     This  is   an  excellent  remedy  for 
weak  stomach,   dyspepsia,    <fec.     Put   i  tea- 
spoonful  of  the  mixture  with  a  tea-spoonful 
of  sugar  into  a  cup  of  boiling  water.    After 
standing  for  a  few  moments,  drink  the  con- 
tents. 

5322.  lie  Grqs's  Itch  Ointment.   Take 
of  iodide  of  potassium,  4  drachm  avoirdupois ; 
lard,  1  ounce ;  mix.    Cleanly    harmless,  and 
effective. 


4.7O 


PATENT  AND    PROPRIETARY  MEDICINES. 


5323.  Stokes'  Liniment.    The  formula 
here  given  for  this  preparation  is  the  one 
adopted  by  the  Maryland  College  of  Phar- 
macy, and  is  believed  to  be  as  originally  pre- 
scribed by  Dr.  Stokes.    Take  3  fluid  ounces 
oil  of  turpentine,  -J-  fluid  ounce  strong  acetic 
acid,  the  yolk  of  1  egg,  3  fluid  ounces  rose- 
water,  and  1  fluid  drachm  oil  of  lemon. 

5324.  Mother's  Cordial.     Take  4  oun- 
ces each  of  starwprt  (helonias  dioica),  high 
cranberry  bark  (viburnum  opulus),  and  blue 
cohosh  (caulophyllum  thalictroides),   and  1 
pound  of  partridge-berry  (niitchella  repens). 
Bruise  or  grind  the  ingredients,  and  macerate 
for  3  days  with  enough  strong  alcohol  to 
cover ;  then  displace  from  them  with  more 
alcohol  3  pints  of  tincture,   which  are   set 
aside,  and  the  ingredients  exhausted  with  hot 
water  until  it  passes  tasteless.    Add  2  pounds 
sugar  and  evaporate  with  a  gentle  heat  to  5 
pints ;  then  mix  with  the  3  pints  of  tincture 
and  flavor  with  sassafras. 

5325.  Wyndham's  Pills.     Gamboge,  3 
ounces;    aloes,    2    ounces;    Castile    soap,   1 
ounce ;    nitre,    k    ounce ;    extract    of   cow- 
parsnip,  1  ounce.    In  pills  of  5  grains  each. 
(Lee.) 

5326.  Anderson's    Pills.      Barbadoes 
aloes,  24  ounces ;  soap,  4  ounces ;  colocynth, 
1  ounce ;  gamboge,  1  ounce ;  oil  of  aniseed,  k 
fluid  ounce.     Mix,  and  divide  into  pills  of  3 
grains  each. 

5327.  Morrison's  Pills.    No.  1  consists 
of  equal  parts  of  aloes  arid  cream  of  tartar ; 
No.  2  consists  of  2  parts  of  gamboge,  3  of 
aloes,  1  of  colocynth,  and  4  of  cream  of  tartar, 
made  into  pills  with  syrup. 

5328.  Ayer's    Sarsaparilla.     Take   3 
fluid  ounces  each  of  alcohol,  fluid  extracts  of 
sarsaparilla  and  of  stillingia;  2  fluid  ounces 
each  fluid  extracts  of  yellow-dock  and    of 
podophyllin ;  1  ounce  sugar,  90  grains  iodide 
of  potassium,  and   10  grains  iodide  of  iron. 
This  is  from  a  receipt  given  by  Dr.  Ayer  him- 
self. 

5329.  Henderson's  Lotion  for  Corns. 
Take  tincture  of  iodine,  -J-  ounce ;   iodide  of 
iron,    12    grains;    chloride    of   antimony, 
ounce.     Pare  the  corn,   and  apply  with    a 
camel's-hair    pencil.      This  lotion  has  been 
much  commended  for  destroying  corns. 

5330.  Velpeau's  Black  Caustic.     Tri- 
turate in  a  porcelain  mortar  1  ounce'  powdered 
liquorice  root,  and  add  sulphuric  acid  in  small 
quantities  until  a  mass  is  obtained  neither 
too  hard   nor  too  liquid.     This   preparation 
forms  a  well-marked  hard  black  scab. 

5331.  Jarave  Spanish.     Pour  4  gallons 
of  boiling  water  on  2  pounds  Eio  $"egro  sarsa- 
parilla, 8  ounces  powdered  guaiacum  bark,  4 
ounces  each  of  rasped  guaiacum  wood,  anise 
seed,  and  liquorice  root,  2  ounces  of  bark  of 
mezereon  root,  2  pounds  of  molasses,  and  12 
bruised  cloves.     Shake  it  thrice  a  day,  and 
keep  it  in  a  warm  place.     "When  fermentation 
has  set  in,  it  is  fit  for  use.    Dose,  a  small 
tumblerful. 

5332.  Bouyer's  Syrop  de  Lait  lodique. 
Take  cow's  milk  200  parts;   cane  sugar,  GO 
parts;  iodide  of  potassium,  £  part;    and  a 
Uttle  soda.     Mix,  and  evaporate  to  100  parts. 

5333.  Cephalic  Snuff.   Dried  asarabacca 
leaves,  3  parts;  marjoram,  1  part;  lavender 
flowers,  1  part ;  rub  together  to  a  powder. 


5334.  Boeli's  Cephalic  Snuff  consists 
of  2  drachms  valerian,  2  drachms  snuff,  3 
drops  oil  of  lavender,  3  drops  oil  of  marjoram; 
mix.     This  is  said  to  relieve  the  eyes  as  well 
as  the  head. 

5335.  Badway's   Beady   Belief,  ac- 
cording to  Peckolt,  is  an  ethereal  tincture  of 
capsicum,  with  alcohol  and  camphor. 

5336.  Badway's  Benovating  Besolv- 
ent.     A  vinous  tincture  of  ginger  and  carda- 
mom, sweetened  with  sugar.      (Hager  and 
Jacobsen.} 

5337.  Swedish    Essence    of   Life   is 
made  in  this  country,  under  various  names. 
As  usually  made  by  apothecaries,  it  is  a  tinc- 
ture prepared  from  4  parts  aloes,  1  each  of 
agaric,  rhubarb,  zedoary,  gentian,  myrrh,  and 
theriac,  with  100  to  120  parts  dilute  alcohol. 
The  medicine  manufacturers  usually  substi- 
tute   cheaper    articles    for    the    high-priced 
saffron  and  rhubarb.     (See  No.  5365.) 

5338.  Walker's  Jesuits'  Drops.     Bal- 
sam of  copaiba,  6  ounces;  gum  guaiacum,  1 
ounce;  Chio turpentine,  \ ounce ;  subcarbonate 
of  potash,  ^  ounce ;  cochineal,  1  drachm ;  rec- 
tified spirit,  1  quart. 

5339.  Molinari's    Bemedy  for  Sea- 
Sickness.    Digest  for  12  hours  in  If  Imperial 
pints  of  wine  vinegar,  -J-  ounce  each  of  rue, 
thyme,  mint,   rosemary,   absinthe,    turmeric, 
and  green  walnut  rind;  \  ounce  annatto;  •§• 
ounce  pearlash;    and   1   poppy -head.     After 
digestion  boil  for  half  an  hour;   then  strain 
through  linen ;  in  this  decoction  are  moistened 
or  dipped  some  4  or  5  strips  of  filtering  paper 
7  or  8  inches  long,  and  then  dried ;  upon  one 
side  of  these  strips  some  light  stuff  is  fastened 
by  the  corners  and  some  loose  wadding  placed 
inside.    Strings  are  next  fastened  to  the  band- 
age and  it  is  then  tied  around  the  body  so  as 
to  cover  the  region  of  the  heart.     This  pre- 
ventive of  sea-sickness  has  been  patented  in 
England. 

5340.  Bedwood's  Nervine   Balsam. 
Melt  together  4   ounces   oil  of  mace  and  4 
ounces  beef  marrow.     Dissolve  in  4  drachms 
alcohol,  2  drachms  each  oil  of  rosemary  and 
balsam  of  tolu,  and  1  drachm  each  of  camphor 
and  oil  of  cloves.    Mix  all  together.    A  good 
liniment  in  rheumatism. 

5341 .  Chaussier's  Obstetric  Ointment. 
Extract   belladonna,  2 -drachms;   water  and 
lard,  each  2  drachms.     Mix  well. 

5342.  Dutch  Drops,  or  Haerlem 
Drops.  There  is  considerable  difference  in 
the  ingredients  and  quality  of  these  long-cele- 
brated drops ;  but  the  most  common  prepara- 
tion, perhaps,  is  made  according  to  the  follow- 
ing formula :  Take  balsam  of  turpentine,  2 
ounces;  oil  of  turpentine,  10  ounces.  Mix. 
The  following  is  also  one  of  the  imitations  of 
it  made  in  this  country : ,  Linseed  oil,  1  quart ; 
resin,  2  pounds ;  sulphur,  1  pound ;  boil  to- 
gether over  a  slow  fire ;  when  combined  re- 
move from  the  fire,  and  add  1  pint  oil  of  tur- 
pentine, and  50  drops  liquor  of  ammonia ;  stir 
well  together  and  bottle.  The  genuine  drops 
are  the  residuum  of  the  rectification  of  oil  of 
turpentine.  Dutch  drops  are  of  course  stimu- 
lant and  diuretic  in  their  therapeutical  effects; 
but  they  have  been  regarded  by  the  common 
people  as  possessed  of  many  other  virtues,  and 
have  been  much  applied  to  wounds  and  other 
external  injuries  of  the  surface. 


PATENT  AND    PROPRIETARY  MEDICINES. 


4,71 


5343.  Russia  Salve.     Take  equal  parts 
of  yellow  wax  and  sweet  oil,  melt  slowly, 
carefully  stirring;  when  cooling,  stir  in  a  small 
quantity  of  glycerine.     Good  for  all  kinds  of 
wounds,  &c. 

5344.  James'  Oil  of  Gladness.    Take 
oil  of  hemlock,  1  ounce ;  linseed  oil,  1  quart. 

5345.  Green  Mountain  Salve.     Take 
2  pounds  resin,  i   pound  Burgundy  pitch,  i 
pound   bees'-wax,   J  pound  mutton   tallow; 
melt  them  slowly.     "When  not  too  warm,  add 
1  ounce  oil  hemlock,  1  ounce  balsam  fir,  1 
ounce  oil  origanum,  1  ounce  oil  of  red  cedar, 

1  ounce  Venice  turpentine,  1  ounce  oil  worm- 
wood, £  ounce  verdigris.     The  verdigris  must 
be  very  finely  pulverized  and  mixed  with  the 
oils,  then  add  as  above  and  work  all  in  cold 
water  until  cold  enough  to  roll.    This  salve 
has  no  equal  for  rheumatic  pains  or  weakness 
in  the  side,  back,  shoulders,  or  any  place  where 
pain  may  locate  itself.     "Where  the  skin  is 
broken,  as  in  ulcers,  bruises,  <fcc.,  use  without 
the  verdigris. 

5346.      Keating's    Cough  Lozenges. 
These  are  said  to  be  composed  of  lactucariurn, 

2  drachms ;  ipecacuanha,  1  drachm ;  squills, 
£  drachm ;  extract  of  liquorice,  2  drachms ; 
sugar,  6  ounces.     Made  into  a  mass  with 
mucilage    of  tragacanth,   and    divided    into 
20-grain  lozenges. 

5347.  Milburn's  Mixture.     Precipita- 
ted prepared  chalk,  loaf  sugar,  and  gum-ara- 
bic, of  each  2  drachms ;  green  mint  water,  4i 
ounces ;    laudanum,   10   minims ;    spirits  of 
lavender,  2  drachms;  simple  syrup,  li  oun- 
ces ;  tincture  of  kino,  1  ounce.     Mix.     Useful 
in  loose  bowels  in  children,  and  can  be  given 
to  them  after  each  evacuation,  regardless  of 
number.     Dose,  from  i  to  1  table-spoonful. 
Shake    the    mixture  well  each  time  before 
using  it. 

5348.  Bicord's  Aromatic  "Wine.    Take 
rue,    sage,   hyssop,   lavender,    absinth,  rose- 
leaves,  thyme,  and  elder  flowers,  of  each  4 
ounces.     Digest  for  2  weeks  in  9  pints  claret. 
Then  add  tannic  acid,  alum,  wine  of  opium, 
of  each  9  ounces. 

5349.  Beyran's  Wash.     Dissolve  chlo- 
ride of  zinc  in  100  times  its  weight  of  pure 
water.     This  solution  is  used  as  a  wash  for 
chancres,   and    spontaneously   or   artificially 
opened  buboes  that .  are   extending   both  in 
size  and  depth,  and  show  no  signs  of  cicatri- 
zation.    It  is  applied  twice  a  day  by  means 
of  lint  moistened  with  it.     As  soon  as  the  vi- 
tality of  the  parts  becomes  favorably  modi- 
fied, Dr.  Beyran  replaces  this  wash  by  Ricord's 
wine  of  cinchona  or  aromatic  wine.     (See  No. 
5348.) 

5350.  Charta    Epispastica.      "White 
wax,  4  parts;    spermaceti,    Ik   parts;   olive 
oil,  2  parts ;  resin,  f  parts ;  Canada  balsam, 
J  part ;  cantharides  in  powder,  1  part ;  dis- 
tilled water,  6  parts.     Digest  all  the  ingredi- 
ents excepting  the  Canada  balsam  in  a  water- 
bath  for  2  hours,  stirring  them  constantly ; 
then  strain,  and  separate  the  plaster  from  the 
watery  liquid.     Mix  the  Canada  balsam  with 
the  plaster  melted  in  a  shallow  vessel,  and 
pass  slips  of  paper  over  the  surface  of  the  hot 
liquid,  so  that  one  surface  of  the  paper  shall 
receive  a  thin  coating  of  plaster. 

5351.  Brodum's   Nervous    Cordial. 
Take   equal  parts  of  iron  wine,  compound 


sprits    of  lavender,    tinctures    of    calumba, 
gentian,  cinchona,  and  cardamoms. 

5352.  Atkinson's    Infant  Preserva- 
tive.     Carbonate  of  magnesia,  6  drachms ; 
white  sugar,  2  ounces ;   oil  of   aniseed,  20 
drops ;    spirit    of  sal- volatile,  2^    drachms  ; 
laudanum,   1  drachm ;    syrup   of  saffron,   1 
ounce ;  caraway  water  to  make  a  pint. 

5353.  Boyle's  Fuming  Liquor.     Take 
quicklime  and  sulphur,  each  3  parts.     Tritur- 
ate together,  adding  water  sufficient  to  form 
a  paste,  and  incorporate  7  parts  sulphate  of 
ammonia  dissolved  in  water;   let  the  whole 
stand,  then  decant,  wash  the  residuum,  rub- 
bing it  with  a  small  portion  of  water,  unite 
the  solutions,  and  filter.     This  is  the  sulphu- 
retted hydrosulpliatc  of  ammonia,  and  is  used 
in  medicine  as  a  powerful  alterative  in  consti- 
tutional diseases. 

5354.  Hall's  Solution  of  Strychnia. 
Take  pure  crystals  of  strychnia,  16  grains ; 
water  and  alcohol,  of  each  7i  ounces;  acetic 
acid  and  compound  tincture  of  cardamoms, 
of  each  i  ounce.  Mix  for  solution.  Dose,  20  to 
30  drops,  once  or  twice  a  day. 

5355.  Flemming's  Solution  of  Strych- 
nia.    Take  of  strychnia,  2  grains ;    distilled 
water,  5  fluid  drachms ;  muriatic  acid,  1  drop, 
or  sufficient  to  dissolve  the  strychnia.    Dis- 
solve by  trituration,  and  add  diluted  alcohol 
enough  to  make  10  fluid  drachms.    Dose,  in 
the  beginning,  10  minims. 

5356.  Brandish's  Alkaline  Tincture 
of  Rhubarb.    Coarsely  powdered  rhubarb,  1 
ounce;  Braudish's  alkaline  solution,  32  fluid 
ounces.     The  original  formula  directs  only  & 
ounce  rhubarb,   but  as  smaller  doses   than 
were  given  by  Dr.  Brandish  are  now  usually 
prescribed,  the   quantity  of  rhubarb  is  here 
increased.     Or  an  alkaline  infusion  of  rhubarb 
may  be  made  by  pouring  boiling  water,  8 
parts,  on  rhubarb,  3  parts,  and  carbonate  of 
potash,  1  part. 

5357.  Brandish's  Alkaline  Solution, 
or  Caustic  Alkali.     American  pearl-ashes, 
6  pounds;  quicklime,  2  pounds;  wood  ashes 
prepared  by  burning  the  branches  of  the  ash, 
2  pounds ;  boiling  water,  6  gallons ;  slack  the 
lime,  add  the  rest  of  the  water  and  the  pearl- 
ashes,  and  lastly  stir  in  the  wood-ashes ;  let 
it  stand  in  a  covered  vessel  for  24  hours,  and 
decant.     To  each  pint  add  1  drop  of  true  oil 
of  juniper    berries.      Keep   it  in    stoppered 
bottles  of  green  glass.     The  common  liquor 
of  potassa  is  usually  sold  for  the  above  solu- 
tion. 

5358.  Coating  for  Pills.  Durden 
recommends  collodion  as  a  covering  for  pills ; 
others,  a  solution  of  gutta  percha  in  chloro- 
form; but  the  ready  solubility  of  these 
materials  in  the  stomach  may  be  questioned. 
Blanchard  uses  balsam  Of  tolu  dissolved  in 
ether.  Baildon  recommends  chloroform  in- 
stead of  ether  for  dissolving  the  balsam. 

5359.  Garrot's    Covering   for  Pills. 
Soak   1   ounce  purified    gelatine  in  2  or   3 
drachms  water;  keep  it  liquefied  in  a  salt- 
water bath.    The  pills  are  stuck  on  long  pins, 
and  dipped  in  the  solution;  when  cold  the 
pins  are  withdrawn,  after  being  heated  by  a 
small  flame,  which  melts  the  gelatine  and 
closes  the  hole.  * 

5360.  Bochet's     Syrup.      Compound 
syrup  of  sarsaparilla,  with  senna,  and  1  per 


PATENT   AND    PROPRIETARY    MEDICINES. 


cent,  of  iodide  of  potassium.    Used  for  scrofu- 
lous affections. 

5361.  Betton's   British  Oil.      Oil   of 
turpentine,  8  ounces ;  Barbadoes  tar,  4  oun- 
ces ;  oil  of  rosemary,  4  drachms ;  mix. 

5362.  British  Oil,   or  Oil  of  Stone. 
Take  oils  of  turpentine  and  linseed,  each  8 
ounces ;  oils  of  amber  and  juniper,  each  4  oun- 
ces.   Barbadoes  tar,  3  ounces ;  seneca  (petro- 
leum) oil,  1  ounce.    Mix.    This  is  an  excel- 
lent application  to  cuts  and  bruises,  swellings 
and  sores  of  almost  any  description  whatever. 

5363.  Cochrane's    Cough   Medicine. 
This    consists    of  an    acidulated    syrup    of 
poppies. 

5364.  Godfrey's  Cordial.    The  Phil- 
adelphia College  of  "Pharmacy,  to  prevent  the 
mischief  arising  from  the  different  strength  of 
this  compound,  directs  it  to  be  prepared  as 
follows :    Dissolve  2k    ounces    carbonate    of 
potash  in  26  pints  of  water,  add  16  pints  mo- 
lasses; heat  together  over  a  gentle  fire  till 
they  simmer,   remove  the  scum,  and,  when 
sufficiently  cool,  add  k  ounce  oil  of  sassafras 
dissolved  in  2  pints  of  rectified  spirit,  and  24 
fluid  ounces  of  tincture  of  opium,  previously 
mixed.     It  contains  about  16  minims  of  laud- 
anum, or  rather  more  than  1  grain  of  opium 
in  each  fluid  ounce. 

5365.  Baume  de  Vie.    Socotrine  aloes, 
2  drachms ;  rhubarb,  6  drachms ;  saffron,  2 
drachms ;     liquorice    root,    1    ounce ;     proof 
spirit,  8  ounces.    Digest  for  8  days  and  filter. 
The  original  Swedish  form  is  this :  Aloes,  9 
drachms ;  rhubarb,  gentian,  zedoary,  saffron, 
theriaca,   agaric,   of  each  1    drachm;    proof 
spirit,  2  pints.     (See  No.  5337.) 

5366.  Jozeau's  Copahine-mege.    The 
intention  of  M.  Jozeau  m  devising  this  form 
of  copaiba  was  to  furnish  an  article  that  the 
stomach  would  be  more  able  to  digest  than 
the  crude  article.    To  this  end  he  proposed  to 
himself  to  oxidize  the  copaiba,  which  he  ac- 
complishes by  mixing  nitric  acid  with  it.     The 
essential  oil  is  acted  on,  and  hyponitrous  acid 
gas  escapes  into  the  atmosphere.    The  copai- 
ba thus  treated  is  then  washed  with  water, 
until  it  no  longer  reddens  litmus  paper,  and 
one-tenth  part  of  cubebs  in  fine  powder  are 
added  to  it,  the  same  proportion  of  carbonate 
of  soda,   and  one-sixteenth  part  of  calcined 
magnesia.    The  mixture  is  allowed  to  stand 
until  it  is  quite  solidified,  and  in  that  state  it  i 
made  into  small  masses,  which  are  then  care- 
fully covered  with  sugar. 

5367.  Ford's  Balsam  of  Horehound 
is  said  to  be  prepared  according  to  the  follow- 
ing formula :    horehound  herb,   3£   pounds ; 
liquorice  root,   3£   pounds;    water,   8  pints. 
Infuse  for  12  hours,  then  strain  off  6  pints,  to 
which  add  camphor,  10  drachms ;  opium  and 
benzoin,   of  each  1  ounce ;  dried  squills,  2 
ounces  ;  oil  of  aniseed,  1  ounce  ;  proof  spirit, 
12  pints.     Macerate  for   1   week,   then  add 
honey,  3|  pounds.    Mix  and  strain. 

5368.  Holloway's    Ointment.      Take 
butter,  12 ounces ;  bees'-wax,  4  ounces;  yellow 
resin,  3  ounces.     Melt,  and  add  vinegar  of 
cantharides,  1  ounce.    (See  No.  1178.)    Evap- 
orate and  add  Canada  balsam,  1  ounce ;  oil  of 
mace,  |  drachm ;  balsam  Peru,  15  drops. 

5369.*  Holloway's  Pills.  Take  aloes, 
4  parts;  myrrh,  jalap,  and  ginger,  of  each 
2  parts.  Mucilage  to  mix. 


5370.  Sydenham's  Laudanum.     Ac- 

ording  to  t£e  Paris  Codex  this  is  prepared 
as  follows  :  opium,  2  ounces  ;  saffron,  1  ounce  ; 
bruised  cinnamon  and  bruised  cloves,  each  1 
drachm  ;  sherry  wine,  1  pint.  Mix  and  mace- 
rate for  15  days  and  filter.  Twenty  drops  are 

iqual  to  one  grain  of  opium. 

5371.  Riegler's  Fever  Tincture.   Take 
of  aloes,  k  ounce  ;  camphor,  4  scruples  ;  orange 
peel  and  elecampane  root,  of  each  8  ounces. 
Bruise  and  digest  with  10  pints  alcohol  (80 
per  cent.)  for  8  days.     Then  express,   add 
12  ounces  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  6  ounces  sul- 
phate of  quinine,  and  li  ounces  Sydenham's 
laudanum.     (See  last  receipt.)    After  the  use 
of  a  purgative  or  emetic  if  required,  2  drachms 
of  this  tincture  are  given  3  hours  before  the 
paroxysm  is  expected,  with  short  diet.     On 
the     seventh,    fourteenth,    and     eighteenth 
day,  after  the  last  attack,  the  same  dose  is 
given.    This  remedy  fails  only  in  very  excep- 
tional cases.     It  is  in  use  in  the  Austrian  mil- 
itary hospitals. 

5372.  Kitridge's  Salve.     Make  a  de- 
coction in  rain  water  of  li  pounds  each  bitter- 
sweet root  and  sweet  elder  root ;    k  pound 
each  hop  vines,  hop  leaves,  and  garden  plan- 
tain tops,  with  i  pound  of  the  root  of  the  last 
named    plant,   and    i  ounce    plug    tobacco. 
Strain,  and  press  through  a  thick  cloth,  and 
evaporate  to  i  pint.    Then  mix  with  1  pound 
sweet  butter  and  1  ounce  each  resin  and  bees'- 
wax.  Heat  gently  until  the  water  has  all  evap- 
orated.    This  is  a  good  curative  salve  for  sores 
on  the  human  body  as  well  as  on  animals. 

5373.  Thirlault's  Glycero-pomade  of 
Iodide  of  Potassium.     Melt  glycerine  (of 
28°  to  30°  Baume),  100  parts  ;  powdered  ani- 
mal soap,  50  parts,  powdered  iodide  of  po- 
tassium, 130  parts ;   in  a  warm  bath ;  then 
pour  out  into  a  warm  porcelain  mortar,  and 
triturate  well  for  J  hour.     Then  flavor  with  2 
parts  oil  of  bitter  almonds. 

5374.  Elixir  of  Bromide  of  Ammo- 
nium.   Prepared  from  bromide  of  ammonium 
as  in  No.  5449,  without  the  coloring. 

5375.  Patent  Dysentery  Cordial. 
Take  of  rhubarb,  catechu,  and  camphor, 
2  parts  each;  laudanum,  4  parts;  and  a, 
little  oil  of  anise.  Dose,  15  to  60  drops 
after  each  operation. 

5376.  Whitwith's  Bed  Drops.     Take 
oil  of  thyme,  4  drachms ;  tincture  of  myrrh, 
2  ounces ;  tincture  of  camphor,  2  drachms ; 
compound  spirits  of  lavender,  2  ounces ;  alco- 
hol, 8  ounces.     Mix.      Dose,  25  drops  in  some 
suitable  vehicle,  two,  three,  or  four  times  a 
day.    This  is  the  original  receipt,  but  it  has 
been  varied  in  many  ways. 

5377.  George's  Myrrhine.     Glycerine, 
38  parts  ;  myrrh,  7  parts ;  arrow-root,  5  parts ; 
chalk,  54  parts  ;  oil  of  cinnamon,  1  part.     For 
the  preservation  of  the  teeth. 

5378.  Kirkland's  Neutral  Cerate. 
Mix  together  4  ounces  litharge  plaster,  1J 
drachms  acetate  of  lead,  and  2  ounces  each 
olive  oil,  precipitated  chalk,  and  acetic  acid. 

5379.  Hufeland's  Zinc  Cerate.    For 
sore  nipples,  ulcerations  of   the   breast,  &c. 
Mix  15  grains  each  oxide  of  zinc  and  lycopo- 
dium,  with  \  ounce  simple  cerate  and  about 
h  ounce  of  spermaceti  cerate. 

5380.  Deschamps'  Fuligokali   Oint- 
ment.    This  ointment  has  been  considerably 


PATENT   AND    PEOPKIETARY  MEDICINES. 


4:73 


used  in  obstinate  chronic  diseases  of  the  skin 
as  a  detersive,  resolvent,  and  stimulant  appli- 
cation, and  is  made  by  taking  of  fuligokali, 
16  to  30  parts  (sec  next-  receipt) ;  lard,  1 
ounce.  Rub  together. 

5381.  To  Obtain  Fuligokali.    Take  of 
potassa,  20  parts  ;  bright  soot,  100  parts ;  wa- 
ter, sufficient ;  boil  for  an  hour,  cool,  dilute 
with  water,  evaporate  to  dryness,  and  keep  in 
well-stoppered  bottles. 

5382.  Hooper's  Female  Pills.     Take  1 
drachm  dry  sulphate  of  iron,  15  grains  pow- 
dered jalap,  1  drachm  powdered  aloes  and  cin- 
namon, and  8  grains  myrrh.    Mix  with  syrup, 
and  make  into  30  pills.     Dose,  2  or  3  at  bed- 
time for  several  nights  in  succession.    They 
purge  smartly,  and  act  beneficially  as  an  em- 
meuagogue.     According  to  a  recent  analysis, 
the  iron  is  in  a  peroxidized  state  ;  probably  the 
sulphate  is  partially  calcined.    The  Philadel- 
phia College  of  Pharmacy  gives  the  following 
formula  :     Barbadoes  aloes,  8  ounces  ;  dried 
sulphate  of  iron,  9£  drachms ;  extract  of  black 
hellebore,  2  ounces ;  myrrh  and  soap,  each  2 
ounces ;  cauella,   1  ounce ;  ginger,  1  ounce ; 
water  sufficient  to  form  a  mass.    Divide  into 
pills  of  2J  grains  each. 

5383.  Nuremberg   Plaster.      Mix   8 
ounces  red  lead  with  1  pound  olive  oil,  and 
expose  to  a  heat  until  the  mixture  becomes 
brown  or  blackish ;  add  £  ounce  resin,  Ik  oun- 
ces yellow  wax,  and  2  drachms  camphor.    The 
red  lead  should  not  be  added  to  the  oil  until 
so  far  heated  as  to  scorch  a  feather  dipped 
into  it. 

5384.  Green  Coloring  Powder.     Mix 
together  1  part  indigo  and  10  parts  curcuma 
root,  and  reduce  to  a  fine  powder.     (Hager.) 

5385.  Green  Oil.     Digest  for  2  days, 
with  frequent  agitation,  1  part  green  coloring 
powder  (see  last  receipt}  in  20  parts  olive  oil. 
Decant  the  clear,  and  filter.     Keep  in  glass 
bottles  carefully  stopped.     Or:   Boil  1  part 
fresh  plantain  in  8  parts  olive  oil,  until  crisp ; 
press  and  filter.     (Hagcr.) 

Either  of  these  will  produce  an  oil  whose 
appearance  is  identical  with  the  oil  of  hen- 
bane, and  is  probably  sometimes  sold  for  it. 

5386.  Plunket's  Ointment  for  Cancer. 
"White  arsenic,  sulphur,  powdered  flowers  of 
lesser  spearwort  and  stinking  chamomile,  lev- 
igated together,  and  formed  into  a  paste  with 
white  of  egg. 

5387.  Hope's  Camphor  Mixture.   Take 
4   ounces   camphor  watei',  30   drops   fuming 
nitric   acid,  and  20  to  40   drops  tincture  of 
opium.     Dose,  a  table-spoonful  every  2  hours. 

5388.  Murphy's  Carminative.     Take 
£  pint  tincture  of  valerian,  10  fluid  drachms 
acetated  tincture  of  opium,  128  grains  pulver- 
ized camphor,  248  grains  carbonate  of  potassa, 
2  ounces  carbonate  of  magnesia,  40  minims 
each  oil  of  anise  and  oil  of  mint,  and  li  pints 
water.     Dose  for  an  infant,  20  to  25  drops. 
This  is  said  to  be  an  improvement  on  Dewees' 
carminative.     (See  No.  5435.) 

5389.  Eisenmann's  Opiated  Wine  of 
Colchicum.     This  consists  of  a  mixture  of  6 
parts  wine  of  colchicum  seed  and  1  part  wine 
of  opium. 

5390.  Pierlot's  Solution  of  Valerian- 
ate  of  Ammonia.     Dissolve  3  scruples  ex- 
tract of  valerian  in  7  fluid  ounces  spring  wa- 
ter; add  3  fluid  drachms  fluid  extract  of  vale- 


rian, and  filter;  then  add  2  drachms  valerianate 
of  ammonia,  6  fluid  drachms  orange-flower 
water,  and  6  fluid  drachms  simple  syrup. 
Dose,  1  tea-spoonful  3  or  4  times  a  day. 

5391.  Brandreth's  Pills.  According 
to  Dr.  Hager's  analysis,  these  consist  of  10 
grains  extract  of  may-apple,  30  grains  poke 
berry  juice,  10  grains  saffron,  10  grains  pow- 
dered may  apple  root,  15  grains  powdered 
cloves,  and  3  drops  oil  of  peppermint.  This 
is  made  into  30  pills  with  powdered  liquorice 
root. 

5392.  Foucher's  Dressing  for  Wounds. 
Dissolve  2  drachms  chlorate  of  potassa  in  4 
fluid  ounces  glycerine,  and  add  2i  ounces  al- 
cohol. This  forms  a  cle"ar  liquid  which  is 
readily  absorbed  by  linen,  and  does  not  soil 
the  clothing.  It  keeps  the  dressings  moist  for 
24  hours,  is  easily  washed  off  with  lukewarm 
water,  and  is  well  adapted  for  soft  granula- 
tions. 

5393.  Atler's   Nipple    Wash.     Take 
£   drachm  powdered    gum-arabic,   10   grains 
borate  of   soda,   and   1   drachm   tincture   of 
myrrh. 

5394.  Beach's  Neutralizing  Cordial. 
Mix  together  1  ounce  coarsely  powdered  Tur- 
key rhubarb,  k  ounce  peppermint  leaves,  and 

1  ounce  bicarbonate  of  potash.     Put  the  ma- 
terials in  a  stone  jar,  and  add  1  pint  boiling 
water ;  let  it  stand  till  cold,  and  then  add  i 
pint  best  brandy  and   i  pound  loaf  sugar. 
Digest  for  a  day  or  two,  and  strain  through 
flannel.     Bottle  for  use. 

5395.      Hager's    Vermin    Ointment. 
Mix  together   12  parts  sulphate  of  quinine, 

2  parts  muriatic  acid,  and  200  parts  lard. 

5396.  Mayes'  Substitute  for  Osgood's 
Indian  Cholagogue.    Dr.  Mayes,  of  Mayes- 
ville,  S.  C.,  gives  the  following  receipt,  which 
he  declares  to  be  very  similar  to,  if  not  iden- 
tically the  same,  in  taste,  smell  and  effects,  as 
Osgood's  Indian  cholagogue.    Take  2  drachms 
sulphate  of  quinine ;  1  drachm  Tildens'  fluid 
extract  of  leptandra ;  4  ounces  saturated  tinc- 
ture of  queens'  root ;  3  drachms  Tilden's  ex- 
tract of  podophyllin  (may-apple);    10  drops 
each  of  oil  of  sassafras  and  oil  of  wintergreen ; 
and  sufficient  best  New  Orleans  molasses  to 
make  the  whole  up  to  8  ounces.    This  mixture 
to  be  well  shaken  up  before  a  dose  is  mea- 
sured; as  the  quinine  (not  being  dissolved) 
will  settle  to  the  bottom  of  the  bottle.     The 
dose  for  adults  is  from  1  to  3  tea-spoonfuls  3 
times  a  day.    The  dose  is,  however,  a  matter 
dependent  entirely  upon  the  nature  of  the 
case ;  and  may  be  less  or  more,  according  to 
circumstances.     It  usually  requires  at  least 
one  8-ounce  bottle  of  the  mixture  to  insure  a 
permanent  cure.      "When   Tilden's  fluid  ex- 
tracts cannot  be  had,  saturated  tinctures  may 
be  used,  but  in   increased    quantities;    say 
rather  more  than  double  the  quantity  given 
of  the  fluid  extract.    In  order,  then,  to  preserve 
the  due  balance,  the  mixture  must  be  made  to 
measure  10  ounces,  and  a  corresponding  in- 
crease of  dose  must  be  made. 

5397.  Norris's  Soda  Mint.    Soda  mint, 
so  much  employed  as  an  antacid  and  carmina- 
tive for  over-fed  infants  and  dyspeptics,  was 
originally  a  favorite  prescription  of  Dr.  Geo. 
Morris.     His  formula  was  the  following :  Mix 
together  \  ounce  bicarbonate  of  soda,  1  ounce 
aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia,  and  1  pint  pep- 


4,74, 


PATENT  AND    PROPRIETARY  MEDICINES. 


penmnt  water.  Dose,  from  a  dessert-spoonful 
to  a  table- spoonful  for  adults;  from  k  to  1 
tea- spoonful  for  infants. 

5398.  Foy's  Muriatic  Acid  Chilblain 
Lotion.     Muriatic  a6id,   1  part;    water,    16 
parts.     To  be  used  occasionally  as  a  wash. 

5399.  Foy's  Sulphuric  Acid  Chilblain 
Liniment.     Sulphuric  acid,  2  drachms;  olive 
oil,  2k  ounces;  and  oil  of  turpentine,  1  ounce. 
Mix.     Applied  with  gentle  friction  where  the 
skin  is  not  broken. 

5400.  Balsam  of  Peru  Liniment  for 
Chilblains.      Balsam  of   Peru,    £  drachm; 
muriatic  ether,  2  drachms ;  and  laudanum,  2 
drachms.     To  be  used  as  a  friction. 

5401.  Gassicourt's  Turpentine  Chil- 
blain Lotion.     Oil  of  turpentine,  4  parts; 
sulphuric  acid,  1  part ;  olive  oil,  10  parts.    To 
be  applied  to  the  affected  part  night  and  morn- 
ing. 

5402.  Saunders'  Petroleum  Chilblain 
Embrocation.     Mix  together  petroleum,  ^ 
ounce ;  alcohol,  £  ounce. 

5403.  Radius'  Camphor  Chilblain 
Ointment.  Lard,  suet,  oil  of  bayberries,  and 
wax,  of  each  k  ounce.  Melt  together  and  add 
camphor,  1  drachm. 

5404.  Compound  Creosote  Ointment 
for  Chilblains.    Creosote,  10  drops ;  solution 
of  subacetate  of  lead,  10  drops;   extract  of 
opium,  li  grains;  lard,  1  ounce. 

5405.  Deschamps'  Pastils    for    Bad 
Breath.     Take  of  dry  hypochlorite  of  lime, 
2    drachms;     sugar,    8k    ounces;    starch,    8 
drachms;   gum  tragacanth,   1   drachm;   and 
carmine,   2k   grains.     The  pastils  should  be 
made  so  as  to  weigh  about  2k  grains ;  5  or  6 
may  be  taken  in  the  space  of  2  hours.    By 
employing  starch  in  the  preparation  of  the 
lozenges,  Deschamps  wishes  to  prevent  the 
yellow  color  which  they  would  otherwise  as- 
sume. 

5406.  Soubeiran's    Lotion  of  Vera- 
tria.     Take  15  grains  veratria,  dissolve  it  in 
sufficient    dilute    muriatic  acid,   and   add  5 
drachms  glycerine. 

5407.  Noble's  Tonic  Elixir.     Take  1 
ounce  each  of  rhubarb  root,  orange  peel,  and 
caraway  (or  fennel)  seed;  percolate  with   1 
pint  brandy.     Dose,    a  tea-spoonful  3  times  a 
day,  after  each  meal. 

5408.  Delioux's  Wine  for  Rheuma- 
tism, Gout,  and  Neuralgia.     Take  5  parts 
tincture  of  colchicum  seed,  2  parts  tincture  of 
aconite  leaves,  1  part  tincture  of  fox-glove, 
and  200  parts  white  wine.     Dose  to  com- 
mence with,  k  table- spoonful  3  times  a  day. 

5409.  Ludlam's    Specific.      Take     2 
drachms  extract  of  rhatauy,  1  drachm  alum, 
1  ounce  cubebs,  all  in  powder ;  1  fluid  ounce 
balsam  of  capaiba,  and  sufficient  carbonate  of 
magnesia.     Dose,  a  small  piece  every  3  or  4 
hours. 

5410.  Davis'  Pain  Killer.     This  pre- 
paration is  said  to  be  prepared  as  follows  : 
Take  20  pounds  powdered  guaiac,  2  pounds 
camphor,  6  pounds  powdered  cayenne  pepper, 
1  pound  caustic  liquor  of  ammonia,   and  \ 

Sound  powdered  opium  ;  digest  these  ingre- 
ients  in  32  gallons  alcohol  for  2  weeks,  and 
filter. 

5411.  Hunter's  Red  Drop.      Triturate 
in  a  glass  mortar,  10  grains  corrosive  sublim- 
ate in  12  drops  muriatic  acid,  aud  add  gradu- 


ally I  fluid  ounce  compound  spirit  of  laven- 
der. Dose,  5  to  20  drops  in  wine.  A  power- 
ful alterative  in  syphilitic  diseases,  and  will 
not  salivate. 

5412.  Battley's  Sedative  Solution  of 
Opium.     Take  6  ounces   sliced   opium,    \\ 
ounces  bruised  nutmegs,  k  ounce  Spanish  saf- 
fron, and  4  pounds  verjuice.      Boil  together, 
and  add  4  drachms  yeast ;  let  the  whole  fer- 
ment 6  weeks,  in  a  warm  place.     Decant,  fil- 
ter, and  bottle ;  add  a  little  sugar  to  each  bot- 
tle.    One  drop  of  this  sedative  is  equivalent 
to  3  drops  of  black  drop. 

5413.  Nimmo's  Solution  of  Croton 
Oil.     Mix  together  \  drachm  alcoholic   solu- 
tion of  croton  oil,  2  drachms  each  simple 
syrup  and  guaiac  mucilage,  and  k  ounce  dis- 
tilled  water.     This    quantity  constitutes    a 
dose;  a  little  milk  to  be  swallowed  before 
and  after. 

The  alcoholic  solution  referred  to  is  formed 
by  adding  8  drops  croton  oil  to  1  fluid  ounce 
rectified  spirit  of  wine  (90  per  cent.) 

5414.  Gregory's  Powder.      Mix  to- 
gether  6     drachms    calcined     magnesia,    3 
drachms  powdered  rhubarb,   and   1   drachm 
powdered  ginger.     (Sec  No.  5211.) 

5415.  Remoussin's    Anti-Syphilitic 
Gargle.     Take  1   ounce  of  a  decoction  of 
black  nightshade  and  hemlock,  and  3  grains 
bichloride  of  mercury. 

5416.  Ricord  and  Favrot's  Capsules 
of   Copaiba.      Take  270    grammes     (4167 
grains  J  balsam  of  copaiba,  60  grammes  (926 
grains)    neutral   pepsin,    12    grammes    (185 
grains)  subnitrate  of  bismuth,  and  18.  gram- 
mes (277^  grains)  calcined  magnesia.     This 
is  sufficient  for  600  gelatine  capsules.       Dose, 
from  15  to  18  capsules  a  day. 

5417.  Ricord  and  Favrot's  Capsules 
of  Copaiba  and  Tar.     Take  220  grammes 
(3395|  grains)  balsam  of  copaiba,  20  gram- 
mes   (308£    grains)  Norwegian  tar,    and   15 
grammes   (23H    grains)   calcined    magnesia. 
To  make  400  gelatine  capsules.     Dose,    15 
every  day. 

5418.  Hamburg  Tea.      This  formula 
for  Hamburger  Thee  is  given  by  Hager.     Mix 
together  8  parts  senna  leaves,  4  parts  manna, 
and  1  part  coriander. 

5419.  Persian  Balsam.     This  is  also 
known  under  the  names  of  Traumatic  Elixir, 
Balm  of  the  Innocents,  and  Baume  du  Com- 
mandcur.     Digest  1  ounce  angelica  root  and 
2  ounces  St.  John's  wort,  for  8  days  in  5 
pints  80  per  cent,  alcohol.     Strain,  and  digest 
with   1   ounce    each  gum  myrrh   and    gum 
olibanum.     Then  add  6  ounces  each  balsam 
of  tolu    and   gum  benzoin ;   macerate  for  2 
weeks ;  then  filter. 

5420.  Grahame's  Elixir  of  Bismuth. 
Dissolve  10  minims  oil  of  orange  flowers,  1 
drop  oil  of  cinnamon,   1   drop  oil  of  cloves, 
and  2  drops  oil  of  anise,  in  li  fluid  drachms 
deodorized    alcohol;    add    2    fluid    drachms 
syrup,  and  shake  the  mixture  well.     Dissolve 
136  grains  aminonio-citrate  of  bismuth  in  2 
fluid    ounces    distilled  water    and  li    fluid 
ounces  rose-water,  adding  sufficient  aquu  am- 
monia to  produce   a  perfect   solution,     Mix 
the  two  solutions,  add  1|  fluid  ounces  alcohol, 
and,  after  standing  for  a  short  time,  filter  un- 
til  perfectly  clear ;  if  not  bright,  add  about 
2  fluid  drachms  more  alcohol.      This  is  a  fiiio 


PATENT  AND    PROPRIETARY   MEDICINES. 


preparation,     each    tea-spoonful    containing 
about  2  grains  of  bismuth  salt. 

5421.  Lugol's  Iodine  Solution.     This 
consists  of  1  part  iodine  dissolved  in  2  parts 
iodide  of  potassium   and  20  parts  water.    The 
solution  of  this  strength  is  the  one  generally 
understood  as  Lugol's  solution. 

5422.  Iodine   Solution  for  External 
Use.     Lugol  devised  two  other  solutions  of 
different  degrees  of  strength  from  the  one 
given  in  No.  5421.     As  follows  : 

Rubefacient  solution,  containing  1  part  io- 
dine to  2  parts  iodide  of  potassium  and  12 
parts  water. 

Caustic  solution,  consisting  of  1  part  iodine, 

1  part  iodide  of  potassium,  and  2  parts  water. 

5423.  Camphorated  Dover's  Powder. 
Pulverize  5   drachms    camphor  with    ether, 
add  5  drachms  prepared  chalk,  5  drachms 
pulverized  liquorice,  and  17  grains  sulphate 
of  morphine.     Dose,   from    1  to  10    grains, 
used  in  all  kinds  of  fevers,  and  as  an  ano- 
dyne. 

5424.  Davis'  Neutralising   Cordial. 
Take   8  ounces  rhubarb,  2  ounces  each  saf- 
fron, cardamoms,  nutmeg,  and  carbonate  of 
soda;  2  pounds  white  sugar,  and  2  ounces 
essence  of  peppermint,  •with  sufficient  brandy 
and  water  to  make  up  to  2  pints.    Dose,  1  to 

2  tea-spoonfuls. 

5425.  German   Tea   for  the  Chest. 
The  compound  known  as  German  Brust-Thee 
is  composed  of  the  following  ingredients,  cut 
up  small  and  mixed  together  :  Take  4  ounces 
marsh-mallow  root.  1&  ounces  liquorice-root, 
i  ounce  Florentine  orris  root,  2  ounces  colt's 
foot  leaves ;  1  ounce  each  red  poppy  flowers, 
mullein  flowers,  and  star  anise  seed. 

5426.  Frey's    Vermifuge.      Take     1 
ounce  castor  oil,  1  ounce  aromatic  syrup  of 
rhubarb,  30  drops  oil  of  Baltimore  wormseed, 
and  5  drops  croton  oil. 

5427.  Velpeau's  Erysipelas  Lotion. 
Dissolve  1  ounce  sulphate  of  iron  in  1  pint 
water.     Apply  to  the  part  affected  every  2  or 

3  hours. 

5428.  Procter's  Vermifuge.    To  expel 
stomach  worms  from  young  children.     Mix 
16  grains  santonin  with  2  fluid  ounces  fluid 
extract  of  pink-root  and  senna.    Dose,  for  a 
child  2  years  old,   1  tea-spoonful  night  and 
moming,  until  purging  takes  place. 

5429.  Laurence's  Hemorrhage  Solu- 
tion.    Dissolve  2  drachms  chloride  of  iron  in 
1  fluid  ounce  water.     Apply  with  a  brush, 
to  prevent  gangrene  and  arrest  hornorrhage. 

5430.  Laurence's   Styptic  Solution. 
If  the  solid  perchloride  of  iron  be  kept  in  a 
bottle,   a  small  portion  deliquesces  after   a 
time,  forming  a  thick  brown  liquid.     This, 
applied  to  a  bleeding  surface  by  means  of  a 
brush  of  spun  glass,  arrests  the  flow  of  blood 
almost  immediately. 

5431.  Monsel's  Styptic  Solution. 
This  consists  of  a  solution  of  subsulphate  of 
iron,  and  is  applicable  for  the  same  purpose 
as  Laurence's  hemorrhage  solution.  (See  No. 
5429.)  The  preparation  of  the  solution  of 
subsulphate  of  iron  is  thus  given  in  the  U.  S. 
Ph.  Mix  510  grains  sulphuric  acid  and  780 
grains  nitric  acid  with  \  pint  distilled  water ; 
heat  to  the  boiling  point,  and  add,  k  part 
at  a  time,  12  troy  ounces  sulphate  of  iron,  in 
coarse  powder,  stirring  after  each  addition 


until  effervescence  ceases.  Boil  the  solution 
until  nitrous  vapors  are  no  longer  perceptible, 
and  the  color  assumes  a  deep  ruby  tint. 
When  nearly  cold,  add  sufficient  distilled 
water  to  make  up  to  12  fluid  ounces. 

5432.  Patterson's  Emulsion  of  Pump- 
kin-Seeds.    This  is  a  good  preparation  lor 
expelling  tape-worms.    Take  2  ounces  pump- 
kin seeds,  peel  and  pound  to  a  paste  with  1 
ounce  sugar;    then  add  by  degrees  8  fluid 
ounces  water.     The  whole  to  be  taken  in  2  or 
3  draughts,  at  short  intervals,  fasting.    Dr. 
H.  S.  Patterson  has  prescribed  this  repeatedly 
with  success. 

5433.  left's  Dental  Anaesthetic.  Mix 
1  fluid  ounce  each  tincture  of  aconite  root, 
purified    chloroform,    and    alcohol,    with    6 
grains  morphia.    Used  to  diminish  the  pain 
in  extracting  teeth,  by  applying  two  plugs  of 
cotton,  moistened  with    the  liquid,   to    the 
gums  around  the  tooth  for  1  or  2  minutes.    It 
must  not  be  swallowed. 

5434.  Parrish's  Quinine  Pills.     Place 
20  grains  sulphate  of  quinia  on  a  slab,  drop 
upon  it  15  minims  aromatic  sulphuric  acid, 
triturating  it   with   a  bone  spatula  until  it 
becomes  a  thick  paste.     Then  divide  rapidly 
into  the  required  number  of  pills.    A  3-grain 
pill  made  in  this  manner  will  not  be  incon- 
veniently large. 

5435.  Grimault's    Matico    Injection. 
The  matico  injection,  used  by  Grimault,  of 
Paris,  for  gonorrhoea,  is  prepared,  according 
to  Bjoerklund,  by  dissolving  4  grains  sulphate 
of  copper  in  8  ounces  infusion  of  matico.   The 
8  ounces  of  infusion  are  made  from  k  ounce 
matico. 

5436.  Storm's  Specific.    Take  2  ounces 
sweet  spirits  of  nitre,  li  drachms  oil  of  cu- 
bebs,  2  ounces  balsam  of  copaiba,  1  drachm 
oil  of  turpentine,  20  drops  oil  of  cinnamon, 
3  ounces  mucilage  of  gum-arabic,  and  suffi- 
cient tincture  of  cochineal  to   color.     This 
preparation  is  preferred  by  many  to  the  cap- 
sules. 

5437.  Milhau's   Emulsion   of    Cod- 
Liver  Oil.     Take  1  fluid  ounce  syrup  con- 
taining sufficient  saccharate  of  lime  to  repre- 
sent 6  grains  of  the  hydrate  of  lime ;  5  fluid 
ounces  water,  9  fluid  ounces  cod-liver  oil,  and 
6  drops  essential  oil  of  almonds.    Make  into 
an  emulsion. 

5438.  Bumstead's  Opium  Injection 
for  Gonorrhoea.     An  injection,  composed  of 
1  scruple  extract  of  opium,  1  fluid  ounce  gly- 
cerine and  3  fluid  ounces  water,  passed  into 
the  urethra    after    every  passage   of  urine, 
affords  relief  in  local  pain,  and  diminution  of 
discharge. 

5439.  Eicord's  Gonorrhoea  Injection. 
Take  20  grains  each  sulphate  of  zinc  and  ace- 
tate of  lead,  and  4  fluid  ounces  rose-water. 
The  bottle  to  be  well  shaken  before  using. 

5440.  Condy's  Fluid.  Dissolve  J 
drachm  permanganate  of  potassa  in  1  pint 
water.  This  is  an  excellent  lotion  for  burns, 
ulcers,  and  suppurating  surfaces,  relieving  the 
pain  and  removing  the  fetid  odor. 

5441.  Dewees' Tincture  of  Guaiacum. 
Digest  for  a  few  days  4  ounces  powdered 
gum-guaiac,  li  drachms  carbonate  of  soda 
(or  of  potassa),  and  1  ounce  powdered  allspice, 
in  1  pint  dilute  alcohol,  Add  1  or  2  drachms 
volatile  spirit  of  ammonia  to  every  4  ounces 


4:76 


PATENT  AND    PROPRIETARY  MEDICINES. 


of  the  tincture.  To  be  administered  in  doses 
of  1  tea-spoonful  in  a  little  sweetened  milk, 
or  in  sherry  wine,  morning,  noon  and  night, 
in  cases  of  suppressed  menses.  This  is  an  ex- 
cellent and  well-tried  remedy. 

5442.  Powell's  Cough  Balsam.    Mix 
together  2  drachms  syrup  of  tolu,   1   ounce 
paregoric  elixir,  and  2  ounces  liquorice  juice. 

5443.  Steer's  Opodeldoc.     I.  Kectified 
spirit,  1  quart ;  castile  soap,  5  ounces ;  cam- 
phor, 2i  ounces;  oil  of  rosemary,  2i  drachms; 
oil  of  origanum,  5  drachms;  weaker  ammo- 
nia, 4  ounces ;  digest  till  dissolved,  and  pour 
while  warm  into  wide-mouthed  bottles. 

II.  Kectified  spirits,  8  pints;  white  soap, 
20  ounces ;  camphor,  8  ounces ;  water  of  am- 
monia, 4  ounces ;  oil  of  rosemary,  1  ounce ; 
oil  of  horsemint,  1  ounce;  dissolve  the  soap 
in  the  spirit  by  a  gentle  heat,  and  add  the 
other  ingredients.  Bottle  whilst  warm. 

5444.  Folk's     Antacrid     Tincture. 
This  alterative  has  been  found  a  valuable 
remedy  in  secondary  syphilis  and  other  dis- 
orders.  Macerate  for  7  days  1  ounce  powdered 
guaiac,  1  ounce  Canadian  balsam,  and  2  fluid 
drachms  oil  of  sassafras,  in  8  fluid  ounces  al- 
cohol.    Filter,  and  add  1  scruple  corrosive 
sublimate.     Dose,  20  drops  in  wine  or  sweet- 
ened water,  night  and  morning. 

5445.  Hufeland's    Pectoral   Elixir. 
Take  3  parts  saffron,  4  parts  each  benzoin, 
myrrh,  gum-ammoniac,  aniseseed,  and  puri- 
fied liquorice-juice;  8  parts  each  sneezewort 
root,  Florentine  orris-root,  and  squill-bulbs; 
macerate  for  a  week  in   93  parts  rectified 
spirit,  stirring  frequently,  then  filter. 

5446.  Hufeland's   Aperient    Elixir. 
Eeduce  to  coarse  powder  4  parts  each  of  aloes, 
myrrh,    and    gum-guaiacum ;    add    4    parts 
bruised  rhubarb-root,  2  parts  bruised  saffron, 
8  parts  carbonate  of  potassa,  8  parts  muriate 
of  ammonia,  48  parts  spirit  of  horse-radish 
root,  and  144  parts  distilled  water.    Macerate 
the  ingredients  for  a  few  days,   frequently 
stirring,  then  filter.     (Hager.) 

5447.  Hufeland's  Anticatarrh  Elixir. 
Take  60  parts  extract  of  blessed-thistle,  20 
parts  extract  of  bitter-sweet,  dissolve  them  in 
480  parts  fennel  water  and  60  parts   bitter- 
almond  water.    Dose,  60  drops  4  times  a  day. 
(Eager.') 

5448.  Meyer's  Water  of  Life.    Take 
18  parts  fresh  myrtle-berries,  12  parts  orange- 
peel,  8  parts  cinnamon,  2  parts  galanga-root, 
2  parts  zedoary-root,  and  1  part  cardamoms. 
Reduce  them  by  braising  and  cutting,  and  di- 
gest them  for  3  days  with  frequent  agitation, 
in  600  parts  rectified  spirit  and  680  parts  water; 
then  strain  with  pressure,  and  let  it  settle; 
decant  the  clear,  filter  it,  and  add  120  parts 
white  sugar.     (Hager.) 

5449.  Elixir  of  Bromide  of  Potassi- 
um.    Dissolve  1  ounce  bromide  of  potassium 
and  1  ounce  sugar  in  1  pint  simple  elixir ;  add 
20  minims  solution  of  oil  of  orange  and  10 
minims  of  solution  of  oil  of  bitter  almonds, 
and  filter;   color  with  cochineal  color.    The 
officinal  formula  for  preparing  bromide  of  po- 
tassium is  given  in  No.  4198. 

5450.  Hufeland's  Infant  Powder. 
Take  2  ounces  valerian  root ;  3  ounces  orris 
root;  1  ounce  aniseed;  2  drachms  saffron,  all 
in  powder,  and  2  ounces  carbonate  of  mag- 
nesia. 


5451.  Granville's    Counter-irritant 
Lotions.     These  consist  of  three  ingredients, 
viz. :  strong  water  of  ammonia  (specific  grav- 
ity .872)  more  than  3  times  the  strength  of 
officinal  liquor  ammonia;  of  spirit  of  rose- 
mary, made  by  infusing  2  pounds  of  the  fresh 
tops  of  rosemary  in  8  pints  alcohol  for  24 
hours,  and  distilling  7  pints ;  and  of  spirit  of 
camphor,  composed  of  4  ounces  camphor  dis- 
solved in  2  pints  alcohol. 

The  lotion  is  prepared  of  two  different 
strengths ;  the  milder  lotion  consists  of  4 
drachms  of  the  ammonia,  3  drachms  of  the 
spirit  of  rosemary,  and  1  drachm  of  the  cam- 
phor spirit. 

The  stronger  lotion  contains  5  drachms  of 
the  ammonia,  2  of  the  spirit  of  rosemary,  and 

1  of  the  camphor.     The  milder  is  generally 
sufficient  to  produce  full  vesication  in  from  3 
to  10  minutes.    The  stronger  is  seldom  used 
except  in  apoplexy,  and  to  produce  cauteriza- 
tion. 

5452.  Startin's  Borax  and  Glycerine 
Lotion.     For  sore  lips,  chapped  hands,  &c. 
Take  5  drachm  borax,  %  fluid  ounce  glycerine, 
and  7k  fluid  ounces  rose-water. 

5453.  Brainard's  Solution  for  Exter- 
nal Use.     Dissolve  16  grains  lactate  of  iron 
in'2  fluid  drachms  distilled  water. 

5454.  Birch's  Pills  for  Habitual  Con- 
stipation.    Take  \  drachm  alcoholic  extract 
of  rhubarb,  24   grains  extract  of  taraxacum, 
and  2  grains  sulphate  of  quinine.    Mix  to- 
gether and  make  into  12  pills.     One  to  be 
taken  either  on  rising  in  the  morning  or  at 
dinner  time,  or  even  at  both  periods  when 
the  constipation  is  very  obstinate.      This  is  a 
very  gentle  stomachic   and  tonic  evacuant, 
particularly  useful  for  the  delicate. 

5455.  Da  Costa's  Chronic  Constipa- 
tion Pill.     Take  1  grain  podophyllin,  1  grain 
extract  belladonna,  5  grains  capsicum,  and  20 
grains  powdered  rhubarb;   mix  and    divide 
into  20  pills.      One  pill  to  be  taken  3  times  a 
day. 

5456.  Birch's     Constipation      Pill. 
Take  12 i  grains  compound   extract  of  colo- 
cynth    and  40   grains   extract    of    henbane. 
Mix  and  divide  into  20  pills.     This  is  an  ex- 
cellent pill  for  occasional  use,   especially  for 
constipation  in  old  age. 

5457.  Ricord's  Copaiba  and  Pepsine 
Pills.     Take  11  £  drachms  balsam  of  copaiba, 
2k  drachms  neutral  pepsine,  31   grains  nitrate 
of  bismuth,  and  46  grains  calcined  magnesia. 
Divide  into  100  capsules.      Administer  15  to 
18  daily. 

5458.  lame   Juice   and    Glycerine. 
Lime  (or  lemon)  juice,  k  pint.     Heat  in  a 
porcelain  mortar  to  near  the  boiling  point, 
and  add  gradually  rose  water,   elder-flower 
water,  and  rectified  spirit,  of  each  2  ounces. 
Agitate  the  whole  well  together.     After  24 
hours'  repose,  decant  or  filter  through  calico 
or     muslin,    then    add    pure    glycerine,    2i 
ounces;  oil    of  lemons,    k   drachm.      Again 
agitate  them  together  for  some  time,  and  by 
careful  manipulation  you  will  have  a  some- 
what milky  liquid ;  but  it   should  be  quite 
free  from  any  coarse  floating  matter  or  sedi- 
ment. 

5459.  Boudault's  Pepsine  Pills.     Mix 

2  drachms  and  34   grains   starchy    pepsine, 
with  sufficient  powdered  tragacanth  to  make 


PATENT   AND    PEOPRIETAEY   MEDICINES. 


477 


HO  pills.  Dose,  3  pills  before  and  3  after 
each  meal,  and  sometimes  3  during  the 
meal. 

5460.  Hogg's  Pepsine  Pills.     Mix  2 
drachms  34  grains  starchy  pepsine,  1  drachm 
17  grains  nitrate  of  bismuth,  and  38i  grains 
lactic   acid.      Make  into  100  pills,  and  coat 
with  sugar  and  balsam  of  tolu.    Dose,  4  to  12 
pills  1  hour  after  meals. 

5461.  Angelot's  Remedy  for  Ulcera- 
ted Gums.     Take  of  hypochlorite  of  lime, 
from  10  to  25  grains;  mucilage  of  gum-ara- 
bic, 1&  to  4  drachms;  syrup  of  orange  peel, 
li   to  2  drachms.      Mix  thoroughly.     This 
mixture  is  employed  as  a  lotion  to  the  ulcera- 
ted gums. 

5462.  Angelot's  Pastils  for  Bad 
Breath.  These  preparations  are  better  adapt- 
ed than  liquids  for  carrying  on  the  person. 
Take  of  hypochlorite  of  lime,  7  drachms; 
sugar  flavored  with  vanilla,  3  drachms ;  gum- 
arabic,  5  drachms.  The  pastils  are  made  so 
as  to  weigh  from  10  to  11  grains.  2  or  3 
of  these  pastils  are  sufficient  to  remove 
from  the  breath  the  disagreeable  odor  pro- 
duced by  tobacco  smoke.  The  pastils  thus 
prepared  have  a  grey  color  and  become  quite 
hard. 

If  pastils  of  whiter  color  are  required  the 
following  substances  are  employed :  Take  of 
dry  hypochlorite  of  lime,  20  grains ;  pulver- 
ized sugar,  1  ounce;  gum  tragacanth,  16 
grains.  The  hypochlorite  of  lime  is  tritura- 
ted in  a  glass  mortar,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
water  is  poured  upouit ;  it  is  then  left  to  repose, 
decanted,  and  a  second  quantity  of  water 
added ;  the  two  liquids  are  filtered,  and  the  gum 
and  sugar  added  so  as  to  form  a  paste.  This 
is  divided  into  pastils  weighing  from  12  to  16 
grains.  If  it  is  desired  to  aromatize  the 
paste,  1  or  2  drops  of  any  essential  oil  may  be 
added  to  the  sugar  and  gum  before  the  paste 
is  formed. 

5463.  Santonin   Lozenges.      Take  5 
troy  ounces  white   sugar  in  powder,  £  troy 
ounce  fine  starch,  10  grains  finely  powdered 
tragacanth ;  the  whole  well  mixed  with  the 
white  of  5  eggs  previously  beaten  to  a  dense 
froth  ;  place  in  a  porcelain  dish  over  the  wa- 
ter-bath, and,  with  constant  stirring,  keep  at  a 
temperature  not  exceeding  100°  Fahr.  until 
a  sample  taken  from  the  mixture  no  longer 
runs  from  the  spatula.      An  intimate  mixture 
of   50    grains    powdered  santonin    and    100 
grains  powdered   sugar  is  incorporated  with 
the  mass,  and  the  whole,  by  means  of  a  syr- 
inge, formed  into  100  lozenges,  each  contain- 
ing \  grain  of  santonin.       They  are  depos- 
ited  on  smooth  or  waxed  paper,   and  when 
hard  are  to  be  placed  between  cotton-wadding 
and  protected  from  the  light. 

5464.  duesneville's  Ferruginous  Pow- 
der.    Bicarbonate  of  soda,  4  parts;  tartaric 
acid,  7  parts ;  pure  sulphate  of  iron,  4  parts ; 
sugar,  8  parts.     Powder  each  fine,  then  mix 
and  keep  the  powder  in  a  well-corked  bottle. 
Dose,  1  spoonful  in  6  or  7  ounces  of  sweet- 
ened water. 

5465.  Tronchin's     Cough     Syrup. 
Powdered  gum-arabic,  8  ounces ;  precipitated 
sulphuret   of  antimony,   4  scruples ;  anise,  4 
scruples ;   extract  of  liquorice,  2  ounces ;  ex- 
tract of  opium,   12  grains ;   white  sugar,  2 
pounds.     Mix,  and  form  lozenges  of  6  grains, 


one  of  which  is  to  be  taken  occasionally  in 
catarrh  and  bronchial  affections. 

5466.  Pierquin's      Cough     Syrup. 
Kermes  mineral,   2  grains ;    gum-arabic,     1 
drachm ;  syrup,  5  ounces.    Mix.      A  spoonful 
occasionally  when  expectoration  is  difficult. 

5467.  Kermes   Mineral.     Dissolve  23 
troy  ounces  carbonate  of   soda  in   16  pints 
boiling  water ;  add  1  troy  ounce  finely  pow- 
dered sulphuret  of  antimony,  and  boil  for  an 
hour.    Filter  rapidly  into  a  warm  earthen 
vessel,  cover  closely  and  cool  slowly.      After 
24  hours  decant  the  fluid,  drain  the  precipi- 
tate on  a  filter,  wash  it  with  cold  water  (pre- 
viously boiled),  and  dry  without  heat.     Keep 
in  a  well-stopped  bottle,  protected  from  the 
light.     (  U.  S.  Pli.)     This  is  the  oxysulpnuret 
of  antimony. 

5468.  Rousseau's  Laudanum.     Dis- 
solve  12  ounces  white  honey  in  3  pounds 
warm  water,  and  set  it  aside  in  a  warm  place. 
"When  fermentation  begins  add  to  it  a  solution 
of  4  ounces  selected  opium  in  12  ounces  wa- 
ter.    Let  the  mixture  stand  for  a  month  at  a 
temperature  of  86°  Fahr. ;  then  strain,  filter, 
and  evaporate  to  10  ounces;   finally  strain 
and    add  4k  ounces  proof  alcohol.      Seven 
drops  of  this  preparation  contain  about  1  grain 
of  opium. 

5469.  Bonnamy's  Dentifrice.      Take 
prepared  chalk,  1  part;  burned  hartshorn,  1 
part;   hydrate  of  alumina,  1  part;   perfume 
with  oil  of  cinnamon.     This  is  an  excellent 
dentifrice. 

5470.  Extract  of  Milk.      Condensed 
milk  is  thus  prepared :  Take  10,000  parts  fresh 
cows'  milk,  50  parts  white  sugar,  and  2  parts 
pure  carbonate  of  soda.     Place  them  in  a  por- 
celain vessel,  and,  with  constant  stirring,  eva- 
porate to  the  consistence  of  a  thick  extract, 
either  in  a  vacuum  or  by  the  heat  of  a  vapor 
bath  of  140°  to  160°  Fahr.     One  part  of  the 
extract  will  represent  10  parts  of  fresh  milk. 
(Hager.) 

5471.  Milk  Powder.     Take  10,000  parts 
fresh  cows'  milk,  2  parts  dry  caustic  potassa, 
and  2  parts  borax.      Evaporate  these  in  a 
vacuum   to  about  2000  parts.     Then  mix  in 
thoroughly  50  parts  precipitated  phosphate  of 
lime,  15  parts  table  salt,  100  parts  powdered 
gum-arabic,  and  200  parts  powdered  sugar. 
Evaporate  the  whole  to  a  dry  powder  at  a 
heat  of  95°  to  110°  Fahr.     (Hager.) 

5472.  Schwarz's  Liniment  for  Scalds 
and  Burns.     Take  16  parts  linseed  oil,  8 
parts  white  of  egg,  and  1  part  tincture  of 
opium;  mix  them  thoroughly  by  trituration 
with  2  parts  acetate  of  lead.    Spread  upon 
lint  and  apply  to  the  wound.     (Hager.} 

5473.  Hungarian  Liniment.    Pulverize 
5  parts  cantharides,  20  parts  each  mustard 
seed,  black  pepper,  and  camphor;  macerate 
for  2  days  in  200  parts  wine  vinegar,  then  add 
400  parts  rectified  spirits.     Strain  with  pres- 
sure, and  filter.     (Hager.) 

5474.  Eland's  Ferruginous  Pills. 
Take  equal  weights  of  sulphate  of  iron  and 
carbonate  of  potassa ;  make  into  a  mass  with 
mucilage  of  tragacanth  and  powdered  liquorice 
root. 

5475.  Castillon's  Powders.  Take  1 
drachm  each  sago,  jalap,  and  tragacanth,  all 
in  powder;  1  scruple  prepared  oyster  shell, 
and  sufficient  cochineal  to  color.  Boil  1 


478 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


drachm  of  this  mixture  in  a  pint  of  milk,  and 
use  the  decoction  as  a  diet  m  chronic  bowel 
affections. 

5476.  Goulard's  Cerate.  This  is  the 
same  preparation  as  the  cerate  of  subacetate 
of  lead  of  the  U.  S.  Pharmacopoeia.  Mix  4 
troy  ounces  melted  white  wax  with  7  troy 
ounces  olive  oil.  When  it  begins  to  thicken, 
gradually  pour  in  2|  fluid  ounces  solution  of 
subacetate  of  lead,  stirring  constantly  with  a 
wooden  spatula  until  cool.  Then  mix  in  30 
grains  camphor  dissolved  in  1  fluid  ounce  olive 

Gondret's  Ammoniacal  Oint- 
ment.    Take  32  parts  lard  and  2  parts  oil  of 


oil. 
5477. 


sweet  almonds, 
heat,  and  pour 
mouthed  bottle. 


Melt  together  by  a  gentle 
the  mixture  into  a  wide- 
Add  17  parts  of  a  solution  of 


ammonia  of  25°  Baume",  and  mix  thorough- 
ly until  cold.  Keep  it  in  a  cool  place,  and 
in  a  bottle  with  an  accurately  fitting  stopper. 
It  will  vesicate,  or  raise  a  blister  under  the 
skin  in  10  minutes  if  properly  prepared. 


M 


edical  Receipts.  The  scope 

_  of  this  work  does  not  allow  of  the 
insertion  of  much  beyond  general  and  speci- 
fic remedies  for  ailments  of  e very-day  occur- 
rence; it  being  understood  that,  in  all  serious 
cases,  the  guidance  of  a  physician  is  indispen- 


of  iodine,  and  let  it  diy ;  after  which  apply  a 
little  citrine  ointment.  ( See  No.  4947.)  When 
the  eruption  is  on  an  exposed  part,  a  wash 
composed  of  1  drachm  corrosive  sublimate,  2 
scruples  white  vitriol  (sulphate  of  zinc),  3 
drachms  sal-ammoniac,  2  drachms  salt,  and  3 
ounces  sugar  of  lead,  mixed  with  1  pint  soft 
water,  may  be  used  alternately  with  the  tinc- 
ture of  iodine. 

5483.  Salt  Rheum  from  Photographic 
Chemicals.      Make    a    salve    by    steeping 
queen  of  the  meadow  root  over  a  slow  heat  in 
fresh  hog's  lard  for  from  2  to  6  hours — the 
longer  the  more  powerful  the  salve.     Apply 
this  to  the  eruptions  as  often  as  convenient, 
and  in  a  short  time  there  will  be  a  decided 
improvement  and  a  cure  will  be  effected  in 
from  1  to  6  weeks.     If  the  stomach  or  blood 
should  seem  out  of  order,  take  "Winchester's 
hypophosphites  of  lime  and  soda.    Use  this 
medicine  and  no  other,  as  it  acts  without  fail 
and  to  the  point,  not  being  in  any  way  inju- 
rious.    Avoid  using  either  iron  or  mercury,  as 
they  do  no  good  and  are  very  apt  to  do  in- 
jury.    Where  the  disease  is  not  hereditary  a 
cure  will  be  effected  in  a  short  time ;  where  it 
has  become  a  chronic  difficulty  the  cure  will 
be  slower.     When  buying  the  root,  ask  for 
queen  of  the  meadow  root.    Be  careful  not 
to   get  queen's  root,  commonly   called   stil- 
lingia,  many  druggists  not  knowing  the  differ- 
ence. 

5484.  Baker's  Itch.     This  disease  is  of 
common  occurrence  on  the  hands  of  bakers ; 


sable.     Advice  and  directions  are  given  for  hence  the  vulgar  name.    The  treatment  is  as 


the  treatment  of  some  severe  cases  requiring 
prompt  action,  that  may  be  followed  with 
benefit  until  the  arrival  of  the  doctor.  No 
particular  school  of  medicine  is  adhered  to, 
the  efficacy  of  each  receipt  being  the  primary 
consideration  in  inserting  it.  The  list  includes 
many  popular  and  domestic  remedies,  together 
with  prescriptions  of  celebrated  and  leading 
physicians. 

5479.  To    Cure    Prairie   or    Seven 
Years'  Itch.     Use  plenty  of  castile  soap  and 
water,  and  afterwards  freely  apply  iodide  of 
sulphur  ointment;  or  take  any  given  quantity 
of  simple  sulphur  ointment  and  color  it  to  a 
light-brown  or  chocolate  color  with  the  sub- 
carbonate  of  iron,  and  perfume  it.    Apply 
this  freely ;  and,  if  the  case  is  severe,  admin- 
ister mild  alteratives  in  conjunction  with  the 
outward  application. 

5480.  Sulphur  Bath.    The  bath  may 
be  prepared  either  by  adding  1  ounce  sul- 
phuret  of  potassium  for  every  10  or-  12  gallons 
of  water  used,  or  1  ounce  sulphuret  of  cal- 
cium for  every  15  gallons  of  water.    The  sul- 
phur bath  is  a  powerful  remedy  in  every  de- 
scription of  skin  disease.    Leprosy  (the  most 
obstinate  of  all)  has  been  completely  cured 
by  it ;  the  common  itch  requires  only  1  or  2 
applications  to  eradicate  it;   all  scurfy  and 
moist  skin  affections,  &c.,  speedily  yield  to  its 


influence. 
5481. 


Benzine  for  Itch.     Benzine,  it  is 


said,  will  effect  a  cure  for  scabies  in  the  course 
of  half  an  hour,  after  which  the  patient 
should  take  a  warm  bath  for  30  minutes.  This 
has  been  highly  recommended. 

5482.  To  Cure  Salt  Rheum.  Wash 
the  part  affected  with  castile  soap  and  water, 
dry  with  a  soft  cloth ;  then  wet  with  tincture 


follows :  Frequent  ablution  in  warm'  water, 
keeping  the  bowels  open  with  saline  purga- 
tives, and  the  nightly  use  of  the  ointment 
given  in  No.  4957  will  generally  effect  a  cure. 
Salt  food  should  be  avoided  as  much  as  possi- 
ble, as  well  as  keeping  the  hands  covered  with 
dough  and  flour ;  the  latter  being  the  cause  of 
the  disease. 

5485.  Remedy    for    Tetter,    Ring- 
worm, and   Scald-Head.     Take  1   pound 
simple  cerate;  sulphuric  acid,  J  pound;  mix 
together,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

5486.  Remedy  for  the  Tetter.     Dis- 
solve 1  ounce  sulphuret  of  potash  in  1  quart 
of  cold  soft  water;  put  it  into  a  bottle  and 
keep  it  tightly  corked.     Bathe  the  eruption  5 
or  6  times  a  day,  with  a  sponge  dipped  ma  lit- 
tle of  this  solution.    If  the 

cold  weather,  repeat  the  treatment 
an  excellent  remedy. 

5487.  Remedy  for  Barber's  Itch  and 
Tetter.    A  simple  and  effectual  cure.    Moist- 
en the  part  affected  with  saliva  (spittle)  and 
rub  it  over  thoroughly  three  times  a  day  with 
the  ashes  of  a  good  Havana  segar.     Simple  as 
this  remedy  may  appear,  it  has  cured  the 
most  obstinate  cases.     ' 

5488.  To  Cure  Ring-worm.  To  1 
part  sulphuric  acid,  add  16  to  20  parts  water. 
Use  a  brush  or  feather,  and  apply  it  to  the 
parts  night  and  morning.  A  few  dressings 
will  generally  cure.  If  the  solution  is  too 
strong,  dilute  it  with  more  water ;  and  if  the 
irritation  is  excessive,  rub  on  a  little  oil  or 
other  softening  application ;  but  always  avoid 


tetter  reappear  ii 
eatment.    This  i 


soap. 
5489. 


Cure  for  Ring-worm.     Wash 


the  head  with  soft-soap  every  morning,  and 
apply  the  following  lotion  every  night:    1 


MEDICAL  .RECEIPTS. 


4:79 


drachm,  sub-carbonate  of  soda,  dissolved  in  £ 
pint  of  vinegar. 

5490.  To  Cure  Pimples  and  other 
Eruptions   of  the  Skin.     Never    tamper 
with  any   breakiug-out  on   the  skin ;    even 
though  it  be  a  single  red  spot,  do  not  apply 
to  it  so  simple  a  thing  as  water,  hot  or  cold, 
but  let  it  alone,  and  omit  a  meal  or  two  ;  if  it 
•ices  not  abate,  consult  a  physician.    If  one 
is  not  at  hand,  then  live  on  half  allowance 
until  it  disappears. 

5491.  Glyconine,  or  Glycerine  Var- 
nish  for    Cutaneous    Affections.      Take 
yolk  of  egg,  4  parts  by  weight;  rub  in  a 
mortar  with  5  parts  glycerine.    Applied  to 
the  skin  it  forms  a  varnish  which  effectually 
excludes  the  air,  and  prevents  its  irritating 
effects.     It  is  unalterable  (a  specimen  having 
laid  exposed  to  the  air  for  3  years  unchanged), 
and  is  quickly  removed  by  water.     These 
properties  render  it  serviceable  for  erysipelas 
and  cutaneous  affections,  of  which  it  allays 
the  action.     It  is  also  very  valuable  for  sooth- 
ing the  irritation  resulting  from  burns. 

5492.  Cure  for  Eruptions  of  the  Skin. 
Take  2  ounces  rasped  sarsaparilla  root,   li 
ounces  solanum  dulcamara  (bitter-sweet,  or 
woody     nightshade),     li    ounces    mezereon 
bark,  i  ounce  rasped  guaiacum  wood,  and  i 
ounce  sassafras  bark.     Pour  on  these  1  quart 
boiling  water,  let  it  stand  24  hours,  and  then 
boil  away  slowly  to  1^  pints;  press,  strain, 
and  add  2  nounds  sugar  and  1  ounce  diluted 
spirits  of  wine.     Take  a  wine-glassful  3  times 
a  day  with  1  grain  precipitated  gulphurct  of 
antimony. 

5493.  Treatment  of  Sprains.     The 
great  remedy  is  rest;  when  severe,  rest  for 
days,  to  save  weeks;  the  best  treatment  is 
warm  fomentations  at  the  time  of  accident,  to 
prevent  or  reduce  the  swelling  and  pain,  and 
arnica,  applied  by  means  of  rags,  to  prevent 
pain  and   give   strength  to  the  part.      The 
tincture  of  arnica  is  the  preparation  used.    If 
the  skin  is  not  broken,  about  20  to  30  drops, 
or  even,  in  severe  cases,  60  drops  may  bo  add- 
ed to  a  wine-glassful  of  water.     If  the  skin  is 
broken,    or    any    abrasion    is    present,    the 
strength  of  the  tincture  must  bo  considerably 
reduced ;  from  5  to  10  drops  will  then  be  suf- 
ficient,  and  if  any  redness  or  inflammation 
occurs  in  or  about  the  sprain,  in  consequence 
of  using  the  lotion,  leave  it  off  at  once  and 
use  only  cold  water.    A  firm  bandage  will  be 
useful  to  support  the  part.    "Walking  should, 
for  a  considerable  time,  be  only  sparingly  in- 
dulged in  after  a  severe  sprain. 

5494.  Remedy  for  a  Sprain  or  Bruise. 
"Wormwood   boiled  in  vinegar,   and   applied 
hot,  with  enough  cloths  wrapped  around  to 
keep  the  sprain  moist.    This  is  an  invaluable 
remedy. 

5495.  Sprains    of   the    Wrist    and 
Ankle.     As  soon  as  possible  after  the  acci- 
dent, get  a  muslin  bandage  1  or  2  yards  long, 
and  2  or  3  inches  wide ;  wet  it  in  cold  water, 
and  roll  it  smoothly  and  firmly  around  the  in- 
jured part.     Keep  the  limb  at  rest,  exposed 
to  the  air,  and  continually  damp  with  cold 
water.     The   sooner  after  the  accident    the 
bandage  is  applied,  the  less  pain  and  swelling 
there  will  be ;  but  if  pain  becomes  excessive, 
care  must  be  taken  to  slightly  loosen  the  ban- 
dage. 


5496.  Sprains  of  the  Muscles  of  the 
Back.     Take  of  Canada  turpentine,  A  ounce ; 
soap  liniment,  6  ounces;  and  1   drachm  of 
laudanum.    Mix,  and  rub  well  in  before  a  hot 
fire. 

5497.  Sprain  in  the  Back.     The  first 
thing  is  rest;  take  night  and  morning  15  or 
20  drops  of  the  balsam  of  copaiba.     If  the 
part  is  inflamed,   apply  cold  water  cloths. 
Let  the  bowels  be  kept  gently  open  by  aperi- 
ents.     "When  the  inflammation  is  gone,  rub 
the  part  with  stimulating  liniment.     (See  No. 
4888.) 

5498.  Treatment  of  Scratches.     Do 
not  neglect  them.     "Wash  them  in  cold  water; 
close  them  as  much  as  you  can,  and  cover 
with  diachylon  plaster.     If  there  is  inflamma- 
tion, apply  a  bread  poultice,  or  one  of  slippery 
elm. 

5499.  To  Extract  Splinters.     Thorns 
and   splinters  finding  their  way  under  the 
skin  frequently  give  considerable  pain,  and, 
unless  extracted,  the  annoyance  may  be  very 
great,  as  inflammation  will  in  all  probability 
ensue,  which  is  the  process  nature  adopts  for 
getting  rid  of  the  cause  of  irritation.     If  the 
splinter  or  thorn  cannot  be  immediately  ex- 
tracted, for  which  purpose  a  needle  will  be 
found  in  most  cases  a  sufficient  surgical  in- 
strument,  linen  dipped  in  hot  water  ought 
to  be  bound  around  the  place,  or  the  part  may 
be  bathed  in  hot  water.     In  the  event  of  in- 
flammation, which  may  probably  issue  on  the 
production  of  an  ulcer,  the  steam  of  hot  water 
should  be  applied,  and  afterwards  a  poultice 
of  bread  and  milk. 

5500.  Treatment  of  Cuts.     The   divi- 
ded parts  should  be  drawn  close  together,  and 
held  so  with  small  pieces  of  strapping  or  ad- 
hesive plaster  stretched  across  the  wound,  or 
by  the  application  of  collodion.     If  the  part 
be  covered  with  blood,  it  should  be  first  wiped 
off  with  a  sponge.    "When  the  wound  is  large, 
and  the  parts  much  exposed,  a  good  method 
ia  to  sew  it  up.    The  application  of  a  little 
creosote  will  generally  stop  local  bleeding,  pro- 
vided it  be  applied  to  tho  clean  extremities  of 
the  wounded  vessels.   A  good  way  is  to  place 
a  piece  of  lint,  moistened  with  creosote,  on 
the  wound  previously  wiped  clean,  or  to  pour 
a  drop  or  two  of  that  liquid  upon  it.     Friar's 
balsam,  quick-drying  copal  varnish,  tincture 
of  galls,  copperas  water,  black  ink,  &G.,  are 
popular  remedies  applied  in  the  same  way. 
A  bit  of  the  fur  plucked  from  a  black  beaver 
hat  is  an  excellent  remedy  to  stop  the  bleed- 
ing from  a  cut  produced  by  the  razor  in  shav- 
ing.    For  light  cuts  with  a  knife,   or  any 
sharp  instrument,  the  Eiga  balsam    usually 
stops  the  bleeding  immediately.     (See  Lock- 
jaw. ) 

5501.  Artificial  Skin   for  Cuts,   &c. 
A  small  quantity  of  collodion  applied  with  a 
brush  to  a  cut  or  wound  will  produce  a  per- 
fect artificial  covering  which  is  more  elastic 
than  plaster,  and  sufficiently  insoluble  in  cold 
water. 

5502.  Traumaticine,  or  Water-proof 
Covering  for  Wounds.      This    article    is 
simply  a    solution  of   white  and    dry  pure 
unmanufactured  gutta-percha  in  bisulphuret 
of  carbon.    Dropped  on  a  wound  or  raw  sur- 
face, it  almost  instantly  forms  a  pliable,  wa- 
ter-proof, and  air-tight  defensive  covering  to 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


the  part  resembling,  in  appearance,  gold- 
beater's skin.  The  fetid  odor  of  the  bisul- 
phuret  is  lost  in  a  few  seconds.  Chloroform, 
which  has  an  agreeable  odor,  may  be  use 'I  as 
the  solvent,  but  is  very  much  more  expensive 
than  the  bisulphuret  of  carbon. 

5503.  Treatment  of  Bed-Sores.     Re- 
move the  excessive  discharge  by  gently  press- 
ing the  part  with  a  bit  of  cotton  wadding ; 
then  paint  the  sore  over  with  prepared  collo- 
dion (see  No.  4744),  using  a  soft  camel-hair 
pencil.      The  application   may  bo   repeated 
daily,  and  when  it  has  well  dried  place  a 
bit  of  soft  lint  or  cotton  wadding  over  the 
part  for  protection. 

5504.  Detergents.     Deterge  means  to 
cleanse.      Detergents  remove    unwholesome 
matters    adhering    to    and    obstructing   the 
vessels;  usually  applied  to  foul  ulcers,  &c., 
as  tincture  of  myrrh,  honey,   alum,  water, 
turpentine,  &c. 

5505.  Treatment  of  Ulcers.    An  ulcer 
is  an  injury  done  to  the  flesh,  from  which 
issues  matter,  or  some  kind  of  discharge,  with 
more  or  less  pain  and  inflammation.    The 
common  ulcer  should  be  kept  clean  and  cool, 
and  protected  from  the  atmosphere,  especially 
in  frosty  or  cold  weather.    It  should  be  wash- 
ed now  and  then  with  warm  soap-water.     Put 
upon  it  a  little  lint,  wet  occasionally  with 
salt  and  water,  and  put  over  it  the  black 
salve.     (See  No.  4971.)     Perhaps  the  best 
dressing  is  the  saturnine  cerate.     (See  No. 
4968.)      Poultices  made  of  the  oak  bark  or 
sumach  bark  may  be  used  alternately. 

5506.  Treatment  of  Severe  Ulcers. 
Sometimes  ulcers  are  very  irritable,  tender, 
and  painful,  and  discharge  a  thin  acrid  fluid. 
They  should  be  steamed  every  night  with  a 
bitter    decoction,    and    occasionally    washed 
with  an  infusion  of  chamomile  flowers,  or 
a  strong  decoction  of  wild  cherry  bark,  with 
a  little  spirit.     Apply  a  poultice  of  slippery 
elm,  mixed  with  a  strong  decoction  of  poplar 
bark,  and  a  trifle  of  salt.     Repeat  as  required. 
If  the  ulcer  or  ulcers  are  indolent,  steam  as 
before,  and  apply  the  cancer  plaster  (see  No. 
5047,)  with  only  a  trifle  of  the  white  vitriol 
mixed  with  it;   or,  sprinkle  the  ulcer  with 
powdered  blood-root.     Sometimes  ulcers  be- 
come very  much  inflamed,  and  assume  a  livici 
color ;   they  are  covered  with  small  vesicles 
or  blisters,   as  in  mortification.    "Wash  the 
ulcer  with  tincture  of  myrrh,  and  apply  a 
poultice  made  of   charcoal,  yeast,    slippery 
elm,  ginger,  and  a  minute  portion  of  tincture 
of  cayenne.      Bear  it  as  long  as  possible 
Then  apply  the  saturnine  cerate.     (See  No 
4968.) 

5507.      Beach's  Remedy  for  Ulcers. 
The  following  is  recommended  by  Dr.  Beach 
Take  sweet  clover  tops  and  stalks,  burdock 
leaves,  and  parsley,  a  handful  of  each ;  ge 
the  strength  out  by  boiling ;  strain,  and  add  '. 
pound  of  resin  and  J  pound  of  fresh  butter 
simmer  until  of  a  proper  consistence.    A  cole 
water  cloth  constantly  applied  is  a  good  rem 
cdy.    Put  a  little  cerate  on  the  ulcer  previ 
ously.      Attend   to  the    general    health    by 
cleansing  the  stomach  and  bowels,  and  then 
giving  tonics. 

5508.  To  Disinfect  and  Deodorize 
Foul  Ulcers.  Permanganate  of  potassc 
disinfects  rapidly  the  most  fetid  ulcers,  in 


he  proportion  of  2  scruples  of  the  'salt  to 
ounces  of  water  as  a  lotion  or  injection. 

'he  most  favorable  method  is  to  cover  the 
wound  with  lint  soaked  with  that  substance, 
and  to  place  above  this  a  layer  of  raw  cotton, 

he  latter  having  the  property  of  filtering  the 
air,  and  to  retain  the  germs  which  determine 

utrid  fermentation.     In  cancers  of  the  womb 

t  is  necessary  to  repeat  the  injections  several 

imes  a  day, 

5509.  Ulcers  in  the  Mouth.    If  the 
ulcers  are  not  of  a  syphilitic  origin,  a  local 
wash    of  carbolic  acid  or  permanganate  of 

iotassa  will  speedily  cure  them  ;  say  1  part  of 
,cid  or  permanganate  to  100  of  water.  If 
hey  are,  however,  syphilitic,  the  wash  of 
jarbolic  acid,  perhaps  2  or  3  times  as  strong, 
n  combination  with  internal  treatment,  will 
)e  found  beneficial ;  the  wash  may  be  used  3 
imes  a  day. 

5510.  Treatment  of  Running1  Sores 
on  the  Legs.     Wash  them  in  brandy,  and 
apply  elder  leaves,  changing  twice  a  day. 

Dhis  will  dry  up  all  the  sores,  though  the 
egs  were  like  a  honey-comb.  Or,  poultice 
them  with  rotten  apples.  But  take  also  a 
rarge  once  or  twice  every  week. 

5511.  Fine   Clay   as   a  Dressing  to 
Sores.      Dr.    Schreber,    of    Leipdc,   recom- 
mends the  use  of  clay  as  the  most  energetic, 
most  innocent,    simple,   and  economical  of 
palliative  applications  to    surfaces  yielding 
oul    and  moist    discharges.      He  moreover 
;onsiders  that  it  has  a  specific  action  in  ac- 
3elerating  the  cure.      Clay  softened  down  in 
water,  and  freed  from  all  gritty  particles,  is 
laid,  layer  by  layer,  over  the  affected  part. 
If  it  becomes  dry  and  falls  off,  fresh  layers  are 
applied  to  the  cleansed  surface.     The  irrita- 
ting secretion  is  rapidly  absorbed  by  the  clay, 
and  the  contact  of  air  prevented.      The  cure 
thus    goes  on  rapidly.     This  clay   ointment 
has  a  decisive  action  in  cases  of  fetid  pers- 

Eiration  of  the  feet  or  armpits.  A  single 
lyer  applied  in  the  morning  will  destroy 
all  odor  in  the  day.  It  remains  a  long 
time  supple,  and  the  pieces  which  fall  off  in 
fine  powder  produce  no  inconvenience. 
(Brit.  Med.  Journ.)  "We  can  corroborate  Dr. 
Schreber's  observations,  having  used  fine 
clay  poultices  for  several  years,  chiefly, 
however,  in  cases  of  local  inflammation  re- 
quiring the  application  of  cold.  Bags  wet  in 
water,  or  Goulard  water,  so  rapidly  become 
dry  and  hot  that  the  benefit  from  the  cold 
application  is  completely  lost.  There  is  no 
dirt  when  the  clay  is  enveloped  in  a  piece  of 
fine  linen,  and  is  not  too  fluid  in  consistence. 
(Braitliwaitc.') 

5512.  Treatment  of  Burns.     In  regard 
to  the  treatment  of  bums  there  is  a  great  di- 
versity of  opinion,  scarcely  any  two  surgeons 
agreeing  as  to  the  remedies.     All  of  them  are 
doubtless  valuable,  but  there  is  one  which 
has  a  great  reputation  (namely,  carron   oil, 
see  No.  5513).    The  great  objection  to    it  is 
its  offensive  odor,  rendering  an  entire  hospi- 
tal ward  disagreeable.     In  all  cases  of  burns 
and  scalds,  it  is  necessary  to  observe  that,  if 
fever  should  ensue,  laxative  medicines  ought 
to  be  given;  as  castor  oil,  or  salts  and  senna. 

5513.  Carron  Oil.     This  is   composed 
of  equal  parts  linseed  oil  and  limewater,  and 
should  be  well  shaken  before  using. 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


481 


5514.     Treatment  of  Recent  Burns. 

When  recently  inflicted,  nothing  tends  more 
decidedly  to  soothe  or  deaden  the  suffering 
than  cold  water;  the  burnt  part  should, 
therefore,  be  immediately  placed  in  cold  wa- 
ter, or  thin  cloths  dipped  in  cold  water  should 
be  applied  and  frequently  renewe£  over  the 
injured  surface.  After  the  lapse  of  a  short 
time,  when  the  cold  fails  to  relieve,  rags  dip- 
ped in  carron  oil  (see  No.  5513).  are,  to  be 
substituted  for  the  water,  care  being  taken 
to  keep  the  rags  moist  with  the  oily  mixture 
until  the  burn  heals ;  this  is  the  main  point 
in  the  treatment ;  the  rag  or  linen  must  not 
be  removed  or  changed.  The  carron  oil  may 
be  applied  from  the  first  if  it  is  at  hand ;  but, 
cold  water  being  nearly  always  to  be  had, 
will  be  found  very  grateful  until  assistance 
arrives. '  A  large  bottle  of  carron  oil  should 
be  kept  in  every  nursery  cupboard,  or  in 
every  house,  in  a  place  easy  of  access,  a  large 
label  being  affixed  to  it,  with  plain  direc- 
tions. 

5515.  Treatment  of  Superficial 
Burns.  When  the  burn  is  very  superficial, 
simply  inflaming  or  vesicating  the  part,  cov- 
ering it  up  with  flour,  and  then  placing  a 
layer  of  cotton  over  it,  so  as  to  exclude  the 
air,  makes  a  very  comfortable  dressing.  An- 
other method  consists  in  applying  cold  wa- 
ter; and  another,  warm  water  covered  with 
oiled  silk  and  a  bandage.  Glyconine  or  gly- 
cerine varnish  (see  No.  5491)  is  also  a  valua- 
ble remedy.  Lard,  deprived  of  salt,  and  sim- 
ple cerate,  make  pleasant  applications. 

5516.  Gross'  Treatment    of  Burns. 
The  profession  is  indebted  to  Prof.  Gross  for 
the  introduction  of  white  lead  and  linseed  oil 
in  the  treatment  of  burns.    It  is  one  of  the 
very  best  applications  which  can  be  used, 
effectually    excluding    the    air,    and    being 
always  grateful  to  the  patient.    In  all  cases, 
no  matter  whether  merely  the  skin  or  the 
deeper    structures  are  involved,  white  lead, 
rubbed  up  with  linseed  oil  to  the  consistence 
of  paste  or  paint,  and  placed  on  with  a  brush, 
will    be  found    productive    of   great    relief. 
There  does  not  appear  to  be  any  risk  from 
the    constitutional    influence    of  the    lead, 
though  it  has  been  suggested,  to  counteract 
any  tendency  of  this  kind,  that  the  patient 
should  take  occasionally  a  little  sulphate  of 
magnesia. 

5517.  Burns  and  Scalds.    Every  family 
should  have  a  preparation  of   flaxseed  oil, 
chalk,  and  vinegar,  about  the  consistency  of 
thick  paint,  constantly  on  hand  for  burns  and 
scalds.    A  noted  retired  physician  states  that 
he  has  used  it  in  hospital  and  private  practice 
for  the  past  forty  years,  and  believes  that  no 
application  can  compare  with  it,  as  regards 
relief  of  pain  and  curative  results. 

5518.  Remedy  for  Scalding.    Apply  a 
poultice  of  slippery  elm  bark  and  milk,  and, 
when  the  inflammation  has  left,  apply  black 
salve.    (See  No.  4971.)    For  very  slight  burns, 
the  black  salve  alone  will  cure.    The  slippery 
elm  poultice  is  a  sovereign  remedy,  and  has 
effected  the  greatest  cures.    Dr.  Beach  relates 
a  case  of  severe  scalding,  in  which  a  poultice 
of  slippery  elm  bark  and  olive  oil  alone  very 
soon    arrested  the  inflammation  and    acute 
sufferings  of  the  patient,  to  the  astonishment 
wf  all  who  witnessed  the  cure. 


5519.  Remedy  for  Scalded  Mouth. 

In  cases  of  scalding  the  mouth  with  hot  li- 
quids, gargle  with  a  solution  of  borax,  and 
then  hold  in  the  mouth  a  mucilage  of  slippery 
elm,  swallowing  it  slowly,  if  the  throat  also 
has  been  scalded ;  the  slippery  elm  bark  may 
be  mixed  with  olive  oil.  Some  recommend 
soap  liniment,  but  the  latter  must  not  be  swal- 
lowed. 

5520.  To  Cure  Slight  Burns.     When  a 
burn  is  only  trifling,  and  causes  no  blister,  it  is 
sufficient  to  apply  a  compress  of  several  folds 
of  soft  linen  upon  it,  dipped  in  cold  water  in 
which  has  been  dissolved  a  little  carbonate  of 
soda;  to  be  renewed  every  15  minutes  until  the 
pain  is  removed.     Dr.  Tissot  says,  in  cases  of 
blisters,  beat  up  an  egg  with  2  table-spoonfuls 
olive  oil  or  linseed  oil,  spread  it  on  soft  linen, 
and  apply  it  to  the  affected  part.     For  very 
slight  burns  or  scalds,  the  black  salve  alone  is 
sufficient  to  remove  the  pain  and  inflamma- 
tion.    (Sec  No.  4971.)      If  the  skn  is  not 
broken,  cover  the  part  with  a  layer  of  flour 
or  starch,  place  cotton  wool  over  it,  or  a 
linen  rag,  and  bind  it  over  lightly.      If  a 
blister  has  been  burst  or  cut,  use  a  cerate. 

5521.  Carbolic   Acid   for  Burns   or 
Scalds.     The  best  application  in  cases  of 
burns  or  scalds  is  a  mixture  of  1  part  of  car- 
bolic acid  to  8  of  olive  oil.     Lint  or  linen  rags 
are  to  be  saturated  in  the  lotion,  and  spread 
smoothly  over  the  burned  part,  which  should 
then  be  covered  with  oiled  silk  or  gutta-percha 
tissue,  to  exclude  the  air.     The  dressing  may 
be  left  on  from  2  to  3  days,  and  should  then 
be  reapplied,   exposing  the  burn  as  short  a 
time  as  possible  to  the  air. 

5522.  Oil  of  Brown  Paper.     Dip  a 
piece  of  thick  brown  paper  into  the   best 
salad  oil.     Set  the  paper  on  fire  upon  a  plate, 
and  the  oil  that  drops  from  it  is  a  good  remedy 
for  burns. 

5523.  Treatment  of  Burns  and  Dis- 
colorations  Caused  by  Gunpowder.    Dr. 
Davies,  in  a  recent  number  of  the  London 
Lancet,  states  that  he  has  found  the  following 
treatment  most  successful:  Smear  the  scorch- 
ed surface  with  glycerine,   by  means  of   a 
feather,  then  apply  cotton  wadding;  lastly, 
cover  with  oil  silk.   In  one  case  the  discolora- 
tion was  very  great,  the  patient  looking  more 
like  a  mummy  than  a  living  being.    It  entirely 
subsided  in  a  month  by  the  above  treatment. 

5524.  Nature  of  Rheumatism.    Kheu- 
matism  is  a  diseased  condition  of  the  fibrous 
and  muscular  tissues,  chiefly  affecting   the 
larger  joints;  the  heart  and  diaphragm  are 
also  liable  to  be  affected  by  it.     It  is  a  pro- 
moting cause  of  heart  disease.    The  principal 
forms  of  rheumatism  are  these:    When  the 
joints  about  the  back  and  loins  arc  affected 
the  complaint  is  known  as  lumbago ;  pains 
in  the  hip  joints  are  designated  sciatica. 

5525.  Causes  of  Rheumatism.     The 
causes  of  rheumatism  are  various.    Vicissi- 
tudes of  temperature  are  the  most  common ; 
occupying  a  damp  bed  for  a  single  night  is 
sufficient  to  engender  the  disease.     Such  per- 
sons as  blacksmiths,  who    are    exposed    to 
severe  changes  of  temperature,  are  generally 
victims  to  the  complaint.    Miners  and  per- 
sons employed  in  smelting-furnaces  are  often 
severe  sufferers.    There  is  likewise  a  hered- 
itary   tendency    to    the   malady,  'which   a 


4:82 


slight  cold  will  develop.  Kheumatism 
proceeds  from  a  vitiated  condition  of  the 
blood.  A  hereditary  taint  in  the  circulating 
fluid  may  be  developed  by  a  slight  cold,  but 
more  commonly  the  blood  becomes  vitiated 
through  mal-assimilation  and  a  faulty  diges- 
tive action.  The  precise  principle  of  the 
poison  engendered  has  not  yet  been  fully 
ascertained.  It  is  generally  believed  to  be 
lactic  acid. 

5526.  Premonitory    Symptoms     of 
Rheumatism.     An  attack  of  rheumatism  is 
imminent  when  a  stiffness  is  felt  in  the  joints, 
combined  with  a  dryness  of  the  skin  and  a 
burning  thirst.     The  variety  of  the  complaint 
of  which  these  signs  are  the  precursors  is 
termed  acute.    The  other  variety  is  chronic 
rheumatism.    The  latter  may  be  described  as 
an  aggravated  condition  of  the  former,  though 
some    persons    not    only  describe    them    as 
quite  distinct,   but  introduce  a  variety  be- 
tween them. 

5527.  Treatment   of  Rheumatism. 
In  the  early  stages,  when  there  is  much  thirst, 
a  refreshing  saline  drink  will  be  beneficial; 
cold  water  may  be  freely  allowed,  but  acid 
drinks  must  not  be  given  without  consulting 
the  doctor,  as  they  may  not  agree  with  his 
medicines.    A  correspondent  of  the  Medical 
Circular  vouches  for  the  relief  ho  has  expe- 
rienced in  the  liberal  use  of  lime  (or  lemon) 
juice,  while  laboring  under  the  paroxysms  of 
rheumatism.     By  persistent  use  of  the  above 
simple  acid  for  the  space  of  3  days,  avoiding 
all  stimulating  liquids,  the  most  confirmed 
rheumatism  will,  he  says,  relax,  and  the  tone 
of  the  muscular  and  nervous  system  will  be 
restored  to  its  usual  character. 

5528.  Local  Remedies  for  Rheuma- 
tism.    Unless  anything  else  is  ordered,  cot- 
ton-wadding  wrapped    around    the    swollen 
joints,  and  covered  with  oil  silk,  will  be  found 
grateful ;  a  kind  of  local  vapor  bath  is  pro- 
duced by  it.     If  this  is  not  agreeable,  rags 
may  be  dipped  in  a  saturated    solution  of 
nitre  in  water,  and  applied,  care  being  taken 
to  keep  them  moist ;  oiled  silk  should  be  ap- 
plied round  these  as  well. 

5529.  Treatment  of  Chronic  Rheu- 
matism. "When  rheumatism  becomes  chronic, 
the  general  health,  particularly  the  diet  in 
connection  with  the  digestive  powers,  must 
be  attended  to  with  great  care.    The  attacks 
often  arise  from  pure  debility,  and  will  then 
be  best  cured  by  tonics  and  good  food. 

5530.  Simple  Remedy  for  Rheuma- 
tism.    Bathe  the  parts  affected  with  water 
in  which  potatoes  have  been  boiled,  as  hot  as 
can  be  borne,  just  before  going  to  bed ;  by  the 
next  morning  the  pain  will  be  much  relieved, 
if  not  removed.     One  application  of  this  sim- 
ple remedy  has  cured  the    most    obstinate 
rheumatic  pains. 

5531.  Dover's  Rheumatic  Pow- 
der. Ipecacuanha  powder,  and  purified 
opium,  of  each  1  part ;  sulphate  of  potassa, 
8  parts;  triturate  them  together  to  a  fine 
powder.  Be  very  careful  to  reduce  the  opium, 
and  intimately  mix  with  the  rest.  This  pow- 
der is  recommended  by  Dr.  Dover  as  an 
effectual  remedy  for  rheumatism.  The  dose 
is  from  2  to  5  grains,  repeated.  Avoid  much 
drinking  after  taking  it,  or  it  might  act  as  an 
emotic. 


RECEIPTS. 

5532.      Remedy    for    Rheumatism. 

Take  3  ounce  each  black  cohosh  root,  golden 
seal,  and  nerve  powder ;  1  pint  of  ruin.  Mix. 
Dose,  i  table-spoonful  3  times  a  day.  The 
most  obstinate  cases  of  rheumatism  have 
yielded  to  the  above  simple  remedy. 

5533.  Speedy  Cure  for  Rheumatism. 
Dr.  K.  H.  'Boyd  states  that  he  cures  inflam- 
matory rheumatism  in  from  3  to  7  days  by 
the  following  method :  Give  first  a  full  emetio 
dose  of  tartar  emetic  (li  to  2  grains),  and 
when  this  hag  operated,  5  drops  laudanum 
and  5  drops  tincture  of  colchicum,  every  3 
or  4  hours,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  a  half- pint 
mixture,  containing  4  drachms  acetate  of  po- 
tassa,  every  hour.  When  the  patient  becomes 
very  hungry,  and  is  quite  free  from  pain, 
having  fasted  several  days,  ho  allows  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk  or  1  oyster  3  times  a  day, 
increasing  the  quantity  gradually  each  day. 

5534.  Remedy  for  Inflammatory 
Rheumatism.  Gelseminum,  administered 
in  doses  of  5  to  30  drops,  is  a  very  serviceable 
remedy.  The  dose  should  be  repeated  at  in- 
tervals until  the  pain  and  inflammation  .dis- 
appear. 

5535.  Rheumatic  Alterative.     Mace- 
rate for  3  or  4  days  i  ounce  each  colchicum 
seed  and  black  cohosh  root,  both  well  bruised, 
in  1  pint  best  rye  whiskey.     A  dessert-spoon- 
ful 3  times  a  day,  before  meals,  has  been 
found  a  valuable  remedy  in  chronic  rheuma- 
tism. 

5536.  Indian  Remedy  for  Rheuma- 
tism.     Macerate  the  following   ingredients 
for  a  few  days  in  1  quart  rye  whiskey  f  1  ounce 
bark  of  wahoo  root,  1   ounce   blood  root,  2 
ounces  black  cohosh  root,    £  ounce  swamp 
hellebore,  1  ounce  prickly  ash  bark,  and  1 
ounce  poke  root  cut  fine.     Dose,  1  tea-spoon- 
ful every  3  or  4  hours,  increasing  the  dose  as 
the  stomach  will  bear  it. 

5537.  Spanish  Cure  for  Chronic  and 
Syphilitic  Rheumatism.      Take  4  ounces 
sarsaparilla,  1  ounce  rasped  guaiacum  wood, 
2  ounces  extract  of  sarsaparilla,  i  ounce  crude 
antimony.    Tie  them  in  a  linen  rag  with  10 
drachms  English  walnut  hulls  (or  black  wal- 
nut), and  boil  in  3  pints  water  down  to  2  pints ; 
strain.    Dose,  a  wine-glassful  every  hour. 

5538.  Jackson's    Cure   for    Chronic 
Rheumatism.      1  drachm    cajeput  oil ;    % 
ounce  syrup  of  myrrh;  3J  ounces  syrup   of 
gum-arabic.     Dose,  1  tea-spoonful  3  times  a 
day. 

5539.  Caution  to  Painters.     Painters 
should  seldom  wash  their  hands  in  turpentine, 
as  the  practice,  if  persisted  in,  will  lead  to  the 
most  serious  results,  even  to  the  loss  of  power 
in  the  wrist  joints.    It  has  a  tendency  to  en- 
largo  the  finger   joints,   renders    the  hands 
more  sensitive  to  cold  in  winter,  and  lays  the 
foundation  of  rheumatism. 

5540.  Rheumatic  Decoction.    Virginia 
snake-root,  1  drachm ;  sarsaparilla  in  powder, 
6  drachms;  burdock  seed,  2  drachms;   poke 
root,  2  drachms;  wine-pine  bark,  2  drachms; 
cayenne  pepper,  \  drachm.     Powder  them, 
and  add  3  quarts  of  water.     Boil  down  to  2 
quarts.    A  cupful  2  or  3  times  a  day.    It  is 
most  valuable  in  chronic  rheumatism. 

5541.  Lumbago.      It  is  a  species   of 
chronic  rheumatism,  which  affects  the  muscles 
of  the  lower  part  of  the  back,  causing  great 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


483 


pain  and  stiffness.  The  patient  can  scarcely 
stir  without  having  the  most  piercing  pain. 
It  may  be  confined  to  one  side,  or  affect  the 
loins  generally.  Its  attacks  are  generally 
sudden,  immediately  after  or  in  stooping,  or 
rising  from  bed.  Lumbago  is  connected  with 
derangement  of  the  stomach,  bowels,  and  kid- 
neys. 

5542.  Remedy  for  Lumbago.    Recti- 
fied  oil  of  turpentine,  25  drops;    sulphuric 
ether,  1  scruple;   mucilage  of  gum-arabic,  3 
drachms ;  syrup  of  poppies,  1  drachm ;  rose- 
water,  li  ounces;  make  into  a  draught;  take 
at  bed-time. 

5543.  Remedy   for   a   Weak   Back. 
Take  a  beefs  gall,  pour  it  into  1  pint  alcohol, 
and  bathe  frequently. 

5544.  Remedy   for    Neuralgia.     A 
remedy  said  to  be  efficacious  consists  in  apply- 
ing bruised  horse-radish  to  the  wrist  on  the 
side  of  the  body  where  the  pain  is. 

5545.  Excellent  Remedy  for  Neural- 
gia.    A  remedy,  which  is  sometimes  instan- 
taneously successful,  is  mixing  equal  parts  of 
sweet  oil,  spirits  of  hartshorn,  and  chloroform ; 
shake  it  well,  and  before  time  is  allowed  for 
its  particles  to  separate,  wet  a  bit  of  rag  or 
lint,  place  it  on  the  painful  spot  for  about  a 
minute,  or  less  if  relieved  sooner,  but  hold  a 
handkerchief  on  the  lint,  so  as  to  confine  the 
volatile  ingredients ;  if  kept  on  too  long,  the 
skin  may  be  taken  off. 

5546.  Effective  Cure  for  Neuralgia. 
Apply  a  blister  of  Spanish  flies,  and  let  it  re- 
main until  it  draws  the  skin  red  (not  longer); 
then  take  it  off,  and  apply  a  morphine  powder. 
This  is  often  very  effectual. 

5547.  Jackson's  Neuralgia  Remedy. 
Llix  Ik  drachms  iodide  of  potassa,  15  grains 
Milphate   of  quinine,   1  ounce  ginger  syrup, 
and  2A  ounces  water.    Dose,  a  table-spoonful 
every  3  hours. 

5548.  Whitlow,  or  Felon.   The  severity 
of  the  inflammation  in  whitlow  varies  consid- 
erably ;  there  is  the  mild  form,  which  gener- 
ally yields  to  fomentation   with  hot  water 
cloths  or  poultices;   and  if  matter  forms,  if 
relieved  by  the  lancet,  it  speedily  heals ;  but 
there  is  a  much  more  formidable  affection,  in 
which  the  deep  textures  of  the  finger  are  in- 
volved, accompanied  by   severe  pain,  throb- 
bing, and  much  redness,  heat,  and  swelling. 
This  form  is  only  to  be  relieved  by  free  and 
early  incisions  with  the  lancet;  for  if  this  be 
neglected,  the  bones  will  become  affected,  and 
will  be  destroyed.     It  would  therefore  be  ad- 
visable to  submit  the  finger  to  the  inspection 
of  a  surgeon  when  it  does  not  easily  yield  to 
fomentations  or  a  poultice. 

5549.  Treatment  of  Whitlow.    Steam 
the  whole  hand  with  bitter  herbs  for  30  or  40 
minutes ;  bathe  it  frequently  in  strong  hot  lye 
water.     The  steaming  must  not  be  dispensed 
with.      Or:   Immerse  the  diseased  finger  in 
strong  lye  as  long  and  as  hot  as  can  be  borne 
several  times  a  day.    Apply  a  poultice  of  lin- 
seed and  slippery  elm,  with  a  little  salt  and 
brandy.  %  The  formation  of  matter  is  indi- 
cated by  a  small  white  spot  in  the  center  of 
the  swelling.      When  this  appears,  open  it 
with  the  point  of  a  large  needle  or  probe,  that 
the  matter  may  escape.     Repeat  if  necessary. 
If  proud  flesh  appears,  apply  the  vegetable 
caustic  or  chloride  of  potassium,  diluted.    A 


poultice  of  powdered  hops  is  very  effectual  to 
relieve  pain.  Apply  the  black  salve  (see  No. 
4971),  to  heal  it.  Attend  to  the  general  health, 
by  giving  aperients,  tonics,  and  nutritious 
cooling  diet. 

5550.  Simple  Cure  for  a  Felon.    As 
soon  as  the  parts  begin  to  swell  get  the  tinc- 
ture  of  lobelia,  and  wrap   the  part  affected 
with  cloth  saturated  thoroughly  with  the  tinc- 
ture, and  the  felon  is  dead.     An  old  physician 
says  that  he  has  known  it  to  cure  in  scores 
of  cases,  and  it  never  fails  if  applied  in  sea- 
son. 

5551.  Bone  Felon.     The  following  re 
ceipt  for  the  cure  of  bone  felon  is  given  by 
that  high  authority,  the  London  Lancet:  As 
soon  as  the  disease  is  felt,  put  directly  over 
the  spot  a  blister  of  Spanish  fly,  about  the  size 
of  the  thumb  nail,  and  let  it  remain  for  6 
hours,  at  the  expiration  of  which  time,  direct- 
ly under  the  surface  of  the  blister  may  be 
seen  the  felon,  which  can  be  instantly  taken 
out  with  the  point  of  a  needle  or  a  lancet. 

5552.  To  Cure  Felons.      Stir  J    tea- 
spoonful  water  into  1  ounce  Venice  turpentine 
with  a  rough  stick  until  the  mixture  appears 
like  granulated  honey.     "Wrap  a  good  coating 
of  it  round  the  finger  with  a  cloth.    If  the 
felon  is  only  recent,  the  pain  will  be  removed 
in  6  hours. 

5553.  Treatment  of  Boils.  "When 
these  appear,  suppuration  should  be  promoted 
by  poultices  of  bread  and  linseed  meal,  to 
which  a  little  glycerine  or  fat  or  oil  may  be 
added,  to  prevent  their  getting  hard.  When 
poultices  are  inconvenient,  exposure  to  the 
vapor  of  hot  water,  or  the  application  of 
stimulating  plasters,  may  be  adopted  instead. 
When  sufficiently  ripe,  the  boil  should  be 
opened  with  a  lancet,  the  matter  evacuated, 
and  the  wound  dressed  with  a  little  simple 
ointment  spread  on  a  piece  of  clean  lint  or 
linen.  The  diet  may  be  full  and  liberal  until 
the  maturation  of  the  tumor  and  the  discharge 
of  the  matter,  when  it  should  be  lessened, 
and  the  bowels  opened  by  some  saline  purga- 
tives, as  salts  or  cream  of  tartar.  When 
there  is  a  disposition  in  the  constitution  to 
the  formation  of  boils,  the  bowels  should  be 
kept  regular,  and  tonics,  as  bark  or  steel,  ta- 
ken, with  the  frequent  use  of  sea-bathing,  if 
possible. 

5554.  Carbuncle.      A  carbuncle    is   a 
species  of  boil,  but  larger,  and  much  more 
painful.     It  shows  debility  in  the  constitution. 
Carbuncles  are  very  dangerous,  and  medical 
advice  should  at  once  be  obtained. 

5555.  Astringents.      Substances   that 
constrict  the  animal  fibre,  and  coagulate  albu- 
men.     When  employed  to  check  bleeding, 
they  are  called  styptics.     The  principal  vege- 
table astringents  are  catechu,  kino,  galls,  and 
oak  bark;   the  principal  mineral  astringents 
are  sulphate  of  iron,  nitrate  of  silver,  chloride 
of  zinc,  sulphate  of  copper,  acetate  of  lead,  <tc. 

5556.  To  Stop  Bleeding.     If  a  man  is 
wounded   so   that  blood  flows,  that  flow  is 
either  regular  or  by  jets  or  spirts.     If  it  flows 
regularly,  a  vein  has  been  wounded,  and  a 
string  should  be  bound  tightly  around  below 
the  wounded  part,  that  is,  beyond  it  from  the 
heart.    If  the  blood  comes  out  by  leaps  or 
jets,  an  artery  has  been  severed,  and  the  person 
may  bleed  to  death  in  a  ft w  minutes ;  to  pro- 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


vent  which,  apply  the  cord  above  the  wound, 
that  is,  between  the  wound  and  the  heart.  In 
ease  a  string  or  cord  is  not  at  hand,  tie  the 
two  opposite  corners  of  a  handkerchief  around 
the  limb,  put  a  stick  between,  and  turn  it 
round  until  the  handkerchief  is  twisted  suffi- 
ciently tight  to  stop  the  bleeding,  and  keep  it 
BO  until  a  physician  can  be  had.  This  appli- 
ance is  called  a  tourniquet. 

5557.  To  Stop  the  Bleeding   from 
Leeches.     Make  a  ball  of  cotton  about  the 
size  of  a  pea ;  put  this  pellet  of  cotton  or  lint 
upon  the  wound ;  press  it  down  firmly ;  keep 
up  the  pressure  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.    Ee- 
move  the  finger  cautiously,  taking  care  to  let 
the  pellet  remain. 

5558.  Pancoast's  Styptic.    Take  car- 
bonate of  potash,  1  drachm ;  castile  soap,  2 
drachms ;  alcohol,  4  ounces.    Mix.   This  styp- 
tic has  been  found  preferable  to  the  persulphate 
of  iron  in  many  of  the  minor  cases  of  hemor- 
rhage, inasmuch  as  it  leaves  the  surface  of 
the  stump  in  a  healthy  condition,  and  does 
not  produce  the  thick  incrustation  so  often 
objectionable  after  the  application  of  the  iron. 

5559.  Styptic  Collodion.    This  is  made 
by  uniting  equal  parts  of  collodion  and  chlor- 
ide of  iron.    It  is  recommended  for  erysipelas. 

5560.  Ehrle's  New  Preparation   of 
Cotton     for     Stanching1     Hemorrhage. 
American  cotton  of  the  best  quality  should 
be  cleansed  by  boiling  it  for  an  hour  in  a  weak 
solution  of  soda  (about  4  per  cent.),  then  re- 
peatedly washed  in  cold  water,  pressed  out, 
and  dried.    By  this  process  it  will  be  perfectly 
cleansed  and  adapted  to  more  ready  absorp- 
tion.   After  this  it  should  be  steeped  once  or 
twice,  according  to  the  degree  of  strength 
required,  in  liquid  perchloride  of  iron,  diluted 
with  $•  water,  pressed,  and  thoroughly  dried 
in  the  air — neither  in  the  sun  nor  by  the  fire — 
then  lightly  pulled  out.    The  cotton  so  pre- 
pared will  be  of  a  yellowish-brown  color.    It 
must  be  kept  very  dry,  as  it  is  affected  by  the 
damp. 

5561.  Styptic   Paper.     A  mode   for 
carrying  about  chloride  of  iron  as  a  ready 
styptic  has  been  invented  in  Paris,  which  con- 
sists in  dipping  paper  in  a  decoction  of  1 
pound  benzoin  and  1  pound  alum  in  4  gallons 
water,  which  has  been  kept  boiling  for   4 
hours,  with  renewal  and  skimming.     The  pa- 
per is  left  in  the  filtered  solution  for  some  time 
until  saturated ;  it  is  then  dried,  and  painted 
over  with  a  neutral  solution  of  perchloride  of 
iron ;  this  is  then  dried,  folded,  and  wrapped 
in  an  impervious  cover. 

5562.  New  Styptic  Collodion.     Collo- 
dion, 100  parts;  carbolic  acid,  10  parts;  pure 
tannin,  5  parts ;  benzoic  acid,  5  parts.     Agi- 
tate until  the  mixture  is  complete.    This  pre- 
paration, which  has  a  brown  color,  leaves  on 
evaporation  a  pellicle  exactly  similar  to  that 
of  ordinary  collodion.     It  adheres  strongly  to 
the  tissues,  and  effects  the  instantaneous  co- 
agulation of  blood  and  albumen.     Tannin  ef- 
fects a  consistent  coagulation  of  the  blood, 
whilst  benzoic  acid  has  a  cicatrizing  action  on 
the  tissues. 

5563.  Spitting  of  Blood.     In  cases  of 
spitting  of  blood,  it  is  often  difficult  to  deter- 
mine whether  it  proceeds  from  the  internal 
surface  of  the  mouth,  from  the  throat,  from 
the  stomach,  or  fro»  the  lungs.    "When  the 


blood  is  of  a  florid  or  frothy  appearance,  and 
brought  up  with  more  or  less  coughing,  pre- 
ceded by  a  short  tickling  cough,  a  saltish 
taste,  anxiety,  and  tightness  across  the  chest, 
its  source  is  the  lungs.  The  blood  proceeding 
from  the  lungs  is  usually  of  a  florid  color,  and 
mixed  with  a  little  frothy  mucous  only.  It 
may  be  distinguished  from  bleeding  from  the 
stomach,  by  its  being  raised  by  hacking  or 
coughing,  and  by  its  florid  and  frothy  appear- 
ance; that  from  the  stomach  is  vomited  in 
considerable  quantities,  and  is  of  a  dark 
color. 

5564.  Treatment    for    Spitting    of 
Blood.     Moderate  the  discharge  of  blood  by 
avoiding  whatever  tends  to  irritate  the  body 
and  increase  the  action  of  the  heart.    A  low 
diet  should  be  strictly  observed,  and  external 
heat  and  bodily  exercise  avoided ;  the  air  of 
the    room   should    be  cool,   and    the    drink 
(which  should  consist  chiefly  of  barley-water, 
acidulated  with  lemon-juice),  taken  cold,  and 
the  patient  not  suffered  to  exert  his  voice. 
After  the  operation  of  a  little  gentle  aperient 
medicine,  as  lenitive  electuary,  or  an  infusion 
of  senna,  with  a  little  cream  of  tartar  dis- 
solved in  it,  take  10  drops  of  laudanum  and 
10  drops  of  elixir  of  vitriol  in  half  a  cupful  of 
cold  water.    If  there  is  no  cough,  the  lauda- 
num may  be  omitted.    A  little  salt  and  water 
given  will  often  check  spitting  of  blood,  when 
it  comes  on.    Put  the  feet  in  warm  water, 
and  give  as  above,  the  elixir  of  vitriol,  <tc. 
Give  also  ipecacuanha  powder  in  small  doses 
of  from  1  to  2  grains  every  4  hours. 

5565.  Bleeding  from  the  Nose.'    This 
may  be  «aused  by  violence,   or  may  arise 
from  an  impoverished  state   of   the    blood. 
"When  it  occurs  in  persons  of  middle  age  it  ia 
more  serious,  as  it  is  then  often  a  symptom 
of  some  other  disease.      The  bleeding  can 
generally  be  stopped  by  making  the  patient 
raise  both  his  arms  above  his  head,  and  hold 
them  there  for  some  time.     Sponging  with 
cold  or  iced  water  to  the  forehead  and  face, 
or  applying  a  towel  wet  with  cold  water  be- 
tween the  shoulders,  will,  in  most  cases,  suc- 
ceed.   The  application  of  a  strong  solution  of 
alum  or  iron-alum  to  the  inside  of  the  nostrils, 
or  plugging  the  nostrils  with  lint  or  cotton 
wool  soaked  in  the  solution,  m«ay  be  necessary 
if  the  bleeding  is  profuse.     The  health  of  per- 
sons subject  to  these  attacks  should  be  im- 
proved by  nutritious  diet,  animal  food,  with 
potatoes,  water-cresses,  and  fruit.    The  fol- 
lowing prescription  may  be  relied  on :  Tinc- 
ture of  steel,  2  drachms;  dilute  muriatic  acid, 
1  drachm ;  syrup  of  orange  peel,  1  ounce ; 
infusion  of  calumba,  7  ounces.     Mix.     For  a 
child,  1  table-spoonful  in  a  wine-glass  of  water 
before  meals;  for  an  adult  the  dose  may  be 
increased. 

5566.  To  Stop  Bleeding  at  the  Nose. 
Placing    a    small    roll    of   paper   or  muslin 
above  the  front  teeth,  under  the  upper  lip, 
and  pressing  hard  on  the  same,  will  arrest 
bleeding  from  the  nose,   checking  the  pas- 
sage of  blood  through  the  arteries  leading  to 
the  nose. 

5567.  Astringent   for    Leech-Bites. 
Dissolve  1  part  of  crystallized  perchloride  of 
iron  in  6  parts  of  collodion  very  gradually. 
A  drop  or  two  of  the  product  forms  an  ad- 
mirable styptic. 


MEDICAL   RECEIPTS. 


485 


5568.  Antispasmodics.       Medicines 
that  allay  spasms  and  other  pains.     Bark, 
opium,  camphor,  ether,   musk,  castor,    assa- 
fetida.  valerian,    and  chalybeates,  are   anti- 
spasmodics. 

5569.  Nervines  —  sometimes      called 
neurotics — are  substances  or  agents  •which  re- 
lieve disorders  of  the  nerves.    Antispasmod- 
ics, chalybeates,  and  vegetable  tonics  belong 
to  this  class. 

5570.  Treatment   of  Nervousness. 
The  cure  of  nervousness  is  best  effected  by 
restoring  the  healthy  action  of  the  stomach 
and  bowels,  and  by  the  use  of  proper  exercise, 
especially  in  the  open    air.      The   stomach 
should  not  be  overloaded  with  indigestible 
food,  and  the  bowels  should  be  occasionally 
relieved  by  the  use  of  some  mild  aperient. 
Abernethy's  injunction  to  a  nervous  and  dys- 
peptic lady,  "  Dismiss  your  servants,  madam, 
and  make  your  own  beds,"  should  be  recollect- 
ed by  all  as  a  proof  of  the  importance  that 
eminent  surgeon  attached  to  exercise.    'Va- 
lerian is  a  medicine  of  great  use  in  nervous 
disorders,  hysteria,  lowness  of  spirits,  restless- 
ness, and  diseases  of  the  bladder,  <fcc.    The 
common  dose  is  from  a  scruple  to  a  drachm, 
in  powder;    and    in    infusion    from   1  to   2 
drachms.     Its  unpleasant  flavor  may  be  neu- 
tralized by  the  addition  of  mace.     Assafoetida 
is    also  recommended.    Take  assafoetida,   1£ 
drachms;  water,  6  fluid  ounces.     Dose,  1  to 
3  table-spoonfuls  thrice  or  ofteuer,  daily.  But 
there  is  no  remedy  for  nervous  disorders  of 
every  kind,   comparable  to  the  proper  and 
constant  use  of  magnetic  electricity. 

5571.  Nerve  Powder.     Take  1  ounce 
each  of  scullcap,  valerian  and  catnip ;  and  cay- 
enne,  1   drachm ;  coriander  seeds,   \  ounce. 
Pulverize,  and  mix.     Take  1  tea-spoonful  in  a 
cupful  of  boiling  water,  leaving  room  for  milk 
and  sugar.     Eepeat  according  to  the  symp- 
toms.    This    powder  tranquillizes  the    most 
irritable  nerves  without  debilitating  and  dead- 
ening their  sensibility.   It  greatly  strengthens 
the  nerves. 

5572.  Nervous  Mixture.     Liquid  car- 
bonate  of  ammonia,    h  drachm;    compound 
tincture  of  cardamom,  i  ounce ;  oil  of  laven- 
der, 8  drops ;   mint  water,  3  ounces ;  mix, 
and  take  in  two  or  three  doses.     It  is  inval- 
uable. 

5573.  Nervous    Pill.     Assafoetida,   ex- 
tract of  hops,  carbonate  of  ammonia,  of  each 
1  ounce ; .  extract  of  valerian,  20  grains.     Dis- 
solve the  first  two  ingredients  over  the  fire, 
then  take  off,  and  add  the  others ;  mix  well, 
and  with  a  few  drops  of  the  oil  of  lavender, 
and  a  little  powdered  liquorice,   form   into 
pills.      Dose,    1   or  2  once  or  twice  a  day. 
Valuable  in  all  nervous  and  hysterical  dis- 
orders. 

5574.  Nervous  Tincture.    Compound 
tincture  of  bark,  2  ounces;  ammoniated  tinc- 
ture of  valerian,  Ik  ounces;  compound  tincture 
of  aloes,  k   ounce.     Mix.     Good  for  general 
weakness,  low  spirits,  and  nervous  irritabil- 
ity.    Two   tea-spoonfuls  twice  a  day.     (See 
No.  5570.) 

5575.  Mixture  of  Valerian  and  Car- 
bonate of  Ammonia.    An  excellent  remedy 
for  nervous  headache  and  depression  of  spirits. 
Mix  3  drops  oil  of  valerian  and  10  grains  car- 
bonate of   ammonia    with    Ik   fluid  ounces 


cinnamon  water  and  i  fluid  ounce  syrup. 
One-half  to  be  taken  every  4  hours. 

5576.  Remedy  for  Spasms.  Take  of 
acetate  of  morphia,  1  grain ;  spirit  of  sal- vola- 
tile and  sulphuric  ether,  of  each  1  fluid  ounce ; 
camphor  julep,  4  fluid  ounces.  Mix.  It 
should  be  kept  closely  corked,  in  a  cool  place, 
and  should  be  well  shaken  before  use.  Dose, 
1  tea-spoonful  in  a  glassful  of  cold  water  or 
wine,  as  required. 

5577.  Hypochondriasis,  or  Low 
Spirits.  Hypochondriacs,  low  spirits,  or 
"  blues,"  is  a  peculiar  state  of  the  mind,  ac- 
companied with  indigestion.  The  principal 
objects  of  treatment  are,  to  remove  the  indi- 
gestion, to  strengthen  the  body,  and  to  en- 
liven the  spirits;  and  one  of  the  best  plans 
with  which  we  are  acquainted  for  this  is 
constant  exercise  and  change  of  place,  with  a 
warm  bath  about  thrice  a  week ;  early  hours, 
regular  meals,  and  pleasant  conversation ;  the 
bowels  being  at  the  same  time  carefully  reg- 
ulated by  the  occasional  use  of  a  mild  pill, 
and  the  stomach  strengthened -by  some  appro- 
priate tonic  medicine. 

5578.  To  Dissolve  Quinine.     Sulphate 
of  quinine  (sometimes  called  simply  quinine) 
when  forming  a  part  of  a  fluid  mixture,  must 
be  dissolved  in  sulphuric  acid  before  com- 
pounding with    the  other    ingredients.      In 
most  of  the  fluid  receipts  which  contain  qui- 
nine, a  small  quantity  of  the  acid  is  prescribed 
solely  for  this  purpose  ;  it  should  be  added  to 
the  quinine  drop  by  drop,  and  only  sufficient 
used  to  make  a  perfect  solution. 

5579.  Remedy  for  Fever  and  Ague. 
Peruvian  bark,  2  ounces;    wild-cherrv  tree 
bark,  1  ounce ;  cinnamon,  1  drachm,  all  pul- 
verized ;  capsicum,  1  tea-spoonful ;  sulphur,  1 
ounce ;  port  wine,  2  quarts.    Let  stand  a  day 
or  two.    Always  buy  the  Peruvian  bark  and 
pulverize  it,  as  most  ready  pulverized  articles 
are  adulterated.     This  is  the  reason  why  more 

»cures  are  not  performed  by  it.  Dose,  a  wine- 
glassful  every  2  or  3  hours  in  the  day  until 
broken ;  then  2  or  3  a  day  until  all  is  used. 
This  mixture  will  be  found  an  infallible  cure 
for  intermittent  fever  and  fever  and  ague.  It 
removes  the  disease  when  all  other  means  fail, 
and  may  be  used  by  those  who  object  to  qui- 
nine. 

5580.  Cure  for  Ague.     To  5  tea-spoon- 
fuls water,  add  50  drops  tincture  of  gelsemi- 
num  and  10  grains  quinine.  Shake  well  before 
using.     Administer  1  tea-spoonful  in  a  wine- 
glass of  sugar  water  every  2  hours.     This 
medicine  has  a  tendency  to  affect  the  head 
and  vision,  and  produce  physical  prostration. 
"When    these  symptoms    become  developed, 
cease  the  doses,   and  the  effects  will    pass 
off,  leaving  the  patient  completely  restored. 
These  directions  must  be  adhered  to,  as  gel- 
seminum,  administered  after  its  effects  have 
become    apparent,    may    be    attended    with 
serious  consequences.     (See  No.  5578.)     This 
is  an  excellent  remedy. 

5581.  Dr.  Krieder's  Ague  Pills.  Take 
20  grains  quinine,  10  grains  Dover's  powder, 
(see  No.  5176),    10   grains   sub-carbonate   of 
iron  ;  mix  with  molasses  or  mucilage  of  gum- 
arabic,  and  divide  into  20  pills.     Dose,  2  each 
hour,  commencing  5  hours  before  the  chill 
should  set  in.     Then  take  one  night  and  morn- 
ing until  all  are  taken.     (See  No.  5584.) 


486 


MEDICAL   RECEIPTS. 


5582.  Quinine  Mixture  for  Children. 
For  small  children  nothing  is  better  than  5  or 
6  grains  dissolved  (see  No.  5578)  quinine  in 
a  Bounce  vial,  1  table-spoonful  of  white  sugar, 
then  fill  with  water.     Dose,  1  table-spoonful 
as  above. 

5583.  Caution  in  the  Use  of  Quinine. 
In  all  cases  where  quinine  is  to  be  adminis- 
tered, first  give  a  cathartic  to  cleanse  the 
stomach  and  bowels. 

5584.  Ague  Mixture.  Dissolve  20  grains 
quinine,  mix  it  with   1   pint  diluted  gin  or 
port-wine,  and  add  10  grains  Dover's  pow- 
der (see  No.  5176),  and  10  grains  sub-carbon- 
ate of  iron.     Dose,  a  wine-g}ass  each  hour 
until  the  ague  is  broken,  and  then  2  or  3  times 
a  day  till  the  whole  has  been  used.    This  is 
receipt  No.  5581,  in  a  liquid  form.    It  may  be 
used  when  the  pills  are  objectionable. 

5585.  Remedy  for  Cold  in  the  Head. 
Pollion,  of  Prance,  recommends  the  inhaling 
of  hartshorn  for  curing  colds  in  the  head.    The 
inhalation  by  the  nose  he  recommends  7  or  8 
times  in  5  minutes.     Spirits  of  camphor  may 
be  used  in  the  same  manner  with  beneficial 
results. 

5586.  Catarrh.      There  is   perhaps  no 
complaint  so  common  as  catarrh,  or  cold  in 
the  head ;  it  occurs  both  in  winter  and  sum- 
mer; and  it  is  generally  said  that  a  summer 
cold  is  more  difficult  to  get  rid  of  than  a  win- 
ter one.     The  attack  sets  in  with  pains  in  the 
limbs  and  back,   lassitude,  and  a  sense  of 
tightness  across  the  forehead,  repeated  sneez- 
ing, watery  and  inflamed  eyes,  and  increased 
discharge  from  the  nose ;  sometimes  there  is 
inflammation  of  the  throat  and  tonsils,  and 
an  eruption  of  vesicles  about  the  lips. 

5587.  To  Cure  Catarrh.       Remedies 
without  number  have  been  recommended  for 
catarrh,  but  few  are  better  than  the  old-fash- 
ioned plan — putting  the  feet  into  hot  water, 
giving  10  grains  of  Dover's  powder  (see  No. 
5176)  a  hot  drink,  and  plenty  of  blankets, 

5588.  Brown  Mixture.     Take  powder- 
ed extract  of  liquorice   and  powdered  gum- 
arabic,  of  each  2  drachms ;  hot  water,  4  fluid 
ounces ;  mix,  and  add  spirit  of  nitrous  ether, 
1    fluid   drachm;   antimonial    wine,    2  fluid 
drachms  ;  and  tincture  of  opium,  40  minims. 
A  table-spoonful  for  a  dose.    This  is  an  ex- 
cellent remedy  in  the  early  stages  of  catarrh  ; 
it  is  the  well-known  compound  liquorice  mix- 
ture of  the  Pharmacopoeia. 

5589.  Flaxseed     Tea.      Macerate    1 
ounce  flaxseed  and  £  ounce  braised  liquorice 
root  in  1  pint  boiling  water  for  2  hours,  in  a 
lightly  closed  vessel ;  filter,  and  add  1  fluid 
ounce  lemon  juice.     This  is  a  good  drink  in 
cases  of  catarrh. 

5590.  To    Believe    a    Cough.      The 
troublesome  cough  caused  by  an  accumula- 
tion of  phlegm  in  the  throat,  especially  in  the 
morning,    experienced    mostly    by    persons 
affected  with  chronic  catarrh,  can  be  relieved 
instantly  by  taking  a  tea-spoonful  of  the  fol- 
lowing mixture,  which  has  also  the  advantage 
of  being  harmless  to  the  stomach,  rather  im- 
proving the  appetite.     Put  into  an  8-ounce 
phial,    i  ounce  muriate  of  ammonia  and    | 
ounce  pulverized  gum-liquorice  ;  fill  the  phial 
nearly  full  with  hot  water,  and  shake  thor- 
oughly, to  prevent  the  liquorice  from  becom- 
ing solid;  shake  also  before  using. 


5591.  Hay  Fever.     This  very  peculiar 
disease  appears  generally  as  a  severe  attack  of 
catarrh,    with    asthmatic    symptoms    super- 
added.      The  lining  membrane  of  the  eyes, 
nose,  throat,  and   lungs  is  all  more  or  less 
affected.      The    patient    suffers  from  head- 
ache, sometimes  severe,  sneezing,  irritation  of 
the  nose  and  throat,  with  a  dry  harassing 
cough.      The  asthmatic  attacks  come  on  gen- 
erally towards  evening,  and  last  from  1  to  3 
hours,  causing  great  distress.      Hay  fever  is 
not  a  very  common  complaint,  and  only  at- 
tacks those  persons  who,  from  some  peculiar- 
ity   of  constitution,    are  susceptible   to  the 
causes  producing  it.      It  is  supposed  to  be 
caused  by    the    inhalation    of  the  pungent 
aroma  of  spring  grass  and  hay,  but  the  in- 
halation of  the  powder  of  ipecacuanha  will 
also  produce  it  in  certain  individuals.     In 
places  where  the  rose  is  largely  cultivated, 
similar  attacks  sometimes  occur;  it  is  then 
called  rose  fever  or  rose  catarrh. 

5592.  Treatment   of    Hay     Fever. 
The  best  treatment  for  hay  fever  is  change  of 
air,  to  the  sea-side  if  possible.     During  the 
attacks,  antispasmodics,  such  as  sal-volatile, 
ether,   or  an  emetic,  if  the  patient  is  able 
to  bear  it,  inhalations  of  hot  steam  medicated 
with  creosote,   carbolic   acid,    or  turpentine, 
will   be    found    useful.      When    the    attack 
passes  off  the  general  health   should  be  im- 
proved by  tonics,  diet,  <tc. 

5593.  Asthma.     This  disease  is  well 
known.     It  manifests  itself  in  temporary  fits 

i  of  difficult  breathing,  is  accompanied  with 
'  wheezing,  cough,  a  sense  of  suffocation,  and 
constriction  of  the  chest.  The  causes  are, 
hereditary  predisposition;  cold  and  moist 
atmosphere ;  sudden  changes  of  temperature ; 
intense  study ;  suppression  of  long  accus- 
tomed evacuations  ;  certain  fevers ;  irritation 
of  the  air  cells  of  the  lungs;  irritation  of  the 
stomach,  &c.  When  this  disease  is  attended 
with  expectoration,  it  is  called  humoral 
asthma;  and  when  there  is  no  discharge  it 
is  named  dry  asthma.  It  is  remarkable  that 
what  will  excite  the  disease  in  one  patient 
will  often  prove  a  means  of  relieving  it  in 
another. 

5594.  To  Alleviate    Asthma.      For 
moderating     the    asthmatic     paroxysm,     no 
agent  is  more  valuable  in  many  cases  than 
tobacco.    A  pipe  often  acts  as  a  charm,  and 
enables  the  patient  to  sleep  and  forget  his 
troubles.      In  others,  the  wearing  of  a  gauze 
veil  over  the  face  quite  prevents  the  effects  of 
the  evil.     It  is  most  important  to  see  that  the 
bowels  bo  freely  opened  at  the  commence- 
ment of  an  attack. 

5595.  Expectorants.      Medicines   that 
promote  the   secretion  of  the   tracheal   and 
bronchial  mucus.     According   to   Dr.    Good, 
true  expectorants  are  those  medicines  which 
rather  promote  the  separation  of  the  viscid 
phlegm  with  which  the  bronchia?  are  loaded, 
than  simply  soften  and  dilute   it ;    though 
these  are  also  treated  as    expectorants    by 
many  writers.     Numerous  articles  of  the  ma- 
teria  medica  have  been  denominated  expecto- 
rants, of  which  the  following  are  the  princi- 
pal :      Tartarized     antimony,     ipecacuanha, 
squills,  garlic,  assafetida,  ammoniacnm,    the 
oily  resins,   the  balsams  of  tolu  and    Peru, 
benzoin,  styrax,  benzole  acid,  the  fumes  of 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


4:87 


vinegar,  tar,  and  of  many  of  the  volatile  oils, 
and  the  smoke  of  tobacco  and  stramonium. 
Chlorine  and  ammoniacal  gases  have  also  been 
called  expectorants.  Medicines  of  this  class 
are  commonly  employed  in  pulmonary  com- 
plaints and  affections  of  the  air-tubes,  at- 
tended by  a  vitiated  state  of  the  mucus,  or 
an  imperfect  performance  of  the  natural  func- 
tions of  the  secretory  vessels.  (Cooley.)  Of 
all  classes  of  the  materia  medica,  none  are 
more  uncertain  in  their  action  than  expecto- 
rants. (  Pereira.)  The  act  of  ejecting  matter 
from  the  chest  is  called  expectoration. 

5596.  Bronchitis.     An  inflammation  of 
the  mucous  lining  of  the  bronchia,  or  smaller 
ramifications  of  the  windpipe.     In  its  milder 
form  it  is  commonly  called  a  cold  on  the 
chest.     The  usual  symptoms  are  hoarseness, 
dry  cough,  a  slight  degree  of  fever,  followed 
by  expectoration  of  mucus,  at  first  thin,  and 
afterwards  thick  and  copious.     In  the  severer 
forms  there  is  more  fever,  cough,  and  oppres- 
sion at  the  chest,  &c.    The  generality  of  cases 
of  bronchitis  yield  to    small    and    repeated 
doses  of  ipecacuanha  and  antimonial  diapho- 
retics, at  the  same  time  adopting  a  light  diet, 
and  keeping  the  bowels  open  with  mild  pur- 
gatives. 

5597.  How  to  Cure  a  Cold.    Dr.  G. 
Johnson,   Professor   of  Medicine  in    King's 
College,  London,  in  a  recent  lecture  gives  the 
following  cure  for  a  cold  :  On  the  whole,  the 
plan  which  combines  the  greatest  degree  of 
efficiency  with  universal  applicability,   con- 
sists in  the  use  of  a  simple  hot-air  bath,  which 
the  patient  can  have  in  his  own  bed-room. 
All  that  is  required  is  a  tin  spirit  lamp,  with 
a  sufficiently  largo  wick,   and  holding  suffi- 
cient spirit  to  burn  for  half  an  hour.     The 
patient  sits  undressed  in  a  chair  with  a  lamp 
between  his  feet,  rather  than  under  the  chair, 
care  being  taken  to  avoid  setting  fire  to  the 
blankets,  of  which  an  attendant  takes  two 
or  three,  and  folds  them  around  the  patient 
from  his  neck  to  the  floor,  so  as  to  inclose 
him  and  the  lamp,  the  hot  air  from  which 
passes  freely  around  the  body.     In  from  a 
quarter  to  half  an  hour  there  is  usually  a  free 
perspiration,  which  may  be  kept  up  for  a 
time  by  getting  into  bed  between  hot  blan- 
kets.    Headache,  pain  in  the  limbs,  and  other 
premonitory  indications  of  a  severe  cold,  may 
be  entirely  removed  in  the  course  of  half  an 
hour  by  the  action  of  the  hot-air  bath. 

Another  simple  and  efficient  mode  of  excit- 
ing the  action  of  the  skin  consists  in  wrapping 
the  undressed  patient  in  a  sheet  wrung  out  of 
warm  water,  then  over  this  folding  two  or 
three  blankets.  The  patient  may  remain 
thus  packed  for  an  hour  or  two,  until  free 
perspiration  has  been  excited. 

5598.  Cough  Pill.     Extract  of  hyoscy- 
arnus.  balm  of  gilead  buds,  with  pulverized  ipe- 
cacuanha or  lobelia,  and  balsam  of  fir,  of  each. 
•±  ounce ;  oil  of  anise  a  few  drops,  to  form  into 
common  sized  pills.    Dose,  1  or  2  pills,  3  or 
4  times  daily.    Dr.  Beach  says  he  endeavored 
for  more  than  25  years  to  obtain  a  medicine 
to  fulfill  the  indications  which  arc  effected  in 
this  cough  pill,  particularly  for  ordinary  colds 
and  coughs  ;  and  this  admirably  answers  the 
intention,  excelling  all  others.     It  allays  the 
irritation  of  the  mucus  membrane,  the  bron- 
chial tubes,  and  the  lungs,  and  will  be  found 


exceedingly  valuable  in  deep-seated  coughs 
and  all  diseases  of  the  chest. 

5  599.  To  Cure  a  Troublesome  Cough. 
2  or  3  table-spoonfuls  of  linseed,  n  small 
bunch  of  horehound ;  boil  to  a  jelly,  and 
strain.  Add  k  pound  sugar  candy,  J  pound 
honey,  -J-  pound  loaf  sugar.  First  boil  tho 
horehound  in  1  quart  water,  then  add  the 
strained  linseed  and  the  other  articles.  Sim- 
mer for  2  hours.  "When  cold,  add  of  chloro- 
dyne,  3  table-spoonfuls.  Bottle  it  and  cork 
tight.  A  sinalf  quantity  of  spirits  of  wino  or 
brandy  to  keep  it.  "When  the  cough  is  trou- 
blesome, take  a  table-spoonful.  This  is  an 
excellent  remedy. 

5600.  Pulmonary  Syrup.  Blood-root, 
boneset,  slippery  elm  bark,  coltsfoot,  elecam- 
pane, of  each  2  ounces  ;  white  root,  spikenard 
root,  of  each  4  ounces ;  comfrey  root,  poplar 
bark,  of  each  1  ounce ;  lobelia,  horehound, 
snake-root,  of  each  -J  ounce.  Pour  upon 
them  2  quarts  of  boiling  water ;  stir  well, 
add  1  pound  molasses,  and,  when  cool,  1  quart 
Holland  gin.  It  is  one  of  the  best  remedies 
for  asthma,  coughs,  hoarseness,  &c.  A  table- 
spoonful  every  hour,  or  a  wine-glassful  3 
times  a  day. 

5601.  Pulmonary  Balsam.  Hore- 
hound plant,  comfrey  root,  blood  root,  ele- 
campane root,  wild  cherry  bark,  spikenard 
root,  penny-royal  plant,  of  each  4  ounces. 
Pour  3  quarts  boiling  water  upon  them ;  in- 
fuse for  3  hours ;  then  heat  the  water  again, 
and  pour  it  upon  the  plants  to  infuse  5  or  6 
hours.  Sweeten  with  sugar  candy.  It  is 
very  serviceable  in  diseases  of  the  lungs, 
chronic  coughs ;  it  removes  constriction  of 
the  chest  by  promoting  expectoration.  Take 
half  a  small  tea-cupful  3  or  4  times  a  day,  or 
often er  if  necessary. 

5302.  Blood-Boot  Syrup.  Bruised 
blood-root,  2£  ounces ;  lobelia,  J  ounce ;  white 
sugar,  1£  ounces;  water,  li  pints;  gently 
simmer  half  an  hour,  till  it  thickens;  when 
cool,  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  paregoric  elixir. 
Take  a  table-spoonful  occasionally ;  for  a  child, 
a  tea-spoonful  or  less.  This  syrup  is  very 
valuable  in  chest  complaints,  bronchial  affec- 
tions, coughs,  and  difficult  breathing. 

5603.  Cough   Syrup.     Tincture  of  lo- 
belia, 1  ounce ;  Iceland  moss,  2  ounces ;  white 
poppy  capsules,  bruised,  2  ounces ;  pearl  bar- 
ley, 2  table-spoonfuls;  water,  2  quarts;  mo- 
lasses, 2  ounces.     Boil  down  to  3  pints,  and 
strain.     Dissolve  in  it  from  4  to  8  ounces  of 
sugar  candy.     It  effectually  allays  a  tickling 
cough.     A  table-spoonful  when  the  cough  is 
troublesome.      It  does    not  constipate,   like 
laudanum  and  paregoric. 

5604.  Cough.   Remedy.     Take  lobelia 
herb,  horehound,  boneset,  of  each  1  ounce; 
comfrey  root,    spikenard,   St.    Johns'    wort, 
poppy  capsules,  of  each  \  ounce.    Infuse  in  3 
pints  boiling  water  for  3  hours.     Strain  and 
add  J  pound  loaf  sugar  boiled  to  a  syrup. 
Add  a  wine-glassful  of  best  rum.     A  table- 
spoonful  is  a  dose.     This  is  a  valuable  receipt 
for  cough,  hoarseness,  <tc. 

5605.  To  Cure  a  Cold  with  a  Cough. 
Make  a  decoction  of  the  leaves  of  the  pine 
tree,  and  sweeten  with  loaf  sugar.     Drink  it 
freely,  warm,  before  going  to  bed,  and  cold, 
through  the  day.    It  is  a  certain  cure  in  a 
short  time. 


4:88 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


5606.  Inhalation  of  Cubebs  and  Car- 
bolic Acid.     Mix  together  £  fluid  ounce  tinc- 
ture of  cubebs  and  20  drops  liquid  carbolic 
acid.     Add  the  mixture  to  J  pint  hot  water  in 
an  inhaler,  and  use  every  3  or  4  hours,  taking 
full  respirations.     A  very  efficient  remedy  in 
dry  cough. 

5607.  Cough.  Mixture.     Take  muriate 
of  morphia,  %  grain ;  glycerine,  2  fluid  ounces. 
Mix.     Dose,  a  tea-spoonful  when  the  cough  is 
troublesome. 

5608.  Treatment  for  Ulcerated  Sore 
Throat.      Chlorate  of  potassa,  in  cases  of 
putrid  ulcerated  sore  throat,  has  been  used 
with  the  most  decisive  success.    Its  internal 
application  more  effectually  allays  thirst  and 
abates  fever  than  any  other  medicine;  and, 
when  applied  as  a  gargle  to  inflamed  or  ulcer- 
ated sore  throats,  it  has  been  found  to  disperse 
the  inflammation  and  cleanse  the  ulcers  more 
effectually  than  the  infusion  of  rose-leaves 
with  sulphuric  acid,  the  gargle  generally  re- 
sorted to  in  those  cases.    The  chlorate  of  po- 
tassa may  be  given  in  the  dose  of  from  20  to 
30  grains  in  a  half  glass  of  water,  3  or  4  times 
a  day.      For  the  purpose  of  gargling    the 
throat,  4  drachms  of  the  chlorate  may  be 
added  to  k  pint  of  water.     (See  No.  5637.) 

5609.  Bell's  Gargle   for   Syphilitic 
Sore  Throat.     Mix  together  2  grams  corro- 
sive sublimate;   1  ounce  rectified  spirits  of 
wine ;  3  ounces  tincture  of  Peruvian  bark,  and 
1  ounce  each  honey  of  roses  and  tincture  of 
myrrh. 

5610.  Atlee's    Cough   Mixture.      2 
grains  acetate  of  morphia;   1  drachm  each 
tincture  of  belladonna  and  tincture  of  nux- 
vornica ;  3  drachms  each  antimonial  wine  and 
syrup  of  ipecacuanha  root;  1  ounce  fluid  ex- 
tract of  wild  cherry  bark,  and  2  ounces  syrup 
of  balsam  of  tolu.    A  tea-spoonful  4  times  a 
day  relieves  chronic  or  hacking  cough. 

5611.  Hope's  Cough  Mixture.    2  oun- 
ces ammonia  mixture;    5    ounces   camphor 
mixture ;  1  drachin  tincture  of  digitalis  (fox- 
glove); ^  ounce  each  sweet  spirits  of  nitre 
and  syrup  of  poppies ;  2  drachms  solution  of 
sulphate  of   morphia.      A  table-spoonful   of 
this  mixture  is  to  be  taken  4  times  a  day. 

5612.  Treatment   of  Consumption. 
It  seems  at  first  sight  as  superfluous  to  state 
that  in  a  disease  of  debility  like  consumption, 
patients  should  breathe  pure  air,  as  that  they 
should  have  good  nourishing  food,  but  it  is 
not  so.    Theoretically,  the  value  of  pure  air 
is  accepted;  but  practically  it  is  universally 
neglected.     Healthful  respiration  has  yet  to 
be  applied  not  only  to  every-day  life,  but  in 
the  treatment  of  disease.    In  ill  health,  and 
particularly  diseases  of  the  respiratory  organs, 
the  dictates  of  science  and  common  sense  are 
grossly  outraged.    If  those  persons  who  have 
consumption,  or  who  have  an  inclination  to  it, 
would  spend  an  hour  every  day  in  breathing 
pure  air  to  the  fullest  extent  to  which  their 
lungs  are  capable  of  taking  it  in,  they  would 
do  more  to  prevent  and   cure  this  disease 
than  it  is  possible  to  do  by  medication. 

5613.  Inhalation  of  Tar  for  Consump- 
tion.    Mix  together  16  ounces  liquid  tar  and 
1  fluid  ounce  liquor  of  potassa ;  boil  them  for 
a  few  minutes  in  the  open  air;  then  let  it  sim- 
mer gently  in  an  iron  vessel  over  a  spirit  or 
other  lamp  in  the  chamber  of  the  patient. 


This  may,  at  first,  excite  a  disposition  to  cough, 
but  in  a  short  time  allays  it;  and  removes  any 
tendency  to  it. 

5614.  Syrup  of  Blood-root.     1  ounce 
blood-root,    J  ounce  aniseseed,  and   \  ounco 
liquorice  boiled  in  2  pints  water  down  to  a 
pint,  and  then  mixed  with  4  ounces  honey. 
This  is  highly  recommended  in  consumptive 
cases  attended  with  dyspeptic  symptoms. 

5615.  Blood-root  for  Consumption. 
25  to  40  drops   saturated  tincture  of  'blood- 
root,  taken  2  or  3  times  a  day,  afford  great 
relief. 

5616.  Cigars    for   Pulmonary    Con- 
sumption.    Dissolve  1  part  arseniate  of  soda 
in  30  parts  water.    Dip  white  unsized  paper 
into  the  solution  and  form  into  small  rolls,  3 
or  4  inches  long.     In  pulmonary  consump- 
tion inhale  4  or  5  whiffs  as  many  times  a  day. 

5617.  Goddard's  Cure  for  Loss   of 
Voice.     Wet  bibulous  paper  with  a  solution 
of  1  part  arseuite  of  potash  in  25  parts  water ; 
dry  and  roll  strips  of  3  inches  by  1  inch  into 
cigarettes.     The  smoke  to  be  inhaled,  8  or  10 
inspirations,  3  times  a  day.    In  connection 
with  this  use  -fa  grain  ammoniated  mercury 
mixed  with  10  drachms  powdered  sugar,  ap- 

Ely  a  little  to  the  throat  with  the  end  of  the 
nger.    This  is  an  excellent  remedy. 

5618.  To  Cure  Hoarseness.    Saturated 
solution  of  iodine,  20  drops;  alcohol,  1  ounce; 
5  drops  of  the  above  on  a  lump  of  loaf  sugar 
every  two  hours  will  be  found  invaluable. 

5619.  Cigars  for  Hoarseness,  Asthma, 
&c.     Soak  thick  unsized  paper  in  a  solution 
of  saltpetre,  and  dry.     Then  brush  over,  with 
tincture  of  cascarilla ;  and,  when  nearly  dry, 
with  compound  tincture  of  benzoin.    In  about 
half  an  hour,  cut  it  into  pieces  1£  by  4  inches, 
and  roll  into  cigarettes.     Excellent  for  hoarse- 
ness, loss  of  voice,  and  asthma. 

5620.  Remedy  for  a  Sudden  Hoarse- 
ness.    Mix  1  tea-spoonful  of  sweet  spirits  of 
nitre  in  a  wine-glassful  of  water.     This  may 
be  taken  2  or  3  times  a  day. 

5621.  To  Prevent  Hoarseness.      A 
celebrated  singer    state.}    that    the    greatest 
benefit  is  derivable  from  taking,  during  5  or  6 
days,  twice  a  day,  5  or  6  drops  of  nitric  acid 
in  a  glass  of  sugared  water.     If  from  use  the 
acid  loses  its  efficacy,  the  dose  may  be  in- 
creased to  10  or  12  drops. 

5622.  Snuffles.     A  troublesome   com- 
plaint,  to  infants   especially.      The  mucous 
membrane  of  the  nose,  through  the  taking  of 
cold,  being  much  swollen,  the  child  is  no 
longer  able  to  breathe  through  its  nose,  as  it 
was  accustomed  to  do,  but  is  compelled  to 
breathe   through  the  mouth.      The   difficult 
breathings  are  attended  by  a  peculiar  snuffling 
noise,  which,  in  sleep,  becomes  a  regular  loud 
snore.    It  often  interferes  with  its  sucking  at 
the  breast ;  as  soon  as  it  seizes  the  nipple  a 
threatening  suffocation  compels  it  to  desist. 
While  this  complaint  lasts  the  child  may  be 
partially  fed  with  the  spoon;  give  it  a  very  mild 
purgative ;  bathe  its  legs  frequently  in  warm 
water.    Eub  the  nose  with  tallow,  and  apply 
a  slippery  elm  poultice  mixed  with  cream. 

5623.  Influenza  Mixture.   Mix  i  ounce 
paregoric  elixir,  1  ounce  syrup  of  squills,  and 
2  drachms  antimonial  wine,  with  6  ounces 
water.    A  tea-spoonful  every  15  minutes  until 
relieved. 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


<189 


5624.  Treatment  of  Asthma.  Be- 
lief is  often  obtaiued  by  smoking  a  pipe  of 
tobacco.  To  a  person  unaccustomed  to  smok- 
ing, a  pipe  of  latakia,  or  other  mild  descrip- 
tion of  tobacco ;  this  soon  produces  exhaus- 
tion, while,  directly  the  feeling  of  nausea 
comes  on,  the  attack  ceases.  This  remedy  is 
often  very  useful  in  preventing  an  attack 
when  one  is  impending.  Stronger  tobacco 
should  be  used  by  inveterate  smokers.  The 
fumes  of  burning  filtering  or  blotting-paper, 
which  has  been  soaked  in  a  saturated  solution 
of  nitre,  and  dried,  afford  much  relief  in  some 
cases  (see  No.  5619);  and,  lastly,  there  are 
instances  where  palliation  is  soonest  obtained 
from  a  stimulant,  as  a  glass  of  whiskey  or 
brandy  toddy,  or  a  cup  of  very  strong  coffee. 
A  mustard  poultice  over  the  front  of  the 
chest  is  often  effective.  Sometimes  an  attack 
may  bo  arrested  by  taking  off  the  patient's 
coat  and  vest,  and  exposing  his  back  to  the 
heat  of  a  good  fire.  (See  No.  5764.) 

5625.  Croup.  This  is  a  dangerous 
disease.  It  is  common  to  infancy,  and  rarely 
occurs  to  adults.  It  is  an  inflammation  of 
the  larynx,  trachea,  and  contiguous  tissues. 
It  derives  its  name  from  the  peculiar  sound  of 
the  voice  and  breathing,  being  of  a  whistling 
or  crowing  character,  owing  to  a  contraction 
of  the  glottis.  It  generally  commences  with 
a  common  cold  and  catarrh,  hoarseness, 
cough,  and  increased  difficulty  of  breathing, 
and  the  crowing  already  spoken  of.  It  de- 
mands prompt  treatment. 

5626.  Treatment  of  Croup.   The  great 
object  is  to  diminish  the  inflammation  and 
irritation,  and  to  relax  the  spasmodic  state 
of  the  muscles  in  the  parts  diseased.     The 
vessels  in  those  parts  are  overcharged  with 
blood,  by  an  imperfect  action  of  the  exhalants. 
Place  the  feet  in  warm  water,  and  give  an 
emetic.     (See  No.  5169.)    After  bathing,  rub 
the  legs  and  feet  well  with  flannel.     Then 
give  a  vapor  bath,  if  the  patient  can  bear  it. 
Repeat  the  process,  if  needful.     The  perspira- 
tion will  be  greater  by  applying  to  the  feet 
and  each  side  hot  bricks,  and  wrapped  in 
flannel  saturated  with  vinegar  and  a  little 
water.     At  the  same  time  give  an  aperient, 
to  produce  a  free  action  on  the  bowels.     Ap- 
ply this  tincture   to   the  throat,  viz.:  -J-  tea- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  nearly  a  cupful 
of  vinegar;  simmer  10  minutes,  and   strain. 
This    tincture    may  be    diluted  with  warm 
water,  according  to  the  strength  of  the  pa- 
tient.    Rub  it  well  on  the  throat  for  5  or  10 
minutes  ;  and  next  saturate  a  flannel  with  it, 
and  apply  it  to  the  throat.     This  application 
tends    to    relieve    the    internally    congested 
blood-vessels.      Repeat    the    application    as 
necessary.     Mustard  plasters  may  be  applied 
to  the  feet,  the  upper  part  of  the  chest,  and 
between  the  shoulders  alternately.     Even  a 
large  sponge  dipped  in  as  hot  water  as  the 
hand  can  bear,   squeezed  half  dry,  and  re- 
newed before  it  is  cool,  is  of  great  advantage. 
It  has  been  recommended  to  steep  hops  in 
hot  vinegar,  and  the  patient  to  inhale  the 
vapor.     Keep  the  atmosphere  of  the  room 
at  a  regular  temperature.    Aid  the  perspi- 
ration by  warm  drinks,  as  balm  tea,  &c. 

5627.  Remedy  for  Croup.    Turpentine 
is  a  sovereign  remedy  for  croup.    Saturate 
a  piece  of  flannel  with  it,  and  place  the  flan- 


nel on  the  throat  and  chest,  and  in  very 
severe  cases  3  to  5  drops  on  a  lump  of  sugar 
may  be  taken  inwardly.  Every  family  should 
have  a  bottle  of  turpentine  on  hand. 

5628.  To  Prevent  a  Return  of  Croup. 
To  prevent  a  return  of  this  disorder,  keep  the 
child    warm,   avoid   wet    feet,    cold,    damp, 
easterly  winds,  &c.    Children  whose  constitu- 
tions dispose  them  to  croup    ought  to  have 
their  diet  properly  regulated,  and  be  kept 
from  all  crude,  raw,  and  trashy  fruits. 

5629.  Mumps.     This  is  a  specific  con- 
tagious inflammatory  affection  of  the  salivary 
glands,  especially  the  largest,  situated  below 
the  car.    It  begins  with  slight  feverish  symp- 
toms, with  pain  and  swelling,  extending  from 
beneath  the  ear  along  the  neck  to  the  chin. 
The  attack  generally  reaches  its  height  in  4 
days  and  then  declines.     The  treatment  is 
very  simple — a  mild  diet,  gentle  laxatives,  oc- 
casional hot   fomentations,   and    wearing    a 
piece  of  flannel  around  the  throat. 

5630.  Quinsy.      Inflammation   of  the 
tonsils,  or  common  inflammatory  sore  throat, 
commences  with  a  slight  feverish  attack,  with 
considerable  pain  and  swelling  of  the  tonsils, 
causing  some  difficulty  in  swallowing ;  as  the 
attack  advances  these  symptoms  become  more 
intense,-  there  is  headache,  thirst,  a  painful 
sense  of  tension,  and  acute  darting  pains  in 
the  ears.    The  attack  is  generally  brought  on 
by  exposure  to  cold,  and  lasts  from  5  to  7 
days,  when  it  subsides  naturally,  or  an  ab- 
scess may  form  in  the  tonsil  and  burst,  or  the 
tonsil  may  remain  enlarged,  the  inflammation 
subsiding. 

5631.  Treatment   of    Quinsy.      The 
patient  should  remain  in  a  warm  room,  the 
diet  chiefly  milk  and  good  broths,  some  cool- 
ing laxative  and  diaphoretic  medicine  may  be 
given ;  but  the  greatest  relief  will  be  found  in 
the  frequent  inhalation  of  the  steam  of  hot 
water  through  an  inhaler,  or  in  the  old-fash- 
ioned way,  through  the  spout  of  a  teapot. 
Relief  will  also  be  experienced  from  the  fol- 
lowing treatment :  Roast  3  or  4  large  onions. 
Peel  them  quickly,  and  beat  them  flat  with  a 
rolling-pin.      Immediately  place  them  in  a 
thin  muslin  bag  that  will  reach  from  ear  to 
ear,   and   about    3  inches    deep.      Apply  it 
speedily  as  warm  as  possible  to  the  throat. 
Keep  it  on  day  and  night,  changing  it  when 
the  strength  of  the  onion  appears  to  be  ex- 
hausted, and  substituting  fresh  ones.   Flannel 
must  be  worn  around  the  neck  after  the  poul- 
tice is  removed. 

5632.  Treatment  of  "Whooping- 
cough..  The  attack  generally  begins  as  a 
common  cold,  with  slight  feverish  symptoms. 
In  8  or  10  days  the  fever  partially  subsides,1 
and  the  child  gets  attacks  of  convulsive 
coughing,  accompanied  by  the  peculiar  whoop 
which  gives  the  disease  its  name.  The  num- 
ber of  attacks  varies  from  1  or  2  to  10,  or  even 
15  in  the  24  hours,  according  to  the  severity/ 
of  the  disease.  The  child  should  be  kept  in  a 
warm  room.  He  ought  to  be  clothed  in  flan- 
nel ;  his  diet  should  be  light  and  nourishing, 
such  as  fish,  milk,  light  puddings,  and  new-laid, 
eggs.  The  following  prescription  is  strongly 
recommended  by  Dr.  Yaleutine  Mott:  Hy- 
drocyanic acid,  6  drops;  extract  of  belladonna, 
2  grains;  paregoric  elixir,  3  drachms;  syrup 
of  balsam  of  tolu,  1  ounce;  and  water,  3  oun- 


-490 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


ces.  Mix.  1  tea-spoonful  3  or  4  times  daily. 
When  the  severity  of  the  disease  has  passed 
off,  change  of  air  will  be  found  most  useful; 
and  if  the  child  has  become  debilitated,  tonics, 
with  nutritious  diet,  should  be  given.  This 
disease  being  very  infectious,  great  care 
should  be  taken  to  prevent  communication  of 
any  kind  with  houses  where  there  are  children 
who  have  not  already  had  whooping-cough. 

5633.  Syrup    for  Whooping-Cough. 
Onions  and  garlics,  sliced,  of  each  1  gill;  stew 
them  in  1  gill  sweet  oil,  in  a  covered  dish,  to 
obtain  the  juices ;  then  strain  and  add  honey, 
1  gill;  paregoric  and  spirits  of  camphor,   of 
each  k  ounce;  bottle  and  cork  tight  for  use. 
Dose,  for  a  child  of  2  or  3  years,  1  tea-spoonful 
3  or  4  times  daily,  or  whenever  the  cough  is 
troublesome,  increasing  or  lessening,  accord- 
ing to  age. 

5634.  Atiee's   Cure   for  Whooping- 
Cough.      Take    1  drachm    each    powdered 
cochineal  and  strong  aqua-ammonia;  1  ounce 
rectified  spirits  of  wine.    Mix.     Dose  for  a 
child  one  year  old,   10  drops  in  sweetened 
water  3  times  a  day. 

5635.  Cure    for    Whooping    Cough. 
Pure  carbonate  of  potassa,  1  scruple ;  coch- 
ineal, 1  grain ;  dissolve  in  G  ounces  of  water 
sweetened  with  sugar.    Dose  for  a  child  four 
years  old,  1  tea-spoonful  3  times  a  day,  to  be 
taken  before  meals.     This    is    an    excellent 
remedy. 

5636.  Treatment  of  Diphtheria. 
Make  two  small  bags  to  reach  from  ear  to 
ear,  and  fill  them  with  wood-ashes  and  salt ; 
dip  them  in  hot  water,  and  wring  them  out 
so  that  they  will  not  drip,  and  apply  them  to 
the  throat ;  cover  up  the  whole  with  a  flannel 
cloth,  and  change  them  as  often  as  they  be- 
come cool,  until  the  throat  becomes  irritated, 
near  blistering.  For  children  it  is  necessary 
to  put  flannel  cloths  between  tho  ashes  and 
the  throat,  to  prevent  blistering.  When  the 
ashes  have  been  on  a  sufficient  time,  take  a 
wet  flannel  cloth  and  rub  it  With  castile  soap 
until  it  is  covered  with  a  thick  lather ;  dip  it 
in  hot  Avater,  and  apply  it  to  the  throat,  and 
change  as  they  cool ;  at  the  same  time  use  a 
gargle  made  of  1  tea-spoonful  each  of  cayenne 
pepper,  salt,  and  molasses,  in  a  tea-cupful  of 
hot  water,  and  when  cool,  add  J  as  much 
cider  vinegar,  and  gargle  every  15  minutes, 
until  the  patient  requires  sleep.  A  gargle 
made  of  castile  soap  is  good  to  bo  used  part 
of  the  time. 

5637.  Remedy  for  Diphtheria.     Per- 
manganate of  potassa  has  been  administered 
(with  great  success  in  cases  of  diphtheria. 
The  proportions  used  for  external  use  are  1 
drachm  of  tho  permanganate  to  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter ;  the  dose  for  internal  use,  1  tea-spoonful 
of  a  solution  of  1  drachm  in  1£  pints  water. 
(U.  S.  Dis.) 

5638.  Remedy   for   Diphtheria.      A 
gentleman  who  has  administered  the  follow- 
ing remedy  for  diphtheria,  says  that  it  has 
always  proved    effectual :    Take    a    tobacco 

Eipe,  place  a  live  coal  in  the  bowl,  drop  a 
ttle  tar  iipon  the  coal,  and  let  the  patient 
draw  smoke  into  the  mouth,  and  discharge  it 
through  the  nostrils.     The  remedy  is  safe  and 
simple. 

5639.  Roche's  Remedy  for  Diphthe- 
ria.    M.    Roche  recommends   the   following 


mode  of  treatment.  The  false  membranes 
are  first  freely  cauterized  with  lunar  caustic, 
and  injections  then  made  every  hour  against 
the  fauces  with  a  solution  of  common  salt, 
the  strength  of  the  solution  being  such  as  not 
to  create  nausea.  Chlorate  of  potassa  may  be 
also  given  internally ;  and  tincture  of  iodine 
as  a  local  application ;  but  M.  Roche  considers 
that  the  irrigations  with  the  solution  of  com- 
mon salt  are  the  chief  agents  in  the  case. 

5640.  Stiff  Neck.     Occasionally  an  at- 
tack is  severe,  and  confinement  to  the  house 
or  bed,  with  wrapping  up  of  the  neck  with 
cotton- wadding  or  flannel,  together  with  at- 
tention to  the  state  of  the  digestive  powers, 
is  necessary.     The  diet  in  these  cases  must  be 
regulated,  and  an  aperient,  such  as  the  leni- 
tive electuary  (see  No.  5154),  or  castor  oil, 
taken  if  required  by  the  state  of  the  bowels. 
If  the  stiffness  be  obstinate  in  its  duration,  it 
had  better  be  rubbed  with  camphorated  oil,  or 
some  other  appropriate  liniment. 

5641.  Anthelmintics.     Medicines  that 
destroy  worms.      Among  the  principal  au- 
thelmintics  are  santonin  (worm-seed),  calo- 
mel, tin  powder,  castor  oil,  oil  of  turpentine, 
cowhage,  pinkroot,  male-fern,  and  gamboge. 
A  good  plan  for  removing  worms  from  chil- 
dren, is  to  give  3  to  5  grains  of  calomel  in 
sugar,  over-night,  and  a  dose  of  castor  oil  the 
next  morning.     The  motions  should  be  ob- 
served,  and  if  worms  be    found,   the   same 
treatment  may  be  followed  once  a  week,  un- 
til they  are  wholly  removed. 

5642.  Worms.      The  worms  found  in 
the  human  body  are  mostly  the  ascaridfes,  the 
thread  worm,  infesting  the  lower  intestine, 
causing  much  itching  and  irritation  about  the 
anus.    The  teres,  or  long  round  worms,  are 
generally  seated  in  the  small  intestines,  and 
stomach.     The  symptoms  denoting  the  ex- 
istence of  worms  are  common  to  the  different 
species,    viz.:  indigestion,   with    a    variable 
appetite ;  foul  tongue ;  offensive  breath ;  hard, 
full,  and  tense  belly,  with  occasional  gripings 
and  pains  about  the  navel ;  heat  and  itching 
sensation  in  the  rectum  and  about  the  anus ; 
the  eyes  heavy  and  dull ;  itching  of  the  nose  ; 
short  dry  cough ;  grinding  of  the  teeth ;  and 
starting  during  sleep,  attended  often  with  a 
slow  fever. 

5643.  Dr.      Freeman's      Vermifuge 
Oil.     Oil  of  worm-seed,   J  ounce ;  oil  of  tur- 
pentine,  2  drachms;   castor  oil,  1£  ounces; 
pink  root,  i  ounce  ;  hydrastin,  10  grains ;  syrup 
of  peppermint,  \  ounce.     Dose,  for  a  child  10 
years  old,  a  tea-spoonful  3  times  a  day,  1 
hour  before  each  meal;  if  it  purges  too  freely, 
give  it  less  often.       This  is  an  excellent  ver- 
mifuge, and  never  fails  to  expel  worms  when 
administered  for  that   purpose.      "Where  no 
worms  are  present,  it  answers  the  purpose  of 
a  tonic,  correcting  the  condition  of  the  mucous 
membrane  of  the  stomach  and  bowels,  and 
operating  as  a  mild  cathartic. 

5644.  Spackman's    Worm     Syrup. 
Take  k  ounce  pink  root ;  2  drachms  rhubarb 
root;   1  drachm  worm-seed;     £  drachm    sa- 
vine  leaves ;    2  drachms  Colombo  root,  and 
1  drachm  cardamom   seeds.     Infuse  these  in- 
gredients in  i  pint  boiling  water  in  a  covered 
vessel ;  when  cool,   add  |  pint  molasses  and 
a  table-spoonful  brandy.     Dose  for  a  child  1 

!  year  old,  2  tea-spoonfuls  3  times  a  day. 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


4,91 


5645.  Remedy  for  Worms.     Take  6 
grains  santonin ;  2  grains  powdered  gamboge ; 
3  grains  calomel;  and  12  grains  powdered 
white  sugar.    Make  into  6  powders.     Give  1 
powder  3  times  a  day  for  a  child  one  year  old, 
and  a  dose  of  castor  oil  the  day  after  taking 
the  powders. 

5646.  Oil   of    Worm-seed    Mixture. 
Take  1A  fluid  drachms  oil  of  worm-seed,  3 
ounces  castor  oil,  and  10  drops  oil  of  anise ; 
mix  them  together,  and  add  1  fluid  ounce 
aromatic    syrup    of   rhubarb.       Shake    well 
before  using.     Dose  for  a  child  of  2  years, 
1  tea-spoonful  night  and  morning. 

564*7.  A  Simple  and  Safe  Vermifuge. 
Powdered  rust  of  iron  is  a  good  vermifuge. 
It  expels  the  worms  and  strengthens  the  con- 
stitution. To  a  child  6  years  old  from  10  to 
40  grains  may  be  given.  An  adult  may  take 
i  ounce  or  more.  It  may  be  given  in  mo- 
lasses or  in  beer.  Dr.  Rush  says  that  he 
knows  of  no  safer  and  more  certain  remedy 
than  this  simple  preparation  of  iron.  It 
should  always  be  followed  by  an  aperient. 

5648.  Worm  Pills.      Ethereal  extract 
of  male-fern,  30  drops ;  extract  of  dandelion, 
1  drachm ;  powdered  gum  enough  to  mako  30 
pills.  Dose,  from  6  to  20 ;  followed  half  an  hour 
later  by  a  strong  dose  of  castor  oil. 

5649.  Tape-Worm.      The    common 
male-fern    root  is  a  certain  remedy  for  the 
tape-worm.     2  or  3  drachma  of  the  powdered 
root  to  be  taken  in  the  morning,  no  supper 
having  been  taken  the  night  before.      It  gen- 
erally sickens  a  little.     A  brisk  purgative  is 
to  be  given  a  few  hours  after,  which  some- 
times brings  off  the  worm  entire ;  if  not,  the 
same  course  must  be  followed  at  due  inter- 
vals.     For  the  success  of  this  remedy,  the 
root  should  be  recently  gathered;   as,  after 
being  kept  long  in  the  stores,  its  activity  is 
diminished  or  destroyed. 

5650.  Bowler's  Treatment  of  Tape- 
Worm.     Dr.   Dowler  expelled  a  tape-worm 
135  feet  long  by  prescribing  the  continued 
use  of  eim-bark.     He  ordered  the  bark  to  be 
chewed    and  swallowed  in  moderate  quan- 
tities. 

5651.  Beach's   Treatment   of  Tape- 
Worm.       Dr.    Beach    effectually    cured    a 
patient  who  had  been  tormented  with  a  tape- 
worm for  25  years.     His  treatment  was  as 
follows :     Cowhage  stripped  from  the  pod,  a 
small  tea-spoonful  3  times  a  day ;  to  be  taken, 
fasting,  in  a  little  arrow-root  jelly ;  then  oc- 
casionally a  purgative  of  mandrake.     In  con- 
nection with  this,  eat  freely  of  garlic  and 
fine  common  salt.     This  treatment  is  to  be 
continued  until  the  tape-worm  is  killed  or  so 
sickened  that  it  will  lose  its  hold  on  the  bow- 
els, when  it  will  be  expelled  entire.       "When 
once  the  tape- worm  begins  to  pass  the  bow- 
els, care  must  be  taken  not  to  break  it  off, 
for  it  will  then  grow  again  ;   it  has  this  pe- 
culiar property. 

5652.  Diarrhea.     The  following  excel- 
lent remarks  on  this  disease  are  extracted 
from  Dr.  Hall's  Journal  of  Health :   Cholera 
is  nothing  more  than  exaggerated  diarrhea. 
It  may  be  well  for  travelers  to  know  that  the 
first,  the  most  important,  and  the  most  indis- 
pensable item  in  the  arrest  and  cure  of  loose- 
ness of  the  bowels,  is  absolute  quietude  on  a 
bed ;  nature  herself  always  prompts  this  by 


disinclining  us  to  locomotion.  The  next  thing 
is,  to  eat  nothing  but  common  rice,  parched 
like  coffee,  and  then  boiled,  and  taken  with  a 
little  salt  and  butter.  Drink  little  or  no  liquid 
of  any  kind.  Bits  of  ice  may  be  eaten  and 
swallowed  at  will.  Every  step  taken  in  diar- 
rhea, every  spoonful  of  liquid,  only  aggra- 
vates the  disease.  If  locomotion  is  compul- 
sory, the  misfortune  of  the  necessity  may  be 
lessened  by  having  a  stout  piece  of  woolen 
flannel  bound  tightly  round  the  abdomen,  so 
as  to  be  doubled  in  front,  and  kept  well  in  its 
place.  In  the  practice  of  many  years,  we 
have  never  failed  to  notice  a  gratifying  result 
to  follow  these  observances. 

5653.  Velpeau's   Remedy  for  Diar- 
rhea and  Cholera  Morbus.     Take  1  ounce 
each  tincture  of  opium,  paregoric  elixir,  and 
tincture  of  rhubarb ;   10  drachms  essence  of 
peppermint ;  and  6  drachms  tincture  of  cap- 
sicum.    This  is  the  original  receipt  for  this 
celebrated  remedy.    Dose  for  an  adult,  a  tea- 
spoonful  in  i    a  wine-glass  sweetened  wa- 
ter; and,  if  required,  half  a  dose  after  each 
loose  evacuation. 

5654.  Diarrhea  Tincture.    Compound 
tincture  of  myrrh,  (3  ounces ;  tincture  of  rhu- 
barb, and  spirits  of  lavender,  of  each  5  oun- 
ces; tincture  of  opium,  3  ounces;    oils  of 
anise  and  cinnamon,  with  gum  camphor  and 
tartaric  acid,  of  each  J-  ounce.    Mix.    Dose, 
1  tea-spoonful  in  a  little  warm  water  sweeten- 
ed with  loaf  sugar ;  repeat  after  each  passage. 
This  is  a  magic  remedy. 

5655.  Chlorodyne   Mixture.      Shake 
together  2£  fluid  drachms  each  chlorodyne  and 
rectified  spirit ;  add  1  fluid  ounce  syrup,  and 
shake  again  well ;  then  add  a  little  at  a  time, 
with  brisk  agitation,  4  fluid  ounces  distilled 
water  and  3  fluid  drachms  mucilage.    Dose, 
1  to  2  table-spoonfuls  in  diarrhea,  cholera,  &c. 
Shake  well  before  using. 

5656.  Goddard's  Diarrhea  Remedy. 
Dr.  Paul  Goddard  gives  the  following  remedy: 
Take  •}  ounce  tincture  of  catechu,   2  drachms 
each  tincture  of  opium  and  tincture  of  cam- 
phor, and  1  drachm  aromatic  spirits  of  ammo- 
nia.   40  drops  every  hour  will  afford  speedy 
relief. 

5657.  Remedy  for  Diarrhea.     Tinc- 
ture of  opium,  spirits  of  camphor,  essence  of 
peppermint,  ethereal  tincture  of  capiscum,  of 
each  h  ounce ;  syrup  of  kino,  1  ounce ;   neu- 
tralizing   cordial,  2  ounces  (see  JVb.  5GGG); 
brandy,    2  ounces.     Mix.     Dose,  one  table- 
spoonful,  may  be  given  every  twenty  minutes 
if  the  case  is  urgent.    In  dysentery  give  1 
table-spoonful  3  times  a  day.      This  is  an  ex- 
cellent remedy. 

5658.  Blackberry  Cordial.    To  1  quart 
blackberry  juice,  add  1  pound  white  sugar,  1 
table-spoonful  each  cloves,    allspice,    cinna- 
mon, and  nutmeg.    Boil  all  together  15  min- 
utes, add  a  wine-glass  of  whiskey,  brandy,  or 
rum.    Bottle  while  hot,  cork  tight  and  seal. 
This  is  almost  a  specific  in  diarrhea.    Dose  is 
1  wine-glassful  for  an  adult,  half  that  quanti- 
ty for  a  child ;  will  often  cure  diarrhea.    It 
can  be  taken  3  or  4  times  a  day  if  the  case  is 
severe. 

5659.  Remedy  for  Summer  Com- 
plaint. A  tea  made  of  the  seeds  of  the  sun- 
flower, roasted  like  coffee  berries,  is  an  ad- 
mirable remedy  for  all  species  of  summer 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


4:92 

complaint,  i  pint  of  the  seed  is  sufficient. 
It  should  be  remembered,  however,  that  se- 
rious results  often  follow  the  too  sudden  stop- 
page of  diarrhea  by  astringents,  and  with  this, 
as  all  remedies  of  a  similar  nature,  caution 
should  be  used. 

5660.  Remedy  for  Bilious  Diarrhea. 
Infuse  i  ounce  Angostura  bark  for  2  hours  in  1 
pint  boiling  water,  and  strain ;  is  a  remedy  for 
bilious  diarrhea,  especially  in  southern  lati- 
tudes. 

5661.  Treatment  of  Diarrhea  in  In- 
fants.    Dr.  Smith  recommends  the  following 
prescriptions,  if  the  bowels  are  rather  loose, 
with  dark,  slimy,  offensive  stools.    Tincture 
of  opium,  8  minims ;   castor  oil,  1  drachm ; 
syrup  of  ginger  and  mucilage  of  acacia,  each 
1  ounce.    A  tea-spoonful  3  times  daily.    In 
the  screaming  fits,  accompanied  by  constipa- 
tion, this  combination  of  castor-oil  with  laud- 
anum is  very  valuable.    (Med.  News. ) 

5662.  Treatment  of  Cholera.     The 
following  excellent  directions  are  given  for 
the  treatment  of  cholera  by  Dr.  Pratt :  For 
the  stage  of  diarrhea.     This  may  come  on 
insidiously,  painless,  and  hence  not  alarming, 
but  should  be  met  promptly.    The  remedy  is 
the  cholera  mixture,  so  called,  consisting-  of 
equal  parts  of  laudanum,  tincture  of  rhubarb, 
and  spirits  of  camphor.    Begin  with  30  drops, 
taken  clear  and  unmixed,  with  a  little  sugar 
placed  in  the  mouth  afterward.    Kepeat  the 
dose  after  every  evacuation,  increasing  it  if 
the  case  becomes  urgent  to  60  drops  (a  tea- 
spoonful),  or  90  drops  if  necessary.    If  the 
diarrhea  is  not  controlled  by  this  means,  an 
injection  of  from  30  to  90  drops  laudanum,  in 
a  table-spoonful  of  starch,  will  prove  a  valua- 
ble help.    This  may  be  often  repeated.    If 
the  diarrhea  ceases,  do  not  entirely  intermit 
the  medicine,  but  give  in  gradually  diminish- 
ed doses,  every  1  or  2  hours,  for  a  period  of 
12  or  even  24  hours. 

5663.  Treatment  for  the  Vomiting 
Stage.      Dr.   Pratt's  remedy  is    laudanum, 
tincture  of  capsicum,  tincture  of  ginger,  and 
tincture  of  cardamom  seeds,  equal  parts ;  to 
be  given  from  40  to  60  drops  undiluted,  and 
followed  by  sugar,  after  every  fit  of  vomiting; 
taking  care  to  give  it  as  soon  as  the  fit  ceases, 
when  it  will  be  more  likely  to  be  retained. 
An  excellent  assistant  to  this  is  a  large  mus- 
tard poultice  applied  to  the  abdomen. 

5664.  Treatment  for  the  Stage  of 
Malignancy.    According  to  Dr.  Pratt,  the 
only  remedy  is  stimulants,  especially  brandy, 
which  must  be  given  with  great  freedom, 
from  2  to  4  tea-spoonfuls  every  half  or  even 
quarter  hour,  till  heat  returns,  and  pulse  and 
sensibility  of  extremities  are  restored.     It  is 
always  to  be  given  undiluted.    Alcohol,  or 
other  spirits,    will    answer   the    purpose,  if 
brandy  is  not  to  be  had.    It  will  be  necessary 
to  combine  with  this,  artificial  heat,  bottles 
of  hot  water  to  the  body  and  extremities, 
friction  of  the  limbs  (which  no  one  need  fear 
to  apply),  and  mustard,  perhaps,  to  the  feet 
and  hands,  stomach  and  limbs.    Kerncmber 
that  boldness,  to  the  verge  of  rashness,  is  bet- 
ter than  excess  of  caution,  and  that  no  dan- 
ger is  to  be  apprehended  from  any  of  these 
remedies  so  long  as  the  symptoms  for  which 
they  are  given  are  uncontrolled.      The  use  of 
cold  water  must  be  strictly  forbidden,  except 


merely  to  gargle  the  throat;  a  very  small 
quantity,  swallowed,  will  bring  on  the  diar- 
rhea after  it  has  been  stopped  for  hours.  A 
little  water  of  gum-arabic  may  be  allowed,  a 
tea-spoonful  at  a  time ;  or,  perhaps,  lumps  of 
ice  might  be  taken  with  safety.  For  the 
typhoid  fever,  which  often  follows  an  attack, 
chamomile  or  sage  tea,  and  diaphoretic  (see 
No.  5134)  treatment,  will  be  all  that  is  need- 
ed, beside  a  moderate  use  of  stimulants,  for 
convalescence. 

5665.  Cholera  Preventive.     A  Bur- 
gundy-pitch plaster  worn  over  the  region  of 
the   stomach  during  the  prevalence  of  the 
disease.     It  should  be  warmed  a  little  before 
it  is  put  on,  the  person  standing  erect  when 
it  is  applied,  so  that  the  plaster  shall  not  in- 
terfere with  the  motions  of  the  body.      It  is 
asserted    that  a  British    regiment  supplied 
with  such  plasters  lost  only  five  men  dur- 
ing a  severe  visitation  of  cholera,  and  these  had 
refused  to  wear  then.     The  efficacy  of  this 
preventive  is  also  corroborated  by  other  well- 
authenticated  evidence. 

5666.  Neutralizing  Mixture.      Pow- 
dered   rhubarb,     3    scruples;    saleratus,    or 
crude  bicarbonate  of  potash,  3  scruples  ;  pow- 
dered peppermint  plant,  3  scruples ;  boiling 
water,  i  pint;  decoction  of  aniseed,  |  pint. 
Mix.     Strain,  sweeten  with  sugar,  and  add 
3  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy.     Take,  1   or  2 
table-spoonfuls  as  often  as  the  symptoms  re- 
quire   it.    For  children,   a  less  dose.    Very 
valuable  in  cholera,  bowel  complaints  of  chil- 
dren, laxity  of  the  bowels,  flux,  &c. 

5667.  Spackman's  Cholera  Mixture. 
Take  1  ounce  gum  camphor ;  2  ounces  gum 
kino ;    £    ounce     gum     catechu ;  2    ounces 
ground  cinnamon ;   1  ounce  ground  cloves ; 
2  drachms  African  capsicums.    Moisten  these 
with  brandy  and  digest  for  48  hours.     Dis- 
place (see  No.  41)  18  ounces ;  then  add  20 
drachms    tincture    of  opium    and    1  ounce 
chloroform.    Dose  for  an  adult,  60  drops  after 
every  passage. 

5668.  Brown's    Cholera    Mixture. 
Mix  together  1  ounce  essence  of  Jamaica  gin- 
ger; 2  ounces  each  camphorated  tincture  of 
opium  and  aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia ;  and 
1  ounce    spirits  of  camphor.    Dose,  a    tea- 
spooonful  every  hour. 

5669.  Troth's  Cholera  Mixture.     Di- 
gest for  10  days  1  ounce  each  opium,  cam- 
phor, oil  of  cloves,  and  African  capsicums, 
in  1  pint  Hoffman's  anodyne  (see  No.  4749) ; 
administer  20  to  40  drops  every  2  hours. 

5670.  Austrian  Cholera  Specific. 
Take  20  grains  sulphuric  acid  specific  gravity 
1.500;  15  grains  each  sugar  and  gum;  dis- 
tilled water  sufficient  to  make  the  whole 
weigh  exactly  1  ounce,  1  table-spoonful  of 
the  above  mixture  is  to  be  taken  in  water  on 
the  first  appearance  of  premonitory  symptoms, 
followed  by  the  free  use  of  ice-cold  water.  A 
second  dose  k  an  hour  after  is  generally  suffi- 
cient to  arrest  the  disease,  but  occasionally  4 
or  5  doses  are  required.  A  table-spoonful  in 
a  pint  of  cold  water  may  afterwards  be  drunk 
as  often  as  desired.  W"hen  collapse  sets  in, 
double  doses  are  to  be  given,  and  repeated 
after  every  attack  of  vomiting,  until  the  sick- 
ness and  cramp  abate.  After  which,  the  doses 
are  to  be  repeated  until  5  or  6  doses  are  re- 
tained by  the  stomach.  Quiet  sleep  or  drow- 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


4,93 


siness  should  not  be  interfered  with.  The 
free  use  of  cold  water  or  acidulated  water  is 
to  be  allowed  until  perspiration  sets  in  Und 
the  warmth  of  the  body  returns.  The  use  of 
warm  drinks,  wine,  spirits,  <fcc.,  are  to  be 
carefully  avoided  as  so  much  poison.  The 
above  was  adopted  by  the  Austrian  Govern- 
ment in  1849,  after  18  years'  successful  trial. 

5671.  Homoeopathic  Cholera  Pre- 
ventive. Dissolve  1  drachm  camphor  in  6 
drachms  rectified  spirit,  and  preserve  it  in  a 
well-corked  bottle.  Dose,  2  drops  on  a  lump 
of  sugar  2  or  3  times  a  day. 

5672.  Homoeopathic  Cholera  Remedy. 
Repeat  the  dose  of  the  mixture  in  foregoing 
receipt  every  10  or  15  minutes,  followed  by 
draughts  of  ice-cold  water  until  the  symp- 
toms abate. 

5673.  Use    of   Calomel   in    Cholera. 
"When  cholera  is  prevailing,  a  single  large, 
thin,  painless,  weakening  action  of  the  bowels 
may  be  cholera  beguu,  and  the  business  man 
should  start  for  home  in.  a  vehicle  instantly, 
calling  on  his  physician  on  his  way,  and  take 
him  home  with  him ;  or,  if  he  cannot  be  found 
immediately,  get  into  bed  as  soon  as  possible, 
dress  up  warm,  eat  ice  if  thirsty,  bind  a  thick 
warm  flannel  tightly  around  the  abdomen, 
and  wait  for  his  doctor's  arrival.    A  physician 
should  be  called  always  on  the  instant  of  an 
attack,  hut  when  it  is  impossible  to  procure 
his  services  within  an  hour,  10  or  20  grains  of 
calomel  should  bo  taken  in  pill  or  powder,  as 
a  means  of  stopping  the  discharges,  and  of 
thus  arresting  the  disease,  until  the  physician 
arrives.    Calomel  is  generally  easy  to  be  pro- 
cured, will  remain  on  the  stomach,  from  its 
heaviness,  when  even  cold  water  is  ejected  as 
soon  as  swallowed,  and  is  the  most  certain  of 
all  medicines  known  to  stimulate  the  liver  to 
action,  this  want  of  action  being  the  funda- 
mental cause  of  the  disease.     (Hall.) 

5674.  Cholera  Tincture.     Tinctures  of 
rhubarb,  cayenne,  opium,  and  spirits  of  cam- 
phor, with  essence  of  peppermint,  equal  parts 
of  each,  and  each  as  strong  as  can  be  made. 
Dose,  from  5  to  30  drops,  or  even  to  60,  and 
repeat  until  relief  is  obtained,  every  5  to  30 
minutes.    Many  lives  have  been  saved  by  the 
timely  use  of  this  valuable  medicine. 

5675.  Treatment  of  Dysentery.    A 
slight  attack  will  often  yield  to  the  employ- 
ment of  a  dose  of  castor  oil ;  warm  fomenta- 
tions or  mustard  poultices  being  applied  over 
the  belly ;  the  patient  being  confined  to  bed, 
and  only  allowed  to  partake  of  food  the  most 
simple  in  its  nature,  that  is,  farinaceous  food, 
cream,  or  milk  (with  one-third  of  lime-water, 
if  requisite),  thin  broths,  <fec.     Perfect  rest  in 
the  horizontal  posture  is    almost    essential. 
A  warm  bath  for  20  minutes,  or  a  shorter 
time  if  the  patient  feels  faint,  will  often  give 
great  relief.     Stimulants  should  be  forbidden 
in  mild  cases;  but  where  the  patient  is  be- 
coming weakened  by  the  disease,  port  wine, 
as  the  best  stimulant  in  these  cases,  may  be 
given  in  beef-tea,  or  alone.    And  the  rule  of 
uttle  and  often    may  be  strictly  observed. 
Early  treatment  is  most  important  in  dysen- 
tery, and  therefore  the  medical  man  should  be 
sent  for  without  loss   of  time,   in   case  the 
simple  means  recommended  are  ineffectual. 

5676.  Indian   Cure  for   Dysentery. 
In  diseases  of  this  kind,  the  Indians  use  the 


root  and  leaves  of  the  blackberry  bush,  a  de- 
coction of  which  in  hot  water,  well  boiled 
down,  is  taken  in  doses  of  a  gill  before  each 
meal,  and  before  retiring  to  bed.  It  is  an  al- 
most infallible  cure. 

5677.  Simple  Remedy  for  Dysentery. 
The  following  simple  remedy  has  been  known 
to  cure  the  most  obstinate   and  malignant 
forms  of  dysentery  when  all   the   ordinary 
methods  were  ineffectual :  Take  hot  water,  1 
gill;  vinegar,  k  pint;  mix;  then  continue  to 
add  common  salt  as  long  as  it  will  be  dissolved, 
stirring  and  irritating  it  freely  and  frequently. 
Give  for  an  adult  1  table-spoonful  every  hour 
until  the  bloody  discharges  cease,  or  until  it 
operates  freely  on  the  bowels.    The  patient 
must  remain  in  bed. 

5678.  Antacids.     Medicines  that  neu- 
tralize the  acid  of  the  stomach,  and  thus  tend 
to  remove  heartburn,  dyspepsia,  and  diarrhea. 
The  principal  antacids  are  the  carbonates  of 
potassa,  soda,  ammonia,  lime,  and  magnesia. 
Ammonia  is  the  most  powerful,  and  when 
the  acidity  is  conjoined  with  nausea  and  faint- 
ness,  is  the  best;  when  great  irritability  of 
the  coats  of  the  stomach  exist,  potash  is  pre- 
ferable;   when  accompanied  with    diarrhea, 
carbonate    of  lime    (prepared    chalk);    and 
when  with  costiveness,  magnesia.     The  dose 
of  the  carbonates  of  potassa  and  soda  in  pow- 
der is  half  a  tea-spoonful;   of  chalk,  a  tea- 
spoonful;  of  magnesia,  a  dessert-spoonful;  and 
of  carbonate  of  ammonia,  10  grains,  or  <i  tea- 
spoonful  of  the  solution.    All  these  are  taken 
in  water. 

5679.  Dyspepsia.     If  a  man  wishes  to 
get  rid  of  dyspepsia,  he  must  give  his  stomach 
and  brain  less  to  do.     It  will  be  of  no  service 
to  follow  any  particular  regimen — to  live  on 
chaff  bread  or  any  such  stuff— to  weigh  his 
food,  etc.,  so  long  as  the  brain  is  in  a  constant 
state  of  excitement.     Let  that  have  proper 
rest,  and  the  stomach  will  perform  its  func- 
tions.    But  if  he  pass  10  or  12  hours  a  day  in 
his  office  or  counting-room,  and  take  no  ex- 
ercise, his  stomach  will  inevitably  become 
paralyzed ;  and  if  he  puts  nothing  into  it  but 
a  cracker  a  day,  it  will  not  digest  it.    In 
many  cases  it  is  the  brain  that  is  the  primary 
cause.     Give  that  delicate  organ  some  rest. 
Leave  your  business  behind  you  when  you  go 
to  your  home.    Do  not  sit  down  to  your  din- 
ner with  your  brows  knit,  and  your  mind 
absorbed    in  casting   up    interest    accounts. 
Never  abridge  the  usual  hours  of  sleep.     Take 
more  or  less  of  exercise  in  the  open  air  every 
day.    Allow  yourself  some  innocent  recrea- 
tion.    Eat  moderately,   slowly,   and  of  just 
what  you  please.     If  any  particular  dish  dis- 
agrees with  you,  however,  never  touch  it  or 
look  at  it.     Do  not  imagine  that  you  must 
live  on  rye  bread  or  oat  meal  porridge;   a 
reasonable  quantity  of  nutritious  food  is  es- 
sential to  the  mind  as  well  as  the    body. 
Above  all,  banish  all  thoughts  of  the  subject. 
If  you   have    any    treatises    on    dyspepsia, 
domestic  medicines,  etc.,  put  them  directly 
out  of  your  reach.    If  you  are  constantly 
talking  and  thinking  about  dyspepsia,  you 
will  surely  have  it.     Endeavor  to  forget  that 
you  have  a  stomach.   Keep  a  clear  conscience; 
live  temperately,  regularly,  cleanly ;  be  indus- 
trious, too,  but  avoid  excess  in  that,  as  in  all 

1  other  things. 


494. 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


5680.  Artificial  Digestion.     A  London 
physician,  Dr.  Marcet,  has  announced  a  pro- 
cess by  -which  natural  digestion  is  imitated  by 
artificial  means,  and  solid  food  may  thereby 
be  prepared  for  invalids.    Dr.  Marcet  takes  58 
grains  muriatic  acid  having  a  specific  gravity 
of  1.1496;   15  grains  of  pepsin — the  organic 
principle  procured  from  the  stomach  of  a  pig 
or  other  animal.    Diluted  in  a  pint  of  water 
and  added  to  a  nouiid  of  raw  meat,  the  -whole 
is  allowed  to  simmer  over  a  -water-bath  at 
about  the  temperature  of  the  body,  98°  Fahr. 
When  the  meat  is  by  this  means  sufficiently 
broken  up,  it  is  strained,  and  tSe  acid  neutral- 
ized by  81  grains  of  bicarbonate  of  soda.    The 
product  is  of  a  most    agreeable   character, 
easily  digested   and  vastly  more   nutritious 
than  beef  tea.     "Where  pepsin  cannot  be  ob- 
tained, the  doctor  has  found  strips  of  calves' 
stomach  answer  very  well. 

5681.  Dick's    Cure  for    Dyspepsia. 
Mix  together  i  ounce  bicarbonate  of  soda;  2 
drachms    aromatic    spirits    of  ammonia;    6 
drachms   compound  tincture  of  gentian;    6 
drachms  tincture  of  henbane;  2  drachms  tinc- 
ture of  ginger;   3  drops  creosote;    £  ounce 
ginger  syrup,  and  3  ounces  water.     A  table- 
spoonful  taken  after  each  meal  will  cause  a 
speedy  cure. 

5682.  Dick's  Dyspepsia  Pills.     Make 
the  following  ingredients  into   40    pills :     2 
scruples  each  compound  extract  of  colocynth, 
and  compound  rhubarb  pill  (see  No.  4923) ;  1 
scruple  blue  mass  (sec  No.  4919) ;  55  grains 
soap  ;  1  drachm  extract  henbane ;  3  drops  oil 
of  cloves.     Take  2  pills  at  bed-time. 

5683.  Spackman's  Anti-Dyspeptic 
Pills.  Make  into  a  mass,  6  drachms  24  grains 
powdered  aloes;  3  drachms  20  grains  each 
gamboge,  scammony,  and  compound  extract  of 
colocynth ;  96  grains  soap ;  15  drops  each  oil 
of  caraway  and.  oil  of  anise;  with  1  drachm 
water.  Divide  the  mass  into  16  parts,  and 
make  each  part  into  24  pills ;  384  pills  alto- 
gether. A  dose  consists  of  3  pills. 

5684.  Absorbents  are  medicines  admin- 
istered to  counteract  acidity  in  the  stomach  or 
intestinal  canal.  In  most  cases,  emetics  and 
aperients  are  given  previous  to  their  being 
taken;  they  are  carbonate  of  ammonia,  in 
doses  of  from  5  grains  to  1  scruple ;  liquor  of 
ammonia,  10  to  20  drops;  aromatic  spirit  of 
ammonia,  20  to  30  drops  ;  lime  water,  2  oun- 
ces to  h  pint;  magnesia,  calcined,  20  to  40 
grains ;  carbonate  of  magnesia,  %  to  2  drachms ; 
carbonate  of  potassa,  10  grains  to  i  drachm  ; 
carbonate  of  soda,  10  grains  to  -J-  drachm; 
soda  water,  \  pint.  (See  No.  5678.) 

5685.  To  Correct  Acidity  of  the 
Stomach.  The  neutralizing  mixture  (see  No. 
5666)  is  very  effectual  in  curing  this  disorder. 
Or,  10  grains  of  calumba,  powdered,  and  10 
grams  of  magnesia,  well  mixed.  Magnesia 
and  a  little  finely  powdered  chalk  will  be  of 
great  service. 

5686.  Remedy  for  Acidity  of  Stom- 
ach. This  is  a  common  symptom  of  weak  or 
disordered  digestion,  and  should  bo  treated 
with  small  doses  3  or  4  times  daily  of  the  car- 
bonate or  bicarbonate  of  potassa,  soda,  or 
ammonia ;  or  of  sal- volatile  or  ammonia  wa- 
ter, to  which  some  tonic  bitter  may  be  added. 
Diet  should  be  light  and  nutritious,  with  as 
much  out-door  exercise  as  possible.  The 


bowels  should  be  kept  regular  by  the  occa- 
sional use  of  some  mild  aperient. 

5687.  Carminatives.     Medicines  that 
allay  flatulency  and  spasmodic  pains.    Among 
the  principal  carminatives  are  aniseed,  cara- 
way-seed, cardamoms,  cassia,  cinnamon,  gin- 
ger, peppermint  and  the  peppers;  including 
ardent  spirits  and  most  aromatic  essences  and 
tinctures. 

5688.  Flatulency   in   Children.      It 
often  arises  from  a  mother's  impure  milk; 
when  it  is  so  she  must  take  the  neutralizing 
mixture  (see  No.  5666) ;  and  if  not  effectual, 
administer  it  to  the  infant.     Also  foment  the 
stomach  with  warm  brandy  and  water,  to 
which  add  a  little  salt.     Give  also  the  carmin- 
ative drops.     (See  No.  5689.) 

5689.  Carminative  Drops,  for  expelling 
wind.     Angelica,  2  ounces;  lady's  slipper,  1 
ounce ;  sweet  flag,  J  ounce ;  anise,  1  ounce); 
fennel  seed,  i  ounce;  catnip  flowers,  1  ounce; 
mother- wort,  1  ounce;  pleurisy  root,  2  oun- 
ces.    Infuse  in  a  pint  of  spirits  of  wine  for  3 
or  4  days,  often  shaking,  keeping  it  in  a  warm 
place ;  then  add  a  pint  of  water  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  tincture  of  cayenne.     Excellent 
in  flatulency,  colic,  nervous  affections,  pro- 
moting perspiration  and  refreshing  sleep. 

5690.  Heartburn.     Anxiety    and    pain 
about  the  region  of  the   stomach,  generally 
attended  by  a  sense  of  gnawing  and  heat; 
hence  called  heartburn.     Faintness,   nausea, 
and  eructation  of  a  thin,   acidulous,  watery 
liquid,  especially  iu  the  morning,  are  common 
symptoms    of    this    complaint.      The    usual 
causes  of  heartburn  are  excess  in  eating  or 
drinking,  the  use  of  improper  food,  and  seden- 
tary habits.     A  good  remedy  is  a  tea-spoonful 
of  carbonate  of  magnesia,   or  carbonate,  of 
soda,  in  a  glass  of  peppermint  or  cinnamon 
water,  to  which  a  little  powdered  ginger  may 
be  added  with  advantage.     This  dose  may  be 
taken  2  or  3  times  daily  nntil  the  disease  is 
removed.     Articles  of  food  that  easily  under- 
go fermentation  should  at  the  same  time  be 
avoided,  and  a  dry  diet  had  recourse  to  as 
much  as  possible.     Soda-water,  toast  and  wa- 
ter, and  weak  spirits  and  water,  are  the  most 
suitable  beverages  in  this  complaint. 

5691.  To  Cure  Water-Brash.     When 
there  is  a  tendency  to  confined  bowels,  some 
aperient  must  bo  administered  occasionally  un- 
til proper  dieting,  <fec.,  renders  it  unnecessary. 
Fluid  magnesia,  or  the  lenitive  electuary  (see 
No.  5154),  will  probably  be  all  that  is  neces- 
sary.   The  diet  must  bo  carefully  attended  to 
in  all  cases ;  and  as  the  disorder  often  arises 
from  the  use  of  innutritious  or  unwholesome 
food,  the  adoption  of  a  more  varied  and  gener- 
ous diet,  including  a  sufficient  proportion  of 
meat,  is  essential  to  the  permanent  success  of 
any  remedy. 

5692.  'Treatment  of  Colic.     Let  it  be 
remembered  that  colic  may  occur  as  the  pre- 
lude to  an  inflammatory  attack ;  and  that  if 
neglected  or  unskillfully  treated,  such  ten- 
dency is  very  considerably  increased.     In  the 
treatment  of  colic,  very  great  advantage  re- 
sults from  the  external  application  of  warmth; 
hot  fomentations,  bags  of  hot  salt  or  bran,  or 
flannel  wrung  out  of  turpentine,  or  mustard 
poultices,    should    be    diligently    employed. 
While  these  means  arc  being  used,  a  dose  of 
laxative  medicine   should   be    administered; 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


495 


for,  as  fa  tlie  great  majority  of  cases  of  colic 
the  pain  depends  on  some  obstruction  in  the 
bowels — very  likely  on  the  presence  in  them 
of  some  deleterious  and  indigestible  food,  &c. 
— it  is  of  essential  importance  that  free  pas- 
sage should  be  obtained  as  speedily  as  possible. 
A  full  dose  (li  ounces)  castor  oil,  is  a  safe  and 
good  medicine  for  the  purpose ;  to  be  repeated 
in  2  or  3  hours  if  there  has  been  no  action  of 
the  bowels.  If  the  medical  man  has  arrived 
meanwhile,  he  will  very  likely  order  some 
stronger  medicine,  as,  if  the  oil  has  not  acted, 
steps  must  be  taken  to  clear  the  bowels  as 
soon  as  possible.  If  the  pain  is  very  severe, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  ginger,  or  a  little 
cayenne  pepper  may  bo  added  to  the  oil  or 
taken  after  it.  "When  free  action  of  the  bow- 
els is  obtained,  the  pain  soon  ceases.  After 
such  attacks  great  caution  is  requisite  in  the 
matter  of  diet  for  some  time ;  only  the  plain- 
est and  most  digestible  food  being  taken. 

5693.  Treatment  of  Lead  or  Painters' 
Colic.     In  caees  of  colic  arising  from  poison- 
ing by  lead,  called  lead  colic,  so  often  expe- 
rienced by  plumbers,  painters,  "workers  in  shot 
towers,  &c.,  the  great  object  is  to  obtain  free 
action  of  the  bowels,  as  in  common  colic ; 
and  medical  assistance  should  be  obtained  at 
once.     Of  course  every  care  should  be  taken 
to  prevent  any  further  entrance  of  lead  into 
the  system.      In  order  to  obviate  the  occur- 
rence of  lead-poisoning  in  those  who  are  of 
necessity  exposed  in  a  greater  or  less  degree 
to    its  influence,   frequent  ablutions  of  the 
hands  and    surface  of  the  body  should  be 
practiced;    "while    sulphuric    acid    lemonade 
should  be  used  as  a  beverage. 

5694.  Fainting  Fits.    If  a  person  faints, 
let  him  be  placed  on  his  back  until  he  comes 
to.     Do  nothing  else.     Ho  has  fainted   be- 
cause the  heart  has  stopped  beating.     It  will 
come  to  of  itself  as  soon  as  nature  desires  it, 
and  it  will  be  easier  to  propel  the  blood  in  a 
horizontal  direction,  when  lying  down,  than 
perpendicularly  to  the  head,  chest,  and  arms, 
when   sitting  up.      And   yet  the  very  first 
effort  of  bystanders  when  a  person  is  observ- 
ed to  have  fainted,  is  to  place  him  on  a  chair, 
or  lift  up  his  head.     (Hall).      If  the  patient 
be  a  female,  place  her  on  her  back,  with  the 

'  head  low,  loosen  all  clothes  about  the  neck 
and  chest,  sprinkle  cold  water  on  the  face, 
and  apply  smelling  salts  to  the  nostrils. 
~When  the  patient  can  swallow,  give  some 
cold  water,  with  20  or  30  drops  of  sal- volatile, 
or  a  little  brandy. 

5695.  Fits.     If  a  person  falls  in  a  fit,  let 
him  remain  on  the  ground,  provided  his  face 
be  pale ;  for  should  it  be  fainting  or  tempo- 
rary  suspension  of  the  heart's   action,   you 
may  cause  death  by  raising  him  upright,  or 
by  bleeding ;  but  if  the  face  "be  red  or  dark 
colored,  raise  him  on  his  seat,  throw  cold  wa- 
ter on  his  head  immediately,  and  send  for  a 
surgeon,  and  get  a  vein  opened,  or  fatal  pres- 
sure on  the  brain  may  ensue. 

5696.  Cure     for     Cramps.      Mix     2 
drachms  chloroform,   1   drachm  oil   of  cam- 
phor, 6  drachms  mucilage  of  gum-arabic,  and 
I  i  grains  acetate  of  morphia.     Dose,  40  drops 
every  2  hours. 

5697.  Remedy  for  Dropsy  and  Liver 
Affections.     Mix  8  ounces  infusion  of  dan- 
delion (taraxacum) ;  i  ounce  extract  of  dan- 


delion; 2  drachms  carbonate  of  soda;  6 
drachms  tartrate  of  potassa ;  8  drachms  tinc- 
ture of  rhubarb;  li  ounces  tincture  of  henbane. 
Dose,  a  table-spoonful  every  2  hours. 

5698.  Cure   for    Liver    Complaint. 
Take    £    ounce  each  extract  of  taraxacum 
(dandelion)  and  tartrato  of  potassa ;  45  grains 
carbonate  of  soda ;  i  ounce  sweet  tincture  of 
rhubarb,  and  6  ounces  spring  water.      Dose, 
a  tea-spoonful  3  times  a  day. 

5699.  Remedy  for  Liver  Complaint. 
Mix   k  ounce  each  fluid  extract  of  rhubarb 
and  of  senna  with  4  ounces  water.      Then 
add  k  ounce  extract  of  taraxacum ;  3  drachms 
acetate  of  potassa ;  h  ounce  compound  tinc- 
ture of  gentian ;  and  1  drachm  muriatic  ether. 
Dose,  a  table-spoonful  3  times  a  day. 

5700.  Dandelion  Pills.     Take  30  grains 
extract  of  dandelion,  and  6  grains  calomel; 
make  into  10  pills.     2  taken  3  times  a  day  are 
a  useful  remedy  for  dropsy  in  the  belly  aris- 
ing from    disorder  of  the    liver.     (See  No. 
5697.) 

5701.  Infusion  of  Dandelion.     Steep 
2  ounces  bruised  dandelion  root  in  1  pint  boil- 
ing water.     After  24  hours  strain.    2  table- 
spoonfuls  4  times  a  day  is  a  remedy  for  dropsy. 
(See  No.  5697.) 

5702.  Sick  Headache.     This  usually 
proceeds  from  acidity  and  overloading  the 
stomach.    "WTien  it  is  not  from  improper  eat- 
ing, all  that  is  necessary  is  to  soak  the  feet  in 
hot  water  for  15  minutes,  drink  some  warm 
herb  tea,  retire  to  bed,  and  take  a  good  sweat 
for  about  an  hour.    This  will  give  relief.    If 
the  trouble  arises  from  over-eating,  relief  may 
bo  obtained  by  taking  an  emetic.     (See  No. 
5169.) 

5703.  Periodical  Sick  Headache. 
Those  who  are  afflicted  periodically  with 
sick  headache,  accompanied  with  nausea  and 
sometimes  with  vomiting,  may  obtain  relief 
by  soaking  the  feet  in  hot  water,  and  using 
the  emetic  directed  in  No.  5169.  This  treat- 
ment should  be  followed  by  taking  the  lenitive 
electuary.  (See  No.  5154.) 

5704.  Wervous  Headache  may  bo  re- 
lieved by  using  one  of  the  evaporating  lotions. 
(See  No.  4843.)    An  application  of  the  "  Good 
Samaritan  "  is  also  very  effectual.     (See  No. 
4858.)    Any  of  the  remedies  under  tho  head 
of  neuralgia  are  also  recommended  for  severe 
attacks.     (Sec  Nos.  5544,  <f-c.) 

5705.  To  Relieve  Nervous  Headache. 
From  10  to  20  drops  sal-volatile  (aqua  ammo- 
nia) in  i  wine-glass  of  water  will  frequently 
give  relief;  a  dose  of  10  drops,  and  repeated 
at  intervals  of  10  minutes,  seldom  fails. 

5706.  Remedy  for  Sick  Headache. 
It  is  stated  that  2  tea-spoonfuls  of  finely  pow- 
dered charcoal,  drank  in  half  a   tumbler  of 
water,  will  give  immediate  relief  to  tho  sick 
headache,  when  caused,  as  in  most  cases  it  is, 
by  too  much  acid  on  the  stomach.     This  rem- 
edy has  been  highly  recommended.     (Sec  also 
Antacids,  No.  5678.) 

5707.  Bisulphide  of  Carbon  a  Reme- 
dy for  Headache.     Dr.  Keunion  thus  de- 
scribes the  mode  of  application  of  this  rem- 
edy :  A  small  quantity  of  the  solution  (about 
2  drachms)  is  poured  upon  cotton-wool,  with 
which  a  small  wide-mouthed  glass-stoppered 
bottle  is  half  filled.     This,  of  course,  absorbs 
the  fluid ;  and,  when  the  remedy  has  to  be 


496 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


used,  the  mouth  of  the  bottle  is  to  be  applied 
closely  (so  that  none  of  the  volatile  vapor  may 
escape)  to  the  temple,  or  behind  the  ear,  or  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  seat  of  pain,  and  so 
held  for  from  3  to  5  minutes.  After  it  has 
been  applied  for  a  minute  or  two,  a  sensation 
is  felt  as  if  several  leeches  were  biting  the 
part;  and,  after  a  lapse  of  a  few  minutes 
more,  the  smarting  and  pain  become  rather 
severe,  but  subside  almost  immediately  after 
the  removal  of  the  bottle.  The  effect  of  this 
application  is  generally  immediate.  (British 
Med.  Journ.) 

5708.  Simple  Remedy  for  Piles. 
Take  fresh  white  pine  pitch  in  pills,  from 
12  to  20  a  day,  and  sit  in  a  tub  of  cold  water 
4  or  5  times  a  day,  30  minutes  each  time,  for 
a  month.  A  very  obstinate  case  of  piles  was 
cured  by  this  treatment. 

5709.  Internal   Remedy  for   Piles. 
Pulverize  in  a  mortar  and  mix  thoroughly, 
1  ounce  each  of  cream  of  tartar,  jalap,  senna, 
flowers  of  sulphur,  and  golden  seal,  and  i 
ounce  saltpetre.    Dose,  a  tea-spoonful  3  times 
a  day. 

5710.  External  Remedy  for  Piles.  Boil 
some  of  the  inner  bark  of  white  oak  in  water, 
and  strain ;  evaporate  to  a  thick  extract.    To 
J  pint  of  this  extract,  add  \  pint  of  oil  ren- 
dered from  old,  strong  bacon.     Simmer  to- 
gether till  mixed,  and  let  it  cool.    Apply  with 
the  finger  inside  the  rectum  every  night  and 
until  cured. 

5711.  Persulphate  of  Iron  for  Piles. 
An  ointment  made  of  \  drachm  persulphate 
of  iron,  and  1  ounce  simple  salve,  has  been 
found  especially  beneficial  in  cases  of  ulcera- 
ted hemorrhoid.    Dr.  Geo.  S.  Cartwright  de- 
scribes a  case  of  hemorrhoid  in  which  there 
was  an  external  tumor  of  the  size  of  a  large 
pea,  protruding,  at  certain  times,  to  the  size 
of  a  walnut.     He  applied  lead  water  freely  to 
the  part,  with  an  application  of  this  salve 
before  the  patient  retired  at  night,  and  the 
effect  was  almost  immediate,  relieving  the 
pain  and  cauterizing  the  part.     The  effect  of 
this  salve  is  permanent.     The  same  physician 
occasionally  uses  the  ointment  with  double 
the  above  proportion  of  the  persulphate. 

5712.  Treatment  for  Irregular  Men- 
struation, or  Monthly  Flow.      Where  the 
flow  is  absent,  or  irregular.     The  treatment 
of  cases  of  this  kind  should  embrace  every 

Eossible  means  of  improving  the  general 
ealth,  particularly  the  enjoyment  of  pure  air, 
and  the  use  of  the  shower  or  hip-bath  ;  mode- 
rate exercise,  especially  on  horseback ;  with  a 
wholesome  nutritious  diet.  The  medical 
treatment  must  not  be  trifled  with,  as  it  re- 
quires considerable  watching;  it  should 
therefore  be  earned  out  under  the  eye  of  a 
skillful  physician.  "When  the  slightest  ap- 
pearance of  menstruation  takes  place,  the 
patient  should  bo  kept  as  quiet  as  possible ; 
and,  in  order  to  encourage  the  flow,  recourse 
should  be  had  to  the  use  of  the  warm  hip- 
bath ;  indeed,  very  frequently  it  will  be 
found  that  a  hot  hip-bath,  containing  a  hand- 
ful of  the  flowers  of  mustard,  used  every 
night  for  the  week  preceding  the  regular 
time  for  the  flow  to  appear,  and  accompanied 
by  a  good  rubbing  with  a  rough  towel  of  the 
hips  and  lower  part  of  the  front  of  the  body 
will  greatly  assist  in  bringing  on  the  flow. 


5713.  Treatment  for  Interrupted  or 
Suppressed    Menstruation.      The     same 
suggestions  in  the  way  of  treatment  apply  as 
n  No.  5712.     "When  interruption  has   taken 
)lace  suddenly,  recourse  should  be  had  to  the 
warm  hip-bath,  bed,  and  some  warm  drink, 
such  as  sherry  and  water,  or  a  little  brandy, 
or  hot  ginger  water.      When  cessation  for 
one  or  more  periods  has  occurred,  then  it  is 
specially  important  to  favor,  as  much  as  pos- 
sible,  its  restoration  by  attention  to  those 
particulars  of  general  treatment  already  ad- 
verted to. 

5714.  Treatment  of  Excessive  Men- 
struation.     Those  who  are  liable  to  this 
'orm    of  irregular   menstruation    should  be 
;areful  in  their  diet,  choosing  a  plain  and  nu- 
tritious   one.      They  should    attend  to  the 
function  of  the  bowels,  and  maintain  a  hor- 
izontal posture  from  the  time  when  the  dis- 
charge commences  till  its  cessation.      In  ad- 
dition, if  the  discharge,  besides  being  copious, 
is  continuous,  recurring  over  and  over  again, 
it  is  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  powerful 
remedies.     "When  the  discharge  is  so  profuse 
as  rapidly  to  reduce  the  patient's  strength, 
still  more,  if  by  it,  as  has  happened  some- 
times, life  be  brought  into  peril,  local  means 
of  arresting  bleeding  must  also  be  adopted; 
foremost  among  these  is  the  application  of 
cold — cold  cloths  placed  over  the  lower  part 
of  the  body,  and  to  the  groins.     Injections  of 
cold  water  may  further  be  employed  if  the 
nurse  or  relatives  are  skilled  in  the  use  of  the 
injecting  instrument,  but  not  otherwise. 

5715.  Difficult  or  Painful  Menstrua- 
tion.    The  most  common  form  of  this  com- 
plaint is  ranged  under  the  head  of  neuralgia, 
for  the  violent  pain  with  which  it  is  accom- 
panied bears  a  close  resemblance  to  neuralgic 
pains  experienced  in  other  parts  of  the  body. 
In  such,  if  the  affection  is  of  long  standing, 
the  nervous  system  generally  has  probably 
sympathized,    and    headache,   with  hysteria 
and  many  other    distressing  symptoms,   ac- 
company   the     menstrual    disorder.      Many 
cases    of  this    nature    are    connected    with 
marked    constitutional    derangement,     more 
particularly  with  gout  and  rheumatism.     For 
the  relief  to  the  extreme  pain  which  accom- 
panies   the     complaint,    soothing    remedies 
are    rendered    indispensable,   and  the    most 
Suitable  niedical  ones  will  be  prescribed  by 
the  medical  attendant.     In  his  absence,   or 
conjoined  to  the  medicines,  the  warm   hip- 
bath may  be  tried,  followed  by  the  application 
of  mustard  poultices,  or  flannel  wrung  out 
of  hot  water  and  sprinkled  with  turpentine, 
over  the  lower  part  of  the  back.     In  the  gen- 
eral treatment,  the  greatest   attention  must 
be  paid  to  diet  and  regimen. 

5716.  Remedy  for  Suppressed  Men- 
struation.     Make  into  12  pills,   12  grains 
sulphate  of  iron,  6  grains  powdered  aloes,  and 
12  grains  white  turpentine.    Dose,  1  at  bed- 
time.    (See  No.  5441.; 

5717.  Ashwell's  Injection  for  Ob- 
structed Menstruation.  Mix  1  to  2  fluid 
drachms  liquor  of  ammonia  with  1  pint  of 
milk ;  use  thrice  daily,  commencing  with  the 
least  quantity  of  ammonia. 

5718.  Injection  for  Obstructed  Men- 
struation. Take  1  fluid  drachm  liquor  of 
ammonia,  1  ounce  mucilage,  and  9  fluid  oun- 


MEDJCAL    RECEIPTS. 


497 


ces  water ;  use  in  the  same  way  as  the  last 
receipt. 

5719.  Pills  for  Suppressed  Menstru- 
ation.    Take  dried  sulphate  of  iron,  1  scru- 
ple ;    powdered  aloes,  2  scruples ;   powdered 
cloves,'  5  grains  ;  Venice  turpentine,  sufficient 
to  make  a  mass,  and  divide  into  20  pills.     One 
pill  3  times  a  day. 

5720.  To  Relieve  Vomiting  During 
Pregnancy.     Mix  2  ounces  sweet  tincture  of 
rhubarb,  and  1  ounce  compound  tincture  of 
gentian.     Dose,  a  tea-spoonful  3  times  a  day. 

5721.  To    Cure   Vomiting   in  Preg- 
nancy.    Mix  1  drachm  carbonate  of  magne- 
sia, i  ounce  tincture  of  Colombo,  5i  ounces 
peppermint  water.    Take  a  table-spoonful  3 
times  a  day. 

5722.  Citric  Acid  in  After-pains.    Dr. 
J.  B.  Chagnon  recommends  citric  acid  for  the 
pains  following  labor,  and  declares  that  it  has 
never  failed  in  his  hands.     lie  gives  5  grains 
in  2  or  3  ounces  of  water  every  5  hours.     It 
acts  as  a  nervine,  and  as  a  preventive  of  in- 
flammation. 

5723.  Pills  to  Remove  Obstructions 
in  Females.     Aloes  and  lobelia,  1  drachm 
each ;  black  cohosh,  gum  myrrh,  tansy,  uni- 
corn root,  1  ounce  each ;  cayenne,  J  ounce. 
Mix,  and  form  into  pills  with  solution  of  gum. 
These  pills  remove  female  obstructions,  and 
are   good  for  headaches,  lowness  of  spirits, 
nervousness,  and  sallowness  of  the  skin. 

5724.  'Female  Regulating  Pills. 
Aloes,  red  oxido  of  iron,  white  turpentine, 
1  ounce  each.  Melt  the  turpentine,  and 
strain ;  mix  well ;  form  into  pills  with  muci- 
lage. Take  2  or  3  per  day. 

5725.  Alum  Injection  for     Leucor- 
rhcea.     Compound     solution    of    alum,     G 
drachms ;    water,    1    quart.      Mix,   and    use 
it  lukewarm. 

5726.  Lead  Injection   for      Leucbr- 
rhoea.   Sugar  of  lead,  GO  grains  ;   water,  1 
quart.     Mix. 

5727.  Catechu    Injection   for    Leu- 
corrhcea.       Catechu,    1  drachm ;    myrrh,   1 
drachm ;    lime-water,  12  ounces.     Mix,  and 
dilute  with  water. 

5728.  Caustic  Injection  for     Leucor- 
rhcea.   titrate  of  silver,  35  grains ;  water,  1 
quart.     Mix. 

5729.  Zinc    Injection   for      Leucor- 
rhcea.    Sulphate  of  zinc,  40  grains ;  water, 
1  quart.     Mix. 

5730.  To  Cure  Sore  Nipples.      This 
painful  affection  of  the  breast,  especially  so 
during  the  period  of  nursing,  may  be  cured 
as  follows :  Arrest  the  bleeding  by  a  slight 
application  of  compound  tincture  of  henzoin, 
carefully  dry  the  parts  with  a  soft  muslin 
handkerchief;    apply    a    solution    of   gutta- 
percha,   so  as  to    completely  surround   the 
nipple  and  cover  all  abrasions,  giving  it  three 
or  four  coatings,  allowing  each  to  dry  thor- 
oughly before  repeating  the  application.     Du- 
ring the  act  of  suction,  a  boxwood  shield, 
with  calf  s  teat,  should  bo  used,  and  in  the 
course  of  a  few  days  all  will  be  well.    The 
solution  of  gutta-percha  is  prepared  by  dis- 
solving 1  drachm  gutta  percha  in  a  bottle 
containing  3  drachms  chloroform.    The  film 
rapidly  formed  by  the    evaporation  of  the 
chloroform  is  firm,  elastic,  and  harmless,  and, 
should  it  rub  off,  is  very  easily  replaced.    The 


almost  painless  nature  of  the  treatment,  the 
effectual  protection  from  the  contact  of  tho 
air  and  irritation  of  the  infant's  mouth  re- 
commend it  strongly  to  general  use. 

5731.  Harjand's  Gonorrhoea  Cure. 
Mix  together  li  ounces  powdered  cubebs ;  k 
ounce  balsam  copaiba;  -J-  ounce  powdered 
gum-arabic ;  and  3  ounces  cinnamon  water. 
A  table-spoonful  of  the  mixture  to  be  taken 
at  intervals  8  times  a  day. 

5732.  Harland's    Gonorrhoea   Injec- 
tion.   Mix  2  scruples  Armenian  bole,  and  10 
grains  sulphate  of  zinc,  with  4  ounces  water. 
Inject  3  or  4  times  a  day. 

5733.  Goddard's  Gonorrhoea  Mixture. 
Take  2  drachms  oil  of  cubebs;  i  ounce  bal- 
sam of  copaiba ;  1  ounce  each  syrup  of  tolu 
and  syrup  of  poppy;  2  drachms  strong  liquor 
of  potassa ;  1  drachm  oil  of  juniper ;  and  2^- 
ounces  peppermint  water.     A  table-spoonful  3 
times  a  day. 

5734.  Goddard's    Gonorrhoea  Injec- 
tion.    Mix  3  drachms  solution  of  iodide  of 
iron  with  4  ounces  spring  water.    Apply  with 
a  syringe  3  times  a  day. 

5735.  Spackman's  Copaiba  Mixture. 
Mix  together  2  drachms  syrup  of  gum-arabic ; 
i  ounce  balsam  of  copaiba;  24  drops  oil  or 
cubebs ;  1  ounce  syrup  of  balsam  of  tolu ;  i 
ounce  each  sweet  spirits  of  nitre  and  com- 
pound tincture  of  opium ;  20  drops  tincture 
of  opium;    3  drops  oil  of  lavender,   and  3 
drachms  compound  spirits  of  lavender.    Dose, 
a  table-spoonful  3  times  a  day. 

5736.  Permanganate " of  Potassa  in 
Gonorrhoea.     Dr.  John  G.   Rich  has   em- 
ployed this  remedy  with  great  success.    Ho 
begins  the  treatment  with  a  purgative,  and 
then  uses  as  an  injection,  3  times  a  day,  6 
grains  of  permanganate  of  potassa  dissolved  in 
1  ounce  water. 

5737.  To  Apply  Caustic  to  the  Ure- 
thra.    A  weak  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver 
(2  or  3  grains  in  1  ounce  rose-water),  may  bo 
used  as  an  injection  twice  a  day.     Some  pre- 
fer a  stronger  solution  of  10   grains  to  tho 
ounce,  injected  every  2  or  3  days.    It  may  bo 
also  administered  as  an  ointment  of  10  to  £0 
grains  to  tho  ounce,  smeared  on  a  bougie  and 
introduced  into  the  urethra.     This  is  perhaps 
better  for  severer  cases  of  gonorrhoea;  tho  in- 
jections answering  the  purpose  for  milder  cases, 
and  gleet. 

5738.  Ricord's  Gonorrhoea  Injection. 
Mix  15  grains  each  sulphate  of  zinc  and  acetate 
of  lead,  with  6i  ounces  rose-water.    Inject  3 
times. a  day. 

5739.  Cure  for  Nocturnal  Emissions. 
Mix  50  grains  bromide  of  potassa  with  25 
grains    each    aromatic    powder    and    whito 
sugar.    Make  up  into  12  powders,  1  to  be 
taken  2  or  3  times  a  day. 

5740.  Remedy  for  Difficulty  in  Uri- 
nating.    Mix  together  1  scruple  each  oil  of 
turpentine,   extract   of  henbane,   and    soap. 
Make  it  into  12  pills,  and  administer  1  pill  3 
times  a  day. 

5741 .  To  Relieve  Spasm  of  the  Blad- 
der.    To  relieve  the  spasm,  place  the  patient 
in  a  hot  bath  immediately,  and  keep  him  there, 
supplying  fresh   hot    Water   when  required, 
until  he  is  relieved,  or  he  becomes  at  all  faint 
or  fatigued.    Then  put  him  into  a  bed  which 
has  previously  been  well  warmed,  and  keep 


498 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


hot  cloths,  hot  salt,  hot  bran,  or  hot  tins  ap- 
plied, to  prevent  a  return  of  the  pain  if  possi- 
ble ;  and  as  the  medical  treatment  is  of  great 
consequence,  lose  no  time  in  summoning  the 
medical  man. 

5742.  Remedy  for   Disease  of  the 
Kidneys.      Boil  1  ounce  pareira  brava  in 
3  pints  of  water  until  it  is  only  1  pint.     Dose, 
a  wine-glassful  3  times  a  day. 

5743.  Remedy  for  Incontinence  of 
Urine.     Put  4  drops  tincture  of  aconite  root 
in  a  tumbler  of  water.    Dose,  a  tea-spoonful 
every  hour  until  relieved. 

5744.  Remedy  for  Nocturnal  Incon- 
tinence of  Urine.     Nocturnal  incontinence 
of  urine  has  been  treated  successfully  by  ad- 
ministering from  15  to  20  minims  of  tincture 
of  belladonna  3  times  daily. 

5745.  Remedy  for  Incontinence  of 
Urine  of  Old  People.     The  continued  use 
of  1  to  6  drops  tincture  of  iodine  daily  has 
proved  a  successful  remedy. 

5746.  Remedy  for  *  Spermatorrhoea. 
Gelseminum,  £  grain ;  lupuliu,  3  grains.  To  be 
taken  each  night  on  retiring.     Gradually  di- 
minish the  dose  as  the  patient  shows  signs  of 
improvement. 

5747.  Belladonna  as  a  Remedy  for 
Typhoid  Fever.     Dr.  B.  Kelly,  of  Dublin, 
has  met  with  great  success  in  the  use  of  bel- 
ladonna in  typhoid  fever.    Within  24  hours 
after  the  first  dose,  he  found  delirium,  <fec., 
vanish,   succeeded    by  calm,  natural    sleep, 
clearness  of  intellect,  and  complete  repose  of 
the  system,  accompanied  by  regular  evacua- 
tions.    Dr.   Lewis   S.   Pilcher,  of  the  U.   S. 
Navy,  reports  equally  successful  results  from 
the  use  of  this  drug.     The  amount  and  fre- 
quency of  the  dose  will  probably  be  under- 
stood by  every  physician,  as  the  authorities 
above  quoted  do  not  specify  these  points. 

5748.  Remedy  for  Festering1  Wounds 
and  Cancers.      Professor  Boettger  recom- 
mends gun  cotton,  saturated  with  a  solution 
of  permanganate  of  potassa,  put  up  in  the 
form  of  a  poultice,  and  held   over  an  open 
wound  by  a  bandage,  as  the  best  disinfectant 
for  bad  odors  that  can  bo  conveniently  ap- 
plied.   The  strength  of  the  solution  of  per- 
manganate, best  adapted  for  the  purpose,  is  1 

;art,  by  weight,  of  the  dry  permanganate,  in 
00  parts  water.     Ordinary  cotton  cannot  be 
taken,  as  it  readily  decomposes,  but  gun  cot- 
ton is  permanent,  and  not  liable  to  explosion 
when  in  a  moist  state. 

5749.  Treatment  for  Measles.    In  the 
treatment  of  the  ordinary  cases  of  measles 
occurring  in  children  otherwise  than  delicate, 
little  is  necessary  beyond  attention  to  the 
temperature  of  the  room,  the  amount  of  the 
bed-clothes,   preventing    the    access    of  too 
strong  a  light,  which  affects  the  eyes,  <fcc. 
Great  care  should  be  taken  that  draughts  of 
cold  air  are  avoided,  lest  they  might  prove 
the  cause  of  increase  in  the  chest  complaint, 
which  generally  attends    the    attack;    and, 
while  the  room  is  not  overheated,  it  must  not, 
for  the  same  reason,  be  allowed  to  be  cool. 
It  must  be  remembered  that  in  measles,  as  in 
all  fevers  accompanied  by  an  eruption,  the 
patient  will  require  a  more  abundant  supply 
of  blankets,  «fec.,  before  the  eruption  appears, 
than  after  it.    Indeed,  afterwards,  he  gener- 
ally desires  light  clothing.    The  room  should 


be  well  ventilated ;  all  excrements  and  dirty 
linen  immediately  removed.  Disinfectants 
should  be  used.  The  sense  of  heat  and  dry- 
ness  of  the  body,  sometimes  most  distressing 
to  the  patient,  can  be  much  alleviated  by 
washing  the  surface  with  soap  and  tepid 
water;  too  great  exposure  being  avoided  by 
one  part  of  the  body  being  cleansed,  dried, 
and  covered,  before  the  rest  is  exposed.  The 
feeling  of  tension  of  the  hands  and  feet  can  be 
relieved  by  rubbing  these  parts  with  some 
greasy  matter,  such  as  lard  or  simple  salve. 
All  sources  of  annoyance  or  irritation,  all 
noises,  should  be  avoided,  and  thus  sleep  is 
promoted,  a  condition  which  most  materially 
affects  the  welfare  of  the  patient,  sleep  lessen- 
ing the  fever  and  increasing  the  appetite. 
Food,  light  and  nutritious,  such  as  arrowroot, 
gruel,  good  beef-tea,  milk,  chicken,  or  veal 
broth,  plain  wine,  jellies,  &c.,  should  be 
given  at  the  usual  hours.  The  quantity 
should  be  moderate,  great  care  being  taken 
that  the  digestion  be  not  impaired  by  too 
large  a  quantity  being  taken.  Should  the 
patient  be  very  weak,  the  food  must  be  ad- 
ministered in  small  quantities  at  frequently 
repeated  intervals.  There  is  no  stimulant  so 
important  as  food.  The  prospect  of  recovery 
in  all  fevers  is  very  greatly  if  not  mainly  de- 
pendent on  the  power  of  digesting  and  assim- 
ilating food  possessed  by  the  patient.  The 
bowels  should  be  moved  by  a  mild  laxative, 
such  as  the  lenitive  electuary  (see  No.  5154), 
effervescing  magnesia,  or  castor  oil ;  and,  so 
as  to  produce  a  little  perspiration,  a  small 
dose  (for  a  child.  atea-?poonful),  of  mindt?renis 
spirit  (see  No.  5143),  in  a  little  water,  may  lie 
given  at  intervals  of  2  or  3  hours.  If  the 
rash  is  long  in  appearing,  or  shows  a  disposi- 
tion to  disappear,  the  development  of  the 
eruption  may  be  secured  by  placing  the  child 
in  a  warm  bath;  if  the  child  appears  sunk 
and  the  pulse  be  feeble,  a  little  warm  wine 
and  water  may  be  administered.  In  ordinary 
cases,  the  early  appearance  of  the  eruption 
will  be  favored  by  administering  a  dose  of 
sulphur  (a  small  tea-spoonful  for  a  child,  in 
milk);  and  if  there  be  much  hoarseness,  and 
croupy  character  of  the  breathing  and  cough, 
it  will  be  expedient  to  apply  a  hot  sponge 
over  the  throat.  (See  No.  5620.)  With  the 
appearance  of  the  eruption,  these  symptoms 
usually  decline.  Measles  not  unfrequently 
terminate  in  an  attack  of  bowel  complaint; 
this  may  be  slight,  and  if  so,  will  not  require 
any  medicinal  treatment ;  indeed,  it  is  salu- 
tary, but,  on  the  other  hand,  when  severe, 
and  occurring  in  a  delicate  child,  prompt 
means  for  arresting  it  must  be  adopted  (such 
as  are  mentioned  under  the  head  of  Diarrhea. 
(See  No.  5G52,  ^-c.)  If  there  be  often-repeated 
sickness,  food  of  the  very  blandest  nature, 
pounded  raw  meat  (the  fat  and  gristle  being 
removed  before  pounding),  beef-tea,  uncooked 
white  of  egg  diluted  with  water,  barley 
water,  &c.,  should  be  given  in  small  quanti- 
ties, and  be  very  frequently  repeated.  Thirst, 
and  the  consequent  restlessness,  must  be  al- 
layed by  drinks.  Large  draughts  should  be 
prohibited,  as  they  tend  to  impair  the  diges- 
tion, and  sometimes  cause  diarrhea;  small 
quantities,  swallowed  slowly,  or  ice  to  suck, 
are  sufficient  to  allay  thirst,  and  also  prove 
grateful  to  the  patient.  The  patient,  however, 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


499 


must  be  rJlowed  to  take  larger  quantities  of 
fluids  than  in  health,  as  an  increased  quantity 
is  required  by  the  system  during  the  existence 
of  fever.  Acid,  or  acid  and  bitter  drinks  are 
generally  found  to  lessen  thirst  to  a  greater 
degree  than  mere  water,  and  are,  moreover, 
grateful  to  the  patent.  Lemonade  with  very 
little  sugar,  or  raspberry  vinegar  and  water, 
will  be  found  useful.  Stimulants  are  admin- 
istered to  support  the  strength  of  the  patient. 
This  they  do  in  a  great  measure  by  promoting 
digestion,  and  by  also  directly  increasing  the 
force  of  the  heart's  action.  The  administra- 
tion and  quantity  of  stimulants  given  cannot 
bo  regulated  by  the  condition  of  the  patient. 
Medical  ad  vice"  is  particularly  necessary  here. 
Various  complications  are  apt  to  take  place, 
RO  that,  if  possible,  advice  should  be  had 
early  in  the  day.  If  no  advice  is  at  hand, 
the  symptoms  must  bo  treated  according 
to  the  directions  given  under  the  particular 
heads. 

5750.  Scarlet  Fever.  The  preliminary 
treatment  for  this  disease  is  very  similar  to 
that  for  measles.  Give  the  patient  a  gentle 
cathartic,  and  keep  very  warm  in  bed  until  the 
eruption  appears.  (See  No.  5749.)  The  after- 
treatment  consists  of  administering  a  gargle 
every  15  minutes,  when  the  patient  is  awake. 
Make  a  gargle  of  2  table-spoonfuls  each 
brewer's  yeast  and  strained  honey,  mixed 
with  1  pint  strong  sage  tea,  and  alternate  it 
with  the  potassa  gargle.  (See  No.  5034.) 
Keep  the  skin  of  tho  patient  moist  by  wash- 
ing all  over,  at  least  3  times  a  day,  with  a  so- 
lution of  saleratus  aud  water  as  hot  as  it  can 
be  borne ;  after  each  washiug  grease  tho  pa- 
tient all  over  thoroughly,  with  a  piece  of  1'at 
bacon.  Great  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent 
the  patient  from  catching  cold  iu  every  stage 
of  the  disease,  and  the  same  cautions  about 
ventilation,  warmth,  diet,  <fcc.,  given  under 
tho  head  of  measles,  must  also  be  observed 
in  the  treatment  of  scarlet  fever.  The  patient 
must  not  be  exposed  to  any  great  or  sudden 
changes  of  temperature,  even  3  weeks  after 
convalescence,  as  a  relapse  might  bo  the  con- 
sequence. 

5751.  Preliminary  Treatment  of 
Scarlatina  and  Measles.  The  preliminary 
treatment  is  simple :  from  k  gram  calomel, 
for  children,  to  5  grains  for  adults,  should  be 
placed  on  the  tongue  and  swallowed.  About 
an  hour  after,  the  first  dose  of  the  amYnonia 
(.?ee  next  receipt)  is  to  be  given,  aud  repeated 
every  3  or  4  hours,  as  long  as  the  disorder 
takes  a  favorable  course.  If  the  disorder  in- 
creases in  violence,  the  medicine  must  be 
given  every  2  hours,  or  every  hour,  or  some- 
times even  more  frequently,  till  the  graver 
symptoms  are  subdued.  This  medicine  has 
been  found  to  possess  similar  powers  over 
diphtheria. 

5752.  Treatment  of  Scarlatina  and 
Measles.  Dr.  Witt  states  that  sesquicarbon- 
ate  of  ammonia  is  an  antidote  to  scarlatina 
and  measles.  The  dose  in  these  complaints 
varies  from  3  to  10  grains,  according  to  the 
age  of  tho  patient,  given  at  longer  or  shorter 
intervals,  according  to  the  mildness  or  sever- 
ity of  the  attack.  The  suitable  dose  dissolved 
in  as  small  a  quantity  of  cold  water  as  will 
admit  of  its  being  swallowed  with  as  many 
grains  of  loaf  sugar,  merely  to  make  it  palata- 


ble, is  all  that  is  required.  Any  admixture 
with  other  medicines,  as  salines,  bark,  «fcc., 
and  all  acidulous  drinks,  are  to  be  avoided.  . 

5753.  Preventive  of  Scarlet  Fever. 
Belladonna  has  been  found  to  render  persons 
unsusceptible  to  the  fever,  in  places  where  it 
is  raging.    It  is  to  be  given  in  extract,  s!<j- 
grain  morning  and  evening. 

5754.  Bexnedy  for  Dropsy  in  Scarla- 
tina.    Mix  together   lj  drachms  acetate  of 
potassa;    6    grains    extract  of   foxglove;    2 
drachms  vinegar  of  squill ;  6  drachms  syrup 
of  ginger ;  and  2  ounces  water.    Dose,  1  tea- 
spoonful  every  3  hours. 

5755.  Atlee's  Scarlet  Fever  Remedy. 
^  ounce  each  chlorate  of  potassa  and  hydro- 
chloric   acid,     and    i    ounce    spring   water. 
Dose,  10  drops  in  a  wine-glassful  of  cold  wa- 
ter every  2  hours. 

5756.  Intermittent  Fever  Pills. 
Take  10  to  12  grains  white  oxide  of  arsenic ; 
1  drachm  muriate  of  ammonia,  and  12  grains 
gum  opium.  Make  into  04  pills.  Dose,  1  to 
be  taken  morning,  noon  and  night,  with  or 
without  fever. 

5757.  Intermittent  Fever   Mixture. 
Take  5  grains  tannin,  1G  grains  .sulphate  of 
quinine,  1  ounce  syrup  of  ginger,  and  A  ounce 
cinnamon  water.     Take  1  tea-spoonful  every 
hour,  in  the  absence  of  the  fever.. 

5758.  Treatment     of    Small-Pox. 
Advice  should  always  be  obtained  as  soon  as 
the    earliest    symptoms    appear;    often    the 
only  symptom  understood  by  the  parents  or 
friends  is  the  eruption..     la  the  absence  of 
advice,  the  simpler  cases  of  small-pox,  un- 
attended by  much  eruption,  scarcely  require 
any  further  treatment  than  confinement  of 
tho    patient    to  bed,    aclminstering    at    tho 
commencement  a  dose  of  aperient  medicine, 
such  as  effervescing  magnesia  (see  No,  4805, 
<ji'C.,)  or  castor  oil,  <tc.,  and,  .until  tho  erup- 
tion  appears,  of  a  f:;w  doses  of  mindererus 
spirit  (see  No.  5143),  to  promote  perspiration. 
In  the  more  severe  cases  there  are  individual 
symptoms  of  an  unfavorable  nature  not  un- 
likely to  be  developed,  and  these  must  be  met 
by    appropriate    treatment.      The    imperfect 
filling  of  the  pustules  is  generally  accom- 
panied by  a  low  form  of  fever,  requiring  tho 
use    of   stimulants,   wine  or  brandy;  these 
must,  of  course,  be  administered  with  great 
caution.     In  all  stages,  if  tho  patient  present 
a  sunken  look,  and  the  pulse  be  feeble,  the 
necessity  for    stimulants  is  indicated.      By 
giving  them  with  caution  is  meant  that  only 
just  sufficient  to  keep  tip   the  vital  powers 
should  bo  given. 

5759.  To  Prevent  Pitting  in  Small- 
Pox.      Tho  following  has  been  f;;und  very 
effectual :  The  application  consists  of  a  solu- 
tion of  india-rubber  in  chloroform,  which  is 
painted  with  a  camel-hair  pencil  over  tho  sur- 
face  of  the  skin,  where  exposed,  when  the 
eruption  has  become  fully  developed.    TFhen 
the  chloroform  has  evaporated,  which  it  very 
readily  does,  there  is  left  a  thin  elastic  film 
of  india-rubber  over  the  face.     This  the  pa- 
tient feels  to  be  rather  comfortable,  as  it  re- 
moves itching  and  all  irritation;  and,  what 
is  more  important,  pitting,  once  BO  common, 
is  thoroughly  prevented  by  the  application. 
In  making    the    solution,    the  india-rulilicr 
must  be  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  chloroform 


5OO 


MEDICAL   RECEIPTS. 


added  till  it  is  dissolved.  Gutta-percha  has 
been  tried,  but  has  not  answered,  on  account 
of  its  non-elasticity.  Should  any  of  the  solu- 
tion, from  some  cause,  be  torn  off,  apply  the 
solution  as  before. 

5760.  Dr.    George's    Treatment    to 
Prevent   Pitting    in    Small-Pox.       Dr. 
George  recommends  the  following  treatment : 
Firstly,  from  the  commencement  of  the  dis- 
ease cover  the  whole  body,  face  and  all,  with 
calamine,  shaken  through  a  common  pepper- 
box, taking  care  that  the  powder  does  not 
remain   in    masses.      The  inflammation,  on 
each  pustule  is  by  these  applications  much 
lessened,  a  point  of  great  consequence.    Sec- 
ondly, sprinkle  about  1  ounce  powdered  cam- 
phor every  2  or  3  nights  between  the  tinder 
sheet  and  blanket,  the  -whole  length  of  the 
body,  putting  more  about  the  shoulders  and 
neck.     The  relief  obtained  by  this,  few  "would 
credit  until  they  had  had  experience.     Third- 
lv,    in  the    advanced  stage  of  the  disease, 
should  hardened  incrustations  have  formed, 
they  may  be  removed,  and  without  much 
pain  too ;  for  in  one  case  every  portion  of 
the  cuticle  was  removed  from  the  whole  face, 
forehead,  and  even  eyelids,  the  calamine  ap- 

Elied,   and  in  a  few  days  the  cuticle  was 
srmed  again  without  a  blemish. 

5761.  Calamine.     Kative  carbonate  of 
zinc.    It  is  prepared  and  purified  for  medi- 
cinal purposes  by  heating  to  redness,   and 
pulverizing  it,  afterwards  reducing  it  to  an 
impalpable  powder  in  the  same  manner  as 
directed     for    prepared     chalk.      (See   No. 
1292.) 

5762.  To  Remove  Pitting  and  Old 
Pock-Marks.     To  remove  pitting  and  old 
pock-marks,  simple  oil,  pomade,  or  ointment, 
medicated  with  crotou-oil,  and  of  a  strength 
just  sufficient  to  raise  a  very  slight  pustular 
eruption,    is  probably  the  safest  and  most 
effective  and  convenient  of  all  the  prepara- 
tions that  are  employed  for  the  purpose.     It 
has  for  some  years  been  successfully  employ- 
ed in  France  and  has  there  received  medical 
approval.     Dr.  Cooley  says  he  has  seen   it 
sxicceed    to  admiration,  when  every    other 
method  has  failed.    It  should  be  applied  at 
intervals    extending  over  several  weeks,  as 
the  feelings,  experience,  and  convenience  of 
the  party  concerned  may  indicate,  due  care 
and  caution  being  observed  the  wholo  time. 

5763.  Treatment  of  an   Attack  of 
Apoplexy.      Loosen  the  clothes,  especially 
those  about  the  neck  and  throat,  and  send  at 
once  for  a  physician.      Meanwhile,  remove 
the  patient  into  a  cool,  well-ventilated  room, 
raise  the  head  above  the  level  of  the  body, 
and  apply  cold  to  the  head,  either  by  means 
of  rags  dipped  in  water,  never  allowing  them 
to  become  warm,  or  by  ice  in  a  bladder,  «tc. 
The  diet  will  require  great  care  when  the 
patient  is  reviving.      Only  very  small  quanti- 
ties of  milk,  beef-tea,   &c.,  must  be  given 
until  ho  is  able  to  digest  more.     Supposing 
the  patient  to  recover  from  the  fit,  great  care 
will    be    afterwards    required  to    prevent  a 
second  attack.     Strong  medicines,  great  ex- 
citement, or  much  mental  occupation  are  to 
be  avoided.     The  diet  ought  to  be  light,  but 
nutritious;  milk  is  useful,  taken  to  the  extent 
of  1£  or  2  pints  in  the  day ;  and,  as  a  rule,  no 
spirits  or  wine  should  be  allowed. 


5764.  Remedy   for     Shortness     of 
Breath.     Take  spirits  of  ether,  1  ounce,  and 
camphor,  12    grains.     Make    a    solution,   of 
which  take  a  tea-spoonful  during  the  parox- 
ysm.     This  is  usually  found  to    afford   in- 
stantaneous  relief  in  difficult   breathing,  de- 
pending on  internal  disease  and  other  causes, 
where  the  patient,  from  a  quick  and  very 
laborious  breathing,   is  obliged  to  be  in  an 
erect  posture. 

5765.  To  Relieve  Shortness  of  Breath. 
Take  J  ounce  powder  of  elecampane  root,  £ 
ounce  powder  of  liquorice,  as  much  flower  of 
brimstone  and  powder  of  aniseed,  and  2  oun- 
ces  sugar-candy  powdered.      Make   all  into 
pills,  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  tar;  take  4 
large  pills  when  going  to  rest.     This  is  an  in- 
comparable medicine  for  asthma. 

5766.  Palpitation     of    the    Heart. 
Soda  water,  either  the  usual  carbonated  wa- 
ter, or  prepared  from  effervescing  soda  pow- 
ders, frequently  gives  instant  relief  in  an  at- 
tack of  palpitation  of  the  heart. 

5767.  To  Relieve  Palpitation  of  the 
Heart.     Take  40  drops  tincture  of  digitalis 
(fox-glove) ;   20  drops  tincture  of  aconite  ;  2 
drachms    tincture    of   henbane ;    6  drachms 
camphor- water.    Dose,  a  tea-spoonful  3  times 
a  day. 

5768.  Biliousness.      Persons  subject  to 
bilious  attacks  should  be  particularly  careful 
to  guard  against  excess  in  eating  and  drink- 
ing, and  should  especially  avoid  those  articles 
of  food  which,  from  experience,  they  find  to 
disagree  with  them.    A  mutton  chop  under- 
cooked  is  an  excellent  article  for  the  b'reak- 
fast  or  lunch  of  a  bilious  patient;  and  mutton 
or  beef,  either  broiled  or  roasted,  so  that  the 
gravy  be  retained,  is  better  for  dinner  than 
many    articles     apparently     more    delicate. 
Beer  and  porter  should  be  particularly  avoid- 
ed, as  well  as  puddings  and  most  articles  of 
pastiy,  as  they  are  very  indigestible.      Hard 
cheese,  butter,   unripe  fruit,  and  especially 
beans,  peas,  and  nuts,  are  also  objectionable. 
An  attack  of  bile  may  frequently  be  prevent- 
ed by  the  use  of  a  saline  purgative,  and  it 
may  generally  be  removed  by  a  blue  pill,  fol- 
lowed with  a  mild  purgative. 

5769.  To  Remove  Tumors.      To  re- 
move tumors,  Dr.  Simpson,  of  Edinburgh,  in- 
troduces a  hollow  acupuncture  needle,  or  very 
fine    trocar  (a  surgical    instrument  in    the 
form  of  a  fine  hollow  needle)  into  their  tis- 
sue, and  injects  a  few  drops  of  some  irritant 
liquid,  such  as  a  solution  of  chloride  of  zinc, 
perchloride  of  iron,  or  creosote.      The  effect 
has  been  to  destroy  the  vitality  of  the  tu- 
mors so  treated,  and  they  have  been  separa- 
ted.   A    similar  plan  has   been   adopted   in 
Paris  by  M.  Maisonneuye.     He  had  slender 
stylets  made  of  a  paste  composed  of  flour, 
water,    and    chloride    of    zinc.      These    are 
baked.    A  puncture  is  made  in  the  tumor, 
the  caustic  stylet  is  inserted,  broken  off,  and 
left.      Several  malignant  tumors  have  been 
successfully  treated  in  this  manner,   and  in 
some    cases    a  healthy    granulating  surface 
was  left,  after  the  separation  of  tumors  which 
had  been  destroyed  in  this  manner. 

5770.  Treatment  of  Rupture.     Enp- 
ture  is  generally  caused  by  a  strain    or  an 
accident,  and  should  be  attended  to  by  a  sur- 
geon as  soon  as  possible.     Meanwhile   the 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


501 


patient  must  bo  iaid  upon  a  sofa  or  bed  with 
his  hips  and  legs  slightly  raised,  so  as  to  give 
him  ease  and  to  place  the  rapture  in  the 
most  favorable  position  for  being  restored  to 
its  proper  place.  If  the  patient  is  faint,  sup- 
port him  by  giving  wine  and  •water,  or  sal- 
volatile,  or  a  little  broth,  but  do  not  over-stim- 
ulate him.  In  other  respects  he  must  be  kept 
perfectly  quiet. 

5771.  To  Believe  Lockjaw.      Let  any 
one  who  has   an  attack   of  lockjaw  take  a 
small  quantity  of  spirits  of  turpentine,  warm 
it,   and   pour  it  on  the  wound,   no  matter 
where  the  wound  is,  or  what  its  nature  is, 
and  relief  will  follow  in  less  than   1  minute. 
Nothing  better  can  be  applied  to  a  severe  cut 
or  bruise  than  cold  turpentine;  it  will  give 
certain  relief  almost  instantly. 

5772.  Cure    for  Cancer.     The  use   of 
clover  tea  is  said  to  effect  speedy  and  effectual 
cures  of  cancer,  even  in  its  most  malignant 
form,  and  of  long  standing.     The  red  clover 
is  used ;  the  tops  are  boiled  in  water,  and  the 
tea  is  used  externally  and  internally.     About 
a  quart  a  day  should  be  administered  internal- 
ly, and  the  tea  should  be  used  as  a  wash  twice 
everv  day. 

5773.  Remedy  for   Scrofula.     Put  1 
ounce  aqua-1'ortis  in  a  bowl  or  saucer;  drop 
in  it  2  copper  cents;  when  the  effervescence 
ceases,   add  2   ounces   strong  vinegar.     The 
fluid  will  be  of  a  dark  green  color.     It  should 
and  will  smart.     If  too  severe,  dilute  it  with 
a  little   rain-water.     Apply  it  to   the  sore, 
morning  and  evening,  by  a  soft  brush  or  a 
rag.     Before  applying  it,  wash  the  sore  with 
water.     This  receipt  comes  well  recommended 
for  curing  old  sores  and  other  scrofulous  erup- 
tions. 

5774.  Anti-Scrofulous  Mixture.    Mix 
30  drops  tincture   of  bichloride  of  gold1;   40 
drops  tincture  of  iodine;  1  fluid  drachm  tinc- 
ture of  gentian;  7  fluid  drachms  simple  syrup, 
and  5  fluid  ounces  rose-water.     Dose,  a  des- 
sert-spoonful 3  or  4  times  daily,  in  a  wine- 
glassful  of  water,   observing  to  shake  well 
before  pouring  out  the  liquid. 

5775.  White  Swelling.    This  is  a  very 
painful  disease ;  it  more  frequently  affects  the 
knee  than  any   other  joint;   sometimes  the 
hip,  ankle,  and  elbow.    At  first  a  severe  pain 
is  felt  penetrating  the  joint,  or  only  one  par- 
ticular part  of  the  joint.     The  least  motion 
aggravates  the  pain.     It  soon  begins  to  swell 
considerably,   and    suppuration  takes  place. 
Matter  is  discharged  from  several  openings  or 
ulcers,  the  bones  are  affected;  and  if  the  dis- 
ease is  not  arrested  the  life  of  the  patient  is 
endangered. 

5776.  Treatment  of  White  Swelling. 
Attend  to  the  stomach  and  bowels,  giving  an 
emetic  and  an  aperient,  if  needed ;  to  be  fol- 
lowed by  bitter  tonics  occasionally,  giving  the 
alterative  syrup  (see  No.  51G3),  diluted  when 
first  taken;   or  a  decoction  of  sarsaparilla, 
sassafras,  guaiacum,  queen's  delight,  unicorn 
root,  cleavers,  and  prickly  ash  berries,  of  each 
1  ounce.    Simmer  in  a  covered  pan  with  2 
quarts  water  down  to  3  pints.     Sweeten.    A 
dessert-spoonful  3  or  4  times  a  day.     Steam 
the  part  with  bitter  herbs,  and  now  and  then 
give  a  vapor  bath  to  the  whole  body.    After 
steaming    the    affected  part,   rub    the    limb 
with  the  rheumatic  liquid.     (See  No.  4684.) 


5777.  Beach's  Cure  for  White  Swell- 
ing.    Oil  of  hemlock,  oil  of  sassafras,  gum 
camphor,  tincture  of  opium,  £  ounce  each,  and 
a  pint  of  spirits  of  wine.    "When  dissolved 
and  properly  mixed,  bathe  the  part  with  it 
frequently.    Then  apply  an  oatmeal  and  bran 
poultice,  mixed  with  a  little  finely  powdered 
charcoal,   salt,  and  cayenne  pepper.    If  the 
pain  is  great,  sprinkle  on  the  poultice  J  ounce 
laudanum.    Keep  it  on  as  long  as  possible,  and 
then  steam. 

5778.  To  Believe  Sea-Sickness.    Take 
camphorated  spirit,  sal-volatile,  and  Hoffman's 
anodyne,  a  few  drops  of  each,  mixed  in  a 
small  quantity  of  water,  or  upon  a  email  lump 
of  sugar.     This  often  relieves  when  other 
prescriptions  fail. 

5779.  To  Prevent  Sea-Sickness.    The 
neutralizing  mixture  (see  No.  5GGG)  is  a  good 
preventive.     So  is  a  tea-spoonful  of  bicarbon- 
ate of  soda  in  i   pint  of  water.     Take  an 
aperient  before  a  voyage.     One  of  the  best 
means  of  counteracting  the  tendency  to  sea- 
sickness, is  to  keep  a  horizontal  position.     A 
little  chloroform  has  lately  been  suggested  as 
a  good  remedy.    5  to  10  drops  on  a  piece  of 
lump  sugar. 

57Sp.  Treatment  of  Debility.  This 
arises  from  a  diseased  action  of  the  stomach; 
the  occasional  use  of  mild  aperients,  fol- 
lowed by  bitters  and  tonics,  is  the  best  treat- 
ment. TVhen,  from  a  general  laxity  of  the 
solids,  and  there  are  no  symptoms  of  fever, 
nor  a  tendency  of  the  blood  to  the  head,  a 
course  of  iron  tonics  will  prove  advantageous. 
Either  of  the  following  may  be  adopted  for 
this  purpose:  Pure  sulphate  of  iron,  1  drachm; 
extract  of  gentian  and  powdered  ginger,  of 
each  1-J-  drachms ;  beat  together  into  a  mass, 
and  divide  into  120  pills,  1  to  be  taken  morn- 
ing, noon,  and  night.  Or :  Sulphate  of  iron, 
and  powdered  myrrh,  of  each  1  drachm ;  sul- 
phate of  quinine,  i  drachm;  conserve  of  roses, 
sufficient  to  form  a  pill  mass.  Divide  into  120 
pills,  administered  as  the  last. 

5781.  Remedy  for  Sick  Stomach  and 
Vomiting.    Mix  24  drops  creosote,  1  drachm 
each  white   sugar    and  gum-arabic,   with  3 
ounces    water.      Administer    a    tea-spoonful 
every  2  hours,  until  vomiting  ceases. 

5782.  Sunstroke.      This  is   a  sudden 
prostration  due  to  long  exposure  to  great  heat, 
especially  when  much  fatigued  or  exhausted. 
It  commonly  happens  from  nndue  exposure 
to  the  sun's  rays  in  summer,  but  the  same 
effects  have  been  produced  in  a  baker  from 
great  heat  of  the  hake-room.     It  begins  with 
pain  in  the  head,  or  dizziness,  quickly  followed 
by  loss  of  consciousness  and  complete  prostra- 
tion.    Sometimes,  however,  the  attack  is  as 
sudden  as  a  stroke  of  apoplexy.     The  head  13 
often  burning  hot,  the  face  dark  and  swollen, 
the  breathing  labored  and  snoring,  and  the 
extremities  cold. 

5783.  Treatment  of  Sunstroke.    Take 
the  patient  at  once  to  a  cool  and  shady  place, 
but  don't  carry  him  far  to  a  house  or  hospital. 
Loosen  the  clothes  thoroughly  about  his  neck 
and  waist.    Lay  him  down  with  the  head  a 
little  raised.    Apply  wet  cloths  to  the  head, 
and  mustard  or  turpentine  to  the  calves  of  the 
legs  and  the  soles  of  the  feet.     Give  a  little 
weak  whiskey  and  water  if  he  can  swallow. 
Meanwhile  let  some  one  go  for  the  doctor. 


5O2 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS 


Toil  cannot  safely  do  more  "without  his  ad- 
vice. 

5784.  Precautions   Against  Night- 
mare.     Avoid   all  exciting  causes,   as    too 
much  abstruse  thinking,  lato  and  heavy  sup- 
pers, food  difficult  of  digestion,  cold  feet,  cos- 
tiveness,  and  flatulence. 

5785.  To   Prevent   the  Nightmare. 
To  prevent  the  nightmare,  mix  together  10 
grains  carbonate  of  soda;   3  drachms  com- 
pound tincture  of  cardamoms ;  1  drachm  sim- 
ple syrup,  and  1  ounce  peppermint  water. 
Kepeat  for  several  nights  in  succession ;  after- 
wards use  for  a  few  weeks  the  tonic  aromatic 
mixture.    (See  JVo.  5124.)    Also  a  little  cay- 
enne in  scullcap  tea  wfli  prevent  an  attack. 
Those  who  are  habitually  subject  to  night- 
mare should  not  sleep  in  a  room  alone,  but 
have  some  person  near  them,  to  arouse  them 
when  attacked  with  it.    A  person  is  most  lia- 
ble to  nightmare  "when  sleeping  on  his  back ; 
ia  fact,  it  rarely  occurs  in  any  other  posture. 
Those   subject  to  it  should  therefore  avoid 
sleeping  in  a  bed  which  is  hollow  in  the  centre, 
as  this  induces  tho  sleeper  to  lay  on  his  back. 
The  bed  should  bo  level  and  not  too  soft,  and 
the  pillow  moderate  in  thickness,  so  that  the 


head  is  not  raised  too  high. 
5788.      To    Restrain 


Perspiration. 


Spring  water,  2  ounces;  diluted  sulphuric 
acid,  40  drops ;  compound  spirits  of  lavender, 
2  drachms;  take  a  tablc-spoonfnl  twice  a 
day. 

5787.  Remedy  for  Night  Sweats  of 
Consumption.  M.  Guyot  recommends  as 
particularly  useful,  in  the  sweats  of  consump- 
tion, the  phosphate  of  lime  in  quantities  of 
from  k  to  li  drachms  in  tho  day.  In  a  small 
proportion  of  cases  it  may  be  inert;  but  in  the 
majority  it  will  diminish  or  quite  remove  the 
trouble. 

57S8.  Treatment  for  Night-Sweats 
in  Consumption.  Powdered  boras,  65 
drachms;  washed  sulphur,  1  ounce;  sub- 
nitrate  of  bismuth,  li  drachms;  divide  into 
40  powders,  1  to  be  given  every  2  hours  (12  a 
day).  4  to  5  days  of  treatment  will  suspend 
or  diminish  this  troublesome  and  exhaust- 
ing symptom,  and  give  much  relief  to  tho  pa- 


Dis- 


tient. 

5789.  To  Relieve  Night-Sweats. 

solve  15  grains  sulphate  of  quinine  in  ^  ounce 
essence  of  tansy,  J  ounce  alcohol,  J  ounce 
water,  and  30  drops  muriatic  acid.  A  tea- 
spoonful  taken  2  or  3  times  during  the  day 
and  at  bed-time.  In  connection  with  this 
remedy,  cold  sago  tea  is  recommended  to  be 
used  freely  as  a  drink. 

5790.  Squinting.      It  is  well   known 
that  in  infancy  there  is  not  unfrcqueutly  a 
tendency  to  s'quint ;  this  often  passes  away  as 
the  child  increases  in  ago;  but  it  sometimes 
becomes  quite  a  fixed  habit,  requiring  a  surgi- 
cal operation  for  its  permanent  cure.  A  means 
of  rendering  this  operation  unnecessary  by 
curing  tho  tendency  in  early  life  has  been 
suggested,  which  is  worthy  of  trial.    A  pair 
of  spectacles  is  procured  without  any  glasses 
in  them.     One  of  the  orifices  opposite  the  eye 
that  squints  is  to  be  filled  with  thin  horn  V>r 
with  ground  glass,  and  in  tho  centre  of  the 
horn  or  glass  is  to  be  made  a  small  hole.     It 
is  obvious  that  to  see  with  the  squinting  eye 

:*-:..  j» A.  \ t_  •  i  ^    A  _   i  _  .  v_    _i  •          i  ^ 


through  the  orifice  in  the  centre.  He  will 
thus  acquire  the  habit  of  looking  forward 
towards  an  object,  instead  of  looking  to  tto 
right  or  left  hand  of  it.  It  is  not  at  all  im- 
probable that  the  slight  squint,  which  in  in- 
fancy is  apparently  only  a  habit,  may  be  reme- 
died by  this  means. 

5791.  Treatment  of  Styes.  A  stye  is 
a  small  boil  which  projects  from  the  eyelid, 
much  inflamed,  and  very  painful.  The  appli- 


cation of  ice  to  tho  part  will  sometimes  check 
it  in  the  beginning.  Apply  a  poultice  of  lin- 
seed meal,  or  bread  and  milk,  and  take  at  the 
same  time  an  aperient.  If  the  stye  is  ripe, 
puncture  it,  and  then  apply  spermaceti  oint- 
ment. 

5792.  To  Treat  a  Black  Eye.  This  is 
usually  caused  by  a  blow.  If  attended  with 
inflammation  and  pain,  wash  the  eye  often 
with  very  warm  water,  in  which  is  dissolved 
a  little  carbonate  of  soda,;  or  with  equal  parts 
of  tincture  of  opium  and  .water.  If  the  pain 
bo  acute,  foment  with  a  decotion  of  stramo- 
nium leaves,  simmered  in  spirits.  "Wash  the 
eye,  and  bind  on  the  leaves;  often  repeat. 
Perhaps  tho  best  application  is  a  poultice  of 
slippery  elm  bark.  Mix  with  milk  and  put  it 


To  Cure  a  Black  Eye.     To  re- 


on  warm. 

5793. 

move  tho  discoloration  of  the  eye,  bind  on  a 
poultice  made  of  the  root  of  Solomon's  seal. 
Culpepper  says  it  is  available  for  bruises, 
falls,  or  blows,  to  dispel  the  congealed  blood, 
and  to  take  away  tho  pains,  and  the  black  and 
blue  marks  that  remain  after  the  hurt.  ,  The 
root  may  be  washed,  the  dark-colored '  skin 
carefully  cut  off,  then  scraped  like  horse- 
radish, and  applied  direct  to  the  eye  in  the 
way  of  a  poultice,  cold.  A  tingling  sen- 
sation is  tho  consequence ;  when  this  sen- 
sation ceases,  another  fresh  application  should 
be  made,  and  repeated  until  the  whole  dis- 
coloration is  absorbed.  It  is  often  found  suffi- 
cient to  apply  the  scraped  root  at  bed-time  to 
tho  closed  eye,  when  the  blackness  has  dis- 
appeared by  the  morning.  Or:  Moisten  with 
tepid  water,  and  then  with  a  piece  of  lint  ap- 
ply pure  extract  of  lead ;  continue  to  keep 
the  lint  wet  with  the  extract  for  a  couple  of 
hours.  Leeches  ought  not  to  be  used.  A 
lotion  often  used  by  surgeons  with  advantage 
is  prepared  thus :  Take  nitrate  of  potassa  and 
sal-ammonia,  each  1  part;  water,  48  parts; 
vinegar,  4  parts.  The  part  bruised  to  be  kept 
wet  with  this  by  means  of  a  bandage. 

5794.  To  Remove  Dirt  or  Foreign 
Particles  from  the  Eye.  Take  a  hog's 
bristle,  double  so  as  to  form  a  loop.  Lift  the 
eyelid  and  gently  insert  the  loop  up  over  tho 
ball,  which  will  occasion  no  disagreeable  feel- 
ing. Xow  close  the  lid  down  upon  the  bris- 
tle, which  may  now  be  withdrawn.  The  dirt 
will  surely  be  upon  the  bristle.  M.  Renard, 
in  the  case  of  small  movable  bodies  which 
become  entangled  beneath  the  upper  eyelid, 
recommends  the  following  simple  process : 
Take  hold  of  the  upper  eyelid  near  its  angle.-1, 
with  the  forefinger  and  thumb  of  each  hand, 
draw  it  gently  forwards  and  as  low  down  as 
possible  over  the  lower  eyelid,  and  retain  it  in 
this  position  for  about  a  minute,  taking  caro 
to  prevent  the  tears  from  flowing  out.  When, 

0  ..  .    at  the  end  of  this  time,  you  allow  the  eyelid 

it  is  necessary  for  tho  child  to  look  directly  |  to  resume  its  place,  a  flood  of  tears  washes 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


out  the  foreign  body,  which  will  be  found  ad- 1     5801.    Anodyne  Eye- water.    Solution, 
hering  to,  or  near  to,  the  lower  eyelid.     If  of  acetate  of  ammonia,  2  ounces;   distilled 


lime  gets  into  the  eyes,  a  few  drops  of  vinegar 
and  water  will  dissolve  and  remove  it.  Al- 
mond or  (dive  oil  will  do  away  with  any  hot 
fluid  that  may  reach  the  eye. 

5795.  To  Expel  Insects,  Dirt,   &c., 
from  the  Eye.     The  first  thing  to  be  done 
when  a  mote  or  spark  gets  into  your  eye,  is  to 
pull  down  the  lower  part  of  the  eyelid,  and 
with  a  handkerchief  in  your  hand  blow  your 
nose  violently  at  the  same  moment.     This 
will  frequently  expel  the  mote  without  further 
trouble.    A  mote  will,  in  many  cases,  come 
out  of  itself,  by  immediately  holding  your 
eye  wide  open  in  a  cup  or  glass  filled"  to  the 
brim  with  clear  cold  water. 

5796.  To  Extract  Particles  of  Iron 
or  Steel  from  the  Eye.     A  particle  cf  iron 
or  steel  may  be  extracted  from  the   eye  by 
holding  near  it  a  powerful  magnet. 

5797.  Eye- Waters.    Eye-waters  should 
be  perfectly  clear,  and  free  from  any  floating 
matter,  however  trifling.     To  secure  this,  it  is 
in    general  necessary   either  to  filter    them 
through  bibulous  paper,. or  a  piece  of  clean, 
fine  muslin,  or  to  carefully  decant  them  after 
sufficient  repose  to  allow  the  impurities  to 
subside.     When  pure  distilled  water  is  used 
in  their  preparation,  only  some  of  them  will 
require  filtering.     In  using  eye- waters,  a  little 
of  the  liquid  should  be  poured  into  a  clean 
cup,  gallipot,  or  glass,  or  into  the  clean  palm 
of  the  left   hand,   when  the  eye   should  bo 


water,  hot,  C  ounces ;  soft  extract  of  opium, 
10  grains.  Dissolve  the  opium  in  the  hot  wa- 
ter, strain  through  fine  muslin,  and  add  tho 
solution  of  the  acetate  of  ammonia.  This 
application  frequently  affords  great  relief 
from  the  pain  and  irritation  accompanying 
inflammation. 

5802.  Eye-water  for  Specks  on  the 
Eye.     Oxymuriate  of  mercury,  5  grain;  best 
rose-water,   4   ounces.      This   solution  is    of 
much  use  in  removing  the  indolent  inflam- 
mation and  the  white  specks  which  an  acuto 
inflammation  of  the  eyes  frequently  leaves 
after  it. 

5803.  Bates'  Eye-water.     Dissolve  in  4 
fluid  ounces  boiling  water,  15  grains  dry  sul- 
phate of  copper  (sec  No.  5797),  and  4  grains 
camphor.    When  cold,  add  water  to  make  it 
4  pints,  and  filter.    Good  in  purulent  oph- 
thalmia. 

5804.  Goulard's  Eye-water.     Solution 
diacetate  of  lead,   10  drops;    rose  or  elder- 
flower  water,  G  fluid  ounces.     Mix.     Good  in 
inflammatory  stage  of  ophthalmia. 

5305.  Wash  for  Removing  Particles 
of  Iron  or  Zinc  from  the  Eye.  Muriatic 
acid,  20  drops  ;  mucilage,  1  drachm ;  mix  with 
2  fluid  ounces  rose-water. 

5806.  To  Allay  Temporary  Irritation 
or  Weakness  in  the  Eye.  Temporary  in- 
flammation, produced  by  cold  or  external 
causes,  13  rapidly  allayed  by  frequently  bath- 


thoroughly  wetted  with  it,  either  by  means  of  ing  the  eye  with  lukewarm  milk  and  water, 


small  piece  of  clean  sponge  or  soft  white 
rag,  or  the  clean  tips  of  the  fingers  of  the 
right  hand.  In  all  cases  it  is  advisable  to 
bathe  or  wash  the  e3res  in  tepid  water,  and  to 
wipe  them  dry,  before  tho  application  of  the 
eye-water;  and,  in  most  cases,  this  is  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  insure  benefit  from  their 
use.  In  the  preparation  of  eye-waters,  sub- 
stances of  crystalline  formation  are  better 
when  used  dry,  that  is,  deprived  of  their  wa- 
ter of  crystallization.  (Sec  No.  2035.)  . 

5798.  Astringent  Eye-water.  Take 
of  sulphate  of  zinc,  20  grains  ;  distilled  water, 
i  pint ;  dissolve.  An  excellent  astringent 
eye-water,  in  chronic  as  well  as  ordinary 
ophthalmia,  as  soon  as  the  inflammatory 
symptoms  subside;  also  in  weak,  lax,  wa- 
tery, irritable  eyes,  &c.  If  there  bo  much 
pain  and  irritability,  5  or  6  grains  of  acetate 
of  morphia,  or  2  fluid  drachms  of  wine  of 
opium,  may  be  added. 

5799.  Eye-water  for  Weak  Eyes. 
Take  &  ounce  rock  salt  and  1  ounce  of  dry 
sulphate  of  zinc  ;  simmer  in  a  perfectly  clean 
covered  porcelain  vessel  with  3  pints  of  water 
until  all  are  dissolved ;  strain  through  thick 
muslin,  add  1  ounce  of  rose-water ;  bottle  and 
cork  it  tight.  To  use  it,  mix  1  tea-spoonful 
of  rain-water,  with  1  of  eye-water,  and  bathe 
the  eyes,  if  weak,  frequently.  If  it  smarts 
too  much,  add  more  water;  if  not  enough, 
make  it  a  little  stronger  by  adding  more  eye- 
water. This  is  an  admirable  wash  for  weak 
eyes.  It  cannot  be  excelled. 

5800.  Wash  for  Inflamed  Eyes.  Take 
10  drops  extract  of  lead  (the  liquor  of  acetate 
of  lead);  distilled  vinegar,  2  drachm;;;  distill- 
ed water,  4  ounces.  This  is  an  excellent  wash 
for  inflamed  eyes. 


or  rose-water ;  applied  either  with  a  linen  rag 
or  by  means  of  an  eye-glass.  A  poultice  of 
tea-leaves  (the  wet  leaves  left  in  the  tea-pot) 
is  also  an  excellent  remedy.  Probably  tho 
best  remedy  of  all  is  to  put  a  table-spoonful 
of  salt  in  a  basin  of  water  (say  £  gallon), 
immerse  the  face  in  this  twice  a  day,  opening 
the  eyes  under  the  water,  and  using  fresh 
salt  and  water  every  day.  Tho  eyes  should 
under  no  circumstance  be  rubbed,  as  that  will 


increase  the  irritation. 
5807.     Atropine  Paper. 


Green   tissue 


paper  imbued  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of 
atropia,  so  that  a  piece  one-fifth  of  an  inch 
square  contains  as  much  as  a  drop  of  a  solu- 
tion 2  grains  to  1  ounce  of  water.  The  paper 
is  hung  up  and  turned  about  while  drying.  A 
piece  of  the  size  named  will  dilate  tho  pupil  if 
placed  on  the  sclerotic,  and  the  lids  closed  over 
it  and  tied  with  a  handkerchief. 

5808.  Belladonna  Mixture  for  Cata- 
ract.    Triturate  together  1  drachm  each  ex- 
tract of  belladonna  and  glycerine.     Used  for 
dilating  the  pupil  of  the  eye  in  cataract,  by 
anointing  the  eyebrow  and  temple. 

5809.  Taylor's  B-emedy  for  Deafness. 
Digest  2  ounces  bruised  garlic  in  1  pound  oil 
of  almonds  for  a  week,  and  strain.    A  drop 
poured  into  the  ear  is  effective  in  temporary 


deafness. 
5810. 


Treatment  of  Earache.      M. 


Emile  Duval  says  that  he  has,  in  person,  found 
relief  iu.  severe  earache,  after  other  means  had 
been  tried  in  vain,  from  the  use  of  a  mixture 
of  equal  parts  of  chloroform  and  laudanum; 
a  little  being  introduced  on  a  piece  of  cotton. 
The  first  effect  produced  is  a  sensation  of 
cold;  then  there  is  numbness,  followed  by 
scarcely  perceptible  pain  and  refreshing  sleep. 


60-1- 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


5811.  Cure  for  the  Earache.    Take  a 
small  piece  of  cotton  batting  or  cotton  wool, 
make  a  depression  in  the  centre  with  the  fin- 
ger, and  fill  it  up  with  as  much  ground  pepper 
as  will  rest  on  a  five-cent  piece ;  gather  it  into 
a  ball  and  tie  it  up ;  dip  the  ball  into  sweet 
oil  and  insert  it  in  the  ear,  covering  the  latter 
with  cotton  wool,  and  use  a  bandage  or  cap 
to  retain  it  in  its  place.    Almost  instant  relief 
will  be  experienced,  and  the  application  is  so 
gentle  that  an  infant  will  not  be  injured  by  it, 
but  experience  relief,  as  well  as  adults.    1 
part  laudanum  and  6  parts  sweet  oil  dropped 
in  the  ear  is  also  very  effectual. 

5812.  Simple  Cure  for  Earache.    Take 
a  common  tobacco-pipe,  place  a  wad  of  cotton 
in  the  bowl,  drop  upon  it  8  or  10  drops  of 
chloroform,  and  cover  with  another  wad  of 
cotton ;  place  the  stem  to  the  affected  ear, 
then  blow  into  the  bowl,  and  in  many  cases 
the  pain  will  cease  almost  immediately. 

5813.  Remedy  for  Inflammation  of 
the  Ear.     Swelling  and  redness,   attended 
with  throbbing,  indicates  it.    If  caused  by 
accumulation  of  wax,  syringe  the  ear  forcibly 
with  tepid  water.    If  by  cold,  a  poultice  of 
warm  hops,  soaking  the  feet.    If  the  pain  is 
great,  1  drop  laudanum  and  2  drops  sweet  oil 
of  almonds  dropped  into  the  ear  3  times  a  day, 
or  juice  of  onions  and  laudanum.    A  slice  of 
onion,  toasted  and  tied  on  hot  outside  the  ear, 
Is  a  good  remedy  for  earache  in  children,  and 
often  effective  with  adults.    If  very  severe,  a 
mustard  poultice  can  be  held  behind  the  ear. 
If  the  stomach  is  out  of  order  use  an  emetic. 
If  no  relief  comes,  call  a  physician. 

5814.  Remedy  for  Temporary  Deaf- 
ness.    If  deaf  from  hardened  wax  in  the  ear, 
a  mixture  of  sassafras  oil,  10  drops ;  glycerine, 
1  fluid  drachm;  olive  oil,  ^  fluid  ounce,  mixed, 
may  be  dropped  into  the  ear  every  day.    If 
deaf  from  other  causes,  go  to  the  physician. 

5815.  Cure  for  Temporary  Deafness. 
Inject  warm  water  into  the  ear  by  means  of  a 
proper  syringe,  the  head  being  placed  with 
that  side  upwards  during  the  operation. 

5816.  To  Destroy  Insects  in  the  Ear. 
Insects  may  be  destroyed  by  pouring  a  spoon- 
ful of  warm  olive  oil,  or  camphorated  oil,  into 
the  ear  over  night,  retaining  it  there  until  the 
next  morning  by  means  of  a  piece  of  cotton 
wool,  when  it  may  be  washed  out  with  a  little 
mild  soap  and  warm  water. 

5817.  To  Cure  Habitual  Drunken- 
ness.    The  following  singular  means  of  cur- 
ing habitual  drunkenness  is  employed  by  Dr. 
Schreiber,  a  Kussian  physician:  It  consists  in 
confining  the  drunkard  in  a  room,  and  in  fur- 
nishing him  at  discretion  with  his  favorite 
spirit  diluted  with  §-  of  water ;  as  much  wine 
beer,  and  coffee  as  he  desires,  but  containing 
•J  of  spirit;  all  the  food — the  bread,  meat,  anc 
the  vegetables  steeped  in  spirit  and  water. 
The  poor  patient  is  continually  drunk.     On 
the  fifth  day  of  this  treatment  he  has  an  ex- 
treme disgust  for  spirit ;  he  earnestly  request? 
other  diet ;  but  his  desire  must  not  bo  yielded 
to,  until  ho  no  longer  desires  to  cat  or  drink 
he  is  then  certainly  cured  of  his  love  of  drink 
He  acquires  such  a  disgust  for  brandy,  or  other 
epirits,  that  he  is  ready  to  vomit  at  the  very 
Bisrht  of  it. 

5818.  Tonic  After  Drinking  to  Excess 
Mix  together  5  grains  sulphate  cf  quinine ;  10 


drops  aromatic  sulphuric  acid ;  i  ounce  com- 
pound tincture  of  gentian;  2  drachms  com- 
>ound  tincture  of  cardamoms ;  IJr  ounces  gin- 
rer  syrup;  and  2  ounces  water.  A  table- 
spoonful  administered  3  times  a  day  will 
remove  the  prostrating  effects  of  drinking  to 
excess. 

5819.  Remedy  for  Chafing.    Stout  per- 

ons  suffer  greatly,  cspecialiy  in  warm  weath- 

\v,  from  chafing.     We  know  of  nothing' better 

;han  a  wash  of  alum  dissolved  in  water,  and 

applied  with  a  linen  or  cotton  rag. 

5820.  Lotion  for   Bed-Sores.      To  1 
;able-spoonful  of  powdered  alum  put  1  teacup- 
?ul  of  whiskey  and  bathe  the  sore  part  several 
;imes  a  day. 

5821.  To  Relieve  Irritation  in  Bed- 
Sores.     Apply  to  the  sores  the  white  of  an 
egg,  well  beaten,  and  mixed  with  spirits  of 
wine. 

5822.  To  Prevent  and  Cure  Chapped 
Hands.     Wash  the  hands  with  fine   soap; 
and  before  removing  the  soap,  scrub  the  hands 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  Indian  meal,  rinsing 
thoroughly  with  soft  tepid  water,  using  a  lit- 
tle meal  each  time  except  the  last ;  wipe  the 
hands  perfectly  dry;  then  rinse  them  in  a  very 
little  water  containing  a  tea-spoonful  of  pure 
glycerine,  rubbing  the  hands  together  until 
the  water  has  evaporated.    This  is  an  excel- 
lent remedy,  but  the  glycerine  must  be  pure, 
or  it  will  irritate  instead  of  healing. 

5823.  Treatment  of  the  Nails.    The 
nails  should  be  kept  clean  by  the  daily  use  of 
the  nail-brush  and  soap  and  water.    After 
wiping  the  hands,  but  while  they  are  still' soft 
from  the  action  of  the  water,  gently  push  back 
the  skin  which  is  apt  to  grow  over  the  nails, 
which  will  not  only  keep  them  neatly  round- 
ed, but  will  prevent  the  skin  cracking  around 
their  roots  (hang-nails),  and  becoming  sore. 
The  points  of  the  nails  should  be  pared  at 
least  once  a  week;  biting  them  should  be 
avoided. 

5824.  To  Remove  Warts.     A   daily 
application  of  either  of  the   three  following 
remedies  is    effective    in    dispersing    warts: 
Touch  the  wart  with  a  little  nitrate  of  silver 
(lunar  caustic);   or  with  nitric  acid  or  aro- 
matic vinegar.     The  lunar  caustic  produces  a 
black,  and  the  nitric  acid  a  yellow  stain,  which 
passes  off  in  a  short  time;  the  vinegar  scarce- 
ly discolors  the  skin.     Sparks  of  frictional 
electricity,  repeated  daily,  by  applying  the 
warts  to  the  conductor  of  an  electrical  ma- 
chine, have  been  also  successfully  employed 
as  a  cure  for  these  troublesome  and  unsightly 
excrescences. 

5825.  Wart  or  Corn  Powder.     Ivy- 
leaves  dried  and  ground  to  fine  powder.     A 
popular  and  useful  remedy  for  warts  and  soft 
corns.    The  part  having  been  moistened  with 
strong  vinegar,   a  pinch  of  the  powder   is 
sprinkled  on  it,  and  then  bound   on  with  a 
strip  of  rag.    This  is  sometimes  called  cos- 
metic vegetable  caustic.    A  mixture  of  equal 
parts  of  saviue  and  verdigris  also  make  an  effi- 
cacious wart  powder. 

5826.  To  Remove  Moles.    Croton  oil, 
under  the  form  of  pomade  or  ointment,  and 
potassio-tartrate  of  antimony  (tartar  emetic), 
under  the  form  of  paste  or  plaster,  have  each 
recently  been  successfully  employed  for  the 
removal  of  ordinary  moles  and  birth-marks. 


MEDICAL   RECEIPTS. 


5O5 


The  following  is  the  mode  of  using  the  latter 
adopted  by  au  eminent  French  surgeon :  Take 
tartar  emetic  iu  impalpable  powder,  15  grains; 
soap  plaster,  1  drachm ;  and  beat  them  to  a 
paste.  Apply  this  paste  to  nearly  a  line  in 
thickness  (not  more),  and  cover  the  whole 
with  strips  of  gummed  paper.  Iu  4  or  5  days 
eruption  or  suppuration  will  set  in,  and,  in  a 
few  days  after,  leave,  iu  place  of  the  birth- 
mark, only  a  very  slight  scar.  Croton  oil 
ointment  effects  the  same,  but  less  completely 
unless  repeated,  by  producing  a  pustular  erup- 
tion, which,  however,  does  not  permanently 
mark  the  skin.  (See  No.  57G2.) 

5827.  Ingrowing    Toe  Nails.      This 
most  painful  of  the  diseases  of  the  nails  is 
caused  by  the  improper  manner  of  cutting  the 
nail  (generally  of  the  great  toe),  and  then 
wearing  a  short,  badly-made  shoe.     The  nail 
beginning  to  grow  too  long,  and  rather  wide 
at  the  corners,  is  trimmed  around  the  corner, 
which  gives  temporary  relief.     But  it  then 
begins  to  grow  wider  in  the  side  where  it  was 
cut  off;   and,  as  the   shoe  presses  the  flesh 
against  the  corner,  the  nail  cuts  more  and 
more  into  the  raw  flesh,  which  becomes  ex- 
cessively tender  and  irritable.     If  this  state 
continue  long  the  toe  becomes  more  and  more 
painful  aud  ulcerated,  and  proud-flesh  sprouts 
up  from  the  sorest  points.     "Walking  greatly 
increases  the  suffering,  till  positive  rest  be- 
comes indispensable. 

5828.  Treatment  of  Ingrowing  Toe 
Nails.     Begin  the  effort  at  cure  by  simple 
application  to  the  tender  part  of  a  small  quan- 
tity of  perchloride   of  iron.     It  is  found  in 
drag  stores  in  a  fluid  form,  though  sometimes 
in  powder.     There  is  immediately  a  moderate 
sensation  of  pain,  constriction  or  burning.     In 
a  few  minutes  the  tender  surface  is  felt  to  be 
dried  up,  tanned  or  mummified,  and  it  ceases 
t.)  be  painful.     Tho  patient,  who  before  could 
not  put  his  foot  to  the  floor,  now  finds  that  he 
can  walk  upon  it  without  pain.     By  permit- 
ting the  hardened,  wood-like  flesh  to  remain 
for  2  or  3  weeks,  it  can  be  easily  removed  by 
soaking  the  foot  in  warm  water.    A  new  and 
healthy   structure  is  found   firm  and    solid, 
below.     If  thereafter  the  nails  be  no  more  cut 
around  the  corners  or  sides,  but  always  curved 
in  across  the  front  end,  they  will  in  future 
grow  only  forwards ;  and  by  wearing  a  shoe 
of  reasonably  good  size  and  shape,  all  further 
trouble  will  be  avoided. 

5829.  To  Prevent  the  Nail  Growing 
into  the  Toe.     If  the  nail  of  your  toe  be 
hard,  aud  apt  to  grow  round,  and  into  the 
corners  of  your  toe,  take  a  piece  of  broken 
glass  and  scrape  the  top  very  thin;  do  this 
whenever  you  cut  your  nails,  and,  by  constant 
use,  it  makes  the  corners  fly  up  and  grow 
flat,  so  that  it  i.s  impossible  they  should  give 
you  any  pain.     Do  not  fail  to  try  this. 

5830.  Remedy    for   Blistered  Feet 
from  Long   Walking.     Kub  the  feet,   at 
g.iing  to  bed,  witli  spirits,  mixed  with  tallow 
dropped  from  a  lighted  candle  into  the  pahn  of 
the  hand. 

5831.  Method  of  Preventing  Cold 
Feet  at  Bed-time.     Draw  off  your  stockings 
just  before  undressing,  and  rub  your  ankles 
and  feet  well  with  your  hand,  as  hard  as  you 
can  bear  the  pressure,  for  5  or  10  minutes, 
and  you  will  never  have  to  complain  of  cold 


feet  in  bed.  It  is  hardly  conceivable  what  a 
pleasurable  glow  this  diffuses.  Frequent 
washing  of  the  feet,  and  rubbing  them  thor- 
oughly dry  with  a  linen  cloth  or  flannel,  is 
very  useful. 

5832.  Chilblain.     This  i.i  an  inflamma- 
tory swelling,  of  a  purple  or  lead  color,  pro- 
duced by  the  action  of  cold.     Children,  espe- 
cially those  of  a  scrofulous  habit,  and  elderly 
persons,   are  generally  most  liable  to   chil- 
blains.   Tho  common  cause  is  holding  the 
hands   or  feet  to  the  fire,  after  exposure  to 
cold.      The   sudden  change   of  temperature 
partially  destroys  the  vitality,  and  prevents 
the  proper  flow  of  blood  through  the  part. 
As  chilblain  is  only  another  name  for  a  lan- 
guid circulation  iu  the  part  affected,  indicated 
by  a  congested  skin,  or  a  low  form  of  inflam- 
mation, the  value  of  most  of  the  following 
receipts  will  be  apparent  when  it  is  noticed 
that  they  are  all  calculated  to  act  as  stimulants 
of  the  blood-vessels,  and  thus  promote  the 
motion  of  the  partially  stagnant  blood  which 
gives  rise  to  the  heat  and  itching  that  are  so 
distressing.    (See  No.  5006.) 

5833.  Remedy  for  Broken  Chilblains. 
Mix  together  4  fluid  ounces  collodion,  1|  fluid 
ounces  Venice  turpentine,  and  1  fluid  ounce 
castor  oil. 

5834.  Zinc  "Wash  for  Chilblains.    Dis- 
solve 1  ounce  sulphate  of  zinc  in  1  pint  water. 
Apply  several  times  a  day. 

5835.  Chilblain  Lotion,.      Dissolve   1 
ounce  muriate  of  ammonia  in   i  pint  cider 
vinegar,  and  apply  frequently,     i  pint  alco- 
hol may  be  added  to  this  lotion  with  good 
effects. 

5836.  Petroleum  Liniment  for  Chil- 
blains.    Nothing  appears   of  such  uniform 
utility  for  allaying  the  inflammatory  irrita- 
tion, as  the  ordinary  petroleum  or  kerosene 
oil. 

5837.  To  Cure  Chilblains.    M.  W.  E. 
Schaller    says    that    the  fluid    concentrated 
chloride  of  iron  is  an  unfailing  remedy  for 
chilblains,  its  application  to  them  for  a  single 
day  effecting  a  cure.    It  may  also  be  used 
with  advantage  for  frost-bites. 

5838.  Remedy  for  Severe  Chilblains. 
From   10  to  GO  grains  nitrate  of  silver  dis- 
solved in  1  fluid  ounce  water  has  been  some- 
times found  useful  after  other  applications 
had   appeared  of   no    benefit.      Tincture   of 
cantharides,  to  stimulate  almost  to  blistering, 
has  also  been  used  in  the  more  intractable 
forms  of  the  disease.     The  tincture  of  capsi- 
cum has  been  presented  as  a  specific  in  this 
disease. 

5839.  Chilblain  Balm.     Boil  together 
10  fluid  ounces  olive  oil,  2  fluid  ounces  Venice 
turpentine,  and  1  ounce  yellow  wax;  strain, 
and  while  still  warm  add,  constantly  stirring, 
2k  drachms  balsam   of  Peru,   and  9   grains 
camphor. 

Another  formula  for  making  this  balm  adds 
i  ounce  alkauet  root,  but  employs  i  drachm 
less  of  the  balsam  of  Peru.  This  is  applied 
by  being  spread  on  a  soft  cloth  and  laid  on  the 
part  affected. 

5840.  Chilblain  Liniment.     Mix  to- 
gether 1  fluid  ounce  rectified  oil  of  turpentine, 
15  drops  sulphuric  acid,  and  2  ounces  olive 
oil.     This,  rubbed   gently   on  the  chilblains 
twice  a  day,  is  generally  very  effective. 


506 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


5841.  To  Cure  Chilblains.    The  follow- 
ing remedy  was  published  by  order  of  the 
Wirtemberg  government.     Mutton  tallow  and 
lard,  of  each  f  pound  avoirdupois ;  melt  in  an 
iron  vessel  and  add  hydrated  oxide  of  iron, 
2  ounces;  stirring  continually  with  an  iron 
spoon,  until  the  mass  is  of  u  uniform  black 
color ;  then  let  it  cool,  and  add  Venice  turpen- 
tine, 2  ounces  ;  and  Armenian  bole,  1  ounce ; 
oil  of  bergamot,  1  drachm ;  rub  up  the  bole 
•with  a  little  olive  oil  before  putting  it  in. 
Apply  several  times  daily  by  putting  it  upon 
lint  or  linen.    It  heals  the  worst  cases  in  a 
few  days. 

5842.  Russian    Remedy    for    Chil- 
blains.    Slices  of  the  rind  of  fully-ripe  cu- 
cumbers, dried  with  the  soft  parts  attached. 
Previous  to  use  they  are  softened  by  soaking 
them  in  warm  water,  and  are  then  bound  on 
the  sore  parts  with  the  inner  side  next  them, 
and  left  on  all  night.    This  treatment  is  said 
to  be  adopted  for  both  broken  and  unbroken 
chilblains. 

5843.  Remedy  for  Itching  Feet  from 
Frost-bites.  Take  hydrochloric  acid,  1 
ounce ;  rain,  water.  7  ounces ;  wash  the  feet 
with  it  2  or  3  times  daily,  or  wet  the  socks 
with  the  preparation  until  relieved. 

5844.  To  Cure  Slight  Frost-bites. 
The  remedy  for  this  is  long-continued  friction 
with  the  hands  or  cold  flannel,  avoiding  the 
fire  or  even  a  heated  apartment. 

5845.  To  Correct  an  Offensive  Smell 
in  the  Feet.     Bathe  them  in  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  permanganate  of  potassa ;  1  scruple  of 
the  salt  to  8  ounces  of  water.     (See  No.  1701.) 

5846.  Powder  for  Absorbing  Excess- 
ive Perspiration  of  the  Feet.     Mix  to- 
gether 7   ounces  carbonate   of   magnesia,   2 
ounces    powdered  calcined    alum,  7  ounces 
orris  root,  and  i  drachm  powdered  cloves. 

5847.  Corns.     Corns  are  entirely  owing 
to  continued  pressure,  such  as  wearing  small 
boots  or  shoes.    At  first  they  are  the  produc- 
tion of  the  outer  skin  only,  but  by  gradually 
thickening  they  at  length  come  to  be  connect- 
ed with  the  true  skin  beneath,  and  even  with 
the  subjacent  muscles.     (See  Nos.  5079  and 
50GO.) 

5848.  To  Prevent  Corns.     Prevention 
is  better  than  cure.     Wear  woolen  stockings, 
and  see  that  there  is  no  local  and  permanent 
pressure  on  auy  part  of  the  foot. 

5849.  To  Cure  Corns.    If  a  cure  be 
requisite,  soak  the  corn  for  i  hour  in  a  solu- 
tion of  soda,  and  pare  as  close  as  possible ; 
then  apply  a  plaster  of  the  following  ingredi- 
ents :  Take  of  purified  ammonia  and  yellow 
wax,  of  each  2  ounces  ;  and  acetate  of  copper, 
6  drachms.     Melt  the  first  two  ingredients 
together,  and,  after  removing  them  from  the 
fire,  add  the  acetate  of  copper  just  before  they 
grow  cold.     Spread  this  ointment  on  a  piece 
of  soft  leather  or  on  linen,  and  apply  it  to  the 
corn,  removing  it  in  two  weeks. 

5850.  To  Cure  Soft  Corns.    The  soft 
corn  occurs  between  tbe  toes,  and  is  produced 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  common  corn ;  but 
in  consequence  of  the  moisture  existing  in 
this  situation,   tho  thickened  scarf-skin  be- 
comes saturated,   and  remains  permanently 
soft.     The  soft  corn  is  best  relieved  by  cutting 
away  the  thick  skin  with  a  pair  of  scissors, 
avoiding  to  wound  the  flesh ;  then  touching  it 


with  a  drop  of  Friar's  balsam,  and 
habitually  a  piece  of  cotton  wool  between  tLo 
toes,  changing  the  cotton  daily.  Tincture  of 
arnica,  applied  on  a  piece  of  cotton  wool,  is 
also  said  to  be  an  excellent  remedy. 

5851.  To  Cure  Soft  Corns.     Dip   a 
piece  of  linen  rag  in  turpentine  and  wrap 
round  the  toe  on  which  the  corn  is  situated, 
night  and  morning.    The  relief  will  be  almost 
immediate,  and  in  a  few  days  the  corn  will 
disappear. 

5852.  To  Believe  Hard  Corns.    Bind 
them  up  at  night  with  arnica,  to  relieve  the 
pain.     During  the  day,  occasionally  moisten 
the  stocking  over  the  corn  with  arnica,  if  tho 
shoe  is  not  large  enough  to  allow  the  corn 
being  bound  up  with  a  piece  of  linen  rag. 

5853.  Remedy  for  Corns.    Soak  tho 
feet  well  in  warm  water,  then  with  a  sharp 
instrument  pare  off   as  much  of  the   corn 
as  can  be  done  without  pain,  and  bind  up  the 
part  affected,  with  a  piece  of  linen  or  muslin 
thoroughly  saturated  with  sperm  oil,  or,  what 
is  better,  the  oil  which  floats  upon  the  surface 
of  the  pickle  of  herring  or  mackerel.    After 
3  or  4  days  tho  dressing  may  be  removed,  and 
the  remaining  dead  cuticle  removed  by  scrap- 
ing, when  the  new  skin  will  be  fouud  of  a  soft 
and  healthy  texture  and  less  liable  to  the  for- 
mation of  a  new  corn  than  before. 

5854.  To  Relieve  Corns.  Take  a 
lemon,  cut  off  a  small  piece,  then  nick  it  so 
as  to  let  in  the  toe  with  the  corn,  tie  this  on 
at  night,  so  that  it  cannot  move,  and  in  tho 
morning  you  will  find  that,  with  a  blunt  knife, 
you  may  remove  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
corn.  Make  two  or  three  applications,  and 
great  relief  will  be  the  result. 

5855.  Remedy  for  Corns.  Tho  pain 
occasioned  by  corns  may  be  greatly  alleviated 
by  the  following  preparation  :  Into  a  1-ounce 
phial  put  2  drachms  of  muriatic  acid  and  6 
drachms  of  rose-water.  "With  this  mixture 
wet  the  corns  night  and  morning  for  3  dcnys. 
Soak  the  feet  every  evening  in  warm  water 
without  soap.  Put  one-third  of  the  acid  into 
the  water,  and,  with  a  little  picking,  the  com 
will  be  dissolved. 

5856.  Liquid  Solvent  for  Corns; 
Corn  Solvent.  A  saturated  solution  of  salt 
of  tartar  or  pearlash.  It  is  commonly  obtained 
by  exposing  the  article,  contained  in  a  jar  or 
wide-mouthed  bottle,  in  a  damp  place,  until  it 
forms  an  oil-like  liquid. 

5857.  To  Cure  Bunions.     A  bunion  is 
a  swelling  on  the  ball  of  the  great  toe,  and  is 
the  result  of  pressure  and  irritation  by  fric- 
tion.    The  treatment  for  corns  applies  also  to 
bunions ;  but,  in  consequence  ot  the  greater 
extension   of  the   disease,  the   cure   is  more 
tedious.     "When  a  bunion  is  forming  it  may  be 
stopped  by  poulticing  'and  carefully  opening  it 
with  a  lancet. 

5858.  To  Cure  a  Corn  on  the  Sole  of 
the  Foot.     A  corn  on  the  sole  of  the  foot  is 
usually  difficult  to  cure,  as  the  weight  of  tho 
body  causes  a  constant  pressure  on  it.     Tho 
application  of  an  ordinary  corn-plaster,  with  a 
hole  in  the  centre,  will  relieve  the  pressure 
from  the  corn,  but  it  causes  an  inequality 
under  the  foot,  which  is  not  only  uncomforta- 
ble, but  likely  to  produce  other  corns.     The 
following  method  never  fails :  Out  a  piece  of 
stout  cardboard  (or  thin  binders'  board)  to  fit 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


507 


inside  the  sole  of  the  boot.  This  should  be 
large  enough  in  every  way  to  prevent  it  shift- 
ing under  the  foot  in  walking.  Xcxt  cut  a 
round  hole  in  this  inner  sole,  exactly  where 
the  corn  rests,  the  hole  being  rather  larger 
than  the  corn.  This  arrangement  relieves  the 
corn  from  pressure  and  allows  of  its  rapid 
cure,  at  the  same  time  affording  instant  relief 
and  freedom  in  walking. 

5859.  To  Cure  a  Disagreeable  Breath. 
This  most  disagreeable  Infliction  may  be  alle- 
viated or  cured  by  one  or  other  of  tho  follow- 
ing remedies,  provided  that  tho  tselh  do  not 
require  a  dentist's  assistance.     Chlorine  wa- 
ter, as  supplied  by  a  good  chemist,  a  table- 
spoonfnl  to  half  a  tumbler  of  water,   to  be 
used  as  a  wash  and  gargle  for  the  mouth ;  no 
harm  will  be  done  if  a  few  drops  are  accident- 
ally swallowed  in  so  doing.     Charcoal  in  tea- 
spoonful  doses  of  tho  powder,  or  as  charcoal 
biscuits,  or  the  use  of  prepared  chalk  as  a 
tooth-powder.       A    frequent    causo    of   foul 
breath  is  a  torpidity  of  some  of  the   excre- 
tory organs,  such  as  the  skin,  kidneys,  bow- 
els, liver,  lungs.     "When  these  cease  perform- 
ing their  functions  one  of  the  others  will  be 
called  upon  to  perform  an  extra  office.    In 
this  way,  when  the  bowels  or  skin  become 
affected,  the  lungs,  being  an  excretory  organ, 
will  be  called  upon  to  throw  off  an  additional 
waste  from  the  system.      If  so,  tho  breath 
becomes  tainted.     Should  the  foul  breath  be 
depending  upon  tho  stomach,  it  must  be  cor- 
rected by  some  skillful  physician. 

5860.  Remedy  for  Bad  Breath.   Take 
of  dry  hypochlorite  of  lime,  o  drachms ;  dis- 
tilled  water,   2  ounces  troy.      Triturate  the 
hypochlorite  of  lime  in   a  glass  pestle  and 
mortar;  when  the  hypochlorito  has  been  thor- 
oughly pulverized  add  a  portion  of  the  distill- 
ed water  ;  allow  the  mixture  to  rest  until  the 
liquid  has  become  transparent ;  then  decant ; 
add  a  second  portion  of  water,  triturate  and 
allow  to  rest,  again  decant ;  this  process  is 
repeated    a    third    time.     Tho    three  liquids 
which  have  been  decanted  are  then  mixed, 
and  2  troy  ounces  of  85  per  cent,  alcohol,  and 
4  drops  oil  of  roses  or  some  other  essential  oil 
are  added.     Tho  solution  thus  prepared  may 
be  employed   to  remove  the  fetid  odor  which 
is  given  off  by  the  gums — an  odor  often  due 
to  the  diseased  condition  of  tho  tisanes.     To 
employ  it,  £  tea-spoonful  is  poured  into  a  tum- 
blerful of   water,  and  the   gums  are  washed 
with  the  mixture,  employing  for  tho  purpose 
a  sponge-brush.     The  same  preparation  may 
be  employed  to  remove  the  odor  of  tobacco, 
rinsing  the  mouth  several  times  with  water 
to  which  has  been  added  a  tea-spoonful  of  the 
liquid.     Inasmuch  as  the  odor  of  tho  essential 
oil  is  gradually  diminished  in  time,  said  dimi- 
nution  taking  place  at   the   expense  of  the 
chlorine  of  tho  hypochlorite,  it  is  suggested 
that  this  inconvenience  may  be  obviated  by 
preparing  the  solution  with  water  and  the 
hypochlorito   of  lime,  and  keeping  it  in  one 
bottle,  while  the  aromatic  alcoholic  solution 
(prepared  of  2  ounces  of  85  per  cent,  alcohol 
and  4  drops  of  essential  oil)  is  preserved  in 
another,  both  being  well  stoppered.     "When  it 
is  desired  to  use  the  liquids,  a  half  tea-spoon- 
ful of  each  of  the  solutions  is  poured  into  a 
glass   of  water,  which  is  then  employed  as 
described  above. 


5861.  Remedy  for  Bad  Breath.    Take 
5  to  10  drops  hydrochloric  acid  in  half  a  tum- 
bler of  spring  water,  a  little  lemon  juice,  and 
loaf  sugar  rubbed  on  lemon  peel  to  flavor  it  to 
suit  the  palate.     Let  this  mixture  be  taken  3 
times  a  day  for  a  month  or  six  weeks,  and,  if 
useful,  then  continued  occasionally.    It  is  » 
pleasant  refrigerant  and  tonic  draught. 

5862.  Remedy  for  Bad  Breath.    Bad 
or  foul  breath  will  be  removed  by  taking  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  the  following  mixture  after  each 
meal :     1  ounce  liquor  of  potassa,   1   ounce 
chloride    of  soda,     li   ounces   phosphate   of 
soda,  and  3  ounces  water. 

5863.  Bad  Breath  from  Constipation. 
"When,  the  breath  is  affected  by  constipation  of 
the  bowels,   the  following  mixture  will  -be 
useful:     Take    4    drachms    Epsom    salts,   8 
drachms  tincture  of  columba,   6  ounces  in- 
fusion of  roses;  well  shake   the   phial  each 
time  you  take  the  draught,  which  should  be 
every    other  morning    for  a   month  or  six 
weeks,  a  wine-glassful  each  time. 

5864.  To     Remove   the    Smell    of 
Onions  from  the  Breath.      Parsley  eaten 
with   vinegar    will    remove    the  unpleasant 
effects  of  eating  onions. 

5865.  To  Correct  the  Odor  of  Decay- 
ed Teeth.     To  correct  the  odor  of  decayed 
teeth,  2  drops  of  a  concentrated  solution  of 
permanganate  of  potash  may  be  used  in  a 
glass  of  water  as  a  wash,  or  a  few  drops  of  a 
weak    solution    may    be    introduced  m  the 
cavity  of  the  tooth  on  a  small  piece  of  cot- 
ton.    (See  No.  1701.) 

5866.  To   Preserve  the  Teeth  and 
Gums.     The  teeth  should  be  washed  night 
and  morning,   a  moderately  small  and  soft 
brush  being  used  ;  after  the  morning  ablution 
pour    on    a    second     tooth-brush,     slightly 
damped,  a  little  of  the  following  lotion  :  car- 
bolic acid,  20  drops;  spirit  of  wine,  2  drachms; 
distilled   water,  6  ounces.     After  using  this 
lotion  for  a  short  time  the  gums    become 
firmer  and  less  tender,  and  impurity  of  the 
breath  (which  is  most  commonly  caused  by 
bad   teeth)   will  be  removed.     It  is  a  great 
mistake  to  use  hard  tooth-brushes,  or  to  brush 
the  teeth  until  the  gums  bleed.     (See  Nos. 
1288,  <fc. 

5867.  Magnetic     Pain-Killer      for 
Acute  Pain  and  Toothache.      Thin  is  one 
of   the     very    best     receipts    for    relieving 
acute    pain    and  toothache.       Laudanum,   1 
drachm ;    gum   camphor,    4  drachms ;   oil  of 
cloves,  h  drachm  ;  oil  of  lavender,  1  drachm  ; 
add  these  to  1  ounce  alcohol,  6  drachms  sul- 
phuric ether,  and  5  fluid  drachms  chloroform. 
Apply  with  lint;  or,  for  toothache,  rub  on  tho 
gums,  and  upon  the  face  against  the  tooth. 

5868.  Blake's  Cure  for  the  Tooth- 
ache.    Take  alum,  reduced  to  an  impalpable 
powder,  2  drachms ;  spirits  of  nitric  ether,  7 
drachms.     Mix,  and  apply  them  to  the  tooth. 
This  is  said  to  be  an  infallible  cuwj  for  all 
kinds  of  toothache  unless  the  disease  is  con- 
nected with  rheumatism. 

5869.  Chloral   for    Toothache.      Dr. 
Pago  recommends  chloral  hydrate  as  a  local 
application  in  cases   of  toothache.      A   few 
grains  of  the  solid  hydrate   introduced  into 
the  cavity  of  the  tooth  upon  the  point  of  a 
quill    speedily  dissolves   there;   and    in   the 
course  of  a  few  minutes,  during  which  a  not 


508 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


unpleasant  warm  sensation  is  experienced, 
the  pain  is  either  deadened,  or,  more  often, 
effectually  allayed.  A  second  or  third  ap- 
plication may  be  resorted  to  if  necessary. 
(BriU  Med.  Journ.) 

5870.  To  Cure  Toothache.  To  1  drachm 
flexible  collodion  add  2  drachms  carbolic  acid. 
A  gelatinous  mass  is  precipitated,  a  small 
portion  of  which  inserted  into  the  cavity  of 
an  aching  tooth  invariably  gives  immediate 
relief. 

5871.  Chlorate  of  Potassa  as  a  Cure 
for  Toothache.     According  to  the  experi- 
ence of  eminent  dentists,  chlorate  of  potassa 
affords  quick  relief  in  toothache.      If  the  hol- 
low tooth  is  in  the  lower  jaw,  a  small  crystal 
of  this  salt  may  be  put  m  the  cavity ;  but 
perhaps  it  is  more  advisable  to  use  a  solution 
of  1  part  of  the  potassa  in  20  of  water. 

5872.  Paste  for  Toothache.    Take  of 
root-bark  of  pellitory,  1  drachm ;  muriate  of 
morphia,  5  grains ;  triturate  until  reduced  to 
fine    powder,    then    add,    finest    honey,    3 
drachms ;   oil    of  cloves  (or  of  cajeput),  20 
drops;    concentrated    tincture    of   pellitory, 
a  sufficient  quantity  to  form  the  whole  into'  a 
smooth  paste.     Very  effective. 

5873.  Cure    for   Toothache.      Take 
equal  parts  of  burnt  alum  and  salt.     Saturate 
a  piece  of  cotton,  cover  with  the  mixture,  and 
put  in  the  tooth.      Or  saturate  a  small  bit  of 
clean  cotton  wool  with  a  strong  solution  of 
ammonia,   and  apply  it  immediately  to  the 
affected  tooth.      Immediate  relief  will  be  ex- 
perienced. 

5874.  Perry's  Essence  for  the  Tooth- 
ache.    A  concentrated  tincture  of  pellitory 
made  with  about   equal  parts  of  ether  and 
rectified  spirit  largely  charged  with  camphor. 
Though  a  nostrum,  it  is  an  excellent  prepara- 
tion.    (See  No.  4532.) 

5875.  Pieste's   Toothache   Essence. 
This  is  laudanum  mixed  •with  about  twice  its 
volume  of  liquor  of  ammonia  specific  gravity 
.930.      Applied  on  lint,  like  other  toothache 


drops,  it  often  rapidly  relieves  the  pain. 
5876.      Cottereau's     Odontalgic 


Es- 


sence. A  nearly  saturated  ethereal  solu- 
tion of  camphor,  mixed  with  -^  to  -j1/  its  vol- 
ume of  liquor  of  ammonia  (specific  gravity 
.880  to  882).  A  very  useful  preparation. 

5877.  To  Kill  the  Nerve  of  a  Hollow 
Tooth.     Take  i  drachm  white  oxide  of  ar- 
senic;  1  drachm  sulphate  of  morphia;  mix 
with  a  little  creosote,  and  apply  to  the  cavity 
of  the  tooth,  previously  cleansed. 

5878.  Tooth  Cements.     These  are  pre- 
parations for  filling  up  cavities,  cracks,  &c 
in  defective  teeth,  the  object  being  either  to 
restore  or  preserve  them,  or  to  cure  or  pre- 
vent toothache.     (See  Nos.  3549,  &c.) 

5879.  Diamond     Tooth     Cement. 
Take  of  anhydrous  phosphoric  acid  in  fine 
powder,  12  grains;  pure  caustic  lime,  fresh 
burnt,   and  in  fine  powder,  13  grains ;  mix 
them  rapidly,  by  trituration,  in  a  porcelain  or 
wedgwood- ware  mortar,  and  apply  the  pow- 
der, in  the  dry  state,  as  quickly  as  possible, 
as  it  soon  becomes  moist.     The  powder,  after 
being  well  pressed  in  the  crack  or  cavity  of 


The  compound  that  results  from  the  combi- 
nation of  the  ingredients  almost  exactly  re- 
sembles the  natural  earthy  matter  of  the 
teeth,  and  is,  therefore,  unobjectionable.  Its 
color  closely  resembles,  and  will  soon  become 
that  of  the  teeth  to  which  it  is  applied,  pro- 
vided they  possess  ordinary  whiteness.  To 
cause  it  at  once  to  imitate  the  color  of  the 
teeth,  the  mixture  may  be  rendered  slightly 
grey  by  adding  to  it  a  mere  trace  of  carbon. 
This  may  be  done  by  holding  the  pestle,  used 
to  mix  the  powders,  over  the  flame  of  a  can- 
dle or  lamp,  for  an  instant.  A  faint  yellow- 
ish shade  may  be  given  to  it  by  a  trace  of 
sulphuret  of  cadmium  or  a  little  yellow  ochre ; 
and  a  faint  shade  of  red  or  flesh-color  by  a 
trace  of  jeweler's  rouge  or  peroxide  of  iron,  or 
a  very  little  light-red  (burnt  yellow-ochre). 
This  stopping,  from  its  composition  and  other 
qualities,  is,  perhaps,  superior  to  all  others; 
but,  except  in  the  case  of  hollow  teeth,  its 
use  requires  some  degree  of  skill  and  expert- 
ness,  which  is,  however,  readily  acquired. 


5880. 
Teeth. 


Gutta-Percha    Stopping    for 

This    is    pure,    uncolored,     native 


gutta-percha.  A  small  piece  is  softened  in 
hot  water,  and  at  once  applied.  It  answers 
well  for  filling  hollow  teeth  with  central 
cavities,  and  is  efficient  and  durable. 

5881.  White     Gutta-Percha.       The 
Journal  of  Applied  Chemistry  gives  the  fol- 
lowing method  of  preparing  this,  for  dentists' 
use  and  for  other  purposes.     4  ounces  of  pure 
gutta-percha  are   digested  with  5  pounds  of 
methyl-chloroform  until  the  solution,  is  thin 
enough  to  pass  through  filtering  paper.     It  is 
then  filtered  (an  additional  pound  of  chloro- 
form will  facilitate  this),  and  should  then  be 
clear  and  nearly  colorless.     Alcohol   is  now 
added  in  sufficient  quantity  to  precipitate  the 
gutta-percha  in  a  voluminous  white  mass, 
which  is  washed  with  alc»hol,  pressed  in  a 
cloth,  and  dried  in  the  air.     It  must  finally  be 
boiled  in  water  in  a  porcelain  vessel  for  half 
an  hour,  and,  while  still  hot,  rolled  into  sticks. 
The  chloroform  can  be  separated  from  the 
alcohol    by    adding  water,   and  the   alcohol 
recovered  bv  distillation.     (See  No.  1725.) 

5882.  How  to  Fill  or  Plug   Teeth. 
One  of  the  most  important  points  to  attend 
to  in  filling  or  stopping  teeth,  is  that  each 
tooth  must  be  thoroughly   cleaned  out,  and 
wiped  perfectly  dry,  before  inserting  or  ap- 
plying the  cement,  of  whatever  kind  it  be. 
Without  careful  attention  to  this  matter,  the 
cement  will  not  adhere,  or  will  soon  become 
loose,  and  drop  out  or  off,  and  the  operation 
prove  a  failure.     "When  a  defective  tooth  is 
conveniently  situated  it  may  often  be  stopped 
by  the  party  himself,  by  the  exercise  of  a 
little  skill  and  care,  particularly  if  it  be  a  hol- 
low one  with  a  clearly  defined  central  cavity. 
When  the  reverse  is  the  case,  it  is  generally 
necessary  that  the  operator  should  be  a  sec- 
ond party.    A  hollow  tooth  with  a  central 
and  nearly  circular  hole  in  it  may,  in  general, 
be  effectively  filled  with  a  plug  of  dry  soft 
wood,  or  of  bone  or  ivory.      If  the  hole  be 
not  round,  it  may  be  made  BO.     Such  stop- 
ping will  often  last  for  years. 


the  tooth,  is  smoothed  off  with  the  finger  5883.  To  Remove  Tattoo  Marks  from 
moistened  with  a  drop  of  water.  It  soon  ac-  the  Skin.  Inquiry  is  frequently  made  for 
quires  great  hardness,  is  white,  very  durable,  method?  for  the  successful  removal  of  tattoo 
aiid  does  not  become  discolored  by  age.  i  marks  in  the  skin.  "While  these  are  generally 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


509 


asserted  to  be  indelible,  if  produced  by  the 
insertion  of  some  carbonaceous  matter,  a  cor- 
respondent of  the  Chemical  News  says  that 
the  marks  disappeared  by  being  first  well 
rubbed  with  a  salve  of  pure  acetic  acid  and 
lard,  then  with  a  solution  of  potash,  and 
finally  with  hydrochloric  acid. 

5884.  To'  Remove  Freckles.    If  the 
exact  cause  of  freckles  were  known,  a  remedy 
for  them  might  be  found.     A  chemist  in  Mo- 
ravia, observing  the  bleaching  effect  of  mer- 
curial preparations,  inferred  that  the  growth 
of  a  local  parasitical  fungus  was  the  cause  of 
the  discoloration  of  the  skin,  which  extended 
and  ripened  its  spores  in  the  warmer  season. 
Knowing  that  sulpho-carbolate  of  zinc  is  a 
deadly  enemy  to  all  parasitic  vegetation  (it- 
self not  beiug  otherwise  injurious),  he  applied 
this   salt   for"  the  purpose   of  removing  the 
freckles.     The  compound  consists  of  2  parts 
of  sulpho-carbolate  of  zinc,  25  parts  of  dis- 
tilled glycerine,  25  parts  of  rose-water,  and  5 
parts  of  scented  alcohol,  and  is  to  be  applied 
twice  daily  for  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour, 
then  washed  off  with  cold  water.     Protection 
against  the  sun  by  veiling  and  other  means  is 
recommended,  and  in  addition,  for  persons  of 
pale  complexion,   some  mild  preparation  of 
iron. 

5885.  To  Remove  Liver-spots.    These 
are  well-defined,    brownish  blotches  on  the 
skin,  and  generally  appear  on  the  forehead. 
Notwithstanding    their  name,   they    do  not 
always  proceed  from  the  liver  alone,  but  usu- 
ally .from   soino  derangement  or  unhealthy 
state  of   the  internal  organs.    In  the  first 
place,  the  general  health  must  bo  thoroughly 
cared  for,  in  order  to  have  a  fair  prospect  of 
success  in  any  external  local  application.     A 
pomade  composed  of  20  grains  of  sulphate  of 
zinc  and  1  ounce  elder-flower  ointment  should 
be  applied  over-night   to  the  spot,  entirely 
within  its  limits,  and  not  on  the  surrounding 
skin.     In  the  morning  wash  it  off  with  white 
castile  soap  and  water,  and  bathe  it  repeated- 
ly during  the  day  with  a  lotion  composed  of 
30   grains  citric  acid  and  -J-  pint  infusion  of 
roses.     The  spots  should  yield  to  this  treat- 
ment in  about  2  weeks,  and  their  recurrence 
may  be  prevented  by  a  regular  use  of  borax 
and  glvcerine  lotion.     (Sec  No.  4839.) 

5886.  To  Remove  Birth-marks.     Mix 
together,  with  frequent  agitation,  1  part  pure 
carbonate  of  potash,   4  parts  rose-water,  2 
parts  Hoffmann's  Life  Balsam  (sec  No.  5112), 
and  2  parts   distilled  water.    Apply  to  the 
mark  twice  a  day,   shaking  the   bottle  well 
before  using.     (Hagcr.)     (See  No.  582G.) 

5887.  To  Disguise  the  Taste  of  Med- 
icines.    Instead  of  attempting  to  flavor  the 
medicine,  or  to  remove  the  disagreeable  taste 
from  the  mouth  after  taking  the  medicine,  it 
is  far  more  efficacious  to  prepare  the  mouth 
beforehand  with  some  strong  aromatic  flavor, 
such  as  orange  or  lemon  peel,  or  cachou  aro- 
matise.     (See  No.  1336.)    In  preparing  the 
mouth  for  bitters,  liquorice  is  the  only  sweet 
that  should  be  used,  all  others  creating  a  pe- 
culiarly disagreeable  compound  taste. 

5888.  To  Disguise  the  Taste  of  Cas- 
tor Oil.     Castor  or  cod-liver  oil  may  be  taken 
with  porter  by  pouring  a  little  in  the  bottom 
of  the  glass,  and  then  a  little  on  top  of  the 
oil,  but  the  best  method  of  covering  the  nau- 


seous flavor  is  to  put  a  table-spoonful  of 
strained  orange-juice  in  a  wine-glass,  pour 
the  castor  oil  into  the  centre  of  the  juice,  and 
then  squeeze  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  upob 
the  top  of  the  oil,  and  rub  some  of  the  juice 
on  the  edge  of  the  glass. 

5889.  French  Method  of  Administer- 
ing' Castor  Oil  to  Children.  Pour  the  oil 
into  a  pan  over  a  moderate  fire ;  break  an  egg 
into  it,  and  stir  up ;  when  it  is  done,  add  a 
little  salt  or  sugar,  or  some  currant  jelly. 
The  sick  child  will  eat  it  agreeably,  and  never 
discover  the  disguise. 

5890.  To  Destroy  the  Taste  of  Cas- 
tor Oil.  A  good  way  is  to  beat  the  castor 
oil  with  the  white  of  an  egg  until  both  are 
thoroughly  mixed.  , 

5891.  To  Disguise  the  Taste  of  Epsom 
Salts.  Peppermint  water  almost  prevents 
the  nauseous  taste  of  Epsom  salts ;  a  strong 
solution  of  extract  of  liquorice  covers  the 
disagreeable  taste  of  aloes;  milk,  that  of 
Peruvian  bark  ;  and  cloves,  that  of  senna. 

5892.  Agreeable  Mode  of  Taking 
Senna.  Dr.  Liuthner  says  that  senna  leaves 
(1  or  2  drachms  to  1  or  2  cups  of  water) 
should  be  allowed  to  infuse  all  night  in  cold 
water.  "With  the  strained  infusion  coffee  is 
prepared  next  morning,  as  if  with  water  ;  and 
an  aperient  which  does  not  taste  of  senna, 
and  does  not  cause  griping,  is  thus  produced. 

5893.  Restoration  of  Persons  Appa- 
rently Dead  from  Drowning.  The  follow- 
ing rules  for  the  restoration  ot  persons  appa- 
rently dead  from  drowning,  are  given  by  Pro- 
fessor Benjamin  Howard,  of  this  city,  and 
sanctioned  by  the  Metropolitan  Board  cf 
Health  of  the  City  of  New  York. 

I.  Unless  in  danger  of  freezing,  never  move 
the  patient  from  the  spot  where  first  rescued, 
nor  allow  bystanders  to  screen  off  the  fresh 
air,  but  instantly  wipe  clean  the  mouth  and 
nostrils,  rip  and  remove  all  clothing  to  a  little 
below  the  waist,   rapidly  rub  and  dry  the 
exposed  part,  and  give  two  quick,  smarting 
slaps  on  the  stomach  with  your  open  hand. 
If  this  docs  not  succeed  immediately,  proceed 
according  to  the  following  rules  to  perform 
artificial  breathing : 

II.  Turn  the  patient  on  his  face,  a  largo 
bundle  of  tightly  rolled  clothing  being  placed 
beneath  his  stomach,  and  press  heavily  over  it 
upon  the  spine  for  half  a  minute. 

III.  Turn  the  patient  quickly  again  on  his 
back ;  the  roll  of  clothing  being  so  placed 
beneath  it  as  to  make  the  short  ribs  bulge 
prominently  forward,  and  raise  them  a  little 
higher  than  the  level  of  the  mouth.     Let 
some  bystander  hold  the  tip  of  the  tongue  out 
cf  one  corner  of  the  mouth  with  a  dry  hand- 
kerchief, and  hold  both  hands  of  the  patient 
together,  the  arms  being  stretched  forcibly 
back  above  the  head. 

IT.  Kneel  astride  the  patient's  hips,  and 
with  your  hands  resting  on  his  stomach, 
spread  out  your  fingers  so  that  you  can  grasp 
the  waist  about  the  short  ribs.  Now  throw 
all  your  weight  steadily  forward  upon  your 
hands,  while  you  at  the  same  time  squeeze 
the  ribs  deeply,  as  if  you  wished  to  force 
everything  in  the  chest  upwards  out  of  the 
mouth.  Continue  this  while  you  can  slowly 
count — one — two — three ;  then  suddenly  let 
go,  with  a  final  push,  which  springs  you  back 


510 


MEDICAL    RECEIPTS. 


to  your  first  kneeling  position.  Remain  erect 
upon  your  knees  while  you  can  count — one — 
two ;  then  throw  your  weight  forward  again 
is  before,  repeating  the  entire  motions — at 
first  about  4  or  5  times  a  minute,  increasing 
the  rate  gradually  to  about  15  times  a  minute, 
and  continuing  with  the  same  regularity  of 
time  and  motion  as  is  observed  in  the  natural 
breathing  which  you  are  imitating. 

V.  Continue  this  treatment,  though  appa- 
rently unsuccessful,  for  2  hours,  until  the  pa- 
tient begins  to  breathe ;  and  for  a  while  after 
this,  help   biin    by   well-timed    pressure  to 
deepen  his  fi  rst  gasps  into  full,  deep  breaths ; 
while  the  friction  of  the  limbs,  which  should, 
if  possible,  have  been  kept  up  during  the 
entire  process,  is  now  further  increased. 

VI.  As  soon  as  the  breathing  has  become 
perfectly  natural,  strip  the  patient  rapidly  and 
completely.      Wrap  him    m    blankets  only. 
Put  him  in  bed  in  a  room  comfortably  warm, 
but  with  a  free  circulation  of  fresh  air,  and, 
except  for  the  administration  of  internal  treat- 
ment, let  him  have  perfect  rest.     Give  him  a 
little  hot  bnandy  and  water,  or  other  stimu- 
lant at  hand,  every  10  or  15  minutes  for  the 
first  hour,  and  as  often  thereafter  as  may 
seem  expedient. 

5394.  Abstinence  as  a  Cure  for  Dis- 
ease. Disease  may  often  be  cured  by  absti- 
nence from  all  food,  especially  if  the  disorders 
have  been  produced  by  luxurious  living  and 
repletion.  The  latter  overtaxes  nature,  and 
it  rebels  against  such  treatment.  Indigestion, 
giddiness,  headache,  mental  depression,  &c., 
are  often  the  effects  of  greediness  in  meat  and 
drink.  Omitting  one,  two,  or  three  meals, 
allows  the  system  to  rest,  to  regain  strength, 
and  allows  the  clogged  organs  to  dispose  of 
their  burdens.  The  practice  of  drug-taking 
to  cleanse  the  stomach,  though  it  may  give 
the  needed  relief,  always  weakens  the  system, 
while  abstinence  often  secures  the  same  result, 
and  yet  does  no  injury. 

5895.  Antidotes  for  Poison.    It  need 
hardly  be  said  that  medical  assistance  must 
be  sent  for  at  once ;  but,  meanwhile,  as  it  is 
of  the  greatest  importance  to  administer  some 
aid  as  soon  as  possible,  the  subjoined  direc- 
tions may  be  followed.    "When  any  poisonous 
or  other  hurtful  thing  has  been  swallowed, 
take  instantly  half  a  glass  of  water — cold,  not 
hot — put  into  it  a  heaping  tea-spoonful  of  salt, 
and  another  of  ground  mustard;  stir  it  rapidly 
3  or  4  times ;  if  there  is  no  salt  at  hand,  use 
mustard  alone ;  catch  the  patient  by  the  nose 
and  toss  it  down.    The  reason  for  using  cold 
water  is  that,  in  the  hurry,  the  water  may  be 
hotter  than  thought  for,  and  may  scald  the 
throat,  causing  eventual,  if  not  instant  death. 
The    salt  and  mustard  make  the  speediest 
emetic  known,  and  are  almost  everywhere  to 
be  had  in  a  moment.    It  brings  up  the  con- 
tents of  the  stomach  more  or  less  complete- 
ly.   And  for  fear  that  some  remnant  may  be 
loft,  administer  a  cupful  of  strong  coffee,  and 
then  the  white  of  2  or  3  raw  eggs,  either  first, 
aa  may  be  the  quickest  had,  because  these  are 
two  domestic    articles  which  are    found  in 
every  house,   and  nullify  the    effects    of  a 
greater  number  of  virulent  poisons  than  per- 
haps any  other  articles  known.     (HaH.) 

5896.  Treatment  in  Cases  of  Poison- 
ing.    Dr.  Hall  Bays :  "Whatever  is  done  must 


be  done  quickly.  The  instant  a  person  is 
known  to  have  swallowed  poison  by  design  or 
accident,  give  water  to  drink,  cold  or  warm, 
as  fast  as  possible,  a  gallon  or  more  at  a  time, 
and,  as  fast  as  vomited,  drink  more ;  tepid  wa- 
ter is  best,  as  it  opens  the  pores  of  the  skin 
and  promotes  vomiting,  and  thus  gives  the 
speediest  cure  to  the  poisonous  article.  If 
pains  begin  to  be  felt  in  the  bowels,  it  shows 
that  part  at  least  of  the  poison  has  passed 
downwards;  then  large  and  repeated  injec- 
tions of  tepid  water  should  bo  given,  the 
object  in  both  cases  being  to  dilute  the  poison 
as  quickly  and  as  largely  as  possible.  Do  not 
wait  for  warm  water — take  that  which  is 
nearest  at  hand,  cold  or  warm,  for  every 
second  <;f  time  saved  is  of  immense  import- 
ance; at  the  same  time  send  instantly  fora 
physician,  and  as  soon  as  he  conies  turn  the 
case  into  his  hands,  telling  him  what  you  have 
done.  This  simple  fact  cannot  be  too  widely 
published ;  it  is  not  meant  to  say  that  drink- 
ing a  gallon  or  two  of  simple  water  will  cure 
every  case  of  poisoning;  but  it  will  cure  many, 
and  benefits  all  by  its  rapidly  diluting  quality. 
(Journal  of  Health.}  A  short  summary  of 
the  antidotes  resorted  to  in  reference  to  partic- 
ular poisons  is  given  below.  They  should,  of 
course,  be  administered  as  speedily  as  possible. 

5897.  Antidotes  for  Acid  Poisons. 
Hydrochloric   acid;   nitric   acid;    oxalic  acid 
(often  mistaken  for  Epsom  salts) ;  acetic  acid. 
For  this  form  of  poison,  give  quickly  large 
draughts  of  chalk,  whiting,  magnesia,  or  soap 
and  water,  about  as  thick  as  cream  ;  followed 
by  albuminous   diluents,  such   as  milk,  and 
white  of  egg  mixed  with  water.     Or,  if  these 
cannot  be  procured  at  once,  warm   water; 
and  promote  voir.itiug  by  the  emetic  recom- 
mended in  Is"o.  C325. 

5898.  Antidotes  for  Arsenic.      The 
first  endeavor,  incases  of  poisoning  by  arsenic, 
should  bo  to  remove,  if  possible,  the  poison 
from  the   stomach;   for  this  purpose  strong 
emetics  or  the  stomach-pump  should  be  had 
recourse  to,  after  which  the  hydrated  peroxide 
of  iron  in  a  dose  thirty  times  greater  than  that 
of  the  poison  may  be  administered.     (See  No. 
4155.) 

5899.  Antidotes  for  Baryta  in  all  its 
Forms.       Sulphate    of    magnesia    (Epsom 
salts),  sulphate  of  soda  (Glauber's  salts),  or 
any  alkaline  cr  earthy  sulphate. 

5900.  Antidotes  for  Antimony,  or 
Tartar  Emetic.  Administer  large  doses  of 
warm  water  to  induce  vomiting  (see  No.  C896) ; 
give  the  powder  of  Peruvian  bark,  and,  as 
soon  as  it  can  be  prepared,  the  infusion  of 
bark,  which  decomposes  the  tartar  emetic. 

5901.  Antidotes  for  Alkalies,  Soda, 
Potash,    Ammonia,     &c.       Vinegar    and 
lemon-juice  are  the  best  antidotes  for  potash, 
and  all  other  alkaline  poisons.     A  glassful  of 
water,  mixed  with  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar 
or  lemon-juice,  should   be  given   frequently; 
and  in  defect  of  these,  simple  water,  in  such 
quantities  as  to  cause   vomiting.     Emetics, 
and  other  irritating  means,  are  to  be  avoided. 
Olive  oil  may  also  be  administered. 

5902.  Antidotes  for  Corrosive  Sub- 
limate,  or  Calomel.     The  white   of  eggs 
beaten  up  with  cold  water  is  the  best  antidote 
for  these.     If  eggs  are  not  at  once  to  be  bad, 
milk  may  be  used  with  great  success.     Warm 


MEDICAL   EECEITTS. 


511 


water  should  be  given  afterwards,  to  induce 
vomiting,  also  free  purging  in  most  instances. 

5903.  Antidote  for  Corrosive  Subli- 
mate.     In   case   of  poisoning  by  corrosive 
sublimate,  if  a  dose  of  the  hydrated  protosul- 
phuret  of  iron  (see  No.  4149)  bo  administered 
it    instantly    renders  tho  poison  innocuous. 
This  antidote  is  almost  useless  unless  taken 
•within  15  or  20  minutes  after  swallowing  the 
poison. 

5904.  Antidotes  for  Verdigris    and 
Sulphate    of   Copper.     The  treatment    13  j 
the  same  as  for  corrosive  sublimate.     (Sec 
No.  5902.) 

5905.  Antidotes  for  Nitrate  of  Silver. 
Same    as  for  corrosive    sublimate   (nee   No.  \ 
5902),  -with  copious  draughts  of  -warm  -water 
and  salt.     (Sec  No.  5895.) 

5906.  Antidote     for     Phosphorus. 
Same  as  for  corrosive  sublimate.  ,  (See  No. 
5902. )    Phosphorus  is  tho  principal  ingredient 
used  in  tho  manufacture  of  matches. 

5907.  Antidote  for  Sulphate  of  Zinc. 
Solution   of  carbonate  of  soda;   also   cream, 
butter,  and  chalk,  are  good  antidotes  for  sul- 
phate  of  zinc   (white  vitriol).      Give   "water 
after  tho  antidotes. 

5908.  Antidotes  for  Lead.    Litharge, 
red    lead,   white    lead,   sugar    of  lead,   and 
Goulard's  extract.      In  the  first  stage,  or  the 
irritant  form  of  injury,  administer  sulphate  of 
magnesia,  potash,  or  soda.     The  phosphate  of 
soda  is  a  good  antidote.      "When  palsy  super- 
venes, the  regimen  must  bo  regulated  care- 
fully. 

5909.  Antidotes  for  Opium  and  its 
Preparations.     Emetics  of  tho  sulphate  of 
zinc,  5  drachm  or  2  scruples ;   the  stomach 
pump,  or  injections  of  tartar  emetic,  must  be 
employed  to  bring  away  the  poison.    Tho 
patient  should  be  constantly  roused  by  drag- 
ging about  the  floor,  throwing  cold  \vater  in 
the  face,  and  giving  ammonia,  assafoetida,  and 
strong  coffee. 

5910.  New  Antidote  for  Opium.     In 
a  case  of  accidental  poisoning  by  a:i  overdose 
of  morphia,  tho  administration  of  13  drops  of 
Norwood's   tincture  of  green  hellebore   was 
followed  by  a  complete  cure.     Tho  narcotic 
had  obtained  such  mastery  over  tho  unfortu- 
nate patient  that  tho  pupils  of  the  eyes  had 
contracted,  and  the  jaws  had  to  bo  forced 
open  to  give  the  medicine,  which  was  mixed 
with  2   ounces  of  brandy.      All  appearance 
of  poisonous  effects  had  vanished  in  an  hour. 

5911.  Antidotes   for   Prussic    Acid. 
Small  quantities   of  ammonia  water  diluted 
with  10  or  12  parts  of  water;  also  tho  fumes 
inhaled.      Tho  joint  administration  of  carbon- 
ate of  potash  and  sulphate  of  iron.     This  has 
been    lately     very    strongly    recommended. 
Cold  affusion  should  bo  adopted  in  all  cases, 
and  is  almost  of  itself  a  certain  cure,  if  em- 
ployed before  the  convulsive  stago  is  over: 
and  it  is  often  successful  even  during  the 
stage  of  insensibility  and  paralysis.    Artificial 
respiration  should  also  bo  attempted.     Un- 
fortunately, the  poisonous  action  of  prussic 
acid  is  so   rapid  that  life  is  usually  extinct 
before  antidotes  can  be  applied.  (See  No.  5913.) 

5912.  Antidotes  for  Strychnia  and 
Nux-vomica.     Evacuate  the  stomach  with 
the   stomach    pump  or  emetics.      (See   No. 
581)0.)     No  antidote  is  known. 


5913.  Antidotes  for  Carbonic  Acid 
Gas.     When  asphyxia  from  the  inhalation  of 
carbonic  acid  gas  occurs,  the  patient  should 
bo  immediately  removed  into  the  open  air, 
and  placed  upon    his    back  with  the  head 
slightly  raised.     Cold  water  should  be  dashed 
over  the  body,  hot  water  applied  to  the  feet, 
and  ammonia  to  tho  nostrils.    Brandy  and  wa- 
ter, and  other   stimulants,  may  bo  adminis- 
tered.    Friction  on  the  surface  of  the  body  is 
also  recommended.    If  the  patient  has  ceased 
to  breathe,  artificial  respiration  should  be  at- 
tempted.     This  may  be   done    by  pressing 
down  the  ribs,   forcing  up   the   dinphragm, 
and  then  suddenly   withdrawing    the    pres- 
sure.    (See  No.  5893,  Rule  V.) 

5914.  Antidotes  for  Poisonous  Mush- 
rooms.     The    best    antidote    to    poisonous 
mushrooms  is  tannin,  or  an  infusion  or  de- 
coction of  galls.    A  strong  emetic  should  also 
be  given  to  remove  them  from  the  stomach. 

5915.  Antidote   for    Carbolic   Acid. 
Dr.  Grace  Calvert  state;?  that  the  best  anti- 
dote after  the  stomach  pump  is  large  doses  of 
olivp  or  almond  oil,  with  a  little  castor  oil. 
Oil  is  a  solvent,  and  consequently  a  diluent 
of  carbolic  acid,  and  may  be  used  to  stop  tho 
corrosive  effect  of  the  acid  when  the  action 
on  the  skin  is  too  violent.    Dr.  Huseinann,  of 
Gottingen,    suggests,    for    counteracting   its 
effects  on  the  stomach,   a  new  preparation 
which  he  calls  calcaria  saccharata  (saccha- 
rate  of  lime),    prepared    by  dissolving    16 
parts  refined  sugar  in  40  parts  water,   and 
adding  5  parts  slacked  lime.     Digest  the  mix- 
ture for  3  days,  stir  occasionally,  filter,  and 
evaporate  to  dryness. 

5916.  Antidote   for   Poisoning    by 
Chlorine.      Chlorine    gas    is    an    irritative 
poison,  and  tho  best  antidotes  are  said  to  bo 
ammoniacal  gas,  or  tho  vapor  of  warm  water, 
of  wine,  or  of  ether.     The  effects  of  chlorine 
have  been  known  to  pass  off  in  tho  open  air ; 
leaving,  in  a  certain  instance,  a  violent  cough, 
which  disappeared  in  a  few  hours. 

5917.  Hodgen's    Simple    Stomach 
Pump.     Attach  4  feet  of  india-rubber  tubing 
to  a  stomach  tube,  fill  both  with  water  by 
simply  dipping  it  in  tho  liquid,  end  first,  then 
compressing  the  clastic   tube    between    tho 
thumb  and  finger  to  keep  the  fluid  from  run- 
ning out,  introduce  the  stomach  tube  down 
tho  throat  of  the  patient,  lower  the  outer  end 
of  tho  elastic  tube,  and  the  contents  of  tho 
stomach  pour  out  as  readily  as  if  from  an  open 
vessel,  tho  rubber  tube  acting  as  a  syphon. 
"WTien  tho  fluid  ceases  to  flow,  dip  tho  outer 
end  of  tho  tube  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
water,  elevate  the  vessel  containing  it  above 
tho  level  of  the  patient's  mouth,  and  the  stom- 
ach is  soon  filled ;  lower  again  the  outer  end 
of  tho  tube  and  the  stomach  is  emptied.     This 
can,  of  course,  be  repeated  as  often  as  is  ne- 
cessary.    The  advantages  claimed  for    this 
simple  contrivance  are,  that  it  is  of  speedy 
and  easy  application,  has  no  valves  to  become 
obstructed  or  deranged,  and  is  far  less  expen- 
sive than  a  stomach  pump. 

5918.  Cure  for  Ulcers  Caused  by 
Cyanide  of  Potassium.  This  substance  is 
used  in  electroplating  and  other  arts,  and 
sometimes  occasions  ulcers  on  the  hands.  Pro- 
tosulphate  of  iron  in  fine  powder,  ground  in 
raw  linseed  oil,  is  recommended  by  a  prac- 


512 


MEDICAL    EECEIPTS. 


tical  man,  as  the  most  effectual  application 
for  relieving  the  pain  and  healing  the  sores. 

5919.  Treatment  for    Hydrophobia. 
First  dose,  1  ounce  elecampane  root,  boiled  in 
1  pint  milk  until  reduced  to  i  pint.     Second 
dose  (to  be  taken  2  days  after  the  first),  Ik 
ounces  elecampane  root  in  1  pint  of  milk, 
boiled  as  the  first.    Third  dose,  the  same  as 
the  second  (to  be  taken  2  days  after) ;  in  all, 
3  doses.    Mr.  J.  "W.  "Woolston,  a  respectable 
eitizen  of  Philadelphia,  vouches  for  the  above 
receipt.     He  says :  "I  have  known  of  its  being 
tried  in  one  case,  and  no  inconvenience  has 
been  felt.     A  friend  of  mine,  of  whom  I 
obtained  the  receipt,  knew  of  20  instances 
where  it  was  successfully  given."    Wo  give 
the  above  for  what  it  is  worth,  but  we  have 
no  great  faith  in  it. 

5920.  Cure  for   Hydrophobia.      Cut 
out  completely  the  wounded  part  before  the 
poison  can  be  absorbed.     It  is  recommended, 
m  order  .to  do  this  quickly  and  thoroughly, 
that  a  stick  bo  whittled  to  a  shape  resembling 
a  dog's  tooth,  and  inserted  in  the  wound.    This 
supports  the  part,   and  renders  the  cutting 
more  easy  and  certain.     This  should  be  fol- 
lowed by  cauterization,   either  by  the    use 
of  a  hot  iron,  or  some  strong  caustic  substance. 

6921.  To  Remove  the  Virus  in  Hy- 
drophobia. Suck  the  bitten  part  well,  spit- 
ting out  the  fluid  obtained  from  the  wound ; 
then  apply  some  strong  nitric  acid,  or  lunar 
caustic,  and  bind  the  part  up  as  tightly  as  the 
patient  can  bear  it.  Only  one  cauterization  is 
needed. 

5922.  Youatt's  Cure  for  Hydrophobia. 
Touatt  (the  great  horse  doctor)  says  he  has 
been   bitten  eight  or  ten  times  and  always 
cured  himself  by  rubbing  nitrate  of  silver  in 
the  wound.     It  should  be  applied  as  soon 
after  the  accident  as  may  be.    In  6  weeks  the 
virus  is  disseminated  through  the  system  and 
then  hope  is  gone. 

5923.  Preventive  of  Hydrophobia. 
The    production    of   profuse  perspiration    is 
sometimes  of  great  use  in  preventing  the  bad 
effects  of  a  bite,  so  it  should  be  tried. 

5  924.  Bibron's  Antidote  to  the  Poison 
of  the  Rattlesnake.  Iodide  of  potassium,  4 
grains;  corrosive  sublimate,  2  grains;  bromine, 
5  drachms.  10  drops  of  this  mixture,  diluted 
with  1  or  2  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy,  wine, 
or  whiskey,  constitute  a  dose,  to  be  repeated 
if  necessary.  It  must  be  kept  in  glass-stop- 
pered phials,  well  secured,  as  the  air  will  af- 
fect it.  The  saltst  may,  in  case  of  emergency, 
be  first  dissolved  in  a  little  water,  before  add- 
ing the  bromine,  as  this  dissolves  them  very 
slowly.  This  is  a  valuable  remedy.  Dr. 
Hammond,  in  speaking  of  the  remedy,  says 
that  during  a  recent  expedition  to  the  Kocky 
Mountains,  he  had  frequent  opportunities  to 
test  its  efficiency.  The  results  were  satisfac- 
tory, and  he  thinks  that,  when  taken  in  time,  it 
may  be  entirely  depended  upon  in  the  poison- 
ous wounds  of  the  rattlesnake. 

5925.  To  Extract  the  Poison  from  a 
Rattlesnake  Bite.  The  most  direct  and 
efficient  means  of  counteracting  the  absorp- 
tion of  the  poison  i.j  suction,  and  this  is  most 
effectually  done  by  exhausting  a  cupping- 
glass  over  the  wo'und.  The  cupping-glass 
must  be  applied  as  soon  after  the  injury  as 
possible,  and  kept  exhausted  until  all  danger 


has  passed.  It  has  been  proved  that  the  bites 
of  vipers,  both  on  man  and  animals,  were  ren- 
dered entirely  harmless  by  the  application  of 
these  glasses. 

5926.  Cure  for  Snake  Bites.    As  many 
as  8000  persons  die  annually  in  British  India 
and  Burmah,  from  the  effects  of  snake  bites. 
The  Inspector  of  Police  to  the  Bengal  Govern- 
ment reports  that  of  939  cases  in  which  am- 
monia was  freely  administered,.  702  victims 
have  recovered,  and  in  the  cured  instances, 
the  remedy  was  not  administered  till  about  34 
hours  after  the  attack,  on  the  average.     In  the 
fatal  cases,  the  corresponding  duration  of  time 
was  4J  hours. 

5927.  To  Cure  the  Stings  of  Hornets, 
Wasps,  Bees,  and  Spiders.     Swelling  may 
instantly  be  arrested   by   an   application   of 
equal  parts  common  salt  and  bicarbonate  of 
soda,  dissolved  in  warm  water,  and  well  rub- 
bed in  on  the  place  bitten  or  stung.     (See  also 
No.  5929.) 

5928.  Cure  for  Stings  of  Wasps,  &c. 
Rub  the  part  affected  with  a  mixture  of  1  part 
spirits  of  hartshorn  and  2  parts  olive  oil. 

5929.  To  Cure  the  Bites  of  Insects. 
Dissolve  1  ounce  borax  in  1  pint  water  that 
has  been  boiled  and  allowed  to  cool.     Instead 
of  plain  water,  distilled  rose-water,  elder,  or 
orange-flower  water  is  more  pleasant.    The 
bites  are  to  be  dabbed  with  the  solution  as 
long  as  there  is  any  irritation.     For  bees'  or 
wasps'  stings  the  borax  solution  may  be  made 
of  twice  the  above  strength. 

5930.  To  Cure  Poisoning  by  Poison 
Ivy,   Oak,   or  Sumach.     Bathe    the    poi- 
soned part  thoroughly  with  hot  water,  without 
soap.     "WTaen  dry,  paint  the  place  liberally,  2 
to  4  times  a  day,  with  a  feather  dipped  in 
strong  tincture   of  lobelia.     Avoid   bringing 
the  tincture  in  contact  with  any  fresh  wound 
or  excoriation. 

5931.  Remedy  for  Poison  Ivy,  &c. 
In  some  cases,  where  lobelia  (see  hist  receipt) 
does  not  succeed  quickly,  an  application,  in  a 
similar  manner,  of  fluid  extract  of  gelseminum 
sempervirens  (yellow  jessamine)  will  rarely 
fail  to  cure.     Both  of  these  are  excellent 
remedies,  generally  acting  like  magic. 

5932.  Remarks  on  Poison  Ivy,  &c. 
Poison  ivy,   etc.,   act  very  differently  upon 
different  people.     Some  people  are  entirely 
proof  against  its  effects,  and  can,  with  im- 
punity,  rub    it  on    without    any    ill  effect. 
Others  are  poisoned  by  simple  contact  with 
clothing  that  has  touched  it.     This  difference 
of  susceptibility  to  the  poison  seems  to  apply 
equally  to  the  remedies,  as  what  will  cure  one 
person 'has  little  or  no  effect  on  another. 

5933.  Applications  for  Poison  Ivy. 
Various  applications  have  been  used  for  tne 
same  purpose ;  bathing  the  parts  with  a  decoc- 
tion of  hemlock  boughs,  or  of  oak  leaves;  or 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  copperas  (sulphate  of 
iron)  in  a  small  tea-cupful  of  boiling  water ; 
or  painting  over  with  fresh  lime-water;  or 
rubbing  wet  salt  on  the  poisoned  part ;   or 
bathing  the  parts  affected  freely  with  spirit  of 
nitre.    If  the  blisters  bo  broken,   so  as  to 
allow  the  nitre  to  penetrate,  more  than  a  sin- 
gle application  is  rarely  necessary.     It  will 
scarcely  be  possible  to  fail  in  finding,  in  one 
or  other  of  the  remedies  here  given,  a  means 
of  cure  suited  to  the  party  affected. 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


Tables  of  Weights,  Mea- 
sures, &C.  The  following  tables 
have  been  compiled  for  the  purpose  of  aiding 
the  reader  to  determine  with  facility,  the 
relative  values  of  different  weights  and  mea- 
sures ;  and  to  furnish  in  a  convenient  group  a 
mass  of  valuable  information  that  would 
otherwise  have  to  be  sought  for  in  a  number 
of  volumes  not  easy  of  access.  Most  of  the 
tables  have  been  made  expressly  for  this 
work,  and  all  of  them  have  been  carefully 
recalculated,  revised,  and  corrected  by  a  com- 
petent mathematician. 

5935.  Avoirdupois  "Weight  is  em- 
ployed for  weighing  all  goods,  except  those 
for  which  Troy  or  Apothecaries  weight  are 
used.  The  ton  is  subdivided  into  hundred- 
weights, quarters,  pounds,  ounces,  and 
drachms.  (See  No.  6031.')  Some  goods  are 
sold  by  the  hundred-weight  of  100  pounds, 
instead  of  the  hundred-weight  (cwt.)  of  112 
pounds;  a  ton  composed  of  20  hundreds 
would  then  contain  only  2000  pounds.  The 
pound  avoirdupois  consists  of  7000  Troy 
grains.  The  drachm  avoirdupois  is  therefore 
27.34375  Troy  grains.  The  standard  avoirdu- 
pois pound  of  the  United  States  is  the  weight 
of  27.7015  cubic  inches  of  distilled  water,  at 
39.83°  Fahr.,  the  barometer  being  at  30  inches. 


Ton.  Cwt.       Qrs.         Lbs.  Oz.  Dr. 

1  =  20  =  80  =  2,240  =  35,840  =  573,440 

1=4=      112  =     1,792  =    28,672 

1  =       28  =       448  =      7,168 

1  =         16  =         256 

1  =  16 

Equivalents     of     Avoirdupois 
in  Troy  Weight. 

Lbs.         Oz. 


5936. 


Avoirdupois. 

ITon 

1  Cwt. 

IQr. 

1  Lb. 

1  Oz. 

IDr. 
5937. 


Dwt.   Grains. 


2922 

146 

34 

1 


=     I 


13 

6 

6 

11 

18 

1 


8 
16 

16    ' 
16 

5* 

3H 


Value   of  Avoirdupois  Weight 
in  Apothecaries  Measure. 

/?     /3          TTJ? 

1  po.und  =  15        2        53.3622 
1  ounce  =  7        40.8351 

5938.    Value  of  Avoirdupois  in  Apo- 
thecaries Weight. 

Avoirdupois.  Apothecaries. 

ft  §  3  3 
1  pound  =1  2  4  2 
1  ounce  =  70 

1  drachm  =  1 

In  the  new  British  Pharmacopoeia  the  weights 
are  expressed  in  pounds,  ounces,  and  grains 
avoirdupois.  (See  No.  6031.) 


Gr. 

0 

17* 


5939.     Decimal  Equivalents  of  Ibs.,  qrs.,  and  cwt. 


qrs.   Ibs.  cwt. 

qrs.  Ibs.  cwt. 

qrs.  Ibs.  cwt. 

qrs.  Ibs.  cwt. 

0   0£=.0044 

1   0=.25 

2   0=.5 

3   0=.75 

0   1   .0089 

1   1  .2589 

2   1  .5089 

3   1  .7589 

0   2   .0178 

1   2  .2678 

2   2  .5178 

3   2  .7678 

0   3   .0268 

1   3  .2768 

2   3  .5268 

3   3  .7768 

0   4   .0357 

1   4  .2857 

2   4  .5357 

3   4  .7857 

0   5   .0446 

1   5  .2946 

2   5  .5446 

3   5  .7946 

0   6   .0535 

1   6  .3035 

2   6  .5535 

3   6  .8035 

0   7   .0625 

1   7  .3125 

2   7  .5625 

3   7  .8125 

0   8   .0714 

1   8  .3214 

2   8  .5714 

3   8  .8214 

0   9   .0803 

1   9  .3303 

2   9  .5803 

3   9  .8303 

0  10   .0892 

1  10  .3392 

2  10  .5892 

3  10  .8392 

0  11   .0982 

1  11  .3482 

2  11  .5982 

3  11  .8482 

0  12   .1071 

1  12  .3571 

2  12  .6077 

3  12  .8571 

0  13   .1160 

1  13  .3660 

2  13  .6160 

3  13  .8660 

0  14   .125 

1  14  .375 

2  14  .625 

3  14  .875 

0  15   .1339 

1  15  .3839 

2  15  .6339 

3  15  .8839 

0  16   .1429 

1  16  .3929 

2  16  .6429 

3  16  .8929 

0  17   .1518 

1  17  .4018 

2  17  .6518 

3  17  .9018 

0  18   .1607 

1  18  .4107 

2  18  .6607 

3  18  .9107 

0  19   .1696 

1  19  .4196 

2  19  .6696 

3  19  .9-196 

0  20   .1786 

1  20  .4286 

2  20  .6786 

3  20  .9286 

0  21   .1875 

1  21  .4375 

2  21  .6875 

3  21  .9375 

0  22   .1964 

1  22  .4464 

2  22  .6964 

3  22  .9464 

0  23   .2054 

1  23  .4554 

2  23  .7054 

3  23  .9554 

0  24   .2143 

1  24  .4643 

2  24  .7143 

3  24  .9643 

0  25   .2232 

1  25  .4732 

2  25  .7232 

3  25  .9732 

0  26   .2321 

1  26  .4821 

2  26  .7321 

3  26  .9821 

0  27   .2411 

1  27  .4911 

2  27  .7411 

3  27  .9911 

5940.    Decimal  Equivalents  of  Pounds  and  Ounces. 


OZ. 

Ib. 

OZ. 

Ib. 

OZ. 

Ib. 

OZ. 

Ib. 

OZ. 

Ib. 

1 

.015625 

3 

.1875 

6* 

.40625 

10 

.625 

13i 

.84375 

* 

.03125 

81 

.21875 

7 

.4375 

10i 

.65625 

14 

.875 

1 

.046875 

4 

.25 

7h 

.46875 

11 

.6875 

14* 

.90625 

1 

.0625 

4* 

.28125 

8 

.5 

111 

.71875 

15 

.9375 

H 

.09375 

5 

.3125 

8£ 

.53125 

12 

.75 

15i 

.96875 

2 

.125 

5* 

.34375 

9  - 

.5625 

12i 

.78125 

16 

1. 

24 

.15625 

6 

.375 

9k 

.59375 

13 

.8125 

TABLES    OF  WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


5941.    Avoirdupois  Weight  Expressed 
in  Grains. 

Avoirdupois.  Grams. 

1  Ton        =  1,015,938.84  =  1.016  Milliers 
1  Cwt.       =       50,796.94  =  5.080  Myriagrams 
1  Quarter  =       12,699.23  =  1.270  Myriagrams 
1  Pound    =  453.54  =  4.535  Hectograms 

1  Ounce    =  28.34  =2.834  Dekagrams 

1  Drachm  =  1.77 

5942.  Troy  Weight  is  used  by  jewelers 
for  weighing  gold,  silver,  platina,  and  all 
precious  stones  except  the  diamond;  and  is 
the  weight  adopted  by  the  mint.  The  pound 
Troy  contains  5.760  grains. 

Found.        Ounces.     Pennyweights.      Grains. 

1      =      12      =      240      =      5760 

1       =         20       =        480 

1       =          24 

1 

5943.  Diamond  Weight.  Diamonds 
are  weighed  by  a  separate  method ;  the  carat, 
equivalent  to  3.2  grains  Troy,  is  thus  subdi- 
vided. 

Carat.         Grains.  Parts.       Troy  Grains. 

1       =       4       =       16      =      3.2 
1       =        4      =        .8 
1      =        .2 

5944.  Troy  Weight   Compared  with 

Avoirdupois. 
Troy.  Avoirdupois. 

Oz.  Dr. 

1  Pound  =  13  2.65 
1  Ounce  =  1  1.55 
1  Dwt.  =  0.877 

5945.  Equivalents  of  Troy  in  Apothe- 

caries Weight. 
Troy.  Apothecaries. 

ft      1       3       3      <*• 
1  Pound  =  1        0        0        0        0 
1  Ounce  =  1000 

1  Dwt.     =  14 

1  Grain    =  1 

5946.  Troy    Weight    Expressed    in 

Grams. 

Troy.  Grams. 

1  Pound  =  373.202,  or  3.732  Hectograms 
1  Ounce  =    31.100,  or  3.110  Dekagrams 
1  Dwt.     =      1.555 
1  Grain    =        .0648,  or  6.48  Centigrams. 

5947.  Approximate  Values   of  Troy 

in  Metrical  Weight. 
Troy 

•weight.  Weight.  Measure. 

32  oz.        =    1  kilogramme,  =  1         litre. 

16  oz.        =    }£lrilog.  =  600  grams,     =     .500 
4  oz.       =  125  grams,     =     .125 

1  oz.       =  32  grams,     =       .32 

1  dr'm.  =  4  grams,     =        .4 

15  grains  =  Igram,       =        .1  cubic 

centimetre. 

\yx  gr'ns  =  1  decigram. 

5948.    Assayer's  Gold  Weights.    The 

richness  or  purity  of  gold  is  expressed  in 
carats.  Pure  gold  is  spoken  of  as  containing 
24  carats,  of  12  grains  each ;  and  any  sample 
containing  12,  18,  22,  or  any  other  number  ol 
parts  of  pure  gold,  in  24  parts,  is  said  to  be  o: 
so  many  carats  fine.  In  the  process  of  assay- 
ing gold,  the  real  quantity  taken  is  very 
small,  generally  6  or  12  grains;  and  this  is 
termed  the  "  assay  pound."  It  is  nominally 
subdivided  into  24  carats,  and  each  carat  into 
4  assay  grains,  and  each  grain  into  quarters 
"When  the  assay  pound  is  only  6  grains,  the 
quarter  of  the  assay  grain  will  only  weigh  the 
^  of  a  grain;  hence  the  most  accurate  system 
of  weighing  must  be  adopted. 


5949.   Assayer's  Silver  Weights.   The 

richness  or  purity  of  silver  is  either  expressed 
n  pennyweights  or  roW  In  the  first 
;ase,  it  is  supposed  that  the  mass  of  silver  to 
>e  examined  consists  of  12  equal  parts,  called 
)ennyweight,s ;  so  that  if  an  ingot  weighs  an 
>unce,  each  of  the  parts  will  be  iV  of  an 
ounce.  Hence,  if  the  mass  of  silver  be  pure, 
t  is  called  silver  of  12  pennyweights;  if  it 
ontain  -jV  of  its  weight  of  alloy,  it  is  called 
silver  of  11  pennyweights;  if  -&•  of  its 
weight  be  alloy,  it  is  called  silver  of  10  penny- 
weights; and  so  on  in  proportion  for  other 
qualities.  It  must  be  observed  here,  that 
;he  assayers  give  the  name  pennyweight  to  a 
weight  equal  to  24  real  grains,  which  must 
not  be  confounded  with  their  ideal  weights. 
The  assayer's  grains  are  called  fine  grains. 
An  ingot  of  fine  silver,  or  silver  of  12  penny- 
weights, contains,  then,  288  fine  grains;  if 
,his  ingot  contain  -y^s  of  alloy,  it  is  said 
o  be  silver  of  11  pennyweights  and  23  grains; 
f  it  contain  ^ir  °f  &Uoy,  it  is  said  to  be 
[1  pennyweights,  20  grains,  <fec.  The  purity 
of  silver  is  now  more  frequently  expressed  in 

,  which  admits  of  greater  accuracy. 
5950.    Table  for  Converting  Troy  into 
Avoirdupois  Weight. 


Troy                  Avoirdupois 

Troy                    Avoirdupois 

Ounce*.           OnnceH.  Grains. 

Ounces.            Ounces.  Grains. 

1      =      1      42i 

7      =      7      297i 

2      =      2      85 

8      =      8      340 

3      =      3     127  i 

9      =      9      382i 

4      =      4     170 

10      =     10      425 

5      =      5    212i 

11       =    12        30 

6      =      6    255 

12      =     13        72* 

175  Troy  ounces  are  eq 
Troy.         Avoirdupois. 

ual  to  192  avoirdupois. 
Troy.         Avoirdupois. 

ft,         ft,  Oz.   Gr. 

ft,          ft,  Oz.  Gr. 

1     =    0  13    72h 

18  =     14  12  430 

2     =     1  10  145 

19  =     15  10    65 

3     =    27  217i 

20  =     16    7  137  i 

4     =    3    4  290 

30  =    24  10  425 

5    =    41  362i 

40  =     32  14  275 

6    =    4  14  435 

50  =    41    2  125 

7     =    5  12    70 

60  =    49    5  4124 

8    =    69  1424 

70  =    57    9  262J 

9    =    7    6  215 

80  =    65  13  112i 

10    =    8    3  287i 

90  =    74    0  400 

11     =    9    0  360 

100  =    82    4  250 

12    =    9  13  432i 

175  =  144    0      0 

13     =  10  11     67^ 

200  =  164     9    62i 

14    =11    8  140 

300  =  246  13  312i 

15    =  12    5  212i 

400  =  329    2  125 

16    =13    2  285 

500  =  411    6  375 

17     =  13  15  357  i 

1000  =  822  13  3124 

5951.  Apothecaries  Weight  is  a  sub- 
division of  the  Troy  pound  into  ounces, 
drachms,  scruples,  and  grains.  It  is  used  in 
compounding  medicines,  and  is  the  officinal 
standard  of  the  U.  S.  Pharmacopeia, 
ft,  §  3  3  Grs. 

1     =     12    =    96    =    288    =    5760 
1     =      8    =      24     =      480 
1     =        3    =        60 
1     =        20 
1 

5952.    Apothecaries  Weight  Compared 
with  Avoirdupois  Weight. 


Apothecaries. 

1  Pound 
1  Ounce 
1  Drachm 
1  Scruple 


Avoirdupois. 


Oz. 

13 

1 


Dr. 
2.65 
1.55 
2.19 
0.73 


TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


515 


5953.  Apothecaries  Weight  Compared 

with  Troy  Weight. 

Apothecaries.  Troy. 

Lb.  Oz.  Dwt.  Gr. 
1  Pound  =  1000 
1  Ounce  =  100 

1  Drachm       =  2      12 

1  Scruple        =  20 

5954.  Value  of  Apothecaries  Weight 
in  Apothecaries  Measure. 

Weight  fl      fZ          m 

1  Pound  =        12        5        7.2238 

1  Ounce  =10  25.6020 

1  Drachm  =01        3.2002 

1  Scruple  =00  21.0667 

1  Grain  =00        1.0533 

5955.  Apothecaries  Weight  Expressed 

in  Grams. 

1  Pound        =        3.732  Hectograms 
1  Ounce        =        3.110  Dekagrams 
1  Drachm      =        3.887  Grams 
1  Scruple      =        1.296      " 
1  Grain         =        6.4      Centigrams. 
5956.      Apothecaries,  or  Wine  Mea- 
sure, is  the  gallon  of  liquid  measure  divided 
into  pints,  fluid  ounces,   fluid  drachms,  and 
minims.     The  minim  being  equivalent  to  one 
drop  of  -water.     The  symbols  or  abbreviations 
used  in  this  table  •will  be  found  explained  in 
No.   5964.    In  all  the  tables  of  comparison  be- 
tween apothecaries  measure  and  avoirdupois  or 
other  weights,  the  basis  assumed  is  the  weight 
of  a  cubic  inch  of  water  at  a  temperature  of 
39.83°    Fahr.,  the    barometer    being    at    30 
inches,   and  is    equivalent  to  252.693    Troy 
grains.     A  grain  measure  is  the  capacity  or 
bulk  of  a  grain  of  water  weighed  at  its  maxi- 
mum density ;  a  grain  measure  of  any  fluid, 
therefore,  weighs  more  or  less  than  a  grain, 
according  as  its  specific  gravity  is  greater  or 
less  than  water  at  standard  temperature. 

Cong.   0.  f%  fZ  W.         Cubic  Inches. 

1  =  8  =  128  =  1024  =  61440  =  231 

1  =     16  =     128  =    7680  =    28.875 
1  =        8  =      480  =       1.8047 
1  =        60  =         .2256 
1  =         ,0376 

5957.  Graduated 
Fluid  Measures.  Fluids 
are  measured  by  means  of 
glass  vessels  having  a  grad- 
uated scale  engraved  on 
their  sides.  These  are  of 
different  capacities,  to  mea- 
sure 8  ounces,  2  ounces,  1 
ounce  and  1  drachm  re- 
spectively; the  scale  of 
each  being  graduated  to  re- 
present the  aliquot  parts 
of  their  respective  capaci- 
ties. 


No.  1  represents  an  8-ounce  measure ;  the 


figures  on  the  left  of  the  graduated  scale  de- 
note ounces,  and  those  on  the  right,  drachms ; 
the  first  ounce  being  divided  into  quarters  of 
2  drachms  each.  No.  2  is  a  2-ounce  measure, 
the  first  half-ounce  being  divided  into 
drachms.  Nos.  3  and  4  are  1  ounce  and  1 
drachm  measures  respectively ;  the  former  is 
graduated  in  drachms,  the  first  of  which  is 
divided  into  halves ;  the  latter  is  marked  in 
divisions  of  5  minims  each. 

5958.  Relative  Value  ofTJ.  S.  Apothe- 
caries and  British  Imperial  Measure. 
(See  No,  6031.) 

U.  S.  Imperial  Measure. 

Apothecaries 

Measure.  pints. 

1  Gallon  —    .83311  Imp.  Gallon,  or  6 

1  Pint      -    .83311  "      Pint,      or 

1  Fl.Oz.   —  1.04139  "      Fl.Oz.,   or 

1  Fl.Dr.  —  1.04139  "      Fl.Dr.,   or 

1  Minim  —  1.04139  "      Minim,  or  

5959.  Apothecaries  Measure  Expressed 
in  Litres. 


Fl.dr.  Minims. 
2  22.85 

6  17.86 

0  19.87 

1  2.48 
1.04 


1  Gallon 
1  Pint  = 

1  Fluid  ounce  = 
1  Fluid  drachm  = 
1  Minim  = 

5960. 


3.78515  Litres. 
4.73143  Decilitres 
2.95715  Centilitres 
3.69644  Miffllitres 
.06160         « 

Value  of  Apothecaries  Measure 

in  Avoirdupois  Weight. 

1  Gallon  =        8.332698  Pounds 

1  Pint  =        1.041587  Pounds 

1  Fluid  Ounce  =        1.041587  Ounces 

5961.     Value  of  Apothecaries  Measure 

in  Troy  Weight. 


Apothecaries 
Measure. 

1  Gallon  = 

1  Pint  = 

1  Fluid  Ounce  = 
1  Fluid  Drachm  = 
1  Minim  = 

5962. 


Troy  Weight. 
Lbs.  Oz.  Dwt.  Grains. 


10     1     10      8.88 
133     19.11 
18    23.69 
2      8.96 
.95 

Value  of  Apothecaries  Measure 
in  Apothecaries  Weight. 
Measure.  ft  f  3  3  Grains      Grains 

1  Gallon  =  10  1  4  0    8.88  =  58328.886 

1  Pint  =1311  11.11  =    7291.1107 

1  Fluid  ounce    =          71  15.69  =      455.6944 
1  Fluid  drachm  =  2  16.96  =        56.9618 

1  Minim  .9493 

5963.  Miscellaneous     Measures    and 

their  Equivalents. 

Tea-spoonful about  1  fl.  drachm. 

Dessert    "     2        " 

Table       "     4        " 

"Wine-glassful 2  fl.  ounces. 

Tea-cupful 4        " 

Breakfast-cupful 8        " 

Tumblerful 8        " 

Thimbleful £.  fl.  drachm. 

Pinch  (of  leaves  and  flowers)         1  dr.  (Trov). 
Handful  10 

5964.  Signs  and  Abbreviations  Used 
in  Medical  Prescriptions. 

$ Recipe Take 

aa Ana Of  each 

ft Libra Pound 

? TJncia Ounce 

3 Drachma Drachm 

3 Scrupulus Scruple 

Cong Congius Gallon 

0 Octarius Pint 

/5 Fluid  Uncia Fluid  Ounce 

fZ Fluid  Drachma Fluid  Drachm 

nj? Minimum Minim 

Chart....  Chartula Small  paper 

Coch Cochlear ..Spoonful 

I 


516 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


Collyr. . .  Collyrium Eye-water 

Decot . . .  Decoctum Decoction 

Ft Fiat Make 

Garg Gargarysma Gargle 

Gr Granum Grain 

Gtt Gutta Drop 

Haust. . .  Haustus Draught 

Infus..  ..Infusum Infusion 

M Misce Mix 

Mass Massa Mass 

Mist Mistura Mixture 

Pulv Pulvis Powder 

Q.  S Quantum  Sufficit. Sufficient  Quantity 

S Signa Write 

S.  S Semis Half 

5965.  Strength  of  Doses  at  Different 
Ages.     The  following  gradations  for  doses  of 
medicines    apportioned    to    the  age    of  the 
patient  were  originally  drawn  up  by  Gaubius. 

Under  k  year  -fa  of  a  full  dose. 

'IT 

"  2  years 
"  3 
"  4 
"  7 
"  14 
"  20 

Above  21        the  full  dose. 
"     63 
"     77 
"    100 

Dr.  Young  gives  the  following  simple  for- 
mula: For  children  under  12  years,  the  doses 
of  most  medicines  must  be  diminished  in  the 
proportion  of  the  age  to  the  age  increased  by 
12.  Thus,  at  2  years,  the  dose  will  be  4-  of 
that  for  an  adult,  viz : 

2 

2  +  12=| 
Sex,  temperament,  constitutional  strength, 
and  the  habits  and  idiosyncrasies  of  individ- 
uals, must  be  taken  into  account.  Nor  does 
the  same  rule  apply  to  all  medicines.  Calo- 
mel, for  instance,  is  generally  borne  better  by 
children  than  by  adults ;  while  opium  affect 
them  more  powerfully,  and  requires  the  dose 
to  be  diminished  considerably  below  that  in- 
dicated above. 

5966.  Liquid  Measure.    This  is  used 
for  all  liquids  which  are  sold  by  measure.  The 
United  States  Government  standard  gallon, 
adopted  by  the  Treasury  Department  in  1832, 
has  a  capacity  of  231  cubic  inches,  and  con- 
tains 58,372.2  troy  grains  of  distilled  water, 
at  39.83°  Fahr.,  the  temperature  of  its  max- 
imum density. 

Gal.      Quarts.    Pints.        Gills.         Cubic  Inches. 
1     =     4     =     8     =     32     =     231 

8     =      57.75 
4     =      28.875 
1     =        7.2175 

A  Barrel  contains  31  \  gallons. 

A  Tierce         "  42 

A  Puncheon  "  2  tierces,       or    84 

A  Hogshead  "  2  barrels,       or    63 

A  Pipe  "  2  hogsheads,  or  126 

A  Tun  "  2  pipes,         or  252 

5967.      Liquid    Measure    Compared 

with  Apothecaries  Measure.     The  gallon 

and  pint  are  the  same  in  both  measures.     A 

liquid  gill  contains  4  fluid  ounces,  or  32  fluid 

drachms,  or  1920  minims. 


5968.  Relative  Value  of  TJ.  S.  Liquid 
Measure  in  English  Imperial  Measure. 

U.  States.  Imperial.         Quart.  Pint.        Gill. 

1  Gallon  =  .83311  gal.,  or  3        0        2.66 
1  Quart    =  .83311  qt.,    or  1        2.66 

1  Pint      =  .83311  pt.,   or  3.33 

1  Gill       =  .83311  gill,  or  0.83 

5969.  Liquid   Measure   Expressed   in 

Litres. 

1  Gallon        =        3.785148  Litres 
1  Quart          =          9.46287  Decilitres 
iPint  =          4.73143         " 

1  Gill  =          1.18286         " 

5970.  Dry  Measure.  The  "Winchester 
bushel,  formerly  used  in  England,  contained 
2150.42  cubic  inches ;  this  was  superseded  in 
1826  by  the  Imperial  bushel  of  2218.192 
inches,  or  80  pounds  of  distilled  water  at  62° 
Fahr.,  and  the  barometer  at  30  inches.  In 
the  United  States,  the  "Winchester  bushel  of 
2150.42  inches  has  been  generally  adopted, 
which  holds  77.627413  pounds  of  distilled 
water  at  39.83°  Fahr.,  the  temperature  of  its 
maximum  density,  and  30  inches  barometric 
pressure.  In  New  York  the  bushel  is  de- 
clared to  contain  80  pounds  distilled  water  at 
its  maximum  density,  under  the  mean  pres- 
sure of  the  atmosphere  at  the  level  of  the 
sea.  This  would  make  the  New  York  bushel 
contain  2216.128  cubic  inches,  somewhat  less 
than  the  Imperial  bushel,  owing  to  the  differ- 
ent standard  of  temperature  of  the  water. 
The  "small  measure"  used  in  the  markets 
should  contain  2  quarts,  or  £  peck. 

Capacity  In 
Quarter.  Bushels.    Pecks.      Quarts.          pints.         Cubic  Indies. 

1  =  8  =  32  =  256  =  512  =  17203.36 
1  =    4  =    32  =    64  =    2150.42 
1  =      8  =     16  =       537.605 
1  =      2  =         67.200 
1  =         33.600 

5971.  Dry  Measure  expressed  in  Litres. 
1  Bushel        =        35.23661  Litres 
IPeck  =          8.80915      " 

1  Quart          =          1.10114      " 
IPint  =  .55057      " 

5972.  Relative  Value  of  United  States 
Dry  Measure  and  Imperial  Dry  Measure. 


United  States.        Imperial.  Bush. 

1  Quarter  =  .96945  quarter,  or  7 
1  Bushel  =  .96945  bushel,    or 


Imperial 


,  pints. 

3      0      .36 
3      1    6.04 

IPeck      =.96945  peck,       or  1    7.51 

1  Quart     =  .24236  gallon,    or  1.94 

IPint       =.96945  pint,        or  .97 

5973.  Weight  of  a  Barrel  of  Various 
Articles.      Some  things  which  are  sold  by 
weight  or  measure  are  also  sold  by  the  Barrel, 
the  quantity  being  different  for  different  arti- 
cles.    The  weights  are  here  given.     For  rice, 
GOO  pounds.     Flour,  196  pounds.     Powder,  25 
pounds.     Corn,  as  bought  and  sold  in  Ken- 
tucky, Tennessee,  <fcc.,  5  bushels   of  shelled 
corn.    As  bought  and  sold  at  New  Orleans,  a 
flour-barrel  full  of  ears.     Potatoes,  as  sold  in 
New  York,  a  barrel  contains  2£  bushels.  Pork, 
a  barrel  is  200  pounds,  distinguished  in  quality 
by  "clear,"   "mess,"  "prime."    A  barrel  of 
beef  is  tho  Fame  weight. 

5974.  Weight  of  a  Bushel  of  Various 
Commodities.     The  term  bushel  is  also  ap- 
plied to  a  certain  arbitrary  weight  varying 
with  different  articles.     "Wheat,  beans,  pota- 
toes, and  clover  seed,  GO  pounds  to  the  bushel. 
Corn,  rye,  flax-seed,  and  onions,  56  pounds. 


TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


517 


Corn  on  the  cob,  70  pounds.    Buckwheat,  52 
pounds.     Barley,  48  pounds.     Hemp  seed,  44 
pounds.     Timothy  seed,  45  pounds.     Castor 
beans,  46  pounds.     Oats,  35  pounds.    Bran, 
20  pounds.     Blue  grass  seed,  14  pounds. 

5979.  Decimal  Equi 
Parts  of 
Parts  of 
Decimals.           an  Inch. 
.03125      =       & 
.06250      =       A- 

yalents  of  Fractional 
an  Inch. 

Parts  o: 
Decimals.          an  Inch 
.53125       =      H 
.56250      =      A 

5975.    Lineal  or  Long  Measure.    The 

.09375      = 

1  O 

.59375      = 

ift 

32 

standard   of  linear  measurements,  by  which 

.12500      = 

1 

.62500      = 

=  ¥ 

all  measures  of  capacity  are  also  regulated,  is 
derived  from  the  length  of  a  pendulum  vibra- 

.15625     = 
.18750      = 

A 
X 

.65625      = 
.68750      = 

=    H 

ting  seconds  in  a  vacuum.    This,  in  the  lati- 

.21875     =      3^ 

.71875      = 

tude  of  London,  is  equal  to  39.1393  inches, 

.25000      =       4- 

.75000      =      £ 

and  in  the  City  Hall  of  New  York,  39.1012 

.28125      = 

A 

.78125      =      M 

inches. 

.31250      = 

.81250      =      -Ji 

By  scientific  persons,  parts  of  an  inch  are 

.34375      =      || 

.84375      =      f| 

represented  by  a  decimal  fraction,  but  for  me- 
chanical purposes  the  inch  is  divided  into  a 

.37500      =       } 
.40625      =      i* 

.87500      =       I 
.90625      =      H 

half,  quarters  and  eighths. 

.43750      = 

A 

.93750      =      j£ 

Mile.  Furlongs.   Kods.            Yards.                Feet.                 Inches. 

1  =  8  =  320  =  1760     =  5280    =  63360 

.46875      = 

r.nflOO       — 

% 

.96875      =      fi 

1  =    40  =    220    =    660    =    7920 

1     C.J     IfJJL    1QU 

.Ol/Vl/V            —              J 

5980.     Pendulum  Measure.     6  point:? 

i    =            G<j    —          ID  «5    —         iJO 

=  1  line.     12  lines  =  1  inch. 

I     =        3     =        36 

1       —  —            1  0 

5981.     Shoemakers'  Measures.    No.  1 

5976.       Long    Measure    Expressed    in 

is  4i  inches  iu  length,  and  every  succeeding 
number  is  J  inch.     There  are  28  divisions,  in 

Metres. 

Metres. 

two  series  of  numbers,  viz.:  from  1  to  13  am 

1  Mile        =  1609.30634  =  1.609  Kilometres 
1  Furlong  =   201.16329  =  2.012  Hectometres 

1  to  15. 
5982.    Square  or  Superficial  Measure. 

Acre    Roods    poles           Yards                   Feet                       liu-hes 

1  Rod        =       5.02908  =  5.029  Metres 
1  Yard      =         .91438  =  9.144  Decimetres 
1  Foot       =          .30479  =  3.048  Decimetres 

1  =  4  =  160  =  4,840    =  43,560    =  6,272,640 
1  =    40  =  1,210    =  10,890    =  1,568,160 
1  =       304-  =       2724-  =       39.204 

1  Inch       =          .02539  =  2.539  Centimetres 

1   = 

9    = 

1,296 

5977.    Compara- 

5978.     Value  of 

1    = 

144 

tive  Scale  of  Inches 
in  French  Metres. 

Inches  and  Feet  in 
French  Metres. 

5983.  Square  Measure  in  Square  Metres. 

1  Acre  =  4046.66700  sq.  metres  =  40.46667  Ares 

Inches.    Millimetres. 

T      h 

1  Rood  =  1011.66675                       — 

10.11667 

« 

100 

i     —     .00317 

IPole   == 

25.29167                         = 

25.29167  Centaree 

4 

j3g     =     .00475 

1  Yard  —          .oooua                        — 
1  Foot  =          .09289                        == 

.83609        " 
9.289    Milliares 

4      =     .00635 

1  Inch  =          .000645                      = 

.0645 

•• 

T  '  " 

: 

fi.     =     .00794 

5984.     Government   Land   Measure. 

• 

-    90 

£     =     .00952 

A  Township  —  36  sections,  each  a  mile  square. 

¥  " 

: 

ft     =     .01111 

A   Section  —  640  acres.     A  Quarter 

Section, 

k     =     .01269 

half  a  mile  square  —  160  acres.    An 

Eighth 

_! 

~   SO 

ft     =     .01428 

Section, 

half  a 

mile  long,  north  and  south, 

* 

|      =     .01586 

and  a  quarter 

of  a  mile  wide  —  80  acres.     A 

- 

H    =     -01745 

Sixteenth  Section,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  square 

£     =     .01904 

—  40  acres.    The  Sections  are  all  numbered 

* 

I  — 

if     =     .02063 

one  to  thirty-six,  commencing  at  the  northeast 

*    -- 

1     =     .02221 

corner,  thus: 

._ 

|£    =     .02379 

N  $t  1  N  E 

*       - 

: 

1     =     .02539 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

- 

-   GO 

2    =     .05079 

8  K 

-  50 

3    =    .07619 
4     =    .10159 
5-==    .12699 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

•  — 

-     ••--— 

6     =    .15239 

; 

7     =    .17779 

t       ' 

•  * 

8    =    .20319 

18 

17 

16* 

15 

14 

13 

-   40 

9     =    .22859 

i  - 

- 

10     ==    .25399 

• 

-  — 

11     =    .547939 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

i  .. 

:    30 

12     =    .30479 

*   . 

Feet. 
2     =    .60958 

.. 

: 

3    —    .91438 

30 

29 

28 

27 

26 

25 

• 

: 

4     =  1.21916 

-   ao 

5     =  1.52395 

Sr   - 

: 

6     =  1.82874 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

-  — 

7     =  2.13353 

i  - 

-    10 

8    =  2.43832 
90  ~  i  •  '  1  1 

The 

Sections  are  all  divided  in  quarters, 

*- 

: 

=  x.  74311 
10     =  3.04791 

which  are  named  by  the  cardinal  points,  as  in 
section  1.     The  quarters  are  divided  in  the 

•  - 

11      =  o.oO«<U 

same  wav. 

0     . 

H   o 

12     =  3.65750 

•School  Section. 

518  TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 

5985.     Decimal  Equivalents  of  the  Divisions  of  a  Foot. 


0 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

.08333 

.16666 

.25 

.33333 

.41666 

.5 

.58333 

.66666 

.75 

.83333 

.91666 

116 

.00521 

.08854 

.17187 

.25521 

.33854 

.42187 

.50521 

.58854 

.67187 

.75521 

.83854 

.92187 

i 

.01041 

.09374 

.17707 

.26041 

.34374 

.42707 

.51041 

.59374 

.67707 

.76041 

.84374  .92708 

l\ 

.01562 

.09895 

.18228 

.26562 

.34895 

.43228 

.51562 

.59895 

.68228 

.76562 

.84895 

.93229 

.02083 

.10416 

.18750 

.27083 

.35416 

.43759 

.52083 

.60416 

.68750 

.77083 

.85416 

.93750 

,1 

.02604 

.10937 

.19270 

.27604 

.35937 

.44270 

.52604 

.60937 

.69270 

.77604  .85937 

.94270 

| 

.03125 

.11458 

.19791 

.28125 

.36458 

.44791 

.53125 

.61458 

.69791 

.78125 

.86458 

.94791 

ft 

.03646 

.11979 

.20312 

.28646 

.36979 

.45312 

.53646 

.61979 

.70312 

.78646 

.86979 

.95312 

} 

.04166 

.12500 

.20832 

.29166 

.37500 

.45833 

.54166 

.62500 

.70832 

.79166 

.87500 

.95833 

A 

.04687 

.13020 

.21353 

.29687 

.38020 

.46354 

.54687 

.63020 

.71353 

.79687 

.88020 

.96354 

f 

.05208 

.13541 

.21874 

.30208 

.38541 

.46875 

.55208 

.63541 

.71874 

.80208 

.88541 

.96875 

-U 

.05729 

.14062 

.22395 

.30729 

.39062 

.47395 

.55729 

.64062 

.72395 

.80729 

.89062 

.97395 

f 

.06250 

.14583 

.22916 

.31250 

.39583 

.47916 

.56250 

.64583 

.72916 

.81250 

.89583 

.97916 

ri 

.06771 

.15104 

.23437 

.31771 

.40104 

.48437 

.56771 

.65104 

.73437 

.81771 

.90104 

.98437 

I 

.07292 

.15625 

.23958 

.32292 

.40625 

.48958 

.57292 

.65625 

.73958 

.82292 

.90625 

.98958 

tt 

.07813 

.16146 

.24479 

.32813 

.41146 

.49479 

.57813 

.66146 

.74479 

.82813 

.91146 

.99479 

To  use  the  above  table — suppose  it  is  re- 
quired to  find  what  decimal  of  a  foot  is  equiv- 
alent to  8  inches — look  for  the  column  headed 
8,  and  the  figures  at  the  top  of  that  column, 
.66666,  is  the  decimal  required.  Again,  to  find 
the  decimal  of  a  foot  equal  to  5f  inches,  look 
in  the  column  under  figure  5,  run  the  finger 
down  that  column  until  it  is  level  with  the 
£  (marked  on  the  left  side  of  the  table);  the 
figures  .47916  give  the  decimal  required. 

5986.  To  Find  the  Square  Feet  in 
Boards.  Multiply  the  decimal  in  the  table, 
corresponding  to  the  width  of  the  board,  by 
the  length  of  the  board  in  feet. 


Breadth 
in  Inches. 

Area  of  a 
Lineal  Foot. 

Breadth 
in  Inches. 

Area  of  a 
Lineal  Foot. 

i 

.0208 

6± 

.5208 

k 

.0417 

6i 

.5416 

1 

.0625 

6| 

.5625 

1 

.0834 

7 

.5833 

li 

.1042 

7i 

.6042 

Ik 

.125 

7i 

.625 

li 

.1459 

7| 

.6458 

2 

.1667 

8 

.6667 

2i 

.1875 

8f 

.6875 

2i 

.2084 

8i 

.7084 

2| 

.2292 

8i 

.7292 

3 

.25 

9 

.75 

3i 

.2708 

9i 

.7708 

3i 

.2916 

9i 

•7917 

3* 

.3125 

9f 

.8125 

4 

.3334 

10 

.8334 

4* 

.3542 

io± 

.8542 

4i 

.375 

10i 

.875 

44 

.3958 

10J 

.8959 

5 

.4167 

11 

.9167 

5i 

.4375 

Hi 

.9375 

5i 

.4583 

11* 

.9583 

5f 

.4792 

iif 

.9792 

6 

.5 

Example.     To  find  the  square  feet  in  a 
board  14  i  feet  long  and  9J  inches  wide. 

The  decimal  in  the  table  opposite  9J  inches 
is  .7708 

Multiply  by         14i 

30832 
7708 
3854 


Answer 
Or  about 


11.1766  feet, 
Hi  feet. 


5987.  To  Find  the  Square  Surface  or 
Area  of  a  Circle.     Square  the  radius  (half 
the  diameter),  and  multiply  that  by  3.14159; 
for  small  calculations  3|  is  nearly  the  same  as 
3.14159.    Thus,  to  find  the  area  of  a  circle 
whose  diameter  is  8  feet:   The  radius  is  4 
feet,  this  squared  is  16 ;  then  16  times  3.14159 
is  50.265  square  feet.     If  the  diameter  is  8 
inches,  the  area  would  be  50.265  square  inches. 

5988.  Table    Showing   the    Square 
Inches  Contained  in  a  Circle  from  Ten 
to  Seventy-Three  Inches  in  Diameter. 


Diameter 

Square 

Diameter 

Square 

of  Circle. 

Inches. 

of  Circle. 

Inches. 

10 

78.54 

42 

1388.59 

11 

95.03 

43 

1452.20 

12 

113.10 

44 

1520.53 

13 

132.73 

45 

1590.43 

14 

153.94 

46 

1661.91 

15 

176.71 

47 

1735.00 

16 

201.06 

48 

1809.56 

17 

226.98 

49 

1885.74 

18 

254.47 

50 

1963.50 

19 

283.54 

51 

2042.82 

20 

314.16 

52 

2123.72 

21 

346.36 

53 

2206.19 

22 

380.13 

54 

2290.23 

23 

415.47 

55 

2375.83 

24 

452.39 

56 

2463.00 

25 

490.88 

57 

2551.76 

26 

530.93 

58 

2642.00 

27 

572.56 

59 

2734.00 

28 

615.75 

60 

2827.44 

29 

660.20 

61 

2922.47 

30 

706.86 

62 

3019.00 

31 

754.77 

63 

3117.25 

32 

804.25 

64 

3217.00 

33 

855.30 

65 

3318.31 

34 

907.92 

66 

3421.20 

35 

962.00 

•     67 

3526.66 

36 

1017.88 

68 

3651.69 

37 

1075.20 

69 

3739.29 

38 

1134.00 

70 

3848.46 

39 

1194.60 

71 

3959.20 

40 

1256.64 

72 

4071.51 

41 

1320.26 

73 

4185.40 

The  area  may  also  be  obtained  by  multiply- 
ing the  square  of  the  diameter  by  .7854.    This 

method  is  deduced  from  the  first  one,  and  is 

founded  on  the  fact  that  the  square  of  any 

number  is  always  4  times  as  much   as  the 

square  of  half   the  number.      In   the    first 

TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


519 


method  the  radius  or  half  diameter  is  to  be 
squared,  and  multiplied  by  3.14159;  in  the 
second,  the  whole  diameter  is  squared,  "which 
Avill  result  in  just  4  times  as  much  as  the 
square  of  the  radius;  the  multiplier  must 
be  therefore  the  fourth  part  of  3.14159,  or 
.7854. 

5989.  To  Find  the  Area  of  a  Paral- 
lelogram or  Square.     Multiply  the  length 
of  one  side  by  the  perpendicular  height. 

5990.  To  Find  the  Area  of  a  Tri- 
angle.    Multiply  the  base  by  £  the  perpen- 
dicular height.     Or,  to  find  the  area  from  three 
rides  given,  from  the  half  sum  of  the  three 
rides  subtract  each  side  separately ;  multiply 
the  half  sum  and  the  three  remainders  to- 
gether, and  the  square  root  of  the  product 
will  be  the  area. 

5991.  To  Find  the  Area  of  a  Trape- 
zoid.     Multiply  the  sum  of  the  two  parallel 
sides  by  i  the  perpendicular  height. 

5992.  To  Find  the  Area  of  a  Sector 
of  a  Circle.     Multiply  the  radius  of  the  cir- 
cle by  4  the  arc  of  the  sector. 

5993.  To  Find  the  Area  of  a  Segment 
of  a  Circle.     Find  the  area  of  a  sector  of  a 
circle  having  the  same  arc,  and  deduct  the 
triangle  formed  between  the  two  radii  and  the 
chord  of  the  arc. 

5994.  Cloth  Measure,  used  for  measur- 
ing dry  goods. 

Yard.  Quarters.  Nails.  Inches. 

1         =         4         =         16         =         36 
1=4=9 
1        =          2* 

The  height  of  horses  is  measured   by  the 
"  hand"  of  4  inches. 

5995.  Gunter's  Chain.      This  is  the 
measure  generally  adopted  in  land  surveying, 
is  22  yards  in  length,  and  contains  100  links, 
each  link,   consequently  being    7.92    inches 
long.    The  length  of  the  chain  was  fixed  at 
22  yards,  because  a  square  whose  side  is  22 
yards  (1  chain)  contains  exactly -^  acre;  in 
other  words,  a  rectangular  plot  of  ground  1 
chain  in  width  and  10  chains  in  length  con- 
tains an  acre.     80  chains  make  1  mile    in 
length;    and,   consequently,   a    square    mile 
contains  640  acres.   For  surveying  and  laying 
out  plots  and  building  lots,  a  chain  of  50  feet, 
or  one  of  25  feet  (the  usual  frontage  of  a  lot) 
is  usually  employed  by  surveyors. 

5996.  Cubic  or  Solid  Measurement. 

Yard.  Feet.  Inches. 

1        =        27        =        46,656 

1         =  1,728 

5997.  American  Cord-Wood  Measure. 
Timber  is  measured  by  the  ton  of  50  cubic 
feet  of  round,  or  40  cubic  feet  of  hewn  tim- 
ber.     Cord-wood  is  measured  by  the  cord, 
which  consists  of  a  pile  8  lineal  feet  long  and 
4  feet  high ;  and,  as  the  wood  is  reckoned  to 
be  4  feet  in  length,  contains  128  cubic  feet. 
A  stick  of  cord- wood  should  measure  4  feet  4 
inches  from  end  to  end,  to  compensate  for  the 
slope  or  bevil  of  the  cut,  and  provide  for  an 
equivalent  of  4  feet  of  solid  wood.     The  con- 
tents of  each  lineal  foot  of  the  length  of  the 
pile  is  called  a  cord  foot,  and  contains  one- 
eighth  part  of  a  cord,  or  16  cubic  feet.    A 
New  York  load   of  wood  is   one-third  of  a 
cord. 

A  shipping  ton  contains  42  cubic  feet. 
Also,  the  cubic  foot  being  considered  unity, 


or  1,  a  cylinder  1  foot  in  diameter  and  1  foot 
in  length  =  .7854. 

A  sphere  1  foot  in  diameter  =  .5236. 

A  cone  1  foot  in  diameter  at  the  base  ^id 
1  foot  in  height  =  .2619. 

5998.  Cubic  Measure  in  Cubic  Metres. 
1  Yard        =          .76450  Cubic  Metres 

1   Foot         =      28.31486  Cubic   Decimetres 
1   Inch         =      16.38591  Cubic   Centimetres 

5999.  Table  of  Solid  Feet  reduced  to 

Solid  Inches. 


>   Feet.  Inches. 

Feet  Inches. 

Feet.  Inches. 

2=  3456 

35=  60480 

68=117504 

3   5184 

36   62208 

69  119232 

4   6912 

37   63936 

70  120960 

5   8640 

38   65664 

71  122688 

6  10368 

39   67392 

72  124416 

7  12096 

40   69120 

73  126144 

8  13824 

41   70848 

74  127872 

9  15552 

42   72576 

75  129600 

10  17280 

43   74304 

76  131328 

11  19008 

44   76032 

77  133056 

12  20736 

45   77760 

78  134784 

13  22464 

46   79488 

79  136512 

14  24192 

47   81216 

80  138240 

15  25920 

48   82944 

81  139968 

16  27648 

49   84672 

82  141696 

17  29376 

50   86400 

83  143424 

18  31104 

51   88128 

84  145152 

19  32832 

52   89956 

85  146880 

20  34560 

53   91584 

86  148608 

21  36288 

54   93312 

87  150336 

22  3&-16 

55   95040 

88  152064 

23  39744 

56   96768 

89  153792 

24  41472 

57   98496 

90  155520 

25  43200 

58  100224 

91  157248 

26  44928 

59  101952 

92  158976 

27  46656 

60  103680 

93  160704 

28  48384 

61  105408 

94  162432 

29  50112 

62  107136 

95  164160 

30  51840 

63  108864 

96  165888 

31  53568 

64  110592 

97  167616 

32  55296 

65  112320 

98  169344 

33  57024 

66  114048 

99  171072 

34  58752 

67  115776 

100  172800 

6000.  Measurement  of  Stone  and 

Brick-Work. 

1  Perch,  Maso 
Wk  feet  long, 
16  inches  wide. 
12   "   high, 

is'  or  Quarrymen's  Measure. 

_  (  22  cubic  feet.  To  be 
\   measured  in  wall. 

1(5  i  feet  long, 
18  inches  wide, 
12   "  _  high, 

_  (  24.75  cubic  feet.  To 
\   be  measured  in  pile. 

1  cubic  yard  =  3  feet  x  3  feet  X  3  feet  =  27 
cubic  feet.  The  cubic  yard  has  become  the 
standard  for  all  contract  work  of  late  years. 
Stone  walls  less  than  16  inches  thick  count 
as  if  16  inches  thick  to  mason ;  over  16  inches 
thick,  each  inch  additional  is  measured. 
Number  of  Bricks  required  in  Walls  for  each 
Square  Foot  of  Face  of  Wall. 

Thickness  of  Wall. 

24  inches 46 

28      "      52* 

12      "      22i    32      "      60 

16      "      30      33      "      67J 

20      "      37i    42      "      75 

Cubic  yard  =  600  bricks  in  wall. 
Perch  (22  cubic  feet)  =  500  bricks  in  wall. 
To  pave  1  sq.  yard  on  flat  requires  41  bricks. 
1          "         edge      "       68      " 


Thickness  of  Wall. 

4  inches... 


520 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


6001.     To  Find  the  Cubical  Contents 

the  reason  that  many  sticks  of  timber  taper 

of  a  Cylinder.    Find  the  area  of  the  circular 
cud,  as  directed  in  No.  5987,  and  then  multi- 

suddenly, and  others  are  unequal  in  diameter 
when  the  average  is  taken. 

ply  the  area  by  the  length  of  the  cylinder  ; 
the  product  will  be  the  cubical  content.     The 
same  denomination  of  measurement  must  be 

Diameter 
Inches. 

Contents. 
1  foot  long. 

Diameter 
Inches. 

Contents. 
1  foot  long. 

adhered  to  throughout  the  calculation,  as,  if 

4. 

.0872 

27.5 

4.12 

the  diameter  or  area  is  in  inches,  the  length 

5. 

.137 

28. 

4.28 

must  be  in  inches.    Thus  :  to  find  the  cubical 

6. 

.196 

28.5 

4.43 

content  of  a  cylinder  8  inches  in  diameter 

7. 

.267 

29 

4.59 

and  3  feet  long  ;  we  find  in  No.  5987  that  the 

7.5 

.31 

29.5 

4.75 

area  of  a  circle  8  inches  in  diameter  is  50.265 

8. 

.35 

30. 

4.91 

square  inches  ;  multiply  this  by  36  inches  (3 
Feet  reduced  to  inches,  the  same  denomination 

8.5 
9. 

.39 
.44 

30.5 
31. 

5.07 
5.24 

as  the  given  diameter),  and  the  product  is 

9.5 

.49 

31.5 

5.41 

1809.54  cubic  inches,  or  1 

foot,  81.54  cubic 

10. 

.55 

32. 

5.58 

inches. 

10.5 

.60 

32.5 

5.76 

6002.    Table  of  Spherical  Contents, 

11. 

.66 

33. 

5.94 

&c.     This  table  shows  the 

relative  proper- 

11.5 

.72 

33.5 

6.12 

tions    between    the    diameter,   surface,    and 

12. 

.79 

34. 

6.31 

capacity  (or  cubical  contents)  of  spheres. 

12.5 

.85 

34.5 

6.49 

Diameters. 

Surfaces. 

Capacities. 

13. 

.92 

35. 

6.68 

13.5 

.99 

35.5 

6.87 

1 

3.141 

.523 

14. 

1.07 

36. 

7.VT 

2 

12i567 

4.188 

14.5 

1.15 

36.5 

7.27 

3 

28.274 

14.137 

15. 

1.23 

37. 

7.47 

4 

50.265 

33.51 

15.5 

1.31 

37.5 

7.67 

5 

78.540 

65.45 

16. 

1.40 

38. 

7.88 

10 

314.159 

523.6 

16.5 

1.48 

38.5 

'     8.09 

15 

706.9 

1767.1 

17. 

1.58 

39. 

8.30 

20 

1256.6 

4189. 

17.5 

1.67 

39.5 

8.51 

25 

1963.5 

8181. 

18. 

1.77 

40. 

8.73 

30 

2827. 

14137. 

18.5 

1.87 

40.5 

8.95 

40 

5026. 

33510. 

19. 

1.97 

41. 

9.17 

6003.    To  Find  the  Cubical  Contents 
of  Spars  or  Other  Round  Timber.     If 

the  spar  or  timber  were  the  same  thickness 
through  its  entire  length,  the  diameter  of  all 
parts  would  bo  the  same,  and  one  measure- 
ment would  suffice    to    obtain    the    correct 
diameter;  its  cubical  contents  could  then  be 
found  in  the  same  way  as  for  a  cylinder  ;  but 
this  is  hardly  ever  the  case,  as  the  thickness 
or  diameter  is  different  in  every  part.     If  the 
spar  tapers  regularly  from  one  end  to  the 
other,  measure  the  diameter  at  each  end,  add 
the  two  measurements  together,  and  divide 
their  sum  by  2;  this  will  give  the  average 
diameter.     A  piece  of  timber  of  irregular 
thickness    must    be    measured    in    portions, 

19.5 
20. 
20.5 
21. 
21.5 
22. 
22.5 
23. 
23.5 
24. 
24.5 
25. 
25.5 
26. 
2G.5 
27. 

2.07 
2.18 
2.29 
2.40 
2.52 
2.G4 
2.76 
2.89 
3.11 
3.14 
3.27 
3.41 
3.55 
3.69 
3.83 
3.98 

42. 
43. 
44. 
45. 
46. 
47. 
48. 
49. 
50. 
51. 
52. 
53. 
54. 
55. 
56. 
57. 

9..61 
10.08 
10.555 
11.044 
11.541 
12.049 
12.566 
13.095 
13.635 
14.186 
14.747 
15.320 
15.904 
16.499 
17.104 
17.720 

each  portion  extending  as  far  as  the  tapering 
is  regular,  and  the  contents  of  the  different 

6004.    Capacity  of  Cubical  Boxes.    A 

box  1  foot  and  1  inch  each  way,  i.  e.,  length, 

portions  added  together  to 

get  the  contents 

breadth,  and  depth,  will  contain  1  standard 

of  the  whole.     Having  obtained  the  correct 

bushel. 

diameter  in 

inches,  look  for  it  in  the  next 

Feet.            Inches.                            Bushels. 

table,  and  opposite  it,  in  the  next  column  to 

1                     1                  =                  1 

the  right,  will  be  the  contents  in  feet  of  1 

1                  4i              =               2 

foot  of  timber  in  length  ;  multiply  this  by  the 

1                  6f              =                3 

length  of  the  timber  in  feet,  and  the  result 

1                  8i              =               4 

will  be  the  contents  of  the  whole. 

1                10^            =               5 

Thus,  to  find  the  contents  of  a  IG-foot  log 

1                 Hi        •;      an                 6 

whose  average  diameter  is 

found  to  be  13| 

2                   4=7 

(that  is,  13.5)  inches,  we  find  the  figures  on 

22                =               8 

the  next  right  hand  column  in  the  table  are 

23                =                9 

.99  ;  this  means  that  a  log  1 

foot  long  and  13£ 

2                 4                =              10 

inches  in  diameter  contains  .99  or  ^A  of  a 

6005.    Capacity  of  Boxes  of  Different 

cubic   foot. 

Multiply  this   .99    by    16,   the 

Dimensions.     A  box  4  feet  7  inches  long, 

length  of  the  log  in  feet,  and  we  get  15.84,  or 

and  2  feet  4  inches  in  width,  and  2  feet  4 

about  15£  cubic  feet,  which  is  the  contents  oi 

inches  in  depth,  will  contain  20  bushels.     The 

the  whole  log. 

dimensions  of  a  cylinder  containing  1  United 

About  10  per  cent,   should    be    deducted 

States  standard  bushel  are  185  inches  inside 

from  the  results  given  in 

the  table    when 

diameter,  and  8  inches  deep.   A  box  24  inches 

toll  is  charged  on  rafts  of 

spars  or  logs,  for 

by  16  inches  square,  and  28  inches  deep,  will 

TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


521 


contain  a  barrel,  5  bushels.  A  box  24 
inches  by  16  inches  square,  and  14  inches  deep, 
will  contain  a  half  barrel.  A  box  24  inches 
by  11.2  inches  square,  and  8  inches  deep,  will 
contain  1  bushel.  A  box  12  inches  by  11.2 
inches  square,  and  8  inches  deep,  will  contain 
£  bushel.  A  box  8  inches  by  8.4  inches 
square,  and  8  inches  deep,  will  contain  1  peck. 
A  box  8  inches  by  8  inches  square,  and  4.2 
inches  deep,  will  contain  1  gallon.  A  box  7 
inches  by  8  inches  square,  and  4.8  inches 

Table  Shoicing  the  Number  of  Feet 


deep,  will  contain  1  gallon.  A  box  4  inches 
by  4  inches  square,  and  4.2  inches  deep,  will 
contain  1  quart. 

6006.  To  Find  the  Amount  of  Lum- 
ber any  Log  will  Make.  Find  the  length 
of  the  log  in  the  left-hand  column  of  the  next 
Table ;  then  on  the  top  of  the  page  find  tho 
diameter,  and  under  the  same  will  bo  found 
the  quantity  of  lumber  the  log  will  make ;  cal- 
culated for  any  length  from  10  to  25  feet,  and 
for  any  diameter  from  12  to  44  inches. 

of  Inch-Board  in  a  Log  of  Timber. 


fl 

Diameter  in  Inches. 

nr* 

ss 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

13 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

~~w 

49 

61 

72 

89 

99 

116 

133 

150 

175 

190 

209 

235 

252 

287 

313 

342 

3G3 

11 

54 

67 

79 

93 

109 

127 

147 

165 

192 

209 

230 

259 

278 

315 

344 

377 

400 

12 

59 

73 

83 

107 

119 

139 

160 

180 

210 

228 

251 

283 

303 

344 

375 

411 

436 

13 

64 

79 

93 

116 

129 

150 

173 

195 

227 

247 

272 

306 

328 

373 

408 

445 

473 

14 

69 

85 

100 

125 

139 

1(52 

187 

210 

245 

266 

292 

330 

353 

401 

439 

479 

509 

15 

74 

91 

107 

134 

149 

173 

200 

225 

2G2 

285 

313 

353 

379 

430 

469 

514 

545 

1C 

79 

97 

114 

142 

159 

185 

213 

240 

280 

304 

334 

377 

404 

459 

500 

548 

582 

17 

84 

103 

122 

151 

168 

193 

227 

255 

297 

323 

355 

400 

429 

487 

531 

582 

618 

18 

89 

109 

129 

160 

178 

203 

240 

270 

315 

342 

376 

424 

454 

516 

562 

616 

654 

19 

93 

116 

136 

169 

183 

219 

253 

285 

332 

361 

397 

447 

480 

545 

594 

650 

692 

20 

98 

122 

143 

178 

193 

232 

267 

300 

350 

380 

418 

470 

505 

573 

625 

684 

728 

21 

103 

128 

150 

187 

208 

243 

280 

315 

368 

399 

439 

495 

530 

603 

656 

719 

764 

22 

108 

134 

157 

196 

218 

255 

293 

330 

385 

418 

4GO 

518 

555 

631 

688 

753 

800 

23 

113 

140 

164 

205 

228 

266 

307 

345 

403 

437 

480 

542 

571 

659 

719 

787 

837 

24 

118 

146 

172 

214 

238 

278 

320 

3GO 

420 

456 

501 

566 

603 

683 

750 

821 

873 

25 

123 

152 

179 

223 

248 

289 

333 

375 

438 

475 

",22 

589 

631 

717 

781 

856 

910 

fl 

Diameter  in  Inches. 

0^ 

3  a 

29 

30 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

10 

381 

411 

444 

4GO 

490 

500 

547 

577 

644 

661 

700 

752 

795 

840 

872 

925 

11 

419 

451 

488 

506 

539 

550 

602 

634 

708 

734 

770 

828 

874 

924 

959 

1017 

12 

457 

493 

532 

552 

588 

600 

657 

692 

772 

801 

840 

903 

954 

L007 

1046 

1110 

13 

495 

534 

576 

598 

637 

650 

712 

750 

836 

868 

910 

978 

1033 

1091 

1135 

1203 

14 

533 

575 

622 

644 

686 

700 

766 

807 

901 

934 

980 

1053 

1113 

L175 

1222 

1295 

15 

571 

616 

66G 

690 

735 

750 

821 

865 

965 

1001 

1050 

1129 

1192 

L259 

1309 

1388 

10 

609 

657 

710 

736 

784 

800 

876 

923 

1029 

1068 

1120 

1204 

1272 

L343 

1396 

1480 

17 

647 

698 

755 

782 

833 

850 

931 

980 

1094 

1134 

1190 

1279 

1351 

L427 

1484 

1573 

18 

685 

739 

799 

828 

882 

900 

985 

1038 

1158 

1201 

1260 

1354 

1431  ' 

L511 

1571 

1665 

19 

723 

780 

843 

874 

931 

950 

1040 

1096 

1222 

1268 

1330 

1430 

1510 

1595 

1658 

1758 

20 

761 

821 

888 

920 

980 

1000 

1095 

1152 

1287 

1335 

1400 

1505 

1590  1 

L679 

1745 

1850 

21 

800 

863 

932 

966 

1029 

1050 

1150 

1210 

1351 

1401 

1470 

1580 

1669  ] 

L763 

1833 

1943 

22 

838 

904 

976 

1012 

1078 

1100 

1204 

1268 

1415 

1468 

1540 

1655 

1749  ] 

L847 

1920 

2035 

23 

876 

945 

1021 

1058 

1127 

1150 

1259 

1322 

1480 

1535 

1610 

1730 

1828  ] 

L931 

2007 

2128 

24 

914 

986 

1065 

1104 

1176 

1200 

1314 

1380 

1544 

1601 

1680 

1806 

1908  i 

2015 

2094 

2220 

25 

952 

1027  1109 

1150 

1225 

1250 

1369 

1438 

1608 

1668 

1750 

1881 

1987  '< 

!099 

2182 

2313 

6007.    Measure  of  Time. 

Lunar 
Month.  Weeks.     Days.         Hnnra.  Minutes.  Seconds 

1  =  4  =  23  =  672  =  40,320  =  2419,200 

1  =    7  =  168  =  10,080  =    604,800 

1  =    24  =     1,440  =      86,400 

1  =         60  =        3,600 

1  =  60 

The  year  of  365  days  is  divided  into  12 
calendar  months,  7  of  which  have  31  days;  4 
have  30  days;  and  1,  February,  28  clays.  The 
solar  year  consists  of  365  days,  5  hours,  48 
minutes,  and  49  seconds;  this  excess  over 
365  days,  nearly  6  hours,  or  J  day,  is  allowed 
to  accumulate  through  each  4  years,  and  pro- 
vided for  every  fourth,  or  leap  year,  by  adding 
1  day  to  February ;  but  as  this  is  adding  a 
trifle  too  much,  every  400  years  one  leap  year 
is  omitted,  and  this  occurs  when  the  year  is 
divisible  by  400  without  remainder. 


In  the  year  1582,  the  fact  was  observed  by 
Pope  Gregory  XIII  that,  in  consequence  of 
this  discrepancy  not  having  been  taken  into 
account  since  the  commencement  of  tho  Ju- 
lian system  (see  No.  6064),  the  true  time 
exceeded  the  time  as  then  reckoned  by  10 
days ;  and  therefore  ordered  the  llth  of 
March  to  be  accounted  the  21st.  The  Pope's 
edict  was  generally  observed  by  the  nations 
subject  to  his  authority,  but  the  Protestant 
countries  continued  the  use  of  the  Julian 
reckoning.  This  gave  rise  to  the  two  modes 
of  computation  still  found  in  Europe,  called 
the  old  style  and  new  style.  Tho  latter  was 
adopted  in.  England  in  1752,  by  making  the 
1st  of  September  the  12th. 

Whenever  the  date  of  the  year  is  divisible 
by  4  without  remainder,  February  has  29 
days,  and  that  year  is  called  Bissextile. 


52; 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


6008.  Table  Showing1  the  Number  of 
Days  from  any  Date  in  One  Month  to 
the  Same  Date  in  any  Other  Month. 


From  To 

4 

i 

1 

I 
< 

£ 

a 

• 
g 

1-3 

f 

1 

£ 

j! 

0 

g 
fc 

1 

January. 

365   31 

59 

90 

120 

151  181 

212 

243 

273 

304;334 

Feby  
March.  .  . 

334365 
306337 

2H 
365 

59 
31 

H9 
61 

120;150  181  212 
92122  153'l84 

242  273  303 
214!  245  275 

April  

275  306  334  365 

80 

61 

91 

122153 

183  214  244 

May  J245  ;276  304  335  365 

31 

61 

92 

123 

153il84214 

June  

214 

245273304334365 

30 

61 

92 

122 

153  183 

July  

184 

215  243  274;304  335  365 

31 

62 

92 

123153 

August. 

153  184!212  243  2731304  334  365 

n 

61 

92122 

Sept  

122  153  181  212  242  273  303  334  365 

30 

61 

91 

October. 

92  123  151  182;212|243  273  304 

335  365 

31 

61 

Nov  
Dec  

61 

31 

92120.151il81 
62|  90.1211151 

212242273304334 
182  212  243  274  304 

365 
335 

30 

30.- 

The  geographical  or  nautical  mile,  accord- 
ing to  Brande,  is  equivalent  to  1.153  statute 
miles ;  this  would  give  2029.3  yards  to  the 
nautical  mile,  69.18  statute  miles  to  the  de- 
gree, and  about  24.905  miles  for  the  earth's 
equatorial  circumference.  According  to  one 
of,  the  very  best  authorities,  Chambers'  Ency- 
|  clopeedia,  the  nautical  mile  contains  2029 
i  yards;  on  this  basis,  a  degree  would  measure 
|  about  69.17  statute  miles,  and  the  earth's  cir- 
cumference about  24.901  statute  miles.  A 
great  circle  of  the  earth  is  an  imaginary  line 
or  belt  so  drawn  round  the  earth  as  to  divide 
it  into  two  equal  parts  or  hemispheres ;  the 
equator  and  the  ecliptic  are  great  circles.  In 
navigation,  sailors  measure  depth  of  sound- 
ings and  short  distances  by  the  fathom  of  6 


.,  7          -w-r  j  f.  ,-t        ~  -,        „    u*f»   ooici    DUULV    uiominjc^   uy    tiic     imiiurtt' 

Example:  How  many  days  from  the  2d  of  fe|t  and  the  caUe.lengtll  Ofy120  fathoms. 

ahvn  n  v\r     rn      T  nn      *)(\      t\\       d  n  mi  or  T        I  ,t\r\\r      f*vm  '  ** 


February  to  the  2d  of  August?  Look  for 
February  at  the  left  hand,  and  August  at  the 
top,  in  the  angle  is  181.  In  leap  year,  add 
one  day  if  February  be  included. 
6009.  Table  Showing  Difference 
Time  at  12  o'Clock  (Noon)  at  New  York. 

Boston 12.12  p.  M. 

Quebec 12.12 

Portland 12.15 

London 4.55 

Paris 5.05 

Eome 5.45 

Constantinople.  6.41 

Vienna 6.00 

St.  Petersburg..  6.57 
Pekin,  night. .  .12.40  A.  M. 

Geographical  or  Nautical  Mea- 
sure. 

Great  Circle.    Degrees.       Leagues.      Geo.  Miles. 
1     =    360     =    7200    =    21600 
1     =         20     =          60 
1     =  3 


601 1.     Nautical  Time.     The  hour  of  the 


New  York 12.00  N 

Buffalo 11.40  A 

Cincinnati 11.18 

Chicago 11.07 

St.  Louis 10.55 

San  Francisco. .  8.45 
New  Orleans. .  .10.56 

Washington 11.48 

Charleston 11.36 

Havana 11.25 

6010. 


nf 

tween  midnight  and  noon,  or  noon  and  mid- 

Uw 
.If. 

night,  are  divided  into  3  portions  of  8  bells 

•tt 
M. 

each,  the  duration  of  time  between  bells  being 

half  an  hour.     During  the  course  of  each  12 

hours,  the  same  number  of  strokes  of  the  bell 

will  necessarily  be  used  to  denote  three  differ- 

ent hours  or  periods  of  time. 

Bell.           Clock-Time.  Clock-Time.  Clock-Time. 

1  denotes  12.30          4.30            8.30 

M. 

2 

1.              5.                9. 

ja- 

3 

1.30          5.30            9.30 

4 

2.              6.              10. 

5 

2.30          6.30          10.30 

6 

3.              7.              11.. 

7 

3.30          7.30          11.30 

8 

4.              8.              12. 

6012.     Capacity  of  Cisterns,  &c. 


Diameter 
in  Feet 
and  Inches. 

Depth  in 
Feet  and  Inches. 

Number 
of  Wine 
Gallons. 

Number  of 
Barrels. 

No.  of 
Hhds. 

No.  of 
Gallons  in  10 
Inches  Depth. 

2  ft. 

2  ft. 

45 

1& 

M 

19 

2  ft.  6  in. 

2  ft.  6  in. 

90 

2f 

1ft 

30 

3  ft. 

3  ft. 

158 

5 

2i 

44 

3  ft.  6  in. 

3  ft.  6  in. 

252 

8 

4 

60 

4  ft. 

4  ft. 

374 

lltt 

5f§ 

78 

4  ft.  6  in. 

4  ft.  6  in. 

524 

16r 

m 

97 

5  ft. 

5  ft. 

732 

nH 

122 

5  ft.  6  in. 

5  ft.  6  in. 

976 

31 

15  h 

148 

6  ft. 

6  ft. 

1267 

40  | 

20  i 

176 

6  ft.  6  in. 

6  ft.  6  in. 

1614 

51  ££ 

85f* 

207 

7  ft. 

7  ft. 

2016 

64 

32 

240 

8  ft. 

8  ft. 

3004 

952-! 

47  4  a 

313 

8  ft.  6  in. 

8  ft.  6  in. 

3600 

114H 

353 

9  ft. 

9  ft. 

4276 

396 

9  ft.  6  in. 

9  ft.  6  in. 

5027 

159$J 

f  .,__ 

441 

10  ft. 

10  ft. 

5868 

186^1 

93  j» 

489 

11  ft. 

11  ft. 

7814 

248A 

124^ 

592 

12  ft. 

12  ft. 

10152 

328*1 

161  & 

705 

13  ft. 

13  ft. 

12901 

409  f 

S04ff 

827 

14  ft. 

14  ft. 

16111 

5Hg| 

255^ 

959 

15  ft. 

15  ft. 

19818 

629A 

314*4 

1101 

20  ft. 

20  ft. 

46992 

149lfi 

1958 

25  ft. 

25  ft. 

91770 

2913  i 

1456  f 

3059 

Example :  Suppose  you  desire  to  ascertain 
the  capacity  of  a  cistern  4  feet  6  inches  in 
diameter  and  4  feet  6  inches  in  depth.  Find 
the  diameter  in  the  left  hand  column,  and 
directly  opposite  you  will  see  that  the  cis- 
tern will  hold  524  gallons  of  231  cubic  inches 
each,  equal  to  16JS  barrels,  or  8|§  hogsheads. 


The  right  hand  column  shows  the  number  of 
gallons  contained  in  10  inches  of  depth.  By 
this  standard  you  may  easily  increase  or 
diminish  the  capacity  at  pleasure.  Thus,  if 
you  wish  the  above  cistern  to  hold  97  gallons 
more,  make  it  10  inches  deeper ;  or  194  gal- 
lons more,  20  inches  deeper. 


TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


523 


Latin  ] 

t 

HECTO 
KILO 
MYRIA 
refix  DECI 
CKNTI 

MTT.T.T 

100        " 
1000      " 
10000    " 
TJT  of  a  unit 

TW 

i         u 

6013.  Log  Lines.     1  knot  =  51.1625 
feet,  or  51   feet  If  -j-  inches.     1  fathom  = 
5.11625  feet,  or  5  feet  1£  +  inches,  estima- 
ting a  mile  at  6139J  feet,  and  using  a  30" 
glass.     If  a  28"  glass  is  used,  and  eight  divi- 
sions,   then  1  knot  =  47  feet   9  -f-  inches. 
1  fathom  =  5  feet  llf  inches.     The    line 
should  be  about  150  fathoms  long,  having  10 
fathoms  between  the  chip  and  first  knot  for 
stray  line.     Miles  X  .87  =  knots.     Knots  X 
1.15  =  miles.   Feet  per  minute  X  .01  =  knots 
per  hour.     1  knot  =  6082.66  feet;  1  statute 
mile  =  5280  feet. 

6014.  The     Decimal     System     of 
"Weights    and   Measures.      A  permissive 
law  has  already  been  passed  by  the  American 
aad  British  governments,  adopting  the  deci- 
mal system  as  applied  to  weights  and  mea- 
sures.    It  is  substantially  the  same  as  the 
French  decimal  system,  and  founded  on  units 
of  the  same  value.     The  multiples  and  sub- 
divisions of  the  different  units  are  the  same ; 
Greek   prefixes    being    used    to  denote    the 
multiples,  and  Latin  prefixes  the  fractional 
parts  of  the  units. 

The  Greek  prefix  DEKA  means  10     units 


The 


The  fundamental  unit  of  all  the  decimal 
weights  and  measures  is  the  METRE;  the 
standard  length  of  which  is  the  ioooloooo-  of  a 
quadrant  of  the  earth's  meridian,  equivalent 
to  39.371  inches.  The  unit  of  dry  and  liquid 
measures  of  capacity  is  the  LITRE,  which  is 
the  TfiW  of  a  cubic  metre,  and  contains 
61.028  cubic  inches.  These  figures  are  as 
exact  as  a  calculation  involving  twelve  places 
of  decimals  will  bring  it.  The  government 
standard,  adopted  as  sufficiently  correct  for 
all  practical  purposes,  is  61.022  cubic  inches ; 
this  is  based  on  a  metre  of  39.3685  inches, 
•which  would  make  the  gram  15.432  grains. 
The  GRAM  or  unit  of  weight  is  the  weight  of 
a  cubic  centimetre  (Tfoj-  of  a  metre)  of  water 
at  39.83°  Fahr.,  and  is  equivalent  to  15.434 
grains.  For  post-office  purposes,  the  k  ounce 
avoirdupois  is  declared  equivalent  to  15  grams. 
The  ARE,  or  unit  of  surface  measurement,  is 
the  i^tf  of  a  square  metre,  or  119.6  square 
yards.  This  system  of  weights  and  measures 
has  not  as  yet  come  into  general  use,  either  in 
America  or  England.  Its  advantages  are 
indisputably  great  for  facilitating  calculation 
as  well  as  establishing  uniform  international 
standards ;  but  its  adoption  necessarily  meets 
with  much  opposition,  as  it  overthrows  not 
only  all  the  old,  arbitrary  units  of  measure- 
ment, but  their  multiples  and  subdivisions 
also.  It  seems  so  natural  to  halve  and  quar- 
ter, and  count  by  the  dozen,  that  even  in  our 
decimal  currency  we  cannot  dispense  with 
the  half  and  quarter  dollar  and  eagle ;  in  fact, 
the  advantage  of  our  decimal  currency  can- 
not be  appreciated  to  its  full  extent  until  the 
custom  of  counting  by  the  dozen  is  entirely 
superseded  by  the  decade.  The  dozen,  12,  is 
divisible  by  2, 3,  4,  and  6 ;  the  decade,  10,  by  2 
and  5  only ;  and,  although  this  is  a  matter  of 
little  moment  as  far  as  regards  calculation,  it 
makes  a  great  difference  for  practical  subdi- 


vision. Old  rooted  customs  are  difficult  to 
eradicate,  but  there  is  no  doubt  that  the 
dozen,  half,  and  quarter,  those  stumbling- 
blocks  in  the  way  of  the  decimal  system,  will 
eventually  disappear  as  entirely  as  the  now 
totally  obsolete  eighth  and  sixteenth  of  a 
dollar,  the  Mexican  shilling  and  sixpence. 

6015.  Official  Standard  Metre.  The 
following  information  was  lately  given  by 
Mr.  Hilgard,  of  the  United  States  Coast  Sur- 
vey, to  the  Journal  of  the  Franklin  Institute  : 
"There  are,  in  the  custody  of  the  Treasury  De- 
partment, at  the  Office  of  "Weights  and  Mea- 
sures, the  following  authentic  copies  of  the 
standard  metre  and  kilogramme  of  France, 
viz. :  Metre  of  platinum,  compared  and  certi- 
fied by  Arago ;  metre  of  steel,  compared  and 
certified  by  Silbermann;  kilogramme  of  pla- 
tinum, compared  and  certified  by  Arago; 
kilogramme  of  brass  (gilt),  compared  and  cer- 
tified by  Silbermann.  The  length  of  the 
metre  is  39.3685  inches  of  the  United  States 
standard  scale,  and  the  kilogramme  is  15432.2 
grains,  or  2  pounds,  3  ounces,  119.7  grains 
avoirdupois.  There  is  also  another  metre, 
the  property  of  the  American  Philosophical 
Society,  which  is  one  of  the  twelve  original 
metres  made  by  the  French  Government,  and 
was  brought  to  this  country  by  Mr.  Hassler, 
the  originator  of  the  United  States  Coast 
Survey.  A  comparison  between  this  bar  and 
the  standard  of  France  at  the  Conservatory 
of  Arts  and  Trades  was  made  by  Dr.  F.  A.  P. 
Barnard,  with  the  result  that,  at  the  tempera- 
ture of  melting  ice,  there  is  no  appreciable 
difference,  by  the  most  delicate  means  of 
comparison,  between  the  platinum  standard 
of  the  Conservatory  and  this  iron  metre." 

The  above  standard  metre  of  39.3685  inches 
would  make  the  equatorial  circumference  of 
the  earth  measure  24.854  statute  miles.  Bes- 
sel's  calculations,  given  in  Chambers'  Ency- 
clopaedia, give  the  equatorial  circumference 
at  24.901  j*  miles.  If  this  measurement  be 
correct,  the  standard  metre  should  be  39.371 
inches.  This  difference,  however,  is  so  trifling 
that  it  would  not  be  appreciable  for  all  prac- 
tical purposes. 

6016.    Decimal  Measures  of  Length. 
Myriametre  =          10,000        metres. 

Kilometre  =  1,000        metres. 

Hectometre  =  100        metres. 

Dekametre  =  10        metres. 

Metre  =  1         metre. 

Decimetre  ^     metre. 

Centimetre  T^    metre. 

Millimetre  y^nr  metre. 

6017.     Value  of  Metric   Measures   of 
Length  in  Long  Measure. 

Miles.      Yds.     Ft.  Inches. 
Myriametre      =6        376      1       2 
Kilometre         =  1093       1       11 

Hectometre      =  109       1         1.1 

Dekametre       =  10      2        9.71 

Metre  =  10        3.371 

Decimetre         =  3.937 

Centimetre       =  .394 

For  general  purposes,  or  small  calculations, 
the  following  equivalents  will  be  found  suffi- 
ciently accurate  :  1  millimetre  is  equal  to  ^V 
inch ;  1  centimetre  is  equal  to  f-  inch ;  1  deci- 
metre is  equal  to  3  -fs  inches;  1  metre  is 
equal  to  39£  inches ;  &I&  metre  is  equal  to  36 
inches  or  1  yard. 


524 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


6018.  Value  of  Metres  in  Inches. 

Millimetre.  Metre.  Inches. 

1  =  .001  =  .03937 

2  =  .002  =  .07874 

3  =  .003  =  .11811 

4  =  .004  =  .15748 

5  =  .005  =  .19685 

6  =  .006  =  .23622 

7  =  .007  =  .27560 

8  =  .008  =  .31497 

9  =  .009  =  .35434 
Centimetre. 

1  =  .01  =          .3937 

2  =  .02  =          .7874 

3  =  .03  =  1.1811 

4  =  .64  =  1.5748 

5  =  .05  =  1.9685 

6  =  .06  =  2.3622 

7  =  .07  =  2.7559 

8  =  .08  =  3.1497 

9  =  .09  =  3.5434 
Decimetre. 

1  =  .1  =  3.9371 

2  =  .2  =  7.8742 

3  =  .3  =  11.8113 

4  =  .4  =  15.7484 

5  =  .5  =  19.6855 

6  =  .6  =  23.6226 

7  =  .7  =  27.5597 

8  =  .8  =  31.4968 

9  =  .9  =  35.4339 
6019.    Value  of  Metres  in  Feet. 


Decimetres. 

Feet. 

Metres.        Feet. 

1 

sm 

.328 

100 

2 

= 

.656 

3 

sa 

.984 

4 

s- 

1.312 

•  300 

5 

= 

1.640 

_SB. 

6 

— 

1.968 

7 

— 

2.297 

_ 

8 

— 

2.625 

9 

= 

2.953 

.52. 

Hetrei 

L 

•  250 

1 

3.281 

2 



6.562 

3 



9.843 

Ji. 

4 

— 

13.124 

5 



16.405 

- 

6 
7 

= 

19.686 
22.967 

-22. 

200 

8 

— 

26.248 

9 

= 

29.529 

~; 

Dekan 

letre.  Matr 
-t  f\ 

8. 
OO  Q1 

SO    '- 

1 

2 

=       10 
=      20 

—    ,32.  ol 
=    65.62 

•  150 

3 

=      30 

=    98.43 

~  : 

4 

=      40 

=  131.24 

411  '- 

5 

=      50 

=  164.05 

- 

6 

=      60 

=  196.86 

'- 

7 

=      70 

=  229.67 

'-_ 

8 

=      80 

=  262.48 

_so.^ 

•  100 

9 

=      90 

=  295.29 

: 

Hecto 

metre 

- 

1 

=  100 

=    328.1 

~~  : 

2 

=  200 

=    656.2 

tO    ; 

3 

==  300 

=    984.3 

: 

4 

=  400 

=  1312.4 

_  ; 

•    BO 

5 

=  500 

=  1640.5 

: 

6 

=  600 

=  1968.6 

3»  - 

7 

=  700 

=  2296.7 

8 

=  800 

=  2624.8 

— 

9 

=  900 

=  2952.9 

(i 

decimetres,  the  relative   scale  of   feet    will 
onsist  of  the  same  figures,  with  the  decimal 
)oint  removed  one  place  to  the  left,  to  divide 
)y  10,  the  millimetre  being  -^  decimetre. 
3020.    Decimal  Measures  of  Capacity. 


Names. 

Number  of 

Litres. 

Cubic  Measure. 

Kilolitre,  or  stere 
Hectolitre  

1,000 
100 
10 

1 

ion 

i  rtnn 

1  cubic  metre 
i*j)  cubic  metre 
10  cu.  decimetres 
1  cub.        " 
A,  cub.       " 
10  cu.  centimetre 
1  cu.  centimetre 

Dekalitre  

Litre 

Decilitre  

Centilitre  

Millilitre  

The  foregoing  scale  may  be  used  for  any 
other  portion  of  the  metrical  system ;  foi 
instance,  if  millimetres  be  used  instead  o 


The  following  are  approximate  values,  cor- 
rect enough  for  rough  calculations.  One 
millilitre  is  equal  to  15i  grain  measures  of 
water ;  one  centilitre  is  equal  to  154  grain 
measures,  or  3  fluid  drachms ;  one  decilitre  is 
iqual  to  1,540  grain  measures,  or  3£  fluid 
ounces;  one  litre  is  equal  to  15,406  grain 
measures,  or  2^  pints  ;  one  cubic  centimetre 
of  water  at  its  maximum  density  weighs  154 
grains,  and  is  $•  fluid  drachm. 

6021.  Value  of  Metric    Measures   of 
Capacity  in  U.  S.  Dry  Measure. 

Bush.    Peck.    Quart.      Pint. 
Kilolitre        =         28          1          4| 
Hectolitre     =  2          3          2          1.6 

Dekalitre      =  1          0          1.6 

Litre  =  1.816 

Decilitre        =  .181 

Centilitre      =  .018 

6022.  Value   of  Metric  Measures  of 
Capacity  in  U.  S.  Liquid  Measure. 

Gals.     Quarts.    Pints.        Giils. 
Kilolitre        =        264         0          1          1.6 
Hectolitre     =         26         1          1          1.36 
Dekalitre      =  221          0.136 

Litre  =  1          0          0.413 

Decilitre       =  .841 

Centilitre      =  .  .084 

6023.  Equivalent  of  Metric  Measures 
of  Capacity  in  U.  S.  Apothecaries 
Measure. 


Oal. 

Hectolitre  =    26 

Dekalitre  =      2 

Litre  = 

Decilitre  =    , 

Centilitre  = 


Pint. 

3 

5 
2 


Fluid      Fluid 

)unce.  Drachm.  Minims. 

5  5  20 
2  1  20 
1  6  32 
333 
2  42 


6024.  Value   of  Metric  Measures    of 
Capacity  in  Imperial  Dry  Measure. 

Bush.        Pecks.      Gals.          Pints. 
Kilolitre      =      27  2  0  0.800 

Hectolitre   =230  0.080 

Dekalitre     =  2  1.608 

Litre  =  1.760 

Decilitre      =  .176 

6025.  Value  of  Metric    Measures    of 
Capacity  in  Imperial  Liquid  Measure. 

Hhds.  Gals.  Qts.    Pts.       Gills. 

Kilolitre  =          3      31      0      0      3.5-00 

Hectolitre        =  22      0      0      0.320 

Dekalitre         =  201      2.432 

Litre  =  1      3.040 

Decilitre  =  -704 

6026.  Decimal  Measures  of  Surface. 


A 

Hectare..  10, 000  square  metres 

Are 100  square  metres 

Centare...         1  square  metre 


Kqutvalcntstn 
Square  Mcueute. 
Acres,  sq.  yds.     Pq.  ft 

metres  2    2279     5.76 


119     5.4 
1     1.76 


TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


525 


6027.     Decimal  "Weights. 

Names 

Number  of 
Grama. 

Wi-Uht      <>l       What 
quantity  of  Water  at 
maximum  density. 

Millier,  or  Touneau 
Quintal.     .  .  . 

1,000,000 
100,000 
10,000 
1,000 
100 
10 

1 

h 

iAo 

1  (100 

1  cub.  metre 
1  hectolitre 
10  litres 
1  litre 
1  decilitre 
10  cu.  cent're 
1  cu.  cent're 
^  cu.  cent're 
10  cu.  milm's 
1  cu.  milm'e 

M  yriagram  

Kilogram  or  kilo.. 
Hectogram     .  . 

Dek  agram  

Gram  ............ 

Decigram  

Centigram  

Milligram  

6028.  Equivalent  of  Metric  Weights 
in  Avoirdupois  Weight. 

Lbs.  Oz.  Dr. 

Miilier                =          2204          9  1.6 

Quintal               =             220           7  4.96 

Myriagram         =              22           0  11.69 

Kilogram            =                2  4.37 

Hectogram         =                            3  8.44 

Dekagram          =  5.64 

Gram                  =  .56 

6029.  Equivalent  of  Metric  Weights 

in  Troy  Weight. 

Lbs.        Oz.        Dwts.  Grains. 

Millier          =        2677        1          19  20. 

Quintal         =          267        8           11  23.6 

Myriagram  =            26        9            5  4.77 

Kilogram     =             282  12.48 

Hectogram  =                      34  6.05 

Dekagram    =                                  6  10.21 

Gram           =  15.43 

Decigram     =  1.54 

Centigram    =  .15 

6030.  Equivalent  of  Metric  Weights 
in  U.  S.  Apothecaries  Weight. 


Millier 

Quintal 

Myri  agram 

Kilogram 

Hectogram 

Dekagram 

Gram 

Decigram 


Lbs.        Oz.    Dr.  Scr.         Grs. 
2677       1       7      2       16. 
267       8       4      2        7.6 
26       9       2      0         4.77 
2810         0.48 
312         2.05 
2      1       14.21 
15.43 
1.54 

For  general  purposes  the  following  values 
are  sufficiently  correct:  1  milligram  is 
equal  to  -9V  grain ;  1  centigram  is  equal  to  £ 
grain;  1  decigram  is  equal  to  1£  grains;  1 
gram  is  equal  to  15£  grains;  1  dekagram 
is  equal  to  154  grains ;  1  hectogram  is 
equal  to  1,543  grains ;  1  kilogram  is  equal 
to  15,432  grains. 

6031.  English    Weights    and   Mea- 
sures.     Avoirdupois   and  Troy  weight  are 
exactly  the  same  as  used  in  the  United  States, 
and  the  tables  will  be  found  in  N"os.  5935,  &c. 
In  the  new  British  Pharmacopoeia,  the  weights 
are  expressed  in  pounds,  ounces,  and  grains, 
avoirdupois ;    thus   superseding   the   Apothe- 
caries weight  as  now  in  use  in  the  United 
States.     The  old  British  avoirdupois  drachm 
d1^  ounce  or  27.344  grains)  is  now  obsolete, 
except  in  weighing  silk.     The  new  drachm  is 
i  ounce. 

6032.  Imperial  Standard  Measure. 

O«l.   Quarts.  Pints.        F.  Oz.         F.  Dr.  Minims. 

8    =    160   =    1280  =  76.800 

2    =      40   =      320  =   19.200 

1     =      20   =      160  =     9.600 

1    =         8  =        480 

1  =          60 


The  standard  unit  of  this  measure  is  the 
gallon  which  is  declared  by  statute  to  contain 
10  pounds  avoirdupois  (70,000  Troy  grains)  of 
distill^fl  water  at  a  temperature  of  62°  Fabr., 
the  barometer  being  at  30  inches.  The  weight 
of  a  cubic  inch  of  water,  under  the  foregoing 
conditions,  is  252.458  grains  ;  the  capacities  of 
the  measures  are  therefore  as  follows  : 
Imperial  Gallon  =  277.274  Cubic  Inches. 

Quart        =        69.3185  " 

"        Pint          =        34.65925         " 

Fluid  Ounce  =          1.73296         " 

"     Drachm          =  .21662         " 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  there  is  a  slight 
difference  in  weight  between  the  English  and 
United  States  unit  of  capacity,  viz.:  The 
cubic  inch  of  water;  the  English  being 
weighed  at  62°  Fahr.,  and  the  United  States 
at  39.83°.  (See  No.  5935.) 
6033.  Imperial  Measure  Expressed  in 

Litres. 

1  Gallon  =  4.54339  Litres 

1  Quart  =  1.13585     " 

1  Pint  =  5.67925  Decilitres 

1  Fluid  Ounce        =  2.83962  Centilitres 

1     "      Drachm      =  3.54952  Millilitres 

1  Minim  =  .05916        " 

6034.    Measure  of  Capacity  for  all 
Liquids. 

Tun.    Pipes.  Hhds.     Bbl«.     Onions.      (Jnartn.        pints.        Gilln. 

1==    2=    4    =8  =  262      =  1008  =  2016  =  8064 

1  =    2    =  4  —  126      =    504  =  1008  =  4032 

1    =  2  =    63      =    252  =    504  ==  2016 

1  =    31  >i  =    126  =    252  =  1008 

1      =        4  =        8  =      32 

1  =        2  =        8 

1  =        4 

The  gallon  is  the  Imperial  measure  of 
277.274  cubic  inches  ;  and  the  gill  contains  5 
ounces  avoirdupois  of  water.  In  addition  to 
the  above  measures,  there  is  the  Tierce  of 
42  gallons,  and  the  Puncheon  of  84  gallons. 

6035.  Comparative  Value  of  Imperial 
Measure  and  U.  8.  Liquid  Measure. 

Impeiial.  Unlti-d  MateH.  Gall.   Qt.  Pints.    Gills. 

1  Gallon  =  1.20032  Gallons,  or  1     0     1  2.41 

1  Quart   =  1.20032  Quarts,   or        10  1.60 

1  Pint      =  1.20032  Pints,     or               1  0.80 

1  Gill       =  1.20032  Gills,       or  1.20 

6036.  Imperial  Liquid    Measure  Ex- 

pressed in  Litres. 
1  Hogshead     —     2.86234  Hectolitres 
1  Barrel  =     1.43117          " 

1  Gallon          =    4.54339  Litres 
1  Quart  =     1.13585      " 

1  Pint  =    5.67925  Decilitres 

1  Gill  =     1.41981         " 

6037.     Dry  or  Corn  Measure. 

Capacity  In 
Quarter.  Bimhels.     pecks.      GallAns.        pinto.  Cubic  Inches. 

1   =    8   =   32  =  64   =  512  =  17,745.536 

1=     4=     8=     64=    2,218.192 

1   =     2   =     16  =       554.548 

1   =       8  =       277.274 

1  =        34.659 

The  above  capacities  are  for  struck  measure  ; 
the  heaped  measures  contain  nearly  J  more, 
the  heaped  bushel  containing  2815s  cubic 
inches. 

6038.     Relative  Value  of  Imperial  Dry 
%  Measure  and  United  States  Dry  Mea- 


tlnitp<l State*.        Qr.  Bush,  peck*.  Qts.  Pints. 


sure. 


1  Quarter  =  1.03151  Quarters,  or  1 
1  Bushel  =  1.03151  Bushels,  or 
1  Peck  as  1.03151  Pecks,  or 
1  Gallon  =4.  12604  Quarts,  or 
IPint  —  1.03151  Pint,  or 


0  0.133 

1  0.016 
0   0.404 
4   0.252 

1.031 


526 
6039. 


TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


Relative   Value    of  Imperial   Measure    and 
Apothecaries  Measure. 


United    States    Standard 


Gal. 

Pint. 

Fl.  Oz. 

Fl.  Dr. 

Minims. 

1 

Imp. 

Gallon 

=  1.20032 

r.  s. 

Gallons, 

or 

1 

1 

9 

5 

7.66 

1 

n 

Pint 

=  1.20032 

a 

Pints, 

or 

1 

3 

1 

38.45 

1 

u 

Fluid  Ounce 

=     .960256 

tt 

Fluid  Ounces, 

or 

7 

40.92 

1 

11 

Fluid  Drachm 

=     .960256 

"     Fluid  Drachms,  or 

57.62 

1 

" 

Minim 

=     .960256 

" 

Minims, 

or 

.96 

6040.  Imperial  Dry  Measure  Expressed 

in  Litres. 

1  Quarter      =      2.90777  Hectolitres 
1  Bushel       =      3.63471  Dekalitres 
1  Peck          =      9.08677  Litres 
1  Gallon        =      4.54338      " 
1  Pint  =      5.67922  Decilitres 

6041.  The  English  Last  is  an  English 
measure  of  various  articles.    A  last  of  soap, 
ashes,  herrings,  and  some  other  articles,  is  2 
barrels.    A  last  of  corn  is  10  quarters.    A  last 
of  gun-powder,  24  barrels.    A  last  of  flax  or 
feathers,  1,700  pounds.    A  last  of  wool,  12 
sacks. 

6042.  The  Scotch  Pint.    A  Scotch  pint 
contains  105  cubic  inches,  and  is  equal  to  4 
English  pints.     21J  Scotch  pints  make  a  far- 
lot  of  wheat. 

6043.  English     Wood     Measures. 
Wood  is  sold  in  England  by  the  stack,  skid, 
quintal,  billet,  and  bundle.     A  stack  is  108 
solid  feet,   and  usually  piled   12  feet   long, 
3  feet  high,  and  3  feet  wide.     A  quintal  of 
wood  is  100  Ibs.     A  skid  is  a  round  bundle  of 
sticks,  4  feet  long.     A  one-notch  skid  girts  16 
inches.     A  two-notch   skid,   23  inches.      A 
three-notch   skid,   28  inches.     A    four-notch 
skid,  33  inches.     A  five-notch  skid,  38  inches. 
A  billet  of  wood  is  a  bundle  of  sticks  3  feet 
long,  and  girts  7,  10,  or  14  inches,  and  these 
bundles   sell  by  the   score   or  hundred.     A 
score  is  20,    and   comes  from  the  count  by 
tally,  or  marks.     Faggots  of  wood  are  bundles 
of  brush,  3  feet  long,  2  feet  round.     A  load  of 
faggots  is  50  bundles. 

6044.  English     Coinage.       English 
money  is  reckoned  in  pounds,  shillings,  pence 
and  farthings  thus  symboled  and  relatively 
valued. 


£. 

!. 

d. 

f« 

1 

=    20 

=     240     = 

960 

1 

=       12    = 

48 

1     

4 

The  farthing,  or  fourth  part  of  a  penny,  is 
always  written  in  the  form  of  the  fraction  of  a 
penny,  one  farthing  being  J  penny,  2  farthings 
\  penny,  <fcc.  The  standard  sovereign  is 
made  of  22  carats  pure  gold  and  2  carats 
copper  alloy.  The  coin  weighs  123.274  Troy 
grains;  and  the  standard  value  of  gold  is 
£3,  17,  10£  "$  Troy  ounce,  or  £46,  14,  6  38 
Troy  pound.  The  half-sovereign,  or  10  shil- 
ling gold  coin  is  of  the  same  standard,  and 
half  the  weight  and  value  of  the  sovereign. 
The  standard  shilling  is  composed  of  222 
parts  pure  -silver  alloyed  with  18  parts  copper. 
The  coin  weighs  87  ft  Troy  grains ;  and  the 
standard  value  is  £3,  6,  0  •$)  pound  troy; 
consequently  66  shillings  weigh  exactly  1 
pound  Troy.  The  crown,  or  5  shilling  piece, 
the  half-crown,  value  2s,  6d,  and  the  six 
pence,  are  of  the  same  standard  and  relative 
weights. 

6045.  French  Weights  and  Measures. 
There  are  two  systems  of  weights  in  use  in 


BI 

am.      Livre, 

=    2    = 

Once. 

32    = 

Gros. 

256 

Denier. 

=    768 

1    = 

16    = 

128 

=    384 

1    = 

8 

=      24 

1 

=        3 

1 

.8365  Grains 
20.0765      *" 
60.2296       " 
1.1023  Ounces 
1.1023  Pounds 
2.2046       " 


France;  the  systeme  usucl,  or  .old  Binary- 
and  the  more  modern  Decimal  system.  The 
former  is  still  the  most  used  in  buying  and 
selling,  but  the  decimal  system  is  already  em- 
ployed for  all  scientific  purposes. 

6046.  French  Binary  Weights.   These 
are  more  or  less  in  common  use  in  France, 
but  are  gradually  being  superseded  by  the 
decimal  system. 

French 
Gros.  Denier.  Grains. 

18,432 
9,216 
576 
72 
24 

6047.  French  Binary  Weights  Com- 
pared with  Avoirdupois  Weight.    French 
Apothecaries  weight  is  the  same  as  the  above, 
except  that  the  livre  contains  12  instead  of  16 
onces.     The  old  French  grain  was  equivalent 
to  .820  of  a  Troy  grain,  but  the  new  French 
grain  (of  1812)  is   equal   to   .8365228   grains 
Troy.     This  would  make  the  French  Binary 
weight,  as  compared  with  Avoirdupois  weight. 

Avoirdupois. 

1  French  Grain  = 

Denier  = 

Gros  = 

Once  = 

Livre  = 

Kilogramme   = 

6048.  French  Binary  Weights  Com- 
pared with  TJ.  S.  Apothecaries  Weight. 

Lbs.    Oz.  Drms.  Scruples.  Grains. 

1  French  Livre  (16  oz)  =  1  401  9.3941 

1       "          "    (12oz)  =  l  001  2.0456 

1       "  Once              =  100  1.8371 

1      "  Gros              =  10  0.2296 

1       "  Denier           =  1  0.0765 

1       "  Grain             =  .8365 

6049.  Value  of  French  Binary  ^eights 

in  Troy  Weight. 

Lb.    Oz.  Dwt.      Or. 

1  French  Livre  (16  oz.)  =141      5.184 
1       "  "     (12  oz.)  =100    21.888 

1       "       Once  =         1      0      1.824 

1       «       Gros  =  2     12.228 

1       "       Denier  =  20.076 

1       "       Grain  =  .8365 

6050.  Value  of  French  Binary  Weights 

in  Grams. 

1  French  Livre  (16  oz.)  =  4.9957  Hectograms 
1        "          "     (12  oz.)  =  3.7468 
1        "       Once  =  3.1223  Dekagrams 

1        "      Gros  =  3.9028  Grams. 

1        "      Denier  =  1.3009       " 

1        "      Grain  =    .0542       " 

6051.  Old  French  Linear  Measure. 
The  former  measures  of  length  in  France 
were  the 

Toise  =1.949     metres,  or  6.3945  feet 

Foot  (pied)  =   .32484       "    =  12.785   inches 
Inch(pouce)=   .02707       "    =   1.0654     " 
Line  (ligne)  or  ^  inch  =  .002256  metre 

The  metre  is  equal  to  3  ft.  11  lines  old 
French  measure. 


TABLES    OF    WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


527 


6052.  French.  Decimal  Weights  and 
Measures.  The  French  Gramme,  litre,  metre 
aiid  are,  are  precisely  the  same  as  in  the 
American  Decimal  system.  They  are  founded 
on  the  same  standard  unit,  the  metre;  and 
therefore  represent  respectively  the  same 
lengths,  weights  and  capacity.  The  measures 
of  capacity  in  France  are  multiples  and  divi- 
sions of  the  litre,  which  is  the  measure  occu- 


Sied  by  a  kilogram  (15434  Troy  grains)  of 
istilled  water  at  its  greatest  density.  It  ex- 
ceeds the  old  Paris  pinte  by  j^,  and  is  equal 
to  35  fluid  ounces  and  103  minims,  or  1.7608 
Imperial  pints,  or  61.028  English  cubic  inches. 
4i  litres  make  an  Imperial  gallon,  within 
about  12  /3.  The  following  table  will  show 
the  relations  between  the  Litre  and  the  Impe- 
rial gallon  of  277.2738  cubic  inches. 


Litres. 

Cubic  Inches. 

Gals. 

Imperial 
Pts.         FL?      Fl-3       Min. 

Tinnr 

Millilitre 

.061028 

16.9 

TOTT 

Centilitre 

.61028 

2 

49 

TV 

Decilitre 

6.1028 

3 

4 

10.36 

1 

Litre 

61.028 

1 

15 

1 

43.69 

10 

Dekalitre 

610.28 

2 

1 

12 

1 

16.9 

100 

Hectolitre 

6102.8 

22 

0 

1 

4 

49 

1000 

Kilolitre 

61028. 

220 

0 

16 

6 

40 

10000 

Myrialitre 

610280. 

2201 

(or  275i  bushels.) 

6053.  French  Money.  In  France 
money  is  reckoned  in  francs  and  centimes. 
The  centime  is  the  -^  part  of  a  franc,  5  cen- 
times being  .represented  by  a  sou ;  so  that  20 
sous  are  equivalent  to  a  franc.  The  same 
system  of  coinage  is  also  at  present  in  use  in 
Belgium,  Switzerland,  and  Italy. 

6054.    Foreign  Medicinal  Weights. 

The  following  are  divided  as  our  Apotheca- 
ries' weight :  The  pound  of  Austria  weighs 
6482.42  grains;  Bavaria,  5556.24;  Holland, 
5787.75;  Lubec,  5697.09;  Nuremberg  (German 
pound),  5522.96;  Poland,  5533.25;  Prussia, 
5113.99;  Sweden,  5498.01;  Yenice  (sottile), 
4649.17. 

The  division  of  the  following  differs  in  the 
scruple  being  divided  into  24  grains :  Bologna, 
5026.32;  Lucca,  5162.67;  Modena,  5254.61; 
Parma,  5062.35;  Portugal,  5312.23;  Eome, 
5233.25;  Spain,  5325.84;  Tuscany,  5240.49; 
Piedmont  (Turin),  5123.49.  The  Naples 
pound  contains  5490.63  Troy  grains;  the  ounce 


contains  10  drachms ;   the  scruple  20  grains. 

The  old  Paris  pound  was  divided  into  16 
ounces ;  the  scruple  into  24  grains.  The 
pound  by  which  drugs  are  weighed  in  Turkey 
is  the  Tchegy,  equal  to  4957  grains,  and  is 
divided  into  100  drachms,  each  drachm  into 
16  killos,  and  each  killo  into  4  grains. 

The  obolo  is  half  a  Spanish  scruple ;  3  sili- 
cua  make  1  obolo,  and  4  grains  a  silicua. 

The  commercial  pound  in  several  countries 
differs  from  the  pharmaceutical.  The  civil 
pound  of  Bavaria  and  mark  of  Yienna  are 
each  about  19J  avoirdupois  ounces.  That  of 
Holland  is  the  French  kilogram,  or  12 
grains  more  than  2  pounds  3J  ounces  avoir- 
dupois. The  mark  is  half  a  kilogram.  The 
Coburg  commercial  pound  is  nearly  18  ounces 
avoirdupois. 

The  unit  of  the  British  India  system  of 
weights  is  the  tola,  equal  to  180  Troy  grains. 
32  tolas  are  equal  to  1  pound  Troy.  The 
maund  is  equal  to  100  Troy  ounces. 


6055.     Foreign  Money,  Weights,  and  Measures,  Compared  with  American. 


MONEY. 

LENGTH. 

LIQUID. 

WEIGHT. 

Name 

Value  in 
American 

Name 
of 

Length 
in 

Name 

Contents 

Name 

Ounces 

Coin. 

Collars, 
Gold. 

Mea- 
sure. 

Inches, 
English. 

Measure. 

Inches. 

Weight. 

Avoird 

England 

Sovereign 

4.80 

Foot 

12 

Gallon 

277J 

ft,  Avoird. 

16. 

America 

Dollar 

1.00 

Foot 

12 

Gallon 

231 

Pound 

16. 

Austria 

Florin 

.484 

Foot 

12.45 

Eimer 

3452 

Pound 

19.76 

Denmark 

Dollar 

.53 

Foot 

12.35 

Anker 

2355 

Pound 

17.65 

France 

Franc 

.19 

Metre 

39.37 

Litre 

61.028 

Kilogran 

35.28 

Holland 

Florin 

.40 

Foot 

11.14 

Anker 

2331 

Pound 

35.28 

Portugal 

Milreis 

1.12 

Foot 

12.96 

Almude 

1040 

Pound 

16.19 

Prussia 

Dollar 

.70 

Foot 

12.36 

Ehner 

4200 

Pound 

16.51 

Russia 

Rouble 

.79  k 

Foot 

12 

Yeddras 

752 

Pound 

14.44 

Spain 

Dollar 

1.00 

Foot 

11.03 

Arroba 

978 

Pound 

16.23 

Sweden 

Foot 

12 

Eimer 

4794 

Pound 

15. 

The  rate  of  exchange  varies,  but  the  value  of  money  is  taken,  reckoning  silver  at  $1.20  per  ounce. 

6056.    Foreign  Measures. 

The  kanna  of  Sweden  =  nearly  2.62  litres, 
or  about  4  pints  12  ounces  imperial. 

The  pott  (half  kanne)  of  Denmark  =  .9653 
litre. 

The  arroba  of  Spain  =  16.073  litres. 

The  alrnude  of  Portugal  =  16.451  litres. 

The  barile  of  Naples  =  43.6216  litres ;  of 
Rome,  58.5416  litres ;  of  Tuscany,  45.584  litres. 

The  wedro  of  Russia  (10  stof  or  30  Russian 


pounds)  =  12.29  litres,  or  21  pints  12  ounces 
124  drachms  imperial. 

The  mass  of  Wurtemburg  =  1.537  litres, 
or  about  3  pints  14|  ounces  imperial. 

6057.  Roman  Money.  The  Romans, 
like  other  ancient  nations,  at  first  had  no 
coined  money,  but  either  exchanged  commo- 
dities with  one  another,  or  used  a  certain 
weight  of  uncoined  brass,  or  other  metal. 
Hence  the  names  which  indicated  certain 


528      TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 

pieces  of  money,  \vhen  coin  came  to  be  used,  i  was  divided  into  12  parts,  TJncise  (ounces). 


were  the  same  as  those  which  were  used  to 
indicate  weights. 

6058.  Roman  Brass  Coins.  The  first 
brass  coin  that  was  used  at  Rome  was  called 
As,  made  in  the  reign  of  Servius  Tullius ;  and 
being  stamped  with  the  heads  of  oxen,  sheep, 
swine,  &c.,  was  called  pecunia,  from  pecus. 


Hence  JE$,  brass,  is  often 
./Erarium,  for  treasury,  &c. 


ut  for  money; 
some  time  after- 


wards the  stamp  was  changed,  and  on  one 
side  it  bore  the  figure  of  Janus  ;  on  the 
other  the  beak  of  a  ship.  The  As  originally 
weighed  a  pound,  but  was  gradually  reduced, 
and  in  the  first  Punic  war,  Asses  were  coined 
of  only  2  ounces  in  weight;  in  the  second 
Punic  war,  of  only  1  ounce ;  and  in  the  year 
of  the  city  563,  of  only  half  an  ounce.  The 
other  brass  coins  were  the  Sernissis,  the 
Triens,  the  Quadrans  or  Teruncius,  and  the 
Sextans.  The  As,  in  value  of  our  money, 
about  1£  cents;  the  Semissis,  half  an  As; 
Triens,  one-third;  Quadrans,  or  Teruncius, 
one-fourth ;  Sextans,  one-sixth. 
6059.  Roman  Silver  Coins.  Silver  was 


first  coined  in  the  year  of  the  city  484,  five 
years  before  the  first  Punic  war ;  the  impres- 
sions upon  which  were  usually,  on  one  side, 
carriages  drawn  by  two  or  four  beasts,  and  on 
the  reverse,  the  head  of  Roma,  with  a  helmet. 
On  some  were  stamped  the  figure  of  Victory. 
The  coins  of  silver  were  the  Sestertius,  Quin- 
arius,  Denarius,  and  Centussis.  Sestertius, 
marked  L.L.S.  for  libra  libra  semis,  or  by 
abbreviation  H.  S.,  worth  2£  Asses,  or,  in  our 
money,  3|  cents;  Quinarius,  marked  V,  worth 
5  Asses,  7 2  cents ;  Denarius,  marked  X,  worth 
10  Asses,  15J  cents ;  Centussis,  worth  10 
Denarii,  nearly  $1.60. 

6060.  Roman  Gold  Coins.     Gold  coin 
was  first  struck  in  the  year  of  the  city  546,  in 
the  second  Punic  war,  and  called  Aurens.  The 
stamps  upon  it  were  chiefly  the  images  of  the 
Emperors.     The  Aureus,  at  first,  was  equal  in 
value  to  25  Denarii,  or  100  Sestertii ;  or,  in  our 
money,   to  $3.98.     Soon  afterwards  it  was 
debased,  and  under  the  later  Emperors  was 
worth  only  $3.70.    Accounts  were  kept  in 
Sestertii  and  Sestertia.     The  Sestertium  was 
not  a  coin,  but  a  shorter  expression  of  1000 
Sestertii,  or,  in  our  money,  about  $40.     "We 
find  also  mentioned  the  Libra,  containing  12 
ounces  of  silver,  worth  $15,  and  the  Talentum, 
worth    about    $965.      Besides    the    ordinary 
coins,  there  were  various  medals  struck  to 
commemorate    important    events,    properly 
called  Medallions;   for  what  we   commonly 
term  Roman  medals  were  their  current  money. 

6061.  Roman  Measures  of  Length. 
The  Roman  measures  of  length  or  distance 
were  feet,  cubits,  paces,  stadia,  and  miles. 

M.     Yds.      Ft.     In. 

Foot 0         0         0       12 

Cubit 0016 

Passus,  or  Pace 0        0        5        0 

Stadium,  or  Furlong 0    208        3        0 

8  Stadia,  or  1000  Paces 1        0        0        0 

The  Roman  Acre  contained  240  feet  in 
length,  and  120  in  breadth,  that  is,  28,800 
square  feet. 

6062.  Roman    Weights.      The    chief 
weight  among  the  Romans  was  the  As,  or 
Libra,  a  pound,  equal  in  English  Troy  weight 

to  10  ounces  18  dwt.  13  grains;  this  Libra  The  Homer  or  Cor 75 


and  these  Unciee  into  several  weights  of  lower 
denominations. 

6063.  Roman  Measures  of  Capacity. 
The  most  common  measure  of  capacity  was 
the  Amphora,  called  also  Quadrantal  or  Cadus, 
containing  nearly  9  English  gallons.     They 
had  also  a  measure  called  Congius,  equal  to  $ 
of  an  Amphora,  or  1£  gallon  English;   and 
another  called  Sextarius,  equal  to  £  of  the 
Congius,  or  about  1A  pints. 

6064.  Roman  Division  of  Time.   Rom- 
ulus is  said  to  have  divided  the  year  into  10 
months,  beginning  with  March ;  Ntvma  added 
the  other  2  mouths.      When  Julius   Ctesar 
became  master  of  the  State,  he  adjusted  the 
year  according  to  the  course  of  the  sun,  and 
assigned  to  each  month  the  number  of  days 
which  it  still  contains.     This  is  the  famous 
Julian  Tear,  which  continues  in  use  to  this  day 
in  all  Christian  countries,  without  any  varia- 
tion except  that  of  the  old  and  new  style, 
occasioned  by  Pope  Gregory,  A.  D.  1582.     The 
Romans  divided  their  months  into  three  parts, 
by  Calends,  Nones,  and  Ides.    The  1st  day 
was  called  the  Calends,  the  5th  day  the  Nones, 
and  the  13th  the  Ides ;  except  in  March,  May, 
Jul}',  and  October,  when  the  Nones  fell  on 
the  7th,  and  the  Ides  on  the  15th.    The  custom 
of  dividing  time  into  weeks  was  introduced 
under  the  Emperors,  being  derived  from  the 
Egyptians ;   and  the  days  of  the  week  were 
named  from  the  planets,  viz. :  Dies  Solis,  Sun- 
day ;  Lunse,  Monday ;  Martis,  Tuesday ;  Mer- 
curii,  Wednesday;  Jovis,  Thursday;  V.eneris, 
Friday;  Saturui,  Saturday.     In  marking  the 
days,   they  counted  backwards;    thus    they 
called  the  last-day  of  December,  Pridie  Calen- 
das  Januarii,  or  the  day  before  the  Calends  of 
January;  the  30th  day  they  called  the  third 
day  before  the  Calends  of  January ;  and  so  on 
through  the  year.     In  leap-year  the  24th  and 
25th  days  of  February  were  both  called  the  6th 
day  before  the  Calends  of  March,  and  hence 
this  year  is  called  Bissextilis.     The  day,  as 
with  us,  was  divided  into  12  hours,  and  lasted 
from  six  o'clock  in  the  morning  till  six  in  the 
evening.     The  night  was   divided  into  four 
watches,  each  consisting  of  three  hours.    The 
Romans  had  no  clocks  or  watches,  and  the 
first  dial  is  said  to  have  been  erected  in  Rome 
so  late  as  447  years  after  the  building  of  the 
city. 

6065.     Scriptural  Measure  of  Length. 


M. 
A  Finger 0 

A  Hand  breadth 0 

A  Span 0 

A  Cubit 0 

A  Fathom 0 

Ezekiel's  reed .0 

Do.  according  to  others  0 
The  Measuring  Line...  0 
A  Stadium  or  Furlong.  0 


Yds. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
2 
3 
3 
48 
243 


A  Sabbath-day's  Journey  1216 


In.  B.C. 
0  2^ 
3  li 

10  2i 
9  2i 

•H 
0 


11 

11 

6 

0 
0 
0 


The  Eastern  Mile 1    672 

A  Day's  Journey 33    288 

6066.     Scriptural  Liquid  Measure. 

Gals.    Qts.     Pts. 


The  Log 0 

The  Firkin  or  Metretes 0 

TheHin 1 

The  Bath...  7 


0} 

li 

0 

0* 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


529 


6067. 


Scriptural  Dry  Measure. 

Bush.    Pks.    Pts. 


The  Cab 0  0  2f 

The  Omer 0  0  5 

The  Seah 0  1  1 

The  Ephah 0  3  3i 

The  Lethech 4  0  0£ 

The  Homer 8  0  li 

6068.     Scriptural  Weights. 

Lbs.  Oz.  Dwta.  Gr. 

A  Shekel 0  0        9  2£ 

A  Maneh 2  3        6  10 

A  Talent 113  10        1  10 

6069.     Scriptural  Money. 

$          Cts. 

A  Gerah 2 

A  Zuzah 12 

A  Bekah 25 

A  Shekel  (Silver) 50 

Goldeu  Daric,  or  Dram 5        18 

A  Shekel  of  Gold 9        00 

A  Maueh  or  Mina 29        50 

A  Talent  of  Silver 1,707        00 

ATalent  of  Gold 27,320        00 

6070.  Jewish.  Method  of  Beckoning 
Time.      The   day,    reckoning  from   sunrise, 
aud  the  night,  reckoning  from  sunset,   were 
each  divided  into  12  equal  parts,  called  the 
1st,   2nd,   3rd,   4th,    &c.,    hours.       The    first 
watch  was  from  sunset  to  the  third  hour  of 
the  night.     The  second,  or  middle  watch,  was 
from  the  third  hour  to  the  sixth.     The  third 
watch,  or  cock-crowing,  was  from  the  sixth 
hour  to  the  ninth.     The  fourth,  or  morning 
watch,  was  from  the  ninth  hour  of  the  night 
to  sunrise. 

6071.  Russian   Money.      In    Russia, 
money  is  calculated  in  Roubles  and  Kopeks, 
the  silver  Rouble  consisting  of  100  Kopeks, 
and  equivalent  to  about  79£  cents  of   our 
money. 

6072.  Russian  Weights.    The  Russian 
pound  is  6317£  grains,  or  the  weight  of  25.019 
cubic  inches  of  water.     The  Pood,  about  36 
pounds,  13  ounces  avoirdupois. 

6073.  Russian  Lineal  Measure.     The 
Russian  foot  is  the  same  as  the  American. 

1  Werst  500    Sashens 

1  Sashen          =  3    Arsheens 

1  Arsheen        =  2£  Feet 

6074.  Russian  Measures  of  Capacity. 
The  Chetwert  is  equivalent  to  5  bushels  6£ 
gallons  imperial.     The  Tschetwerick,  5$  im- 
perial gallons.    10  Tschetwericki  make  1  Kuhl 
or  Sark. 

The  Wedro  consists  of  3|  wine  gallons,  and 
40  Wcjdroja  make  1  Fass. 

6075.  Austrian  Money  is  reckoned  in 
Florins    and    Kreutzers ;    the    Florin  being 
equivalent  to  about  48£  cents  American. 

20  Kreutzers        =        1    Zwanziger 
60         "  =1    Florin 

2  Florins  =        1    Thaler 
1  Ducat  =        4|  Florins 

6076.  Austrian  Weights.     The  Aus- 
trian pound  is  rather  less  than  14  pounds  avoir- 
dupois. 

1  Sanne  =          275  Pounds 

1  Pound  =  4Vindlinge 

1  Vindlinge      =  4  Unzen 

1  Unze  =  2  Loth 

6077.  Austrian  Lineal  Measure.   The 
Austrian  foot  measures  12£  inches ;  the  Nult 
is  equivalent  to  4$  miles. 


6078.  Austrian  Measures  of  Capaci- 
ty.    The  Mutlt  is  50|  imperial  bushels. 

1  Muth  =  30  Metz 

1  Metz  =  64  Moasel 

The  liquid  Mass  or  Kanne  is  about  24  im- 
perial pints,  or  1.415  litres. 

6079.  Roman  Money.  This  was  reckoned 
in  Paoli  and  Bajoclii,  the  latter  being  about 
equal  to  1  cent  American. 

1  Scudo  =  10  Paoli 

1  Paolo  =  10  Bajochi 

6080.  Prussian  Money.      The  Prus- 
sians count   their  money  in  Thaler s,  Silber- 
groschen and  Pfennings. 

1  Thaler  =        30  Silbergroschen 

1  Silbergroschen  =        12  Pfennings. 
The  Friedrich  d'or  is  equal  to  5  Thalers  20 
Silbergroschen. 

6081.  Prussian  Weights.     The  Prus- 
sian pound  is  16i  ounces  avoirdupois. 

.     1  Cwt.  k     =        110  Pounds 

1  Shipping  last  =        400  Pounds 

6082.  Prussian  Lineal  Measure.    The 
Prussian  foot  is  12J  inches  English. 

1  Ruthe          =        12    Feet 

1  Foot  =        12    Inches 

1  Inch  =        12    Linien 

1  Faden          =          6    Feet 

1  Mile  4|  Miles  English 

6083.  Prussian  Measures  of  Capacity. 
The  Scheffel  is  equal  to  1&  bushels. 

1  Wispel        =        24  Scheffel 
1  Scheffel      =        16  Metz 
The  Prussian  liquid  quart  is  equivalent  to 
1.145  litres,  or  nearly  2i  pints  American. 

6084.  Money  of  the  Netherlands  is 
reckoned  in  Guilders  and  Cents,  the  guilder 
(or  silver  florin)  being  about  41  cents  of  our 
money.      The  Ducat   is  equivalent  to  5.55 
guilders,  and  the  Stuiver  to  5  cents. 

6085.  Weights  Used  in  the  Nether- 
lands.    The  pound  is  1   pound    If  ounces 
avoirdupois. 

1  Pound  =  10  Lood 

1  Lood  =  10  Wigtj 

1  Wigtj  =  10  Korrels 

6086.  Lineal  Measure  of  the  Nether- 
lands.    The  ell  is  the  same  as  the  metre  of 
America. 

IRoede    =          10    Ells 

1  Ell         =  fa  Palm 

1  Palm     =          10    Duim 

1  Duim     =          10    Streep 

1  Myl        =      1000    Ells  or  £  mile  English 

6087.  Dry  Measure  of  the  Nether- 
lands.    The  Mudde  contains  a  little  more 
than  2f  bushels  imperial. 

1  Last  = 

1  Mudde        = 
1  Schepel      — 
1  Kop 
6088. 
lands, 
gallons. 

1  Yat  =          100  Kann 

1  Kann        =  10  Maajtes 

1  Maajte      =  10  Vingerh 

6089.  Portuguese  Money.  In  Portu- 
gal, money  is  reckoned  in  Reis.  For  the 
value  of  the  coins  see  No.  6055 

1  Yintem  =  20  Reis 

1  Crusado  =          400    " 

IMilrei  =        1000    " 

1  Conto  de  reis      =        1000  Milreis 


30  Mudden 
10  Schepel 
10  Kop 
10  Maajtes 
Liquid  Measure  of  the  Nether- 
The    Vat    contains    22 ^    imperial 


53O 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


6090.    Dutch  Weights  and  Measures. 

The  following  are  the  points  in  which  Hol- 
land differs  from  the  rest  of  the  Netherlands. 
Dutch.  English. 

.1  Foot  =11|  Inches 


1  Corn  last     =10  qrs.  5±  "Winchester  Bushels 
1  Aam  =41  Imperial  gallons 

1  Hoed  =  5  Chaldrons 

1  Freight  last=4000  Pounds. 
1  Ballast  last  =2000  Pounds 

6091.  Spanish  Money.    The  Dollar  of 
Spain  contains  20  Reals,  and  is  about  the  same 
value  as  the  American.     The  coins  used  in 
different    parts    of    Spain    are  various;    al- 
most every  Province  having  a  different  system 
of  coinage. 

6092.  Spanish  Weights.     The  Castil- 
ian  Marco,  is  7  ounces  3.16  dwts.  Troy. 

1  Marca ,  =        8  Onzas 

1  Onza  =        8  Ochaves 

1  Ochave  =      72  Granos 

The  quintal  is  equivalent  to  lOlf  pounds 

avoirdupois. 

1  Quintal  =        4  Arrobas 

1  Arroba  =      25  Libras 

1  Quintal  Macho     =        6  Arrobas 
Precious  stones  are  weighed  by  the  ounce 

of  431  k  Troy  grains. 

1  Ounce  =     140  Quilates 

1  Quilate  =        4  Granos 

6093.  Spanish  Lineal  Measure.    The 
Pie  equals  11£  inches,  and  the  Legua  4J  En- 
glish miles. 

1  Estado  2  Yaras 

1  Tara  =  3  Pies 

6094.  Spanish  Dry  Measure.     The 
Fanega  is  12£  imperial  gallons. 

1  Cahiz  =  12  Fanegas 
1  Fanega  =  12  Almudes 
1  Almude  =  4  Cuartillos 

6095.  Spanish  Liquid  Measure.    The 
Cantaro  or  Arroba  Mayor  contains  3  gallons 
3f  pints  imperial ;  the  Arroba  Menor  for  oil 
is  2  gallons  5i  pints  imperial. 

1  Cantaro  =  8  Azumbres 

1  Azumbra         =  4  Cuartillos 

1  Moyo  =          16  Cantaros 

IPipa  =          27        " 

1  Bota  =          30        " 

6096.  Swedish  Money.    The  Riksdaler 
"banco  is  worth  about  40  cents  of  our  money, 
and  is  divided  into  48  skillings. 

6097.  Swedish   Weights.    The  Skal 
pound  is  15  ounces  avoirdupois.    The  Schip 
pound  is  equivalent  to  400  skal  pounds.    The 
Mark,  used  in  weighing  gold,  consists  of  6 
oz.  16  dwt.  Troy. 

6098.  Swedish  Lineal  Measure.    The 
Swedish  Foot  is  the  same  as  ours. 

1  Faam  =  3    Alnar 

lAlnar  =  2    Feet 

1  Foot  =  2f  Verthum 

6099.  Swedish   Dry   Measure.     The 
Tonn  is  equivalent  to  4  imperial  bushels. 

1  Tonn  =  8  Quarts 

1  Quart  =  4  Kappar 

1      "  =  7  Cans 

1  Can  =  8  Quarrtiers 

6100.  Swedish  Liquid  Measure.    The 
Fuder  contains  2  pipes. 

1  Fuder  =  4  Oxhoofte 

1  Oxhoofte       =  3  Eimer 

1  Eimer  =          60  Stop 


6101.      Swiss    Money    is    reckoned    in 

Francs,  the  franc  being  subdivided  into  10 

Batzen.    The  value  of  the  franc  is  about  27 

cents.  This  is  the  old  system.  (See  No.  6053.) 

6102.     Swiss  Weights. 

1  Hundred-weight   =    50  Kilogrammes 

1  Kilogramme          =      2  Pounds. 

The  hundred-weight  is  equivalent  to  110J 
)ounds  avoirdupois ;  the  pound  is  therefore 
ibout  17J  ounces  avoirdupois. 

6103.  Swiss  Lineal  Measure.      The 
Helvetian  foot  is  equal  to  11£5  inches  En- 

ish. 

1  Stab' or  Staff        =        2  Ells 
1  Ell  =2  Feet 

16,000  Feet  =        1  Hour  or  Mile 

The  Swiss  mile  is  consequently  a  trifle  over 
3  English  miles. 

6104.  Swiss  Dry  Measure.     The  Mat- 
ter is  about  4  bushels  1  gallon  Imperial  mea- 
sure. 

1  Malter  =  10  Viertel 

1  Yiertel  =  10  Immir 

6105.  Swiss  Liquid   Measure.     The 
Swiss  Ohm  contains  33  Imperial  gallons. 

1  Ohm  =  100  Maas. 

6106.  Turkish  Money.      In   Turkey, 
money  is  reckond  by  the  Piaster,  22  of  which 
are  equivalent  to  $1.00. 

1  Sequin  =  100  Piasters 

1  Piaster  =  40  Paras 

1  Para  =  3  Aspers 

1  Piaster  (grush)     =  100  Aspers. 

6107.  Turkish  Weights.    The  Turkish 
Chequi  is  11£  ounces  avoirdupois. 

1  Cantaro  =  44  Ok'as 

1  Batman  =  6  Okas 

1  Oka  =  4  Chequi 

1  Chequi  =          100  Drachmas. 

6108.  Turkish  Lineal  Measure.    The 
Turks  use,  for  measuring  length,   the  large 
pik  halebi,  or  27  fa  inches  ;  and  the  small  pik 
andassa  of  27  j^  inches. 

6109.  Turkish  Measures  of  Capacity. 
The  dry  Killoio  contains  7£  imperial  gallons ; 
the  Fortin,   4    killows.      A    killow    of  rice 
should  weigh  10  okas.      The  liquid   almud 
contains  If-  imperial  gallons. 

6110.  Chinese  Money.      The   Chinese 
Tael  is  $1.56. 

1  Tael  =  10  Mace 

1  Mace  =  10  Candarin 

1  Candarin        =  10  Cash 

6111.  Chinese  Weights.     The  Catty  is 
1J  pounds  avoirdupois. 

1  Pecul  =  100  Cattys 

1  Catty  =  16  Taels 

1  Tael  =  10  Mazas 

1  Maza  =  10  Candarins 

1  Candarin      =  10  Qash. 

6112.  East  Indian  Money.     In  Hindo- 
stan,  money  is  reckoned  in  Rupees,  Annas,  and 
Pice,  the  Rupee  being  about  45  cents  of  our 
money. 

1  Rupee  =  8  Annas 

1  Anna  =          12  Pice 

10,000  Eupees          =  1  Lakh 

6113.  Mexican  Money.     The  Mexican 

fold  dollar  is  worth  about  96  cents  United 
tates    coin;    the    Mexican    silver   dollar  is 
reckoned  equal  to  the  United    States   gold 
dollar. 

1  Doubloon  =  16  Dollars 

1  Dollar  =  8  Reals. 


TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


531 


6114.  Monte- Video  Money.    The  Dol- 
lar or   Peso   Corriente  is  equal  to  80  cents 
United  States  coin. 

1  Dollar     =     8  Eeales    =     100  Centesimos 

6115.  Brazilian    Money.      In   Brazil, 
money  is  reckoned  in  Beis,  4000  of  which  are 
equal  to  £1  sterling,  or  $4.84  United  States 
coin. 

1  Milreis  =  1000  Keis 

6116.  Brazilian  Lineal  Measure.   The 
Brazilian   Pe   or   Foot   is   the    same    as    the 
English  foot ;  the  Palma  is  equivalent  to  9-J 
English  inches.     10  Palmas  equal  1  Braca  or 
2f  English  yards.     The   Braca  is  also  sub- 
divided into  2   Varas  and  3J  Covados.     The 
Legoa  or  mile  is  about  4f  English  miles. 

6117.  Brazilian  Weights.    The  weights 
in  ordinary  use   are  as  follows,  the  Quintal 


being  equal  to  91 3  pounds  avoirdupois. 
1  Quintal  =  4  Arrobas 

1  Arroba  =          32  Arratels 

Gold  and  silver  are  weighed  by  the  Marco 
of  7  ounces  7f  dwts  Troy. 

1  Marco  =  8  Oncas 

1  Onca  =  8  Oitavas 

1  Oitava  =          72  Granos 

Precious  stones  are  sold  by  the  Quilate, 
equal  to  4£$  dwts.  Troy. 

1  Oitava  =  3  Escrupulos 

1  Escrupulo      =  3  Quilates 

1  Quilate  =  4  Granos 

6118.  Brazilian  Dry  Measure.  The 
Brazilian  Mayo  is  equivalent  to  22  i  imperial 
bushels. 

1  Mayo  =  15  Fanegas 

1  Fanega         =  4  Alqueires 


6119.     Decimal  Approximations  for  Facilitating  Calculations. 


Lineal  feet  multiplied  by        .00019 

am 

miles. 

"    yards                 "             .000568 

= 

>t 

Square  inches 
"      feet 

.007 
.111 

= 

square  feet, 
square  yards. 

"     yards 

.0002067 

= 

acres. 

Circular  inches 

.00546 

= 

square  feet. 

Cylindrical  inches 

.0004546 

an 

cubic  feet. 

"           feet 

.02909 

= 

cubic  yards. 

Cubic  inches 

V00058 

= 

cubic  feet. 

"    feet 

it      a 

.03704 
6.2321 

I 

cubic  yards, 
imperial  gallons. 

"    inches 

.003607 

= 

it             ti 

Bushels 

.0476 

= 

cubic  yards. 

H 

1.284 

=: 

cubic  feet. 

it 

2218.2 

— 

cubic  inches. 

Cubic  feet 

.779 

= 

bushels. 

Cubic  inches 

.00045 

z= 

bushels. 

Pounds 

.009 

= 

hundredweights. 

Pounds 

.00045 

= 

tons 

Cylindrical  feet 

4.895 

= 

imperial  gallons. 

"            inches 

.002832 

-tf 

it        ~    a 

Cubic  inches 

.263 

= 

pounds  of  cast  iron. 

H 

.281 

= 

'          wrought  do. 

It 

.283 

= 

'          steel. 

tt 

.3225 

= 

copper. 

II 

.3037 

= 

brass. 

it 

.26 

— 

zinc. 

it 

.4103 

— 

lead. 

it 

.2636 



tin. 

It 

.4908 

= 

mercury. 

Cylindrical  inches 

.2065 

= 

cast  iron. 

.2168 

= 

wrought  iron. 

.2223 

= 

steel. 

.2533 

= 

copper. 

.2385 

= 

brass. 

.2042 

= 

zinc. 

.3223 

— 

lead. 

.207 

_r= 

tin. 

.3854 

= 

mercury. 

6120.  Memoranda   Connected  with 
"Water.    1  cubic  foot  of  water  =  62.4  pounds. 
1  cubic  inch  =  .036  pounds.     1   gallon  im- 
perial =  10  pounds;   or  =  0.16  cubic  feet. 
1  cubic  foot  of  water  =  6.2321  imperial  gal- 
lons;   or,    approximately   =   6J   gallons.      1 
cwt.  of  water  =  1.8  cubic  feet  =  11.2  gallons. 
1  ton  of  water  =  35.9  cubic  feet  =  224  gal- 
lons.    Cubic  feet  of  water   X   .557  =  cwt. 
approximately.     Cubic  feet  of  water  x  .028 
=  tons  approximately.      1  cubic  foot  of  sea 
water  =  64.14  pounds.     "Weight  of  sea  water 
=  weight  of  fresh  water  X  1.028. 

6121.  Pressure  of  the  Atmosphere. 
In  engineering,  the  common  pressure  of  the 


atmosphere,  14.6  pounds  to  the  square  inch, 
is  taken  as  a  standard  of  that  exerted  by 
other  elastic  fluids.  Thus,  steam,  or  air  con- 
densed so  as  to  exert  a  pressure  of  30  pounds 
to  the  square  inch,  is  said,  in  round  numbers, 
to  be  of  2  atmospheres ;  at  45  pounds  to  the 
inch,  3  atmospheres,  <fec. 

6122.  Memoranda  Connected  with 
Light.  Telocity  of  light  192,000  miles  per 
second,  nearly.  Decomposition  of  light :  The 
seven  prismatic  colors  of  a  ray  of  light  are 
violet,  indigo,  blue,  green,  yellow,  orange, 
red.  Violet  is  the  maximum  chemical  or 
actinic  color ;  yellow  the  maximum  illumina- 
ting color,  and  red  the  heat  color. 


532 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


6123.     Force  of  the  Wind. 


Miles 
per 
Hour. 

Feet 
per 
Minute. 

Feet 
per 
Second. 

Force  in 
Ibs.  per 
Sq.  Foot 

Description. 

1 

88 

1.47 

.005 

Hardly  perceptible. 

2 
3 

176 
264 

2.93 
4.4 

.020) 
.044  } 

Just  perceptible. 

4 

5 

352 
440 

5.87 
7.33 

.079) 
.123| 

Gentle  breeze. 

10 
15 

880 
1320 

14.67 
22. 

.492) 
1.107  } 

Pleasant  breeze. 

20 
25 

1760 
2200 

29.3 
36.6 

1.970  ) 
3.067  ) 

Brisk  gale. 

30 
85 

2640 
3080 

44. 

51.3 

4.429  ) 
6.027  ) 

High  wind. 

40 
45 

3520 
3960 

58.6 
66. 

7.870) 
9.900  ( 

Very  nigh  wind. 

60 

4400 

73.3 

12.304 

Storm. 

60 

70 

5280 
6160 

88. 
102.7 

17.733) 
24.153} 

Great  storm. 

80 
100 

7040 
8800 

117.3 
146.6 

31.490  ) 
49.200) 

Hurricane. 

6124.  Velocity  of  Sound.  In  air,  1.142 
feet  per  second.  In  water,  4,900  feet. 
Through  iron,  17,500  feet.  Through  copper, 
10,378  feet.  Through  wood,  12,000  to  16,000 
feet. 

Distant  sounds  may  be  heard  on  a  still 
day :  Human  voice,  150  yards.  Eifle  5,300 
yards.  Military  band,  5,200  yards.  Cannon 
35,000  yards. 

6125.  Heat-conducting  Power  of 
Building  Materials.  Conducting  power  of 
substances,  slate  being  1000. 


Slate 1000 

Lead 5210 

Flagstone 1110 

Portland  stone. . .  750 


Chalk 564 

Asphaltum 451 

Oak 336 

Lath  and  plaster.. 255 
Cement..!  ..200 


Brick 600  to  730 

Fire-brick 620 

6126.  Properties  of  the  Circle.   Diam- 
eter X  3.14159  =  circumference.    Diameter 
X  .8862  =  side  of  an  equal  square.    Diameter 
X  .7071  =  side  of  an  inscribed  square.     Ka- 
dius  squared,   X   3.14159  =  area  of  circle. 
Diameter  squared,  X  .7854  =  area  of  circle. 
Eadius    X   6.28318  =  circumference.      Cir- 
cumference -H  3.14159  =  diameter.     Circum- 
ference ^3^5^/ar^~~of~circTeT    Diameter  = 
1.128-v/area  of  circle. 

6127.  To  Determine  the  Weight  of 
Live  Cattle.     Measure  in  inches  the  girth 
round  the  breast,  just  behind  the  shoulder- 
blade,  and  the  length  of  the  back  from  the 
tail  to   the  forepart  of   the    shoulder-blade. 
Multiply  the  girth  by  the  length,  and  divide 
by  144.    If  the  girth  is  less  than  3  feet,  mul- 
tiply the  quotient  by  11 ;   if  between  3  feet 
and  5  feet,  multiply  by  16  ;  if  between  5  feet 
and  7  feet,  multiply  by  23  ;  if  between  7  feet 
and  9  feet,  multiply  by  31.     If  the  animal  is 
lean,  deduct  ^  from  the  result.     Or:   Take 
the  girth  and  length  in  feet,  multiply  the 
square  of  the  girth  by  the  length,  and  multiply 
the  product  by  3.36.     The  result  will  be  the 
answer  in  pounds.    The  live  weight,  multiplied 
by  .605,  gives  a  near  approximation  to  the  net 
weight. 

6128.  To  Measure  Corn  in  the  Crib. 
Corn  is  generally  put  up  in  cribs  made  of 
rails,  but  the  rule  will  apply  to  a  crib  of  any 
size  or  kind.     Two  cubic  feet  of  good,  sound, 
dry  corn  in  the  ear,  will  make  a  bushel  of 
shelled  corn.     To  get,  then,  the  quantity  of 
shelled  corn  in  a  crib  of  corn  in  the  ear,  mea- 


sure the  length,  breadth,  and  height  of  the 
crib,  inside  of  the  rail;  multiply  the  length 
by  the  breadth,  and  the  product  by  the  height; 
then  divide  the  result  by  2,  and  you  have  the 
number  of  bushels  of  shelled  corn  in  the  crib. 
In  measuring  the  height,  of  course  the  height 
of  the  corn  is  intended.  And  there  will  be 
found  to  be  a  difference  in  measuring  com  in 
this  mode  between  fall  and  spring,  because  it 
shrinks  very  much  in  the  winter  and  spring, 
and  settles  down. 

6129.  Percentage  of  Pork  to  Live 
Weight.      The    following  table  shows  the 
proportion  of  pork  to  live  weight  of  fat  swine  : 

Live  Weight  in  Per  Cent. 

Stones  of  14  pounds.  of  Pork. 

Above  40  stones 87  to  88 

From  35  to  40  stones 84  to  86 

"     30  to  35       '      83  to  84 

"     25to30       '      81to82 

"     20to25       '      80 

"     15  to  20       '      77  to  78 

Underl5       '      75  to  77 

6130.  Measures  for  Housekeepers. 
"Wheat  flour 1  pound  is  1  quart. 


Indian  meal 1 

Butter  when  soft 1 

Loaf  sugar,  broken..  1 
"Whito  sugar,  powd..  1 


2oz. 


1  oz. 
2oz. 


Best  brown  sugar.  .  .  1 

Eggs  ...............  10  eggs  are  1  pound. 

Flour  ...............  8  quarts"  1  peck. 

Flour  ...........  ----  4  pecks  "  1  bushel. 

16  large  table-spoonfuls  are  ............  £  pint. 

8  large  table-spoonfuls  are  ..........  ...  1  gill. 

4  large  table-spoonfuls  are  ...........  .'  .  i  gill. 

2  gills  are  ...........................  £  pint. 

2  pints  are  .........................  1  quart. 

4  quarts  are  .......................  1  gallon. 

A  common  sized  tumbler  holds  ........  £  pint. 

A  common  sized  wine-glass  ............  i  gill. 

25  drops  are  equal  to  .........  1  tea-spoonful. 

6131.     Sizes  of  Drawing  Paper. 


"Wove  Antique  ..................  52 

Uncle  Sam  .....................  48 

Double  Elephant  ................  40 

Emperor  .......................  40 


X31  in. 
x  120  in. 
X26 
X60 
X26 


n. 
in. 
in. 
in. 
in. 


Atlas  ...........................  32 

Colombier  .......................  33£  X  23 

Elephant  .......................  27 

Imperial  ........................  29  X21J  in. 

Super  Royol  ....................  27  Xl9    in. 

Koyal  ..........................  24  X19    in. 

Medium  ........................  22  Xl8    in. 

Demy  ...........................  19  Xl5i  in. 

Cap  ............................  13  X16    in. 

6132.  Barometrical  Rules  for  Prog- 
nosticating the  Weather.  I.  After  a 
continuance  of  dry  weather,  if  the  barometer 
begins  to  fall  slowly  and  steadily,  rain  will 
certainly  ensue;  but  if  the  fine  weather  has 
been  of  long  duration,  the  mercury  may  fall 
for  2  or  3  days  before  any  perceptible  change 
takes  place,  and  the  longer  time  that  elapses 
before  rain  comes,  the  longer  the  wet  weather 
is  likely  to  last. 

II.  Conversely,  if,  after  a  great  deal  of 
wet  weather,  with  the  barometer  below  its 
mean  height,  the  mercury  begins  to  rise  stead- 
ily and  slowly,  fine  weather  will  come,  though 
2  or  3  wet  days  may  first  elapse  ;  and  the  fine 
weather  will  be  the  more  permanent,  in  pro- 
portion to  the  length  of  time  that  passes 
before  the  perceptible  change  takes  place. 


TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


533 


III.  On  either  of  the  two  foregoing  suppo- 
sitions, if  the  change  immediately  ensues  on 
the  motion  of  the  mercury,  the  change  will 
not  be  permanent. 

IV.  If   the  barometer  rises   slowly   and 
steadily  for  two  days  together,  or  more,  fine 
weather  will  come,  though  for  those  two  days 
it  may  rain  incessantly,  and  the  reverse ;  but 
if  the  barometer  rises  for  two  days  or  more 
during  rain,  and  then,  on  the  appearance  oi 
fine  weather,  begins  to  fall  again,   the  fine 
weather    will    be    very    transient,   and    vice 
versa. 

V.  A   sudden  fall    of   the    barometer    in 
spring  or  autumn  indicates  wind;  in  summer, 
during  very  hot   weather,   a    thunder-storm 
may  be  expected;    in  winter,   a  sudden  fall 
after  frost  of  some  continuance  indicates  a 
change  of  wind  with  thaw  and  rain;  but  in  a 
continued  frost  a  rise  of  the  mercury  indicates 
approaching  snow. 

VI.  No  rapid  fluctuations  of  the  barometer 
are  to  be  interpreted  as  indicating  either  dry 
or  wet  weather  of  any  continuance ;  it  is  only 
the  slow,  steady,  and  continued  rise  or  fall, 
that  is  to  be  attended  to  in  this  respect. 

VII.  A  rise  of  the  mercury  late  in  the 
autumn,  after  a  long  continuance  of  wet  and 
windy  weather,  generally  indicates  a  change 
of  wind  to  the  northern  quarters,  and  the  ap- 
proach of  frost. 

6133.    Melting  or  Boiling  Point  of  Met- 
als, Liquids,  &c. 

D"gree» 
Fahr. 

3080°  Platinum  melts. 

2786    Cast  iron  melts ;  2696°  (Morveau). 

2500     Steel  melts. 

2016     Gold  melts  (Daniell);  2200°  (Kane). 

1996     Copper  melts  (Kane);  2548°  (Daniell). 

1873    Silver  melts  (Makins) ;  2233°  (Daniell). 

1869    Brass  melts  (Daniell). 

1000     Iron,  bright  cherry  red  (Poillet). 

980     Iron,  red  heat  (Daniell). 

914    Zinc  burns  (Daniell). 

810    Antimony  melts. 

773    Zinc  melts  (Daniell);  793°  (Gmelin). 

644    Mercury  boils  (Daniell);  662°(  Graham). 

630    Whale  oil  boils  (Graham). 

612    Lead  melts  (Crighton);  609°  (Daniell). 

600    Linseed  oil  boils. 

560     Sulphur  ignites. 

545    Sulphuric  acid  boils  (Phillips);    620° 
(Graham). 

476    Bismuth  inelts(PMZ(ps);518°(  Gmelin). 

442    Tin  melts. 

380    Arsenious  acid  volatilizes. 

372    Saturated  solution  of  nitrate  of  ammo- 
nia boils. 

356    Metallic  arsenic  sublimes. 

336     Saturated  solution  of  acetate  of  potassa 
boils. 

320     Cane  sugar  melts,  320°  to  400°,  baking 
heat  of  an  oven. 

315    Oil  of  turpentine  boils  (Kane). 

304     Saturated  solution   of  nitrate   of  lime 
boils. 

302    Etherification  ends. 

275    Saturated  solution  of  carbonate  of  pot- 
ash boils. 

256     Saturated  solution  of  acetate   of  soda 
boils. 

248    Nitric  acid,  specific  gravity  1.42,  boils. 

238    Saturated  solution  of  nitre  boils. 


236°  Saturated  solution  of  sal-ammoniac 
boils. 

226     Sulphur  melts  (Fowncs) ;  232°  (  Turner). 

220  Saturated  solution  of  alum,  carbonate 
of  soda,  and  sulphate  of  zinc  boils. 

218  Saturated  solution  of  chloride  of  po- 
tassa boils. 

216  Saturated  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron, 
sulphate  of  copper,  and  nitrate  of 
lead  boils. 

213    Water  begins  to  boil  in  glass  (or  213£°). 

212  Water  boils  in  metal,  barometer  at  30 
inches. 

199    Milk  boils. 

194    Sodium  melts. 

185     Nitric  acid,  specific  gravity  1.52,  boils. 

180    Starch  dissolves  in  water. 

176    Rectified  spirit  boils.     Benzole  distills. 

173  Alcohol,  specific  gravity  796  to  800, 
boils. 

151  Bees'- wax  melts  (Kane);  142°  (Le- 
page). 

150  Scalding  heat.  Pyroxylic  spirit  boils 
(Scanlan). 

145    Albumen  coagulates. 

140  Chloroform  and  ammonia,  specific  grav- 
ity .945,  boils. 

136    Potassium  melts  (Daniell). 

132    Acetone  (pyroacetic  spirit)  boils  (.Kane). 

130    Butter  melts  (130°  to  140°). 

122    Mutton  suet  and  styracine  melts. 

120    Phosphorus  inflames.   Friction  matches 

ignite. 

116    Bisulphuret  of  carbon  boils  (Graham). 
112    Spermaceti  and  stearine  melt. 
Ill    Beef  tallow  melts. 
110    Highest    temperature    of   the    human 

body  (in  lockjaw). 
106    Mutton  tallow  melts. 

99     Phosphorus  melts  (99°  to  100°). 

98  Ether,  specific  gravity  .720,  boils. 
Blood  heat. 

88  Acetous  fermentation  ceases.  "Water 
boils  in  a  vacuum. 

81    Mean  temperature  at  the  equator. 

77  Vinous  fermentation  ends ;  acetous 
begins. 

67  Lowest  temperature  of  the  human 
body  (in  cholera). 

65    Best  temperature  of  a  room  (65°  to  68). 

62    Oil  of  anise  liquefies ;  congeals  at  60°. 

60    Mean  temperature  at  Rome. 

50^Mean  temperature  at  London. 

42  Sulphuric  acid,  specific  gravity  1.741, 
congeals  (41°  to  42°). 

41    Mean  temperature  of  Edinburgh. 

36    Olive  oil  freezes. 

32    Water  freezes. 

30    Milk  freezes. 

28    Vinegar  freezes. 

20     Strong  wine  freezes. 

—  4    Mixture  of  snow  and  salt. 

—  7     Brandy  freezes. 

—39    Mercury  freezes  (30°  to  40°).   (See  also 
Nos.  7,3353,  3459  and  1687,  <f-c). 

6134.    Weight  of  Earth,  Bocks,  &c. 
A  cubic  yard  of  sand  or  ground  weighs  about 

30  cwt.     Mud,  25  cwt.    Marl,  26  cwt.     Clay, 

31  cwt.      Chalk,  36  cwt.      Sandstone,  39  cwt. 
Shale,  40  cwt.     Quartz,  41  cwt.    Granite,  42 
cwt.     Trap,  42  cwt.     Slate,  43  cwt. 

To  find  the  weight  of  a  cubic  foot  of  any  of 
he  above,  divide  the  weight  of  a  cubic  yard 


534: 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASUEES,  ETC. 


by  27.  Thus,  a  cubic  foot  of  sand  weighs 
f  ?,  or  1^  cwt.,  equivalent  to  about  124  pounds. 
6135.  Weight  of  Various  Minerals. 
One  cubic  foot  of  water  weighs  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  60°  Fahrenheit,  62|  pounds  avoirdu- 
pois. By  ascertaining  the  specific  gravity  of 
a  substance  and  multiplying  with  62i  pounds, 
the  exact  weight  of  one  cubic  foot  is  obtained. 

Pounds 

Avoirdupois. 

Cubic  foot 

Bp.  Or.     Weighs. 

Anthracite  coal 1.5  94 

Antimonial  copper,  tetrahedrite, 

or  grey  copper 5.0  300 

Antimonial  silver 9.5  600 

Antimony  ore,  grey  sulphuret- .  4.5  279 

Antimony  rrtetal 6.5  400 

Apatite,  or  phosphate  of  lime. .  3.0  186 
Arsenical     iron    pyrites,     mis- 

pickel 6.0  370 

Asbestos 3.0  186 

Asphaltum,  mineral  pitch 1.0  62 

Baryta  sulphate 4.5  310 

Baryta  carbonate,  witherhite. ..  4.0  248 

Bismuth 9.7  600 

Bituminous  coal 1.5  90 

Black  lead,  graphite 2.0  125 

Black  jack  blende,  sulphuret  of 

zinc 4.0  250 

Bog  iron  ore 4.0  250 

Brown  haematite 4.0  250 

Building      stones,     comprising 

granite,  gneiss,  syenite,  &c. ..  3.0  186 

Calamine 3.3  190 

Chromic  iron 4.5  260 

Copper  pyrites 4.0  260 

Derbyshire  spar,  fluor  spar 3.0  186 

Feldspar 3.0  190 

Flint  2.5  110 

Loose  sand —  95 

Franklinite 5.0  310 

Galena 7.5  465 

Gold  (20  carats) 15.7  )  1000 

"    (pure) 19.2$tol200 

Gypsum 2.3  130 

Iron — cast  iron —  450 

"      magnetic  ore 5.0  310 

spathic  ore.. 3.0  200 

"      pyrites 5.0  310 

pyrrhotine,   or    magnetic 

pyrites 4.5  280 

specular  ore 4.5  290 

wrought —  487 

Limestone,  hydraulic 2.7  150 

"         magnesian 2.5  130 

Manganese,  binoxide  of. 4.8  294 

Malachite... 4.0  248 

Mica.. 2.8  160 

Novaculite,  or  whetstone 3.0  186 

Ochre .- 3.5  217 

Platinum,  metal  and  ores 16  to  19  1116 

Porcelain  clay 2.0  140 

Pyrites,  iron 4.5  280 

Quartz,  pure,  compact 2.6  155 

"      loose,  angular,  and  round 

sand —  100 

Trap 3.0  186 

Vitreous  copper,  copper  glance.  5.5  341 

"Wood  tin,  stream  tin 7.0  434 

Zinc,  sulphide  or  blende 4.0  250 

Zincite,  red  zinc  ore 5.5  331 

Zinc  carbonate 4.4  268 

Zinc  silicate 3.4  200 

(Feuchtwanger). 


6136.  Table  of  the  Belative  Hardness 
and  Weight  of  the  Principal  Precious 
Stones,  &c. 

„  .    ,  Hard-  Specific 

Substances.  ness>  G£vity. 

Diamond  from  Ormus 20  3.7 

"        (pink) 19  3.4 

(bluish) 19  3.3 

"       (yellowish) 19  3.3 

"        (cubic) 18     .    3.2 

Ruby 17  4.2 

"    (pale,  from  Brazil) 16  3.5 

Sapphire 16  3.8 

Topaz 15  4.2 

"    (whitish) 14  3.5 

"    (Bohemian) 11  2.8 

Ruby  (spinelle) 13  3.4 

Emerald 12  2.8 

Garnet 12  4.4 

Agate j 12  2.6 

Onyx 12  2.6 

Sardonyx 12  2.6 

Amethyst  (occidental) 11  2.7 

Crystal 11  2.6 

Cornelian 11  2.7 

Jasper  (green) 11  2.7 

"     (reddish  yellow) 9  2.6 

Schoerl 10  3.6 

Tourmaline 10  3.0 

Quartz 10  2.7 

Opal 10  2.6 

Chrysolite 10  3.7 

Zeolite 8  2.1 

Fluor 7  3.5 

Calcareous  spar 6  2.7 

Gypsum 5  2.3 ' 

Chalk 3  2.7 

Glass 2.3  :  3.62 

"   (plate) 2.5:2.6 

"  (crystal  or  flint) 3.0 : 3.616 

6137.  Weight  of  Hemp  and  Wire  Hope. 


HEMP. 

IBON  WIEE. 

STEEL  WIBE  . 

Cir- 
cumfer- 
ence. 

Lbs. 
Weight 
per 
Fathom 

Cir- 
cumfer- 
ence. 

Lbs. 

Weight 
per 
Fathom. 

Cir- 
cumfer- 
ence. 

Lbs. 
Weight 
per 
Fathom 

2* 

2 

1 

1 





— 

— 

li 

li 

1 

1 

Si    i      4 

If 

2 

— 

— 

—    i     — 

If 

2i 

li 

U 

41    i      5 

If 

3 

— 

— 

—        —  . 

2 

3i 

If 

2 

£}         7 

ft 

4 

u 

2| 

—    '    —  . 

at 

4| 

— 

6           9 

if 

5 

li 

3 

—   !    — 

ei 

54 

— 

6j    !     10 

2f 

6 

2 

3i 

— 

— 

2f 

6i 

24 

4 

7 

12 

21 

7 

si 

4i 

— 

— 

3 

•    7i 

— 

7i 

14 

3* 

8 

2| 

5 

— 

— 

sf 

81 

— 

— 

8 

16 

3| 

9 

Si 

5i 

— 

— 

*! 

10 

2f 

6 

8k 

18 

3f 

11 

91 

6* 

— 

— 

34 

12 

— 

9i 

22 

3| 

13 

3i 

8 

10 

26 

4 

14 

— 

— 

— 

4t 

15 

3f 

9 

11 

30 

4| 

16 

— 

— 

— 

*j 

18 

3i 

10 

12 

34 

4| 

20 

34 

12 

TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


535 


6138.     Miscellaneous  Statistics. 


TIMBER. 

SpecificGravity 

Weight  in  Ibs. 
per 
Cubic  Foot. 

Tenacity  in  Ibs. 
per 
Square  Inch. 

Crushing  Force 
in  Ibs.  per 
Square  Inch. 

Ash  

.8 
.69 
.71 
.48 
.7 
.6 
.75 
.55 
.6 
.8 
.93 
.87 
.65 
.45 
.65 
.8 

.9 
.98 
.94 

1.8 

.8 
.74 
.90 
1.000 
1.028 

50 
43 
44 
30 
44 
37 
47 
34 
37 
50 
58 
54 
41 
28 
41 
50 

56 
61 
59 
112 

50 
46 
56 
62.4 
64.1 

17.200 
11.000 
15.000 
11.000 
12.000 
13.000 
20.000 
9.000 

16.000 
17.000 
10.000 
12.000 
11.000 
15.000 
8.000 

Boiling  Point. 

173° 
100 

212 
213 

9.000 
9.000 
5.500 
5.600 
6.000 
10.000 
7.000 
5.500 

8.000 
10.000 
6.000 
5.800 
5.100 
12.000 

Expansion.* 

.11 
.07 
.08 
.047 

Beech. 

Birch  

Cedar.  .  . 

Deal,  Christiana  

Elm  

Hornbeam.  .   .  .  

Larch  

Memel  

Mahogany,  Spanish.  .  

Oak,  English  

Oak,  Canadian  .  .  .  

Pine,  red        .  ......  

Pine,  yellow  

Teak,  Moulmein  .  

Tew  

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Asphaltum  .  . 

Gutta-percha  .        .. 

India-rubber  .  

Ivory  

FLUIDS. 
Alcohol  

Ether  

Oil  

"Water,  fresh  

"Water,  sea.  

OASES. 

Water 
1. 

Comparative  Weight 
(Air  being  1.) 

Weight  of 
Cubic  Foot 
in  Grains. 

Air  

.0012 
.0018 
.0005 
.00008 
.00125 

1.000 
1.524 
.420 
.069 
1.103 

527 
800 
220 
43 
627- 

Carbonic  acid  

Carburetted  hydrogen  

Hydrogen  .  ..  .. 

Oxygen  

*  Expansion  of  fluids  is  calculated  between  32°  and  212°  Fahrenheit. 

6139.    Weight  of  Copper  and  Lead. 

Weight  of  a  Square  Foot  of  Copper  and  Lead 
in  pounds,  from  ^  to  i  inch  in  thickness. 


Thickness. 

Copper. 

Lead. 

& 

1.45 

1.85 

A 

2.90 

3.70 

A 

4.35 

5.54 

5.80 

7.39 

n 

7.26 

9.24 

ft 

8.71 

11.08 

A 

10.16 

12.93 

11.61 

14.77 

A 

13.07 

16.62 

A 

14.52 

18.47 

B 

15.97 

20.31 

I 

17.41 

22.16 

it 

18.87 

24.00 

^ 

20.32 

25.85 

H 

21.77 

27.70 

1 

23.22 

29.55 

6140.    Weight  of  Cast-Iron  Plates. 
Weight  of  Cast-Iron  Plates,  12  inches  square. 


Thickness.  Weight. 

•|  inch..  4  Ibs.  13f  oz. 
J  "  ..9  "  lOfr  " 
f  "  ..14  "  8  " 
i  "  ..19  "  5f  " 


Thickness.  Weight, 

f  inch. 24  Ibs.  2foz. 
f  "  .29  "  0  " 
f  "  -33  "  13f  " 

1      "    .38   "     lOf  " 


6141.    Weighl 

Weight  of  a  Square  . 
pounds  avoirdupois, 
number  on  the  wire 
an  inch  ;  No.  4,  £  ;  . 

Wire  Gauge.                        Avoir. 

1    12.5 
2    12. 

;  of  Sheet  Iron. 

Toot  of  Sheet  Iron  in 
the  thickness  being  the 
gauge.    No  1  is  -fg  of 
Vo.  11,  i,  <fc. 

No.  on                           pound* 
Wire  Gauge.                        Arolr. 

12  4.62 
13                           431 

3    11. 

14                            4 

4    10. 

15  3.95 

5    9. 

16  3 

6    .^.  8. 

17  -25 

7    7.5 

18                           318 

8    7. 

19                            1  93 

9    6. 

20  1  62 

10  5.68 

21  ..                       15 

11  5. 

22                           1  37 

6142.    Weight 

Weight  of  a  Square 
from  %  to  1  inch 
Thickness.             Weight. 
•J-inch  5  pounds, 
ft          ---7.5 
i         ....10 
ft          ..12.5 
|          ....15 
A          -17.5 
I         ....20 
ft          ..22.5 

of  Boiler  Iron. 

Foot  of  Boiler  Iron, 
thick,  in  pounds. 
Thickness.             Weight 
f  inch  25  pounds. 
H          --27.5 
i         ....30 
it          -.32.5 
1         ....35 
If          ..37.5 
1          ....40 

536 


TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 
6143.    Properties  of  Metals. 


MET  ALB. 

Weight  of  » 
Cubic  Inch 

in  I,l>«. 

Specific 
Gravity. 

Weight  of  a 
Cubic  Foot 
In  I.bs. 

Tenacity 
in  Lbs.  per 
Square  Inch. 

Crushing 

Km,-,;  in  I.bs 
per  Bq.Inch. 

Melting 
point. 

Ftthr. 

Expansion 
between 
32"  &  212° 

Con- 
ducting 
power. 

Specific 
Heat. 

Aluminum  

.092 
.242 
.35 
.3 

.32 

.7 
.3 
.28 

.26 
.41 

.49 
.38 

.282 

.263 
.253 

2.56 
6.7 
9.82 
8.4 
8.5 
8.89 
8.95 
9. 
19.25 
8.4 
7.7 
7.6 

7.18 
11.35 

13.56 
10.47 

7.8 
7.78 
7.29 
7. 

160 
418 
605 
525 
531 
555 
559 
562 
1203 
525 
481 
475 

448 
709 

847 
654 
487 
485 
455 
437 

1,066 
3,250 
17,978 
49,000 
19,072 
33,000 
61,000 
20,400 
36,000 
60,000 
70,000 
85,000 
19,000 
1,824 
3.328 

41,000 
120,000 
80,000 
5,000 
8,000 

10,300 
11,700 

38,000 

92,000 
7,000 

15,000 

*1800° 
810° 
497° 
1869° 

1996° 
2016° 

2786° 
612° 

—39° 

1873° 
2500° 

442° 
773° 

.0011 
.0014 
.002 

.0017 

.0016 
.0012 

.0011 
.0028 

.016 
.0019 
.0011 

.0021 
.0029 

898 
1000 
347 

180 
973 

304 
363 

.0507 

.0288 

.0949 

.0298 
.1100 

.0293 

.0330 
.0557 

.0514 
.0927 

Antimony,  cast.  . 
Bismuth..       .... 

Brass,  cast  

"      wire. 

Copper,  cast  - 

"      sheet  
"      wire  

Gold         

Gun-metal  

Iron,  wrought  bar 
"    Swedish  
"    wire  

«   cast  

Lead,  cast.  

"      sheet  

Mercury  

Silver  

Steel  

"   puddled  
Tin  

Zinc.. 

*  Approximate;  no  well-authenticated  experiments  on  Aluminum. 

6144.    "Weight  of  Bound  and  Square 
Shafts  of  Wrought  Iron,  1  Foot  Long. 


Size  in 
Inches. 

Weight  in  Lbs. 

Size  in 
Inches. 

Weight  in  Lb«. 

Bound. 

Square. 

Hound. 

Square. 

| 

.042 

.053 

4| 

59.7 

76.0 

\ 

.166 

.211 

5 

66.2 

84.3 

I 

.372 

.474 

5f 

72.9 

92.9 

ft 

.662 

.843 

B| 

80.1 

102 

f 

1.03 

1.32 

5f 

87.5 

111 

i 

1.49 

1.90 

6 

95.3 

121 

i 

2.03 

2.58 

6i 

103 

132 

i 

2.65 

3.37 

61 

112 

142 

if 

3.35 

4.27 

6| 

121 

154 

H 

4.14 

5.27 

7 

130 

165 

it 

5.00 

6.37 

7i 

139 

177 

H 

5  97 

7.58 

7f 

149 

190 

if 

7.00 

8.90 

7f 

159 

203 

li 

8.11 

10.3 

8 

169 

216 

i* 

9.31 

11.8 

8* 

180 

229 

2 

10.6 

13.5 

8} 

191 

244 

2i 

11.9 

15.2 

8f 

203 

258 

2i 

13.4 

17.1 

9 

214 

273 

2| 

14.9 

19.0 

» 

227 

288 

si 

16.5 

21.1 

j4 

239 

304 

» 

18.2 

23.2 

9f 

252 

320 

24 

20.0 

25.5 

10 

265 

337 

p 

21.9 

27.9 

10^ 

292 

372 

3 

23.8 

30.3 

11 

320 

408 

3± 

28.0 

35.6 

il* 

350 

448 

3} 

32.4 

41.3 

12 

381 

486 

5| 

37.2 

47.4 

134 

414 

527 

4 

42.4 

54.0 

13 

447 

570 

4* 

47.8 

60.9 

13| 

483 

614 

s 

53.6 

68.2 

14 

519 

661 

and  by  3.36 ;  the  product  "will  be  the  weight 
in  pounds  avoirdupois,  nearly. 

Square,  Angled,  T,  Convex,  or  any  figure 
of  Beam  Iron. — Ascertain  the  area  of  the  end 
of  each  figure  of  bar,  in  inches,  then  multiply 
the  area  by  the  length  in  feet,  and  that  pro- 
duct by  10,  and  divide  by  three ;  the  remain- 
der will  be  the  weight  in  pounds,  nearly. 

Square  Cast  Steel. — Multiply  the  area  of 
the  end  of  the  bar  in  inches,  by  the  length  in 
feet,  and  that  product  by  3.4;  the  product 
will  be  the  weight  in  pounds,  nearly. 

Bound  Cast  Steel. — Multiply  the  square  of 
the  diameter  in  inches,  by  the  length  in  feet, 
and  that  product  by  2.67;  the  product  will 
give  the  weight  in  pounds  avoirdupois,  nearly. 

6146.  Number  of  Nails  per  Pound. 
The  following  table  shows  the  length  of  the 
various  sizes  of  nails  and  the  number  of  each 
in  a  pound : 


6145.  Weights  of  Wrought-Iron  and 
Steel. 

Round  Iron. — Multiply  the  square  of  the 
diameter  in  inches,  by  the  length  in  feet,  and 
by  2.63,  and  the  product  will  be  the  weight 
in  pounds  avoirdupois,  nearly. 

Square  Iron. — Multiply  the  area  of  the 
end  of  the  bar  in  inches,  by  the  length  in  feet, 


Size. 

Length. 

Nuir/oer. 

3-penny, 

1  inch  long, 

557  per  pound. 

4 

H 

353 

5 

H 

232 

6 

2 

167 

7 

2i 

141 

8 

21 

101 

10 

21 

98 

12 

3 

54 

20 

Si 

34 

Spil 

es 

4 

16 

1 

« 

12 

i 

5 

10 

1 

"6 

7 

' 

7 

5 

The  term  "penny,"  designating  the  size  of 
nails,  appears  to  mean  "pound."  Ten-penny 
nails  weighing  10  pounds  per  thousand,  four- 
penny  nails  4  pounds  per  thousand,  &c. 
(Webster.)  This  is  probably  the  weight  the 
nails  were  originally  made ;  according  to  the 
foregoing  table  they  have  since  learned  econ- 
omy in  the  material. 


TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


537 


6147.     Calendar  for  Ascertaining  on  what  Day  of  the  "Week  any  Given  Day 
will  Fall  within  the  Present  Century. 


YEARS  1801 

TO  1900. 

c 

e 

H 

j  | 

1 

I 

I 

3 

1 

1 

-w 

& 

CC 

i 

II 

O 

J     CN 

CO 

CO 

CO 

55 

s 

CO 

CO 

CO    CO 

1801 

1807 

1818 

1829 

1835 

1846 

1857 

1863 

1874 

1885 

1891    4 

I      7 

7 

3 

5 

1 

3 

6 

2 

4 

7    2 

1802 

1813 

1819 

1830 

1841 

1847 

1858 

1869 

1875 

1886 

1897    £ 

3 

5 

1    3 

1803 

1814 

1825 

1831 

1842 

1853 

1859 

1870 

1881 

1887 

1898    ( 

2 

2 

5 

7 

3 

5 

1 

4 

6 

2   4 

1805 

1811 

1822 

1833 

1839 

1850 

1861 

1867 

1878 

1889 

1895    5 

5 

5 

1 

3 

0 

1 

4 

7 

2 

5    7 

1806 

1817 

1823 

1834 

1845 

1851 

1862 

1873 

1879 

1890 

| 

6 

6 

2 

4 

7 

2 

5 

1 

3 

6   1 

1809 

1815 

1826 

1837 

1843 

1854 

1865 

1871 

1882 

1893 

1899     ' 

r  3 

3 

6 

1 

4 

6 

2 

5 

7 

3   5 

1S10 

1821 

1827 

1838 

1849 

1855 

1866 

1877 

1883 

1894 

1900    3 

4 

4 

7 

2 

5 

7 

3 

6 

1 

4   6 

To  ascertain  any  day  of  the  week  in  any 
year  of  the  present  century,  first  look  in 
the  table  of  years  for  the  year   required, 
and  under   the  months  are  figures  which 
refer  to   the  corresponding  figures  at  the 
head  of  the  columns  of  days  below. 

For  Example  :    To  find  what  day  of  the 
week  January  1  will  be  in  the  year  1873, 
look  in  the  table  of  years  for  1873,  and  in 
a  parallel  line  under  January  is  figure  3, 
which  directs  to  column  3,  in  which  it  will 
be  seen  that  January  1  will  fall  on  Wed- 
nesday. 

LEAP-YEARS. 

1804 

1832 

1860 

1888     ' 

r  3 

4 

7 

2 

5 

7 

3 

6 

1 

4    6 

1808 

1836 

1864 

1892     ( 

>  i 

2 

5 

7 

3 

5 

1 

4 

6 

2   4 

1812 

1840 

1868 

1896    I 

i    6 

7 

3 

5 

1 

3 

6 

2 

4 

7   2 

1816 

1844 

1872 

] 

I   4 

5 

1 

3 

6 

1 

4 

7 

2 

5    7 

1820 

1848 

1876 

( 

>    2 

3 

6 

1 

4 

6 

2 

5 

7 

3   5 

1824 

1852 

1880 

^ 

t   7 

1 

4 

6 

2 

4 

7 

3 

5 

1    3 

1828 

1856 

1884 

i 

!    5 

6 

2 

4 

7 

2 

5 

1 

3 

6   1 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

r 

Mon  1 
Tues  2 
Wed  3 
Thur  4 
Fri..  B 

Tu 
We 
Th 

Fn 
Sat 

Su 
Mn 

BS  

d  
ur  

1 
2 
3 
4 

5 
G 
7 

8 
9 

10 
11 
12 
13 

•fl 

X 
F 
S 
S 
IV 
T 

"W 
T 
F 

S 
S 

1 

'ed... 
hur  .. 
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.  2 
3 

Thur  1 
Fri  2 

Fri  1 
Sat  2 

Sa 

Si 
K 
Ti 
W 
Tl 
F) 

Sa 

t  

1 

Su 

Mr 

Q  1 

in  

n  2 

Sat  3 

Sun  3 
Mon  4 
Tues  5 
Wed  6 
Thur  .        7 

on  
les  
ed  
IUT  .... 

3 

4 
5 
6 
7 

8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
18 
14 

t 

Tu 
We 
Th 

Fn 
Sal 

Su 
Me 
Tu 
We 
Th 
Fri 
Sat 

Su 

es  3 
d  4 
ur  .  ...  5 
6 

it.... 

.  4 
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Sun  4 
Mon  5 
Tues  6 
Wed  7 

Sat. 
Sun. 

..  ..   6 
7 

i  
n  

[on.  .. 

.  6 

7 

7 

Mon 
Tues 
Wed 
Thui 

Fri.. 

£ 

1 

Tu 
We 
Th 
Fri 

Sat 
Sui 
Mn 

es  
d  
ur  

red.  .  . 
hur  .  . 

.   8 
.  9 
10 

Thur  8 
Fri  9 

Fri  8 

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a  8 

9 
10 

Sat  9 

in  

n  9 
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d  11 
ur  12 
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Sat  10 

Siin..    .  .    11 

Sun  10 
Mon  ...  11 

M 
Ti 
W 
Tl 
Fl 

Sa 
Si 
M 
Ti 
W 
Tl 
Fl 

Sa 
Si 
M 
Ti 
W 
Tl 
Fi 

Sa 
Si 
M 

on  
les  
ed  
mr  

11 
i; 

1 

it 

12 

Mon  H 

Tues  12 
Wed  13 
Thur  14 

Fri  15 

Sat.. 

H 

i  

13 

Tues  13 
Wed  14 

Thur  15 
Fri  16 
Sat  17 

Sun 

...14 

n  

14 

15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 

22 

21) 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 

29 
30 
31 

T 

^ 
T 
F 
S 
S 
M 
T 

•« 
T 
F 
S 
S 
1 
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V 
T 
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red... 
tiur.  .  . 
ri  

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.15 

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14 

Mon  1J 
Tues  1< 
Wed  lf 
Thur  li 
Fri  1! 

r 
t 
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Tu 

We 
Th 
Fn 
Sat 
Sui 
Mo 

Tu 

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Fri 
Sat 
Sui 
Mo 

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d  
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a  15 

Sat  16 
Sun  17 

in  
on  
les  
ed  
lur  
1    . 

10 
17 
18 
19 
20 
Jl 

22 
23 
24 

25 
2G 

27 
28 

29 
30 
31 

Me 
Tu 
We 
Th 
Fn 
Sal 

Su 
Me 
Tu 
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Th 
Fri 
Sal 

Su 
Me 
Tu 

n  16 
es  17 
d  18 

UT....19 

20 

it    . 

18 

Sun  18 

Mon  18 
Tues  19 
Wed  20 
Thur....  21 

Fri  22 
Sat  23 
Sun  24 
Mon  25 
Tues  26 
Wed  27 

in  .  .  .  . 

19 

Mon  19 
Tues  20 
Wed  21 

Thur  ....22 
Fri  23 

Sat.. 
Sun 

2( 

...21 

i  
n  

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d  
ur  

i  
n  

98  

d  
ar  

[on  .  .  . 

.20 

ues... 

fed... 
hur.  . 

..21 

.22 
.23 

21 

Mon  22 
Tues  2; 
Wed  24 
Thur  2£ 
Fri  2t 
Sat  ¥ 
Sun  2? 

Mon  2J 
Tues  3£ 
Wed..:..  3] 

t  

a  22 
n  23 
es  74 
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in  
on  
ies  
ed  
HIT  .... 
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t  

ri  .  .  .  . 
it  
an.  ..  . 
on.  .  . 

.24 
.  25 
.26 
.27 

Sat  24 

Sun  25 
Mon  26 
Tues  27 

ues... 

red... 
hur  .  . 

.28 

.29 
.30 

Wed.....  28 

Thur..  ..29 
Fri  30 

Thur  28 

Fri  29 
Sat  30 

a  29 
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es  31 

in  
on  

ri  .  .  .  . 

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Sat  31 

Sun  31 

6148.  Proportions  of  a  Beautiful 
Body.  The  height  should  be  exactly  equal 
to  the  distance  between  the  tips  of  the  middle 
fingers  of  either  hand  when  the  arms  are  fully 
extended.  Ten  times  the  length  of  the  hand, 
or  seven  and  a  half  times  the  length  of  the 
foot,  or  five  times  the  diameter  of  the  chest 
from  ;,ne  armpit  to  the  other,  should  also  each 
give  the  height  of  the  whole  body.  The  dis- 
tance from  the  junction  of  the  thighs  to  the 


ground  should  be  the  same  as  from  that  point 
to  the  crown  of  the  head.  The  knee  should 
be  precisely  midway  between  the  same  point 
and  the  bottom  of  the  heel.  The  distance 
from  the  elbow  to  the  tip  of  the  middle  finger 
should  be  the  same  as  from  the  elbow  to  the 
middle  line  of  the  breast.  From  the  top  of 
the  head  to  the  level  of  the  chin  should  be 
the  same  as  from  the  level  of  the  chin  to  that 
of  the  armpits,  and  from  the  heel  to  the  toe. 


538  TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC, 

6149.    Loss  Sustained  by  Different  Substances  in  Drying. 


Grains. 

Dried  at 

Lose  Grains. 

100 
100 
100 
100 
100 
100 
100 
100 

Gallic  Acid 
Sulphate  of  Quinine 
Arseniate  of  Soda 
Alum 
Carbonate  of  Soda 
Phosphate  of  Soda 
Sulphate  of  Soda 
Carbonate  of  Potassa 

212° 
212° 
300° 
400° 

Dull  Kedness 
u 

u 
it 

9.5 
14.4 
40.38 
47. 
63. 
63. 
56. 
16. 

Grains. 

Dried  at 

Leave  Grains. 

29 
10 
100 
50 
50 

Oxide  of  Silver 
Oxalate  of  Ceerium 
Oxalate  of  Iron 
Tartrate  of  Iron 
Carbonate  of  Magnesia 

Redness 
it 

i< 
it 
a 

27     Metallic  Silver 
4.8  Oxide  with  Peroxide 
27    Peroxide  of  Iron 
15     Sesquioxide  of  Iron 
22     Magnesia 

6150.   Table  of  Symbols  and  Equiva- 
lents of  Metallic  Elements.    The  specific 
gravity  of  the  following  are  given  at  water 
standard.     The  equivalents  are  multiples.  of 
iydrogen,  which  is  adopted  as  the  basis,  or  1. 

Symbol. 

Equivalent. 

Sp.  Or. 

U.  8.  DU. 

Ure. 

Al 
Sb 
As 
Ba 
Bi 
B 
Cd 
Ca 
Ce 
Or 
Co 
Ta 
Cffl 
Cu 
D 
E 
G 
Au 
11 
In 
Ir 
Fe 
La 
Pb 
L 
Mg 
Mn 
Hg 
M 
Ni 
Nb 
No 
Os 
Pd 
Pe 
Pt 
K 
Ro 
Rb 
Ru 
Si 
Ag 
Na 
Sr 
Te 
Tb 
Tl 
Th 
Sn 
Ti 
W 
U 
V 
Y 
Zn 
Zr 

13.70 
122.00 
75.00 
68.70 
210.00 
10.90 
55.80 
20.00 
46.00 
26.30 
29.50 
185.00 

31.70 
47.50 
56.30 
7.00 
199.00 
60.20 
74.00 
98.80 
28.00 
44.30 
103.60 
7.00 
12.00 
27.70 
200.00 
48.00 
29.50 
94.00 

99.70 
53.30 

98.90 
39.20 
52.20 
85.40 
52.20 
21.30 
108.00 
23.30 
43.80 
64.00 

204.00 
59.60 
59.00 
25.00 
92.00 
60.00 
51.?0 
30.85 
32.30 
33.60 

13.67 
129.00 
75.00 
68.50 
213.00 
11.00 
56.00 
20.00 
46.00 
26.27 
29.50 

123.00 

32.00 
48.00 

6.97 
98.33 

98.56 
28.00 

104.00 
7.00 
12.00 
26.00 
200.00 
48.00 
29.50 

99.41 
53.24 

99.00 
39.00 
52.16 
85.00 
52.11 
21.00 
108.0( 
23.00 
44.00 
64.08 

59.50 
59.00 
24.12 
92.00 
60.00 
68.46 

32.52 
33.58 

2.56 
6  70 
5.67 
4.70 
9.80 
2.68 
8.63 
1.58 

5.90 
8.53 

8.72 

19.4 

18.63 
7.84 

11.30 
.59 
1.75 
8.00 
13.50 
8.60 
8.63 

10.00 
11.50 

21.50 
.86 
11.20 

8.60 

10.43 
.97 
2.54 
6.30 

7.29 
5.28 
17.20 
10.15 

6.91 

Antimony  (Stibium)  
Arsenic  

Barium  

Bismuth  

Boron  

Cobalt  

3olumbium  (Tantalium) 

Glucinium  

Gold  (Aurum)  

Ilmenium  

Indium  

Iridium  

Iron  (Ferrum)  

Lantanium  

Magnesium  

Hercury  (Hydrargyrum) 
Molybdenum  

Nickel  

Niobium  

Norium  

Palladium  

Pelopium  

Platinum  

Potassium  (Kalium)  
Rhodium  

Rubidium  

Ruthenium  

Silicon  

Silver  (Argentum)  

Sodium  (Natrium)  

Strontium  

Tellurium  

Terbium  

Thallium  

Thorium  

Tin  (Stannum)  

Titanium  

Tungsten  (Wolfram)  
Uranium  

Yttrium  

Zinc  

Zirconium  

6151.    Table  of  Symbols  and  Equiva- 
lents of  MTon-Metaflic  Elements.      The 

specific  gravity  of  these  are  given  in  their 
gaseous  form,  air  being  the  standard  or  1.000. 
The  equivalents  are  multiples  of  hydrogen 
which  is  adopted  as  the  basis  or  1. 


Symbol. 

Equivalent. 

Specific 
Gravity. 

U.  S.  Dis. 

Ure. 

Bromine 

Br 

78.4 

80.0 

5.4110 

Carbon 

C 

6.0 

6.0 

.8290 

Chlorine 

Cl 

35.5 

35.5 

2.4530 

Fluorine 

Fl 

18.7 

19.0 

1.3270 

Hydrogen 

H 

1.0 

1.0 

.0692 

Iodine 

1 

126.3 

127.0 

•8.7827 

Nitrogen 

F 

14.0 

14.0 

.9713 

Oxygen 

0 

8.0 

8.0 

1.1056 

Phosphorus 

P 

32.0 

32.0 

4.2840 

Selenium 

Se 

40.0 

40.0 

7.6960 

Sulphur. 

S 

16.0 

16.0 

2.2140 

6152.  To  Reduce  Parts  by  Volume 
or  Measure  to  Parts  by  Weight.    Multi- 
ply the  parts  by  volume  or  measure  by  the 
specific  gravity  of  the  different  substances ; 
the  result  will  be  parts  by  weight. 

6153.  To  Find  the  Length  of  the  Day 
or  Night.     To  find  the  length  of  any  day, 
double  the  time  of  sunset.     Double  the  hour 
of  sunrise  will  be  the  length  of  the  night. 

6154.  To  Reduce  a  Liquid  to  a  Given 
Density.     It  has  been  already  stated  in  No. 
52  that  the  actual  weight  of  any  substance 
may  be  found  by  weighing  an  exactly  equal 
bulk  of  water,  and  multiplying  the  weight 
found  by  the  specific  gravity  of  the  substance ; 
the  product  is  the  actual  weight.     To   sim- 
plify this,  suppose  that  a  liquid  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  1.325 ;  also  that  a  certain  bulk  of 
water  (say  any  1  measure)  weighs  100  grains; 
then  a  similar  bulk  (1  measure)  of  the  sub- 
stance would  weigh  100X1.335  =  132.5  grains. 
Now,  supposing  we  wish  to  reduce  the  weight 
of  this  liquid,  so  that  1  measure  of  it  shall 
weigh  only  115.5  grains  (that  is,  shall  have  a 
specific  gravity  of  1.155),  how  much  water, 
whose  specific  gravity  is  1.000,  must  be  added 
to  it  to  produce  this  result  ? 

From  the  nature  of  the  proposition,  it  fol- 
lows that  the  bulk  of  the  substance  (1)  mul- 
tiplied by  its  specific  gravity  (1.325),  added 
to  the  bulk  of  added  (unknown)  water  multi- 
plied by  its  specific  gravity  (1.000),  must  be 
equal  to  the  aggregate  bulk  of  the  substance 


TABLES    OF   WEIGHTS,    MEASURES,    ETC. 


539 


and  of  the  water  combined,  multiplied  by  its 
required  specific  gravity  (1.155). 

Putting  the  above  words  into  shape,  and 
assuming  x  to  be  the  required  bulk  or  quantity 
of  water 

(1X1.325)  -fOxl.OOO)  =  (14*0X1.155 
or     1.325   -f         l.OOOx  —    1.155+1.155a; 
by   subtracting  1.155  and  1.000  a?  from  each 
side  we  have 

.170  =  .155a; 
in  other  words  the  required 

bulk  of  water, a?  =  :|W  =  1.097 

If,  as  supposed  above,  the  measure  assumed 
was  such  that  it  weighed  100  grains  of  water, 
we  should  have  to  add  109^  grains  of  water 
to  1  measure  of  the  substance  to  produce  a 
mixture  of  specific  gravity  1.155. 

6155.  Gay  Lussac's  Light  Areometer 
Reduced  to  Specific  Gravity.  This  in- 
strument ranges  from  0°  to  50°,  0°  corre- 
sponding with  water  at  59°  Fahr. 


6157.       Gay   Lussac's    Alcoholmeter 
Reduced  to  Specific  Gravity.    This  instru- 
ment exhibits  the  percentage  of  alcohol  by 
volume  in  different  alcoholic  mixtures  at  59° 
Tahr. 


Degree. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Degree. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

0° 

1.0000 

.0095 

30° 

.7692 

.0057 

5 

.9524 

.0087 

35 

.7407 

.0053 

10 

.9090 

.0079 

40 

.7143 

.0049 

15 

.8696 

.0073 

45 

.6897 

.0044 

20 

.8333 

.0067 

50 

.6667 

25 

.8000 

.0062 

This  table  gives  the  specific  gravity  corre- 
sponding to  every  5  degrees  of  the  scale.  To 
find  the  specific  gravity  of  intermediate 
degrees,  the  average  difference  between  each 
degree  is  given  in  the  third  column,  each 
given  difference  referring  to  the  four  degrees 
following  the  degree  opposite  which  the  dif- 
ference is  placed.  Thus :  To  find  the  specific 
gravity  corresponding  with  33  degrees  of  the 
scale,  look  in  the  table  for  the  specific  gravity 
of  the  nearest  lower  degree  given,  in  this 
instance  30°;  and  we  find  .7692;  33°  is  3° 
more  than  30°,  hence  we  must  deduct  3 
times  the  given  difference  (.0057),  or  .0171; 
this  last  deducted  from  .7692  =  .7521,  which 
is  the  approximate  specific  gravity  corre- 
sponding to  33°  of  the  scale. 

The  intermediate  degrees  of  other  areome- 
ters may  be  determined  in  a  similar  manner. 

The  corresponding  degrees  of  different  areo- 
meters may  also  be  found  by  a  comparison 
with  their  respective  specific  gravities;  allow- 
ance being  made  for  difference  of  temperature. 

Information  showing  the  practical  use  ol 
some  of  the  areometers  will  be  found  in  iSTos 
58  to  68. 

6156.  Gay  Lussac's  Heavy  Areometer 
Reduced  to  Specific  Gravity.  This  areo- 
meter ranges  from  0°  to  50°,  0°  representing 
water  at  59°  Fahr. 


percent, 
of    Alcohol 
by  Volume. 

Sp.  Grav. 

Diff. 

Per  cent, 
of  Alcohol 
by  Volume. 

Sp.   Grav. 

Diff. 

100 
95 
90 
85 
80 
75 
70 
65 

.7947 
.8168 
.8346 
.8502 
.8645 
.8799 
.8907 
.9027 

.0044 
.0036 
.0031 
•0028 
.0031 
.0022 
.0024 
.0023 

60 
55 
50 
45 
40 
35 
10 
0 

.9141 
.9248 
.9348 
.9440 
.9523 
.9595 
.9656 
1.0000 

.0021 
.0020 
.0018 
.0016 
.0014 
.0002 
.0034 

The  specific  gravity  of  the  intermediate 
degrees  is  found  as  explained  in  No.  6155,  only 
,hat  the  difference  must  be  added  instead  of 
subtracted. 
6158.    Beck's  Heavy  Areometer  Re- 
duced to  Specific  Gravity.     This  ranges 
rom  0°  to  76°,  0°  corresponding  with  water 
at  54  k°  Fahr. 

Degree. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Degree. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

0° 
5 
10 
15 
20 
25 
30 
35 
40 

1.0000 
1.0303 
1.0625 
1.0968 
1.1333 
1.1724 
1.2143 
1.2592 
1.3077 

.0061 
.0064 
.0068 
.0073 
.0078 
.0084 
.0090 
.0097 
.0105 

45° 
50 
55 
60 
65 
70 
75 
76 

1.3600 
1.4167 
1.4782 
1.5454 
1.6190 
1.7000 
1.7895 
1.8085 

.0113 
.0123 
.0134 
.0147 
.0162 
.0179 

The  specific  gravity  of  the  intermediate 
degrees  is  obtained  as  shown  in  No.  6155,  the 
differences  being  added  instead  of  subtracted. 

6159.  Beck's  Light  Areometer  Re- 
duced to  Specific  Gravity.  The  scale  on 
this  areometer  marks  from  0°  to  70°,  0°  rep- 
resenting water  at  54£°  Fahr. 


Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

0° 

1.0000 

.0057 

40° 

.8095 

.0038 

5 

.9714 

.0054 

45 

.7907 

.0036 

10 

.9444 

.0051 

50 

.7727 

.0034 

15 

.9189 

.0048 

55 

.7555 

.0033 

20 

.8947 

.0046 

60 

.7391 

.0031 

25 

.8718 

.0043 

65 

.7234 

.0030 

30 

.8500 

.0041 

70 

.7083 

35 

.8293 

.0040 

The  equivalents  of  the  intermediate  degrees 
may  be  found  by  the  method  given  in  No. 
6155. 

6160.  Dutch  Light  Areometer  Re- 
duced to  Specific  Gravity.  This  areometer 
ranges  from  0°  to  60°,  0°  denoting  water. 


Degree. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Degree. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

0° 
5 
10 
15 
20 
25 

1.0000 
1.0526 
1.1111 
1.1765 
1.2500 
1.3333 

.0105 
.0117 
.0131 
.0147 
.0167 
.0191 

30° 
35 
40 
45 
50 

1.4286 
1.5385 
1.6667 
1.8182 
2.0000 

.0220 
.0256 
.0303 
.0363 

0° 
5 
10 
15 
20 
25 
30 

1.0000 
.9664 
.9351 
.9057 
.8780 
.8521 
.8276 

.0067 
.0063 
.0059 
.0055 
.0052 
.0049 
.0046 

35° 
40 
45 
50 
55 
60 

.8045 
.7826 
.7619 
.7423 
.7236 
.7059 

.0044 
.0041 
.0039 
.0037 
.0035 

The   specific   gravity   of  the  intermediate 
degrees  is  found  in  the  same  manner  as  in  No 
6155,  only  that  the  differences  must  be  adde< 
instead  of  subtracted. 

The  specific  gravity  of  the  intermediate  de- 
grees may  be  found  in  the  same  manner  as 
directed  in  No.  6155. 

TABLES  OF  WEIGHTS,  MEASURES,  ETC. 


61 61 .    The  Heavy  Areometer  of  Brix. 

This  instrument  is  graduated  from  0°  to  200°, 
0°  denoting  water  at  60°  Fahr. 


Deg. 

Sp.  Or. 

Diff. 

Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

0° 

1.0000 

.0025 

105° 

1.3559 

.0047 

5 

1,0127 

.0026 

110 

1.3793 

.0048 

10 

1.0-256 

.0027 

115 

1.4035 

.0050 

15 

1.0390 

.0027 

120 

1.4266 

.0052 

20 

1.0526 

.0028 

125 

1.4545 

.0054 

25 

1.0667 

0029 

130 

1.4815 

.0056 

30 

1.0811 

.0029 

135 

1.5094 

.0058 

35 

1.0058 

.0030 

140 

1.5385 

.0060 

40 

1.1111 

.0031 

145 

1.5686 

.0063 

45 

1.1268 

.0032 

150 

1.6000 

.0065 

50 

1.1429 

.0033 

155 

1.6326 

.0068 

55 

1.1594 

.0034 

160 

1.6667 

.0071 

60 

1.1765 

.0035 

165 

1.7021 

.0074 

65 

1.1940 

.0036 

170 

1.7391 

.0077 

70 

1.2121 

.0037 

175 

1.7777 

.0081 

75 

1.2308 

.0038 

180 

1.8182 

.0085 

80 

1.2500 

.0039 

185 

1.8605 

.0089 

85 

1.2698 

.0040 

190 

1.9047 

.0093 

90 

1.2900 

.0042 

195 

1.9512 

.0098 

95 

1.3115 

.0044 

200 

2.0000 

100 

1.3333 

.0045 

The  specific  gravity  of  the  intermediate  de- 
grees is  obtained  as  in  No.  6155,  by  adding 
the  differences  instead  of  subtracting  them. 

6162.  The  Light  Areometer  of  Brix. 
This  areometer  is  graded  from  0°  to  200°,  0° 
corresponding  with  water  at  60°  Fahr. 


Degree. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Degree. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

0° 

1.0000 

.0025 

105° 

.7921 

.0016 

5 

.9876 

.0024 

110 

.7843 

.0015 

10 

.9756 

.0024 

115 

.7767 

.0015 

15 

.9638 

.0023 

120 

.7692 

.0015 

20 

.9524 

.0022 

125 

.7619 

.0014 

25 

.9412 

.0022 

130 

.7547 

.0014 

30 

.9302 

.0021 

135 

.7477 

.0014 

35 

.9195 

.0021 

140 

.7407 

.0014 

40 

.9091 

.0020 

145 

.7339 

.0013 

45 

.8989 

.0020 

150 

.7273 

.0013 

50 

.8889 

.0020 

155 

.7207 

.0013 

55 

.8791 

.0019 

160 

.7143 

.0013 

60 

.8696 

.0019 

165 

.7080 

.0012 

65 

.8602 

.0018 

170 

.7018 

.0012 

70 

.8511 

.0018 

175 

.6957 

.0012 

75 

.8421 

.0018 

180 

.6897 

.0012 

80 

.8333 

.0017 

185 

.6838 

.0012 

85 

.8247 

.0017 

190 

.6780 

.0011 

90 

.8163 

.0016 

195 

.6723 

.0011 

95 

.8081 

.0016 

200 

.6667 

100 

.8000 

.0016 

To  obtain  the  specific  gravity  of  the  inter- 
mediate degrees  see  No.  6155. 

6163.  Dutch  Heavy  Areometer  Re- 
duced to  Specific  Gravity.  The  range  of 
this  instrument  is  from  0°  to  75°,  0°  corre- 
sponding with  water. 


Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

0° 

1.0000 

.0072 

40° 

1.3846 

.0140 

5 

1.0359 

.0077 

45 

1.4545 

.0155 

10 

1.0746 

.0083 

50 

1.5319 

.0172 

15 

1.1163 

.0090 

55 

1.6180 

.0193 

20 

1.1613 

.0098 

60 

1.7143 

.0217 

25 

1.2101 

.0106 

65 

1.8228 

.0246 

30 

1.2631 

.0116 

70 

1.9459 

.0282 

35 

1.3211 

.0127 

75 

2.0869 

The  specific  gravity  of  the  intermediate 
degrees  is  easily  obtained  by  following  the 
directions  laid  down  in  No.  6155,  adding  the 
difference  instead  of  subtracting  it. 

6164.  Twaddel's  Areometer  Reduced 
to  Specific  Gravity.  The  range  of  this 
areometer  or  saccharometer  is  from  0°  to 
200°,  0°  corresponding  with  water. 


Degrees. 

Sp.  Grav. 

Degrees.  . 

Sp.  Gray. 

0° 

1.000 

105° 

1.525 

5 

1.025 

110 

1.550 

10 

1.050 

115 

1.575 

15 

1.075 

120 

1.600 

20 

1.100 

125 

1.625 

25 

1.125 

130 

1.650 

30 

1.150 

135 

1.675 

35 

1.175 

140 

1.700 

40 

1.200 

145 

1.725 

45 

1.225 

150 

1.750 

50 

1.250 

155 

1.775 

55 

1.275 

160 

1.800 

60 

1.300 

165 

1.825 

65 

1.325 

170 

1.850 

70 

1.350 

175 

1.875 

75 

1.375 

180 

1.900 

80 

1.400 

185 

1.925 

85 

1.425 

190 

1.950 

90 

1.450 

195 

1.975 

95 

1.475 

200 

2.000 

100 

1.500 

In  the  above  table  the  difference  between 
the  degrees  is  .005,  throughout ;  the  specific 
gravity  of  the  intermediate  degrees. can  be 
found  by  following  the  method  given  in  No. 
6155,  adding  instead  of  deducting  the  differ- 
ence. (See  No.  68.) 

6165.  Baum6's  Heavy  Areometer. 
This  instrument  marks  from  0°  to  75°,  0° 
being  water  at  63|°  Fahr. 


Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

0° 

1.0000 

.0071 

40° 

1.3746 

.0135 

5 

1.0353 

.0076 

45 

1.4421 

.0149 

10 

1.0731 

.0081 

50 

1.5166 

.0165 

15 

1.1138 

.0088 

55 

1.5992 

.0184 

20 

1.1578 

.0095 

60 

1.6914 

.0207 

25 

1.2053 

.0103 

65 

1.7948 

.0234 

30 

1.2569 

.0112 

70 

1.9117 

.0266 

35 

1.3131 

.0123 

75 

2.0448 

The  specific  gravity  of  the  intermediate  de- 
grees can  be  obtained  as  directed  in  No.  6155, 
adding  the  difference  instead  of  subtracting. 
A  ready  method  of  calculating  the  specific 
gravity  corresponding  to  the  degrees  of  this 
areometer,  sufficiently  correct  for  common 
purposes,  will  be  found  in  No.  66 ;  the  table 
given  in  No.  65  is  made  on  that  principle, 
and  based  on  1000  as  •  the  unit  representing 
water,  instead  of  1. 

6166.  Baume's  Light  Areometer. 
This  areometer  ranges  from  10°  to  60°,  10° 
denoting  water  at  54 \G  Fahr. 


Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

Deg. 

Sp.  Gr. 

Diff. 

10° 
15 
20 
25 
30 
35 

1.0000 
.9669 
.9358 
.9067 
.8794 
.8537 

.00(56 
.0062 
.0058 
.0055 
.0051 
.0049 

40° 
45 
50 
55 
60 

.8294 
.8065 
.7848 
.7642 
.7447 

.0046 
.0043 
.0041 
.0039 

MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


54=1 


The  specific  gravity  of  the  intermediate  de- 
grees is  found  by  following  the  directions 
given  in  ifo.  6155.  A  simple  method  for 
converting  the  degrees  of  this  areometer  into 
specific  gravity,  applicable  in  cases  where 
great  accuracy  is  not  required,  is  given  in 
No.  66.  A  table,  similar  to  the  above,  will 
be  found  in  No.  62,  sufficiently  accurate  for 
general  practical  purposes. 


Miscellaneous  Receipts. 
These  consist  mainly  of  such  receipts 
as  could  not  be  properly  included  in  any 
division  of  the  work ;  embracing  also  a  few 
additional  general  receipts,  whose  merits  de- 
manded their  insertion,  obtained  too  late  for 
classification  under  their  proper  headings. 

6168.  To  Prepare  Skeleton  Leaves. 
The  object  in  view  is  to  destroy  what  may  be 
called  the  fleshy  part  of  the  leaf,  as  well  as 
the  skin,  leaving  only  the  ribs  or  veins.     The 
most   successful,  and   probably  the  simplest 
way  to  do  this,  is  to  soak  the  leaves  in  rain- 
water till   they   are   decomposed.     For  this 
purpose,  when  the  leaves  are  collected,  they 
should  bo  placed  in  an  earthenware  pan  or  a 
wooden  tub,  kept   covered   with  rain-water, 
and  allowed  to  stand  in  the  sun.    In  about  2 
weeks  time  they  should  be  examined,  and  if 
found  pulpy   and  decaying,  will  be  ready  for 
skeletonizing,  for  which  process  some  cards,  a 
camel's-hair    brush,    as    well  as   one    rather 
stiff   (a  tooth-brush,   for  instance),    will   be 
required.     When  all  is  prepared,  gently  float 
a  leaf  onto  a  card,  and  with  the  soft  brush 
carefully  remove   the  skin.      Have  ready  a 
basin  of  clean  water,  and  when  the  skin  of 
one  side  is  completely  removed,  reverse  the 
card  in  the  water,  and  slip  it  under  the  leaf, 
so  that  the  other  side  is  uppermost.     Brush 
this  to  remove  the  skin,  when  the  fleshy  part 
will  most  likely  come  with  it ;  but  if  not,  it 
will  readily  wash  out  in  the  water.     If  parti- 
cle.-! of  the  green-colored  matter  still  adhere 
to  the  skeleton,  endeavor  to  remove  them 
with   the   soft   brush ;    but   if  that  is   of  no 
avail,  the  hard  one  must  be  used.     Great  care 
will  be  necessary  to  avoid  breaking  the  skele- 
ton, and  the  hard   brush  should  only  be  used 
in  a  perpendicular  direction  (a  sort  of  gentle 
tapping),  as  any  horizontal  motion  or  brush- 
ing action  will  infallibly  break  the  skeleton. 
Never  attempt   to  touch   the  leaves  or  the 
skeleton  in  this  state  with  the  fingers,  as  when 
they  are  soft  their  own  weight  will  often  break 
them.     Well-grown  leaves  should  always  be 
chosen,  and  be  thoroughly  examined  for  flaws 
before    soaking.      Leaves    containing    much 
tannin  cannot  be  skeletonized  by  this  process, 
bat  are  generally  placed  in  a  box  with  a  num- 
ber of  caddis    worms,    which   eat  away  the 
fleshy    parts,    when    the    skeletons    can    be 
bleached  by  the    method  given  in  the  next 
receipt.     Holly  leaves   must  be  placed  in  a 
separate   vessel,  on   account  of  their  spines, 
which  would  be  apt  to  damage  other  leaves ; 
they  make  beautiful  skeletons,  and  are  safli- 
cientlv  strong  to  be  moved  with  the  fingers. 
(See  No.  6170.) 

6169.  To  Bleach  Skeleton  Leaves. 
A  good  way  of  bleaching  skeleton  leaves  is 


to  prepare  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime, 
which  must  be  allowed  to  settle,  and  the 
clear  liquid  poured  into  a  basin,  in  which  the 
skeletons  may  be  put  by  floating  them  off  the 
card.  It  is  as  well  to  have  half  a  dozen 
ready  to  bleach  at  once,  as  they  require  watch- 
ing, and  if  allowed  to  remain  in  the  liquid  too 
long  will  fall  to  pieces.  From  2  to  4  hours 
will  generally  suffice  to  bleach  the  skeleton  of 
all  ordinary  leaves,  after  which  they  should 
be  washed  in  several  changes  of  water,  and 
finally  left  in  clean  water  for  ^  hour.  After  the 
leaf  has  been  sufficiently  washed  it  should  be 
floated  onto  a  card  and  dried  as  quickly  as 
possible,  care  being  taken  to  arrange  the 
skeleton  perfectly  flat,  and  as  near  as  possible 
to  the  natural  shape.  This  can  be  done  with 
the  assistance  of  the  soft  brush.  When  dry 
the  skeleton  should  be  perfectly  white,  and 
may  be  mounted  on  dark  backgrounds,  as 
black  velvet  or  paper.  (See  No.  6171.) 

6170.  Quick  Method   of  Preparing 
Skeleton  Leaves.     A  solution  of   caustic 
soda  is  to  be  made  by  dissolving  3  ounces 
washing  soda  in  2  pints  boiling  water,  and 
adding  1J  ounces  quicklime  previously  slack- 
ed ;  boil  for  10  minutes,  decant  the  clear  solu- 
tion, and  bring  it  to  the  boil.     During  ebulli- 
tion add  the  leaves ;  boil  briskly  for  about  au 
hour,  occasionally  adding  hot  water  to  supply 
the  place  of  that  lost  by  evaporation.     Take 
out  a  leaf,  put  it  into  a  vessel  of  water,  and 
rub  it  between  the  fingers  under  the  water. 
If  the  skin  and  pulpy  matter  separate  easily, 
the  rest  of  the  leaves  may  be  removed  from 
the  solution,  and  treated  in  the  same  way; 
but  if  not,  then  the  boiling  must  be  continued 
for  some  time  longer.     (See  No.  6168.) 

6171.  To  Bleach  Skeleton  Leaves. 
To  bleach  the  skeleton  leaves,  mix  about  1 
drachm  chloride  of  lime  with  1  pint  water, 
adding  sufficient  acetic  acid  to  liberate  the 
chlorine.     Steep  the  leaves  in  this  until  they 
are  whitened  (about  10  minutes),  taking  care 
not  to  let  them  stay  in  too  long,  as  they  are 
apt  to  become  brittle.     Put  them  into  clean 
water,  and  float  them  out  on  pieces  of  paper. 
Lastly,  remove  them  from  the  paper  before 
they  are  quite  dry,  and  place  them  in  a  book 
or  botanical  press.     They  look  best  when 
mounted  on  black  velvet  or  paper.     (See  No. 
6169.) 

6172.  To  Stain  Dried  Grass.    There 
are  few  prettier  ornaments,  and  none  more 
economical  and    lasting,  than    bouquets    of 
dried  grasses,  mingled  with  the  various  un- 
changeable   flowers.      They    have    but    one 
fault ;  and  that  is,  the  want  of  other  colors 
besides  yellow  and  drab  or  brown.     To  vary 
their    shade,    artificially,  these    flowers    are 
sometimes  dyed  green.     This,  however,  is  in 
bad  taste,  and  unnatural.    The  best  effect  is 
produced  by  blending  rose  and  red  tints,  to- 
gether with  a  very  little  pale  blue,  with  the 
grasses  and  flowers,  as  they  drv  naturally. 
The  best  means  of  dyeing  dried  leaves,  flow- 
ers, and  grasses,  is  to  dip  them  into  the  spirit- 
uous liquid  solution  of  the  various  compounds 
of  analine.     (See  Nos.  2552,  $c.)    Some  of 
these  have  a  beautiful  rose  shade ;  others  red, 
blue,  orange,  and  purple.     The  depth  of  color 
can  be  regulated  by  diluting,  if  necessary,  the 
original  dyes,  with  spirit,  down  to  the  shade 
desired.     When  taken  out  of  the  dye  they 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


should  be  exposed  to  the  air  to  dry  off  the 
spirit.  They  then  require  arranging,  or  set- 
ting into  form,  as,  when  wet,  the  petals  and 
fine  filaments  have  a  tendency  to  cling  to- 

f ether.  A  pink  saucer,  as  sold  by  most 
ruggists,  will  supply  enough  rose  dye  for 
two  ordinary  bouquets.  The  pink  saucer 
yields  the  best  rose  dye  by  washing  it  off 
with  water  and  lemon  juice.  The  analine 
dyes  yield  the  best  violet,  mauve,  and  purple 
colors. 

6173.  Artificial  Coral.     Melt  together 
yellow  resin,  4  parts ;  vermilion,  1  part.   This 
gives  a  very  pretty   effect  to   glass,   twigs, 
raisin  stalks,  cinders,  stones,  <fcc.,  dipped  into 
the  mixture  and  dried. 

6174.  To  Copy  Ferns.     Dip  them  well 
in  common  porter,  and  then  lay  them   fiat 
between  white  sheets  of  paper,   with  slight 
pressure,  and  let  them  dry  out. 

6175.  To  Preserve  Natural  Flowers. 
Dip  the  flowers  in  melted  parafline,  withdraw- 
ing them  quickly.     The  liquid  should  be  only 
just  hot  enough  to  maintain  its  fluidity,  and 
the  flowers  should  be  dipped  one  at  a  time, 
held  by  the  stalks  and  moved  about  for  an 
instant  to  get  rid  of  air  bubbles.      Fresh-cut 
flowers,  free  from  moisture,  make  excellent 
specimens  in  this  way. 

6176.  To  Collect  and  Preserve  Speci- 
mens of  Plants.     To  form  what  is  called  the 
liortus  siccus,  or  herbarium,  various  methods 
are   employed,   but  the  following  is  recom- 
mended as  the  most  simple.      The  articles  re- 
quisite for  the  purpose  consist  of  a  dozen 
quires  of  smooth  soft  paper  of  a  large  size,  6 
boards  of  about  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  4 
iron  or  lead  weights,  two  of  them  about  30 
pounds,  and  the  two  others  about  half  that 
weight,  and  a  botanical  box  of  tin,  and  of  such 
dimensions  as  shall  be  most  convenient  for  the 
collector.     The  plants  to  be  preserved  ought, 
if  possible,   to  be  gathered  in  dry  weather ; 
but  if  the  weather  be  wet  they  should  be  laid 
out  for  some  time  on  a  table  till  partially 
dried,  and  when  the  roots  are  taken  up  along 
with  the  stems,  they  must  be  washed  and  then 
exposed  to  the  air  for  the  same  purpose. 

6177.  To  Preserve  Plants.      Lay  over 
one  of  the  boards  two  or  three  sheets  of  the 
paper  described  in  the  last  receipt.     On  the 
uppermost  sheet  spread  out  the  specimen  to 
bo  preserved,  unfolding  its  parts  so  as  to  give 
it  as  natural  an  appearance  as  possible,  laying 
out  the  leaves  aud  flowers  with  particular 
care.     Over  the  specimen  thus  disposed  of 
place  several  sheets  of  paper ;  on  the  upper- 
most sheet  spread  out  another  specimen,  and 
so  proceed  till  all  the  plants  intended  to  be 
preserved  are  laid  down  ;  and  having  put  over 
the  whole  some  more  sheets  of  paper,  place  a 
board  over  them  with  the  weights  upon  it, 
which  may  be  a  number  of  clean  bricks,  if 
iron  or  lead  weights  cannot  conveniently  bo 
procured.     As  some  plants  are  delicate  and 
flexible,  and  others  comparatively  thick  and 
hard,  the  former  class  will  require  less  weight 
tu  be  placed  over  them,   and  the  latter  con- 
siderably more. 

6178.  To   Preserve   the   Color    and 
Shape  of  Plants  when  Drying.     To  pre- 
serve the  color  of  flowers  when  drying,  the 
greatest  care  is  required    in    changing    the 
papers  every  second  day,  which  papers  oughj; 


first  to  be  well  dried  at  the  fire.  T\7ith  regard 
to  keeping  the  shape  of  flowers,  the  utmost 
care  and  attention  is  necessary  when  arrang- 
ing them  on  the  paper ;  this  can  be  done  by 
having  another  piece  <tf  paper  and  gently  lay- 
ing it  on  part  of  the  flower ;  the  part  of  the 
flower  so  covered  with  the  paper  ought  to 
have  a  small  book  placed  on  it.  Then  begin 
and  lay  out  the  other  leaves  of  the  flower, 
and  also  press  it,  and  so  on,  until  each  part 
has  had  the  gentle  pressure  necessary  to  keep 
it  in  position.  Let  them  remain  so  for  a  short 
time,  and  then  put  some  heavy  weight  on 
them ;  look  at  them  next  day,  and  change  the 
damp  paper.  Ferns  may  be  kept  for  years 
quite  fresh  in  color  by  this  simple  mode  of 
drying.  In  3  or  4  days  the  plants  thus  treated 
should  be  taken  out,  together  with  the  paper 
in  which  they  have  been  deposited,  and  laid 
in  fresh  paper  with  3  or  4  sheets  between 
every  2  plants,  and  the  board  aud  weights  laid 
upon  them  as  before.  This  process  must  be 
continued  till  the  plants  are  perfectly  dried. 
Each  specimen  is  then  to  be  placed  on  a  sheet 
of  dry  paper,  along  with  a  memorandum  of 
the  name  of  the  plant,  the  place  and  time  at 
which  it  was  gathered,  the  character  of  the 
soil  from  which  it  was  taken,  and  any  other 
particulars  tending  to  illustrate  its  character 
and  history. 

6179.  "To  Mount  Small  Insects  for 
the  Microscope.       Mounting  small  insects 
for  the  microscope,  such  as  parasites  and  acari 
from  birds,  beetles,  <tc.,  may  be  performed  by 
placing  the  live  insect  on  the  inside  of  a  sheet 
of  tolerable  good  note  paper,  folded,  and  when 
in  the  act  of  running,  closing  the  paper  and 
pressing  it  tightly  in  a  book.      By  this  means 
the  legs  and  antennae  may  be  nicely  extended, 
all   the   expressed  moisture  absorbed  by  the 
paper,  and  the  skin  left  apparently  unbroken. 
It  should  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  book 
about  2  days,   when  it  may  be  carefully  re- 
moved from  the  paper,  put  in  a  turpentine 
bath,  and  afterwards  mounted  in  balsam  in 
the  usual  way.     (See  Xo.  6180.) 

6180.  To    Mount    Microscopic    Ob- 
jects in  Canada  Balsam.     "Warm  the  glass 
slips,   <fec.,  to  a  temperature  just  below  the 
boiling  heat  of  water.      If  there  is  any  doubt 
of  the  balsam  penetratiDg  all  the  interstices 
and  readily  adhering  to  the  specimens,  it  will 
be  well  to  pour  a  few  drops  of  clear  turpen- 
tine upon  the  specimens,  which  will  greatly 
facilitate   the   taking  of  the  balsam ;  the  lat- 
ter, howeVer,  must  not  be  used  until  the  tur- 
pentine has  nearly  evaporated.     The  moment 
when  the  balsam  is  to  be  added  with  the  best 
effect  can  only   be    known    by    experience. 
Clear  old  Canada  balsam  is  the  best  suited  for 
these  purposes.      "When  used  it  must  also  be 
heated  to  a  temperature  just  below  boiling 
water,  and  then  poured  upon  the  object,  pre- 
viously arranged  upon  a  slip  of  glass.     The 
top  slip  of  glass,  which  is  usually  smaller  and 
thinner  than  the  under  one,  is  now  to  be  placed 
upon  it ;  one  end  of  each  slip  being  brought 
into  contact  first,   and   then    the    other  al- 
lowed to  fall  upon  it.      By  this  means  no  air- 
bubbles  will  be  enclosed.     The  exact  quantity 
of  balsam  must  be  learned  by  practice.     Of 
two  faults,  namely,  too  much  or  too  little,  the 
former  is  to  be  preferred.     Be  careful   not  to 
press  the  glasses  together  too  hard,  otherwise, 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


54:3 


on  the  removal  of  the  pressure,  the  air  will 
enter  between  the  glasses,  and  the  preparation 
will  be  spoilt.  Having  thus  mounted  the  ob- 
ject, it  must  be  slowly  dried  in  a  warm  situa- 
tion. This  will  take  1  or  2  days ;  after  which 
the  slide  is  to  be  cleaned  by  scraping  off  the 
surplus  balsam  with  a  strip  of  plate  glass. 
Finally,  wipe  it  clean,  using  first  a  linen  rag 
moistened  with  turpentine,  and  then  a  piece 
of  dry  clean  leather. 

6181.  Marvels  of  tlie  Microscope.    A 
beautiful  and  easily  produced  exhibition  of 
crystal  formation  may  be    seen    under   the 
microscope  as  follows  :  Upon  a  slip  of  glass, 
place  a  drop  of  liquid  chloride  of  gold  or  ni- 
trate of  silver,  with  a  particle  of  zinc  in  the 
gold  and  copper  in  the  silver.      A  growth  of 
exquisite   gold   or   silver  ferns  will  vegetate 
under  the  observer's  delighted  eye. 

6182.  To  Prepare  a  Skeleton.    After 
cutting  off  as  much  flesh  and  cartilage  from 
the  bones  as  possible,  boil  them  in  water  till 
the  remainder  easily  separates.     The  French 
still  further  prepare  their  skeletons  by  bleach- 
ing for  a  short  time  in  a  weak  solution  of 
chloride  of  lime. 

6183.  Phial  Barometer.     Take  a  com- 
mon phial  and  cut  off  the  rim  and  part  of  the 
neck  with  a  file.      This  may  also  be  effected 
by  means  of  a  piece  of  cord  passed  round  it, 
and  moved  rapidly  to  and  fro,  in  a  sawing 
direction  ;  the  one  end  being  held  in  the  left 
hand  and  the  other  fastened  to  any  convenient 
object,  while  the  righthand  holds  and  moves  the 
phial ;  when  heated,  dip  it  suddenly  into  cold 
water,  and  the  part  will  crack  off.     (See  Nos. 
2368,  ^-c.)    Then  nearly  fill  the  phial  with 
clean  water,  place  your  finger  on  the  mouth, 
and  invert  it ;  withdraw  your  finger,  and  sus- 
pend it  in  this  position  with  a  piece  of  wire  or 
twine.     In  dry  weather  the  under  surface  of 
the  water  will  be  level  with  the  neck  of  the 
bottle,  or  even  concave ;  in  damp  weather,  on 
the  contrary,  a  drop  will  appear  at  the  mouth 
and  continue  until  it  falls,  and  is  then  followed 
by  another  in  the  same  way. 

6184.  The  Chemical  Barometer,  or 
Storm  Glass.      Take  a  long  narrow  bottle, 
such  as  an  old-fashioned  eau-de-Cologne  bot- 
tle, and  put  into  it  2i  drachms  of  camphor 
and  11  drachms  of  spirit  of  wine ;  when  the 
camphor  is  dissolved,  which  it  will  readily  do 
by  slight  agitation,  add  the  following  mixture: 
Take  water,    9  drachms;    nitrate  of  potassa 
(saltpetre),  38  grains  ;  and  muriate  of  ammo- 
nia (sal  ammoniac),  38  grains.    Dissolve  these 
salts  in   the   water  before  mixing  with  the 
camphorated  spirit;    then  shake  the  whole 
well  together.     Cork  the  bottle  well,  and  wax 
the  top,   but  afterwards  make  a  very  small 
aperture   in   the  cork  with  a  red-hot  needle. 
The  bottle  may  then  be  hung  up,  or  placed  in 
any  stationary  position.      By  observing  the 
different  appearances  which  the  materials  as- 
sume as  the  weather  changes,  it  becomes  an 
excellent  prognosticator  of  a  coming  storm  or 
of  a  sunny  sky. 

6185.  To  Teach  a  Parrot  to  Speak. 
The  quickest  way  is  to  send  the  bird,  if  possi- 
ble,  where   there  is  another  parrot  who  can 
speak.     They  should  be  placed  near  enough  to 
hear,  but  not  see  each  other,  and  the  one  will 
soon  imitate  the  other.      A   good  way  is  to 
speak  to  the  bird  at  night ;  just  when  his  cage 


has  been  covered  over  (which must  always  be 
done  with  a  woolen  rug  in  winter)  repeat  over 
several  times  in  the  same  tone  the  sentence 
you  wish  him  to  learn.  He  may  not  appear 
to  notice  at  first,  but  some  day,  quite  unex- 
pectedly, he  will  repeat  the  sentence  exactly 
in  the  same  tone  that  he  has  heard  it.  He 
should  at  once  be  rewarded  with  a  bit  of 
sugar,  or  fruit,  or  any  little  dainty  that  he  is 
fond  of.  They  are  very  quick  at  understand- 
ing that  rewards  are  given  for  obedience. 
Never  allow  a  parrot  to  be  startled  or  teased, 
or  permit  it  to  be  fed  indiscriminately  by 
visitors.  Keep  the  cage  extremely  clean ;  let 
it  be  wiped  out  and  fresh  sand  given  every 
day.  Some  birds  drink  very  little,  but  they 
should  always  be  able  to  get  a  drink  of  fresh- 
water if  they  wish.  It  is  also  a  good  plan  to 
let  a  small  quantity  of  canary  sect}  be  in  the 
seed-can ;  it  is  possible  that  the  morning 
bread  and  milk  may  be  forgotten,  and  the 
seed  will  thus  prevent  the  bird  being  starved. 

6186.  Etching  Shells.      This  is  done 
by  means  of  acid.     The  parts  not  to  be  acted 
upon  must  be  protected  by  a  so-called  etch- 
ing-ground, which  consists  of  a  thin  layer  of 
varnish  blackened  in  a  flame  so  as  to  see 
plainly  the  figures  afterward  drawn  on  it.    Be 
careful,  when  doing  this,  to  make  a  clear  draw- 
ing or  writing  in  which  the  shell  is  exposed 
at  the  bottom  of  every  line,  as  any  remaining 
varnish  would  protect  those  parts,  and  the 
writing  would    not    be    brought  out.      The 
acid,   either  strong  acetic,  diluted  nitric,  or 
muriatic,  is  then  applied,  and  when  its  action 
is  sufficient  it  is  washed  off  with  water,  the 
varnish  is  rubbed  off  with  turpentine  or  alco- 
hol, when  the  drawing  or  lettering  will  ap- 
pear, and  look  as  if  cut  in  with  an  engraver's 
tool.    The  design  may  also  be  drawn  with 
varnish  on  the  shell  by  means  of  a  fine  brush, 
then  the  acid  will  dissolve  the  surface  around 
the  lines  drawn,  and  the  writing  will  appear 
in  relief,  the  letters  being  elevated  in  place  of 
being  sunk  in  as  by  the  former  process.     The 
latter  is  the  more  common  way  in  which  these 
shells  are  treated.     This  method  is  applied  to 
many  other  objects ;  all  that  is  wanted  being 
a  liquid  dissolving  the  material  to  be  acted 
upon,   and  a  varnish  to  protect  some  parts 
from  its  action. 

6187.  To  Clean  Shells.      Make  lye  by 
boiling  strong  ashes,  allow  it  to  settle ;  pour 
the  lye  over  the  shells,  and  boil  them  6  or  7 
hours,  or  longer  if  they  are  large ;  then  soak, 
and  wash  often  in  fresh  water. 

6188.  To  Color  Shells.    Dissolve  a  little 
lac  dye  in  a  solution  of  chloride  of  tin ;  and 
having  made  the  shells  thoroughly  clean,  dip 
them  in  this  preparation  until  they  are  of  tho 
desired  color.     The  dye  should  be  first  boiled, 
and  then  allowed  to  stand  to  settle. 

6189.  To  Keep  Gold-Fish.    Gold-fish 
must  bo  kept  in  a  vessel  of  sufficient  capacity, 
and  be  given  fresh  water  every  day,  or  at 
least  every  other  day.     It  is  best  to  clean  the 
vessel  then,  by  washing  it  inside  with  a  cloth. 
The  fresh  water  ought  to  be  clean,  and  not 
too  hard.     It  is  not  good  to  feed  them,  as  tho 
food  will  only  serve  to  render  the  water  unfit 
for  their  existence,  and  if  renewed  every  day, 
the  water  itself  furnishes  them  with  enough 
material  for  their  sustenance.      Fish  kept  in 
this  way  generally  perish  from  want  of  oxy- 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


gen.  Anything,  therefore,  -which  consumes  it 
ought  to  be  avoided,  and  this  is  a  reason  for 
not  giving  them  any  food.  Green  leaves  of 
living  plants  have  an  opposite  effect,  and  they 
may  be  kept  for  this  purpose  in  fish-bowls  ; 
they  absorb  the  carbonic  acid  in  the  water  ex- 
haled by  the  fish,  giving  off  oxygen,  which  is 
in  turn  taken  up  by  the  fish  and  reconverted 
into  carbonic  acid. 

6190.  Food  for  Mocking-Birds.     Mix 
together  2  parts  corn-meal,  2  parts  pea-meal, 
and  1  part  moss-meal ;   add  a  little  melted 
lard,  but  not  sufficient  to  make  the  mixture 
too  greasy,  and  sweeten  with  molasses.    Fry 
in  a  frying-pan  for  k  hour,  stirring  constantly, 
and  taking  care  not  to  let  it  burn ;  this  makes 
it  keep  well.     Put  it  in  a  covered  jar.    The 
moss-meal  is  prepared  by  drying  and  grinding 
the  imported  German  moss-seed. 

6191.  German   Paste   for    Feeding 
Singing-Birds.    Blanched  sweet  almonds,  1 
pound;  pea-meal,  2  pounds;  butter, Bounces; 
saffron,  a  few  grains ;  honey,  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity.   Form  the  whole  into  a  paste,  and  gran- 
ulate it  by  pressing  it  through  a  cullender. 
Some  add  the  yolks  of  2  eggs. 

6192.  How   to    See   Under  Water. 
The  Indians  of  North  America  do  this  by  cut- 
ting a  hole  through  the  ice,  and  then  covering 
or  hanging  a  blanket,  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
darken  or  exclude  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun, 
when  they  are  enabled  to  see  into  the  water, 
and  discover  fish  at  any  reasonable  depth. 
Let  any  one  who  is  anxious  to  prove  this, 
place  himself  under  the  blanket,  and  he  will 
be  astonished  when  he  beholds  with  what  a 
brilliancy  everything  in  the  fluid  world  is 
lighted  up.     A  correspondent  of  the  Scientific 
American  says :    "  I  once  had  occasion   to 
examine  the  bottom  of  a  mill  pond,  for  which 
I  constructed  a  float  out  of  inch  boards,  suffi- 
cient to  buoy  me  up ;  through  the  centre  of 
this  float  I  cut  a  hole,  and  placed  a  blanket 
over  it,  when  I  was  enabled  to  clearly  dis- 
cover objects  on  the  bottom,  and  several  lost 
tools  were  discovered  and  picked  up.    I  am 
satisfied  that,   where    water    is    sufficiently 
clear,  this  latter  plan  could  be  successfully 
used  for  searching  for  lost  bodies  and  arti- 
cles." 

6193.  19  Prepare  Soap  for  Bubbles. 
Dissolve  castile  soap  in  strong  alcohol ;  let  it 
settle,  or  filter,  and  take  the  clear  solution, 
from  which  evaporate  the  alcohol.    The  solid 
residue  is  oleate  of  soda.    To  this  add  half 
its  weight  of  glycerine  and  sufficient  water  to 
give  the  proper  consistency.    The  beauty  of 
the  experiments  will  compensate  for  all  the 
trouble. 

6194.  To  Produce  Large  and  Long- 
lasting  Soap-Bubbles.      For  the  produc- 
tion ol    unusually   large    soap-bubbles    that 
will  last  for  hours,  and  exhibit  splendidly  the 
beautiful  colors  of  the  rainbow,  a  fluid  may 
be  employed  that  can  easily  be  prepared  in 
the  following  way ;  Fine  shavings  of  palm- 
oil  soap  are  shaken  in  a  large  bottle  with  dis- 
tilled water,  until  a  concentrated  solution  of 
the  soap  is  obtained ;  this  is  filtered  through 
gray  filtering  paper,  and   then  mixed  with 
about  one-third  its  bulk  of  pure  glycerine. 
The  fluid  is  to  be  shaken  up  before  use.     By 
means  of  a  small  glass  funnel,  of  two  inches 
diameter,  connected  with  a  tube  of  india-rub- 


ber, soap-bubbles  may  be  prepared  with  this 
fluid,  that  will  vie  in  beauty  of  color  with  the 
rainbow  itself,  and  which  may  be  kept  for  a 
long  while  by  putting  them  carefully  upon  an 
iron  ring  which  is  slightly  rusty  and  thorough- 
ly wet  with  the  soap  solution.  Bubbles  of 
1  foot  and  more  in  diameter  will  keep  from  5 
to  10  minutes ;  those  of  2  or  3  inches  in  diam- 
eter will  retain  their  form  for  10  or  12  hours. 

6195.  To   Transfer    Ornaments   for 
Carriages,   Wagons,   &c.     This  beautiful 
art  is  now  practiced  by  many  painters,  for 
the  sake  of  economy  of  time  and  labor.    De- 
calcornine  pictures  expressly  designed  for  car- 
riages are  now  sold  at  the  leading  stationers' 
stores,  and  the  amateur  painter  is  enabled 
thereby  to  finish  a  job  of  carriage  painting  in 
fine  style.    These  pictures  may  be  stuck  on, 
and  the  dampened  paper  carefully  removed, 
leaving  the  picture  iutact  upon  the  panel,  re- 
quiring no  touching  with  the  pencil. 

6196.  To   Apply   Decalcomine   Pic- 
tures.    The  proper  way  to  put  on  decalco- 
mine  pictures  is  to  varnish  the  picture  care- 
fully with  the  prepared  varnish  (which  can 
be  obtained  with  the  pictures),  with  an  or- 
namenting pencil,  being  sure  not  to  get  the 
varnish  on  the  white  paper.     In  a  few  min- 
utes the  picture  will  be  ready  to  lay  on  the 
panel,  and  the  paper  can  be  removed  by  wet- 
ting it ;  and  when  thoroughly  dry,  it  should 
be  varnished  like  an  oil  painting.      Bo  partic- 
ular to  purchase  only  those  transfer  pictures 
which  are  covered  with  gold  leaf  on  the  back, 
for  they  will  show  plainly  on  any  colored 
surface,  while  the  plain  pictures  are  used  only 
on  white  or  light  grounds.     They  may  be 
procured  at  any  stationery  store,  and  the  cost 
is  trifling. 

6197.  Lead  for  Pencils.     The  easiest 
way  of  producing  not  only  black  lead,  but  all 
sorts  of  pencils,  is  by  the  following  process, 
which  combines  simplicity,   cheapness,   and 
quality.     Take  white  or  pipe  clay,  put  it  into 
a  tub  of  clear  water,  to  soak  for  12  hours, 
then  agitate  the  whole  until    it    resembles 
milk  ;  let  it  rest  2  or  3  minutes,  and  pour  off 
the  supernatant  milky  liquor  into   a  second 
vessel ;  then  allow  it  to  settle,  pour  off  the 
clear  water,  and  dry  the  residue  on  a  filter. 
Then  add  black  load  in  any  quantity.     Pow- 
der it,  and  calcine  it  at  a  white  heat  in  a 
loosely  covered  crucible ;  cool,  and  most  care- 
fully repulverize;  then  add  prepared  clay  and 
prepared  plumbago,  equal  parts.     Make  into 
a  paste  with  water,  and  put  into  oiled  moulds 
01  the  size  required;  dry  very  gradually,  and 
apply  sufScicnt  heat  to  give  the  required  de- 
gree of  hardness — the  pieces  to  be  taken  care- 
fully from  the  moulds   and    placed    in    the 
grooves   of  the   cedar.     The  more   clay  and 
heat  employed,  the  harder  the  crayon ;   less 
clay  and  heat  produce  a  contrary  effect.     The 
moulds  must  be  made  of  4  pieces  of  wood, 
nicely  fitted  together. 

6198.  Artificial  Sea  Water  for  Aqua- 
ria.      A    rough   imitation   of  sea   water  is 
formed  by  mixing  100  ounces  of  fresh  water 
with  3  ounces  common  salt,  1  ounce  Epsom 
salts,  200  grains  chloride  of  magnesium,  and 
40   grains  chloride   of  potassium.     Or,  more 
precisely,  the  real  constitution  of  sea-water 
may  be  imitated  in  the  following   manner : 
Mix  with  970,000  grains  rain  water  27,000  of 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


54,5 


chloride  of  sodium,  3600  of  chloride  of  mag- 
nesium, 750  of  chloride  of  potassium,  29  of 
bromide  of  magnesium,  2300  of  sulphate  of 
magnesia,  1400  of  sulphate  of  lime,  35  of  car- 
bonate of  lime,  5  of  iodide  of  sodium.  These 
all  being  finely  powdered  and  mixed  first,  are 
to  be  stirred  into  the  water,  through  which  a 
stream  of  air  may  be  caused  to  pass  from  the 
bottom  until  the  whole  is  dissolved.  On  no 
account  is  the  water  to  bo  boiled,  or  even 
heated.  Into  this  water,  -when  clear,  the 
rocks  and  sea- weed  may  bo  introduced.  As 
soon  as  the  latter  are  in  a  flourishing  state, 
the  animals  may  follow.  Care  must  bo  taken 
not  to  have  too  many  of  these,  and  to  remove 
immediately  any  that  die.  The  loss  by  evap- 
oration is  to  be  made  up  by  adding  clean 
rain  water.  The  aquarium,  whether  of  fresh 
or  of  salt  water,  will  require  occasionally  arti- 
ficial aeration.  This  may  be  done  by  simply 
blowing  through  a  glass  tube  which  reaches 
to  near  the  bottom,  or,  better  still,  in  the  fol- 
lowing way :  Take  a  glass  syringe  which  can 
be  easily  worked.  Having  filled  it  with  wa- 
ter, hold  it  with  the  nozzle  about  2  inches 
from  the  surface  of  the  water  intho  aquarium, 
into  which  the  contents  are  to  be  discharged 
quickly,  and  with  a  sort  of  jerk.  By  this 
means  a  multitude  of  small  bubbles  are 
forced  down  into  tho  fluid.  This  operation 
should  be  repeated  for  a  considerable  number 
of  times. 

6199.  To  Prevent  Stair  Carpets  from 
Wearing.    Stair  carpets  should  always  have 
it  slip  of  paper  put  under  them,  at  and  over 
the  edge  ot  every  stair,  which  is  the  part 
where  they  wear  first,  in  order  to  lessen  the 
friction  of  the  carpet  against  tho  boards  be- 
neath.   The  strips  should  be  within  an  inch 
or  two  as  long  as  the  carpet  i  i  wide  and  about 
4  or  5  inches  in  breadth.    A  piece  of  old  car- 
pet answers  better  than  paper  if  you  have  it. 
This  plan  will  keep  a  stair  carpet  in  good 
condition  fyr  a  much  longer  time  than  with- 
out it. 

6200.  To  Make  an  .ffiolian  Harp.     Of 
very  thin  cedar,  pine,  or  other  soft  wood,  make 
a  box  5  or  6  inches  deep,  7  or  8  inches  wide, 
and  of  a  length  just  equal  to  the  width  of  the 
window  in  which  it  is  to  bo  placed.      Across 
the  top,  near  each  end,  glue  a  strip  of  wood  k 
inch  high  and  i  inch  thick,  for  bridges.    Into 
the  ends  of  tho  box  insert  wooden  pins,  like 
those  of  a  violin,  to  wind  tho  strings  around, 
two  pins  in  each  end.      Make  a  sound-hole  in 
the  middle  of  tho  top,  and  string  tho  box  with 
small  cat-gut,  or  bluo  violin  strings.    Fasten- 
ing one  end  of  each  string  to  the  wooden  pin 
in  one  end  of  the  box,  and  carrying  it  over  the 
bridges,  wind  it  around  tho  turning-pin  in  the 
opposite  end  of  the  box.     The  ends  of  the  box 
should  be  increased  in  thickness  where  the 
wooden  pins  enter,  by  a  piece  of  wood  glued 
upon  the  inside.     Tune  the  strings  in  unison 
and  place  the  box  in  tho  window.    It  is  better 
to  have  4  strings,  as  described,  but  a  harp 
with  a  single  string  produces  an  exceedingly 
sweet  melody  of  notes,  which  vary  with  the 
force  of  the  wind. 

6201.  To  Remove  the  Disagreeable 
Taste  from  New  Wooden  Vessels.    First 
scald  them  with  boiling  water,  then  dissolve 
some   pearlash  or  soda  in  lukewarm  water, 
adding  a  little  lime  to  it,  and  wash  the  inside 


of  the  vessel  well  with  the  solution.  After- 
wards scald  it  well  with  plain  hot  water  before 
using. 

6202.  To  Preserve  Ribbons  and  Silks. 
Ribbons  and  other  silks  should  be  put  away 
for  preservation  in  brown  paper ;  the  chloride 
of  lime  used  in  manufacturing  white  paper 
frequently  produces  discoloration.      A  white 
satin  dress  should  be  pinned  in  blue  paper, 
with  brown  paper  outside,  sewn  together  at 
the  edges. 

6203.  To   Make   Feather   Brushes. 
Boil  tho  wing  feathers  of  a  turkey  or  chicken 
for  5  or  10  minutes,  then  rinse  them  in  tepid 
water,  dry  them  and  tie  them  up  in  bunches 
to  use  in  greasing  pans  and  for  brushing  egg 
over  tarta  or  yastry. 

6204.  Remedy  for  Frozen  Potatoes. 
In  time  of  frost,  potatoes  that  have   been 
affected  thereby  should  be  laid  in  a  perfectly 
dark  place  for  some  days  after  the  thaw  has 
commenced.      If  thawed  in  open  day  they 
rot ;  but  if  in  darkness,  they  do  not  rot ;  and 
they  lose  very  little  of  their  natural  proper- 
ties. 

6205.  To  Make  Fire  Kindlers.    Take 
a  quart  of  tar  and  3  pounds  of  resin,  melt 
them,  bring  to  a  cooling  temperature,  mix 
with  as  much  coarse  sawdust,  with  a  little 
charcoal  added,  as  can  be  worked  in ;  spread 
out  while  hot  upon  a  board ;  when  cold,  break 
up  into  lumps  of  the  size  of  a  large,  hickory 
nut,  and  you  have,  at  a  small  expense,  kind- 
ling material  enough  for  a  household  for  one 
year.     They  will  easily  ignite  from  a  match 
and  burn  with  a  strong  blaze,  long  enough  to 
start  any  wood  that  is  fit  to  burn. 

6206.  To  Loosen  Ground  Glass  Stop- 
pers.    Sometimes  the  ground  glass  stoppers 
of  bottles  become,  from  one  cause  or  another, 
fixed  in  the  neck,  and  cannot  be  removed  by 
pulling  or  twisting.    An  effectual  method  is  to 
wrap  a  rag  wet  with  hot  water  around  tha 
neck  and  let  it  remain  a  few  seconds.    The 
heat  will  expand  tho  neck  of  the  bottle,  when 
the  stopper  can  be  removed  before  the  heat 
penetrates    the    stopper  itself.      Or,  wind  a 
string  onco  or  twice  around  the  neck,  and, 
holding  tho  bottle  between  the  knees,  pull 
alternately  on  one  and  the  other  end,  thus 
creating  friction,  and  consequently  heat.      Or 
a  little  camphene  dropped  between  the  neck 
and  stopper  of  the  bottle  will  often  relieve  the 
stopper. 

6207.  To  Remove  a  Glass  Stopper. 
The  most  effectual  mode  of  removing  stop- 
pers, especially  those  of  small  bottles,  such  as 
smelling-bottles,  is  as  follows :  Take  a  piece  of 
strong  cord,  about  a  yard  or  4  feet  in  length, 
double  it  at  the  middle,  and  tie  a  knot  (Fig.  I, 
6)  so  as  to  form  a  loop  (a)  of  about  4  inches 


Fig.  1. 


in  length ;  at  the  doubled  end,  bring  the  knot 
close  to  one  side  of  the  stopper,  and  tie  the 
ends  tightly  together  on  the  opposite  side,  as 
at  Fig.  2  (e)  so  as  to  fasten  the  string  securely 
round  the  neck  of  the  stopper ;  now  pass  one 
of  the  ends  through  the  loop  (a),  and.then  tie 
it  firmly  to  the  other  end ;  the  doubled  cord 


546 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


is  then  to  be  placed  over  a  bar  or  other  sup- 
port, then  if  the  bottle  is  surrounded  by  a 
cloth,  to  prevent  accident  in  case  of  fracture, 
and  pulled  downwards  with  a  jerk,  the  force 
of  which  is  gradually  increased,  it  will  be 
found  that  in  a  short  time  the  stopper  is  liber- 


Fig.  2. 

ated.  Two  precautions  are  requisite— one  is, 
that  the  strain  on  both  sides  of  the  stopper 
is  equal ;  the  other,  that  care  be  taken  that 
when  the  stopper  is  liberated,  it  is  not  dashed 
by  the  rebound  against  any  hard  substance, 
which  would  cause  its  fracture. 

6208.  To  Keep  Up  Sash  Windows. 
This  is  performed  oy  means  of  cork,  in  the 
simplest  manner,  and  with  scarcely  any  ex- 
pense.   Bore  3  or  4  holes  in  the  sides  of  the 
sash,  into  which  insert  common  bottle-cork, 
projecting  about  the  sixteenth  part  of  an  inch. 
These  will  press  against  the  window  frames 
along  the  usual  groove,  and  by  their  elasticity 
support  the  sash  at  any  height  which  may  be 
required. 

6209.  How    to    Treat    a    Burning 
Chimney.     If  it  is  desired  to  extinguish  the 
fire  in  a  chimney  which  has  been  lighted  by  a 
fire  in  the  fireplace,  shut  all  the  doors  of  the 
apartment  so  as  to  prevent  any  current  of  air 
up  the  chimney,  then  throw  a  few  handfuls  of 
common  fine  salt  upon  the  fire  in  the  grate  or 
Btove,  which  will  immediately  extinguish  the 
fire  in  the  chimney.      The  philosophy  of  this 
is,  that  in  the  process  of  burning  the  salt, 
muriatic  acid  gas  is  evolved,  which  is  aprompt 
extinguisher  of  fire. 

6210.  To  Prevent  Glass  from  Crack- 
ing by  Sudden  Heating.    Probably  more 
articles  of  glass  in  daily  use  are  broken  by 
being  suddenly  heated  than  by  blows  or  other 
acts  of  carelessness.     Glass  is  a  very  poor  con- 
ductor of  heat,  and  when  hot  water  is  poured 
suddenly  into  a  tumbler  or  goblet,  it  is  almost 
certain  to  break    unless    the  glass  itself  is 
quite  warm.     Tepid  water  should   be    first 
used,  or  a  little  cold  water  be  poured  into  the 
glass  on  which  the  hot  water  may  be  drawn. 
Lamp  chimneys  frequently  crack  when  placed 
upon  the  lighted  lamp,   especially  if  taken 
from  a  cold  room.      The  proper  remedy  is  to 
turn  up  the  flame  slowly  or  by  degrees ;  this 
will  gradually  heat  the  glass,  and  prevent  its 
fracture. 

6211.  To  Restore  the  Color  of  "Win- 
dow Glass.     Window   glass  constantly  ex- 
posed to  the  action  of  the  sun  and  rain  soon 
deteriorates,  as  the  potash  or  soda  it  contains 
combines  with  the  carbonic  acid  of  the  air.    A 
whitish  opaqueness  is  the  result  of  this  action ; 
and  in  order  to  restore  the  pane  to  its  original 
clearness,  rub  it  with  dilute  muriatic  acid,  and 
then  clean  with  moistened  whiting.    It  is  said 
that  glass,  in  an  extreme  state  of  decomposi- 
tion may  be  restored  by  this  means.. 


6212.  To    Clean    Discolored    Glass. 

Glass  that  appears  smoky  may  be  cleaned 
by  applying  dilute  nitric  acid,  when  soap,  tur- 
pentine, alcohol,  or  scouring  with  whiting 
would  make  no  impression  on  it.  "Water  of 
ammonia  is  also  effective. 

6213.  To   Remove   a   Ring   from   a 
Swollen     Finger.      A    thread    should    be 
wound  evenly  around,  beginning  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  finger,  and  bringing  each  coil 
close  to  the  preceding,    until    the    ring   be 
reached.      A  needle  is  then  threaded  on  and 
passed  under  the  ring,  and  the  thread  is  care- 
fully unwound  from  the   finger.     The  ring 
follows  each  coil  as  it  is  successively  unrolled, 
and     by    almost    imperceptible    degrees  is 
brought  over  the  knuckle  and  removed.    Care 
must  be  taken  that  the  thread  is  wound  on 
evenly,  particularly  over  the  swollen  knuckle, 
or  an  entanglement  will  occur  in  the  unwind- 
ing.   A  curved  needle  will  pass  under  the 
ring  more  easily  than  a  straight  one. 

6214.  To  Prevent  Gas  Meters  from 
Freezing.      Half  a  pint  (or  less)  of  good 
glycerine  is  said  to  prevent  the  freezing  of  a 
gallon  of  water,  though  at  least  double  the 
proportion  is  preferable  in  the  country,  what- 
ever the  temperature  in  the  winter  may  hap- 
pen to  be.    Water  containing  about  40  per 
cent,  of  glycerine  is  but  little    inclined  to 
freeze.     Glycerine  in  a  pure  state  is  perfectly 
inert,  and  exercises  no  influence  upon  the 
metals    of  which    the    meter    is    composed. 
Whiskey,  on  the  contrary,  undergoes  the  acet- 
ous fermentation,   by  which  the  alcohol  is 
converted  into  acetic    acid,   which  'corrodes 
the  meter,  and-  soon  wears  it  out. 

6215.  To  Prevent  the  Creaking   of 
Doors.    Apply  a  little   soap  to  the  hinges. 
Or:  Take  lard,  soap,  and  black  lead,  equal 
parts,  and  apply. 

6216.  To  Keep  Kerosene   Oil.    This 
oil  should  be  kept  for  use  in  air-tight  closed 
vessels.    A  large  quantity  is  best  .kept  in  a 
well-corked  can  provided  with  a  faucet  an  inch 
or  two  from  the  bottom,  so  that  the  oil  can 
be  drawn  off  as  required,  without  disturbing 
the  sediment  which  usually  collects  on  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel ;  by  this  means  the  oil 
will  be  always  clear  and  bright.    The  small 
cans  used  for  filling  lamps    should  be  kept 
closely  corked  both  at  the  neck  and  spout. 
If  either  cork  be  left  out  for  a  day  or  two,  the 
oil  will  burn  dull,  and  cake  on  the  wick ;  this 
is  more  especially  the  case  when  the  can  is 
kept  in  a  warm  place. 

6217.  Management   of  Brooms.      If 
brooms  are   wetted  in  boiling  suds  once  a 
week,  they  will  become  very  tough,  will  not 
cut  a  carpet,  last  much  longer,  and  always 
sweep  like  a  new  broom. 

6218.  To  Wash  White  Dogs.    Make 
a  good  lather  of  white  soap  with  a  little  spirit 
of  turpentine ;  wash  the  dog  as  quickly  as 
possible  in  this  while  it  is  warm,  but  not  hot, 
taking  care  not  to  let  the  soap  lather  get  into 
its  eyes.     Have  a  tub  with  clean  tepid  water 
in  which  a  little  blue   has  been    dissolved 
ready;  when  the  coat  is  clean  dip  the  dog 
into  the  blue-water  and  rinse  out  the  soap. 
Then  rub  it  well  in  a  clean  sheet  before  a  fire; 
if  the  hair  is  long  comb  it  out  and  brush  it  as 
it  dries.     The  turpentine  will  kill  fleas  unless 
the  dog  is  much  infested  with  them. 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


54:7 


6219.  To  Paint  an  Iron  Bath  Tub. 
Mix  the  paint  to  a  proper  consistency  with 
best  coachmakers'  Japan  varnish.    For  white 
lead  paint,  use  half  turpentine  and  half  coach- 
makers'  Japan.    It  will  not  darken  much. 
Yenetian  red  is  best  for  a  first  coat,  for  any 
color  but  white. 

6220.  To  Raise  Old  Veneers.    In  re- 
pairing old  cabinets,  <fcc.,  workmen  are  often 
at  a  lo.ss  to  know  how  to  get  rid  of  those  blis- 
ters which  appear  on  the  surface.    "We  will 
describe  how  the  operation  may  be  performed 
without  difficulty.    First  wash  the    surface 
with  boiling  water,  and  with  a  coarse  cloth 
remove  dirt  or  grease;  then  place  it  before 
the  fire;  oil  its  surface  with  linseed  oil,  place 
it  again  to  the  fire,  and  the  heat  will  make 
the  oil  penetrate  quite  through  the  veneer 
and  soften  the  glue  underneath ;  then,  whilst 
hot,  raise  the  edge  gently  with  a  chisel,  and  it 
will  separate  completely  from  the   ground. 
Be  careful  not  to  use  too  much  force,  or  you 
will  spoil  the  work.    If  the  work  should  get 
cold  during  the  operation,  apply  more  oil,  and 
heat  it  again.    "When  you  have  entirely  sep- 
arated the  veneer,  wash  off  the  glue,  and  pro- 
ceed to  lay  it  again  as  a  new  veneer. 

6221.  To  Take  Bruises  out  of  Furni- 
ture.     "Wet   the    part    with    warm    water; 
double  a  piece  of  brown  paper  5  or  6  times, 
soak  it  in  warm  water,  and  lay  it  on  the 
place;  apply  on  that  a  warm,  but  not  hot, 
flat  iron,  till  the  moisture  is  evaporated.     If 
the  bruise  be  not  gone,  repeat  the  process. 
After  two  or  three  applications  the  dent  or 
bruise  will  be  raised  to  the  surface.    If  the 
bruise  be  small,  merely  soak  it  with  warm 
water,  and  hold  a  red-hot  iron  near  the  sur- 
face,  keeping  the  surface  continually   wet; 
the  bruise  will  soon  disappear. 

6222.  To   Dissolve   Gum-Shellac  in 
Ammonia.     The  vessel  containing  the  shel- 
lac is  put  into  a  large  vessel  with  hot  water. 
Boiling  water  is  then  poured  on  the  gum, 
after  which  ammonia  is  added  slowly,  but 
continuously,    stirring  all   the  while  with  a 
glass  rod,  until  solution  is  effected.     An  ex- 
cess   of   ammonia    will    color    the    solution 
brown.     After  cooling,  the   fluid  is  filtered, 
and  may  be  kept  in  this  state  a  long  while. 

6223.  To   Manage    Water-Pipes   in 
"Winter.      "When  the  frost  begins  to  set  in, 
coyer  the  water-pipes  with  hay  or  straw  bands, 
twisted  tight  round  them.      Let  the  cisterns 
and  water-butts  be  washed  out  occasionally ; 
this  will  keep  the  water  pure  and  fresh.      In 
pumping   up   water  into   the  cistern  for  the 
water-closet,   be  very    particular  in    winter 
time.     Let  all  the  water  be  let  out  of  the 
pipe  when  done ;  but  if  this  is  forgotten,  and 
it  should  be  frozen,  take  a  small  gimlet  and 
bore  a  hole  in  the  pipe,  a  little  distance  from 
the  place  where  it  is  let  off,  which  will  pre- 
vent its  bursting.      Put  a  peg  into  the  hole 
when  the  water  is  let  off. 

6224.  To  Protect  Lead  Water-Pipes. 
Dr.    Schwarz,    of   Breslau,    notes    a    simple 
method  of  protecting  lead  pipes  from  the  ac- 
tion of  water,  by  forming  on  the  inside  sur- 
face of  the  pipes  an  insoluble  sulphide  of  lead. 
The  operation,  which  is  a  very  simple  one, 
consists  in  filling  the  pipes  with  a  warm  and 
concentrated  solution  of  sulphide  of  potassium 
or  sodium ;  the  solution  is  left  in  contact  with 


the  lead  for    about    15  minutes,   and    then 
poured  out. 

6225.  Blowing   Out    Steam  Boilers. 
Steam  boilers  should  never  be  blown  out  un- 
der steam  pressure.     The  safety  valve  should 
first  be  raised  until  the  pressure  is  all  removed 
by  letting  the  steam  escape  as  rapidly  as  pos- 
sible ;  then  the  hand  hole  plate  or  other  de- 
vice should  be  opened,  and  the  dirt  and  sedi- 
ment will  run  out  with  the  water.    If  the 
boiler  is  allowed  to  cool  off,  the  dirt  will  set- 
tle to  the  bottom  and  be  fastened  on  by  the 
heat.      The  dirt  is  always  on  the  top  of  the 
water  when  there  is  any  pressure  of  steam 
on  it. 

6226.  Substitute   for   a   Corkscrew. 
A  convenient  substitute  for  a  corkscrew,  when 
the  latter  is  not  at  hand,  may  be  found  in  the 
use  of  a  common  screw,  with  an  attached 
string  to  pull  the  cork.     Or,  stick  two  steel 
forks  vertically  into  the  cork  on  opposite  sides, 
not  too  near  the  edge.     Eun  the  blade  of  a 
knife  through  the  two,  and  give  a  twist. 

6227.  To  Remove  a  Cork  from  the 
Inside  of  a  Bottle.     "With  a  stout  string 
projected  into  the    bottle,    turn    the    bottle 
around  until  the  cork  is  caught  in  a  loop  of 
the  string,  and  with  force  pull  out  the  cork. 

6228.  To   Remove    Starch  or   Rust 
from   Flat-Irons.      To    remove  starch  or 
rust  from  flat-irons,  have  a  piece  of  yellow 
beeswax  tied  in  a  coarse  cloth.      "When  the 
iron  is  almost  hot  enough  to  use,  but  not 
quite,  rub  it  quickly  with  the  beeswax,  and 
then  with  a  clean,  coarse  cloth. 

6229.  To   Prepare   New   Linen   for 
Being  Embroidered.     New  linen  may  be 
embroidered  more  easily  by  rubbing  it  over 
with  fine  white  soap ;  it  prevents  the  threads 
from  cracking. 

6230.  To  Shell  Beans  Easily.     Pour 
upon  the  pods  a  quantity  of  scalding  water 
and  the  beans  will  slip  very  easily  from  the 
pod.     By  pouring  scalding  water  on  apples, 
the  skin  may  be  easily  slipped  off,  and  much 
labor  saved. 

6231.  To   Improve   the   Wicks    of 
Candles.     First  steep  the  wicks  in  a  solution 
of  lime-water  in  which  saltpetre  has  been 
dissolved.      To  1  gallon  water  add  2  ounces 
saltpetre  and  £  pound  lime.      Dry  well  the 
wicks  before  using.      It  improves  the  light, 
and  prevents  the  tallow  from  running. 

6232.  Adhesive   for   Leather  Belts. 
Printers'  ink  is  a  good  adhesive  for  leather 
belts.    One  application  will  keep  a  leather 
belt  in  running  order  for  12  mouths. 

6233.  Ajutage    of   Fountains.      M. 
Francois,  in  his  work,  "Art  des   Fontaines," 
estimates  the  decrease  in  the  height  of  the 
jet  to  be  1  foot  below  the  level  of  the  source 
for  every  100  yards  distance.      He  considers 
the  ajutage  or  opening  of  the  pipe  should  be 
i  of  the  size  of  the  pipe  itself.      "Where  pipes 
are  already  laid  down,  and  the  power  of  the 
head  not  very  accurately  known,  it  is  well,  by 
means  of  a  leaden  nozzle,  the  orifice  of  which 
may  be  readily  increased  or  diminished,  to 
test  the  amount  of  force,  so  that  the  ajutage 
may  be  adapted  to  throw  the  highest  and 
fullest  jet  the  head  is  capable  of. 

6234.  To  Make  Composition  Orna- 
ments  for   Picture    Frames    or   Other 
Purposes.     Mix  as  much  whiting  as  you. 


54=3 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


think  will  be  required  for  present  nse  with 
thinnish  glue,  to  the  consistence  of  putty ; 
and  having  a  mould  ready,  rub  it  well  all  over 
with  sweet  oil,  and  press  your  composition  in 
it ;  take  it  out,  and  you  will  have  a  good  im- 
pression, which  you  may  set  by  to  dry ;  or,  if 
wanted,  you  may,  before  it  gets  hard,  apply  it 
to  your  work  with  thick  glue,  and  bend  it 
into  the  form  required. 

6235.  To   Stop   Leaky    Skylights. 
Leaky  skylights  may  be  stopped  and  cured 
with  Dutch  rushes,  bedded  in,  caulked,  and 
covered  with  good  white  lead.     On  wet  mak- 
ing its  appearance  it  quickly  attacks  the  rush, 
which  swells  up  so  tight  and  firm  that  all 
progress  of  wet  and  droppings  is  effectually 
stayed. 

6236.  To   Thicken   and  Strengthen 
Muslin.      Dip  the  muslin  in  dilute  sulphuric 
acid.      According   to  Professor  Calvert,    of 
Manchester,   England,  this    very    much    in- 
creases it;s  thickness  and  strength.     The  cot- 
ton thus  prepared  is  technically  known  as 
"blanket." 

6237.  To  Develop  the  Inscription 
on  Worn  Coins.     By  heating  these  gradu- 
ally, the  inscription  will,  in  almost  all  cases, 
make  its  appearance. 

6238.  To   Preserve    Copper    Coins 
and   Medals   from   the   Action   of  the 
Air.     Immerse  them  for  a  moment  in  melted 
paraffine,  and  then  wipe  off  the   excess   of 
paraffine  with  a  clean  dry  cloth. 

6239.  To  Prepare  Bladders.     These 
articles  are  prepared  by  cutting  off  the  fat  and 
loose  membranes  attached  to  them,  and  wash- 
ing them  first  in  a  weak  solution  of  chloride 
of  lime,  and  afterwards  in  clear  water;  they 
are  then  blown  out  and  submitted  to  pressure 
by  rolling  them  under  the  arm,  by  which  they 
become  considerably  larger;    they  are  next 
blown  quite  tight,  dried,  and  tied  up  in  dozens 
for  sale.    Or,  dip  them  in  warm  water,  dry 
and  rub  them  well  in  with  a  little  glycerine ; 
they  will  keep  soft  and  pliable.      They  are 
employed  by  druggists  and  oil  and  colormen 
to  tie  over  pots,  bottles,  and  jars,  and  to  con- 
tain pill  masses,  and  other  similar  substances. 
Never  buy  bladders  unless  they  are  perfectly 
dry  and  tight,  as,  if  the  reverse  be  the  case, 
they  will  neither  keep  nor  prove  sound. 

6240.  To  Obtain  Herbs  of  the  Finest 
Flavor.     When  herbs  are  to    be  kept   for 
flavoring  dishes,  it  is  obviously  of  the  first 
importance  that  they  should  be  gathered  at 
the  right  time,  and  dried  in  the  best  manner. 
The  seasons  when  the  various  herbs  have  in 
their  fullest    flavor,   are  as    follows:    Basil, 
from  the  middle  of  August  to  the  middle  of 
September;  marjoram,  (luring  the  month  of 
July ;  winter  savory,  the  latter  end  of  July 
and  throughout  August ;  summer  savory,  the 
same ;  thyme,  of  various  kinds,  during  June 
and  July ;  mint,  the  latter  end  of  June,  and 
during  July;  sage,  August  and  September; 
tarragon  and  burnet,  June,  July,  and  Aug- 
ust;   chervil,  parsley,  fennel,   cider  flowers, 
and  orange  flowers,"  May,  June,  and  July. 
As  the  seasons  vary  in  different  localities,  a 
good  general  rule  is  to  gather  the  herbs  when 
they  first  blossom.   Herbs  should  be  gathered 
on  a  dry  day,  before  the  sun  has  been  long 
upon  them.    When  intended  for  preservation, 
they  should  be  cleaned  from  dirt  and  dust, 


and  dried  gradually  upon  a  warm  stove,  or  in 
a  Dutch  oven,  after  which  they  may  be  tied 
up  in  bags  made  of  old  newspaper.  Or,  the 
leaves  may  be  picked  off,  pounded  in  a  mor- 
tar, passed  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  the  pow- 
ders be  preserved  separately  in  well-stoppered 
bottles. 

6241.  To  Remove  Clinker  from  Fire 
Brick.     When  the  fire  bricks  have  become 
covered  with  clinkers  which  have  fused  and 
adhered,  they  may  be  cleaned  by  throwing 
oyster  or  clam  shells  into  the  fire  box  when 
the  fire  is  very  hot,  and  allowing  the  fire  to 
go  out.    The  clinkers  will  generally  cleave 
off  without  the  use  of  much  force  -the  next 
morning.     From  2  quarts  to  \  peck  will  be 
sufficient  for  most  stoves,  and  the  operation 
can  be  repeated  if  some  of  the  clinkers  still 
adhere.    Salt  sprinkled  on  clinker  adhering 
to  fire  brick  will  also  loosen  it. 

6242.  To  Preserve  Carpets.      It   is 
very  advisable    iu  laying    down  carpets  at 
first,  to  cover  the  floor  beneath  them  with 
large  sheets  of  paper,  so  as  to  prevent  the 
dust  from  rising  between  the  boards.    A  car- 
pet lasts  longer  by  adopting  this  precaution. 

6243.  To   Prevent   Injury    to   Kid 
Gloves    from    Excessive   Perspiration. 
Persons  who  wear  kid  gloves  in  hot  weather, 
and  who  perspire  freely,  will  find  that  injury 
to  the  gloves  will  be  prevented  by  applying 
ordinary  corn  starch  to  their    hands  (dry) 
before  drawing  on  their  gloves.     Pulverized 
soap-stone  will  answer  the  same  purpose. 

6244.  The   Art   of  Easy   Shaving. 
The  following  is  the  substance  of  the  Instruc- 
tions of  the  celebrated  Mr.  Mechi  on  this  sub- 
ject :  Never  fail  to  well  wash  your  beard  with 
soap  and  cold  water,  and  to  rub  it  dry,  im- 
mediately before  you  apply  the    lather,   of 
which  the  more  you  use,  and  the  thicker  it  is, 
the  easier  you  will  shave.    Never  use  warm 
water,  which  makes  a  tender  face.    In  cold 
weather,  place  your  razor  (closed  of  course) 
in  your  pocket,  or  under  your  arm,  to  warm 
it.      The  moment  you  leave  your  bed  (or 
bath)  is  the  best  time   to    shave.    Always 
wipe  your  razor  clean,   and   strop  it  before 
putting  it  away;  and  put  your  shaving-brush 
away  with  the  lather  on  it.     The  razor  (being 
only  a  very  fine  saw)  should  be  moved  in  a 
sloping  or  sawing  direction,  and  held  nearly 
flat  to  your  face,  care  being  taken  to  draw 
the  skin  as  tight  as  possible  with  the  left 
hand,  so  as  to  present  an  even  surface,  and  to 
throw  out  the  beard. 

6245.  To  Hone  a  Razor.    The  surface 
of  the  hone  must  be  perfectly  level.    The 
razor  should  be  held  flat  on  the  hone,  and  the 
back  never  raised,  or  it  will  induce  a  round 
or  thick  edge.    Draw  the  razor  from  heel  to 
point,  alternating  the  sides  at  each  stroke, 
and  the    action    always  against    the    edge. 
When  the  edge  is  wiry  and  thin  enough  to 
turn,  strop  it  on  a  coarse  strop,  drawing  the 
edge  occasionally  over  the  thumb  nail,  until 
the  edge  is  smooth,  then  finish  on  a  fine 
strop,  and  the  palm  of  the  hand. 

6246.  Strop   for   Razors.     There    are 
many  kinds  of  razor  strops  formed  of  leather 
glued  on  a  wooden  holder.    These  are  apt,  in 
time,  to  round  the  edge  of  the  razor,  by  allow- 
ing the  blade  to  bed  itself  or  sink  in  the 
leather.    The  best  is  a  strip  of  Russia  leather, 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


54:9 


strained  as  tight  as  a  drum  on  a  curved  or 
bowed  piece  of  wood. 

6247.  Paste  for  Razors.     Emery  very 
finely  levigated  (washed)  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  prepared  chalk  (see  No.  1292),  mixed 
with  lard  or  tallow,  or  a  mixture  of  these 
with  neat's-foot  oil.     Or :  equal  parts  of  jew- 
elers' rouge,  black  lead,  and  prepared  suet. 

6248.  Pradier's   Paste   for   Razors. 
Best    putty    powder,     1    ounce;    jewelers' 
rouge,  1  ounce ;  scales  of  iron,  -J  ounce ;  levi- 
gated Turkey  stone,  3  ounces;  beef  suet,  1* 
ounces.     Or:    Mix  equal  parts  of  dried  sul- 
phate of  iron  and  salt,  and  apply  a  gradually 
mcreased  heat,  in  a  closed  vessel.     Pulverize, 
elutriate  (see  No.  14),  and  mix  with  lard  or 
tallow. 

6249.  To  Strop  a  Razor.     The  practice 
of  pressing  on  the  edge  of  a  razor  in  stropping 
soon  rounds  it ;  the  pressure  should  be  direct- 
ed to  the  back,  which  should  never  be  raised 
from  the  strop.     If  you  shave  from  heel  to 
point  of  the  razor,  strop  it  from  point  to  heel; 
but  if  you  begin  with  the  point  in  shaving, 
then  strop  it  from  heel  to  point.     If  you  only 
once  put  away  your  razor  without  stropping 
it,  or  otherwise  perfectly  cleaning  the  edge, 
you  must  no  longer  expect  to  shave  well  and 
easy,  the  soap  and  damp  so  soon  rust  the  fine 
edge.     A  piece  of  soft  plate-leather  (chamois 
leather)  should  always  be  kept  with  razors,  to 
wipe  them  with. 

6250.  To  Sharpen  a  Razor.    The  sim- 
plest method  of  sharpening  a  razor  is  to  put  it 
for  half  an  hour  in  water  to  which  has  been 
added  ^  of  its  weight  of  muriatic  or  sulphuric 
acid,  and  after  a  few  hours  set  it  on  a  hone. 
The  acid  acts  as  a  whetstone,  by  corroding  the 
whole  surface  uniformly,  so  that  nothing  fur- 
ther than  a  smooth  polish  is  necessary. 

6251.  To  Sharpen  Edge  Tools.    Pro- 
ceed as  directed  in  the  last  receipt. 

6252.  To    Grind    Cutlery  and  Edge 
Tools.     For  grinding,  the  stone  should  be 
dipped  in  water  to  prevent  the  heating  of  the 
tools  ;  and  careful  cutlers  use  oil  for  polishing, 
instead  of  water,  when  using  grindstones  of 
small  diameter. 

6253.  Caution  in  Grinding  Cutlery. 
Never  follow  the  example  of  the  street  knife- 
grinder.     He    does  much  work,   and    cheap 
work.     He  uses  as  little  water  as  possible. 
Give  him  a  good  razor  or  a  good  knife,  and 
he  gives  it  back  well  sharpened,  but  a  spoiled 
tool,   which    needs    to    be    hardened    anew. 
Therefore,  when  sharpening  tools,  take  large 
stones  with  much  water,  and  make  slow  and 
good  work. 

6254.  To  Sharpen  and  Set  a   Saw. 
First,  run  a  file  along  the  edge  of  the  teeth 
till  you  see  them  range  in  a  direct  line ;  then 
lay  the  blade  on  a  smooth  piece  of  lead,  or  on 
the  end  of  a  trying-plane,  and  with  a  square 
steel  punch  and  a  hammer,  give  a  gentle  tap 
on  every  alternate  tooth.     Keverse  the   saw 
and  punch  the  alternate  teeth  on  the  other 
side,  and  look  down  the  saw  to  see  that  the 
teeth  are  all  equally  set.    Then  begin  with 
your  file  at  that  part  of  the  saw  nearest  the 
handle.     To   sharpen  or  file  the  teeth  to  a 
good  point,  hold  the  file  so  that  it  makes  an 
angle  with  the  saw-blade  of  about  30  degrees, 
or  $-  that  of  a  mitre  angle.     Then  file  every 
other  tooth  to  a  very  sharp  point,  sharpening 


only  those  teeth  which  are  set  away  from  tho 
operator.  Turn  the  saw  round,  and  repeat 
the  operation  on  the  remaining  teeth.  The 
file  used  for  sharpening  saws  should  be  trian- 
gular, and  in  fine  order.  A  dull  file  will 
never  make  a  sharp  saw. 

6255.  To  File  a   Flat   Surface.      In 
filing  a  flat  surface  on  a  piece  of  iron,  unless 
there  is  some  skill  or  care  used  in  the  opera- 
tion, the  exterior  edges  are  apt  to  be  greatly 
pared  away,  so  that  that  part  of  tho  surfaco 
about  midway  between  them  will  be  the  least 
filed  down.    The  work  should  be  held  in  a 
bench  vise,  in  such  a  position  that  the  file  will 
run  in  a  horizontal  direction  nearly  level  with 
the  workman's  elbow;  but  should  the  work  bo 
of  a  very  light  nature,  it  may  be  held  in  a 
more  elevated  position;    or,  if    it  be  very 
heavy,  it  may  be  held  a  little  lower.    In  filing 
flat  surfaces,  a  '  surface-plate '  is  used,  to  en- 
able the  operator  to  finish  the  work  with  ac- 
curacy.   The  surface-plate  is  a  cast-iron  plate 
planed  and  carefully  reduced  to  a  true  surface. 
Some  red  lead  is  rubbed  on  this  plate  beforo 
being  used ;  then  this  piece  of  work  is  rubbed 
on  the  plate,  and  wherever  the  work  is  red- 
dened it  shows  that  that  part  of  the  work  is 
above  the  level,   and  has  to  be  filed  down ; 
and  this  process  of  testing  and  filing  is  earned 
on  until  tho  work  is  reduced  to  a  perfectly- 
true  surface.    It  saves  the  file  to  draw  it  back 
at  each  stroke  as  lightly  as  possible.      There 
is  also  economy  in  using  the  files  first  on  brass 
or  cast  iron,  and  afterwards  on  wrought  iron. 

6256.  Recutting   Files  with  Acids. 
There  are  many  receipts  for  converting  old 
files  into  new  by  means  of  acids,  and  among 
the  latest  is  that  recently  patented  by  Albert 
I.  Ferguson,  of  Sharon,  Pa.      Tho  files  must 
bo  thoroughly  cleansed  in  warm  water  con- 
taining a  small  quantity  of   potash,   which 
readily  removes  any  grease  or  dirt  from  them. 
After  the  files  are  thus  cleansed,  they  must  be 
washed  with  warm  water  and  dried  by  arti- 
ficial heat.      Next,  place  1  pint  warm  water 
into  a  wooden  vessel,  and  put  into  it  as  many 
files  as  the  water  will  cover.      Then  add  2 
ounces  blue  vitriol  (sulphate  of  copper)  finely 
pulverized,  and  2  ounces  borax,  well  mixed, 
taking  care  to  turn  the  files  over,  so  that  each 
may  come  in  contact  with  tho  mixture.      To 
the  above  mixture  now  add  7  ounces  sul- 
phuric acid  and  J  ounce  cider  vinegar,  which 
will  cause  the  files  to  assume  a  red  appear- 
ance at  first,  but  they  will  in  a  short  time 
resume  their  natural  color.      Then  they  must 
be  removed,  washed  in  cold  water,  and  dried 
by  artificial  heat.     "When  dry,  they  must  be 
sponged  with  olive  oil,  wrapped  in  porous 
paper,  and  laid  aside  for  use. 

6257.  Re-Sharpening  Files.     A  very 
interesting  and  economical  process  has  been 
exhibited  before  the  Societe"  d'Encouragement 
of  Paris,   by  M.   "Werdermann.      "Well-worn 
files  are  first  carefully  cleaned  by  means  of 
hot  water  and  soda ;  they  are  then  placed  in 
connection  with  the  positive  pole  of  a  battery, 
in  a  bath  composed  of  40  parts  sulphuric  acid, 
80  parts  nitric  acid,   and  1000  parts  water. 
The  negative  pole  is  formed  of  a  copper  spiral 
surrounding  the  files,  but  not  touching  them ; 
the  coil  terminates  in  a  wire    which    rises 
towards  the  surface.    This  arrangement  is  the 
result  of  practical  experience.    When  the  files 


550 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


have  been  10  minutes  in  the  bath  they  are 
taken  out,  washed,  and  dried,  when  the  whole 
of  the  hollows  will  be  found  to  have  been 
attacked  in  a  very  sensible  manner;  but 
should  the  effect  not  be  sufficient,  they  are 
replaced  for  the  same  period  as  before.  Two 
operations  are  sometimes  necessary,  but  rare- 
ly more.  The  files  thus  acted  upon  are,  to  all 
appearance,  like  new  ones,  and  are  said  to  be 
good  for  sixty  hours'  work. 

6258.  To  Clean  Files.     The  occasional 
cleaning  of  files  in  the  machine    shop    by 
means  of  oil,  heat,  and  the  card  (wire  brush) 
will  save  dollars  to  the  owner  and  annoyance 
to  the  worker. 

6259.  To   Cut  Good  Steel  Scrapers. 
Part  of  the  blade  of  a  broken  saw  makes  the 
best  scrapers ;  but,  as  it  is  hard,  it  is  very 
difficult  to  cut  it  into  the  required  form.    The 
best  and  most  expeditious  way  is  to  mark 
it  out  to  the  size  wanted,  and  then  to  place 
the  blade  or  steel  plate  in  a  vise  which  shuts 
very  close,  placing  the  mark  even  with  the 
face  of  the  vise,  and  the  part  to  be  cut  to 
waste  above, the  vise.      Then  with  a  cold- 
chisel,  holding  it  close  to  the  vise  and  rather 
inclined  upwards,  begin  at  one  end  of  the 
steel  plate,   and  with  a  sharp  blow  of  the 
hammer  it  will  cut  it.     Keep  going  on  by  de- 
grees, and  it  will  with  ease  be  cut  to  the  shape 
required  ;  then  grind  the  edges  of  the  scraper 
level,  and  finish  by  rubbing  it  on  a  Turkey- 
stone. 

6260.  Knots.    It  is  not  a  very  difficult 
thing  to  tie  a  neat  and  secure  knot,  yet  com- 
paratively few  persons  know  how  to  accom  - 
plish  it.    Below  we  give  all  the  knots  neces- 
sary for  ordinary  purposes,  with  illustrations 
and  directions  for  making  them. 

6261.  The  Sheet  Bend  or  Weaver's 
Knot.     This  knot  is  usually  employed  by 
netters,  and  is  called  by  sailors  "  the  sheet 
bend."    It  is  readily  made  by 

bending  one  of  the  pieces  of  cord 
into  a  loop  (a,  b,  Fig.  1),  which 
is  to  be  held  between  the  finger 
and  thumb  of  the  left  hand ;  the 
other  cord,  c,  is  passed  through 
the  loop  from  the  further  side, 
then  round  behind  the  two  legs 
of  the  loop,  and  lastly  under 
itself,  the  loose  end  coming  out 
at  d.  In  the  smallness  of  its 
size,  and  the  firmness  with  which 
the  various  parts  grip  together, 
this  knot  surpasses  every  other ; 
it  can,  moreover,  be  tied  readily 
when  one  of  the  pieces,  viz.,  a,  6, 
is  exceedingly  short ;  in  common 
stout  twine,"  less  than  an  inch 
being  sufficient  to  form  the  loop. 
The  above  method  of  forming  it  is  the  sim- 
plest to  describe,  although  not  the  most  rapid 
m  practice ;  as  it  may  bo  made  in  much  less 
time  by  crossing  the  two  ends  of  cord  (a,  b, 
Fig.  2)  on  the  tip  of  the  forefinger  of  the  left 
hand,  and  holding  them  firmly  by  the  left 
thumb,  which  covers  the  crossing;  then  the 
part  c  is  to  be  wound  round  tho  thumb  in  a 
loop,  as  shown  in  tho  figure,  and  passed  be- 
tween the  two  ends,  behind  a  and  before  b; 
the  knot  is  completed  by  turning  the  end  b 
downwards  in  front  of  d,  passing  it  through 
the  loop,  securing  it  under  tho  left  thumb, 


Fig.  1. 


and  tightening  the  whole  by  pulling  d.  As 
formed  in  this  mode,  it  is  more  rapidly  made 
than  almost  any  a 

other  knot;  and,  \  ^ro 

as  before  stated, 
it  excells  all  in 
securi'ty  and 
compactness;  so 
firmly  do  the 

various     turns          a  JT^  ^^^d 

grip  each  other, 
that,  after  hav- 
ing been  tightly 
pulled,  it  is  very 
difficult  to  un- 
tie; this  is  tho  ^  '  c 
only  drawback 

to  its  usefulness,  Fig.  2. 

and  in  this  respect  it  is  inferior  to  the  reef- 
knot,  Fig.  3,  which  is  made  in  precisely  the 
same  manner  that  a  shoe-string  is  tied,  only 
pulling  out  the  ends  instead  of  leaving  them 
as  bows. 

6262.  The  Beef  Knot.     The  only  pre- 
caution necessary  in  making  a 

reef-knot  is  to  observe  that  the 
two  parts  of  each  string  are  on 
the  same  side  of  the  loop ;  if 
they  are  not,  tho  ends  (and  tho 
bows,  if  auy  are  formed)  are  at 
right  angles  to  the  cords.  The 
knot  is  less  secure  than  tho  wea- 
ver's kuot,  and  is  termed  by 
sailors  a  granny-knot.  Other 
knots  are  occasionally  used  to 
connect  two  cords,  but  it  is  un- 
necessary to  describe  them,  as 
every  useful  purpose  may  bo 
answered  by  those  above  men- 
tioned. 

6263.  The  Binding  Knot. 
The  binding  knot,  (Figs.  4,  5,) 
is  exceedingly  useful  in  connect- 
ing broken  sticks,  rods,  <fec.,  but      Fig  3. 
some  difficulty  is  often  experienced  in  fasten- 
ing it  at  the  finish ;  if,  however  the  string  is 
placed    over   tho 

part  to  be  united, 
as  shown  in  Fig. 
4,  and  the  long 
end  b,  used  to 
bind  around  tho 
rod,  and  finally 
passed  through 
tho  loop  a,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  5, 
it  is  readily  se- 
cured by  pulling 
d,  when  the  loop 
is  drawn  in,  and 
fastens  tho  end  of 
the  cord. 

6264.  The 
Double  Half 
Hitch  or  Clove 
Hitch.  For  fast- 
ening a  cord  to  Fig.  5  Fig.  4. 
any  cylindrical  object,  one  of  the  most  useful 
knots  is  tho  clove  hitch,  which,  although  ex- 
ceedingly simple  and  most  easily  made,  is  one 
of  the  most  puzzling  knots  to  the  uninitiated. 
There  are  several  modes  of  forming  it,  the 
most  simple  being  perhaps  as  follows  :  make 
two  loops,  precisely  similar  in  every  respect. 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


551 


as  a  and  b,  Fig.  6,  then  bring  6  in  front  of  a, 
go  as  to  make  both  loops  correspond,  and  pass 
them  over  the  object  to  be  tied,  tightening 
the  ends ;  if  this  is  properly  done,  the  knot 
•will  not  slip,  although  surrounding  a  tolera- 
bly smooth  cylindrical  object,  as  a  pillar, 
pole,  <fec.  This  knot  is  employed  by  surgeons 
in  reducing  dislocations  of  the  last  joint  of  the 
thumb,  and  by  sailors  in  great  part  of  the  stand- 
ing rigging.  The  loop  which  is  formed  when 
a  cable  is  passed  around  a  post  or  tree  to  se- 
cure a  vessel  near  shore,  is  fastened  by  what 


Fig.  6. 

Bailors  term  two  half  hitches,  which  is  simply 
a  clove  hitch  made  by  the  end  of  the  rope 
which  is  passed  around  the  post  or  tree,  and 
then  made  to  describe  the  clove  hitch  around 
that  part  of  itself  which  is  tightly  strained. 
(See  Fig.  7.) 


Fig.  7. 

6265.  The  Bowline.  This  knot  is  used 
in  slinging  heavy  bodies;  it  cannot  slip,  and 
will  never  jam  under  the  heaviest  strain.  It 
is  difficult  to  understand  at  first,  but  with  a 
little  practice  can  be  made  very  rapidly. 
Take  the  fixed  or  standing  part  of  the  rope  in 
the  left  hand  (this  should  be  done  in  making 
all  knots),  lay  the  free  end  over  it,  and  then 
by  a  twist  of  the  wrist  make  a  loop  in  the 


Fig.  S. 

etanding  part  which  shall  inclose  the  free 
end  (a,  Fig.  8);  then  carry  the  free  end  be- 
hind the  standing  part  and  through  the  loop, 
parallel  with  itself  (b,  Fig.  8).  This  knot 
will  well  repay  the  trouble  spent  in  learn- 
ing it. 


6266.  How  to  Tie  a  Parcel.   The  tying 
up  of  parcels  in  paper  is  an  operation  which 
is  seldom  neatly  performed  by  persons  whose 
occupations  have  not  given  them  great  facil- 
ities for  constant  practice.     Let  a  single  knot 
be  made  in  the  end  of  the  cord,  which  is  then 
passed  around  the  box  or  parcel.    This  knot- 
ted end  is  now  tied  by  a  single  hitch  around 
the  middle  of  the  cord  (Fig.  9)  and  the  whole 
pulled  tight.    The  cord  itself  is  then  carried 
at  right  angles  round  the  end  of  the  parcel, 
and  where  it  crosses  the  transverse  cord  on 
the  bottom  of  the  box  (Fig.  10)  it  should,  if 
the  parcel  is  heavy  and  requires  to  be  firmly 
secured,  be  passed  over  the  cross  cord,  then 

back  underneath 
it,  and  pulled 
tightly,  then  over 
itself;  lastly,  un- 
der the  cross  cord, 
and  on  around  tho 
other  end  of  the 
box.  "When  it 
reaches  the  top  it 
must  be  secured 
Fig.  9.  foy  passing  it  un- 

der that  part  of  the  cord  which  runs  length- 
ways (a,  Fig.  9),  pulling  it  very  tight,  and 
fastening  it  by  two  half  hitches  round  itself. 
The  great  cause  of  parcels  becoming  loose  ia 
the  fact  of  the  cord  being  often  fastened  to 
one  of  tho  trans- 
verse parts  (as  6, 
Fig.  9),  instead  of 
the  piece  running 
lengthways,  and  in 
this  case  it  invaria- 
bly becomes  loose. 
Tho  description 
may  perhaps  be 
rendered  clearer 
Fig.  10.  by  the  aid  of  the 

figures,  which  exhibit  tho  top  and  bottom  of 
a  box  corded  as  described.  The  cords,  how- 
ever, are  shown  in  a  loose  state,  to  allow 
their  arrangement  to  be  perceived  more 
easily. 

6267.  Artificial  Grindstones.   Washed 
silicious  sand,  3  parts;  shellac,  1  part;  melt, 
and  form  it  into  the  proper  shape  while  warm. 
The  fineness  of  tho  sand  must  depend  on  the 
work  the  stono  is  intended  for.    Powdered 
emery  may  be  substituted  for  sand.      The 
same  composition  is  formed  upon  pieces  of 
wood,  for  the  purpose  of  sharpening  knives, 
and  cutting  stones,  shells,  <fec. 

6268.  To   Make   an   Emery   Wheel 
for  Grinding  Tools.    Provide  a  solid  wheel, 
made  of  pine,  or  any  other  soft  wood,  and  of 
the  size  required  for  the  purpose.      Turn  the 
wheel  true,  and  then  turn  rounds  or  hollows 
in  its  face,  to  suit  the  tools  you  wish  to  grind, 
gouges,  rounds,  &c.     Then  prepare  some  best 
glue,  and,  using  it  hot  and  thin,  put  it  on  the 
face  of  the  wheel  with  a  brush.  The  first  coat  of 
glue  should  bo  a  lisht  one,  and  when  it  is  dry 
a  second  one  should  be  applied,  and.  as  quickly 
as  possible,  as  much  emery  should  be  sifted 
upon  the  wet  surface  as  the  glue  will  hold. 
When  this  is  dry  another  coat  of  glue  and  emery 
should  be  applied  in  the  same  way.    This  will 
make  a  wheel  that  will  last  for  months,  and 
grind  faster  than  anything  else.    No.  0  emery 
is  best  for  this  purpose.    (Seo  last  receipt.) 


552 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


6269.  To   Cement  Emery  to  Wood. 
The  following  cement  is  wonderfully  tough. 
Melt  together  equal  parts  of  shellac,  white 
resin,  and  carbolic  acid  in  crystals ;  add  the 
last  after  the  others  are  melted.    The  effect  of 
the  carbolic  acid  is  surprising. 

6270.  Kerosene  Oil  for  Whetstones. 
Kerosene  oil  on  whetstones  is  superior  to  any 
other  liquid  for  the  purpose,  as  it  keeps  the 
stone  in  better  condition  and  assists  the  oper- 
ation of  sharpening. 

6271.  How  to  TJse  a  Grindstone.    Do 
not  waste  the  stone  by  running  it  in  water ; 
but  if  you  do,  dp  not  allow  it  to  stand  in 
water  when  not  in  use,  as  this  will  cause  a 
soft  place ;  it  is  much  better  to  wet  the  stone 
by  dropping  water  on  it  from  a  pot  suspended 
above  the  stone,  and  stop  off  the  water  when 
not  in  use.    Do  not  allow  the  stone  to  get  out 
of  order,  but  keep  it  perfectly  round  by  use  of 
gas  pipe,  or  a  hacker.     Clean  off  all  greasy 
tools  before    sharpening,    as    grease    or   oil 
destroys  the  grit.      Observe :  when  you  get  a 
stone  that  suits  your  purpose,  send  a  sample 
of  the  grit  to  the  dealer  to  select  by  ;  a  half 
ounce  sample  is  enough,  and  can  be  sent  in  a 
letter  by  mail. 

6272.  Soap  in  Place  of  Oil  on  Ar- 
kansas Stones.     The  employment  of  oil  for 
the  purpose  of  keeping  Arkansas  and  other 
stones  in  proper  condition  for  sharpening  in- 
struments is  so  general  as  to  be  almost,  if  not 
entirely,  to  the  exclusion  of  every  other  sub- 
stance.     The  tendency,  however,  to  become 
gummy,   and  clog  the  surface  of  the  stone 
after  it  has  been  on  a  short  time,  and  the 
liability  of  soiling  the  fingers  and  imparting 
an  unpleasant  odor  to  them,  make  the  use  of 
oil  objectionable.    All  this  can  be  readily  ob- 
viated, however,  by  using  soap  in  place  of  oil, 
as  follows : — Kub  a  piece  of  toilet  soap  and  a 
little  water  over  the  surface  of  the  stone  until 
a  thick  lather  is  formed,  and  then  allow  this 
to  diy.      "When  occasion  arises  for  putting  an 
edge  on  a  tool,  a  few  drops  of  water  will  moist- 
en the  soap  and  place  the  stone  in  proper  con- 
dition for  use  at  once.    This  plan  is  one  that 
has  been  successfully  employed  for  years. 

6273.  Drill   Lubricator.      In  drilling 
wrought  iron,  use  1  pound  soft  soap,  mixed 
with  1  gallon  boiling  water.    This  is  a  cheap 
lubricator ;  it  insures  working  with  great  ease, 
and  clean  cutting  by  the  drill. 

6274.  To   Face  Oil   Stones.    Take  a 
piece  of  iron  with  even  or  straight  face  (it 
ought  to  be  planed) ;  scatter  a  little  emery  01 
fine  sand  about  as  coarse  as  No.  Ik  sand 
paper  on  the  iron  plate,  add  a  little  water  and 
rub  the  face  of  the  stone,  renewing  the  emery 
or  sand  and  water  as  requisite,  finishing  with 
an  adition  of  water  without  emery  or  sand. 
This  is  the  quickest  and  truest  way,  making 
the  stone  perfectly  straight  and  occupying 
from  5  to  10  minutes  time. 

6275.  To    Make    Plain    Chocolate. 
Boasted  cocoa  or  chocolate  beans  or  nuts  are 
made  into  paste  by  trituration  in  a  heatec 
mortar ;  then  poured  into  tin  moulds  and  left 
till  cold.    In  this  form  it  is  cake  chocolate 
By  grinding  this  is  reduced  to  chocolate  pow- 
der.     Sweetened  and  flavored  chocolate  is 
made  in  this  way :  the  sugar  and  aromatics 
being  added  during  the  trituration  ;  the  pro 
portions  of  these  used  for  the  various  kinds  o 


jhocolate  are  given  below.  "Vanilla,  <fcc.,  must 
be  ground  before  adding  to  the  paste.  (See 
No.  6279.) 

6276.  French   Chocolate.      Grind  to- 
;ether  as  in  last  receipt,  3  pounds  best  cacao 

nuts,  1  pound  refined  sugar,  and  2  vanilla 
beans.  (See  No.  6279.) 

6277.  Spanish  Aromatic   Chocolate. 
rind  together  11  pounds  Caracca  nuts,  3 

)ounds  white  sugar,  1  ounce  vanilla,  £  ounce 
innamon,  and  %  drachm  cloves.  (See  No.  6279.) 

6278.  Spanish  Almond  and  Vanilla 
Jhocolate.      Take  10  pounds  Caracca  nuts 

and  3  pounds  sugar  (or  8  pounds  Caracca 
nuts  and  2  pounds  island  cacao  and  10  pounds 
sugar),  and  3  ounces  vanilla.  Prepare  as  in. 
;he  last  receipt. 

6279.  To  Grind  Vanilla  Beans.    Ta- 
nilla  is  pulverized  by  triturating  with  a  little 
sugar. 

1280.  Molasses  Candy.  Take  1  quart 
molasses,  14  pounds  brown  sugar,  the  juice  of 
a  large  lemon  and  12  drops  oil  of  lemon ;  mix 
;he  molasses  and  sugar  together,  butter  the 
inside  of  a  kettle  and  put  it  in.  Let  it  boil 
over  a  moderate  fire  for  2  hours,  then  add  the 
lemon  juice  and  boil  %  hour ;  stir  it  often,  to 
prevent  it  from  burning;  when  thoroughly 
lone  it  will  cease  boiling ;  then  butter  a  pan 
and  put  it  in  to  cool ;  if  sufficiently  done  it  will 
be  crisp  and  brittle,  if  not  it  will  be  tough  and 
ropy.  Nuts  of  any  kind  may  be  added  just 
before  it  is  put  in  the  pan ;  they  must  be  well 
stirred  in.  The  candy  may  bo  worked  by 
keeping  the  hands  well  covered  with- flour,  or 
by  greasing  them  well  with  butter.  The 
working  must  be  done  as  soon  as  it  is  cool 
enough  to  handle.  It  may  be  made  of  mo- 
lasses only — in  this  case  it  requires  longer 
boiling — and  other  flavoring  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  lemon. 

6281.  To   Make   Taffee.     Mix  £  cup 
butter  with  2  of  sugar,  and,  when  well  stirred 
together,  put  it  in  a  china  lined  saucepan  over 
the  fire.    Let  it  boil  steadily  and  gently  until, 
by  dropping  a  little  on  a  plate  and  cooling  it, 
you  find  it  sufficiently  stiff. 

6282.  To  Make  Molasses  Taffee.    To 
1  quart  of  molasses  put  1  gill  of  cold  water, 
and  set  it  over  a  moderate   fire ;  let  it  boil 
steadily  until  nearly  stiff  enough,  then  add 
1   table-spoonful  butter  and    1    tea-spoonful 
brown  sugar.    Boil  10  minutes  longer,  then 
pour  into  buttered  pans. 

6283.  Everton  Taffee.     To  make  this 
favorite  and  wholesome  candy,  take  li  pounds 
moist  sugar,  3    ounces    butter,    H    teacups 
water,  and  1  lemon.    Boil  the  sugar,  butter, 
water,  and  half  the  rind  of  the  lemon  together, 
and  when  done   (which  will  be  known  by 
dropping  into  cold  water,  when  it  should  be 
quite  crisp)  let  it  stand  aside  till  the  boiling 
has  ceased,  and  then  stir  in  the  juice  of  the 
lemon.    Butter  a  dish,  and  pour  it  in  about  i 
inch  in  thickness.      The  fire  must  be  quick, 
and  the  taffee  stirred  all  the  time. 

6284.  To  Make  Cream  Rise.     Cream 
cannot  rise  through  a  great  depth  of  milk. 
Therefore,  if  milk  is  desired  to  retain  its  cream 
for  a  time,  it  should  be  put  into  a  deep  narrow 
vessel;  but  if  it  be  desired  to  free  it  almost 
completely  of  cream,  it  should  be  poured  into 
a  broad  flat  dish,  not  much  exceeding  one 
inch  in  depth. 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


6285.  To  Clear  all  Kinds  of  Sugar. 
Take  a  little  gum  arabic,  and  a  little  isin- 
glass   dissolved    in    hot    -water;    pour    it, 
when  dissolved,  in  your  sugar,  when  it  is  boil- 
ing,  and  it  will   clear  all  the  sediment  to 
the  top  of  the  pan,  which  must  be  skimmed 
off  as  soon  as  it  rises.      Loaf   sugar  may  be 
cleared  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  isinglass,  or 
gum  arabic.    A  little  of  each  will  do.     (See 
No.  1357.) 

6286.  To  Keep  a  Churn  from  Froth- 
ing Over.     Take  the  body  of  the  chum  and 
cut  a  groove  around  the  inside  of  the  mouth, 
about  3  inches  from  the  top  and  f  inch  deep, 
and  then  remove  half  the  thickness  of  the 
wood,  making  a  shoulder  all  around ;  then 
take  the  cover  and  cut  it  to  fit  nicely  inside, 
and  you  have    now  done    away    with    the 
necessity  for  cloths,  tubs,  pans,  &c.,  hereto- 
fore required  to  save  the  cream  flowing  over. 

6287.  To    Make   French    Coffee.    A 
French  coffee  pot  consists  of  two  tin  vessels, 
one  on  top  of  the  other.     In  the  upper  one  is 
a  strainer,  and  a  tin  plate  pierced  with  holes. 
The  coffee,   ground  almost  as  fine  as  gun- 
powder, is  ponied  into  the  strainer,  and  the 
plate  with  the  holes  put  over  it.    Boiling 
water  is  then  poured  in  and  filters  through 
into  the  bottom  vessel  or  pot.    The  pot  should 
be  kept  on  the  range  or  stove,  a  few  moments, 
until  scalding  hot,  and  the  fluid  which  has 
filtered  through  poured  in  at  the  top  again, 
which  will  extract  all  the  flavor  of  the  berry, 
and  make  a  cup  of  coffee  far  superior  to  that 
boiled.     Liebig  says,  however,  that  a  portion 
of  the  coffee  should  be  kept  out,  thrown  into 
the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  and  there  permitted 
to  steep,  like  tea.     This,  he  says,   gives  the 
flavor,  while  the  infiltrated  portion  gives  the 
strength.      "We  have  tried  this  experiment 
with  great  success,  and  find  it  a  vast  improve- 
ment over  the  method  of  simply  pouring  boil- 
ing   water    on    the    top ;    it    is,    moreover, 
economical,  because  the  ground  coffee  is  ex- 
hausted more  completely  than  by  simple  im- 
mersion in  hot  water.     After  standing  a  few 
moments,  it  is  as  clear  as  spring  water,  and  as 
deep  colored  as  claret.     A  still  better  plan,  in 
making  coffee  by  the  filtering    method,    is 
thus  :  place  the   ground  coffee   in  the  filter, 
cover  it  closely  ;  then  pour  sufficient  boiling 
water  in  the  coffee-pot  (not  into  the  filter)  to 
cover  the  bottom  about  -J-  inch.      Place   the 
filter  in  the  coffee-pot,  and  set  the   whole  on 
the  stove  or  fire,  so  that  the  water  will  boil 
and  its  steam  rise  and  soften  the  coffee  in  the 
filter.     In   about  5  minutes,   empty  out  the 
water,    and  pour  boiling  water  through  the 
filter  as  usual.      The  ground  coffee  will  bo  so 
thoroughly   exhausted    of   its    strength    aud 
aroma   that  it  will  not  bear  twice  watering. 
Coffee  should  never  be  brought  in  contact  with 
iron.     Tinned  coffee-pots  that  have  been  used 
for  some  time  are  apt  to  get  worn  on  the  sur- 
face, so  that  the  iron  the  tin  plate  is  made  of 
comes  through.      "When  this  occurs  the  coffee 
will  be   bitter  and    black,  for  it  attacks  iron, 
forming  an  acid  very  quickly.      This  any  one 
can  see   by  putting  a  few  drops  on  a  case- 
knife.      Above  all,  to  have  good  coffee,  the 
pot  must  be  scrupulously  clean. 

6288.  To  Keep   Suet.    Suet   chopped 
fine  and  mixed  with  flour,  if  tied  down  tight 
in  a  jar  will  keep  10  days  or  2  weeks,  and  is 


very  nice  to  use  for  puddings  or  pastry.  If 
there  be  more  suet  than  will  be  used  while 
fresh,  throw  it  into  a  pickle  made  in  the  pro- 
portion of  4  ounces  salt  to  1  quart  cold  water. 
It  must  be  freshened  by  laying  it  in  fresh  water 
an  hour  or  two  before  using  it,  and  will  then 
be  as  nice  as  fresh  suet.  Or  the  suet  may 
be  rendered  down,  and  poured  into  a  pan  con- 
taining about  an  inch  of  cold  water.  "When 
cold,  take  off  the  suet  (the  impurities  will 
have  fallen  to  the  bottom  of  the  water),  and 
pack  it  away  in  jars  for  future  use.  Do  not 
put  in  salt,  if  it  is  intended  to  use  for  frying, 
as  salt  prevents  articles  from  browning  easily. 

6289.  Imitation  Asses' Milk.   The  fol- 
lowing preparations  are  used  freely  as  sub- 
stitutes for  asses'  milk,  and  may  be  adminis- 
tered in  cases  of  consumption  and  general  de- 
bility, a  tea-cupful  3  or  4  times  a  day,  either 
plain  or  with  a  spoonful  of  rum. 

Mix  the  whites  of  2  eggs  with  f  pint  new 
cow's  milk,  and  1  ounce  sugar;  add  |, ounce 
syrup  of  tolu. 

6290.  Factitious  Asses'  Milk.     Boil  1 
ounce  hartshorn  shavings  to  a  jelly  in  1  pint 
water,  adding  2  ounces  white  sugar;  when 
cool  add  1  pint  new  cow's  milk  aud  £  ounce 
syrup  of  tolu.     Used  as  in  the  last  receipt. 

6291.  Liqueur  de  la  Grande  Chart- 
reuse.    According  to  Dr.  Chevalier,  this  cel- 
ebrated liqueur,  made  at  the  Abbey  of  the 
name,  near  Grenoble,  is  composed  of  essence 
of  melissa  citrata,  31  grains;  essence  of  hyssop, 
31  grains;  essence  of  angelica  root,  154  grains; 
essence  of  best  mint,  309  grains ;  essence  of 
nutmeg,  31  grains;  essence  of  "cloves,  31  grains; 
and  4i"pints  rectified  spirits  of  wine,  of  best 
quality.    The  liquid    is    artificially  colored, 
either  with  turmeric  or  any  other  suitable  ' 
material. 

6292.  Doppel  Kummel.     To  5  gallons 
94  per  cent,  alcohol,  add  4  ounces  oil  of  cara- 
way, ^  drachm  (30  drops)  oil  of  anise,  5  drops 
oil  of  coriander,  5  drops  oil  of  bitter  almonds, 
and  10  drops  oil  of  calamus.    Add  20  gallons 
French  proof  spirit,  and  15  gallons  water  in 
which  10  pounds  white  sugar  have  been  dis- 
solved.    This  will  make  40  gallons  kummel 
of  a  strength  of  36f  per  cent.     If  for  cordial, 
more  sugar  may  be  added. 

6293r  To  Improve  Cheap  Bourbon. 
Inferior  Bourbon  whiskey  may  be  much  im- 
proved in  quality  by  the  addition  of  the 
peach  flavoring  given  in  ISTo.  6294.  From  1 
to  li  gallons  of  the  flavoring  should  be  added 
to  40  gallons  of  whiskey.  This  will  give  it  a 
fruity  taste. 

6294.  Peach  Flavoring  for  Whiskey 
by  a  New  Method.  Take  a  50-gallon  pipe ; 
at  4  or  5  inches  from  the  bottom  place  a  false 
bottom,  perforated  with  J-inch  holes.  Cover 
this  false  bottom  with  a  thin  layer  of  straw, 
laid  uniformly ;  this  again  covered  by  a  thin 
even  layer  of  straw  laid  at  right  angles  across 
the  lower  layer.  Then  pack  10  gallons  dried 
peaches  regularly,  without  pressing  them; 
add  5  pounds  black  tea  evenly  sprinkled  over 
the  peaches,  and  cover  the  whole  with  a 
cloth.  Next  pack  10  gallons  oak  sawdust 
evenly,  and  cover  it  also  with  a  cloth.  Place 
some  pieces  of  lath  over  the  cloth,  with  some 
middle-sized  stones  to  keep  the  sawdust 
down.  Insert  a  faucet  in  the  side  of  the 
pipe,  between  the  bottom  and  the  false  bot- 


554, 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


torn.  Now  add  20  gallons  proof  spirit,  and 
draw  off,  three  times  every  day,  15  gallons  of 
the  tincture,  and  pour  it  back  immediately. 
As  the  sawdust  acts  as  a  filter,  the  tincture 
will  be  ready  for  use  and  bright  in  10  or  15 
days.  If  a  greater  quantity  is  required, 
double  the  above  proportions  and  use  a  gin 
cask. 

6295.  To  Improve  "Wine  by  Electric- 
ity.    The  process  consists  in  plunging  into 
the  vat  containing  the  wine,  two  plates  of 
platinum  or  of  silver,  having    attached    to 
them  two  wires  of  the  same  metal,  which  are 
connected  with  the  poles  of  an  electric  bat- 
tery.   The  Bunsen  and  Daniell's  batteries  are 
much  used  in  France  for  this  purpose.     The 
time  necessary  to  transform  a  low  grade  wine 
to  one  of  an  agreeable  and  superior  quality,  is 
from  two  to  three  weeks,  with  the  battery 
continually  working.     By  this  method,  wines 
which  were  considered  only  fit  for  making 
vinegar,  are  changed  to  such  an  extent  that 
they  are  used  as  good,  and  in  some  cases  su- 
perior table  wines.     (See  No.  726.) 

6296.  Pharaoh's  Serpents  Eggs  are 
made  in  the  following  way:  Take  mercury 
and  dissolve  it  in  moderately  dilute  nitric 
acid  by  means  of  heat,  taking  care,  however, 
that  there  be  always  an  excess  of  metallic 
mercury  remaining ;  decant  the  solution,  and 
pour  it  into  a  solution  of  sulpho- cyanide  of 
ammonium    or    potassium,    which    may    be 
bought  at  a  good  drug  store,  or  of  a  dealer  in 
chemicals.   Equal  weights  of  both  will  answer. 
A  precipitate  will  fall  to  the  bottom  of  the 
beaker  or  jar,  which  is  to  be  collected  on  a 
filter  and  washed  two  or  three  times  with  wa- 
ter, when  it  is  put  in  a  warm  place  to  dry. 
Take  for  every  pound  of  this  material  1  ounce 
gum  tragacanth  which  has  been  soaked  in 
hot  water.     "When  the  gum  is  completely  soft- 
ened it  is  to  be  transferred    to    a  mortar, 
and  the  pulverized  and  the  dried  precipitate 
gradually  mixed  with  it  by  means  of  a  little 
water,  so  as  to  present  a  somewhat  dry  pill 
mass,  from  which  pellets  of  the  desired  size 
are  formed  by  hand,  put  on  a  piece  of  glass, 
and  dried  again ;  they  are  then  ready  for  use. 

6297.  Pharaoh's  Serpents  Eggs.    A 
substitute,  nearly  as  good  as  the  original  mer- 
cury compound,  and  superior  in  not  being 
poisonous,  is  prepared  in  the  following  way : 
Take  bichromate  of  potassa,  2  parts ;  nitrate 
of  potassa,   1  part;    white   sugar,  3    parts. 
Pulverize  each  of  the  ingredients  separately, 
and  then  mix  them  thoroughly.    Make  small 
paper  cones  of  the  desired  size,  and  press  the 
mixture    into   them.     They  are    now  ready 
for  use,  but  must  be  kept  from  moisture  and 
light. 

6298.  Solidified  Glycerine  for  Toilet 
Use.     Transparent  soap,  1  ounce;   water,  4 
ounces ;  inodorous  glycerine,  24  ounces.   Dis- 
solve the  soap  in  the  water  by  heat,  adding 
an  equal  weight  of   glycerine.     "When    dis- 

1  solved,  add  the  remaining  portion  of  glycer- 
'  inc,  and  sufficient  water  to  make  up  the 
weight.  When  nearly  cold,  add  any  suitable 
perfume  and  pour  in  glass  jars.  It  has  a  very 
pale  amber  color,  is  transparent,  melts  easily 
on  the  skin,  and  leaves  no  residue. 

6299.  To  Remedy  a  Scattering  Gun. 
To  prevent  a  gun  from   scattering,  insert  a 
ring  about  half  an  inch  in  width  in  the  nozzle 


of  the  gun,  beveling  from  the  outer  edge  to 
nothing  at  the  inward.  It  can  be  fastened  in 
with  rivets.  It  should  be  made  of  metal  about 
t^  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  be  fitted  very 
neatly. 

6300.  Preservation  of  Stone.    Doctor 
Eugene  Eobert,  of  Paris,  recommends  copper 
salts  as  being  the  best  preservatives  of  stone 
in  a  damp  climate.    These  salts  prevent  the 
formation  of  lichens,  to  the  action  of  which 
M.  Eobert  attributes  the  destruction  of  stone. 
This  is,  without  doubt,  true  for  granite,  but 
its  efficiency  for  sandstone  is  questionable. 
The  latter  deteriorates  by  exfoliation,  without 
the  development  of  any  vegetation. 

6301.  Ground  Tea.     A  French  chemist 
asserts  that  if  tea  be  ground  like  coffee  before 
hot  water  is  poured  upon  it,  it  will  yield  near- 
ly double  the  amount  of  its  exhilarating  qual- 
ities. 

6302.  To  Impart  a  Fine  Flavor  to 
Tea.     To  impart  a  fine  flavor  to  ordinary 
tea,  place  rose  leaves  in  the  tea-canister,  or 
add  one  drop  of  the  attar  of  roses  on  a  piece 
of  soft  paper  to  every  pound  of  tea,  and  keep 
the  canister  closely  covered. 

6303.  To  Prevent  St9ves  From  Bust- 
ing.    Kerosene  applied  with  a  rag  to  stoves 
will  keep  them  from  rusting  during  the  sum- 
mer.    It  is  also  an  excellent  material  to  apply 
to  all  iron  utensils  used  about  a  farm. 

6304.  To   Remove  Pin-Spots   from 
Steel.     Get  a  small  iron  box  with  a  sliding  top 
to  it,  fill  it  with  pulverized  charcoal,  and  im- 
bed the  pieces  of  steel  in  it,  put  in  the  top, 
and  lute  with  fire-clay.     Heat  it  in  a  slow  fire, 
to  a  red  heat,  then  take  out  and  let  it  cool  off. 

6305.  Remedy  Against  the  Cracking 
of  Wooden  Taps  and  Faucets.    This  is 
best  prevented  by  putting  the  taps  and  fau- 
cets in  melting  paraffine,  and  heating  them 
there  at  a  temperature  of  212°  Fahr.,  until 
bubbles  of  air  cease  to  escape  from  the  wood. 
The  whole  is  then  allowed  to  cool  to  about 
120°  Fahr.,  when  the  taps  are  taken  from  the 
bath  and  cleaned  from  the  adhering  paraffiue 
by  rubbing  with  a  dry  coarse  piece  of  cloth. 

*  6306.  French  Composition  for  Wash- 
ing. Dissolve  1  pound  hard  soap  in  6  gal- 
lons of  water,  then  add  £  ounce  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine and  £  ounce  spirits  of  hartshorn. 

6307.  Cheap  Family  Soap.     Add  to  10 
quarts  of  water,  (3  pounds  of  quicklime  (shell 
lime  is  best),  and  6  pounds  common  washing 
soda.     Put  all  together  and  boil  for  half  an 
hour,  and  let  it  stand  all  night  to  clear.    Draw 
off  the  lye,  and  add  to  it  1  pound  common 
resin  and  7  pounds  of  fat  (any  fat  will  do). 
Boil  this  for  half  an  hour,  then  let  it  stand  till 
cool,  and  cut  into  bars. 

6308.  To  Make  a  Bad  Yellow  Soap 
Good  and  Hard.     Heat  a  solution  of  28 
pounds  hyposulphite  of  soda  in  4  gallons  wa- 
ter, with  250  pounds  of  bad  yellow  or  brown 
soap,  and  the  result  will  be  a  good  hard  soap. 
This  is  Desborough's  patent. 

6309.  To    Preserve    Soap    Grease. 
Fill  a  cask  half  full  of  good  strong  lye  and 
drop  all  refuse   grease   therein.     Stir  up  the 
mixture  once  a  week. 

6310.  Waterproof  Starch.     This  is  a 
French  patent,   and  consists  in  passing  the 
goods,  after  being  properly  starched,  through 
a  bath  of  chloride  of  zinc  at  a  temperature 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


555 


of  about  60°  Fahr.  The  starch  mil  then 
remain  in  the  clothes  after  several  successive 
•washings. 

6311.  Cement   to   Resist   Sulphuric 
Acid.     Melt  caoutchouc  by  a  gentle  heat, 
add  from  6  to  8  per  cent,  of  the  weight  of  tal- 
low, taking  care  to  keep  the  mass  well  stir- 
red ;  add  dry  slacked  lime,  so  as  to  make  the 
fluid  mass  the  consistency  of  soft  paste ;  and 
lastly  add  20  per  cent,  of  red  lead,  whereby 
the  mass,  which  otherwise  remains  soft,  be- 
comes hard   and   dry.     This  cement  resists, 
according  to  Dr.  Wagner,  boiling  sulphuric 
acid.     A  solution  of  caoutchouc  in  twice  its 
weight  of  raw  linseed  oil,  aided  by  heating, 
and  the  addition  thereto  of  an  equal  weight 
of  pipe-clay,  yields  a  plastic  mass  which  also 
resists  most  acids. 

6312.  Cement  for  Fixing  Glass  Let- 
ters.    A   thick   solution  of  marine   glue  in 
wood  naphtha  will  answer  perfectly  if  color  is 
no  object.     But  the  glass  must  be  chemically 
clean,  and  this  is  not  always  easy.     The  leas't 
trace  of  soap  or  grease  will  spoil  the  adhesion 
of  any  cement.     Try  soda  or  ammonia,  fol- 
lowed by  whiting  and  water,  clean  cloths,  and 
plenty  of  rubbing,  and  let  the  cement  dry  on 
the  letters  till  the  surface  just  begins  to  be 
"  tacky"  before  you  apply  them. 

6313.  New  Process   for  Rendering 
Cloth  Waterproof.     This  is  a  method  for 
rendering  fabrics  waterproof  without  destroy- 
ing their  ventilating  qualities.     Place  in   a 
metal  vessel  of  about  6  gallons  capacity,  20 
pounds  sulphate  of  alumina  cut  in  thin  slices; 
and  in  another  similar  receptacle  8  pounds 
oleic  acid  and  6  quarts  alcohol.     Thoroughly 
dissolve  the  latter  compound,  and  stir  it  with 
a  wooden  stick  for  20  minutes,  gradually  add- 
ing the  sulphate  of  alumina.    Leave  the  whole 
for  about  24  hours  to  settle.    The  oleic  acid 
and  the  spirit  will  then  be  at  the  surface,  and 
can  be  decanted;  the  remaining  deposit  should 
be  filtered  through  flannel,  and  pressed  into  a 
cake.     This  can  be  dried  by  heat,  and  ground 
to  a  powder.     For  use  on  silken  or  linen 
clothes,  1£  pounds  to  20  gallons  of  water  will 
be  ample  ;  wool  will  not  require  more  than  1 
pound.     It  is  as  well  to  strain  these  solutions, 
and  the  fabrics  require  only  to  be  thoroughly 
saturated  and  dried  in  the  air. 

6314.  To  Clarify  Quills.     Cut  off  the 
small  top  of  the  quills,  tie  them  loosely  in 
bundles,  fix  them  nearly  upright  in  a  sauce- 
pan of  water  in  which  a  small  piece  of  alum 
has  been  dissolved,  about  the  size  of  a  walnut 
of  alum  to  a  quart  of  water;   let  them  boil 
slowly  until  they  become  clear;  add  a  little 
turmeric  or  a  small  pinch  of  saffron  to  the 
water,  to  give  them  the  yellow  color;   dry 
them  in  the  sun.     Tie  paper  round  the  feather 
part  of  the  quills,  to  keep  them  from  dust. 
The  quantity  of  alum  may  be  increased  ac- 
cording as  you  wish  the  quills  more  or  less 
brittle. 

6315.  New  Glazing  for  Frescoes.    Dr. 
Vohl  announces  that  parafHne,  mixed  with 
benzole  or  Canada  balsam,  affords  a  glazing 
for  frescoes  much   superior  to  soluble  glass. 
By  covering  the  interior  of  wine  casks  with 
a  film   of   pure    white  parafBne,  poured  in 
melted,  he  has  effectually  prevented  the  spoil- 
ing of  the  wine  and  its  evaporation  through 
the  wood. 


6316.  To  Bend  Gas  Pipe.    This  may 
be  done  by  filling  the  pipe  with  melted  resin. 
When  the  resin  hardens,  bend  the  pipe,  and  it 
will  retain  its  round  form.     Remove  the  resin 
by  heating. 

631 7.  Chewing  Gum  is  made  as  follows : 
Take  of  prepared  balsam  of  tolu,  2  ounces 
(see  second  receipt  in  No.  5102) ;  white  sugar, 
1  ounce ;  oatmeal,  3  ounces.     Soften  the  gum 
in  a  water-bath  and  mix  in  the  ingredients ; 
then  roll  in  finely-powdered  sugar  or  flour,  to 
form  sticks  to  suit.  « 

6318.  Chewing  Gum  from  Paramne. 
This  article  may  be  made  by  dissolving  paraf- 
fine  at  a  gentle  heat  in  a  very  little  olive  oil 
and  glycerine.    It  is  stirred  on  cooling,  and 
afterwards  compressed.    The  amount  of  gly- 
cerine   depends    on    the    consistency  to    be 
desired,  and  must  be  determined  by  the  char- 
acter of  the  paramne  employed.    This  latter 
consists  of  mixtures  of  various  carbo-hydrides, 
and  is  by  no  means  always  of  the  same  com- 
position and  properties.    The  glycerine  will 
keep  it  soft  and  make  it  sweet  at  the  same 
time. 

6319.  Boot  Powder.     Scraped  or  pow- 
dered French  chalk  is  used  by  bootmakers  to 
make  new  boots  or  shoes  go  on  easily,  by 
rubbing  or  dusting  a  little  of  it  on  the  inside 
of  the  heel  and  instep  of  the  boot. 

6320.  Electric  Tissue.     Steep  linen  or 
cotton  1  hour  in  a  mixture  of  1  part  strong 
sulphuric  acid    and    3  of  pure  nitric  acid; 
squeeze  out  the  acid,  wash  with  water  until 
no  sensible  acidity  remains,  plunge  it  in  a 
weak  alkaline  solution,  then  in  water,  and  dry. 
By  friction  it  yields  a  large  quantity  of  resin- 
ous electricity. 

6321.  To  Make  Modeling  Clay. 
Knead  dry  clay  with  glycerine  instead  of 
water,  and  a  mass  is  obtained  which  continues 
moist  and  plastic  for  a  length  of  time,  thus 
removing  one  of  the  greatest  inconveniences 
experienced  by  the  modeler. 

6322.  To  Remove  Stains  from  Knives. 
The  very  best  way  to  clean  a  stained  steel 
knife  is  to  cut  a  solid  potato  in  two,  dip  one 
of  the  pieces  in  brick-dust  (such  as  is  usually 
used  for  knife-cleaning),  and  rub  the  blade 
with  it. 

6323.  To  Prevent  Ivory  Knife  Han- 
dles from  Cracking.     When  the  blades  of 
knives  require  washing  or  standing  in  water, 
it  should  be  done  in  a  pitcher,  with  water 
enough  to  cover  the  blades,  but  not  to  touch 
the  handles ;  and  the  water  no  hotter  than  is 
absolutely  necessary.     Soaking  the  handles  iu 
water  makes  them  crack. 

6324.  To  Cleanse  Goose  Feathers. 
Feathers  arc  prepared  by  exposing  them  to 
the  sunshine  or  in  a  stove  until  perfectly  dry, 
and  then  beating  them  to  remove  dust  and 
loose  dirt.     "When  carelessly  collected  and 
dirty,  they  may  bo  cleansed  with  lime-water ; 
or,  still  better,  with  a  weak  solution  of  car- 
bonate of  soda,  or  with  water  containing  a 
little  solution  of  chloride  of  lime ;  after  which 
they  are  rinsed  in  clean  water,  and  dried  as 
before.     (See  No.  659.)    Old  feathers  arc  puri- 
fied and  cleansed  in  tho  same  way. 

6325.  Coloring   Castor  Oil.     Make    a 
strong  tincture  of  turmeric  root  with  strong 
alcohol,  and  add  a  few  drops  to  the  oil  until 
you  have  the  desired  color.   Rather  than  being 


556 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


a  disadvantage,  it  will  prove  a  benefit,  tend- 
ing to  prevent  griping. 

6326.  Labels  for  Damp  Situations. 
"Write  on  the  back  of  adhesive  plaster.  Labels 
made  of  this  substance  are  not  affected  by 
damp,  and  adhere  strongly. 

6327.  To  Reproduce  a  Beautiful 
"White  on  Flannel  Goods  Turned  Yellow 
by  Age.  For  the  restoration  of  old  flannels 
to  their  original  color,  Professor  Artus  recom- 
mends the  following  method:  Dissolve  2J 
pounds  white  Marseilles  soap  in  75  pounds 
soft  water,  and  to  the  solution  add,  under  con- 
stant stirring,  1  ounce  liquor  ammonia.  The 
goods  are  soaked  in  this  fluid,  and  afterwards 
well  washed  with  water.  The  object  may  be 
accomplished,  however,  more  quickly,  by  put- 
ting the  goods  for  1  hour  in  a  dilute  solution 
of  bisulphite  of  soda,  and  adding,  under  con- 
stant stirring,  some  dilute  hydrochloric  acid, 
when  the  vessel  has  to  be  covered  and  the 
goods  left  in  it  for  15  minutes  longer.  They 
are  then  thoroughly  washed  in  water. 

6328.  Sizing  for  Holland  Linen.    The 
sizing  or  dressing  employed  for  the  Holland 
used  for  window  shades  is  prepared  as  follows : 
Take  1  part  crystallized  carbonate  of  soda;  4 
to  6  parts  each  white  wax,  stearine,  and  pure 
white  soap ;  20  parts  carbonate  of  magnesia 
or  fine  Paris  white ;  40  parts  potato  starch, 
and  160  parts  fine  wheat  starch.     Boil  these 
together  with  sufficient  water  to  make  1600 
parts    altogether.     A    little    xiltramarine    is 
added,  if  needed,  to  counteract  the  yellow 
tint  of  the  linen,  which  is  starched  with  this 

?  reparation,  passed  between  rollers,  and  dried, 
t  is  then  sprinkled  with  soap  water,  placed 
in  a  stamping  mill,  and  afterwards  steamed 
and  calendered. 

6329.  Starch  Lustre  is  a  substance  used 
for  washing  purposes,  which,  when  added  to 
starch,  causes  the  linen  to  which  it  is  applied 
to  assume  not  only  a  high  polish,  but  a  daz- 
zling whiteness.    A  piece  of  lustre  of  the  size 
of  a  copper  cent  added  to  \  pound  starch,  and 
boiled  with  it  for  2  or  3  minutes,  will  produce 
the  best  results.     The  starch  lustre  consists 
of  stearine,  colored  by  a  slight  addition  of 
ultramarine    blue,    the   essential    ingredient 
being  the  stearine ;  and,  with  or  without  the 
coloring  matter,  will  be  found  to  add  very 
much  to  the  beauty  of  linen  articles  to  which 
it  is  applied.     (See  Nos.  497,  $c.) 

6330.  To  Clean  Windows  and  Mir- 
rors.    Tie  up  some  finely  powdered  whiting 
in  a  small  piece  of  muslin.     Dab  it  over  the 
glass  thoroughly ;   the  dirtier  the  glass  the 
more  whiting  will  adhere  to  it.    E"ext  smear 
it  evenly  with  a  damp  rag,  and  let  it  remain 
until  perfectly  dry ;  then  rub  it  off  with  a 
leather.    This  is  an  easy,  clean,  and  thorough 
plan.    If  alcohol  be  used  instead  of  water,  it 
will  dry  in  much  less  time,  and  polishes  the 
glass  fully  better.   The  corners  of  the  window- 
panes    should    receive  particular   attention; 
they  are  too  often  left  dirty,  and  spoil  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  window. 

6331.  To  Wash  Mirrors  or  Windows. 
For   washing    finger-marks    from    looking- 
glasses  or  windows,  put  a  few  drops  of  am- 
monia on  a  moist  rag,  and  make  quick  work 
of  it. 

6332.  Ganteine.      A   composition    for 
cleaning  kid  gloves;  sometimes  improperly 


termed  Saponinc.  Dissolve  3  troy  ounces 
soap  by  heat  in  2  ounces  water,  and  when 
nearly  cold  add  2  ounces  javelle  water  and  1 
drachm  water  of  ammonia;  form  a  paste, 
whi  ;h  is  to  be  rubbed  over  the  glove  with 
flannel  till  sufficiently  clean. 

6333.  To  Clean  and  Preserve  Brew- 
ing  Utensils.      In    cleaning    them    before 
being  put  away,  avoid  the  use  of  soap,  or  any 
greasy  material,  and  use  only  a  brush  and 
scalding  water,  being  particularly  careful  not 
to  leave  any  yeast  or  fur  on  the  sides ;  then 
place  them  away  in  a  clean  and  moderately 
dry  situation.     Should  they  become  tainted 
or  mouldy,   take  a  strong  lye  of  pearlash, 
which  spread  over  the  bottoms  of  the  vessels 
scalding  hot,  and  then  with  the  broom  scrub 
the  sides  and  other  parts.     Or:  Take  common 
salt  and  spread  it  over  the  coolers,  <fec.,  and 
strew  some  on  their  wet  sides,  pour  in  scald- 
ing water  and  scrub  them  with  a  broom.    Or: 
Throw  some  quicklime  into  water  in  the  ves- 
sel, and  scrub  over  the  bottom  and  sides  with 
it ;  in  each  case  well  washing  afterwards  with 
clean  water.     Or :  "Wash  well  first  with  oil  of 
vitriol  diluted  with  8  times  its  weight  of  wa- 
ter, and  afterwards  with  clean  water. 

6334.  To  Restore  the  Color  of  an 
Acid  Stain  on  Violet  Silk.     Acid  dropped 
on  violet-colored  silk  destroys  the  color ;  to 
restore  it,   brush  the  discolored  stain  with 
tincture  of  iodine ;  then,  after  a  few  seconds, 
saturate  the  spot  well  with  a  solution  of  hy- 
posulphite of  soda,  and  dry  gradually;  the 
color  will  bo  perfectly  restored. 

6335.  To  Transfer  Engravings  onto 
Glass.     First  coat  the  glass  with  copal  var- 
nish, then  press  on  the  picture,  face  down- 
wards,  smoothly  and    tightly;    let   it    dry. 
Next  damp  the  paper  slightly,  and  rub  it  off 
with  the  finger,   leaving  the  picture  to  be 
looked  at  through  the  glass. 

6336.  To  Transfer   Engravings   on 
Wood,  Stone,  &c.     Take  a  saturated  alco- 
holic solution  of  potash,  pour  the  solution  on 
the  engraving,  and  immediately  remove  all 
the  superfluous  liquid  by  means  of  blotting 
paper.     Lay  the  engraving,  while  damp,  upon 
the  wood  or  other  material  to  which  it  is  to 
be  transferred,  and  place  it  in  a  press.     (A 
copper-plate     press  is  the  best.)    The  trans- 
fer will  be  obtained  immediately.    The  engra- 
ving must  be  immersed  in  clear,  cold  water, 
after  removal  from  the  potash  bath.     (Orr.) 

6337.  How  to  Wash  Printing  Rollers. 
Avoid   all   grit,  fund,  and   dirt;    simply  use 
strong  ley  to  loosen  the  ink,  and   quickly, 
with  a  soft  sponge,  wash  the  ley  off  with 
water  (in  winter  blood-warm)  squeezing  the 
sponge  dry,  face  up   the  roller,  so  that  no 
moisture  remain  therepn.     Let  it  then  stand 
exposed  to  the  air  one  hour,  machine  rollers 
two  hours,  before  distributing  ink  on  its  sur- 
face.    The  time  for  exposure  must  be  guided 
by  the  state  of  the  weather,  as  shorter  time 
will  do  in  dry  or  windy  weather.     Be  careful 
to  ink  the  roller  as  soon  as  possible  after 
exposure,  to  keep  it  tacky.     (Sec  No.  2542.) 

6338.  Gelatine    Capsules.     A    strong 
solution  is  made  of  6  parts  gelatine  and  1  part 
sugar;    the  extremity   of  a  rod  of  bulbous 
shape  is  oiled,  and  dipped  into  the  solution; 
when  the  rod  is  withdrawn  it  is  rotated,  in 
order  to  diffuse  the  fluid  jelly  equally  over  its 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


557 


surface ;  as  soon  as  the  gelatinous  film  has 
partially  hardened,  it  is  removed  from  the 
mould  and  placed  on  pins  furnished  with 
suitable  heads,  and  fixed  on  a  cork  table. 
When  dry,  the  capsules  are  placed  upright  in 
little  cells  made  in  the  table  to  receive  them, 
and  the  liquid  with  which  they  are  to  be 
filled  is  introduced  by  means  of  a  small  glass 
tube.  They  are  then  closed  by  dropping 
some  melted  gelatine  on  the  orifice  of  each. 
Ricord  recommends  that  capsules  containing 
copaiba  be  coated  with  extract  of  rhatany, 
which  is  easily  done  by  immersing  the  capsule 
far  an  instant  in  a  mixture  of  3  parts  newly 
prepared  extract  of  rhatany,  1  part  syrup  of 
moist  sugar,  and  1  part  mucilage  of  gum  ara- 
bic,  melted  together  in  a  water-bath.  Cap- 
sules thus  prepared  are  said  to  act  with  greater 
certainty,  as  well  as  improving  the  tone  of 
the  stomach. 

6339.  To  Remove  Nitrate  of  Silver 
Stains.     A  solution  of  iodide  of  potassium 
will    freely    dissolve    iodine.      Silver    stains 
moistened  for  a  while  with  this  solution  will 
be  converted  into  iodide  of  silver,  which  is  sol- 
uble iu  iodide  of  potassium.      The  stains  will 
therefore  have  disappeared  when  the  cloth, 
after  the  foregoing  treatment,  is  washed  in 
water.      (See  No.   385.)      Perhaps  the  best 
method  of  removing  these  stains  is  as  follows: 
The  stained  cloth  is  washed  with  a  concentra- 
ted solution  of  sulphate  or  chloride  of  zinc 
and  then  touched  with  a  piece  of  metallic 
zinc.    This  same  process  may  bo  used  for  the 
removal  of  ink  stains  in  both  cases  without 
danger  to  the  fabric.     After  the  color  has 
disappeared,  they  are  washed  first  with  pure 
water  and  then  with  water  and  soap.    No 
visible  traces  of  the  stains  are  left  behind. 
(See  No.  3141.) 

6340.  To  Remove  Nitrate  of  Silver 
Stains  from  Woven  Tissues.     According 
to  M.  Grimm,  chloride  of  copper  completely 
removes,   even  from    colored  woven  cotton 
tissues,  stains  occasioned  by  nitrate  of  silver; 
the  tissue  is  to  be  afterwards  washed  with  a 
solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda,  and  next 
thoroughly  washed  with  water.     From  white 
cotton    and  linen  tissues,   nitrate    of  silver 
stains  are  more  readily  and  effectually  re- 
moved by  applying  dilute  solution  of  perman- 
ganate of  potassa  and  hydrochloric  acid,  fol- 
lowed by  washing  with  hyposulphite  of  soda 
solution,  and  rinsing  in  plenty  of  fresh  water. 
By  these  means  the  use  of  the  highly  poison- 
ous cyanide  of  potassium  is  rendered  unneces- 
sary.    (Sec  Nos.  385  and  3141). 

6341.  To  Dissolve  Old  Blood  Stains. 
Dr.  Hehvig  recommends  a  solution  of  iodide 
of  potassium    in    four    times  its  weight  of 
water. 

6342.  Silk  Cleaner.    Mix  well  together 
i  pound  soft  soap,  a  tea-spoonful  of  brandy,  5 
pint  proof-spirit,  and  5  pint  water.     It  is  to 
be  spread  with  a  sponge  on  each  side  of  the 
silk  without  creasing  it ;  the  silk  is  then  rins- 
ed out  2  or  3  times,  and  ironed  on  the  wrong 
side.    (See  No.  460.) 

6343.  Fluid    for   Removing   Grease 
Stains  from  Silk,  &c.     A  fluid  for  remov- 
ing greasy  stains  from  silk,  &c.,  may  be  pre- 
pared by  mixing  2  ounces  rectified  spirits  of 
turpentine,  i  ounce  absolute   alcohol,  and 
ounce  sulphuric  ether. 


6344.  To  Remove  the  Stains  of  Ben- 
zine.    In  removing  grease  spots  from  fabrics 
by  means  of  benzine  or  petroleum  it  often 
happens  that  a  colored  and  stained  outline  of 
the  portion  moistened  is  left.     This  can  be 
prevented  by  the  application  of  a  layer  of 
gypsum  extending  a  little  beyond  the  moist- 
ened region.     When  dry,  the  powder  is  to  be 
shaken  and  brushed  off,  when  no  trace  of  the 
spot  will  remain. 

6345.  To  Clean  Silver.    To  clean  silver 
utensils,  blackened  by  sulphuretted  hydrogen, 
Boettger  recommends  a  boiling  saturated  solu- 
tion of  borax,  or  a  solution  ol  caustic  potash, 
with  some  fragments  of  metallic  zinc. 

6346.  To  Clean  a  Wedgwood  Mortar. 
A  solution  of  caustic  potash  will  usually  be 
effectual ;  this  may  be  triturated  in  the  mor- 
tar with  fine  sand  or  powdered  pumice-stone. 
Sometimes  sulphuric  acid  will  serve  a  better 
purpose.    Chlorinated  lime  (chloride  of  lime) 
will  sometimes  remove  the  color  where  it  is  a 
stain  merely. 

6347.  To  Dye  Gutta-Percha.   Dissolve 
1  ounce  gutta-percha  in  chloroform,  and  add  £ 
grain  of  pure  carmine,  previously  mixed  with 
a  little  powdered  gum  and  water ;  then  distill 
off  the  chloroform  and  knead  well  the  re- 
maining gutta-percha.    In  the  same  way  ul- 
tramarine, ochre,  oxide  of  chrome,  <fcc.,  may 
be  used. 

6348.  To  Clean  Gutta-Percha.    This 
can  be  done  by  using  a  mixture  of  soap  and 
powdered  charcoal,  polishing  afterwards  with 
a  dry  cloth  with  a  little  of  the  charcoal  on  it. 

6349.  To   Dye    Straw  Hats   Black. 
The  following  is  given  as  a  black  color  for 
straw  hats.    The  quantities  of  material  are 
intended  for  25  hats  or  bonnets.    They  are 
kept  for  2  hours  in  a  boiling  decoction  of  4 
pounds  logwood,  1  pound  sumach,  and  5  oun- 
ces fustic ;  and  afterwards  dipped  into  a  so- 
lution of  nitrate  of  iron  of  4°  Baume,  then 
well  rinsed  with  water,  and,  when  dry,  are 
painted  over  with  a  solution  of  lac  or  dex- 
trine. 

6350.  To  Dye  Leather  Yellow,    tic- 
ric  acid  gives  a  good  yellow  without  any 
mordant;  it  must  be  used  in  very  dilute  solu- 
tion, and  not  warmer  than  70°  Fahr.,  so  as 
not  to  penetrate  the  leather. 

6351.  To  Dye  Leather  Green.    Ani- 
line blue  modifies  picric  acid  to  a  fine  green. 
In  dyeing  the  leather,  the  temperature  of  85° 
Fahr.  must  never  be  exceeded. 

.  6352.  To  Dye  Leather  Green.  Aniline 
green  is  well  adapted  to  dyeing  leather,  and 
its  application  is  quite  simple.  "Whether 
used  in  paste  or  as  powder,  we  must  make  a 
concentrated  aqueous  solution.  The  leather 
is  brushed  over  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of 
ammonia,  mixed  with  water,  the  dye  solution 
applied  at  95°  Fahr.,  and  it  must  be  endeav- 
ored, by  rapid  manipulation,  to  prevent  the 
dye  from  penetrating  through  the  leather. 
By  the  addition  of  picric  acid,  the  blueish 
shade  of  this  dye-stuff  is  modified  to  leaf 
green,  and  it  becomes  faster ;  but  the  picrio 
acid  must  not  be  added  to  the  color  solution ; 
it  must  be  applied  to  the  leather  before  or 
after  the  dyeing  with  aniline  green.  (Spring- 
tnuhl.) 

6353.    Slating  for  Black-Boards.   The 
imitations  of  slate  are  of  two  kinds,  real  iioi- 


558 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


tations,  consisting  of  pulverized  slate  or 
quartz  rock  moistened  to  the  consistency  of  a 
thick  fluid  with  silicate  of  soda  (water-glass  of 
commerce),  and  applied  to  the  boards  by 
means  of  a  brush ;  or  merely  paints,  such  as 
asphaltum  or  Grahamite  dissolved  in  petro- 
leum naphtha.  The  first  one  will  produce 
slates  that  are  very  similar  to  the  natural 
elates,  less  expensive  than  those,  and  last  a 
good  while. 

6354.  Asphalt   for   Walks.     Take   2 
parts  very  dry  lime  rubbish,  and  1  part  coal- 
ashes,  also  very  dry,  and  both  sifted  fine.    In 
a  dry  place,  on  a  dry  day,  mix  them,  and 
leave  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  heap,  as 
bricklayers  do  when  making  mortar.    Into 
this  pour  boiling  hot  coal-tar ;  mix,  and  when 
as  stiff  as  mortar  put  it  3  inches  thick  where 
the  walk  is  to  be ;  the  ground  should  be  dry, 
and  beaten  smooth.     Sprinkle  over  it  coarse 
sand.    "When  cold,  pass  a  light  roller  over  it ; 
in  a  few  days  the  walk  will  be  solid  and 
waterproof. 

6355.  To  Make  Gravel  Walks.    The 
bottom    should    be   laid  with    lime-rubbish, 
large  flint  stones,  or  any  other  hard  matter, 
for  8  or  10  inches,  to  keep  weeds  from  grow- 
ing through,  and  over  this  the  gravel  is  to  be 
laid  6  or  8  inches  thick.    This  should  be  laid 
rounding  up  in  the  middle,  by  which  means 
the  larger  stones  will  run  off  to  the  sides,  and 
may  be  raked  away ;  for  the  gravel  should 
never  be  screened  before  it  is  laid  on.    It  is  a 
common  mistake  to  lay  these  walks  too  round, 
which  not  only  makes  them  uneasy  to  walk 
upon,    but    takes    off  from    their    apparent 
breadth.     1  inch  in  5  feet  is  a  sufficient  pro- 
portion for  the  rise  in  the  middle ;  so  that  a 
walk  20  feet  wide  should  be  4  inches  higher 
at  the  middle  than  at  the  edges,  and  so  in 
proportion.     As  soon  as  the  gravel  is  laid,  it 
should  be  raked,  and  the  large  stones  thrown 
back  again ;  then  the  whole  should  be  rolled 
both  lengthwise  and  crosswise  ;  and  the  per- 
son who  draws  the  roller  should  wear  shoes 
without  heels,  that  he  may  make  no  holes,  be- 
cause holes  made  in  a  new  walk  are  not  easily 
remedied.   The  walks  should  always  be  rolled 
3  or  4  times  'after  very  hard  showers,  which 
will  bind  them  more  firmly  than  could  be  ac- 
complished by  any  other  method. 

6356.  Polishing  Powder  for  Specula. 
Precipitate   a  dilute   solution  of  sulphate  of 
iron  by  ammonia  in  excess ;  wash  the  precip- 
itate, press  it  in  a  screw  press  till  nearly  dry, 
then  expose  it  to  heat  until  it  appears  of  a 
dull  red  color  in  the  dark.     (Lord  Ross.) 

6357.  To  Make  a  Voltaic  Pile.    Take 
disks  of  copper,  zinc,  and  woolen  cloth  of  any 
size,  soak  the  cloth  in  a  solution  of  sal-ammo- 
niac, then  pile  them  up  in   the    following 
order:  Copper,  zinc,  cloth,  and  so  on.    The 
relative  position  of  the  metals  in  each  pair 
must  be  observed  throughout  the  whole  series, 
so  that,  if  the  pile  commences  with  a  copper 
plate,  it  shall  terminate  with  a  zinc    one. 
These  two  extremes  are  called    the    poles. 
Zinc  is  called  the  positive  pole,  and  copper 
the  negative  pole.    The  outer  disks  are  con- 
nected with  copper  wire,  that  the  electric  or 
galvanic  stream  which  is  excited  in  the  pile 
may  be  conveyed  to  any  place  desired.    When 
the  two  ends  of  the  wires  are  brought  very 
near  to  each  other,  sparks  are  seen  to  dart 


from  one  to  the  other;  this  is  a  token  of  the 
galvanic  current,  manifesting  itself  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  current  of  the  electrical 
machine.  The  larger  the  disks  and  the 
greater  their  number,  the  greater  is  the  inten- 
sity of  the  current. 

6358.  To  Make   a   Cistern.     A  good 
cistern  can  be  made  in  a  solid  clay  soil,  if 
not  in  an  exposed  situation,   by   cementing 
against  the  sides  of  the  ground.     Where  the 
ground    freezes    we  would    not    recommend 
such  a  practice,   but  lay  a  wall  of  cobble- 
stones in  a  mortar  of  cement,  and  face  the 
wall  with  a  thick  coating  of  clear  mortar. 
Great  care  must  be  exercised  to  get  good  ce- 
ment, and  mix  it  with  coarse   sand.    Fine 
sand  will  not  do  at  all.      1  part  cement  and  3 
parts  sand  is  the  usual  proportion,  to  be  used 
as  soon  as  mixed.     Every  part  of  the  wall 
must  be  laid  below  the  reach  of  the  frost. 
This  can  be  done,  and  an  iron  or  wooden  pine 
or  throat  lead  to  the  surface,  through  whicn 
the  pump  can  pass.     A  cheap  and  excellent 
cistern  can  be  constructed  of  wood,  in  the 
form  of  a  large  cask,  or  a  tank  made  of  pine 
or  cedar  plank.    When  sunk  into  the  ground, 
and  kept  constantly  wet,  it  will  last  for  years. 
A  better  way  is  to  place  the  tank  or  cask  in 
one  corner  of  the  cellar,  with  a  faucet  in  the 
bottom,  from  which  the  water  is  easily  drawn 
when  it  is  desirable  to  clean  it  out  and  when 
water  is  required  in  the  cellar.     An  open  cis- 
tern in  a  cellar  will  rarely  freeze. 

6359.  To  Purify  Water.     Chloride  of 
iron  and  carbonate  of  soda,  in  the  proportion 
of  10  parts  by  weight  of  the  former  salt  and 
26£  of  the  latter  to  a  quantity  of  water  equal 
to  20,000  parts,  has  been  found  a  most  valua- 
ble and  quite  innocuous  means  of  purifying 
water,  even  such  as  is  otherwise  quite  unfit 
for  drinking  purposes,  and  could  not  be  ren- 
dered fit  by  alum.    The  salts  alluded  to  are 
best  previously  dissolved  in  some  pure  water, 
and  the  solutions,  that  of  iron  first,  poured 
into  the  tank  containing  the  water  intended  to 
be  operated  upon.     The  soda  solution  is  not 
added  until  after  a  few  moments,  the  water 
being  first  vigorously  stirred.     The  soda  solu- 
tion having  been  added,  the  fluid  is  stirred 
again,  and  then  left  quiet  for  the  purpose  of 
allowing  the  very  bulky  and  floculent  sedi- 
ment   to    deposit;    this    takes    considerable 
time — from  24  to  36  hours. 

6360.  Gutta-Percha  Tissue.     If  a  so- 
lution of  gutta-percha  in  chloroform  be  mixed 
with  3  parts  of  ether  and  exposed  for  some 
time  to  a  temperature  below  15°  Fahr.,  the 
gutta-percha  will  be  precipitated  as  a  white 
powder,  forming,  when  washed  and  dried,  a 
soft  white  mass.     If  some  of  this  solution  be 
spread  on  a  plate  of  glass,  a  skin  is  formed,  re- 
sembling kid-glove  leather,   which  becomes 
transparent  on  the  application  of  heat.    These 
films  are  beautifully  white   if  carefully  pre- 
pared, and  have  been  employed  in  the  manu- 
facture of  the  finest  kinds  of  artificial  flowers. 

6361.  Mosaic    Silver.      Take    2    parts 
each  pure  tin  and  purified  bismuth,  melt  them 
together  by  a  moderate  heat,  and  add  1  part 
purified  mercury.      When  cold    reduce    the 
mass  to  a  fine  powder.     (Eager.) 

6362.  Mosaic  Gold.     Melt    12    ounces 
pure  tin,  by  a  gentle  heat,  add  6  ounces  mer- 
cury, and  reduce  to  powder ;  when  cold,  add 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


559 


6  ources  muriate  of  ammonia,  and  7  ounces 
flowers  of  sulphur;  mix  thoroughly.  Place 
tho  compound  in  a  glass  flask,  and  gradually 
heat  to  redness  in  a  sand-bath,  continuing  the 
heat  till  all  white  fumes  cease;  during  this 
operation  bisulphuret  of  mercury,  muriate  of 
tin  and  sal-ammoniac  are  sublimed,  leaving 
the  mosaic  gold  at  the  bottom  of  the  flask  in 
soft,  brilliant,  gold-colored  flakes.  Mosaic 
gold,  also  called  Aurum  Musivum,  is  therefore 
the  bisulphuret  of  tin.  (Cooley.} 

6363.  To  Preserve  Pencil  and  Indian 
Ink  Sketches.     To  a  solution  of  collodion 
of  the   consistency   used  by  photographers, 
add  2  per  cent,  of  stearine.     The  drawing  is 
then  spread  on  a  board  or  plate  of  glass  and 
the  collodion  poured  over  it  as  in  photography. 
(Sec  No.  3143.)     It  dries  in  10  to  20  minutes, 
and  so  thoroughly  protects  the  drawing  that 
it  may  be  washed  without  fear  of  injury. 

6364.  Golden  Compound.     Melt  anhy- 
drous tungstate  of  soda  in  a  porcelain  crucible, 
over  a  spirit  lamp,  at  a  temperature  not  more 
than  sufficient  to  fuse  it.    Add  small  pieces  of 
pure  tin  to  the  melted  mass,  and  cubes  of  a 
golden    color    instantly  form.    The    process 
should  not  be  continued  too  long,  or  they  ac- 
quire a  purple  hue. 

6365.  Ink  for  Writing  on  Tin  Plates. 
Mix  together  without  heat,  1  part  pine  soot, 
with  60  parts  of  an  aqueous  solution  of  nitrate 
of  copper.     (Rafter.) 

6366.  Black    Stencil   Ink.    Triturate 
together  1  part  pine  soot  and  2  parts  Prussian 
blue  with  a  little  glycerine,  then  add  3  parts 
gum  arabic,  and  sufficient  glycerine  to  form  a 
thin  paste. 

6367.  Factitious  Beef  Marrow.    Mix 
together,  by  dissolving  at  a  gentle  heat,  2 
parts    fresh    hogs'   lard    and    1    part    cacao 
butter. 

6368.  To  Obtain  Absolute  Alcohol. 
A  German  savant  has  recently  improved  on 
the   well-known  method  employed  by  Men- 
delejeff,    for     obtaining     absolute     alcohol. 
Strong  alcohol  is  boiled  with  quicklime,  the 
pieces  of  the  latter  projecting  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  liquid  for  •£  hour  or  more,  with  a 
condenser  inverted  so  that  the  liquid  may  re- 
turn by  its  own  gravity  to  the  flask.     The 
condenser  is  then  reversed,  and  the  alcohol 
redistilled.      If   the    alcohol   contains    more 
than  5  per  cent,  of  water,  the  process  must  be 
repeated  2  or  3  times.    The  vessel  should 
only  be  half  filled  with  the  pieces  of  lime,  as 
the  rapid  formation  of  hydrate  of  lime  may 
break  it  to  pieces.     (See  No.  1442.) 

6369.  Bougie.     A  long  slender  instru- 
ment, introduced  into  the  urethra,   oesopha- 
gus,  or  rectum,   to   overcome    strictures    of 
those  canals.     Add  3  parts  boiled  linseed  oil 
to  1  part  melted  amber,  and  when  mixed  add 
1  part  oil  of  turpentine  ;  spread  the  mixture 
at  3  successive  intervals  upon  loose  spun  silk 
cord  or  web,  dry  in  a  heat  of  150°  Fahr.,  and 
repeat  the  process  until  the  instrument  has 
acquired    the    proper  size,  then  polish,   first 
with  pumice-stone,  and  afterwards  with  tripo- 
li  and  oil.     This  is  the  original  receipt  of  the 
French  Professor  Pickel,  and  is  still  generally 
used  in    Europe,    slightly    modified '  as   fol- 
lows :     Add  to  the  oil  and  amber,  melted  to- 
gether  as  last,  caoutchouc  in  the  proportion 
of  5^  of  the  weight  of  the  oil    employed ; 


when  dissolved,  remove  the  vessel  from  the 
fire  and  proceed  as  before. 

6370.  Hunter's  Bougie.     Boil  slowly 
together,  until    combination  takes    place,  2 
parts  yellow  wax,  3  parts  red  lead,  and  6  parts 
olive  oil ;  strips  of  soft  linen,  rather  wider  at 
one  end  than  the  other,  are  then  dipped  into 
the  composition,  rolled  up  firmly,  and  finish- 
ed on  a  polished  slab. 

6371.  Catheters,  or  Hollow  Bougies. 
These  are  made  of  the  same  composition  as 
the  ordinary  bougies,  but  a  piece  of  polished 
metallic  wire  is  introduced  into  the  axis  of  the 
silk ;  or  tinfoil  is  rolled  round  the  wire  and 
the  composition  applied  as  before. 

6372.  Caoutchouc,    or  Elastic  Gum 
Bougies.     These  are  made  by  applying  an 
ethereal  solution  of  india-rubber  to  the  silk  or 
foil  prepared  as  in   the  foregoing  methods. 
"Where  ether  is  expensive  naphtha  is  employ- 
ed, but  it  furnishes  a  very  inferior  product. 
Sometimes    slips  of  india-rubber   previously 
boiled  in  water,  or  that  have  had  their  edges 
softened  with  ether,  are  wound  round  tho 
wire  or  foil,  and  kept  in  their  place  by  a  piece 
of  tape  applied  over  them,  as  in  making  elas- 
tic tubes.      They  are    afterwards    carefully 
smoothed  off  and  polished. 

6373.  To  Prevent  Lamp  Chimneys 
from  Cracking.     Put  the  chimneys  into  a 
kettle  of  cold  water,   and  gradually  heat  it 
until  it  boils,  and  then  let  it  as  gradually  cool ; 
the  chimneys  will  not  be  broken  by  the  ordi 
nary  fluctuation  of  the  flame  of  the  lamp. 

6374.  To  Mend  Bubber  Overshoes, 
&c.     Rub  the    patch  and  shoe  thoroughly 
with  sharp  sand  paper.      Smear  both    with 
liquid  rubber  5  times,  every  time  letting  them 
dry.     Do  this  once  more,  and,  before  they 
dry,  apply  the  patch,  with  pressure  if  possi- 
ble, and  the  boot  is  mended.     If  liquid  rubber 
is  not  obtainable,  dissolve  small  pieces  of  pure 
rubber  (not  vulcanized),  in  warm  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine, to  the  consistence  of  syrup. 

6375.  To  Preserve  and  Restore  Oil 
Paintings.     Many  valuable  paintings  suffer 
premature  decay  from  the  attacks  of  a  mi- 
croscopic insect  of  the  mite  class.     The  best 
method  of  preventing  this  species  of  decay 
is  to  add  a  few  drops  of  creosote  to  the  paste 
and  glue  used  to  line  the  picture,  as  well  as  to 
make  a  similar  addition  to  the  varnish.     If  it 
has  already  commenced,  the  painting  should 
be  at  once  carefully  cleaned  and  relined,  ob- 
serving to  employ  a  little  creosote  in  the  way 
just  mentioned.    Paintings  should  be  kept  in 
as  pure  an  atmosphere  as  possible,  and  in  a 
moderately  dry  situation ;  as  it  is  the  pres- 
ence of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  in  the  air  that 
blackens   the  "  lights, "  and  causes   most  of 
tho  middle  tints  and  shades  to  fade ;  and  it  is 
exposure  to  damp  that  produces  mouldiness 
and  decay  of  the  canvas.     For  this  reason 
valuable    paintings    should  not  be  kept  in 
churches,  nor  suspended  against  heavy  walls 
of  masonry,  especially  in    badly   ventilated 
buildings.     Excess  of  light,  particularly  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun,  also  acts  injuriously  on 
paintings.     The  blackened  lights  of  old  pic- 
tures may  be  instantly  restored  to  their  origi- 
nal hue  by  touching  them  with  deutoxide  of 
hydrogen,  diluted  with  6  or  8  times  its  weight 
of  water.  The  part  must  be  afterwards  washed 
with  a  clean  sponge  and  water. 


560 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


6376.  Compressed.  Leather.    A  new 

process  for  using  the  clippings  and  refuse  from 
saddlers'  and  shoemakers'  shops  is  as  fol 
lows:  The  leather  shavings  are  washed 
clean,  cut  up  fine,  and  soaked  in  water  and 
sulphuric  acid,  1  per  cent,  of  the  acid  being 
sufficient.  The  immersion  must  continue  till 
the  shavings  become  plastic,  and  the  leather 
then  can  be  pressed  into  moulds  with  only  a 
moderate  amount  of  pressure.  It  can  be 
rolled  into  thin  sheets,  and  will  be  useful  for 
many  purposes ;  it  will  not,  however,  resist 
moisture.  A  little  glycerine  rubbed  in  will 
prevent  its  cracking. 

6377.  To  Bender  Walls  Water-tight. 
It  is  proposed  by  Mr.  F.  Eansome,  of  Lon- 
don, to  render  stone  and  brick  walls  water- 
proof by  coating  them  to  saturation  with  a 
solution  of  silicate  of  soda,  which  is  superfi- 
cially decomposed  by  the  further  application 
of  chloride  of  calcium.     The  surface  thus 
obtained  consists  of  silicate  of  lime,  which  is 
perfectly  insoluble,  and  therefore  water-tight, 
while  it  does  not  alter  the  appearance  of  the 
wall.     (See  No.  2171.) 

6378.  To   Wash   Silks.     No   person 
should  ever  wring  or  crush  a  piece  of  silk 
When  it  is  wet,  because  the  creases  thus  made 
will  remain  forever  if  the  silk  is  thick  and 
hard.    The  way  to  wash  silk  is  to  spread  it 
smoothly  upon  a  clean  board,  rub  white  soap 
upon  it,  and  brush  it  with  a  clean  hard  brush. 
The  silk  nntst  be  rubbed  until  all  the  grease 
is  extracted,  then  the  soap  should  be  brushed 
.off  with  clean  cold  water,  applied  to  both 
sides.    The  cleansing  of  silk  is  a  very  nice 
operation.    Most  of  the  colors  are  liable  to 
be  extracted  with  washing  in  hot  suds,  espe- 
cially blue  and  green  colors.    A  little  alum, 
dissolved  in  the  last  water  that  is  brushed  on 
eilk,  tends  to  prevent  the  colors  from  running. 
Alcohol  and  camphene,  mixed  together,  are 
used  for  removing  grease  from  silk. 

6379.  To  Extinguish  Fires.    Dr.  Clan- 
ny's  solution  consists  of  5  ounces  sal-ammo- 
niac to  1  gallon  water.    The  compound  used 
in  Phillip's  Fire  Annihilator  is  said  to  consist 
of  dried  prussiate  of  potash,  sugar,  and  chlor- 
ate of  potash. 

6380.  To  Prevent  Mouldiness.    The 
best  preventive  is  any  of  the  essential  oils,  as 
the  oil  of  lavender,  cloves,  peppermint,  &c. 
Eussia  leather,  which  is  scented  with  the  tar 
of  the  birch  tree,  is  not  subject  to  mouldiness, 
and  books  bound  in  it  will   even    prevent 
mouldiness  in  other  books  bound  in  calf,  near 
which  they  happen  to  lie. 

6381.  To   Keep   Gum-Arabic  from 
Moulding.      Solutions  of  gum-arabic   soon 
mould  and  sour,  and  finally  lose  their  adhe- 
sive property.    It  is  said  that  sulphate  of 
quinine  will  prevent  this,  while  it  imparts  no 
bad  odor  of  its  own.    The  addition  of  a  solu- 
tion of  a  few  crystals  of  this  salt  to  gum-ara- 
bic will  prevent  the  formation  of  mould  quite 
as  effectually  as  carbolic  acid,  and  by  analogy 
it  is  safe  to  suppose  that  the  same  salt  could 
be  used  in  wilting  ink,  mucilage,  and,  possibly, 
glue. 

6382.  To  Prevent  the  Formation  of 
a  Crust  in  Tea-kettles.     Keep  an  oyster- 
shell  in  your  tea-kettle.    By  attracting  the 
stony  particles  to  itself,  it  will  prevent  the 
formation  of  a  crust. 


6383.  Bird  Lime.     Boil  the  middle  bark 
of  the  holly  7  or  8  hours  in  water ;  drain  it, 
and  lay  it  in  heaps  in  the  ground,  covered 
with  stones,  for  2  or  3  weeks,  till  reduced  to 
a  mucilage.     Beat  this  in  a  mortar,  wash  it  in 
rain  water,  and  knead  it  till  free  from  extra- 
neous matters.     Put  it  into  earthen  pots,  and 
in  4  or  5  days  it  will  be  fit  for  use.    An  infe- 
rior kind  is  made  by  boiling  linseed  oil  for  some 
hours,  until  it  becomes  a  viscid  paste. 

6384.  Substitutes  for  Lenses.     Pro- 
cure  a  piece  of  thin  platinum  wire,  and  twino 
it  once  or  twice  round  a  pin's  point,  so  as  to 
form  a  minute  ring  with  a  handle  to  it.    Break 
up  a  piece  of  flint  glass  into  fragments  a  little 
larger  than  mustard  seed ;  place  one  of  these 
pieces  on  the  ring  of  wire,  and  hold  it  in  the 
point  of  the  flame  of  a  candle  or  gas-light. 
The  glass  will  melt  and  assume  a  complete 
lens-like  or  globular  form.     Let  it  cool  grad- 
ually, and  keep  it  for  mounting.     Others  are 
to  be  made  in  the  same  manner ;  and  if  the 
operation  be  carefully  conducted    but  very 
few  will  be  imperfect.     The  smaller  the  drop 
melted,  the  higher  in  general  will  be  its  mag- 
nifying power.     It  may  be  mounted  by  plac- 
ing it  between  two  pieces  of  brass  -which 
have  corresponding  circular  holes  cut  in  them, 
of  such  size  as  to  hold  the  edge  of  the  lens. 
They  are  then  to  be  cemented  together.    A 
perfectly  round  glass  globe  filled  with  pure 
water  also  makes  a  powerful  lens. 

6385.  Ether  Glue.     An  excellent  liquid 
glue  is  made  by  dissolving  glue  in  nitric  ether. 
The  ether  will  only  dissolve  a  certain  amount 
of  glue,  consequently  the  solution  cannot  be 
made  very  thick.     The   glue  thus  made  is 
about  the  consistency  of  molasses,   and  is 
doubly  as  tenacious  as  that  made  with  hot 
water.    If  a  few  bits  of  india-rubber,  cut  into 
scraps  the  size  of  buck-shot,  be  added,  and 
the  solution  be  allowed  to  stand  a  few  days, 
being  stirred  frequently,  it  will  be  all  the 
better,  and  will  resist  dampness  twice  as  well 
as  glue  made  with  water. 

6386.  Brick-Dust  Cement.     Ordinary 
brick  dust,  made  from  hard  burned,  finely- 
pulverized  bricks,  and  mixed  with  common 
lime  and  sand,  is  a  good  substitute  for  hy- 
draulic  cement.      The    proportions  used    in 
general  practice  are  1  part  brick-dust  and  1  of 
lime  to  2  of  sand,  mixed  together  dry,  and 
tempered  with  water  in  the  usual  way. 

6387.  Cement  for  a  Crack  in  a  Cast- 
iron  Pot.     If  the  crack  be  in  the  bottom  of 
the  pot,  drill  a  hole  at  each  extreme  end  of 
the  crack,  to  stop  further  cracking,  plug  rivet 
the  holes  with  copper,  and,  with  fine  iron  fil- 
ings saturated  with  urine,  caulk  the  crack. 
This  method  has  been   tried   on  oil-pots  on 
board  whale  phips  with  success. 

6388.  The  Drummond  Light.     This 
brilliant    light    is    produced    by   directing   a 
stream  of  oxygen  gas,  passing  through  the 
flame  of  a  spirit  lamp,  upon  a  small  ball  of 
quicklime  of  about  |  inch  in  diameter.    It 
gives  an  intense  light;  and,   placed  in  the  fo- 
cus of  a  parabolic  mirror,  has  been  distinctly 
seen  at  a  distance  of  60  miles. 

6389.  Doebereiner's    Self-Igniting 
Lamp.     Take  an  ordinary  fruit  jar,  with  a 
cork  stopper  or  leaden  cover;    procure   any 
old  bottle  that  will  go  into  the  jar,   at  least 
two  thirds  as  tall  as  the  jar.     Cut  off  the  bot- 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


561 


torn  of  the  bottle  either  with  a  file  or  by 
wrapping  a  piece  of  candle-wick  soaked  in 
alcohol  around  it,  burning  the  wick,  and  dip- 
ping in  water  while  hot.  (See  Nos.  2367,  ^-c.) 
A  hole  is  cut  in  the  cork  or  lead  cover,  to 
admit  the  neck  of  the  bottle  and  prevent  it 
resting  on  the  bottom  of  the  jar.  The  bottle 
is  closed  with  a  cork  fitted  with  a  short  glass 
tube  bent  at  right  angles  and  drawn  to  a  fine 
opening.  Some  pieces  of  zinc  are  suspended 
in  the  bottle  by  a  wire  or  little  basket  of  lead. 
The  jar  is  then  filled  to  about  one-half  with 
dilute  sulphuric  acid.  The  acid,  coming  in 
contact  with  the  zinc,  generates  hydrogen 
gas,  which  escapes  from  the  glass  tube.  The 
mixture  of  air  and  gas  being  highly  explo- 
sive, the  lamp  should  not  be  ignited  until  all 
the  air  has  been  expelled.  After  the  air  has 
escaped,  a  piece  of  spongy  platinum  may  be 
placed  a  little  distance  from  the  point  of  the 
tube.  The  gas,  impinging  on  the  platinum, 
heats  it  sufficiently  to  ignite  itself.  The  es- 
cape of  gas  may  be  cut  off  by  slipping  a  rub- 
ber tube  closed  at  one  end  over  the  glass  tube, 
or  a  tube  with  a  stop-cock  may  be  used.  As 
soon  as  the  escape  of  gas  is  cut  off,  its  pres- 
sure drives  the  acid  out  of  the  bottle  into  the 
jar,  and  no  more  gas  is  generated.  Pieces  of 
spongy  platinum  mounted  on  wires  suitable 
for  this  use  may  be  obtained  of  dealers  in 
chemical  apparatus.  The  lamp  may  also  be 
purchased  complete  from  the  same  parties. 

6390.  Pencils  for  Writing  on  Glass. 
Take  4  parts  stearic  acid,  3  parts  mutton  suet, 
and  2  parts  wax;  melt  them  together   and 
add  6  parts  red  lead  and  1  part  purified  car- 
bonate    of  potassa,    previously    thoroughly 
triturated  together.     Set  the  mixture  aside 
for  an  hour  in  a  warm  situation,  stirring  fre- 
quently, then  pour  it  into  glass  tubes  or  hol- 
low reeds. 

6391.  Elastic    Cement.      Dissolve    1 
drachm  gutta-percha  in  1  ounce  or  more  bi- 
sulphide of  carbon,  so  as  to  make  a  fluid  that 
will  easily  pass  through  coarse  filtering  paper. 
After  filtering,  add  about  15  grains  pure  india- 
rubber,  and  let  it  dissolve;  or,  when  it  has 
become  soft  and  gelatinous,  quickly  rub  the 
whole  smooth  with  a  palette  knife  on  a  slab. 

6392.  To  Mend  a  Balloon  or  Gas-Bag. 
Paint  4  or  more  coats  of  the  varnish  described 
in  the  last  receipt,  around  the  hole  in  the  bag, 
allowing  each  coat  to  dry  before  the  applica- 
tion of  the  next.     Treat  a  piece  of  fine  strong 
muslin  in  the  same  way.     The  last  coat  on 
each  should  be  pretty  thick,  and,  when  nearly 
dry,  apply  the  patch  to  the  bag,  and  press 
evenly  and  quite  firmly  together.    "When  at 
last  the  whole  is  dry,  press  with  a  warm  iron, 
and  then  paint  the  surface  of  the  new  piece 
with  a  coat  or  two  of  the  varnish.    If  nicely 
done,   the   bag  will    be  as  strong    as  ever. 
Chloroform  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  bisul- 
phide of  carbon. 

6393.  Improvement  in  Ink-Erasers. 
The  Great  Lightning  Ink-Eraser  may  be  used 
instead  of  a  knife  or  scraper  for  erasing  ink, 
in  order  to  rectify  a  mistake  or  clean  off  a 
blot  without  injury  to  the  paper,  leaving  the 
paper  as  clean  and  good  to  write  upon  as  it 
was  before  the  mistake  or  blot  was  made,  and 
without  injury  to  the  printer's  ink  upon  any 
printed  form,  or  the  ruling  upon  any  first-class 
paper.     Take  of  chloride  of  lime  1  pound, 


thoroughly  pulverized,  and  4  quarts  soft  wa- 
ter. The  above  must  be  thoroughly  shaken 
when  first  put  together.  It  is  required  to 
stand  24  hours  to  dissolve  the  chloride  of 
lime;  then  strain  through  a  cotton  cloth; 
after  which  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  acetic  acid 
(No.  8  commercial)  to  every  ounce  of  the 
chloride  of  lime  water.  The  eraser  is  used 
by  reversing  the  pen-holder  in  the  hand,  dip- 
ping the  end  of  the  pen-holder  into  the  fluid, 
and  applying  it,  without  rubbing,  to  the 
word,  figure,  or  blot  required  to  be  erased. 
"When  the  ink  has  disappeared,  absorb  the 
fluid  with  a  blotter,  and  the  paper  is  imme- 
diately ready  to  write  upon  again.  Chloride 
of  lime  has  before  been -used  with  acids  for 
the  purpose  as  above  proposed;  but  in  all 
previous  processes  the  chloride  of  lime  has 
been  mixed  with  acids  that  burn  and  destroy 
the  paper. 

6394.  To   Preserve   Clothes   Pins. 
Clothes    pins    boiled    a   few    moments    and 
quickly  dried,  once  or  twice  a  month,  become 
more  flexible  and  durable.     Clothes  lines  will 
last  longer  and  keep  in  better  order  if  occa- 
sionally treated  in  the  same  way. 

6395.  To   Fasten   Loose    Window 
Sashes.     The  most  convenient  way  to  pre- 
vent loose  window  sashes  from  rattling  un- 
pleasantly when  the  wind  blows  is  to  make 
four  one-sided  buttons  of  wood,  and  screw 
them  to  the  beading  which  is  nailed  to  the 
casings  of  the  window,  making  each  button 
of  proper  length  to  press  the  side  of  the  sash 
outwards  when  the    end  of   the  button    is 
turned  down  horizontally.     The  buttons  ope- 
rate like  a  cam.     By  having  them  of  the  cor- 
rect length  to  crowd  the  stiles  of  the  sash 
outwards  against  the  outer  stop  of  the  win- 
dow frame,  the  sash  will  not  only  be  held  so 
firmly  that  it  cannot  rattle,  but  the  crack 
which  admitted  dust  and  a  current  of  cold 
air  will  be  closed  so  tightly  that  no  window 
strips  will  be  required.     The  buttons  should 
be  placed  about  half  way  between  the  upper 
and  lower  end  of  each  sash. 

6396.  To  Detect  a  Counterfeit  Bank 
of  England  Note.  The  Bank  of  England 
possesses  no  security  which  may  not  be  known 
by  any  person  who  will  make  himself  ac- 
quainted with  the  following  characteristics  of 
the  paper,  the  plate  printing  and  the  type  print- 
ing of  the  note.  The  paper  is  distinguished : 
By  its  peculiar  color,  such  as  is  neither  sold 
in  the  stores  nor  used  for  any  other  purpose. 
By  its  thinness  and  transparency,  qualities 
which  prevent  any  portion  of  the  printing  on 
the  note  being  washed  or  scratched  out  with- 
out a  hole  being  made.  By  its  characteristic 
feel,  which  consists  of  a  singular  crispnessand 
toughness,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  bank 
paper  is  made  from  new  linen  and  cotton,  not 
from  rags.  By  the  peculiar  wire-mark  or 
water-mark,  which  can  only  be  produced 
when  the  paper  is  in  a  state  of  pulp ;  conse- 
quently the  forger  must  procure  a  mould,  and 
make  his  own  paper,  both  requiring  the  skill 
of  such  first-rate  artisans  as  are  not  likely  to 
be  met  with  in  the  haunts  of  crime.  By  the 
three  deckle  or  rough  edges.  These  edges 
are  produced  when  the  paper  is  in  pulp ;  two 
notes  being  placed  in  the  mould,  and  divided 
lengthways,  hence  the  top  and  bottom,  or 
long  edges,  are  both  rough.  The  deckle  is 


562 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


tho  raw  edge  of  the  paper,  and  cannot  be  imi- 
tated by  cutting.  By  the  strength  of  the  pa- 
per— a  bank  note  will  lift  a  hundred  weight  if 
carefully  adjusted.  The  printing  is  of  two 
kinds,  type  and  plate;  the  paper  is  moistened 
by  water  driven  through  its  pores  by  the 
pressure  of  the  atmosphere  ;  30,000  double 
notes  are  thus  moistened  in  the  space  of  an 
hour.  The  ink  used  is  made  at  the  bank, 
from  linseed  oil  and  the  charred  husks  and 
vines  of  Rhenish  grapes ;  this  gives  a  pecu- 
liar velvety  black  to  the  mark  in  the  left-hand 
corner  of  the  note.  The  notes  are  numbered 
by  a  machine  which  cannot  err;  and,  lastly, 
are  authorized  by  the  signature  of  the  clerk. 
The  bank  notes  are  printed  on  the  side  of  the 
paper  which  receives  the  water  mark,  so  that, 
if  the  paper  be  split,  the  imprinted  surface 
only  retains  the  slightest  trace  of  that  mark. 

6397.  To    Flatten   Engravings    or 
Paper  that  has  been  Rolled  Up.    To  suc- 
ceed in  this,  take  a  roll  of  paper,  wall-paper  for 
instance,  unroll  a  portion  of  it,  and  insert  the 
paper  or  card-board,  which  is  to  be  flattened, 
in  such  a  manner  that  when  the  whole  is 
rolled  up  again,  the  card-board  will  be  bent 
the  opposite  way  to  which  it  was  originally 
rolled.    Roll  up  closely  and  evenly,  and  let 
it  remain  for  about  15  minutes.    If  this  be 
carefully  done,  the  card-board  will  be  flatten- 
ed without  danger  of  breaking,  and  free  from 
the  creases  inevitably  made  if  rolled  back- 
wards in  the  hands.     If  wall-paper  be  used, 
it  should  be  as  thick  as  can  be  obtained,  and 
the  larger  the  diameter  of  the  roll,  the  better. 
Collectors  of  engravings  will  find  it  worth  their 
while  to  obtain  a  straight  roller,  say  3  inches 
in  diameter,  and  5  or  6  yards  of  the  stout 
paper  sold  in  rolls  or  by  the  yard  under  the 
name  of  "pattern  paper.     The  cost  is  trifling, 
and  it  will  last  for  years. 

6398.  To  Remove  Water  Stains  from 
Engravings  or  Paper.    Fill  a  sufficiently 
large  clean  vessel  with  pure  water;  dip  the 
engraving  in,  waving  it  backward  and  for- 
ward until  wet  through.     Then  fasten  it  to  a 
flat  board  with  drawing  pins,  and  let  it  dry  in 
the  sunshine. 

6399.  To    Bleach    Engravings,    &c. 
Old  engravings,  wood  cuts,  and  all  Kinds  of 
printed  matter,  that  have  turned  yellow,  are 
completely  restored  by  being  immersed  in 
this  preparation  for  only  one  minute,  without 
the  least  injury  to  the  paper,  if  the  precaution 
is  taken  to  thoroughly  wash  the  article  in  wa- 
ter containing  a  little  hyposulphite  of  soda. 
Undyed  linen  and  cotton  goods  of  all  kinds, 
however  soiled  or  dirty,  are  rendered  snowy 
white  in  a  very  short  time  by  merely  placing 
them  in  the  liquid  mentioned.    For  the  pre- 
paration of  Javelle  water,  take  4  pounds  bi- 
carbonate of  soda,  and  1  pound  chloride  of 
lime ;  put  the  soda  into  a  kettle  over  the  fire, 
add  1  gallon  boiling  water,  let  it  boil  from  10 
to  15  minutes,  then  stir  in  the  chloride  of 
lime,  avoiding  lumps.     When  cold,  the  liquid 
can  be  kept  in  a  jug  ready  for  use.     (Sec  No. 
4787.) 

6400.  To  Clean  Soiled  Engravings. 
Lay  the  engraving,  face  downwards,  in  a  per- 
fectly clean  vessel,  sufficiently  largo  to  allow 
the  engraving  to  lay  flat ;  pour  clean  boiling 
water  upon  it,  and  allow  it  to  stand  until  the 
water  is  cold :  take  it  out  carefully  and  re- 


move as  much  of  the  moisture  as  possible 
with  clean  blotting  paper,  then  place  the  en- 
graving in  a  press  between  clean  white  paper. 
If  very  much  soiled,  a  repetition  of  the  opera- 
tion may  be  necessary. 

6401.  Fine  Black  Hair  Dye.     This  is 
composed   of   two    different   liquids,   No.   1, 
called  ihe-mordant,  which  is  employed  to  give 
permanency  to  the  dye,  and  No.  2,  which  is 
the  dye  itself.     Take  \  ounce  pyrogallic  acid, 
6  ounces  alcohol,  and  18  ounces  water;  shake 
them  well  together,  and  put  the  mixture  in  a 
glass-stoppered  bottle.     This  is  the  mordant, 
and  must  be  labeled  Solution  No.  1.    To  pre- 
pare the  dye,  take  1  ounce  nitrate  of  silver,  2 
ounces  a'mmonia,  and  8  ounces  distilled  wa- 
ter ;  dissolve  in  a  stoppered  bottle,  and  mark 
it  Solution  No.  2.     This  is  a  very  fine  article. 
(See  No.    1201.)      Directions  for  using   the 
above  dye  may  be  found  in  No.  1202. 

6402.  Fire  Kindlings.     In  France,   a 
very  convenient  and  economical  kindling  is 
made  by    dipping   corn-cobs  for  about  one 
minute  in  a  bath  composed  of  60  parts  melted 
resin  and  40  parts  tar.     They  are  next  spread 
out  to  dry  on  metallic  plates  heated  to  the 
temperature  of  boiling  water.    (See  No.  6205.) 

6403.  To  Convert  Sized  Paper  into 
Blotting  Paper.     Common  paper  may  be 
converted  into  blotting  paper  by  immersing  it 
for  a  few  seconds  in  hydrochloric  acid.    Some 
recommend  for  this  purpose  a  mixture  of  hy- 
drochloric acid  and  water ;  but  in  experiments 
that  have  been  made,  the  paper  was  immersed 
in   a  bath   of  the   ordinary  undiluted  acid, 
removing  it,  after  a  few  seconds,  to  a  vessel 
in  which  it  was  treated  to  several  changes  of 
water. 

6404.  Brother's  Soap  Liniment.    Take 
of  soap  (genuine  castile,  mottled  or  white), 
dry  and  in  No.  12  powder,  24  troy  ounces ; 
camphor,  12  troy  ounces;  oil  of  rosemary,  3 
fluid  ounces ;  water,  3  pints ;  strong  alcohol, 
10J  pints.    Mix  the  water  with  half  a  pint  of 
the  alcohol  in  a  capacious  vessel;   add  tho 
soap  and  apply  heat  until  solution  has  oc- 
curred ;  to  this  add  4  pints  of  alcohol.     In  tho 
remaining  6  pints  of  alcohol  dissolve  the  cam- 
phor and  oil;  to  this  add  the  solution  of  soap; 
mix.    Let  th«  impurities  (coloring  matter  of 
the  soap)  subside,  and  filter.  This  is  vastly  su- 
perior to  the  officinal  process.   (See  No.  4869.) 

6405.  Coating  for  Black-Boards.    In- 
corporate flour-emery  with  shellac  varnish, 
adding  sufficient  lampblack  to  give  the  re- 
quired color.    If  too  thick,  reduce  its  consis- 
tency with  alcohol.    This  varnish,  applied  to 
the  surface  of  wood  with  a  camel's  hair  var- 
nish brush,  produces  an  excellent  black  fac- 
ing,  and  may  also   be    used  for    preparing 
smaller  writing  tablets. 

6406.  Beautiful  Black  Ink.     Take  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  elder  berries,  bruise  and 
keep  them  for  3  days  in  an  earthen  vessel ; 
then  press  out  and  filter  the  juice.     To  124 
pints  of  the  filtered  juice,  add  i  oun.ee  each  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  and  crude  pyroligneous  acid. 
The  ink  that  results  has,  when  first  used,  a 
violet  color,  but  when  dry  is  an  indigo  blue- 
black.     In  writing,  it  flows  easily  from  the 
pen  without  gumming,  and  does  not  thicken 
as  soon  as  common  ink.     These  are  no  small 
advantages,  and  ought  to  recommend  it  for 
general  use.     (See  No.  2460.) 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


563 


6407.  To  Mount  Prints.     Make  a  thin 
size  of  fish  glue  or  isinglass.     Take  a  good 
sized  flat  varnish  brush,  wet  the  brush  with 
the  size  just  sufficiently  to  moisten  the  surface 
of  the  print  to  the  extent  of  the  width  of  the 
brush   and   the  whole  length  of  the  print. 
Commence  at  one  side  and  continue  in  this 
way  until  you  have  gone  over  the  w"hole  sur- 
face.    Draw  the  brush  with  a  light,  quick 
stroke,  as  closely  each  time  to  the  part  pre- 
viously wet  as  possible,  without  lapping  or 
going   twice  in  one   place.      "When  dry,  go 
over  it  again  in  the  same  way,  only  at  right 
angles  to  the  first  stroke.     Let  this  dry,  then 
proceed   to  mount  as    follows :     Stretch,   as 
tightly  as  it  will  bear,  to  a  frame  of  the  re- 
quired size,  a  piece  of  new,  smooth,  fine  mus- 
lin or  factory  cloth.     Kub  over  the  whole  sur- 
face of  this,  with  a  good  paste-brush,  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  well-cooked  paste,  made  of 
equal  parts  of  wheat-flour  and  starch,  to  thor- 
oughly wet  the  cloth.     Lay  the  print  onto  it, 
and,  covering  it  with  a  piece  of  clean'  paper, 
rub  it  down  both  back  and  front,  until  smooth 
and  fast.     "When  thoroughly  dry,  varnish  with 
white  copa*l  varnish. 

6408.  Varnish   to    Imitate    Ground 
Glass.     Dissolve  90  grains  sandarac  and  20 
grains  mastic  in  2  ounces  washed  methylated 
ether,  and  add,  in  small  quantities,  sufficient 
benzine  to  make  it  dry  with  a  suitable  grain, 
too  little  making  the  varnish  too  transparent, 
and  excess  making  it  crapy.    The  quantity  of 
benzine  required  depends  upon  its  quality, 
from  i  ounce  to  Ik  ounces  or  even  more;  but 
the  best  results  are  got  with  a  medium  qual- 
ity.     It   is   important  to    use  pure  washed 
ether,  free  from  spirit. 

6409.  Xylol,   the  New  Remedy  for 
Small-Pox.      Xylol,   xyleue,  or  ethyl-ben- 
zine, as  it  has  been  respectively  called,  is  one 
of   the   hydrocarbons  formed    from    coal-tar 
naphtha.      It  was  first    procured  by  Hugo 
Miiller,  but  its  nitro-compound  had  previously 
been  discovered  by  "Warren  De  la  Rue,  in 
1856.     Coal-tar  naphtha  is  submitted  to  frac- 
tional distillation  until  the  part  which  boils 
at  141°  is  separated  ;  this  is  submitted  to  the 
action  of  fuming  sulphuric   acid,  which  dis- 
solves the  xylol  and  leaves  the  other  hydro- 
carbons.     The   xylol  is  then  separated    by 
distillation  from  this  mixture.    Xylol  is  said 
to  have  been  used  by  Dr.  Zuelzer,  the  Senior 
Physician  at  the  Charit6  Hospital  at  Berlin, 
with  great  success  in  cases  of  small-pox.   The 
theory  of  its  action  would  appear  to  be  that 
xylol  is  taken  up  by  the  blood,  and  acts  as  a 
disinfectant.     Its  boiling  point  is  variously 
stated  at  139°  to  140°.     The   specimens  ex- 
amined   by  the  writer  generally  commenced 
to  boil  at  about  135°.     The  specific  gravity 
was  .866.     It  is  said  that  the  purity  of  xylol 
is  of  importance,  but  there  is  no  very  ready 
method  for  testing  its  purity.     It  should  be 
soluble  in  fuming  sulphuric  acid,  but  it  is  not 
soluble  in  the  ordinary  sulphuric  acid  of  the 
Pharmacopoeia.   It  has  a  faint  odor  something 
like   benzole,    and  an  aromatic  taste.      The 
doses  are  3  to  5  drops  for  children  ;  10  to  15 
drops  for  adults,  every  hour  to  every  3  hours. 
It  is  quite  harmless  in  reasonable  doses.     In 
Berlin  it  is  given  in  capsules.    As  *t  is  very 
insoluble,  the  best  method  of  giving  it  would 
be  in  an  emulsion  of  almonds.     (Tichborne.) 


6410.  To  Examine  Wells  or  Chim- 
neys.    In  case  the  bottom  of  a  well  needs 
examining,  hold  a  mirror  in  such  a  position  as 
to  reflect  the  sun's  rays  in  the  water,  so  that 
anything  floating  on  the  surface  can  then  be 
plainly  seen.    If  the  contents  of  the  well  are 
not  turbid,  the  smallest  object  on  the  bottom 
can  also  be  distinguished.    In  this  way  objects 
dropped  in  wells  of  60  feet  in  depth,  and 
which  contained  more  than  20  feet  of  water, 
have  been  traced  and  recovered.     "When  the 
objects  are  small,  or  a  minute  examination  of 
the  bottom  is  required,  an  opera-glass  may  be 
used.    If  the  top  of  the  well  is  not  exposed 
to  sunlight,  a  mirror  may  be  placed  outside, 
even  at  a  great  distance,  to  reflect  the  light 
over  its  top,  where  a  second  mirror  may  reflect 
it  downward.    Letting  a  lamp,  candle,  or  lan- 
tern down  gives  by  no  means  as  successful  a 
result,  as  the  light  is  very  weak  compared 
with  sunlight,  and  its  glare,  even  when  the 
eyes  are  shaded  from  its  direct  rays,  prevents 
distinct  vision.    The  method  of  employing 
two  mirrors,  one  outside  reflecting  the  solar 
rays  in  a  room,  and  a  second  small  mirror  in 
its  path  to  reflect  these  rays  into  a  dark  cav- 
ity, is  employed  by  physicians,  for  the  exam- 
ination of  cavities  of  the  body ;  for  instance, 
to  explore  the  tympanum  in  the  human  ear, 
the  throat,  etc.    To  examine  a  straight  chim- 
ney a  piece  of  looking-glass  is  to  be  held,  in- 
clined at  an  angle  of  45°,  in  the  hole  in  the 
chimney  wall,  into  which  the  stove-pipe  is  to 
go,  or  in  the  open  fireplace.     If  the  observer 
can  see  the  light  of  the  sky,  he  will  also  see 
the  whole  interior  of  the  chimney,  and  any 
obstruction  in  the  same.     As  most  chimneys 
are  straight,  the  top  will  be  clearly  visible. 

6411.  To  Clean  Furniture.     Mix  to- 
gether 1  pint  cold  drawn  linseed  oil,  1  pint 
best  vinegar,  and  i  pint  spirits  of  wine.     Dip 
a  soft  cloth  into  the  mixture  and  rub  over  the 
furniture,  and  then  wipe  thoroughly  with  a 
clean  soft  cloth.     Always  shake  the  mixture 
before  using.    We  do  not  know  any  article 
for  cleaning  furniture  equal  to  this.     (Trent.) 

6412.  To   Wash   Ladies'    Summer 
Suits.     Summer  suits  are  nearly  all  made  of 
white  or  buff  linen,  piqu6,  cambric  or  mus- 
lin, and  the  art  of  preserving  the  new  appear- 
ance after  washing  is  a  matter  of  the  greatest 
importance.     In  the  first  place,   the  water 
should  be  tepid,  the  soap  should  not  be  allow- 
ed to  touch  the  fabric ;  it  should  be  washed 
and  rinsed  quickly,  turned  upon  the  wrong 
side,  and  hung  in  the  shade  to  dry,  and  when 
starched    (in    thin-boiled,    but    not    boiling 
starch)  should  be  folded  in  sheets  or  towels, 
and  ironed  upon  the  wrong  side,  as  soon  as 
possible.     Linen  should  be  washed  in  water 
in  which  hay  or  a  quart- bag  of  bran  has  been 
boiled.    This  last  will  be  found  to  answer  for 
starch  as  well,  and    is  excellent    for   print 
dresses  of  all  kinds ;  a  handful  of  salt  is  also 
very  useful  to  set  the  colors  of  light  cambrics 
and  dotted  lawns;  and  a  little  beefs  gall  will 
not  only  set,  but  brighten,  yellow  and  purple 
tints,  and  has  a  good  effect  upon  green.     No 
soda,  or  other  washing  compound  should  on 
any  account  be  used. 

6413.  To   Dissolve    Wool    Out    of 
Mixed  Fabrics.     Boil  the  rags  in  a  mixture 
of  1  part  nitric  acid  and  10  water,  or  a  little 
stronger.    The  cotton  fibre,  after  drying,  can, 


564: 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS 


be  shaken  out  as  dust  in  a  willowing  machine, 
leaving  the  wool  behind  ready  for  dyeing. 
This  is  the  plan  adopted  in  England  and 
Germany  for  making  "  extract,"  and  is  used 
for  mixing  with  wool  in  many  manufactures. 
This  prepared  wool,  however,  will  be  found  to 
have  lost,  to  a  great  extent,  its  felting  prop- 
erty. 

6414.  Javelle    Water.    Many  persons 
keep  on  hand  a  supply  of  Javelle  water,  small 
quantities  of  which  are  sufficient  to  render 
the  most  soiled  linen  perfectly  white.    It  is 
prepared  by  taking  4  pounds  sal- sod  a  to    1 
pound  chloride  of  lime  in  1  gallon  water.    Put 
the  sal-soda  into  a  vessel  over  the  fire,  add  1 
gallon  boiling  water ;  let  it  boil  for  10  or  15 
minutes,  then  add  the  chloride  of  lime  by 
throwing  it,  free  from  lumps,  into  the  soda 
water.    When  cold,  pour  into  a  jug  or  large 
bottle  and  cork  tightly.     "Where  it  is  desirable 
to  have  a  larger  quantity,  the  following  mix- 
ture can  be  taken :  Stir  5  pounds  chloride  of 
lime  into  2  pails  warm  water;   dissolve  10 
pounds  glauber  salt  (sulphate  of  soda)  in  1 
pail  water ;  also  4  pounds  sal-soda  in  1  pail 
water.    The  contents  of  the  4  pails  can  be 
poured  together  and    kept  in   any    suitable 
tight  vessel.    Such  a  quantity  as  the  above 
ought  to  last  a  long  time,  as  a  dipperful  of  it 
would  bleach  a  large   quantity   of  linen  or 
other  goods.    The  materials  are  cheap,  and 
the  mixture  easily  made.    (See  No.  4787.) 

6415.  To  Detect  Blood-stains.     It  is 
said  by  Professor  Bloxam,  of  London,  that  a 
mixture  of  tincture  of  guaiacurn  and  a  solu- 
tion of  peroxide  of  hydrogen  in  ether  produces 
instantly,  with  blood  or  blood  stains,  a  beau- 
tiful tint  of  blue.    He  had  taken  a  single  lint 
fibre,  on  which  was  a  stain  of  blood  scarcely 
perceptible,  that  had  been  made  twenty  years 
before,  and  he  found  that  the  test  produced 
immediately  the    characteristic    blue    color, 
which  was  easily  detected  on  a  microscopic 
examination.     (See  No.  4393.) 

6416.  Artificial  Honey.    Put  10  pounds 
white  sugar  in  2  quarts  water,  and  gradually 
heat  it,  stirring  it  occasionally  until  brought 
to  the  boiling  point.     Then  remove  from  the 
fire  and  add  1  pound  real  honey.     "When  half 
cooled,  add  ^  pound  more  honey,  and,  when 
only  blood  warm,  add  another  ^  pound  honey. 
"When  nearly  cold,  add  10  drops  good  essence 
of  peppermint.    This  makes  16  pounds  in  all 
of  a  very  good  sweetening.     Its  flavor  can  be 
varied  to  the  liking  by  adding  more  or  less 
peppermint  essence.    (See  Nos.  1572,  ^-e.) 


6417.  Grape  Champagne.     Gather  the 
grapes  when  they  are  just  turning,  or  about 
half  ripe ;  pound  them  in  a  tub,  and  to  every 
quart  of  pounded  fruit  add  2  quarts  water. 
Let  it  stand  in  the  mash-tub  for  14  days,  then 
draw  it  off,  and  to  every  gallon  of  liquor  add 
3  pounds  loaf  sugar.     When  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved, cask  it ;  and,  after  it  has  done  work- 
ing, bring  it  down.     In  6  months  it  should  be 
bottled,  and  the  corks  tied  down  or  wired. 
This   produces  a  domestic  real  champagne, 
in  no  way  inferior  to  the  genuine  imported 
article. 

6418.  Imitation   White   Frontignac 
Wine.      Boil    18    pounds    white    powdered 
sugar,  with  6  gallons  water,  and  the  whites  of 
2  eggs  well  beaten ;  then  skim  it,  and  put  in 
i  peck  elder  flower  from  the  tree  that  bears 
white  berries  ;  do  not  keep  them  on  the  fire. 
"When  nearly  cold,  stir  it,  and  put  in  6  spoon- 
fuls lemon  juice,  4  or  5  of  yeast,  and  beat  well 
into  the   liquor;    stir  it  every  day;    put  6 
pounds  -best  raisins,  stoned,  into  the  cask,  and 
tun  the  wine.    Stop  it  close,  and  bottle  in  6 
months.     "When  well  kept,  this  wine  is  an 
excellent  imitation  of  Frontignac. 

6419.  Imitation  Red  Frontignac 
Wine.  This  is  made  in  the  same  manner, 
and  with  the  same  ingredients  as  the  white 
wine  (see  No.  6418),  except  that  dark  elder- 
flowers  are  used  instead  of  white. 

6420.  Cure  for  Fever  and  Ague  and 
Intermittent  Fever.     Take  40  grains  sul- 
phate of  quinine,  30  grains  powdered  liquor- 
ice, and  10  grains  gum  myrrh.    Make,  into  40 
pills.     Take  2  pills  every  "2  hours  for  the  first 
24  hours ;  2  pills  every  4  hours  for  the  second 
24  hours ;  and  the  remainder,  1  at  night  on 
going  to  bed,  and  1  in  the  morning,  first  thing. 
This  performs  an  effectual  cure  if  the  direc- 
tions are  implicitly  followed.     (Trent.} 

6421.  To  Remove  Tar  or  Pitch  from 
the  Skin.     Mix  together  pulverized  extract 
of  liquorice,  and  oil  of  aniseed  to  the  consist- 
ency of  thick  cream ;  rub  it  on  the  part  thor- 
oughly with  the  hand,  then  wash  off  with  soap 
and  warm  soft  water. 

6422.  To    Remove   Tar,    &c.,  from 
Glass.     It  is  not  easy  to  remove  tar,  pitch, 
Venice  turpentine,  and  other  sticky  substances 
from  the  graduated  glasses  used  for  measuring 
them.     A  mixture  formed  of  the  same  ingre- 
dients as  in  the  last  receipt,  combines  with 
the  sticky  matter  so  completely  as  to  allow  of 
the  whole  being  rubbed  off  dry  and  clean  with 
a  piece  of  cotton. 


INDEX. 


IN  the  compilation  of  this  Index,  especial  pains  have  been  taken  to  economize  space  as  ranch  as  possible, 
without  impairing  its  usefulness  for  ready  reference.  "With  this  end  in  view,  classification  of  items  has  been 
largely  resorted  to ;  so  that,  in  many  cases,  a  single  entry  will  embrace  several  receipts,  varying  in  number 
from  two  or  three  to  twenty  or  more. 

Some  discretion  is,  therefore,  advisable  in  searching  the  Index  for  any  desired  receipt.  If,  for  instance, 
it  is  required  to  find  out  "  How  to  put  out  a  fire  in  a  Chimney,"  it  will  naturally  be  found  under  "Chimney," 
the  object  to  be  operated  upon.  Again:  in  searching  for  some  preparation  of  a  compound  body,  "Solution 
of  Citrate  of  Magnesia,"  for  instance,  it  would  be  found  under  "Citrate  of  Magnesia,"  the  principal  ingredi- 
ent, and  not  under  "  Magnesia,"  which,  although  its  base,  is  an  entirely  different  substance. 

Proprietary  preparations  and  processes  will  be  found  only  under  the  name  of  the  inventors;  thus, 
"Bnimlreth's  Pills"  are  indexed  under  "Brandreth,"  and  not  under  the  head  of  "Pills;"  this  latter  heading 
including  only  such  as  have  no  such  distinctive  designation.  This  is  done  to  avoid  needless  repetition,  and 
thereby  save  space. 


ABE— AC  I 

Abernethy's  Pills 5183 

Absinthe,  to  make 797,  &c. 

Absolute  Alcohol,  to  obtain...  1441 
6368. 

Absorbents 5678,  5684 

Abstinence  as  a  cure  for  Dis- 
ease   5894 

Acacia-Flower  Water,  to  distill  1072 

Acetates  3889 

Acetate  of  Alumina 4258 

Acetate  of  Ammonia 4218 

Acetate  of  Ammonia,  Solution 

of 5143 

Acetate  of  Amyl 4302 

Acetate  of  Baryta 4232 

Acetate  of  Cobalt 4253 

Acetate  of  Copper 4088 

Acetate  of  Ethyl 4291,  4290 

Acetate  of  Iron  4159 

Acetate  of  Lead 4101 

Acetate  of  Lead,  Lotion  of 4824 

Acetate  of  Lead,  Solution  of.  .4775 

Acetate  of  Morphia 4267 

Acetate  of  Morphia,  Solution  of  4770 

Acetate  of  Potassa 4180 

Acetate  of  Soda 4206 

Acetic  Acid 3889 

Acetic  Acid,  Anhydrous 3894 

Acetic  Acid,  Camphorated 3895 

Acetic  Acid,  Commercial 3889 

Acetic  Acid,  Dilute 3890 

Acetic  Acid,  Glacial  or  Hydra- 
ted  3891 

Acetic  Acid,  Pure 3893 

Acetic  Acid,  Strong, frotn  Vine- 
gar   3896 

Acetic  Acid,  Table  of  Percent- 
ages  of 3897 

Acetic  Acid,  Tests  for  the  Pu- 

-  rity  of 3899 

Acetic    Acid,    Tests    for    the 

Strength   of 72,  &c. 

Acetic  Acid,  to  concentrate.. 3898 
Acetic  Acid,  "Weight  of,  to  find    70 

Acetic  Ether 4201,  &c. 

Acetic  Perfumes 1088 

Acetimetry 69,  &c. 

Aceto-Carbolic  Solution 4799 

Acetous  Fermentation 16,  867 

Acid,  Free,  Test  for 4394 

Acid  Poisons,  Antidotes  for... 5897 
5911. 

Acid  Preparations  of  Tin 107 

Acid  Stains,    to  remove  from 

Garments,  «tc 366,  &c. 

Acidiineters 82 

Acidimetry 78,  &c. 

Acidity  in  Beer,  to  correct 8(i8 

Acidity  in  Wine,  to  remedy . . .  753 


ACI — ALC 

Acidity  in  "Wine,  to  test 760 

Acids,'see  NAME  OF  ACID. 

Acids,  Cement  to  resist 2232 

Acids,  Effect  of,  on  Colors 361 

Acids,  General      Classification 

of 3853,  &c. 

Acids,  Precautions  in  Testing.  71 
Acids,  Table  of  Equivalents  of.  81 
Acids,  to  test  the  Strength  of. .  79 
Aconite  Leaves,  Fluid  Extract 

of 4574 

Aconite  Leaves,  Tincture  of.  .4481 
Aconite  Root,  Fluid  Extract  of.  4575 

Aconite  Hoot,  Tincture  of 4482 

Aconitino  Ointment 4984 

Adelaide-Purple   Dye  for  Cot- 
tons  171,  &c. 

Adhesive  for  Leather  Belts 6232 

Adhesive  ResinPlaster 5046 

Adulterations,      see      ARTICLE 

ADULTERATED. 

2Eolian  Harps,  to  construct 6200 

Aerated  Lemonade 906 

Aerated  "Waters 4430,  &c. 

Age,   to    impart    apparent,    to 

Beer 875 

Ague,  Fever  and,  Remedies  for  5579 

&c.,  6420. 

Air,  see  ATMOSI>HKHE. 
Aitkin's    Compound  Syrup    of 

Iron 4648 

Aix-la-Chapello  Water 4463 

Ajutage  of  Fountains 6233 

Alabaster 2020 


Alabaster 
Alabaster 
Alabaster 
Alabaster 


Alabaster 


on . 


Alabaster 
Alabaster 
Alabaster 
Alabaster 


Cement  for.  ..2160,  2177 

Imitation 2020 

to  cast 2031 

to  clean 2034 

to  dress  with  wax.  .2023 
to  engrave    or  etch 

2021 

to  harden 2022,  2025 

to  polish 2030 

to  render  durable . . .  2024 


to  stain 2029 

Albumen 4346 

Albumen,  Tests  for 4348 

Albumenized  Paper  for  Photo- 
graphy  3132,  3178 

Albuminous  Size 1953 

Alcohol 1435,  &c. 

Alcohol,  Absolute 1441,  6368 

Alcohol,  Amylio 1440 

Alcohol,  Dilute,   officinal 1437 

Alcohol,  Officinal 1438 

Alcohol,  Proof 1436 

A  luohol.  Rules  for  the  treatment 

of 144S,  &c. 

Alcohol,  Stronger,  officinal..,.  1439 


ALC — ALK 

Alcohol.  Tables  of  Percentage 

of 55,  &c. 

Alcohol,  Table  comparing  the 

Weight  and  Volume  of 57 

Alcohol,  to  ascertain  the  Costof  1450 

Alcohol,  to  deodorize 1446 

Alcohol,  to  dilute 1451 

Alcohol,  to  filter 144T 

Alcohol,  to  find  the  Percentage 

of 1452 

Alcohol,  to  free  from  Fusel  Oil.  1445 
Alcohol,  to  increase  theStrength 

of 1443 

Alcohol,  to  preserve  with 1632 

Alcohol,  to  raise  the  proof  of. .  1454 

1459,  &c. 

Alcohol,  to  raise  low-proof 1463 

Alcohol,  to  reduce  low-proof. . .  1462 
Alcohol,  to  reduce  the  proof  of  1453 

1455,  &c. 

Alcohol,  to  reduce  the  Strength  60" 
Alcohol,  to  test  the  Puritv  ot. . .  1444 
Alcohol,  to  test  theStrength  of  1448 
Alcohol  Vinegar,  to  improve . . .  1743 

Alcohol  Vinegar,  to  make 1741 

Alcoholate  of  Roses 1017 

Alcoholic  Extracts,  to  prepare.     44 

Alcoholic  Fermentation 16 

Alcoholic  Solution 29 

Alcoholized  Sulphuric  Acid... 4741 
Alcohohneters,  see  HYDROME- 

TEKS  and  AREOMETERS. 

Alcoholmetry 53,  &o. 

Aldehyd-ammouia 4307 

Aldehyde 2557,  4308 

Ale,  Bitter  Balls  for 870 

Ale,  Fining  for 871 

Ale,  to  brew 856,  &c. 

Ale,  to  clarify 873 

Ale,  to  fine 747 

Alkali-Blue  Dye 2606 

Alknli,  Caustic,  to  test 584,  &c. 

Alkali  Stains,  to  remove  from 

Garments,  &c 398 

Alkali  Stiffening  for  Hats 336 

Alkalies 3973,  &c. 

Alkalies,  Effect  of,  on  Colors..  361 
Alkalies,  Table  of  Equivalents 

of 80 

Alkalies,  to  find  the  Strength  of    84 

Alkalimeters 82 

Alkalimetry 83 

Alkaline  Metals,  Amalgams  of  3546 
Alkaline  Poisons,  Antidotes  for  5901 

Alkaline  Svrup  of  Rhubarb 4675 

Alkaline  Waters,  Aerated 4432 

Alkaloids 3996.  &c. 

Alkaloids,  Tests  to  distinguish  4023 
Alkaloids,  to  obtain 4022 


566      ALK— AMA 

Alkanet-Red  Color 2630 

AUcock's  Porous  Plaster 5275 

Allen's  Nerve  and  Bone  Liui- 

ment 5224 

Allison's  Tobacco    Ointment.. 5290 

Allspice,  Essence  of 952 

Allspice,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Allspice,  Fluid  Extract  of 4579 

Alloxan 4224 

Alloy,  Expansion 3454 

Alloy,  Fluid 3455 

Alloy  of  the  Government  Stan- 
dard Measures 3434 

Alloys 3347,  &c. 

Allovs  for  Dentists' Moulds  3435  &c. 
Alloys,  French,  for  Forks,  &C..3427 

Alloys,  Fusible 3456 

Alloys  of  Aluminum 3429 

Alloys  of  Copper 3348,  3437 

Alloys  of  Gold S398,  &c. 

Alloys  of  Lead 3419,  3426 

Alloys  of  Quicksilver,  SEE  AMAL- 
GAMS. 

Alloys  of  Silver 3404,  <tc. 

Alloys  of  Steel 3423 

Alloys  of  Tin 3421,  3426 

Alloys  of  Tin  and  Lead,  melting 

heat   of 3459 

Alloys  of  Zinc 3424 

Alloys,  Test  for  Copper  in 3241 

Alloys,  to  separate  Copper  from324fi 

Almond  and  Honey  Paste 1134 

Almond  Extract 1033 

Almond  Paste 1123 

Almond  Paste,  Bitter 1 124 

Almond  Soap 557,  592 

Almond  Water,  Bitter 4755 

Almonds,  Bitter,  Essential  Oil 

of 1465 

Almonds,  Bitter,  Test  for  Essen- 
tial Oil  of 1479 

Almonds,  Emulsion  of. ..1140,  1155 

Almonds,  Essence  of. 943 

Almonds,  Oil  of,  non-poisonous  1512 

Aloes  and  Assafatida  Pills 4901 

Aloes  and  Myrrh  Pills 4902 

Aloes  and  Myrrh,  Tincture  of.  4538 

Aloes,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Aloes  Pills 4900 

Aloes,  Tincture  of 4537 

Alpaca  Dresses,  to  wash 485 

Alteratives 5161,  &c. 

Alterative,  Dandelion 5164 

Alterative  Pills 4906,  5162,  5166 

Alterative,  Eheumatic 5535 

Alterative  Syrup 5163 

Alum 4256 

Alum,  Ammonio-ferric 4738 

Alum,  Lotion  of,  Com  pound..  .4821 

Alnm  Plumb 114 

Alum  Poultice 5033 

Alum,  Roche 4256 

Alnm,  Solution  of,  Compound. 4772 

Alum,  to  test 115 

Alumina,  Acetate  of 4258 

Alumina,  Hydrate  of 4257 

Alumina,  Sulphate  of 4259 

Aluminized  Charcoal 1730 

Aluminum 3330 

Aluminum,  Alloys  of 3429 

Aluminum,  Solder  for 3520,  3522 

Aluminum,  to  electroplate  with.3749 

Aluminum,  to  frost -....3332 

Aluminum,  to  polish 3331 

Aluminum,  to  solder 3521 

Amalgams 3532,  &c. 

Amalgam,    Copper 3543 

Amalgam  for  Anatomical  Pre- 
parations  ;\:AI 

Amalgam  for  Dentists 3549,  &c. 

Amalgam  for  Electrical    Ma- 
chines   3539,  &c. 

Amalgam  for  Silvering  MirrorsSfA' 

3538,  3545 

Amalgam  for  Varnishing  Plas- 
ter Casts 3548 

Amalgam,  Gold 3533 

Amalgam,  Gold,  to  gild  with.. 3534 

Amalgam,  Silver 3535 

Amalgam,  Tin 3542 

Amalgam,  Tin  and  Cadmium.  .3544 

Amalgam,  Varnishers' 2955 

Amalgam,  Zinc 3339 


AMA — ANI 

Amalgamating  Fluid 3555 

Amande,  Pate  do,  an  MM 1134 

Amandine,  Colored 1120 

Amandine,  Glycerine 11 19 

Amandine,  to  make 1117 

Amandine,  to  use 1118 

Amazon  Bitters 817 

Amber,  Cement  forv* 2176 

Amber  Oil -Tarnishes 2879,  &c. 

Amber  Spirit -Varnish 2930 

Amber,  to  dissolve 2929 

Ambergris  and  Musk,  Oil  of. .  .1237 

Ambergris,  Essence  of 959,  D63 

Ambergris,  Oil  of 1227,  1240 

Ambergris,  Tincture  of. . .  963,.  1024 

Ambergris,  to  test 4391 

Amber,  Eau  Royale  do 994 

Ambretto,  Eau  or  Esprit  do 995 

Ambrette,  Essence  of. 968 

Ambrosia  Syrup 1422 

American  Blight  on  Trees,  to 

remedy 1844 

American  "Weights  and  Mea- 
sures   59155.  &e. 

Amethyst,  Imitation 2356,  2441 

Amethyst  Foil 2456 

Amianthus 4371 

Ammonia 3981,  4067 

Ammonia,  Acetate  of 4218 

Ammonia,  Antiseptic  solution 

of 1654 

Ammonia,  Aromatic  Spirit  of.  1094 
Ammonia,  Carbonates  of.  .4219,  &c. 

Ammonia,  Cyanate    of 4323 

Ammonia,  Hydrosulphatc  of.  .1203 
Ammonia,  Hydrosulphuret  of.  .1203 

Ammonia,  Muriate  of 4222 

Ammonia  Poison,  Antidote  for  .5901 

Ammonia,  Purpuratc  of 4224 

Ammonia,  Sulphate  of 4223 

Ammonia,  Sulphuretted  Hydro- 
sulphate  of ". 5353 

Ammonia,  to  obtain 3982 

Ammoniacal  Eau  do  Lavandc.1097 
Ammoniacal  Lavender  Water.  1098 
Ammoniacal  Ointment. .  .4944,  5477 
Ammoniated  Cologne  Water..  1096 

Ammoniated  Perfumes 1095 

Ammoniated  Tinctures 35 

Ammonio-chloride  of  Mercury  .4140 

Ammonio-chloride  of  Platinum  3334 

4086 

Ammonio-chloride  of  Zinc 4110 

Ammonio-citrate  of  Iron 4162 

Ammonio-ferric  Alum 4738 

Ammonio-nitratc  of  Silver,  So- 
lution of 4773 

Ammonio  -  pyrophosphatc      of 

Iron 4737 

Ammonio-sulphatc  of  Copper.  .4090 
Ammonio-sulphate  of  Copper, 

Solution  of 4790 

Ammonium,  Bromide  of 4227 

Ammonium,  Hydrosulphuret  of  4228 

Ammonium,  Iodide  of. 4225 

Ammonium,  Sulphocyanide  of.  422fi 

Ammonium,  Sulphurct  of 422S 

Ammoniuret  of  Gold 3725 

Amyl 4301 

Amyl,  Acetate  of 430' 

Amyl,  Valerianatc  of 430S 

Amylic  Alcohol 1440 

Anaesthetics 4271 

Anaesthetic,  Dental 5433 

Anatomical  Preparations,  Am- 
algam for 3547 

Anatomical  Preparations,  Solu- 
tions for 1651,  &c. 

Anderson's  Pills 5326 

Anderson's  Scott's  Pills 5180 

Angelica  Water,  to  distill  1071, 1073 

Angelot's  Gum  Lotion 5461 

Angelot's  Pastils  for  the  Breath  5462 

Anglo-German  Gilding 3587 

Angostura  Bitters 816 

Aniline  Black  Varnish 2943 

Aniline  Colors 2552,  &c. 

Aniline  Colors,  effects  of  impure 

Alcohol  on 2559 

Aniline  Colors,  soluble  in  water  2558 

Aniline  Colors,  to  remove 2565 

Aniline  Colors,  to  remove  Sugar 
from 2562 


ANI— ANT 

Aniline  Colors,  to  test  for  Sugar 

in 2561 

Aniline  Colors,  to  test  the  qual- 
ity of 2560 

Aniline,    difficulty   in   Dyeing 

Cotton   with 2570 

Aniline  Dyes 332,  &c.,  2552,  &c. 

Aniline  Dyes,    Directions    for 

using 2563 

Aniline  Dyes  for  Ivory 1993 

Aniline  Dyes,  Mordants  for 2567 

Aniline  Dyes,  to  distinguish. .  .25(ii 

Anilino  Inks 2497 

Aniline  Marking  Ink 2511 

Aniline  Stains,  to  remove  from 

the  Hands 2566 

Aniline  Varnishes,  Transparent  2942 
Animal  Charcoal,  to  prepare.  .1752 

Animal  Fats 1518,  &c. 

Animal  Fats,  Rancid,  to  restore  1489 
Animal  Fats,  to  preserve.  1491, 1515 

Animal  Fats,  to  purify 1517 

Animal  Fibre,  to  detect  in  Mix- 
ed Fabrics 294 

Animal  Substances,  to  silver. .  .3626 
Animals,    Antiseptic  for    pre- 
serving   1668 

Animals,  Noxious,  to  destroy..  1900 
Animals,  Preparation  for  stuff- 
ing  1667 

Animals,  Solutions  to  preserve.  1651 
Animals,  to  banish  Fleas  from.  1913 

Animals,  to  embalm 1666 

Anise,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Anise,  Green,  to  distill...  1071,  1073 

Aniseed  Cordial 780 

Anisette   Cordial 770,  778,  802 

Ankle,  Sprained,  treatment  of  5495 

Annealing 2 

Annotto  Dye  for  Cottons 1 5S) 

A  nnotto,  Purified 2621 

Annotto,  Solution  of. 2622 

Annotto,  to  prepare 95 

Anode  of  a  Battery : . . .  3667 

Anodynes 5X30 

Anodyne  Balsam 5098,  520!) 

Anodyne  Cigars 5133 

Anodyne  Fomentation 5156 

Anodyne,  Hoffmann's 4749 

Anodyne  Lotion 4817,  4819 

Anddyne  Necklaces 5259 

Anodyne  Ointment 4983 

Anodyne  Plaster 5048 

Anodyne  Powder 5131 

Anodyne  Substitute  for  Opium.  5132 

Antacids 5678,  5684 

Antacid  Tincture 5444 

Anthelmintics 5641 

Anti-attrition  Composition 1547 

Anti-bilious  Pills 5174,  4907 

Anti-catarrh  Elixir 5447 

Anti-chill  Pills 4908 

Antichlor 1719 

Antidotes  for  Poisons 5895,  &c. 

Anti-ferments 762,  &c. 

Anti-friction  Compositions  1539.  &c. 

Antiinonoid 3530 

Antimony 31339 

Antimony,  Antidotes  for 5900 

Antimony,  Butter  of 4131 

Antimony,  Chloride  of. 4131 

Antimony,  Commercial 3343 

Antimony,  Ethiops  of 4126 

Antimony,  Flowers  of 4127 

Antimony,  Fiihn  mating 2131 

Antimony,  Glass  of 2370 

Antimont,  Liver  of 4128 

Antimony,  Oxide  of 4130 

Antimony,  Oxysulphuret  of. . .  .5467 
Antimony,  Potassio-tartrate  of  4 129 
Antimony,  Sulphuret  of.  .4132,  &c. 

Antimony,  Tests  for 3340,  3341 

Antimony,  Metallic,  to  obtain. 3342 

Antipsoric  Lotion 4850 

Antique  Bronze 3788 

Antiscorbutic  Dentifrice 1306 

Antiseptic  for  preserving  Birds, 

&c 1668 

Antiseptic  Solutions 1651,  &c. 

Antispasmodics 5568 

Ants,  Black,  to  destroy 1848 

Ants,  Black,  to  disperse 1909 

Ants,  Red,  to  exterminate 1910 


ANT — ARO 


ARO — AZU 


BAB — BAR 


567 


Anfs,  to  keep  from  Trees 1847 

Aperient  Electuary 5153 

Aperient  Elixir 5446 

Aperient  Pills 4909 

Aperient  Solution 5272 

Aphides  on  Plants,  to  destroy.  1845 

Apoplexy,  Treatment  of 5763 

Apothecaries'  Graduated  Mea- 
sures  5957 

Apothecaries  Measure 5956 

Apothecaries     Measure     com- 
pared    with      Apothecaries 

Weight 5962 

Apothecaries     Measure     com- 
pared     with       Avoirdupois 

Weight 5960 

Apothecaries     Measure     com- 
pared with  Imperial 5958 

Apothecaries     Measure     com- 
pared with  Metrical 5959 

Apothecaries     Measure     com- 
pared with  Troy  Weight 5961 

Apothecaries   Measure,   Impe- 
rial  6032 

Apothecaries   Measure,   Impe- 
rial, in  Litres 6033 

Apothecaries  Measure,   Impe- 
rial, in  TJ.  States  Measure 6039 

Apothecaries  Weight 5951 

Apothecaries  Weight  compared 

with  Apothecaries  Measure.  5954 
Apothecaries  Weight  compared 

with  Avoirdupois 5952 

Apothecaries  Weight  compared 

with  Metrical 5955 

Apothecaries  Weight  compared 

with  Troy 5953 

Apple  and  Mulberry  Wine 728 

Apple  Essence,  Artificial 1054 

Apple,  Essential  Oil  of 1469 

Apple  Syrup 1412 

Apple  Wine 728 

Apples,  to  can 1636 

Apples,  to  dry 1640 

Apples,  to  keep  fresh 1641 

Apples,  to  press,  for  Cider 833 

Apricot  Essence,  Artificial 1047 

Apricot   Wine .• 728 

Aqua  Fortis 3872 

Aqua  Marine,  Imitation.  .2359, 2442 

Aqua  Kegia 3725,  3879 

Aquaria,   Artificial  Sea- Water 

for 6198 

Aquaria,  Cement  for 2163,  &c. 

Aqueous  Extracts,  to  prepare.    44 

Aqueous   Fusion 19 

Aqueous  Solution 29 

Architects'  Plans,  to  tint 2646 

Area  of  various  Figures,  to  find  5987 

Areca-Nut  C  harcoal 1 302 

Areca-Nut  Tooth  Paste 1307 

Areca-Nut  Tooth  Powder 1301 

Areometers,  various. .  .64,  6155,  <fec. 
Ares,   compared   with    Square 

Measure 6026 

Argentine  Flowers 4127 

Argol 4197 

Arkansas  Oil  Stones,  see  HONES. 

Armenian  Cement 2152 

Arnica,  Extract  of 4751 

Arnica  Flowers,  Liniment  of.  .4864 

Arnica  Flowers,  Lotion  of 4837 

Arnica  Flowers.  Tincture  of.  .4509 

Arnica  Fomentation 5159 

Arnica,  Tincture  of 4483 

Arnold's  Writing  Fluid 2485 

Aroma  of  Cordials 812 

Aromatic  Acid  Tincture 4731 

Aromatic;  Bitters 826 

Aromatic  Blackberry  Syrup..  .4685 

Aromatic  Candles ." 1351 

Aromatic  Elixir 4727 

Aromatic  Ginger  Wine 738 

Aromatic  Mixture  of  Iron  . . .  .4712 
Aromatic  Spirit  of  Ammonia.  1094 

Aromatic  Spirits,  "Distilled 941 

Aromatic  Sulphuric  Acid 4740 

Aromatic  Tonic  Mixture 5124 

Aromatic  Vinegar 1083,  &c. 

Aromatic  Waters.  Distilled  .  ..1070 
Aromatic  Waters  from  EssenceslOSl 
Aromatic  Waters  from  Essen- 
tial Oils 1080 


Aromatic  Wine 5348 

Aromatics,  proportions  of,  for 

Perfumed  Waters 1071 

Arrack 1435 

Arrack,  Imitation 700,  &c. 

Arrack -Punch  Syrup 1377 

Arrow-root,  to  test 4382 

Arseniates 3938 

Arsenic 3935 

Arsenic  Acid 3938 

Arsenic  Acid,  Testa  for 3940 

Arsenic  Acid,  to  obtain 3939 

Arsenic  and  Mercury  Solution. 4777 

Arsenic,  Antidotes  for 5898 

Arsenic,  Self-detecting ..3936 

Arsenic,  Tersulphuret  of 4356 

Arsenic,  Tests  for 3937 

Arsenic,  to  detect,  in  Colored 

Paper .4383 

Arsenical  Soap 1669,  &c. 

Arsenical  Solution 5298,  4804 

Arsenious  Acid,  see  ARSENIC. 

Arsenitea 3935 

Arsenite  of  Copper 2711 

Arsenite  of  Potassa,  Solution  of  4804 
Artificial,  see  ARTICLE  IMITATED. 

Artus'  Vinegar  Process 1742 

Asbestos  4371 

Asbestos,  Platinated 3335 

Aseptin  for  Preserving  Meat.  .1616 
A  shweU's  Injection  for  Obstruct- 
ed Menstruation 5717 

Asiatic  Black  Ink 2466 

Asphalt  for  Walks 6354 

Assafcetida  and  Aloes  Pills 4901 

Assafostida  Pills 4903 

Assafoetida,    Syrup    of.    Com- 
pound   4686 

Assafoetida,  Tincture  of 4480 

Assay  of  Gold 3187,  3190,  &c. 

Assay  of  Silver 3187,  3206,  &c. 

Assa'yers'  Gold  Weights 5948 

Assayers'  Silver  Weights 5949 

Asses'  Milk,  Imitation 6289 

Asthma 5593 

Asthma,  to  alleviate 5594 

Asthma,  Treatment  of 5624 

Astringents 5555 

Astringent  for  Leech  Bites. . .  .5567 

Astringent  Lotion 4817,  4820 

Astringent  Ointment 4979 

Atkinson's     Infant     Preserva- 
tive   5352 

Atlee's  Cough  Mixture 5(510 

Atlee's  Scarlet-fever  Remedy.. 5755 
Atlee's  Whooping-Cough  Cure. 5634 

Atler's  Nipple  Wash 5393 

Atmosphere 4072 

Atmosphere,  Pressure  of  the.. 61 21 
Atmosphere,  to  test  the  Purity 

of  the 1711,  4073 

Atropine  Paper 5807 

Attar  of  Roses 975 

Aureolin  Yellow 2708 

Auric  Chloride 4075 

Aurine  Aniline  Dye 2595 

Aurous  Chloride 4075 

Austrian  Cholera  Specific 5670 

Austrian  Money 6075 

Austrian  Weights   and   Mea- 
sures  6076,  &c. 

Autographic  Ink 2551 

Aventurme,  Imitation 2443 

Avoirdupois  Weight 5935 

Avoirdupois  Weight  compared 

with  Apothecaries  Measure ..  5937 
Avoirdupois  Weight  compared 

with  Apothecaries  Weight.  .5938 
Avoirdupois  Weight  compared 

with   Troy. 5936 

Avoirdupois  Weight  in  Metri- 
cal Weight 5941 

Avoirdupois  Weight,  Decimal 

Equivalents  of 5939 

Axle  Grease 1541,  1545 

Ayer's  Cherry  Pectoral 5267 

Ayer's  Sarsaparilla 5328 

Ayer's  Wild-Cherry  Expector- 
ant   5266 

Azote,  see  NITHOOEN. 

Azure  Blue,  or  Smalts 2687 

Azure  Paste  for  the  Skin 1114 


Babbitt's  Metal a348,  3445 

Babington's    Antiseptic    Solu- 
tion   1655 

Bacher's  Tonic  Pills 5216 

Back,  Sprained,  Treatment  of.  .5496 

Back,  Weak,  Remedy  for 5543 

Baden  Water,  Aerated 4437 

Badigeon 2158 

Bagneres  de  Lnclion  Water... 4464 

Bailey's  Itch  Ointment 5243 

Baillie's  Pills 5197 

Bain  Marie 5 

Bait  to  catch  Rats,  <tc 1895 

Bakers'  Itch,  Remedy  for 5484 

Bakers'  Itch,  Ointment  for 4957 

Bakers'  Yeast 1811,  &c. 

Baking  Powder 1817,  &c. 

Balard's     Waterproofing     for 

Clothing 1559 

Balaruc  Water 4461 

Baldness,  French  Remedy  for.  .1285 

Baldness,  Oil  for 1251 

Baldness,  Pomade  for 1279,  &c. 

Baldness,  Washes  for. 1177,  &c. 

Baldwin's  Phosphorus 41334 

Balloons,  Buoyant  Power  of 4045 

Balloons,  Hydrogen  Gas  for 4044 

Balloons,  to  mend G392 

Balloons,  Varnish  for 2948 

Balls,  Bitter,  for  Beer 870 

Balls,  Scouring 349.  374 

Balls,  Soap 574,  &c. 

Balm,  Chilblain 5839 

Balm  of  Gilead,  Decoction  of.  .4534 

Balm  of  Gilead.  Factitious 51 11 

Balm  of  Gilead,  Lotion  of 4838 

Balm  of  Gilead,  Tincture  of . .  .4535 

Balm  of  Rakasiri 5115 

Balm  of  the  Innocents 5419 

Balm  of  Thousand  Flowers 1327 

Balm,  Spirit  of,  Compound 988' 

Balm  Tea 5]  35 

Balm  Water,  to  distill 1071,  1073 

Balsams 5090,  &c. 

Balsam,  Anodyne 5098,  5209 

Balsam  Apple,  Oil  of 4752 

Balsam,  Canada 5100 

Balsam,  Canada,  Factitious 5101 

Balsam  for  Freckles 1122 

Balsam,  Friar's 5091 

Balsam,  Glycerine 5095 

Balsam,  Hoffman's  Life 5112 

Balsam,  Locatelle's 5306 

Balsam,  Nervine 5113,  5340 

Balsam  of  Copaiba,  Factitious  5104 
Balsam  of  Copaiba,  Reduced. .  5106 
Balsam  of  Copaiba,  Syrup  of. . .  4667 
Balsam  of  Copaiba,  Test  for... 5107 

Balsam,  Cough 5442 

Balsam  of  Honey. .  .1121,  5093,  5231 

Balsam  of  Horehound 5092,  53(i7 

Balsam  of  Malta 5116 

Balsam  of  Peni,  Factitious 5108 

Balsam  of  Pent  Liniment 5400 

Balsam  of  Peru,  Oil  of 1241 

Balsam  of  Peru  Pomade 1262 

Balsam  of  Peru,  Reduced 5109 

Balsam  of  Peru,  Test  for 51 10 

Balsam  of  Peru,  Tincture  of. . .  1020 

Balsam  of  Rnkasiri 51 15 

Balsam  of  Sulphur 5114 

Balsam  of  Tolu 5102 

Balsam  of  Tolu,  Test  for 5103 

Balsam  of  Tolu,  Tincture  of. . .  1022 
Balsam  of  Turpentine 5099 


Balsam 
Balsam 
Balsam 
Balsam 
Balsam 
Balsam 


Pectoral 50E7 

Persian 5419 

Pulmonary 5601 

Riga 5094 


Thibault's 5305 

Turlington's 5304 

Universal  Wound 5096 

Banana  Syrup 1413 

Bancroft's  Process  for  Refining 

Oils 1495 

Bandoline,  Rose 1195 

Bank-Note  Cement 2308 

Bank  of  England  Notes,  to  tell 

Genuine 6396 

Banks,  to  cover,  with  Grass. . .  1886 

Barber's  Itch,  Remedy  for 5487 

Barber's  Shampoo  Mixture 1188 

Barclay's  Antibilious  Pills 5174 


568     BAK  —  BED  BED  —  BEN 

Bareges  "Water  ................  4464    Beddoe's  Pills  .................  5244 

BariUa  ........................  4208    Beds,  Garden,  to  Protect,  from 


Barium,  Chloride  of 4234 

Barium,  Oxides  of 4235 


BER  —  BLA 

Berberino  .....................  4016 

Bergamot,  Essence  of  .........  969 


Snails 1862  i  Bergamot,  Oil  of 1227 

Bed-Sores,  Lotion  for 5820  ,  Bergamot,  OU  of,  Test  for 1480 

999 


Barium,  Sulphuret  of 4237  j  Bed-Sores,  to  relieve 5821    Bergamotte,  Esprit  de 

Bark,  Essential  Oil  of 46  I  Bed-Sores,  Treatment  of 5503  I  Berlandt's  Mode  of  Bleaching 

Barlev  Water 4767  I  Bed-Tick,  to  clean 468  |     Oils : 

Barm  for  Making  Yeast 1808   Beechwood  Mahogany 2848  ;  Berlin  Water-Proof  Cloth 1560 

Barometer,  Chemical 6184   Beef  and  Iron,  Wine  of 4722    Bernard   and  Delarue's  Litho- 


Barometer,  Phial 6183 

Barometer,  Use  of  the 6132 


Barrel,  to  cleanse  a  Foul 854 

Barrel.  Weight  of  a,  of  Various 

Goods.... 5973 

Barrel's  Indian  Liniment 5223 

Barrels,  Brandy,  to  plaster 695 


Beef,  Brine  for  Curing 1608       graphic  Crayons 1958 

Beef,  Essence  of 4616,  &c.    Berries,  to  can 1636 


Beef,  Extract  of,  Liebig's 1609  |  Berthold's  Chilblain  Wash 5295 


Beef  Marrow,  Factitious 6367 

Beef,  Pickle  for  Curing.. 1603,  1608 
Beef,  Sportsman's 1617 


Beryl,   Imitation 2442 

Bessimer's  Varnish  for  Metallic 

Paint 2894 

Be"ton  Coignet 2223 


Barrels!  Cider, 'to  cleanse 841  I  Beef,  to  can 1611  1  Betton's  British  OU 5361 

Barrels,  Leaky,  WaxPutty  for.  696  |  Beef,  to  cure  1607,  1618  i  Beyran's  Syphilitic  Wash 5349 


Barrels,  to  give  an  appearance 
of  Age  to 693 

Barrels,  to  make,  tight 855,  2195 

Bartlett's  Citrate  of  Bismuth. .  .4813 


Beef,  to  dry  1599 

Beef,  to  dry-salt  or  pickle 1602 

Beef,  to  keep,  fresh 1612 


Barwood  Dye  for  Cottons 154  i      cess 


Beef,  to  preserve,  Pelouze's  Pro- 


.1605 
.1610 


Barwood  Spirit 110 

Baryta 3985 

Baryta,  Acetate  of 4232 

Baryta,  Antidote  for 5899 

Baryta,  Carbonate  of 4233 

Baryta,  Hydrated 3987 

Baryta,  Manganate  of 4229 

Baryta,  Muriate  of. 4234  I  Beer,  Finings  for 871 


Beef,  to  preserve  with  Vine- 
gar  

Beef,  to  salt  by  Injection 1604 

Beef,  to  smoke 1600 

Beer,  Acidity  in,  to  Correct...  868 

Beer,  Bitter  Balls  for 870 

Beer,  Bucking 


Baryta,  Nitrate  of 4230 

Baryta,  Pure 3986 

Baryta,  Sulphate  of 2697,  4231 

Bartya,  Test  for 3988 

Barytes 2697,  &c. 

Barytic  Photographic  Solution  3181 

3183 

Basilicon  Ointments 4964,  &c. 

Basil  Vinegar 1771 

Bases  for  Artificial  Gems. 2421,  &c. 

Baskets,  Varnish  for 2939 

Bata via  Arrack,  Imitation. 700,  &c. 

Bateman's  Itch  Ointment 5239 

Bateman's  Pectoral  Drops 5193 

Bateman's  Sulphur  Wash 5274 

Bates'  Anodyne  Balsam 5209 

Bates'  Eye- Water 5803 

Bath  for  Dyeing 93 

Bath,  Hot  Air 5597 

Baths  for  Manipulations 3,  &c. 

Baths  used  in  Photography,  see 

PHOTOGRAPHY. 

Bath-Tubs,  Iron,  to  paint 6219 

Battley's  Senna  Powder 5232 

Battley's  Solution  of  Opium . . .  .5412 
Baume,  Degrees  of,  reduced  to 

Specific  Gravity €2,  65,  66 


Beer,  Flatness  in,  to  remedy. ..  878 

Beer,  Flavoring  for 864 

Beer,  Foxing 880 

Beer,  Frosted,  to  recover 879 

Beer,  German  Bouquet  for 882  I  Birds!  Mocking,  Food  for 

Beer,  Ginger 893,  &c.    Birds,  preparation  for  Stuffing. 

Beer,  Ginger,  Powders  for 902    Birds,  Singing,  Food  for 6191 

Beer,  Heading  for. . ; 
Beer,  Hot  Drops  for. 


Bicarbonates,  see  CARBONATES. 
Bichlorides,  see  CHLORIDES. 
Biett's   Solution  ...............  5298 

Biliousness,  Treatment  of  .....  5768 

Binacetates.  see  ACETATES. 
Binding  Knot,  to  tie  a  .........  6263 

Bingham's  Washing  Mixture..  480 
Binoxides,  see  OXIDES. 
Birch's  Constipation  Pills  5454,  5456 
Birch's  Acidimeter  and  Alkali- 

meter  .......................    82 

Bird  Lime  ....................  6383 

Bird's  Blue  Fire  ...............  2070 

Bird's  Mode  of  Silvering   on 

Glass  .......................  3620 

Birds,  Antiseptic  to  preserve..  1668 
Birds,  Canary,  to  clear  of  Lice.  1921 
™  "  "--"--  *•—  .»  -~  6191 

1667 


876 
891 


Birds,  to  embalm  ..............  1666 

Birthmarks,  to  remove  ........  5886 


Beer,  Lemon  ..................  899  ;  Bismarck-Brown  Aniline  Dye  2591 

Beer,  Mustiness  in,  to  remedy.  877  i  Bismuth  ......................  3344 

Beer,  Ottawa  Root  ............  892    Bismuth,  Caution  against,  as  a 

Beer,  Root  ....................  889  I       Cosmetic  ..............  •.  ____  1111 

Beer,  Ropiness  in,  to  remedy-  .  .  881    Bismuth,  Elixir  of  .............  5420 

Beer,  Spring,  to  brew  .........  883  :  Bismuth,  Nitrates  of  ..........  4134 

Beer,  Spruce. 


<fec.  !  Bismuth,  Oxide  of 4136 

Beeri  Spruce,  Powders  for '.  903  ,  Bismuth,  Tests  for  the  Salts  of.4137 

Beer,  to  brew 856,  &c.  i  Bismuth,  to  purify 3345 

Beer,  to  impart  Age  to 875    Bismuth,     to     Separate    from 

Beer,  to  ripen 874        Lead 3346 

Beer,  to  test,  for  Clarification . .  872    Bissextile  or  Leap  Tear 6064 


Beer,  Wahoo  Root 898 

Bees,  Stings  of,  to  cure 5927 

Beeswax  1577 

Beeswax,  Imitation 1588 

Beeswax,  Tests  for 1582 

Beeswax,  to  bleach 1578 


Baume,    Specific    Gravity    re-         |  Beeswax,  to  color 1586 

duced  to  Degrees  of 67  (  Beeswax,  to  refine 1584 

Banm6's  Areometers 64.  6165  ]  Beet-root  Pickles 1797 

Baum6's  Hydrometers 61,  63  |  Beet-roots,  to  preserve 1888 

Baum6's  Saccharometer 64    Belgian  Burnishing  Powder 3223 


Baume  de  la  Mecque 5111 

Banme  de  Vie 5365 


Bell  Metal 3348, 3441 

Belladonna,  Fluid  Extract  of.  .4574 


Baume  du  Commandeur 5419    Belladonna  Liniment 4871, 4879 

Baume  Nerval 5113  |  Belladonna,  Lotion  of 4849 


Bay-Rum,  Cheap 1029 

Bay -Rum,  Imitation 1027 

Bay-Rum,  West  Indian 1028 

Beach's  Black  Plaster 5285 

Beach's  Cure  for  White  Swell- 
ing  5777 

Beach's  Healing  Salve 5285 

Beach's  Neutralizing  Cordial.. 5394 
Beach's    Remedy    for    Tape- 
Worm  5C51 

Beach's  Remedy  for  Ulcers 5507 

Bean-Flower  Water,  to  distill  1072 


Belladonna,  Oil  of 4752 

Belladonna  Ointment ...  4943,  4983 

Belladonna,  Tincture  of 4484 

Bell's  Gargle 5307,  5609 

Belting,  Cements  for  joining. .  .2245 
Bengal  Chutney 1762 


Bengal  Lights 2071 

Benzine 1527, 4320 

Benzine,  Cautions  about 346 

Benzine,  Cement  to  resist 2161 

Benzine  Insect  Exterminator  1908 

Benzine  Stains,  to  remove 6344 

Benzine,  to  Deodorize 


Beans,  to  shell,  easily 6230    , ,„ 

Beans,  Vanilla,  to  grind 6279  j  Benzine!  to  extinguish  Burningi532 

Bearberry  Leaves,   Fluid   Ex-         i  Benzine,  to  purify  440 

tract  of 4577    ~ 

Bear's  Grease 1277 

Bear's  Grease,  Imitation 1278 


Beaut6.  Eau  de 1146 

Beaut6,  Pomade  de 1164 

Beck's  Areometers 6158,  6159 

Beeoeur's  Antiseptic  Soaps 1669 

Beooni's  Antiseptic  Soap 1672 

Becquerel's  Gout  Pills.  ..5187,  5318 
Bed -Bugs,  Poison  for 1905 


Benzoates. 


3942 


Benzoate  of  Ethyl 4294 


Benzoated  Lard 1521 

Benzoic  Acid 3942 

Benzoic  Acid,  Anhydrous 3944 

Benzoic  Acid,  to  obtain 3943 


Benzoin,  Oil  of 1242 

Benzoin  Pomade 1262 

Benzoin,  Tincture  of 1019,  4567 

Benzole 4321 


Bed-Bugs,  to  destroy 1903,  &c.  j  Benzole  to  test...-".".".          .!.4400 


Bistre 2692 

Bisulphides   and  Bisulphurets, 

see  SCLPHDUETS. 
Bites  of  Snakes,  Insects,  &c.,  to 

cure 5924,  &c. 

Bitter  Almond  Paste ....1124 

Bitter  Almond    Water,  to  'dis- 
till  107],  1073 

Bitter  Almonds,  Essence  of 943 

Bitter  Almonds,   Essential    Oil 

of 1465 

Bitter  Almonds,  Extract  of 1033 

Bitter  Almonds,    Extract     of, 

non-poisonous 1034 

Bitter  Balls  for  Beer 870 

Bitter  Essence 4615 

Bittern 4261 

Bittern,   Brewers' 869 

Bitters,  Filter  for 830 

Bitters,  made  with  Essences. . .  829 
Bitters,  General  Receipts  for..  814 
Bitter-Swcet,  Fluid  Extract  of  4577 

Bitter-Sweet  Ointment 4977 

Black  Ants,  to  Destroy 1848 

Black  Ants,  to  Disperse 1909 

Black  Aniline  Dyes 2571,  &c. 

Black-Boards,  Coating  for 6405 

Black-Boards,    Imitation  Slate 

for 6353 

Black  Bronzes 3778,  3708,  3819 

Black.  Brunswick 2899 

Black  Cement 2183,  2193 


Black  Characters,  to  write,  with 
Water 1977 

Black  Cherry  Essence,  Artifi- 
cial... ...1050 


Black  Cherry  Water,    to    dis- 
till  1071,  1073 

Black  Cohosh,  Extract  of 4750 

Black  Cohosh,  Fluid  Extract  of  4575 
4592 


BLA — BLO 


BLO — BON 


BON — BRA 


569 


Black  Cohosh,  Syrup  of 4654 

Black  Cohosh,  Tincture  of 4514 

Black  Copying  Paper 1926,  1948 

Black  Crape,  to  renovate 462 

Black  Crape,  to  clean 470 

Black  Currant  Wine 728 

Black  Draught 5212 

Black  Dyes  for  Cottons 138,  &c. 

Black  D  ves  for  Cotton  and  Wool 

mixed 288 

Black  Dye  for  Cotton  Silk  and 

Wool  mixed 291,  &o. 

Black  Dye  for  Ivory 1983 

Black  Dye  for  Silk 234,  &c.,  304 

Black  Dye  for  Silk  and  Wool 

mixed <. 290 

Black  Dye  for  the  Hair.. 1201,  &c., 

6401 
Black  Dye  for  the  Hair,  to  use.  1202 

Black  Dye  for  Wood 2825 

Black  Dye  for  Woolens.192,  222,  303 

Black  Dye  for  Veneers 2838 

Black  Enamels 2380,  2398 

Black  Eye,  to  treat 5792 

Black  Eye,  to  euro 5793 

Black  for  Miniature  Painters.  .2716 
Black  from  Colorless  Liquids.  .2627 

Black  Glazing 2410 

Black  Inks 2461,  &c.,  6406 

Black  Lace  Veils,  to  Wash 466 

Black  Lacquer  for  Metals  3064,  3387 

Black  Lead 4164 

Black  Lead,  to  bronze  with . . .  3774 
Black  Lustre-Color   for  Paper, 

&c 2626 

Black  Oils 4872 

Black  Pepper,  Extract  of .  .1039 

Black  Pepper,  Oil  of 4752 

Black  Pigments 2716,  2719 

Black  Plaster 5285 

Black  Powder  for  the  Hair 1103 

Black  Precipitate 4143 

Black  Reviver 458 

Black  Salve 4971,  5007 

Black  Sealing- Wax 2316 

Black,  Shoemaker's 3080 

Black  Silks,  to  clean 457 

Black  Silks,  to  restore 459 

Black  Sprinkle  for  Books 3127 

Black  Stain  for  Wood 2843,  2850 

2864 

Black  Varnish,  Aniline 2943 

Black  Varnish  for  Iron  Work. 2900 
Black,  Vinegar,  for  Book-Bind- 
ers  3118 

Black  Walnut,  see  WALNUT 

Black  Wash,  Mercurial 4847 

Blackberry  Brandy 782,  &c. 

Blackberry  Cordial 5658 

Blackberry  Root,  Fluid  Extract 

.of 4577 

Blackberry  Syrup,  Aromatic.  .4685 
Blackberry  Syrup  for  Soda  Wa- 
ter  1404 

Blackberry  Wine 731 

Blacking  for  Boots 3086,  &c. 

Blacking  for  Harness 3081,  &c. 

Blacking  for  Harness,  to  apply. 3085 
Bladder,   Spasm  of  the,  to  re- 
lieve  5741 

Bladders,  to  prepare 6239 

Blake's  Toothache  Cure 5868 

Blancard's  Pills,  Imitation 4930 

Eland's  Ferruginous  Pills 5474 

Blanquette 4208 

Blasting  Powders 2144 

Bleaching,  General  Receipts . .  1714 
Bleaching,  see  ARTICLE  to  be 
bleached 

Bleaching  Liquor 104,  4786 

Bleaching  Powder 4245 

Bleeding  in  Vines,  to  remedy.  .1878 

Bleeding,  to  Stop 5556,  &c. 

Blessed  Thistle,  Fluid  Extract  of  4604 

Blessed  Thistle  Tea 5140 

Blight  on  Trees,  to  Remedy . .  1844, 
1846 

Blistered  Steel 3274 

Blistering  Plaster 5053,  5087 

Blistering  Tissue 5083 

Blisters,  Management  of 5088 

Blisters,  to  Camphorate 5089 

Block  Tia 3314 


Blonde  Hair  Dye 1206  '  Bono,  to  silver 3628 

Blonde  Powder  for  the  Hair. .  .1104  I  Bones  of  Living  Animals,  &c., 

Blond,  White  Silk,  to  clean...  4731     to  dye  the 2008 

Blood  Cement 2172    Bones,  to  dissolve  for  Manure. 1820 

Blood  Maker  and  Purifier 5165   Bones,  to  obtain  Gelatine  from  4366 

Blood  Root,  Fluid  Extract  of.  .4575  |  Boneset,  Fluid  Extract  of 4576 

Blood  Root  for  Consumption. .  .5615   Boneset  Tea 5139 

Blood  Root  Syrup 5602,  5614  j  Bonnamy's  Dentifrice 5469 

Blood  Root,  tincture  of 4524    Bonnes  St.  Sauvcur  Water 4464 


Blood,  Spitting  of 5563,  5564 

Blood  Stains,  to  detect 6415 

Blood  Stains,  to  remove 6341 

Blood,  Test  for  the  Presence  of.  4393 

Bloom  of  Roses 1113 

Bloom  Sugar 1368 

Blue  Aniline  Dyes. . .  333,  2569,  2602 

Blue  Bengal  Lights 2071,  &c. 

Blue  Cement 2188 

Blue  Characters,  to  Write,  with 

Water 1978,  1980 

Blue  Copying  Paper 1948 

Blue  Dye" for  Cottons.  .130,  <fec.,  160 

Blue  Dye  for  Feathers 325 

Blue  Dye  for  Ivory 1987 

Blue  Dye  for  Silks. . .  .254,  &c.,  306 
2610,  2633 

Blue  Dye  for  Wood 2829 

Blue  Dye  for  Woolens. 204,  217,  232 
259,  2609 

Blue  Enamels 2381 

Blue  Fires 2069,  2073,  2108 

Blue  Flag,  Tincture  of 4518 

Blue  Fluid  for  making  Ink 2486 

Blue  Foil  for  Gems 2450 

Blue  Glazing 2409 

Blue  Inks 2478,  &c. 

Blue  Lights 2701,  2118 

Blue  Liquid  Colors.  .2615,  &c.,  2628 
2641. 

Blue  Pigments 2674,  2687 

Blue  Pills 4919 

Blue  Sealing  Wax 2322 

Blue  Sprinkle  for  Books 3103 

Blue  Stain  for  Glass 2361 

Blue  Stain  for  Marble 2037 

Blue  Stain  for  Wood 2862 

Blue  Stone 120 

Blue  Vat,  to  prepare  a 119 

Blue  Verditer 2688 

Blue  Vitriol 120,  4096 

Blue  Vitriol.  Antidotes  for 5904 

Bluing  for  Clothes 2617,  &c. 

Boards,  to  clean 426 

Boards,  to  extract  Ink  from . . .  392 
Boards,  to  extract  Stains  from .  394 
Boards,  to  find  the  Content  of.  5986 

Boards,  to  scour 427 

Boat-bottoms,  Paint  for 2771 

Bochet's  Syrup 5360 

Body,  Proportions  of  the  Hu- 
man   6148 

Body  Vermin,  to  destroy; 1920 

Beeli's  Cephalic  Snuff 5334 

Boettger's  Electric  Amalgam.  .3541 

Boettger's  Imitation  Gems 2445 

Boettger's  Method  of  Gilding 

on  Glass 3597 

Boettaror's  Test  for  Silver-plat- 
ed Ware 3714 

Bohemian  Crown  Glass 2344 

Bohemian  Tube  Glass 2340 

Boiled  Oil 2727,  &c. 

Boiled  Oil  for  Varnish 2872 

Boiled  Oil  for  Zinc  Paint 2734 

Boiled  Oil,  to  brighten 2732 

Boiler   Incrustations,  to    pre- 
vent  2329,  <fec. 

Boilers,  Paint'for 2774 

Boilers,  to  blow  out 6225 

Boiling  Heat  of  Liquids 6,  6133 

Boiling  Heat  of  Saturated  Solu- 
tions       7 

Boillot's  Purification  of  Fats.  .1517 

Boils,  Treatment  of 5553 

Boitard's  Anisette 802 

Boker's  Bitters 818 

Bond's  Compound  Mixture  of 

Iron 5248 

Bone  Fat 526 

Bone  Fat,  to  obtain 1525 

Bone  Fat,  to  purify 534 

Bone  Liniment 4893 

Bone,  to  dye,  see  IVOKF 


Bonnets,  Straw,  to  bleach 1720 

Bonnets,  Straw,  to  clean 511 

Bookbinders'  India-rubber  Glue  2293 
Bookbinders'  Marbles  and  Sprin- 
kles  3102,  &o. 

Bookbinders'  Varnish 2933 

Bookbinders'  Vinegar  Black.. 31 18 
Book  Covers,  to  marble.. 3109,  &c. 

Book  Edges,  to  gild 15574 

Book  Edges,  to  sprinkle. .  .3102,  &c. 
Book  Musliu,  to  clear-starch ...  501 

Boot  Powder 6319 

Booth's  Axle  Grease 1541 

Boots,  Blacking  for 3086,  &c. 

Boots,  French  Varnish  for 2957 

Boots,  Jet  for 3079 

Boots,  Sportmen's  Composition 

for 3071 

Boots,  to  make,  waterproof 3069 

Boots,  White  Jean,  to  clean. . .  453 

Boots,  White  Kid,  to  clean 454 

Borate  of  Manganese 2735 

Borax  and  Myrrh  Mouth  Wash  1333 

Borax,  Glass  of 2377 

Borax,  Honey  of 4695 

Borax  Lotion  for  Sore  Gums..  11 56 
Borax  Lotion,  Glycerinated  ..1157 
1162,  5452. 

Borax  Ointment 4951 

Borax  Ointment,  Glycerinated  4952 

Borax,  Test  for 4389 

Botot,  Eau 1 324 

Bottle-Green  Dye  for  Cottons. .  166 
Bottle-Green  Dye  for  Silks. 279,  &c. 
Bottle-Green  Dye  for  Woolens.  226 

Bottle  Cocktail 924 

Bottle  Wax  for  Sealing  Corks. .  929 

Bottles,  Castor,  to  clean 433 

Bottles,  Cements  for  sealing. .  .2238 

Bottles,  Glass  for 2341 

Bottles,  Gold  Labels  for 2493 

Bottles,  to  clean 431 

Bottles,  to  cork 930 

Bottles,  to  cut 2369 

Bottles,  to  fill,  with  Boiling  Li- 
quids   4617 

Bouchardat's  Gaseous    Purga- 
tive  4476 

Boudault's  Pcpsine  Pills 5459 

Boudet's  Depilatory 1221 

Boudet's  Test  for  Olive  Oil 1500 

Bougies 6369 

Bougies,  Hollow 6371,  6372 

Bouquet  de  Millefleurs 1065 

Bouquet  do  Rondeletia 1066 

Bouquet,  Eau  de 992 

Bouquet,  Esprit  dc 1002 

Bouquet,  German,  for  Beer. . . .  882 

Bouquet,  Jockey  Club 1064 

Bouquet  Soap 564 

Bourbon  Whiskey,  Imitation  . .  683 
Bourbon  Whiskey,  to  improve .  6293 
Bouyer's  Syrop  do  Lait  Iodique5332 

Bowline  Knot,  to  tic  a 6265 

Boxes,  Capacity  of 6004,  6005 

Boxwood,  to  stain,  brown 2865 

Boyle's  Fuming  Liquor 5353 

Boyle's  Lute  for  Retorts 2266 

Braconnot's  Artificial  Wax. . .  .1589 
Braconnot's  Glue  of  Caseino. .  .2294 

Brainard's  Solution 5453 

Bran,  Prepared,  for  the  Hair..  1102 
Brandish's  Alkaline  Solution  .  .5357 
Brandish's  Alkaline  Tincture  of 

Rhubarb 5356 

Brandreth's  Pills 5391 

Brandy 1435 

Brandy  Bitters 823 

Brandy,  Blackberry 782,  &c. 

Brandy,  Cherry 784,  791 

Brandy,  Filter  for 17,  709 

Brandy,  Imitation 676,  &c. 

Brandy,  Peach 785,  813 

Brandy,  Peppermint 787 


BRI  —  BUI 


BOL  —  CAL 


Brandy  Punch 919 

Brandy  Smash 925 

Brass 3358,  &c. 

Brass,  Bronzing  for.  3779,  3784,  3797 

Brass,  Dark . .  .:5368 

Brass  expanding  equally  with 

Iron... 3376 

Brass,  Flux  for  soldering. 3480,  3531 

Brass  for  Buttons 3364 

Brass  for  Castings 3367 

Brass  for  Gilding 33fi9 

Brass  for  Solder 3371 

Brass  for  Turning 3372 

Brass  for  Wire 3375 

Brass,  Inlaid,  to  clean 3392 

Brass,  Inlaid,  to  polish 2982 

Brass,  Lacquers  for.  .3048,  &c.,  3387 

Brass,  Malleable 3360 

Brass  Ornaments,  to  color 3396 

Brass,  Pale  . .  .3365,  3369,  3372,  3375 

Brass,  Paste  for  cleaning 3391 

Brass  Red 3363,  3370,  3373 

Brass,  Sheet 3348 

Brass  Solder 3512 

Brass,  Solder  for 3507  &c.,  3517 

Brass,  Solutions  for  cleaning. . .  3393 

Brass,  to  clean 3389 

Brass,  to  clean,  for  lacquering. 3047 
Brass,  to  coat  Metal  with  3633,  <S.-c. 

Brass,  to  coat,  with  Silver 3607 

Brass,  to  coat,  with  Tin.  .3644,  3648 

Brass,  to  coat,  with  Zinc 3651 

Brass,  to  coat  Zinc  with 3655 

Brass,  to  color. 3188,  3313,  3379,  3382 
&c.,  3390 

Brass,  to  electroplate  on 3711 

Brass,  to  electroplate  with  3752,  3769 

Brass,  to  frost 3381 

Brass,  to  give  an  English  look  to  3388 
Brass,  to  give  a  Moire  appear- 
ance  3386 

Brass,  to  harden 3377 

Brass,  to  lacquer 3046 

Brass,  to  platinize 3658 

Brass,  to  protect 3765 

Brass,  to  put  a  Black  Finish  on  3380 

Brass,  to  scour 3271 

Brass,  to  soften 3378 

Brass  Solution,  to  prepare 3768 

Brass,  Yellow 3348, 3359 

Brazilian  Money 6115 

Brazilian  Weights    and  Mea- 
sures  6116,  &c. 

Brazing  or  Hard  Soldering 3488 

Bread  Poultice 5019 

Breast,  Sore,  Salve  for... 4985,  4990 
5290. 

Breast,  Sore,  Wash  for 5393 

Breath,  Bad,  Pastils  for.  .1336,  5405 
5462. 

Breath,  Bad,  to  cure 5859,  &c. 

Breath,  Odor  of  Onions  in,  to 

correct 5864 

Breath,  Shortness  of,  remedy  for  5764 
Breath,  Shortness  of,  to  relieve. 5765 

Brewers'  Yeast 1808 

Brewing 856 

Brewing,  Important  Hints  on . .  863 

Brewing,  Utensils  for 857 

Brewing  Utensils,  to  clean 6333 

Brick-dust  Cement 6386 

Bricks,  Number   required    for 

Paving 6000 

Bricks,  Number   required   for 

Walls 6000 

Bricks,  Red  Wash  for 2809 

Brickwork,  Measurement  of. .  .6000 
Brickwork,  to  pencil  or  point.  .2792 
Brighton  Chalybeate  Water  ..4469 
Brimstone,  see  ScLi'HUK. 

Briony  Root,  to  dry 1889 

Bristles,  to  dye 662 

Bristles,  to  stiffen  661 

Britannia  Metal aT48,  3417 

Britannia  Metal,  Flux  for  sol- 
dering  3484 

Britannia  Metal,  to  clean 3418 

Britannia  Metal,  to  electroplate 

on 3711 

British  Oil 5361 

British  AVcights  und  Measures  6031 
Brittleneea  of  Metals,  Compara- 
tive  3357 


Brix's  Areometers  .......  6161,  6162 

Brocatelle  Curtains,  to  clean.  .  .  450 
Brodie's  Decoction  of  Pareira 

Brava  ......................  5310 

Brodie's  Liniment  .............  5282 

Brodum's  Nervous  Cordial  .....  5351 

Bromides  .....................  4261 

Bromide  of  Ammonium  .......  4227 

Bromide  of  Ammonium,  Elixir 

of  ...........................  5374 

Bromide  of  Cadmium  .........  4263 

Bromide  of  Potassium  ........  419g 

Bromide  of  Potassium,  Elixir  of  5449 
Bromide  of  Sodium  ...........  423  4 

Bromide  of  Sodium,  Elixir  of.  .5215 
Bromide  Paper,  Photographic  .3  172 
Bromine  ......................  4261 

Bronchitis,  Treatment  of  ......  5596 

Bronze  .......................  3348 

Bronze-Brown  Dye  for  Silks.  .  .  245 
Bronze,  Fontainemoreau's  .....  3448 

Bronze,  Lacquer  for  ...........  305fi 

Bronze,  Phosphorus  ...........  3447 

Bronze,  to  clean  ...............  3450 

Bronze,  to  electroplate  on  ......  3711 

Bronzing  .................  3771,  <fcc. 

Bronzing  Fluids,  3817,  &c.,  3778,  &c. 

3797,  &c. 
Bronzing  for  Wood  ............  3825 

Bronzing  on  Brass.  .3779,  3784,  3797 
Bronzing  on  Copper.  3772,  3780,  3787 

3807,  <fec. 
Bronzing  on  Iron  Castings  ____  3791 

Bronzing  on  Medals  ......  3772,  <fcc. 

Bronzing  on  Paper  ............  3793 

Bronzing  on  Plaster  Casts  .....  3824 

Bronzing  on  Porcelain  ........  3827 

Bronzing  on  Tin  Castings  .....  3790 

Bronzing  on  Zinc.  .  .  .....  3797,  3811 

Bronzing  Powders  ..3794,  &c.,  3823 
Bronzing,  Surface  .............  3792 

Brooms,  Management  of..  .....  6217 

Brown  Bronzes  ......  3772,  3798,  &c 

Brown  Aniline  Dye  .......  2589,  &c. 

Brown  Characters,  to  write,  with 

Water  .......................  1979 

Brown  Dye  for  Cotton  .....  142,  &c. 

Brown  Dye  for  Cotton  and  Wool  289 
Brown  Dyo  for  Silks  .......  241,  &c. 

Brown  Dye  for  Woolens  193,223,  305 
Brown  Enamels  ...............  2382 

Brown  Glazing  ................  2411 

Brown  Hair-Dyes  .............  1211 

Brown  Marking-Ink  ^  ........  2513 

Brown  Mixture  ...............  5588 

Brown  Ointment  ..............  4959 

Brown  Sealing  Wax  ..........  2321 

Brown  Sprinkle  for  Bookbind- 

ers .....................  3105,  3125 

Brown  Stain  for  Boxwood  .....  2865 

Brown  Stain  for  Glass  .........  2361 

Brown  Stain  for  Marble  .......  2038 

Brown  Staiu  for  Wood  .  .  .2853,  &c. 
Brown  Tint  for  Iron  and  Steel.  3262 
Brown  Windsor  Soap  .........  559 

Brown's  Bronchial  Troches  ----  5256 

Brown's  Cholera  Mixture  ......  5668 

Brucine,  or  Brucia  ............  4006 

Bruises  in  Furniture,  to  take 

out  .........................  6221 

Bruises,  Liniment  for  ____  4887,  4889 

Bruises,  Poultice  for  ...........  5025 

Brunswick  Black  .............  2899 

Brunswick  Green  .............  2710 

Brushes,  Feather,  to  make  .....  6203 

Brushes  for  Varnishing  .......  2977 

Brushes,  Hair,  to  clean  ........  416 

Brust  Thee  ...................  5425 

Bryant  &  James'  Blacking  3092,  3099 
Buehner's  Carmine  Ink  .......  2501 

Suchncr's  Soluble  Soda  Glass.  .2819 
3uchu,  Fluid  Extract  of.  .4574,  4590 
Buchu  Leaves,  Infusion  and 

Tincture  of  .................  5150 

Sucking  Beer  .................  880 

3uff  Dye  for  Cottons  ......  135,  &c. 

3uff  Dye  for  Silks  ............  269 

3ugs,  Croton,  to  destroy  .......  1902 

3ugs.  Bed,  see  BED-BOGS. 
Building  Materials,  Heat  Con- 

ducting Power  of  ............  6125 

Suflding-Stone,  Artificial  ......  2219 

Buisson'a  Purple  of  Cassius..  .2723 


Bulbous  Roots,  to  dry  ..........  1889 

Bulbous  Roots,  to  preserve  .....  1888 

Buinstead's  Gonorrhoea  Injec- 

tion .........................  5438 

Bungs,  Leaky,  Wax  Putty  for.  696 
Bunions,  to  cure  ..............  5867 

Bunsen's  Rapid  Filtration  .....  38:58 

Burdock,  Fluid  Extract  of  .....  4596 

Burdocks,  to  destroy  ..........  1868 

Burgundy  -Pitch  Plaster  .......  5052 

Bnrnet  vinegar  ...............  1771 

Burnett's  Antiseptic  Solution..  1656 
Burnett's  Disinfecting  Fluid.  .  .1695 
Burns,  Blistered,  to  cure  ......  5520 

Burns  caused  by  Gunpowder, 

to  treat  .....................  5523 

Burns,  Liniment  for  ...........  5472 

Bums,  Recent,  to  cure  ........  5514 

Burns,  Slight,  to  cure  ..........  5520 

Bums,  Superficial,  to  cure  .....  5515 

Burns  and  Scalds,  Treatment  of  5512 
Bushel,  Imperial  ..............  5970 

Bushel,  New  York  ............  5970 

Bushel,  Weight  of  a,  of  various 

Goods  .......................  5974 

Bushel,  Winchester  ...........  5970 

Bushes,  Blight  in,  to  remove.  .  .1846 
Bushes,  Insects  on,  to  remove.  .1845 
Bussang  Water  ...............  4470 

Busts,  to  Bronze  ..............  3781 

Busts,  to  electrotype  ...........  3693 

Butter  of  Antimony  ...........  4131 

Butter,  Rancid,  to  restore  ......  1625 

Butter,  Strong,  to  improve  .....  1626 

Butter,  to  color  ................  2635 

Butter,  to  preserve  .......  1620,  &o. 

Butter,  to  prevent  Rancidity  in  1493 
Butternut  Pills  ................  5319 

Buttons,  Brass  for  .............  3364 

Buttons.  Copper,  to  silver-coat.  3609 
Butyrates  .....................  39fiC 

Butyrate  of  Ethyl  ..............  4293 

Butyrate  of  Magnesia  ......  ,  .  .  4260 

Butyric  Acid  .............  t  ____  3966 

Butyric  Ether  .................  4293 

Butyriue  ......................  4260 

Cabbage,  Pickled  .............  1799 

Cabinet  Varnish  ..............  2893 

Cacao   Pomade  for  the   Lips, 
&c  ..........................  1136 

Cachou  Aromatise  ............  1336 

Cadet's  Syrup  of  Ipecacuanha.  4682 
Cadmium  Alloys,  Dentists'.  .  .  .34:58 

Cadmium  Amalgam,  Dentists'  3544, 

3549. 
Cadmium,  Bromide  of  .........  4263 

Cadmium,  Iodide  of  .........   .  4262 

Cadmium  Red  ................  2700 

Cadmium  Yellow  .....  ...2638,2700 

Caffeine  ......................  4010 

Caieput  Liniment  .............  4890 

Calamine  .....................  5761 

Calamus,  Essential  Oil  of  ......  1465 

Calcination  ...................  3849 

Calcium,  Chloride  of  ..........  4246 

Calendar,  Universal  ...........  6147 

alcium,   Chloride  of,  to    pre- 
pare ........................  4247 

^nlicoes,  to  clean  .............  448 

California  Brown  Dye  for  Silks   241 
2ulifornia  Champagne  ........  720 

sulis:iy:i  and  Bismuth,  Elixir 
of  .....................  4700,  4701 

)alisaya  and  Protoxide  of  Iron, 
Elixir  of  ....................  4702 

^alisa  y;l,  Elixir  of  .......  4698,  4701 

/alisaya,  Ferrophosphorated 
Elixir  of  ...............  4699,  4700 

Cnlisaya,  Fluid  Extract  of  .....  4577 

alisaya,  Precipitated  Extract 
of  ..........................  4706 

^alisaya,  Wine  of  .............  4711 

ballot's  Eau  Forte,  or  Etching 
Fluid  .......................  2962 

Calomel  ......................  4138 

Calomel,  Antidotes  for  ........  5902 

'alomel  Pills  .................  4920 

Calomel,  Use  of,  in  Cholera  ____  5673 

Jalotype  Paper  ...............  3170 

alumba,  Infusion  of  ..........  5121 

Jalvcrt's  Tests  for  Pure  Oils..  149(1 
Jnlvctti's  Manna  Lemonade.  .  .5247 


CAM — CA1J 


CAR — CAT 


CAT — CHA 


571 


Cambric,  to  clear-starch 501 

Cainellia-Cuttings,  to  manage.  1831 

Camp  Vinegar 1777 

Camphor 4357 

Camphor  Black 2716 

Camphor  Drops 4611 

Camphor,  Essence  of 4611 

Camphor  Ico 1132 

Camphor  Julep 4611 

Camphor  Liniment 4880 

Camphor  Mixture 5387 

Camphor  Ointment 4941,  540:) 

Camphor,  Spirits  of 4803 

Camphor,  Tincture  of 4G11 

Camphor,  to  pulverize 4358 

Camphor  Water. . .  .4754,  47GG,  431 1 

Camphorated  Blisters 5089 

Camphorated  Chalk 1290 

Camphorated  Lotion. 4822,  4844 

Camphorated  Oil 4863 

Canada  Balsam - 5100 

Canada  Balsam,  Factitious 5101 

Canada  Liniment 5280 

Canada  Varnish 2921 

Canary  Birds,  to  clear  of  Lico.  11)21 

Cancer  Ointment 5386 

Cancer,  Plaster  for 5047 

Cancer,  Remedy  for 5748,  5772 

Candles,  Aromatio 1351 

Candles,  Home-made 631,  &c. 

Candles,  Lard 036 

Candles,  Scented 1351 

Candles,  Tallow  for C35 

Candles,  Tallow,  to  harden 637 

Candle-Wicks,  to  improve G231 

Candle- Wicks,  to  make 632 

Candy,  Degrees  of  boiling  Sugar 

for 1368 

Candy,  Live-Long 5260 

Candy,  Molasses 6280 

Candying,    to    prevent    Syrup 

from 1365 

Cane  Seats  of  Chairs,  to  clean.  419 

Cane,  Staining  for 2866 

Canella,  Fluid  Extract  of 4579 

Canclla  Water,  to  distill.  1071,  1073 
Canning,  see  ARTICLE  to  be  canned. 
Canning,  to  expel  the  Air  in. .  .1637 
Canning,  to  insure  Success  in.  1635 

Cantharidal  Collodion 4742 

Cantharides  Liniment... 4874,  4891 

Cantharides,  Oil  of 4752 

Cantharides  Ointment 5017 

Cantharides  Plasma 5010 

Cantharides  Plaster 5053 

Cantharides,  Tinctui-3  of 4539 

Cantharides,  Vinegar  of 1178 

Canton's  Phosphorus 4335 

Canvas,  Flexible  Paint  for 2765 

Canvas,  to  render  Fireproof 1563 

Canvas,  to  render  Waterproof  .1561 

Caoutchouc  Cement 2257 

Caoutehoucine 2249 

Capaccioni's  process  for  Harden- 

ing  Tallow 638 

Capillaire  Syrup  for  Cordials..  .1380 

Capsicum,  Extract  of 1040 

Capsicum,  Fluid  Extract  of 4579 

Capsicum,  Oil  of 4752 

Capsicum,  Syrup  of 4670 

Capsicum,  Tincture  of 4486 

Capsules,  Copaiba 541(5 

Capsules,  Copaiba  and  Tar 5417 

Capsules,  Gelatine 6333 

Caramel 694,  1368 

Caramel,  to  purify 2632 

Caraway  Cordial 769,  789,  6292 

Caraway,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Carbolic  Acid 391G 

Carbolic  Acid,  Antidote-  for... 5915 
Carbolic  Acid  as  a  Disinfect- 
ant  1698 

Carbolic  Acid  as  a  Preserva- 
tive  1673 

Carbolic  Acid  Gargle 5066 

Carbolic  Acid   Lotion 4835 

Carbolic  Acid  Paper 1614 

Carbolic  Acid   Soap 581 

Carbolic  Acid  Solution 4800 

Carbolic  Acid,  Test  for  .  .1647,  3918 

Carbolic  Acid,  to  deodorize 3919 

Carbolic  Acid,  to  obtain 3917 

Carbolic  Cerate 4903 


Carbolic  Plaster 50C1  |  Catechu,  Tincture  of 4547 

Carbolic  Salve 4996  |  Catechn,  to  prepare,  for  dyeing    SO 

Carbon  Ink 2514,  2530  j  Caterpillars,  to  drive  away 1923 


Carbon,  Sulphurets  of 4309,  <kc 

Carbonates 3913 

Carbonate  of  Ammonia. .  .4219,  &c. 
Carbonate  of  Ammonia,   Solu- 
tion   4792 

Carbonate  of  Baryta 4233 

Carbonate  of  Cobalt 4252 

Carbonate  of  Iron,  Saccharine.4163 

Carbonate  of  Lead 2693 

Carbonate  of  Lime  Water,  Aer- 
ated  4435 

Carbonate  of  Lithia 42138 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 4240 

Carbonate  of  Potassa 4181,  <tc. 

Carbonate  of  Soda 4208,  <fec. 

Carbonate  of  Soda  Solutions, 

Table  of 627 

Carbonate  of  Zinc 4112 

Carbonic  Acid 3913,  4063 

Carbonic  Acid,  Antidotes  for.  .5913 

Carbonic  Acid,  Testa  for 3915 

Carbonic  Acid,  to  obtain 3914 

Carbonic  Acid  Water 4431 

Carbonic  Oxide 4064 

Carbonic  Oxide,  to  obtain 4065 

Carbuncle 5554 

Carbuncle,  Imitation  Gem 2429 

Carburet  of  Iron 4164 

Carburetted  Hydrogen. . .  .4048,  <tc. 
Cardamom,  Fluid  Extract  of. .  .4579 
Cardamom,  Tincture  of.  .1023,  4540 

4568. 
Card- Work,  to  varnish 2965 


Card- Work,  Varnish  for 2939 

Carlsbad  Water 4438 

Cannes,  Eau  des 988 

Carminatives 5087 

Carminative,  Dalby's 5172 

Carminative,  Dewee's 5250 

Carminative  Drops 5689 

Carminative,  Murphy's 5388 

Carmine  Ink 2501 

Carmine  Purple  Dye 2029 

Carmine  Rouge 1112 

Carmine,  to  brighten 2679 

Carmine,  to  make 2677 

Carpets,  to  clean 444 

Carpets,  to  preserve 6242 

Carpets,  to  remove  Grease  from  358 
Carpets,  to  remove  Oil  from...  357 

Carpets,  to  sweep 447 

Carpets,  Stair,  to  preserve 0199 

Carrara  Water,  Aerated 4435 

Carnage  Varnishes 2877 

Carron  Oil 5513 

Carrot  Poultice 5024 

Carrots,  to  preserve 1888 

Carthamine 2683 

Cascarilla  Water,  to  distill 1071, 

Case  Hardening 3297,  &c. 

Caseine  Glue 2294 

Casks,  Leaky,  Wax  Putty  for.  096 
Casks,  to  clean 854 


Casks,  to  prepare,  for  Cider  839, 854 
Casks,  Varnish  for  Inside  of. .  .2970 

Cassia,  Essence  of 970 

Cassia,  Oil  of 1227 


Cassia  Pomade 1263 

Cast  Iron,  see  IRON 
Cast  Iron,  to  coat,  with  Copper  3035 
Cast  Iron,  to  coat  with  Zinc  . . .  3(550 
Cast  Steel,  see  STEEL. 

Castilian  Tooth-Cream 1311 

Castillon's  Powders 5475 

Castings,  Brass  for 3367 

Castings,  German  Silver  for... 3411 

Castor  Bottles,  to  wash 433 

Castor  Oil,  Coloring  for 6323 

Castor  Oil  Pomade 127G 

Castor  Oil,  Tincture  of 4541 

Castor  Oil,  to  bleach 1504 

Castor  Oil,  to  disguise  the  Taste 

of 5888,  &c. 

Castor  Oil,  to  purify 1503 

Castor  Oil,  to  test 1409,  1501 

j  Cataract,  Mixture  for 5808 

I  Catarrh,  Treatment  of 5586 

!  Catawba  Champagne 719 

Catechu  Dyes  for  Cottons. .  .147, 181 
.  Catechu  Ointment 4945 


Cathartic  Pills 4917,  5303,  5316 

Cathay,  Creme  do 1128 

Catheters 6371 

Cathode  of  a  Battery 3667 

Cats,  to  drive  Fleas  from 1913 

Catsups 1766,  &e. 

Catsups,  Cautions  to  bo  observ- 
ed ia  making 1766 

Cattle,  Live,  Weight  of 6127 

Cauliflower,  Pickled 1792 

Caustics 5074,  &c. 

Caustic  Alkali 5357 

Caustic  Alkali,  to  test 584,  &c. 

Caustic  Black 5330 

Caustic  for  Corns 5079 

Caustic  Iodine 5077 

Caustic  Iodine  Solution 5422 

Caustic  Lint 5076 

Caustic  Lve,  Soapmakers'..519,  588 

Caustic  Lyes,  Tables  of 629,  630 

Caustic  Potash 101,  4192 

Caustic  Potash,  to  test 585 

Caustic  Soda 102 

Caustic  Soda,  to  test 585 

Caustic,  to  apply,  to  the  Ure- 
thra  5737 

Caustic,  Vegetable 5075,  5825 

Cauterets  Water 4464 

Cayenne  Pepper 1789 

Cayenne  Pepper  and  Salt,  Infu- 
sion of 5312 

Cazenavc's  Antiseptic  Lotion . .  4850 
Cazenavc's  Lotion  of  Cyanide  of 

Potassium 1158 

Cazenavc's  Pomade 1280 

Ceilings,  Cement  for 2171 

Celery,  Extract  of. 1043 

Celery  Vinegar 1772 

Celsius'  Thermometer 85 

Cements 2151,  &.c. 

Cement,  Colored 2182,  &c. 

Cement,  Elastic 6391 

Cement  for  Building  Purposes. 2173 

2181,  G38G. 
Cement  fcr  Cracked  Iron  Pots  6387 

Cement  for  Glass  Letters 6312 

Cement  fcr  Sealing  Bottles 2239 

Cement,  Tooth 5878,  fee. 

Cement  to     resist     Sulphuric 

Acid 6311 

Cementation,  Steel  made  by...  3274 
Cementing,  see  ARTICLE  to  be 

joined. 
Cementing,  General  Directions 

for 2151 

Ccncttc's  Process  for  Carmine. 2678 
Centigrade,   Fahrenheit  and 

Reaumur  Compared 92 

Centigrade  Thermometer 85 

Centigrade,  to  reduce  Fahren- 
heit to 87 

Centigrade,  to  reduce  Reaumur 
to. 


Centigrade,  to  reduce,  to  Fah- 
renheit   86 

Centigrade,  to  reduce,  to  Reau- 
mur   90 


Cephalic  Snuff 3533,  3334 

Cerates 4931 

Cerates,  see  SALVES 

Cerise  Aniline  Dye 2578 

Chafing,  Remedy  for 5819 

Chalk,  Camphorated 1290 

Chalk  Drawings,  to  fix 1960 

Chalk  Mixture 4747 

Chalk,  Precipitated 1291 

Chalk,  Prepared : 1 292 

Chalk,  to  detect,  in  Milk 4376 

Chalybeate  Waters.  .4467,  <tc.,  4474 

Chameleon  Mineral 2637 

Chamomile,  Essence  of 461:5 

Chamomile,  Fluid  Extract  of.  .4597 

Chamomile,  Oil  of 4752 

Chamomilc,  Syrup  of 4678 

Chamomile  Water,  to  distill. . .  1071 

1073. 
Champaguat'ii     India-Rubber 

Varnish 2889 

Champagne,  Cheap 723,  &c. 

Champagne,  Grape 6417 


572     CHA — CHI 


Home-Made 730 

Imitation 713,  &c. 

Syrup  for 715 

to  gas 718 

to    prepare    for 


Champagne 
Champagne 
Champagne 
Champagne 
Champagne  .  . 

Charging 717 

Champagne-Cider 844,  &c. 

Champagne-Cider,  Imitation..  847 

Chandler's  Chlorodyne 5204 

Channing's  Mixture 531 

Chapped  Hands,  to  cure 5822 

Chapman's  Copaiba  Mixture.. 5263 
Chapman's  Peristaltic    Persua- 
ders  5320 

Chaps,  Borax  Lotion  for 1157 

Charcoal,  Alumenized 1730, 4314 

Charcoal,  Animal 1752 

Charcoal,  Areca-nut 1302 

Charcoal  as  an  Antiseptic 1648 

Charcoal  Crayons 1971 

Charcoal,  Caution  about 1649 

Charcoal  Filter 17 

Charcoal  for  Dentifrice 1317 

Charcoal  from  Coal  Tar 1731 

Charcoal  Poultice 5026 

Charcoal,  Prepared 1294 

Charcoal,  Properties  of 1729 

Charcoal,  to]change  the  Color  of 

Flowers  by 1833 

Charcoal  Tooth-Paste 1316 

Charta  Epispastica 5350 

Chartreuse,    Liqueur    de    la 

Grande 806,  6291 

Chaudet's  Springs  for  Artificial 

Teeth 3406 

Chaussier's  Obstetric  Ointment  5341 

Chauvet's  Anisette 803 

Cheese,  to  make 1592,  &c. 

Chelsea  Pensioner 5302 

Chemic 162,  2616 

Chemical  Drying 3842 

Chemical  Equivalents. . .  .6150,  6151 

Chemical  Food '. 4645 

Chemical  Glasses,  Cement  for.  .2237 

Chemical  Manipulations 1, 3830 

Chemicals,  Miscellaneous 4074 

Chemical  Nomenclature 3853 

Chemical  Soap 546 

Chemical  Washing 3841 

Cherry  Bounce 793 

Cherry  Brandy 784 

Cherry,  Currant,  and  Kaspberry 

Wine 728 

Cherry  Essence,  Artificial 1049 

Cherry  Juice 791 

Cherry  Laurel  Lotion 1161 

Cherry  Laurel  Water 1071,1073 

Cherry  Pectoral 5267 

Cherry  Syrup 1381 

Chorry  Vinegar 1780 

Cherry  Wine 728 

Chewing  Gum 6317 

Chicory,  Test  for,  in  Coffee 4373 

Chilblain 5832 

Chilblain  Liniment. 4883,  4891,  5398 

Chilblain  Ointment 4934,  5403 

Chilblain,  Remedies  for. .  .5833,  &c. 

Chilblain  Wash 5295,  5398,  5401 

Childbirth,  Remedy  for  After- 
pains 5722 

Children's  Heads,  to   destroy 

Vermin  in 1919 

Chili  Vinegar 1776 

Chimneys,  to  examine 6410 

Chimneys,  to  put  out  Fire  in. .  .6209 
China-Crape  Scarfs,  to  wash..  465 
China-Ware,  see  PORCELAIN. 

Chinese  Bronze 3776 

Chinese  Cement 2155 

Chinese  Depilatory 1222 

Chinese  Fire 2055 

Chinese  Japanning 3038 

Chinese  Marble  for  Books 3120 

Chinese  Money 6110 

Chinese  Varnish,  Imitation 2923 

Chinese  Weights  and  Measures  6111 

Chinese  White  Copper 3414 

Chintz,  to  clean 448 

Chintz,  to  preserve  the  Colors  of  487 

Chintz,  to  Wash 492 

Chiretta,  Fluid  Extract  of 4576 

Chiretta  Pills 5192 

Chiretta,  Tincture  of 4516 


CHL — CHB 

Moral 4276 

Moral,  Hydrate  of 4276 

hloral,  Hydrate  of,  to  purify.  .4278 

hlorates 3962 

hlorate  of  Potassa.4184,  &c.,  4856 
hlorate  of  Potassa,  Caution  in 

using 2124 

hlorie  Acid 3963 

Moric  Acid,  to  obtain 3964 

Ihloric  Ether 4297 

Chlorides 4069 

Chloride,  Auric 4075 

Chloride,  Anrous 4075 

Chloride  of  Antimony 4131 

Chloride  of  Barium 4234 

Chloride  of  Barium  Solution  .  .4774 

Chloride  of  Calcium 4246 

Chloride  of  Calcium,   Solution 

of 4778,4780 

Chloride  of  Cobalt 4251 

Chloride  of  Copper 4097 

Chloride  of  Ethyl 4290 

Chloride  of  Gold 3725,  4075 

Chloride  of  Iron 117,  4165 

Chloride  of  Iron,  Tincture  of.  .4504 
Chloride  of  Iron,  Syrup  of.  4660, 4662 
4665. 

Chloride  of  Lead 4102 

Chloride  of  Lime 4245 

Chloride  of  Lime  Disinfectant.  1704 
Chloride  of  Lime,  Lotion  of . .  .4830 
Chloride  of  Lime,  Solution  of  .  .4786 

Chloride  of  Magnesium 4243 

Chloride  of  Mercury 4138,  &c. 

Chloride  of  Mercury,  Lotion  of  1145 
Chloride  of  Mercury  and  Am- 
monia  4142 

Chloride  of  Nickel 4174 

Chloride  of  Platinum  3220,  4084,  &c. 
Chloride  of  Potassa,  Lotion  of.  4832 
Chloride  of  Potassa,  Solution  of  4787 

Chloride  of  Potassium  4199 

Chloride  of  Silver 3214,  3216 

Chloride  of  Soda,  Lotion  of 4831 

Chloride  of  Soda,  Solution  of  .  .4788 

Chloride  of  Sodium 4215 

Chloride  of  Tin 4123,  4124 

Chloride  of  Tin,  Solution  of  . .  .1653 

Chloride  of  Zinc 4109,  4111 

Chlorinated  Lime 4245 

Chlorinated  Poultice 5038 

Chlorinated  Soda,  Solution  of..  4788 

Chlorine 4069 

Chlorine,  Antidote  for 5916 

Chlorine,  Tests  for 4071 

Chlorine,  to  obtain 4070 

Chlorodyne 5200,  &c. 

Chlorodyne  Mixture 5655 

Chloroform 4271 

Chloroform  Elixir 4730 

Chloroform  Liniment 4876 

Chloroform  Ointment 4982 

Chloroform,  Pure 4273 

Chloroform  Syrup 4659 

Chloroform,  Tests  for 427,r 

Chloroform,  to  obtain 427S 

Chloroform,  to  purify 4274 

Chlorurets,  see  CHLORIDES. 

Chocolate  Dye  for  Cottons 14£ 

Chocolate,  French 627f 

Chocolate,  Plain 6275 

Chocolate,  Spanish  Aromatic ..  6277 
Chocolate,  Spanish  Almond  and 

Vanilla 6278 

Chocolate  Syrup 1409 

Choke  Damp 3913 

Cholagogue 52(il,  5396 

Cholera  Morbus,  see  DIARRHCEA. 
Cholera,  Preventive  against. .  .566 
5671. 

Cholera,  Remedies  for 5666,  &c. 

Cholera,  Treatment  of  . .  5662,  <fcc. 
Christison's  Flux  for  Arsenic.  .3469 
Chromate  Photographic  Solu- 
tion   3182 

Chromates 394J 

Chromate  of  Lead 4104,  4105 

Chromate  of  Potassa,  Red 4187 

Chromate  of  Potassa,  Red,  Sub- 
stitute for 4188 

Chromate  of  Potassa,  Yellow.. 4186 

Chromatype  Paper 3173 

Chrome  Dyes  for  Cottons..  183,  &c. 


CHR — CLA 

Chrome  Dyes  for  Woolens. 221,  &o. 

Chrome  Green 2715 

Chrome  Orange 2707 

Chrome  Red 2706,  4105 

Chrome  Yellow 2705,  4104 

Chromic  Acid £945,  3946 

Chromium,  Oxide  of 2701 

Chrysolite,  Imitation 2437 

Churns,  to  keep,  from  frothing. 6286 

Chutney,  Bengal 1762 

Cider,  Antiferments  for 763,  &c. 

Cider  Barrels,  to  cleanse 841 

Cider  Champagne 844,  &c. 

Cider,  Rules  for  Making 836,  &c. 

Cider,  to  bottle 843 

Cider,  to  can 840 

Cider,  to  clarify 842,  853 

Cider,  to  fine 747 

Cider,  to  imitate 847,  <to. 

Cider,  to  keep,  sweet 852 

Cider,  to  make 832 

Cider,  to  prepare  Casks  for 839 

Cider,  to  preserve 835 

Cider  Vinegar 1740 

Cider  Wine 732 

Cigars,  Anodyne 5133 

Cigars,  Anti-choleraic 1350 

Cigars,  Disinfecting 1350 

Cigars  for  Hoarseness. .  .5617,  5619 
Cigars  for  Pulmonary  Consump- 
tion   5616 

Cigars,  to  scent 1350 

Cimicifuga  Racemosa,  Fluid  Ex- 
tract of 4575 

Cimicifuga  Racemosa,  Tincture 

of 4514 

Cinchona,  Fluid  Extract  of 4605 

Cinchona,  Tincture  of 4487,  4544 

Cinchona,  Wine  of 4710 

Cinchonine  or  Cinchonia 4002 

Cinchonine,  Test  for,  in  Quinine  4029 

Cinnabar 2682 

Cinnamon-Brown  Dye  for  Cot- 
tons  •. 144 

Cinnamon,  Essence  of 971 

Cinnamon,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Cinnamon,  Essential  Oil  of,  Test 

for 1481 

Cinnamon,  Extract  of. 1036 

Cinnamon,  Oil  of 1227 

Cinnamon  Pomade 1262 

Cinnamon  Soap 573 

Cinnamon  Syrup 1379 

Cinnamon  Water 4756 

Circles,  Properties  of 6126 

Circles,  Segments  of,  Area  of. .  5991 

Circles,  Sectors  of,  Area  of 5992 

Circles,  to  find  the  Area  of  5987, 5988 

Cisterns,  Capacity  of 6012 

Cisterns,  Cement  for  lining 2181 

Cisterns,  to  make 6358 

Cisterns,  to  purify  Water  in..  1701 
1712 

Citrates 3932 

Citrate  of  Bismuth,  Solution  of.  4812 
Citrate  of  Bismuth  and  Ammo- 
nia, Solution  of 4814 

Citrate  of  Bismuth,  Preparation 

of 4813 

Citrate  of  Iron 4160 

Citrate  of  Iron,  Solution  of 4815 

Citrate  of  Magnesia,  Efferves- 
cing  4809,  &.O. 

Citrate  of  Magnesia,   Solution 

of 4805 

Citrate  of  Potassa,  Solution  of.  4808 

Citric  Acid 3932 

Citric  Acid,  Syrup  of 4680 

Citric  Acid,  Tests  for 3934 

Citric  Acid,  to  detect  Tartaric 

Acid  in 3931 

Citric  Acid,  to  obtain 3933 

Citrine  Ointment 4947 

Civet,  Essence  of 972 

Civet,  Oil  of 1228 

Claret  Punch 921 

Claret-Red  Dye  for  Woolens.  ..198 
308 

Claret  Stains,  to  remove 369 

Claret  Syrup 1423 

Claret,  to  flavor,  with  Amber- 
gris   964 

Clarification 17 


CLA — COL 


COL — CON 


CON — COP 


573 


Clarifying,  see  ARTICLE  to  be 
clarified 

Clay  for  Grafting 1882 

Clay  for  Modeling 6321 

Cleaning,  &c.,  General  Receipts 

for 337,  &.O. 

Cleaning  or  Cleansing,  Bee  AR- 
TICLE to  be  cleaned 

Cleansing  in  Brewing 862 

Cleveland's  Tooth  Wash 1331 

Clinker,  to  remove,  from  Fire- 

Brick 6241 

Cloaks,  to  waterproof 1554 

Close's  Indestructible  Ink 2528 

Cloth,  Cements  for  joining 2245 

Cloth,  Cotton,  to  bleach 125 

Cloth,  Cotton,  to  prepare  for 

dyeing 124 

Cloth,  Emery 1035 

Cloth,  Glass 1933 

Cloth  Measure 5994 

Cloth,  Printed,  to  clean 452 

Cloth,  Stone 1934 

Cloth,  to  cement,  to  Metal 2233 

Cloth,  to  paste,  to  Wood 2275 

Cloth,  to  raise  the  Nap  on 401 

Cloth,  to  render,  Waterproof . .  1553 

6313 

Clothes  Pins  and  Lines,  to  pre- 
serve  6394 

Clothes,  to  fold,  after  drying. . .  502 

Clothes,  to  iron 503 

Clothes,  to  render,  Waterproof  1553 

Clothes,  Woolen,  to  clean 442 

Clothes,  Woolen,  to  preserve 

from  Moth 654 

Clove-Hitch  Knot,  to  tie  a 6264 

Clover,  Artificial  Manure  for  .  1826 

Cloves,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Cloves,  Essential  Oil  of,  Test  for  1485 

Cloves,  Fluid  Extract  of 4579 

Cloves,  Oil  of 1227 

Glutton's  Febrifuge  Spirit 5194 

Glutton's  Febrifuge  Tincture  .  .5195 
Coal  Oil,  Crude,  see  PETROLECM. 
Coal  Oil,  Refined,  see  KEROSENE. 

Coal  Tar,  Charcoal  from 1731 

Coathupe's  Ink 2484 

Cobalt 4249 

Cobalt,  Acetate  of 4253 

Cobalt  Blue 2690 

Cobalt,  Carbonate  of 4252 

Cobalt,  Chloride  of 4251 

Cobalt,  Nitrate  of 4250 

Cobalt,  Peroxide  of 4250 

Cobalt,  to  electroplate  with 3766 

Cochineal,  Adulteration  of  ...  .2680 
Cochineal  Dyes  for  Woolens  246,  <fcc. 
Cochineal  Liquid  Coloring  2623,  &c. 

Cochineal  Liquor 106 

Cochineal  Paste 106 

Cochrane's  Cough  Medicine... 5363 
Cockroaches,  to  drive  away...  1923 
Cockroaches,  to  exterminate  ..1901 

Cocktail,  Bottled 924 

Cocoa-NutOil 527 

Cocoa-Nut  Oil  Soap 542,  593 

Codeine,  or  Codeia 4000 

Cod-Liver  Oil,  Emulsion  of. . .  .5437 

Cod-Liver  Oil  Ointment 4975 

Cod-Liver  Oil,  to  dissolve  Iod- 
ine in ....  4328 

Coffee  Cream-Syrup 1433 

Coffee  Flavoring  for  Liquors. .  673 

Coffee,  French,  to  make 6287 

Coffee  Syrup  for  Cordials 1378 

Coffee  Syrup  for  Soda  Water  .1418 

Coffee,  Test  for  Chicory  in 4373 

Cognac  Bitters,  French 815 

.Cognac  Brandy,  Imitation 679 

Cognac,  Essence  of 675 

Cognac  Oil 1408 

Cognac  Oil,  Test  for 677 

Cohobation  in  Distilling 1466 

Coins,  Ancient  Roman 6057 

Coins,  Copper,  to  preserve 6238 

Coins,  Old,  to  develop  Inscrip- 
tions on 6237 

Coins,  to  clean 3239 

Coins,  to  keep  from  Tarnishing  3225 
Coins,  to  take  Moulds  of.  .3672,  &c. 

Colchicine 4008 

Colchicum,  Fluid  Extract  of. .  .4576 


Colchicum,  Opiated  Wine  of. .  .5389 

Colchicum,  Tincture  of 4549 

Colcothar 2703,  4154 

Cold,  to  cure  a 5597 

Cold  Cream 1125,  &c. 

Cold  Feet,  Remedy  for,  at  Night  5831 

Cold  in  the  Head,  to  cure 5585 

Cold  with  Cough,  to  cure 5605 

Cold  Silvering 3(ill 

Colepress's  Wine 728 

Colic,   Lead  or  Painters',  to 

cure 5692,5693 

Collier's  Wine  of  Quinine 5199 

Collin's  Disinfecting  Powder.  .1699 

Collodion,  Cantharidal 4742 

Collodion,  Flesh  Colored 1168 

Collodion  for  the  Skin 1167 

Collodion,  Glyeerinated 1169 

Collodion,  Gun  Cotton  for 4743 

Collodion,  Morphia 4745 

Collodion,  Photographic 3149 

Collodion  Pictures,  to  clean  off  3167 

Collodion  Plastic  Material 2204 

Collodion,  Styptic 5559,  5562 

Collodion,  to  prepare 4744 

Collodion  Varnish 2922 

Collodion  Varnish,  for  Photo- 
graphy  3162 

Colocynth  4554 

Cologne,  Essence  of 950 

Cologne  Tooth-Wash 1329 

Cologne  Water 976,  &.o. 

Cologne  Water,  Ammoniated  .  1096 
Cologne  Water,  Concentrated.  950 

Colored  Amandine 1120 

Colored  Bronzing  for  Brass. . .  .3783 
3797,  &c. 

Colored  Cements 2182,   &c. 

Colored  Fires 2065,  &c. 

Colored  Fires  for  Illuminations  2066 

2106 
Colored  Fires  for  Indoors. 2119,  &c. 

Colored  Fires  for  Stars 2067 

Colored  Flames 2128 

Colored  Flashes,  Paper  for  mak- 
ing  2125 

Colored  Lights 2112 

Colored  Muslins,  to  wash 486 

Colored  Stars 2064 

Coloring  for  Curacoa 800 

Coloring  for  Fats 1257 

Coloring  for  the  Hair 1215 

Coloring,  see  ARTICLE  to  be  col- 
ored. 

Colors,  Aniline 2552,  &c. 

Colors,  Effect  of  Acids  and  Alka- 
lies on 361 

Colors,  Improved  Vehicles  for. 2724 

Colors,  Liquid 2614,  &c. 

Colors  of  Fabrics,  to  preserve. 487. 
491 

Colors,  Substantive 93 

Colors,  to  restore,  by  Reagents..  362 
Colors  used  for  Marbling  Books  3102 
Colpin's  India-Rubber  Varnish  2952 

Colt's  Foot,  Essence  of 4612 

Columbo,  Fluid  Extract  of 4576 

Columbo,  Tincture  of 4550 

Combs,  to  clean 416 

Complexion,  Cosmetics  for  the.  1116 

Composite  Soap 545 

Composition  for  Moulds 3084 

Composition  for  Ornaments  ...2202 
6234. 

Composition  for  Rockets 2054 

Composition  for  Washing 6306 

Composition  for  Welding. 3523,  &c. 
Composition  for  Wounds  on 

Trees 1877, 1879 

Composition  Powder  for  Dys- 
pepsia  5321 

Composts  for  the  Soil 1821 

Compound  Tinctures,  see  TINC- 

TUKES. 

Concentrated  Infusions 38 

Concentration 8 

Concrete 2205 

Concrete  for  Floors  and  Walks  2206 

Condensed  Milk 1597,  5470 

Condy's  Fluid 5440 

Condy 's  Solution 1701 

Congress  Water,  Aerated 4440 

Congreve  Matches 2146 


Conine  orConia 4018 

Conium,  Fluid  Extract  of 4578 

Conium,  Oil  of 4752 

Conium,  Tincture  of 4489 

Conkkn's  Salve 5287 

Constipation,  Pills  for 5454,  &c. 

Consumption,  Inhalation  for  ..5613 

5616 

Consumption,  Pulmonary,  Ci- 
gars for 5616 

Consumption,  Remedy  for  Night- 
sweats  in 5787 

Consumption,  Treatment  of 5612 

Cooley's  Black  Ink 2464 

Cooley's  Corn  Plaster 5060 

Cooley's  Tests  for  Olive  Oil 1500 

Cooley's  Waterproofing  for 

Cloth 1555 

Copahine-Mege 5366 

Copaiba  and  Tar,  Capsules  of.  .5417 
Copaiba,  Balsam  of,  Factitious  5104 
Copaiba,  Balsam  of,  Reduced.  .5106 
Copaiba,  Balsam  of,  Test  for  .  .5107 

Copaiba  and  Pepsine  Pills 5457 

Copaiba,  Capsules  of 5416 

Copaiba  Mixture 5263,  5735 

Copaiba  Pills 4918 

Copaiba  Soluble  in  Water "4795 

Copaiba,  Solution  of,  Specific.  .4801 

Copal  Oil- Varnish 2876 

Copal  Picture  Varnish 2907 

Copal  Spirit  Varnish 2905,  2907 

Copal,  to  dissolve,  in  Spirit 2904 

Copper 3240 

Copper,  Acetate  of 4088,  4089 

Copper,  Alloys  of... 3348,  3409,  «kc., 

3439,  3440. 
Copper,  Alloys  of,  for  Dentists. 3437 

Copper  Amalgam 3543 

Copper,  Ammonio-sulphate  of.  4090 

Copper,  Arsenite  of 2711 

Copper,  Cement  for 2172 

Copper,  Chloride  of 4097 

Copper,  Cyanide  of 3753 

Copper  Enamel 2400 

Copper,  Etching  Fluid  for 2961 

Copper,  Feather-Shot 3249 

Copper,  Ferrocyanide  of 4098 

Copper,  Flux  for  Reducing 3470 

Copper,  Flux  for  Welding 3531 

Copper,  Fulminating. 2135 

Copper  Moulds  for  Electrotyp- 

ing 367"2,  3680 

Copper  Moulds,  to  coat  .   . 3673 

Copper,  Nitrate  of 4091 

Copper,  Oxides  of. .  .4092,  4094,  4095 

Copper,  Prussiate  of 4098 

Copper,  Sheet,  Weight  of 6139 

Copper,  Solder  for 3498,  3517 

Copper  Solution  for  Electrotyp- 

ing 3661 

Copper  Stains,  to  remove,  from 

Marble 516 

Copper,  Sulphate  of 4096 

Copper,  Sulphite  of 4093 

Copper,  Test  for,  in  Compounds  3241 
Copper,  Tests  for,  in  Solutions  .4099 

4375. 
Copper,  to  bronze. .  .3772,  3787,  3797 

Copper,  to  clean 3252,  3389 

Copper,  to  coat  Figures  with  . .  3687 
Copper,  to  coat  Metals  with  3635,  &c. 
Copper,  to  coat  Cast  Iron  with.  3635 

Copper,  to  coat  Iron  with 3756 

Copper,  to  coat,  with  Brass 3633 

3634. 

Copper,  to  coat,  with  Silver.  ..3607 
3609. 

Copper,  to  coat,  with  Tin 3644 

Copper,  to  coat,  with  Zinc 3651 

Copper,  to  coat  Zinc  with 3655 

Copper,  to  color 3188,  3313 

Copper,  to  platinize 3658 

Copper,  to  prevent  Corrosion 

of 3251 

Copper,  to  protect 3765 

Copper,  to  reduce,  to  Powder.  .3247 
Copper,  to  separate,  from  Al- 
loys  3246 

Copper,  to  separate  Lead  from  3242 

Copper,  to  separate  Silver  from  3245 

Copper,  to  separate  Tin  from . .  3244 

I  Copper,  to  separate  Zinc  from. 3243 


574:      COP— cotr 


con — cue 


Copper,  to  weld 3250   Congh,  Remedies  for .5598,  A-c.  j 

Copper  White 3414,  &o.    Cough  Syrup 5465,  5603 

Copperas 4146  i  Cough  Tincture 5234 

Convine  see  AUTiCLEto  be  copied.     Cough,  to  relieve 5590 

Copying  Ink 2520   Cough,  Whooping,  see  WHOOP- 

CoDTtnff  Paper 1926,  1948       ING  COUGH. 

Conil  Irtirfcial 6173  !  Cough  with  Cold,  to  cure 5605 

Coral  Dentifrice 1299  ;  Counterfeit  Bank  of  England 

Coralline  Aniline  Dye 2585  |     Notes,  to  detect 6396 

Coralline  Innoxious 2588  '  Counterfeit  Gold 3397 

Coralline  Solvent  for 2587  |  Counter-irritants 5082 

Cord-Wood  Measure 5397   Court  Plaster 5058 

Cordage,  to  Kyanize 1681    CowslipPoinade 1263 

Cordial,  Blackberry 5658  '•  Coxe's  Hive  Syrup 5273 

Cordial  Diarrhrea 5658   Cracked-Hoof,  Ointment  for ...  5002 

Cordial!  Dysentery 5375  |  Crackled  Sugar 1368 

Cordial,  Nerve 5215  j  Cramps,  Cure  for 5696 

Cordials,  Aroma  of 812   Cranesbill,  Fluid  Extract  of 4577 


Cordials,  Filter  Bags  for 811 

Cordials,  Finings  for 807,  &c. 

Cordials,  Syrups  for 1369 

Cordials,  to  clarify 704 

Cordials,  to  make 767 

Cordials,  to  make,  by  Distilla- 
tion  796 

Coriander,  Extract  of 1041 

Coriander,  Tincture  of 1014 

Cork  to  remove  a,  inside  a  Bot- 
tle.  6227 

Corking  Bottles,  Directions  for  930 

Corks,  Cement  for  sealing 52238 

Corks,  to  tie  down 930 

Corkscrew,  Substitute  for  a 6226 

Corn,  to  measure,  in  the  Crib.. 6128 

Corn  Plaster 5060 

Cornelian,  Imitation 2427,  &c. 

Cornices,  Stuff  for  making 2200 

Cornish  Flux 3462,  3465 

Corns 5847 

Corns,  Caustic  for 5079 

Corns,  Lotion  for 5329 


Corn  Powder 5825 


Corns,  Remedies  for 5849,  <tc. 

Corns,  Soft,  to  cure 5850 

Corns,  to  prevent £848 

Corrosion,  to  prevent,  in  Metals  3251 

Corrosive  Liquids,  to  filter 3836 

Corrosive  Sublimate 4139 

Corrosive  Sublimate,  Antidotes 

for 5902,  5903 

Corrosive  Sublimate  Antiseptic 

Solution 1664 

Corvisart's  Elixir  of  Pcpsine. .  .4719 
Corvisart's  Syrup  of  Pepsine..4G84 

Cosmetic  Balsam  of  Honey 1121 

Cosmetic  Gloves 1176 

Cosmetic  Solution  of  Potassa.  .4856 
Cosmetics  for  the  Hair,  Caution 

about 1286 

Cosmetics  for  the  Skin,  &c.  1116,  &c. 
Cottereau's  Odpntalgic  Essence  5876 
Cottereau's  Wine  of  Cinchonia  4710 
Cotton,  Aniline  Dyes  for.  .2569,  &.c. 
Cotton,  Difficulty  in  Dyeing, 

with  Aniline 2570 

Cotton,  Dyes  for,  see  COLOII  OF 

DYE. 
Cotton,  Remarks  on  Dyeing. . .  321 

Cotton,  to  bleach 1715,  1717 

Cotton,  to  detect,  in  Mixed  Fab- 
rics  i295,  &c. 

Cotton,  to  remove  Mildew  from  128 

Cotton,  to  silver 3627 

Cotton  Cloth,  to  bleach 125 

Cotton  Cloth,  to  prepare,  for  Dye- 
ing    124 

Cotton  Goods,  Starcli  for 497 

Cotton  Goods,  to  dve 131,  &c. 

Cotton  Goods,  to  fix  the  Colors 

of 491 

Cotton  Goods,  to  remove  Stains 

from 126,  127 

Cotton-Seed  Oil,  to  bleach 1510 

Cotton  Yarn,  to  bleach 123 

Cotton  Tarn,   to   prepare,  for 

Dyeing 122 

Cough  Balsam 5442 

Cough  Lozenges 5346 

Couch  Medicine 5233,  5363 

Cough  Mixture 5262, 5268,  5607,  5610 
561V. 

Cough  Pill  5598 

Cough  Plaster 5050 


Crape,  Black,  to  renovate 462 

Crape,  China,  to  wash 465 

Crayon  Drawings,  to  fix ld61 

Crayons,  Charcoal 1971 

Crayons,  Composition  for 1970 

Crayons,  Lithographic 1958 

Cream  Cheese 1594 

Cream,  Cold 1125,  &c. 

Cream,  Glycerine 1129 

Cream  of  Tartar 4197 

Cream,  Rose  Glycerine 1130 

Cream,  Shaving 602,  604,  607 

Cream,  Snow 1131 

Cream  Syrup,  Imitation 1430 

Cream  Syrups  for  Soda  Water.  1425 

Cream,  to  make,  rise 6284 

Creases  in  Drawings,   &c.,  to 

flatten 1963 

Creatine 4013 

Creatinine 4013 

Crfime  deCathay 1128 

Creme  do  Pistache 1139 

Creme  de  Psych6 1137 


Cremnitz  White ....  2G09 


Creosote,  Antiseptic  Solution  of  1C52 
1660. 

Creosote  Ointment 4953, 5404 

Creosote,  to  preserve  Meats,  &c., 


with. 


.1C4C 


Creosote,  to  test 1G47 

Cress  Vinegar 1772 

Crickets,  to  drive  away 1923 

Crimson  Aniline  Dye 2581 

Crimson  Dye  for  Cottons 156 

Crimson  Dye  for  Silks 246,  251 


Crimson  Dye  for  Woolens.  .195,  309 

Crimson  Fire 2075,  2076 

Crimson  Hair  Oil 1233 

Crimson  Stain  for  Marble 2039 

Crimson  Stain  for  Wood 2859 

Crockery,  to  mend 2157 

Crocus,  or  Indian  Red 2718 

Crocus  Bronzing 3773 

Crocus  Martis 4154 

Croton  Bugs,  to  destroy 1902 

Croton  Oil  Ointment. 5762 

Croton  Oil,  Solution  of 5413 

Croup,  Remedy  for 5627 

Croup,  Symptoms  of 5625 

Croup,  to  prevent  Return  of 5628 

Croup,  Treatment  of 5626 

Crown  Glass 2343 

Crucibles,  Lute  for 2268 

Crude  Coal  Oil,  see  PETROLEUM. 
Crust  in  Kettles,  to  prevent . .  .6382 

Crysotype  Paper 3175 

Crystal  Glass 2347,  2352 

Crystal  Spirit  Varnish 2910 

Crystal,  to  silver 3631 

Crystalline  Window  Glass 2365 

Crystallization 9 

Crystallized  Pomade 1274 

Cuba  Honey 1573 

Cubebs,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Cubebs,  Fluid  Extract  of 4579 

Cubebs,  Tincture  of 4551 

Cubic  Feet  reduced  to  Inches  .5999 

Cubic  or  Solid  Measure 5996 

Cubic  Measure  in  Metres 5998 

Cucumber  Ointment 5000 

Cucumber  Plants,  to  kill  Thrips 

on 1858 

Cucumber  Seeds,  to  clean 1864 

Cucumber  Seeds,  to  prove 1863 

Cucumbers,  Pickled 1793 


C0C — DEC 

Cucumbers,  to  keep  fresh  1872 

C  ullet 2351 

Culm .' 3314 

Cumming's  Paregoric 4528 

Cupellation,  Assay  by 3191,  3206 

Cuprum  Aluminatum 5296 

Cura9oa 771,  777,  799 

Curapoa,  Coloring  for 800 

Curapoa  d'Hollande 776 

Curd  Cement 2160 

Curd,  to  collect,  for  Cheese 1593 

Cures,  see  DISEASE  to  be  cured. 
Curing,  see  AHTICLE  to  be  cured. 

Curious  Essence 947 

Curling  Liquids  for  the  Hair. .  1191 

Currant  Wine 728,  734 

Currant,  Cherry  and  Raspberry 

Wine 728 

Currant  and  Gooseberry  Wine   728 

Curry  Powder,  Indian 1760 

Curry  Vinegar 1778 

Curtains,  Damask,  to  clean 450 

Cut  Flowers,  to  preserve 1835 

Cutaneous  Affections,  to  allay 

Irritation  in 5491 

Cutlery,  Caution  in  Grinding.. 6253 

Cutlery,  to  grind 6252 

Cuts,  Artificial  Skin  for 5501 

Cuts,  Treatment  of 5500 

Cuts,  Waterproof  Covering  for  5502 
Cuttings  of  Plants,  to  insert . .  .1832 
Cuttings  of  Plants,  to  manage  .  1831 

Cyamelide 3952 

Cyanates 3952 

Cyanatc  of  Ammonia 4323 

Cyanic  Acid 3952 

Cyanic  Acid,  to  obtain 3953 

Cyanides,  Metallic 3947 

Cyanide  of  Brass  Solution  3759, 3768 

Cyanide  of  Copper 3753 

Cyanide  of  Copper,  Solution  of.  3754 

3755 

Cyanide  of  Gold > 3727 

Cyanide  of  Potassium 4202 

Cyanide  of  Potassium,  Caution 

against 1160 

Cyanide  of  Potassium,   Lotion 

of 1158 

Cyanide  of  Potassium,  Test  for 

Free,  in  Solutions 3703 

Cyanide  of  Potassium,  Ulcers 

caused  bv,  to  cure 5918 

Cyanide  ofSilver 3697 

Cyanide  of  Silver,  to  dissolve ..  3699 
Cyanide  of  Silver  and  Potas- 
sium   3698 

Cyanide  of  Zinc 3753,  4115 

Cyanide  of  Zinc,  Solution  of.  ..3754 

Cyanotype  Paper 3174 

Cyanurcts,  see  CYANIDES. 
Cylinders,  Cubical  Contents  of  6001 
Cymbals 3446 

Da  Costa's  Constipation  Pills.  .5455 

Daffy's  Elixir 5217 

Dahlia  Cuttings,  to  manage. .  .1831 

Dahlia  Roots,  to  preserve 1888 

Dolby's  Carminative 5172 

Dale's  Process  for  Oxalic  Acid  3902 

Damask  Curtains,  to  clean 450 

Dandelion  Alterative 5164 

Dandelion,  Infusion  of 5701 

Dandelion  Pills 5700 

Dandelions,  to  kill 1867 

Dark  Green  Dye  for  Cottsns. . .  163 

Dauyergn6's  Tar  Pomade 1281 

Davidson's  mode  of  deodoriz- 
ing Putrid  Whale  Oil 1488 

Davis'  Neutralizing  Cordial . .  .5424 

Davis'  Pain  Killer 5410 

Dawson's  Patent  Soap 545 

Day  &  Martin's  Blacking 3101 

Day,  to  find  the  Length  of  the.  .6153 
Deafness,  Remedies  for  ..5809,  5814 

Debility,  Treatment  of 5780 

Decalcomine  Pictures,  to  ap- 
ply  ,..6195 

Decantation 10 

Decanters,  to  clean 430 

Decarbonization 3843 

Decayed  Wine,  to  remedy 752 

Decimal  Approximations  for 
Calculations 6119 


DEC — DIS 


DIS — DRI 


DRI — EAR 


575 


Decimal  Equivalents  of  Feet, 

Inches,  &c 5979,  5985 

Decimal  "Weights,  <fcc.,  see  MET- 
KICAL  WEIGHTS. 

Decoction,  Rheumatic 5540 

Decoctions,  to  prepare 34 

Decoloration 3844 

Decoloring,  sec  AUTICLK  to  be 

decolored. 

Decomposing  Cell  for  Electro- 
typing 3664 

Decomposition  in  "Wines,  Rem- 
edy for 756 

Decomposition  in  "Wines,  Test 

for 755 

Defecation 3845 

Deflagration 11 

Degrees  of  Sugar-Boiling  for 

Candies 1368 

Delamotte's  Golden  Drops 5210 

De  la  Rue's  Patent  Parchment  1965 
Delioux's  Wine  for  Rheuma- 
tism, &c 5408 

Deliquescence 22,  3842 

Dennis'  Antispasmodic  Tinc- 
ture  5270 

Density  of  Syrups,  to  determine 
the  1363 

Dentifrices i288,  &.C.,  5469 

Dentists'  Alloys 3435,  &c. 

Dentists'  Amalgams 3549,  &c. 

Deodorizing,  see  ARTICLE  to  be 
deodorized. 

Depilatories 1219,  &c. 

Depilatories,  Caution  in  Apply- 
ing  1225 

Depilatories,  to  apply 1223,  1224 

Derbyshire  Spar,  Cement  for  .  .2218 
Derbyshire's  Sea-Sickness  Pre- 
ventive   5235 

De  Rheims'  Healing  Paper 5059 

Deschamp's  Dentifrice 1296 

Desehamp's  Fuligokali  Oint- 
ment   5380 

Deschamp's  Pastils  for  the 

Breath 5405 

Deschamp's  Plaster 5045 

Desiccation 12,  3849 

De  Svlvestre's  Dextrino  Var- 
nish  2927 

Detergents 5504 

Detersive  Dentifrice 1289 

Devil  Plaster 5278 

Dewberry,  Tincture  of 4497 

De  wee's  Carminative 5250 

De  wee's  Tincture  of  Guaiacum5441 

Dextrine 4345 

Dextrine,  to  purify 2925 

Dextrine  Varnish 2927 

Distillation 13 

Diachylon  Plaster 5043 

Diamond  Paste 21552,  2420,  &c. 

Diamond  Tooth  Cement 5879 

Diamond  Weights 5943 

Diamonds,  Imitation 2352 

Diamonds,  Imitation,  to  make, 

brilliant 2459 

Diamonds,  Imitation  Yellow  ..2436 

Diamonds,  Parisian 2444 

Diamonds,  to  test 4392 

Diaphoretics 5134 

Diarrhoea,  Bilious,  Cure  for 5660 

Diarrhoea  in  Infants 5661 

Diarrhoea,  Remedies  for  .  .5653,  <fec. 

Diarrhea,  Treatment  of 5652 

Dick's  Dyspepsia  Cure 5681 

Dick's  Dyspepsia  Pills 5682 

Diekson's  Cochineal  Coloring.  .2624 
Dieterich's  Mode  of  Bleaching 

Oils 1508 

Digestion 40 

Digestion,  Artificial 5680 

Digestive  Candy 5260 

Digitalis,  Fluid  Extract  of. ...  .4574 

Digitalis,  Tincture  of 4490 

Dilute  Alcohol,  Officinal 1437 

Dinneford's  Fluid  Magnesia. .  .4434 

Dinner  Pills 5181 

Dip  Candles,  to  make 634 

Diphtheria,  Remedies  for  5637,  &c. 

Diphtheria,  Treatment  of 5636 

Diplomas,  Wax  for 2327 

Disease,  Cure  of,  by  Abstinence  5894  \ 


Disinfectants 1692,  &c. 

Disinfectants  for  Sick  Cham- 
bers   1695 

Disinfectants  for  Slaughter- 

Houses 1694 

Disinfectants  for  Stables 1694 

Disinfecting  Lotion 4852 

Displacement,  Tinctures  by 41 

Distillation  of  Cordials 796 

Distillation  of  Essential  Oils . . .  1465 
Distillation  of  New  England 

Rum 931,  &c. 

Distillation  of  Perfumed  Wa- 
ters  1073 

Distillation  of  Whiskey 931,  &c, 

Distillation  with  or  without  a 

Heater 937 

Distilled  Aromatic  Spirits 941 

Distilled  Perfumed  Waters ....  1070 
Distilled  Perfumed  Waters,  Di- 
rections for 1073 

Distilled  Perfumed  Waters, 

Practical  Suggestions  for 1076 

Distilled  Perfumed  Waters, 

Soubeiran's  Apparatus  for. .  .1077 
Distilled  Perfumed  Waters,  to 

prevent,  from  Souring 1075 

Distilled  Perfumed  Waters,  to 
remove  the  Burnt  Smell  from  1074 

Distilled  Vinegar 1746 

Distilled  Water 4768 

Ditchett's  Remedy  for  Piles. .  .5255 

Diuretics 5146,  <fcc. 

Diuretic  Drops 5147,  531 1 

Diuretic  Infusion 5148 

Diuretic  Pills 4910,  5149 

Docks,  to  kill 1867 

Doebereiner's  Self-igniting 

Lamp 6389 

Doers,  to  banish  Fleas  from 1913 

Dogs,  White,  to  wash 6218 

Dogwood,  Tincture  of. 4553 

Dolomite 4241 

Domestic  Brandy,  Imitation. . .  678 
Domestic  Soap  Receipts... 548,  <kc. 
Donovan's  Mixture  of  Cyanide 

of  Potassium 5268 

Donovan's  Solution  of  Arsenic 

and  Mercury 4777 

Door-Plates,  to  clean 512 

Doors,  to  prevent,  from  Creak- 
ing   C215 

Doppel  Kummel 7G9.  6292 

Doses,  Strength  of,  for  Different 

Ages 5965 

Doualt  Wieland's  Paste  for 

Gems 2425 

Dove-Colored  Family  Dyo 331 

Dover's  Powder 5176 

Dover's  Powder,  Camphorated  5423 
Dover's  Rheumatic  Powder  . .  .5531 

Dover's  Tincture 4543 

Dowler's  Tape- Worm  Remedy. 5650 

Drab  Dye  for  Cottons 177,  &c. 

Drab  Dye  for  Cotton,  Silk  and 

Wool 293 

Drab  Dye  for  Silks 272,  310 

Drab  Dye  for  Woolens. 213,  215, 230 

Drain,  to,  Level  Land 1891 

Draught,  Black 5212 

Drawing-Crayons,  Composition 

for 1970 

Drawing-Ink 2531 

Drawing-Paper,  Sizes  of 6131 

Drawing-Paper,  to  take  out 

Creases  in 1963 

Drawings,  Chalk,  to  fix 1960 

Drawings,  Crayon,  to  fix 19G1 

Drawings,  Pencil,  to  fix 1959 

Drawings,  Pencil,  &c.,  to  pro- 
tect  6363 

Drawings,  to  copy 3159 

Drawings,  to  varnish 2965 

Drawings,  Varnish  for 2924 

Drayton's  Method  of  Silvering 

on  Glass 3616 

Dresses,  Black,  to  remove  Stains 

from 470 

Dresses,  Colored,  to  wash 485 

Dresses,  Linen,  &c.,  to  wash  .  .6412 

Dresses,  to  clean 460 

Drills,  Lubricator  for  ...  .2366,  6273 
Drills,  to  temper 3286 


Drinking  to  Excess,  Tonic  after  5818 

Drops,  Carminative 5689 

Drops,  Diuretic 5147,  5311 

Drops,  Dutch 5340 

Drops,  French,  for  Scouring. . .  354 

Drops,  Golden 5210 

Drops,  Haerlem 5342 

Drops,  Hot 5179 

Drops,  Hot,  for  Beer 891 

Drops,  Jesuits' 5091,  5338 

Drops,  Pectoral 5193 

Drops,  Prince  Rupert's 2373 

Drops,  Red 5376,  5411  i 

Drops,  Sweating 5142 

Dropsy,  Remedy  for 5G97, 5754 

Drowned  Persons,  apparently, 

to  restore 5893 

Druggists'  Show  Colors. .  .2G48,  &c. 
Druggists'  Show  Colors,  to  keep 

from  freezing 2672 

Drummond  Light,  the 6388 

Drunkenness,  Habitual,  to  cure  5817 

Dry,  Chemically,  to 3842 

Dry  Measure 5970 

Dry  Measure  compared  with 

Imperial 5972  i 

Dry  Measure  compared  with 

Metrical 5971 1 

Dry  Measure,  Imperial 6037 

Dry  Measure,  Imperial,  com- 
pared with  Litres . . ' 60401 

Dry  Measure,  Imperial,  com- 
pared with  TJ.  States 60381 

Drv  Rot,  to  preserve  Timber 

from 1G79 

Dry  Salting  of  Meat 1602 

Dryers  for  Paints 2735,  <fec. 

Drying,  Chemical .3842 

Drying,  Loss  of  Substances  in .  6149 

Drying  Oils 2726,  &c. 

Dubbing  for  Leather 3078 

Duchemin's   Enamel 2402 

Ductilitv  of  Metals 3355 

Dullo's  Platinized  Glass 3656 

Dumoulin's  Liquid  Glue 2285 

Dupasquier's  Iodide  of  Iron 

Water 4478 

Dupuytren's  Pills 5258 

Dupuytren's  Pomade 1282 

Durand's  Syrup  of  Phosphate  of 

Lime 4G36 

Durockereau's  Cologne  Water  980 

Dutch  Areometers 6160,  6163 

Dutch  Drops 5342 

Dutch  Metal 3348 

Dutch  Metal,  to  gild  with 3576 

Dutch  Weights  and  Measures. 6090 
Dyes,  see  ARTICLE  to  bo  dyed 
Dyes,  Aniline-  ..332,  &.c.,  2552,  <fcc. 
Dyes,  Aniline,  Directions  for 

using 2563 

Dyes,  Aniline,  Mordants  for. .  .2567 
Dyes,  Aniline,  Test  for  Sugar 

in 2561 

Dyes,  Aniline,  to  distinguish  ..2564 

Dyes,  Aniline,  to  remove 2565 

Dyes,  Aniline,  to  remove  Sugar 

from 2562 

Dye-Bath 93 

Dye -Woods 94 

Dye  -Woods,  Properties  of 214 

Dyes,  Chrome,  for  Cottons.  183,  &c. 
Dyes,  Chrome,  for  Woolens  221,  <fcc. 
Dyes  for  the  Hair. . .  1198,  &c.,  6401 

Dyeing,  Art  of 93 

Dyeing,  see  COLOR  OF  DYE. 
Dyeing,  Family  Receipts  for  302,  &c. 
Dyeing,  to  make  Solutions  for. .  121 
Dyeing  Veneers,  Directions  for  2837 
Dyeing  Wood,  Directions  for.  .2824 

Dyers'  Aquafortis 3880 

Dysentery  Cordial,  Patent 5375 

Dysentery,  Remedies  for.  .5676,  &c. 

Dysentery,  Treatment  of 5675 

Dyspepsia,  Remedies  for.  .5680,  &c. 
Dyspepsia,  Treatment  of 5679 

Eagle-Marino  Foil 2457 

Eagle-Marine,  Imitation 2438 

Ear,  Inflammation  of  the,  Remedy 

for 5813 

Ear,  to  destroy  Insects  in  the.  .5816 
Earache,  Cure  for 5811,  <fcc. 


576         EAR — ELK 

Earache,  Treatment  of 5810 

Earth,  &c.,  Weight  of 6134 

Earthenware,  to  clean 434 

East-India  Pomade 1272 

East-Indian  Money 6112 

Easton's  Syrup  of  Phosphate  of 

Iron,  &o 4629 

Eau  Botot 1324 

Eau  d'Ambre  Royalo 99 

Eau  d' Ambrette 995 

Eau  de  Beaut6 1146 

Eau  de  Bouquet 992 

Eau  de  Cologne 976,  &c. 

Ean  de  Cologne,  Ammoniated.  1096 
Eau  de  Cologne,  Concentrated   950 

Eau  de  Heliotrope 1003 

Eau  de  Javelle 4787,  6414 

Eau  de  Labarraque 4788 

Eau  de  Lavande 989 

Eau  de  Lavande,Ammoniacalel097 
Eau  de  Lavande  de  Millefleurs  1000 

Eau  de  Marechale 993 

EaudeMelisse 988 

Eaude  Miel 1006 

Eau  des  Cannes 988 

Eau  Forte,  for  Copper-Engrav- 
ing  2962 

Eau  Magndsienne 4434 

Eau  Medicinale  d'Husson 5208 

Eau  Royale 994 

Ebony  Stain  for  Wood 2844 

Eclectic  Emetic  Powder 5169 

Economical  Perfumes 1026 

Edge-Tools,  see  TOOLS. 

Edulcoration 3847 

Effervescing  Lemonade 906 

Efflorescence 3842 

Eger  Water,  Aerated 4441 

EggNogg 923 

Egg  Powder 1817 

Eggs,  to  distinguish  Good 1631 

Eggs,  to  preserve 1629 

Egyptiacum  Salva 5004 

Egyptain  Marbles  for  Books. .  .3110 

Egy plain  Ointment 5005 

Ehrle's  Styptic  Cotton 5560 

Eisenmann  a  Opiated  Wine  of 

Colchicum 5389 

Elastic  Cement 6391 

Elastic  Glue 2306 

Elastic  Moulding 3G85 

Elder  Wine 728 

Elder-Flower  Vinegar 1771 

Elder-Flower  Water,  to  distill.  1072 
1073 

Elder-Flowers,  Oil  of 4752 

Elecampane,  Fluid  Extract  of.  4579 

Electric  Tissue 6320 

Electrical  Machines,  Amalgam 

for 3539 

Electrical  Machines,  Cement 

for 2170 

Electricity,  to  improve  Wines 

by 726,  6295 

Electro-gilding 3724,  &c. 

Electro-gilding,  Conditions  re- 
quired in 3732 

Electro-gilding  on  Paper,  Silk, 

and  Fibrous  Materials 3738 

Electro-gilding,  Practical  Sug- 
gestions for 3737 

Electro-gilding,  Process  of 3730 

Electro-gilding,  Solutions  for  .  .3728 

3733. 
Electro-gilding,  to  improve  the 

Color  in 3735 

Electro-gilding,  to  regulate  the 

Color  in 3734 

Electro-gilding  with  Red  Gold. 3736 

Electro-plating 3696,  &c. 

Electro-plating  on  Paper,  Silk, 

and  Fibrous  Materials 3738 

Electro-plating,  Solutions  for.  .3697 
Electro-plating,  to  improve  the 

Deposit  in 3710 

Electro-plating,  to  insure  Suc- 
cess in 3711 

Electro-plating,  to  prepare  Arti- 
cles for 3705 

Electro-plating,  to  preserve  a 

Dead  Surface  in 3708 

Electro-plating,  to  remove  the 
White  Surface  after 3709 


ELE — ENA 

Electro-plating  with  Aluminnm3749 

Electro-plating  with  Brass 3752 

3769. 

Electro-plating  with  Cobalt 3766 

Electro-plating  with  German 

Silver 3770 

Electro-plating  with  Nickel  . .  .3762 

3~«3. 

Electro-plating  with  Palladium  3761 
Electro-plating  with  Platinum. 3760 
Electro-plating  with  Silicium..3767 

Electro-plating  with  Tin 3750 

Electro-plating  with  various  Met- 
als  3748,  <fec. 

Electro-plating  with  Zinc 3757 

Electrotyping 3660,  &c. 

Electrotyping  on  Large  Ob- 

iects 3692 

Electrotyping  on  Paper,  Silk, 

and  Fibrous  Materials 3738 

Electrotyping  on  Wood 3695 

Electrotyping,  Single  Cell  Pro- 
cess for 3669 

Electrotyping,  to  prepare  Moulds 

for 3672,  &c. 

Electrotyping  with  a  Battery.  .3671 

Electuaries 5152,  &c. 

Electuaries,  Tooth 1305,  &c. 

Electuary,  Aperient 5153 

Electuary,  Lenitive 5354 

Elements,  Table  of,  and  their 

Chemical  Equivalents 6150 

Elixirs 4697,  &c. 

Elixir,  Anti-catarrh 5447 

Elixir,  Aperient 5446 

Elixir,  Daffy's 5217 

Elixir  de  Gams 4717 

Elixir  of  Bismuth 5420 

Elixir  of  Bromide  of  Ammoni- 
um  5374 

Elixir  of  Bromide  of  Potassium5449 
Elixir  of  Bromide  of  Sodium . . .  5215 

Elixir  of  Calisaya 4698,  4701 

Elixir  of  Calisaya,  Ferrophospho- 

rated 4699,  4700 

Elixir  of  Chloroform 4730 

Elixir  of  Gentian,  Ferrophospho- 

rated 4725 

Elixir  of  Opium 4735 

Elixir  of  Pepsine 4718,  <fcc.,  4724 

Elixir  of  Peruvian  Bark  and 

Iron 4702 

Elixir  of  Taraxacum 4729,  4736 

Elixir  of  Valerianate  of  Ammo- 
nia  4728,  4732,  &c. 

Elixir  of  Vitriol 4731,  4740 

Elixir  of  Wild  Cherry,  Ferra- 

ted 4716 

Elixir,  Pectoral 5445 

Elixir,  Squire's 5228 

Elixir,  Stomachic 5118,  &o. 

Elixir,  Tonic 5407 

Elixir,  Traumatic 5419 

Elixir  V6g6tal  de  la  Grande 

Chartreuse 806,  6291 

Elkington's  Gilding  Liquid 3588 

Elkington's  Patent  Gilding 3587 

Ellerman's  Disinfecting  Fluid ..  1700 

Ellis'e  Essence  of  Beef. 4618 

Eisner's  Zinc  Green 2691 

Elutriation 14 

Embalming 1666 

Embrocations,  see  LINIMENTS. 
Embroidery,  to  prepare  New 

Linen  for 6229 

Emerald  Green 2712 

Emerald,  Imitation. 2360,  2439,  2446 

Emery  Paper  or  Cloth 1935 

Emery,  to  cement,  to  Wood  . . .  6269 
Emery  Wheel  for  Grinding 

Tools 6268 

Emery  Wheels,  Cement  for. ..2246 

Emetics 5167,  &c. 

Emetic  Mixture 5168 

Emetic  Powder,  Eclectic 5169 

Emetic,  Simple 5170 

Ems  Water,  Aerated 4442 

Emulsions 43 

Emulsion  of  Almonds 1140,  1155 

Emulsion  of  Cod-Liver  Oil 5437 

Emulsion  of  Pumpkin-seeds  ...5432 

Enamel,  Photographing  on 3164 

Enamel  Powder  for  the  Skin..  1115 


ENA — ESS 

Enameled  Wood,  to  Polish  ...3015; 

Enameling  on  Wood 3010,  &c. ' 

Enameling,  Rubber  for 3013 1 

Enamels 2378,  <fcc. 

Enfleuragc,  Oils  perfumed  by..  1229 
Enfleurage,  Pomade  perfumed 

by 1263 

Engelhardt's  Method  of  Bleach 

ing  Oils 1509 

Engestroom  Tutania 3451 

Engineers'  Cement 2225 

English  Weights  and  Measures  C031 

Engraving  on  Glass 2376 

Engraving  on  Glass,  Varnish 

for 2959 

Engravings  Sizing  for 2647 


Engravings 
Engravings 
Engravings 
Engravings 


to  bleach 6399 

to  clean,  1972,  &c.,  6400 
to  print,  on  Plaster  1975 
to  remove  Water 


Stains  from 6398 

Engravings,  to  remove  Yellow 

Stains  from 413 

Engravings,  to  take  out  Creases 

in 1963 

Engravings,  to  transfer  on 

Glass 6335 

Engravings,  to  transfer  on 

Paper 1974 

Engravings,  to  transfer  on 

Wood  or  Stone 6336 

Engravings,  to  unroll  and  flat- 
ten  6397 

Epicurean  Sauce 1755 

Epsom  Salts 4241 

Epsom  Salts,  to  disguise  the 

Taste  of 5891 

Epsom  Salts,  to  distinguish  Ox- 
alic Acid  from 3904 

Equivalents,  Chemical,  of  the 

Elements 6150,  6151 

Equivalents  of  Acids 81 

Equivalents  of  Alkalies 80 

Eraser,  Ink t . . .  6393 

Erasmus  Wilson's  Hair- Wash.  11 82 

Ergot,  Fluid  Extract  of 4578 

Ergot,  Tincture  of 4517 

Erica-Cuttings,  to  manage 1831 

Erysipelas,  Lotion  for 5427 

Eschalot  Vinegar 1775 

Eschalot  Wine 1783 

Esprits 998 

Esprit  d'  Ambrette 995 

Esprit  de  Bergamot 999 

Esprit  de  Bouquet 1002 

Esprit  de  Jasmin  Odorant 1004 

Esprit  de  Rose 1001 

Essences 941 ,  &c. 

Essence,  Bitter 4615 

Essence,  Curious 947 

Essence  for  Headache 5229 

Essence  for  Scenting  Pomades  1261 

Essence  for  Toothache 5874,  &c. 

Essence  of  Almonds 943 

Essence  of  Allspice 952 

Essence  of  Ambergris. 959,  963,  964 

Essence  of  Ambrette 968 

Essence  of  Apple,  Artificial . . .  1054 

4303 
Essence  of  Apricot,  Artificial. .  1047 

Essence  of  Beef 4616,  4618 

Essence  of  Bergamot. 969 

Essence  of  Bitter  Almonds 943 

Essence  of  Black-Cherry,  Arti- 
ficial  1050 

Essence  of  Camphor 4611 

Essence  of  Cassia 970 

Essence  of  Chamomile 4613 

Essence  of  Cherry,  Artificial  ..1049 

Essence  of  Cinnamon 971 

Essence  of  Civet 972 

Essence  of  Cognac 675 

Essence  of  Cologne 950 

Essence  of  Coltsfoot 4612 

Essence  of  Fleurs  d'Orange 961 

Essence  of  Frangipanni 948 

Essence  of  Ginger 4619 

Essence  of  Gooseberry,  Artifi- 
cial  1056 

Essence  of  Grape,  Artificial..  .1055 

Essence  of  Guaiacum 4623 

Essence  of  Lavender 973 

Essence  of  Lemon 955 


ESS — KSS 


ESS — EXT  . 


EXT — FEN 


577 


Essence  of  Lemon,  Artificial  ..10."J1 

Essence  of  Life 5337 

Essence  of  Melon,  Artificial...  1059 

Essence  of  Mirbano 4322 

Essence  of  Musk 050,  &.c. 

Essence  of  Musk-Seed 968 

Essence  cf  Myrtle,  Artificial  ..1008 

Essence  of  Neroli 961 

Essence  of  Orange 950 

Essence  of  Orange,  Artificial.. 1053 
Essence  of  Orange-Blossoms . . .  901 

Essence  of  Orange-Flowers 951 

Essence  of  Orange-peel 951 

Essence  of  Orris,  Artificial 949 

Essence  of  Patchouli 9(iO,  &c. 

Essence  of  Peach,  Artificial. .  .1046 

Essence  of  Peach  Kernels 943 

Essence  of  Pear,  Artificial  1052, 4302 

Essence  of  Peppermint 4G10 

Essence  of  Pimento 952 

Essence  of  Pine-apple  953 

Essence  of  Pine-apple,  Artifi- 
cial  1060,  4293 

Essence  of  Pouchapat 966 

Essence  of  Quince,  Artificial.  .4296 

Essence  of  Quinine 4624 

Essence  of  Raspberry,  Artifi- 
cial  1057 

Essence  of  Rennet 1596 

Essence  of  Kondeletia 946,  1062 

Essence  of  Roses 944,  &c. 

Essence  of  Soap 604 

Essence  of  Soup  Herbs 1763 

Essence  of  Spearmint 4614 

Essence  of  Spices 1764 

Essence  of  Spruce 888 

Essence  of  Storax  or  Styrax...  962 
Essence  of  Strawberry,  Artifi- 
cial  1058 

Essence  of  Tuberose 954 

Essence  of  Vanilla 965 

Essence  of  Violets,  Artificial..  949 

Essence,  Plum 1048 

Essence  Royale 960 

Essences,  Medicinal 4(i08,  &c. 

Essences,  Medicinal,  to  color.  .4609 

Essences  of  Flowers 942,  974 

Essences,  Perfumed 940 

Essential  Oils 1404,  &c. 

Essential  Oil  of  Aloes 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Anise 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Apple 1409,  4303 

Essential  Oil  of  Bark 46 

Essential  Oil  of  Bergamot  Pear  4302 
Essential  Oil  of  Bitter  Almondsl465 
Essential  Oil  of  Bitter  Almonds, 

Factitious 4322 

Essential  Oil  of  Bitter  Almonds, 

Non-poisonous 1512 

Essential  Oil  of  Bitter  Almonds, 

Test  for 1479 

Essential  Oil  of  Calamus 1405 

Essential  Oil  of  Caraway 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Cinnamon  . . .  .1465 
Essential  Oil  of  Cinnamon,  Test 

for 1481 

Essential  Oil  of  Cloves 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Cloves,  Test 

for 14P5 

Essential  Oil  of  Fennel 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Horsemint  . . .  .1465 
Essential  Oil  of  Jargonelle  Peor, 

Factitious 1470,  4302 

Essential  Oil  of  Juniper 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Lavender 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Lavender,  Test 


for. 


.1482 


Essential  Oil  of  Lemon 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Lemon,  to  keep!473 
Essential  Oil  of  Lemon,  to  re- 
store  1472 

Essential  Oil  of  Mustard 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Origanum 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Pear,   Facti- 
tious  1470,  4302 

Essential  Oil  of  Pennyroval  . .  .1465 
Essential  Oil  of  Peppermint . . .  1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Pimento 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Quince,  Facti- 
tious   1471,  4296 

Essential  Oilof  Rhodium-Woodl465 
Essential  Oil  of  Sandal- Wood. .  1465 


Essential  Oil  of  Savine 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  Spearmint 1465 

Essential  Oil  of  yalerian 1465 

Essential  Oils,  Millou's  Method 

for 1467 

Essential  Oils,  Mixed 1243 

Essential  Oils,  to  detect  Alcohol 

in 1476 

Essential  Oils,  to  detect  Mixtures 

of 1477 

Essential  Oils,  to  detect  Oil  or 

Resin  in 1475 

Essential  Oils,  to  distill 1466 

Essential  Oils,  to  extract,  from 

"Wood.  <fcc 46 

Essential  Oils,  to  obtain 1465 

Essential  Oils,  to  perfume  Oils  1227 

Essential  Oils,  to  purify 1474 

Essential  Salt  of  Lemons 378 

Etching  Fluid  for  Copper 2961 

Etching  Fluid  for  Ivory 2002 

Etching  Fluid  for  Steel 2963 

Etching  on  Glass 2374 

Etching  on  Ivory 2004 

Etching  on  Shells 0186 

Etching  Varnishes 2960 

Etching  Varnish  for  Glass 2959 

Etching  Varnish  for  Ivory 2003 

Ether 4279,  <fec. 

Ether,  Acetic 4291,  &c. 

Ether,  Benzoic 4294 

Ether,  Butyric 4293 

Ether,  Cautions  about 4283 

Ether,  Chloric 4297 

Ether,  Compound  Spirit  of 4749 

Ether,  Formic 4295 

Ether  Glue 6385 

Ether,  Hydrochloric 4290 

Ether,  Nitric 4287 

Ether,  Nitrous 4288 

Ether,  CBnanthic 4296 

Ether,  Ozone 4284 

Ether,  Pelargonic 3471,  4296 

Ether,  Percentage  of,  in  Alco- 
holic Mixtures 4286 

Ether,  Phosphorated 4748 

Ether,  Stronger,  Officinal 4281 

Ether,  Sulphuric 4279,  &c. 

Ether,  Syrup  of 4653 

Ether,  Tests  for 4285 

Ether,  to  purify 4282 

Ethereal  Extracts,  to  prepare. .    44 

Ethereal  Solution  of  Gold 3585 

Ethine 4048 

Ethiops  of  Antimony 4126 

Ethyl 4298 

Ethyl,  Acetate  of 4299 

Ethyl  Benzine 6409 

Ethyl,  Benzoate  of 4294 

Ethyl,  Butyrate  of 4293 

Ethyl,  Chloride  of 4290 

Ethyl,  Formiate  of 4295 

Ethyl,  (Enanthylate  of 4296 

Ethyl,  Oxide  of 4279 

Ethyl,  V&lerianate  of 4300 

Evans'  Tooth  Amalgam 3549 

Evaporating  Lotions 4843 

Evaporation 15,  44 

Evaporation.  Spontaneous 3842 

Everton  Taffee 6283 

Excellent  Dentifrice 1297 

Exchequer  Ink 2469 

Expansion  Metal 3454 

Expectorants 5595 

Explosives 2130,  &c. 

Explosive  Compound,  New 2137 

Expression,Vegetable  Juices  by    45 

Extermination  of  Vermin 1892 

Extract  of  Almonds 1033 

Extract  of  Arnica 4751 

Extract  of  Bitter  Almonds 1033 

Extract  of  Bitter  Almonds,  Non- 
poisonous  1034 

Extract  of  Black  Cohosh 4750 

Extract  of  Black  Pepper 1039 

Extract  of  Capsicum 1040 

Extract  of  Celery 1043 

Extract  of  Cinnamon 1036 

Extract  of  Coriander 1041 

Extract  of  Ginger 1038 

Extract  of  Indigo 99 

Extract  of  Lead 4775 


Essential  Oil  of  Sassafras 1465  |  Extract  of  Lemon 1031 


Extract  of  Milk 5470 

Extract  of  Nutmegs 1037 

Extract  of  Orange 1033 

Extract  of  Patchouli 1069 

Extract  of  Roses 1035 

Extract  of  Soup-Herbs 1044 

Extract  of  Storax  or  Styrax 902 

Extract  of  Vanilla 1049 

Extracts,  Flavoring 1030 

Extracts,  Fluid,  see  FLUID  Ex- 

TUACTS. 

Extracts,  to  keep,  from  Mould- 
ing     44 

Extracts,  to  prepare 44,  1061 

Extraits 1061,  &o. 

Extrait  de  Frangipanni 948 

Extrait  de  Millefleurs 1063 

Extrait  do  Patchouli 1069 

Extrait  de  Rondeletia 946,  1062 

Eye,  Black,  Treatment  of.  5792,  &c. 
Eye,  to  allay  Irritation  in  the.  .5806 
Eye,  to  expel  Insects  from  the. 5795 
Eye,  to  extract  Steel  from  the. 5796 
Eye,  to  remove  Dirt  from  the.  .5794 
Eye,  to  remove  Zinc  or  Iron 

from  the 5805 

Eye  Waters 5797,  &.C. 

Face,  to  mould  the,  in  Wax  . .  .3688 

Face-joints,  Cement  for 2169 

Factitious,  see  ARTICLE  imitated. 
Fahrenheit,  Centigrade  and 

Reaumur  compared 99 

Fahrenheit's  Thermometer ...    85 
Fahrenheit,  to  reduce  Centi- 
grade to 80 

Fahrenheit,  to  reduce  Reaumur 

to 88 

Fahrenheit,  to  reduce,  to  Centi- 
grade     87 

Fahrenheit,  to  reduce,  to  Reau- 
mur     89 

Fainting  Fits,  Treatment  of. . .  5694 

Talk's  Antacid  Tincture 5444 

Family  Salve 4935 

Family  Soap,  to  make .  549,  &c,  6307 

Fancy  Boxes,  to  Stain 2858 

Farina's  Eau  dc  Cologne. .  .982,  985 
Fat,  Rancid,  to  restore  . . .  1489,  <fec. 

Fat,  to  color,  for  Pomades 1257 

Fat,  to  deodorize,  for  Soap 530 

Fat,  to  extract,  from  Bones 1525 

Fat,  to  grain 532 

Fat,  to  keep  from  getting  Ran- 
cid  531,  535,  1491,  &c. 

Fat,  to  perfume 1255 

Fat,  to  preserve 536,  1516,  6309 

Fat,  to  purify 1254,  1517 

Faucets,  Wooden,  to  keep  from 

Cracking 6305 

Fawn  Dyes  for  Cottons  146, 150,  &c. 

Fawn  Dve  for  Silks 310 

Feather  Brushes,  to  make 62C3 

Feather  Shot  Copper 3249 

Feathered  Sugar 1368 

Feathered  Tin 107,  3319 

Feathers,  Goose,  to  cleanse 6324 

Feathers,  Ostrich,  to  clean 655 

Feathers,  Solutions  for  preserv- 
ing   1663 

Feathers,  to  bleach 1727 

Feathers,  to  cleanse,  from  Ani- 

malFat 659 

Feathers,  to  curl 658 

Feathers,  to  dye 324,  &c. ' 

Febrifuge  Spirit 5194 

Febrifuge  Tincture 5195 

Febrifuge  Wine 5141 

Feet,  BUstered,  Remedy  for  . .  .5830 

Feet,  Cold,  Remedy  for 5831 

Feet,  Frosted,  Remedy  for 5843 

Feet,  Lineal,  compared  with 

Metres 5978 ; 

Feet,  to  absorb  Perspiration  in 

the 5846 

Feet,  to  correct  Offensive  Smell 

in  the 5845 

Felon 5548 

Felon,  Bone,  to  cure 5551 

Felon,  Treatment  of 5549,  &c. 

Felting,  French  Waterproof. . .  1556 
Females,  Pills  for  . .  .5382,  5719,  &.c. 
Fences,  Whitewash  for 2803 


578          FEN— FIE 

Fennel,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Fennel  Water 4757 

Fennel  Water,  to  distill..  1071,  1073 

Fenugreek-Seeds,  Oil  of 4752 

Fermentation 16,  861 

Fermentation,  Acetous 1 

Fermentation,  Acetous,  in  Beer  867 
Fermentation,  Alcoholic  or  Vin- 

Fermentation  in  Brewing 861 

Fermentation,  Mucilaginous  or 

Viscous 16 

Fermentation  of  Beer,  Hints  on  866 

Fermentation,  Putrid 16 

Fermentation,  Saccharine 16 

Fermentation,  to  arrest 766 

Fermentation,  to  induce 765 

Fermentation,  to    prevent,    in 

Cider 835,852 

Fermented  Cider 837,  &c, 

Fermenting,  to  prevent  Syrup 

from 1366 

Ferns,  to  copy 6174 

Ferrated  Elixir  of  Wild-Cherry  4716 
Ferrated  Wine  of  Wild-Cherry.  4715 

Ferridcyanides 3954 

FerrMcyanide  of  Iron 4169 

Ferridcyanide  of  Potassium  . .  .4200 

Ferrochyazic  Acid 3956 

Ferrocyanides 3956 

Ferrocyanide  of  Copper 4098 

Ferroeyanide  of  Iron 4167 

Ferrocyanide  of  Potassium  1 . .  .4201 
Ferrophosphorated  Elixir  of  Cal- 

isaya 4699,  4700 

Ferrophosphorated  Elixir  of 

Gentain 4725 

Fertilizers  for  the  Soil 1820,  &c. 

Fertilizing  Powder 1829 

Festers,  Poultice  for 5032 

Fever  and  Ague,  Remedies  for  5579 

&c.,  6420. 

Fever  Drink 4762,  5136 

Fever,  Houseleek  for 5144 

Fever,  Intermittent,  Pills  for.. 4904 

4908. 
Fever,  Intermittent,  Remedies 

for 5756,  G420 

Fovcr  Mixture 5137,  5757 

Fovcr  Powder 5145 

Fovcr,  Scarlet,  Preventive  of.  .5753 

Fovcr,  Scarlet,  Remedy  for 5755 

Fever,  Scarlet,  Treatment  of.. 5750 

Fever  Tincture 5371 

Fever,  Typhoid,  Remedy  for.. 5747 

Fig  Soap C01 

FigWino 729 

File,  to,  a  Flat  Surface C255 

Files,  Old,  to  temper 3289 

Files,  to  clean C258 

Files,  to  sharpen,  with  Acids..  6256 

Filled  Soap 538 

Filter  Bags  for  Cordials 811 

Filter  for  Bitters 830 

Filter  for  Brandy 709 

Filter  for  Shellac 2934 

Filter  for  Strong  Acids  cr  Alka- 
lies       18 

Filter  for  Syrups 1358 

Filter  for  Wines 714 

Filter,  Gun-Cotton 18 

Filter,  Self-feeding 17,  3840 

Filter,  to,  Corrosive  Liquids. .  .3836 

Filter,  to,  Precipitates 3837 

Filter,  to,  Rapidly 3838 

Filter,  to,  Vegetable  Infusions  3835 
Filter,  to,  Vegetable  Juices  . .  .3834 
Filtcrin  g  Paper,  Qualities  of ..  17 

Filtering  Powders 3839 

Filters  for  Various  Purposes. . .     17 

Filtration 17 

Finger-nails,  Treatment  of 5823 

Finger-rings,  Tight,  to  remove  6213 

Fining  for  Ale  or  Beer 871 

Fining  for  Cordials 807,  &c. 

FiningforGin 706 

Fining  for  Spirits 703 

Fining  for  Wines 716 

Firo  Annihilator 6379 

Fire-Brick,  to  remove  Clinker 

from 6241 

Fire-Dump 4048 

Fire-Eating  Ghosts 2101 


FIR — FLO 

Fire-Gilding 3594 

Fire,  Greek 2129 

Fire  in  a  Chimney,  to  put  out  6209 
Fire  Kindlers,  to  make. .  .6205,  6402 

Fire  Lute 2269 

Fireproof  Canvas 1563 

Fireproof  Paint 2772 

Fireproof  Paper 1941 

Fireproof,  to  render  various  Ar- 
ticles  1564 

Fireproof  Whitewash 2801 

Fires,  Colored 2065,  <fec. 

Fires,  to  extinguish 6379 

Firework  Cases,  to  make 2053 

Firework  Mixture,  Japanese  .  .2127 

Fireworks 2048,  &c. 

Fish,  Gold,  to  keep 6189 

Fish  Oil,  to  detect 1498 

Fish,  to  preserve,  with  Sugar  . .  1615 

Fits,  Fainting 5694 

Fits,  Treatment  of 5695 

Fixed  Oils 1487,  &c. 

Fixed  Oils,  Lubricating,  to  re- 
fine  1495 

Fixed  Oils,  Rancid,  to  restore  .  1489 

Fixed  Oils,  Tests  for 1496,  &c. 

Fixed  Oils,  to  bleach 1504,  &c. 

Fixed  Oils,  to  deodorize 1488 

Fixed  Oils,  to  prevent  Rancid- 
ity in 1491 

Fixed  Oils,  to  purify 1511 

Fixed  Oils,  to  purify,  for  Lamps  1494 

Flannel,  Old,  to  bleach 507,  6327 

Flannels,  to  wash  and  shrink. .  493 

Flat-Irons,  to  clean 6228 

Flatness  in  Beer,  to  remedy 878 

Flatting  for  House-painting  . .  .2753 
Flatulency,  see  CARMINATIVES. 

Flavor  of  Almonds. 943 

Flavoring  Extracts 1030 

Flavoring  for  Beer 864 

Flavorings  for  Liquids,  664,  &c.,6294 

Flaxen  Hair-Dye ". 1206 

Flaxseed  Tea 5589 

Fleas,  to  banish 1913 

Fleas,  to  catch 1915 

Fleas,  to  exterminate 1914 

Flemming's  Solution  of  Strych- 
nia  5355 

Flesh-color  Stain  for  Marble.  .2040 

Flesh-colored  Collodion 11C8 

Fleurs  d'  Orange,  Essence 961 

Fleurs  d'  Orange,  Pastilles  aux.  134 2 

Flexible  Oil  -Varnishes 2800 

Flexible  Spirit -Varnish. .  .2948,  &c. 

Flies,  Poison  for 1912 

Flies,  to  drive  from  Stables 1923 

Flies,  to  keep,  from  Horses 1924 

Flies,  to  kill 1911 

Flint  Glass 2352 

Floating  Soap 568 

Floors,  Concrete  for 2206 

Floors,  to  clean 426 

Floors,  to  extract  Oil  Stains 

from 394 

Floors,  Wax  for  Polishing 1591 

Florida  Water 1011 

Florists'  Compost 1822 

Flour,  how  to  judge 4379 

Flour,  Musty,  to  improve 1644 

Flour,  to  detect  Mineral  Substan- 
ces in 4378 

Flowers,  Argentine 4127 

Flower-Garden,  Receipts  for 

the 1819,  &c. 

Flower-Pots,  to  expel  Worms 

from ]853 

Flowers,  Cut,  tokcepFresh,1835&c. 
Flowers,  Cut,  to  preserve.  1836, 6175 

Flowers,  Essences  of 942,  974 

Flowers,  Faded,  to  restore 1839 

Flowers,  Hydrangea,  to  make 

Blue 1842 

Flowers  of  Antimony 4127 

Flowers  of  Benzoin  or  Benja- 
min   3942 

Flowers  of  Sulphur 4354 

Flowers  of  Zinc 4116 

Flowers,  to  change  the  Color 

of. 1833,1834 

Flowers,  to  gild,  on  Silver-plate  3694 
Flowers,  to  hasten  the  Bloom- 
ing of 1825 


FLO — FLU 

Flowers,  to  preserve,  for  Per- 
fumery   1349 

Fluid  Alloy  of  Sodium  and  Po- 
tassium   3455 

Fluid  Extracts 4571,  <tc. 

Fluid  Extracts,  Classified  For- 
mula} for  obtaining  . . .  .4573,  <fec. 
Fluid  Extract  of  Aconite  Leaves4574 
Fluid  Extract  of  Aconite-root. 4575 
Fluid  Extract  of  Allspice  (Pi- 
mento)   4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Bearberry . . .  .4577 
Fluid  Extract  of  Belladonna. . .  4574 
Fluid  Extract  of  Bittersweet  .  .4577 
Fluid  Extract  of  Blackberry- 
root 4577 

Fluid  Extract  of  Black  Cohosh 

(Cimieit'uga  Raeemosa)  .4575, 4592 
Fluid  Extract  of  Blessed-Thistle 

(Carduus  Benedictus) 4604 

Fluid  Extract  of  Blood-Root..  .4575 

Fluid  Extract  of  Boneset 4576 

Fluid  Extract  of  Buchu  . .  4574,  4590 

Fluid  Extract  of  Burdock 4596 

Fluid  Extract  of  Calisaya 4577 

Fluid  Extract  of  Canella 4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Capsicum 4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Cardamom  . . .  4579 
Fluid  Extract  of  Chamomile..  .4597 

Fluid  Extract  of  Chiretta 4576 

Fluid  Extract  of  Cinchona 4605 

Fluid  Extract  of  Cinnamon 4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Cloves 4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Colchicum  ...4576 

Fluid  Extract  of  Columbo 4576 

Fluid  Extract  of  Cranesbill 

(Geranium) 4577 

Fluid  Extract  of  Cubebs 4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Elecampane. .  4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Ergot 4578 

Fluid  Extract  of  Foxglove  (Di- 
gitalis)   4574 

Fluid  Extract  of  Galls 4577 

Fluid  Extract  of  Gentian- 4576 

Fluid  Extract  of  Hellebore, 

American 4575 

Fluid  Extract  of  Hellebore, 

Black .  4575 

Fluid  Extract  of  Hemlock  (Co- 

nhun) 4578 

Fluid  Extract  of  Henbane 4574 

Fluid  Extract  of  Hops  4594 

Fluid  Extract  of  Ipecacuanha  .4575 

Fluid  Extract  of  Jnlap 4575 

Fluid  Extract  of  Life- root 4602 

Fluid  Extract  of  Liquorice 4595 

Fluid  Extract  of  Lobelia 4578 

Fluid  Extract  of  Lupulin 4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Mandrake 4575 

Fluid  Extract  of  Matico 4574 

Fluid  Extract  of  May-Apple 

Root 4575 

Fluid  Extract  of  Myrrh 4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Orris-root 4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Pnreira 4606 

Fluid  Extract  of  Pellitory-root  4579 
Fluid  Extract  of  Pink-root  (Spi- 

gelia) 4577 

Fluid  Extract  of  Pipsissewa. .  .4577 
Fluid  Extract  of  Prickly-Ash 

Bark 4579 

Fluid  Extract  of  Pomegranate- 
root  Bark 4577 

Fluid  Extract  of  Queen's-root 

(Stillhigia) 4587 

Fluid  Extract  of  Red  Bark 4605 

Fluid  Extract  of  Rhubarb,  Al- 
kaline  4591 

Fluid  Extract  of  Rhubarb  and 

Potossa 4586 

Fluid  Extract  of  Sarsaparilla  .  .4577 

Fluid  Extract  of  Seullcap 4601 

Fluid  Extract  of  Senna  and 

Jalap 4603 

Fluid  Extract  of  Seneka    4576,4598 
Fluid  Extrnct  of  Snake-root. 

Black  (Cimicifuga) 4575,  4592 

Fluid  Extract  of  Snake-root, 

Virginia  (Serpentaria) 4576 

Fluid  Extract  of  Squill. .  .4576,  4593 

Fluid  Extract  of  Sumach 4600 

Fluid  Extract  of  Thorn-apple 
(Stramonium) 4574 


FLTJ — FRK 


FUR — GAY 


Fluid  Extract  of  Valerian 4574  I  French  Brandy,  Imitation 681 

Fluid  Extract  of  Vanilla 4607    French  Bronze 3780 


Fluid  Extract  of  Wild-Cherry 

Bark 4589 

Fluid  Extract  of  Yarrow 4588 

Fluid  Extract  of  Yellow-Bark  .  4577 

Fluid  for  Smoking  Msats 1601 

Fluid  Measures,  Graduated  ...5957 

Fluor  Spar 3960 

Fluoric  Acid 3960 

Fluoric  Acid,  to  obtain 3961 

Fluorides 3960 

Fluxes  3460,  &c. 

Flux,  Black 3461 

Flux,  Cornish  refining 3462 

Flux,  Cornish  reducing 3465 

Flux,  Crude 3466 

Flux,  for  Arsenic 3469 

Flux  for  Copper 3470 

Flux  for  reducing  Load  Ore. .  .3464 
Flux  for  soldering  Various  Met- 
als  3476,  &c.,  3531 

Flux  for  Spelter  Solder 3489 

Flux  for  Welding  Metals 3531 

Flux,  Fresenius' 3468 

Flux,  Liebig's 3467 

Flux,  Reducing 3463 

Flux,  White 3462 

Foils  for  Imitation  Gems  .2447,  &c. 

Fomentations 5165,  &c. 

Fomentation,  Anodyne 515(i 

Fomentation,  Arnica 5159 

Fomentation,  Ordinary 5157 

Fomentation,  Stimulating 5160 

Fomentation,  Strengthening  ..5158 

Fontainemoreau's  Bronzes 3448 

Fontanier's  Base  for  Artificial 

Gems 2424 

Food.  Chemical 4645 

Food  for  Mocking  Birds,  6190,  6191 
Foot,  Lineal,  Decimal  Equiva- 
lents of 5985 

Foot-rot  in  Cattle,  Ointment 

for 5001 

Ford's  Balsam  of  Horehound  .  .5367 
Foreign  Weights  and  Mea- 
sures   6054,  &c. 

Foreign  Weights,  &c.,  com- 
pared with  American 6055 

Forges  Water 4470 

Forks,  French  Alloy  for 3427 

Forks,  to  clean 421 

Forks,  to  fasten  Handles  on  . .  .2221 
Forks,  to  keep,  in  good  order. .  422 
Formiato  of  Ethyl 4295 


Formic  Ether . 


.4295 


Toucher's  Dressing  for  Wounds  5392 

Foundations,  Concrete  for 2205 

Fountains,  Ajutage  of 6233 

Fowler's  Solution 4804 

Foxglove,  Fluid  Extract  of.... 4574 

Foxglove.  Oil  of 4752 

Foxglove,  Tincture  of 4490 

Foxing  Beer 880 

Foy's  Muriatic  Acid  Chilblain 

Lotion 5398 

Foy's  Sulphuric  Acid  Chilblain 

Liniment 5399 

Frames  for  Hot-beds,  Varnish 

for 0898 

Frames,  Picture,  to  clean 2J78 

Frangipanni 948 

Frangipanni,  Essence  or  Extrait 

of 948 

Frangipanni  Soap 562 

Frank's  Solution  of  Copaiba.  ..4801 

Frear  Stone 2323 

Freckle  Balsam 1122 

Freckles,  Lotions  to  remove. .  .1141 

1153,  &c. 
Freckles,  Pomade  to  remove  ..1163 

Freckles,  to  remove 5884 

Freeman's  Vermifuge  Oil 5643 

Freezing  Mixtures 1687,  &e. 

French  Alloy  for  Forks,  &c 3427 

French  Beans.  Pickled 1801 

French  Bell-Metnl 3441 

French  Binary  Weights 6046 

French  Binary    Weights    com- 
pared with  American. . . 6047,  &.c. 
French  Binary    W_eights  com- 
pared with  Metrical 6050 

French  Boot  Varnish 0957 


French  Brown  Dye  for  Cottons  149 
French  Champagne,  Imitation.  722 
French  Cherry  Bounce 795 


French  Chocolate 6276 


French  Cognac  Bitters,  i 


815 


French  Coffee,  to  make 6287 

French  Coin  Silver 3408 

French  Colorless  Varnish 2935 

French  Hospital  Itch  Ointment  4955 

French  Huiles 1244 

French  Liard  for  Lubrication.  .1543 
French  Linear  Measure,  Old.  ..6051 

French  Lip_-Salvo 1174 

French  Method  of  Bleaching 

Wax 1580 

French  Method  of  Coloring 

Gold. 


French  Methods  of  Waterproof- 
ing  1553,  1556 

French  Metrical  Weights,  &C.6052 

French  Money 6053 

French  Nut-Oil,  to  detect 1498 

French  Pastilles 1342,  &c. 

French  Pastilles,  Basis  for 1341 

French  Pepsine  Wine 4721 

French  Polish 2996,  &c. 

French  Polish,  Spirits  for  Fin- 
ishing  3006 

French  Polish,  to  color  or  stain,  3003 

French  Polish,  Waterproof 3004 

French  Polishing 2981,  2993,  &c. 

French  Polishing,  Rubber  for.  .2995 

French  Pomades 1262 

French  Process  for  Turkey  Red  189 

French  Silver 3428 

French  Syrup  of  Balsam  of  Co- 


paiba   4667 

French  Syrup  of  Santonin 4668 

French  Washing  Composition  6306 
French  Weights  and  Measures  6045 
French- White  Dye  for  Silks...  263 
French- White  for  the  Complex- 
ion   1108 

Frescoes,  Glazing  for 6315 

Fresenius'  Flux 3468 

Fretting  in  Wines 757 

Frey's  Vermifuge 5426 

Friars'  Balsam 5091 

Frit  for  Artificial  Gems.  .2352,  2419 

Frit  for  Enamels 2379 

Frontignac  Wine,  Imitation. .  .6418 

6419. 
Frost  Bites,  Remedies  for,  5843,  &c. 

Frosted  Beer,  to  recover 879 

Frothing  over  in  Churning,  to 

prevent. '. 6286 

Frozen  Potatoes,  to  remedy 6204 

Fruit  Acid 1401 

Fruit  Essences,  Artificial,  1045,  &c. 
Fruit-Stains,  toremove,364,  &c.,  370 

Fruit,  to  can 1634,  &c. 

Fruit,  to  dry 1640 

Fruit,  to  keep,  fresh 1638,  1642 


Fruit,  to  preserve,  in  Glycerine,  1643 

Fruit  Trees,  see  TKEKS. 

Fuch's  Soluble  Potash  Glass. .  .2817 

Fuch's  Soluble  Soda  Glass 2818 

Fuchsinc 2553,  2G13 

Fuchsine,  to  dye  with 2613 

Fuchsinc,  to  Photograph  with,  3156 

Fuligokali  Ointment 5380 

Fuligokali,  to  obtain 5381 

Fulminates 2130,  <tc. 

Fulminating  Antimony 2131 

Fulminating  Copper 2135 

Fulminating  Gold 2132 

Fulminating  Mercury 2134 

Fulminating  Powder 213G 

Fulminating  Silver 0133 

Fnmaric  Acid 3'J67 

Fumigation  of  Plants 1352 

Fumigation,  Pastils  for.  ..1337,  £c. 

Fuming  Liquor 5353 

Fuming  Sulphuric  Acid H858 

Furnace-Slag,  Cement  from 2212 


Furniture,  Paste  for  Polishing,  2988 

2990. 

Furniture,  Polish  for  .....  0987,  <tc. 
Furniture,  to  clean  .  .2SJ85,  2!)8(i,  64]  1 
Furniture,  to  polish  ......  2985,  2987 


Furniture,  to  take  bruises,  put  of  6221 

Furniture,  to  varnish 2974,  <fcc. 

Furniture,  to  wax 2992 

Fur-skins,  to  tan 645,  &c. 

Furs,  to  clean 650,  <fcc. 


Furs,  to  improve G53 

Furs,  to  preserve,  from  Moth. . .  654 
Fusel  Oil,  to  free  Alcohol  from.  1445 

Fusibility  of  Metals 3353 

Fusible  Alloys 3456,  3504 

Fusible  Alloys,  Amalgam  of. ..3547 

Fusible  Alloys,  Moulds  of 3679 

Fusion 19 

Galbanum  Pills,  Compound 4921 

Galena 3253 

Gallates 3905 

Gallic  Acid 3905 

Gallic  Acid,  from  Tannin 3907 

Gallic  Acid,  to  distinguish,  from 

Tannic  Acid 3908 

Gallic  Acid,  to  obtain 3906 

GaUipoli  Oil,  to  detect 1498 

Gallipoli  Oil,  to  test 1499 

Galls,  Fluid  Extract  of 4577 

Galls  in  Horses,  Lotion  for 4855 

Galls,  Lotion  of 4846 

Galls,  Ointment  of 5006 

Galls,  Tincture  of 4561 

Galvanic  Battery,  Improved  Li- 
quid for 3668 

Galvanic  Battery,  Material  for 

Cells 2213 

Galvanic  Battery,  Principles  of, 

Explained 3665 

Galvanic  Battery,  to  amalgamate 

Zinc  for 3555,  3662 

Galvanic  Battery,  toconstructa3666 
Galvanic  Battery,  to   Electro- 


type with. 


3671 


Galvanic  Battery,  to  keep  the 

Zinc  Amalgamated 3663 

Galvanic  Tinning 3751 

Galvanic  Troughs,  Cement  for  2170 

Galvanized  Iron 3649 

Galvanized  Iron,  Test  for 3758 

Game,  to  keep,  fresh 1645 

Gannal's  Antiseptic  Solution . .  1657 

Ganteine 6332 

Gants  Cosmeiiques 1176 

Garden,  Receipts  for  the.  .1819,  &c. 
Garden-beds,  to  drive  Vermin 

from 1923 

Garden-beds  to  protect,  from 

Snails 1862 

Garden  -walks,    see    GRAVEL 
WALKS. 

Gargles 5063,  &c. 

Gargle,  Anti-syphilitic 5415 

Gargle,  Borax  und  Honey 5307 

Gargle,  Carbolic  Acid 5066 

Gargle  for  Diphtheria,  <te 5073 

Gargle  for  Sore  Throat. .  .5065,  &c. 
Gargle  for  Threatened  Mortifi- 
cation  5071 


Gargle,  Mucilaginous 5070 

Gargle,  Potassa 5064 

Gargle  to  promote  Suppuration  5072 

Garlic,  Oil  of 4752 

Garlic  Vinegar 1774 

Garnet  Foil  2454 

Garnet,  Imitation 2357,  2429 

Garret's  Coating  for  Pills 5359 

Gams,  Elixir  do 4717 

Gas 4030,  &c. 

Gas  Bajrs,  torncnd 0392 

Gas,  Cod,  to  detect  Sulphur  in  4399 
Gas  Meters,  to  keep,  from  Freez- 
ing  6214 

Gas  Pipe,  tr>  bend 631G 

Gas,  to  find  the  Specific  Gravity 

of 49 

Gas,  to  find  the  Weight  of 4032 

Gas  Tubing,  India-rubber,  to 

make  Gas-tight 4033 

Gas,  Weight,  <tc.,  cf 6138 

Gasoline 1 527 


Gassicourt's  Turpentine  Lotion  5401 

Gauge  Stuff  for  Plastering 0200 

Gay-Lnssac's  Acidimeter 82 

Gay-Lussac's  Alcoholmeter  ..  .6157 
Gay-Lussnc's  Alknlimetcr . 


Furniture,  to  restore  ..........  0978  j  Gay.Lussac's  Areometers  Cl  55,  615C 


B8O     GAY — GIL  Grri — GLA 

Gay-Lnssac's  Pouret 82  !  Gilding,  to  burnish 2566 

Gay-Lussac's  Pyrophonts 4343  j  Gilding,  to  finish 3568 

Gedding's  Pile  Ointment 5254  [  Gilding,  to  mat  or  deaden 3567 

Gelatine 4365  <  Gilding,   to  prepare  Picture 


Gelatine,  Bone 4367 

Gelatine  Capsules 6338 

Gelatine  from  Bones 4366 

Gelatine,  Patent 4369 

Gelatine,  Tests  for 4370 

Gelatine  Wafers 4369 

G  elee  ponr  le  Goitre 5271 

Gelseminum,  Tincture  of 4493 

Gems,  Artificial 2419,  &c. 

Gems,  Comparative  Weight  and 

Hardness  of 6136 

Gems,  Imitation 2353 

Gems,  Imitation,  Foils  for,  2447,  &c. 

Gems,  to  cement,  to  Metal 2152 

Gendar  and  Tralles  Compared,    58 
Gendar's  Hydrometer 58 


Frames  for 3559,  &c. 

Gilding,   to  remove,   from  Old 


GLA — GOL 


Glauber's  Salt 4207 

Glaze  for  China  and  Earthen- 
ware  2404,  &c. 

Glaze  for  Frescoes 6315 

Glaziers'  Solder . .  - 3503 

Gleet  Powder 5314 


China 3595  j  Gloss-Finish  on  Woolens,  to  re- 
Gilding,  Water 3584  j     store 469 


Generator  for  making  Vinegar,  1734    Gin,  to  clarify 704  !  Glue,  Isin 


Generator,  Vinegar,  to  pack  a,  1735 
Gentian,  Ferrophosphorated 

Elixir  of 4725 

Gentian,  Fluid  Extract  of 4576 

Gentian,  Tincture  of 4569 

Geographical  Measure 6010 

George  s  Myrrhine 5377 

George's  Preventive  for  Pitting 

in  Smallpox 5760 

Geranium  Cuttings,  to  manage  1831 

Geranium,  Fluid  Extract  of 4577 

Gerlach's  Tables  of  Soda  Solu- 


tions. 


627 

German  Black  Salve 5007 

German  Bouquet  for  Beer 882 

German  HardCoatingforWoodl683 

German  Lip  Salve 1175 

German  Paste  for  feeding  Sing- 
ing Birds  6191 

German  Plate 3416 


German  Silver 3348,  3409,  &c. 

German  Silver  for  Castings 3411 

German  Silver  for  Rolling 3410 

German  SUver,  Genuine 3412 

German  Silver,  Pclouze's 3413 

German  Silver,  to  coat,  with  Sil- 
ver  3607 

German  Silver, to  electroplate  on371 1 
German  Silver,  to  electroplate 

with 3770 

German  Soup  Tablets 1633 

German  Syrup  of  Rhubarb 4675 

German  Tea  for  the  Chest 5425 

German  Vinegar  Process 1733 

German  Wine,  to  correct  Acid- 
ity in 753 

Gherkins,  Pickled 1793 

Ghost  Scenes,  Fires  for  ..2078,  2101 

Ghosts,  Fire-eating 2101 

Gilding 3556,  <tc. 

Gilding,  Amalgam  for 3533 

Gilding,  Brass  for 3369,  3370 

Gilding,  Burnished 3558 

Gilding  by  Amalgams 3590 

Gilding,  Electro,  see  ELKCTKO- 
GILDING. 

Gilding,  Fire 3594 

Gilding,  Grecian 3577 

Gilding,  Leaf 3579 

Gilding,  Liquid  for  Cleaning. .  .3598 

Gilding  Metal 3348 

Gilding,  Oil 3570,  3581 

Gilding,  Oil  Size  for 3571,  3580 

Gilding  on  Book  Edges 3574 

Gilding  on  Flowers ,  .3(594 

Gilding  on  Glass  . .  .3575,  3596,  3597 

Gilding  on  Ivory 2005 

Gilding  on  Japan-ware 3578 

Gilding  on  Metal  3533,  <tc.,  3582,  &c. 
Gilding  on  Metal  by  Immer- 
sion  3587,  &c.,  3743 

Gilding  on  Metal,  Solutions 

for 3585,  &c. 

Gilding  Paste 3593 

Gilding  on  Pictnre  Frames,  Size 


for. 


.3562 


Gilding  on  Silk 3599 

Gilding  on  Silver 3577 

Gilding  on  Steel 3586 

Gilding  on  Wood 3557,  &c. 

Gilding  on  Wood,  Implements 
for 3557 


Gilding,  Water  Size  for 3572 

Gilding  with  Dutch  Metal 3576 

Gilding  without  a  Batterv  3743,  &c. 
Gilt  Articles,  Test  Fluid  for . .  .3746 
Gilt  Articles,  to  dissolve  the 

Gold  from 3739,  &c. 

Gilt  Articles,  to  test 3747 

Gilt  Back-ground  for  Prints,  &c,2945 

Gin,  Finings  for 706 

Gin,  Imitation 697  j  Glue,  Elastic 2306 

Gin,  Stained,  to  clarify 708  |  Glue,  Ether 6385 

Gin,  to  blanch 705  I  Glue,  India-rubber 2291,  2293 


Gloss  for  the  Hair 1196 

Gloves,  Cosmetic 1176 

Gloves,  Kid,  to  clean 439 

Gloves,  Kid,  to  preserve  from 

Perspiration 6243 

Gloves,  Kid,  to  remove  Stains 

from 438 

Glue 2277,  &c. 

Glue,  Caseine 2294 


Gin,  to  remove  Blackness  from  707 

Ginger  Beer 893,  &c. 

Ginger  Beer,  Powders  for 902 

Ginger,  Essence  of 4619,  &c. 

Ginger,  Extract  of 1038 

Ginger,  Oleoresin  of 4584 

Ginger  Pop 896 

Ginger  Syrup  for  Soda  Water.  1392 

Ginger,  Tincture  of 4558 

Ginger  Wine 736,  &c. 

Ginghams,  to  preserve  the  Colors 

ofT 

Girambing   (Lemon   Ginger- 
Beer)  901 

Glass,  Various  Kinds  of  .  .2339,  &c. 
Glass,  Amalgam  for  Silvering, .  3538 

3545. 
Glass,  Cements  for  Joining .  2153,2156 

2237,  2247. 
Glass,  Coloring  for 2361 


487 


Glass,  Discolored,  to  clean 6212 

Glass  for  Photography. .  .3147,  3148 

Glass  Bottles,  to  clean 431 

Glass  Bottles,  to  fill,  with  Boil- 
ing Liquid 4617 

Glass  Globes,  to  clean 429 

Glass,  Ground,  to  imitate. 2372, 6408 
Glass,  Heated  Suddenly,  to  keep 

from  Cracking 1G38,  6210 

Glass,  Lead 2352 

Glass  Letters,  Cement  for.  ....6312 

Glass,  Light  House 2362 

Glass,  Mucilage  to  adhere  to  ..2309 

Glass  of  Antimony 2370 

Glass  ofBorax 2377 

Glass  Paper  or  Cloth 1 933 

Glass,  Pencils  to  write  on 6390 

Glass,  Soluble,  sec  SOLUKLE  GLASS. 

Glass,  Staining  for 2361 

Glass  Stoppers,  to  remove 6206 

Glass,  Substitute  for,  to  use  in 

Hot-houses 1887 

Glass  Syringes,  Cement  for 21fi6 

Glass,  to  clean 417,  6330 

Glass,  to  break,  in  any  required 

Shape 2368,  23(59 

Glass,  to  clean,  for  Silvering. .  .3621 
Glass,  to  cut,  without  a  Dia- 
mond  21567,    &c. 

Glass,  to  drill 2306 

Glass,  to  engravcou 2376 

Glass,  to  etch  on 2374 

Glass,  to  gild  on 3575,  3596,  <fcc. 

Glass,  tojoiu,  to  Metals. 2170,  2227, 
2261,  2262. 

Glass,  to  mend 2156 

Glass,  to  platinize 3656,  3657 

Glass,  to  polish  Silvered 3622 

Glass,  to  pulverize 25,  1932 

Glass,   to  remove  Tar,   &c., 
from. 


.6422 


Glass,  to  silver,  with  Amalgam  361 3 
Glass,  to  silver,  by  Solutions. .  .3615 

&c.,  3631. 
Glass,  totransferEngravingson6335 

Glass,  to  write  on 2371,  2375 

Glass  Tubes,  to  bend 3851 

Glass,  Varnish  for  Engravingon  2959 
Glass  Vessels,  Lute  for  Protect- 
ing  2270 

Glass,  Window,  to  restore  the 
Color  of 6211 


.2292 
Glue,  Liquid... 2284,  &c.,  2298,  2303 

Glue,  Marine 2291 

Glue,  Mouth 2307 

Glue,  Portable 2308 

Glue  Sizing,  to  make 2815 

Glue,  to  apply 2296 

Glue,  to  keep  from  Souring 2282 

Glue,  to  prepare,  for  Ready  Use  2283 
Glue,  to  prevent,  from  Cracking  2278 
Glue  to  resist  Moisture . . .  2280, 2290 

Glue,  Tungstic 2281 

Glue,  Strong,  to  make 2279 

Glue,  Waterproof 2291 

Glycerinated  Lotions,  see  LO- 
TIONS. 

Glycerinated    Ointments,    see 
OINTMENTS. 

Glycerine 4359 

Glycerine  Amandine 1119 

Glycerine  Balsam 5095 

Glycerine,  Caution  about 1 152 

Glycerine,  Commercial 4360 

Glycerine  Composition  for  Lea- 
ther  3073 

Glycerine  Cream 1 129 

Glycerine  Cream,  Rose 1130 

Glycerine,  Deflagrating 2137 

Glycerine  Ink 2471 

Glycerine  Jelly 5225 

Glycerine  Lip-Salvo 1 173 

Glycerine  Lotions..  1147,  &c.,  1150 

1153,  4839,  &c. 
Glycerine  Paste 2299,  5226 


Glycerine  Regenerative  Hair- 
Wash 


.1181 


Glycerine  Soap 570,  574 

Glycerine,  Solidified  Toilet 6398 

Glycerine,  Solvent  Power  of. . .  4361 
Glycerine  Starch  or  Plasma. .  5009 

Glycerine,  Tests  for 1151,  4364 

Glycerine,  to  preserve  Fruit  in  .1643 

Glycerine,  to  purify 4362,  &c. 

Glycerine,  use  of,  in  Wine 725 

Glycerine  Varnish  for  the  Skin  5491 

Glycerinized  Collodion 1169 

Glycerole,  Narcotic 5016 

Glyconino 5491 

Gnats,  Protection  against 1916 

Goadby's  Antiseptic  Solution.  .1665 

Goebei's  Pyrophorus 4344 

Goddard's  Aromatic  Blackberry 

Syrup 4685 

Goddard's  Cure  for   Loss   of 

Voice 5617 

Goddard's  Diarrhoea  Remedy.  .5656 
Goddard's  Elixir  of  Valerianate 

of  Ammonia 4733 

Goddard's  Gonorrhrea   Reme- 
dies  5733,  5734 

Godfrey's  Cordial 5364 

Goitre  Jelly 5271 


Gold. 


.3189 


Gold,  Alloys  of 3398,  &c. 

Gold  Amalgam 3533 

Gold  Amalgam,  to  gild  with.. 3534 

Gold,  Assay  of 3190,  <fcc. 

Gold,  Assay  of,  Weights  used  in  5948 

Gold,  Chemically  Pure 3193 

Gold,  Chlorides   of 3725,  4075 

Gold,  Coin 3399 

Gold  Coins,  to  clean 3239 

Gold-color  Bronzing  Powder. . .  3795 


GOV — ORE 


ORE — GUT 


Gold-colored  Dye  for  Silks 268  j  Government  Land  Measure. . .  .5984 

Gold-colored  Sealing  Wax 2318    Government  Stamp  Mucilage.  .2300 


Gold-colored  Stain  for  Marble.  .2041 

Gold-coloring  for  Brass 3390 

Gold-coloring  Solution 3199 

Gold,  Counterfeit  or  Imitation. 3397 
3431,  6364. 

Gold,  Cyanide  of 3727 

Gold  Detergent 3598 

Gold,  Different  Degrees  of  Fine- 
ness of 3400,  &c. 

Gold  Enamel,  Black 2398 

Gold,  Ethereal  Solution  of 3585 

Gold  Fish,  to  keep 6189 

Gold,  French  Method  for  Color- 
ing  3197 

Gold,  Fulminating 2132 

Gold,  Grain 3194 


Gold,  Green 3404 

Gold,  Hard 3398 


Gold  Ink 2491 

Gold  Labels  on  Glass  Bottles.  .2493 

Gold  Lace,  to  clean 414 

Gold  Lacquer  for  Brass,  &c. .  .3048 

Gold  Leaf,  to  apply 3565 

Gold  Leaf,  to  burnish 3566 


Gold  Leaf,  to  mat  or  deaden..  3567 
Gold  Leaf,  to  prevent,  from 

adhering 3573 

Gold  Leaf,  to  pulverize 25,  2517 

Gold,  Liquid 2518,  3195 

Gold  Lustre  for  Pottery 2415 

Gold,  Mosaic 6362 

Gold  Plating  Powder 3591 

Gold  Plating  Powder,  to  apply  3592 

Gold,  Polishing  Powder  for 3204 

Gold,  Shell 3569 

Gold  Size  for  gilding  AVood,  &c,3562 
3580. 

Gold,  Solder  for 3492 

Gold,  Solution  of,  for  Electro- 
gilding 3726,  3728 

Gold,  Solution  of,  for   Gilding 

Steel 3585 

Gold  Sprinkle  for  Bookbinders.  3106 

Gold-Stone,  Imitation 2443 

Gold,  Talmi 3432 

Gold,  Tests  for,  in  Solutions 4076 

Gold,  to  clean 3202 

Gold,  to  clean,  after  soldering. 3300 

Gold,  to  color 3197,  <tc. 

Gold,  to  distinguish,  from  Imita- 
tions  3745 

Gold,  to  recover,  from  Gilt  Arti- 
cles   3739,  3741 

Gold,  to  recover,  from  its  Solu- 
tions  3158,  3740 

Gold,  to  restore  the  Color  of 3201 

Gold,  to  test 4386 

Gold  Tracingon  Metal 3583 

Gold  Watch-Bands,    to    color, 

Red 3196 

Golden-Brown  Hair  Dye 1212 

Golden  Compound 6364 

Golden  Drops 5210 

Golden  Rain  for  Rockets 2056 

Golden  Tincture 5251 

Golden- Yellow  Hair  Dye 1208 

Gondret's    Ammoniacal   Oint- 
ment   5477 

Gongs 3446 

Goniometer 3833 

Gonorrhoea,  Injection  for. 5435,  5438 
&c.,  5732,  &c. 

Gonorrhoea,  Pills  for 4911 

Gonorrhoea,  Remedies  for  5731,  &c. 

Good  Samaritan  Liniment 4858 

Good  Old  Samaritan  Liniment. 5283 
Goose  Feathers,  to  cleanse  659,  6324 
Gooseberry  and  Currant  Wine.  .728 

Gooseberry  Essence 1056 

Gooseberry  Wino 728,  734,  735 

Gouffe's  Eau  do  Cologne 981 

Goulard's  Cerate 5476 

Goulard's  Extract,  Antidote  for  5908 

Goulard's  Eye-water 5804 

Goulard's  Poultice 5030 

Goulard's  Water 4776 


Gowland's  Lotion 1155 

Graeger's  Copper  Coating  for 

Iron 3636 

Grafting  Clay 1882 

Grafting  Wax 1880 

Graham's  Bronzing  Liquids 3797 

Graham's  Neuralgic  Liniment. 5220 
Grahame's  Elixir  of  Bismuth.  .5420 
Grahame's  Fluid  Extract  of 

Burdock 4596 

Grahame's  Method  of  Percola- 
tion  4572 

Grain  Gold    3194 

Grain  Measure,  Apothecaries.  .5956 
Grain  of  Paradise,  Tincture  of.  1021 
Grain  Tallow 532 


Grain  Tallow  Soap 544 

Grain  Tin  . .  3316 


Grams  compared  with  Apothe- 
caries' Weight 6030 

Grams  compared  with  Avoir- 
dupois   6028 

Grams  compared  with    Cubic 

Metres 6027 

Grams  compared  with  Troy. .  .6029 

Granulation 20 

Granville's  Counter-irritant  Lo- 
tions  5451 

Grape  Champagne 6417 

Grape  Essence,  Artificial 1055 

Grape  Syrup 1414 

Grape  Wine 728,  734,  740 

Grass,  Artificial  Manure  for. .  .1827 

Grass,  Dried,  to  stain 6172 

Grass  on  Gravel  Walks,  to  de- 
stroy  1870 

Grass  Plots,  Worms  in,  to  de- 
stroy  1876 

Grass,  to  cover  Banks  with 1886 

Grates,  Varnish  for 2902 

Gravel,  Pills  for  the 5244 

Gravel  Walks,  Concrete  for.  ..2207 
Gravel  Walks,  to  destroy  Grass 

on 1870 

Gravel  Walks,  to  destroy  Weeds 

on 1870,  1875 

Gravel  Walks,  to  destroy  Worms 

on 1875 

Gravel  Walks,  to  make 6355 

Gravel  Walks,  to  prevent  Weeds 

on 1869 

Gravel  Walks,  to  remove  Moss 

from 1861 

Gravers,  to  temper 3287 

Graves'  Gout  Preventive 5214 

Grease,  Bear's 1277 

Grease  for  Lubrication. .  .1541,  &c. 
Grease,  French  Scouring  Drops 

for 354 

Grease,  to  preserve 536,  6309 

Grease,  to  remove,  from  Boards,395 
Grease,  to  remove,  from  Carpets  357 
Grease,  to  remove,  from  Cloth.  .345 
Grease,  to  remove,  from  Paper.  .410 
Grease,  to  remove,  from  Silk350,&c. 
Grease,  to  remove,  from  Velvet. 331 
Grease-Spots,  to  kill,  before 

Painting 2778 

Grease-Spots,  to  remove. . .  .344,  &c. 

Greasy  Paper,  to  write  on 2506 

Grebe,  to  clean 656 

Grecian  Gilding  on  Silver 3577 

Greek  Fire 2129 

Green  and  Crimson,  to  dye 285 

Green  and  Pink,  to  dye 284 

Green  Aniline  Dyes 2598,  &c. 

Green- Anise  Water,  to  distill..  1071 
1073. 

Green  Bengal  Lights 2072 

Green  Cement 2186 

Green  Coloring  for  Oils 5384 

Green  Copying  Paper 1948 

Green  Dye  for  Cottons.  161,  &c.,  188 

Green  Dye  for  Feathers 326 

Green  Dye  for  Ivory 1989 

Green  Dye  for  Leather 6351 


Gout  Paper 5237    Green  Dye  for  Parchment 1969 

Gout,  Pills  for  5182,  5187,  5196,  5318    Green  Dye  for  Silks. .  .276,  &c.,  317 

Gout,  Poultice  for 5035    Green  Dye  for  Woods 2830 

Gout,  Preventive  against 5214  |  Green  Dye  for  Woolens. .  .206,  &c., 

Gout,  Wine  for 5408!     226,318. 


Green  Enamels 2383 

Green  Fire 2078,  &c.,  2111 

Green  Fly  on  Plants,  to  remove,  1851 

1854. 
Green  Foil  for  Imitation  Gems. 2451 

Green  Glazing 2407 

Green  Hair-oil 1235 

Green  Ink 2495 

Green  Lights 2115,  2122 

Green  Marbling  for  Books  3111,  3113 
Green  Mould,  to  remove,  from 

Bricks 2809 

Green  Mountain  Salve 5345 

Green  Oil 5385 

Green  Pigments 2691,  2701,  2710 

Green  Salve 4970,  4973 

Green  Sealing  Wnx 2324 

Green  Stain  for  Glass 2361 

Green  Stain  for  Marble 2042 

Green  Stain  for  Wood 2860 

Green,  to  color  Fat 1260 

Green  Varnish,  Transparent  ..2941 

Green  Vitriol 4146 

Gregory's  Powder 5211,  5414 

Gregory's  Pure  Muriatic  Acid.  3884 

Grey  Cement 2184,  2194 

Grey  Dye  for  Veneers 2841 

Grey  Dye  for  Woods 2836 

Griffin's  Tincture  for  Coughs.  .5234 
Grimault's  Matico  Injection. .  .5435 
Grimault's  Syrup  of  Horserad- 
ish  4688,4689 

Grindstones,'  Artificial. .  .6267,  6268 

Griudstones,  how  to  use 6271 

Gross'  Treatment  of  Burns 5516 

Grosvenor's  Tooth  Powder 1299 

Ground  Glass,  to  imitate. 2372,  6408 

Groves'  Chlorodync 5202 

Grub  in  Onions,  to  prevent 1856 

Gruene's  Gilding  and  Silvering' 

on  Silk 3599 

Gunincura,  Essence  of 4623 

Guaiacum,  Tincture  of ...  4505,  5441 

Guaincum,  Syrup  of 4676 

Guanidine 4015 

Guanino .' 4015 

Guano,  Artificial 1825,  1828 

Guano,  Liquid 1824 

Guignolet 795 

Gum  Arabic,  to  keep,  from 

Moulding 6381 

Gum,  Chewing 0317 

Gum  Syrup 1371 

Gums,  Anti-scorbutic'Dentifrice 

for  the .' 1306,  1310 

Gums,  Sore,  Lotion  for 1156 

Gums,  to  preserve  the 5866 

Gums,  Ulcerated,  Lotion  for. .  .5461 
Gums,  Washes  to  harden  the..  1328 

Gum-Tragacanth.  Test  for 4384 

Gumming  in  Fruit  Trees.tocure  1873 
Gun,  Scattering,  to  remedy  a.  .6299 
Gun-Barrels  to  blue 3263 


to  brown 3828 

to  clean 3304 

to  ornament 3'264 

to   protect,  from 


Gun-Barrels 
Gun-Barrels 
Gun-Barrels 
Gun-Barrels 

Sea-air. ... '. 3305 

Gun-Barrels,  Varnish  for 2954 

Gun-Cotton 2141 

Gun-Cotton  Filter 18 

Gun-Cotton  for  Collodion 4743 

Gun  Metal 3348 

Gunpowder 2140 

Gunpowder,  Burns  from,  Treat- 
ment of 5523 

Gunter's  Chain 5995 

Gutta-Percha  Cement .  ..2247,  2256 
Gutta-Percha,  Cement  to  unite, 

to  Silk,  &c 2250 

Gutta-Percha,  Cement  to  unite, 

to  Leather 2251 

Gutta-Percha  Filling  for  Teeth,5880 
Gutta-Percha  Moulds,  to  make,3681 
Gutta-Percha  Moulds,    to   pre- 
pare, for  Electrotyping 3689 

Gutta-Percha  Oil-varnish 2888 

Gutta-Percha  Solution,  clear.  .2946 

Gutta-Percha,  Solvents  for 2947 

Gutta-Percha  Tissue 6360 

Gutta-Percha,  to  bleach 1725 

Gutta-Percha,  to  clean C348 

Gutta-Percha,  to  dye C347 


583        GUT— HAR 

Gutta-Percha,  White 5881 

Gypsum,  see  PLASTER  OF  PARIS. 

Haerlem  Drops 5342 

Hager's  Vermin  Ointment 5395 

Hahnemann's  Test  for  Lead  in 

Wine 4402 

Hair,  Black  Powder  for  the 1103 

Hair,  Blonde  Powder  for  the. . .  1104 
Hair,  Depilatoriesforremovingl219 
Hair,  Pomades  for  Strengthen- 
ing the 1279,  &c. 

Hair,  Prepared  Bran  for  the. . .  1102 
Hair,  Rose  Bandoline  for  the..  11 95 

Hair,  to  bleach 1214 

Hair,  to  change  the  Color  of. .  .1215 

Hair,  to  dry  a  Lady's  .••. 1197 

Hair  Brushes  and  Combs,  to 

clean 416 

Hair-Cleansing  Liquids 1187 

Hair-Coloring 1216 

Hair-Cosmetics,  Caution  about,  1286 

Hair-Curling  Liquids 1191 

Hair-Darkening  Preparations  .1183 

Hair-Dyes 1198,  &c. 

Hair-Dye,  Black 1201,  6401 

Hair-Dye,  Black,  to  use 1202 

Hair-Dye,  Blonde 1206 

Hair-Dye,  Brown 1211,  &c. 

Hair-Dye,  Caution  in  applying.  1213 

Hair-Dye,  Flaxen 1206 

Hair-Dye,  Pyrogallic 1200 

Hair-Dye,  Red 1204 

Hair-Dye,  Walnut 1199 

Hair-Dye,  Yellow 1208,  &c. 

Hair-Dye  Stains,  to  remove...  385 

Hair-Gloss 1196 

Hair-Oils,  Cheap 1249 

Hair-Oil,  Colorless 1231 

Hair-Oil  for  Strengthening  the 

Hair 1250,  &c. 

Hair-Oil,  French 1244 

Hair-Oil,  to  color 1232 

Hair-Oil,  to  perfume 1230 

Hair-Restorer 1217 

Hair-Tonic 1180 

Hair- Varnish 2892 

Hair- Washes 1177,  &c. 

Hair- Wash,  Cleansing 1187,  &c. 

Hair- Wash,  Curling 1191 

Hair- Wash,  Darkening. . .  1183,  &c. 

Hair- Wash,  Drying 1194,  1197 

Hair- Wash.  Restorative..  1177, 1179 

Hair- Wash,  Softening 1186 

Hair- Wash,  Strengthening 1180 

Half-Hitch  Knot,  Double 0264 

Hall's  Dinner  Pills 5181 

Hall's  Solution  of  Strychnia 5354 

Halls,  Stone,  to  clean 428 

Hamburg  Bitters 828 

Hamburg  Tea 5418 

Hamilton's  Tincture  of  Dog- 
wood,   .' 4553 

Hams,  Pickle  for 1603,  1(508 

Hams,  to  cure 1606 

Hams,  to  preserve 1613 

Hams,  to  smoke 1600 

Handles  of  Knives,  to  keep,  from 

Cracking 6323 

Hands,  Cacao  Pomade  forthc.  .1136 

Hands,  Chapped,  to  euro 5822 

Hands,  to  prevent,  from  Chap- 
ping   r>822 

Hands,  to  remove  Stains  from 

the 387,  2566,  3141 

Hard  and  Soft  Soap 520 

Hard  Soap,  to  make  520,  &c.,  582,  &c. 

Hard  Soap,  to  pulverize ' 619 

Hard  Soldering 3488,  &c. 

Hardwich's  Photographic  Ton- 
ing Bath 3184 

Hare's  Colorless  Photograph 

Varnish 2932 

Hare's  Pyrophorus 4342 

Harlaud's  Gonorrhoea  Reme- 
dies   5731,  5732 

Harmalino 4009 

Harmine 4009 

Harness,  Blacking  for 3081,  &c. 

Harness  Blacking,  to  apply  . .  .3085 
Harness,  Cement  for  Joining  .  .2245 

Harness,  ,Tct  for 307!) 

Harness,  Polish  for 3075  j 


HAR — HOM 

Harness,  to  clean 3074 

Harness,  to  preserve, 3074 

Harness,  to  restore  the  Lustre 

of 3066 

Harness,  to  soften,  when  Hard  3067 

Harness,  Varnish  for 2966 

Harrogate  Water 4466 

Hartshorn,  to  purify 1293 

Harvey's  Sauce 1758 

Hat-Bfack  Dye  for  Silks 240 

Hats,  Alkali  Stiffening  for 336 

Hats,  Spirit  Stiffening  for 335 

Hats,  to  dye 334 

Hausmann's  Indestructible  Ink  2527 

Hay  Fever,  Treatment  of 5591 

Hayes'  Pile  Liniment 5219 

Headache,  Essence  for 5229 

Headache,  Remedies  for.  .5702,  &c. 

Heading  for  Beer 876 

Healing  Paper 5059 

Healing  Salve 4971 

Health  Pills 5188,  5199 

Heart,  Palpitation  of,  to  relieve,5766 

Heartburn,  Treatment  of 5690 

Heat,  Amount  of,  for  boiling 

Syrups 1361 

Heat  conducting  Power  of  Build- 
ing Materials 6125 

Heavy  Spar 2697 

Heliotrope,  Eau  do 1003 

Hellebore,  American,  Fluid  Ex- 
tract of 4575 

Hellebore,  American,  Tincture 

of 4496,  4515 

Hellebore,  Black,  Fluid  Extract 

of 4575 

Hellebore,  Black,  Tincture  of  .4506 

Hemlock,  Fluid  Extract  of 4578 

Hemlock  Liniment 4859 

Hemlock,  Oil  of 4752 

Hemlock  Poultice 5034 

Hemlock  Salve 4969 

Hemlock,  Syrup  of,  Compound. 4681 

Hemlock,  Tincture  of 4489 

Hemorrhage,  Prepared  Cotton 

for 5560 

Hemorrhage,  Solution  for.  4816,  5429 
Hemorrhage,  Treatment  of  5556,  &c. 

Hemp,  Tincture  of 4485 

Hempseed  Oil,  Tests  for.  .1497, 1498 

Henbane,  Fluid  Extract  of 4574 

Henbane,  Oil  of 4752 

Henbane,  Tincture  of 4511 

Henderson's  Lotion  for  Corns.  .5329 

Henry's  Aromatic  Vinegar 1086 

Henry's  Magnesia 5230 

Herbarium,  to  form  a 6176 

Herb  Drink  for  Fevers 5136 

Herbs,  Soup,  Extract  of 1044 

Herbs,  to  extract  Essential  Oil 

from 46 

Herbs,  to  gather  and  dry 6240 

Herbs,  to  preserve,  for  Perfum- 
ery  1349 

Hermetical  Sealing  for  Bottles. 2238 

Heusler's  Red  Ink 2498 

Heyle's  Horse  Embrocation  . .  .5222 
Hickory-Nut  Flavoring  for  Li- 
quors   671 

Higgins'  Stucco 2201 

High  Wine 1435 

Hill's  Balsam  of  Honey 5231 

Hirzel's  Mode  of  Preserving 

Fats 1515 

Hive  Syrup 5273 

Hoarseness,  Cure  for 5617,  &c. 

Hoarseness,  Syrup  for 5249 

Hoarseness,  to  prevent 5621 

Hock  Syrup 1423 

Hodgen's  Stomnch-Pump 5917 

Hoffmann's  Aniline  Purple 2608 

Hoffmann's  Anodyne 4749 

Hoffmann's  Life  Balsam 5112 

Hogg's  Pepsine  Pills 5460 

Hog's  Lard,  sec  LAUD. 

Hogs,  Live,  Weight  of  Pork  in  6129 

Hogs,  to  drive  Fleas  from 1913 

Holland,  Weights  and  Measures 

of 6090 

Holland  Linen,  Sizing  for 6328 

Tlolloway's  Ointment 5368 

Holloway's  Pills 5369 

Ilomberg's  Pyrophorus 4341 


HOM — HTD 

Home-Made  Champagne.  .730,  6417 

Home-Made  Soap 549,  551 

Home-Made  Tallow  Candles. ..  631 

Home-Macle  Wines 727,  &o. 

Homoeopathic  Cholera  Prevent- 
ive  5671 

Homoeopathic  Cholera  Remedy  5672 
Homoeopathic  Mustard  Plaster  5056 
Hones,  Lubricators  for. .  .6270,  6272 

Hones,  to  face 6274 

Honey 1565,  &c. 

Honey  and  Almond  Paste 1134 

Honey,  Artificial...  1572,  1574,  6416 

Honey,  Balsam  of 5093,  5231 

Honey,  Cosmetic  Balsam  of  . .  .1121 

Honey,  Cuba 1573 

Honey  of  Borax 4695 

Honey  of  Roses 4694 

Honey  of  Violets 4696 

Honey,  Test  for 1576 

Honey,  to  clarify 1569,  &c.,  4693 

Honey,  to  purify 1566,  &c. 

Honey  Water 1006 

Honey  Wine 733 

Honey-Soap,  Imitation 561 

Honey-Soap,  to  make 560 

Honeysuckle  Pomade 1263 

Hoof,  Cracked,  Ointment  for  ..5002 

Hooks  and  Eyes,  to  silver 3608 

Hooper's  Female  Pills 5382 

Hope's  Camphor  Mixture 5387 

Hope's  Cough  Mixture 5611 

Hops,  Fluid  Extract  of 4594 

Hops,  Tincture  of 4510 

Horehound,  Balsam  of  ...5092,  5367 

Horn 2012 

Horn,  to  dye 2013 

Horn,  to  imitate   Tortoiseshell 

with 2016 

Horn,  to  polish 2019 

Horn,  to  prepare 2014 

Horn,  to  silver 3628 

Horn,  to  unite 2615,  2018 

Hornet  Stings,  to  cure 5927 

Horsemint,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Horseradish,  Syrup  of 4688 

Horseradish,  Syrup  of,   lodin- 

ized 4689 

Horseradish  Vinegar .1773 

Horseradish  Water,  to  distill.  .1071 
1073. 

Horse  Liniment 4896,  5222 

Horses,  to  banish  Fleas  from..  1913 

Horses,  to  keep  Flies  from 1924 

Horsley's  Chlorodyne 5205 

Hortus  Siccus,  to  form  a 6176 

Hot  Drops 5179 

Hot  Drops  for  Beer 891 

Hot-Houses,  Substitute  for  Glass 

for 1887 

House-Painting 2745,  &c.,  2756 

House-Painting,  Flatting  for.  .2753 
House-Painting,  Inside  Work  2751 
House-Painting,  Outside  Work.2749 
House-Painting,  Preparing  for.  2746 
House-Painting,  when  to  do. ..2755 

Houses,  Old,  to  paint 2773 

Hubbell's  Creain  Syrup 1428 

Hubbell's  Extract  of  Culisaya.  .4706 

Hubbell's  Wine  of  Iron 4705 

Huckleberry  Wine 728 

Hudson's  Cold  Cream 1126 

Hufeland's  Anti-catarrh  Elixir,5447 

Hufeland's  Aperient  Elixir 5446 

Hufeland's  Diuretic  Drops 5311 

Hufeland's  Infant  Powder 5450 

Hufeland's  Pectoral  Elixir 5445 

Hufeland's  Zinc  Cerate 5379 

Huile  a  1'Ambre 1240 

Huile  a  la  Vanille 1239 

Huile  d' Ambergris 1240 

Huile  Musqufe 1236 

Huile  Royale 1237 

Huiles,  French 1244 

Hungarian  Liniment 4867,  5473 

Hungarian  Pomade 1287 

Hunter's  Bougie 6370 

Hunter's  Red  Drop 5411 

Husson,  Eau  Meaicinale  de...5208 
Hyacinth  Roots,  to  preserve. . .  1888 
Hyacinths,  to  raise,  in  Winter  1840 
Hydrangea  Cuttings,  to  man- 
age  1842 


HYD— IND 


INI) — INK 


INK—  HtO          533 


Hydrangea  Flowers,  to  make,         I  India-Rubber  Glue . . . . 2293 

Hydrate  of  Alumina 4257 

Hydrate  of  Chloral 4276 

Hydrate  of  Chloral,  Syrup  of.  .4679 
Hydrate  of  Chloral,  to  adminis 


ter. 


4746 
Hydrate  of  Chloral,  to  purify.. 4278 

Hydrate  of  Lime 3994 

Hydrate  of  Phenyle 3916 

Hydrate  of  Potassa 3976,  4192 

Hydrate  of  Soda 3979 

Hydraulic  Cement 2174 

Hydriodates 3970,  4326 

Hydriodate  of  Quinine 4264 

Hvdriodatc  Solution  for  Photo- 


gra 


.3183 


Hydriodic  Acid 3970 

Hydriodic  Acid.  Dilute 3972 

Hydriodic  Acid,  to  obtain. . .  .3971 
Hydrobromates,  see  BROMIDES. 

Hy drobromic  Acid 4261 

Hydrochlorates,  see  MURIATES. 
Hydrochloric  Acid,  see  MURI- 

ATIC  ACID. 

Hydrocyanates 3947 

Hydrocyanic  Acid,  see  Pitussic 

ACID. 

Hydroferridcyanic  Acid 3954 

Hydro ferrocyanic  Acid 3956 

Hydrofluorates 3960 

Hydrofluoric  Acid 3960 

Hydrogen 4041 

Hydrogen,   Carburetted 4048 

Hydrogen,  Phosphuretted 4055 

Hydrogen,  Sulphuretted. 3870,  4052 

Hydrogen,  Tests  for 4047 

Hydrogen,  to  obtain 4042,  &c. 

Hydrographic  Paper 1976 

Hydrometers,    Standard 53,  &c. 

Hydrometers,  sec  AUEOMETEKB. 
Hydrophobia,  Cures  for.. 5920,  &c. 

Hydrophobia,  to  prevent 5923 

Hydrophobia,  Treatment  of. ..5919 
Hydrosulphate  of  Ammonia. . .  1203 
Hydrosulphides.  See  HYDRO- 

SOLrHORETS. 

Hydrosulphuret  of  Ammonia.. 1203 
Hydrosulphuret  of  Ammonia, 

Solution  of 4803 

Jlydrosulphurct  of  Ammonium4228 

Hydrosulphuric  Acid 3870 

Hydrochloric  Ether 4290 

Hydrochlorite  of  Lime. .   4245 

Hypochlorite  of  Soda  Solution  4788 
Hypochondriasis,  Treatment  of  5577 

Hyponitric  Acid 3872 

Hyponitrous  Acid  Disinfectant  1697 
Hypophosphites,  Compound  Sy- 
rup of 4643,  &c. 

Hypophosphito  of  Iron 4642 

Hypophosphoric  Acid 3928 

Hyposulphite  of  Lime 4248 

Hyposulphite  of  Soda 4211 

Hyssop  Water,  to  distill,  1071,  1073 

Ice,  Camphor 1132 

Ice,  to  keep,  in  Summer 1691 

Igneous  Fusion 19 

Ignition 3850 

Imitations,  see  ARTICLE  IMITATED. 

Inperial  Peach  Brandy 786 

Imperial  Pop 900 

Imperial  Weights    and   Mea- 
sures  6031,    &c. 

Implements  for  Gilding1    on 

Wood 3557 

Incense .1346,  &c, 


Inches  Compared  with  Metres. 5977 
Inches,  Decimal  Equivalents  of5'.)79 
Incontinence  of  Urine,  to  cure  5743 
Incrustations,  see  BOILEII  I\- 

CIIU8TATIOXS. 

Indelible  Inks 2508,  &c. 

Indelible  Ink  Stains,  to  remove.  129 
385,  6340. 

Indelible  Marking  Ink 2508,  &.c. 

Indelible  Printing  Ink 2546 

Indelible  Writing  Fluid 2489 


Indestructible  Inks 2526,  &c. 

India  Japanning 3038,  &c. 

India  Nut-oil,  Test  for 1497 


India-Rubber  Oil  Varnish  2886,  &c. 
India-Rubber  Over-shoes,  to 

mend 2258,  6374 

India-Rubber,  Solvents  for 2947 

India- Rubber  Spirit-varnish  . .  2949 
2952. 

India-Rubber,  to  dissolve 2248 

India-Rubber,  to  join,  to  Wood 

or  Metal 2253 

India-Rubber  Tubing,  to  ren- 
der, Gas-tight 4033 

Indian  Cathartic   Pills 5303 

Indian  Curry  Powder 1760 

Indian  Dysentery  Cure 5676 

Indian  or  Chinese  Ink 2515 

Indian  Ink    Sketches,  to  pro- 


tect. 


.6363 


Indian  Liniment 5228 

Indian  Pickle  1805 

Indian  Red 2718 

Indian  Remedy  for  Rhenmatism5536 

Indian  Turnip  Poultice 5028 

Indian  Vegetable  Pills 5186 

Indian  White  Fire 2104 

Indigo-Blue  Dye  for  Yarn 130 

Indigo  Extract 99 

Indigo,  Solution  of 4791 

Indigo,  Solvents  for 2619,  3858 

Indigo,  Sulphate  of 98,  4791 

Inexhaustible  Smelling  Salts.. 1093 

Inextinguishable  Match 2061 

Infant  Powder 5450 

Infant  Preservative 5352 

Infants,  Diarrhoea  in,  to  cure. 5661 
5666. 

Infection,  to  prevent 1707,  1708 

Inflamed  Parts,  Lotion  for 4823 

Inflammation  of  the  Ear,  Rem- 
edy for 5813 

Inflammation  of  the  Throat,  see 
GARGLES. 

Influenza,  Mixture  for 5623 

Infusion 37 

Infusions,  to  prepare 38 

Infusion,  Diuretic 5148 

Infusion  of  Bark 5128 

Infusion  of  Calumba 5121 

Infusion  of  Roses 4739 

Infusion,  Tonic 5120 

Infusion,  to  perfume  Oils  by. .  .1228 
Infusion,  to  perfume  Pomades 

by 1262 

Infusion  to  produce  Sweating.  5K!8 

Ingall's  lodoform  Ointment 4992 

Inhalation  of  Cubebs  and  Car- 
bolic Acid 5606 

Inhalation  of  Tar 5G13 

Injection  for  Gonorrhoea  5435,  5438 

5439. 
Injection,  to  salt  Meat  by. . .  .1604 

Ink 24RO,  <tc,  (5406 

Ink,  Aniline 2497,  2511 

Ink  Blots,  to  remove 2507,  6393 

Ink,  Colored,  sec  COLOR  desired. 

Ink,  Copying 2520 

Ink,  Drawing 2531 

Ink  Eraser,  Improved 6393 

Ink  for  Hand-stamps 2532 

Ink  for  Marking  Packages. . .  .2521 

Ink  for  Tombstones 2516 

Ink  for  Writing  on  Silver 2525 

Ink  for  Writing  on  Tin 6365 

Ink  for  Writing  on  Zinc 2523 

Ink,  Indelible  Marking.. 2489,  2509 

<tc.,  2532. 

Ink,  Indelible,  to  remove  Stains 
of 385,6340 


Ink,  Indestructible 2526,  <tc. 

Ink,  Lithographic 2547 

Ink,  Permanence  of 2475 

Ink  Powder 2474 

Ink,  Printers' 2543 

Ink,  Printers',  to  remove 404 

Ink,  Stenciling 6366 

Ink,  Sympathetic 2533,   &c. 

Ink,  to  keep,  from  thickening.  .2470 
Ink.  to  prevent,  from  moulding  24G2 
Ink,  to  remove,  from  Books...  41" 


Ink,  Writing 24C1,  &c. 

Ink-Rollers,  Composition  for.  .2541 
Ink-Rollers,  to  clean 2542,  6337 


India-Rubber.  Cement  to  join. 2255  j  Ink-Stains  on  Floors,  to  remove  392 


'  Ink-Stains  on  Linen,  <fec..  to  re- 
move  375,  379,  384 

Ink-Stains  on  Mahogany,  to  re- 
move  389,  &o. 

Ink-Stains   on  Marble,  to   re- 
move   402,  515 

Ink-Stains  on  Silver,  to  remove.  3236 

Inlaid  Brass,  to  polish 2982 

Inscriptions  on   Old  Coins,  to 

develop 6237 

Insect  Bites  and  Stings,  to  cure  5927 
Insects  on  Plants,  to  destroy..  1845 

Insects,  Soap  to  destroy 580 

Insects,  to  destroy 1900,  1908 

Insects,  to  mount,  for  the  Mi- 
croscope   0179 

Insects,  to  preserve 1676 

Intermittent  Fever,  Remedy  for  5756 
Invisible-Green  Dye  for  Wool- 
ens   227 

lodatcs 3968 

lodic  Acid 3968,  3969 

Iodides 3970,  4326 

Iodide  of  Ammonium 4225 

Iodide  of  Cadmium 4262 

Iodide  of  Iron 4161 

Iodide  of  Iron,  Liquor  of 4703 

Iodide  of  Iron  Pills 4915,  4930 

Iodide  of  Lead 4103 

Iodide  of  Lead  Ointment 4991 

Iodide  of  Potassium 4203 

Iodide  of  Potassium,  Glycerin- 
ated  5013 

Iodide  of  Potassium,  Lotion  of.  1143 

1144. 
Iodide  of  Potassium,  Glycero- 

Pomade  of 5373 

Iodide  of  Potassium,  Solution  of  4779 
Iodide  of  Potassium,  Syrup  of, 

with  Iron 4663 

Iodide  of  Sodium 4216 

Iodide  of  Sulphur  Ointment 4950 

Iodine 4326,  4327 

Iodine,  Caustic 5077 

Iodine,  Glycerinated 5015 

Iodine  Green  Aniline  Dye 2600 

Iodine  Lotion 4851 

Iodine  Lotion,  Glycerinated..  1144 
Iodine  Lotion,  for  the  Skin . . .  1143 
Iodine  Ointment,  Com  pound..  4942 

Iodine  Paint 5077 

Iodine,  Solution  of 5421' 

Iodine,  Tests  for 4329 

Iodine,  Tincture  of 4491 

Iodine,  Tincture  of,  Compound  4570 
Iodine,  to  dissolve,  in  Cod-liver 

Oil 4328 

Iodine,  to  prevent,  from  Staining5078 

Iodine-Stains,  to  remove 371 

Iodized  Paper  for  Photography  3171 

lodofonn  Ointment :  4992 

lodurets,  see  IODIDES. 
loduretted  Gaseous  Water  4477,4478 
Ipecacuanha,  Fluid  Extract  of  4575 
4599. 

Ipecacuanha,  Syrup  of 4651 

Ipecacuanha,  Syrup    of,  Com- 
pound  4682 

Iridescent  Paper 1931 

Irish  Whiskey,   Imitation 690 

Iron 3258 

Iron,  Acetate  of 4159 

Iron,  Ammonio-citratc  of 4162 

Iron,  Ammonio-pyrophosphato 

of 4737 

Iron  Bath-tubs,  to  paint 6219 

Iron  Beams,  Weight  of 6145 

Iron,  Boiler,   Weight  of 6142 

Iron,  Brown  Tint  for 3262 

Iron,  Carbonate  of,  Saccharine  4 163 

Iron,  Carburet   of 4164 

Iron,  Cast,  to  bronzo 3261,  3791 

Iron,  Cast,  to  scour 3271 

Iron,  Cast,  to  solder 3515 

Iron,  Cements  for 2216,  <fec. 

Iron,  Cement  to  join  Leather  to  2259 
Iron,  Cement  to  join  Stone  to.  .2211 

2215,  2222. 
Iron,  Chlorides  of...  117,  4165,  4166 

Iron,  Citrate  of 4160 

Iron,  Composition  for  Welding  3523 

Iron,  Fcmdcyanide  of 41C9 

Iron,  Ferrocyanide  of 41CT 


584: 


Iron  Filings  ..................  3265 

Iron,  Flux  tor  Soldering.  3477,  3531 
Iron,  Flux  for  Welding  .......  3531 

Iron,  Hypophosphito  or  .......  4642 

Iron,  Iodide  of  ................  4161 

Iron,  Lacquer  for  .............  3059 

Iron  Liquor  ..................  118 

Iron  Lustre  for  Pottery  .......  2416 

Iron,  Mixture  of,  Aromatic  ----  4712 

Iron,  Mixture  of,  Compound.  .  .5248 
Iron-Mould,  to  remove  .....  375,  &c. 

Iron-Mould,  to   remove,    from 

Marble  .....................  402 

Iron,  Muriates  of  ..............  4165 

Iron,  Nitrates  of  .....  116,  4171,  &c. 

Iron  Ores,  Percentage  of  Iron  in3259 
Iron,  Oxalate  of  ...............  4158 

Iron,  Oxides  of.  .....  4151,  4153,  &c. 

Iron,  Phosphate  of  ............  4631 

Iron  Pills,  Compound  .........  4916 

Iron  Plates,  Weight  of  .......  G140 

Iron,  Polished,  to  case-harden.  3300 
Iron  Pyrites  .................  4148 

Iron,  Pyrophosphate  of  ........  4737 

Iron  Quinia  and  Strychnia,  Sy- 

rup of  ......................  4648 

Iron  Railings,  to  preserve  ----  3270 

Iron  Sand  for  Fire  works  ......  2105 

Iron,  Sheet,  Weight  of  ........  6141 

Iron,  Solder  for  ..........  3512,  3516 

Iron  Stains,  to  remove  127,  375,  &c. 
Iron,  Sulphate  of  ............  ,  .4146 

Iron,  Sulphurets  of  .......  4053,  4147 

Iron,  Tannate  of  ..............  4170 

Iron,  Test  for  Galvanized  .....  3758 

Iron,  Test  for,  in  Solutions  ____  4100 

Iron,  to  case-harden  ......  3297,  &c. 

Iron,  to  clean  .................  3272 

Iron,  to  coat,  with  Copper  3635,  &c. 

3756. 
Iron,  to  coat,  with  Silver.  3608,  3610 

3715. 

Iron,  to  coat,  with  Tin.  .  .3638,  &c. 
Iron,  to  coat,  with  Zinc..  3649,  3757 
Iron,  to  color  ............  3188,  3313 

Iron,  to  convert,  into  Steel  3274,  3277 
Iron,  to  distinguish,  from  Steel.  3260 
Iron,  to  electro-gild  on  ........  3731 

Iron,  to  electroplate  on  ........  3711 

Iron,  to  galvanize  .............  3649 

Iron,  to  keep,  bright  ..........  3267 

Iron,  to  prepare,  for  Coating 

with  Copper  ................  3756 

Iron,  to  prepare,  for  Tinning..  3641 
Jron,  to  prevent,  from  Rusting  3268 
Iron,  to  remove  Rust  from  ----  3266 

Iron,  to  solder  ...........  3485,  3510 

Iron,  to  tin,  for  Soldering  .....  3514 

Iron,  to  weld  ..................  3523 

Iron,  Varnish  for  .............  2956 

Iron  Vessels,  to  tin  ...........  3638 

Iron,  Wine  of.  ................  4705 

Iron,  Wine  of.  Aromatic  ......  4708 

Iron,  Wine  of,  Bitter  ____  4704,  4707 

Iron-  Ware,  White  Enamel  for.  2403 
Iron-  Work,  Black  Varnish  for  2900 
Iron-Work,  Paint  for  .........  27G8 

Iron-Work,  Priming  for  .....  -.  .2747 

Iron,  Wrought,  Weight  of.  .  .  .0144 

Ironing  Clothes,  Directions  for  503 
Irritating  Plaster  .............  5062 

Irritation,  Cazenavo's  Lotion  to 
allay  .............  1153,  1158,  &c. 

Isinglass  Glue  ..........  2283,   2292 

Isinglass  for  fining  Wines  ____  716 

Isinglass,  to  fmo   Wines  with    743 
Issue  Ointment  ...............  5284 

Italian   Method  of   Bleaching 
Wax  .......................  1581 

Italian  Tamara  ...............  1761 

Italian  Varnish  ...............  2896 

Itch,  Baker's,  Remedy  for  .....  5484 

Itch,  Benzine  for  the  ..........  5481 

Itch,  Cure  for  the  .............  5480 

Itch,  Prairie,  Remedy  for  .....  5479 

Itch,  Ointment  for  the..  .4954,  4999 

5239,  5243,  5322. 

Itch,  Seven  Years,  Remedy  for  5479 
Ivory,  Artificial  .........  8010,  3180 

Ivory  Black  ..................  2719 

Ivory,  Cement  for  .............  2247 

Ivory,  Etching    on  ............  2002 

Ivory,  Flexible  ...............  1994 


KEA — LAC 


'  Ivory,  Marking  Fluid  for 2001  !  Keating's  Cough  Lozenges 5346 

I  Tyorv-Si/e  2009    "I7"""«"'"  "**"«—KI«  /',,,-.,..,.+  tuw  i, 

|  Ivory,  to.  bleach 1997,  <fec. 

Ivory,  to  clean 2007 

Ivory,  to  dye,  see  COLOR  to  be  dyed. 
Ivory,  to  dye,  when  softened.  .1995 


Keene's  Marble  Cement 2209 

Keller's  Armenian  Cement 2153 

Keller's  Bronze 3348 

Kelp 4208,   4330 

Kermes  Mineral 5467 


Ivory,  to  gild 2005  j  Kerosene,  Cause  of  Explosion 

Ivory,  to  polish 2000 


Ivory,  to  silver 2006 

Ivory,  to  whiten,  when  Yellow  1998 

Ivory  Veneers,  to  glue  on 2297 

Ivy,  Poison,  Remedies  for 5930 

Jackson's  Cure   for    Rheuma- 
tism  5538 

Jackson's  Neuralgia  Remedy.  .5547 

Jackson's  Pectoral  Syrup. 5265 

Jacobson's  Red  Aniline  Dyes.. 2612 
Jalap  and  Senna,  Fluid  Extract 

of 4603 

Jalap,  Fluid  Extract  of 4575 

Jalap,  Tincture  of 4559 

Jamaica  Ginger,  Essence  of. .  .4620 

Jamaica  Rum,  Imitation 702 

James'  Oil  of  Gladness 5344 

Japan  Black  Varnish  for  Lea- 
ther  2968,  29G9 

Japan  Blacking  for  Boots 3098 

Japan,  Chinese,  Ground  for 3039 

Japan,  Chinese,  to  raise  Figures 

on 3042 

Japan,  Chinese,  to  trace  Designs 

on 3041 

Japan  Dryer 2741 

Japan,  to  color,  Blue 3027 

Japan,  to  color,  Brown 3036 

Japan,  to  color,  Green 3030 

Japan,  to  color,  Orange 3031 

Japan,  to  color,  Pink 3033 

Japan,  to  color,  Purple 3034 

Japan,  to  color,  Red 3028 

Japan,  to  color,  Violet 3035 

Japan,  to  color,  White 3032 

Japan,  to  color,  Yellow 3029 

Japan,  to,  Fancy  Articles 3043 

Japan,  to  pild 3578 

Japan,  to,  Old  Tea-trays 3037 

Japan,  to,  Work  Boxes 3043 

Japan  Varnish 3022,  &c. 

Japan  Varnish,  to  color.. 3026,  <fec. 

Japanese  Cement 2159 

Japanese  Firework  Mixtures.. 2127 

Japanese  Ink 2473 

Japanese  Matches 2126 

Japanese  Wax,  to  detect  Bees'- 

waxin 1583 

Japanned  Waiters,  to  clean...  408 

Japanning 3018.&C. 

Japanning,  India  or  Chinese.  .3038 
Japanning,  to   prepare   Metal 

for 3019 

Japanning,  to   prepare   Wood 


for. 


.3020 


Jarave  Spanish 5331 

Jargonelle  Pear,  Essential  Oil 

of ..1470,4302 

Jasmin,  Esprit  Odorant  do 1004 

Jasmin  Pomade 1263 

Javelle  Water 4787,  6414 

Jean  Boots,  White,  to  clean. . .  453 

Jesuits'  Drops 5091, 5338 

Jet-Black  Dye  for  Cottons 139 

Jet-Blacking  for  Boots. .  .3079,  3089 

Jet-Blacking  for  Harness 3079 

Jewelers'  Cement 2152,  2229 

Jewelers'  Rouge 4154 

Jockey  Club  Bouquet 1064 

Joint  Closers  or  Caps,  Water- 
proof  1557 

Jonquil  Pomade 1263 

Joscau^  Copahinc-Mego 5366 

Journals  of  Machinery,  Alloy 

for 3430 

Juices,  Vegetable,  to  obtain. . .    45 

Julian  Year 6064 

Juniper,  Compound  Spirit  of. .  .5151 

Juniper,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Juniper-Berry,  Oil  of 4752 

Juniper-Berry  Water 1071,  1073 

Kalsomino 


of. 


.1530 


Kerosene,  Fire  Test 1527 

Kerosene,  to  clarify 1528 

Kerosene,  to  decolorize 1529 

Kerosene,  to  keep 6216 

Kerosene,  to  test 1531 

Kerosene   Lamps,  see  LAMPS. 

Kerosene   Vessels,  to  clean 1537 

Ketchups,  see  CATSUPS. 

Kettles,  Old  Copper,  to  tin 3646 

Kettles,  to  prevent  Crust  in.  ..6382 
Keyer's  Process  for  Purifying 

Oils 1511 

Kid  Boots,  to  clean 454 

Kid  Gloves,  to  clean 439 

Kid  Gloves,  to  protect,  from 

Perspiration 6243 

Kid  Gloves,  to  remove  Stains 

from 438 

Kid  Gloves,  Old,  to  clean  Silks 

with 456 

Kidneys,  Diseased,  to  cure. . .  .5742 
Kindlers,  Fire,  to  make.. 6205,  6402 

King's  Cordial 5227 

King's  Tooth  Paste 1322 

Kins-'a  Yellow 4356 

Kino,  Tincture  of 4512,  4556 

Kino,  Tincture  of,  Compound,  .4502 
4557. 

Kirchoffs  Vermilion 2681 

Kirkland's  Neutral  Cerate 5378 

Kirkland's  Tooth  Lotion 1332 

Kirschenwnsser 788 

Kissingen  Water,  Aerated 4443 

Kitchen  Garden  Receipts  1819,  &c. 
Kitchener's  Essence  of  Soup- 
herbs 1763 

Kitchener's  Peristaltic  Persua- 
der  5173 

Kitchener's  Sauce  Superlative.  1756 

Kitridge's  Salve 5372 

Knife-Handles,  to  keep,  from 

Cracking 6323 

Knives  and  Forks,  to  clean 421 

Knives  and  Forks,  to  keep,  in 

Order 422 

Knives,  to  fasten  the  Handles 

on 2221 

Knives,  toremove  Stains  from  6322 


Knots,  various,  to  tie. 


.6260 


Knots,  to  kill,  before  Pointing. 2777 
Knots  for  tying  down  Corks...  930 

Knots  for  tying  Parcels 6266 

Knot,  Binding 6263 

Knot,  Bowline 6265 

Knot,  Half,  or  Clove-hitch 6264 

Knot,  Reef 6262 

Knot,  Sheet  Bend, orW caver's.  6261 

Kreatine  4013 

Kreatinino  4013 

Kriedcr's  Ague  Pills 5581 

Kummel,  Doppel 769,  6292 

Kurten's  Soda  Lye 589 

Kustitien's  Metal  for  Tinning  3453 
Kyanize  Wood  or  Cordage,  to  .1681 


Labarraque's 
Fluid . 


Disinfecting 


Labarrnque's  Solution 4768 

Labels,  Emnnels  for 2401 

Labels,  for  Damp  Situations..  .6326 
Labels,  Indestructible  Ink  for  2526 

Labels,  Mucilage  for 2299,  2301 

Labels,  Zinc,  Ink  for 2524 

Labor-Saving  Soap 616 

Lac  Scarlet  Dye  for  Woolens..  200 

Lac,  to  bleach 1723 

Lac  Water- vnrnish 2940 

Lace,  Point,  to  wnsh 478 

Lace,  Silver  or  Gold,  to  clean..  414 

Lace,  Thread,  to  clean 473 

Lace,  to  clear-starch 501 

Lace-Veils,  Black,  to  wnsh 466 

Laeis-Vc-ilg,  White,  to  clean...  471 


Kalsomine,  to  prepare  .."..... '.2734  I  Lace,  White  Silk, 'to  wnsh...".   473 
Kalsomining. 2795  |  Lacquers  and  Lacquering. 3045,  ic. 


LAC — LEA 


LEA — LEN 


LEN— LIN        585 


Lacquer,  Black,  fur  Brass 3387 

Lacquer,  to  give  any  Tint  to..3Uti3 

LacUtes 3953 

L:\ctu  to  of  Iron,  Svrup  of 4661 

Lactic  Acid ". 3958 

Lactic  Acid,  to  obtain 3959 

Lactucarium,  Syrup  of 4066 

Ladies'  Summer  Suits,  towaah.G412 
Lahache's  Syrup  of  Iodide  of 

Potassium  and  Iron 4663 

Lait  Virginal 1138 

Lakes  used  for  Pigments.  .2083,  &c. 

Lamp,  Self-igniting 6389 

Lampblack 271"? 

Lamp-Chimneys,to  prevent,  from 

Cracking C373 

Lamps,  Kerosene,  Cement  for,  .C760 
Lamps,  Kerosene,  to  cement 

Sockets  on 1536 

Lamps,  Kerosene,  to  clean 15?3 

Lamps,  Kerosene,  to  keep,  from 

getting  Greasy 1535 

Lamps,  Kerosene,  to  manage.. 1534 
Lamps,  to  purify  Vegetable 

Oils  for 1494 

Lancon's  Paste  for  Artificial 

Gems 2426 

Land,  Level,  to  drain 1891 

Land  Measure,  Government, ..0984 
Langlois'  Process  for  Carmine. 2677 

Lapis  Divinus 529C 

Lapis  Lazuli,  Imitation C440 

Lapis  Miraculosus 5297 

Lard 525,  1518 

Lard,  Bcnzoated 1521 

Lard,  to  bleach 1522,  &c. 

Lard,  to  detect  Water  in 1520 

Lard,  to  purify 1253 

Lard,  to  trv  out 1519 

Lard  Candles,  to  make 636 

Lard  Oil,  to  detect,  in  Poppy 

Oil ".1498 

Lard  Ointment 4937 

Lardner's  Prepared  Charcoal.  .1294 

Lardncr's  Tooth  Powder 1294 

Larkin's  Bronzing  Fluids 3817 

Lartiguc's  Gout  Pills 519G 

Last,  English  Measure 6041 

Lasteyrie's  Lithographic  Cray- 
ons   1958 

Laudanum 4529,  5370,  54C8 

Laughing  Gas 3872,  40CO 

Laughing  Gas,  Test  for  Pure.  .4062 

Laughing  Gas,  to  prepare 4061 

Laurence's  Hemorrhage  Solu- 
tion   5429 

Laurence's  Styptic  Solution  ...5430 

Laurent's  Antiseptic  Soap 1671 

Lavender  Dye  for  Cottons 174 

Lavender  Dye  for  Silks 260 

Lavender,  Essence  of 973 

Lavender,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Lavender,  Essential  Oil  of,  Test 

for 1482 

Lavender,  Oil  of 1227 

Lavender  Pomade 1262 

Lavender  Water.C89,  <tc.,  1071, 1073 
Lavender  Water,  Ammoniacal  1098 
Lawns,  Printed,  to  preserve  the 

Colors  of 487 

Lawns,  to  destroy  Worms  in.  .1876 

Lawns,  to  kill  Moss  on 1865 

Lead 3253 

Lead,  Acetate  of 4101 

Lead,  Alloys  of 3419,  3426 

Lead  and  Tin  Alloys,  Melting 

Point  of 3459 

Lead,  Carbonate  cf 2693 

Lead,  Chloride  of 4102 

Lead,  Chromatcs  of 4104,  4105 

Lead,  Extract  of 4775 

Lead,  Flux  for  Soldering. 3482,  3531 
Lead  for  Cisterns,  Cautions 

about 3254 

Lead  for  Pencils 6197 

Lead,  Iodide  of 4103 

Lead,  Muriate  of 4102 

Lead,  Nitrate  of 4107 

Lead,  Ointment  of 4980 

Lead,  Oxides  of 2744,  4106 

Lead  Plaster 5043 

Lead,  Sheet,  Weight  of 6139 

Lead,  Solder  for 3506 


Lead,  Tests  for,  in  Solutions ..  4108 
Lead,  Test  for,  in  Wine.  .4402,  4403 

Lead,  to  electro-gild  on 3731 

Lead,  to  extract  Silver  from. .  .3210 
Lead,  to  separate  Bismuth  from  3346 
Lead,  to  separate,  from  Copper.  3242 

Lead,  White 2693 

Lead,  White,  to  test 2694,  &c. 

Lead  Colic,  to  cure 5693 

Lead  Ores,  Flux  for  Reducing  3464 
Lead  Ores,  to  test  the  Richness 

of 3255,3256 

Lead  Pipes,  Flux  for  Soldcring3531 
Lead  Poisons,  Antidotes  for. .  .5908 

Lead  Test  Paper 4416 

Lead  Tree,  to  make  a 3257 

Lead  Water  Pipes,  to  protect.  .6224 

Leaf  Gilding 3579 

Leake's  Pill  of  "  realth 5189 

Leaky  Skylights,  to  stop 6235 

Lea's  Solution  for  cleaning  Pho- 
tographic Glasses 3160 

Leather,  Blacking  f-  r 3086,  &c. 

Leather,  Cement  for 2245,  2256 

Leather,  Cement  to  join,  to  Gut- 
ta-percha   2254 

Leather,  Compressed C376 

Leather,  Dubbing  for 3078 

Leather,  GlycerineComposition 

for 3073 

Leather,  Invisible  Patches  on. 2256 
Leather,  Japan  Black  Varnish 

for 2968,2969 

Leather,  Morocco,  to  tan 643 

Leather,  Patent,  Polish  for.... 3072 
Leather,  Preservation  of.  .3065,  &c. 

Leather,  Russia,  to  tan 644 

Leather,  to  cement  Metal  to. .  .0230 

Leather,  to  clean 3076 

Leather,  to  dye 6350.  &c. 

Leather,  to  fasten,  on  Rollers.. 2958 
Leather,  to  join,  to  Steel,  &C...2259 
Leather,  to  make,  Waterproof  3069 
Leather,  to  paste,  on  Wood. .  .2276 
Leather,  to  remove  Oil  from. .  .3077 
Leather,  to  remove  Oil-stains 

from 359 

Leather,  to  restore  Softness  to. 3067 
Leather,  to  restore  the  Lustre 

of. 3066,  3068 

Leather,  to  silver 3629 

Leather  Belting,  Adhesive  for  6232 
Leather  Book-covers,  Marble 

for 3107 

Leaves,  Skeleton, to  bleach  6169,6171 
Leaves,  Skeleton,  to  prepare.. 6168 
6170. 

Le  Blond's  Varnish 2926 

Ledoycn's  Disinfecting  Solutionl703 
Leeches,  to  stop  Bleeding  from .  5557 
5567. 

Lee's  Antibilious  Pills 5175 

Lemery's  Lute  for  Stills  or  Re- 
torts  2265 

Leghorn  Dye  for  Cottons 158 

Le  Gros'  Itch  Ointment 5322 

Lemon  Beer 899 

Lemon,  Essence  of ...  955 

Lemon  Essence,  Artificial 1051 

Lemon  Extract 1031 

Lemon,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Lemon,  Essential  Oil  of,  to  keep 

Fragrant 1473 

Lemon.  Essential  Oil  of,  to  re- 
store the  Fragrance 1472 

Lemon  Ginger  Beer 901 

Lemon,  Perfumed  Oil  of 1227 

Lemon  Soda  Nectar 917 

Lemon  Syrup  for  Cordials 1375 

Lemon  Syrup  for  Soda- Water.  1387 
Lemonade,  Effervescing..  .906,  &c. 

Lemonade,  Manna 5247 

Lemonade,  Plain 909 

Lemonade,  Portable 915 

Lemonade  Powders 908,  916 

Lemon-Color  Dye  for  Cottons.  185 
Lemon-Color  Dye  for  Ivory...  1991 

Lemon-Juice,  Glycerinated 5458 

Lemon-Jnicp,  Imitation 911,  <fcc. 

Lemon-Juice,  to  keep 914 

Lenitive  Electuary 5154 

Le  Nonnand's  Table  Mustard.  178.) 
Lenses,  Substitutes  for 6384 


Lenses,  Transparent  Cement 

for 2236 

Leopard's  Bane,  Tincture  of. .  .4509 
Lettuce-Beds,  to  protect,  from 

Snails 1862 

Leucorrhoea,  Remedies  for  5725,  &c. 

Level  Sand,  to  drain 1891 

Liard  for  Lubrication 1543 

Libavius'  Fuming  Liquor 4 124 

Lice,  Body,  to  destroy 1920 

Lice  in  Children's  Heads,  to  de- 
stroy  1919 

Lice,  to  clear  Canary  Birds  of.  1921 

Lice,  to  clear  PonltrV  of 1922 

Liebig's  Extract  of  Meat 1609 

Liebig's  Flux 3467 

Liebig's  Non-poisonous  Oil  of 

Almonds 1512 

Liebig's  Silvering  on  Glass 3619 

Liefchild's  Patent  Blue 2617 

Life  Balsam,  Hoffmann's 5112 

Life-Root,  Fluid  Extract  of 4602 

Light,  Statistics  of 6122 

Lights,  Colored 21 12,  &c. 

Lightning  Ink  Eraser 6393 

Lilac  Dye  for  Cottons 169,  175 

Lilac  Dye  for  Feathers 327 

Lilac  Dye  for  Silks 262 

Lilac  Dve  for  Woolens 212 

Lilac  Fire 2085,   &c. 

Lilies,  White,  Oil  of 4752 

Lily  of  tho  Valley  Bouquet,  Im- 
itation   1067 

Lime 3993 

Lime,  Acetate  of 4244 

Lime,  Chloride  of 4245 

Lime,  Chlorinated 4245 

Lime,  Hydrate  of 3994 

Lime,  Hypochlorite  of 4245 

Lime,  Hyposulphite  of 4248 

Lime,  Milk  of 1 520 

Lime,  Muriate  of 4246 

Lime,  Nitrate  of 2223 

Lime,  Oxymuriatc  of 4245 

Lime,  Shell 3994 

Lime,  Tests  for 3995 

Lime,  to  obtain 3994 

Lime  Water 103,  4760 

Lime-juice,  Glycerinated 5458 

Linden-Flower  Water. . . .  1071,  1073 

Lineal  Measure 5975 

Lineal  Measure  compared  with 

Metrical 5976,  5977 

Lineal  Measure,  Old  French. .  .6051 

Linen,  Holland,  Sizing  for 6328 

Linen,  Scorched,  to  restore...  504 

Linen,  to  bleach 506 

Linen,  to  detect  Cotton  in 4401 

Linen,  to  detect  in  Mixed  Fab- 
rics   296 

Linen,  to  make  Starch  for 497 

Linen,  to  prepare  for  Embroi- 
dery   6229 

Linen,  to  remove  Fruit-stains 

from 365,  370 

Linen,  to  remove  Ink-stains  from  384 
Linen,  to  remove  Iron-mould 

from 379,  384 

Linen,  to  render,  Waterproof.  1561 

Liniments 4857,  &c 

Liniment,  Arnica 4864 

Liniment,  Balsam  of  Peru 5400 

Liniment,  Belladonna 4871,  4879 

Liniment,  Black  Oil 4872 

Liniment,  Cajeput 4890 

Liniment,  Camphor 4863 

Liniment,  Camphor,  Compound4880 

Liniment,  Canada 5280 

Liniment,  Cantharidcs...4874,  4891 
Liniment,  Chloroform,   Com- 
pound   4876 

Liniment  for  Chilblains. 58:«i,  5840 
Liniment  for  Horses  4861,  4873,4887 

4895,  5222. 

Liniment  for  Scalds  and  Burns  5472 
Liniment  for  Sprains  and  Bruis- 
es  4887 

Liniment  for  Wounds <8G8 

Liniment,  Good  Snmaritan4858,5283 

Liniment,  Hemlock 4859 

Liniment,  Hungarian. ..  .48(>7,  5473 
Liniment,  Hydrochloric  Acid.  .4875 
Liniment,  Indian 5223 


586  LIN— LIT 

Liniment,  London 4865 

Liniment,  Magic 4861 

Liniment,  Mexican  Mustang.. 5221 

Liniment,  Morphia 4860 

Liniment,  Mustard,  Compound  489: 

Liniment,  Mustard-oil 489' 

Liniment,  Neuralgia 5218,  5220 

Liniment,  Nerve  and  Bone4893, 5224 

Liniment,  Opium 4878 

Liniment,  Petroleum  4 877, 5402, 5836 

Liniment,  Pile 5219 

Liniment,  Rheumatic 4884 

Liniment,  Soap.... 4869,  5443,  6404 

Liniment,  Stimulating 4888 

Liniment,  Sulphuric  Acid 5399 

Liniment  Valuable 4866 

Liniment,  Volatile 488 1 

Liniment,  Whooping  Cough  ..5257 

Liniment,  Wonderful 4895 

Linseed  Oil,  Boiled. : 2727,  &c. 

Linseed  Oil,  Tests  for 1497 

Linseed  Oil,  to  clarify,  for  Var- 
nish  2869 

Linseed  Oil,  to  detect 1498 

Linseed  Oil,  to  prepare,  for  Var- 
nish  2868 

Linseed  Oil,  Wilk's  Refined. . .  2871 

Linseed  Poultice 5023 

Lint,  Medicated 5076 

Lip  Salve,  French 1174 

Lip  Salve,  German 1175 

Lip  Salve,  Glycerine 1173 

Lip  Salve,  Peruvian 1170 

Lip  Salve,  Red 1170 

Lip  Salve,  Rose ....1171 

Lip  Salve,  White 1172 

Lips,  Cacao  Pomade  for 1136 

Lips,  Cr6me  do  Psych6  for 1137 

Lips,  Pomade  Rosat  for 1135 

Liquation 21 

Liquefaction 22 

Liqueurs 767,  &c. 

Liqueur  dcla  Grande  Chartreuse, 
806,  6291. 

Liquid  Blue 4791 

Liquid  Boot  Blacking 3086,  &c. 

Liquid  Colors 2614,  &c. 

Liquid  Colors  for  Druggists2648,&c. 
Liquid  ColorsforMaps,&c.,2640,&c. 

Liquid  Glue 2383,  &c. 

Liquid  Gold 2518,  3195 

Liquid  Guano 1825 

Liquid,  Hair-curling 1191 

Liquid  Mannro 1824 

Liquid  Measure 5966 

Liquid  Measure  compared  with 

Apothecaries' 5967 

Liquid  Measure  compared  with 

Imperial 5968 

Liquid  Measure  compared  with 

Metrical 5969 

Liquid  Measure,  Imperial 6034 

Liquid  Measure,  Imperial,  com- 
pared with  U.  States 6035 

Liquid  Measure,  Imperial,  com- 
pared with  Litres 6036 

Liquid  Silver 2519 

Liquid  Spectroscopes 2364 

Liquids,  Boiling  Heat  of 6,  6133 

Liquids,  Statistics  of 6138 

Liquids,  to  find  the  Specific 

Gravity  of 49 

Liquids,  to  reduce,  to  a  given 

Density 6154 

Liquor,  Bleaching 104 

Liquor,  Cochineal 106 

Liquor,  Iron 118 

Liquor  of  Camphor 4611 

Liquor  of  Iodide  of  Iron 4703 

Liquor  of  Potassa 4784 

Liquor  of  Soda 4785 

Liquor,  Plumb Ill 

Ijqnor,  Red 100 

Liquorice,  Fluid  Extract  of 4595 

Liquors,  Flavorings  for 664,  &c. 

Liquors  for  Shampooing 1189 

Liquors,  Imitation 663 

Liquors,  Syrups  for 1369 

Liquors,  white,  to  blanch 705 

Litharge 4106 

Litharge,  Antidote  for 5908 

Litharge  Plaster 5043 

Lithia 3983 


LIT— LOT 

Lithia,  Carbonate  of 4238 

Lithia,  Sulphate  of 4239 

Lithia,  Tests  for 3984 

Lithia  Water,  Aerated 4436 

Lithographic  Crayons 1958 

Lithographic  Ink 2547,  <fcc. 

Lithographic  Ink,  to  test 2550 

Lithographic  Paper 1955,  &c. 

Litmus  Paper 4417,  4418 

Litres,  Value  of,  in  Cubic  Me- 
tres  6020 

Litres,  Value  of,  in  Apotheca- 
ries Measure 6023 

Litres,  Value  of,  in  Dry  Mea- 
sure   6021 

Litres,  Value  of,  in  Imperial 

Measures 6024,  6025 

Litres,  Value  of,  in  Liquid  Mea- 
sure   6022 

Live-Long  Candy 5260 

Liver  Complaint,  Remedies  for .  5697 

Liver  of  Antimony 4128 

Liver  Spots  on  the  Skin,  to  re- 
move   5885 

Lixiviation 23,  3841 

Lobelia,  Fluid  Extract  of 4578 

Lobelia  Poultice 5031 

Lobelia,  Tincture  of 4513 

Lobelia  Water 4761 

Locatelle's  Balsam 5306 

Lockjaw,  to  relieve 5771 

Log-Lines 6013 

Logs,  to  find  the  amount  of  Lum- 
ber in 6006 

Logs,  to  prevent,  from  Splitting  1678 
Logwood  Blue  Dye  for  Cottons  160 
Logwood  Lilac  Dyes  for  Cot- 
tons  175,  <fec. 

Logwood,  to  detect,  in  Wine  .  .4405 

London  Liniment 4865 

London  Gin,  Old  Tom,  Imita- 
tion    698 

Long  Measure,  see  LINEAL  ME  A- 
SOUE. 

Lotions 4817,  &c. 

Lotion,  Acetate  of  Lead 4824 

Lotion,  Alum,  Compound 4821 

Lotion,  Anodyne 4819 

Lotion,  Antipsoric 4850 

Lotion,  Arnica 4837 

Lotion,  Astringent 4820 

Lotion,  Balm  of  Gilead 4838 

Lotion,  Belladonna 4849 

Lotion,  Bichloride  of  Mercury.  1145 

Lotion,  Borax 1156 

Lotion,  Borax,  Glycerinated, -.1157 
1162,  5452. 

Lotion,  Camphorated 4822 

Lotion,  Camphorated  Evapora- 
ting  4844 

Lotion,  Carbolic  Acid 4835, 4837 

Lotion,  Cherry -laurel 1161 

Lotion,  Chlorate  of  Potassa... 4856 

Lotion,  Chloride  of  Lime 4830 

Lotion,  Chloride  of  Potassa 4832 

Lotion,  Chloride  of  Soda 4831 

Lotion,  Counter-irritant 5451 

Lotion,  Cyanide  of  Potassium,  .1158 
1159. 

Lotion,  Disinfecting 4852 

Lotion,  Evaporating 4843 

Lotion,  Galls 4846 

Lotion  for  Galls 4855 

Lotion,  for  Mango 4854 

Lotion,  Glycerine  1147,  <fcc.,  4839,  &c. 

Lotion,  Goulard's 4776 

Lotion,  Gowland's 1155 

Lotion,  Iodide  of  Potassium. .  .1144 

Lotion,  Iodine 1143,  4851 

Lotion,  Mercurial 4847 

Lotion,  Muriate  of  Ammonia..  4826 

4827. 
Lotion,  Muriatic  Acid. .  .4828,  5398 

Lotion,  Nitrate  of  Silver 4829 

Lotion,  Nitric  Acid 4818 

Lotion,  Preventive 4825 

Lotion,  Prussic  Acid 4833 

Lotion,  Sulphuretted 4834 

Lotion,  Tar 4845 

Lotion  to  remove  Freckles 1 142 

Lotion,  Turpentine 540 J 

Lotion,  Valuable,  for  Wounds  4853 
Lotion,  Veratria 5406 


LOT — MAH 

Lotion,  Yellow 4848 

Looking-Glasses,  see  MmitORS. 

Lome's  Lye  Tables 622 

Loysel's   Paste    for   Artificial 

Gems 2423 

Lubricating  Oils,  to  refine 1495 

Lubricators  for  Drills 6273 

Lubricators  for  Hones 6270,  6272 

Lubricators  for  Machineryl539,  &c. 
Lucifer  Matches,  Substitute  for2149 

Ludlam's  Specific 5409 

Lngol's  Iodine  Solution 5421 

Lumbago 5541 

Lumbago,  Remedy  for 5542 

Lunar  Caustic 4077 

Lunar  Caustic,  to  apply 5080 

Lupulin,  Fluid  Extract  of 4579 

Lupulin,  Oleoresin  of 4582 

Lupulin,  Tincture  of.. 4519 

Lustre  for  Brass 3379 

Lustre,  Metallic,  for  Pottery..  .2414 

Lustre  of  Metals 3351 

Lustre.  Starch 6329 

Lutes  for  various  purposes,2263,  &c. 

Lye 23 

Lye,  Caustic  Potash,  Table  of.  629 
Lye,  Caustic  Soda,  Table  of. . .  630 

Lye,  Hard-soap 4785 

Lye,  Home-made  Caustic . . .  548, 550 
Lye,  Kurten's  Caustic  Soda. . .  589 

Lye,  Soapmakers' 519,  588.  610 

Lye,  Soda,  Solution  of 4785 

Lye,  Soft-soap 4784 

Lye,  Table  of  Strength  of 623 

Lye,  to  test 590,  621 

Lye,  White,  for  Washing 483 


Macassar  Oil 1248 

Maceration 39 

Maceration,  to  obtain  Tinctures 

by 36 

Machinery,  Alloy  for  Journals 

of A  .  3430 

Machinery,  Lubricators  for  1*539,  <fcc. 
Mackenzie's  Solution  of  Nitrate 

of  Silver 4802 

McKenzie's  Ointment 5286 

McLean's  Neuralgic  Liniment.  521 8 

McMunn's  Elixir  of  Opium 4735 

Madeira  Wine,  to  fine 743 

Magendie's  Acid  Solution    of 

Veratria 5313 

Magenta  Dye  for  Silk  or  Wool.  314 
2575,  &c. 

Magenta  Ink' 2497 

Maggots  on  Roses,  to  destroy.  .1859 

Magic  Copying  Paper 1948 

Magic  Hair  Colorer  and  Re- 
storer  1217 

Magic  Liniment 4861 

Magic  Pain-killer 4881 

Magic  Tooth-paste 1315 

Magistery  of  Bismuth 4135 

Magnesia 3990,  &c. 

Magnesia,  Butyrate  of 4260 

Magnesia,  Carbonate  of 4240 

Magnesia,  Citrate  of,  Solutions 

of. ' 4805,  4809,  &c. 

Magnesia  Filter 17 

Magnesia,  Henry's 5230 

Magnesin,  Muriate  of 4434 

Magnesia,  Fluid 4434 

Magnesia,  Sulphate  of 4241 

Magnesia,  Sulphuret  of 4242 

Magnesia,  Test  for 3992 

Magnesia,  to  obtain 3991 

Magnesienne,  Eau 4434 

Magnesium,  Chloride  of 4243 

Magnetic  Adeps 4949 

Magnetic  Ointment 4963 

Magnetic  Pain-killer 5867 

Magnets,  Horseshoe,  to  restore  3296 

Mahogany,  Artificial 2849 

Mahogany,  Beechwpod 2848 

Mahogany,  Composition    for 

Light 2991 

Mahogany  Stain  for  Wood  2845,  &c. 

Mahogany,  to  clean 2985,  641 1 

Mahogany,  to  darken 2855 

Mahogany,  to  prepare,  for  Pol- 
ishing  2983,  &c. 

Mnhogany,  to  remove  Ink  from. 389 
Mahogany,  Varnish  for. .  .2893,  S8'.:5 


MAH — MAT 


MAT — MEG 


MEL — MIL         587 


Hahy's  White-lead  Plaster. . .  .5044 

Malates 39G7 

Male  Fern,  Oil  of. 4585 

Maleates 3967 

Maleic  Acid 3967 

Malic  Acid 3967 

Malleability  of  Metals 3354 

Malliorca  d'Espagne 701,  805 

Mallow  Liquid  Coloring 2631 

Malone's  Cough  Mixture 52G2 

Malt  Liquors,  Anti-ferments  for  764 

Malt  Liquors,  to  brew 856,  &o. 

Malt  Liquors,  to  test,  for  Clari- 
fication   872 

Malta,  Balsam  do 5116 

Malva  Liquid  Coloring 2631 

Mandrake,  Fluid  Extract  of.  ..4575 

Mandrake  Mercurial  Pills 4D12 

Mandrake,  Tincture  of 4507 

Manganate  of  Baryta 4229 

Manganese 4254 

Manganese,  Borate  of 2735 

Manganese,  Oxide  of 4173 

Manganese,  Phosphate  of 4C33 

Manganesic  Acid 3341 

Mange,  Lotion  for  the 4854 

Mangoes,  Pickled,  Imitation  ..18041 

Manifold  Copying 1049 

Manifold  Copying  Paper 1948 

Manipulations,  Chemical,l,&c.,  3830 

Mankettrick's  Lubricator 1546 

Manna  Lemonade 5247 

Mannite 5247 

Manure,  Artificial 1826,  &c. 

Manure,  Liquid 1824 

Manure,  to  dissolve  Bones  for..  18CO 

Maple  Syrup 1408 

Maps,  Colors  for 2G40,  &c. 

Maps,  Varnish  for.. 2920,  2935,  2938 

Maraschino 772,  &.C.,  801 

Maraschino  di  Zara 804 

Marble,  Acids  injurious  to 2045 

Marble,  Artificial 2032 

Marble  Cement 2209 

Marble,  Cement  to  join. .  .21GO,  2180 

Marble,  to  cement  Metal  to 2231 

Marble,  to  clean 396,  &c. 

Marble,  to  dye  or  stain... 2036,  &c. 
Marble,  to  extractoil-stainsfrom394 
401. 

Marble,  to  polish 2035 

Marble,  to  remove  Ink  or  Iron- 
mould  from 402,  514 

Marble,  to  remove  Match-stains 

from 517 

Marble,  to  remove  Stains  from.  400 
&.C.,  514,  &c. 

Marble  Soap 556 

Marble-Workers'  Cement 2180 

Marbled  Sealing  "Wax 2319 

Marbling  Books,  Method  of. ..3102 

Marchand's  Crimson  Fire 2077 

Marchand's  Green  Fire 2081 

ManSchal,  Eau  do 993 

Marienbad  Purging  Salts 4445 

Marienbad  Water,  Aerated  .  ..4444 

Marine  Cement 2254 

Marine  Glue 2201 

Marking  Fluid  for  Ivory 2001 

Marking-Ink  for  Linen,  &C.25G8,  &c. 

2532. 

Marking-Ink  for  Packages  2521,  <fec. 
Marking-Ink,  to  remove,  from 

Linen 385,  G339 

Maroon  Dye  for  Silks 253 

Marrow,  Factitious G3G7 

Marrow  Oil 1245 

Marseilles  Vinegar 5198 

Marsh-Mallow  Root,  Oil  of 4752 

!Marsh -Plants,  to  propagate 1883 

Marsh's  Blue  Fire 2074 

Marsh's  Crimson  Fire 2075 

Marsh's  White  Fire 2098 

Marsh's  Yellow  Fire 2100 

Martin's  Depilatory 1220 

Mashing  for  Brewing 858 

Mason's  Cement 2181 

Massicot 2744 

Mastic  Cements 2179,  2196,  &c. 

Mastich  French  Polish 2998 

Mastich  Picture  Varnish 2911 

Mastich  Varnish 2912,  &c. 

Match,  Inextinguishable 2061 


Match,  Quick 2060 

Match  Stains,  to  remove  from 

Marble 517 

Match,  Slow 2059 

Matches,  Congrcvc 2146 


Matches,  Japanese 2126  j  Melon  Seeds,  to  prove. 

Matches,  Mixtures  for 2150  •  Melting  Point  of  Met; 


Matches,  Parlor 2146 

Matches,  Substitute  fcr 2149 

Matches  -without  Sulphur 2148 

Mathieu's  Vermifuge 5245 

Matico,  Fluid  Extract  of 4574 

Matico  Injection. 5435 

Mats,  Sheepskin,  to  clean 420 

Mats,  to  prepare  Sheepskins  for.  G47 

Matting,  Straw,  to  clean 418 

Mauve  Dvo  for  Silk  or  Wool. . .  315 
May  Apple  Hoot,  Fluid  Extract 

Of. 4575 

May  Blossom  Pomade 12G3 

MayaU's  Method  of  cleaning 

Photographic  Glasses 3185 

Mayenco  Base  for  Artificial 

Gems 2421 

Maycs'  Indian  Cholagoguo 5396 

Mead  Wine 733 

Meadow-Land,  to  kill  Mosson.l8G6 

Measles,  Treatment  of 5749 

Measure,  Apothecaries 5956 

Measure,  Apothecaries,  compared 

with  Apothecaries  Weight.. 5962 
Measure,  Apothecaries,  compared 

with  Avoirdupois 5960 

Measure,  Apothecaries,  compared 

with  Litres 5959 

Measure,  Apothecaries,  compared 

with  Troy 59G1 

Measure,  Cloth 5994 

Measure,  Cord-wood 5997 

Measure,  Cubic  or  Solid 5996 

Measure,  Dry 5970 

Measure,  Geographical 6010 

Measure,  Government  Land. .  .5084 

Measure,  Imperial  Dry C037 

Measure,  Imperial  Liquid G034 

Measure,  Imperial  Standard  . .  0032 

Measure,  Lineal  or  Long 5975 

Measure,  Liquid 5966 

Measure,  Log  or  Lumbcr,G003,  6006 

Measure,  Metrical 6014 

Measure,  Nautical C010 

Measure  of  Time 6007 

Measure,  Pendulum 5980 

Measure,  Shoemakers' 5981 

Measure,  Square  or  Superficial,  5982 
Measure,  Stone  and  Brick- workGOOO 

Measure,  Timber 6003,  6006 

Measure,  Wine 5956 

Measures,  Foreign GOoG,  &c. 

Measures,  Foreign,  compared 

with  U.  States 6055 

Measures,  Graduated,forFluids5957 

Measures,  Housekeepers' 6130 

Measures,  Miscellaneous 5%3 

Meat,  Liebig's  Extract  of 1G09 

Meat,  Paper  for  preserving 1G14 

Meat,  to  can 1G11 


Meat,  to  cure  . 


.1G06 


Meat,  to  dry 1599 

Meat,  to  dry-salt 1602 

Meat,  to  keep,  fresh 1G12 

Meat,  to  pickle 1G02 

Meat,  to  pickle,  red 1G03 

Meat,  to  preserve. .  .1605,  1010, 1618 

1G32. 

Meat,  to  salt,  by  Injection 1G04 

Meat,  to  smoko 1GOO 

Medals,  to  bronze 3772,  &c. 

Medals,  to  preserve G238 

Medals,  to  take  Moulds  of.  3G72,3G75 

3C84. 

Medical  Receipts 5478,  &c. 

Medicated  Lint 507G 

Medicated  Oils 4752 

Medicated  Soaps.Caution about  57!) 

Medicated  Waters 4753,  &c. 

Medicinal  Weights,  Foreign  ..G054 

Medicine  Bottles,  to  clean 432 

Medicines,  to  disguise  the  Tasto 

of 5887 

Meerschaum,  Artificial 2047 

Meerschaum,  to  polish 2046 

Mege's  Rheumatic  Ointment.. 5293 


Melilot  "Water,  to  distill..  1071,  1073 

Melisse,  Eau  do 988 

Melon  Essence,  Artificial 1059 

Melon  Plants,  to  kill  Thripson.1858 

Melon  Seeds,  to  clean 1 864 

18G3 

;als 6133 

Mending,  see  AUTICLE  to  bo 

mended. 

Menstruation,  Difficult 5715 

Menstruation,  Excessive 5714 

Menstruation,  Irregular 5712 

Menstruation,  Remedies  for... 5716 
Menstruation,  Suppressed  5713, 5716 

Mercurial  Lotion 4847 

Mercurial  Ointment 4947,  &c. 

Mercurial  Pills 4912,  4919 

Mercurial  Soap 577 

Mercury 3324 

Mercury,  Ammonio-chlorido  of  4140 

4142. 
Mercury,  Chlorides  of. . .  .4138,  4139 

Mercury,  Fulminating 2134 

Mercury,  Nitrate  of 4144 

Mercury,  Oxides  of 414 1, 4143 

Mercury,  Sulphuret  of 2681, 2682 

Mercury,  Test  for 3325 

Mercury,  Tests  for  the  Salts  of,  4145 

Mercury,  to  purify 3326,  &c. 

Merino,  to  preserve  tho  Colors 

of 487 

Metal,  Expansion 3454 

Metals 3186 

Metals,  Assay  of 3187,  3100,  3206 

Metals,  Black  Lacquer  for 3064 

Metals,  Cement  to  join  2247 

Metals,  Cement  to  join,  to  Glass  2262 

Metals,  Fluxes  for 3471 

Metals,  Melting  Point  of 6133 

MetaSs,  Properties  of 334S),  6143 

Metals,  Solutions  for  Coloring  3188 

3197,  3313. 

Metals,  to  cement  Gems  to  . .  .2152 
Metals,  to  cement,  to  Leather.  2230 
Metals,  to  cement,  to  Marble, 

Stone  or  Wood 2231 

Metals,  to  gild 3582,  &c. 


Metals,  to  prepare,   for  Japan- 


ning. 


.3019 


Metals,  to  prevent  Corrosion  in  3251 

Metals,  to  silver 3632 

Metal  Letters,  to  attach,  to 

Glass 2261 

Metallic  Freezing  Mixture 1690 

Metallic  Lustres  for  Pottery. .  .2414 

Metallic  Paint,  Varnish  for 2894 

Metallic  Varnish 2953 

Metallic  Waterproofing  Soap.  .1562 
Meters,  Gas,  to  keep,  from 

Freezing 6214 

Methane 4048 

Methyl 4304 

Metre,  Ofiicial  Standard 6015 

Metres  compared  with  Lineal 

Measure 6017,  &c. 

Metrical  Measure  of  Capacity. 6020 
Metrical  Measure  of  Length  .  .6016 
Metrical  Measure  of  Surface .  .6026 

Metrical  Weights 6027 

Metrical  Weights  andMeasures6014 

&c.,  C052. 

MetropolitanDisinfcctingFluidlG93 
Mettauer's  Aperient  Solution.  .5272 

Mexican  Tooth-wash 1326 

Mexican  Money 6113 

Mexican  Mustang  Liniment. .  .5221 

Meyer's  Water  of  Life 5448 

Mialhc's  Aerated    Chalybeate 

Water 4474 

Mialhc's  Elixir  of  Pcpsino 4720 

Mialhc's  lodurettcd   Gaseous 

Water 4477 

Mialhe's  Rational  Dentifrice. .  .1295 
Mialho's  Syrup  for  Hoarseness.  5249 

Mice,  Bait  for 1895 

Mice,  to  drive  away 1923 

Microscope,  Marvels  of  the 6181 

Microscope,  to  mount  Objects 

for  the G179,  &e. 

Microscopic  Objects,  Preserva- 
tive Fluids  for 1662 

Milburn's  Mixture 5347 

Mildew  on  Cotton,  to  remove. .  128 


588        MIL— MOH 

Mildew  on  Plants,  to  remove..  1B50 
Mildew  on  Trees,  to  prevent.. 1849 
Mildew  Spots,  to  remove.. 381,  &c. 

Micl,  Eaude 1006 

Milhau's  Emulsion  of  Cod- Liver 

Oil S437 

Milk,  Asses',  Imitation 0289 

Milk,  Condensed 1597,  5470 

Milk,  Extract  of 5470 

Milk  of  Wax 2936 

Milk  or  Emulsion 43 

Milk,  Painting  in 27G9 

Milk  Powder 5471 

Milk  Punch 918 

Milk,  Syrup  of 4G87 

Milk,  to  detect  Chalk  in 4377 

Milk,  to  detect  Water  in 4376 

Milk,  to  keep,  Sweet 1028 

MHk,  to  preserve 1027 

Mill-Picks,  to  harden 3392 

Mill-Picks,  to  temper 32D1 

Millefleur,  Bouquet  do 1065 

Millefleur,  Essence  of,  for  Scent- 
ing Pomades 1261 

Millefleur,  Extrait  dc 1003 

Millefleur,  Oilof 1227 

Millefleur  Pomado 1208 

Millefleur  Water 1005 

Millon's  Method  of  obtaining 

Essential  Oils 1467 

Mills,  Spice,  to  clean 423 

Mindererns,  Spirit  of 5143 

Mineral  Green 2711 

Mineral  Substances,  to  silver.  .3026 
Mineral  Waters,  Factitious. .  .4430 
Mineral  Waters,  Syrups  for.  ..1384 

Minerals,  Weight  of G135 

Mint,  Soda 5397 

Mint  Vinegar .1771 

Mint  Water,  to  distill.  ..1071, 1073 

Mirbane,  Essence  of -1322 

Mirrors,  Amalgam  for... 3538,  3545 

Mirrors,  to  clean 417,  C330 

Mirrors,  to  repair  the  Silvering 

of 3024,  &c. 

Mirrors,  to  silver 3013,  <tc. 

Mitchell's  Ointment  of  Three.. 5294 

Mixed  Essential  Oils 1243 

Mixed  Fabrics,  to  detect  Cotton 

in 295 

Mixed  Fabrics,  to  detect  Linen 

in 296 

Mixed  Fabrics,  to  detect  Silk 

and  Wool  in 300 

Mixed  Fabrics,  to  dissolve  Wool 

out  of 6413 

Mixed  Fabrics,  to  dye 283,  &c. 

Mixed  Pickles 1805 

Mixed  Scents 1243 

Mixture,  Antiscrofulous 5774 

Mixture,  Belladonna C808 

Mixture,  Brown 5588 

Mixture,  Camphor 5387 

Mixture,  Cataract,  for  the  Eye,5808 

Mixture,  Chalk 4747 

Mixture,  Chirayta 5192 

Mixture,  Chlorodyno 5655 

Mixture,  Cholera 5067,  &c. 

Mixture,  Copaiba 5263,  5735 

Mixture,  Cough  5202, 5007, 5610,  &c. 
Mixture,  Cyanide  of  Potassium  52C8 

Mixture,  Emetic 51C8 

Mixture,  Fever 5137 

Mixture,  Freezing 1087,  &c. 

Mixture,  Influenza 5623 

Mixture,  Intermittent  Fever  ..5757 

Mixture,  Iron,  Aromatic 4712 

Mixture,  Iron,  Compound 5248 

Mixture,  Liquorice,  Compound  5,"S8 

Mixture,  Nervous 5572 

Mixture,  Neutralizing 5666 

Mixture,  Oil  of  Wonnsced 5646 

Mixture,  Quinine 5582,  5j84 

Mixture,  Saline 4763 

Mixture,  Shampoo, 1188,  &.c. 

Mixture,  Tonic  and  Nervine  ..5123 

Mixture,  Tonic  Aromatic 5124 

Mixture,  Washing 480 

Mocking  Birds,  Food  for 0190 

Modeling  Clay G321 

Modeling  Wax 1590 

Mohr's  Blue  Ink 2482 

Mohr's  Table  of  Acetic  Acid.  .3897 


MOI  —  MOIT 

Moiro  Bronze  .................  3785 

Moire  Metallique  ..............  3320 

Molasses  Candy  ...............  0280 

Molasses  Taffy  ................  0282 

Moles,  to  remove  ..............  5826 

Molinari's  Remedy  for  Sea-sick- 

ness ........................  5339 

Molybdenum  for  Blue  Dye  .....  2033 

Mouesia,  Tincture  of.  .........  4500 

Money,  Austrian  ..............  0075 

Money,  Brazilian  ..............  6115 

Money,  Chinese  ...............  6110 

Money,  East  Indian  ...........  6112 

Money,  English  ...............  6044 

Money,  French  ...............  G053 

Money,  Mexican  ..............  0113 

Money,  Monte  Video  .........  0114 

Money,  Netherlands  ..........  GC84 

Money,  Portuguese  ...........  CC89 

Money,  Prussian  ..............  GC80 

Money,  Roman,  Ancient  ......  0057 

Money,  Roman,  Modern  .......  6079 

Money,  Russian  ...............  6071 

Money,  Scriptural  .............  0069 

Money,  Spanish  ...............  G091 

Money,  Swedish  ..............  G096 

Money,  Swiss  .................  0101 

Money,  Turkish  ..............  0106 

Monsel's  Styptic  Solution  ......  5431 

Mont  d'Or  Water,  Aerated  ____  4471 

Monte  Vkleo,  Money  of  .......  6114 

Monthly  Flow,  see  MENSTRUATION. 
Moore's  Elixir  of  Valerianato 

of  Ammonia  ................  4734 

Moore's  Extract  of  Black  Co- 

hosh  ...................  4502,4750 

Moore's  Fluid  Extract  of  Van- 

illa ................  .  ........  4607 

Moore's  Syrup  of  Tar  .........  4069 

Mordants  ..................  C3,  2634 

Mordant-Brown  Dye   for   Cot- 

tons ........................  143 

Mordant's  for  Aniline  Colors..  2503 

2568. 
Mordant  Varnish  .............  2919 

Moreens,  to  clean  .............  448 

MorellaWine  .................  728 

Morfit's  Dentifrice  ............  1298 

Morfit's  Hair-tonic  ............  1180 

Morocco  Leather,  to  restore.  .  .30G8 
Morocco  Leather,  to  tan  .......  643 

Morphia  ......................  3997 

Morphia,  Acetate  of  ...........  4267 

Morphia  Collodion  ............  4745 

Morphia  Liniment  ............  4860 

Morphia,  Percentage   of,    in 

Opium  ......................  3998 

Morphine,  sec  MoiiruiA. 
Morrison's  Pills  ...............  5327 

Mortars,  Wedgwood,  to  clean.  (1346 
Morton's  Copaiba  Mixture  .  .  .  .5264 

Morvcau's  Reducing  Flux  .....  34G3 

Mosaic  Gold  ........  3348,  3425,  G3G2 

Mosaic  Silver  .................  G3G1 

Mosquitoes,  to  clear  ar.oomof.1017 
Mosquitoes,  to  keep  away  .....  1018 

Moss  Meal  for  Birds  ..........  6190 

Moss  on  Fruit  Trees,  to  destroy  1860 
Moss  on  Gravel  Walks,  to  re- 

move .......................  1861 

Moss  on  Lawns,  to  kill  ........  1CG5 

Moss  on  Meadow  Land,  to  Idil.lGGG 
Moth,  to  keep,  from  Clothing.  .  C54 
Mother  of  Pearl,  to  polish  .....  2C03 

Mother's  Cordial  ..............  53~4 

Mottled  Soap  Balb  ............  570 

Mould  Candles,  to  make  .......  033 

Mouldiness,  to  prevent  (sec  also 

ARTICLK  to  be  kept  from)".  .  .  .6380 

Mouldings  for  Rooms,  Stuff  for.  22CO 
Moulds,  Composition  for  ......  3G84 

Moulds,  Copper,  Coating  far  .  .3073 
Moulds,  Copper  ..........  3072,  3G80 

Moulds,  Elastic  ...............  3GS5 

Moulds,  Fusiblc-nllcy  .........  3679 

Moulds,  Gutta  Percha  .........  3G81 

Moulds,  Metal,  to  uso  .........  3690 

Moulds  of  Figures,  to  take  ____  3G8G 

Moulds,  Paste  .................  3683 

Moulds,  Plaster  ...............  3077 

Moulds,  Precautions  in  Electro- 

typing  ......................  3691 

oulds,  Prepared  Wax  for  ____  3674 


Mou 


MOtr — MTR 

Moulds,  to  coat,  with  Metal 3G89 

Moulds,  to  prepare,  for  Electro- 
typing 3689,  3690 

Moulds,  Wax 3675,  3682 

Mousseline  do  Laine  Dresses,  to 

wash 485 

Mousseline  de  Laine,  to  preserve 

the  Colors  of 487 

Moustache  Pomade 1287 

Moutardo  h  1'Estragon 1787 

Moutardo  Superbe 1 788 

Mouth  Glue 2307 

Mouth  Washes 1323 

Moxon's  Case-hardening 3299 

Mucilage  for  Labels 2301 

Mucilage  for  Oiace  use 2299 

Mucilage  for  Polished  Surfaces  2309 
Mucilage  for  Soda  Water  Bot- 
tles  2302 

Mucilage  Gargle 5070 

Mucilage,  Gum-arabic 2304 

Mucilage,  Postage-stamp 2300 

Mucilage,  Quince 1154 

Mucilage,   to    prevent,    from 

Moulding 2305 

Mucilage,  Tragacanth 2310 

Mucilaginous  Fermentation...     16 

Mudar  Bark,  Oil  of. 4752 

Mulberry  and  Apple  Wine 728 

Mulberry  Wine 728 

Mulder's  Colorless  Drying  Oil.  .2731 

Mulled  Wine  with  Eggs 927 

Mumps,  Treatment  of 5629 

Munro's  Courrh  Medicine 5233 

Muntz's  Metal 3348 

Murexidc 4224 

Muriates 3882 

Muriate  of  Ammonia 4222 

Muriate  of  Ammonia,  Lotion  of  4826 

Muriate  of  Baryta 4234 

Muriate  of  Iron 41G5,  4166 

Muriate  of  Lead 4102 

Muriate  of  Lime >..  .4246 

Muriate  of  Magnesia 4243 

Muriate  of  Nickel 4174 

Muriate  of  Tin 4123,  4124 

Muriatcd  Photographic  Paper .  3170 

Muriatic  Acid 3682,  <fcc.,  4068 

Muriatic  Acid,  Commercial  . . .  3883 

Muriatic  Acid,  Dilute 3885 

Muriatic  Acid  Liniment 4875 

Muriatic  Acid  Lotion 4828,  5398 

Muriatic  Acid,  Pure 3884 

Muriatic  Acid,  Table  of  Percen- 
tages of 3886 

Muriatic  Acid,  Tests  for 3887 

Muriatic  Acid,  to  obtain 3883 

Muriatic  Acid,  to  purify 3888 

Murphy's  Carminative 5388 

Murray's  Fluid  Magnesia 4434 

Mushroom  Catsup 1767 

Mushrooms,  Pickled 1802 

Mushrooms,  Poisonous,  Anti- 
dotes for 5914 

Mushrooms,  to  test 4387 

Musical  Instruments,  to  stain .  .2858 
Musk  and  Ambergris,  Oil  of. .  .1237 

Musk,  Essence  of 95fi,  &c. 

Musk,  Oil  of 1227,  1228,  1236 

Musk  Soap 571 

Musk,  Tincture  of 1025 

Musk,  to  restore  the  Odor  of. . .  1354 

Musk,  to  test 4390 

Musk  Seed,  Essence  of 968 

Muskrat  Skins,  to  tan 648 

Muskrats,1  to  ca:ch 1896 

Muslin,  Colored,  to  wash. .  .486,  490 

Muslin,  to  coat,  with  Metal 3738 

Muslin,  to  starch 500 

Muslin,  to  thicken  and  strength- 
en  6236 

Mustard,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Mustard  for  Table  Use 1784,  &c. 

Mustard  Liniment 4892,  4894 

Mustard  Plaster 5057 

Mustard  Plaster,  Homoeopathic  5056 

Mustard  Poultice 5021 

Mustiness  in  Beer,  to  remedy . .  877 
Mustiness  in  Wine,  to  remove.  758 

Mutton  Suet 524 

Mynsicht's  Elixir  of  Vitriol. . .  .4731 

Myrrh  and  Aloes  Pills 4902 

Myrrh  and  Borax  Mouth-wash .  1333 


MYR — NIT 


NIT — OH 


OIL — OIL 


Myrrh,  Fluid  Extract  of 4579 

Myrrh,  Tincture  of 4560 

Myrrh  Tooth-wash 1332 

Myrrhine,  George's 5377 

Myrtle  Blossom  Pomade 1263 

Myrtle  Cuttings,  to  manage  - . .  1831 
Myrtle,  Essence  of,  Imitation .  .1068 

Nagel's  Cobalt-electroplating.  .3766 
Nagel's  Nickel-electroplating.  .3763 
Nans,  Finger,  Treatment  of!.. 5823 

Nails,  Iron,  for  Wall-trees 1885 

Nails,  Number  of.  to  the  Pound  6146 
Nails,  Toe.  Treatment  of. 5827,  &.c. 

Nankeen  Dye  for  Cottons 136 

Nankeen  Dye  for  Silks 269 

Nap.  to  raise  the,  on  Cloth 461 

Naphtha 1527 

Naples  Water 4465 

Naples  Yellow 12709 

Napoleon-Blue  Dye  for  Cottons  132 

Napoleon's  Pectoral  Pills 5253 

Narcissus  Pomade 1263 

Narcotic  Glycerole 5016 

Narcotine 3999 

Nasturtiums,  Pickled 1801 

Nautical  Measure 6010 

Nautical  Time 6011 

Neats-Foot  Oil 1513 

Neats-Foot  Oil,  to  refine 1514 

Neats-Foot  Oil,  to  test 1493 

Neck,  Stiff,  Cure  for 5640 

Nectar  Cream  Syrup 1434 

Nectar  Lemon  Soda 917 

Nectar  Syrup 1419,  <fcc. 

Nelson's  Patent  Gelatine 4368 

Neroli,  Essence  of 961 

Neroli,  Oil  of 1227 

Neroli,  Oil  of,  Test  for 1483 

Nerve  and  Bone  Liniment4893,5224 

Nerve  Powder 5571 

Nervines 55(19,  &c. 

Nervine  Balsam 5113,  5340 

Nervine  Mixture 5123 

Nervous  Headache,  to  cure  5704,  &c. 

Nervous  Mixture 5572 

Nervous  Pill 5573 

Nervous  Tincture 5574 

Nervousness,  Treatment  of 5570 

Netherlands,  Money  of  the 6084 

Netherlands,  Weights  and  Mea- 
sures of  the 6085,  &c. 

Neuralgia,  Liniment  for.  .4858,5218 

5220. 

Neuralgia,  Ointment  for.  4979,  4982 
Neuralgia,  Remedies  for.  .5544,  &c. 

Neuralgia,  Wine  for 5408 

Neutral  Solution 29 

Neutralization 3846 

Neutralizing  Cordial 5394,5424 

Neutralizing  Mixture 566'i 

New  England  Rum,  to  distill..  931 
New  England  Rum,  Yeast  for.  932 
Newell's  Compound  Tar  Oint- 
ment   5288 

New  York  Pills 5300 

Nicholson's  Blue  Aniline  Dye.  .2606 

Nickel 3323 

Nickel,  Alloys  of 3410,  &c.,  3439 

Nickel,  Chloride  or  Muriate  of.  41 74 

Nickel,  Oxalate  of 4178 

Nickel,  Oxide  of 4175,  <fec. 

Nickel,  Salts  of,  Test  for 4179 

Nickel  Silver 3348 

Nickel,  Sulphate  of 4177 

Nickel,  to  coat  Metal  with 3659 

Nickel,  to  electroplate  with 3762 

Nicotine  or  Nicotia 4019 

Night,  to  find  the  Length  of  the  6153 
Nightmare.Precautions  against  5784 

Nightmare,  to  prevent 5785 

Nightshade  Leaves,  Oil  of 4752 

Nightsweats,  Remedy  for 5787 

Nights  weats,  to  relieve..  5788,  &c. 
Nimmo's  Solution  of  Croton  0115413 
Ninon  de  1'Inclos,  Pomade  de.1163 

Nipples,  Sore,  Lotion  for 1 156 

Nipples,  Sore,  Ointment  for  . .  .4985 

Nipples,  Sore,  tocure 5730 

Nipple  Wash 5393 

Nitrates 3872 

Nitrate  of  Baryta 4230 

Nitrate  of  Baryta  Solution 4782 


Nitrate  of  Bismnth 4134,  41 35 

Nitrate  of  Cobalt 4250 

Nitrate  of  Copper 4091 

Nitrate  of  Copper  Solution 97 

Nitrate  of  Iron 116,  4171,  4172 

Nitrate  of  Lead 4107 

Nitrate  of  Lime 2223 

Nitrate  of  Mercury 4144 

Nitrate  of  Mercury,  Glycerina- 

ted 5012 

Nitrate  of  Potassa 4194 

Nitrate  of  Silver 4077 

Nitrate  of  Silver,  Lotion  of 4829 

Nitrate  of  Silver,  Antidotes  for  5905 
Nitrate  of  Silver,  Caustic,  to  ap- 
ply   5080 

Nitrate  of  Silver  from  Silver  Al- 
loy  4080 

Nitrate  of  Silver  Solution  .  4783,4802 
Nitrate  of  Silver  Stains,  to  re- 
move  3141,  6339 

Nitrate  of  Tin 4121 

Nitrate  of  Urea 4323,  4324 

Nitrated  Photographic  Paper.  .3169 

Nitre 4194 

Nitre,  Sweet  Spirit  of 4289 

Nitre,  to  purify 4195 

Nitric  Acid 3872 

Nitric  Acid,  Dilute 3876 

Nitric  Acid,  Fuming 3877 

Nitric  Acid,  Lotion  of 4818 

Nitric  Acid,  Table  of  Percen- 
tage of 3878 

Nitric  Acid,  Tests  for 3875 

Nitric  Acid,  Tests  for,  in  Sul- 
phuric Acid 3861 

Nitric  Acid,  to  obtain 3873 

Nitric  Acid,  to  purify 3874 

Nitric  Acid,  to  remove,  from 

Sulphuric  Acid 3862 

Nitric  Ether 4287 

Nitric  Oxide 3872 

Nitrite  of  Potassa 4189 

Nitro-Benzole 4322 

Nitrogen 4057 

Nitrogen,  Protoxide  of 4060 

Nitrogen,  Test  for 4058 

Nitrogen,  to  obtain 4059 

Nitro-Glycerine 2142,  2143 

Nitromuriates 3879 

Nitromuriate  of  Platinum 3220 

Nitromuriatic  Acid 3879 

Nitromuriatic  Acid,  Dilute 3881 

Nitroprusside  of  Sodium 4217 

I  Nitrosulphuric  Acid 3871 

1  Nitrous  Acid 3877 

Nitrous  Ether 4288 

Nitrous  Oxide 3872,  4060 

Noble's  Tonic  Elixir 5407 

Nocturnal  Emissions,  to  cure.  .5739 
5746. 

Nomenclature,  Chemical 3853 

Nonpareil  Bitters 824 

Norrthausen  Sulphuric  Acid. .  .3858 

Normandy's  Alkalimeter 83 

Norris'  Soda  Mint 5397 

Norwood's  Tincture  of  Helle- 
bore  4515 

Nose,  Bleeding  from  the,  to  stop  5565 

Novargent 3602 

Number  Six,  Thompson's 5177 

Nuremberg  Plaster 5383 

Nut-Galls,  see  GALLS. 

Nut-Oil,  Frencli,  to  detect  1498,1499 

Nut-Oil.  India,  Tests  for 1497 

Nutmeg,  Extract  of 1037 

Nutmeg,  Tincture  of 1015 

Nutmeg,  Oil  of 1227 

Nutritive  Wine 4723 

Nux  Vomica,  Antidotes  for 5912 

Nus  Vomica,  Tincture  of 4520 

Oak,  Poison,  Remedies  for  5930.&C. 

Ochre 2702 

Odontine 3313, 1314 

I  Odoriferous  Water 1070 

|  (Enanthic  Ether 4296 

;  fEnanthylate  of  Ethyl 4296 

Ogden 's  Chlorodyne 5201 

\  Oil,  Black 4872 

Oil-Blacking  for  Boots,  &c.,3087,&c. 

Oil,  Boiled,  for  Drying 2726,  &c. 

Oil,  Boiled,  for  Varnish 2872 


Oil,  British 5361 

Oil,  Camphorated 4863 

Oil,  Carron 5513 

Oil,  Castor,  to  purify  and  sweet- 
en  1503 

Oil,  Castor,  to  test 1501 

Oil-Cloths,  to  clean 425 

Oil-Cloths,  to  keep,  in  order 424 

Oil,  Coal,  Crude,    See  PETROLEUM. 
Oil,  Coal,  Refined,    See  KEROSENE. 

Oil,  Cocoa-nut 527 

Oil  Colors,  to  mix 2761 

Oil,  Cotton-seed,  to  bleach 1510 

Oil,  Drying 2726,  &.o. 

Oil  for  Incipient  Baldness 1251 

Oil  Gilding 3570,  3581 

Oil,  Green 5385 

Oil,  Kerosene,  see  KEROSENE  OIL. 

Oil,  Neats-foot 1513 

Oil,  Neats-foot,  to  refine 1514 

Oil  of  Aloes 1465 

Oil  of  Almonds.Non-poisonous  1512 

Oil  of  Ambergris 1227,  1240 

Oil  of  Ambergris  and  Musk  . .  .1237 

Oil  of  Anise 1465 

Oil  of  Apple 1469,  4303 

Oil  of  Balsam  Apple 4752 

Oil  of  Balsam  of  Peru 1241 

OilofBark 46 

Oil  of  Belladonna 4752 

Oil  of  Benzoin 1242 

Oil  of  Bergainot 1227 

Oil  of  Bergamot,  Test  for 1480 

Oil  of  Bergnmot  Pear 4302 

Oil  of  Bitter  Almonds 1465 

Oil  of  Bitter  Almonds,  Facti- 
tious  4322 

Oil  of  Bitter  Almonds,  Non-poi- 
sonous  1512 

Oil  of  Bitter  Almonds,  Test  for  1479 

Oil  of  Brown  Paper 5522 

Oil  of  Calamus 1465 

Oil  of  Cantharides 4752 

Oil  of  Capsicum 4752 

Oil  of  Caraway 1465 

Oil  of  Cassia 1227 

OilofChamomilo 4752 

Oil  of  Cinnamon 1227, 1465 

Oil  of  Cinnamon,  Test  for 1481 

Oil  of  Civet 1228 

Oil  of  Cloves 1227,  1465 

Oil  of  Cloves,  Test  for 1485 

Oil  of  Cognac 1468 

Oil  of  Cognac,  Test  for 677 

Oil  of  Elder-flowers 4752 

Oil  of  Fcunel 1465 

Oil  of  Fenugreek 4752 

Oil  of  Foxglove 4752 

Oil  of  Garlic 4752 

Oil  of  Gladness 5344 

Oil  of  Hemlock  (Conium) 4752 

Oil  of  Henbane 4752 

Oil  of  Henbane,  Imitation 5385 

Oil  of  Horsemint 1465 

Oil  of  Jargonelle  Pear,  Facti- 
tious   1470,  4302 

Oil  of  Juniper  Berries...  1465,  4752 

Oil  of  Lavender 1227,  1465 

Oil  of  Lavender,  Test  for 1482 

Oil  of  Lemon 1227,  1465 

Oil  of  Lemon,  to  keep 1473 

Oil  of  Lemon,  to  restore 1472 

Oil  of  Lilies,  White 4752 

Oil  of  Male-fern 4585 

Oil  of  Marsh-mallow  Root 4752 

Oil  of  Milleflpiir 1227 

Oil  of  Mudar  Bark 4752 

Oil  of  Musk 1227,1236 

Oil  of  Mustard 1465 

Oil  of  Neroli 1227 

Oil  of  Neroli,  Test  for 1483 

Oil  of  Nightshade  Leaves 4752 

Oil  of  Niitmeg 1227 

Oil  of  Opium 4752 

Oil  of  Orange  Flowers 1227 

Oil  of  Origanum .1465 

Oil  of  Pear,  Factitious . . .  1470, 4302 

Oil  of  Pellitory  Root 4752 

Oil  of  Pennyroyal 1465 

Oil  of  Pepper 4752 

Oil  of  Peppermint 1465 

Oil  of  Pimento 1465 

Oil  of  Pineapple 4293 


OIL — OIN 


59O 

Oil  cf  Poison-Oak  Leaves 4752 

Oil  cf  Quince,  Factitious.  1471,  4290 

Oil  of  Rhodium-wood 1465 

Oil  of  Rose 1227,  1329,  4752 

Oil  of  Rose,  Test  for 1484 

Oil  of  Rue 4752 

Oil  of  St.  John's  Wort 4752 

Oil  of  Sandal-wood 14G5 

Oil  of  Sassafras 14C5 

Oil  of  Savinc 14G5 

Oil  of  Spearmint 14G5 

Oil  of  Spike,  Factitious 4873 

Oil  of  Stone 5301,  53G2 

Oil  of  Storax  or  Sty  rax 1238 

Oil  of  Tobacco 14G5,  4752 


Oil  cf  Turpentine 4317 

OH  cf  Turpentine  for  bleaching  510 


Oil  of  Valerian 1405 

Oil  of  Vanilla 1239,  1247 

Oil  of  Vitriol 3855 

Oil  cf  Wormsccd  Mixture 5646 

Oil,  Olive,  to  refine 1502,  1551 

Oil,  Olive,  to  test 1500 

Oil-Paint  Stains,  to  remove 339 

Oil  Paintings,  to  clean 4C6,  &c. 

Oil  Paintings,  to  preserve 6375 

Oil  Paintings,  to  remove  tho 

Varnish  from 405 

Oil  Paintings,  to  restore 0375 

Oil  Paintings,  Varnishfcr 2914, 2930 

Oil,  Palm 528 

Oil,  Palm,  to  bleach 537,  1509 

Oil,  Phosphorescent 4339 

Oil  Size  for  Gilding 3571,  3580 

Oil-Stains,  to  remove,  from 

Boards 394 

Oil-Stains,  to  remove,  from  Car- 
pets  357 

Oil-Stains,  to  remove,  from  Cot- 
tons   126 

Oil-Stains,  to  rcrnove,from  Leath- 
er   359 

Oil-Stains,  to  remove,  from  Mar- 
ble   394 

Oil-Stains,  to  remove,  from  Pa- 
per   359 

Oil  Stones,  sec  HONKS. 

Oil,  to  take,  out  of  Leather 3077 

Oil,  Trotter 151:) 

Oil,  Trotter,  to  refine 1514 

Oil  Varnishes..... 2874,  &c. 

Oil,  Vermifuge 5G43 

Oil,  Watchmakers' J549,  &c. 

Oil,  "Whale,  to  deodorize  Putrid  1488 

Oiled  Paper 1930,  &c. 

Oils,  Essential,  sec  ESSENTIAL  OILS. 
Oils,  Hair,  sec  HAIIJ  OIL. 

Oils,  Lubricating,  to  refine 1495 

Oils,  Medicated 4752 

Oils,  Pcrfnmcd 1226,  &o. 

Oils,  Perfumed  by  Enticuragc..l229 

Oils,  Perfumed  by  Essences 1227 

Oils,  Perfumed  by  Infusion 1228 

Oils,  Rancid,  to  restore..  .1489,  &c. 
Oils,  Rancidity  in,  to  prevent..  1401 

Oils,  Scented 122G 

Oils,  Tests  fcr 1 496,  &c. 

Oils,  to  bleach 1504,  &c. 

Oils,  to  detect  Admixture  in..  .1477 

1478. 

Oils,  Vegetable,  to  bleach.  1504,  &c. 
Oils,  Volatile,  see  ESSENTIAL  OILS. 

Ointments 41)01,  &c. 

Ointments,  to  keep,  from  getting 

Rancid 50C8 

Ointment,  Aconitinc 4984 

Ointment,  Ammoniacd.. 4944,  5477 

Ointment,  Astringent 497C 

Ointment,  Basilicon 4964 

Ointment,  Belladonna 4043,  4983 

Ointment,  Bitter-sweet 4977 

Ointment,  Black  Basilicon 4DGO 

Ointment,  Borax 4951,  4'J52 

Ointment,  Brown 4'J5'J 

Ointment,  Camphor 4941,  5403 

Ointment,  Cancer 53SG 

Or.itmcnt,  Canthnridcs..  .5010,  5017 

Ointment,  Catechu 4945 

Ointment,  Chloroform 4C82 

Ointment,  Citrine 4947 

Ointment,  Cod-liver  Oil 4975 

Ointment,  Creosote 4!>53,  f-404 

Ointment,  Croton  Oil 5702 


Ointment,  Cucumber .r>OCO 

Ointment.  Egyptian 5005 

Ointment  for  Baker's  Itch 4957 

Ointment  for  Chilblains  4934 

Ointment  for  Cracked-hoof 5002 

Ointment  for  Foot-rot 5G01 

Ointment  for  Issue 5284 

Ointment  for  Itch. .  .4954,  4999,  5239 

5243,  5322. 
Ointment  for  Neuralgia  .  .4979,  4982 

Ointment  for  Old  Sores 4976 

Ointment  for  Piles 4986,  &c. 

Ointment  for  Salt  Rheum 4962 

Ointment  for  Sore  Nipples 4985 

Ointment  for  Vermin 5395 

Ointment,  Fuligokali 5380 

Ointment,  Gall,  Compound 5006 

Ointment,  Glycerine 5009 

Ointment,  Green 4974 

Ointment,  Green  Basilicon 4967 

Ointment,  Iodide  of  Lead 4991 

Ointment,  Iodide  of  Potassium .  501 3 
Ointment,  Iodide  of  Sulphur  .  .4950 
Ointment,  Iodine,  Compound.  .4942 
Ointment,  Iodine,  Glycerinated  5015 

Ointment,  lodoform 4992 

Ointment,  Lard 4937 

Ointment,  Lead 4980 

Ointment,  Magnetic 4963 

Ointment,  Mercurial 4947,  5011 

Ointment,  Narcotic 5016 

Ointment,  Nitrate  of  Mercury  .5012 

Ointment,  Obstetric 5341 

Ointment  of  "Three" 5294 

Ointment,  Petroleum 5014 

Ointment,  Resin 4964 

Ointment,  Rheumatic 5293 

Ointment,  Savinc 4938 

Ointment,  Spermaceti 4940 

Ointment,  Starch,  Glycerinatcd5C09 

Ointment.  Stavesacre 4956 

Ointment,  Stramonium 494G 

Ointment,  Sulphur 4908 

Ointment,  TannatcofMagnesia49!)4 

Ointment,  Tannin 4'J8(> 

Ointment,  Tar 4960,  5280 

Ointment,  Tcrtar-cmctic 4995 

Ointment,  Tobacco.  .4CG I,  5290,  &e. 
Ointment,  Venice  Turpentine.. 4958 

Ointment,  Vermin 5395 

Ointment,  Wax 4939 

Ointment,  Wonderful 4895 

Ointment,  Ycllovr  Basilicon ^'JG5 

Ointment,  Zinc 4981 

Old  Tom  Gin,  Imitation C98 

Olefiant  Gas 4051 

Oleinc 1 550 

Olcorcsius 457:5,  4579,  &c. 

Oleorcsin  cf  Elack  Pepper 4583 

Oleorcsin  cf  Capsicum 4580 

Oleoresin  cf  Cubcbs 4581 

Oleorcsin  of  Ginger 4584 

Oleorcsin  cf  Lupulin 4582 

Oleoresin  of  Malo  Fern 4585 

Olive-Drab  Dvc  fcr  Cottons 178 

Olive-Dye  fcr'Cottons 166,  &c. 

Olive-Dye  for  Silks £81 

Olive-Dye  for  Woolens 209,  228 

Olivc-Enamcla 2384 

Olive-Oil  Soft-socp 605 

Olive-Oil,  Test  fcr 1408, 1500 

Olive-Oil,  to  rcfir.c K02 

Onions  as  a  Disinfectant 1706 

Onions,  Pickled 1794 

Onions,  to  correct  tho  Odor  of, 

in  the  Breath 5864 

Onions,  to  preserve 1888 

Onions,  to  prevent  Grub  in 1856 

Opal,  Imitation 2431 

Opiate  Tooth-paste 1320 

Opiated  Wine  of  Colchicum  . .  .5389 

Opium 4268 

Opium,  Antidotca  fcr 5909 

Opium,  Elixir  cf 4735 

Opium  Liniment 4878 

Opium,  Oil  cf 4752 

Opium,  Percentage  of  Morphine 


.3998 


Opium  Pills 4914 

Opium,  Solution  cf 5412 

Opium,  Substitute  fcr 51 32 

Opium,  Tests  for 4269,  4270 

Opium,  Tincture  of 4529 


OPI — OXI 

Opium,  Tincture  of,  Ammonia- 
ted 4530 

Opium,  Tincture  of,  Camphora- 
ted  4527 

Opium,  Tincture  cf,  Compound  4531 
Opodeldoc  46G9,  4870,  5443,  &e.  C404 

Optical  Glass 2352 

Optician's  Cement 2229 

Ormolu 3425 

Orangeade 910 

Orange  Aniline  Dye 25SG 

Orange  Bitters ..." 831 

Orangc-Blossom,  Essence  of...  9G1 

Orange-Blossom  Pomade 12.62 

Orange-Chrome 2707 

Orange-Color  Bronzing 3784 

Orange-Color  Dye  for  Cottons.  159 

Orange-Color  Dye  for  Silks 271 

Orange-Color  Dye  for  "Wood. .  .2835 
Orange-Color  Dye  for  Woolens.  203 

Orange-Color  Hair  Oil 1234 

Orange  Enamels 2385 

Orange  Essence 951 

Orange  Essence,  Artificial 1053 

Orange  Extract 1032 

Orange  Fire 2C89 

Orange-Flower,  Oil  of 1227 

Orange-Flower  Pomade 12G3 

Orange-Flo-wer  Soap 572 

Orange-Flower  Syrup 1417 

Orange-Flower  "Water...  1009,  1071 
1073. 

Orange  Juice,  Imitation 913 

Orange-Marble  for  Books. 3116,3121 

Orangc-Pcel,  Essence  of 951 

Orangc-Peel  Flavoring 6G7 

Orangc-Pcel  Syrup 1382 

Orange  Tint  for  Brass 3383 

Orange  Tonic 5122 

Orange  Syrup 1410 

Ores,  Flux  for  Reducing 3464 

Ores,  Lead,  to  test  the  Rich- 
ness of ' 3255 

Ores,  Iron,  to  test  the  Richness 

of 3259 

Organic  Matter,  Test  for 4395 

Orgeat  Syrup 137G,  1415 

Orgeat  Syrup,  Imitation 1416 

Origanum,  Esscnti::!  Oil  cf 1465 

Ornaments,  Composition  for. .  .2202 

Oroide 3431 

Orris,  Essence  of 949 

Orris  Powder 1101 

Orris  Tooth-paste 1 321 

Orris-Root  Flavoring 669 

Orris- Root,  Fluid  Extract  cf. .  .4579 

Orris-Root  Pomade 3  262 

Osborne's  Syrup 4657 

Osgood's  Indian  Cholagoguc, 

Substitute  for £396 

Ostrich  Feathers,  to  clean C55 

Ottawa  Root  Beer &'2 

Otto  of  Roses 975 

Over-Shoes,  eo  mend C374 

Oxacids 4034 

Oxalatcs oDCO 

Oxalatcof  Iron 4158 

Oxalate  of  Nickel 4178 

Oxalic  Acid 3000 

Oxalic  Acid,  Pure 3903 

Oxalic  Acid,  to   distinguish, 

from  Epsom  Salts 3904 

Oxalic  Acid,  to  obtain 3901 

Ox-Gall  for  removing  Spots 373 

Ox-Gall  for  Washing 489 

Ox-Gall  Soap 552 

Ox-Gall,  to  refine 441 

Oxide,  Carbonic 4064 

Oxide,  Nitric 3872 

Oxide,  Nitrous "872,4060 

Oxide  of  Antimony 4130 

Oxide  of  Barium 4235,  4236 

Oxide  of  Bismuth 4136 

Oxide  of  Chromium 2701 

Oxide  of  Cobalt 4250 

Oxide  of  Copper 4092,  4094,  4095 

Oxide  of  Ethyl 4279 

Oxide  of  Iron 4151, 4153,  &c. 

Oxide  of  Iron,  Testsfor  Solutions 

of 4152,4157 

Oxide  of  Lead 2744,  4 1 06 

Oxide  of  Manganese 4173,  4255 

Oxide  of  Mercury 4141,  4143 


OX  I — PAP 


PAR — PEA 


591 


Oxide  of  Nickel 4175,  4176 

Oxide  of  Nitrogen 4060 

Oxide  of  Silver 4078 

Oxide  of  Tin 4119,  &c. 

Oxide  of  Zinc 4117 

Oxley's  Essence  of  Ginger 4620 

Oxygen 4034 

Oxygen,  to  obtain 4033 

Oxygen  for  Inhalation 4038 

Oxygen,  Tests  for 4040 

Oxygen,  to  obtain 4035,  &c. 

Oxymel 4G90,  &c. 

Oxymel  of  Squills 4092 

Oxymel,  Simple 4691 

Oxymuriate  of  Lime 4245 

Oxysulphuret  of  Antimony 5467 

Pain-Killer....4881,  4882,  5410,  5867 

Pains  after  Child-birth 5722 

Paint,  Fireproof 2772 

Paint,  Flexible,  for  Canvas 2765 

Paint  for  Boat-bottoms 2771 

Paint  for  Boilers 2774 

Paint  for  Iron-work 2768 

Paint  for  Old  Houses 2773 

Paint  for  Out-door  Work. 2766,  &c. 

Paint  for  the  Skin 1107 

Paint  for  Weatherboards 2771 

Paint,  Table  for  Mixing..  .2761,  &c. 

Paint,  to  clean 435 

Paint  Stains,  to  remove  from 

Clothes 339,  <tc. 

Paint,  Sticky,  to  harden 2779 

Paint,  to  economize 2781 

Paint,  to  make,  dry  quickly  . .  .2743 
Paint,  to  remove,  from  Old 

Work 2787 

Paint,  to  remove,  from  Stone.. 278J 
Paint,  to  remove,  from  Wood.  .2788 
Paint,  to  remove  the  Smell  of.  .2776 

Paint,  Varnished,  to  clean 436 

Paint,  when  to  Apply 2755 

Paint  without  Oil  or  Lead 2770 

Paint-Cans,  to  clean 2791 

Paint-Skins,  to  reduce 2775 

Painters,  Caution  to 5539 

Painters'  Colic,  to  cure 0693 

Painters'  Putty 2242 

Painters'  Size 2757 

Painting,  House 2745,  &c. 

Painting  iu  Milk 2769 

Painting,  to  kill  Grease-spots 

before 2778 

Painting,  to  kill  Knots  before.  .2777 
Painting,  to  prepare  Walls  for. 2763 

2780. 
Paintings,  sec  OIL  PAINTINGS. 

Pakfong 3412,  3415 

Palatine-Orange  Aniline  Dye.  .2596 
Palladium,  Electroplating  with  3761 

Palm  Oil 528 

Palm  Oil,  to  bleach 537, 151)9 

Palm  Oil  Soap 543 

Palm  Soap 567 

Palma  Christi  Pomade .'. .  127C 

Palpitation  of  the  Heart,  to  re- 
lieve  576G 

Paneoast's  Alterative  Pills 5106 

Pancoast's  Styptic 5558 

Paper,  Albumeuized  Photo- 
graphic   3132,  3178 

Paper,  Atropino 5807 

Paper,  Bromide  Photographic. 31 72 

Paper,  Calotype 3176 

Paper,  Chromatypc 3173 

Paper,  Copying 1948 

Paper,  Crysotype 317 j 

Paper,  Cyanotypo 3174 

Paper,  Drawing,  Sizes  of G131 

Paper,  Emery 193.) 

Paper,  Fancy,  Cement  for 2159 

Paper,  Fireproof 1041,  &.c. 

Paper  for  producing  Flashes  of 

Colored  Light 2125 

Paper,  Glass,  for  Polishing 1933 

Paper,  Hydrographio 197G 

Paper,  Iodized  Photographic  ..3171 

Paper,  Iridescent 1931 

Paper,  Lithographic 1955,  &c. 

Paper,  Muriated  Photographic  3170 
Paper,  Nitrated  Photographic  3169 

Paper,  Oiled 1939 

Paper,  Parchment 1965 


Paper,  Parchment,  to  paste 1966 

Paper,  Phenyl 1936 

Paper,  Photographic 3168,  3177 

Paper,  Prepared 1925,  &c. 

Paper,  Printed,  to  clean 1973 

Paper,  Soiled,  to  clean 6398,  &c. 

Paper,  Solvent  for 1937 

Paper,  Stone,  for  Polishing 1934 

Paper,  Styptic 5561 

Paper,  Tapioca  Photographic  .3157 

Paper,  Test 4408,  &c. 

Paper,  to  bronze 3793 

Paper,  to  detect  Arsenic  in 4383 

Paper,  to  detect  Plaster  in 1946 

Paper,  to  detect  Wood  in 1947 

Paper,  to  Electrotype,  &c.,  on. 3738 
Paper,  to  extract  Sizing  from.  .6403 
Paper,  to  gild  on. . .  .3574,  3579,  3738 
Paper,  to  prepare,  for  Photo- 
graphy   3131,  &.C.,  3177 

Paper,  to  prepare,  for  Varnish- 
ing  1951 

Paper,  to  remove  Grease  from.  411 
Paper,  to  remove  Water-stains 

from 6398 

Paper,  to  silver 3628,  3738 

Paper,  to  size 1952 

Paper,  to  take  Creases  out  of .  .1963 
Paper,  to  transfer  Engravings 

to 1974 

Paper,  to  unroll  and  flatten 6397 

Paper,  to  varnish 2965 


Paper,  to  write  on  Greasy 2506 

Paper,  Touch,  for  Fireworks.  .2059 

Paper,  Tracing 1927,  &.c. 

Paper,  Transfer 1926 

Paper,  Transparent 1929 

Paper,  Waterproof 1941,  1944 

Paper,  Waxed 1938 

Paper,  Waxed  Photographic  ..3179 

Paper-Hangers'  Paste 2272 

Paper-Hanging 2810,  &c. 

Paper-Hanging,  Glue-sizing  for  2815 
Paper-Hanging  on  Whitewashed 

Walls 2808 

Paper- Hanging.  Paste  for 2812 

Paper- Hanging,   to  prepare 

Walls  for 2811 

Paper-Hanging,  Utensils  for. .  .2812 
Paper-Hanging,  Varnish  for... 2938 

Paper-Hangings,  to  clean 409 

Paper-Hangings,  to  remove 

Grease  from 410 

Paper,  Wall,  to  apply 2814 

Paper,  Wall,  to  prepare,  for 

Hanging 2813 

Papier  Epispastique  do  Veo  . . .  5238 

Papier  Fayard 5237 

Papier  Fayard  et  Blayn 5236 

Papier  Mach6 1945 

Papier  Mach6,  to  clean 415 

Papier  Saxe 3130 

Papyrine 1968 

Paralfa'ne 1527 

Parallelograms,  Areas  of 5989 

Paramalic  Acid 3967 

Paramorphino 4001 

Parcel,  How  to  tic  a 6266 

Parchment,  Artificial 1965 

Parchment  Paper 1965,  &c. 

Parchment  Paper,  to  paste 1966 

Parchment  Size 3559 

Parchment,  to  color 1969 

Parchment,  to  gikl  on 3579 

Parchment  to  make,  transpar- 
ent  .1:6-1 

Parchment,  to  write  on 2506 

Paregoric 4527,  4528 

Parcira,  Fluid  Extract  of 4606 

Pareira  Brava,  Decoction  of.  .5310 
Parent's  Method  of  Preserving 

Wines 761 


Par 
Par 

Par 
Par 
Par 
Par 


s'  Fumigating  Pastils 1333 


RoumfSoap 596 

s  Tablet  Soap 595 


sel's  Citrate  of  Magnesia.  .4806 

sian  Diamonds 2444 

sian  Wash  to  darken  the 


Hair 1183 

Parker's  Cement 2210 

Parlor  Matches 2146 

Parrish's  Aloes  and  Mandrake 

Pills 5191 


Parrish's  Cathartic  Pills 5317 

Parrish's  Chemical  Food 4644 

Purrish's  Cologne  Water 983 

Parrish's  Compound  Tobacco 

Ointment 5292 

Parrish's  Fluid  Extract  of  Bu- 

chu 4590 

Parrish's  Quinine  Pills 5434 

Parrish's  Sarsaparilla  Syrup. . .  1391 

Parrish's  Strawoerry  Syrup 1374 

Parrish's  Syrup  Filter 1359 

Parrish's  Syrup  of  Hypophos- 

phites. . ". 4643 

Parrots,  to  teach,  how  to  Speak  6185 
Parts  by  Volume,  to  reduce,  to 

parts  by  Weight 6152 

Passini's  Antiseptic  Solution..  1661 

iPassy  Water,  Aerated 4472 

Paste,  Almond 1123 

Paste,  Almond  and  Honey 1134 

Paste,  Azure,  for  the  Skin 111.4 

Paste,  Bitter-almond 1124 

Paste,  Depilatory 1223 

Paste,  Flour 2271,  &c. 

Paste  for  Artificial  Gems  2352, 2419 
Paste  for  Cementing  Leather 

or  Cloth'  to  Wood 2275 

Paste  for  cleaning  Brass 3391 

Paste  for  Enamels 2379 

Paste,  Glycerine 2299,  5226 

Paste  for  Gold-plating 3593 

Paste  for  Paper-hanging  2272,  2812 
Paste  for  polishing  Furniture .  2988 
2990. 

Paste  for  Razor-strops 6247 

Paste  for  Silver-plating 3603 

Paste  for  Toothache 5872 

Paste,  Pectoral 5269 

Paste,  Phosphorus,  for  Vermin.  1899 

Paste,  Shaving 1165 

Paste,  to  make  Moulds  of  Fig- 
ures in 3683 

Pasteur's  method  of  preserving 

Wines 759 

Pastilles  aux  Fleurs  d'Orange.  .1342 

Pastilles  a  la  Rose 1343 

Pastilles  a  la  Vunillp 1344 

Pastils  for  Fumigating 1337,  &c. 

Pastils  for  the  Breath. . . .  1336,  5405 
5462. 

Pastils  of  every  Variety 1345 

Patchouli,  Essence  of 966 

Patchouli,  Extract  of 1069 

Pate  d'Amande  an  Miel 1184 

Pate  pour  faire  la  Barbo 1165 

Patent  and  Proprietary  Medi- 
cines   5171,  &o. 

Patent  Base  for  making  Artifi- 
cial Gems 2422 

Patent  Blue  Ink 2481,  2488 

Patent  Boot  Blacking  3092, 3099, 3101 

Patent  Dryer 2739 

Patent  Gelatine 4368 

Patent  Leather,  Polish  for 3072 

Patent  Wash  Mixture 480 

Patent  Yeast 1814 

Patcy's  Orris  Tooth-paste 1321 

Patterson's  Emulsion  of  Pump- 
kin-seeds   5432 

Peach  Brandy 785 

Peach  Brandy,  Imitation 813 

Peach-Colorell  Dye  for  Cottons  174 

Peach  Essence,  Artificial 1C46 

Peach  Flavoring  for  Liquors 674 

6294. 

Peach-Kernels,  Essence  of 943 

Peach- Leaf  Water. 1071,  1073 

Peaches,  to  can 1636,  1 639 

Peaches,  to  dry 1640 

Peaches,  to  keep  fresh..  1638,  1641 
Peale's   Method  of   obtaining 

pure  Silver 3216 

Pear  Essence,  Artificial 1052 

Pear,  Jargonelle,  Essential  Oil 

of 1470 

Pear  Syrup 1411 

Pears,  to  can 1636 

Pears,  to  dry 1640 

Pears,  to  keep  fresh 1638,  1641 

Pearlash,  Commercial 4181 

Pearl  Dentifrice 1303 

Pearl  Powder  for  the  Skin 1110 

Pearl  Tooth  Powder 1303 ' 


592         PEA— PER 

f 

Pearl  White  Dye  for  Silks 263 

Pearl  White  for  the  Skin.  1109,  4135 
Pearson's  Arsenical  Solution.. 5299 

Peau  d'Espagne 1355 

Pectoral  Balsam 5097 

Pectoral,  Cherry 5267 

Pectoral  Drops 5193 

Pectoral  Elixir 5445 

Pectoral  Paste 5269 

Pectoral  Pills 5253 

Pectoral  Syrup 5265 

Pelargonic  Ether 1471 ,  4296 

Pelargoniums,  Mildew  on,  to 

remove 1850 

Peligot's  Bohemian  Tube  Glass  2340 
Pelletier's  Quinine  Dentifrice.  .1304 

Pelletier's  Odontine 1314 

Pellitory,  Fluid  Extract  of 457^ 

Pellitory,  Oil  of 4752 

Pellitory,  Tincture  of,  Com- 
pound   4532 

Pelouze's  German  Silver 3413 

Pelouze's  Process  for  preserving 

Meat 1605 

Pencil,  to,  Brick-work 2792 

Pencil  Drawings,  to  fix ...  1959,  &c. 
Pencil  Drawings,  to  protect... 6363 
Pencils  for  Writing  on  Glass.  .6390 

Pencils,  Lead  for 6197 

Pendulum  Measure 5980 

Pennyroyal,  Essential  Oil  of. . .  1465 
Peony,  see  PCEONIA. 

Pepper,  Black,  Extract  of 1039 

Pepper,  Black,  Oil  of 4752 

Pepper,  Black,  Tincture  [of 4495 

Pepper,  Cayenne 1789 

Pepper  Vinegar 1776 

Peppermint  Brandy 787 

Peppermint,  Essence  of 4610 

Peppermint,  Essential  Oil  of. .  .1465 

Peppermint  Water 4758 

Peppers,  Pickled 1796 

Pepsine 5680 

Pepsine  and  Iron  Pills 4928 

Pepsine,  Bismuth  and  Strych- 
nia, Wine  of 4724 

Pepsine,  Elixir  of 4718,  &c. 

Pepsine  Pills 5457,  5460 

Pepsine,  Syrup  of 4684 

Pepsine  Wine 4721,  4726 

Perchlorates,  see  CHLORATES. 

Perchloric  Acid 3964 

Perchloric  Acid,  to  obtain 3965 

Perchloride  of  Iron,  Solution  of  4816 
Perchlorides,  see  CHLORIDES. 

Percolation 41,  4572 

Percolators 41 

Percussion  Caps,  Priming  for.  .2138 

Percussion  Pellets 2139 

Perfumed  Essences 940 

Perfumed  Oils 1226,  &c. 

Perfumed  Oils  by  Eufleurage..l229 

Perfumed  Oils  by  Infusion 1228 

Perfumed  Oils  from  Essential 

Oils 1227 

Perfumed  Powders 1099,  &c. 

Perfumed  Sealing-wax 2325 

Perfumed  Spirits 940, 976,  998 

Perfumed  Waters 1070  &c. 

Perfumed  Waters,  Practical 

Hints  for 1076 

Perfumed  Waters,  Proportions 

of  Aromaticsfor 1071 

Perfumed  Waters,  Soubeiran's 

Apparatus  for 1077 

Pertumed  Waters,  to  distill 1073 

Perfumed  Waters,  to  prevent, 

from  Souring 1075 

Perfumed  Waters,  to  remove 

the  Burnt  Smell  from 1074 

Perfumers'  Fumigating  Pastils  1339 
Perfumery,  General  Receipts 

for 939,  &c. 

Perfumes,  Acetic 1088 

Perfumes,  Ammoniated 1095 

Perfumes,  Economical 1026 

Peristaltic  Persuader  Pills  5173,5320 

Permanganates 3941,  4190 

Permanganate  of  Potassa3941,  4190 
Permanganate  of  Potassa  Hair 

Dye 1211 

Permanganate  of  Potassa  Solu- 
tion  4796,4798 


PER — PHO 


Permanganate  of  Potassa,  Tests 

for 4191 

Permanganic  Acid 3941 

Permuriates,  see  MURIATES. 
Peroxides,  see  OXIDES. 

Perry's  Toothache  Essence 5874 

Persian  Balsam 5419 

Persoz's  Aniline  Black 2574 

Perspiration  in  the  Feet,  to 

absorb 5846 

Perspiration,  to  preserve  Kid- 
Gloves  from 6243 

Perspiration,  to  remove  Stains 

of 505 

Perspiration,  to  restrain 5786 

Peru,  Balsam  of,  Factitious 5108 

Peru,  Balsam  of,  Test  for 5109 

Peruvian  Bark  and  Protoxide 

of  Iron,  Elixir  of 4702 

Peruvian  Bark,  Decoction  of. .  .5127 
Peruvian  Bark,  Infusion  of, ...  5128 
Peruvian  Bark,  to  prevent  Sedi- 
ment in  Preparations  of 4709 

Peruvian  Bark  Tooth-paste 1310 

Peruvian  Bitters 822 

Peruvian  Lip-salve 1170 

Peruvian  Pomade 1269 

Peruvian  Tooth-paste 1318 

Petalite 4239 

Peter's  Pills 5185 

Petrify,  to,  Wooden  Objects..  .1686 

Petroleum 1526 

Petroleum,  Cement  to  resist 2162 

Petroleum  for  turning  Metals  3449 

Petroleum,  Glycerinated 5014 

Petroleum  Liniment  4877, 5402, 5836 


.1532 


Petroleum,  to  extinguish  Burn- 
ing 


Petroleum,  to  purify 1527 

Pettenkofer's  Test  for  Bile  in 

Urine 4398 

Pettijean's  Silvering  on  Glass.  .3617 

Pew  s  Composition 2173 

Pewter 3422 

Pewter,  Flux  for  Soldering 3483 

Pewter,  Solder  for 3502 

Pfundheller's  Barytes  White. .  .2698 
Pharaoh's  Serpent's  Eggs.  6296, 6297 

Phenic  Acid 3916 

Phenol  or  Phenyle 2588,  3916 

Phenyl,  Hydrate  of 3916 

Phenyl  Paper 1936 

Phials,  to  clean 432 

Phillips'  Fire  Annihilator 6379 

Phillips'  Syrup  of  Sesquichloride 

of  Iron 4665 

Philocome 1270 

Philosophical  Instruments,  Lac- 
quer for 3062 

Phosphates 3920 

Phosphate  for  Manuring 1830 

Phosphate  of  Iron 4631 

Phosphate  of  Iron,  Syrup  of...  4632 

4634. 
Phosphate  of  Iron,  Syrup  of, 

with  Manganese 4634 

Phosphate  of  Iron,  Syrup  of, 

with  Quinine 4628 

Phosphate  of  Iron,  Syrup  of, 

with  Quinine  and  Strychnine  4629 
Phosphate  of  Iron,  Syrup  of, 

with  Strychnine 4630 

Phosphate  of  Iron  and  Lime, 

Syrup  of 4635 

Phosphate  of  Lime 4635 


Phosphate  of  Lime,  Syrup  of. .  .4636 

Phosphate  of  Manganese 4633 

Phosphate  of  Manganese,  Syrup 


of 


.4633 


Phosphate  of  Quinine,  Syrup  of  4627 

Phosphate  of  Soda 4210 

Phosphate  of  Zinc,  Syrup  of.  ..462G 


Phosphides 4332 

Phosphine  Aniline  Dye 2597 

Phosphites 3927 

Phosphorated  Ether 4748 

Phosphorescent  Oil 4339 

Phosphoric  Acid 3920 

Phosphoric  Acid,  Anhydrous.. 3923 
Phosphoric  Acid,  Commercial. 3921 

Phosphoric  Acid,  Dilute 3924 

Phosphoric  Acid,  Glacial  or  Hy 


PHO — PIE 


Phosphoric  Acid,  Tests  for 3925 

3926. 

Phosphorous  Acid 3927 

Phosphorus 4332,  &c. 

Phosphorus,  Antidote  for 5906 

Phosphorus  Bottles 4336 

Phosphorus  Bronzes 3447 

Phosphorus  Paste  for  Verm  in.  1899 
Phosphorus,  to  coat,  with  Cop- 
per  4337 

Phosphorus,  to  obtain 4333 

Phosphorus,  to  reduce,  to  Pow- 
der  4338 

Phosphurets,  see  PHOSPHIDES. 

Phosphuretted  Hydrogen 4055 

Phosphuretted  Hydrogen,  to  ob- 
tain   4056 

Photographers,  India-rubber 

Glue  for 2293 

Photographic  Cliches,  to  make  3142 
Photographic  Impressions  with 

Fuchsine 3156 

Photographs,  Cameo,  to  Enam- 
el  3155 

Photographs,  Collodion  Var- 
nish for 3162 

Photographs,  Developing  Solu- 
tion for 3151,  .3152 

Photographs,  Enamel  for 2402 

Photographs,  Everlasting,. on 

Enamel 3164 

Photographs,  Fixing  Bath  for.  .3139 
Photographs,  Negative,  Gloss 

for 3147,  3148 

Photographs,  Negative,  to  de- 
velop   3144,  3146 

Photographs,  Negative,    to 

make 3142 

Photographs,  Negative,  to  Var- 
nish   3145 

Photographs,  Negative,  Var- 
nish for 3153 

Photographs  on  Wood 3165 

Photographs,  Paper  for .*. .  3168 

Photographs,  Papier Saxe  for.. 31 30 
Photographs,  Preservation  of.  .3163 
Photographs,  Tapioca  Paper 

for 3157 

Photographs,  to  clean  Glass 

for 3160,3185 

Photographs,  Varnish  for.  2932,  2935 
3161. 

Photography 3128,  &c. 

Photography,  Albumenizcd  Pa- 
per for 3132,  3178 

Photography,  Artificial  Ivory 

for 3180 

Photography,  Causes  of  Failure 

in 3154 

Photography,  Collodion  for. . .  .3149 

Photography,  Ivory  for 2010 

Photography,  Precautions  in.. 3141 
Photography,  Silver  Bath  for.. 3150 
Photography,  Solutions  for  3181, &c. 
Photography,  to  prepare  Paper 

for 3131,  &c.,  31ti9,  <fec. 

Photography,  Toning  Bath  for  3137, 

3184. 

Photography,  Wax  Paper  for..  3179 
Photography  without  a  Camera  3129 

3135. 
Physic's  Bitter  Wine  of  Iron.  .4704 

Physic's  Issue  Ointment 5284 

Piccalilli 1805 

Pickle,  to,  Meat 1602,  &c. 


Pickles,  Cautions  in  making..  .1766 
Pickles,  Receipts  for 1790,  &c. 


•ip 

Pickles,  Spiced  Vinegar  for 1791 

Pickles,  to  color,  Green 2636 


Picric  Acid . 
Picture  Frames,  Ornaments 
for. 


drated 3922   Pierre  Artificielle 


.2601 

6234 

Picture  Frames,  to  bronze 3827 

Picture  Frames,  to  clean 2978 

Picture  Frames,  to  gild.  .3559,  &c. 
Picture  Varnishes. .  .2907,  2911,  &c. 

2944. 
Pictures,  Decalcomine,  to  apply  6195 

Pictures,  to  clean 407 

Pierlot's  Solution  of  Valerianate 

of  Ammonia 5390 

Pierquin's  Cough  Syrup 5466 

2196 


PIE — PIN 


PIN — PL  A 


PLA — POM 


593 


Pierre  Divine 5296 

Piesse's  Eau  de  Cologne 977 

Piesse's  Fumigating  Pastils 1340 

Piesse's  Method  of  cleaning 

Printed  Paper 1973 

Pieste's  Toothache  Essence 5875 

Pig  Iron 3258 

Pigments 2673,  &c. 

Pigs,  to  banish  Fleas  from 1913 

Pile,  to  raise  the,  on  Velvet,  &c.  463 

Piles,  Liniment  for 5219 

Piles,  Ointment  for.. 4986,  &c.,  5254 

Piles,  Remedies  for 5708,  &c. 

Piles,  Salve  for 4989 

Pills 4897,  &c. 

Pills,  Aloes 4900 

Pills,  Aloes  and  Assafoatida  . .  .4901 

Pills,  Aloes  and  Mandrake 5191 

Pills,  Aloes  and  Myrrh 4902 

Pills,  Alterative.... 4906,  5162,  5166 
Pills,  Anti bilious... 4907,  5174,  5175 

Pills,  Anti-chill 4908 

Pills,  Aperient 4909 

Pills,  Assafcetida 4903 

Pills,  Blancard's,  Imitation  of  .4930 

Pills,  Blue 4919 

Pills,  Butternut 5319 

Pills,  Calomel 4920 

Pills,  Cathartic..  4917, 5303, 5316,  &c. 

Pills,  Chirayta 5192 

Pills,  Coating  for 5358,  &c. 

Pills,  Colocynth  and  Mandrake  5190 

Pills,  Constipation 5454 

Pills,  Copaiba 4918 

Pills,  Copaiba  and  Pepsine 5457 

Pills,  Cough 5598 

Pills,  Dandelion 4929,  5700 

Pills,  Dinner 5181 

Pills,  Diuretic 4910,  5149 

Pills,  Dyspepsia 5682 

Pills,  Female 5382, 5719,  &c. 

Pills,  Ferruginous 5474 

Pills,  Fever  and  Ague 5581 

Pills,  Galbanum,  Compound ...  4921 

Pills,  Gonorrhoea 4911 

Pills,  Gout..  ..5182,  5187,  5196,  5318 

Pills,  Gravel 5244 

Pills,  Health 5188,  5189 

Pills,  Indian  Cathartic 5303 

Pills,  Indian  Vegetable 5186 

Pills,  Intermittent  Fever  5756,  6420 

Pills,  Iodide  of  Iron 4915,  4930 

Pills,  Iron,  Compound 4916 

Pills,  Mandrake,  Mercurial 4912 

Pills,  Mercurial 4919 

Pills,  Nervous 5573 

Pills,  Opium 4914 

Pills,  Pectoral 5253 

Pills,  Pepsine 5459 

Pills,  Pepsine  and  Iron 4928 

Pills,  Peristaltic  Persuader 5173 

5320. 

Pills,  Podophyllin 4912 

Pills,  Podophyllin  Aloes  and 

Iron 4913 

Pills,  Quinine 4904,  5434 

Pills,  Rhubarb 4922,  4923 

Pills  Salutaria 5189 

Pills  Salutis 5188 

Pills,  Squill 4924 

Pills,  Storax,  Compound 4925 

Pills,  Sulphate  of  Quinine. 4904,  &c. 

Pills,  Sulphite  of  Soda 4927 

Pills,  Sulphur 4926 

Pills.  Taraxacum 4929,  5700 

PiUs|  to  silver  or  gild 4899 

Pills,  to  sugar-coat 4898 

Pills,  Tonic 5125,  5166,  5216 

Pills,  Triplex 5184 

Pills,  Vermifuge 5648 

Pimento,  Essence  of 952 

Pimento,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Pimento,  Fluid  Extract  of 4579 

Pimples,  Remedy  for 5490 

Pin  Spots,   to  remove,    from 

Steel 6304 

Pinchbeck 3348 

Pineapple,  Essence  of,  Artifi- 
cial  953,  1060 

Pineapple,  Oil  of,  Artificial. . . .  4293 

Pineapple   Syrup 1405 

Pink  and  Green,  to  dye  Mixed 
Fabrics 284 


Pink  Fire 2092 

Pink  Lights 2117 

Pink  Pigments 2685 

Pink,  to  color  Fats 1258 

Pink,  to  dye  Silks 248 

Pink,  to  dye  Woolens 201 

Pink-Root,  Fluid  Extract  of 4577 

Pint,  Scotch 6042 

Pipes,  Brandy,  to  plaster 695 

Pipes,  Gas,  to  bend 6316 

Pipes,  Glass,  to  bend 3851 

Pipes,  Rubber,  to  render,  Gas- 
tight 4033 

Pipes,  Water,  to  protect  Lead- 
en   6224 

Pipes,  Water,  to  manage,  in 

Winter 6223 

Piperine 4017 

Pipettes 3832 

Pipsissewa,  Fluid  Extract  of. .  4577 
Pique's,  French  Method  of  Wash- 
ing   490 

Pique's  to  starch 500 

Pistachio  Cream 1139 

Pitch,  to  remove  from  the  Skin, 

Glass,  &c 6421 

Pitch  Stains,  to  remove 339 

Plain  Syrup 1370 

Planks,  to  prevent,  from  Split- 
ting  1678 

Plants,  Cleanliness  needed  for  1871 

Plants,  Compsts  for 1822 

Plants,  Cuttings  of,  to  insert. .  .1832 
Plants,  Cuttings  of,  to  select  and 

manage 1831, 1843 

Plants,  Green'Fly  on,to  destroy  1851 

1854. 
Plants,  Insects  on,  to  destroy..  1845 

1858. 

Plants,  Maggots  on,  to  destroy  1859 
Plants,  Marsh,  to  propagate...  1883 
Plants,  Mildew  on,  to  remove.  .1850 

Plants,  Roots  of,  to  keep 1889 

Plants,  Specimens  of,  to  pre- 
serve  6176,  &c. 

Plants,  to  prevent  Damping  or 

Fogging  off  in 1843 

Plants,  to  fumigate 1852 

Plants,  to  protect,  against  Red 

Spiders 1857 

Plant  Sticks,  to   keep,  from 

Rotting 1874 

Plasma,  Schacht's 5009 

Plasters,  Medicinal 5040,  &c. 

Plaster,  Adhesive  Resin 5046 

Plaster,  Anodyne 5048 

Plaster,  Black 5285 

Plaster,  Blistering 5053 

Plaster,  Burgundy  Pitch 5052 

Plaster,  Cancer 5047 

Plaster,  Cantharides 5053,  &c. 

Plaster,  Carbolic 5061 

Plaster,  Corn 5060 

Plaster,  Cough 5050 

Plaster,  Court 5058 

Plaster,  Depilatory 1224 

Plaster,  Deschamp's 5045 

Plaster,  Devil's 5278 

Plaster,  Diachylon 5043 

Plaster,  Healing 5059 

Plaster,  Irritating 5062 

Plaster,  Lead 5043 

Plaster,  Litharge 5043 

Plaster,  Mustard 5057 

Plaster,  Mustard,Homo3opathic5056 

Plaster,  Nuremberg 5383 

Plaster,  Poor  Man's 5276 

Plaster,  Porous 5275 

Plaster,  Resolvent 5051 

Plaster,  Strengthening 5049 

Plaster,  to  prevent,  from  adher- 
ing to  Paper 5042 

Plaster,  to  spread 5041 

Plaster,  Universal 5277 

Plaster,  Warm 5055 

Plaster,  White  Lead 5044 

Plaster  Casts,  Amalgam  for  Var- 
nishing   3548 

Plaster  Ground  for  Chinese  Ja- 
panning   3040 

Plaster  Moulds,  to  make.  .3677,  &c. 
Plaster  Moulds,  to  prepare,  for 
Electrotyping 3688,  &c. 


Plaster  of  Paris 2020,  4352 

Plaster  of  Paris,  Cement  for. .  .2177 
Plaster  of  Paris,  to  bronze  3792,3823 

Plaster  of  Paris,  to  cast 2031 

Plaster  of  Paris,  to  color 2029 

Plaster  of  Paris,  to  detect,  in 

Paper 1946 

Plaster  of  Paris,  to  dress,  with 

Wax 2023 

Plaster  of  Paris,  to  engrave  on  2021 
Plaster  of  Paris,  to  harden 2022 

2025,  &c. 

Plaster  of  Paris,  to  polish .2030 

Plaster  of  Paris,  to  print  on  . .  .1975 
Plaster  of  Paris,  to  render  hard 

and  durable 2024 

Plastered  Walls,  to  prepare,  for 

Painting 2780 

Plastering  Stuffs  and  Stucco.. 2197 

Plastic  Material 2204 

Plate  Glass 2349,  &c. 

Plated- Ware,  to  clean. 512, 3227,  <fcc. 

Plated- Ware,  to  test 3722 

Platina,  see  PLATINUM. 

Platina  Mohr 3338 

Platinated  Asbestos 3335 

Plating,  Electro 3696,  &o. 

Plating  Powder,  Gold 3591 

Plating  without  a  Battery 3744 

Platinum 3333 

Platinum,  Alloys  of 3423,  3440 

Platinum,  Ammonio-chloride  of  4086 

Platinum,  Black 3338 

Platinum,  Chlorides  of 3220, 4084 

Platinum  Lustre  for  Pottery.. 2417 

Platinum,  Nitro-muriate  of 3220 

Platinum,  Spongy 3336 

Platinum,  Tests  for,  in  Solu- 
tions   4087 

Platinum,  to  coat  Copper  with. 3658 
Platinum,  to  coat  Glass  with.  .3656 
Platinum,  to  coat  Silver  with.. 3670 
Platinum,  to  electroplate  with. 3760 

Platinum,  to  purify 3334 

Plum  Essence,  Artificial 1048 

Plum  Colored  Dye  for  Worsted, 

Silk,  or  Cotton 320 

Plumbago 4164 

Plumbago  Bronzing 3775 

Plumbers'  Cement 2226 

Plumbers'  Solder 3505 

Plumb  Spirit,  for  Dyeing. .  .111,  112 

Plums,  to  can 1636 

Plums,  to  keep,  fresh 1638,  1642 

Plunket's  Cancer  Ointment 5386 

Plush,  to  raise  the  Pile  on 463 

Pneumatic  Trough 4031 

Pocket-Handkerchiefs,  Silk,  to 

wash 477 

Podophyllin  Pills 4912 

Podophyllin  Aloes  and   Iron 

Pills 4913 

Podophyllin,  Tincture  of 4507 

Podophyllum,  Fluid  Extract  of .  4575 

Poeonia  Roots,  to  preserve 1888 

Pointing  Brickwork 2792 

Point  Lace,  to  wash 478 

Poison,  Fly 191$ 

Poison  in  Bitter  Almonds,  to         I 

neutralize 1034 

Poison  Ivy,  Remedies  for.  5930,  <fec. 

Poison  Oak  Leaves,  Oil  of 4752 

Poison  Oak,  Remedies  for.  5930,  &c. 

Poison,  Rat 1897 

Poisoning,  Cases  of,  Treatment 

for 5896 

Poisons,  Antidotes  for 5895,  &c. 

Polish  for  Furniture 2987,  &c. 

Polish  for  Harness 3075 

Polish  for  Patent  Leather 3072 

Polish  for  Turners'  Work 3009 

Polish,  to  make 2996,  &c. 

Polish  White 2760 

Polishers'  Putty 4122 

Polishing 2979,  &c. 

Polishing,  French.  ..2981,  2993,  &c. 

Polishing  Paste 2988 

Polishing  Powder  for  Gold 3204 

Polishing  Powder  for  Specula  6356 
Polishing  Varnished  Surfaces .  2976 

2980,  &c. 

Pollack's  Cement 2211 

Pomade  a  la  Rose 1262 


POM  —  POT 


Pomade  a  la  Vanille  ..........  1262 

Pomade  a  la  Violette  ..........  1263 

Pomade  an  Jasmin  ............  1263 

Pomade  aux  Fleurs  d'Orange.  .1262 

1263. 
Pomade,  Castor  Oil  ............  1276 

Pomade  Cacao,  for  the  Lips  and 

Hands  ......................  H36 

Pomade,  Common  ........  1265,  1266 

Pomade  Centre  1'  Alope"oie  .....  1284 

Pomade,  Creosote  .............  4953 

Pomade,  Crystallized  ..........  1274 

Pomade  de  'Beaut6  ............  1164 

Pomade  de  MiUefleur  .........  1268 

Pomade  de  Ninon  del'Enclos  .1163 
Pomade  de  V6nus  ............  1164 

Pomade  d'Orient  .............  1272 

Pomade  de  Toscanie  ..........  4951 

Pomade  des  Indes  ............  1272 

Pomade  Divine  ...............  1275 

Pomade  for  the  Moustache  ----  1287 

Pomade,  Palma  Christi  ........  1276 

Pomade,  Peruvian  ............  1269 

Pomade,  Plain  ...............  1265 

Pomade  Rosat  for  the  Lips  ----  1135 

Pomade,  Eose  ................  1267 

Pomade,  Tonqnin  .............  1246 

Pomade,  Transparent  .........  1273 

Pomade,  Vanilla  .........  1247,  1271 

Pomades  .................  1252,  &c. 

Pomades,  Essences  for  Scenting  1261 
Pomades  for  Incipient  Bald- 

ness ....................  1279,  &c. 

Pomades  for  strengthening  the 

Hair  ...................  1279,  &c. 

Pomades,  Mixed  or  Compound  1264 
Pomades,  Piesse's  Method  of 

Scenting  ....................  1262 

Pomades,  to  color  Fat  for  ......  1257 

Pomades,  to  finish  off  .........  1256 

Pomades,  to  perfume,  by  Enfleu- 

rage  ........................  1263 

Pomades,  to  perfume,  by  Infu- 

sion ........................  1262 

Pomades,  to  perfume  Fat  for..  1255 
Pomades,  to  purify  Fat  for  1253,  &c. 
Pomatum,  see  POMADE. 
Pomegranate  Hoot,  Fluid  Ex- 

tract of  .....................  4577 

Poncine  Soap  .................  565 

Poor  Man's  Plaster  ............  5276 

Poppy  Oil,  Test  for  ............  1498 

Poppy  Oil,  to  detect,  in  Castor 

OU  .........................  1499 

Porcelain,  Cements  for.  ..2153,  &c, 

2247. 
Porcelain,  Glazes  for  ......  2404,  &c, 

Porcelain,  to  bronze  ...........  3827 

Porcelain,  to  gild  on  ..........  3575 

Porcelain,  to  remove  the  Gild- 

ing from  ....................  3595 

Porcelain,  to  silver  ............  3631 

Pork,  Weight  of,  in  Live  Hogs.  6129 
Pork,  to  dry-salt  ..............  1602 

Pork,  to  pickle,  .....  1602,  1607,  &c. 

Pork,  to  smoke  ................  1600 

Porous  Cloth,  to  waterproof.  ..1553 
Porous  Plaster  ................  5275 

Porphyrization  ..............  25,  31 

Port  Fire  .....................  2102 

Port  Wine,  Imitation  .........  728 

Port  Wine  Stains,  to  remove.  .  369 
Port  Wine,  tofine  .............  746 

Portable  Glue  .................  2308 

Portable  Lemonade  ...........  915 

Porter,  Bitter  Balls  for  ........  870 

Porter,  to  brew  ...............  856 

Porter,  to  fine  .................  747 

Porter,  to  make  Home-brewed,  865 
I  Portland  Cement  ..............  2195 

Portuguese  Weights  and  Mea- 

sures ...................  6089,  &c. 

Postage  Stamp  Mucilage  ......  2300 

Potash  ........................  3974 

Potash,  Caustic  ...........  101,  4192 

Potash,  Caustic,  to  test  ........  584 

Potash,  Caustic  Lyes,  Table  of  .629 
Potash,  Commercial  ...........  4181 

Potash  Lye,  Home-made  ......  550 

Potash  Lye,  Soapmakers'  .....  519 

Potash  Poisons,  Antidotes  for.  5901 
Potash,  Solution  of  ............  4784 

Potassa  .......................  3974 


POT — POW 

Potassa,  Acetate  of 4180 

Potassa  and  Soda,  Tartrate  of  .4213 

Potassa,  Anhydrous 3975 

Potassa,  Bichromate  of,  Substi- 
tute for 4188 

Potassa,  Carbonates  of 4181 

Potassa,  Caustic  .V 3976 

Potassa,  Chlorates  of 4184,  4185 

Potassa,  Chromates  of... 4186,  4187 

Potassa,  Citrate  of 4808 

Potassa,  Cosmetic  Solution  of.  .4856 

Potassa  Gargle 5064 

Potassa,  Hydrate  of 3976,  4192 

Potassa,  Nitrate  of 4194 

Potassa,  Nitrite  of 4189 

Potassa,  Permanganate  of  3941,4190 

Potassa,  Prussiate  of 4200 

Potassa,  Silicate  of 2816,  &c. 

Potassa,  Tartrates  of 4196,  &c. 

Potassa,  Tests  for 3977 

Potassa  with  Lime 4193 

Potassio-Tartrate  of  Antimony  4129 
Potassio- Tartrate  of  Ajitimony 

Ointment 4995 

Potassio-Tartrate  of  Soda 4213 

Potassium,  Bromide  of. 4198 

Potassium,  Chlorideof 4199 

Potassium,  Cyanide  of 4202 

Potassium,  Ferridcyanide  of. .  .4200 
Potassium,  Ferrocyanide  of. ..4201 

Potassium,  Fluid  Alloy  of. 3455 

Potassium,  Iodide  of 4203 

Potassium,  Sulphocyanide  of.  .4205 

Potassium,  Sulphuret  of 4204 

Potato  Poultice 5029 

Potatoes,  Frozen,  Remedy  for..  6204 

Potatoes,  to  dry 1889 

Potatoes,  to  preserve 1888 

Pottery,  Metallic  Lustres  for.. 2414 

Pottery,  to  silver 3630 

Pouchapat,  Essence  of 966 

Poudre  a  la  Vanille  Brune 1105 

Poudre  a  1'CEUlet  Comppsee.  ..1106 

Poudre  Blonde  for  the  Hair 1104 

Poudre  d'Iris 1101 

Poudre  Noir  for  the  Hair 1103 

Poudre  pour  les  Dents 1288,  &c. 

Poultices 5018,  &c. 

Poultice,  Alum 5033 

Poultice,  Bread 5019 

Poultice,  Carrot 5024 

Poultice,  Charcoal 5026 

Poultice,  Chlorinated 5038 

Poultice  for  Festers 5032 

Poultice  for  Gout 5035 

Poultice  for  Sprains,  &c 5025 

Poultice,  Goulard's 5030 

Poultice,  Hemlock 5034 

Poultice,  Indian  Turnip 5028 

Poultice,  Linseed 5023 

Poultice,  Lobelia 5031 

Poultice,  Mustard 5021 

Poultice,  Potato 5029 

Poultice,  Slippery-elm 5020 

Poultice,  Soap 5036 

Poultice,  Vinegar 5037 

Poultice,  Teast 5027 

Poultry,  Dead,  to  keep,  fresh..  1619 

Poultry,  to  clear,  of  Lice 1922 

Pounce 1954 

Pounds,  Ounces,  &c.,  Decimal 

Equivalents  of 5939,  &c. 

Pouret,  Gay-Lussac's 82 

Powder,  Anodyne 5131 

Powder,  Baking 1817 

Powder,  Castillon's 5475 

Powder,  Dover's 5176 

Powder,  Dover's,  Camphorated 5423 

Powder,  Egg 1817 

Powder,  Emetic 5169 

Powder,  Ferruginous 5464 

Powder,  Fertilizing 1829 

Powder,  Fever 5145 

Powder  for  Boots 6319 

Powder  for  boiling  Plated-ware3228 
Powder  for  cleaning  Plated- 

ware 3229 

Powder  for  Gold-plating 3591 

Powder  for  Silver-plating 3600 

Powder,  Gleet 5314 

Powder,  Gregory's 5211,  5414 

Powder,  Infant 5450 

Powder,  Ink 2474 


POW — PRTT 

Powder,  Milk 5471 

Powder,  Nerve 5571 

Powder,  Polishing,  for  Gold.  ..3204 
Powder,  Polishing,  for  Silver.. 3223 
Powder,  Polishing,  for  Specula  6356 

Powder,  Rheumatic 5531 

Powder,  Thompson's  Composi- 
tion  5178 

Powder,  Wart  or  Corn 5825 

Powders,  Anti-incrustation,  for 

Boilers 2334 

Powders,  Blasting 2144 

Powders  for  Filtering 3839 

Powders,  Ginger-beer 902 

Powders,  Lemonade 908,  916 

Powders,  Perfumed,  for  the  Skin, 
1099,  &c. 

Powders,  Spruce-beer 903 

Powders  for  Surface-bronzing. 3794 

Powders  for  Welding 3523,  &c. 

Powders,  Fulminating  < 2136 

Powell's  Cough  Balsam 5442 

Pradier's  Razor-strop  Paste  . .  .6248 

Prairie  Itch,  Remedy  for 5479 

Precious  Stones,  see  GEMS. 

Precipitated  Chalk 1291 

Precipitates,  Moist,  to  find  the 

Dry-weight  of 3852 

Precipitates,  to  filter 3837 

Precipitation 24 

Pregnancy,  Remedy  for  After- 
pains  5722 

Pregnancy,  to  relieve  Vomiting 

in 5720 

Preparations,  Acid,  of  Tin  107,  &c. 
Preparations,  Anatomical,  An- 
tiseptics for 1651,  &o. 

Preparations,  Medicinal 33 

Prepared  Bran  for  the  Hair 1102 

Prepared  Chalk 1292 

Prepared  Charcoal 1294 

Prepared  Ox-gall 373 

Prepared  Paper,  see  PAPER.. 
Prescriptions,  Signs  used  in... 5964 

Preservatives 1598 

Preservative  against  Infection  1708 
Preservative  Fluids  for  Micro- 
scopic Objects 1662 

Preserving,  see  ARTICLE  to  be 

preserved. 

Preventives,  see  OBJECT  to  be 
prevented. 

Preventive  Lotions 4825 

Pricked  Wine,  to  remedy 752 

Prickly-Ash  Bark,   Fluid  Ex- 
tract of 4579 

Prickly- Ash  Berries,  Tincture  of4536 
Priming  for  House-pain  ting...  2746 

Prince  Rupert's  Drops 2373 

Prince's  Metal 3348 

Printer's  Inks 2543,  &c. 

Printer's  Ink,  Varnish  for 2897 

Printer's  Ink  Rollers,  Compo- 
sition for 2541 

Printer's  Ink  Rollers,  to  clean. 2542 
6337. 

Printing  Ink,  to  remove 404 

Prints,  Colored,  to  look  like  Oil 

Paintings 2964 

Prints,  to  gild  the  Background 

of 2945 

Prints,  to  mount 6407 

Prints,  Varnish  for 2938,  2944 

Procter's  classified  Fluid  Ex- 
tracts  4573,  &c. 

Procter's  'Extract  of  Arnica. .  .4751 
Procter's  Fluid  Extract  of  Hops  4594 
Procter's  Fluid  Extract  of  Li- 
quorice   4595 

Procter's  Fluid  Extract  of  Wild- 
cherry  Bark 4589 

Procter's  Rennet  Wine 4713 

Procter's  Syrup  of  Hypophos- 

phites 4641 

Procter's  Syrup  of  Tolu 4677 

Procter's  V  ermifuge 5428 

Proof  Spirit 1436 

Proportions  of  the  Human  Body  6148 
Protochlorides,  see  CHLORIDES. 
Protoxides,  see  OXIDES. 

Provins  Water 4470 

Prune  Flavoring  for  Liquors . .  664 
Prussian  Blue,  2674,  &c.,  4167,  4169 


PRU — QTJI 


QUI — RED 


RED — RHTJ 


595 


Prussian  Blue,  Soluble 2615 

Prussian  Blue,  to  test 2479 

Prussian  Money 6080 

Prussian  "Weights  andMeasures 

6081,  &c. 

Prussiates 3956 

Prussiate  of  Copper 4098 

Prussiate  of  Potash 4200,  4201 

Prussia  Acid 3947 

Prussic  Acid,  Action  of,  on  Iron  2676 

Prussia  Acid,  Anhydrous 3948 

Prussic  Acid,  Antidotes  for... 5911 

Prussic  Acid,  Dilute 3949 

Prussic  Acid  Lotion 4833 

Prussic  Acid,  Tests  for.. 3950,  3951 

Psyche,  Cremede 1137 

Puce  Dye  for  Cottons 169,  175 

Puce  Dye  for  Woolens 212 

Puffer's  Root  Beer 890 

Pullna  Water,    Aerated 4446 

Pullna  Water,  Salts  for  making  4447 

Pulmonary  Balsam 5601 

Pulmonary  Syrup 5600 

Pulp,  to  find  the  Dry-weight  of.  3852 

Pulverization 25 

Pumice-Stone,  to  prepare,   for 

use 3014 

Pumpkin  Seeds,  Emulsion  of.  .5432 

Punch,  Brandy 919 

Punch,  Claret 921 

Punch,  Milk 918 

Punch,  Regent 928 

Punch,  Rum 710 

Punch   Syrup  for  Cordials 1383 

Punch,  Whiskey 920 

Punch,  Wine 711,  &c. 

Purcher's  Iron-coating  for  Zinc  3654 
Purifying,  see  ARTICLE  to  be 

purified. 
Purple  Aniline  Dyes  .2607,  &c.,2611 

Purple  Dye  for  Cottons 171,  &c. 

Purple  Dye  for  Ivory 1988 

Purple  Dye  for  Wood . 2834 

Purple  Dye  for  Woolens. .  .218,  229 

Purple  Enamels 2386 

Purple  Fire 2077,  2090 

Purple  Ink 2494 

Purple  Marble  for  Bookbinders  3122 

Purple  Marking  Ink 2512 

Purple  of  Cassius 2720,  &c. 

Purple  Stain  for  Glass 2361 

Purple  Stain  for  Wood 2861 

Purpurate  of  Ammonia 4224 

Puscher's  Solution  for  coloring 

Metals 3188 

Putrefaction 16 

Putrid  Fermentation 16 

Putty,  Hard  or  Old,  to  remove. 2785 

2786. 
Putty,  Hard,  to  soften.  ..2784,  2790 

Putty,  Painters' 2242 

Putty,  Quick  Hardening 2243 

Putty,  to  remove,  from  Glass.. 2783 
Putty,  to  soften,  in  Window 

Frames 2784 

Putty,  Wax,  for  leaky  Casks..  696 
Puttying  in  House-painting . .  .2748 
Pyrethrum,  Fluid  Extract  of.  .4579 
Pyrmont  Water,  Aerated4448,  4473 

Py rogaUic  Acid 3909,  3910 

Pyrogallic  Hair-dye 1200 

Pyrolusite 4255 

Pyrophorus 4340,  &c. 

Pyrophosphate  of  Iron 4737 

Pyrotechny 2048,  &c. 

Quartz,  to  pulverize 25 

Quassia,  Tincture  of 4562 

Queen's  Root,  Fluid  Extract  of  4587 

Queen's  Root,  Syrup  of 4672 

Queen's  Root,  Syrup  of,   Com- 
pound   4673 

Queen's  Root,  Tincture  of 4508 

Quesneville's  Ferruginous  Pow- 
der   5464 

Quick  Lime 3994 

Quick  Match 2060 

Quicksilver,  see  MERCURY. 

Quills,  to  clarify 6314 

Quin  Sauce 1757 

Quince,  Artificial  Essence  of.  .4296 
Quince,  Essential  Oil  of,  Arti- 
ficial   1471 


ince  Mucilage 1154  I  Red  Dye,  Aniline332, 2575,  &c.,  2612 

luinces,  to  can 1634    Red  Dye  for  Cottons 153 


Quinces,  to  dry 1640 

Quinces,  to  keep  fresh 1638, 1641 

Quinicine 4004 

Quinidine * 4004,4028 

Quinine  or  Quinia 4003 

Quinine  Ague  Mixture. .  .5582, 5584 

Quinine,  Amorphous 4004 

Quinine,  Caution  in  the  use  of.  .5583 

Quinine  Dentifrice 1304 

Quinine,  Essence  of 4624 

Quinine,  Hydriodate  of 4264 

Quinine,  Percentage  of.  in  Bark  4027 

Quinine  Pills 4904,  4905,  5434 

Quinine,  Sulphate  of 4265 

Quinine,  Test  for  Quinidine  in. 4029 
Quinine,  Test  for  Strength  of.  .4026 

Quinine,  to  dissolve 5578 

Quinine  Toothpaste 1319 

Quinine  Wine 5199 

Quinoidine 4004 

Quinometry 4025 

Quinsy,  Symptoms  of 5630 

Quinsy,  Treatment  of 5631 

Rabbit  Skins,  to  cure 649 

Radius'  Camphor  Chilblain  Oint- 
ment   5403 

Radway 's  Ready  Relief 5335 

Radway's  Renovating  Resol- 
vent  5336 

Rags,  Woolen,  to  bleach 1726 

Raisin  Flavoring  for  Liquors. .  665 

Raisin  Wine 729 

Rukusiri,  Balm  of 5115 

Rape  Oil,  Test  for 1497,  1499 

Rape  Oil,  to  detect,  in  Olive  Oil  1498 

Raspberries,  to  can 1636 

Raspberry,  Currant  and  Cherry 

Wine 728 

i  Raspberry  Essence,  Artificial.  .1057 

Raspberry  Shrub 905 

Raspberry  Syrup  for  Cordials .  .1372 
Raspberry  Syrup  for  Soda  Wa- 
ter  1403 

Raspberry  Syrup,  Imitation.  ..1373 
1403. 

Raspberry  Vinegar 1779,  &c. 

Raspberry  Wine 728 

Ratafia 790 

Rattlesnake  Poison,   Antidote 

for 5924,  &c. 

Rats,  Bait  for 1895 

Rats,  Phosphorus  Paste  for 1899 

Rats,  Poison  for 1897 

Rats,  to  catch 1893 

Rats,  to  drive  away 1898, 1923 

Rats,  Trap  for 1894 

Razors,  to  hone 6245 

Razors,  to  sharpen 6250 

Razors,  to  strop 6249 

Razor-Strop,  the  best 6246 

Razor-Strops,  Paste  for 6247 

Reade's  Blue  Writing  Fluid  . .  .2488 
Reagents,  to  restore  Colors  de- 
stroyed by 362 

Reaumur,  Fahrenheit  and  Cen- 
tigrade compared 92 

Reaumur,  to  reduce  Degrees  of 

Centigrade  to 91 

Reaumur,  to  reduce  Degrees  of 

Fahrenheitto 89 

Reaumur,  to  reduce  Degrees  of, 

to  Centigrade 90 

Reaumur,  to  reduce  Degrees  of, 

to  Fahrenheit 88 

Reaumur's  Thermometer 85 

Rebling's  Method  of  Purifying 

Honey 1567 

R6boulet's  Antiseptic  Solution .  1658 

Rectification 3848 

Rectified  Spirits 1435 

Rectifying  Tub,  to  pack  a 938 

Red  A'nts,  to  exterminate 1910 

Red  Bark,  Tincture  of 5544 

Red  Bengal  Lights 2072 

Red  Bronzing  Powder 3794 

Red  Cabbage,  Pickled 1800 

Red  Cement 2190,  2227 

Red  Copying  Paper 1926,  1948 

Red  Currant  Wine 728 

Red  Drops 5376,  5411 


Red  Dye  for  Feathers 328 

Red  Dye  for  Ivory 1985,  &c. 

Red  Dye  for  Silks 247,  250 

Red  Dye  for  Wood 2831,  &c. 

Red  Dye  for  Woolens 197 

Red  Enamels 2388 

Red  Fire 2087,  2109 

Red  Foil  for  Imitation  Gems.  .2453 

Red  Frontignac  Wine 6419 

Red  Hair-dye 1204,  &c. 

Red  Hair-oil 1233 

Red  Ink 2498,  &c. 

Red  Lacquer 3060,  <fec. 

Red-Lead,  Antidotes  for 5908 

Red-Lead  Cement 2169 

Red  Lights 2116 

Red  Lights  for  Indoors 2123 

Red  Lip-salve 1170 

Red  Liquor  for  Dyeing 100 

Red  Marble  for  Book-covers. .  .3112 

Red  Pigments 2704,  2706,  2718 

Red  Precipitate 4141 

Red  Salve 4972 

Red  Sealing-wax 2313 

Red  Spider,  to  protect  Plants 

from 1857 

Red  Spirits  for  Dyeing 108 

Red  Sprinkle  for  Books 3126 

Red  Stain  for  Furniture 2856 

Red  Stain  for  Glass 2361 

Red  Stain  for  Marble 2043 

Red,  Turkey,  French  Process  for 

Dyeing 189 

Red  Wash  for  Bricks 2809 

Red  Wash,  Mercurial 4848 

Red  Wines,  to  fine 745 

Reduction 26 

Redwood's  Indelible  Marking 

Ink 2508 

Redwood's  Nervine  Balsam  . .  .5340 

Redwood's  Red  Ink 2503 

Recce's  Pills 5192 

Reef  Knot,  to  tie  a 6262 

Regent  Punch 928 

Regnault's  Pectoral  Paste 5269 

Remedies,  see  COMPLAINT  to  be 

remedied. 

Remoussin's  Antisyphilitic  Gar- 
gle  5415 

Rennet 1595 

Rennet,  Essence  of 1596 

Rennet  Wine 4713 

Rensch's  Arsenic  Test 3937 

Reps,  Worsted,  to  clean 451 

Resin  Cerate,  Compound 5003 

Resin  Ointment 4964 

Resin  Plaster,  Adhesive 5046 

Resin  Soap 541 

Resin  Spots,  to  remove,  from 

Silk 338 

Resin,  Sugar 4313 

Resin,  to  harden  Tallow  with. .  641 

Resolvent  Plaster 5051 

Restoration    after    apparent 

Drowning. 5893 

Retorts  for  Distillation 13 

Retorts,  Gas,  Cement  for 2234 

Retorts,  Lutes  for 2265,  &c. 

Reveil's  Solution  of  Permangan- 
ate of  Potassa 4797 

Rhatany,  Tincture  of 4563 

Rheumatic  Alterative 5535 

Rheumatic  Decoction 5540 

Rheumatic  Liniment 4884,   &o. 

Rheumatism,  Causes  of 5525 

Rheumatism,  Chronic,  to  cure. 5529 

5537. 
Rheumatism,  Inflammatory,  to 

cure 5533,  <tc. 

Rheumatism,  Nature  of 5524 

Rheumatism,  Remedies  for5526,&c. 
Rheumatism,  Syphilitic,  to  cure  5537 

Rheumatism,  Wine  for 5408 

Rhodium  Wood,EssentialOilofl465 
Rhubarb  and  Senna,  Syrup  of.  .4639 
Rhubarb  and  Senna, Tinctureof 4523 
Rhubarb,  Fluid  Extract  of,  Al- 
kaline   4586,  4591 

Rhubarb  Pills 4922 

Rhubarb  Pills,  Compound 4923 

Rhubarb,  Syrup  of 4638, 4640 


596          RHU — ROS 

Rhubarb,  Syrup  of,  Alkaline. .  .4675 
Rhubarb,  Syrup  of,  German  . .  .4674 

Rhubarb,  Tincture  of 4522 

Rhubarb,  Tincture  of,  Alkaline  5356 
Rhubarb,  Tincture  of,  Aqueous  4546 
Rhubarb,  Tincture  of,  Sweet  ..4545 

Rhubarb  Wine 734 

Rhubarb-Root,  to  dry 1889 

Ribbons,  to  clean 437 

Ribbons,  to  preserve 6202 

Ribbons,  to  restore  creased 464 

Ribron's  Rattlesnake  Antidote  5924 
Rice  Marble  for  Book-covers  .  .3115 
Ricord  &  Favrot's  Capsules  of 

Copaiba 5416 

Ricord  &  Favrot's  Capsules  of 

Copaiba  and  Tar 5417 

Ricord's  Aromatic  "Wine 5348 

Ricord's  Copaiba  and  Pepsine 

Pills 5457 

Ricord's  Gonorrhoea  Injection. 5439 
5738. 

Riegler's  Fever  Tincture 5371 

Riga  Balsam 5094 

Ring,  to  remove  a  tight,  from 

the  Finger 6213 

Ringworm,  Remedies  for.  5495,  5488 

Rinmann's  Green  Pigment 2714 

Ripe  Gooseberry  "Wine 735 

Roaches,  to  drive  away 1923 

Roaches,  to  exterminate 1901 

Roche  Alnm 4256 

Rochelle  Salt 42J  3 

Roche's  Diptheria  Remedy 5639 

Roche's  Embrocation 5257 

Rocket  Cases,  to  make 2050 

Rockets,  Chinese  Fire  for 2055 

Rockets,  Composition  for  charg- 
ing   2054 

Rockets,  Display 2051 

Rockets,  Garniture  for 2055,  &c. 

Rockets,  Plain 2050 

Rockets,  to  charge 2052 

Rocks,  &c.,  "Weight  of 6134 

Roman  Candles 2062 

Roman  Candles,  Composition 

,      for  charging 2063 

Roman  Candles,  Stars  for. 2058,2064 

Roman  Cement 2203 

Roman  Money,  Ancient 6057 

Roman  Money,  Modern 6079 

Roman  Vitriol 120 

Roman  Weights  and  Measures  6057 
6079. 

Rondeletia,  Bouquet  de 1066 

Rondeletia,  Essence  or  Extrait 

de 946, 1062 

Roofs,  Leaky,  Cement  for 2224 

Rooms,  Cement  for  Coating  . .  .2171 

Root  Beer 889,  &c. 

Roots,  Bulbous,  to  preserve 1888 

Roots,  to  extract  Essential  Oil 

from 46 

Roots,  to  dry 1889 

Roots,  Tuberous,  to  preserve . . .  1888 

Rope,  Weightof 6137 

Ropiness  in  Beer,  to  remedy. . .  881 
Ropiness  in  Wine,  to  remedy. .  749 

Rosaniline 2553 

Rosat,  Pomade,  for  the  Lips. .  .1135 

Rose  Bandoline 1195 

Rose,  Esprit  do 1001 

Rose  Glycerine  Cream 1130 

Rose  Lip-salve 1171 

Rose,  Oil  of 1227, 1229,  4752 

Rose,  Oil  of,  Test  for 1484 

Rose,  Pastilles  a  la 1343 

Rose  Pomade 1262, 1267 

Rose  Soap 563 

Rose  Water 1008 

Rose  Water,  to  distal  1071, 1073,1079 
Rose-Bushcs,  Composition  for 

Wounds  on 1877 

Rose-Bushes,  Insects  on,  to  re- 
move  1846 

Rose-Bushes,  Maggots  on,  to 

destroy 1859 

Rose-Bushes,  Mildew  on,  to  re- 
move   1850 

Rose-Bushes,  Soot- water  for...  1841 
Rose-Colored  Dye  for  Veneers. 2840 
Rose-Colored  Dye  for  Wood. .  .2833 
Rose-Colored  Enamels 2391 


Rose-Colored  Fire 2093 

Rose-Pink  Pigment 2685 

Roses  Alcoholate  of 1017 


Roses 


Attar  or  Otto  of 975 


Roses  Attar  of,  Test  for 1484 

Roses  Bloom  of 1113 

Roses  Essence  of 944,  &c. 

Roses  Extractof 1035 

Roses  Honey  of 4694 

Roses  Infusion  of 4739 

Roses  Milk  of 1140 

Rosemary,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Rosewood,  to  imitate 2851 

Rother's  Soap  Liniment 6404 

Rouges  for  the  Skin 1099,  &c. 

Rouget's  Method  of  fixing  Draw- 
ings   1959 

Round  Soap,  Paris 596 

Rousseau's  Laudanum 5468 

Royal-Blue  Dye  for  Cottons 133 

Royal-Blue  Dye  for  Silks 257 

Royale,  Eau 994 

Royale,  Essence 960 

Rubefacients 5081,  &c. 

Rubefacient  Solution  of  Iodine.  5422 

Rubus,  Fluid  Extract  of 4577 

Ruby-Colored  Dyes  for  Silks  ...  253 

Ruby  Foil 2458 

Ruby,  Imitation 2355,  2432,  2445 

Rue,  Oil  of 4752 

Rue,  Oil  of,  Test  for 1486 

Rugs,  Hearth,  to  clean 445 

Rugs,  Sheepskin,  to  clean 420 

Ruhmkorf's  Zinc  Amalgama- 
ting Fluid 3555 

Rules  for  the  Treatment  of  Al- 
cohol  1449,  &c. 

Rum 1435 

Rum,  Imitation 699,  702 

Rum,  New  England,  Distillation 

of 931,  &c. 

Rum,  New  England,  Mash  for. 932 
Rum,  New  England,  Yeast  for.  932 

Rum  Punch 710 

Rum,  Test  for 4407 

Runge's  Black  Ink 2483 

Rupture,  Treatment  of 5770 

Russia  Leather 644 

Russia  Salve 5343 

Russian  Liquid  Glue 2286 

Russian  Money 6071 

Russian  Remedy  for  Chilblains  5842 
Russian  Weights  and  Measures  6072 

Rust  Joint  Cement 2167 

Rust,  to  protect  Iron  against. .  .3267 
Rust,  to  protect  Steel  against.  .3306 
Rust,  to  remove.from  Flat-irons  6228 

Rust,  to  remove,  from  Iron 3266 

Rust,  to  remove,  from  Steel 3308 

Rust-Spots,  to  remove,   from 

Marble 514 

Ryan's  Gleet-powder' 5314 

Rye  Whiskey,  Distillationof931,&c. 

Rye  Whiskey,  Imitation 688 

Rypophagon  Soap 603 

Saccharine  Carbonate  of  Iron.  .4163 

Saccharine  Fermentation 16 

Saccharometer,  Baume's64,&c.,61.r>5 
Saccharometer  used  by  Brewers  858 
Sachets,  Vanilla  Powder  for. .  .1105 

Sachets,  Violet  Powder  for 1106 

Safflower-Lake  Pigment 2683 

Safranine  Aniline  Dye 2578 

Sage-Green  Dye  for  Cottons. ..  165 
Sage  Water,  to  distill..  ..1071,  1073 

St.  John  Long's  Liniment 5281 

St.  John's  Bread  Flavoring  for 

Liquors 666 

St.  John's  Wort,  Oil  of 4752 

St.  John's  Wort,  Tincture  of. .  .4501 

Sal  Ammoniac 4222 

Sal  Enixum 3470 

Sal  Soda 4208 

Sal  Volatile,  Spirit  of 1096 

Salicine 4021 

Salmon-Color  Dye  for  Silks. 270,  313 

Salt  of  Lemons,  Essential 378 

Salt  of  Tartar 4181 

Salt  of  Wormwood 4181 

Salt  Rheum  Ointment 4962 

Salt  Rheum,  Remedy  for 5482 

Salt,  Table 4215 


SAL — SCB 

Salt,  to,  Meat 1602,  &c. 

Salt  Water,  to  wash  in 484 

Saltpetre 41<M 

Saltpetre,  to  purify 4195 

Salts,  Chemical 3853 

Salts,  Smelling 1089,  &c., 

Salves  or  Cerates 4931,  &c. 

Salve,  Black,  or  Healing 4971 

Salve,  Carbolic 4993,  4996 

Salvo,  Egyptiacum 5004 

Salve,  Family ; 4935 

Salve  for  all  Wounds 4936 

Salve  for  Sore  Breasts 4990 

Salvo  for  the  Lips 1170,  &c. 

Salve,  German  Black 5007 

Salve,  Goulard's 5476 

Salve,  Green  Mountain 5345 

Salve,  Green  Stick 4970,  4973 

Salve,  Healing 5285 

Salve,  Hemlock 4969 

Salve,  Neutral 5378 

Salve,  Red 4972 

Salvo,  Resin,  Compound 5003 

Salve,  Russia 5343 

Salve,  Saturnine 4968 

Salve,  Savine 4997 

Salve,  Simple 4932 

Salve,  Spermaceti 4933 


Salve,  Turner's 


.5289 


Salve,  Zinc 5379 

Sampson's  New  York  Pills 5300 

SandBath 4 

Sand-Soap  Balls 575 

Sandal  Wood,  Essential  Oil  of.  1465 

Sandarach  French  Polish 2999 

Santa  Cruz  Rum,  Imitation  ...  699 

Santa  Cruz  Sour 926 

Santonato  of  Soda 4649 

Santonate  of  Soda,  Syrup  of  ..  .4650 

Santonin  Lozenges 5463 

Santonin,  Solution  of 4794 

Santonin,  Syrup  of 4668 

Sap  Green .-..2686 

Saponine 6332 

Sapphire,  Imitation 2358,  2433 

Sarcine 4014 

Sarcosine 4013 

Sard's  Cement 2171 

Sarsaparilla,  Fluid  Extract  of.  .4577 

Sarsaparilla  Syrup 1391 

Sarsaparilla,  Syrup  of,  Compound 

4655. 

Sarsaparilla  Syrup  for  Soda- 
water 1389,  &c. 

Sash  Windows,  to  keep  Open  ..  62(18 

Sassafras,  Essential  Oil  or 1465 

Sassafras  Flavoring  for  Liquors  670 
Sassafras  Water,  to  distill  1071,1073 
Satin  Shoes,  White,  to  clean...  455 

Satins,  to  clean 460 

Saturated  Solution 29 

Saturated  Solutions,    Boiling 

Heat  of 7 

Saturation 27,  3846 

Saturnine  Cerate 4968 

Sauces,  General  Receipts  for..  1753 
Saunders'  Petroleum  Embroca- 
tion   5402 

Savino  Cerate 4997 

Savine,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Savine  Ointment 4938 

Savon  au  Bouquet 564 

Savory  Spices,  Essence  of 1764 

Savory  Spices,  Tincture  of 1765 

Saws,  Broken,  to  solder 3512 

Saws,  to  sharpen  and  set 6254 

Scalded  Mouth,  Remedy  for... 5519 

Scalds,  Liniment  for 5472 

Scalds,  Remedies  for 5517,  &c. 

Scalo,  Wash  to  cleanse  the 1187 

Scarlatina,   Remedy  for 5754 

Scarlatina,  Treatment  of.  .5751,  &c. 

Scarlet  Aniline  Dye 2582,  &c. 

Scarlet  Dye  for  Cottons 155 

Scarlet  Dye  for  Feathers 330 

Scarlet  Dye  for  Silks 249,  252 

Scarlet  Dye  for  Woolens  196,199,322 
Scarlet  Fever,  Preventive 

against 5753 

Scarlet  Fever,  Remedy  for 5755 

Scarlet  Fever,  Treatment  of  .  .5750 

Scarlet  Spirit  for  Dyeing 199 

Scented  Oils ...1226 


SCE— SKV 


SHA — SIL 


SIL — SIL 


597 


Scents  for  Candles 1351 

Scents  for  Cigars 1350 

Scents  for  Pomades 1261 

Scents  for  Snuff 1352 

Scents  for  Tobacco 1350 

Scents,  Mixed 1243 

Schachts'  Glycerinated  Plasmas 

or  Ointments 5010,  <fec. 

Schachts'  Glycerine   of  Starch 

or  Plasma 5009 

Scheele's  Green 2711 

Schiedam  Gin,  Imitation 697 

Schiff  s  Aniline  Yellow 2580 

Schiffs  Table  of  Soda  Solutions  628 

Schist 4256 

Schlippe's  Salt 4133 

Schuster's  Alkalimeter  or  Acid- 

imcter 82 

Schwarz's  Liniment  for  Burns. 5472 

Scorched  Linen,  to  restore 504 

Scotch  Whiskey,  Imitation 691 

Scott's  Pills,  Anderson's 5180 

Scouring  Balls 349,  374 

Scovill's  Syrup  of  Sarsaparilla.4656 

Scrapers,  Steel,  to  Make 6259 

Scratch  Brush  for  cleaning  Met- 
als   3381,  3706 

Scratches,  Treatment  of 5498 

Scriptural  Money 6069 

Scriptural  Weights  and  Mea- 
sures  6065,  &c. 

Scrofula,  Remedy  for 5773 

Scullcap,  Fluid  Extract  of 4601 

Scupperuong  Champagne 721 

Scurvy-Grass  Water,  to  distill.  1071 
1073. 

Sea-Salt,  Imitation 4460 

Sea-Salt,  Pure 3209 

Sea-Sickness,  Remedy  for 5339 

Sea-Sickness,  to  prevent. 5235,  5779 

Sea-Sicknessj  to  relieve 5778 

Sea-Water 4459 

Sea-Water,  Artificial,  for  Aqua- 
ria   6198 

Sealing  Cements  for  Bottles.  ..2238 

Sealing- Wax 2312,  &c. 

Sealing- Wax,  Black 2310 

Sealing-Wax,  Blue 23*^2 

Sealing- Wax,  Brown 2321 

Sealing-Wax  for  Bottle-corks.  929 

Sealing-Wax  for  Diplomas 2327 

Sealing-Wax,  Gold-colored 2318 

Sealing-Wax,  Green 2324 

Selling- Wax,  Marbled 2319 

Sealing-Wax,  Perfumed 2325 

Sealing-Wax,  Proof   Impres- 
sions in 2328 

Sealing-Wax,  Red 2313,  2315 

Sealing-Wax,  to  improve  the 

Appearance  of 2326 

Sealing-Wax,  to  polish 2314 

Sealing-Wax  Varnish 3044 

Sealing-Wax,  Yellow 2320 

Searing's  Photography  on  Wood 

3165. 

Secret  Writing,  Inks  for.. 2533,  &c. 
Seeds,  Cucumber  and  Melon,  to 

clean 1864 

Seeds,  Cucumber  and  Melon,  to 

prove 1863 

Seeds,  to  prepare  for  Exporta- 
tion   1884 

Seidlitz  Powders 4450 

Seidlitz  Water 4449 

Seidschutz  Water,  Aerated 4452 

Seignette's  Salt 4213 

Self-Feeding  Filter 17,  3840 

Sellers  or  Seltzer  Water,  Aera- 
ted   4453 

Seneka,  Fluid  Extract  of.  4576,  4598 

Seneka,  Syrup  of 4658 

Senna  and  Jalap,  Fluid  Extract 

of 4603 

Senna  Powder 5232 

Senna,  to  disguise  the  Taste  of.  5892 

Separating  Funnels 3831 

Serpentaria,  Fluid  Extract  of.  .4576 

Serpentaria,  Tincture  of 4525 

Sesquicarbonates,  see  CARBONATES. 
Sesquichlorides,  see  CHLOUIDES. 
Sesquimuriates,  see  MURIATES. 
Sesquioxides,  see  OXIDES. 
S«ven  Years'  Itch,  Remedy  for  54 79 


Shaker  Soft  Soap 009 

Shallot  Vinegar 1775 

Shampoo  Mixtures 1188,  &c. 

Shaving 6244 

Shaving  Cream 602,  <tc. 

Shaving,  Lotion  after 1158,  4833 

Shaving,  Lotion  before 4833 

Shaving  Paste 1165 

Shaving  Soap 597,  603 

Shaving  Wash 1161 

Shavings,  to  Acetify,  for  Vine- 
gar  1736 

Shawls,  Woolen,  to  wash 406 

Shear  Steel 3275 

Sheeps1  Pelts,  to  tan 646 

Sheepskin  Mats,  to  clean 420 

Sheepskins,  to  prepare,  for  Mats  C47 

Sheet-Bend  Knot,  to  tie  a G261 

Sheeting,  to  bleach 509 

Shell  Gold 3569 

Shell  Lime 3994 

Shells,  to  clean 6187 

Shells,  to  color 0188 

Shells,  to  etch  on 6186 

Shellac,  Filter  for 2934 

Shellac  Ink 2484 

Shellac,  to  bleach 1723 

Shellac,  to  dissolve,  in  Ammo- 
nia  6222 

Shellac,  to  dissolve,  in  Spirit.. 2906 

Shellac  Varnish 2923, 2933,  &c. 

Sherbet 904 

Sherbet  Syrup 1421 

Sherry  Cobbler 922 

Shinn's  Bitter  Wine  of  Iron.  ..4707 

Shirt-Bosoms,  to  starch 498 

Shoemakers'  Black 3080,4146 

Shoemakers'  Measures 5981 

Shoes,  Varnish  for 2957,  2906 

Shoes,  White  Satin,  to  clean . .  455 
Shortness  of  Breath,  to  relieve .  5763 
Shortness  of  Breath,  toremedy5764 

Shrub,  Raspberry 905 

Shute's  Artificial  Honey 1572 

Sick-Chambers,  Precautions  on 

Entering 1705 

Sick-Chambers,  to  perfume 1709 

Sick-Chambers,  to  purify.  1695,  &c. 
Sick  Headache,  Remedies  for.  .5702 

Sick  Stomach,  Eemedy  for 5781 

Sifting 28,  4573 

Signal  Lights 2071,  2103 

Silicate  of  Potash 2816 

Silicate  of  Potassa  for  Strength- 
ening Skeletons 2235 

Silicate  of  Soda 2816 

Silicium,  to  electroplate  with.. 3767 
Silk,  Acid-stained,  to  restore 

the  Color  of 6334 

Silk,  Aniline  Dyes  for 2574,  &c. 

Silk,  Black,  to  clean 457 

Silk,  Black,  to  restore  Color  of    459 

Silk,  Colored,  to  clean 448 

Silk,  Family  Receipts  for  Dye- 
ing  304,  <fec. 

Silk  for  Trimmings,  to  stiffen.  470 

Silk  Lace,  White,  to  clean 472 

Silk  Pocket-handkerchiefs,  to 

wash 477 

Silk,  Receipts  for  Dyeing.. 233,  <Scc. 

Silk,  Solvent  for 1937 

Silk  Stockings,  White,  to  wash. 467 

Silk,  to  bleach 1716,  1719 

Silk,  to  bleach,  by  Sulphuration  1717 

Silk,  to  clean 437,  460,  6342 

Silk,  to  clean,  with  Old  Kid- 
gloves  456 

Silk,  to  distinguish,  in  Mixed 

Fabrics 299,  <tc. 

Silk,  to  electrogild  on 3738 

Silk,  to  electroplate  on 3738 

Silk,  to  electrotype  on 3738 

Silk,  to  gild  on 3599,  3738 

Silk,  to  prepare,  for  Dyeing 233 

Silk,  to  prepare,  for  Washing. .  474 

Silk,  to  preserve 6202 

Silk,  to  remove  Stains  and  Grease 

from 338,  341,  350,  &c.,  6343 

Silk,  to  silver 3599,  3627,  3738 

Silk,  to  wash 475,  6378 

Siller's   Method    of   Clarifying 

Honey 1570 

Silver 3205 


Silver  Alloy,  to  recover,  from 

Amalgam 3554 

Silver,  Alloys  of 3404,  <kc. 

Silver  Amalgam 3535 

Silver  and  Potassium,  Cyanide 

of 3698 

Silver,  Assay  of 3206,  &c. 

Silver  Assay,  Solution  for 3208 

Silver  Assay,  Weights  used  for  5949 
Silver  Bath  for  Photography.. 3150 

Silver,  Chloride  of 3214, 3216 

Silver,  Chloride  of,  to  reduce 

Metallic  Silver  from 4079 

Silver  Coins,  to  clean 3239 

Silver,  Cyanide  of 3697 

Silver  Dust 3217,  3535 

Silver  Enamel,  Black 2398 

Silver,  French 3428 

Silver,  French  Coin 3408 

Silver,  Fulminating 2133 

Silver,  German,  see  GERMAN  SIL- 
VER. 

Silver,  Hard 3407 

Silver  Ink 2492 

Silver  Lace,  to  clean 414 

Silver  Leaf,  to  pulverize 2517 

Silver,  Liquid 2519 

Silver  Lustre  for  Pottery 2418 

Silver,  Mosaic 6361 

Silver,  Nitrate  of 4077,  4080 

Silver,  Oxide  of 4078 

Silver,  Permanent  Black  Writ- 
ing on 2525 

Silver,  Polished,  to  frost 3218 

Silver,  Powder  for  Burnishing. 3223 
Silver,  Powder  for  cleaning. . .  .3229 

Silver,  Pure,  to  obtain 3212,  3216 

Silver  Rain  for  Rockets 2057 

Silver,  Solder  for 3493,  <fec. 

Silver  Solution 3537 

Silver  Solution  for  Electroplat- 
ing  3698,  &c. 

Silver  Solution   for   Photo- 
graphy   3133 

Silver  Solutions  for  Silvering.  .3604 

Silver,  Solvent  for 3213 

Silver  Stains,  to  remove,  from 

the  Hands 387,  3141 

Silver  Stains,  to  remove,  from 

Linen 385,  ic.,  6339  &c. 

Silver,  Sulphate  of 4081 

Silver,  Sulphuret  of. 4082 

Silver,  Test  for 3211 

Silver,  Test  for,  in  Solutions ...  4083 
Silver,  Test  for,  on  Plated-ware3714 

3722. 

Silver,  to  clean. 3220,  3230,  &c.,  6345 
Silver,  to  clean,  after  Soldering  3222 
Silver,  to  coat,  with  Plat  in  a. .  .3670 

Silver,  to  dissolve 3537 

Silver,  to  extract,  from  Lead.. 3210 

Silver,  to  gild 3577 

Silver,  to  keep,  from  Tarnish- 
ing  3224,  3232 

Silver,  to  oxidize 3219 

Silver,  to  purify 3214 

Silver,  to  recover,  from  Copper.  3716 

3721. 

Silver,  to  recover,  from  old  Pla- 
ted Ware 3720 

Silver,  to  recover,  from  Solu- 
tions  3158,  316fi,  3702 

Silver,  to  reduce 3214,  4079 

Silver,  to  remove  Stains  from.. 3236 
Silver,  to  remove  Chalky  ap- 
pearance of,  after  Plating  . .  .3709 
Silver,  to  separate,  from  Copper3245 

Silver,  to  test 438C 

Silver  Tree,  to  make  a 3221 

Silver  'White  Bronzing  Pow- 
der  3796 

Silvering  on  Bone 3623 

Silvering,  Cold 3611 

Silvering  on  Cotton 3627 

Silvering,  Dead,  for  Medals  . . .  3719 

Silvering  on  Flowers 3694 

Silvering  on  Glass  by  Solutions. 3615 

&c.,  3631. 

Silvering  on  Glass  with  Amal- 
gam   3613 

Silvering  on  Horn 3628 

Silvering  on  Iron.  ..3608,  3610,  3715 
Silvering  on  Ivory 2006 


598 


SIL — SNA 


Silvering  on  Leather 3629 

Silvering  on  Metals. 3599,  &c.,  3632 

3744. 
Silvering  on  Mirrors,  to  repair.  3624 

Silvering  on  Paper 3628 

Silvering  on  Porcelain 3631 

Silvering  on  Pottery 3630 

Silvering  on  Silk 3599,  3627 

Silvering  on  Steel 3715 

Silvering  on  Various  Substan- 
ces   3626 

Silvering  on  Wood 3612 

Silvering  on  "Wool 3627 

Simple  Cerate 4932,  4939 

Simple  Cream-syrup 1426 

Simple  Syrup  for  Cordials 1385 

Singer's  Cement 2170 

Singing  Birds,  Paste  for 6191 

Sirpt's  Disinfecting  Compound. 1702 

Sirop  Capillaire 1380 

Size,  Albuminous 1953 

Size  for  Engravings  to  be  Col- 
ored   2647 

Size  for  Gilding  Frames,  &c. .  .3562 

Size  for  Holland  Linen 6328 

Size  for  Painters 2757 

Size  for  Paper 1951 

Size  for  preparing  Wood  for 

Gilding 3559 

Size,  Glue 2815 

Size,  Ivory 2009 

Size,  Oil,  for  Gilding 3571,  3580 

Size,  Parchment 3559 

Size,  to  extract  the,  from  Paper  6403 

Size,  Water,  for  Gilding 3572 

Skeleton  Leaves, to  bleach  6169,6171 
Skeleton  Leaves, to  prepare  6168,6170 
Skeletons,  to  cement  and 

strengthen 2235 

Skeletons,  to  prepare 6182 

Skin,  Artificial,  for  Cuts 5501 

Skin,  Cosmetics  for  the.  ..1116,  &c. 
Skin,  Eruptions  on  the,  to  cure. 5490 
Skin,  Irritation  of  the,  to  allay.  5491 

Skin,  Lotions  for  the 1141,  &c. 

Skin,  Paints,  or  Rouges  for  the  1107 
Skin,  Spanish,  for  perfuming. . .  1355 
Skin,  to  remove  Tar,  &c.,  from 

the 6421 

Skin,  to  remove  Tattoo  Marks 

from  the 5883 

Skin,  Vanilla  Powder  for  the.  .1105 
Skin,  VioletPowderforthe  1100,1106 

Skins,  Fur,  to  tan 645 

Skins,  Muskrat,  to  tan 648 

Skins,  Rabbit,  to  cure 649 

Skins,  Sheep, to  prepare.for  Mats  647 

Skins,  Sheep,  to  tan. 646 

Skins,  Skunk,  to  deodorize 660 

Skunk-Cabbage,  Tincture  of. .  .4498 

Skunk  Skins,  to  deodorize 660 

Sky-Blue  Dye  for  Cottons 131 

Sky -Blue  Dye  for  Silks 254 

Sky-Blue  Dye  for  Woolens 204 

Sky-Lights,  Leaky,  to  stop 6235 

Slag,  Furnace,  Cement  from... 2212 
Slate-Color  Dye  for  Family  Use  331 

Slate-Color  Dye  for  Silks 275 

Slate-Color  Dye  for  Woolens. . .  216 
Slate,  Imitation,  for  Black-boards 
6353. 

Slates,  to  test 4385 

Slaughter  Houses,  Disinfectants 

for 1694 

Slippery -Elm  Poultice 5020 

Slugs,  to  drive  away 1923 

Small-Pox,  to  prevent  Pitting  in  5759 
Small-Pox,  to  remove  Pitting  af- 
ter  5762 

Small-Pox,  Treatment  of 5758 

Small-Pox,  Xylol  for 6409 

Smalt,  to  remove,  from  Old  Signs  2782 

Smalts  for  Pigment 2687 

Smee's  Battery 3667 

Bmelling  Salts 1089,  &c. 

Smelling  Salts,  Inexhaustible  .1093 

Smith's  Itch  Ointment 5240 

Smith's  Lavender  Water 990 

Smoking  Fluid  for  Meat,  <fcc., .  1601 
Smoking  Meat,  &c.,  Directions 

for 1600 

Snails,  to  keep,  from  Garden- 
beds 1862 


SNA — SOD 

Snake  Bites,  Cure  for 5926 

Snakeroot,  Black,  Fluid  Extract 

of 4575,  4592 

Snakeroot,  Black,  Tincture  of.  4514 
Snakeroot,  Virginia,  Fluid  Ex- 
tract of 4576 

Snakeroot,  Virginia,   Tincture 

of 4525 

Snow  Cream  for  the  Complexion  1131 

Snuff,  Cephalic 5333 

Snuff,  Scents  for 1352 

Snuff,  to  scent 1353 

Snuffles,  Cure  for 5622 

Soap,  Almond 557,  592 

Soap,  Arsenical 1669,  &c. 

Soap,  Art  of  Making 518,  <fcc. 

Soap,  Bad,  to  improve 6308 

Soap  Balls 574,  &c. 

Soap  Bubbles,  to  prepare  Soap 

for 6193,  &c. 

Soap  by  the  Cold  Process.  .582,  &c. 
Soap,  Cadmium  Yellow  for  Col- 
oring   2638 

Soap,  Camphorated  Tincture  of  4503 

Soap,  Carbolic  Acid 581 

Soap,  Caution  in  using  Medica- 
ted    579 

Soap,  Chemical 546 

Soap,  Cinnamon 573 

Soap,  Cocoa-nut  Oil  . .  .542,  593,  594 

Soap,  Composite,  Patent 545 

Soap,  Domestic 549,  551 

Soap,  Essence  of 604 

Soap,  Fig 601 

Soap,  Filled 538 

Soap,  Floating 568 

Soap,  Frangipanni 562 

Soap,  Glycerine 570 

Soap  Grease,  to  preserve. 536,  6309 

Soap,  Honey 560 

Soap,  Honey,  Imitation 561 

Soap,  Labor-saving 616 

Soap  Liniment 4869,  5443,  6404 

Soap  Makers'  Lye 519,  588,  &c. 

Soap  Marble  for  Book-covers  .  3123 

Soap,  Mercurial 577 

Soap,  Metallic,  for  Waterproof- 
ing  1562 

Soap,  Mottled 576 

Soap,  Musk 571 

Soap,  Olive  Oil 605 

Soap,  Orange-flower 572 

Soap,  Ox-gall 552 

Soap,  Palm  Oil 543,  567 

Soap,  Poncine 565 

Soap  Poultice 5036 

Soap,  Resin 541 

Soap,  Rose 563 

Soap,  Rypophagon) 603 

Soap,  Sand 575 

Soap,  Shaving 602,  &.C. 

Soap,  Soft 521,  600,  &c, 

Soap,  Soft,  to  make,  Hard 615 

Soap,  Spermaceti 566 

Soap,  Sulphur 578 

Soap,  Tallow 539,  544,  547 

Soap,  Tallow  Resin 540 

Soap,  Toilet,  Various  Receipts 
553,  &c.,  595. 

Soap,  to  analyze 620 

Soap,  to  clarify  Fat  for 529 

Soap,  to  deodorize  Fat  for 530 

Soap,  to  marble 556 

Soap,  to  perfume,  &c 555 

Soap,  to  pulverize 619 

Soap,  to  refine,  for  the  Toilet. .  554 

Soap,  to  test 617,  &c. 

Soap  Tooth  Paste 1311 

Soap,  Transparent 569 

Soap,  Turpentine 613 

Soap,  Turpentine,  to  nse 614 

Soap,  Washing 598,  599 

Soap,  Whale-oil,  for  destroying 

Insects 580 

Soap,  White 591,  606 

Soap,  Windsor 558,  559 

Soda 3978 

Soda,  Acetate  of 4206 

Soda  and  Antimony,  Tartrate 

of 4129 

Soda,  Carbonates  of 4208 

Soda,  Caustic 102,  3979 

Soda,  Caustic,  to  test 584,  &c. 


SOD — SOL 

Soda,  Hydrate  of 3979 

Soda,  Hyposulphite  of 4211 

Soda  Lye,  Analysis  of 621,  &c. 

Soda  Lye,  Caustic,  Home-made 

548,  550. 
Soda  Lye,  Caustic,Tablesof623,630 

Soda  Lye,  Soapmakerg' 519 

Soda,  Liquor  of 4785 

Soda  Mint 5397 

Soda,  Phosphate  of 4210 

Soda  Poisons,  Antidotes  for... 5901 

Soda,  Potassio-tartrate  of 4213 

Soda,  Santonate  of 4649 

Soda,  Silicate  of 2816,  &c. 

Soda  Soluble  Glass 2818,  <fec. 

Soda,  Solution  of 4785 

Soda  Solutions,  Tables  of.. 627,  628 

Soda,  Sulphate  of 4207 

Soda,  Tests  for 3980 

Soda,  to  obtain 3979 

Soda,  Tungstate  of 4212 

Soda  Water,  Cream  Syrups  for  1425 
Soda  Water,  Syrups  for..  1384,  &c. 

Sodic  Hydrate 3979 

Sodium,  Bromide  of 4214 

Sodium,  Chloride  of 4215 

Sodium,  Fluid  Alloy  of. 3455 

Sodium,  Iodide  of 4216 

Sodium,  Nitro-prusside  of 4217 

Soft  Corns,  to  cure 5850 

Soft  Sealing-wax  for  Diplomas. 2327 

Soft  Soap 521,  600,  &c. 

Soft  Soap,  to  make,  Hard 615 

Soft  Solder 3479,  3500 

Soft  Soldering,  see  SOLDERING. 

Soil,  Composts  for  the 1821 

Soil,  Fertilizers  for  the  ...  1820,  &c. 

Solder,  Aluminum 3520,  3522 

Solder,  Brass 3507,  3512 

Solder,  Brass  for 3371 

Solder  Drops 3519 

Solder  for  Brass 3518 

Solder  for  Copper ,,3498;  3517 

Solder  for  Gold.... 3492 

Solder  for  Iron 3512,  3515,  &c. 

Solder  for  Lead 3506 

Solder  for  Pewter 3502 

Solder  for  Silver 3493,  3495,  &c. 

Solder  for  Steel 3511,  &c. 

Solder  for  Tin 3499 

Solder,  Fusible  in  Boiling  Water3504 

Solder,  Glaziers' 3503 

Solder,  Hard 3488,  3494,  3515 

Solder,  Plumbers' 3505 

Solder,  Soft 3479,  3500 

Solder,  Spelter 3488 

Solder,  Spelter,  Flux  for 3489 

Solder,  to  make 3491 

Soldering 3472,  &c. 

Soldering,  see  METAL  to  be  soldered. 

Soldering,  Fluids  for 3473,  &c. 

Soldering,  Fluxes  for  3471,  3476, 
&c.,  3480,  &c.,  3531. 

Soldering,  Hard 3488,  3490 

Soldering  Smooth  Surfaces 3487 

Soldering,  Soft 3479,  3486 

Soldering,  to  clean  Gold  after. 3200 
Soldering,  to  clean  Silver  after  3222 

Solferino  Ink 2497 

Solferino  Syrup 1424 

Solid  Measure,  see  CUBIC  Measure. 

Solidified  Glycerine 6298 

Soluble  Glass 2816,  &c. 

Soluble  Glass,  Double 2822 

Soluble  Glass  for  Stereo-chromic 

Painting. .' 2823 

Soluble  Glass,  Potash 2817 

Soluble  Glass,  Potash  and  Soda, 

to  distinguish 2820 

Soluble  Glass,  Soda 2818,  2819 

Solution 29 

Solutions  for  Anatomical  Pre- 
parations  1651,  &c. 

Solutions  for  cleaning  Brass. .  .3393 
Solutions  for  coloring  Gold  3197.  &o. 
Solutions  for  coloring  Metals.. 3188 

Solutions  for  Dyeing 121 

Solutions  for  Electroplating,  &c., 

3698,  &c.,  3726,  &c. 
Solutions  for  Photographic  Pa- 
per  3131,  3133 

Solutions  for  Photography  3151,3160 
3181,  &c. 


SOL — SPI 


SPI — STA 


599 


Solutions  for  preserving  "Wood  1680 
Solutions.  Medicinal  and  Chem- 
ical  4769,  &.C. 

Solutions,  Saturated,  Boiling 

Heat  of 7 

Solutions,  Simple,  see  SUBSTANCE 
to  be  dissolved. 

Solvent  for  India-rubber 2947 

Solvent  for  Gutta-percha 2947 

Solveut  for  Silk,  Paper,  &c.,...1937 

Solvent  for  Silver 3213 

Soot  Water  for  Rose-bushes. .  .1841 
Sore  Throat,  Remedies  for  5063, 5068 
Sore  Throat,  Syphilitic,  Gargle 

for 5609 

Sore  Throat,  Ulcerated,  to  treat 
5067,  5608. 

Sores,  Bed,  Lotion  for 5820 

Sores,  Bed,  to  relieve 5821 

Sores,  Bed,  Treatment  of 5503 

Sores,  Clay  Dressing  for 5511 

Sores,  Running,  see  ULCERS. 
Soubeiran's  Apparatus  for  Dis- 
tilling Perfumed  "Waters 1077 

Soubeiran's  Pomade 1283 

Soubeiran's  Veratrine Lotion.. 5406 

Sound,  Velocity  of 6124 

Soup  Herbs,  Essence  of 1763 

Soup  Herbs,  Extract  of 1044 

Soup  Tablets,  German 1633 

Sour  for  Dyeing,  to  make  a. . .  105 

Sour,  Santa  Cruz 926 

Sour  Wine,  to  remedy 751,  754 

Soy 1754 

Soyer's  Table  Mustard 1786 

Sozodont 1330 

Spackman's  Anti- dyspeptic  Pills 

5683. 

Spackman's  Cholera  Mixture.. 5667 
Spackman's  Copaiba  Mixture  .5735 

Spackman's  Lotion 4823 

Spackman's  Salve  for  Piles 4987 

Spackman's  Tonic  Mixture 5123 

Spackman's  Worm  Syrup 5644 

Spanish  Bitters 825 

Spanish  Chocolate 6277,  6278 

Spanish  Cure  for  Rheumatism. 5537 

Spanish  Dentifrice 1311 

Spanish  Fly,  see  CANTHARIDES. 

Spanish  Money 6091 

Spanish  Skin 1355 

Spanish  Weights  and  Measures  6092 
Spars,  to  find  the  Content  of. .  .6003 

Sparteinc 4020 

Spasm  of  the  Bladder,  to  relieve 
4521,  5741. 

Spasms,  Remedy  for 5576 

Spearmint,  Essence  of 4614 

Spearmint,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Specific  Gravity 47 

Specific  Gravity  of  Degrees  of 
Areometers,  &c.,  see  NAME 
of  Areometer. 

Specific  Gravity  of  Gases 49 

Specific  Gravity  of  Liquids 49 

Specific  Gravity  of  Percentages 

of  Alcohol 59 

Specific  Gravity  of  Powders. 50,  51 

Specific  Gravity  of  Solids 48,  50 

Specific  Gravity  of  Syrups,  Ta- 
ble of 1362 

Specific  Gravity,  to  convert  De- 
grees of  Baumd  into 66 

Specific  Gravity,  to  convert, 

into  Degrees  of  Baume' 67 

Specific  Gravitv,  to  find  the 

Weight  of  a  Body  from  its. .     52 

Spectroscopes,  Liquid 2364 

Specula,  Polishing  Powder  for. 6356 

Speculum  Metal 3348,  3444 

Spelter  Solder 3488 

Spencer's  Method  of  Silvering 

on  Wood 3612 

Sperm  Oil  for  Lubrication 1540 

Spermaceti  Cerate 4933 

Spermaceti,  Imitation 1524 

Spermaceti  Ointment 4940 

Spsrmaceti   Soap 566 

Spermaceti  Stains,  to  remove.  343 
Spermaceti,  to  detect,  in  Wax.  1582 
Sperm atorrhosa,  Cure  for  .5739,5746 
Spheres.  Surface  and  Contents  of  6002 
Spice  Mills,  to  clean 423 


Spiced  Vinegar  for  Pickles 1791 !  Stains,  Fruit,  to  remove. 360, 364, 369 

Spices,  Savory,  Essence  of 1764    Stains,  Grease,  to  remove,  from 

Spices,  Savory,  Tincture  of 1765 


Spider  Bites,  to  cure 5927 

Spiders,  Red,  to  protect  Plants 

from 1857 

Spigelia,  Fluid  Extract  of 4577 

Spike,  Oil  of,  Factitious 4873 

Spirit  Dyes  for  Cottons 141 

Spirit  Finings 703 

Spirit  of  Ammonia,  Aromatic.  1094 
Spirit  of  Camphor.  .4491,  4611,  4862 

Spirit  of  Ether,  Compound 4749 

Spirit  of  Juniper,  Compound  ..5151 

Spirit  of  Miudererus 5143 

Spirit  of  Sal  Volatile. 1096 

Spirit  ofSalt 365 

Spirit,  Proof 1436 

Spirit,  Scarlet 199 

Spirit  Stiffening  for  Hats 335 

Spirit  Varnishes 2903,  &c. 

Spirits,  Barwood 110 

Spirits,  Distilled  Aromatic 941 

Spirits  for  finishing  French  Pol- 
ish   3006 

Spirits,  Perfumed 940,  976,  998 

Spirits,  Plumb Ill,  112 

Spirits,  Red 108 

Spirits,  Tin,  for  Dyeing  ...107.  &c. 

Spirits,  Yellow 109 

Spirituous  Extracts 44 

Spitting  of  Blood 5563 

Splinters,  to  extract 5499 

Spondumene 4239 

Sponge,  to  bleach 1721 

Spongio-Piline 5039 

Spongy  Platinum 3336 

Spoons,  French  Alloy  for 3427 

Spoons,  White  Metal  for 3416 

Sportsman's  Beef 1617 

Sportsmen's  Water-proofing  for 

Boots 3071 

Spots,  to  remove,  see  STAINS. 
Spotted  Marbling  for  Books. .  .3124 

Sprains,  Liniment  for 4858,  4887 

Sprains,  Poultice  for. 5025 

Sprains,  Remedy  for 5494,  <fec. 

Sprains,  Treatment  of  . .  .5493,  5495 
Sprinkles  for  Books,  see  MARBLES. 

Spring  Beer,  to  brew 883 

Springs  for  Artificial  Teeth  . .  .3406 

Springs,  Spiral,  to  temper 3288 

Spruce  Beer ...884,  <tc. 

Spruce  Beer  Powders  . . .' 903 

Spruce,  Essence  of 1 888 

Square  Measure ' 5982 

Square  Measure  Expressed  in 

Square  Metres 5983 

Square  Metres,  sec  ARES. 

Square,  to  find  the  Area  of  a.  .5989 

Squibb's  Ammonio-pyrophos- 

phate  of  Iron 4737 

Squibb's  Compound  Tincture  of 

Opium 4531 

Squibb's  Liquor  of  Iodide  of 

Iron 4703 

Squill  and  Benzoin,  Tincture  of  4555 

Squill,  Fluid  Extract  of 4576 

Squill,  Fluid  Extract  of,   Com- 
pound   4593 

Squill,  Oxymelof. 4691 

Squill  Pills,  Compound 4924 

Squill  Root,  to  dry 1889 

Squill,  Syrup  of,  Compound  ...4652 

Squill,  Tincture  of 4564 

Squinting 5790 

Squire's  Chlorodyne 5203 

Squire's  Elixir 5228 

Stables,  Disinfectants  for 1694 

Stables,  to  ftrive  Flies  from 1923 

Staining-,  see  ARTICLE  to  be  stained. 
Staining,  Wood,  to  improve  the 

Color  of 2857 

Stains,  Spots, &c.,to  remove  337,&c. 
Stains,  all  Non-metallic,  to  re- 
move    372 

Stains,  Acid,  on  Silk,  to  restore 

the  Color 6334 

Stains,  Aniline,  to  remove 2566 

Stains,  Benzine,  to  remove 6344 

Stains,  Blood,  to  detect 6415 

Stains,  Blood,  to  remove 6341 

Stains  for  Wood 2842 


Paper 410 

Stains,  Grease,  to  remove,  from 

Silk 6343 

Stains,  Grease,  to  remove,  from 

Woolens 345 

Stains,  Hair-dye,  to  remove. 385, 387 

6339. 
Stains,  Indelible  Ink,  to  remove  129 

385,  6339. 

Stains,  Ink,  to  remove. 375,  379,  384 
Stains,  Ink,  to  remove,  from 

Books 412,  6393 

Stains,  Ink,  to  remove,  from 

Mahogany 389,  393 

Stains,  Ink,  to  remove,  from 

Silver 3236,  3238 

Stains,  Iodine,  to  remove 371 

Stains,  Iron,  to  remove,  from 

Cottons 127,  375,  &c. 

Stains,  Irpn-mould,to  remove.  ..375 
Stains,  Nitrate  of  Silver,  to  re- 
move  385,  387,  3141,6339 

Stains,  Oil,  to  remove,  from 

Boards 394,  401 

Stains,  Oil,  to  remove,  from  Cot- 
tons   126 

Stains,  Oil,  to  remove,  from 

Leather 359 

Stains,  Oil,  to  remove,  from  Mar- 
ble  394,  401 

Stains,  Oil,  to  remove,  from  Pa- 
per    359 

Stains,  Perspiration,  to  remove  505 
Stains,  Prepared  Ox-gall  for  re- 
moving    373 

Stains,  to  remove,  from  Black 

Crape 470 

Stains,  to  remove,  from  Black 

Dresses 470 

Stains,  to  remove,  from  Bomba- 
zine    470 

Stains,  to  remove,  from  Kid 

Gloves 438 

Stains,  to  remove,  from  Knives  6322 
Stains,  to  remove,  from  Silver. 3237 
Stains,  to  remove,  from  AVhite 

Marble 400,  403,  514,  &c. 

Stains,  Vegetable,  to  remove..  360 

Stains,  Varnish,  to  remove 339 

Stains,  Water,  to  remove,  from 

Engravings 6398,  6400 

Stains,  Wine,  to  remove  360,364,369 
Stains,  Yellow,  to  remove,  from 

Engravings 413 

Stair  Carpets,  to  clean 445 

Stair  Carpets,  to  keep,   from 

Wearing 6199 

Stairs,  Stone,  to  clean 428 

Standard  Government  Measures, 

Alloy  of  the 3434 

Standard  Weights  and  Measures, 
5934,  &c. 

Standert's  Red  Mixture 5213 

Stannates 4121 

Stannic  Acid 4121 

Starch  for  Colored  Articles  . . .  49d 
Starch  for  Linens  and  Cottons.  497 

Starch  Gum 4345 

Starch,  Gum-arabic 498 

Starch,  How  to  use 497 

Starch  Lustre 6329 

Starch,  Test  for 4381 

Starch,  to  clear 501 

Starch,  to  remove,  from  Flat 

Irons 6228 

Starch,  Waterproof 6310 

Stars  for  Rockets,  &c., 2058 

Startin's  Borax  and  Glycerine 

Lotion '. 5452 

Startin's  Glycerine  Lotion 4840,4842 

Stavesacre  Ointment 4956 

Steam  Boilers,  see  BOILERS. 

Stearine 4325 

Stearine  Stains,  to  remove 343 

Steel 3273 

Steel,  Alloys  of 3423 

Steel  and  Iron,  to  make  Edge- 
tools  of 3280 

Steel,  Blistered 3274 

Steel,  Brown  Tint  for 3262 

Steel,  Cast 3276 


600         S 

Steel,  Cement  to  join  Leather  to  2259 
Steel  Composition  for  Welding  3523 
Steel  Etching  Fluid  for.  .2963,  32) 

Steel!  Flux  for  Soldering 3477 

Steel,  Flux  for  Welding 3531 

Steel  Rods,  Weight  of 6145 

Steel  Scrapers,  to  make 6259 

Steel,  Shear 3275 

Steel,  Solder  for Soil 

Steel,  Solution  for  Gilding 35£ 

Steel,  to  anneal 32t 

Steel,  to  blue 3278 

§teel,  to  case-harden 3297,  &c. 
teel,  to  cement  Steel  to 2152 

Steel,  to  clean 3272 

Steel,  to  coat,  with  Copper 3636 

Steel,  to  convert  Iron  into 3274 

Steel,  to  distinguish  Iron  from. 3260 

Steel,  to  electro-plate  on 3711 

Steel,  to  gild 3582 

Steel,  to  keep,  from  Rusting  . .  .3306 

3764. 

Steel,  to  make,  Blue 3278,  3290 

Steel,  to  make,  from  Iron  Scraps 

3277. 
Steel,  to  make,  Straw-colored  .3285 

3290. 
Steel,  to  remove  Pin  Spots  from  6304 

Steel,  to  remove  Rust  from 3308 

Steel,  to  remove  Scale  from  . .  .3281 
Steel,  to  restore,  when  Burnt .  .3282 

Steel,  to  straighten 3295 

Steel,  to  temper 3285,  &c. 

Steel,  to  weld 3523 

Steer's  Opodeldoc 4869,  5443 

Stencil  Ink,  Black 6366 

Stephens'  Infusion  of  Cayenne 

Pepper  and  Salt 5312 

Stephens'  Patent  Blue  Ink 2481 

Stewart's  Syrup  of  Rhubarb.  -  .4640 
Still  for  Perfumed  Waters  1073,1077 

Stills  for  General  Purposes 13 

Sticks  for  Plants,  to  prevent, 

from  rotting 1874 

Sticky  Substances,  to  remove, 

.  from  Glass,  &c., 6422 

Sticky  Substances,  to   remove, 

from  the  Skin 6421 

Stiff  Neck,  Cure  of 5640 

Stillingia,  Fluid  Extract  of 4587 

Stillingia,  Syrup  of : . .  .4672 

Stillingia,  Syrup  of,  Compound  4673 

Stillingia,  Tincture  of 4508 

Stills,  Lute  for 2264 

Stimulating  Fomentation 5160 

Stimulating  Liniment 4888 

Stings  of  Insects,  &c.,  to  cure  .5927 
Stockings,  White  Silk,  to  wash  4G7 

Stokes'  Liniment 5323 

Stolba's  Method  of  Nickel-coat- 
ing   3659 

Stolba's  Method  of  Tinning 

Metal 3644 

Stolzel's  Brown  Stain  for  Wood  2854 
Stomach,  Acidity  of  the,  to  cor- 

I    rect 5685 

Stomach  Bitters 827 

Stomach  Pump,  Simple. 5917 

Stomach,  Sick,  Remedy  for 5781 

Stomachic  Elixir 5118 

Stone,  Artificial 2196,  2219 

Stone,  Blue,  to  make 120 

Stone,  Cement  for 2218, 2225 

Stone,  Cement  to  join  Iron  to.  .2211 

2215. 
Stone-Color  Dye  for  Cottons...  180 

Stone-Color  Dye  for  Silks 275 

Stone-Color  Dye  for  Woolens. .  215 

Stone,  Measurement  of 6000 

Stone,  Oil  of 5301 

Stone  Paper  or  Cloth 1934 

Stone,  Preservation  of 6300 

Stone  Stairs,  to  clean t 428 

Stone,  to  cement  Metal  to  2215,2222 

2231. 
Stone,  to  transfer  Engravings 

onto 6336 

Stone  Ware,  to  bronze 3827 

Stoppers,  Glass,  to  remove 6206 

Storax,  Essence  of 962 

Storax,  Oil  of 1238 

Storax  Pills 4925 

Storax  Pomade...,  ...12G2 


STO — SUL 

Storax,  Tincture  of. 1016 

Storm  Glass 6184 

Storm's  Specific 5436 

Stoughton's  Bitters 819 

Stout,  Bitter  Balls  for 870 

Stout,  to  brew 856 

Stoves,  Cement  to  fill  Cracks  in  2214 
Stoves,  to  keep,  from  Rusting  .6303 

Straining 17 

Stramonium,  Fluid  Extract  of. 4574 

Stramonium  Ointment 494G 

Stramonium,  Tincture  of.  4499,  4565 
Strass  for  Artificial  Gems  2352,2419 
Straw-Color  Dye  for  Cottons  157,184 

Straw-Color  Dye  for  Silks 268 

Straw-Goods,  to  bleach  ..1717,  1719 
1720. 

Straw-Goods,  to  clean 511 

Straw-Goods,  to  dye,  Black  ..  .6349 

Straw  Matting,  to  clean 418 

Strawberries,  to  can 1636 

Strawberry  Beds,  to  protect, 

from  Snails 1862 

Strawberry  Essence,  Artificial  1058 

Strawberry  Syrup 1374 

Strawberry  Syrup  for  Soda  Wa- 
ter   1398 

Strawberry  Syrup,  Imitation..  1402 

Strawberry  Vinegar 1780 

Strawberry  Wine 728 

Strengthening  Fomentation... 5158 

Strengthening  Plaster 5049 

Stronger  Alcohol,  Officinal 1439 

Strontia 3989 

Strop  for  Razors 6246 

Strops,  Razor.  Paste  for 6247 

Strychnine  or  Strychnia 4005 

Strychnine,  Antidotes  for 5912 

Strychnine,  Solution  of 5354 

Stucco 2199,  2201 

Stucco,  to  silver 3630 

Stuff,  Coarse,  for  Plastering..  .2197 

Stuff,  Fine,  for  Plastering 2198 

Stuff,  Gauge,  for  Mouldings  . .  .2200 

Styes,  Treatment  of 5791 

Styptics 5555,  &c. 

Styptic  Collodion 5559,  5562 

Styptic  Cotton 5560 

Styptic  Paper 5561 

Styptic  Solution  ...4816,  5430,  5558 
Styrax,  see  STORAX. 

Styrol 4315 

Sublimate,  Corrosive 4139 

Sublimate,  Corrosive,  Antidotes 

for 5902,  5903 

Sublimate,  Corrosive,  Antisep- 
tic Solution  of 1664 

Sublimation 30 

Submarine  Varnish 2955 

Substantive  Colors 93 

Succinic  Acid 4306 

Sndorifics 5134,  &c. 

Suet,  Mutton 524 

Suet,  to  keep 6288 

Suet,  to  purify 1253 

Sugar,  Adulteration  of 4380 

Sugar,  Clarification  of 6285 

Sugar,  Clarification  of,  for  Sy- 
rups   1357 

Sugar,  Degrees  of  Boiling,   for 

Candies 1368 

Sugar  in  Urine,  Test  for.  4396,  4397 
Sugar  of  Lead,  Antidotes  for  .  5908 
Sugar  of  Lead,  see  ACETATE  OF 

LKAD. 

Sugar,  Proportions  of,  for  Sy- 
rups   1360 

Sugar  Resin 4313 

Sugar,  Test  for,  in  Aniline 2561 

Sugar,  to  make  Vinegar  from.  1747 
Sugar,  to  remove,  from  Aniline  2.562 

Sulphates 3854 

Sulphate  of  Alumina 4239 

Sulphate  of  Ammonia 4223 

Sulphate  of  Baryta 2697,  4231 

Sulphate  of  Copper 4096 

Sulphate  of  Copper,  Antidotes 

I      for 5904 

Sulphate  of  Copper  Electrotyp- 

ing  Solution 3661 

Sulphate  of  Indigo 98,  4791 

Sulphate  01  Iron 4146 

Sulphate  of  Iron,  Solution  of  .  .4168 


SUL — SUN 

Sulphate  of  Lithia 4239 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia 424 1 

Sulphate  of  Morphia,  Solution  of 
4771,  4781. 

Sulphate  of  Nickel 4177 

Sulphate  of  Quinine 4265 

Sulphate  of  Quinine  Pills 4904 

Sulphate  of  Quinine,  Tests  for. 4266 
Sulphate  of  Quinine, to  dissolve  5578 

Sulphate  of  Silver 4081 

Sulphate  of  Soda ; 4207 

Sulphate  of  Zinc 4114 

Sulphate  of  Zinc,  Antidote  for  5907 
Sulphides,  see  SULFHURETS. 

Sulphites 3864 

Sulphite  of  Copper 4093 

Sulphite  of  Soda  Pills 4927 

Sulpho-Cyanido  of  Ammonium  4226 
Sulpho-Cyanide  of  Potassium..  4205 

Sulphur 4349 

Sulphur,  Amorphous  or  Brown  4350 

Sulphur,  Balsam  of 5114 

Sulphur  Bath 5480 

Sulphur,  Black 4355 

Sulphur,  Flowers  of 4354 

Sulphur  Ointment 4998 

Sulphur  Pills 4926 

Sulphur,  Precipitated 4351 

Sulphur,  Precipitated,  to  purify  4352 

Sulphur,  Roll 4353 

Sulphur  Soap 578 

Sulphur,  Sublimed 4354 

Sulphur,  to  detect,  in  Coal  Gas  4399 

Sulphur  Vivum 4355 

Sulphur  Wash 5274 

Sulphuration 1717 

Sulphurets 4349 

Sulphuret  of  Ammonia 1203 

Sulphuret  of  Ammonium 4228 

Sulphuret  of  Antimony. . .  4132,  4133 

Sulphuret  of  Arsenic 4356 

Sulphuret  of  Barium 4237 

Sulphuret  of  Carbon 43C9,  4311 

Sulphuret  of  Iron  . .  .4053,  4147,  &c. 

Sulphuret  of  Magnesia 4242 

Sulphuret  of  Mercury 2682 

Snlphurct  of  Potassium 4204 

Sulphuret  of  Silver 4082 

Sulphuretted  Hydrogen.  .3870,  4052 
Sulphuretted  Hydrogen,  Solu- 
tion of 4793 

Sulphuretted  Hydrogen,  Tests 

for 4054 

Sulphuretted  Hydrogen,  to  ob- 
tain  4053 

Sulphuretted  Hydrosulphate  of 

Ammonia 5353 

Sulphuretted  Lotion 4834 

Sulphuretted  Water 4462 

Sulphuric  Acid 3654 

Sulphuric  Acid,  Alcoholized..  .4741 
Sulphuric  Acid,  Anhydrous  ..  .3856 

Sulphuric  Acid,  Aromatic 4740 

Sulphuric  Acid,  Cement  to  re- 
sist   6311 

Sulphuric  Acid,  Commercial..  .3855 
Sulphuric  Acid,  Concentrated. 3858 

Sulphuric  Acid,  Dilute 3857 

Sulphuric  Acid,  Nordhnusen's 

Fuming 3858 

Sulphuric  Acid,  Table  of  Per- 
centages of 3859 

Sulphuric  Acid,  Test  for  Nitric 

Acid  in 3861 

Sulphuric  Acid,  to  decolorize.. 3863 

Sulphuric  Acid,  to  purify 3860 

Sulphuric  Acid,  to  remove  Ni- 
tric Acid  from 3862 

Sulphurous  Acid..  .1718,  3864,  4066 
Sulphurous  Acid,  to  obtain...  3865 
Sulphurous  Acid,  pure  Gaseous  3866 

3868. 

Sulphurous  Acid,  pure  Liquid  .3869 
Sulphurous  Acid,  Solution  of.. 3867 

Sultana  Cold-crenm 1127 

Sumach,  Fluid  Extract  of 4600 

Sumach,  Remedy  for  Poisoning 

by 5930 

Summer  Complaint,  Rem  edy  for  5659 
Summer  Suits,  Ladies',  to  wash  6412 
Sunburns,  Borax  Lotion  for  . . .  ]]57 

Sunstroke 5782 

Sunstroke,  Treatment  of 5783 


StTP — SYR 


TAB — TAR 


6O1 


Superficial   Measure,  see  SQUARE 
MEASURE. 

Surface  Bronzing 3792,  &c. 

Swaim's  Vermifuge 5246 

Swansdown,  to  clean 657 

Sweating  Drops 5142 

Sweating  in  Wines 757 

Sweating,  Infusion  to  produce. 5138 
Sweating,  Powder  to  produce  .5145 

Swedish  Essence  of  Life 5337 

Swedish  Money 6090 

Swedish  Weights  and  Measures  6007 

Sweet  Cider 834 

Sweet  Cider,  Imitation 849 

Sweet  Spirit  of  Nitre 4289 

Swiss  Money 6101 

Swiss  Weights  and  Measures.. 6102 

Sydenham's  Laudanum 5370 

Sympathetic  Inks  for  Secret 

Writing 2533,  &c. 

Sympathetic  Paper  for  Secret 

Writing 1977,  &c. 

Syphilitic  Rheumatism,  Cure 

for 5537 

Syphilitic  Sore-throat  Gargle.  .5609 

Syphon  Filter 17,  3840 

Syphon  for  Decantation 10 

Syringes,  Glass,  Cement  for... 2166 

Syrup,  Alterative 5163 

Syrup,  Ambrosia 1422 

Syrup,  Apple 1412 

Syrup,  Arrack  Punch 1377 

Syrup,  Banana 1413 

Syrup,  Blackberry 1404 

Syrup,  Cherry 1381 

Syrup,  Chocolate 1409 

Syrup,  Cinnamon 1379 

Syrup,  Claret 1423 

Syrup,  Coffee 1378,  1418 

Syrup,  Coffee  Cream 1433 

Syrup,  Cough 5465,  5603 

Syrup,  Cream 1425,  &c. 

Syrup,  Cream,  Imitation 1430 

Syrup  for  Champagne  Wines  .  715 

Syrup  for  Hoarseness 5249 

Syrup  for  Whooping  Cough... 5633 

Syrup,  Ginger 1392,  1393 

Syrup,  Grape 1414 

Syrup,  Gum 1371 

Syrup,  Hive 5273 

Syrup,  Hock 1423 

Syrup,  Lemon 1375,  1387,  1388 

Syrup,  Maple 1408 

Syrup,  Nectar 1419,  1420 

Syrup,  Nectar  Cream 1434 

Syrup,  Nursing 5308 

Syrup  of  Assafcetida,    Com- 
pound   4686 

Syrup  of  Balsam  of  Copaiba. .  .4667 
Syrup  of  Black  Cohosh,  Com- 
pound   4654 

Syrup  of  Blackberry,Aromatic4685 

Syrup  of  Blood  Root 5602,  5614 

Syrup  of  Capsicum 4670 

Syrup  of  Chamomile 4678 

Syrup  of  Chloride  of  Iron  4660,4665 
Syrup  of  Chloride  of  Iron  and 

Bark 4662 

Syrup  of  Chloroform,   Com- 
pound   4659 

Syrup  of  Citric  Acid 4680 

Syrup  of  Ether 4653 

Syrup  ofGuaiac 4676 

Syrup  of  Hemlock,  Compound  4G81 

Syrup  of  Horseradish 4688 

Syrup  of  Horseradish,  lodin- 

ized 4689 

Syrup  of  Hydrate  of  Chloral. .  .4679 
Syrup  of  Hypophosphites,  Com- 
pound  4G41,  4643,  4G4G,  &c. 

Syrup  of  Iodide  of  Potassium 

and  Iron 4663 

Syrup  of  Ipecacuanha 4651 

Syrup  of  Ipecacuanha,  Com- 
pound   4682 

Syrup  of  Lactato  of  Iron 4CG1 

Syrup  of  Lactncarium 4666 

Syrup  of  Milk 4687 

Syrup  of  Orange  Peel 1382 

Syrup  of  Pepsine 4684 

Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron  . .  .4632 
Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron, 
Compound 4644 


Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron  and 

Lime 4635 

Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron  and 

Manganese 4634 

Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron  and 

Quinine 4628 

Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron  and 

Strychnine 4630 

Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Iron, 

Quinine  and  Strychnine  4629,4648 
Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Lime. .  4636 
Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Manga- 
nese   4633 

Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Quinine  4627 
Syrup  of  Phosphate  of  Zinc  ...4626 
Syrup  of  Queen's  Root  (Stillin- 

gia) 4672 

Syrup  of  Queen's  Root,  Com- 
pound   4673 

,  Syrup  of  Rhubarb  .4638,  4640,  4674 

|  Syrup  of  Rhubarb  and  Senna. 4639 

Syrup  of  Santonate  of  Soda. .  .4650 

Syrup  of  Santonin 4668 

Syrup  of  Sarsaparilla,    Com- 
pound  4655,  4656 

Syrup  of  Seneka 4658 

Syrup  of  Sesquichloridc  of  Iron  4665 
Syrup  of  Squills,  Compound... 4652 

Syrup  of  Tannato  of  Iron 4664 

Syrup  ofTar 4669 

Syrup  ofTolu 4677 

Syrup  of  Valerianate  of  Ammo- 
nia   4671 

Syrup  of  Yellow  Dock 4083 

Syrup,  Orange 1410 

Syrup,  Orange  Flower 1417 

Syrup,  Orgeat 1376,  1415 

Syrup,  Orgeat,  Imitation 1416 

Syrup,  Osborne's 4657 

Syrup,  Pear 1411 

Syrup,  Pineapple 1405 

Syrup,  Pineapple,  Imitation...  1406 

Syrup,  Plain 1370 

Syrup,  Pulmonary 5600 

Syrup,  Punch 1383 

Syrup,  Raspberry 1372,  1403 

Syrup,  Raspberry,  Imitation  ..1373 
1403. 

Syrup,  Sarsaparilla 1389,  &c. 

Syrup,  Sherbet 1421 

Syrup,  Simple 1370,1385,  1386 

Syrup,  Solferino 1424 

Syrup,  Strawberry..  1374,  1398,  &c. 
Syrup,  Strawberry,  Imitation  .1402 

Syrup,  Vanilla 1394,  1395 

Syrup,  Vanilla  Cream 1432 

Syrup,  Wild  Cherry 1396,  1397 

Syrup,  Wintergreen 1407 

Syrup,  Worm 5644 

Syrups,  Clarification  of  Sugar 

for 1357 

Syrups,  Cream,  for  Soda  Water  1425 

Syrups,  Degrees  of  Boiling 1368 

Syrups,  Filters  for 1358 

Syrups  for  Cordials  and  Liquorsl369 
Syrups  for'Soda  Water...  1384,  &c. 
Syrups,  Heat  required  for  Ma- 
king  1361 

Syrups,  Medicated 4625,  &c. 

Syrups,  Preparation  of  ...  1356,  &o. 
Syrups,  Proportions  of  Sugar 

for 1360 

Syrups,  Table  of  Specific  Grav- 
ities of 1362 

Syrups,  to  bleach 1367 

Syrups,  to  determine  the  Densi- 
ty of 1363 

Syrups,  to  preserve 1364 

Syrups,  to  prevent,  from  Candy- 
ing   1365 

Syrups,  to  prevent,  from  Fer- 
menting   1366 

Table  Covers,  to  clean 452 

Table  for  Graduating  Bleaching 

Liquors 1728 

Table  for  Mixing  Oil-colors  . .  .2762 
Table  for  Reducing  the  Strength 

of  Alcohol ."...    60 

Table,  Gerlach's,  of  Soda  Solu- 
tions    627 

Table  Glass,  to  make 2345 

Table,  Lorme's,  of  Diluted  Lyes  622 


Table  Mustard 1784 

Table  of  Alloys  of  Copper 3348 

Table  of  Boiling  Heat  of  Li- 
quids   6,  7,  6133 

Tame  of  Capacity  of  Cisterns .  6012 
Table  of  Caustic  Potash  Lyes.  629 
Table  of  Caustic  Soda  Lyes ...  630 
Table  of  Chemical  Equivalents 

and  Symbols 6150,  6151 

Table  of  Cubical  Contents  6003.  &c. 
Table  of  Differences  of  Time.  6009 
Table  of  Decimal  Approxima- 
tions   6119 

Table  of  Equivalents  of  Acids.     81 
Table  of  Equivalents  of  Alka- 
lies       80 

Table  of  Melting  Heat  of  Lead 

and  Tin  Alloys 3459 

Table  of  Melting  Heat  of  Met- 
als   6133 

Table  of  Percentages  of  Acetic 

Acid 3897 

Table  of  Percentages  of  Alcohol  55 

56,  57,  59. 

Table  of  Percentages  of  Ether  4286 
Table  of  Percentages  of  Muri- 
atic Acid 3886 

Table  of  Percentages  of  Nitric 

Acid 3878 

Table  of  Percentages  of  Sulphu- 
ric Acid 3859 

Table  of  Properties  of  Metals .  3350 

6143. 

Table  of  Proportions   for  Ma- 
king Glass 2352 

Table  of  Specific  Gravities  of 
Various  Areometrio  Degrees.. 57 
&c.,  6155,  <fcc. 
Table  of  Specific  Gravities  of 

Syrups 1362 

Table  of  Spherical  Contents  ..6001 
Table  of  Weight  and  Hardness 

of  Gems,  &c., 6136 

Table  of  Weight  of  Rocks, 

Minerals,  &c., 6134,6135 

Tables  of  Decimal  Equivalents  5939 

5979,  5985. 

Tables  of  Weights  and  Mea- 
sures   5934,  &c. 

Table,  SchifFs,ofSodaSolutions628 

Tables,  Statistical 6119,  <fcc. 

Tablet  Soap,  Paris .595 

Taffee,  Everton 6283 

Taffee,  Molasses 6282 

Taffee,  to  make 6281 

Talmi  Gold 3432 

Tallow 523 

Tallow  Candles,  to  harden 637 

Tallow  Candles,  to  make.. 631,  <feo. 

Tallow  for  Candles 635 

Tallow  Resin  Soap 540 

Tallow  Soap,  to  make 539,  547 

Tallow,  to  bleach 1523 

Tallow,  to  grain 532 

Tallow,  to  harden 638,  &c.,  1523 

Tallow,  to  harden  and  whiten.  639 

1523. 
Tallow,  to  keep,  from  turning 

Rancid 535 

Tallow,  to  purify 533 

Tamara,  Italian 1761 

Tanks,  to  render,  Watertight  .2195 

Tannates 3911 

Tannate  of  Iron 4170 

Tannate  of  Iron,  Syrup  of 4664 

Tannate  of  Manganese,    Oint- 
ment of 4994 

Tannic  Acid 3911 

Tannic  Acid,  to  distinguish 

Gallic  Acid  from 3908 

Tannic  Acid,  to  obtain 3912 

Tannin 3911 

Tannin,  Gallic  Acid  from 3907 

Tannin  Ointment 4986 

Tanning,  Receipts  for 642,  &c. 

Tansy  Water,  to  distill. .  .1071, 1073 

Tape  Worm 5649 

Tape  Worm,  to  expel 5432 

Tape  Worm,  to  treat 5650 

Tapestry,  to  clean 449 

Tapioca  Photographic  Paper.  .3157 
Tar,  Inhalation  of,  for  Consump- 
tion   5613 


602      TAR — THK 

Tar  Lotion 4845 

•Tar  Ointment 4960 

Tar  Ointment,  Compound. 5288 

Tar  Pomade 1281 

Tar,  Syrup  of 4669 

Tar,  Tincture  of 4552 

Tar,  to  remove,  from  Glass 6422 

Tar,  to  remove,  from  the  Skin. 6421 

Tar  Water 4764 

Taraxacum,  Elixir  of 4729,  4736 

Taraxacum,  see  DANDELION. 

Tarragon  Mustard 1787 

Tarragon  Vinegar 1771 

Tartar  Emetic 4129 

Tartar  Emetic,  Antidotes  for. 5900 

Tartar  Emetic  Ointment 4995 

Tartar,  Red 4197 

Tartar,  White 4197 

TartaricAcid 3929 

Tartario  Acid,  to  detect,  in  Cit- 
ric Acid 3931 

Tartaric  Acid,  to  obtain 3930 

Tartrates 3929 

Tartrate  of  Potassa 4196,  4197 

Tartrate  of  Potassa  and  Soda. 4213 
Tartrate  of  Soda  and  Antimony4129 
Tartrate  of  Soda,  Solution  of.  .4807 

Tattoo  Marks,  to  remove 5883 

Taylor's  Cream  Syrup. 1427 

Taylor's  Remedy  for  Deafness. 5809 

Tea,  Balm 5135 

Tea,  Blessed  Thistle 5140 

Tea,  Boneset 5139 

Tea,  Flaxseed 5589 

Tea,  German,  for  the  Chest  . .  .5425 

Tea,  Hamburg 5418 

Tea,  to  flavor C302 

Tea,  to  increase  the  Strength  of  6301 

Tea,  to  test 4374 

Teeth  and  Gums,  to  preserve 

the 5866 

Teeth,  Amalgams  for  stopping 3549 
Teeth,  Artificial,  Pivots  for... 3405 
Teeth,  Artificial,  Springs  for.. 3406 
Teeth,  Decayed,  to  deodorize.  .5865 
Teeth,  Electuaries  for  the  1305,  &c. 

Teeth,  Pastes  for  the 1305,  &c. 

Teeth,  Powders  for  Cleaning 

the 1288,  &c. 

Teeth,  to  cleanse  the  Spaces  be- 
tween the 1334 

Teeth,  to  fill  or  plug 5882 

Teeth,  to  remove  the  Yellow 

Color  from  the 1296 

Teeth,  "Washes  forthe!323,&c.,1335 

Teft's  Dental  Anaesthetic 5433 

Tempering  Steel  and  Tools  3285,  &c. 

Tenacity  of  Metals 3356,  6143 

Terpine 4312 

Tersulphates,  see  SULPHATES. 
Tersulphides  or  Tersulphurets,  see 

S0LPHURET8. 

Test  Papers 4408,  &c. 

Test  Paper,  Alkanet 4427 

Test  Paper,  Brazil- Wood 4409 

Test  Paper,  Buckthorn 4410 

Test  Paper,  Cabbage 4426 

Test  Paper,  Cherry-juice 4411 

Test  Paper,  Dahlia 4412 

Test  Paper,  Hollyhock  Flower  4428 

Test  Paper,  Indigo 4413 

Test  Paper,  Iodide  of  Potassium 

4414. 
Test  Paper,  Iodine  and  Starch  4415 

Test  Paper,  Lead 4416 

Test  Paper,  Litmus,  Blue 4417 

Test  Paper,  Litmus,  Eed 4418 

Test  Paper,  Mallow 4419 

Test  Paper,  Manganese 4420 

Test  Paper,  Rhubarb 4421 

Test  Paper,  Rose 4422 

Test  Paper,  Starch 4423 

Test  Paper,  Starch  and  Iodine  4415 
Test  Paper,  Sulphate  of  Iron  ..4424 

Test  Paper,  Turmeric 4425 

•  Testing,  see  AHTICLE  to  be  tested. 
Tests  or  Reagents  ..4372,  &c.,  4408 

Tetter  Ointment 5241 

Tetter,  Remedy  for 5485,  &c. 

Thebaine 4001 

Thee,  Brust 5425 

Theine 4010 

Theobromine 4011 


THE — TIN 

Thermometers 85,  &c. 

Thibault's  Balsam 5305 

Thirlault's  Glycero-pomade  of 

Iodide  of  Potassium 5373 

Thistles  on  Gravel  Walks,  to  de- 
stroy   1870 

Thomas'  Cathartic  Pills 5316 

Thomas'  Colocynth  and  Man- 
drake Pills 5190 

Thompson's  Bitters 5129 

Thompson's  Composition  Pow- 
der  5178 

Thompson's  Hot  Drops 5179 

Thompson's  Number  Six 5177 

Thorn  Apple,  Fluid  Extract  of  4574 
Thorn  Apple,  Tincture  of  4499,4565 
Thousand  Flowers,  Balm  of . .  .1327 

Thread  Lace,  to  clean 473 

Thread  Marble  for  Book  Edges  3114 
Thrips  on  Cucumber  Plants,  to 

kill 1858 

Thwaite's  Antiseptic  Fluid 1659 

Tick,  Bed,  to  clean 468 

Timber,  Feet  of  Inch  Board  in  6006 

Timber,  Round,  Content  of 6003 

Timber,  Statistics  of 6138 

Timber,  to  protect,  from  Dry 

Rot 1679 

Time.  Ancient  Jewish  Division 

of 6070 

Time,  Measure  of 6007 

Time,  Nautical  Division  of 6011 

Time,  Roman  Division  of 6064 

Time,  Table  of  Differences  of -6009 

Tin 3314 

Tin,  Acid  Preparations  of 107 

Tin,  Alloys  of 3421,  3426 

Tin,  Alloys  of,  for  Dentists 3435 

Tin,  Alloys  of,  Melting  Heat  of  3459 
Tin  Amalgam  3542,  3544,  3549,  3552 
Tin  Castings,  Bronzing  Liquid 

for 3790 

Tin,  Chlorides  of 4123 

Tin,  Crystallized 3320 

Tin,  Feathered 107,  3319 

Tin,  Flux  for  Soldering.. 3476,  3482 

Tin,  Frosted. 3321 

Tin,  Grain 3316 

Tin  in  Tears 3316 

Tin,  Ink  for  Writing  on 6365 

Tin,  Lacquer  for 3057 

Tin,  Muriates  of 4123 

Tin,  Nitrate  of 4121 

Tin,  Oxides  of 4119,  &c. 

Tin  Pipes,  Flux  for  Soldering. 3531 

Tin,  Powdered 3317 

Tin  Putty 4122 

Tin,  Solder  for 3479,  3499 

Tin  Spirits  for  Dyeing 107 

Tin,  Tests  for  Pure 3315 

Tin,  Tests  for  the  Salts  of 4125 

Tin,  to  coat  Copper  and  Brass 

with 3644,  <fcc. 

Tin,  to  coat  Iron  with 3638,  &c. 

Tin,  to  electro-gild  on 3731 

Tin,  to  electro-plate  with 3750 

Tin,  to  separate,  from  Copper  .3244 

Tin  Tree,  to  make  a 3322 

Tin  Vessels,  to  clean 3252 

Tincture,  Acid  Aromatic 4731 

Tincture,  Antacrid 5444 

Tincture,  Antispasmodic 5270 

Tincture,  Cholera 5674 

Tincture,  Diarrhoea 5654 

Tincture,  Dover's 4543 

Tincture,  Febrifuge 5195 

Tincture,  Golden 5251 

Tincture,  Nervous 5574 

Tincture  of  Aconite  Leaves  . .  .4481 

Tincture  of  Aconite  Root 4482 

Tincture  of  Aloes 4537 

Tincture  of  Aloes  and  Myrrh.  .4538 

Tincture  of  Ambergris 963,  1024 

Tincture  of  Arnica 4483 

Tincture  of  Arnica  Flowers. .  .4509 

Tincture  of  Assafcetida 4480 

Tincture  of  Balm  of  Gilead 4535 

Tincture  of  Balsam  of  Peru 1020 

TinctuH?  of  Balsam  of  Tolu 1022 

Tincture  of  Belladonna 4484 

Tincture  of  Benzoin 1019 

Tincture  of  Benzoin, Compound  4567 
Tincture  of  Black  Cohosh 4514 


TIN — TIN 

Tincture  of  Black  Pepper,  Com- 
pound   4495 

Tincture  of  Bloodroot 4524 

Tincture  of  Blue  Flag 4518 

Tincture  of  Camphor 4611 

Tincture  of  Cantharides 4539 

Tincture  of  Capsicum 4486 

Tincture  of  Cardamom. . .  1023,  4540 
Tincture  of  Cardamom,    Com- 
pound   4568 

Tincture  of  Castor 4541 

Tincture  of  Catechu 4547 

Tincture  of  Chiretta 4516 

Tincture  of  Chloride  of  Iron .  .  4504 
Tincture  of  Cimicifnga  Racemo- 

sa 4514 

Tincture  of  Cinchona 4487 

Tincture  of  Cinchona,  Compound 

4488. 
Tincture  of  Cinchona,  Sweet .  .4544 

Tincture  of  Cinnamon 4548 

Tincture  of  Colchicum 4549 

Tincture  of  Colocynth 4554 

Tincture  of  Columbo 4550 

Tincture  of  Conium 4489 

Tincture  of  Coriander 1014 

Tincture  of  Cubebs 4551 

Tincture  of  Dewberry,    Com- 
pound   4497 

Tincture  of  Digitalis 4490 

Tincture  of  Dog- wood 4553 

Tincture  of  Ergot 4517 

Tincture  of  Gelseminum 4493 

Tincture  of  Gentian, Compound4569 

Tincture  of  Ginger 4558 

Tincture  of  Grain  of  Paradise.  1021 

Tincture  of  Guaiac 4505,  5441 

Tincture  of  Hellebore,  American 

4496,  4515. 
Tincture  of  Hellebore,  Black  ..4506 

Tincture  of  Hemlock 4489 

Tincture  of  Hemp 4485 

Tincture  of  Henbane ,  .4511 

Tincture  of  Hops 4510 

Tincture  of  Iodine 4491 

Tincture  of  Iodine,  Compound.  4570 

Tincture  of  Jalap 4559 

Tincture  of  Kino 4512,  4556 

Tincture  of  Kino,  Compound  ..4502 

4557. 
Tincture  of  Leopard's  Bane  . .  .4509 

Tincture  of  Lobelia 4513 

Tincture  of  Lupulin 4519 

Tincture  of  Mandrake 4507 

Tincture  of  Monesia 4500 

Tincture  of  Musk 1025 

Tincture  of  Myrrh 4560 

Tincture  of  Nut  Gall. 4561 

Tincture  of  Nutmeg 1015 

Tincture  of  Nux  Vomica 4520 

Tincture  of  Opium 4529 

Tincture  of  Opium,  Ammonia- 
ted  4530 

Tincture  of  Opium,  Camphora- 
ted   4527 

Tincture  of  Opium,  Compound. 4531 
Tincture  of  Pellitory,  Compound 

4532. 
Tincture  of  Pellitory,  Ethereo- 

alcoholic 4533 

Tincture  of  Podophyllin 4507 

Tincture  of  Prickly -ash  Berries4536 

Tincture  of  Quassia. 4562 

Tincture  of  Queen's  Root 4508 

Tincture  of  Rhatany 4563 

Tincture  of  Rhubarb 4522 

Tincture  of  Rhubarb,  Alkaline  5356 
Tincture  of  Rhubarb  and  Senna  4523 
Tincture  of  Rhubarb,  Aqueous  4546 
Tiucture  of  Rhubarb,  Sweet. .  .-4545 
Tincture  of  St.  John's  Wort. .  .4501 

Tincture  of  Sanguinaria 4524 

Tincture  of  Serpentaria 4525 

Tincture  of  Skunk-cabbage  . .  .4498 
Tincture  of  Snake-root,  Black  .4514 
Tincture  of  Snake-root,  Virginia 

4525. 
Tincture  of  Soap,Camphorated4503 

Tincture  of  Spices 1765 

Tincture  of  Squill 4564 

Tincture  of  Squill  and  Benzoin  4555 

Tincture  of  Stillingia 4508 

Tincture  of  Storax  or  Styrax  .  .1016 


TIN — TEA 


TRA — TUR 


TTJR — VAR 


603 


Tinctnre  of  Stramonium  .4499,  4565 

Tincture  of  Tar 4552 

Tincture  of  Tobacco 4521 

Tincture  of  Tola 4566 

Tincture  of  Turkey  Corn 4492 

Tincture  of  Valerian 4526,  4542 

Tincture  of  Vanilla 1018 

Tincture  of  Veratrum  Viride..4496 

4515. 
Tincture  of  Yellow  Jasmine. .  .4493 

Tincture,  Tonic 5126 

Tincture,  Universal 4494 

Tinctures 35 

Tinctures,  Ammoniated 35 

Tinctures  by  Digestion 40 

Tinctures  by  Infusion 36 

Tinctures  by  Maceration 39 

Tinctures  by  Percolation    or 

Displacement 41 

Tinctures,  Filter  for 17 

Tinctures,  Medicinal 4479,  &c. 

Tinctures,  Proportions  oflngre- 

dients  for 42 

Tinctures,  to  prepare 35 

Tingry's  Essence  Varnish 2915 

Tinning,  Cold 3643 

Tinning,  Directions  for... 3638,  &c. 

Tinning,  Metal  for 3453 

Tissue,  Electric 6330 

Tobacco,  Empyreumatic  Oil  of  1465 

Tobacco,  Oil  of 4752 

Tobacco  Ointment.. 4961,  5290,  &c. 

Tobacco,  Tincture  of 4521 

Tobacco,  to  fumigate  Plants 

with 1852 

Tobacco,  to  scent 1350 

Toddy 1435 

Toe  Nails,  Ingrowing 5827 

Toe  Nails,  Ingrowing,  to  cure. 5828 
Toe  Nails,  Ingrowing,   to   pre- 
vent   5829 

Toilet  Soap,  Receiptsfor553,&c.,601 

Toilet  Soap,  to  perfume 555 

Tolu,  Balsam  of.  Factitious 5102 

Tolti,  Balsam  of,  Test  for 5103 

Tolu,  Syrup  of 4677 

Tolu,  Tincture  of 4566 

Tomato  Catsup 1768 

Tomato  Pickles 1803 

Tombac,  Red 3442 

Tombac,  White 3443 

Tomb  Stones,  Ink  for 2516 

Tonics 5117 

Tonic  after  Drinking  to  excess  5818 

Tonic  Elixir 5118,5407 

Tonic,  Hair 1180 

Tonic  Infusion 5120 

Tonic  Mixture 5123 

Tonic  Mixture,  Aromatic 5124 

Tonic,  Orange 5122 

Tonic  Pills 5125,  5166,  5216 

Tonic  Tincture 5126 

Tonquin  Oil 1246 

Tonquin  Pomade .*.  1246 

Tools,  Edge,  Caution  in  grind- 
ing   6253 

Tools,  Edge,  to  grind 6252 

Tools,  Edge,  to  make,  of  Steel 

and  Iron 3280 

Tools,  Edge,  to  sharpen 6251 

Tools,  Emery  Wheels  for  grind- 


"r. 


Tools,  to  temper 3285,  <fec. 

Tooth  Ache,  Remedies  for  5867,  &c. 

Tooth  Cements 5878,  cfco. 

Tooth  Pastes 1305,  <fcc. 

Tooth  Powders 1288,  &c. 

Tooth,  to  kill  the  Nerve  of  a. .  .5877 

Tooth  Washes 1323,  &c. 

Topaz,  Imitation 2354,  2434 

Tortoiseshell,  Imitation 2016 

Tortoiseshell,  to  join 2018 

Tortoiseshell,  to  polish 2019 

Touch  Paper  for  Fireworks  . . .  2059 
Touch  Stones  for  assaying  Gold  31 90 

Toy  Varnish,  Whito 2916 

Tracing  Paper 1927,  &c. 

Tragacanth,  Mucilage  of 2310 

Tralles'  and  Gendar's  Hydrome- 
ters Compared 58 

Tralles'  Hydrometer 54 

Tralles'  Table  of  Percentages 
of  Alcohol .     59 


Transfer  Paper 1926 

Transfer  Varnish 2919 

Transparent  Cement 2236,  2252 

Transparent  Colored  Varnishes2941 

Transparent  Enamels 2392 

Transparent  Paper 1929 

Transparent  Pomade 1273 

Transparent  Soap 569 

Trap  to  catch  Fleas 1915 

Trap  to  catch  Muskrats 1896 

Trap  to  catch  Rats 1894 

Trapezoids,  Area  of 5991 

Traumatic  Elixir 5419 

Traumaticine 5502 

Trays,  Old,  to  japan 3037 

Tree  Marble  for  Book-covers  .  .3117 
Trees,  Blight  on,  to  remedy  1844,1846 

Trees,  Clay  for  Grafting 1882 

Trees,  Gumming  in,  to  cure...  1873 

Trees,  Large,  to  transplant 1890 

Trees,  Mildew  on,  to  prevent.. 1849 

Trees,  Moss  on,  to  destroy 1860 

Trees,  to  keep  Cattle  from 1855 

Trees,  to  prevent  Ants  from  in- 
juring.   1847 

Trees,  Wall,  Nails  for 1885 

Trees,  Wax  for  Grafting 1880 

Trees,  Wounds  in,  to  heal 1879 

Triangles,  Area  of 5990 

Tricopherous 1250 

Triplex  Pills 5184 

Trituration 31 

Trommer's  Test  for  Sugar  in 

Urine 4396 

Tronchin's  Cough  Syrup 5465 

Troth's  Cholera  Mixture 5669 

Trotter  Oil 1513 

Trotter  Oil,  to  refine 1514 

Trotter  Oil,  to  test 1498 

Trough,  Pneumatic 4031 

Troughs,  Acid,  Cement  for  Coat- 
ing  2232 

Troughs,  Galvanic,  Cement  for  2170 
Trousseau's  Martial  Aerated 

Water 4475 

Troy  Weight 5942 

Troy  Weight  Compared  with 

Apothecaries 5945 

Troy  Weight  Compared  with 

Avoirdupois 5944,  5950 

Troy  Weight  Compared  with 

Metrical 5946 

Tuberose,  Essence  of 954 

Tuberose  Pomade: 1263 

Tuberose  Roots,  to  dry 1889 

Tuberose  Roots,  to  preserve  ..1888 

Tubes,  Glass,  to  bend 3851 

Tubing,  Rubber,  to  make,  Gas- 
tight  4033 

Tulip  Roots,  to  preserve 1888 

Tumors,  to  remove 5769 

Tungstates 4212 

Tungstate  of  Soda 4212 

Tungstic  Acid 4212 

Tungstic  Glue 2281 

Turkey  Corn,  Tincture  of 4492 

Turkey  Red,  French  Process  for 

Dycmg 189 

Turkish  Money 6106 

Turkish  Weights,  &c 6107,  <fcc. 

Turlington's  Balsam 5304 

Turnbull's  Prussian  Blue 2674 

Turner's  Cement 2228 

Turner's  Cerate 5289 

Turners'  Work,  to  polish 3009 

Turning,  Brass  for 3372 

Turning  Metals,  Petroleum  for  3449 
Turnips,  Artificial  Manure  for.  1827 

Turnips,  to  preserve 1888 

Turpentine   4316 

Turpentine,  Balsam  of 5099 

Turpentine,  Bleaching  by 510 

Turpentine  Lotion 5401 

Turpentine,  Oil  or  Spirit  of 4317 

Turpentine  Ointment,  Venice.  4958 

Turpentine  Soap 613 

Turpentine,  to  purify 4319 

Turpentine  Varnish 2909 

Turpentine,  Venice 4318 

Turpentine,  Venice,  to  remove, 

from  Glass 6422 

Turpentine,  Venice,  to  remove, 
from  the  Skin 6421 


Turq  nois,  Imitation 2435 

Tutenag 3452 

Tutty  Powder 4113 

Twaddell's  Areometer  or  Hy- 
drometer  68,  6164 

Tweed  Cloaks,  to  waterproof  .  1554 
Twelvetree's  Washing  Fluid..  479 

Type  Metal 3419 

Type  Metal,  to  electroplate  on. 3711 
Typhoid  Fever,  Remedy  for  ...5747 

Ulcers,  Clay  Dressing  for 5511 

Ulcers,  Foul,  to  deodorize 5508 

Ulcers  from  Cyanide  of  Potas- 
sium, to  cure 5918 

Ulcers  intheLeg,Treatmentof5510 
Ulcers  in  the  Mouth,  Wash  for  5509 

Ulcers,  Remedy  for 5507 

Ulcers,  Treatment  of 5505,  5506 

Unbleached  Muslin,  to  bleach.  509 
Underwood's  Manifold  Copying 

Process 1949 

Universal  Calender 6147 

Universal  Cement 21 75 

Universal  Composts  for  the  Soil  1823 

Universal  Plaster 5277 

Universal  Tincture 4494 

Universal  Wound  Balsam 5096 

Upton's  Gold  Detergent 3598 

Urea 4323 

Urea,  Nitrate  of. 4323,  4324 

Ure's  Diamond  Cement 2154 

Ure'slnk  2472 

Ure's  Table  of  Copper  Alloys.  .3348 
Ure's  Table  of  Percentage  of 

Muriatic  Acid 3886 

Ure's  Table  of  Percentage  of 

Nitric  Acid 3878 

Ure's  Test  for  the  Strength  of 

Acetic  Acid 76,  77 

Urethra,  to  apply  Caustic  to  the  5737 
Urinating,  Difficulty  in,  to  rem- 
edy   5740 

Urine,  Incontinence  of,  to  cure  5743 

Urine,  Test  for  Bile  in 4398 

Ifrine,  Test  for  Sugar  in  .4396,  4397 

Urns,  to  clean 408 

Utensils  for  Brewing 857 

Utensils  for  Brewing,  to  clean 

&c 6333 

Utensils  for  Leaf- gilding 3557 

Utensils  for  Paper-hanging  ..  .2812 
Uva  Urei,  Fluid  Extract  of  . .  .4577 
Uvanterin  Brown  Dye  far  Cot- 
tons    145 

Valerian  and  Carbonate  of  Am- 
monia, Mixture  of 5575 

Valerian,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Valerian,  Fluid  Extract  of 4574 

Valerian,  Tincture  of 4526,  4542 

Valerian  Water, to  distill  1071,  1073 

Valerianates 4305 

Valerianate  of  Ammonia,  Elix- 
ir of 4728,  4732,  &c.< 

Valerianate  of  Ammonia,  Solu- 
tion of 5390 

Valerianate  of  Ammonia,  Syrup 

of 4671 

Valerianate  of  Amyl 4303 

Valerianate  of  Ethyl 4300 

Valerianic  Acid 4305 

Valuable  Liniment 4866 

Valuable  Lotion  for  Wounds  .  .4853 
Vanilla  Beans.to  grind  25,  965,  6279 
Vanilla  and  Almond  Chocolate  6278 

Vanilla  Cream  Syrup 1432 

Vanilla,  Essence  of 965 

Vanilla,  Extract  of 1042 

Vanilla  Flavoring  for  Liquors    668 

Vanilla,  Fluid  Extract  of 4607 

Vanilla  Oil 1247 

Vanilla,  Oil  of 1239 

Vanilla  Pomade 1247, 12G2, 1271 

Vanilla  Powder    for    Sachets, 

&c 1105 

Vanilla  Svrup  for  Soda  Water  1394 

Vanilla,  Tincture  of 1018 

Vanilla  Tooth  Paste 1309 

Vanilla  Water,  to  distill  1071,  1073 
1078. 

Vanille,  Pastilles  a  la 1344 

Varnish,  Amalgam,  for  Casts..  3548 


604r         VAE— VBG 

Varnish,  Amber  Oil 2879,  &c. 

"Varnish,  Amber  Spirit,  .  .2930,  &o. 

Varnish,  Aniline  Black 2943 

Varnish,  Aniline  Colored 2942 

Varnish,  Bookbinders' 2933 

Varnish,  Cabinet 2893 

Varnish,  Canada 2921 

Varnish,  Carriage 2877,  <fcc. 

Varnish,  Chinese,  Imitation. .. 2923 

Varnish,  Collodion 2922 

Varnish,  Colored  Oil 2901 

Varnish,  Colored  Spirit 2942 

Varnish,  Copal  Oil 2876 

Varnish,  Copal  Spirit 2905,  &c. 

Varnish,  Crystal  Spirit 2910 

Varnish,  Dextrine 2927 

Varnish,  Etching 2959,  &c. 

Varnish,  Flexible  Spirit'.. 2948,  &c. 
Varnish,  Flexible  Oil ...  .2890,  2891 
Varnish  for  Boots  and  Shoes.  .2957 

2966. 
Varnish  for  Card  Ornaments.. 2939 

2965. 

Varnish  for  Casks,  Inside  of.. 2970 
Varnish  for  Engravings,  &c.,  .2944 

2964. 
Varnish  for  fastening  Leather 

on  Rollers 2958 

Varnish  for  fixing  Drawings .  2924 

Varnish  for  Grates 2902 

Varnish  for  Gun-barrels 2954 

Varnish  for  Harness 2967 

Varnish  for  Hot-bed  Frames.  .2898 
Varnish  for  Iron  "Work.  .2900,  2956 

Varnish  for  Leather 2967,  &e. 

Varnish  for  Metallic  Paint  . .  .2894 
Varnish  for  Paintings... 2911,  2914 
Varnish  for  Paper-hangings  ..2933 
Varnish  for  Photographs  2932,  3153 

3161. 

Varnish  for  Printers'  Ink 2897 

Varnish  for  "Waterproof  Goods2885 
Varnish,  Green  Transparent .  .2941 

Varnish,  Gutta-percha 2888 

Varnish,  Hair 2892 

Varnish,  India-rubber  Oil  2866,  &c. 

2889,  &c. 
Varnish,  India-rubber  Spirit  .  .2948 

Varnish,  Italian 2896 

Varnish,  Lac  "Water 2940 

Varnish,  Mahogany 2895 

Varnish,  Map 2920 

Varnish,  Mastich 2911,  &c. 

Varnish,  Metallic 2953 

Varnish,  Sealing  "Wax 3044 

Varnish  Stains,  to  remove 339 

Varnish,  Submarine 2955 

Varnish,  to,  Drawings,Paper,&c., 

2965. 

Varnish,  to,  Furniture 2972,  &c. 

Varnish  to  Imitate    Ground 

Glass 6408 

Varnish,  to  remove,  from  Paint- 
ings    405 

Varnish,  Transfer  or  Mordant. 2919 

2928. 

Varnish,  Transparent  Colorless  2935 
Varnish,  Transparent  Colored.  2942 

Varnish,  Turpentine  Spirit 2909 

Varnish,  Wax 2936 

Varnish,  "White  Spirit 2916,  &c. 

Varnished  Paint,  to  clean 436 

Varnished  Surfaces,  to  polish  .2976 

Varnishers'  Amalgam 2953 

Varnishes 2867,  &c. 

Varnishes,  Boiled  Oil  for . . . 2872 

Varnishes,  Oil 2874,  &c. 

Varnishes,  Oil,  Cautions  in  ma- 
king  2873 

Varnishes,  Spirit 2903,  &c. 

Varnishes,  to  clarify  Oil  for 2869 

Varnishes,  to  prepare  Linseed 

Oil  for 2868 

Varnishing 2971 

Varnishing,  Brushes  for 2977 

Varnishing,  to  size  Paper  for..  1951 

Vat,  Blue,  to  make  np  a 119 

Vegetable  Antibilious  Pills 4907 

Vegetable  Caustic 5075,  5825 

Vegetable  Cement 2223 

Vegetable  Fibre,  to  detect,   in 

Mixed  Fabrics 294 

Vegetable  Infusions,  to  filter..  3833 


VEO — VIN 

Vegetable  Juices,  to  filter 3834 

Vegetable  Juices,  to  obtain 45 

Vegetable  Liquids,  'to  decolor- 
ize  1751 

Vegetable  Oils,  to  bleach  .  1504,  &c. 
Vegetable  Oils,  to  purify,  for 

Lamps 1494 

Vegetable  Stains,  to  remove. . .  360 
Vegetable  Substances,  to  silver  3626 

Vegetables,  to  can 1636 

Veils,  Black  Lace,  to  wash 466 

Veils,  "White  Lace,  to  clean  . . .  471 
Vellum,  see  PARCHMENT. 

Velpeau's  Black  Caustic 5330 

Velpeau's  Diarrhoea  Remedy.. 5653 
Velpeau's  Erysipelas  Lotion... 5427 

Velvet,  to  raise  the  Pile  on 463 

Velvet,  to  remove  Grease  from  351 
355. 

Veneers,  Ivory,  to  glue  on 2297 

Veneers,  Old,  to  raise 6220 

Veneers,  to  dye 2837,  &o. 

Venetian  Red 2704 

Venice  Turpentine 4318 

Venice  Turpentine  Ointment.. 4958 
Venice  Turpentine,  to  remove, 

from  Gloss 6422 

Venice  Turpentine,  to  remove, 

from  the  Skin 6421 

Venus,  Pomade  de 1164 

Veratrine  or  Veratria 4007 

Veratrine,  Acid  Solution  of  ...5313 

Veratrine  Lotion 5406 

Veratrum  Viride,  Fluid    Ex- 
tract of 4575 

Veratrum  Viride,  Tincture  of  .4496 
4515. 

Verdigris 3240 

Verdigris,  Antidote  for 5904 

Vermifuges  5245,5426,5428,5432,5643 

Vermifuge  Pills 5648 

Vermilion,  to  make 2681 

Vermilion,  to  preserve 2682 

Vermin  in  Children's  Heads,  to 

destroy 1919 

Vermin  Ointment 5395 

Vermin  on  the  Body, to  destroy  1920 
Vermin,  Phosphorous  Paste  for  1899 
Vermin,  to  exterminate. .  .1892,  &c. 
Vessels  containing  Kerosene, 

to  clean 1537 

Vessels,    AVooden,    to    remove 

the  Taste  of 6201 

Vessels,  Iron,  to  'tin 3638 

Vesuvine  Aniline  Dye 2594 

Vichy  Salts 4458 

Vichy  "Water,  Aerated 4455 

Vinaigre  Aromalique 1087 

Vinaigro  de  Quatre  Voleurs..  .5193 
Vinegar,  Acetified  Shavings  for 

Making 1736 

Vinegar,  Alcohol,  to  improve..  1743 

Vinegar,  Aromatic 1083,  &,c. 

Vinegar,  Artus'  Process  for  . .  .1742 
Vinegar,  Black,   for  Bookbind- 
ers  3118 

Vinegar  by  the  Quick  Method  1733 

Vinegar,  Distilled 1746 

Vinegar  for  Sauces 1771,  <tc. 

Vinegar  from  Alcohol 1741 

Vinegar  from  Cider 1740 

Vinegar  from  Sugar 1747 

Vinegar,  General  Directions  for 

making 1732,  &c. 

Vinegar  Generator,  to  make  a  1734 

Vinegar,  Hints  for  making 1738 

Vinegar,  Marseilles 5198 

Vinegar  of  Cantharides 1178 

Vinegar  Poultice 5037 

Vinegar,  Raspberry 1779,  &e. 

Vinegar,  Spiced,  for  Pickles...  1791 

Vinegar,  Tests  for 1748 

Vinegar,  Thieves' 5198 

Vinegar,  to  decolorize 3751 

Vinegar,  to  find  the  Strength  of 

1750 

Vinegar,  to  keep  up  a  supply  of  1744 
Vinegar,  to  make  in  Three  "Weeks, 
1745. 

Vinegar,  to  make  quickly 1739 

Vinegar.  "Weak,  to  strengthen.  1749 
Vines,  Bleeding  in,  to  remedy.  1878 
Vinous  Fermentation 16 


TIO — "WAS 

Violet  Aniline  Dyes 2607 

Violet  Cement 2191 

Violet  Coloring  for  Brass 3385 

Violet  Coloring  for  Bronze 3784 

Violet  Dye  for  Cottons 190 

Violet  Dye  for  Ivory 1992 

Violet  Dye  for  Silks 253,  262 

Violet  Dye  for  "Woolens 211,  316 

Violet  Enamel 2393 

Violet  Fire 2094 

Violet  Glazing 2408 

Violet  Ink 2497 

Violet  Month  "Wash 1325 

Violet  Pomade 1263 

Violet  Powder 1100 

Violet  Silk,    Acid-stained,  to 

restore  the  color  of 6334 

Violet  Tooth-paste 1312 

Violet  Tooth-powder 1300 

Violets,  Essence  of 949 

Violets,  Honey  of 4696 

Virginal,  Lait 1138 

Viscous  Fermentation 16 

Vitriol,  Blue 120,  4096 

Vitriol,  Elixir  of. 4731,  4740 

Vitriol,  Green 4146 

Vitriol,  Oil  of 3855 

Vitriol,  Roman 120 

Vitriol,  White 4114 

Vogel's  Method  of  purifying 

Honey 1568 

Voice,  Loss  of,  Cure  for 5617 

Volatile  Liniment 4881 

Volatile  Oils,  see  ESSENTIAL  OILS. 

Voltaic  Pile,  to  construct  a 6357 

Vomiting  during  Pregnancy, 

Cure  for 5721 

Vomiting,  Remedy  for 5781 

Von  Vetter's  Process  for    Pre- 
serving Specimens 1675 

Vulcanite,  Substitute  for 2281 

Wafers,  Gelatine , .  .4369 

Wagner's  Glue  of  Caseine 2295 

Wa'hoo  Beer 838 

Walks,  Asphalt  for.. 2207,  &c.,  6354 
Walks,  Gravel,  See  GRAVEL 

Walks. 

Walker's  Jesuits'  Drops 5338 

Wall  Paper,  to  apply,  See  PAPEK 

HANGING. 

Wall  Paper,  to  clean 409 

Wall  Paper,  to  prepare,  for 

Hanging 2813 

Wall  Paper,  to  remove  Grease 

from 410 

Wall  Trees,  Kails  for 1885 

Wallace's  Pills 5279 

Walls,  Cement  for  Inside 2171 

Walls,  Cement  for  Outside 2173 

Walls,  Fine  Whitewash  for 2795 

Walls,  Kalsomine  for 2794 

Walls,  Smoked,  to  whitewash. 2806 
Walls,  to  paper,  see  PAPEK  HANG- 

ixo. 

Walls,  to  render,  Watertight..  6377 
Walls,  Whitewashed,  to  paper. 2808 
Walnut,  Black,  to  give  a  dead 

Surface  to 3008 

Walnut  Catsup 1770 

Walnut  Furniture,  to  varnish.  .2972 

2974. 

Walnut  Hair-dye 1199 

Walnut  Pickle 1798 

Walnut  "VVood,  to  prepare,  for 

Varnishing 2972 

Walter's  Indian  Vegetable  Pills  5186 
Ward's  Essence  for  Headache  5229 

Ward's  Tooth  Paste 1306 

Warts,  Powder  for 5825 

Warts,  to  remove 5824 

Wash  for  Dry  Stubborn  Hair  .1186 
Wash  for  Failing  Hair  and 

Baldness 1 177,  &c. 

Wash  for  Freckles.  1122,  1158, 1161 

Wash  for  Shaving 1161 

Wash  for  the  Mouth  nnd  Teeth  1323 
Wash  to  cleanse  the  Hair  1187,&c. 
Wash  to  darken  the  Hair  1183,  <tc. 

1215,  <tc. 

Wash,  to,  in  Salt  Water 484 

Wash  to  protect  Trees  from 

Cattle 1855 


WAS— WAT 


WAX — WEI 


WEI— WHI 


605 


"Washing 465,  <fec.  • 

Washing,  Chemical 32,3841 

Washing  Fluid 479,  481,  6306 

Washing  Made  Easy 482 

Washing    Mixture 480 

Washing   Soap 522,598 

Washing,  White  Lye  for 483 

Wasp  Stings,  to  cure 5927  i 

Watch  Hands,  to  make,  Red.. 3 196 
Watch  Movements,  to  frost . .  .3381 

Watchmakers'  Oil 1549,  &c. 

Water,  Barley 4767 

Water  Bath 5 

Water,  Bitter  Almond 4755 

Water  Brash,  to  cure 5691 

Water,  Camphor. .  .4611,  4754,  4766 

Water  Cement 2165 

Water,  Cinnamon 4756 

Water,  Cologne 976.  &c. 

Water,  Cologne,  Ammoniated.1096 
Water,  Cologne.  Concentrated    950  ] 
Water  Colors,  Improved  Vehi- 
cle for  2725 

Water,  Distilled 4768 

Water,  Fennel 4757 

Water,  Florida 1011,  &c. 

Water  Gilding 3584 

Water  Glass 2816.  &c. 

Water  Glass  Solvent  for  Coral- 
line  2587 

Water.  Honey 1007 

Water,  Honey,  Imitation 1006 

Water,  how  to  see  Under 6192 

Water,  Hungary 996 

Water,  Impure,  to  purify  1701,1710, 
1712,  C359. 

Water  Lac  Varnish 2940 

Water,  Lavender 989,  &c. 

Water,  Lavender.  Ammoniacall098 

Water   Lily  Roots,  to  dry If 89 

Water,  Lime 4760 

Water,  Lime,  for  Dyeing 103 

Water,  Lobelia 4761 

Water,  Millefleur 1005 

Water  of  Life 5448 

Water,  Orange  Flower 1009 

Water,  Peppermint 4758 

Water,  Rose 1008,  1079 

Water   Size  for  Gilding 3572 

Water,  Spearmint 4759 

Water,  Statistics  of 6120 

Water,  Tar 4764 

Water  Pipes,  to  manage,   in 

Winter 6223 

Water  Pipes,  to  protect  the  In- 
side Lining  of 6224 

Water,  to  prevent,  from  putrefy- 
ing   1650 

Water,  to  test  the  Hardness  of  4388 

Water,  Vanilla 1078 

Waterproof  Blacking  for  Har- 
ness   3082,  &c. 

Waterproof  Canvas 1561 

Waterproof  Cements 2174,  2179 

Waterproof  Cloth 1553 

Waterproof  Covering    for 

Wounds 5502 

Waterproof  Felting 1556 

Waterproof  French  Polish 3004 

Waterproof  Goods,  Oil  Varnish 

for  2885 

Waterproof  Paper 1941,  1944 

Waterproof  Starch 6310 

Waterproof,  to  render  Boots  .  .3069 
Waterproofing,  Directions  for.  1552 
&c.,  6313. 

Waters,  Medicated 4753 

Waters,  Perfumed  by  Distilla- 
tion   1070,  &.O. 

Waters,  Perfumed,    Directions 

for  Distilling 1073 

Waters,  Perfumed,  from  Essen- 
ces   1082 

Waters,  Perfumed,  from  Essen- 
tial Oils  1080,1081 

Waters,  Perfumed,  Practical 

Suggestions  for  1076 

Waters,  Perfumed,  Proportions 

of  Arom  atics  for 107] 

Waters,  Perfumed,  Soubeiran's 

Apparatus  for 1077 

Waters,  Perfumed,  to  prevent, 
from  Souring 1075 


Waters,  Perfumed,  to  remove 

the  Burnt  Smell  from 1074 

Wax,  Bees' 1577 

Wax  for  Grafting 1880 

Wax  for  Polishing  Floors 1591 

Wax  for  Sealing  Bottles 929 

Wax,  Imitation 1588,  &c. 

Wax,  Modeling 1590 

Wax,  Sealing,  see  SEALING  WAX. 

Wax,  to  bleach 1578,  &c. 

Wax,  to  color 1586 

Wax,  to.  Furniture 2992 

Wax,  to  detect  Japanese  Wax 

in 1583 

Wax,  to  detect  Spermaceti  in.  1582 

Wax,  to  refine 1584,  1585 

Was  1o  test  the  purity  of  1582,  <kc. 
Wax  Marble  for  Book-covers  .3109 

Wax,  Milk  of 2936 

Wax  Moulds,  to  coat,  for  Elec- 

trotyping 3689 

Wax  Moulds,  to  make  ...3674,  &c. 
Wax  Moulds,  to  make,  of  the 

Face 3682 

Wax  Paper 1938 

Wax  Paper  for  Photography.  .3179 
Wax  Putty  for  Leaky  Casks..  696 
Wax  Stains  on  Cloth,  to  remove  342 
Wax  Stains  on  Silk,  to  remove  341 
Wax  Varnish  for  Furniture... 2937 
Wax  Varnish  for  Paintings... 2936 
Weather  Boards,  old,  Paint  for  2771 

Weavers'  Knot,  to  tie  a 6261 

Wedel's  Elixir 4555 

Wedgwood  Mortars,  to  cleanse  6346 
Weeds  on  Gravel  Walks,  to  de- 
stroy   1870,  1875 

Weeds  on  Gravel  Walks,  to 

prevent 1869 

Weight  and  Hardness  of  Gems  6136 

Weight,  Apothecaries 5951 

Weight,  Apothecaries,  Com- 
pared with  Apothecaries  Mea- 
sure   5954 

Weight,  Apothecaries,  Com- 
pared with  Avoirdupois 5952 

Weight,  Apothecaries,  Com- 
pared with  Grams 5955 

Weight,  Apothecaries,  Com- 
pared with  Troy 5953 

Weight,  Assayers'  Gold 5948 

Weight,  Assayers'  Silver 5949 

Weight,  Avoirdupois 5935 

Weight,  Avoirdupois,    Com- 
pared with  Apothecaries  Mea- 
sure   5937 

Weight,  Avoirdupois,    Com- 
pared with    Apothecaries' 

Weight 5938 

Weight,  Avoirdupois,    Com- 
pared with  Grams 5941 

Weight,  Avoirdupois,  Com- 
pared with  Troy 5936 

Weight,  Diamond 5943 

Weight,  French  Binary 6046 

Weight,  French  Binary,   Com- 
pared witli  Apothecaries 6048 

Weight,  French  Binary,   Com- 
pared with  Avoirdupois 6047 

Weight,  French  Binary,  Com. 

pared  with  Grams 6050 

Weight,  French  Binary,  Com- 
pared with  Troy 6049 

Weight,  Loss  of,  in  Substances 

by  Drying 6149 

Weight,  Metrical 6027,  6052 

Weight,  Metrical,  Compared 

with  Apothecaries 6030 

Weight,  Metrical,    Compared 

with  Avoirdupois 6028 

Weight,  Metrical,    Compared 

with  Troy 6029 

Weight  of  a  Barrel  of  Various, 

Articles 5973 

Weight  of  a  Bushel  of  Various 

Articles 5974 

Weight  of  Copper,   Sheet  and 

Plate 6139 

Weight  of  Earth,  Rocks,  &C...6134 
Weight  of  Fluids  and  Gases  ..6138 
Weight  of  Hemp  or  Wire  Rope  61 37 
Weight  of  Iron  Bars  and  Rails  6145 
Weight  of  Iron,  Boiler 6142 


Weight  of  Iron  Shafting 6144 

Weight  of  Iron  Sheet C141 

Weight  of  Iron  Plates,  Cast. .  .6140 

Weight  of  Lead 6139 

Weight  of  Live  Cattle 6127 

Weight  of  Metals 6143 

Weight  of  Nails 6146 

Weight  of  Steel  Bars 6145 

Weight  of  Timber 6138 

Weight  of  Various  Minerals, &c., 

6135,  til38. 
Weight,  Percentage  of  Pork  in 

Live 6129 

Weight,  Troy 5942 

Weight,  Troy,  Compared  with 

Apothecaries 5945 

Weight,  Troy,  Compared  with 

Avoirdupois 5944 

Weight,  Troy,  Compared  with 

Grams 5946,  5947 

Weight,  Troy,  to  convert,  into 

Avoirdupois 5950 

Weights  and  Measures. . .  5934,  &c. 
Weights  and  Measures,  Aus- 
trian   .' 6075,  &c. 

Weights  and  Measures, Chinese  6110 
Weights  and  Measures.Deci- 

mal,  see  METRICAL. 
Weights  and  Measures,  Dutch  6090 
Weights  and  Measures,  Eng- 
lish  6031,  &c. 

Weights  and  Measures,  Foreign, 

Various 6054,  &c. 

Weights  and  Measures,  Foreign, 

Compared  with  American. .  .6055 
Weights  and  Measures,French6045 
Weights  and  Measures,  Metri- 
cal.   6014,  &.C. 

Weights  and  Measures,  Nether- 
lands   6084,  <fcc, 

Weights  and  Measures,  Prus- 
sian   6080,  &c. 

Weights  and  Measures.Roman  6061 
Weights  and  Measures,  Rus . 

sian 6071,  &c. 

Weights  and  Measures,  Scrip- 
tural   6065,  &c. 

Weights  and  Measures,  Span- 
ish   6091 

Weights  and  Measures,  Swed- 
ish   6096 

Weights  and  Measures,  Swiss. 6101 
Weights  and  Measures,  Turk- 
ish   6106 

Weil's  Copper  Coating  for  Iron  3637 

Weld  Yellow  Dye  for  Silks 265 

Welding 3250,  3472.  <tc. 

Welding,  Fluxes  for 3531 

Welding  Powders 3523,  &.c. 

Wells,  to  examine 6410 

Wenderoth's  Photographic  Var- 
nish    3161 

Wernicke's  Method  of  Gilding 

on  Glass 3596 

Whale  Oil,  Putrid,  to  deodorize  1488 
Whale  Oil  Soap  for  destroying 

Insects 580 

Wheat,  Artificial  Manure  for..  1827 

Wheeler's  Nursing  Syrup 5308 

Wheeler's  Worm  Confection. .  .5309 
Whetstones,  See  HONES. 

Whiskey i435 

Whiskey,  Bourbon,  Imitation. . .  683 
Whiskej',  Cheap,  to  improve..  .6293 

Whiskey,  Distillation  of 931 

Whiskey,  Flavorings  for. .  664,  &c., 
6294. 

Whiskey,  Irish,  Imitation 690 

Whiskey  Punch 920 

Whiskey,  Rye,  Imitation..  688,  &c. 

Whiskey,  Scotch,  Imitation 691 

Whiskey,  to  deodorize 1446 

Whiskey,  to  free,   from  Fusel 

OU 1446 

Whiskey,  to  give  a  Smoky 

Flavor  to 692 

Whiskey,  to  improve,  by  Elec- 
tricity  726,  6295 

Whiskey,  Mash  for,  to  prepare  936 
Whiskey,  Yeast  for,  to  prepare,  932, 

934. 

White  Arsenic,  see  AKSKNIOUS 
ACID. 


606 


WHI — WIN 


•White  Cabbage  Pickle 1799 

White  Cement 2192 

White  Copper 3414,  3415 

White  Currant  Wine 728 

White  Dye,  French,  for  Silks..  263 

White  Enamel 2396 

White  Enamel  for  Iron- Ware.  2403 

White  Fire 2096,  2104,  2107 

White  Foil  for  Imitation  Gems, 

2448. 
White,  French,  for  the  Skin...  1108 

White  Frontignac  Wine 6413 

White  Glazing 2405 

White  Jean  Boots,  to  clean...  453 

White  Kid  Boots,  to  clean 454 

White  Kid  Gloves,   see  KID 

GLOVES. 
White  Lace  Veils,  to  clean...    471 

White  Lead 2693 

White  Lead,  Antidotes  for 5908 

White  Lead  Plaster 5044 

White  Lead,  Tests  for. . .  2694,  2(>95 

White  Lights 2113 

White  Lights  for  Indoors 2120 

White  Lip  Salve 1172 

White  Liquors,  to  blanch 705 

White  Lye  for  Washing 483 

White  Metal 3416,  3426 

White,  Pearl,  for  the  Skin 1109 

White  Pigments 2693,  &c 

White  Precipitate 4140 

White  Satin  Shoes,  to  clean  . .  455 
White  Silk  Blond  and  Lace,  to 

wash 472 

White  Silk  Stockings,  to  wash.  467 

White  Soap 591 

White  Spoon  Metal 34 16 

White  Swelling 5775 

White  Swelling,  Treatment  of  5776 

White  Toilet  Soap,  Soft 606 

White  Varnish 2916 

White  Vitriol 41 14 

White  Vitriol,  Antidote  for...  5907 

White  Windsor  Soap 558 

White  Wine,  to  fine 744 

White,  Zinc 2696 

Whiten,  to,  Tallow 639 

Whiten,  to,  Woolens 508 

White's  Gout  Pills 5182 

Whitewash 2793,  &c. 

Whitewash,  Fine,  for  Walls  . .  .2800 

Whitewash,  Fireproof 2801 

Whitewash  for  Fences 2803 

Whitewash  for  Out-door  Use. 2796, 
2802. 

Whitewash,  to  color 2798,  2807 

Whitewash,  to  keep 2805 

Whitewash,  to  mix 2804 

Whitewash,  to  prevent,  from  Rub- 
bing off 2807 

Whitewash,  to,  Smoky  Walls.. 2806 
Whitewash,  Treasury  Depart- 
ment  2797 

Whitewash,  Zinc 2799 

Whitewashed  Walls,  to  paint.  .2764 
Whitewashed  Walls,  to  paper  .2808 
Whitewashed  Walls,  to  prepare, 

for  Painting 27K 

Whitlow,  see  FELON. 

Whitwith's  Red  Drops 5376 

Whooping  Cough  Liniment 5257 

Whooping  Cough,  Remedies  for 

5632,  &c. 

Whooping  Cough,  Treatment  of, 
5632. 

Whortleberry  Wine 72f 

Wicks,  Candle,  to  improve 623 

Wicks,  Candle,  to  make 632 

Wiegand's  Syrup  of  Phosphate 

of  Lime 4637 

Wiegand's  Tetter  Ointment... 524 

Wiegand's  Tetter  Salve 5242 

Wild-Cherry  Bitters 82 

Wild-Cherry,  Ferrated  Elixir  of  47U 
Wild-Cherry,  Ferrated  Wine  of47U 
Wild-Cherry,  Fluid  Extract  of  458£ 
Wild-Cherry  Syrup  for  Soda  Wa- 
ter  ]3 

Wild-Cherry,  Wine  of  ...  4714 
Wilk's  Refined  Linseed  Oil  . .  .287 

Wilson's  Hair  Wash 1185 

Wind,  Force  of  the 612f 

Window  Glass 234 


WIN— WOO 

Window  Glass,  to  restore  the 

Color  of 6211 

Window  Sas-hes,  Loose,  to  fas- 
ten   6395 

Windows,  Prismatic  Crystals 

for 2365 

Windows,  to  clean 6330,  6331 

Windows,  to  keep,  Open 6208 

Windsor  Soap 558,  559 

Vine,  Acidity  in,  to  remedy  . .  753 

\Vine,  Acidity  in,  to  test 760 

Wine,  Antiferments  for 764 

iVine,  Aromatic 5348 

Wine,  Artificially  Colored,  to 

detect 4404,  4406 

Wine,  Champagne 713,  &c. 

Wine  Color  Dye  for  Silks 262 

Wine  Color  Dye  for  Woolens  .  210 

Wine,  Decayed,  to  restore 752 

Wine,  Decomposition  in,   to 

test 755 

Wino,  Domestic.. 713,  &.C.,  727,  &c. 

Wine,  Eschalot 1783 

Wine,  Febrifuge 5141 

Wine.  Filter  for 714 

Wine,  Fretting  in 757 

Wine  from  Fresh  Fruits.. 728,  &c. 

Wine  from  Dried  Fruits 729 

Wine,  Frontignac,  Imitation.. 6418 
6419. 

Wine,  Home-made 727,  &c. 

Wine,  Isinglass  for  Fining 716 

Wine,  Mulled,  with  Eggs 927 

Wine,  Mustiness  in,  to  remove  758 

Wine,  Nutritive 4723 

Wine  of  Beef  and  Iron 4722 

Wine  of  Calisaya 4711 

Wine  of  Cinchonia 4710 

Wine  of  Colchicum 5389 

Wine  of  Iron 4705 

Wine  of  Iron,  Aromatic 4708 

Wine  of  Iron,  Bitter 4704,  4707 

Wine  of  Pepsine 4721,  4726 

Wine  of  Quinine 5199 

Wine  of  Rennet 4713 

Wine  of  Wild-cherry  Bark 4714 

Wine  of  Wild-cherry,  Ferrated  47 15 

Wine,  Pricked,  to  restore 752 

Wine  Punch 711 

Wine,  Sour,  to  remedy 751,  754 

Wine  Stains,  to  remove... 360,  369 

Wine,  Sweating  in 757 

Wine,  to  decolor 748 

Wine,  to  detect  Lead  in  .4402,  4403 
Wine,  to  detect  Logwood  in. .  .4405 

Wine,  to  fine 742,  &c. 

Wine,  to  improve,  by  Electric- 
ity   726,  6295 

Wine,  to  preserve 759,  761 

Wine,  to  remedy  Ropiness  in. .  74t 

Wine,  to  ripen 75C 

Wine,  Use  of  Glycerine  in 725 

Wintergreen  Syrup 1407 

Wire,  Brass  for 3348,  3374 

Wire  Rope,  Weight  of 613r 

Wonderful  Ointment 4895 

Wood,  Cement  for  Coating 2195 

Wood,  Cement  to  fill  Cracks  in  2244 
Wood,  Dyes  for,  to  brighten 

and  set 2828 

Wood,  Enameled,to  polish  3015,  &c 
Wood,  Gold-size  for  Gilding  on  3562 
Wood,  Implements  for  Gilding 

on 355' 

Wood,  to  bronze 3792,  &c.,  3825 

Wood,  to  cement  Emery  to. .  .6269 

Wood,  to  cement  Metal  to 223 

Wood,  to  coat  with  a  Substance 

as  hard  as  Stone 168C 

Wood,  to  detect,  in  Paper 1947 

Wood,  to  dye 2824,  &c 

Wood,  to  electrotype  on 369.r 

Wood,  to  enamel 3010,  &c 

Wood,  to  extract  Essential  Oil 

from 46 

Wood,  to  gild  on 3557,  <fec 

Wood,  to  harden 1682 

Wood,  to  kyanize 168 

Wood,  to  make,  Incombustible  282: 

Wood,  to  petrify 1681 

Wood,  to  photograph  on 3165 

Wood,  to  prepare,  for  Enamel- 
ing  3011,  3015 


WOO — TEA 

Wood,  to  prepare,  for  Gilding. 3559 
iVood,  to  prepare,  for  Japan- 
ning  3020 

Vood,  to  prepare.for  Polishing  2983 
Vood,  to  preserve..  1677,  1680,  1684 
Wood,  to  preserve,  from  Dry- 
rot  1679 

Wood,  to  preserve,  under  Wa- 
ter  1684 

Wood,  to  prevent,  from  Split- 
ting  1678 

Wood,  to  silver 3612,  3627.  3628 

Wood,  to  stain 2842,  &c. 

Wood,  to  transfer  Engravings 

onto 6336 

Wooden  Faucets,  to  keep,  from 

Cracking 6305 

Wooden  Vessels,  to  remove  the 

Taste  from 6201 

Wood's  Spruce  Beer 886 

iVood's  Tincture  of  Kino 4556 

Woods  used  for  Dyeing 94 

Wool,  New  Wasli  for 1 719 

Wool,  to  bleach 1716,  1717 

Wool,  to  dissolve,  out  of  Mixed 

Fabrics 6413 

Wool,  to  distinguish,  in  Mixed 

Fabrics 298,  &c. 

Woolen  Goods,  to  restore  the 

Gloss  Finish  on 469 

Woolen  Hose,  to  whiten 508 

Woolen  Rags,  to  bleach 1726 

Woolens,  Flannels  and  Shawls, 

to  wash 493,  &c. 

Woolens,  Aniline  Dyes  for  2573,  &c. 
Woolens,  Chrome  Dyes  for. .  . .  221 

Woolens,  Colored,  to  clean 451 

Woolens,  Family  Receipts  for 

Dyeing 303,  &e. 

Woolens,  General  Receipts  for 

Dyeing 191,  &°- 

Woolens,  to  prepare,  for  Dye- 
ing   :  —  191 

Woolens,  to  preserve,    from 

Moth 654 

Woolens,  to  remove  Spots  from  345 

Woolens,  to  wash 493 

Worcestershire  Sauce 1759 

Worm  Confection 5309 

Worm,  Tape,  see  TAPE  WORM. 
Worms  in  Gravel  Walks,  to  de- 
stroy   1875 

Worms  in  Lawns,  to  destroy. .  1876 
Worms,  Remedies  for,  see  VEK- 

MIFUGES. 

Worms,  Symptoms  of  the 5642 

Worms,  to  expel,  from  Flower- 
pots   1853 

Wormseed,  Essential  Oil  of 1465 

Wormwood  Water,  to  distill.  .1071 
1073. 

Worsted  Reps,  to  clean 451 

Worsteds,  to  dye 303,  &c. 

Wounds,  Dressing  for < .  5392 

Wounds,  Festering,  Cure  for.. 5748 

Wounds,  Lotion  for 4853 

Wounds  on  Rosebushes, to  heal  1877 

Wounds  on  Trees,  to  heal 1879 

Wrinkles  in  the  Face,  Wash  for  1163 
Wrist,  Sprained,  Treatment  of  5495 
Writing  Effaced  by  Chlorine,  to 

restore 2504 

Writing  Fluids 2477,  &c. 

Writing,  New,  to  make,  appear " 

old 2505 

Writing  on  Glass 2371,  2375 

Writing,  Very  Old,  to  copy 1959 

Wrought  Iron,  see  IRON. 
Wyndham's  Pills 5323 

Xanthine 4013 

Xanthoxylum,  Fluid  Extractof  4579 
Xylol  or  Xylene 6409 

Tarn,  Cotton,  to  bleach 123 

Tarn,  Cotton,  to  prepare,  for 

Dyeing... 122 

Tarn,  Fustic-green  Dye  for 161 

Tarn,  Indigo-blue  Dye  for 130 

Tarrow,  Fluid  Extract  of 4588 

Teast 1807,  &c. 

Teast,  Bitterness  in,  to  remedy.  1816 
Teast,  Brewers' 1808 


YEA — TEL 


YEL — ZIN 


ZIN — ZIN 


607 


Toast  for  Hot  Climates 1809 

Yeast,  Patent 1814 

Yeast  Poultice 5027 

Yeast,  to  prepare,  for  Bum  and 

"Whiskey 932 

Yeast,  to  prepare,  with  Ferment  1813 
Yeast,  to  prepare,  without  Fer- 
ment  1810,  &c. 

Yeast,  to  preserve 1815 

Yellow  Aniline  Dye 2579 

Yellow  Cement 2189 

Yellow  Color,  to  remove,  from 

the  Teeth 1296 

Yellow  Dipping  Metal 3433 

Yellow  DOCK,  Syrup  of,  Com- 
pound   4683 

Yellow  Dye  for  Cottons 186 

Yellow  Dye  for  Feathers 329 

Yellow  Dye  for  Ivory 1990 

Yellow  Dye  for  Leather 6350 

Yellow  Dye  for  Silks.  -265,  &.C.,  323 

Yellow  Dye  for  Veneers 2839 

Yellow  Dye  for  "Wood 2826 

Yellow  Dye  for  "Woolens. .  .202,  225 

Yellow  Enamels 2394 

Yellow  Fire 2099,2110 

Yellow  Foil  for  Imitation  Gems  2452 

Yellow  Glazing 2406 

Yellow  Hair-dyes 1208,  &c. 


Yellow  Hair-oil 1234 

Yellow  Jasmine,  Tincture  of .  .4493 

Yellow  Lights 2114 

Yellow  Lights  for  Indoors 2121 

Yellow  Lotion,  Mercurial 4848 

Yellow  Marble  for  Book-covers  3110 

Yellow  Metal,  to  platinize 3658 

Yellow.Naples 2709 

Yellow  Pigments... 2700,  2705,  2708 

Yellow  Sealing  Wax 2320 

Yellow  Stain  for  Glass 2361 

Yellow  Stain  for  Marble 2044 

Yellow  Stain  for  Wood 2863 

Yellow  Soap,  to  improve 6308 

Yellow  Soap,  to  make 522 

Yellow  Spirits 109,  141 

Yellow,  to  color  Fat 1259 

Yellow  Wash,  Mercurial 4848 

Youatt's  Cure  for  Hydrophobia 5922 

Zeiodite 2213 

Zeiter's  Antiscorbutic  Denti- 
frice   1306 

Zinc 3310 

Zinc,  Alloys  of 3421,  3424 

Zinc  Amalgam  for  Electrical 

Machines 3539 

Zinc,  Ammonio-Chloride  of  ...  4110 
Zino,  Carbonate  of 4112 


Zinc,  Chloride  of 4109,  4111 

Zinc,  Cyanide  of. 3753,  4115 

Zinc,  Flowers  of 4116- 

Zinc,  Flux  for  Soldering  .3481,  3531 

Zinc  Green 2691 

Zinc  Ointment 4981 

Zinc,  Oxide  of 4117 

Zinc  Paint,  Boiled  Oil  for 2734 

Zinc,  Sulphate  of 4114 

Zinc,  Tests  for,  in  Solutions... 4118 
Zinc,  to  amalgamate,  for  the 

Battery 3555,  3662 

Zinc,  to  bronze 3797,  3811 

Zinc,  to  coat  Copper  or  Brass 

with 3651,  3653 

Zinc,  to  coat  Iron  with 3649 

Zinc,  to  coat,  with  Copper  or 

Brass 3655 

Zinc,  to  coat,  with  Iron 3654 

Zinc,  to  color 3313 

Zinc,  to  granulate 3312 

Zinc,  to  paint 2759 

Zinc,  to  purify 3311 

Zinc,  to  scour 3271 

Zinc,  to  separate,  from  Copper.  3243 

Zino  Wash 5834 

Zinc  White 2696 

Zino  White,  Dryer  for 2740 

Zino  Whitewash 2799 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
BERKELEY 

Return  to  desk  from  which  borrowed. 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


MAR    29  1948 

R   28  1948 

?ODec'49SN 

10to'52ES 


tfCT3iS60 


RECEIVED 

_0AN    DEFT. 


8    1963 


DECEIVED 

9    '67 -1PM 

DEPT. 


LD  21-100m,-9,'47(A5702sl6)476 


M141161 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


